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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 09:41:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
In-Reply-To: <009701bef444$184e7120$adc3fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


I haven't seen the actual pattern...but from the looks of the pattern
cover, yes, that should work.

Drea

On Tue, 31 Aug 1999, Michelle wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> Then, it should work to use the new Elizabeth, Simplicity, without the slope
> in the breast area to make the corset in the Janet arnold book, right?  (The
> one with the boning absent where the breasts would be)
>   Michelle
> -----Original Message-----
> From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Monday, August 30, 1999 9:16 AM
> Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
> 
> 
> >
> >-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> >
> >
> >>   Similar to the Tudor bodice right?
> >
> >yup.
> >
> >
> >>    So what you are saying is that it is pretty much the equivalent of
> >> wearing two bodices, instead of a corset and bodice?  You wouldn't wear a
> >> corset, a petticoat bodice and a bodice on the outside, right?  2 or 2,
> not
> >> 3
> >
> >
> >I don't know how they wore them back then--I myself wear it with a kirtle
> >and gown usually, without a corset.  I have worn it over a corset when I'm
> >wearing fancy Elizabethan court dress.
> >
> >
> >Drea
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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> 

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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 10:07:52 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 8/31/99 5:36:26 PM Central Daylight Time, 
sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com writes:

> Ebay is bad... I have discovered this *grin*

Advice from a serious ebay addict: get out while you can! :-) Seriously, I 
have found some wonderful deals on costume pieces and patterns within the 
last six months...from boots to a Pendragon bodice that I desperately wanted 
to corset kits. It's definitely a place to keep an eye on for additions to 
your garb wardrobe.

(BTW--If anyone on this list is responsible for selling me any of the items 
I've purchased, THANK YOU!)

DaniG
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 09:02:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 07:13:06 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: WAS:  Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern, NOW: EBay
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

     So where in the EBay site does one discover 'period' [whatever period]
garments, please?   I was looking through the fabric pages... .  Thank you.
 Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 09:10:01 1999
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Subject: Re: WAS:  Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern, NOW: EBay
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 9/1/99 9:15:32 AM Central Daylight Time, 
cjcannon@greymists.com writes:

> So where in the EBay site does one discover 'period' [whatever period]
>  garments, please?   I was looking through the fabric pages... .  Thank you.
>   Carol

Carol, it's mostly a luck thing. I search on things like "renaissance", 
"costume", "garb", "corset", etc. Some of the "custom made costumes" are not 
quite up to my standards (no offense meant to anyone on this list who sells 
on ebay) but there are a couple of people clearing out their costume closets 
for whatever reason.

I think there is also a section on patterns and historical clothing.

Good luck, but it's addictive. :-)
Dani G
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 09:26:37 1999
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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <karalee.larsen@usa.net>
Subject: H-COST: Got beets, now what?
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <karalee.larsen@usa.net>

A friend has had an over abundance of beets grow in her garden this year
and she has a question. She's heard that beets were used for dying. If that
is true, where would we look for information on mordants, and all the other
stuff needed to dye and fix a peice of cloth?


Karalee Larsen Pugmire
karalee.larsen@usa.net




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 10:29:32 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: WAS:  Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern, NOW: EBay
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> > So where in the EBay site does one discover 'period' [whatever period]
> >  garments, please?   I was looking through the fabric pages... .  Thank
you.
> >   Carol

I've had some luck going to the antiques section of the main menu, then to
the fabrics sub-section. There are a lot of linens and such, but every now
and then, a costume treasure.

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905




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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re. Christening gown
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I second Kat's comments about the Edward V! Prayer Book - nothing to do with the king's own baptism!
It's my understanding that, once the practice of swaddling had died out, very young babies (of the wealthier classes, at least) were dressed in very long clothes for everyday wear, so the Christening gown would simply be a "best" version of this. 

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 11:52:37 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Necklines below bust
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:31 PM 08/31/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>Then, it should work to use the new Elizabeth, Simplicity, without the slope
>in the breast area to make the corset in the Janet arnold book, right?  (The
>one with the boning absent where the breasts would be)

If you're a B-cup or less, yes, it should work.  More than that and you will
probably need to change the angle of the shoulder strap.  Also, the neckline
will need to be lowered several inches. 


Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 07:13 AM 09/01/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>     So where in the EBay site does one discover 'period' [whatever period]
>garments, please?   I was looking through the fabric pages... .  Thank you.
> Carol

There is no specific costume category on Ebay, although there ought to be.
If you search on "costume" alone you'll get thousands of hits for costume
jewelry.  

I've seen costumes in the vintage sections, regular clothing, bridal, and
collectibles.  You really have to search on things like "rennaissance
costume" , and expect to see some really wonky examples thereof.  

Pricing can range from very good to outrageous, depending on how many people
are bidding.  I find that the prices on any fabric I would want tend to be
ridiculous, and costume  patterns that you can get at JoAnne's $.99 sale are
selling for up to $20.

Also be warned that Ebay buying is a case of caveat emptor.  I have seen
"medieval" costumes that would make an SCA newbie blush, and on the other
hand, I've seen 1840's lingerie labeled 1950's.  You have to know about what
you're buying, or just not care.  

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 12:25:11 1999
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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Hiring servants, was Re: H-COST: elizabethans hanging things  from their belts
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19990831201452.3b37abbe@mail2.quiknet.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


Wow! I'm sold!  Where do you live?
Emma

> Now, now, not so fast, Margo. Maybe we need to bid on David's
services.<G>
> There are several of us who could use a sturdy groom. And Michealmas hiring
> day is coming soon!
> 
> Master David, I would pay thee two pounds a year plus livery [see, I *did*
> keep it costume-related! <g>] plus full board & lodging and will provide
> thee a horse with its yearly keeping since I must travel with the Queen
> where e're she goes. What say you?
> Joan Jurancich
> aka Mistress Blanche Parry, chief Gentlewoman to the Queen [RPFN]
> joanj@quiknet.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wardrobe Place
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 17:45:24 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Karen wrote:
> I was in London just this last February and much to my dismay, I found
> that Wardrobe Place is in the middle of being redeveloped. The lovely and
> picturesque courtyard which I found on my first few trips to London is
> now being torn down and built up with what I expect will be nasty modern
> buildings. You can't even really go into the courtyard because it is a
> construction site and you need permission and safety gear. 

Oh no, they did it again.

St.
> Andrews-by-Wardrobe, a church just next door, had a photographic display
> of some of the urban archeology which was done just as the 17th-18th
> century buildings were being torn down and which show some of the remains
> of the old Wardrobe which were found under them. All that is probably
> covered up with modern excressences by now. The Old City is still worth a
> look-see if you want a flavor of Old London. They haven't ruined
> everything....yet........

Last time I was there was in 1991 and it still was the same as the first
time in 1968: the Youth Hostel, the Breakfast Place opposite, manned by
loud Italians, the little shops and offices. Are you telling me they have
gone too. What about the beautiful pub at the head of Carter Lane near
Blackfriars?

Shame,


Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 14:11:24 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 12:27:27 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Sarah,  There are a couple of pages of patterns for sale in the AlterYears
catalog. (I don't really recommend ordering from them if you don't have a
couple of months to wait for your order.)  I think there are some in the
Amazon Dry Goods catalog too.
   Michelle


>
>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

>I found a BEAUTIFUL gypsy costume on eBay today... so
>now I must find the pattern for one... does anyone
>know where I could find a pattern for the really
>frouffy (is that a word?) gypsy dancer outfits?
>Please?
>
>Sarah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 14:22:52 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: WAS:  Re: H-COST: Gypsy pattern, NOW: EBay
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 12:38:55 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

I have been thinking about this.  People tend to make more costumes as their
shape or size changes.  Which means, they end up with a box or closet full
of stuff they wont or can't use.    Why don't more people swap?  I think it
would be fun.  I have given away a few of my things but, I would have rather
traded.  (Not that I didn't enjoy helping the new-to-fair people...)  I have
noticed that on both the SCA garb and H-Cost list, when someone mentions
having anything that doesn't fit them anymore, there seems to be at least 2
people that ask about it.
  However, there is that 'standards' problem.


>
>Carol, it's mostly a luck thing. I search on things like "renaissance",
>"costume", "garb", "corset", etc. Some of the "custom made costumes" are
not
>quite up to my standards (no offense meant to anyone on this list who sells
>on ebay) but there are a couple of people clearing out their costume
closets
>for whatever reason.
>
>I think there is also a section on patterns and historical clothing.
>
>Good luck, but it's addictive. :-)
>Dani G
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 14:37:50 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 14:46:41 -0500
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From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

Hello List!

I hope someone has a solution to a problem I'm having.  I'm making a
version of the Shinrone Gown to wear this weekend and I'm using buttons to
lace up the front of the bodice.  After getting the 2-dozen little buggers
on last night, I discovered that the cording slips off the buttons rather
easily.  The buttons are 3/8" shank buttons in silver-toned metal.  The
buttons would pull over, and the cord slipped off.  I then tried to "crimp"
the shanks, squeezing gently with pliers.  That helped a bit, but I was
hoping someone on the list could give me a tip or 3 on the subject.  Would
one type or size of cording work better than another?  Or is there
something else I can do to the buttons to make this more secure in closing?

Thanks for any suggestions!
Doris


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 14:38:49 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Got beets, now what?
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 12:54:41 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

I think warming with vinegar in your beet-water mixture should set the color
well enough.  Every year, when I decorate Easter eggs, I use onion skins.
This is how I do it:  Simmer skins in water (enough to cover) until skins
are transparant, take out skins.  Put new skins in, again simmer until
transparant.  Doing it in stages allows for a darker dye (smaller amount of
water, otherwise you dilute the color). Add one quarter to one half a cup of
vinegar to the pot.   You can simmer the eggs with the color or cook them
and let them sit in the cool water. (You can put a leaf, flower, papercut
against the shell and wrap it tightly with a piece of nylon stocking to hold
it in position.  This makes a pretty decoration. Just make sure the plant
pieces are edible.  Don't poison yourself.)
   I took a class on cooking for children.  During the class we had a
special unit on Easter egg dying naturally.  You can color them with carots,
beets, etc. too. There were a list of veggies and these were on it. No
matter which veggie you used, it pretty much works the same way as I
described above.  If it colors eggs, why wouldn't it work for your fabric?


>
>-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <karalee.larsen@usa.net>
>
>A friend has had an over abundance of beets grow in her garden this year
>and she has a question. She's heard that beets were used for dying. If that
>is true, where would we look for information on mordants, and all the other
>stuff needed to dye and fix a peice of cloth?
>


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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 12:58:55 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

>  After getting the 2-dozen little buggers
> on last night, I discovered that the cording slips off the buttons rather
> easily.  The buttons are 3/8" shank buttons in silver-toned metal.  The
> buttons would pull over, and the cord slipped off.  [snip] Or is there
> something else I can do to the buttons to make this more secure in closing?

Well, in elizabethan period some men's doublets had lacing eyelets with buttons
sewn next to them.  So there would be the look of lots of beautiful expensive
buttons but the doublet would be laced closed.  You could add a row of eyelets
and lace in a similar fashion.  I can't think of any way to make buttons work
except to use buttons that have no shank, flat, round, not-period buttons.  But
you could use wood, metal, or bone buttons maybe at least they aren't plastic.
They would just have to be buttons that lie flat against the fabric and don't
wobble.  Why did you opt for buttons and not lacing?

Merouda
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 15:05:38 1999
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

I've heard of lacing through the shanks, after dropping them through they
eyelets. I want to try this sometime when I have a lot of nice buttons.

BTW, does anyone know how authentic/inauthentic it woulkd be if the buttons
werent' all the same, but of similar type? Any period knowledge welcome...

-Amanda


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From: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>
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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>

AArrrrgghhh, don't keep me in suspense like this!! ;-)  Can you find the
ebay pic and copy/past the url to it (whole thang) into a post?

Thanks
Heather
(who might be able to help you out if I could see the one you're looking
at)

> I found a BEAUTIFUL gypsy costume on eBay today... so
> now I must find the pattern for one... does anyone
> know where I could find a pattern for the really
> frouffy (is that a word?) gypsy dancer outfits? 
> Please?
> 
> Sarah
>
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Subject: H-COST: EBay
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 9/1/99 2:35:43 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mandrake@mypad.com writes:

> Why don't more people swap?  I think it would be fun. 

Michelle~
I agree completely! People who participate regularly in events requiring 
costume/garb tend to make several pieces for variety (myself included). I do 
have a friend that I swap pieces with to keep from wearing the same outfit 
every day of our 18 day run or at other faires that may call for a different 
time period.

Are you suggesting a costume swap via list? How do you propose to do so? I 
think it's a *fantastic* idea if it can be accomplished. Not only do I change 
sizes, my children are growing. What do I do with outgrown costumes that are 
not worth the effort of altering them?

>However, there is that 'standards' problem.

I truly did not mean my comment to be offensive. I have been doing faire and 
making costumes for myself, my husband and my children for eight years. While 
I am by no means a professional seamstress, I do try to stay period and pay 
attention to things like color and fabric. Some of the things I have seen on 
ebay have been in bright, shiny gold, trimmed in fur, have zippers, or are 
poly-rayon blends that look like poly-rayon. Those types of things would not 
be acceptable at our faire. That's all I meant by "standards."  I like to 
look like I know what I'm doing.

I apologize if I've stepped on any toes.

DaniG

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 15:43:52 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 15:54:19 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: ebay gypsy costume?
In-Reply-To: <37CDB1C4.2BF2@enteract.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Well there are several on there so please list the one you saw, here are
the ones I saw
http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=wethree3

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 1 Sep 1999, lynnx wrote:

> Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 16:07:48 -0700
> From: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: ebay gypsy costume?
> 
> 
> -Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>
> 
> AArrrrgghhh, don't keep me in suspense like this!! ;-)  Can you find the
> ebay pic and copy/past the url to it (whole thang) into a post?
> 
> Thanks
> Heather
> (who might be able to help you out if I could see the one you're looking
> at)
> 
> > I found a BEAUTIFUL gypsy costume on eBay today... so
> > now I must find the pattern for one... does anyone
> > know where I could find a pattern for the really
> > frouffy (is that a word?) gypsy dancer outfits? 
> > Please?
> > 
> > Sarah
> >
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 15:46:12 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990901142611.009484e0@djnash.mail.iastate.edu>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Well, my suggestion is to make loops on the cording if you have enough of
it and just loop them on the buttons, kinda like lassos. You can tie loops
or just loop and twist as you go.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 1 Sep 1999, Doris J Nash wrote:

> Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 14:46:41 -0500
> From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
> 

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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 16:58:36 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: ebay gypsy costume?
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

> AArrrrgghhh, don't keep me in suspense like this!! ;-)  Can you find the
>  ebay pic and copy/past the url to it (whole thang) into a post?

Heather, I don't know if this is the one Sarah was looking at, but I found a 
neat outfit at 
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=156092882

I went to misc/clothing/women and searched on gypsy. There were 53 items 
listed.

Is that the one, Sarah?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 16:31:46 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 17:41:03 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
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-Poster: DzMzLzy@aol.com

I've done something that looks like lacing with buttons but isn't really.  

The trick is to put an O-ring or a d-ring on so that the button is holding 
the ring and then you lace through the ring.  Ta-da!  I did this on a dress I 
laced in front with some flat woven braid and it allowed me to keep the braid 
flat.  

Important!  The ring has to be smaller than the button AND it's best if the 
rings are solid welded closed.  If there is an opening in the ring the lacing 
will either get caught, or slip out.  Really irritating.

Liz Gerds
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 16:50:51 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 17:01:12 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
In-Reply-To: <37CD857E.3C820BB6@serv.net>
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 12:58 PM 9/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
>>  After getting the 2-dozen little buggers
>> on last night, I discovered that the cording slips off the buttons rather
>> easily.  The buttons are 3/8" shank buttons in silver-toned metal.  The
>> buttons would pull over, and the cord slipped off.  [snip] Or is there
>> something else I can do to the buttons to make this more secure in closing?
>
>Well, in elizabethan period some men's doublets had lacing eyelets with
buttons
>sewn next to them.  So there would be the look of lots of beautiful expensive
>buttons but the doublet would be laced closed.  You could add a row of eyelets
>and lace in a similar fashion.  I can't think of any way to make buttons work
>except to use buttons that have no shank, flat, round, not-period buttons.
 But
>you could use wood, metal, or bone buttons maybe at least they aren't plastic.
>They would just have to be buttons that lie flat against the fabric and don't
>wobble.  Why did you opt for buttons and not lacing?
>
	I've had the buttons for a long time, and this seemed a good way to use
them.  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand, sorry!) that buttons
were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that period.

>Merouda
>--
>Cynthia Long
>Merouda the True of Bornover
>Barony of Madrone
>Kingdom of An Tir
	
	Thanks for the suggestion!
Doris


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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 15:15:44 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

>         I've had the buttons for a long time, and this seemed a good way to use
> them.  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand, sorry!) that buttons
> were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that period.

But doubtful on the Shinrone dress.  But you've got lots of great ideas.  Just
remember that just because something is period in one place at one time doesn't
make it period in another place even in the same time.  I thought the idea about
sewing little metal rings next to the buttons to be particularly inspired.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 17:16:02 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 15:26:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: ebay gypsy costume?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Here you go... it took some work to find 'cuz the
auction is over, but I found it. ;-)  I'm still
drooling...

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150803941

Sarah

> AArrrrgghhh, don't keep me in suspense like this!!
> ;-)  Can you find the
> ebay pic and copy/past the url to it (whole thang)
> into a post?
> 
> Thanks
> Heather
> (who might be able to help you out if I could see
> the one you're looking
> at)
> 
> > I found a BEAUTIFUL gypsy costume on eBay today...
> so
> > now I must find the pattern for one... does anyone
> > know where I could find a pattern for the really
> > frouffy (is that a word?) gypsy dancer outfits? 
> > Please?
> > 
> > Sarah
> >
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 17:20:18 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: ebay gypsy costume?
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Nope... but is is neat... I'm looking for a bit more
flamboyant... something to rival my auburn flaming
hair... ;-)

Sarah


http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=156092882
> 
> I went to misc/clothing/women and searched on gypsy.
> There were 53 items 
> listed.
> 
> Is that the one, Sarah?
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 18:09:36 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 14:41:45 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: NOW: Recycling clothing 'outgrown'/&c. WAS: EBay  -- ATTN:
  Grania esp.
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:38 PM 9/1/99,  "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com> wrote:
>I have been thinking about this.  People tend to make more costumes as their
>shape or size changes.  Which means, they end up with a box or closet full
>of stuff they wont or can't use.    Why don't more people swap?  I think it
>would be fun.  I have given away a few of my things but, I would have rather
>traded.  (Not that I didn't enjoy helping the new-to-fair people...)  I have
>noticed that on both the SCA garb and H-Cost list, when someone mentions
>having anything that doesn't fit them anymore, there seems to be at least 2
>people that ask about it.
>  However, there is that 'standards' problem.
                     It seems to me that in this case--this might also be
the answer to part of the FAQ for newcomers to the SCA, inc.   "Where do I
find clothes, if I can't sew and don't know anyone who will?"   Gold Key
has loaner garb and is at most Kingdom level events, and some
Principality/Local events have their own Gold Keys, too.   I highly
recommend donating attire you've outgrown or just don't want anymore to
them.  It's a good cause and they always need the help!  -- Gra/inne

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 18:11:28 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 14:57:53 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Kilts, Regimental & Piercing...
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

         I wrote to a friend of mine, as I felt he could speak with some
authority on the topics  under discussion.  Here is his response:
>You may quote me, Carol.  You may quote Aryeh J.S. Nusbacher, Senior
Lecturer,
>Royal Military Academy, Sandhurst, late 48th Highlanders of Canada, as saying
>"there is not the merest scintilla of evidence to suggest that body
piercing was
>ever required or permitted as part of wearing kilts by any Highland, Lowland,
>Scottish or Irish regiments of HM British or Commonwealth forces."
>
>Carol J. Bell Cannon [aka: Gra/inne ingen Domnaill Ilda/naig] wrote:
>
>> So--what is the military requirement about what one wears under the
>> kilt--don't I recall you saying you were allowed some kind of
underpinnings?
>
>You do not.  By convention, male highlanders do not wear anything under their
>kilts.
>
>I do know, however, know precisely when the practice of being naked under the
>kilt began.  It might have been during Queen Victoria's reign -- she ordered
>military kilts to be made from a lighter-weight fabric because of
discomfort to
>the soldiers.  I do know that the custom was in place as early as the First
>World War.
>
>You may quote me on that as well.
>
>Best,
>
>Aryk
> 
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 14:50:30 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 04:19 PM 9/1/99, Amanda <sustre@pixelations.com> wrote: I've heard of
lacing through the shanks, after dropping them through the eyelets. I want
to try this sometime when I have a lot of nice buttons.
              I would fear that the tension on the shanks would pull them
apart and cause the buttons to be more easily lost.  I would love to know
what those who have tried that technique have found to be the case. --
Gra/inne

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 18:24:46 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 16:37:28 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I would fear that the tension on the shanks would pull them
> apart and cause the buttons to be more easily lost.  I would love to know
> what those who have tried that technique have found to be the case. --

Front what I can tell, in England, from the 13th to the 18th centuries this
was a common way of attaching buttons.  Make little eyelets, stick the shanks
through the eyelets, use a string to connect all the shanks, knot the string.
Voila, removable buttons.  This was a sensible practice in times when buttons
were extremely expensive.  And in times when royalty was using button with
precious stones, a very parctical solution.

Remember the diamond buttons in "Three Musketeers".  Why keep buttons in a
box?  Because you only temporarily attached buttons to garments so that you
could have diamond buttons on all your clothing but only one set of buttons.

In the Thames digs, they found eyelet strips with absolutely *no* tension
marks on them at all.  They suspect this was because buttons were attached in
this corded manner.  Which tells me, that if this is so, then the buttons
should be fine.  If the buttons are having enough tension put on them to break
them then the garment is *way* too tight and no matter how you attach them,
they're going to bust.  Or your buttons aren't sturdy enough to do their job.

Any other ideas?
Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand, sorry!) that buttons
>> were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that period.
>
>But doubtful on the Shinrone dress.

Why?  

The description of Irish women's dress by  Luke Gernon in the 1620's says: 

. On the forepart of those bodyes they have a sett of broad silver buttons
of goldsmiths worke sett round about. 

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 20:35:17 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Saffron shirts
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-Poster: Kevin + Mara Riley <lindo@radix.net>

At 01:17 PM 08/30/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>As far as I have been able to asetain, saffron was not avaliable to the
>majority of the saffron shirt wearers in the earlier period. However a
>bright yellow can be achieved very easily with several plants, onion skins
>particularly springs to mind. However this dosen';t answer the question of
>why they were called saffron shirts as opposed to onion skin shirts or
>whatever :), unless the describers were familiar with the more expensive
>saffron as a dyestuff and described it such ? Like we say orange for a
>colour & a fruit , what can first the colour or the fruit ? Anyone know ?
>
>Mel

Mel, the dye used was weld.

-- Mara

-------------------------------------------
"I tried to contain myself... but I escaped."
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Textiles_Page.htm
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 19:37:34 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <E11MJLX-00073m-00@mongoose.slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling clothing 'outgrown'/&c. 
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 20:42:57 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

LOL,  theatre shops and museums loan all the time.  Theatre shops swap or
loan with one another, and museums loan to other museums.

Later... Penny
************************************
Deadline for entries to the Online Costume Ball  is Sept. 21st.
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  1 20:30:43 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Neat History Website
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 21:38:33 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Spy Letters of the American Revolution (website),
http://www.si.umich.edu/spies/  Looks interesting!!!

Later... Penny
************************************
Deadline for entries to the Online Costume Ball  is Sept. 21st.
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 01:21:49 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 23:38:24 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

. I thought the idea about
>sewing little metal rings next to the buttons to be particularly inspired.
>
>Cynthia



I, also, thought that idea was cool.
        Another idea, along the same line with the rings:  If you have
eyelets, you can use shank buttons.  Put a jump/split (like key rings but
small, I can't remember their proper name) through the shank after inserting
the shank in the eyelet. This puts the ring on the inside of the garment and
the button flat on the outside.  You can then, lace through the rings. (This
is a way to cover those dumb, unperiod grommets too)

  Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: EBay
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 23:53:48 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


-->
>Michelle~
>
>Are you suggesting a costume swap via list? How do you propose to do so? I
>think it's a *fantastic* idea if it can be accomplished. Not only do I
change
>sizes, my children are growing. What do I do with outgrown costumes that
are
>not worth the effort of altering them?

I have all of the dresses my daughter has worn to faire since her birth. She
is now eight.  I just keep them... I have also changed sizes.
   I didn't mean 'exactly' via list. I would have to think about that.  It
would seem that pictures, descriptions and sizes/measurements, would have to
be posted somewhere. Hmm...maybe a swaping website?  I will work on this
idea and see what I can come up with. I figured when I made the comment to
the list that something like that would have to be more localized.  Now, I
am thinking it might be possible. Got any suggestions?
>
>>However, there is that 'standards' problem.
     What I meant by this, is... people couldn't be extremely picky. For
something like this to work there would have to be some flexibility in
costuming standards.  No matter how bad something is, someone spent time and
effort to do it.  That should be respected.  Trades should be of equal value
and quality, periodness included.


>I truly did not mean my comment to be offensive.
>DaniG
What comment?  There was absolutely nothing directed at you or any one else
on the list.  I hope I clarified my thought better now.

  Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 01:56:24 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: NOW: Recycling clothing 'outgrown'/&c. WAS: EBay  -- ATTN: Grania esp.
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 00:13:23 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

 Carol,
   Most of the garb I make is for everyone else.  I end up doing it for
nothing. Once, I charged my nephews girlfriend $20 for each piece (she got
an overdress, underskirt and chemise=$60.  I was so thrilled, I bought
myself one of those mini sergers with the money).  If someone comes to me
and needs help, I usually do it for them.  Consequently, I never seem to get
around to making anything for myself.
   I am under the impression that most of us do things like this. This is
why swapping sounded nice.
   I wasn't aware of the Gold Key.  Where is it? I am in CAID (Fresno).  Can
you email me privately with more info on who directs this aspect?
   Michelle


>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>                     It seems to me that in this case--this might also be
>the answer to part of the FAQ for newcomers to the SCA, inc.   "Where do I
>find clothes, if I can't sew and don't know anyone who will?"   Gold Key
>has loaner garb and is at most Kingdom level events, and some
>Principality/Local events have their own Gold Keys, too.   I highly
>recommend donating attire you've outgrown or just don't want anymore to
>them.  It's a good cause and they always need the help!  -- Gra/inne
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 06:24:09 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Got beets, now what?
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 22:48:27 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

You can cut them like potatoes and printing with them. Cut
in half, and the carve a shape out of the flat part.  Makes
lovely designs on white tissue paper to use for gift wrap.
Did it myself once, and I was quite pleased with the
results. They create their own ink.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Michelle
> Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 3:55 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Got beets, now what?
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
> I think warming with vinegar in your beet-water mixture
> should set the color
> well enough.  Every year, when I decorate Easter eggs, I
use
> onion skins.
> This is how I do it:  Simmer skins in water (enough to
cover)
> until skins
> are transparant, take out skins.  Put new skins in, again
simmer until
> transparant.  Doing it in stages allows for a darker dye
> (smaller amount of
> water, otherwise you dilute the color). Add one quarter to
> one half a cup of
> vinegar to the pot.   You can simmer the eggs with the
color
> or cook them
> and let them sit in the cool water. (You can put a leaf,
> flower, papercut
> against the shell and wrap it tightly with a piece of
nylon
> stocking to hold
> it in position.  This makes a pretty decoration. Just make
> sure the plant
> pieces are edible.  Don't poison yourself.)
>    I took a class on cooking for children.  During the
class we had a
> special unit on Easter egg dying naturally.  You can color
> them with carots,
> beets, etc. too. There were a list of veggies and these
were on it. No
> matter which veggie you used, it pretty much works the
same way as I
> described above.  If it colors eggs, why wouldn't it work
for
> your fabric?
>
>
> >
> >-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <karalee.larsen@usa.net>
> >
> >A friend has had an over abundance of beets grow in her
> garden this year
> >and she has a question. She's heard that beets were used
for
> dying. If that
> >is true, where would we look for information on mordants,
> and all the other
> >stuff needed to dye and fix a peice of cloth?
> >
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
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>


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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 07:41:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

There is a tradition in Ireland of using jeweled clasps to
hold the front of a dress closed.  In the 18th century, you
can ID an Irish woman compared to an English woman by this.
It was an old, old custom at the time.  How did the claps
fasten?  I don't know, but am eager to find out.  There are
so many in portraits, that there must be some in Irish
museums. Sets of them were rather Renaissance in appearance
in the 18th Century, and commonly passed down from relative
to relative, surviving generations.  Mairead Dunleavy
reports lots of self-fabric covered buttons on wool garments
in Irish history, and decoratively used where buttons are
not needed, like fron wrist to shoulder on the back of a
man's coat sleeve, etc.  I can't remember what she says
about the Shinrone gown on this point, and the book went
back to ILL long time ago.  I wouldn't rule out buttons on
the Shinrone dress, myself.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Merouda the True of Bornover
> Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 6:16 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
>
>
>
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
> >         I've had the buttons for a long time, and this
> seemed a good way to use
> > them.  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand,
sorry!)
> that buttons
> > were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that
period.
>
> But doubtful on the Shinrone dress.  But you've got lots
of
> great ideas.  Just
> remember that just because something is period in one
place
> at one time doesn't
> make it period in another place even in the same time.  I
> thought the idea about
> sewing little metal rings next to the buttons to be
> particularly inspired.
>
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Bornover
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 06:24:36 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 07:32:34 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

In Janet Arnold's *Patterns of Fashion 3,* dealing
1550-1660, there's a discussion of lacing and buttons.  The
lacings never go around the button, but through eyelets in
the fabric or itty bitty rings sewn on to the garment.  The
buttons are sewn on in a decorative fashion only, typically
next to each ring, for a very tight spacing, but not always.
I don't have the book at home, but I think this is the
general gist of it.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Doris J Nash
> Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 1999 3:47 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
>
>
>
> -Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
>
> Hello List!
>
> I hope someone has a solution to a problem I'm having.
I'm making a
> version of the Shinrone Gown to wear this weekend and I'm
> using buttons to
> lace up the front of the bodice.  After getting the
2-dozen
> little buggers
> on last night, I discovered that the cording slips off the
> buttons rather
> easily.  The buttons are 3/8" shank buttons in
silver-toned
> metal.  The
> buttons would pull over, and the cord slipped off.  I then
> tried to "crimp"
> the shanks, squeezing gently with pliers.  That helped a
bit,
> but I was
> hoping someone on the list could give me a tip or 3 on the
> subject.  Would
> one type or size of cording work better than another?  Or
is there
> something else I can do to the buttons to make this more
> secure in closing?
>
> Thanks for any suggestions!
> Doris
>
>
>
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_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 08:53:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 10:02:35 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Saffron Shirts
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>Mel, the dye used was weld.

Mara, weld is rare in Scotland ,esp the highlands. I canna speak for Eire.

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 08:59:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 09:09:48 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 04:57 PM 9/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand, sorry!) that buttons
>>> were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that period.
>>
>>But doubtful on the Shinrone dress.
>
>Why?  
>
>The description of Irish women's dress by  Luke Gernon in the 1620's says: 
>
>. On the forepart of those bodyes they have a sett of broad silver buttons
>of goldsmiths worke sett round about. 
>
>Margo Anderson
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
Yes!  Thank you, Margo!  That was the quotation I read, just couldn't
remember where, only that it was in relation to the Shinrone Gown.

Thanks again!
Doris



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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Cynthia mentioned diamond buttons in "The Three Musketeers". I happened to re-read it in French recently and the term Dumas actually used is 'des ferrets en diamants'. According to my dictionary 'ferrets' are tags for putting on the ends of ribbons or laces. Presumably Buckingham was wearing a knot of ribbons stitched to his doublet with the diamonds on the ends when one was stolen. In English versions the jewels are usually described as buttons or a necklace, to get round the difficulty of literal translation.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> >  Also I read (Can't site the source offhand, sorry!) that buttons
> >>> were occasioonally used in place of eyelets in that period.
> >>But doubtful on the Shinrone dress.
> >Why?
> >The description of Irish women's dress by  Luke Gernon in the 1620's says:
>
> Yes!  Thank you, Margo!  That was the quotation I read, just couldn't
> remember where, only that it was in relation to the Shinrone Gown.

Really?  Buttons on the Shinrone Gown?  I didn't say buttons weren't on Irish
gowns, just not that I heard on the Shinrone gown.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 11:13:34 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Yes!  Thank you, Margo!  That was the quotation I read, just couldn't
>remember where, only that it was in relation to the Shinrone Gown.

You can find the rest of the quote at:
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/fenians/Shinrone/Shinrone.htm

The description matches the Shinrone gown quite closely, except that the
Shinrone gown lacks any kind of closure or any sign that buttons, lacing
eyes, etc, were ever attached.  Why is a mystery..although I like
Maggirose's theory that the maker got so sick and frustrated with the darn
thing that she wadded it up and threw it in the bog!


Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 11:25:21 -0500
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From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Button lacing/Shinrone Gown/etc.
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

Hello again!

First, I want to thank everyone for your input on my problem.  I started
thinking, "Where would be the best place to look for little rings--hardware
or craft dept.?  Or, how about hooks?  I could sew them to the underside of
the CF edge and...<slapping hand to forehead!>  or how about EYES!"  So
that's what I did, I used #6 black eyes, which are roughly triangular with
the loops for sewing on, and placed one under each button, so now the
buttons are purely decorative.

As for the Shinrone Gown, no, they didn't use buttons, because there was no
pulling or fabric displacement at the edge.  Actually, I'm not sure they
know how the Shinrone Gown was closed/fastened, but I was using the DeHeere
source as a way to place the buttons in that time and place, as a
possibility for a closure.  I was chuckling to myself last night, as I was
sewing the eyes on, "And I didn't think I had time to do worked eyelets!
Just goes to show you!"  I'm a theatre costumer myself, so my aesthetics
are less strict with regard to authenticity than others'.  I've used
grommets before, but wanted something different on this dress.  (But I am
machine-stitching the hem--sorry!)  :-)

Again, thanks everyone!
Doris


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 11:42:14 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Button lacing/Shinrone Gown/etc.
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:25 AM 09/02/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
>
>Hello again!
>
>First, I want to thank everyone for your input on my problem.  I started
>thinking, "Where would be the best place to look for little rings--hardware
>or craft dept.? 

I just made the bodice to my Flemish gown using Roman shade drapery rings.
I got them at JoAnes's, where they were hidden in the drapery hardware
department.  they're made of brass, about 1/2" in diameter, $2.50 for 40.

I doubled them, sewing two on as one, for extra strength, although that may
not be neccesary.  They look great!



Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 13:17:50 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing with buttons
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 11:27:06 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>Another idea, along the same line with the rings:  If you have >eyelets, 
>you can use shank buttons.  Put a jump/split (like key >rings but small, I 
>can't remember their proper name) through the >shank after inserting the 
>shank in the eyelet. This puts the ring on >the inside of the garment and 
>the button flat on the outside.  You >can then, lace through the rings. 
>(This is a way to cover those >dumb, unperiod grommets too)

OK.  I've been watching this thread really closely, but I still don't 
understand.  Are we talking about making a front closure to a bodice?  If 
so, what method are we using, laces or buttons or both?  Exactly how are the 
buttons supposed to be fastened?

Currently what I see is a bodice that has holes or rings on the front edge 
which are laced with a ribbon.  _Somehow_ the buttons are also attached and 
possibly cover the holes the lace goes through.

Please let me know if I got the clue bus and if not how to get on.  Also, 
pictures are worth... well you know.  I appreciate any clarification on this 
interesting topic.

Allessandre



"Those who give up a little liberty for safety, deserve neither liberty nor 
safety" - Ben Franklin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 13:40:42 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 11:52:46 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> OK.  I've been watching this thread really closely, but I still don't
> understand.  Are we talking about making a front closure to a bodice?  If
> so, what method are we using, laces or buttons or both?  Exactly how are the
> buttons supposed to be fastened?

You must have missed the first post.  The poster sewed shank buttons to the
front of a bodice in order to lace around the button shank.  It was not
successful.  The rest of the posts have been attempts to find solutions to the
problem.

> Currently what I see is a bodice that has holes or rings on the front edge
> which are laced with a ribbon.  _Somehow_ the buttons are also attached and
> possibly cover the holes the lace goes through.

Sounds like you've got it.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 16:52:03 1999
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: NOW: Recycling clothing 'outgrown'/&c. WAS: EBay  -- ATTN: Grania esp.
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 06:47:19 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

In the Barony (Carolingia) where I live we also have semi-regular meetings
where people will teach everything one needs to know about making garb,
including how to use a sewing machine and look for fabric.  Helping out,
even just attending has taught me a lot.

Kristin Page
>
 Gold Key. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 19:59:31 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: I'm b-a-a-a-ck!
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 18:07:54 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Flame shields up!

No, seriously, guys, I have been away from a computer for almost five months 
now.  Missed you all.  Jason & I are busily working on wonderful fall 
clothes and settling down to domestic life.  The kids are wonderful...Hope 
you all haven't quit talking about corsets...

;-D

Love,
Susannah

Susannah Eanes, Mantua Maker

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 20:09:08 1999
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From: "Sharon Kidder" <TheKidders@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 18:11:40 -0700
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-Poster: "Sharon Kidder" <TheKidders@worldnet.att.net>

Has anybody else noticed that Amazon UK is accepting orders for "Fashion in
the Age of the Black Prince" by Stella Mary Newton?  The price is 15.99
pounds.  Are they really going to republish it?  Anybody know anything
further?

Thanks,
Oriana of Myrtlewood (who normally just lurks)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 20:34:15 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Button lacing/Shinrone Gown/etc.
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 21:52:33 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 3 shows tiny rings, say
1/4 inch or less.  They are a jewelry item in craft stores,
less than a dollar for scads, but test strength before
purchasing so they don't deform from the lacings. They also
have to be continuous circles, not with a gap, which will
only open further when stressed. I'm quite sure they were
treated with something to get black and white.  The desired
look was that they not show.

Hope H. Dunlap




> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Doris J Nash
> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 1999 12:25 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Button lacing/Shinrone Gown/etc.
>
>
>
> -Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
>
> Hello again!
>
> First, I want to thank everyone for your input on my
problem.
>  I started
> thinking, "Where would be the best place to look for
little
> rings--hardware
> or craft dept.?  Or, how about hooks?  I could sew them to
> the underside of
> the CF edge and...<slapping hand to forehead!>  or how
about
> EYES!"  So
> that's what I did, I used #6 black eyes, which are roughly
> triangular with
> the loops for sewing on, and placed one under each button,
so now the
> buttons are purely decorative.
>
> As for the Shinrone Gown, no, they didn't use buttons,
> because there was no
> pulling or fabric displacement at the edge.  Actually, I'm
> not sure they
> know how the Shinrone Gown was closed/fastened, but I was
> using the DeHeere
> source as a way to place the buttons in that time and
place, as a
> possibility for a closure.  I was chuckling to myself last
> night, as I was
> sewing the eyes on, "And I didn't think I had time to do
> worked eyelets!
> Just goes to show you!"  I'm a theatre costumer myself, so
my
> aesthetics
> are less strict with regard to authenticity than others'.
I've used
> grommets before, but wanted something different on this
> dress.  (But I am
> machine-stitching the hem--sorry!)  :-)
>
> Again, thanks everyone!
> Doris
>
>
>
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_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 21:51:25 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Yes, it's true.  Green Duck Designs also says it will be out this month.

> Has anybody else noticed that Amazon UK is accepting orders for "Fashion in
> the Age of the Black Prince" by Stella Mary Newton?  The price is 15.99
> pounds.  Are they really going to republish it?  Anybody know anything
> further?

--
 You need height to prove that you have Leadership; you need money to
 communicate your views to the voters by means of TV commercials that
 have the subtlety of a Teletubbies episode, but less intellectual content.
-- Dave Barry
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 21:03:40 1999
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	 Thu, 2 Sep 1999 19:13:28 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Saffron Shirts
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 22:21:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

I've read that the saffron color could have been obtained
from lichens and other plants in Ireland and Scotland.
Can't be specific on a source book, however, or more
specific about the actual variety of plant.  Do yellow
lichens produce yellow leines?

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Melanie Wilson
> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 1999 10:03 AM
> To: INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Saffron Shirts
>
>
>
> -Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
> >Mel, the dye used was weld.
>
> Mara, weld is rare in Scotland ,esp the highlands. I canna
> speak for Eire.
>
> Mel
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 21:18:29 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> I've read that the saffron color could have been obtained
> from lichens and other plants in Ireland and Scotland.
> Can't be specific on a source book, however, or more
> specific about the actual variety of plant.  Do yellow
> lichens produce yellow leines?

While weld was not grown in Scotland, it was available as a 
commercial dyestuff, as was indigo (which some people thought was a 
mineral because it came in lump form. It's a semitropical plant so 
there's no way it would have grown in Scotland.)

There are a number of dyestuffs available in Scotland for dyeing. 
Alder, ash, bearberry, birch, bog myrtle, broom, corn marigold, cow 
parsley, crab apple, Crottle Evernia Prunastri (a lichen), dock, 
elder, heather, knapweed, marsh marigold, marsh woundwort, meadow 
sweet, nettles, Polyganum hydropiper, Polyganum persicaria, poplar, 
ragwort, whin, weld and yarrow are all listed as Scottish traditional 
dyes for yellow according to _Traditional Scottish Dyes_ by Jean 
Fraser (ISBN 0 86241 108 4).

Frankly, I suspect that Broom is the dyestuff used for the "saffron 
shirts." I've used it to make a fast, vibrant yellow (just not quite 
as mellow as the more expensive saffron.) It's relatively common in 
the British Isles (and is quite a weed if you aren't careful!)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 21:33:31 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990903011834.VWK21390@jkidder-home>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 22:42:16 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Yes, it is true.   One of their reprep contacted me yesterday.  It will be
available in the States late September for $35.00.  I think it is being
republished in the UK.

Later... Penny

http://www.costumegallery.com

> Has anybody else noticed that Amazon UK is accepting orders for "Fashion
in
> the Age of the Black Prince" by Stella Mary Newton?  The price is 15.99
> pounds.  Are they really going to republish it?  Anybody know anything
> further?


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 22:30:21 1999
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To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Kelly Rinne" <coskel2@yahoo.com>, "Kaye Boyer" <kboyer@dmv.com>
Subject: H-COST: Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of an American Industry. 
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 23:38:35 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Earlier today the History Channel had the following program on:

Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of an American Industry.

Cloth-making, America's first developed industry, helped weave freedom from
England; now, it's on the economic endangered list with threats from
international competition. Chronicled: U.S. textiles' birth; creation of
Lowell, Massachusetts, our first industrial city; labor unrest; and possible
future.

I watched the show.  It was really good history of the textile industry in
the U.S.  It started out with the first successful textile mill owned by
Samuel Slater.  The museum of the mill located in Rhode Island looked very
impressive.  Then they discussed the Boston Associates who backed the Lowell
Mills.  They discussed and showed models of how the factories were laid out.
Labor issues were discussed including use of children, young women, and
immigrants as workers.  Each job, such as spinners and weavers, were
described and footage was shown.  The development and impact of rayon were
detailed.

Then they discussed the impact of the Burlington Mills in North and South
Carolina on the 20th Century.  My grandmother moved into the city to become
a spinner during 1900 in one of these mills.  I often wondered about the
conditions under which she worked.  I have a written family history letter
from her sister-in-law, who also worked at the same mill, describing the
long hours.

This is part of their "History in the Classroom" series.  Online they have
an overview of the program, with vocabulary words and discussion questions
for the educators to use.

I did see at the end of the show that a video of the show is available for
sale via the History Channel.  So if you are interested in purchasing it, go
to the History Channel's website, http://www.historychannel.com, go to their
store, and type in the keyword "textile".  The cost is $19.95.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 22:40:19 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 22:51:29 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Try using a split ring rather than a jump ring...less likely to lose
lacing that way.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  2 23:26:21 1999
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Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 23:41:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: costuming giggles
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


Just got back from the movie "The 13th Warrior," based on the book "Eaters
of the Dead," a re-telling (with many liberties) of Beowolf.  The armor
was particularly amusing in it's inappropriateness.

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 02:17:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 03:20:15 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Saffron
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>I've read that the saffron color could have been obtained
from lichens and other plants in Ireland and Scotland.
Can't be specific on a source book, however, or more
specific about the actual variety of plant.  Do yellow
lichens produce yellow leines?

Lichens are not my area as they are endangered, but I know opf a few coomon
scottish plants producing yellows, which are used & can be documented for
use, unfortunatly much of the dye lore is by word of mouth so how far back
it goes it debatable, however we do know what grew to a certain extent in a
certain area, from pollen analysis etc

Mel
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of an American Industry. 
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> international competition. Chronicled: U.S.
> textiles' birth; creation of
> Lowell, Massachusetts, our first industrial city;
> labor unrest; and possible

Woo-hoo!  I love it when they talk about my city! ;-)

Lowell has some facinating history and loves to share
it... if any of you are ever in the area, the textile
mill is well worth the trip...

Sarah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 08:11:17 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 09:18:05 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Josh Webb <JoshW@Aiken.SC.Edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of an American
 Industry.
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-Poster: Josh Webb <JoshW@Aiken.SC.Edu>


I've been to the textile museum in Lowell, and you're right it is
fantastic. I'm currently living in South Carolina in an old textile town
(Formerly home of the Graniteville Company now Avondale). In fact the home
I purchased a couple of years ago is an old company house from the 20's. My
neighbor worked for the company from before WWII until the early 90's and
he bought his home from them for about $2900. Not bad, everything I hear
from him is that it was a pretty good place to work, but the south has such
a history of poverty that I get the impression that he was just thankful to
have a job.


J. Webb


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From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
To: "'H-COST'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Venetians/Trunkhose
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-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>



Does anyone know of something online or have any suggestions on how to make
a set of venetians or trunkhose ?  I need to make a set for an event next
weekend and would like any help/suggestions that you have. I am
approximatley 5'11" and 200 lbs. 

Thanks,

Brad Wilson
Carrollton, GA


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 09:43:20 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 07:58:57 -0700
From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@mackie.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Boydell and Brewer is re-releasing this title and it can be 
ordered directly from them - $35 US plus postage.   I just 
found out yesterday that it will probably be October or 
November before it is released.  The original publication 
date was supposed to be September.  

Normally, Amazon's books are discounted from the publisher's price, but this time - no discount.

Colleen McDonald Hinrichs
aka Cainder nic Sheanlaoich



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 09:53:20 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 11:05:09 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of an
	AmericanIndustry.
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Hi, All,

The American History Textile Museum moved its fabulous textile collection -- 
both finished goods and equipment to an old mill in Lowell, Massachusetts. 
They began adding costumes to show the complete cycle of cloth. Their second 
floor includes a wonderful exhibit of historic fashions and a loom room with 
the 19th century looms still producing fabric that they sell in their museum 
shop.

Worth a trip if you are on the East Coast. Check February 1999 in Historic 
Fashions of Women & Children calendar for pictures and more information.

Sally

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 10:58:10 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 08:44:54 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Venetians/Trunkhose
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
>
>
>
>Does anyone know of something online or have any suggestions on how to make
>a set of venetians or trunkhose ?  I need to make a set for an event next
>weekend and would like any help/suggestions that you have. I am
>approximatley 5'11" and 200 lbs.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Brad Wilson
>Carrollton, GA

Expand the trunkhose and venetian patterns up for your size in Patterns of
Fashion, 1550-1650 by Janet Arnold.  The venetians are not too complex.  If
you don't have it, ask around, most 16th c re-enactors or costumers have
it...

I find they come out really nice pinked in those nice X patterns all over
if done on a light felted wool flannel worn over a light denim weight
lining.

Good Luck,

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 11:33:21 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Sorry for the waste of bandwidth, folks, but this lady is on a heavy
deadline ands sounds desperate.  

Michelle:  check your mailbox!  I keep sending you the corset/bodice help,
and it's bouncing back with a "mailbox disk full" message.

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 12:16:06 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 13:26:12 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Another auction site
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Cc: LIST SCA arts <sca-arts@raven.cc.ukans.edu>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Might be of interest to auction addicts like me ! Anyone know any others ? 

EDEAL.COM, a new, very advanced, person-to-person online auction service
that has the following 11 advantages over the services provided by other
auction websites:

1) Try it for free!  If you don't sell your item, you don't pay a posting
fee.
2) Multiple posting options: open and reserve auctions, as well as our own
InterActive Classified.
3) Free Mac & PC Evaluators: Find out what your computer is worth.
4) Credit Card payment for speedier transactions.
5) Credit Card payment to protect you against fraud.
6) Free image upload to our server (you don't need to host your own web
pages).
7) Automatically copy your personal ratings from any other auction service
when you register.
8) A strong Privacy Policy: Nobody can get your email address.
9) Advanced Parametric Search.
10) Our loyalty program allows you to earn and use ipoints towards rewards
and even shares of edeal.
11) Instant update so you can see your postings immediately.  And more!

We want you to try us out for free. When you register at www.edeal.com, you
will automatically receive 100 ipoints, which can be redeemed for various
rewards or used in special ipoints auctions.


Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 14:45:36 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 15:55:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern Sale
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Just thought I'd let y'all know...I went to Jo-Ann's today, and they're
having a sale on all of their simplicity patterns.  Including the
"Shakespeare in Love" one.  I got two at $1.99 each!

Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 16:19:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 17:27:27 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Empires of Industry: Textiles: Birth of
	anAmericanIndustry.
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I visited the new home of the American Textile History Museum.  
Interestingly, the building was not a textile mill but rather, I think, one 
that made machinery.  They have a huge amount of stuff that isn't on display. 
 I was very lucky the day I went to encounter a volunteer who took me behind 
the scenes and showed me some of it.  I concur that it is worth a visit.
Ann Wass
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 15:24:40 -0700
Subject: H-COST: new email address
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

For those of you who email me off the list I have a new email address
effective immediately.
rlshep@home.com
This is a *cable ready* system and is instaneous.  My old server was always
kicking me off line when I was in the middle of doing research.  This will
not be a problem now.
BUT it was absolute hell getting it set up. And I mean many days of hell and
it not working.  Looking back on it I wonder that I ever managed to go ahead
with it.  But here I am.

~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 16:26:05 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
> 
> Just got back from the movie "The 13th Warrior," based on the book "Eaters
> of the Dead," a re-telling (with many liberties) of Beowolf.  The armor
> was particularly amusing in it's inappropriateness.
> 
> Emma
>
 Excuuuuse meeee :-) While it may have *bits* of Beowolf (pun intended)
it is based on a *true* story. This came up on the very serious,
academic
Medieval middle east list. In the 10th century, the Caliph at Baghdad
sent Ibn Fadlan as an envoy to the Bulgars. In the tradition of many
other Islamic travellers, he wrote it all down. Unfortunately, it
has been translated into every language except English.
  Somehow Crichton got ahold of the basic story and embellished
it (extensively) But he did such a good job, that at least one
scholar thought he had somehow found the missing part of Ibn Fadlan's
MS!!  
  I read Eaters of the Dead years ago and had forgotten it was a
Crichton story. So I'm looking forward to seeing the movie this
weekend. Is it any good at all??

Susan Fatemi
-- 
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 21:01:00 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 99 02:11:20 GMT
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com

> -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

>  Excuuuuse meeee :-) While it may have *bits* of Beowolf (pun intended)
> it is based on a *true* story.
    uh, actually it's not based on a *true* story, it's based on a true 
*story*, if you see the difference. Chrichton's _Eater's of the Dead_ is indeed 
a story (that part is true), but from what I've heard, the movie is only 
"based" on it and doesn't follow it very well. However, it's not exactly a 
*true* story. The book was written very well in its attempt to combine just 
enough bits of the *true* Ibn Fadlan account of the Rus with the story of 
Beowulf to make it seem authentic. Yes, it is supposed to be Beowulf - Crichton 
had made a bet whether anyone could write a book based on Beowulf and get it on 
the best sellers list, so he did. The current movie version, "13th Warrior" has 
undergone many test showings and many re-writes, and a few different names 
(like "The Last Viking").

>  This came up on the very serious, academic Medieval middle east list. In the 
> 10th century, the Caliph at Baghdad sent Ibn Fadlan as an envoy to the 
> Bulgars.
    The Rus, they were Swedish. Now he may also have gone to the Bulgars, I 
don't know all his travels, but in this case he is known for his write-up on 
the Rus.

>  In the tradition of many other Islamic travellers, he wrote it all down. 
> Unfortunately, it has been translated into every language except English.
    unfortunately true.

>   Somehow Crichton got ahold of the basic story and embellished
> it (extensively) But he did such a good job, that at least one
> scholar thought he had somehow found the missing part of Ibn Fadlan's
> MS!!  
    well, that's in part because Crichton made that claim.

>   I read Eaters of the Dead years ago and had forgotten it was a
> Crichton story. So I'm looking forward to seeing the movie this
> weekend. Is it any good at all??
    A man from oldnorsenet wrote a review on it that was pretty scathing. He 
mentioned (and here's the costume part of the message!) something about while 
there weren't any horns on the helmets of the good guys (I guess there are on 
the bad guys), he was sure he saw a Roman Gladitorial helmet on one of the 
vikings, as well as a 16th cent Spanish helmet on another! The weapons were 
wrong, the armor was wrong, and they spent most of the movie being drunk, 
inarticulate, and vomiting. If you like *really* schlocky viking movies, and 
Animal House type of humour, you might like the movie. Personally, I'd rather 
sew on a costume and put the money towards fabric.

    -Judy Mitchell

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 22:05:15 1999
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From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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	 <37D0590D.787D@netwiz.net> <M.090399.221120.72@erols.com>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

trekona@erols.com wrote:
> 
...
> enough bits of the *true* Ibn Fadlan account of the Rus with the story of
> Beowulf to make it seem authentic. Yes, it is supposed to be Beowulf - 

Rats. Sounds like they practically ignore the Ibn Fadlan 
connection. Which was the main reason I wanted to see it.
There are so many good stories waiting to be made, why
do they waste gazillions of $$$ on junk? (rhetorical question)

> inarticulate, and vomiting. If you like *really* schlocky viking movies, and
> Animal House type of humour, you might like the movie. Personally, I'd rather
> sew on a costume and put the money towards fabric.

Not normally, no. But this was going to be a "treat".
Maybe we'll go see 6th Sense, instead.

sigh.

Susan

-- 
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep  3 23:57:08 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 22:09:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Peggy A. Stonnell" <izzie@vcn.bc.ca>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint
In-Reply-To: <M.090399.221120.72@erols.com>
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-Poster: "Peggy A. Stonnell" <izzie@vcn.bc.ca>

On Sat, 4 Sep 1999 trekona@erols.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: trekona@erols.com
> 
> > -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
> 
> >  Excuuuuse meeee :-) While it may have *bits* of Beowolf (pun intended)
> > it is based on a *true* story.
>     uh, actually it's not based on a *true* story, it's based on a true 
> *story*, if you see the difference. Chrichton's _Eater's of the Dead_ is indeed 
> a story (that part is true), but from what I've heard, the movie is only 
> "based" on it and doesn't follow it very well. However, it's not exactly a 
> *true* story. The book was written very well in its attempt to combine just 
> enough bits of the *true* Ibn Fadlan account of the Rus with the story of 
> Beowulf to make it seem authentic. Yes, it is supposed to be Beowulf - Crichton 
> had made a bet whether anyone could write a book based on Beowulf and get it on 
> the best sellers list, so he did. The current movie version, "13th Warrior" has 
> undergone many test showings and many re-writes, and a few different names 
> (like "The Last Viking").
> 
> >  This came up on the very serious, academic Medieval middle east list. In the 
> > 10th century, the Caliph at Baghdad sent Ibn Fadlan as an envoy to the 
> > Bulgars.
>     The Rus, they were Swedish. Now he may also have gone to the Bulgars, I 
> don't know all his travels, but in this case he is known for his write-up on 
> the Rus.

He was sent to the Bulgars, didn't get there, ran into the Rus on the way.
> 
> >  In the tradition of many other Islamic travellers, he wrote it all down. 
> > Unfortunately, it has been translated into every language except English.
>     unfortunately true.
> 
> >   Somehow Crichton got ahold of the basic story and embellished
> > it (extensively) But he did such a good job, that at least one
> > scholar thought he had somehow found the missing part of Ibn Fadlan's
> > MS!!  
>     well, that's in part because Crichton made that claim.

The latest release of the book (renamed to match the movie for the tie in
sales) has at the very back an article by Crichton explaining why he wrote
the book and where he got things and such.  In that article he says the
first three chapters are from the genuine Ibn Fadlan's account, the
remainder is from Crichton's imagination.

> 
> >   I read Eaters of the Dead years ago and had forgotten it was a
> > Crichton story. So I'm looking forward to seeing the movie this
> > weekend. Is it any good at all??
>     A man from oldnorsenet wrote a review on it that was pretty scathing. He 
> mentioned (and here's the costume part of the message!) something about while 
> there weren't any horns on the helmets of the good guys (I guess there are on 
> the bad guys), he was sure he saw a Roman Gladitorial helmet on one of the 
> vikings, as well as a 16th cent Spanish helmet on another! The weapons were 
> wrong, the armor was wrong, and they spent most of the movie being drunk, 
> inarticulate, and vomiting. If you like *really* schlocky viking movies, and 

Gee, he must have been at a different movie than I was. The only vomiting
was by "Ibn Fadlan" after viewing a particularly gory sight. And they
spent most of the movie travelling or fighting. There was a lot of
drinking implied at the funeral feast but that would be expected.

> Animal House type of humour, you might like the movie. Personally, I'd rather 
> sew on a costume and put the money towards fabric.
> 
>     -Judy Mitchell

Peggy Stonnell

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 02:41:38 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 09:55:23 +0200
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Nina Marcks v W <nina.marcks@swipnet.se>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern Sale
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9909031554480.20611-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
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-Poster: Nina Marcks v W <nina.marcks@swipnet.se>

Hi,

What number are the Shakespear in Love one? I have tried I find the new
ones at Simplicitys homepage but failed. Simplicity patterns are not for
sale here in Sweden so I need to know the exact number and than ask someone
to buy them for me.

Which one should I get if I want an Elisabethan dress as good as possible.

Nina in Sweden



At 15:55 1999-09-03 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>
>Just thought I'd let y'all know...I went to Jo-Ann's today, and they're
>having a sale on all of their simplicity patterns.  Including the
>"Shakespeare in Love" one.  I got two at $1.99 each!
>
>Drea
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>






_____________________________________________________
Nina Marcks v W
Höganäsgatan 1 B
S-753 30 Uppsala

tel +46-(0)18 - 10 12 86
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 06:37:28 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 05:56:19 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Definitely, see Sixth Sense!!!!!

I know that this isn't the 'Movie Review' list, but I can't help myself! 
Sixth Sense is a very (to me, but I am easy) spooky movie that will have
you thinking about it days after.

Kathlene

----------
> From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint
> Date: Friday, September 03, 1999 9:13 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
> 
> trekona@erols.com wrote:
> > 
> ...
> > enough bits of the *true* Ibn Fadlan account of the Rus with the story
of
> > Beowulf to make it seem authentic. Yes, it is supposed to be Beowulf - 
> 
> Rats. Sounds like they practically ignore the Ibn Fadlan 
> connection. Which was the main reason I wanted to see it.
> There are so many good stories waiting to be made, why
> do they waste gazillions of $$$ on junk? (rhetorical question)
> 
> > inarticulate, and vomiting. If you like *really* schlocky viking
movies, and
> > Animal House type of humour, you might like the movie. Personally, I'd
rather
> > sew on a costume and put the money towards fabric.
> 
> Not normally, no. But this was going to be a "treat".
> Maybe we'll go see 6th Sense, instead.
> 
> sigh.
> 
> Susan
> 
> -- 
> susanf@netwiz.net
> http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 08:18:01 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 09:30:17 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/04/1999 1:11:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
izzie@vcn.bc.ca writes:

<< The latest release of the book (renamed to match the movie for the tie in
 sales) has at the very back an article by Crichton explaining why he wrote
 the book and where he got things and such.  In that article he says the
 first three chapters are from the genuine Ibn Fadlan's account, the
 remainder is from Crichton's imagination.
  >>
Also, when I read the book [years ago] in the into, Crichton relates how the 
book started on a bet he couldn't make Beowulf interesting to a modern 
audience. So it based on both.
Too bad someone didn't bet the film makers they could make it interesting.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 08:37:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 09:49:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Pattern Sale
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/4/99 7:55:36 AM !!!First Boot!!!, nina.marcks@swipnet.se 
writes:

<< Hi,
 
 What number are the Shakespear in Love one? I have tried I find the new
 ones at Simplicitys homepage but failed. Simplicity patterns are not for
 sale here in Sweden so I need to know the exact number and than ask someone
 to buy them for me.
 
 Which one should I get if I want an Elisabethan dress as good as possible.
 
 Nina in Sweden >>


The patern number for the Simplicity Shakespeare in Love Elizabethan dress is 
8881.  My Joanns fabric store didn't even have it put out yet...I went 
digging through boxes in the back to find it <grin> for 1.99 I would do that.

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 08:39:43 1999
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X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 4.5 (0410)
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 09:52:20 -0400
Subject: H-COST: Blade DVD
From: "Leta Hendricks" <hendricks.3@osu.edu>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Leta Hendricks" <hendricks.3@osu.edu>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3019283540_380397_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Howdy!


The new Wesley Snipes "Blade" movie/computer DVD is WONDERFUL!
 
This Warner - New Line Platinum DVD features: the film, audio commentary,
isolated score, alternate film  endings, vampire folklore, film production
highlights, and FOUR! featurettes.  In addition the "Blade" DVD computer
disk features: original screenplay, access to every screen shot within
screenplay, highlights from ComicCon '98, weblinks, and MORE (e.g., costume
design)!!
This marvel (pun intended) of technology is a great information resource for
costume artists, film historians, scholars of popular culture, and chip
heads.

Also, I have my G3 - DVD computer connected to my home entertainment system
--
The digital surround-sound (G3 + stereo sub-woofer) and pix image (G3 + RCA
connection to TV) blows me away.

A must experience

"The software box said Windows '98 or better, ... so I bought a MAC."  from
garage.com.

*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^
Leta Hendricks
Assistant Professor
Head, EHS Systems
EHS Library
The Ohio State University
110 Sullivant Hall
1813 Neil Avenue
Columbus, Ohio  43210

614.292.2075
hendricks.3@osu.edu
http://www.hec.ohio-state.edu/hendrick/index.htm
http://www.lib.ohio-state.edu/OSU_profile/ehsweb/



--MS_Mac_OE_3019283540_380397_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Blade DVD</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<FONT COLOR=3D"#800000"><TT>Howdy!<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
The new Wesley Snipes &quot;<FONT SIZE=3D"5"><I>Blade</I></FONT>&quot; movie/=
computer DVD is WONDERFUL!<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
This Warner - New Line Platinum DVD features: the film, audio commentary, i=
solated score, alternate film &nbsp;endings, vampire folklore, film producti=
on highlights, and FOUR! featurettes. &nbsp;In addition the <I>&quot;Blade</=
I>&quot; DVD computer disk features: original screenplay, access to every sc=
reen shot within screenplay, highlights from ComicCon '98, weblinks, and MOR=
E (e.g., costume design)!!<BR>
This marvel (pun intended) of technology is a great information resource fo=
r costume artists, film historians, scholars of popular culture, and chip he=
ads.<BR>
<BR>
Also, I have my G3 - DVD computer connected to my home entertainment system=
 --<BR>
The digital surround-sound (G3 + stereo sub-woofer) and pix image (G3 + RCA=
 connection to TV) blows me <FONT SIZE=3D"7">away.<BR>
</FONT><BR>
A must experience<BR>
<BR>
&quot;The software box said Windows '98 or better, ... so I bought a MAC.&q=
uot; &nbsp;from garage.com.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
</TT></FONT>*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^<BR>
Leta Hendricks<BR>
Assistant Professor<BR>
Head, EHS Systems<BR>
EHS Library<BR>
The Ohio State University<BR>
110 Sullivant Hall<BR>
1813 Neil Avenue<BR>
Columbus, Ohio &nbsp;43210<BR>
<BR>
614.292.2075<BR>
hendricks.3@osu.edu<BR>
http://www.hec.ohio-state.edu/hendrick/index.htm<BR>
http://www.lib.ohio-state.edu/OSU_profile/ehsweb/<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3019283540_380397_MIME_Part--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 08:59:04 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 10:10:46 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/04/1999 9:53:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
hendricks.3@osu.edu writes:

<< The new Wesley Snipes "Blade" movie/computer DVD is WONDERFUL! >>

And this [stupid, "not more of this"] movie has WHAT to do with H-costume?

I certainly don't mind talking movies here if there is some costume related 
reason...but Blade??
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 09:35:04 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 10:47:29 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
From: "Leta Hendricks" <hendricks.3@osu.edu>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Leta Hendricks" <hendricks.3@osu.edu>

I, as an African-American, educator, librarian, and technologist, find the
"Blade" DVD  a  valuable resource for studying costume design in modern film
genres, and developing multimedia rom products for teaching and instruction.


"Blade," is one of the first multimedia DVD products.   This DVD multimedia
package offers more than entertainmnet  -- information on film costume
design  and related subjects are presented on the disk.  If this DVD is a
huge commercial success,  more multimedia DVDs  will be developed for
entertainment, education, and (hopefully)  costume study use.


Also, please define <<<And this [stupid, "not more of this"] movie>>>


ASANTE/PEACE

----------
>From: AlbertCat@aol.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
>Date: Sat, Sep 4, 1999, 10:10 AM
>

>
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 09/04/1999 9:53:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> hendricks.3@osu.edu writes:
>
> << The new Wesley Snipes "Blade" movie/computer DVD is WONDERFUL! >>
>
> And this [stupid, "not more of this"] movie has WHAT to do with H-costume?
>
> I certainly don't mind talking movies here if there is some costume related
> reason...but Blade??
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 09:44:09 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 10:58:39 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>I, as an African-American, educator, librarian, and technologist, find the
>"Blade" DVD  a  valuable resource for studying costume design in modern
film
>genres, and developing multimedia rom products for teaching and
instruction.


Cool (I hope more movies put out multimedia DVDs with costume info in the
future), but I suspect the objection is in the fact that "Blade" isn't a
"historical" film, and so really isn't the main interest of this list,
although that could have been stated better.  We do talk about film
costuming a fair bit, but it's almost always in connection to a movie that's
set sometime in the past.

Susan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 10:26:38 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: hair stull
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 10:33:44 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

here is an article about a hairdresser and how she finds things in places
like home depot to fix up long hair!

http://www.sltrib.com/96/FEB/04/tbz/04431571.htm

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 10:57:21 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: three french ladies
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

Myself and two friends will be dressing alike at our next 12th night. We are
going to be French. The hoop skirt that once was online that I want to make
is no longer there. The ones we want to make are the side hoops, the ones
that are in two pieces and tied on at the waist.

Does anyone know what I am talking about? I need the periods they were used
and some reference material. I have books but just do not know where to
start as they seem to jump periods quite a bit with the same design. Help!

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 11:29:21 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 12:41:43 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
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-Poster: ErrickII@aol.com

In a message dated 9/4/99 10:16:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

> n a message dated 09/04/1999 9:53:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>  hendricks.3@osu.edu writes:
>  
>  << The new Wesley Snipes "Blade" movie/computer DVD is WONDERFUL! >>
>  
>  And this [stupid, "not more of this"] movie has WHAT to do with H-costume?
>  
>  I certainly don't mind talking movies here if there is some costume 
related 
>  reason...but Blade??

Lets see....Movies different flavors for different folks. Hollywood costume 
designer of the world. Movies source of costume design, historical or not. 
New technology, DVD stop action for costume design study. 

I can't sew very well, didn't care for the movie, but I still find this group 
useful and fun.

I see a reasonable reason for that post. But that's only my .02 worth.

Errick
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 14:40:21 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: three french ladies
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/4/1999 09:10:44 Pacific Daylight Time, ches@io.com 
writes:

<< The hoop skirt that once was online that I want to make
 is no longer there. The ones we want to make are the side hoops, the ones
 that are in two pieces and tied on at the waist.>>

+++I'm fairly certain you're speaking of "paniers, or panniers"   They were 
used in 18th century French court dress.  They began as a "stiff underskirt 
fitted with more or less circular (or dome- or cupola-shaped) boned hoops, 
worn under the robe volante.  It was then divided and took the form of oblong 
paniers, spreading the fulness of court gowns on either side of the hips."  
Boucher +++++
 
 Does anyone know what I am talking about? I need the periods they were used
 and some reference material. I have books but just do not know where to
 start as they seem to jump periods quite a bit with the same design. Help! >>

If this is indeed, the hoop skirts of which you speak, then you can find them 
in ref books on 18th century France, for sure.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"As in a theater, the eyes of men, 
after a well-graced actor leaves the stage, 
are idly bent on him that enters next, 
thinking his prattle to be tedious."
Richard II;  V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 14:42:16 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Sep 1999 15:01:13 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eurocentric complaint (OT?)
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Is it possible that, if indeed Crichton did base his material at 
least in part on Ibn Fadlan's record (I'm neither saying he did or
did not - I haven't studied it in any depth), and the movie is then
based, in part, on that book, the perceptions of the Rus are not 
intended to portray an accurate perception of the Rus, but rather a
(at least) third hand interpretation from a "civilized" Moslem dealing
with strange barbarians?  Is it not surprising then that the details
are flagrantly wrong (after all, why shouldn't they be)?

Personally, I think that expecting "accuracy" in the cinema is like
expecting politicians to be honest (it's not when it happens and should
be encouraged at all costs, but it's a little naive to assume it's the 
standard).  These people are *storytellers*, not historians.  If they 
need to change something to get a particular effect in the story, they 
are going to.

(If anyone objects to these opinions, please discuss it with me off-list)
Marc Carlson
marc-carlson@utulsa.edu

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep  4 19:12:34 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 20:24:53 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: three french ladies
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/4/99 10:11:23 AM Mountain Daylight Time, ches@io.com 
writes:

<< Does anyone know what I am talking about? I need the periods they were used
 and some reference material. I have books but just do not know where to
 start as they seem to jump periods quite a bit with the same design. Help!
  >>
They're called "panniers".  Corsets and Crinolines has a very easy pattern.  
I've always used spring steel to hold them out.  BTW  I am a new subscriber 
to this list.  My name is Cheryl Odom. I am a costume designer with an 
interest in social history and historic garments.  I was on this list several 
years ago and then the address changes.  Just found you again!
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 23:56:04 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/04/1999 10:57:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
nicolaa@columbus.rr.com writes:

<< "Blade" DVD  a  valuable resource for studying costume design in modern
 film
 >genres, and developing multimedia rom products for teaching and
 instruction.
 
 
 Cool (I hope more movies put out multimedia DVDs with costume info in the
 future), but I suspect the objection is in the fact that "Blade" isn't a
 "historical" film, >>


Hmmmm
I simply just don't remember anything in the film "Blade" that was definitive 
or even innovative or original for that matter. I found it purely imitative 
....a bunch of bites from other "vampires among us"/ "tough guys in leather" 
film. Films like "Blade Runner" [ironic, huh?] or "Dark City" are more 
instructive as far as costume design....for dark futuristic films... than 
"Blade". [imho, of course] How about "Brazil"? Ok...all three have historical 
"roots" I suppose. How about "5th Element" or "The Cook, The Thief, His Wife 
& Her Lover" for contemporary designs? I just don't see "Blade" as 
informative costume wise as these others.
If it's the "behind the scenes" feature of the DVD that appeals to you, be 
warned...they're not so very accurate and are conceived as commercials for 
the film.

But, please, don't be upset just because I didn't like "Blade".
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 23:57:20 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Blade DVD
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/04/1999 12:43:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ErrickII@aol.com writes:

<< 
 Lets see...Movies different flavors for different folks. Hollywood costume 
 designer of the world. Movies source of costume design, historical or not. 
 New technology, DVD stop action for costume design study. 
 
 I can't sew very well, didn't care for the movie, but I still find this 
group 
 useful and fun.
 
 I see a reasonable reason for that post. But that's only my .02 worth.
  >>

All this I can agree with.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 09:37:43 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: 18th c. quilted petticoats
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 1999 07:49:33 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

I want to make one of these.  I have a really nice rosy taupe glazed cotton 
that would be nice for the outer shell, and plan to underline it with 
lightweight wool.  I only know a couple of people who have actually made 
quilted petticoats, and only one who did it entirely by hand.  Of course, 
now I have lost contact with all of these people so I can't go back and ask 
them for pointers.  I remember the one who did it by hand started out with 
wide spaces between the quilting so she could start wearing it, and as she 
had time, would sit down and keep quilting more bands and rows closer 
together so eventually it was quite closely patterned.  When I saw it, it 
was gorgeous and she only had a portion of the back (under her outer gown, 
and not seen) to finish.
I have not had the opportunity to examine an original, and would like to 
know if it would be more advisable to leave the woolen underlining as is or 
actually sandwich it between the outer shell and an inner lining of glazed 
linen.  Anyone have any input?

Regards,
Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 10:07:14 1999
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Date: Sun, 5 Sep 1999 11:19:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 18th c. quilted petticoats
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

In a message dated 9/5/99 10:52:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
oh_susannah@hotmail.com writes:

<< I have not had the opportunity to examine an original, and would like to 
 know if it would be more advisable to leave the woolen underlining as is or 
 actually sandwich it between the outer shell and an inner lining of glazed 
 linen. >>

Susannah,

18th century quilted petticoats had 3 layers just like quilts as the batting 
was not as stable as today's battings can be. On the originals, the outer 
fabric ranged from china silk (did a reproduction of this one from the 
Colonial Williamsburg collection) to callimanco (modern polished cottons are 
a good imitation of this 18th century glazed wool) to wool satin. The batting 
was fairly thin and the backings were often shalloon (cheap glazed linen used 
for linings) or other cheaper fabrics with loose weave. 

Try a sample of the polished cotton to see that you can actually quilt 
through it -- some have such a high finish that it is difficult to get the 
needle through it! 

As to size, there was generally 4x waist measurement in petticoats. (If waist 
is 25", there is 100" in the skirt.) To minimize the bulk around the waist, 
some originals have an unquilted area of about 3" from the waistband.

Have fun -- it's a great project.

Sally

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 12:13:01 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Michelle & Elizabethan corsets
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 1999 10:32:15 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

I have been using  Friendly email.  I have had problems with them.  I can't
view any attachments. When I have used the system on-line I get booted out
while trying to compose messages, etc.   I always download to my computer
using the Express so the problems in the past hadn't bothered me. I  just
avoided them. This, however is a big problem. I had checked my mail 3 times
in 24 hours, waiting for her response to my cry for help. At one point I had
25 emails.  It was by no means full.
    Can someone please refer me to an email server that works?!?
           Michelle

->-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Sorry for the waste of bandwidth, folks, but this lady is on a heavy
>deadline ands sounds desperate.
>
>Michelle:  check your mailbox!  I keep sending you the corset/bodice help,
>and it's bouncing back with a "mailbox disk full" message.
>
>Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 15:18:37 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: New and Improved website
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 1999 13:31:49 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

I am pleased to announce that I have FINALLY gotten around to revamping my
website.  It is up and running (except for a few "under construction" parts)
and I have actually started working on my "jumpdress" again.  You can see
updates of this at:

http://www.softcom.net/users/unicorn/jmpdress.htm

My website including "Gallery of Garb" and "How to Make A Victorian Corset"
is at:

http://www.softcom.net/users/unicorn/index.html


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 15:29:55 1999
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Okay, so it's never going to be finished to my satisfaction, but I couldn't 
stand not sharing any longer, particularly after spending some time drooling 
at the goodies on Margo's site.  Huzzah to her!

Let me know if any links are broken or something really grabs you either way.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Let me take you a buttonhole lower."
Love's Labours Lost, V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 15:31:37 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Sep 1999 13:44:02 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Hearsay and other tripe
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Perhaps some of you have seen a newspaper writeup about an event at which
you were present, or that you know about from the inside, and you realize
how distorted and downright untrue the news coverage is.  It's also that
inaccurate on the subjects you don't know about, of course, but that is
harder to recognize.

That's how I feel about the recent posts on 13th Warrior.  Little or no
substance, lots of irrelevant slander.  I don't really care what anyone
says about a movie (since I haven't worked on any myself) but the comments
about this film make me question a lot of the other things I read on this
list.  If someone who hasn't even seen the movie feels comfortable
reporting it as drunken, vomiting Viking schlock, then I really don't want
to waste my attention on that person's comments about historical costuming!  

I see this kind of film as a great conversation-maker among costumers.
(Extra points to everyone who recognized the gladiator's helmet!)  Sorting
out the silly bits (like plate armor) from the reasonable pieces is a good
exercise to hone our own memories and skills.  When inappropriate pieces
are used in a movie like Elizabeth R, it's quite different from a
hodgepodge of armor pieces used in what is clearly a fantasy movie.  (And
oh, don't I wish they'd had a continuity person in 13th Warrior!  That sort
of inaccuracy is even harder on me than the Tartars with spears... Spears!
Hah!)  On the other hand, if you didn't like this movie, it's entirely safe
to just shut up about it.  History remains intact and unviolated.

My point is that it's just silly and mean-spirited to pick apart a film for
its historical inaccuracy when there was no historical accuracy intended or
attempted!  However there is a wealth of ideas in it and things that
worked, or almost worked, or didn't work, that were done on a vivid and
intense scale.  There was a particular jewelry piece made by an
acquaintance of mine that I watched for and didn't see until my third
viewing of the film.  By then, believe me, I had made pretty accurate
observations of most of the costuming.  There was a lot of clothing that
worked very well.  Just the fact that people got dirty and stayed dirty was
a massive improvement over much of what we see!

Grumbly today,
Leslie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 17:01:07 1999
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From: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>
Subject: H-COST: early 18thc waistcoat
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>

Dear List,

	I've run into a wee bit of a snag I wondered if any of you would be
willing to assist me with? I'm launching into a new project for my
embroidery frame, an early 18th century waistcoat, which will have an
embroidered motif based upon one designed by Charles Germain St. Aubin for
the occassion of the marriage of the Dauphin. It's a very exciting project,
in that the design will all be fronds of gold bullion with delicate sprays
of berries in shaded rose-colours and russets, all of this done on a
gorgeous piece of royal blue saracenet (heavy silk twill) lined with royal
blue striped silk jacquard.

	The embroidery is not my problem. It's the stupid pattern I'm
working with! :-) And here is where I wondered if any you would be able to
shed some light on the subject?

	It is a Harriet's TCS pattern with which I'm working, not the
greatest as far as explanations go. I'm just fiddling up the muslin and lo,
vague instructions and odd bits on the pattern.

	To be specific: I can find no documentation for patch pockets
during that period. I've visited the Museum of Costume's website. Nothing
with patch pockets. I've looked through my limited books. Nothing. Do any
of you have reference for patch pockets during this period?

	My other difficulty is the side seams. Harriet has a small
extension on the lower part of her side seam (which extends properly toward
the back, not directly under the arm) which would lead one to believe this
is perhaps for a miniscule box pleat. However, the extension is so small as
to be useless. No problem. I could draft it larger. But, again, my problem
is lack of documentation. I can find no visible examples of the sideseams
of this style of waistcoat, and so I am unsure about going ahead and making
the pleat.

	As well, I had always been under the assumption, likely mistakenly,
this style of waistcoat had a back vent. Once more it seems all drawings
and photos show the front, but not the sides or backs. Argh. Is this
something any of you would know?

Lorina Stephens

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage,
period furniture & fine hand-sewn garments ~ e-mail: lgsteph@golden.net  ~
website: http://www.historicmerchants.com/fiverivers


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep  5 20:05:06 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Sep 1999 21:19:51 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Rebecca Voris <rvoris@mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: looking for cheap cotton solids
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-Poster: Rebecca Voris <rvoris@mailandnews.com>

At 09:09 AM 8/26/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Since my favorite fabric merchant wasn't at Pennsic, I'm now looking
>for a source of very cheap 100% cotton in solid basic colors like
>white, red, green, yellow, blue, etc.  I'm used to paying $1-2/yd, but
>that may not be possible.  Any help you can give me would be greatly
>appreciated!

1. Watch the sales at Jo-Anns. They frequently have cotton at $2/yd.

2. Check out SewFisticated Fabrics, in Twin City Plaza near Lechemere.
$2-ish a yard is their regular price for all-cotton solids.

3. Get it wholesale at American Quilting Supply in Pembroke (where the
Waytes get their fabric for the livery). Off-the-bolt solids are in the
$2-ish range, but you must buy at least 10 yards. Or you can buy a bag of
remnants, each one 5-11 yards, six to ten pieces in each bag, at $1.50/yd.
Tell them you're from the Barony of Carolingia. Since we've already bought
from them, you don't have to worry about the initial minimum purchase.
--
Godith Anyon
Carolingia
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: early 18thc waistcoat
Date: Sun, 05 Sep 1999 18:48:23 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Lorina,
First, I must compliment you on your website.  Lovely work!

We, too, having researched extensively, have been unable to find an even 
half-way decent waistcoat pattern available on the market.  This includes 
the JP Ryan pattern, and numerous others.  The shoulders NEVER fit correctly 
(too square) and the bodies are usually MUCH too baggy in the chest & hip 
areas, and do not give the proper 18th century "pigeon-breasted" silhouette, 
having been drafted to fit more of the "modern" square-shouldered figure.  
We therefore, when undertaking to make a mid-18th c. waistcoat, have chosen 
to do one of two things:

1.  use the pattern in Cut of Men's Clothing of a waistcoat worn by Thomas 
Worsley, c. 1770 or so.  This drafts nicely on graph paper to about a modern 
chest 40 (American).

2.  we have drafted smaller and larger sizes, based on a pattern of our own 
design, firmy based on not only the above but on examination of originals.

In no case have we ever seen, or heard of, patch pockets either on the 
inside or outside of any men's waistcoat before 1840, and I am not sure they 
would be appropriate after that, either... that's just the limit of my 
knowledge on the subject.

We also do not exactly follow the pleated section at the (back) side seam 
you referred to.  Usually waistcoats of this period do not have pleats, but 
rather vents, usually one on either side of the center back vent (you are 
correct in your statement that this should be there.  You could easily add 
one.)...  Is it possible that the forepart just overlays the back sections, 
and is not actually pleated?  This would follow most waistcoats of the era 
that we have studied.  I would hesitate to draft any part larger to 
accomodate the alleged pleats unless you are certain that this would have 
been more correct.

I would highly suggest examining the shape of the pattern mentioned above in 
the Cut of Men's Clothes, by Norah Waugh, available on ILL and thru Amazon, 
for a good pattern to start with.  You may either draft it out on graph 
paper, or change Harriet's pattern shapes to coincide with what you see.  
But you seem an intellegent and highly capable person (your lovely 
embroidery projects would certainly bear testament to that!), and I am sure 
you would do fine with a graphed pattern.  The results would really be most 
correct.

Please let me know if I can be of any help.

Regards,
Susannah



>
>-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>
>
>Dear List,
>
>	I've run into a wee bit of a snag ... an early 18th century waistcoat, 
>which will have an
>embroidered...
>
>It's the stupid pattern I'm
>working with! :-) And here is where I wondered if any you would be able to
>shed some light on the subject?
>
>	It is a Harriet's TCS pattern... 	To be specific: I can find no 
>documentation for patch pockets
>during that period. Do any
>of you have reference for patch pockets during this period?
>
>	My other difficulty is the side seams. Harriet has a small
>extension on the lower part of her side seam (which extends properly toward
>the back, not directly under the arm) which would lead one to believe this
>is perhaps for a miniscule box pleat. However, the extension is so small as
>to be useless.

>	As well, I had always been under the assumption, likely mistakenly,
>this style of waistcoat had a back vent. Once more it seems all drawings
>and photos show the front, but not the sides or backs. Argh. Is this
>something any of you would know?
>
>Lorina Stephens
>

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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Date: Sun, 5 Sep 1999 23:17:39 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: early 18thc waistcoat
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/05/1999 6:17:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lgsteph@golden.net writes:

<< I can find no documentation for patch pockets
 during that period. >>

I've never seen them in a waistcoat. Indeed, the pocket flap's purpose is to 
cover the pocket "mouth"....the open whole that is ...when I do 
them...straight on top and curved on the bottom.....like a mouth.

<<My other difficulty is the side seams. Harriet has a small
extension on the lower part of her side seam (which extends properly toward
the back, not directly under the arm) which would lead one to believe this
is perhaps for a miniscule box pleat.>>

I've never seen this either. Usually the side seams of the waist coat are 
only sewn to a few inches below the waist....kinda like the coat. Perhaps you 
are to stop there & the little extra is just finished with the lining....like 
a little undrelap or something.

<<As well, I had always been under the assumption, likely mistakenly,
this style of waistcoat had a back vent.>>

Early waistcoats have long backs, as long as the fronts, which can come to 
the knee. As I said above, they are only sewn to a few inches below the 
waist. This is true of a CB seam too. Some waistcoats have backs that are 
shorter than the fronts but I think this is a later development.

Early waistcoats are indeed very like coats. Many have [lace in] sleeves with 
embroidered cuffs a little smaller than the coat cuffs. They are often turned 
up over the coat cuffs. This is often misinterpreted in theatre as a coat 
with cuffs that match the waistcoat...but it's really the cuffs OF the 
waistcoat.

I'm no historian but this has been my experience making 18th cen. men's 
things.
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

I get the digest, so I haven't seen any messages yet since I posted earlier
today.  However, I expect some list members may be justifiably annoyed with
me.  As I look back at what I wrote, what I then thought was a bit grumpy
now appears quite rude.

What I MEANT to say was that hearsay isn't a good basis for conversation,
especially on a list like this which concerns itself with trying to sort
out fact from fiction.  What I DID say was much more direct than that; I
ask the original poster on this topic, particularly, not to take it as a
personal insult.

I really mustn't post when my arthritic hip is screaming loudly at me.

Back to the ibuprofen bottle now,

Leslie


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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Leslie Helms wrote:
> 
...
> That's how I feel about the recent posts on 13th Warrior.  Little or no
> substance, lots of irrelevant slander.  I don't really care what anyone

Well, I went to see it myself with my wannabe film-maker son.
We really enjoyed it! Once you accept it as fantasy, the rest
doesn't matter!

> (Extra points to everyone who recognized the gladiator's helmet!)

Me, me! And conquistador helmet/armor?? Don't know much about
armor. I did groan when I.F. managed to fashion a scimitar out of
a viking blade! Don't know much about Viking clothing either
-- shirts, pants, cloaks looked ok, except for the plaid scarf
on the guy with the Scots accent!

Antonio's outfit was all wrong of course, looked like they
re-cycled Omar Sharif's outfit fror Lawrence of Arabia, or
maybe "the Sheik", i.e. Bedouin. Not 10th c. poet/scholar
urban dweller. 

> of inaccuracy is even harder on me than the Tartars with spears...

Good point. Should've been bows and arrows.

Let's see, what other booboos... I was surprised to learn
that redwoods grow in Scandinavia (kept expecting Ewoks to
pop out of the woods), and at one point I.F. comments on
the long summer evenings, when just a bit earlier, it had
been pouring down rain and seemed cold.

And the gore was not unbearable. Obviously violence was 
necessary, as it was a battle between good and evil!

It was a ripping good, swashbucking yarn and worth
seeing just for fun. 

Susan

(After the movie I went next door to buy 2 of the Queen
Amidala dolls. I didn't even know they were available,
didn't anyone on the list mention them?? Not the $60
"collector's edition", just the regular ones.)

-- 
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Susan Fatemi wrote:

> Antonio's outfit was all wrong of course, looked like they
> re-cycled Omar Sharif's outfit fror Lawrence of Arabia, or
> maybe "the Sheik", i.e. Bedouin. Not 10th c. poet/scholar
> urban dweller.

Forgot to mention, Antonio's shirt had a zillion cute little
buttons on it (nobody was using buttons in the 10th c, right?)
And his jacket looked like late Ottoman, heavily embroidered
and beaded. 
   Still liked it!

Susan  

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Has anyone seen the corset and bodice making videos advertised on this page:
: http://www.augproductions.com

or know who was involved with them? The name given is "Fashions through
History".

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 17:01:40 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 13th warrior [OT]
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/06/1999 2:37:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
susanf@netwiz.net writes:

<<  Once you accept it as fantasy, the rest
 doesn't matter! >>

The irony is that one of the book's purposes was to interject reality into 
the myth of Beowulf. Now the film ignores reality & history to make it a 
mythic action flick....and we've come full circle [except Beowulf has more 
value culturally, yes'
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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 17:05:39 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: corset and bodice videos
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/06/1999 2:46:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< http://www.augproductions.com >>

Cool! Except I don't like the corset or bodice pictured.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 16:21:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 17:33:59 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 13th warrior
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-Poster: ErrickII@aol.com

In a message dated 9/6/99 2:39:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, susanf@netwiz.net 
writes:

> Well, I went to see it myself with my wannabe film-maker son.
>  We really enjoyed it! Once you accept it as fantasy, the rest
>  doesn't matter!
>  
>  > (Extra points to everyone who recognized the gladiator's helmet!)

Point!

Historical not....Fun Yes.

I even enjoyed finding errors.

Errick
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 16:40:08 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

A few weeks ago i finally saw a booklet i'd heard about. It was written by
a (former?) SCA member in the 1980's, IIRC, who criticized many of Arnold's
costume drafts. The book is based on his practical experience, he made
pieces by her directions then by his corrected method. The book includes
extensive commentary, photographs and diagrams. The title is escaping me at
the moment.

I'd really like a copy. But it was one of those self-published,
plastic-spiral bound thingies sold at SCA events. The author lived in St.
Louis MO, i think.

Any hints, clues, copies for sale, possible trades?

Thanks

Lilinah, SCA'ly known as Anahita


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 17:51:40 1999
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From: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: early 18thc waistcoat
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>

Dear Susannah, et al,

	Many thanks for the information. I've since today found a little
more primary source documentation to support my suspicions and yours, and
spent the day drafting my own pattern and now have the left front
embroidery pattern transfered. I'm so excited I'm twitching, but one needs
be sensible. :-)

	I am indeed allowing the side extension to become a vent. And have
modified for a back vent as well. Found no evidence of patch pockets so
trashed Harriet's concept and went with the welt and flap.

	For any considering sewing patterns, I would hestitate to recommend
the Harriet's long waistcoat pattern. The cover line drawing indicates a
waistcoat c1740, when in fact on the pattern she indicates 1760. Completely
different style. And you've already heard the other problems.

	Like many of you, seems drafting your own is the only way to go.

	However, there are two other long 18th c. waistcoat patterns
available, which are allegedly very good: Tailor's Guide and Pegee of
Williamsburg. I intend working with each before year end in order to attest
to their accuracy when I offer mailorder historical sewing patterns for the
general public.

	Again, many thanks for the assistance.

regards
Lorina Stephens

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage,
period furniture & fine hand-sewn garments ~ e-mail: lgsteph@golden.net  ~
website: http://www.historicmerchants.com/fiverivers


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 18:53:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 20:04:47 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: early 18thc waistcoat
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/06/1999 7:06:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lgsteph@golden.net writes:

<< and went with the welt and flap. >>

Do they do that? I mean what we think of as a conventional welt & flap. On 
18th century things I have always just made the open "mouth" in the front 
pieces, made the flap up as a separate thingie, then stab stitched it over 
mouth. The flap is not set into the top of the mouth, and the mouth does not 
have a welt but is finished with the pocket bag.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 20:00:56 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: early 18thc waistcoat
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Albert and all --

Yes, you are correct, the pocket opening is generally curved opening and the 
pocket flap is attached over the opening, stab stitched to the body of the 
waistcoat. A slight curve to the flap, not stitched straight across is the 
period aesthetics. I am looking at  waistcoat, circa 1700 - 1720 from Royal 
Ontario Museums (featured in January 2000 calendar, Historic Fashions Turning 
the Centuries). Sleeved waistcoat, quilted linen, embrodiered with silk and 
metallic threads, 22 buttons from neck to hem. The side view shows the 
"smiley" pocket flap beautifully. 

Primary sources always help get the details correct...

Sally

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 21:23:47 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 19:36:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: re:cheap cotton solids
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <carolineri@yahoo.com>

I don't know if they have these stores where you live, but I noticed
Hobby Lobby was advertising 100% cotton broadcloth for $2.25 a yard, in
many colors. They also have the usual patterns, if your local fabric
store happens to be out of stock.
Carol Mitchell
===
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep  6 23:09:43 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 00:25:36 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Rebecca Voris <rvoris@mailandnews.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: looking for cheap cotton solids
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-Poster: Rebecca Voris <rvoris@mailandnews.com>

At 09:19 PM 9/5/99 -0400, I wrote a message in reply to someone I know who
had asked on h-costume about cheap cotton. I distinctly recall checking the
To: field, and seeing that the message was set to go to my friend. I seem
to have neglected to check to CC: field, however, for I see it has ended up
on the list. This would be all right, if somewhat confusing for non-locals,
except I included:

>3. Get it wholesale at American Quilting Supply in Pembroke (where the
>Waytes get their fabric for the livery). Off-the-bolt solids are in the
>$2-ish range, but you must buy at least 10 yards. Or you can buy a bag of
>remnants, each one 5-11 yards, six to ten pieces in each bag, at $1.50/yd.
>Tell them you're from the Barony of Carolingia. Since we've already bought
>from them, you don't have to worry about the initial minimum purchase.

This offer was intended for a private individual, not a general audience.

First, I apologize for my clumsiness in not setting my fields correctly.
Secondly, I apologize if I have confused or misled anyone.
--
Rebecca Voris
Boston, MA
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 02:17:14 1999
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From: "Joseph & Christine" <malruck@rma.edu>
To: "Historic Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fw: Brown donation cloth
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 03:23:44 -0400
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-Poster: "Joseph & Christine" <malruck@rma.edu>

Forwarded at the request of the author.  Please respond to her directly.

Thanks,

Joseph Ruckman
Christine L. Malson-Ruckman

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Cathy Johnson <graphicart@epsi.net>
To: <18cWoman@onelist.com>; revlist <revlist@onelist.com>
Sent: Monday, September 06, 1999 8:29 PM
Subject: [Revlist] Brown donation cloth


> From: graphicart@epsi.net (Cathy Johnson)
> 
> Dear esteemed lists,
> 
> Please pardon the cross-posting, but I know there are people on the
> 18th C woman list that are not on RevList.  There are a number of
> references to "brown donation cloth" being, obviously, perhaps, donated
> for trousers/breeches (?) for some of the Highland regiments after a
> period of time in the war.  Does anyone know what that might have been,
> or what the modern equivalent might be?  Linen, wool?  Tow?  Hemp?
> Anyone??
> 
> Thanking you in advance...
> 
> Regards,
> Kate
> graphicart@epsi.net
> Graphics/Fine Arts Press
> Journal of the Middle Waters Frontier
> 
> 
> --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
> 
> ONElist:  your connection to people who share your interests.
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> RevList - http://www.meridian.com/revlist/

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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: The History of Costume
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


I just bought Carl Koehler (sp?)'s "History of
Costume"... so far I like it, but can someone explain
to me about the diagrams?  What do the numbers stand
for... I assume that they are measurements, but in
what unit, etc?  Please help?

Sarah

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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 11:59:06 -0400
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Margo Anderson wrote:

"Has anyone seen the corset and bodice making videos advertised on this
page:
 http://www.augproductions.com"

I have not seen the videos themselves. But judging from the pictures, I
wonder about accuracy. Where are the shoulder straps on the Elizabethan
corset? I have made corsets like the one pictured, but always felt they
were more costume than proper clothing. Has anyone ever found
documentation for a corset/pair of bodies with no straps in the
16th-17th century timeframe? Not too much extant, but before I condemned
the picture for accuracy, I thought to doublecheck my own knowledge
base!

Thanks,

Liz Jones
ljones@us.oracle.com
Maestra Damiana Illaria d'Onde



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 11:56:46 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Looking For Commentary on Arnold...
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 10:06:37 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

The Annotated Arnold, but of course can't find my copy.   By (I think)
Howard Trump.
Drafting & Constructing a Simple Doublet & Trunkhose of the Spanish
Renaissance is by RW Trump.  I found my copy of that one.

Gia/Giacinta
-----Original Message-----
From: lilinah@grin.net <lilinah@grin.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, September 06, 1999 2:57 PM
Subject: H-COST: Looking For Commentary on Arnold...


>
>-Poster: lilinah@grin.net
>
>A few weeks ago i finally saw a booklet i'd heard about. It was written by
>a (former?) SCA member in the 1980's, IIRC, who criticized many of Arnold's
>costume drafts. The book is based on his practical experience, he made
>pieces by her directions then by his corrected method. The book includes
>extensive commentary, photographs and diagrams. The title is escaping me at
>the moment.
>
>I'd really like a copy. But it was one of those self-published,
>plastic-spiral bound thingies sold at SCA events. The author lived in St.
>Louis MO, i think.
>
>Any hints, clues, copies for sale, possible trades?
>
>Thanks
>
>Lilinah, SCA'ly known as Anahita
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 12:03:56 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Looking For Commentary on Arnold...
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Ah!

I wrote that I *thought* RW Trump did the Annotated Arnold, and in reading
the Introduction in the "Drafting & ...etc" that he says he wrote it.

BTW, the "Drafting & ...etc" is based upon the Tailors Pattern Book of Juan
de Alcega.

Gia/Giacinta


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 12:22:56 1999
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Could you all send me these titles with isbn numbers please? server hiccup
again, lost your emails, sigh. :(

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 12:53:59 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Videos
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:59 AM 09/07/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>"Has anyone seen the corset and bodice making videos advertised on this
>page:
> http://www.augproductions.com"
>
>I have not seen the videos themselves. But judging from the pictures, I
>wonder about accuracy. Where are the shoulder straps on the Elizabethan
>corset? I have made corsets like the one pictured, but always felt they
>were more costume than proper clothing.

Yes, I wondered about that too.  the strapless corset seems to be based on
the "Elizabethan costume book" whose writers, in a conversation some years
ago, made no bones (pun intended) about the fact that they extrapolated
backwards from the 18th century. 

 I think it's very likely that Elizabethan corsets were probably along the
lines of the one in Janet Arnold:  basically, a heavily boned bodice.  They
are more comfortable and the look better, because the shoulder straps pull
the breasts forward instead on flattening them into the underarm, and the
full back maintains a smoother line, rather than the upper back bulge that a
strapless corset can give.  

What I really don't understand are the strange tab/extensions at the waist,
with square cutouts between them.  Aren't they too widely spaced to perform
the usual function of tabs, i.e., transferring the pressure of the bones
from the waist to the hips? And wouldn't hips with any excess fleash at all
bulge out from between them in a really ugly and uncomfortable way? 

The bodice also seems to be cut much too long along the side seams, and the
pink satin ribbon trim doesn't impress me, either.

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 13:16:32 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Videos
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 18:21:29 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Message-ID: <37d8563e.130325681@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

Well, I did some poking about on the site, and they are shown as
having a  'Partners or vendors' relationship with AlterYears.

Going to the AlterYears website further leads me to beleive that these
are video demos of the construction of the AlterYears bodice and
corset patterns/kits.

THey are probably a side business from AlterYears, as thay have no
other products.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 13:20:56 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Videos
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 13:26:42 -0500
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Actually this is the corset you can order from Alter Years. Which if you go
to their vendors and partners link you will find there. So that is where
they got it I suspect.
Carol Ross

>Yes, I wondered about that too.  the strapless corset seems to be based on
>the "Elizabethan costume book" whose writers, in a conversation some years
>ago, made no bones (pun intended) about the fact that they extrapolated
>backwards from the 18th century.
>
> I think it's very likely that Elizabethan corsets were probably along the
>lines of the one in Janet Arnold:  basically, a heavily boned bodice.  They
>are more comfortable and the look better, because the shoulder straps pull
>the breasts forward instead on flattening them into the underarm, and the
>full back maintains a smoother line, rather than the upper back bulge that
a
>strapless corset can give.
>
>What I really don't understand are the strange tab/extensions at the waist,
>with square cutouts between them.  Aren't they too widely spaced to perform
>the usual function of tabs, i.e., transferring the pressure of the bones
>from the waist to the hips? And wouldn't hips with any excess fleash at all
>bulge out from between them in a really ugly and uncomfortable way?
>
>The bodice also seems to be cut much too long along the side seams, and the
>pink satin ribbon trim doesn't impress me, either.
>
>Margo Anderson
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: victorian manners book
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Can anyone recommend a book that not out of print that teaches young girls
about victorian manners?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 15:03:53 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.9909071440040.32411-100000@eris.io.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 16:14:57 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 3:40 PM
> -Poster: ches@io.com
>
> Can anyone recommend a book that not out of print that teaches young girls
> about victorian manners?
>
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
>

While not specifically for children "The Essential Handbook of Victorian
Etiquette" by Thomas Hill is a decent guide to the manners and mores of the
time but if you're looking for something more fun and appealing to a little
one (about ages 6 - 10 or so) "What Do You Say, Dear?"  and "What Do You Do,
Dear" by Sesyle Joslin, with illustrations by Maurice Sendak, are absolutely
adorable.  They're not "Victorian" per se, but they manage to include most
of the proper behaviours of the time.

Hope these help!
Kerrie    :-D

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 15:20:36 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 13:39:35 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

I saw a cute book. It was small and inexpensive. (only 10 dollars or so)  I
think it was called, "The Essential Guide to Victorian Etiquette."   It was
supposed to have been highlights of a book printed back then.
  Michelle
-----Original Message-----
From: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 12:43 PM
Subject: H-COST: victorian manners book


>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>Can anyone recommend a book that not out of print that teaches young girls
>about victorian manners?
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>ches@io.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 15:24:13 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 16:35:46 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

Oops!
Please forgive the multiple messages here.  After I hit 'send' I realised
that I should have mentioned one caveat in my endorsement of "What Do You
Say, Dear?".

The book was originally published sometime in the 1950's when "Cowboys and
Indians" was a common childhood game and toy guns didn't carry the deadly
implications that they do in these sad modern times.  The manners are
introduced to children through Sendak's fanciful drawings of imaginative
situations in which a child might find herself.  Most are charmingly silly,
but I do recall one that bothered me enough to omit it when I read the book
to my little boy.  In it a "wild west" bad guy questions the child with
"Would you like me to blow a hole in your head?"  Much too graphic for me
I'm afraid.  Luckily I don't remember any similar offenses in the sequel
book, or any more than that one in the original.

Off again!
Kerrie
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 4:14 PM

> -Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 3:40 PM
> > -Poster: ches@io.com
> >
> > Can anyone recommend a book that not out of print that teaches young
girls
> > about victorian manners?
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > F. Havas
> >
>
> While not specifically for children "The Essential Handbook of Victorian
> Etiquette" by Thomas Hill is a decent guide to the manners and mores of
the
> time but if you're looking for something more fun and appealing to a
little
> one (about ages 6 - 10 or so) "What Do You Say, Dear?"  and "What Do You
Do,
> Dear" by Sesyle Joslin, with illustrations by Maurice Sendak, are
absolutely
> adorable.  They're not "Victorian" per se, but they manage to include most
> of the proper behaviours of the time.
>
> Hope these help!
> Kerrie    :-D
>


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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 15:32:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 21:43:39 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

I have one which is for women and girls of marriagable age, rather than
young girls, but might help

It's a reproduction of "Manners for women" by Mrs Humphry, a general
manual for women, not only what we think of as manners, but also what to
wear, how to arrange a dinner party, etiquette when bicycling, how to
laugh prettily, all those things you need to know.  It is very late 19th
century, but it is just Victorian - there are various references to the
Queen, and the menu from the Duchess of York's wedding breakfast, so
maybe you can date it from that.

This is produced by Pryor Publications, specialist in facsimile
reproductions.  ISBN 0 946014 71 5.  The publishers are at:
75 Dargate Road, Yorkletts, Whitstable, Kent, England, 
tel & fax +44 227 274655

Jean


In message <Pine.LNX.4.10.9909071440040.32411-100000@eris.io.com>,
ches@io.com writes
>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>Can anyone recommend a book that not out of print that teaches young girls
>about victorian manners?
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>ches@io.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
 _________________________________________________________________
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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Eleonora of Toledo
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 14:10:59 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BEF93A.CF793880
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http://www.southern.com/wm/paint/auth/bronzino/eleonora.jpg


   This dress was a topic of conversation a couple weeks ago on the =
SCA-Garb list.  I asked the list what they thought of the child's =
clothing at her right.  I got no response.  I then forwarded the message =
to H-Cost.  I got no response.  (Probably because of my wacky email =
server...)
    I thought I would try again.  The child seems to be wearing a simple =
tunic over a fancier edged chemise.  What does everyone think of that?
    As parents we may be working to hard to dress out kids.  If someone =
higher born is wearing a tunic, why don't more of us dress our kids this =
way?  It would be a lot easier to accumulate a few things for them to =
wear if it was something easier to make.=20
   MIchelle

------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BEF93A.CF793880
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><A=20
href=3D"http://www.southern.com/wm/paint/auth/bronzino/eleonora.jpg">http=
://www.southern.com/wm/paint/auth/bronzino/eleonora.jpg</A><BR></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;<FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; This dress was a topic =
of=20
conversation a couple weeks ago on the SCA-Garb list.&nbsp; I asked the =
list=20
what they thought of the child's clothing at her right.&nbsp; I got no=20
response.&nbsp; I then forwarded the message to H-Cost.&nbsp; I got no=20
response.&nbsp;</FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2> (Probably because =
of my wacky=20
email server...)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I thought I would =
try=20
again.&nbsp; The child seems to be wearing a simple tunic over a fancier =
edged=20
chemise.&nbsp; What does everyone think of that?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; As parents we may =
be working=20
to hard to dress out kids.&nbsp; If someone higher born is wearing a =
tunic, why=20
don't more of us dress our kids this way?&nbsp; It would be a lot easier =
to=20
accumulate a few things for them to wear if it was something easier to =
make.=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; =
MIchelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BEF93A.CF793880--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 15:55:28 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fw:      Re: Eleonora di Toledo Gown
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 14:14:23 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Here is what I forwarded before...is it formiliar to anyone?  I am wondering
to what extent my email service has failed.

-----Original Message-----
From: Michelle <mandrake@MYPAD.COM>
To: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Date: Friday, August 27, 1999 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: Eleonora di Toledo Gown


>>snip
>>>  This winter I'm hoping to make either a direct "replica" or a gown
>>> "inspired" by the gown worn by Eleonora da Toledo, Grand Duchess of
>>> Tuscany by Bronzino circa 1540s - the portrait can be seen at:
>>> http://www.southern.com/wm/paint/auth/bronzino/eleonora.jpg
>
>
>
>
>The child in the picture with Eleonora of Toledo looks to be wearing a
>simple T tunic and chemise with ruffled collar and neck.  (almost looks
like
>a polo shirt! ;)  )  I wanted to see what everyone thought of this.  I have
>learned fairly recently that children, of either sex, wore gowns like young
>ladies until they were of potty training age.  The pictures that I have
seen
>all apeared to be more elaborate and more fitted than this.
>   As fast as these kids grow, we could be doing ourselfs in, by trying to
>keep up with the new costumes.  It would be far easier to have some of
these
>and maybe one elaborate.  With the blend of Engish and Spanish dress, such
>as the partlet, I would think that we would see more of this type of dress.
>  Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wow!
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 14:23:05 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Ahhh, shucks! Auction is ended but, it never met the reserve.
      I had heard that one of the only costuming rental places here in town
(Fresno, CA) has gone out of business.  I wonder if their stuff will end up
on E Bay too.

>
>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
>I just have to share my awe and jealousy for a
>moment... here I am... supposed to be working, but I
>am playing on e-Bay instead... and I come across a
>company selling their entire costume collection...
>now, it is $200,000 and takes 3500 square feet of
>space, but I thought ya'll might just get the
>amusement out of looking that I did...
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=153740240
>
>Sarah
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 17:19:13 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/07/1999 4:37:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
vjlyons@snip.net writes:

<< n it a "wild west" bad guy questions the child with
 "Would you like me to blow a hole in your head?"  >>

Of course the proper Victorian reply is:

"Oh my goodness no! [curtsey] But thank you very much for asking."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 16:08:54 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wow!
In-Reply-To: <019301bef977$2d331720$80a7fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Actually, they are selling the costumes off one at a time from their
website. The Juliet costum for example is going for 250.00, I asked for
elizabethan underpinnings but they either did not understand the question
or they do not have any.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Tue, 7 Sep 1999, Michelle wrote:

> Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 14:23:05 -0700
> From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Wow!
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> Ahhh, shucks! Auction is ended but, it never met the reserve.
>       I had heard that one of the only costuming rental places here in town
> (Fresno, CA) has gone out of business.  I wonder if their stuff will end up
> on E Bay too.
> 
> >
> >-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >
> >I just have to share my awe and jealousy for a
> >moment... here I am... supposed to be working, but I
> >am playing on e-Bay instead... and I come across a
> >company selling their entire costume collection...
> >now, it is $200,000 and takes 3500 square feet of
> >space, but I thought ya'll might just get the
> >amusement out of looking that I did...
> >
> >http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=153740240
> >
> >Sarah
> >
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 16:15:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 17:26:45 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

><< n it a "wild west" bad guy questions the child with
> "Would you like me to blow a hole in your head?"  >>
>
>Of course the proper Victorian reply is:
>
>"Oh my goodness no! [curtsey] But thank you very much for asking."


<::snort::>  Not fair!  Now I have to wipe Diet Pepsi off my monitor!


Donna
__________________________________________________
Visit my web page!  http://www.dabbler.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 16:49:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 17:58:58 -0400
From: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: UK - Antique Costume & Textiles Fair
To: all <vintage@indra.com>
Cc: all <COSTUMEUK@onelist.com>, all <Victoriana@onelist.com>,
        all <h-costume@indra.com>, all <h-needlework@Ansteorra.org>
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-Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>

Hello all

Just to let you know that my next 'Antique Costume & Textiles Fair' is fast
approaching - Sunday 19th September in Manchester UK.

Once again, the Fair is 'sold out', with nearly 80 dealers from all over
the UK, and some from France and Belgium.

Bonhams auctioneers will be giving free textile valuations, and Pat
Earnshaw will be giving free lace valuations.

The Fan Circle International, Slipknot Guild and the Knitting & Crochet
Guild will also have information stands.

Once again - if you can't make it to the Fair, let me know if there is
anything you would like me to look for on your behalf.  If you are planning
to be there - don't forget to stop and say hello!

Margaret
antique costume & textiles
http://www.artizania.co.uk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 18:06:01 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>


>     I thought I would try again.  The child seems to be wearing a
> simple tunic over a fancier edged chemise.  What does everyone think
> of that?

I'm not so certain it's a tunic, although this is not my period.

Next to his hanging hand, the color of the surrounding area changes.  If
the kid had on a loosely fitted doublet over lighter pants, it would
explain the color change.

However, I think drawing conclusions from this picture might be
difficult.  The artist's attention was clearly on Eleonara and her
dress; the child is possibly a symbolic prop "look how motherly she is"
and in any case, it's not too surprising that the minute details of his
costume were not all drawn in (aside from those blackwork edges, which
set off his face and hands.)

cv
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From: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>
Subject: H-COST: 18thc waistcoats - Harriet's reply
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>

	Many thanks to all of you for the information. I thought you might
be interested to hear what the pattern-maker herself had to say on the
subject. My bits are in brackets.
---------------------------------------------------------------------

 (In your cutting and sewing instructions it
would appear you mean for the pockets to either be patch pockets,
or to be self lined. If it's the former, I can find no documentation to
support patch pockets. If it's the latter, the hand sewing will likely
show very slightly on the outside, or is that not a problem?)

Re: Pockets. My mistake; the pattern should read: (Cut 4). The inside of
the pocket opening is reinforced w/ linen, the opening cut & pockets
attached to the opening/flat edge of pocket. The pockets hang, once the 2
halves are sewn around. Then the flap is sewn on the outside. I have always
lined my waistcoats, so they were never seen. **You could cut the pocket on
a fold/top edge and then sew around the opening like a bound buttonhole or
an 18th C. vest. Not as authentic, though-just a shortcut.

       (My other difficulty is the side seams. There is
a small extension on the lower part of the side seam
which would lead one to believe this is perhaps for a
minuscule box pleat. Is this so, did you intend for it to be
larger, as at the moment it isn't much of a box pleat.)

This a small one-way pleat w/vent; since on this version there wasn't any
back vent or pleat.

 (As well, I had always been under the assumption, likely mistakenly,
this style of waistcoat had a back vent. Once more it seems all historical
drawings and photos available to me show the front, but not the sides or
backs. Argh. Is this something you would know?)

I have found another original that has side & a back opening. No pleats
etc., just a slash.
So, it's really what you're reproducing, as to how you finish it. Early in
the century; more full pleats w/openings. Mid century; less openings & just
plain slashes & that evolved into a combination of the small pleat with or
without all 3 openings. As with all styles, they come & go & then reappear
in a new form. It's up to you to determine which is best for the article
you're making.
---------------------------------------------------
Lorina Stephens

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage,
period furniture & fine hand-sewn garments ~ e-mail: lgsteph@golden.net  ~
website: http://www.historicmerchants.com/fiverivers


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 18:49:22 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1f487142.2506db51@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 19:59:29 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 5:19 PM
>
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 09/07/1999 4:37:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> vjlyons@snip.net writes:
>
> << n it a "wild west" bad guy questions the child with
>  "Would you like me to blow a hole in your head?"  >>
>
> Of course the proper Victorian reply is:
>
> "Oh my goodness no! [curtsey] But thank you very much for asking."
>

<chuckle> Actually...... that's quite close to the suggested reply in the
book. ;-)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 19:10:32 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eleonora of Toledo/child
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 07:14 PM 09/07/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>
>>     I thought I would try again.  The child seems to be wearing a
>> simple tunic over a fancier edged chemise.  What does everyone think
>> of that?
>
>I'm not so certain it's a tunic, although this is not my period.
>
>Next to his hanging hand, the color of the surrounding area changes.  If
>the kid had on a loosely fitted doublet over lighter pants, it would
>explain the color change.

I think it's more likely, given his apparent age, that it's a long coat-like
garment.  Boys were generally not breeched until five years old.  

For unbreeched boys, I generally go either with just a chemise, decorated or
not as station requires, or with a chemise  with a long coat/robe over it
for more warmth or formality. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 19:14:39 1999
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>     http://www.southern.com/wm/paint/auth/bronzino/eleonora.jpg
>      This dress was a topic of  conversation a couple weeks ago on the
>SCA-Garb list.  I asked the list  what they thought of the child's
>clothing at her right.  I got no  response.  I then forwarded the message
>to H-Cost.  I got no  response.  (Probably because of my wacky  email
>server...)     I thought I would try  again.  The child seems to be
>wearing a simple tunic over a fancier edged  chemise.  What does everyone
>think of that?  

Michelle, It is really hard to see the details of the child's costume from
that portrait, but from my research on small children's clothing, it is
more typical that children are wearing loose fitting robelike clothing in
the 16th c. Based on some Durer and other artists drawings of the time,
there are plenty of examples that show people dressed up for church, court
and special occasions, while normally dressing in much more functional
clothing. I believe this is true for children as well. There are a number
of German 16th c examples of children in short gowns (short white chemises)
with loose wrap around gowns, waffenrocks, and tunics over the top.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 19:23:22 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

 
> A few weeks ago i finally saw a booklet i'd heard about. It was written by
> a (former?) SCA member in the 1980's, IIRC, who criticized many of Arnold's
> costume drafts. The book is based on his practical experience, he made
> pieces by her directions then by his corrected method. The book includes
> extensive commentary, photographs and diagrams. The title is escaping me at
> the moment.
> 
> I'd really like a copy. But it was one of those self-published,
> plastic-spiral bound thingies sold at SCA events. The author lived in St.
> Louis MO, i think.

It's not in print. It's called The Annotated Arnold  by Robert Trump, 
aka Robert Sartor von Paybas (RSVP). He is one of the top costumers 
at the St. Louis Opera.

He didn't do it originally as a "criticism", so much as a way of 
making the book more useful. (That is until Ms. Arnold blasted him 
after he had sent her a courtesy copy.)

As to getting a copy of it, good luck. You'll probably have to keep 
an eye out or be very lucky with a friend.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

> From:          "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
> To:            <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject:       Re: H-COST: Looking For Commentary on Arnold...
> Date:          Tue, 7 Sep 1999 10:06:37 -0700
> Reply-to:      h-costume@indra.com

> 
> -Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
> 
> The Annotated Arnold, but of course can't find my copy.   By (I think)
> Howard Trump.
> Drafting & Constructing a Simple Doublet & Trunkhose of the Spanish
> Renaissance is by RW Trump.  I found my copy of that one.
> 
> Gia/Giacinta
> -----Original Message-----
> From: lilinah@grin.net <lilinah@grin.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Monday, September 06, 1999 2:57 PM
> Subject: H-COST: Looking For Commentary on Arnold...
> 
> 
> >
> >-Poster: lilinah@grin.net
> >
> >A few weeks ago i finally saw a booklet i'd heard about. It was written by
> >a (former?) SCA member in the 1980's, IIRC, who criticized many of Arnold's
> >costume drafts. The book is based on his practical experience, he made
> >pieces by her directions then by his corrected method. The book includes
> >extensive commentary, photographs and diagrams. The title is escaping me at
> >the moment.
> >
> >I'd really like a copy. But it was one of those self-published,
> >plastic-spiral bound thingies sold at SCA events. The author lived in St.
> >Louis MO, i think.
> >
> >Any hints, clues, copies for sale, possible trades?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Lilinah, SCA'ly known as Anahita
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> 
Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 20:16:38 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 21:26:19 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eleonora of Toledo
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com

In a message dated 9/7/1999 5:07:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
mandrake@mypad.com writes:

<<  The child seems to be wearing a simple tunic over a fancier edged 
chemise.  What does everyone think of that? >>

My viewing of the visual clues leads me to conclude it is not a tunic at all.

My speculation is that the child is wearing either a doublet with poofy sort 
of pants, or a gown just like the adult is wearing. It would depend on what 
sex the child is which would apply.

If I'm not mistaken, this hangs in the Detroit Institute of Art, as I seem to 
recall seeing in on a wall there.

Yours,

Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 20:56:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 22:08:31 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 18thc waistcoats - Harriet's reply
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/07/1999 7:32:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lgsteph@golden.net writes:

<< **You could cut the pocket on
 a fold/top edge and then sew around the opening like a bound buttonhole or
 an 18th C. vest. Not as authentic, though-just a shortcut. >>

If you cut the pocket on the fold, why do you then have to buttonhole stitch 
the opening? Can one not match up the place where the mouth should be on the 
folded pocket to where the pocket mouth should be on the fronts, sew them 
right sides together, then cut open the mouth and turn the whole to-be-folded 
pocket to the inside...THEN fold & stitch the pocket bag?

Or have I missed something? Did they not do this in the 18th century? Is this 
a sewing machine technique?
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

>  I think it's very likely that Elizabethan corsets were probably along the
> lines of the one in Janet Arnold:  basically, a heavily boned bodice.  They
> are more comfortable and the look better, because the shoulder straps pull
> the breasts forward instead on flattening them into the underarm, and the
> full back maintains a smoother line, rather than the upper back bulge that a
> strapless corset can give.  

	This addresses the exact thing I'm currently trying to figure out.
How do you keep the shoulder straps hidden when the neckline of the gown
is very wide?  I'm thinking about gowns such as the coral colored Tudor
worn by Elizabeth when she was a teen aged princess or the one in the
Pelican portrait.  When the top edge of the bodice stretches almost from
armpit to armpit was a strapless corset worn?  In those portraits, the
breasts do look more flattened than pulled forward.

lisa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 21:51:56 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 18thc waistcoats - Harriet's reply
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 20:03:23 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 09/07/1999 7:32:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>lgsteph@golden.net writes:
>
><< **You could cut the pocket on
>  a fold/top edge and then sew around the opening like a bound buttonhole 
>or
>  an 18th C. vest. Not as authentic, though-just a shortcut. >>
>
>If you cut the pocket on the fold, why do you then have to buttonhole 
>stitch
>the opening? Can one not match up the place where the mouth should be on 
>the
>folded pocket to where the pocket mouth should be on the fronts, sew them
>right sides together, then cut open the mouth and turn the whole 
>to-be-folded
>pocket to the inside...THEN fold & stitch the pocket bag?
>
>Or have I missed something? Did they not do this in the 18th century? Is 
>this
>a sewing machine technique?

Now I'm getting confused.  Our method, for each pocket, is to cut two 
half-moon-shaped pieces, but deeper than a real half-moon.  Not more than 
about 4" deep, though, for an average waistcoat pocket.  The top curve is 
less deep than the bottom curve, of course.  Looks something like the 
Cheshire cat's (or Garfield's) smile, but broader.  Stitch these two pieces 
together around the bottom curve, and you have a little bag.  Now, fold the 
top edges away from one another, about 1/4" to 3/8" (depending on how easily 
your fabric ravels & how thick it is), so you have a little bag with the top 
edges folded outwards.  Press them with your fingernails.
Slit the place on the waistcoat, from the outside, where your pocket will 
be.  It may be placed underneath an existing pocket flap, or you may sew one 
over it later.  Now, carefully push the edges of the slit to the inside, 
again pressing with your fingernails to make a crease.  If it's wool, you'll 
have to iron it or hold it carefully as you sew.  But, now it is very easy 
to slip the little pocket bag inside this slit, and handsew with tiny 
whipped stitches all around, enclosing the two folded edges against one 
another, inside (bag) to outside (slit body shell fabric).

Voila!  You've made an 18th c. pocket worthy of a museum piece.  This is the 
method we observed on two originals:  one in Charleston, SC and the other in 
the Museum of the Connecticut Historical Society.  So it may or may not have 
been universal... it is not exactly what we moderns think of as a "bound" 
pocket mouth, being that the edges are bound to each other, and not covered 
with a "binding".  The edges of the inside pocket bag may or may not show, 
depending on whether you press them to the complete inside of the pocket 
slit, or leave some of it to the outside.  One of the originals was 
carelessly folded along one edge, probably from having a hand put into it 
from time to time, so that part of the mouth hung inside (more to the 
center) and the ends showed about 1/4" of the pocket bag fabric, looking 
almost like a "bound" pocket mouth.

Just my 2c worth.

Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep  7 22:54:28 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 04:28 PM 09/07/1999 -1000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
>
>>  I think it's very likely that Elizabethan corsets were probably along the
>> lines of the one in Janet Arnold:  basically, a heavily boned bodice.  They
>> are more comfortable and the look better, because the shoulder straps pull
>> the breasts forward instead on flattening them into the underarm, and the
>> full back maintains a smoother line, rather than the upper back bulge that a
>> strapless corset can give.  
>
>	This addresses the exact thing I'm currently trying to figure out.
>How do you keep the shoulder straps hidden when the neckline of the gown
>is very wide?

By cutting the corset straps the same way, and probably a fraction narrower
than the strap covering them.  

Comparably, some bras meant for wearing with wide or plunging necklines,
such as Frederick's of Hollywood's "Cadillac"  bra, have the straps set to
sit at the very outer edges of the shoulders: right where an armhole seam
goes, as a matter of fact.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 00:11:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 22:21:52 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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CC: SarahToney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: The History of Costume
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Sarah asked:

> I just bought Carl Koehler (sp?)'s "History of Costume"... so far I like it,
> but can someone explain to me about the diagrams?  What do the numbers stand
> for... I assume that they are measurements, but in what unit, etc?  Please
> help?

They are measurements made in centimeters. (Not surprising as Koehler was
German.) If you divide them by 2.5 (or multiply by 5 and divide by 2) you will
get a good approximation of the measurement in inches. I've made up one of the
garments this way and it worked wonderfully.

Good luck,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 00:25:09 1999
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From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Videos
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Where are the shoulder straps on the Elizabethan corset? I have made
>corsets like the one pictured, but always felt they were more costume
>than proper clothing. Has anyone ever found documentation for a
>corset/pair of bodies with no straps in the 16th-17th century timeframe?
>Not too much extant, but before I condemned the picture for accuracy, I
>thought to doublecheck my own knowledge base!

Never.  I've never seen strapless bodices either since the "corset" was
essential a boned bodice for 16th century England.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 01:36:57 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings
>
>	This addresses the exact thing I'm currently trying to figure out.
>How do you keep the shoulder straps hidden when the neckline of the gown
>is very wide?  I'm thinking about gowns such as the coral colored Tudor
>worn by Elizabeth when she was a teen aged princess or the one in the
>Pelican portrait.  When the top edge of the bodice stretches almost from
>armpit to armpit was a strapless corset worn?  In those portraits, the
>breasts do look more flattened than pulled forward.

Actually, I seem to remember a post on H-Cost which suggested attaching the
sleeve to the neckline edge of the strap thereby hiding said strap.  Has
anyone actually tried this?  Also, with some of them I think it's a case of
the stap being hidden by the billament.  Besides which, there doesn't
appear to be much evidence for a "corset" like garment until the second
half of the 16th century.  At that stage I believe they were still
stiffening bodices with buckrahm.  Just my two cents worth.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 07:03:15 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 08:14:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: GreyGoose <ggoose@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9909071621420.600-100000@uhunix1>
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-Poster: GreyGoose <ggoose@Radix.Net>

Wow! A post I can actually contribute something to <g>. Unlurking with a
vengance.

I reproduced this gown for my daughter for CostumeCon (mumble- too lazy to
go look it up and the ol' brain cells are pretty sluggish this am).  There
was absolutely no way I could have put straps on her corset.  It was
partially
designed to overcome the difficulty of my daughter being terribly
short-waisted while the portrait shows Elizabeth as being somewhat
long-waisted.  It also had to perform some 'flattening' to achieve the
same silhouette - since she had developed more than anticipated by the
time she was 14/15 (similar to Elizabeth's age at the time of the portrait
- about 13).  It turned out pretty nicely, even if I do say to myself, but
the shoulders of the gown were held up by a combination of fortuitous
fitting and force of will. Fit was everything for this gown, and straps on
the corset were not a part of the plan.  I believe there may be a picture
of this on the web somewhere - She was with the son of a friend of mine
who was dressed as Prince Edward - and they went as The Children of Henry
VIII.  Since my experiment held up beautifully, even under a classic
teen-aged sprawl on the ground (she got tired and bored waiting for her
turn to practice on the stage), I would believe that strappless corsets
were 'what was done'.

Respectfully

Joanna Dionne
ggoose@radix.net


On Tue, 7 Sep 1999 lisaleon@hawaii.edu wrote:
<snip> 
> 	This addresses the exact thing I'm currently trying to figure out.
> How do you keep the shoulder straps hidden when the neckline of the gown
> is very wide?  I'm thinking about gowns such as the coral colored Tudor
> worn by Elizabeth when she was a teen aged princess or the one in the
> Pelican portrait.  When the top edge of the bodice stretches almost from
> armpit to armpit was a strapless corset worn?  In those portraits, the
> breasts do look more flattened than pulled forward.
> 
> lisa
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 09:22:23 1999
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From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
To: "'H-COST'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: "The Annotated Arnold" by Robert Trump
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-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>


Does anyone know where I can get a copy of "The Annotated Arnold" by Robert
Trump ?  I cannot find it on amazon or Barnes & Noble....

Brad Wilson


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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com


Hi, All,

I received a question concerning cotton or kid gloves. Susan wants them for 
regency period dress. Can anyone help her with where to purchase. Please 
email her directly at srichards@foleylaw.com.

Thanks in advance for your help,

Sally Queen

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 11:28:44 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:39:47 -0600 (MDT)
Message-Id: <199909081639.KAA00455@net.indra.com>
From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
To: "'H-COST'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
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-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>


I just thought I would send this suggestion about how I have created full
size pattern easily and scaled them up. I work as a draftsman/designer, and
have 10 years experience doing CAD (computer aided drafting). I just
finished my first Janet Arnold doublet (I took the peascod one and trimmed
the belly size down to fit my 'natural' padding). I scanned in the pattern
on my scanner, which had to be scanned in two pieces since it only takes
8.5" x 14", not 11" x 17" (which is what the book is). Then, I imported the
b/w drawing into AutoCAD. I then scaled up the scanned picture so that
instead of it being an 11" x 17", it was now a full scale pattern in the
computer. Since it also scaled the lines (turning a single line into about
6" wide), I had to use the cad program and trace over the pattern. Once that
was done, I then deleted the scan (which took up a good bit of
space/memory), and printed it out on a plotter that could plot 36" wide
paper.

For home use with any generic scanner and a normal letter size printer, I
think any generic CAD program would work that could import a picture type
that your scanner is capable of creating. Then you could draw a square box,
like 8.5" x 11", and make a large grid of those boxes. Then, trace the
pattern out, and plot it to the letter size paper and tape it together. I
have done this for a cloak pattern, and it works great. Now, you could
possibly take the drawing to a print/drafting company and have them print it
for maybe $4-7, which gives you an exact pattern blown-up from the drawings.

Just thought I would throw that idea out there and see if anyone has used
this method..

Brad Wilson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 11:44:18 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 11:56:34 -0500 (CDT)
To: "'H-COST'" <h-costume@indra.com>
cc: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Subject: Re: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
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-Poster: ches@io.com

you are great! this is what I have been playing with when New comers
arrive at my door step and need patterns to go home with them, but I hand
draw them from a projected image using a flash light and mirrors,
(campfire girl trick). It is not the *exact* pattern that is in the book
cause they want a different sleeve or neck like so it is never the same
twice. That and my hand is not as steady as it used to me. :)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 8 Sep 1999, Wilson, Brad wrote:

> Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:39:47 -0600 (MDT)
> From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: 'H-COST' <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
> 
> 
> I just thought I would send this suggestion about how I have created full
> size pattern easily and scaled them up. I work as a draftsman/designer, and
> have 10 years experience doing CAD (computer aided drafting). I just
> finished my first Janet Arnold doublet (I took the peascod one and trimmed
> the belly size down to fit my 'natural' padding). I scanned in the pattern
> on my scanner, which had to be scanned in two pieces since it only takes
> 8.5" x 14", not 11" x 17" (which is what the book is). Then, I imported the
> b/w drawing into AutoCAD. I then scaled up the scanned picture so that
> instead of it being an 11" x 17", it was now a full scale pattern in the
> computer. Since it also scaled the lines (turning a single line into about
> 6" wide), I had to use the cad program and trace over the pattern. Once that
> was done, I then deleted the scan (which took up a good bit of
> space/memory), and printed it out on a plotter that could plot 36" wide
> paper.
> 
> For home use with any generic scanner and a normal letter size printer, I
> think any generic CAD program would work that could import a picture type
> that your scanner is capable of creating. Then you could draw a square box,
> like 8.5" x 11", and make a large grid of those boxes. Then, trace the
> pattern out, and plot it to the letter size paper and tape it together. I
> have done this for a cloak pattern, and it works great. Now, you could
> possibly take the drawing to a print/drafting company and have them print it
> for maybe $4-7, which gives you an exact pattern blown-up from the drawings.
> 
> Just thought I would throw that idea out there and see if anyone has used
> this method..
> 
> Brad Wilson
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 11:44:23 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Does anyone have a phone number for the sales department of the Wolf dress
form company?

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 11:57:34 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

t I hand
>draw them from a projected image using a flash light and mirrors,
>(campfire girl trick).

Oooh, please explain how to do this!

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 12:05:59 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 12:18:37 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
In-Reply-To: <199909081708.KAA01065@zeus.directcon.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

You get a piece of glass, lay the think you want projected on it and turn
on the light source underneath it. Place a mirror at an angle on top of
the whole thing and just move it until it is the size you want it to be.
We did this in campfire to project ghosts on the wall during those stormy
story times in the great hall....;)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 8 Sep 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:08:34 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
> 
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> t I hand
> >draw them from a projected image using a flash light and mirrors,
> >(campfire girl trick).
> 
> Oooh, please explain how to do this!
> 
> Margo
> 
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 12:24:59 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Pattern Area URL
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:43:49 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>~Kyna
>"The Pattern Person"
    Please email me with the addy for the pattern site.   I don't seem to
have it anymore.  I sent email and all I get back is the password, etc.  I
have tried emailing again, and I got the same thing: password, etc.   It
doesn't help to have a password for somewhere you don't know how to get to.
        Michelle
   Sorry, now back to H-costume.....

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 12:28:43 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>, <sca-garb@list.uvm.edu>
Subject: H-COST: email problems
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:47:28 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BEF9E7.8B26F3E0
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   I realize that several people have had problems sending me mail.  I =
am looking for a better server.  In the meantime, I have opened a =
temporary account.  If mail bounces, please try sending it to=20
   Mandrake@Ireland.com=20
  =20
    I will do my best to straighten this out (hopefully, before I get =
booted from the list for bounced mail.)   Sorry for all the trouble.
   Michelle

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; I realize that several =
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had problems sending me mail.&nbsp; I am looking for a better =
server.&nbsp; In=20
the meantime, I have opened a temporary account.&nbsp; If mail bounces, =
please=20
try sending it to </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:Mandrake@Ireland.com">Mandrake@Ireland.com</A> =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I will do my best =
to=20
straighten this out (hopefully, before I get booted from the list for =
bounced=20
mail.)&nbsp;&nbsp; Sorry for all the trouble.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Michelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BEF9E7.8B26F3E0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 12:53:57 1999
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Message-ID: <023c01befa22$e27b0e20$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com>
From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <001601befa21$b6a230e0$ec96fea9@gunsafes>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Pattern Area URL
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 13:52:13 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

To Michelle and anyone that is interested:

::grins:: ya...I realized after your emails that if it's going to
autorespond that it should be with the User Name, Password *AND* the URL!
I've changed it so that it does just that.

URL to the Pattern Area:
http://UnicornCastle.net/wardrobe/patterns/index.html

The password agreement can be received by sending email to:
password@unicorncastle.net

The message board is fully functional and in an non-password protected area
for convenience:  http://UnicornCastle.net/board/index.html

(FYI  you can type these URLs in any way you want with or without the "www"
and with or with out the Capitol Letters in the domain name.)

~Kyna Grannd
"The Pattern Person"
pattern_person@unicorncastle.net

----
Kyna Grannd
Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing, Supplies and Accessories
http://GranndGarb.com
ICQ#12859312
http://TheMarketSquare.com
COMING SOON!! Ask for details about your selling space now.

----- Original Message -----
From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: costume list <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 1:43 PM
Subject: H-COST: Re: Pattern Area URL


>
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
> >~Kyna
> >"The Pattern Person"
>     Please email me with the addy for the pattern site.   I don't seem to
> have it anymore.  I sent email and all I get back is the password, etc.  I
> have tried emailing again, and I got the same thing: password, etc.   It
> doesn't help to have a password for somewhere you don't know how to get
to.
>         Michelle
>    Sorry, now back to H-costume.....


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 13:58:04 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me how many members this
list has?

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 14:47:19 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eleonora of Toledo/child
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 12:58:12 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>>I thought I would try again.  The child seems to be wearing a
>>simple tunic over a fancier edged chemise.  What does everyone think of 
>>that?

>I'm not so certain it's a tunic, although this is not my period.

Hello,

Not that this is the last word by any means, but I recall an article from TI 
regarding the tradition of having children of both sexes wear a long 
tunic/dress until they were more "in control" of their bodily functions.  
(Sort of the 'anti-diaper')  When a boy child could be taught control, he 
was given his first pair of pants.

So it would seem to me, by virtue of the age of the child in the painting, 
that he would be wearing a long tunic or dress.

Allessandre Desiderio
Ansteorra


"Those who give up a little liberty for safety, deserve neither liberty nor 
safety" - Ben Franklin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 15:35:48 1999
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Message-ID: <238pSDA8rs13Iwwr@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 21:45:48 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
In-Reply-To: <199909081639.KAA00455@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

My husband has used a similar method (though perhaps less expertly) to
scale up the patterns for medieval shoes in the Museum of London book.
He scales it up to somewhere near full size, and then cuts it out and
adjusts the fine detail on his foot, first with the paper and then heavy
fabric, before going into leather.

Jean

In message <199909081639.KAA00455@net.indra.com>, "Wilson, Brad"
<BWilson@gesexpo.com> writes
>
>-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
>
>
>I just thought I would send this suggestion about how I have created full
>size pattern easily and scaled them up. I work as a draftsman/designer, and
>have 10 years experience doing CAD (computer aided drafting). I just
>finished my first Janet Arnold doublet (I took the peascod one and trimmed
>the belly size down to fit my 'natural' padding). I scanned in the pattern
>on my scanner, which had to be scanned in two pieces since it only takes
>8.5" x 14", not 11" x 17" (which is what the book is). Then, I imported the
>b/w drawing into AutoCAD. I then scaled up the scanned picture so that
>instead of it being an 11" x 17", it was now a full scale pattern in the
>computer. Since it also scaled the lines (turning a single line into about
>6" wide), I had to use the cad program and trace over the pattern. Once that
>was done, I then deleted the scan (which took up a good bit of
>space/memory), and printed it out on a plotter that could plot 36" wide
>paper.
>
>For home use with any generic scanner and a normal letter size printer, I
>think any generic CAD program would work that could import a picture type
>that your scanner is capable of creating. Then you could draw a square box,
>like 8.5" x 11", and make a large grid of those boxes. Then, trace the
>pattern out, and plot it to the letter size paper and tape it together. I
>have done this for a cloak pattern, and it works great. Now, you could
>possibly take the drawing to a print/drafting company and have them print it
>for maybe $4-7, which gives you an exact pattern blown-up from the drawings.
>
>Just thought I would throw that idea out there and see if anyone has used
>this method..
>
>Brad Wilson
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 15:43:32 1999
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>


<I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me how many members this
<list has?

	630
				...eliz, list admin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 15:45:26 1999
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From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
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-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>


> you are great! this is what I have been playing with when New comers
> arrive at my door step and need patterns to go home with them, but I hand

Another option is if you know a relative who has scanner/computer/plotter
access, they may be able to do it for you. Be warned, when I plotted out the
venetian pattern for the peascod belly out of Janet Arnold's book, it was a
llloooonnggg plot! I did try to arrange the pieces to make the most use of
the paper. It took about 4-5 hours of time to trace it out, but it came our
great... What you can do is plot out the large pattern, keep track of what
you did to 'make it fit' you, then go back in and change the cad drawing to
reflect the changes. Then to scale a drawing up, no matter what size, just
put the new drawing over the old one's pieces and 'adjust it' till it's
about the right size. I haven't tried that one yet, but it sounds like a
good plan.

Brad Wilson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 16:07:41 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 14:24:22 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Organization: Completely Disorganized
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To: h-costume@indra.com
CC: SarahToney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: The History of Costume
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Sarah asked about the numbers in Carl Kohler's "History of Costume".

I had written:

> They are measurements made in centimeters. If you divide them by 2.5
> (or multiply by 5 and divide by 2) you will get a good approximation
> of the measurement in inches.

Obviously, you should multiply by 2 and divide by 5.

(I can do calculus and physics...it's the simple stuff that trips me up.)

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 16:09:25 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Check out wildginger.com for their "symmetry" pattern drafting software
package....it was designed by theatrcial costumers. 

 Part of their copy says: "Theatrical costumers will be interested in
Symmetry's ability to work with 1/8th scale patterns. Eighth scale patterns
may be digitized, saved in Symmetry, and scaled up to full size instantly."

Sounds to me as if they wrote it specifically for working with Janet
Arnold's books.  Now, if I can only figure out a way to afford it...

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 18:03:31 1999
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Date: 	Wed, 8 Sep 1999 13:10:18 -1000
From: lisaleon@hawaii.edu
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SV4.3.96.990908074025.3479A-100000@saltmine.radix.net>
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-Poster: lisaleon@hawaii.edu

On Wed, 8 Sep 1999, GreyGoose wrote:
> 
> was absolutely no way I could have put straps on her corset.  It was
> partially designed to overcome the difficulty of my daughter being
> terribly short-waisted while the portrait shows Elizabeth as being somewhat
> long-waisted.  It also had to perform some 'flattening' to achieve the
> same silhouette - since she had developed more than anticipated by the

	This is my problem too, although I'm small busted and don't need
much flattening.  However, the corset dropped my waistline by more than an
inch which helped.

> the shoulders of the gown were held up by a combination of fortuitous
> fitting and force of will. Fit was everything for this gown, and straps on
> the corset were not a part of the plan.  

	The shoulders of my gown stay on and like you, it was a matter of
the bodice fitting well.  I don't think there's any way I could have
gotten corset straps under there either, as the shoulder straps and sleeve
heads were right at the ends of my shoulders.

	I'm going to try and do something along the lines of the gown in
QE's Pelican portrait next and would like to try a corset with straps, as
I need more of my body parts pulled to the front rather than flattened to
the sides.  It appears that the sleeve heads are also right at the end of
the shoulders so I'm wondering how I'm going to hide the straps.  Would a
possible method be to have the backs of the straps start closer to the
center back than usual and have them sort of roll out and around (rather
than right over the top) of the shoulder?  Or maybe on my figure it
wouldn't really make much difference?

	And as an aside, it was somewhat flattering to see an altered
version of my .sig castle show up in someone else's .sig line recently :)
Or if it's just an incredible coincidence, great minds must think alike!

Lisa Leong        *       <|
lisaleon@hawaii.edu	  .^.  *
		     *  .=.=.=.       *
	    *    <|     ^V V V^    <|  
	       \^ ^ ^/   |   |   \^ ^ ^/
  	        |   |^^^^|   |^^^^|   |  
	        | []       []      [] |  
		| ":":":":...:":":":" | 
             ~~~|________[oIo]________|~~~   
            ~~~~~~~    ~~~~~~~~~     ~~~~~~
                   ~~~~~         ~~~~~



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 18:21:07 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 16:34:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking need
to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always the
same people (myself included)... not that this is a
bad thing since if we weren't talking there wouldn't
be a reason for this, huh? 

*grin*

Sarah


--- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
> 
> 
> <I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me
> how many members this
> <list has?
> 
> 	630
> 				...eliz, list admin
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 18:26:52 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>> the shoulders of the gown were held up by a combination of fortuitous
>> fitting and force of will. Fit was everything for this gown, and straps on
>> the corset were not a part of the plan.  
>
>	The shoulders of my gown stay on and like you, it was a matter of
>the bodice fitting well.  I don't think there's any way I could have
>gotten corset straps under there either, as the shoulder straps and sleeve
>heads were right at the ends of my shoulders.


I don't understand.  If you could make the gown's shoulder straps stay up,
why not a corset's straps as well, especially considering that they pinned
so many garments?  Pin the two layes togehter and they'll behave as one.  


>	I'm going to try and do something along the lines of the gown in
>QE's Pelican portrait next and would like to try a corset with straps, as
>I need more of my body parts pulled to the front rather than flattened to
>the sides.  It appears that the sleeve heads are also right at the end of
>the shoulders so I'm wondering how I'm going to hide the straps.  Would a
>possible method be to have the backs of the straps start closer to the
>center back than usual and have them sort of roll out and around (rather
>than right over the top) of the shoulder?  

Some Victorian corset straps did just this, for wear with  very wide evening
necklines.  

Margo 

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 18:41:31 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 19:53:14 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: dionne <ggoose@Radix.Net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: dionne <ggoose@radix.net>

<Margo wrote>
>
>I don't understand.  If you could make the gown's shoulder straps stay up,
>why not a corset's straps as well, especially considering that they pinned
>so many garments?  Pin the two layes togehter and they'll behave as one.  
>

Well - since the entire gown didn't *need* the corset to have straps to fit
and reproduce the appearance of the portrait, and they would have added
extra bulk that would have been even more uncomfortable (I was dressing a
14 year old after all) I saw no reason to add them in.  Also, the strapless
version allowed more freedom of movement - the corset stayed where it was
around her torso, when straps would have made it ride up as she moved
around (quite vigorously too). It has been a couple of years since I did
the research for this - my main period is Viking but the girl just looked
so *right* for the part.  But what I recall off the top of my head is
various bodies without straps for that time period. Of course, with a
memory like a steel sieve, I may be mistaken.

Joanna Dionne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 19:03:11 1999
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Message-ID: <2a868db1.2508561c@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 20:15:24 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan & 18th century corsets
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

All this reminds me of those [rare] gowns from about mid 18th century 
....found only in France I think.... that are all but off the shoulder. Where 
do the corset straps go for these lovelies? Of course with straps that tie to 
the bodies at either front or back, it's easy to see how one could get rid of 
them or tuck them away from sight. Perhaps Elizabethan women did the same for 
those special gowns of theirs.
Still some straps can get very narrow...3/4 of an inch. And the tying of them 
makes them adjustable for the longer off the shoulder measurement.

BTW...if you want to see one, both Glenn Close & Swoozie Kurtz have one of 
these off the shoulder gowns in Dangerous Liaisons. The only ones I've ever 
seen on a moving, breathing person.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 19:10:19 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990908233456.19196.rocketmail@web802.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 20:20:15 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Are our lurkers introverts????

>From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
<http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
"Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given the
right forum. They've found that the internet can help them communicate in
their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for thought
and analysis. "

Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!

Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of you>,
R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
9/10/99)
http://www.costumegallery.com

----- Original Message -----
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?


>
> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
> WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking need
> to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always the
> same people (myself included)... not that this is a
> bad thing since if we weren't talking there wouldn't
> be a reason for this, huh?
>
> *grin*
>
> Sarah
>
>
> --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
> >
> > -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
> >
> >
> > <I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me
> > how many members this
> > <list has?
> >
> > 630
> > ...eliz, list admin
> >
> >
> >
> _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> > majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 19:23:04 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
>Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of you>,
>R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
>of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
>9/10/99)

I'm in...but it's going to be HARD and I can't go cold turkey.  I'll sign
off at midnight, okay?

Margo
>

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
To: "'H-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 10:47:11 +1000 
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-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>

meep.

No, really. I usually only post when I have something *specific* to say.
That, or time to say it.

Georgia
back to mostly lurking. when I start making my vict. corset, you'll hear
from me all right.

actually... on that note.... I was planning to buy the pattern that Laughing
Moon sell. Does anyone have experience with this?

http:www.lafnmoon.com (I think... please correct if I'm wrong)
G
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 19:50:13 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 21:06:59 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

Hey!  I'm lurking and learning.  I thought I was doing pretty well as I've
only been dabbling in medieval/ren costuming for a couple years, and SCA for
even less time, until I got to this list and found out how much I do not
know.  So I read and learn (and buy the recommended books, of course!)
-----Original Message-----
From: Penny Ladnier <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?


>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>Are our lurkers introverts????
>
>From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
><http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
>"Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given the
>right forum. They've found that the internet can help them communicate in
>their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for thought
>and analysis. "
>
>Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
>Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of
you>,
>R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
>of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
>9/10/99)
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:34 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
>
>
>>
>> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>>
>> WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking need
>> to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always the
>> same people (myself included)... not that this is a
>> bad thing since if we weren't talking there wouldn't
>> be a reason for this, huh?
>>
>> *grin*
>>
>> Sarah
>>
>>
>> --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
>> >
>> >
>> > <I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me
>> > how many members this
>> > <list has?
>> >
>> > 630
>> > ...eliz, list admin
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
>> > majordomo@indra.com
>> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>> >
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 19:52:24 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 21:09:23 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

>actually... on that note.... I was planning to buy the pattern that
Laughing
>Moon sell. Does anyone have experience with this?


I just bought the pattern and am planning on getting around to it soon.
Does anyone have a good source for the busk closure pictured on the pattern
envelope?  Greenberg and Hammer show one in their catalog, but say they have
only 4 hooks.  The one pictured has at least 6 (pattern is not in front of
me at the moment).

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 20:06:18 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Rule of Toyota; Ya want, ya get/Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>


Hi

I just joined this list day before yesterday. Haven't really had a chance to 
get acclimated yet but just wanted to let you know I'm here.

Have some good news on the costume book front. Amazon.com now has the new 
Dover editions of Herbert Norris' Costume and Fashion series. Ancient 
Europe, vol 1, and the last to be reprinted will be available in October.

Now back to lurking, until I can think of something else to say. :-)

Lonna
(SKA, Enyd)
______________________________________________________________________
>From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
>Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 20:20:15 -0400
>
>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>Are our lurkers introverts????
>
>From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
><http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
>"Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given the
>right forum. They've found that the internet can help them communicate in
>their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for thought
>and analysis. "
>
>Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
>Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of 
>you>,
>R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
>of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
>9/10/99)
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:34 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
>
>
> >
> > -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >
> > WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking need
> > to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always the
> > same people (myself included)... not that this is a
> > bad thing since if we weren't talking there wouldn't
> > be a reason for this, huh?
> >
> > *grin*
> >
> > Sarah
> >
> >
> > --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
> > >
> > >
> > > <I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me
> > > how many members this
> > > <list has?
> > >
> > > 630
> > > ...eliz, list admin
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> > > majordomo@indra.com
> > >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 20:06:25 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 18:17:37 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

What about us semi-introverts?  I really *like* just lurking and getting all
the great emails from you guys...I've learned *so* much!  My posting are
mostly just questions.

*sigh*

Gia/Giacinta
-----Original Message-----
From: Penny Ladnier <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?


>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>Are our lurkers introverts????
>
>>From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
><http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
>"Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given the
>right forum. They've found that the internet can help them communicate in
>their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for thought
>and analysis. "
>
>Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
>Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of
you>,
>R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
>of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
>9/10/99)
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:34 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
>
>
>>
>> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>>
>> WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking need
>> to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always the
>> same people (myself included)... not that this is a
>> bad thing since if we weren't talking there wouldn't
>> be a reason for this, huh?
>>
>> *grin*
>>
>> Sarah
>>
>>
>> --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
>> >
>> >
>> > <I'm doing some market research. Can someone tell me
>> > how many members this
>> > <list has?
>> >
>> > 630
>> > ...eliz, list admin
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
>> > majordomo@indra.com
>> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>> >
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 20:15:03 1999
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From: Jujenkai@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 21:27:16 EDT
Subject: H-COST: questions for a friend
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Jujenkai@aol.com

Hello,
I am trying to help a friend of mine document an article of clothing and I 
was wondering if anyone could help me. I am needing patterns, pictures, 
documentation, and sources for the following 14th to 16th century garb that 
was worn in moorish spain and is from Morocco, Syria, Saudi Arabia. Some of 
these words are interchangeable: Merodan, Woniya, Shillahat, Baalto, gumbaz, 
zibun, sirwaal, syah, kaftan, thawb, jubba, furmilaaya, saaya, damir, cote, 
also formerly called The al ardah al nejdiah.
if someone could help me it would be a BIG help


Respectfully,

Brooks D. Barnes

_____________________________________________________________________

Brooks D. Barnes
506 Greensboro Street
Starkville, Ms 39759
U.S.A. 
Tel (662) 323-5799
e-mail jujenkai@aol.com
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 20:41:03 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 21:56:05 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

> But what I recall off the top of my head is
>various bodies without straps for that time period. Of course, with a
>memory like a steel sieve, I may be mistaken.


All the bodies I've seen have straps (of course, I haven't seen all the
extant garments...and none of them were Tudor).  Since almost by definition
"a pair of bodies" implies that both "bodice" and "corset" are cut on
similar lines, can we postulate a strapless bodice for the Tudor period to
correlate with a strapless "corset"?  I'm not sure myself.  I'm guessing the
straps are there;  they're just tiny like those on the outer bodice.  And
I'm betting they fit very snugly, using the bias properties; the same thing
goes for the bodice itself--otherwise, you'd have the things drooping off
one's shoulders.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 21:00:13 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 19:14:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I wasn't trying to be critical... it just hit me as
funny that I was under the impression that there were
40 of us or so on the list... ;-)  Actually, most
lists are like this... and I tend to "lurk" on most of
them.. . just not this one for some reason. ;-)

Sarah


--- Megan McHugh <mmchugh@starpower.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> 
> Hey!  I'm lurking and learning.  I thought I was
> doing pretty well as I've
> only been dabbling in medieval/ren costuming for a
> couple years, and SCA for
> even less time, until I got to this list and found
> out how much I do not
> know.  So I read and learn (and buy the recommended
> books, of course!)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Penny Ladnier
> <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 8:24 PM
> Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
> 
> 
> >
> >-Poster: "Penny Ladnier"
> <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> >
> >Are our lurkers introverts????
> >
> >From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
>
><http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
> >"Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a
> lot to say given the
> >right forum. They've found that the internet can
> help them communicate in
> >their preferred manner; a written dialogue with
> time to pause for thought
> >and analysis. "
> >
> >Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start
> talking.  Let's make Thursday,
> >9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking
> for ONE day, and let the
> >introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your
> forum!
> >
> >Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with
> Margo, Charlene <both of
> you>,
> >R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea,
> Fran, gee, if I left any
> >of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you
> will hear from me until
> >9/10/99)
> >http://www.costumegallery.com
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 7:34 PM
> >Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
> >
> >
> >>
> >> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >> WoW!  Okay, all you out there that aren't talking
> need
> >> to speak up more! ;-)  It seems like it is always
> the
> >> same people (myself included)... not that this is
> a
> >> bad thing since if we weren't talking there
> wouldn't
> >> be a reason for this, huh?
> >>
> >> *grin*
> >>
> >> Sarah
> >>
> >>
> >> --- Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > -Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > <I'm doing some market research. Can someone
> tell me
> >> > how many members this
> >> > <list has?
> >> >
> >> > 630
> >> > ...eliz, list admin
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> >> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> >> > majordomo@indra.com
> >> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> __________________________________________________
> >> Do You Yahoo!?
> >> Bid and sell for free at
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
> >> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
> >>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> >>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 21:19:39 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 8 Sep 1999, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> 
> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
> 
> Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of you>,
> R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
> of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
> 9/10/99)
But the 9/10 is halfway over here. Oh you mean the 10/9...whoops.
*grin* 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 19:32:31 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

           As I am not at the level of expertise most others seem to be.  I
read, I try, I learn...I lurk...thus, am I ... Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 22:05:59 1999
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From: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/Elizabethan corsets
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

> I don't understand.  If you could make the gown's shoulder straps stay up,
> why not a corset's straps as well, especially considering that they pinned
> so many garments?  Pin the two layes togehter and they'll behave as one.  

	Err, I don't quite know how to explain this but I'll give it a
try.  The gown wasn't being held up by the straps.  The bust and torso
areas fit well enough to hold the bodice up and the neckline in the back
is high enough that the shoulders won't fall.  The straps lie comfortably
on my shoulders but if I tilt one down the strap will stay up without my
shoulder touching it.

	So I could probably make a corset where the straps could be pinned
and hidden...but I don't know if the straps would actually be supporting
anything.  I'll fiddle with the one I have and see if I can make something
work.  You've given me some ideas.  Thanks!

Lisa Leong        *       <|
lisaleon@hawaii.edu	  .^.  *
		     *  .=.=.=.       *
	    *    <|     ^V V V^    <|  
	       \^ ^ ^/   |   |   \^ ^ ^/
  	        |   |^^^^|   |^^^^|   |  
	        | []       []      [] |  
		| ":":":":...:":":":" | 
             ~~~|________[oIo]________|~~~   
            ~~~~~~~    ~~~~~~~~~     ~~~~~~
                   ~~~~~         ~~~~~


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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 20:50:35 -0700
Subject: H-COST: 9/9/99
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Let the lurkers begin......

Frankly I think I lurk a lot more than I speak, but obviously Penny does not
think so..... so there!
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 22:41:37 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 23:56:59 -0400
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

This was the pattern We used at Costume College July '98.  Also at U.S.
Institute of Theatre Technology's Convention in Long Beach, CA earlier
that summer.  Both teachers thought it was the best for fitting most
people.  I had major surgery after and found it didn't fit me as well
this year when we did "cuirasse bodice" over it.  I never got it
completely made but it has a busk and boning channels.  Being tall I had
to get a longer busk and, if I remember correctly, I found one at
Costume College at either "Enhancements" booth or "Alteryears", most
probably the former.  They have a catalog but I think it's mostly for
period hat supplies.

Janice 
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 21:04:08 PDT
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-Poster: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>

>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
> >actually... on that note.... I was planning to buy the pattern that
>Laughing
> >Moon sell. Does anyone have experience with this?
>
>
>I just bought the pattern and am planning on getting around to it soon.
>Does anyone have a good source for the busk closure pictured on the pattern
>envelope?  Greenberg and Hammer show one in their catalog, but say they 
>have
>only 4 hooks.  The one pictured has at least 6 (pattern is not in front of
>me at the moment).

http://farthingales.on.ca has spoon busks & reg. hook-and-eye type busks. 
They also sell the pattern as a corset kit. I'm considering getting it, but 
it includes the german plastic boning. The lady I emailed said that it was 
much better than Rigilene, but I'm very wary.. Anyone have any experience 
with German plastic stuff?

Kris
delurking... :]

oh, and they hav pics of the corset made up on their site. They're lovely 
patterns. :]
http://farthingales.on.ca/patterns.htm#patterns
for teh exact URL..

______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:05:27 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 21:24:18 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>

At 07:32 PM 09/08/1999 , you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>           As I am not at the level of expertise most others seem to be.  I
>read, I try, I learn...I lurk...thus, am I ... Carol

What she said! :->

Svanny


Svanhildr  Valdimarsdottir     )O(
   Barony of Gyldenholt, Kingdom of Caid
  kittykat@primenet.com
  ICQ: 12691776 (NyteRaevyn)
  AIM: SvanhildrV 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:12:48 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 23:16:51 -0500
From: Dianne Kristoff <vestido@mb.sympatico.ca>
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-Poster: Dianne Kristoff <vestido@mb.sympatico.ca>

Such pressure on us lurkers....but a great opportunity to stumble into
the list.

At the tender age of 52 years I have just begun grad school.  My focus
is undergarments of the 18th and 19th century.  At the moment my
knowledge is general but not without background.  Since I love the idea
of fun, I'm hoping to do some specific work on the boudoir of some
dazzling beauties of that time frame.  Even better than fun, I love
suggestions!

Whew....I did it.
Dianne

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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 23:28:39 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Penny Ladnier wrote:

> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
> Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of you>,
> R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
> of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
> 9/10/99)

Actually, I don't post very often to this list.  I think you're confusing me
from the h-needlework list.  :-)  OK, so I'll wait until after Sep 10th to tell
you about the letter I received from Vienna when I asked about the bliaut.

--Charlene

--
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.


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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990909034710.THJO22396.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 9/9/99
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01BEFA5B.A7860A20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Okay, I confess, I am a lurker.  What now?  Forced to talk, you say.  =
What is this world coming to?

Penny asked if the lurkers were introverts.  I would have to say not =
necessarily.  I am primarily a lurker (with an occasional post) and am =
actually quite the extrovert.  By the time I have hit the keyboard at =
the end of a long day, I am simply too tired to join in the many =
interesting conversations on this list, as well as other lists I lurk.  =
Therefore, I have become perfectly content with reading.  I enjoy the =
questions, the answers, the informative posts, and admittedly even the =
occasional argument.  Hey, Jerry Springer is just too much for me.  I =
will settle with a good costuming debate any day.

Margo mentioned that it would be tough for her not to post for "Lurkers =
Speak Out Day" or whatever this is called.  I am sure that many of us =
lurkers would sooner enjoy reading your posts than trying to come up =
with something to say.  Hang in there, Margo, its just one day.=20

And finally, R.L. Shep wrote:
<<Frankly I think I lurk a lot more than I speak, but obviously Penny =
does not
think so..... so there!

I think Penny may think you speak more than lurk simply because you and =
your site are often mentioned by satisfied costumers and researchers. =
Take it as a compliment.  You are a popular lurker on this list.

Well, I for one, am now returning to my lurking.  Actually I am going to =
bed early...it's only 12:30am.  Yippee!

Happy Lurkers Day and all that other good stuff!!

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!


------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01BEFA5B.A7860A20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Okay, I confess, I am a lurker.&nbsp; What =
now?&nbsp; Forced=20
to talk, you say.&nbsp; What is this world coming to?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Penny asked if the lurkers were introverts.&nbsp; I =
would have=20
to say not necessarily.&nbsp; I am primarily a lurker (with an =
occasional post)=20
and am actually quite the extrovert.&nbsp; By the time I have hit the =
keyboard=20
at the end of a long day, I am simply too tired to join in the many =
interesting=20
conversations on this list, as well as other lists I lurk.&nbsp; =
Therefore, I=20
have become perfectly content with reading.&nbsp; I enjoy the questions, =
the=20
answers, the informative posts, and admittedly even the occasional=20
argument.&nbsp; Hey, Jerry Springer is just too much for me.&nbsp; I =
will settle=20
with a good costuming debate any day.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Margo mentioned that it would be tough for her not =
to post for=20
"Lurkers Speak Out Day" or whatever this is called.&nbsp; I am sure that =
many of=20
us lurkers would sooner enjoy reading your posts than trying to come up =
with=20
something to say.&nbsp; Hang in there, Margo, its just one day. =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>And finally, R.L. Shep wrote:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&lt;&lt;Frankly I think I lurk a lot more than I =
speak, but=20
obviously Penny does not<BR>think so..... so there!<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I think Penny may think you speak more than lurk =
simply=20
because you and your site are often mentioned by satisfied costumers and =

researchers.&nbsp;Take it as a compliment.&nbsp; You are a popular =
lurker on=20
this list.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Well, I for one, am now returning to my =
lurking.&nbsp;=20
Actually I am going to bed early...it's only 12:30am.&nbsp; =
Yippee!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Happy Lurkers Day and all that other good =
stuff!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01BEFA5B.A7860A20--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:33:32 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 21:46:24 -0700
From: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>
Organization: Crone's Sewing Circle and Terrorist Society
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-Poster: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>

I am a costuming newbie though I have been sewing for tens of years. 
I have made simple clothing, but nothing elaborate.  I want to tackle
a tougher project though.  I think I need challenge to go forward.  I
am daunted by those on the list with soooooo much experience.  Half
the time I do not know what they are even talking about, but I look up
the words and am getting better.  

I am learning all the time and have the courage to try a fancy gown,
though still rather a simple one.  I am in the process, taking my
first baby steps.  Alas, I still tear out as much as I sew, but when I
get through removing stitches and re-sewing, it looks great.  I aspire
to doing it once and having it right.  Sigh.  One can dream.  Sounds
like Carol and I are at the same stage.  We can commiserate with one
another.

Marilyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:40:23 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 23:52:30 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Both I and my wife are on the list.  I tend to lurk since there are
only a few topics I am disposed to share on, and she because she
doesn't have much time to contribute.

Marc (and Jennifer) Carlson
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:44:06 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 00:57:39 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Lurking doesn't mean "not learning"
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-Poster: Morses3@aol.com

I have "lurked" for about a year on this list, originally to pick up some 
inspiration for when I could start to really learn to sew, instead of jabbing 
at it like I had been. Along with inspiration, I've learned a huge amount 
from all the posters here, especially about methods of experimenting with 
patterns, sources for hard to find supplies, the best costume book reviews 
I've seen, to ALWAYS make a muslin first before cutting good fabric, and even 
how to get the cat smell out of that great chair I got at an auction! 

We may be lurkers, but I bet I'm not the only one with boxes full of 
patterns, shelves full of books, a sketchbook of plans,  drawers full of 
fabric and lots of questions once I get started.....

Watch out, we'll take over the list someday :-)

Perry Morse
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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <37D734B3.EFDF1AA6@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dressed & out of the closet!
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 01:00:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Oh, I had to comment on this one before I am off to bed.

Dianne wrote:
<<At the tender age of 52 years I have just begun grad school.  My focus
is undergarments of the 18th and 19th century.  At the moment my
knowledge is general but not without background <snip>

Good for you!=20

 That reminds me of an unanswered question that a few of us were =
discussing on another list awhile back (can't remember which one).  The =
question was something to the effect of did women of late 1800's (1880's =
or 90's) tuck their chemise into their drawers, or leave them out?  One =
poster insisted that they left them out, although I saw a picture of a =
chemise tucked into the drawers in one of my books.  Was it the option =
of the wearer or was there a trend?  The poster with the question wanted =
actual documentation.   I am interested to know the answer to this from =
someone with more expertise on the subject. Don't mean to put you on the =
spot, Dianne.  This question is open to anyone with a comment. =20

Thanks! =20

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!

------=_NextPart_000_00B7_01BEFA5E.C0C41BA0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Oh, I had to comment on this one before I am off to=20
bed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Dianne wrote:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&lt;&lt;At the tender age of 52 years I have just =
begun grad=20
school.&nbsp; My focus<BR>is undergarments of the 18th and 19th =
century.&nbsp;=20
At the moment my<BR>knowledge is general but not without background=20
&lt;snip&gt;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Good for you!&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;That reminds me of an unanswered question that =
a few of=20
us were discussing on another list awhile back (can't remember which =
one).&nbsp;=20
The question was something to the effect of did women of late 1800's =
(1880's or=20
90's) tuck their chemise into their drawers, or leave them out?&nbsp; =
One poster=20
insisted that they left them out, although I saw a picture of&nbsp;a =
chemise=20
tucked into the drawers in one of my books.&nbsp; Was it the option of =
the=20
wearer or was there a trend?&nbsp; The poster with the question wanted =
actual=20
documentation.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am interested to know the answer to =
this from=20
someone with more expertise on the subject. Don't mean to put you on the =
spot,=20
Dianne.&nbsp; This question is open to anyone with a comment.&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks!&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00B7_01BEFA5E.C0C41BA0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:52:54 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Lurking doesn't mean "not learning"
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/8/1999 21:59:03 Pacific Daylight Time, Morses3@aol.com 
writes:

<< We may be lurkers, but I bet I'm not the only one with boxes full of 
 patterns, shelves full of books, a sketchbook of plans,  drawers full of 
 fabric and lots of questions once I get started.....
 
 Watch out, we'll take over the list someday :-) >>

This is delightful! what a chorus of unheard from souls.... all responding to 
a teensy little challenge to be heard.  Well done, Penny!  Now if we can get 
them to contribute more often. Stories of what you all do with those shelves 
of books, sketchbooks and drawers of fabric

Angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:57:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 00:22:01 -0500
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>



I'd like to introduce myself to the list and admit I'm a lurker.  I work
for the national park service as a ranger.  I'm also an artist
(environmental art mostly in oils) and a historic costumer.  I've
designed and made garments for my own business and as a house fashion
designer.  I have a degree in biology and chemistry with a recent
background in microbiology research.  I have two grown boys and a cowboy
husband.  I read most of the list but not all, no extra time.  I do have
a request, does anyone know of someone [N. Texas or Oklahoma] who has an
useable sidesaddle to "loan" for a living history program in December?
Thanks,
Ninya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep  8 23:58:46 1999
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-Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>

> Actually, I don't post very often to this list.  I think you're confusing me
> from the h-needlework list.  :-)  OK, so I'll wait until after Sep 10th to tell
> you about the letter I received from Vienna when I asked about the bliaut.

Hey, did it have any info the rest of us could use?  (I don't care if
it's in Italian, I can always get a dictionary :-)

Heather (
on-and-off extro, whether I know anything or not)
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 9 Sep 1999, lynnx wrote:

> 
> -Poster: lynnx <lynnx@enteract.com>
> 
> > Actually, I don't post very often to this list.  I think you're confusing me
> > from the h-needlework list.  :-)  OK, so I'll wait until after Sep 10th to tell
> > you about the letter I received from Vienna when I asked about the bliaut.
> 
> Hey, did it have any info the rest of us could use?  (I don't care if
> it's in Italian, I can always get a dictionary :-)
> 
If it came from Vienna wouldn't it be in German?
Claire (always a pedant :-)

PS Never mind extrovert or not - tell us about that letter!!!!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Katrina Worley <kworley@ns.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #542
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-Poster: Katrina Worley <kworley@ns.net>

> That reminds me of an unanswered question that a few of us were =
>discussing on another list awhile back (can't remember which one).  The =
>question was something to the effect of did women of late 1800's (1880's =
>or 90's) tuck their chemise into their drawers, or leave them out?  One =
>poster insisted that they left them out, although I saw a picture of a =
>chemise tucked into the drawers in one of my books.  Was it the option =
>of the wearer or was there a trend?  The poster with the question wanted =
>actual documentation.   I am interested to know the answer to this from =
>someone with more expertise on the subject.

My research indicates that it depends on the relationship between the
length of the chemise and the width legs/length of the crotch on the
drawers.  IOW, early in the century, when the chemises tended to be long
and the drawers narrow, they were generally  worn untucked.  By the end of
the century as the chemises became shorter and the drawers wider with a
longer crotch, they tended to be tucked in.  In between, it depended on
personal preference, and the cut of the individual undergarments.  I'd put
the 1880-90 time period towards the end of the "personal preference" range.
The "combination" undergarment of the turn of the century is  in effect a
"tucked-in" chemise and drawers sewn together into one garment.

Katrina (returning to lurk mode)

Katrina in Loomis, CA
kworley@ns.net
***************
History: what special people were doing in special places at special times;
Anthropology: what everyone else was doing the rest of the time.

						**K. Worley, 1997**


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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 22:33:37 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:24 PM 09/08/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
>What she said! :->
>
>Svanny
        Bless you, Svanny--there do seem to be a fair number of us, don't
there!  Gra/inne / Carol [living in the Province of Golden Rivers, working
in the Shire of Windy Meads, Principality of Cynagua, Kingdom of the
West--but usually encamped with the Shire of Crosston, Principality of the
Mists, &c.]
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 22:38:22 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 11:28 PM 09/08/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
>Actually, I don't post very often to this list.  I think you're confusing me
>from the h-needlework list.  :-)  OK, so I'll wait until after Sep 10th to
tell
>you about the letter I received from Vienna when I asked about the bliaut.
>
>--Charlene
               Aah...noooo.   Write it now, and let me be your
guineapig...then you can fwd. it to the list... {grin}  Carol / Gra/inne
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

What they said! :-)


				Arlys


>>           As I am not at the level of expertise most others seem to
be.  I
>>read, I try, I learn...I lurk...thus, am I ... Carol
>
>What she said! :->
>
>Svanny

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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 01:49:34 -0400
From: Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Unlurking for 9-9-99 - long
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@compuserve.com>

I'll have to pop up a day early, because I'll be one of those computer
nerds baby-sitting the computers tomorrow for 9-9-99...  Actualy have a few
things to respond to on the current list anyway.

RE: Steel Busk with more than 4 hooks:  I think it just the length of the
busk that determins how many hooks.  I've got two from AlterYears, the
longer one has 5 hooks.  You can contact them at sales@alteryears.com or
626-585-2994.  (Don't use the older  CompuserServe e-mail address or I'll
just end up forwarding it to the ladies at the store... and that will delay
the order.)

RE: Laughing moon pattern: I've used the instructions to make another
corset, since they're that clear.  (Used it as a base for a straight front
1900 corset.) People who've made that pattern and a number of the other
Victorian corsets, swear by the comfort of the longer Laughing Moon
pattern. It''s a later period than most, too.

Re: Sizing a pattern up from the grids:  Even a perfect enlargement takes a
lot of adjustment.  Our bodies are such differnet sizes than the historical
garments.  I've found it faster to "Sketch" it on gridded pattern paper. 
When I start, I know what size I need for waist, length, etc. and mark out
some of those main points on the big paper.  I do the match on how many
squares I'm using vs. how many the drawing is using.  Get out my
calculated, figgure out the the percentage increase.  (I'm bigger, what can
I say.) Then I sketch in the details counts squares and adding the
percentage.  Sometimes pieces of a regular pattern get added in to fix
curve, figure ease, change necklines, etc.  

After the base sketch, I check it lightly on the body and then start the
muslin process.  If I'm not sure at all, I don't even cut the paper out, I
trace a muslin from it for the areas where I'm not sure the sizing when and
then check the muslins on the body... changes go back to the pattern
piecies.  LARGE ERASER!  When done, ink in the final lines.  Date it and
note the person it was fit on AND their weight and measurements at that
time.  Will save a lot of time later and there's only one big piece of
paper to roll up later.

I've found sizing up from grids better for Hunnisett since she lists the
basic size the grid is for... so the ease is already built in.  Example:
Hunisett's victorina petticoat with circular ruffle:  say the person the
patern being made for is two inches shorter and the waist is 25% more. 
Don't add the number of inches to the waist.  Count how many squares the
top two waist points cover. Make a dot on the paper where the waist should
start.  Make the other dot the number of squares over on the picture grid
PLUS 25 % more squares.  Mark that dot.  Sketch in the same waist line. 
For the hem line, start on the "straight".  Mark the bottom MINUS the two
inches differnet in heigth.  (This is a straight line, the inches=
squares.) Lightly mark where the original "dot" would be for the other
bottom corner.  Now do two bits of math.  Move the dot out 25% more (to
make up for the waist expansion) then calculate how high up to come.  Here
you need to know what percentage the 2" was of the original lengh becuase
this subtraction of length must be a percentage.  Calculate the percentage
and mark your 4th dot!!!  Use a ruler to draw in the line from the waist
and sketch the hem.  (You may need to check the square count to figure out
exactly how to get the clean curve there.)  Basic petticoat is done!  Then
need to adjust the circle ruffle the same way.  That line you drew from
waist to floor in the back adjusted the width of the circle.

OK, are you confused yet. Don't worry.  Just use your high school math. 
Remeber diagramming one square over, two up... put a dot.  It can be done. 
My sister made her first pattern this way crawling around on the grid paper
on the kitchen floor... while training her body for her wedding by wearing
the straight front corset (I was taking about in the 1st part of the
post)... while I was fussing with expanding the details on an Arnold 1901
bodice.  (Seriously.... deadly seriously.)

OK, back into lurk mode.
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 22:51:28 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:46 PM 09/08/1999 -0700, you wrote: -Poster: Marilyn Warren
<jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>  I aspire
>to doing it once and having it right.  Sigh.  One can dream.  Sounds
>like Carol and I are at the same stage.  We can commiserate with one
>another.
          There seem to be a fair number of us out here. By all means, let
us proceed!  
          My next project is an Italian Renaissance 'camisa {spelling?],
undergown, and overgown.  I have med.-dk. blue cotton velveteen [easy to
work with, natural fiber, &c.] for the overgown.  I intend to make the
chemise of the finest linen I can find.  Anyone care to suggest an
appropriate fabric for the undergown and appropriate trim?  I was thinking
possibly of a cream color...maybe brocade?   When did moire became
fashionable--not until much later, did it?  And might be too lightweight?
I live in an area known for getting up to 110 degrees F. in the summer
sometimes [it's now in the 90's daily], and down as far as the 60's-70's
evenings.  Or in the wintertime between [degrees F. again] 40's - freezing.
  For any suggestions, thank you in advance for lending your expertise to
my cause.  -- Carol / Gra/inne
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 00:27:38 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

lol well I really don't fall into the intro/extro catagories. I have just felt so far that I had nothing really worth while to add tot he conversation. I'm fairly new at the actual construction of historic costume. I've been a small time collector/big time admirer since I was 11 or 12. From then on it's been a big part of my life...a main interest if you will.  saw this list and felt that I should join because it would be a wonderful chance to learn. I'm planning on getting married in the not TOO terribly distant future and would love to have a vintage looking dress, what better way to get exactly what I want than to make it myself, right? So I'm here to observe and to learn. I've found a designer in the UK that makes very elaborate dresses (wedding/special ocassion) if I can't manage to make one myself I'll resort back to her I suppose. Her dresses are beautiful but you know there is always one thng about a dress that just doesn't seem right, whether it be colour or fabric, o!
r a button you don't like. For perfection (at least in your own eyes) it's best to do it yourself :) lol then you have noone else to blame. 

Well there, I contributed!

Oh I have a question...
I remember reading in ...Victoria I think it was, that there was a museum in New England ...Rochester (although I can't remember if it was NY or MA)of costume and that they rented some of their dresses for weddings etc. Does anyone know of this museum or if they still do this?

Ginn
---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 


On Thu, 9 Sep 1999 13:09:12    The Purple Elephant wrote:
>
>-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
>
>On Wed, 8 Sep 1999, Penny Ladnier wrote:
>
>> 
>> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>> 
>> Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of you>,
>> R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left any
>> of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me until
>> 9/10/99)
>But the 9/10 is halfway over here. Oh you mean the 10/9...whoops.
>*grin* 
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
>Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
>and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
>friendly substance.
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
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-Poster: "Mary HInton" <mary_hinton@my-deja.com>

Re Tudor stays and the teenager who didn't like the shoulder straps.

I think both N Waugh and Cunnington state that the shoulder straps also serve to narrow the back and expand the chest - this is more than just keeping the stays in place.  I am sure a present day teenager might find this a bit uncomfortable.  I have seen pictures of 18C stays where the shoulder strap goes from the high boned back, forward and down over the shoulder and fastens quite a way back under the arm.  I am not sure if this was to give the wide neckline,  and/or to pull the shoulders back.

---Mary





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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 11:59:51 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Elizabeth Higgins <Lissa@duchess.globalnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: Elizabeth Higgins <Lissa@duchess.globalnet.co.uk>

At 20:20 08/09/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Are our lurkers introverts????

<chuckle> In no way am I an introvert! If you said that to any of my
friends they would have a laughing fit. It's just that at the moment 
I have very little to offer. My house is far too small to do any 
dressmaking in, so I shall be buying a new and bigger place in a 
few months. Then I shall set up my sewing machine (unused so far) 
and start to learn what all you good people take for granted. 

All I can say is watch out for a whole mess of questions when that 
happens, you may regret asking people to crawl out of the woodwork
<g>. In the meantime I lurk and read with great interest, particularly
the postings related to the late Victorian era, which is my main
period of interest.

Lissa (well I hate Liz)
aka The Duchess (well I did say I was an extrovert <g>)

People are always blaming their circumstances for what they are. I don't 
believe in circumstances. The people who get on in this world are the 
people who get up and look for the circumstances they want, and, if they 
can't find them, make them.
-- George Bernard Shaw, "Mrs. Warren's Profession," 1893

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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make
Thursday,
> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
>
> Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both of
you>,
> R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I left
any
> of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from me
until
> 9/10/99)

Gracious!
I've woken up to 52 messages in my inbox this morning, SOMEONE certainly
must be speaking out!  Hmm, I think that in the year or so I've been on this
list I've made at *least* 8 posts, and this doesn't qualify me as an extro!?
;-)

Keep having fun and dispensing the wonderful information everyone, I'm
sliding back into the shadows now. :-D

Kerrie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 06:33:52 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
Subject: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
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-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>

I have posted twice in the last two months, do I count as an introvert?

I am currently writing up my Ph.D. thesis (which is in _mining_, not
_costuming_) and don't have much _time_. I still have in my mind, when all
this is over and I'm awaiting my baby, to take up the idea again of a new
FAQ list.

Things I haven't said:
People always contend that there were no buttons in the middle ages. I
don't know what kinds of buttons you mean, but when I was in the Danish
Nationalmuseet in Kopenhagen in May, they had two complete outfits on
display from the medieval period in Denmark (which began later than
elsewhere, around 1000). These outfits were obviously replicas of dresses
found at excavations or in bogs. And the sleeves did have buttons, a long
row of small fabric-covered buttons all down the outside of the underarm,
to get the narrow sleeve closed. I just don't find my notes on it. It was
11th or 12th century.
When I was in the Berlin National Gallery the other day, I noticed that in
the early 1500 paintings, everybody had sleeves not sewn closed, but pinned
around the arm, and sometime the detail was elaborate: so, sometimes, they
were obviously closed with little straps, and sometimes with little buttons
as well.

On many paintings from the 1500s and 1600s, I noticed slashes in people's
clothes through which the undergarment showed. These slashes were sometimes
decorative (as for sleeves), but more often functional, to allow for ease
without shaping tight garments around the knee, elbow, the knuckles of
gloves, the hip, one time even the codpiece. Nowwhere was there an
indication that the edges of these slashes were cared for in any way (so as
not to fray). My theory is that outer garments were made of fulled wool,
which doesn't fray.

For those of you who read German and are interested in Victorian/Edwardian
undergarments, there is a book I can recommend:
"Das Buch der Wäsche." by Brigitta Hochfelden and Marie Niedner (reprint),
hardback, ISBN: 3887460812, Price DEM 49.00 or EUR 25.05, available e.g.
from amazon.de (www.amazon.de . Or try www.buchhandel.de). The original
from around 1900 (no year given :-( ) is about all aspects of undergarments
and household linen, construction, embroidery, signing, whitework, care,
washing, etc., with many drawings/etchings and 5 pattern sheets. A
beautiful reprint edition from 1988.

There you are!

Happy 9/9/99 to all! Hope your computers and databases will make it!

Barbara Maren

--
Barbara Maren Winkler                         barbara@math.tu-berlin.de

  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 06:57:29 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Whoa!

> Actually, I don't post very often to this list.  I think you're confusing
me
> from the h-needlework list.  :-)  
> --Charlene
> 
> --
> If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.

H-needlework list?  Please tell me more!

Kathlene
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Yes, for the most part I am a lurker. I do this for many reasons...time,
learning what other people think, not much to contribute....but I do post an
occasional response when I feel it is necessary. I do that on all the lists
that I am a member of.
Carol Ross


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Happy Inrovert's Day --as well, from another 'lurker'. Actually I've been 
doing costumning for almost 28 years, mostly 16th century, with side ventures 
into the Regency, the Georgian, and Edwardian periods.With my busy work and 
teaching schedule,I , too, often don't have the energy to post very much. And 
just when someone puts out a plea for help--and my fingers get itchy to reply 
, I notice the Extroverts jump right in. Which is fine--just as long as those 
questions get taken care of by someone. Anyway, I've enjoyed reading the 
discussions--and found them informative, as well as sometimes entertaining:)
Cheers to all--
albra
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From: "A. Benton" <abenton@acesag.auburn.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: "A. Benton" <bentoam@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "A. Benton" <abenton@acesag.auburn.edu>

Greetings to all fellow lurkers!!

My name is Andrea, and I also lurk the corridors of the list.

And like many, I am in the SCA...and have started taking more of an
interest in making my garb more...."presentable"  :-)

I speak up every so often....

(now, back into lurking mode!)

Andrea
in 
Alabama



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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 09:18:05 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

In a message dated 9/9/1999 9:12:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
AlbraKat@aol.com writes:

> and my fingers get itchy to reply 
>  , I notice the Extroverts jump right in. Which is fine--just as long as 
> those 
>  questions get taken care of by someone.
But please, be sure you jump in if you see some misinformation in reply!  
Unfortunately, there seems to be some of that on this list.  (I don't count 
myself as a lurker--I chime in rather often, if the inquiry is in my area of 
interest/expertise.)
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:07:43 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990909021409.29925.rocketmail@web804.mail.yahoo.com> <4.1.19990908212353.073582a0@pop.primenet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Wool Question
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 09:08:07 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

I don't know if I'm an "in" or an "ex" but I have a question just the same.

Before I send back this wool that I thought was at least 13 oz.

Does anyone know of any uses in medieval/renaissance periods of a
lightweight wool such as a gabardine? It's really lovely material and if I
was inclined to make myself a dress suit, it would be of this material. As
it turns, I was intending to make some capes and trews from it and wanted a
heavier weight.

Thanks in advance.

~Kyna (who sometimes lurks...sometimes saves posts to read later and
sometimes even butts into the conversation)
 ----
ICQ#12859312
Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing, Supplies and Accessories
http://GranndGarb.com

http://TheMarketSquare.com
COMING SOON!! Ask for details about your selling space now.

----- Original Message -----
From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 1999 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?


>
> -Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
>
> At 07:32 PM 09/08/1999 , you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> >
> >           As I am not at the level of expertise most others seem to be.
I
> >read, I try, I learn...I lurk...thus, am I ... Carol
>
> What she said! :->
>
> Svanny
>
>
> Svanhildr  Valdimarsdottir     )O(
>    Barony of Gyldenholt, Kingdom of Caid
>   kittykat@primenet.com
>   ICQ: 12691776 (NyteRaevyn)
>   AIM: SvanhildrV
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:16:20 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>




> Does anyone know of any uses in medieval/renaissance periods of a
> lightweight wool such as a gabardine? It's really lovely material and if I
> was inclined to make myself a dress suit, it would be of this material. As
> it turns, I was intending to make some capes and trews from it and wanted
a
> heavier weight.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> ~Kyna (who sometimes lurks...sometimes saves posts to read later and
> sometimes even butts into the conversation)
You could make a cotehardie (14th cent) or Elizabethan.  How much do you
have?  If you have enough, it could make a beautiful houppleande.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:16:32 1999
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-Poster: VICKI@lib.uttyl.edu

Another lurker timidly raises her hand.....My name is Vicki Betts, and although
I'm a frequent poster on cw-reenactors, I only occasionally post a question
on h-costume.  I mostly do American Civil War era clothing, and my current
research interest is Confederate homespun dresses.  In fact, week after next
I have another research trip to Georgia and Tennessee (after Chickamauga) to
see dresses at Brenau University, Tallulah Gorge State Park, Museum of Appala-
chia, and a dress in private hands.  This will all go towards a slide show/
talk for a conference in Athens, GA, next summer.  When I'm not doing Civil
War, I range from the Texas War of Independence (1836) to Wild West (1889).
My main problem is that I tend to research too much and sew too little!

Vicki Betts
vbetts@gower.net
vicki@lib.uttyl.edu
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:31:08 1999
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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

>From a (mostly) lurker:
I lurk because--I guess I have to come out of the closet about this--I
don't sew! [gasp].  So I never have anything to contribute to the
technical discussions.   I'm a grad student (same age as you, Dianne,
and I'd love to hear from you off the list), working on the birth of
fashion in the fourteenth century.  I get tremendously valuable
information from all of you, and contribute when I can, but it's rare
that I have something to say that you guys don't already know!
Lauri

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:32:34 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 08:52:43 -0500
From: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
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-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

Carol, love it..."I lurk; therefore, I am!"

So here's my delurking question:  Can anyone refer me to (especially men's) Tudor
commercial patterns?  I'm no historian, and certainly don't have the huevos to call
myself a costumer, but am under the impression that most available are Elizabethan.
Specifically, I haven't found a pattern for the low-neck skirted jerkin worn over a
doublet, a la Henry's VIII's Holbein portrait.

There, that wasn't so hard!  Thanks, Renée (on digest)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:35:06 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990909021409.29925.rocketmail@web804.mail.yahoo.com> <4.1.19990908212353.073582a0@pop.primenet.com> <01a701befac4$5c3713c0$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com> <003101befac8$e114ea00$a3ee7ad1@pavilion>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

> -Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
> You could make a cotehardie (14th cent) or Elizabethan.  How much do you
> have?  If you have enough, it could make a beautiful houppleande.
> Andrea
>

I have 25 yards of charcoal gray and 25 of coco brown. So I know I have more
than enough. I was just so hesitant due to the weight. When compared to
heavy weight wools, this gabardine looks modern to me  :\

~Kyna

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 08:36:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 08:57:01 -0500
From: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
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-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

Megan, have you tried http://www.farthingales.on.ca/clasps.htm#busks ?

HTH, Renée (delurking for 2nd time today!)

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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 9/8/99 11:38:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
antiquity@adelphia.net writes:

> Penny asked if the lurkers were introverts.  I would have to say not 
> necessarily.  I am primarily a lurker (with an occasional post) and am 
> actually quite the extrovert. 

I am also a constant lurker who enjoys the various conversations and 
information I have gathered. The few posts I have made have received the most 
thoughtful, informative answers--thanks! 

As for being an introvert, HA! I am one of the most over-the-top extroverts 
you'd ever meet. I often just don't feel qualified or experienced enough to 
contribute much.

We lurkers may be quiet, but I, for one, love this list!

Dani G
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:06:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 07:18:58 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:52 AM 09/09/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
>
>Carol, love it..."I lurk; therefore, I am!"
                 Well, nearly...it was what I was playing on.  :-)
>So here's my delurking question:  Can anyone refer me to (especially
men's) Tudor
>commercial patterns? 
                 Check the Green Duck on-line catalog.  www.theducks.com.
I vouch for Jania and Derek...they're good businesspeople and also very
helpful--esp. Jania.  Good luck!

>There, that wasn't so hard!  Thanks, Renée (on digest)
                  Good to meet you...Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:08:07 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 07:20:41 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
In-Reply-To: <01f301befac8$06107e60$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com>
References: <19990909021409.29925.rocketmail@web804.mail.yahoo.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:34 AM 09/09/1999 -0400, you wrote: -Poster: "Kyna Grannd"
<kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
>I have 25 yards of charcoal gray and 25 of coco brown. So I know I have more
>than enough. I was just so hesitant due to the weight. When compared to
>heavy weight wools, this gabardine looks modern to me  :\
            It does, because that's the setting we are used to seeing it
in--but it drapes and hangs like a dream--I chose gabardine for my first
houppelande and have been very happy with it overall.  Gra/inne / Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:13:50 1999
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-Poster: Wayne&Bernice <wer@tiac.net>



We lurkers may be quiet, but I, for one, love this list!  Dani

And that goes for me also...Bernice


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:14:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 07:31:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Laughing Moon corset (was OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!)
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-Poster: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>

I guess I am one of the quiet ones here. Anyway, 

I bought the Laughing Moon pattern and I'm happy with
it so far, but I'm used to having to make adjustments.


I made the Dore style corset, the one without the bust
gores, and I started with my size--20. I shortened the
pattern pieces by 1" (because I am petite) and I ended
up taking it in 2" because I wanted to be able to lace
it tighter. The finished product gave me a nice
silhouette, but I still want to make more adjustments.
When laced up, there is a bigger gap in the lacing at
the bottom of the corset (at my hips), because I found
that if I lace it too tight in the hips, it cuts off
my circulation. It maybe could be a wee bit tighter in
the waist, too. I don't think it will be that hard to
make these adjustments. I found the pattern to be easy
to work with.

I also recently made the chemise, and it worked out
fine in my size without having to make any
adjustments. 

I think I would eventually like to put together an
1870s gown, but for what purpose, I don't know. I
don't belong to a costumers guild or anything like
that. I'm just curious about this period (and many
others). My husband thinks it's weird that I go
through all the effort to make something that I end up
wearing around the house.

Meep.

--- Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
> 
> meep.
> 
> No, really. I usually only post when I have
> something *specific* to say.
> That, or time to say it.
> 
> Georgia
> back to mostly lurking. when I start making my vict.
> corset, you'll hear
> from me all right.
> 
> actually... on that note.... I was planning to buy
> the pattern that Laughing
> Moon sell. Does anyone have experience with this?
> 
> http:www.lafnmoon.com (I think... please correct if
> I'm wrong)
> G
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

===
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:15:24 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 09:29:53 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Men's Tudor (was OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
References: <199909090234.UAA10480@net.indra.com> <37D7BBAB.3764A7A6@flash.net>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

"V. Renee Bedford" wrote:
> 
> So here's my delurking question:  Can anyone refer me to (especially
> men's) Tudor commercial patterns?  I'm no historian, and certainly
> don't have the huevos to call myself a costumer, but am under the
> impression that most available are Elizabethan.
> Specifically, I haven't found a pattern for the low-neck skirted
> jerkin worn over a doublet, a la Henry's VIII's Holbein portrait.

There are none by the Big Three yet but there *is* a Medieval
Miscellania pattern.  Check with Alter Years & Renaissance Times...I've
also see it elsewhere but can't remember offhand and I'm right in the
middle of sewing a Girl Scout leader uniform, making brownie name tags
and assorted other things while trying to find all the lost items around
the house and figuring out how to pay for two root canals!  If you can
size up at all it's also in Holkeboer's book but you'll have to tweak
the pattern more depending on the person for whom you are fitting it.

Kat
the exhausted!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:20:53 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 07:36:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
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-Poster: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>

I bought the busk for my Laughing Moon corset at
Greenberg and Hammer and I think it's a 12" busk. They
also had 14". I think that the pattern might call for
13" and I couldn't find that anywhere. 12" works ok
for me because I am petite and I shortened the pattern
anyway. I am not at home to check dimensions on things
so I THINK that's what I used. Farthingale's seems to
have a bigger selection:

http://www.farthingales.on.ca/clasps.htm#busks

but I've never ordered from them.

--- Megan McHugh <mmchugh@starpower.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> 
> >actually... on that note.... I was planning to buy
> the pattern that
> Laughing
> >Moon sell. Does anyone have experience with this?
> 
> 
> I just bought the pattern and am planning on getting
> around to it soon.
> Does anyone have a good source for the busk closure
> pictured on the pattern
> envelope?  Greenberg and Hammer show one in their
> catalog, but say they have
> only 4 hooks.  The one pictured has at least 6
> (pattern is not in front of
> me at the moment).
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

===
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 09:46:55 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: BlueMoonYD@aol.com

    Um, hi, my name's Yvonne, and I'm a lurker. Last time I did the 
personality test I was almost evenly balanced between introvert and 
extrovert. 
    I'm trying to stop making costumes to sell and actually make things for 
me, but I've discovered through this list that I have a lot to learn about 
accuracy.
    I do have a question, though. When I was in London this summer, I was 
told the Museum of London had just found the burial site of a noble Roman 
woman circa 2nd century AD in Spitalfields. Has anyone heard anything more 
about this?
    Thanks for all the wonderful information!
                                    Yvonne
    
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 08:19:22 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
References: <19990909021409.29925.rocketmail@web804.mail.yahoo.com> <4.1.19990908212353.073582a0@pop.primenet.com> <01a701befac4$5c3713c0$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com> <003101befac8$e114ea00$a3ee7ad1@pavilion> <01f301befac8$06107e60$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I have 25 yards of charcoal gray and 25 of coco brown. So I know I have more
> than enough. I was just so hesitant due to the weight. When compared to
> heavy weight wools, this gabardine looks modern to me  :\

Actually in medieval through elizabethan times, fine wool was very much the norm
for the higher classes.  Heavy rough wool is the figment of the imagination of
Hollywood etc...  If I had that much I would make a cotehardie, a houppeland,
and elizabethan, two light cloaks for warmer weather, some trews, and a blanket
or two for my bed.  heh heh.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 10:35:39 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Delurking Day
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 08:52:14 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Well, I delurk sometimes, mostly to ask questions.  I don't generally answer
them because at lot of them have to do with Medieval, Renaissance and
Elizabethan and I don't know enough about those times periods to help
anyone.  I'm more of a Jack-of-all-Trades, Master-of-None.  I have an
interest in all time periods, but I'm not an expert in any one.

I'm currently working on a reproduction of the Titanic Jump Dress, which I
hope to finish by Christmas time so I can wear it to my husband's company
party.  I have to admit, though, I was getting a bit obsessive the other day
when I couldn't find the EXACT buttons that I needed and I was on the
Internet for hours and driving around to every store with buttons that I
could find, so I decided to make them from some buttons that were close.
Glad I did too, because they are exactly what I wanted.

I have been making costumes, probably since I was 10, with varying degrees
of authenticity :)  I have made everything from Egyptian (when I was 10, not
very historically accurate) to Xanadu (from the movie) to Grease (our high
school used to have an annual 50's dance), so a little bit of historical, a
little bit of Hollywood.  I've also done 1850s and 1870-1880s stuff too.

Now, if I can only find some red, satin ankle boots........


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 10:47:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 19:00:03 +0200
From: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>
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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------5D76B077645BA7C9C81F587D
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello !


> http://farthingales.on.ca has spoon busks & reg. hook-and-eye type busks.
> They also sell the pattern as a corset kit. I'm considering getting it, but
> it includes the german plastic boning. The lady I emailed said that it was
> much better than Rigilene, but I'm very wary.. Anyone have any experience
> with German plastic stuff?
>
> Kris
> delurking... :]
>
Well, this question gives me the opportunity to participate here again
after a break andcontribute something hopefully helpful ;-).
Yes, I have experiences with the German plastic boning, not
surprisingly, as I am in
Germany ;-).
We used this for 18th century corset boning and it worked really well.
It`s easy to cut if you have a cutter that`s sharp enough and it has got
a smooth surface
and can be well inserted into the sewn tunnels.
It`s much more rigid than Rigilene and makes the corset look more period
because the
plastic isn`t seen on the outside or inside the corset.
We tried to use it as a panier boning during our little baroque costume
workshop over
here as well, but for that purpose it`s too flexible and we had to take
steel instead.
So I would recommend it for corsets.

Hope this helps,
many greetings,
Diana


--------------5D76B077645BA7C9C81F587D
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<HTML>
Hello !
<BR>&nbsp;
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE><A HREF="http://farthingales.on.ca">http://farthingales.on.ca</A> has spoon busks &amp; reg. hook-and-eye type busks.&nbsp;
They also sell the pattern as a corset kit. I'm considering getting it, but
it includes the german plastic boning. The lady I emailed said that it was&nbsp;
much better than Rigilene, but I'm very wary.. Anyone have any experience&nbsp;
with German plastic stuff?

Kris
delurking... :]</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
Well, this question gives me the opportunity to participate here again
after a break andcontribute something hopefully helpful ;-).
<BR>Yes, I have experiences with the German plastic boning, not surprisingly,
as I am in
<BR>Germany ;-).
<BR>We used this for 18th century corset boning and it worked really well.
<BR>It`s easy to cut if you have a cutter that`s sharp enough and it has
got a smooth surface
<BR>and can be well inserted into the sewn tunnels.
<BR>It`s much more rigid than Rigilene and makes the corset look more period
because the
<BR>plastic isn`t seen on the outside or inside the corset.
<BR>We tried to use it as a panier boning during our little baroque costume
workshop over
<BR>here as well, but for that purpose it`s too flexible and we had to
take steel instead.
<BR>So I would recommend it for corsets.

<P>Hope this helps,
<BR>many greetings,
<BR>Diana
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------5D76B077645BA7C9C81F587D--



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 11:42:41 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 09:55:54 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Wool gabardine/Lurkfest 9.9.99
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Kyna, the lightweight wool you have sounds to me like a wonderful fabric
for cotehardies, houppelandes, Burgundians, Tudor, Flemish, and
Elizabethan.  The weave is not out of time for those, although what exact
documentation exists for those garments in that weave is beyond my
knowledge.  I do know that our modern wools are, on average, heavier and
fuzzier than is right for many garments.  I'd say you have an asset rather
than a liability!

It's fun to hear from the quieter list members.  In particular, the birth
of fashion in the 14th century sounds like a great topic, Lauri.  Tell us more!

Leslie

"Yeah, you know, Flemish.  From Flemland."  
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 13:03:16 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Lurking & Learning, 9/9/99
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-Poster: MargEvaPor@aol.com

In solidarity with the other so-called "introverts", I shall speak out today.
    I am a very satisfied member of this listserve.  Although I can claim 
significant historical knowledge of costume--my very first costume book was 
James Laver's "Concise History" of, purchased at Williamsburg when I was 
about 10 yrs old--I must admit a shameful ignorance of sewing.  During my 
years of theatre training I studied costume design, but was too lazy to 
participate in costume construction.  Nowadays, as writer and social 
historian, my focus is British and Celtic cultures, roughly from the 
Elizabethan through the Victorian eras.  I concentrated primarily on fashion 
and jewellery, until research for my 10th historical romance novel forced me 
into some rather intensive study of textile manufacture [printed linen, late 
18th century].  I suspect my most recent post to this list was close to a 
year ago, when I needed info about how to access items in storage at the V&A 
in London.  [My experiences while there, and at Bath, far exceeded my highest 
expectations.]
    I've never belonged to SCA.  I occasionally attend Regency or Georgian 
era costume balls, mostly in connection with writers' conferences, and I have 
a little experience in period dancing.  Because I can't make my own costumes, 
I create a design and a costumer takes it from there.
    Also, I purchase books from R.L. Shep, and am really jazzed to see that 
name pop up on the list from time to time.
    Many thanks for the shared wisdom and knowledge here, which I find 
entirely fascinating and extremely useful!
Cheers,
Margaret Evans Porter
http://members.aol.com/MargEvaPor/
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: victorian manners book
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 19:35:45 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

> ><< n it a "wild west" bad guy questions the child with
> > "Would you like me to blow a hole in your head?"  >>
> >
> >Of course the proper Victorian reply is:
> >
> >"Oh my goodness no! [curtsey] But thank you very much for asking."
> 
> 
> <::snort::>  Not fair!  Now I have to wipe Diet Pepsi off my monitor!
> 
OK, but wasn't it worth the chuckle. Thanks, Albert, for making me laugh
after a stressful day,

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 12:00:14 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 10:01:39 +0000
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-Poster: Annette M Allen <annetteallen@juno.com>

Maybe we don't feel as qualified to speak on many of
the issues as some of you...  I enjoy my "morning
mail", but usually by the time I think I might reply to
something, someone else already has...
(Hey, maybe that introverted "pause for thought" DOES
have something to do with it....  Hmmm...)

-Annette

On Wed, 8 Sep 1999 20:20:15 -0400 "Penny Ladnier"
<penny.creative.outlets@erols.com> writes:
> 
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> 
> Are our lurkers introverts????
> 
> From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
> <http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
> "Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given 
> the
> right forum. They've found that the internet can help them 
> communicate in
> their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for 
> thought
> and analysis. "
> 
> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make 
> Thursday,
> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and 
> let the
> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!
> 
> Later... Penny (One of the Extros, along with Margo, Charlene <both 
> of you>,
> R.L. Shep, Sally, Sarah, Albert Cat, Jennie, Drea, Fran, gee, if I 
> left any
> of you extros out, I'm sorry.  This is the last you will hear from 
> me until
> 9/10/99)
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> 
>
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>, <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.1.19990909094702.035bad40@mail.canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Thank You WAS Re: Wool
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 13:07:04 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Thanks to everyone that's been responding!  Sheesh...I've been going by what
I see at fairs and reenactments. I guess that considering the fact that the
wool blends which are heavier, are also less expensive, it's no surprise
that it is the choice of many other merchants.

I'm *REALLY* excited about this wool now. I have a total of 75 yards
including the black watch plaid worsted gabardine.

I'm thinking along the lines of a few cotehardies and houpelandes and
possibly an Elizabethan  for myself (I'm in dire need of new garb but I keep
putting it off until "after this next fair" or "after the Christmas rush"
etc. ::sighs::)

I'll let everyone know how these come out. I can see how with the
drapability of this fabrice that the houpelands and cotehardies will be
especially nice.

~Kyna


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From: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
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-Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>

Hi all...

I'm defering to the greater knowledge of the list to help this lurker
out of a jam.  My husband needs his officer's frock coat finished by
Wednesday and I have no idea as to the type and width of the braid used
in the Austrian Knots on the Confederate frock coats.  Can someone help
me out?  Also, how was the stuff attached to the coats?

Thanks....

MeriBeth
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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


------ =_NextPart_000_01BEFAC0.BAA394A0
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I too, was just now fantasizing about having that much wonderful wool to play with...is there a support group?  ;->

Carrie

-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I have 25 yards of charcoal gray and 25 of coco brown. So I know I have more
> than enough. I was just so hesitant due to the weight. When compared to
> heavy weight wools, this gabardine looks modern to me  :\

Actually in medieval through elizabethan times, fine wool was very much the norm
for the higher classes.  Heavy rough wool is the figment of the imagination of
Hollywood etc...  If I had that much I would make a cotehardie, a houppeland,
and elizabethan, two light cloaks for warmer weather, some trews, and a blanket
or two for my bed.  heh heh.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 12:48:31 1999
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

Thank you to all who sent suggestions on the corset "redistribution"
problem, both personally and to the list.  I have several things to try
now.

I have another question for when I get past that and finally start working
on the Pelican gown.  What method would you all suggest for the slashes in
the sleeve head?  I understand they were sometimes cut and waxed but I'm
leaning toward facing each one.  Even if some of them are slightly on the
bias they look too long to just cut and leave as is.

thanks,
lisa

Lisa Leong        *       <|
lisaleon@hawaii.edu	  .^.  *
		     *  .=.=.=.       *
	    *    <|     ^V V V^    <|  
	       \^ ^ ^/   |   |   \^ ^ ^/
  	        |   |^^^^|   |^^^^|   |  
	        | []       []      [] |  
		| ":":":":...:":":":" | 
             ~~~|________[oIo]________|~~~   
            ~~~~~~~    ~~~~~~~~~     ~~~~~~
                   ~~~~~         ~~~~~


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:06:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 13:20:06 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
In-Reply-To: <37D7E77D.C66B6B9@zebra.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

My confederate buddie needs to know what rank your husband is.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 9 Sep 1999, Meribeth McCombs wrote:

> Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 11:59:41 -0500
> From: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
> 
> 
> -Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
> 
> Hi all...
> 
> I'm defering to the greater knowledge of the list to help this lurker
> out of a jam.  My husband needs his officer's frock coat finished by
> Wednesday and I have no idea as to the type and width of the braid used
> in the Austrian Knots on the Confederate frock coats.  Can someone help
> me out?  Also, how was the stuff attached to the coats?
> 
> Thanks....
> 
> MeriBeth
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:13:09 1999
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-Poster: rima@anet.net

someone asked:

>Does anyone have a good source for the busk closure pictured on the pattern
>envelope?

The most extensive collection of corset stuff I've EVER seen is at Richard
the Thread.   Floor to ceiling busks.

check 'em out at http://richardthethread.com

They also have the only Restoration era patterns I've ever seen.

Rima


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-Poster: rima@anet.net

>My next project is an Italian Renaissance 'camisa {spelling?],
undergown, and overgown.  I have med.-dk. blue cotton velveteen [easy to
>work with, natural fiber, &c.] for the overgown.  I intend to make the
chemise of the finest linen I can find.  Anyone care to suggest an
>appropriate fabric for the undergown and appropriate trim?  I was thinking
possibly of a cream color...maybe brocade?   When did moire became
>fashionable--not until much later, did it?  And might be too lightweight?
I live in an area known for getting up to 110 degrees F. in the summer
>sometimes [it's now in the 90's daily], and down as far as the 60's-70's
evenings.  Or in the wintertime between [degrees F. again] 40's - freezing.
>  For any suggestions, thank you in advance for lending your expertise to
>my cause.  -- Carol / Gra/inne


I've done a bunch of Italian Renaissance gowns with tie-on sleeves, so you
can lose 'em in the summer.   If you can find really fine linen for the
undergown, you won't roast too badly.

I've also been toying with doing two sets of sleeves for the same gown -
one with full length lace-up sleeves, and the other with the segemented
sleeves, which might be cooler, even if they're long.

Might work for you, Carol!

Rima


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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Corsets w/ straps, 1886 bustle
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 11:28:30 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


Just joined the list yesterday - back again after a many years hiatus - only
to find it's de-lurk day.

>What's next?
The 1886 mega-bustle gown. For dancing, of course.  Here's the question.
Having looked at "Corsets & Crinolines", Cunnington's Brief History, and
other books on unmentionables, I see no bustle specifically for the "chicken
butt" look.

Here's the question: What makes the upward pointy bit? Is it a mound of
draping that's part of the dress?  An extra appliance or padding added to
the typical bustle? Some arcane bustle contraption that is so atypical that
surveys dont include it?

I have an vintage 1886 pattern and "the mound of draping" answer is not
allowed for in the cut/layout/hang.  Your helpful hints on books, pics, mags
& lit to reference graciously accepted.

>Corsets w/ straps
The straps are there in the early corset as the corsets are built in the
flat & are short waisted.  The straps help them stay up where they should
be, doing the job they should be doing. 19th c corsets, w/ curves &
waistlines dont tend to ride up or down - no strap needed. If your 19th c
corset does shift, chances are it doesnt fit or there is an imbalance in the
way it's tied.)
Likely I'm repeating something somebody said earlier, before I was on the
digest list.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:17:13 1999
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From: Cindy Brown <cbrown@sisnet.ssku.k12.ca.us>
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-Poster: Cindy Brown <cbrown@sisnet.ssku.k12.ca.us>

Hello...

	I've asked a number of questions during the past 2 years and have
always been dazzled by the brilliant answers and suggestions.  A lurker?
Yes.  An active list user?  That, too.  Thanks to all of you.  I read 
the messages daily!

Cindy Brown
Costume Mistress
Siskiyou Performing Arts Center

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:24:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 14:37:07 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

In keeping with today's theme, another introvert ventures out with a comment. 
:-)

Re: Georgia's question about the Laughing Moon corset pattern -- I built my 
first corset last month using this pattern.  I made the Dore Straight Seam 
out of coutil, with an outside layer of moire.  I followed their suggestions 
of making a muslin and doing two test fittings.  I had to trim back the 
underarm areas about 1/2" - 3/4", but other than that, it went together 
smoothly and easily, even with feline interference.  But, then I was sorta 
paranoid about screwing the whole thing up, so did everything by the rules, 
tracing out all lines and markings and all the other stuff that I usually 
don't do with the rest of my projects.

One suggestion, though -- trace out the pattern onto butcher paper, if you 
weren't planning to already.  

--Jen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:24:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 13:38:51 -0500
From: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
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To: h-costume@indra.com, ches@io.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
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-Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>

Hi... he's a colonel.

MeriBeth

ches@io.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: ches@io.com
> 
> My confederate buddie needs to know what rank your husband is.
> 
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> ches@io.com
> 
> On Thu, 9 Sep 1999, Meribeth McCombs wrote:
> 
> > Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 11:59:41 -0500
> > From: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
> > Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
> >
> >
> > -Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
> >
> > Hi all...
> >
> > I'm defering to the greater knowledge of the list to help this lurker
> > out of a jam.  My husband needs his officer's frock coat finished by
> > Wednesday and I have no idea as to the type and width of the braid used
> > in the Austrian Knots on the Confederate frock coats.  Can someone help
> > me out?  Also, how was the stuff attached to the coats?
> >
> > Thanks....
> >
> > MeriBeth
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:29:51 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 14:43:18 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

Supplies! Duh!  *smacks head*  I knew I forgot something!  I got my supplies 
from Farthingale's.  Busk (6 hook to answer Megan's question), bones, coutil, 
everything.  I faxed the order out one evening, and Linda, the owner, called 
the next morning to let me know that one item was out of stock and to suggest 
alternatives.  She then shipped it out that day and I had it in less than a 
week, start to finish.

She's in Canada, so at first glance, the prices seem higher than other 
places, but for US customers, expect about a 30% discount off of what's 
listed because of the exchange rate.

No affiliation, just a very satisfied customer, 
--Jen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:39:52 1999
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>


--------------34B77FF0E4AE2301DB74B51B
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Has anyone had any experience with Richard the Threads patterns? It's quite hard to tell from the drawings what the
finished product is supposed to look like (at least to me). I want to make sure that the patterns I buy are as
historically accurate as possible, since I don't yet know enough to alter patterns for accuracy. Thanks for your help,
folks!

Julie
schuck@vci.net

The most extensive collection of corset stuff I've EVER seen is at Richard
the Thread.   Floor to ceiling busks.

check 'em out at http://richardthethread.com

They also have the only Restoration era patterns I've ever seen.

--------------34B77FF0E4AE2301DB74B51B
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Has anyone had any experience with Richard the Threads patterns? It's quite
hard to tell from the drawings what the finished product is supposed to
look like (at least to me). I want to make sure that the patterns I buy
are as historically accurate as possible, since I don't yet know enough
to alter patterns for accuracy. Thanks for your help, folks!
<p>Julie
<br>schuck@vci.net
<p><i>The most extensive collection of corset stuff I've EVER seen is at
Richard</i>
<br><i>the Thread.&nbsp;&nbsp; Floor to ceiling busks.</i><i></i>
<p><i>check 'em out at <A HREF="http://richardthethread.com">http://richardthethread.com</A></i><i></i>
<p><i>They also have the only Restoration era patterns I've ever seen.</i></html>

--------------34B77FF0E4AE2301DB74B51B--

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Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Well, I have made that type of skirted jerkin and it is easy....god forbid I
should state this but the jerkin pattern in the tudor medieval miscalliany
is pretty good. Just don't bother with the instructions. As for the doublets
in this era they are basically the same as a later period doublet but
without the skirting or tabs on the bottom. Although, skirting comes in with
the transitional clothes. If this is not enough information let me know.
Carol Ross

-----Original Message-----
From: V. Renee Bedford <salieri@flash.net>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, September 09, 1999 8:50 AM
Subject: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!



-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

Carol, love it..."I lurk; therefore, I am!"

So here's my delurking question:  Can anyone refer me to (especially men's)
Tudor
commercial patterns?  I'm no historian, and certainly don't have the huevos
to call
myself a costumer, but am under the impression that most available are
Elizabethan.
Specifically, I haven't found a pattern for the low-neck skirted jerkin worn
over a
doublet, a la Henry's VIII's Holbein portrait.

There, that wasn't so hard!  Thanks, Renée (on digest)

_________________________________________________________________


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:46:02 1999
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-Poster: Graham Hadfield <gj.hadfield@ukonline.co.uk>

Another one delurking

Although I don't post questions, I don't think I am much of an introvert.

I once travelled to London from the North East of England in full 17th
Century kit, with my 20 year old son who's a musketeer  - on the bus -
(didn't have time to change when we got there) nobody turned a hair - just
like the English - they just pretend that you're normal.  The following
year we used the train, it was faster.

It's fun wandering round the Tower in kit and watching the faces of the
tourists.

Jill
Sir Thomas Tyldesley's Regiment of Foote
Kings Army
English Civil War Society

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-Poster: Robin Hill <hill@uwyo.edu>


I never post to H-COSTUME because I never make historical costume
(unlike the other Robin, who contributes her expertise here). Saving
that for retirement, or free time, or carriage to a higher plane,
whichever comes first. But I sew extensively and sure enjoy hearing
about historical details and techniques.

I did sew my own doctoral hood, after drafting my own pattern, after
doing weeks of absorbing research on academic regalia.  I still make the
pattern available to anyone who wants to pay the cost of copying and
postage.

--- 
                   Robin Hill         hill@uwyo.edu        (307)766-5289
                     Department of Computer Science, University of Wyoming



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 13:51:28 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 15:04:37 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Med Misc/Period Patts for Guys
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

Oh, my!  My third post in one day!  The discussion of the MM/PP Tudor pattern 
made me remember a question I have.  How are the MM/PP men's patterns for 
fit?  Are they as bad as the women's?  Specifically, I'm looking for input on 
the cotehardie pattern.  My blossoming garb-sl*t of a fiance picked the thing 
up at VA Ren Faire and would like one for fall.

Thanks!
--Jen
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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>
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Subject: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 14:48:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BEFAD2.535F8E40
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In "The Undercover Story,"  a beautiful show catalogue from FIT in 1982, =
on page 100 (in case you have the book) is a picture of a French lady of =
1870 in the very ACT of tucking. (Tucking, I said! Somehow that looks =
awful when written.) In the same book (page 105) a French postcard of =
1900 shows the same procedure. In "20,000 Years of Fashion" by Boucher =
see illustrations 1085 and 1090 (page 403 in my edition.) The drawers of =
the lady in the blue corset (Manet 1877) look so full you have to =
believe it's because of a tucked chemise rather than just combinations. =
It seems all my examples are French. Does this help?

Martha  (I just joined, so am I a lurker?)

   That reminds me of an unanswered question that a few of us were =
discussing on another list awhile back (can't remember which one).  The =
question was something to the effect of did women of late 1800's (1880's =
or 90's) tuck their chemise into their drawers, or leave them out?  One =
poster insisted that they left them out, although I saw a picture of a =
chemise tucked into the drawers in one of my books.  Was it the option =
of the wearer or was there a trend?  The poster with the question wanted =
actual documentation.   I am interested to know the answer to this from =
someone with more expertise on the subject. Don't mean to put you on the =
spot, Dianne.  This question is open to anyone with a comment. =20

  Thanks! =20

  Erica Pence
  Robes of Antiquity
  www.robesofantiquity.com
  Online store coming soon!

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BEFAD2.535F8E40
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In "The Undercover Story,"&nbsp; a =
beautiful show=20
catalogue from FIT in 1982, on page 100 (in case you have the book) is a =
picture=20
of a French lady of 1870 in the very ACT of tucking. (Tucking, I said!=20
Somehow&nbsp;that looks awful when written.) In the same book (page 105) =
a=20
French postcard of 1900 shows the same procedure. In "20,000 Years of =
Fashion"=20
by Boucher see illustrations 1085 and 1090 (page 403 in my edition.) The =
drawers=20
of the lady in the blue corset (Manet 1877) look so full you have to =
believe=20
it's because of a tucked chemise rather than just combinations. It seems =
all my=20
examples are French. Does this help?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Martha&nbsp; (I just joined, so am I a=20
lurker?)</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;That reminds me of an unanswered question =
that a few=20
  of us were discussing on another list awhile back (can't remember =
which=20
  one).&nbsp; The question was something to the effect of did women of =
late=20
  1800's (1880's or 90's) tuck their chemise into their drawers, or =
leave them=20
  out?&nbsp; One poster insisted that they left them out, although I saw =
a=20
  picture of&nbsp;a chemise tucked into the drawers in one of my =
books.&nbsp;=20
  Was it the option of the wearer or was there a trend?&nbsp; The poster =
with=20
  the question wanted actual documentation.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am =
interested to=20
  know the answer to this from someone with more expertise on the =
subject. Don't=20
  mean to put you on the spot, Dianne.&nbsp; This question is open to =
anyone=20
  with a comment.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks!&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
  store coming soon!</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 14:09:40 1999
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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Lurking
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 20:08:14 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

Hi all
As it's non-lurking day on the list...here I am
My name's Emma & I live in Stratford-upon-Avon in England.
I love the list and get lots out of it without ften finding the <need> to
post myself.
I make Tudor & medieval kit for myself and my partner & our friends who are
involved in re-enactment in England - it's a growing line at the moment.
I've only been doing this for a few years, but before that I made theatre
costumes & made modern clothes so i've done a bit of sewing.
The re-enactment group I belong to spends 3 whole weeks in kit every summer
living as Tudors (until the punters go home!) so all clothing has to be as
accurate as possible & stand up to being worked in.  And I do mean work.
I work with horses - cart horses as well as riding horses and my partner is
an archer so the clothes have to be really sturdy - nothing worse than
splitting your hose as you bend down!
I've got lots of stuff out of lurking & will continue to do so - posting as
and when. If that's all right.  I'm not an introvert either, just tired at
the end of the day.

Good things
Emma

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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 12:28:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Alright!  I just can't STAND it anymore!  There is NO
WAY I can keep my mouth shut for a WHOLE DAY!

*phew*  I feel better.

I actually have a very important question that has a
time constraint, or I would have kept quiet until
tomorrow...

I bought the 1920's hat pattern from Past Patterns...
I made the large size, and it is too small for my
head!  Argh!  Has anyone used this pattern?  If so,
did you run into this problem, and how did you fix it?
 Please help... we are putting on a 1920's coctail
party on Saturday night and I REALLY need this.

Oh, and thanks for the laugh.

> in the very ACT of tucking. (Tucking, I said!
> Somehow that looks awful when written.) In the same

Sarah

__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <324ebbc8.25095ec5@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Med Misc/Period Patts for Guys
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 12:51:37 -0700
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> Oh, my!  My third post in one day!  The discussion of the MM/PP Tudor
pattern
> made me remember a question I have.  How are the MM/PP men's patterns for
> fit?  Are they as bad as the women's?  Specifically, I'm looking for input
on
> the cotehardie pattern.  My blossoming garb-sl*t of a fiance picked the
thing
> up at VA Ren Faire and would like one for fall.

I have it, somewhere.  It's terrible unless you are good at taking
measurements and then adjusting the pattern to suit.  It is also not period
as the sleeve is made like a modern suit sleeve so you can't raise your arm
without raising the entire coat.  Not a good situation if you use one of the
period methods of holding the hose up (tying them to the coat.)

Dan

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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 12:57:57 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:13 PM 09/09/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>I too, was just now fantasizing about having that much wonderful wool to
play with...is there a support group?  ;->
>
>Carrie
                 Right here, I suspect...although this is kind of a combo
all-in-one 'get you out of trouble', 'get you into trouble' kinda place.
:-)   Carol, who must admit to sudden surges of fabric/attire lust while
reading this group...and has been very grateful to all those who have
answered my questions and lent their expertise to my need...
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 15:01:21 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #543
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 11:16 AM 9/9/99 -0700, you wrote:

>
>I've done a bunch of Italian Renaissance gowns with tie-on sleeves, so you
>can lose 'em in the summer.   If you can find really fine linen for the
>undergown, you won't roast too badly.
>
>I've also been toying with doing two sets of sleeves for the same gown -
>one with full length lace-up sleeves, and the other with the segemented
>sleeves, which might be cooler, even if they're long.
>
>Might work for you, Carol!
>
>Rima

I agree!  My only Italian Ren gown is golden yellow brocade with
wine-colored trim, and I made 2 different sleeves to tie on, as well as a
set of cuffs, for *really* hot weather, and I love it.  It's nearly as fun
as having 2 or 3 different gowns, but with only a fraction of the work!

Doris, de-lurking for the second time in a week!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 14:51:49 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 13:07:25 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede stuff
that makes your feet sweat, and I need to change to color to red.  Does
anyone know if there is a way I can dye or paint this type of material
without ruining it?


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 14:56:54 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 13:07:28 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Moorish/Middle Eastern question
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Could the person who asked about Moorish and related costuming please write
me offlist?  I have some good info and class notes, but am too swamped
right now to dig them out... and I'll forget in a few hours if not prodded...

Leslie
leslie@canfield.com
"And then you ease this piece into the... um... what was I talking about?
What is this fabric doing in my hands?"
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 13:02:00 -0700
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From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Thank You WAS Re: Wool
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Kyna wrote:
<<I'm *REALLY* excited about this wool now. I have a total of 75 yards 
<<including the black watch plaid worsted gabardine.

Dangit, what I SHOULD have said was, "You'll never find a legitimate use
for that, but I'll buy it from you..."

Grins,
Leslie
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 13:22:29 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede stuff
> that makes your feet sweat, and I need to change to color to red.  Does
> anyone know if there is a way I can dye or paint this type of material
> without ruining it?

wow.  I suspect you are stuck with black shoes.  Not because of the
fabric/materials but because once something is black, it's pretty much black
for life.  Unless you have bleach and then it's probably going to be gray.  I
could, of course, be mistaken about this.  You could certainly paint it with a
paint that would cover it but the paint would probably ruin the shoes in the
end.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 14:37:24 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Farthingales?  e-mail addy?  snail mail addy?  More information, please.

Kathlene

----------
> From: AnnoraK@aol.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
> Date: Thursday, September 09, 1999 12:43 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com
> 
> Supplies! Duh!  *smacks head*  I knew I forgot something!  I got my
supplies 
> from Farthingale's.  Busk (6 hook to answer Megan's question), bones,
coutil, 
> everything.  I faxed the order out one evening, and Linda, the owner,
called 
> the next morning to let me know that one item was out of stock and to
suggest 
> alternatives.  She then shipped it out that day and I had it in less than
a 
> week, start to finish.
> 
> She's in Canada, so at first glance, the prices seem higher than other 
> places, but for US customers, expect about a 30% discount off of what's 
> listed because of the exchange rate.
> 
> No affiliation, just a very satisfied customer, 
> --Jen
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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-Poster: rima@anet.net

Julie asks:

>Has anyone had any experience with Richard the Threads patterns? It's
>quite hard to tell from the drawings what the
>finished product is supposed to look like (at least to me). I want to make
>sure that the patterns I buy are as
>historically accurate as possible, since I don't yet know enough to alter
>patterns for accuracy. Thanks for your help,
>folks!

I just bought Restoration Man and built myself the coat.   OK, so the
pattern's sized for a man (and I'm a lady) and their instructions STINK.
Patterns are intended for professional costumers (which I am NOT) who
already know what they're doing.

Having said all that, it worked pretty well.  I used leftover fabric from
two curtain projects - yummy green brocade lined with greenish gold silk
dupioni - so now I know what changes to make when I'm actually spending
money on fabric.

BTW, when I tried to buy this pattern at Alter Years, they wanted $60
because it was "special order".  So when I found RTT on the web and
discovered they were a mere 1/2 mile from me, I called them directly.  They
print the patterns to order, so they need a little notice, but I paid $32
instead of $60.

This is also the project where I learned that (in the garmet district,
anyway) it's cheaper to buy a gross of buttons than it is to buy 50 of 'em.
;-D

Hope this helps.

Rima


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:36:03 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I make tie-on sleeves for both Ren & Tudor....it can totally change the
look of an outfit and it allows you to just take the things off when it
gets waaaaaaaay too hot or to give one as a favor to a fighter. <wink>

Kat
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

AnnoraK@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Oh, my!  My third post in one day!  The discussion of the MM/PP Tudor
> pattern made me remember a question I have.  How are the MM/PP men's
> patterns for fit?  Are they as bad as the women's?  Specifically, I'm
> looking for input on the cotehardie pattern.  My blossoming garb-sl*t
> of a fiance picked the thing up at VA Ren Faire and would like one for
> fall.

The Laurel of the Household when I was in SCA used both the men's
cotehardie pattern and the tunic pattern from MM and didn't have any
trouble...otoh she *always* made the inital one out of muslin and then
adjusted the butcher paper pattern to fit (an easy way to do this is to
pin and then cut out your seam allowance past the pins...or at least,
that's what *I* do! <grin>).  She told me to never, ever read the
instructions because they read like Greek (assuming one does not speak
nor read Greek), just look at the pictures and never, ever cut the
pattern...use butcher paper or newsprint or opened out paper bags etc to
make the pattern pieces (and make sure you put the date and measurements
of the person on the piece as well as the piece number) then when you've
got it fitted properly and the pattern adjusted, shove it in a manila
envelope with the date, person's name, pattern type etc.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:41:05 1999
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From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #542
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

>The most extensive collection of corset stuff I've EVER seen is at Richard
>the Thread.   Floor to ceiling busks.

Only because we're de-lurking today....

I read that, and immediately pictured busks about 10 feet long.

And that's why I generally lurk...  :)

Donna Kenton

Visit my web page!  http://www.dabbler.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:45:36 1999
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-Poster: Dianne Kristoff <vestido@mb.sympatico.ca>

To "K & J Hopkins"

Farthingales web address is       .....     farthingales.on.ca

It is a Canadian company from which I have had excellent service in the
past.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:47:23 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 16:59:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST:De-Lurking
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-Poster: Natekakar@aol.com

Lurking?  I've been accused of lurching  (and even lunching!), on occasion, 
but lurking?......

I don't contribute much for several reasons --

  1)  I don't have a great deal of time to spend on-line, and most of that 
time is taken
      up just READING the messages......

  2)  Most of the messages aren't dealing with timeframes or garments I have 
      much knowledge about or interest in......

   3)  Frequently, when I DO find something that I could respond to --- I go 
down several more messages and find that someone has already answered it!

K.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:47:24 1999
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Another one delurking
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 16:54:10 -0400 
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

Extrovert - introvert both at the same time!  Always with an interest in
costume, I am just within the last couple of years getting to put it in
practice (beyond those Halloween costumes).  My adult daughter is a
volunteer at an Abraham Lincoln site and I've been doing research and sewing
her outfits from the 1830-1840's.  I've really enjoyed the discussion on
altering patterns for the modern figure and graphing from books.  I've been
sewing since childhood, but finding it very rewarding now that I'm working
on these outfits and have gained the courage to experiment with the style
and fitting.

I collect old photos (tintypes, etc.) for the fashions, books, patterns,
fashion magazines (pre-1915 but occasionally 1930's - 50's, just because...)
and old sewing machines too.  Would love to take some costuming classes
someday.   Enjoy combining needlework with the early 19th century clothing
and accessories.

Since I'm not involved in SGA, I too have to look up definitions and work to
understand what is being discussed, but enjoy searching my art books and
modern copy of the Book of Hours to see the clothing that is mentioned.  I
have nothing to add to these discussions, but enjoy reading them.  I too, am
on the digest so questions are most often already answered by the time I
read them.

I see several familiar names on some of the other lists that I'm on:
h-needlework; sewinghistoric; vintage clothing

Keep up the fun.  Scotty, back to cloaking.   

Connie Fairchild

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 15:48:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 17:01:49 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Med Misc/Period Patts for Guys
In-Reply-To: <37D81EBB.8ADB1534@home.com>
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

>otoh she *always* made the inital one out of muslin and then
>adjusted the butcher paper pattern to fit 

A trick I learned was to make the initial one out of gingham.  Make sure
it's the woven check, not the printed one.  It's more expensive than
muslin, but you can see the grain lines so much easier, which makes it
easier for me to use.

Donna Kenton




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 16:30:36 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Lurkers
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 17:44:14 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

I suppose I qualify as a lurker, even though I don't really think of 
myself as one.

I've been on the list about two years now.  I read the messages every 
day, but I have to admit that I mass-delete a lot of threads that focus 
on times/topics outside my area of interest.  (I'm in the SCA and I focus 
on early 15th Century France.)  Part of the reason is that I just get too 
much mail to read every thread.  The other part is that I've cultivated 
an active avoidance of anything that might encourage me to pick up a new 
hobby or conceive a new project.  I already have 2000 yards of fabric in 
my sewing room and an idea list that gets added to quicker than I can 
complete the projects that are already on it. :-)

I do occassionally post a question, and am always pleased with the 
knowledge level of the people on this list.  I have also been known to 
respond to other people's posts, but 95% of the time I find that by the 
time I finish catching up with the most recent posts, someone else has 
already said exactly what I would have.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Would regular red leather dye work on this, I wonder? Maybe call a
Tandy's or a shop which carries leather?


					Arlys

>> I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede
stuff
>> that makes your feet sweat, and I need to change to color to red.  
>Does  anyone know if there is a way I can dye or paint this type of 
>material without ruining it?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 17:33:44 1999
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From: Moonshadow <doroket@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Another lurker outed.
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-Poster: Moonshadow <doroket@yahoo.com>


Hello List, I too am a lurker!  I sew medieval period
garb for my family as we are involved with the SCA. 

I am enjoying reading all the comments from the
experts.  Believe me, I have learned a lot. I used to
sew just pillows and curtains, garb is so much more
fun!

We live near Knoxville, TN. My name is Dorothy  8^)

 
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

I fall somewhere in between "lurker" and "regular poster."  This is
partially because of time constraints, and partially because the period I
study (11th-14th century European, with a big emphasis on the 13th century;
although I also dabble in Norse and 16th century stuff) is not one of the
ones which seems to attract as many enthusiasts (especially the 13th
century, except for Henk, of course :-)

I have recently turned into a handsewing addict.  I've been spending time
perfecting a 13th century dress design, and trying to figure out when I'm
going to get a chance to try a 10-gore "Greenland" gown.  My husband and I
are in the midst of expanding our SCA merchanting business, and one of the
things I want to offer is high-end, authentic "central Middle Ages"
clothing--handsewn if people want it that way, with authentic patterning,
finishing techniques, and trimmings.  I'm always picking up tips and ideas
from this list.

I've just finished my doctorate in history, am getting ready for the great
academic job hunt, and in the meantime am working as an admin. assistant at
a bank.

Susan Carroll-Clark

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 17:46:49 1999
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From: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 16:00:37 PDT
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-Poster: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>


>-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
>On many paintings from the 1500s and 1600s, I noticed slashes in people's
>clothes through which the undergarment showed. These slashes were sometimes
>decorative (as for sleeves), but more often functional, to allow for ease
>without shaping tight garments around the knee, elbow, the knuckles of
>gloves, the hip, one time even the codpiece. Nowwhere was there an
>indication that the edges of these slashes were cared for in any way (so as
>not to fray). My theory is that outer garments were made of fulled wool,
>which doesn't fray.

I took an Ithra class (SCA) on late period clothing, and the instructor said 
many things :] I don't know if they're true or not, but here I go.

If you slash the fabric perfectly diagonally (is this "on the bias?"), it 
shouldn't fray. Especially when you do it to tightly woven fabrics.
Also, they didn't often *wash* their dress clothing, so the only way it 
would fray is through wear. And I don't think it was worn too often, either. 
At least, not every day. My teacher had some examples (ie. she made some 
clothes & passed them around) of slashed garments, and the slashes had only 
frayed about 1/4".

Of course, if you take a look at some of the German paintings, and you see 
the slashes from shoulder to waist, I would say that they would have *had* 
to line them in some way. I haven't studied that, becauseit's in men's 
garments (what I've seen), and I'm only concerned about women's clothing :]

HTH, or at least gives everyone something else to think about :]

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 17:49:34 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005701befafe$f059b280$22aca0d1@j9g8x8>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 00:02:22 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

If its the stuff I think it is that we have in the UK called Nubuck  a very
thin sliver of real leather stuck to a polymer base and the roughes up to
give a nap. Then the only thing that will work; stay for a while and not
degrade the backing so that it shreds from the inside is;;;; believe it or
not water colour paint , the proper artist stuff .. If the shoes have been
worn and picked up any veneer of dirt things get a bit iffy so you may have
to mix it with a water and avery small amount of acrylic medium;   Mix the
paint with lots of water and get it on quick in a big floos otherwise tyou
get water stain edges.  Two or three maybe more times;
If its not nubuck it wont work, unless they are Hush puppies;;; different
story altogether.
avoid shoe dies the spirit will destroy them unoticeably but then very
sudddenly as your foot warms them up , could be dangerous.
However my only experince of this is starting with light colours and then
making them dark; but you can usually turn them white by sweating a lot.
So you have to start by buying a new pair of shoes;
If its not nubuck its going to be a more manmade material  its going to have
various polymer bases so you have to watch with solvents but you might get
away with car paint aerosols, short burst from a distance build up slowly ;
too much solvent or propellant will make them peel; When finished let them
dry properly and then go over them gently with a stiff wire brush to bring
the nap up. still a long job.
Hope this helps.


Dave
+++++++++++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
----- Original Message -----
From: Broneske <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 1999 9:07 PM
Subject: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question


>
> -Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>
> I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede
stuff
> that makes your feet sweat, and I need to change to color to red.  Does
> anyone know if there is a way I can dye or paint this type of material
> without ruining it?
>
>
> Joan Broneske
> unicorn@softcom.net
> @-->----------------
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909090149_MC2-8418-E5B5@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Unlurking for 9-9-99 - long
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 00:32:21 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



 > -Poster: Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@compuserve.com>
>
> I'll have to pop up a day early, because I'll be one of those computer
> nerds baby-sitting the computers tomorrow for 9-9-99...  Actualy have a
few
> things to respond to on the current list anyway.
>
 Well I hope it went well. Its now  30 min into the day after and our
systems even the older ones got though with out any glitches.  As we were
going to  a lot of dancing around ,chanting and burning of incense we spent
the 28 hour shift in costume, just in case we all would be looking for a new
job today ; but every thing worked . Our Bbox, even,
 which usually goes down every night almost. so fromnow on we all should
work in costume.
Dave


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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <GHFDIFKDKGMDAAAA@shared1-mail.whowhere.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 00:23:13 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Have you found Dawn Wood at http://www.agesofelegance.com she does georgian
plus wedding stuff as well as historical.
To other listers that remember the thread long  ago about superfine? she
regularly buys from the factory so I will try and get her to remind me of
the name of the place as a couple of you did ask me at the time.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

>
> -Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
>
 . I've found a designer in the UK that makes very elaborate dresses
(wedding/special ocassion) if I can't manage to make one myself I'll resort
back to her I suppose. Her dresses are beautiful but you know there is
always one thng about a dress that just doesn't seem right, whether it be
colour or fabric, o!


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From: "Tara Stewart" <sioned@iname.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
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-Poster: "Tara Stewart" <sioned@iname.com>

Heyla all.  

I'm a die-hard lurker on most lists, because I either a) never feel like I have anything to add (or it's been added already by the time I get around to it); or b) don't feel like adding it anyway after I get home from work.  I'm here to read and learn. :)  History is a major area of interest for me, and clothing is just another facet that I find interesting.  I *love* reading some of the tangents that this list occasionally goes off on, and I have spent hours going over some of the links that have been posted.

Now back to lurking mode,
Tara  ;)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 18:26:44 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <fe0f7b4e.25092582@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members? Roman query
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 00:41:18 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Yvonne
check out their website for weekly updates on this and other find;
off hand it www.museumoflondon.com
but you will find it through any search on London really easy.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

>
> -Poster: BlueMoonYD@aol.com
>
>     I do have a question, though. When I was in London this summer, I was
> told the Museum of London had just found the burial site of a noble Roman
> woman circa 2nd century AD in Spitalfields. Has anyone heard anything more
> about this?
>     Thanks for all the wonderful information!
>                                     Yvonne
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>





>-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>

> I am currently writing up my Ph.D. thesis (which is in _mining_, not
>_costuming_) and don't have much _time_. I still have in my mind, when all
>this is over and I'm awaiting my baby, to take up the idea again of a new
>FAQ list.

 Barbara ,  Are you going to publish, will it be in English?; Mining history
is a bit of a pet subject of mine.To bring this back on topic--- I did once
have to research and provide some costumes for 17th century Cornish tin
miners and brought out a very thin long out of print booklet.
Dave
+++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 18:44:51 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 16:57:50 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

No I haven't tried her but I will look, thank you. The designer I found was Donna Salado. She has no official website but her collection s on..www,weddings.co.uk I think it is. Not sure I'll have to find it 

thanks for the suggestion though
---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 


>Have you found Dawn Wood at http://www.agesofelegance.com she does georgian
>plus wedding stuff as well as historical.
>To other listers that remember the thread long  ago about superfine? she
>regularly buys from the factory so I will try and get her to remind me of
>the name of the place as a couple of you did ask me at the time.
>Dave
>L.D.Mundy
>Editor.Heritage Matters
>
>>
>> -Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
>>
> . I've found a designer in the UK that makes very elaborate dresses
>(wedding/special ocassion) if I can't manage to make one myself I'll resort
>back to her I suppose. Her dresses are beautiful but you know there is
>always one thng about a dress that just doesn't seem right, whether it be
>colour or fabric, o!
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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-Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net

> >
> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > >
> > >_______________________________________________________________________________
> > > Thanks Dave for introducing me so nicely, here's who I am I trained as a fashion designer and worked in industry in yorkshire for a while ( where I'm from) but
> > > moved to London in 1986 to work at the costumiers Berman and Nathans,
> > > I've worked on loads of films both i n house and freelance, I've also
> > > worked at the Royal Opera House, taught costume making to drama students
> > > and every now and again design a fringe show. I have been self employed
> > > for 10 years next week and tend to live a frugal lifestyle as people
> > > don't respect costume makers as a real job and expect you to do things
> > > for peanuts as well as making it yesterday. In order to make a living
> > > you nedd a partner who has a decent income as there aren't enough hours
> > > in the day to sew. Unfortunately my other half is also selfemployed
> > > making metalwork for unifroms etc.( His latest claim to fame is making
> > > the head dresses for Amadala in Star Wars although he didn't know it
> > > until the film came out as the contract was so tight He's also just
> > > worked on Speilbergs Gladiators) so we starve together. I tend not to do
> > > much film work anymore as I can't fit in quick orders as I'm booked up
> > > 4-6 months in advance,last year I made the King of Norways 1608
> > > bodyguard which was a great honour. Unfortunately this doesn't leave
> > > much time to make for me. My re-enactment group recently put on an 18thc
> > > wedding and everyone had new frocks but me AND I helped them! I didn't
> > > even have time to buy the fabric so haven't a five minute excuse to sit
> > > down and do it now when I'm bored with uniforms.
> > > I hope thats answered your questions and look forward to talking to you
> > > all soon.
> >  www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk

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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

Wow!  So _this_ is why I had 137 messages today!  It's been fun to read
about all the folks we never hear from, so here's my short-version bio:
graduated a year ago with an MFA in costume design (undergrad in history)
and am now working as a cutter/draper at a small regional theatre and
designing on the side when possible.  I've also finally gotten into the
SCA, doing 16th century.  Once I've updated my website (in a few months...)
there will be pictures of that sort of thing.

I've been off the list for a little over a year and now finally have the
time to enjoy it once more.  It's great to be back!  I've been lurking so
far, but I'm sure you'll hear from me again eventually.

Melanie Schuessler
(and sometimes Melisande)

email to melanie@faucet.net
or visit at http://www.faucet.net/costume


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 19:09:03 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 17:24:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Hat for Simplicity Elizabethan
To: SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,
        Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Okay, what goes on your head when wearing the
Simplicity Elizabethan gown?  And remember, I am not a
hat maker!  Thanks.

===
Morgaine of Glastonbury 
MKA Kristen Morgaine Sieber
Barony of Aquaterra MoAS
Kingdom of An Tir
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

What if the Hokey Pokey IS what it's all about?
__________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 17:30:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Replying to digests
To: SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,
        Historic Needlework <h-needlework@ansteorra.org>,
        Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        An Tir list <steps@antir.sca.org>,
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Hi.  This is not a flame, so please don't flame me! 
When you reply to a digest, it is very helpful if you
change the subject line to what you are actually
discussing.  I get a lot of messages and time
necessitates that I automatically skip the messages
that say "RE: Digest #9999", even though I may be
missing something pertinent to my interests.  Thanks
for your time!

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
 _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 19:44:26 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Creating patterns from books (Janet Arnold, etc.)
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

Well, I said you'd be hearing from me, and here I am!

Here is another suggestion for scaling up patterns in books.  It's not as
accurate as plotting with CAD, but it requires no special equipment or
computer skills (well, a copy machine is helpful).  It's called radial
projection.

1.  Make a photocopy of the pattern in the book.
2.  Decide how many times larger it needs to be to be roughly the right
size (for example, 1/8" scale patterns will need to be eight times larger
to be their original size--though for some of us, that usually isn't big
enough).  Sometimes you will have to choose a dimension--I can usually make
things big enough around with the radial projection, but then will have to
correct later to make them tall enough (that's step 9).
3.  Cut the paper apart so that each pattern piece is on a separate piece
of paper, but leave a small margin around each pattern shape.  For each one,
4.  Tape the pattern piece to another piece of paper that you think (hope!)
will be large enough for the re-sized pattern.
5.  Pick a spot on the small pattern shape--could be in the center, or in
one corner if there's a nice straight edge somewhere on it--and make a
small dot there.
6.  Draw lines radiating from this point in all directions, making sure
that all major corners of the pattern shape have a line through them and
that you have more than one in each curve.
7.  For each line, measure precisely from the dot to the edge of the small
pattern shape, then multiply that number by the number of times you want to
enlarge the pattern.  Follow the line out to the new larger measurement and
make a dot there.  (Don't give in to the urge to round these numbers up or
down, or you will end up with very strange shapes!)
8.  Connect the dots, being careful to try and recreate the shapes of
curves accurately.
9.  Use this as a base pattern, correcting proportions, etc.

Happy Patterning!
Melanie

email to melanie@faucet.net
or visit at http://www.faucet.net/costume



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 19:32:32 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 17:43:14 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Replying to digests
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

This is not the day for me to be sending to h-costume - according to
Penny..... BUT not only do I agree with that but I find it very confusing
when people respond to a message and then change the subject completely but
leave the same subject line.
I mean what does washing diapers have to do with a subject line that says
*Wool Question*.    Absurd... no.  Some of them are that far off.  Not to
mention the sort of messages like *Thanks Suzy* which could have been sent
off list in the first place.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
>To: SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,Historic Needlework
<h-needlework@ansteorra.org>,Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,An Tir
list <steps@antir.sca.org>,SCA-Arts list <SCA-ARTS@raven.cc.ukans.edu>
>Subject: H-COST: Replying to digests
>Date: Thu, Sep 9, 1999, 5:30 PM
>

>
>-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
>
>Hi.  This is not a flame, so please don't flame me! 
>When you reply to a digest, it is very helpful if you
>change the subject line to what you are actually
>discussing.  I get a lot of messages and time
>necessitates that I automatically skip the messages
>that say "RE: Digest #9999", even though I may be
>missing something pertinent to my interests.  Thanks
>for your time!
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 19:49:05 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 20:08:32 -0500
From: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
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Subject: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep! MM/PP
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-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

Very nice pattern -- MM/PP Tudor #53.  Thanks for the reference...called my *real*
costumer friend, he had it, now his copy is in my little hands ready to be copied!

Thanks for delurking day, would've never written otherwise.

Are purses hist-cost?  If yes, take a deep breath and click:
www.therealmonicainc.com/  (Forgive me, but SURELY this is at least history?)
Delurk once, and I get carried away!  Thanks again, Renée

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 20:10:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 21:24:35 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hat for Simplicity Elizabethan
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/09/1999 8:27:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lady_gawain@yahoo.com writes:

<< 
 Okay, what goes on your head when wearing the
 Simplicity Elizabethan gown?  And remember, I am not a
 hat maker!  Thanks.
  >>

OR...HOW TO COVER A FELT HAT

I suppose the easiest thing, besides some pearls or something in your hair, 
might be a beret with a brim, thought to be honest, this is really earlier.
I made some lovely hats a while back using some cheap [$12 back then] Pilgrim 
hats I got through a masquerade costume shop. They were presses in 
felt...tall crowns & wide brims. [You could do this with a straw hat if the 
crown is the right shape.] The brims are too wide for this period so I cut 
them down to about 2" and put millinery wire around the new edge by 
zigzagging over the wire. [Millenary wire is springy wire wrapped in thread. 
It comes in black or white and I think Greenburg & Hammer have it. If you 
can't get any, regular wire like from the hardware store will work if springy 
enough. It may rust later, however.]
Then I covered these felt forms with fancy fabrics. To do this trace the brim 
on the fabric. Cut out 2 of these with generous seam allowances. Find the 
center of one by folding it in quarters. Slash it at the center in several 
radiating directions but no larger...in fact shy of the opening for your had 
to go in the hat. This one goes on top, the crown punched through it. You can 
cut some of the center away but let it creep up the crown some....you'll have 
to clip it. Baste everything in place...around the bottom of crown and fold 
the outer edge under [not to the bottom though] & baste it. It will crinkle 
but trim it as close as you dare. The other circle goes on the bottom, 
position it and baste it in place. There's no need to cut the hole for the 
head yet. Carefully fold the outside edge under and blind stitch it to the 
top circle at the edge of the brim...where the wire is. Or trim both top & 
bottom pieces to the edge & bind the brim's edge in fabric or ribbon. Now 
slice the hole & trim & clip it basting the clipped seam allowance up inside 
the crown.
Now the crown. Measure it from the bottom of one side, over the top to the 
other side. Cut a circle with that diameter. Find the center & bast it to the 
top of the crown. Now you can pleat or gather or arrange decoratively the 
outside edge of this circle to fit the crown. Pull it taught all the way 
round! Baste it at the bottom [hopefully overlapping the brim fabric's 
clipped seam allowance]. Cut another circle [of a different color or white] 
for the inside of the crown, evenly pleat it and baste it's edge too, only 
inside. Now sew a 3/4" grosgrain to the inside where a sweat band would go. 
[This could be a leather strip if you wanted] Put the join at CB and a small 
ribbon bow there. You can sew the grosgrain through to the outside of the 
crown as all these stitches & basting get covered up with a Fancy embroidered 
ribbon or fabric band. The grosgrain will stabilize the opening so sew it 
down well. Take out any basting that shows. Add some jewels & feathers and 
VOILA....you are a milliner!

Did you get all that??? :-)

Then there's the coif. I know these are easy & there are patterns out there. 
They can sometimes be worn under hats & berets.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 20:21:51 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 21:35:36 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hat for Simplicity Elizabethan
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-Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>

>OR...HOW TO COVER A FELT HAT

If they're wool felt, you can steam 'em over a tea kettle.  Great for shaping!

Donna Kenton


Visit my web page!  http://www.dabbler.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 20:41:51 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Busks
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 21:49:14 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

>-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

>Megan, have you tried http://www.farthingales.on.ca/clasps.htm#busks ?

I have now.  Thankyou.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 20:41:53 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Laughing Moon corset (was OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!)
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 21:59:58 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

 >My husband thinks it's weird that I go
>through all the effort to make something that I end up
>wearing around the house.

Funny - I have no place to actually wear the corset and chemise I'm gonna
make this winter either.  Maybe it's because you and I have the same
name........  (But when I showed my husband the picture on the pattern
envelope he didn't seem to mind)


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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:00:07 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question : FOLLOWUP ?
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:02 AM 09/10/1999 +0100, "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk> wrote:
>If its the stuff I think it is that we have in the UK called Nubuck  a very
>thin sliver of real leather stuck to a polymer base and the roughes up to
>give a nap. Then the only thing that will work; stay for a while and not
>degrade the backing so that it shreds from the inside is;;;; believe it or
>not water colour paint , the proper artist stuff .. ... <snip> ...Hope
this helps. --Dave
>+++++++++++++++++++++
>> -Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>> I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede stuff
>> that makes your feet sweat, ... <snip> ...
             Dave--If this is a water color, won't it come off on sweaty
feet/the socks covering them?  Just wondering.  Thank you for your
thoughts/experience. -- Carol
    
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 9/9/99:  Delightful!
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:21:09 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>




>From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

>Okay, I confess, I am a lurker.  What now?  Forced to talk, you say.  What 
>is this world coming to?
>
>Penny asked if the lurkers were introverts.  I would have to say not 
>necessarily.  I am primarily a lurker (with an occasional post) and am 
>actually quite the extrovert.  By the time I have hit the keyboard at the 
>end of a long day, I am simply too tired to join in the many interesting 
>conversations on this list, as well as other lists I lurk.  Therefore, I 
>have become perfectly content with reading.  I enjoy the questions, the 
>answers, the informative posts, and admittedly even the occasional 
>argument.  Hey, Jerry Springer is just too much for me.  I will settle with 
>a good costuming debate any day.
>
Well... sometimes this list can get a *bit* like Jerry Springer!

I found this comment so interesting --extrovert in real life, "introvert" 
--or quiet --on the list.  Although in the past I have been quite the 
extrovert on the list, I am in truth an introvert in real life.  My fiance 
is always saying, "Now, it's your turn to talk.  You tell me a story, for 
once."  And I can't ever think of a darn thing to say.  But give me a 
keyboard-- and look out!

This was a delightful idea, Penny.  Thank you.

Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 21:09:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 19:26:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: ;-(  *sigh*
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Please?  Anyone?  I know that my earlier e-mail went
out because I rec'd a copy... I still am searching for
help on my hat question...

On the up side, I did make the 1920's slip dress that
Vogue put out recently... great pattern... relatively
simple if you pay attention (I didn't and ended up
taking the whole thing apart again ;-)).  

Sarah


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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:35:11 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>


Yes. This is exactly what it was for.  That, and making one sit & stand up 
straight, with good posture.  Altho' --there are strapless versions.  JP 
Ryan's is fine for making a serviceable 1770s working corset *without* 
straps.  I use basket reed and steels for the boning, steels on the seams, 
reed in between, and although you usually have to replace one or two during 
the year, they are very comfortable and easy to wear.  And cheap... a whole 
reel of 1/2" reed costs about 7 bucks & makes dozens of corsets, with 30 to 
40 bones apiece.  Just cut them to length, round off the ends, rub them with 
wax, and insert.

Susannah

>-Poster: "Mary HInton" <mary_hinton@my-deja.com>
>
>Re Tudor stays and the teenager who didn't like the shoulder straps.
>
>I think both N Waugh and Cunnington state that the shoulder straps also 
>serve to narrow the back and expand the chest - this is more than just 
>keeping the stays in place.  I am sure a present day teenager might find 
>this a bit uncomfortable.  I have seen pictures of 18C stays where the 
>shoulder strap goes from the high boned back, forward and down over the 
>shoulder and fastens quite a way back under the arm.  I am not sure if this 
>was to give the wide neckline,  and/or to pull the shoulders back.
>
>---Mary



"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 22:40:58 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

Sarah,
	if you don't think you will be able to get the hat done by Friday, I do
have a repro beaded (with elastic headband). One is gray and one is a gold
tone. They $20
Let me know if you need it.

At 12:28 PM 9/9/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
>Alright!  I just can't STAND it anymore!  There is NO
>WAY I can keep my mouth shut for a WHOLE DAY!
>
>*phew*  I feel better.
>
>I actually have a very important question that has a
>time constraint, or I would have kept quiet until
>tomorrow...
>
>I bought the 1920's hat pattern from Past Patterns...
>I made the large size, and it is too small for my
>head!  Argh!  Has anyone used this pattern?  If so,
>did you run into this problem, and how did you fix it?
> Please help... we are putting on a 1920's coctail
>party on Saturday night and I REALLY need this.
>
>Oh, and thanks for the laugh.
>
>> in the very ACT of tucking. (Tucking, I said!
>> Somehow that looks awful when written.) In the same
>
>Sarah
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>

Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 21:29:40 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Busks
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:43:46 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

I have ordered from Farthingales and they not only have the busks, their 
service is impeccable.  Greenberg & Hammer's prices were a bit high, but 
they have the very short ones (9") for shrimps like me.
I have also ordered them from
Saundra Altman (pastpat@thepoint.net)   or thru her website   
www.pastpatterns.com

Although she doesn't carry them in her catalog anymore, she has oodles of 
them in her shop & might still be persuaded to part with them if you can't 
find the correct size anywhere else.

Susannah


>From: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Busks
>Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 08:57:01 -0500
>
>
>-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
>
>Megan, have you tried http://www.farthingales.on.ca/clasps.htm#busks ?
>
>HTH, Renée (delurking for 2nd time today!)
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:48:37 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Did you try calling Saundra directly and asking her about it?  She is always 
very helpful on the phone, and wants you to be happy with her patterns.  She 
will have a good idea for expanding the hat, I just know.
Susannah


>From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
>Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 22:40:58 -0400
>
>
>-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>
>Sarah,
>	if you don't think you will be able to get the hat done by Friday, I do
>have a repro beaded (with elastic headband). One is gray and one is a gold
>tone. They $20
>Let me know if you need it.
>
>At 12:28 PM 9/9/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Alright!  I just can't STAND it anymore!  There is NO
> >WAY I can keep my mouth shut for a WHOLE DAY!
> >
> >*phew*  I feel better.
> >
> >I actually have a very important question that has a
> >time constraint, or I would have kept quiet until
> >tomorrow...
> >
> >I bought the 1920's hat pattern from Past Patterns...
> >I made the large size, and it is too small for my
> >head!  Argh!  Has anyone used this pattern?  If so,
> >did you run into this problem, and how did you fix it?
> > Please help... we are putting on a 1920's coctail
> >party on Saturday night and I REALLY need this.
> >
> >Oh, and thanks for the laugh.
> >
> >> in the very ACT of tucking. (Tucking, I said!
> >> Somehow that looks awful when written.) In the same
> >
> >Sarah
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> >
>
>Cordially,
>
>Sue Shatto
>
>Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
>http://www.VictorianMillinery.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

______________________________________________________
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 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 21:39:47 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 19:53:33 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Why don't you try felting it?  We do this all the time with lighter weight 
woolens to thicken them up & make them toasty for capes, coats, etc.  Wash 
with detergent in hot water, then rinse in very cold water.  Use your 
washing machine.  Dry in the dryer.  Voila!  Very nice, thick wool.

Susannah
>
>I don't know if I'm an "in" or an "ex" but I have a question just the same.
>
>Before I send back this wool that I thought was at least 13 oz.
>
>Does anyone know of any uses in medieval/renaissance periods of a
>lightweight wool such as a gabardine? It's really lovely material and if I
>was inclined to make myself a dress suit, it would be of this material. As
>it turns, I was intending to make some capes and trews from it and wanted a
>heavier weight.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>~Kyna (who sometimes lurks...sometimes saves posts to read later and
>sometimes even butts into the conversation)
>  ----
>ICQ#12859312
>Grannd Garb
>Historic Clothing, Supplies and Accessories
>http://GranndGarb.com
>
>http://TheMarketSquare.com
>COMING SOON!! Ask for details about your selling space now.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Thursday, September 09, 1999 12:24 AM
>Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
>
>
> >
> > -Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
> >
> > At 07:32 PM 09/08/1999 , you wrote:
> > >
> > >-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> > >
> > >           As I am not at the level of expertise most others seem to 
>be.
>I
> > >read, I try, I learn...I lurk...thus, am I ... Carol
> >
> > What she said! :->
> >
> > Svanny
> >
> >
> > Svanhildr  Valdimarsdottir     )O(
> >    Barony of Gyldenholt, Kingdom of Caid
> >   kittykat@primenet.com
> >   ICQ: 12691776 (NyteRaevyn)
> >   AIM: SvanhildrV
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 21:51:30 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Elaine Benfatto <benfatto@mediaone.net>
Subject: H-COST: Glove pattern
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-Poster: Elaine Benfatto <benfatto@mediaone.net>

A few weeks ago someone on this list was looking for a pattern to sew kid
gloves for herself. This evening I happened to stumble on some pretty
extensive instructions in an old library book:

Novel Materials
Editor: David L. Harrison
(from the series: The Art of Sewing, edited
by Carlotta Erwin)
New York: Time-Life Books, 1974

The glove chapter falls on pages 70-83. It contains patterns, special
instructions on preparing the leather for gloves (things I'd never seen in
any other leather book!) and sewing instructions for a couple of different
glove styles. It looks quite interesting!

Elaine
(who is also delurking for the first time tonight!)


Elaine Benfatto (Cambridge, MA)
benfatto@mediaone.net
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/benfatto/


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 22:00:20 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: OT: Anti-lurk day
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

I usually lurk, because my interest area is pretty darn obscure: the dress 
of the mixed-blood (i.e. half-breed) 'country wives' of Canadian fur 
traders, 1774-1821. My last project was sewing a new, more historically 
correct pair of knee-high leggins of red Melton cloth just in time for the 
Rocky Mountain House bicentennial in July. Then Joan Jurancich (hi!) very 
politely pointed out I was wearing them sideways. Thanks, Joan! (Really!) 
And thanks to everyone who's answered the questions I've occasionally posted 
to the list over the last three years. 

Your obliged and obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 22:26:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 22:39:50 +0000
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Anne Gast <agast@tds.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:De-Lurking
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-Poster: Anne Gast <agast@tds.net>

OK, I have built my courage enough to delurk.  This is worse than talking
to a room full of people.  (I guess, this is talking to more than a
roomful.)  

I make costumes for IFGS and Magic Horizens, my live action, live combat
(foam weapons, no pain), medieval/fantasy role-playing groups.  

I lurk because I feel I don't know enough to contribute, but I love
learning from this list and from the books recommended.  I especially
enjoyed the Irish costuming threads.

I have wondered when the bagged sleeves on leines started appearing.  Or
conversely, what period is it appropiate not to have them? 

Anne
Madison, Wisconsin






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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 22:47:27 1999
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-Poster: Gwnvr@aol.com

  OK, I have about fifteen minutes to speak up I guess.  I only occasionally 
de-lurk to ask questions but I learn so much from reading.  Ironically, I 
hate to sew...I just love to wear costumes and I 'm not happy unless they're 
"right" or as right as I can reasonably get them.  I work as a historical 
interpreter for a museum and do historical dancing.  I sew when I need 
something to wear.  I could never begin to sew on the level of most of you.  
I'm adequate but forget trying to enlarge patterns from books or drape 
muslins, etc.  It's way beyond me.  Still I enjoy following along vicariously 
and seeing your creations online. 
   (I have a report card from kindergarten that says, "Jennifer  is a bright 
little girl but she spends too much time playing in the dress up room being a 
princess.  Please encourage her to spend more time at the science table and 
the math corner."  I'm still wondering how much time is "too much" for a five 
year old to spend playing dress-up???? Apparently I 'm still trying to get 
back in there!!!)

                                             Jen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 22:58:32 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 21:12:43 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hi there

Would it be possible to recover them? Maybe you could find a fabric or a 
light-weight leather (ie garmet weight pig skin) in the shade you want and 
just stitch it over the offending black pseudo-suede by hand.
As for finding the leather, Tandy has a website which is taking the place of 
most of their stores. Don't know the exact e-dress so you'll have to use 
your favorite search engine and look it up.

De-lurking for the second time.

Lonna (Enyd)


>From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
>Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 13:22:29 -0700
>
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
> > I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede 
>stuff
> > that makes your feet sweat, and I need to change to color to red.  Does
> > anyone know if there is a way I can dye or paint this type of material
> > without ruining it?
>
>wow.  I suspect you are stuck with black shoes.  Not because of the
>fabric/materials but because once something is black, it's pretty much 
>black
>for life.  Unless you have bleach and then it's probably going to be gray.  
>I
>could, of course, be mistaken about this.  You could certainly paint it 
>with a
>paint that would cover it but the paint would probably ruin the shoes in 
>the
>end.
>
>Cynthia
>--
>Cynthia Long
>Merouda the True of Bornover
>Barony of Madrone
>Kingdom of An Tir
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 23:37:39 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 20:14:42 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: To Erica re. "drawer tucking"
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 10:40 PM 09/09/1999 -0400, you wrote: -Poster: Sue Shatto
<Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>
>Sarah,
>	if you don't think you will be able to get the hat done by Friday, I do
>have a repro beaded (with elastic headband). One is gray and one is a gold
>tone. They $20
>Let me know if you need it.
                 I have dealt with Sue and am very happy with her and the
hat she sold me. -- Carol, who rec's and expects no stipend for saying any
of this ... 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep  9 23:57:46 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 01:09:52 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Victorian "Fancy Dress"
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

I have committed to do a (slide) lecture for the local Victorian Society in 
October on ideas for costumes for our Victorian "masked ball" next January.  
I have found Planche 1881and Strutt (rare book room) in our library catalogs, 
as well as the Butterick Masquerade book for 1892.  I purchased the new book 
on Canadian "Magnificent Entertainments" by Cynthia Cooper. I haven't checked 
yet on the dates, but I think that Vecellio, Racinet, and Braun & Schneider 
came out before 1900 (and are now in Dover reprint.)

This is only a 45 minute lecture, but I would like to make a listing of books 
(especially cheap Dover reprints) for a handout.  What have I missed?  Is 
there anything with color plates?  

Does anyone want to sell me copies of their slides?

As you might know, I usually lecture and do workshops on corsets and other 
"body-shaping garments" so I don't have much on this topic, unless I own the 
books for some other reason.  I haven't had time to check them all yet.  

Thanks to you all for delurking and for the useful thread on the Laughing 
Moon corset, chemise, and kit.  I too am a very satisfied customer of 
Farthingales for supplies.

Joan McTeer
Minneapolis
(who by now has missed the 9/9/99 deadline!)
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-Poster: karolee@fenris.net (Karolee Smiley)



>
>I don't contribute much for several reasons --
>
>  1)  I don't have a great deal of time to spend on-line, and most of that
>time is taken
>      up just READING the messages......
>
>  2)  Most of the messages aren't dealing with timeframes or garments I have
>      much knowledge about or interest in......
>
>   3)  Frequently, when I DO find something that I could respond to --- I go
>down several more messages and find that someone has already answered it!
>


I'm in the same boat, especially since I can't always read my mail
everyday.  Imagine my surprise to find nearly 200 messages since I last
checked on Tuesday evening!  By the time I find out about a thread, its
usually over.  Even this is almost past schedule.

Kaitlin
Karolee


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 00:35:40 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 22:29:57 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Medieval Misc. patterns tend to be awful - I can't recommend them. They
say they were drafted by Laurels of the SCA but they don't say they were
drafted by *costuming* Laurels.  I can't make heads or tails of them
either so they weren't drafted by calligraphy and Illumination Laurels
either.

I'm not really lurking - I just rejoined the list a few days ago after
about a 6 month hiatus.   Due mostly to becoming the SCA's Society
Exchequer, so I've been furiously trying to get the financials done and
off to the CPA.  Thank god that's almost done.

What's next?  Making a corset for a friend in Canada who just recently
joined the SCA, and doesn't have the guts to try making one herself.
Then some new Regencies for next year's Costume College, and maybe an
Edwardian Ballgown.  In the more immediate future, a new Italian for
Crown next weekend (god willing the spreadsheets not falling apart).

Carolyn (aka Tetchubah)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 00:35:51 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Thanks to everyone who replied about my shoe dyeing question.  I think that
perhaps I might try to cover them since that may be the best looking way of
doing it.  Thanks again.

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 00:39:31 1999
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From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: patterns, gingham
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>- -Poster: Donna Kenton <kenton@neaccess.net>
>
>A trick I learned was to make the initial one out of gingham.  Make sure
>it's the woven check, not the printed one.  It's more expensive than
>muslin, but you can see the grain lines so much easier, which makes it
>easier for me to use.
>
Also, if you use the 1" check, it makes an automatic grid for scaling up
patterns - just draw on the gingham!

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 01:16:53 1999
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From: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
To: "'H-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 16:25:42 +1000
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-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>

From: AnnoraK@aol.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon

Re: Georgia's question about the Laughing Moon corset pattern -- I built my 
first corset last month using this pattern.  I made the Dore Straight Seam 
out of coutil, with an outside layer of moire.  I followed their suggestions

of making a muslin and doing two test fittings.  I had to trim back the 
underarm areas about 1/2" - 3/4", but other than that, it went together 
smoothly and easily, even with feline interference.  But, then I was sorta 
paranoid about screwing the whole thing up, so did everything by the rules, 
tracing out all lines and markings and all the other stuff that I usually 
don't do with the rest of my projects.

One suggestion, though -- trace out the pattern onto butcher paper, if you 
weren't planning to already.  
--

Thanks Jen.

One other question - has anybody made the pattern *with* the gores? I'm very
busty, and very hourglass, so I'll have to be making that one :-)

Cheers
Georgia
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 01:24:30 1999
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

Well, I *finally* finished my gown for the Northern California Renaissance
Pleasure Faire. I sewed the buttons on just before I got dressed on this
past Saturday morning <whew!>.

It's a midnight blue velveteen with three rows of gold braid down each skirt
front. The high-bodied bodice has two different gold/black braids; one kind
on the shoulder seams and another on the center back seam, collar seams, and
around the edges of the sleeve caps. The buttons down the front (all
functional) are a mounded golden metal filagree about 5/8th inches in
diameter with two matching 3/8th-inch-diameter ones for the collar. This
time I attached the bodice to the skirt since I am tired of trying to keep
from having gaposis; besides, that means that  I don't need to have
something *else* tight about the waist, the farthingale and underskirt are
enough, thank you <g>. Since I had a pair of sleeves I had made several
years ago, and enough of the fabric and trim, I decided to make a matching
forepart for the underskirt; it's a salmon-pink textured velvet (intended
for upholstery) with four rows of two kinds of bright gold trim, one a lace
and one a braid (sort of). The four rows go down the center of the skirt to
about 3 inches above the hem, then split and go across the bottom, following
the curve of the hem (with two additional rows added to keep with the 4-row
theme). Oh, the sleeves are lined with saffron-coloured cotton <g>, makes
them very colourful.

I don't have any pictures, but if anyone on the list visited the Renaissance
Pleasure Faire (in Vacaville, CA, at the Nut Tree) this past weekend, you
may have seen me (aka Mistress Blanche Parry, chief Gentlewoman to the
Queen) in attendance upon Her Grace. And yes, it was hot, and I sweated a
lot, but, boy, do we look good! <VBG> I'll be back at Faire for the last
four weekends (September 25 through October 17). Hope to see you there!



Joan Jurancich
aka Mistress Blanche Parry, chief Gentlewoman to the Queen [RPFN]
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 05:13:12 1999
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

To Jill of ECWS: I'm thrilled to hear that there *is* another 17th century enthusiast on the list. It's always seemed as though I was the only one!

Like Jennifer, I dislike sewing and only make what I feel I really need for reenactment purposes, so my contributions to the list are mainly on social history, word definitions etc. Joining this list has made me more authenticity-conscious, especially as my present role as a civilian musician in the Sealed Knot brings me into much more direct contact with the public than in my previous career as a musketeer. The hot weather we've had this summer has made me decide that my next project must be a sleeveless bodice which will be cooler than my woollen one.

Kate Bunting
King's Lifeguard of Foote/ Captaine Generalls Musick, Sealed Knot

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 06:00:47 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Victorian Dress Book
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 99 07:20:41 -0000
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-Poster: <mkings@earthlink.net>

Ah ha! I can unlurk and contribute at the same time!!

To Joan:

 "Victorian Fashions & Costumes From Harpers Bazaar: 1867-1898 - 
Published by Dover - Introduction by Stella Blum - part of their 
pictorial archive series - first published in 1974 - I found on ebay, do 
not know if still published, is black & white but has over 1000 
illustrationsxz from fashion plates.

To quote from the blurb on the back cover of the book. " These 
illustrations not only give you what apparel appealed...but give you an 
idea of the evolutionary nature of fashion as well.

Good descriptions of the outfit - illustrations are superb - shows 
accessories and underpinnings as well.

Margo King in Potomac
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 08:42:37 1999
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From: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>
To: JPMcTeer@aol.com
cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Fancy dress reprint
In-Reply-To: <215d042b.2509eca0@aol.com>
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-Poster: Katy Bishop <vintage@shore.net>

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 JPMcTeer@aol.com wrote:
>
>I have committed to do a (slide) lecture for the local Victorian Society in 
>October on ideas for costumes for our Victorian "masked ball" next January.  
>I have found Planche 1881and Strutt (rare book room) in our library catalogs, 
>as well as the Butterick Masquerade book for 1892.  I purchased the new book 
>on Canadian "Magnificent Entertainments" by Cynthia Cooper. I haven't checked 
>yet on the dates, but I think that Vecellio, Racinet, and Braun & Schneider 
>came out before 1900 (and are now in Dover reprint.)

Don't know if any of these would be of interest to your group, but....
We have just reprinted the Butterick Masquerade and Carnival Book,
1892.  We also publish other small costume booklets on dress of the 19th
and early 20th Centuries, primarily aimed at helping Vintage Dancers.


Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
vintage@shore.net   Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 09:03:08 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Strike is over!!!
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 10:12:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Boy, it was very tempting to jump on that Civil War uniform question, but I
sat on my hands!!!  Margo did a great job of going cold turkey!  R. L. I
love to pick on you, I know you haven't been on for a while, because of that
bad server, but we love your input.  And I for one have missed you not being
on the list.  Melanie, I am so happy you are back on the list.

For the lurkers...
I am SO proud of you!  WOW! What great intros and questions.  For those of
you who commented that you couldn't sew, I can't sew anymore.  Too many
years behind the sewing machine did my back in.  Four years ago when I first
came on this list, I was a college student who knew little about historic
costume.  I have learned so much from this list and made some really good
friends.  I have even had the chance to meet some of you when traveling
through Richmond, or at conventions or museum exhibit openings.  My family
and Miss Mela's family even spent the 4th of July together (1812 overtune
with real cannons).  A lot of the great opportunities I have had are because
of some of the people I have met on this list. Heck, I have even located two
very distant internet cousins on the list, Doris and Hope.  My hat is off to
all of you!

BUT lurkers please continue to speak up and let us know you are there!  I am
so glad you all introduced yourselves!  Extroverts are like a butterfly in a
room of beautiful flowers.  We want to see and meet every flower and each
flower makes up a beautiful garden.  So keep on talking lurkers.  If you
have a question, chances are other people had the same question but were
afraid to ask.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 09:06:25 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Button holes
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 10:16:07 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I was watching Alfred Hitchcock presents the other night.  Mr. Hitchcock
stated that buttons were invented 100 years prior to buttonholes.  Is this
true???

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 09:55:45 1999
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 09:08:31 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

Greetings!

Am looking for advice from those of you who know about sewing 
with leather.

I picked up a wonderful piece of navy blue leather (not sure if blue 
leather is period, but it looks and feels great!) and I want to make a 
16th century man's doublet out of it.

I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a 
leather sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and 
should go through the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer 
stitches than I would with woven fabric.

I'm thinking about using some slashing and pinking to add interest 
and line it with a bright, contrasting color to show off the slashes. 
Any suggestions on the slashes? Should I keep them smaller (1/2 
inch or so big) so that the leather won't stretch? Seems to me (the 
book is at home so I can't reference it now) that the pictures I've 
seen in Janet Arnold show the pinking and slashing to be fairly 
small.

As far as seams go, I was planning to use a modified flat felled 
seam when sewing leather to leather - sew right sides together, 
trim one seam allowance to about 1/4 inch, press both seam 
allowances in the same direction with the longer one on top, then 
top stitch in place (just like regular flat felled only the raw edge isn't 
turned under to keep bulk down). Anyone have experience, 
suggestions on seaming leather? For sewing leather to fabric 
lining, I was planning to just stitch as usual (with longer stitch 
length). Will this work?

I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?
I know that with synthetic suede (Ultrasuede), you can turn the 
pattern pieces anyway you want.

I plan to use three layers: lining, interlining, and leather. Usually 
when I make a doublet or bodice, I treat the lining and interlining as 
one unit. Would it be better to use the interlining (which is the layer 
that will show under the leather) and the leather as one unit 
instead. Or does it matter?

Any other caveats?

Thanks!


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 10:14:16 1999
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From: "GRM Files" <grmfiles@princeton.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Button holes
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 11:27:31 -0400
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-Poster: "GRM Files" <grmfiles@Princeton.EDU>

On-line Encyclopedia Britannica says about buttons:

button

usually disklike piece of solid material having holes or a shank through
which it is sewed to one side of an article of clothing and used to
fasten or close the garment by passing through a loop or hole in the
other side. Purely decorative, nonutilitarian buttons are also
frequently used on clothing. 

The ancient Greeks and Etruscans fastened their tunics at the
shoulders with buttons and loops. In medieval Europe, garments
were laced together or fastened with brooches or clasps and points,
until buttonholes were invented in the 13th century. 

[rest of item truncated as inapplicable.]
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From: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
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-Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>

Everyone...thanks to a wonderful list member I now know what kind of
braid..but I still have no idea what the best attachment method for it
is.  Help!

MeriBeth
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

.. a whole 
>reel of 1/2" reed costs about 7 bucks & makes dozens of corsets, with 30 to 
>40 bones apiece.  Just cut them to length, round off the ends, rub them with 
>wax, and insert.

Do you have a mail order source for reed?

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Med Misc & other things
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 10:29 PM 09/09/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>
>Medieval Misc. patterns tend to be awful - I can't recommend them. They
>say they were drafted by Laurels of the SCA but they don't say they were
>drafted by *costuming* Laurels.

That, and these patterns have been around a *long*  time.  For all we know,
they may have been created back in the first few years of the SCA, when the
standards were much, much, lower.  

Does anyone know anything definitive about the history of this company?  How
long they've been around, who did the patterns, etc?

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

..
>We have just reprinted the Butterick Masquerade and Carnival Book,
>1892. 

well, that might explain why I've been unable to resell the 1900 edition
that my husband spent a small fortune on.  Rats.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 12:07:51 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Margo did a great job of going cold turkey! 

Thanks Penny!  It wasn't easy, but it was worth it to hear from all the lurkers.

I've had several people ask me lately how and why  I manage to spend so much
time on the list.  the "how" is that I'm a speed reader, so it takes me less
than an hour to read 300+ emails a day. 

The reason why I spend so much time here is that I'm a full time mother of
small  children.  This list is the only way I get to talk to adults who are
interested in the same things as I am, rather than the Stepford Moms at the
bus stop.  I really believe that I would not be as good a mother as I am if
I didn't have H-costume to provide me with a social life and some
intellectual stimulation.  Thanks, everyone!

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 12:19:24 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 12:32:33 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
References: <37D73BA0.6C6C6B53@bc.sympatico.ca> <199909101510.JAA13174@email.boisestate.edu>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Linda Yordy wrote:
> Am looking for advice from those of you who know about sewing
> with leather.

BTDT....have a leather cotehardie I *really* need to finish!
 
<snip>
> I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a
> leather sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and
> should go through the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer
> stitches than I would with woven fabric.

I would *definately* get leather needles!  But I use the same stitch
length I do on woven fabrics (2 on my machine).

> I'm thinking about using some slashing and pinking to add interest
> and line it with a bright, contrasting color to show off the slashes.
> Any suggestions on the slashes? Should I keep them smaller (1/2
> inch or so big) so that the leather won't stretch? Seems to me (the
> book is at home so I can't reference it now) that the pictures I've
> seen in Janet Arnold show the pinking and slashing to be fairly
> small.

I haven't done slashes in leather so am not sure of this.  If the lining
is sturdy I shouldn't think that you need be concerned about the leather
stretching.
 
> As far as seams go, I was planning to use a modified flat felled
> seam when sewing leather to leather - sew right sides together,
> trim one seam allowance to about 1/4 inch, press both seam
> allowances in the same direction with the longer one on top, then
> top stitch in place (just like regular flat felled only the raw edge
> isn't turned under to keep bulk down). Anyone have experience,
> suggestions on seaming leather? For sewing leather to fabric
> lining, I was planning to just stitch as usual (with longer stitch
> length). Will this work?

This is what *I* do.  I cut the leather with a 1/4" seam allowance on a
*slant* (slant cut so that the 'outer' edge is on the right side and the
shallower is on the wrong).  Then I just sew it together.  No problems. 
There are even tools available from leather making stores (such as
Tandy) that allow one to 'shave' leather before seaming it (which is
what the Leather God I know of here in town does).  IOW you can reduce
the thickness of the leather just at the seam line.  I hope this made
sense, I'm sick today!

> I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?
> I know that with synthetic suede (Ultrasuede), you can turn the
> pattern pieces anyway you want.

You only need to worry about marks on the leather.
 
> I plan to use three layers: lining, interlining, and leather. Usually
> when I make a doublet or bodice, I treat the lining and interlining as
> one unit. Would it be better to use the interlining (which is the
> layer that will show under the leather) and the leather as one unit
> instead. Or does it matter?

Good question...I rarely use more than two layers with anything but if
you're slashing I would think that treating the interlining and the
lining as one piece would be fine and might even be preferable to
treating the leather and interlining as one piece.

Kat
waiting with bated breath to see what others say about this!
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 10:43:12 -0700
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> BTDT....have a leather cotehardie I *really* need to finish!
> waiting with bated breath to see what others say about this!

*I'm* waiting with bated breath to hear all about a leather cotehardie.
Ack!!  Sounds hot.  In more ways than one.  ;->  Merouda

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------90374ADD723BF6B9F88B9432
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> May I please ask for details of where the boning can be purchased from?
> Living
> in the UK which is part of the EU now means that I can order from Germany
> without all the problems with paying import duty and so on. Which is the
> main
> problem that I have with buying from the USA so a more 'local' source would
> be very handy.
>
> Thanks and best wishes
>
> Lissa
>
Here I have to point you to my friend Alexa in Munich (who has got the
baroque costume website http://www.marquise.de , by the way), she
ordered a larger quantity of  the plastic boning for our workshop.
Maybe she can also provide you with adresses for ordering.
Her e-mail is alexa@marquise.de

Many greetings,
Diana

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<HTML>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>May I please ask for details of where the boning can be purchased from?
Living
in the UK which is part of the EU now means that I can order from Germany
without all the problems with paying import duty and so on. Which is the
main&nbsp;
problem that I have with buying from the USA so a more 'local' source would
be very handy.

Thanks and best wishes

Lissa</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
Here I have to point you to my friend Alexa in Munich (who has got the
baroque costume website <A HREF="http://www.marquise.de">http://www.marquise.de</A> , by the way), she ordered
a larger quantity of&nbsp; the plastic boning for our workshop.
<BR>Maybe she can also provide you with adresses for ordering.
<BR>Her e-mail is alexa@marquise.de

<P>Many greetings,
<BR>Diana</HTML>

--------------90374ADD723BF6B9F88B9432--



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 12:47:05 1999
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From: "Mary McGuire" <mary@ghg.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: costuming books on ebay
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-Poster: "Mary McGuire" <mary@ghg.net>

I have noticed that several members have posted costuming books that they
have up on ebay, so I hope that my venture out of lurking isn't against list
etiquette.  I have several books up, including these that would be of list
interest.  Go here to find them:
http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&us
erid=mdbk&include=0&since=-1&sort=2&rows=25

IL Cappello Da Donna, Women's Hats by Adele Campione

A Glossary of the Construction, Decoration and Use of Arms and Armor in All
Countries and in All Times,Together  with Some Closely Related Subjects by
George Cameron Stone

Historical Coiffures, Historical Supplements Published by the Gallia
Institute in the Gallia Messenger  (Look at this one especially.  Even if
your're not interested in getting it, it is something to see.)

Grandmother's Hope Chest, French Sewing by Machine by Martha Pullen

Antique Clothing, French Sewing by Machine by Martha Pullen

Heirloom Sewing for Women, French Sewing by Machine by Martha Pullen

17th and 18th Century Costume, Victoria & Albert Museum Large Picture Book
No.9

The Kashmir Shawl by John Irwin, Victoria & Albert Museum, Museum Monograph
29

Vintage Fashions for Women, 1920's-1940's with values by Kristina Harris

Victorian and Edwardian Fashion, A Photographic Survey by Alison Gernsheim

European Arms and Armor by Charles Henry Ashdown

I'll be putting up more, but slowly.
Thanks,
Mary










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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 11:09:34 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Pacific NW Exhibits
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3019806574_117666_MIME_Part
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Victoria Rivers -- will be visiting Seattle on October 21-22 to speak at a
Thursday evening opening at Material Possessions and to give a "collections
seminar" at the Henry Gallery the following noon, October 22nd.  Victoria is
a professor of textile history and studio fiber arts at UC, Davis.  Her
visit will coincide with the Thames & Hudson publication of her new book,
*The Shining Cloth*.  She will be using pieces from the  Henry's collection
to illustrate points from the book in her talk.   
Contact Judy Sourakli at the Henry Gallery (543-2281) or me (441-4459) for
further details.

The Vincent Collection will have an exhibit at the Bainbridge Public
Library, entitled *Facinatin' Rhythm* it features evening gowns and wraps
from 1920 to 1940. September 26th, to October 3rd

*Songet - Gilt Cloth of Indonesia*.  19th & 20th century gold and silver
embellished textiles worn on ceremonial occasions in Sumatra and Malaysia.  
 Material Possessions gallery. 1932 First Ave #610. Seattle, WA 98101. 
Contact Linda Beeman  206-41-4459.  Oct 21 through Dec 31.

*Woven Symbols: Chinese Garments and Textiles*.  Seattle Asian Art Museum. 
Volunteer Park. Seattle, WA.  through 4/2/00.

*Talking Fingers: Contemporary Weavings from the Northern Northwest Coast*. 
Seattle Art Museum.  Seattle, WA  through 4/23/00.

*Textiles and Temples in Northeast India*.  Presentation by Robb Shep at the
Seattle Textile & Rug Society on Oct 14th.  206-325-8907. email 
stars.1@usa.net

*Broken Threads - From Aryanization to Cultural Loss: The Destruction of the
Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria*.  includes 40 costumes. 
Vancouver Holocaust Ed. Centre. 50-950 W. 41 St. Vancouver, BC V5Z 2N7. 
804-264-0499.  through 5/15/00.

*Woman of Fashion: Guendolen Plestcheeff Collection.  Museum of History and
Industry. Seattle.  through Oct 14.

~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

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<TT>Victoria Rivers -- will be visiting Seattle on October 21-22 to speak a=
t a Thursday evening opening at Material Possessions and to give a &quot;col=
lections seminar&quot; at the Henry Gallery the following noon, October 22nd=
.  Victoria is a professor of textile history and studio fiber arts at UC, D=
avis.  Her visit will coincide with the Thames &amp; Hudson publication of h=
er new book, *The Shining Cloth*.  She will be using pieces from the  Henry'=
s collection to illustrate points from the book in her talk.   <BR>
Contact Judy Sourakli at the Henry Gallery (543-2281) or me (441-4459) for =
further details.<BR>
<BR>
The Vincent Collection will have an exhibit at the Bainbridge Public Librar=
y, entitled *Facinatin' Rhythm* it features evening gowns and wraps from 192=
0 to 1940. September 26th, to October 3rd<BR>
<BR>
*Songet - Gilt Cloth of Indonesia*.  19th &amp; 20th century gold and silve=
r embellished textiles worn on ceremonial occasions in Sumatra and Malaysia.=
    Material Possessions gallery. 1932 First Ave #610. Seattle, WA 98101.  C=
ontact Linda Beeman  206-41-4459.  Oct 21 through Dec 31.<BR>
<BR>
*Woven Symbols: Chinese Garments and Textiles*.  Seattle Asian Art Museum. =
 Volunteer Park. Seattle, WA.  through 4/2/00.<BR>
<BR>
*Talking Fingers: Contemporary Weavings from the Northern Northwest Coast*.=
  Seattle Art Museum.  Seattle, WA  through 4/23/00.<BR>
<BR>
*Textiles and Temples in Northeast India*.  Presentation by Robb Shep at th=
e Seattle Textile &amp; Rug Society on Oct 14th.  206-325-8907. email  stars=
.1@usa.net<BR>
<BR>
*Broken Threads - From Aryanization to Cultural Loss: The Destruction of th=
e Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria*.  includes 40 costumes.  V=
ancouver Holocaust Ed. Centre. 50-950 W. 41 St. Vancouver, BC V5Z 2N7.  804-=
264-0499.  through 5/15/00.<BR>
<BR>
*Woman of Fashion: Guendolen Plestcheeff Collection.  Museum of History and=
 Industry. Seattle.  through Oct 14.<BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
http://www.rlshep.com<BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3019806574_117666_MIME_Part--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 12:58:11 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 13:11:28 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
References: <37D73BA0.6C6C6B53@bc.sympatico.ca> <199909101510.JAA13174@email.boisestate.edu> <37D940B1.781CC2B5@home.com> <37D9432F.20BFC6C3@serv.net>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:
> 
> *I'm* waiting with bated breath to hear all about a leather
> cotehardie. Ack!!  Sounds hot.  In more ways than one.  ;->  Merouda

I've got the main body almost done (center front is open still).  I need
to put in the lining and put on the sleeves although at this point I'm
probably going to make them tie-ons.  It's out of a midnight to navy
blue light to medium weight leather with the suede side out.  Because
it's a floor length I had to use three different sides to cut it out. 
It's seven panels (the back was cut on the fold) and will lace up the
front to a square neckline.  If I'm wearing it anywhere that isn't air
conditioned or cold I plan on wearing a farthingale under it to hold the
skirt away from my body.  It's really not that heavy and once I'm done
with the GS leader uniform and find my leader handbook and get the
brownie troop started and figure out how I'm going to pay for two more
root canals I *may* get it done!!  Oh, and the sleeves are cut to come
to my knuckles with a slight flare at the bottom from the wrist.

Kat
the truly exhausted!
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Subject: H-COST: re: medieval miscellania
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I don't know anything about the company, but the patterns have been around 
since I've been in the SCA -- 17 years. (Yikes!) I think it's safe to assume 
that standards have gone up in the last 17 years, although for all I know the 
people who drafted the patterns are all costuming geniuses.

I own two but I've never used them. I've always heard that they need a LOT of 
work.

Gail Finke

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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Helpful Pets
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>


 < but other than that, it went together smoothly and easily, even with
feline interference. >  

 

Jen

In know where you are coming from, except that my little four legged helpers
have shorter tails and longer ears. Two rabbits, who are both, convinced
that their nest should be lined with velvet, silk, with gold and silver
trimmings. It is always fun to find the long piece of fabric that you are
working on slowly moving off the cutting table, and out to the hall. It
never fails to amaze me how much a 7LB rabbit can pull. Add to that the fact
that one of them is a LONG haired white Angora. I have about given up on
working on black fabric, and I have found that even white velvet will
attract and show white fur. Some days I do remind both of them what lovely
Muffs they would make. But most of the time they are dears to live with.

Yours Stephen Bergdahl 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 13:32:33 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Helpful Pets
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I'm with you on this one... two out of my four cats
have decided their favorite place to sleep is my
cutting table.  It is the smooth white surface and is
very cool for them to sleep on... of course, this
means I can leave any half-cut patterns... pattern
tissue is their favorite toy!

sarah


>  < but other than that, it went together smoothly
> and easily, even with
> feline interference. >  
> 
>  
> 
> Jen
> 
> In know where you are coming from, except that my
> little four legged helpers
> have shorter tails and longer ears. Two rabbits, who
> are both, convinced
> that their nest should be lined with velvet, silk,
> with gold and silver
> trimmings. It is always fun to find the long piece
> of fabric that you are
> working on slowly moving off the cutting table, and
> out to the hall. It
> never fails to amaze me how much a 7LB rabbit can
> pull. Add to that the fact
> that one of them is a LONG haired white Angora. I
> have about given up on
> working on black fabric, and I have found that even
> white velvet will
> attract and show white fur. Some days I do remind
> both of them what lovely
> Muffs they would make. But most of the time they are
> dears to live with.
> 
> Yours Stephen Bergdahl 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:49:21 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Barbara Maren wrote:
> People always contend that there were no buttons in the middle ages. I
> don't know what kinds of buttons you mean, but when I was in the Danish
> Nationalmuseet in Kopenhagen in May, they had two complete outfits on
> display from the medieval period in Denmark (which began later than
> elsewhere, around 1000). These outfits were obviously replicas of dresses
> found at excavations or in bogs. And the sleeves did have buttons, a long
> row of small fabric-covered buttons all down the outside of the underarm,
> to get the narrow sleeve closed. I just don't find my notes on it. It was
> 11th or 12th century.

I doubt this. The cottes must have been the Hjerjolfsness ones and they
date from late 13th to 14th c. This is the time that more well to do people
started to use buttons.

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: The History of Costume
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:54:35 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Dietmar wrote:
> I've made up one of the
> garments this way and it worked wonderfully.

I have done two a long time ago. They came out wrong, both of them. It
almost looked as if Kohler never tried to make the costumes himself (or had
them made), because most of the medieval ones are just not right at all. By
now I can see why they are so muddled, but I couldn't then. I don't know
about the ones taken from vintage costumes (not my period ;-)

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Delurking Day
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

> I've been off the list for a little over a year and now finally have the
> time to enjoy it once more.  It's great to be back!  I've been lurking so
> far, but I'm sure you'll hear from me again eventually.
> 
Welcome back, Melanie, and well done.

Henk

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: meep!
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:55:43 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


Hi

Lauri wrote:
>  I'm a grad student (same age as you, Dianne,
> and I'd love to hear from you off the list), working on the birth of
> fashion in the fourteenth century.  

Please tell us more,

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi all,

Phew, that de-lurking day took some reading time...

Susan wrote:
> I fall somewhere in between "lurker" and "regular poster."  This is
> partially because of time constraints, and partially because the period I
> study (11th-14th century European, with a big emphasis on the 13th
century;
> although I also dabble in Norse and 16th century stuff) is not one of the
> ones which seems to attract as many enthusiasts (especially the 13th
> century, except for Henk, of course :-)
> 
That means we're in about the same league. Being a medieval advisor (we
advise on things medieval and I mean all things, not only costume) I tended
only to read about and jump in with answers for medieval stuff (1250-1350
is my specialist period) at first, but gradually got more interested in
other periods too. I always liked the costume of the late tudor common man
(Baldrick in Blackadder) with the beret, doublet and very full and wide
kneelenghth breeches, and dito of the 1625-30 common man. Having been to
Kirby Hall twice now and having seen the Tudors (a living history group)
and the Sealed Knot (a bit later, but what the heck...) I am more resolved
than ever. But where will I get the time? My 15th c outfit is not even
finished yet...

I must confess that I delete most stuff from later than 1650 and earlier
than 500 (not a lot, I give you...) and Scottish kilts and Irish leines
with the exception of mails on cloth, weaving and dying. I enjoy this list
immensely, have the feeling I know a lot of you almost personally and am
able to chuckle about a lot of the comments. Keep up the good work
everybody and thank you, Penny, for this wonderful idea.

Henk


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Med Misc 
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I've used several of the MM patterns with relatively good luck.  I don't
use their directions since I build for stage work.  I found that the
Kirtle pattern was printed wrong.  If you look at the front seamline
you'll notice a break in the black line.  If you just fill this in, the
Kirtle prows out at the top by 3/4 inch.  If the lines are put back 
together this is eliminated and the garment fits as it should.  I mocked
up for each size and did the final fit from that for my chorus members. 
I do my own sleeve pattern, since I like to incorporate a built in
gusset for stage movement.
We've also done a man's Tudor short gown (had to really let out the
waist).  I made an Italian overdress (high waist- 1450) that needed
little re-fitting for myself.  Wore it in the historic Masquerade at
CostCon13 (?) in Toronto.  That was the one where a Novice reproduced a
Worth gown and won the whole show!
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston, MA area
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 13:58:34 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Heather Jones" <HJones@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: medieval miscellania
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-Poster: "Heather Jones" <HJones@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com>

I'm sorry, I'm a day late for the "lurkers unite" party...

I thought I might try to come out of the closet (so to speak) and comment
here.  I have heard many bad things about the Med. Misc. patterns from
various people.  Having tried only one and about to starting working on two
others, I don't know if I like them yet or not.  I have no problems with
their directions, but the sizes of the different pieces do not always match
up.  I am thinking specifically of the men's Italian pattern (I forget
which view) but the sleeve did not fit into the arm hole of the doublet
(meaning the hole was too big for the sleeve).  You had to use the biggest
size sleeve to get it to fit.  Other than that, which was easy to fix, I
did not have a problem, and the doublet turned out great.

As I mentioned I am going to start working on a Tudor and Elizabethan gown.
 Has anyone used these Med. Misc. patterns?  If so, would you maybe have
any hints or things to say about it?  Also, do you think these patterns
might ever be re-vamped, improved, or "upgraded"?  Maybe a letter to the
company noting the difficulties in constructing a garment from the pattern
would help convince them that improvements might be needed?

<deep breath>  There, that wasn't so hard (my first post)
Suannoch


At 02:13 PM 9/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>I don't know anything about the company, but the patterns have been around 
>since I've been in the SCA -- 17 years. (Yikes!) I think it's safe to assume 
>that standards have gone up in the last 17 years, although for all I know the 
>people who drafted the patterns are all costuming geniuses.
>
>I own two but I've never used them. I've always heard that they need a LOT of 
>work.
>
>Gail Finke
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:12:06 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/10/1999 12:41:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
meribetha@zebra.net writes:

<< 
 Everyone...thanks to a wonderful list member I now know what kind of
 braid..but I still have no idea what the best attachment method for it
 is.  Help!
  >>
Hand sew it down....like they did. Still the best method.
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:00:14 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

I agree with everything that Kat has said but would add the following
If you are skiving the edges of the leather and turning the seams , they
will need te be hammered to flatten them ,  You should also stick them down
using either a leather adhesives or a rubber solution ; In period they used
a cow glue when necessary and later gutta percha;
Also see if you can get a wheel fitting to replace the foot on your sewing
machine, it makes life awhole lot easier.
Keep your leather needle sharp by occasionaly stiching two or three stitches
through some very fine 0000 "wet and dry" paper.   Nottoo many as you will
blunt ; Also make sure you keep the needle clean and have several spares;
you will break a few of them until you get you r tension and foot pressure
dead right.
with slashing, remember that the stretchability of the leather differs
greatly between working with the grain and againts it.  Grain being the line
form the tail to the head of the animal .
This will also effect things when stitching to non leather material  You may
find that rather than just feeding through the machine , you will have to
hole both pieces and push one pull the other to maintain the correct shape;
It comes with a little practice.
If everything seems to be going wrong tension wise, check you machine is
well lubricated and then place a small pies of beeswax on to p so that your
top thread will run through it especially with thicker cotton threads.
Polycotton pr full poly  is much better if you can want to cheat. Another
trick is too rewind your shuttle thread the other way around  I e balancing
the Z twist and S twist
I hope this helps

Dave


L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question : FOLLOWUP ?
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:08:40 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>




> >> -Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
> >> I have a pair of black shoes made from that God-awful, man-made suede
stuff
> >> that makes your feet sweat, ... <snip> ...
>              Dave--If this is a water color, won't it come off on sweaty
> feet/the socks covering them?  Just wondering.  Thank you for your
> thoughts/experience. -- Carol
>
Yes; and most other things that they come into contact with. (gg but true)
The only way colouring will not come off leather is when it is factory dyed,
and then its not  guaranteed;
I once visitted the experimental  section of ICI who make leather dyes and
was amazed at what they had to do to get color into leather.  Some of the
test pieces were left in the dyeing drums rotating at high speed solidly for
a fortnight. or two week in the US;
Dave

L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: medieval miscellania
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:

> I don't know anything about the company, but the patterns have been around 
> since I've been in the SCA -- 17 years. (Yikes!) I think it's safe to assume 
> that standards have gone up in the last 17 years, although for all I know the 
> people who drafted the patterns are all costuming geniuses.

I met the people who ran the company 15 or so years ago, through mutual
friends. I did not know them well, and I never worked with them on
costume, so I can't speak to their skills.  However, I did gather that the
quality of the patterns varied significantly from one to another,
depending on many factors. To begin with, different people created
different patterns, and the skill and knowledge of those people varied.
And I gather that some of patternmakers were very good in certain areas
and inexperienced in others, so the accuracy and success of the styles
varies accordingly.

I remember hearing discussion of some technical issues as well. Those of
you in the fashion biz know that a prototype for a pattern is typically
built on one model of a specific size and then scaled up and down from
there to generate other sizes. At least some of the MM patterns were
apparently drafted on to fit a very small woman; this can create problems
in proportion and scaling as you go up, so the lower sizes may fit true to
form, but the larger ones do not. I also remember one of the owners
talking about technical hassles with the company that did the scaling and
printing of the patterns; this may have affected the quality of the
product.

The people who did the drawings also varied in skill and experience. 
Another friend of mine -- a fairly skilled calligrapher/illuminator -- was
hired to do the finished copy of the instructions for one of the patterns. 
He did not sew. He was asked to make his drawings based on sketches, not
actual fabric pieces in process, and said that he had a great deal of
trouble making sense of the way various pieces of fabric were supposed to
be layered (this was for something like pouches or hats, I forget, where
there were many pieces to be stitched and turned). My friend got the
impression that the instructions had been written from memory, based on
the way the patternmaker felt the item "should" go together, not
necessarily the way the patternmaker had actually assembled the prototype.
As a result, some of the instructions may not have been workable in life. 

Also, in general, some styles just don't take well to modern pattern
methods without sacrificing a certain amount of authenticity, so the
makers do have to make certain concessions -- which may or may not be
acceptable to the buyers, and may or may not be successful in attaining
the proper look and fit. That would be true for anyone trying to make
modern patterns of certain medieval styles. 

I think the bottom line is, try them if you're willing to take your
chances. It may work, it may not. It may work for you and not for someone
else. It may need a little alteration, or it may be completely off-base. 
But you probably can't assume that your (or anyone's) experience with any
one MM pattern will hold true for another. 

--Robin

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:21:53 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

Kat, we have to ask - do you have documentation for a leather
cotehardie???  And what are you going to wear under it?  I can only
visualise this as totally skin tight, leather side to skin ... or should
I go and find a fetish list?

Jean
>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:
>> 
>> *I'm* waiting with bated breath to hear all about a leather
>> cotehardie. Ack!!  Sounds hot.  In more ways than one.  ;->  Merouda
>
>I've got the main body almost done (center front is open still).  I need
>to put in the lining and put on the sleeves although at this point I'm
>probably going to make them tie-ons.  It's out of a midnight to navy
>blue light to medium weight leather with the suede side out.  Because
>it's a floor length I had to use three different sides to cut it out. 
>It's seven panels (the back was cut on the fold) and will lace up the
>front to a square neckline.  If I'm wearing it anywhere that isn't air
>conditioned or cold I plan on wearing a farthingale under it to hold the
>skirt away from my body.  It's really not that heavy and once I'm done
>with the GS leader uniform and find my leader handbook and get the
>brownie troop started and figure out how I'm going to pay for two more
>root canals I *may* get it done!!  Oh, and the sleeves are cut to come
>to my knuckles with a slight flare at the bottom from the wrist.
>
>Kat
>the truly exhausted!
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 14:37:48 -0500
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Jean Waddie wrote:
> 
> Kat, we have to ask - do you have documentation for a leather
> cotehardie???  And what are you going to wear under it?  I can only
> visualise this as totally skin tight, leather side to skin ... or
> should I go and find a fetish list?

No documentation...didn't even look...just wanted to see how it would
come out (I'll probably be wearing it at an SF con).  I'll put a chemise
under it as I do with my other cotehardies.

Kat
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:39:06 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: medieval miscellania
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

I was told that Historically Yours (the main/only? distributor of MM) owns 
the rights to reproduce the patterns, but not to alter them.  I replaced my 
lost women's Ital Ren this last spring and discovered that not only were the 
pieces not stacked on top of each other, but they also seemed to be somewhere 
in the realm of usability without major alteration.  I don't know if the 
planets were in the right alignment or what, but it was surprising.  The next 
trip to the VA Ren Faire (where Hist. Yours has a shop), I asked they'd been 
corrected and was told that they hadn't been and weren't likely to be as the 
original designer wasn't interested in them anymore.  

--Jen
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 16:27:49 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Glove pattern
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

Elaine,

Thank you so much for the glove info.  I went to the annual juried
"Faire at New Boston" held Labor Day (U.S.) at George Rogers Clark 
Park, close to Springfield, Ohio.  It was beastly hot, almost 90 degrees, 
full sun, and stifling humidity but still loads of fun. The time period 
covered is approx. 1790-1810.  I bought two "white deer" skins to
attempt to make a pair of gloves to which I could attach embroidered
gauntlets (Elizabeth I gloves).  This is uncharted territory and
may never get done but the book reference came at just the right time.

Marsha        (I enjoyed reading all the posts from lurkers.)
-------------------------------------------------------------------

>A few weeks ago someone on this list was looking for a pattern to sew kid
>gloves for herself. This evening I happened to stumble on some pretty
>extensive instructions in an old library book:
>
>Novel Materials
>Editor: David L. Harrison
>(from the series: The Art of Sewing, edited
>by Carlotta Erwin)
>New York: Time-Life Books, 1974
>
>The glove chapter falls on pages 70-83. It contains patterns, special
>instructions on preparing the leather for gloves (things I'd never seen in
>any other leather book!) and sewing instructions for a couple of different
>glove styles. It looks quite interesting!
>
>Elaine
>(who is also delurking for the first time tonight!)

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 12:42:59 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Penny asked:

> Are our lurkers introverts????

> From the webpage article, Revenge of the Introverts
> <http://www.usyd.edu.au/su/social/papers/livingoo.html>:
> "Yet, silent as they may be, introverts can have a lot to say given the
> right forum. They've found that the internet can help them communicate
> in their preferred manner; a written dialogue with time to pause for
> thought and analysis."
>
> Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
> 9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
> introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!

I wasn't sure whether I belong in the lurker category or not, so I sat it out.
It sure was great hearing from all the voices we don't see here often enough.
I hope the simple act of posting once will help some of those lurkers get over
their fear and speak up more often. ;-)

The introvert/extrovert question is a good one. When I joined the SCA 8 years
ago, I was very shy. Somehow, wearing dresses (okay, they're really tunics)
has helped me overcome that shyness. Within a couple years I was the Castellan
(newcomer representative/welcome wagon). I just recently stepped up as the
herald (Master of Ceremonies) for our Barony (large CA county), so I'd better
not be introverted, because it's my job to run the King's court. If I hadn't
gotten over my stage fright, I could never stand there and be at the center of court.

Take care,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 16:55:55 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Project Pack Rat
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>.........I already have 2000 yards of fabric in 
>my sewing room and an idea list that gets added to quicker than I can 
>complete the projects that are already on it. 

Loved it, Jessica!
There are moments when I wish civilization WOULD break down over Y2K
just so I could stay home and organize all the fabrics and projects!

I keep collecting projects on the theory that when I retire (5 yr/10 mos.)
even if no one is still doing this stuff, I'll have enough projects on hand 
to keep me busy until I go to that Great Fitting Room in the Sky :-}
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>>Nowhere was there an indication that the edges of these slashes were 
>>cared for in any way (so as not to fray)....
--------------
>If you slash the fabric perfectly diagonally (is this "on the bias?"), it 
>shouldn't fray. Especially when you do it to tightly woven fabrics....
>slashes from shoulder to waist, I would say that they would have *had* 
>to line them in some way. 
--------------
Last night I picked up my copy of "Fashion in Detail." Yes, its expensive 
and there are no pictures of the full garment but the close-ups are great.
The book and my museum hopping bring me to the sad conclusion that some 
types of slashes WERE painstakingly finished on the edges.  

I'm working on the theory that the "pinked" type of ornamental slashing, 
even when quite extensive, doesn't have a visible means to stop fraying.
Previously on the list, someone mentioned gum arabic or other mixtures 
may have been painted on the back of the fabric.  (?)

There is a beautiful silk diagonally slashed over-garment at the 
V&A that has little fraying and several examples in "Fashion in Detail."  

My heart sunk with dread when I realized the long "ribbon" type slashes,
seen in German, Swiss, landsknecht, and women's mid-17th c. sleeves
do appear to be lined and finished on the edges. (Too much work!)  There is 
an incredible cream silk doublet with long vertical slashes in "Fashion 
in Detail" showing detailed finishing and lining of the long edges. [1600?]

It also shows close-ups of mid-18th c. men's coats and even heavy and fulled 
wools had finished edges on the pockets, hems and the front centers.  No 
unfinished edges.  Of course, these are wealthy people's clothes.....
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 17:32:58 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: 17th century
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>To Jill of ECWS: I'm thrilled to hear that there *is* another 17th century 
>enthusiast on the list. It's always seemed as though I was the only one!
>Kate Bunting
>King's Lifeguard of Foote/ Captaine Generalls Musick, Sealed Knot
--------
Jill and Kate,  
I do 17th c. (Cavalier Association, Columbus Ohio, US). We do ECW in the US
and American colonial 17th century.  This summer, went to the muster at
Salem Village 1630. If I ever get to the UK again (last trip was 1984),
I'd love to attend some ECW and other events!

Marsha Hamilton 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 16:29:37 1999
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Subject: Re: Re: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
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-Poster: Natekakar@aol.com

You can use a running stitch that is long on the inside, teeny on the topside.

(Tried it once on a machine, but it's a nightmare if you already have the 
sleeve sewn together.)

Hey!  I've posted something two days in a row!!!!!

K.
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 16:52:34 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Finishing on Slashed Edges
In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.32.19990910172058.006c3710@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Well, another solution is to sew the size the hole is going to be with
another fabric that is only a patchwork size in that area with it. Do this
over and over until the entire sleeve is covered. Slash between the narrow
lines of the stiching and turn the fabric to the wrong side of the sleeve.
Turn the sleeve over and start either tacking them down or sew them
together for a lining. Lined is always better than fray check and lasts
longer. They probably used the slashing technique on strong, closely woven
fabric that would not fray easily due to the weave.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 16:53:55 1999
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-Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net

The slashes were often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or
gum tragacanth. Also as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a
die you hit with a hammer) could be used hot this often sealed the edge
of the fabric. I've experimented with both of these and they work

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 16:56:22 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:11:05 -0500
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: sewing leather
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?>>

You do need to be very concerned with grain in leather, particularly with
garments that fit closely (like jerkins and doublets). It's different from
fabric, but it's still very important. It stretches a lot one way, and very
little the other, so you need to plan very carefully. It can also stretch
(strangely) across the grain.

Any pinking, punching or slashing should be very small, because anything
larger will act like a cut, and pull or tear further. There's no way of
stabilizing, so keep them small (under 1/2 inch.)


Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 17:03:39 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Med Misc & other things
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:18:58 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>Medieval Misc. patterns tend to be awful - I can't recommend them. They
>say they were drafted by Laurels of the SCA but they don't say they were
>drafted by *costuming* Laurels.  I can't make heads or tails of them
>either so they weren't drafted by calligraphy and Illumination Laurels
>either.

The research sheets I've always found to be useful. The patterns are another
story. The smaller sizes can be acceptable if cut out of muslin and adjusted
on a real person first, and I've generally found the men's patterns work
better than the women's.  But even if they were drafted by costume Laurels,
they could still be sub-par--many of the costume Laurels I know have no
particular skill in pattern drafting;  they're in fact a lot better at
draping on an actual person without a pattern.  (Besides, pattern drafting
for a modern scaled pattern isn't exactly what most people get their Laurels
for :-)

Susan

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:17:04 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: How many list members?
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-Poster: Finafyr@aol.com

I occasionally come out of Lurk mode...I just don't wish to offend or 
bother...and I do have introverted tendencies <smile>
Finafyr
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 17:15:19 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003901befba0$ffeb1c50$0cea7080@witsend2.Princeton.EDU>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Button holes
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:25:52 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

WOW!!!  Thanks! What a great piece of costuming trivia!  

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com 

> button
> 
> usually disklike piece of solid material having holes or a shank through
> which it is sewed to one side of an article of clothing and used to
> fasten or close the garment by passing through a loop or hole in the
> other side. Purely decorative, nonutilitarian buttons are also
> frequently used on clothing. 
> 
> The ancient Greeks and Etruscans fastened their tunics at the
> shoulders with buttons and loops. In medieval Europe, garments
> were laced together or fastened with brooches or clasps and points,
> until buttonholes were invented in the 13th century. 
> 
> [rest of item truncated as inapplicable.]
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:52:04 PDT
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-Poster: "kris .." <ionization@hotmail.com>

ok. I have the material, and am waiting for the pattern. I am new to this 
list, so if it's been discussed already, sorry.. but I really want to know 
:]

I'm making version "B" with version "A"'s sleeves out of a linen/cotton 
blend in a color that matches a Color Box stamp pad I've got :] "Colonial 
Blue". I don't have quite enough, so I'm thinking of lengthening the hem 
with some navy I have in the same fabric. Is this a period thing to do for 
It. Ren? My SCA period is 1475-1525 German, so I don't know :] Also, I was 
wondering if doing the trims & sleeves & my bits of underskirt that show in 
a color called "Tea Rose", kind of a peachy pink, and palest yellow would be 
ok. I realize that colors were used in excess, and they *do* look good 
together.. :D

I am also going to fit the bodice first, and change it by making the front 
underbust seam straight across, and using gathers instead of the darts.. Is 
there a way to avoid darts and gathers altogether?

oh, and pleating the skirt onto the bodice would be more accurate than the 
gathers, right?

*grin* thanks for any and all responses!

Kris

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:57:44 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Linda wrote:

> I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a leather
> sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and should go through
> the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer stitches than I would with
> woven fabric.

Leather needles are triangular in cross section which helps cut through the
leather without stretching it. Longer stitches will help make the garment
stronger. If the stitches are too close together, the stitches can rip out,
and you'll end up with a perfect pattern in leather minus the seam allowance.

> I'm thinking about using some slashing and pinking to add interest and line
> it with a bright, contrasting color to show off the slashes. Any suggestions
> on the slashes?

I've heard of people using a sharp chisel to make quick consistent slashes.
I've also heard of someone using a drill to make consistent round holes
through many layered pieces at once. (Although, I'm not sure I'd recommend
this) I also understand that it's a good idea to punch a round hole at the end
of long slashes so that the leather is less likely to tear at the ends.

> Should I keep them smaller (1/2 inch or so big) so that the leather won't
> stretch? Seems to me (the book is at home so I can't reference it now) that
> the pictures I've seen in Janet Arnold show the pinking and slashing to be
> fairly small.

Consider that the more holes that you make, the more stretch that you will
have. This is true whether you have a handful of large slashes or a myriad or
tiny slashes. In Germany, slashes were often larger than in England, but both
were done.

> As far as seams go, I was planning to use a modified flat felled seam
> when sewing leather to leather - sew right sides together, trim one
> seam allowance to about 1/4 inch, press both seam allowances in the same
> direction with the longer one on top, then top stitch in place (just like
> regular flat felled only the raw edge isn't turned under to keep bulk down).
> Anyone have experience, suggestions on seaming leather?

I'd recommend that you sew the seams and hammer the seams open to either side
and glue the seam allowance (1/4" or so) down with barge cement.

> For sewing leather to fabric lining, I was planning to just stitch as usual
> (with longer stitch length). Will this work?

Depends on how you are lining it. Is it a bag lining, or are you lining
particular areas only? I'm not sure how you would work a bag lining. Sewing
the lining around each cut out area is the best method, but incredibly tedious.

> I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?
> I know that with synthetic suede (Ultrasuede), you can turn the pattern
> pieces anyway you want.

There is no grain line per se, but there are differing amounts of stretch in
different parts of the hide. Some hides will have stretch marks that run in a
particular direction. You will also want to work around blemishes in the
surface of the hide.

> I plan to use three layers: lining, interlining, and leather. Usually
> when I make a doublet or bodice, I treat the lining and interlining as
> one unit. Would it be better to use the interlining (which is the layer
> that will show under the leather) and the leather as one unit instead.
> Or does it matter?

That seems like an unnecessary number of layers. I see most leather doublets
as unlined. I can't see a satisfactory way of lining with that many layers,
because the leather will stretch in different ways than the fabric lining.
Leather stretches in the heat and shrinks in the cold, but the fabric won't. I
guess that I'd rather line areas of slashing than try to line the whole thing.
Perhaps you can make horizontal rows of slashing and sew the lining down with
a horizontal seam between rows. The slashes don't have to be horizontal, but
arranged in rows horizontally, such as:
----------
//////////
----------
Of course, the same thing could be done vertically.

Any other caveats?

I don't know of anything off the top of my head, but I'll think about it over
the weekend and see if I come up with anything...and see if anyone else has input.

Good luck,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 18:03:14 1999
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From: lisaleon@hawaii.edu
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Finishing on Slashed Edges
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-Poster: lisaleon@hawaii.edu

Marsha J. Hamilton wrote:

> The book and my museum hopping bring me to the sad conclusion that some 
> types of slashes WERE painstakingly finished on the edges.  
> 
> My heart sunk with dread when I realized the long "ribbon" type slashes,
> seen in German, Swiss, landsknecht, and women's mid-17th c. sleeves
> do appear to be lined and finished on the edges. (Too much work!)  There is 
> an incredible cream silk doublet with long vertical slashes in "Fashion 
> in Detail" showing detailed finishing and lining of the long edges. [1600?]

and

ches@io.com wrote:

> Well, another solution is to sew the size the hole is going to be with
> another fabric that is only a patchwork size in that area with it.

	Is the lining and finishing you saw done this way?  This is how I
was planning to do it anyway but it would be nice to know if it's accurate
or if I'm just making do.

annora

Lisa Leong        *       <|
lisaleon@hawaii.edu	  .^.  *
		     *  .=.=.=.       *
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Someone (Joan?) was asking about red satin ankle boots.  If what you're
looking for is Victorian styled boots, go to a bridal store that sells shoes
and ask to see their catalogs.  Most of them don't keep them in stock, but
several styles of fabric boots are available by special order, and they can
have them custom dyed  to match your swatch.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Pinking Tools?

Where?

I'd love to find some of these.

Thanks,

Drea

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote:

> 
> -Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net
> 
> The slashes were often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or
> gum tragacanth. Also as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a
> die you hit with a hammer) could be used hot this often sealed the edge
> of the fabric. I've experimented with both of these and they work
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 19:52:32 EDT
Subject: H-COST: MM- Italian Renaissance pattern
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-Poster: Nancygwyn@aol.com

I bought my copy of the pattern almost ten years ago, so I cannot speak to 
the patterns that are currently being sold.

Starting out as a fairly competent home sewer, I was able to achieve a 
reasonable result with the help of a friend who understood fit and was able 
to clue me in as far as the necessity of boning was concerned (being 
relatively well-endowed).

Over the years I have used the bodices from the pattern as starting points 
since I am just know starting to learn to draft patterns.  My recommendations 
on using this particular pattern are as follows (some of these are rather 
obvious to experienced costumers, but they are lessons I needed to learn):

1.  Do your research first to determine exactly what the dress looks like 
that you want to make.  Although the drawings on the pattern are helpful, 
looking at the original artwork will give you many more ideas as to fabric 
and drape as well as decoration and color. Note: not all the dresses shown on 
the instruction sheet can be made from the pattern pieces, particularly the 
later fashions (post 1500).

2.  Adjust the flat pattern to fit your measurements.  I would recommend 
making a copy of the original as it is unlikely that the first pattern will 
be completely correct for you.  (I concentrate on the bodice and admit that I 
have not used the skirt pattern.)

3.  Make a muslin from this pattern.  Have a friend who knows fit and 
understands the look you are trying to achieve fit the muslin on you.  Pay 
particular attention to the shoulders that you are getting the right line and 
support.  Remember that Italian Renaissance bodices fit very snugly (mistake 
#1 that I see in most SCA versions- they do not fit tightly enough).

Note:  Wearing an undergarment that will at the very least approximate what 
you plan to wear is critical.  Although I used to build all the support in to 
the dress, I now wear a fabric corselette (no bones) to control and support 
my bust.

You will also need to make a muslin of the sleeve to ensure that it fits you 
and the bodice before cutting out your fashion fabric.  This is also the time 
to make sure that you know how you plan to do the sleeves, a major feature of 
Italian Ren dresses.

4.  Make adjustments to your flat pattern.  Remember to cut out the bodice 
with the center front and back on the straight of the grain.

5.  Whether you decide to put in boning or not (slender ladies may not need 
it), I would recommend using an interlining to give a better shape and 
stability to the bodice.  Definitely use one if there will be no corselette.

6.  Note: even on the dresses that do not specify linings to the sleeves I 
would carefully consider adding one in order to achieve the proper drape of 
the sleeve.

7.  As noted above, I have not used the skirt pattern.  The second most 
common mistake I see in the SCA is not enough fabric used in the skirt.  
Although I have used two 45" widths of a heavy fabric in my skirts, I now 
generally try to use three fabric widths.  One friend, a Renaissance 
costuming Laurel, suggested the general rule of 4x the underbust.

8.  Fastenings:  I recommend using brass Roman drapery rings to either lace 
up the front or side.  I have also used hook and eye tape, on occasion 
supplementing them with decorative hooks and eyes to distract from the modern 
ones.  Based on my research I have never seen an Italian lace up the center 
back.  The lacing on the side back seams appears to have originated sometime 
in the 1530s (anyone who can cite an earlier version please let me know; it 
would simplify my next dress!).

I hope these are helpful to those using this pattern or doing Renaissance 
women's dress in general.  If you have specific questions concerning one of 
the views, please contact me.  I have worked with almost all of them at some 
point.

There, I de-lurked!

Nancy Stengel
(Maddalena Salutati in the SCA)



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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Dress forms
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-Poster: rima@anet.net

Hi again

Well, after full intending to lurk, I find myself all over the list with
questions:

OK, so who knows of a terrific dress form that 's out there, that's easily
adjustable between two women's sizes - my friend and I wanna share, but
she's 4 inches taller and thinner!

Am I dreaming???

I was looking at this one:

 http://farthingales.on.ca/judy.htm

Anybody have any thoughts on how well this might work?  Anybody own one???

Rima


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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Victorian Dress Book
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 17:16:10 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Not sure which Joan this was directed to (Jurancich or me) but if it was for
me....been there, done that, sitting on my bookshelf  :-)

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 19:07:47 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Strike is over!!!
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 17:23:30 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Stepford Moms!!! I love it!!!  Too true!!


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 19:18:15 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost:
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 17:33:57 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Ah, excellent idea! (Margo and Teddy) I think I shall do just that!  I don't
know why I am always so durned obsessed with accessories and props!!


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 19:37:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 17:49:01 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 10:12 PM 09/10/1999,  dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote: The slashes were
often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or gum tragacanth. Also
as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a die you hit with a hammer)
could be used hot this often sealed the edge of the fabric. I've
experimented with both of these and they work
           Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 19:54:28 1999
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:57:08 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

> >Does anyone know of any uses in medieval/renaissance periods of a
> >lightweight wool such as a gabardine? It's really lovely material and if
I
> >was inclined to make myself a dress suit, it would be of this material.
As
> >it turns, I was intending to make some capes and trews from it and
wanted a
> >heavier weight.

I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C --
properly felt was made from unspun wool.

Kristin


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 20:29:29 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Victorian "Fancy Dress"
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 08:32:18 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Try *The Book of Costume, or Annals of Fashion" (1846) by A
Lady of Rank (The Countess of Wilton), annotated and
published by R.L. Shep, ISBN 0-914046-04-7.  Early research
on world costume over a range of centuries. Got mine through
Amazon.com.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of JPMcTeer@aol.com
> Sent: Friday, September 10, 1999 1:10 AM
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Victorian "Fancy Dress"
>
>
>
> -Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com
>
> I have committed to do a (slide) lecture for the local
> Victorian Society in
> October on ideas for costumes for our Victorian "masked
ball"
> next January.
> I have found Planche 1881and Strutt (rare book room) in
our
> library catalogs,
> as well as the Butterick Masquerade book for 1892.  I
> purchased the new book
> on Canadian "Magnificent Entertainments" by Cynthia
Cooper. I
> haven't checked
> yet on the dates, but I think that Vecellio, Racinet, and
> Braun & Schneider
> came out before 1900 (and are now in Dover reprint.)
>
> This is only a 45 minute lecture, but I would like to make
a
> listing of books
> (especially cheap Dover reprints) for a handout.  What
have I
> missed?  Is
> there anything with color plates?
>
> Does anyone want to sell me copies of their slides?
>
> As you might know, I usually lecture and do workshops on
> corsets and other
> "body-shaping garments" so I don't have much on this
topic,
> unless I own the
> books for some other reason.  I haven't had time to check
> them all yet.
>
> Thanks to you all for delurking and for the useful thread
on
> the Laughing
> Moon corset, chemise, and kit.  I too am a very satisfied
customer of
> Farthingales for supplies.
>
> Joan McTeer
> Minneapolis
> (who by now has missed the 9/9/99 deadline!)
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 20:29:30 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <agast@tds.net>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Bag Sleeves on Leines
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 07:34:56 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

The bag sleeve probably appeared on the leine about the same
time it appeared in fashion elsewhere, or perhaps somewhat
later.   The de Heere water colors show them, and there are
some woodcuts of them too 1400-1600.  Without Dunbar and
McClintock and Packenham on my desk, I can't be more
specific.  The bag sleeve may have appeared somewhat
earlier, but I'd have to check those references for better
precision. The bag sleeve appears to have been worn only by
the Anglo-Irish, soldiers of upper rank.  Other styles of
leine sleeves were worn in the same time period by poorer,
less fashionable people.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Anne Gast
> Sent: Thursday, September 09, 1999 6:40 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST:De-Lurking
>
>
>
> -Poster: Anne Gast <>
>
> OK, I have built my courage enough to delurk.  This is
worse
> than talking
> to a room full of people.  (I guess, this is talking to
more than a
> roomful.)
>
> I make costumes for IFGS and Magic Horizens, my live
action,
> live combat
> (foam weapons, no pain), medieval/fantasy role-playing
groups.
>
> I lurk because I feel I don't know enough to contribute,
but I love
> learning from this list and from the books recommended.  I
especially
> enjoyed the Irish costuming threads.
>
> I have wondered when the bagged sleeves on leines started
> appearing.  Or
> conversely, what period is it appropiate not to have them?
>
> Anne
> Madison, Wisconsin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 20:37:38 1999
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To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:49:32 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

Hi all--

I'm pretty new to the list, and so far a lurker.  I'm planning on doing some
leather and suede doublets myself, and since I sew professionally, much of
it leather, I thought I might help.  I'm planning on doing the Janet Arnold
doublet with the layer of flower cutwork for one of them...

Did you know you can make suede harem pants?  Probably not period, but
interesting for modern wear.  The patterns I use take about 35 square feet
per pair.

>I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a
>leather sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and
>should go through the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer
>stitches than I would with woven fabric.
>
I =don't= use a leather needle, and I've been sewing leather for a decade!
I find that a heavy topstitching needle works best, a 110/18.  I don't use a
leather needle because if you have to move any stitching, the holes will
close up most of the time on suede and be less noticeable on leather.
Leather needles leave a triangular hole that I actually had start rips in
some leather.  I used the same stitch length as sewing cloth.  I also use
really heavy duty thread (which is why you need topstitching needles that
have large eyes).  You can get it in tiny spools at some sewing stores, and
I forget what it's called, but it's used for upholstery and canvas.  I by it
in large cones at an industrial/upholstery supply shop.  Cones are only
about $5-6 dollars and they last for ages.  They work fine with a home
sewing machine if you get a cone thread holder.  Any topstitching I do with
regular thread, so I can get away with using black heavy thread for most
dark colors.

>As far as seams go, I was planning to use a modified flat felled
>seam when sewing leather to leather - sew right sides together,
>trim one seam allowance to about 1/4 inch, press both seam
>allowances in the same direction with the longer one on top, then
>top stitch in place (just like regular flat felled only the raw edge isn't
>turned under to keep bulk down). Anyone have experience,
>suggestions on seaming leather? For sewing leather to fabric
>lining, I was planning to just stitch as usual (with longer stitch
>length). Will this work?
>
Some home machines don't want to go through very many layers of even light
suede or leather, and if they do, odds are good the tension will give you
fits.  My home machine sewed many a garment, but I had to baby it sometimes,
and it still needs repairs from an elkhide vest I agreed to do at a foolish
moment years ago.  Home tanned thick, nasty stuff that clung to the needle
and threw the tension off all the time.  I use a Bernina industrial now, but
I really should get out my Thomsons mini-industrial leather sewing machine
and get used to it...  Anyway, I use half inch seams and open them and glue
them.  I use Aleene's Tacky Glue for work, but I might used contact cement
for something that I thought would get a lot of use and drycleaning.

>I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?
>I know that with synthetic suede (Ultrasuede), you can turn the
>pattern pieces anyway you want.
>
In suede it matters!  Also, different parts of the skin take dye differently
sometimes, so watch to see that one end isn't darker and thicker than the
other (usually toward what was the back end of the animal). I cut pants with
a piecing line halfway down each leg at an angle, and I try to cut the top
of the pants at the top or neck/shoulder area and lower legs below.

Other than that, I'm going to be finding out myself...

Kels

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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: "historic costuming" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 18:55:02 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello.  I missed the de-lurking day, but reading all the posts tonight was
inspiring!  I have posted maybe twice in the time I've been reading and
learning from this list, about 6 months.

So, I join in the group of people saying *Hi!  I'm lurking but I have a
question!!".

I have an amazing way with sewing machines - have broken 4 in the last year.
Even on of the indestructible black Singer straight sew models.  Now I
handsew everything, and found that I really like handsewing much more than
working with a machine.  This works well with the 20th century Norse
costuming I've been doing, but the thought of doing later period clothing
worries me.  Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or doublet?  Any advice
would be helpful.  Especially about handsewing in an authentic manner (if
I'm stuck doing it, why not have a little fun with it!!) or materials or
methods to avoid.

Zelda

Interests:  10th Century Scandinavia and York, Early Elizabethan, 1560 -
1570 Spanish and trying to find information about 1400 to 1500
Dutch/Netherlands, of all classes.

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From: "J. Karnelian" <karnelian@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Santa Cruz Renaissance clothes -Lothlorien
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 19:05:04 PDT
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-Poster: "J. Karnelian" <karnelian@hotmail.com>

     I am looking for contact information for a Renaissance/gothic clothing 
store in Santa Cruz which I think is called Lothlorien. Or something 
similar. The owner is a woman named Lorian. My  girlfriend makes clothes and 
she was told that this store might be interested in her stuff. If anyone 
knows the adress for their website, or their e-mail, or their phone number, 
or regular postal adress, we would appreciate that information a lot.

______________________________________________________
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 19:05:57 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

I'm not sure what style or exact color of red we are talking about. But I was recently looking for bridal shoes online and I came across...hmm  http://www.peterfox.com I believe it was, anyway they are the people that made the pinkish-red boots that Kate winslet wears in the titanic movie (with the jump dress I think they said) anyway they sell them on their website, the same style also comes in white it you wanted it hand dyed to a different color.


---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 


On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 16:38:27   Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Someone (Joan?) was asking about red satin ankle boots.  If what you're
>looking for is Victorian styled boots, go to a bridal store that sells shoes
>and ask to see their catalogs.  Most of them don't keep them in stock, but
>several styles of fabric boots are available by special order, and they can
>have them custom dyed  to match your swatch.  
>
>Margo
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 02:16:35 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 09:48:40 -0700 (PDT), the following was written in
this electric book by Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>:

>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>.. a whole 
>>reel of 1/2" reed costs about 7 bucks & makes dozens of corsets, with 30 to 
>>40 bones apiece.  Just cut them to length, round off the ends, rub them with 
>>wax, and insert.
>
>Do you have a mail order source for reed?
>
>Margo

It can be purchased at many large craft supply stores ( such  as
Michael's, Hobby Lobby, JoAnn's etc in the basketweaving supplies if
the store near you carries such supplies) and may, if you are in a
large metropolitan area, possibly also be found under basketry or
chair-cane repair in the telephone directory.

You want the half-round kind so that you will not look like you are
corrugated once you take it off... ;)

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:40:58 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
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-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> 
> At 10:12 PM 09/10/1999,  dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote: The slashes were
> often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or gum tragacanth. Also
> as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a die you hit with a hammer)
> could be used hot this often sealed the edge of the fabric. I've
> experimented with both of these and they work
>            Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
> these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
> arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol
>  _________________________________________________________________


There is a gentleman here in Ansteorra, that made that leather doublet
from Janet Arnorlds Patterns of fashion, complete with the pinking and
slashes, etc.  He got the dies from a leather working place.

Alexandria
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 21:36:46 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 19:47:44 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:57 PM 09/10/1999, Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net> aka Kristin,
replied to this question:  Does anyone know of any uses in
medieval/renaissance periods of a lightweight wool such as a gabardine?
saying:  I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C
-- properly felt was made from unspun wool. 
      Kristin--So gabardine is a heavily fulled wool?  I don't spin and
don't know nearly enough about textiles.  I appreciate every bit of help I
get to learn...thank you in advance. Carol
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Bag Sleeves on Leines
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


I believe that there is often some confusion as to what is meant by "bag
sleeves"  To some people, it means a very wide sleeve with the end sewn up
most of the way, forming a bag.  But...to some people, especially when
discussing leines, a "bag sleeve" may mean a sleeve that has gathers along
the top of the arm, so that when worn, it resembles a drawstring bag. this
is the meaning I was thinking of when on several occasions, I have stated
that leines did not have bag sleeves.  

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 21:59:49 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: Delurking day delayed
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

What's a poor introvert to do? I sent this message yesterday, and it 
vanished into cyber-limbo. Here we go again:

I usually lurk, because my interest area is pretty darn obscure : the dress 
of the mixed-blood (i.e. half-breed) 'country wives' of Canadian fur 
traders, 1774-1821. My last project was sewing a new, more historically 
correct pair of knee-high leggins of red Melton cloth just in time for Rocky 
Mountain House's bicentennial in July. Then Joan Jurancich (hi!) very 
politely pointed out I was wearing them the wrong way around. Thanks, Joan! 
(Really!) And thanks to everyone who's answered the questions I've 
occasionally posted to the list over the last three years. 

Your obliged and obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 16:57:17 -0500
From: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
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-Poster: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>


--------------E4A2D44238D2CADA06EE8D71
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Greetings everyone:

I'm kinda late for 09-09-99. An introvert, and damn proud of it, I only post
when I feel I can make a contribution or pick people's brains. Besides,
it's hard enough to wrestle my husband off ebay, (wasting our hard-earned
sustenance - it would be cheaper if he drank and ran around with wild
women), long enough for me read the e-mail. Sigh! I wanted him to become
more computer literate, but I created a monster! As well, if I was a regular
participant, members might ask me how the such n' such project was
going, and I would be forced to admit it has joined the ranks of my other 1/4,
1/2, 3/4, and 99.9% finished projects! Although it appears as if I'm not the
only
one who doesn't finish a costume until the morning of an event.

Not long ago someone posted a message regarding news of another
"iceman" discovered in British Columbia. I'm ashamed to admit that
I shrugged it off as another internet rumour - after all I'm Canadian,
and I haven't heard anything about it! Time went by, and no one on
the list responded, and there was nothing in the news about it. My
opinion was confirmed.

Much to my surprise, a recent issue of the American journal "Science"
had a brief article on the discovery. Unfortunately, idiot girl galloped out the

door ("It's Friday, blessed Friday, yippee!) without her backpack containing
the article.

>From memory - the body was discovered August 14th in a glacier in
northern BC by hikers, and is now in storage in the Yukon until native
groups and researchers reach an agreement on how to research it. The
article suggested it was expected that an amicable agreement could be
reached, unlike the case of Kennewick (Kessewick?) man, a controversial
U.S.find.

The body was reported as wearing a finely woven hat and a cloak of small
pelts similar to squirrel or groundhog. A spear thrower was also found.
The body could be as old as 10,000 years old or as recent as the early
European occupation.

"Science" is published by the American Association for the Advancement of
Science, relying on my unreliable memory, and they have a web page with
access to a few, but not all, of their articles.

Off-topic - I'm rather annoyed that this has received so little coverage in the
Canadian media. Sometimes this self-effacing Canadian attitude goes a little
too far, (speaking as an ardent Canadian nationalist) especially when it
involves
such an interesting find.

Recently there was a book published on Canadian social attitudes called
"Sex in the Snow". A catchy title, and I can't help but wonder if this iceman
didn't meet his end....

And my apologies to the original poster, who ever you are! I will never doubt
you
again.

Sheridan Alder

--------------E4A2D44238D2CADA06EE8D71
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
Greetings everyone:

<P>I'm kinda late for 09-09-99. An introvert, and damn proud of it, I only
post
<BR>when I feel I can make a contribution or pick people's brains. Besides,
<BR>it's hard enough to wrestle my husband off ebay, (wasting our hard-earned
<BR>sustenance - it would be cheaper if he drank and ran around with wild
<BR>women), long enough for me read the e-mail. Sigh! I wanted him to become
<BR>more computer literate, but I created a monster! As well, if I was
a regular
<BR>participant, members might ask me how the such n' such project was
<BR>going, and I would be forced to admit it has joined the ranks of my
other 1/4,
<BR>1/2, 3/4, and 99.9% finished projects! Although it appears as if I'm
not the only
<BR>one who doesn't finish a costume until the morning of an event.

<P>Not long ago someone posted a message regarding news of another
<BR>"iceman" discovered in British Columbia. I'm ashamed to admit that
<BR>I shrugged it off as another internet rumour - after all <B>I'm</B>
Canadian,
<BR>and I haven't heard <B>anything</B> about it! Time went by, and no
one on
<BR>the list responded, and there was nothing in the news about it. My
<BR>opinion was confirmed.

<P>Much to my surprise, a recent issue of the American journal "Science"
<BR>had a brief article on the discovery. Unfortunately, idiot girl galloped
out the
<BR>door ("It's Friday, blessed Friday, yippee!) without her backpack containing
<BR>the article.

<P>From memory - the body was discovered August 14th in a glacier in
<BR>northern BC by hikers, and is now in storage in the Yukon until native
<BR>groups and researchers reach an agreement on how to research it. The
<BR>article suggested it was expected that an amicable agreement could
be
<BR>reached, unlike the case of Kennewick (Kessewick?) man, a controversial
<BR>U.S.find.

<P>The body was reported as wearing a finely woven hat and a cloak of small
<BR>pelts similar to squirrel or groundhog. A spear thrower was also found.
<BR>The body could be as old as 10,000 years old or as recent as the early
<BR>European occupation.

<P>"Science" is published by the American Association for the Advancement
of
<BR>Science, relying on my unreliable memory, and they have a web page
with
<BR>access to a few, but not all, of their articles.

<P>Off-topic - I'm rather annoyed that this has received so little coverage
in the
<BR>Canadian media. Sometimes this self-effacing Canadian attitude goes
a little
<BR>too far, (speaking as an ardent Canadian nationalist) especially when
it involves
<BR>such an interesting find.

<P>Recently there was a book published on Canadian social attitudes called
<BR>"Sex in the Snow". A catchy title, and I can't help but wonder if this
iceman
<BR>didn't meet his end....

<P>And my apologies to the original poster, who ever you are! I will never
doubt you
<BR>again.

<P>Sheridan Alder</HTML>

--------------E4A2D44238D2CADA06EE8D71--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 22:48:30 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:05:13 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
In-Reply-To: <E11PbNU-0000aM-00@mongoose.slip.net>
References: <37D9E4D3.6240@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

Carol,
	I bought one from the lady that publishes Dressmaker Magazine.  There are
2 or 3 styles.  I think they were $35.  Her husband makes them, so they are
advertised in the magazine.  maybe someone will have a name and number for
you.


At 05:49 PM 9/10/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>At 10:12 PM 09/10/1999,  dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote: The slashes were
>often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or gum tragacanth. Also
>as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a die you hit with a hammer)
>could be used hot this often sealed the edge of the fabric. I've
>experimented with both of these and they work
>           Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
>these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
>arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>

Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 22:49:52 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:53:09 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:

> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
> At 10:12 PM 09/10/1999,  dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote: The slashes were
> often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or gum tragacanth. Also
> as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a die you hit with a hammer)
> could be used hot this often sealed the edge of the fabric. I've
> experimented with both of these and they work

Singer used to make a pinking attachment for their standard low shank
machines.  They come up on eBay every now and then.  For cloth this might be
the ticket for long pinked slashes or seams - you basically run the fabric thru
like you're sewing it but it pinks it instead.

>           Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
> these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
> arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol
>

I'm sure for leather workers they can probably get a die made for pinking.

Gum arabic is easily available from art supply stores.  It's used for binding
pigments in paints, particularly watercolors, gouache, or tempera.  Winsor
Newton makes a liquid form of it (premixed, ready to go) that Aaron Bros or
Michaels would carry in most of their stores.  If you want to mix it yourself
you can buy it in powdered form from Pen and Ink Books or Sinopia.  Gum
tragacanth can probably be had from Sinopia or other pigment dealers online
(don't have the websites handy but can get them).

Carolyn (who also does illumination and just got some powdered gum arabic from
Pen and Ink, but also has the liquid around).

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 22:52:19 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Button holes, Danish and Irish buttons
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:13:23 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

 I got goosebumps reading Ms. Winkler's earlier post this
evening about the buttons all the way up the outside of a
medieval Danish sleeve.  Mairead Dunlevy has a photograph in
her wonderful book *Dress in Ireland* of a man's (Irish)
coat of similar or only slightly later period with what
sounds like the same detail.  She emphasized that the
buttons were not functional, but decorative.

I don't know where Mr. Hitchcock got "100 years" from, but I
have read that buttons started as a decorative thing, and
only later became functional. My memory is a little fuzzy on
this point, but I would hazard that Arnold, Tarrant, and
Dunlevy have all written that buttons preceded buttonholes.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Friday, September 10, 1999 10:16 AM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: H-COST: Button holes
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier"
<penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> I was watching Alfred Hitchcock presents the other night.
> Mr. Hitchcock
> stated that buttons were invented 100 years prior to
> buttonholes.  Is this
> true???
>
> Later... Penny
> http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 22:55:20 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>,
        "Wear digest" <wearable-digest@listserv.embroideryclubs.com>,
        "WearableArt" <Wearableart@onelist.com>,
        "h-needlework" <H-Needlework@Ansteorra.org>,
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Subject: H-COST: An event Monday
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:03:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I just received this late message, so I hope you all can view this:

September 15, 1999 at 3:30pm EST The Ohio State University's Historic
Costume and Textiles Collection in the College of Human Ecology will
broadcast the premiere of "Scaasi: The Joy of Dressing Up," a video
presentation of the Collection's exhibition from October 8, 1998 through
February 27, 1999.

We invite you to participate in this interactive video streaming event and
contribute your thoughts, questions, and comments. Gayle Strege, Curator of
the Historic Costume and Textiles Collection will be in the site's chat room
to answer any questions you might have about the exhibition.

For more information, visit our website at
http://video.hec.ohio-state.edu/index.html. It is highly recommended that
you check out the website prior to the broadcast, as you may need to
download software. For technical assistance contact Eva Bradshaw at
bradshaw.3@osu.edu.

Gayle Strege
Curator, Historic Costume & Textiles Collection

175 Campbell Hall
1787 Neil Avenue
Columbus, OH 43210-1295
(614) 292-3090

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 22:58:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:01:03 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



kris .. wrote:

> -I'm making version "B" with version "A"'s sleeves out of a linen/cotton
> blend in a color that matches a Color Box stamp pad I've got :] "Colonial
> Blue". I don't have quite enough, so I'm thinking of lengthening the hem
> with some navy I have in the same fabric. Is this a period thing to do for
> It. Ren? My SCA period is 1475-1525 German, so I don't know :]

Better would be to make the sleeves or bodice out of a different color than
lengthening the hem.  Sleeves were often contrasting fabrics - bodices also, but
seen less often than different colored sleeves.  If you can squeeze a bodice AND
skirt out of the fabric you have, go for it.  If there's only enough for the
skirt, I think I'd use Dress A or C's bodice which has an insert that can be a
different color.

> Also, I was
> wondering if doing the trims & sleeves & my bits of underskirt that show in
> a color called "Tea Rose", kind of a peachy pink, and palest yellow would be
> ok. I realize that colors were used in excess, and they *do* look good
> together.. :D

Colonial blue (whatever that is), peachy pink and pale yellow sounds very
Victorian to me.  Italian used colors "in excess" as you say and they liked them
bright.  Colonial blue would work real well for Italian Ren with *red* sleeves
or *bright* yellow.  I've seen several paintings of women wearing red dresses
with blue sleeves so no reason you couldn't do it in reverse (I'm sure I've seen
that too).

> I am also going to fit the bodice first, and change it by making the front
> underbust seam straight across, and using gathers instead of the darts.. Is
> there a way to avoid darts and gathers altogether?

Make a corset to go under it.  That'll take care of those darts and gathers.  I
wear Italian Ren all the time (usually the long waisted kind, not the high
waisted like in teh Simplicity pattern) - my pattern is 2 pieces, front and back
joined at the seams.  And I'm a 38 DD.  But I always wear a corset.

> oh, and pleating the skirt onto the bodice would be more accurate than the
> gathers, right?

damn right.   Cartridge pleating it would be even better.

Carolyn (aka Tetchubah)

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
References: <37D73BA0.6C6C6B53@bc.sympatico.ca> <199909101510.JAA13174@email.boisestate.edu> <37D940B1.781CC2B5@home.com> <37D9432F.20BFC6C3@serv.net> <37D949D0.E5F853C8@home.com>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kat & Kent wrote:

> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
> I've got the main body almost done (center front is open still).  I need
> to put in the lining and put on the sleeves although at this point I'm
> probably going to make them tie-ons.  It's out of a midnight to navy
> blue light to medium weight leather with the suede side out.  Because
> it's a floor length I had to use three different sides to cut it out.
> It's seven panels (the back was cut on the fold) and will lace up the
> front to a square neckline.  If I'm wearing it anywhere that isn't air
> conditioned or cold I plan on wearing a farthingale under it to hold the
> skirt away from my body.

Maybe it's just me but a *farthingale*under*a*cotehardie*?? Are you mad,
woman?  I don't mean to sound rude but these 2 garments are at least a
hundred years apart.  No flame intended but I think you really should stick
to wearing it at SF cons, because undoubtedly someone at Ren Faire or SCA
would make rude comments.  Stick to lining it with something comfortable and
wear a chemise under it - or develop a very thick skin (pun intended).

Carolyn/Tetchubah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 23:04:12 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: RE: Bag Sleeves on Leines
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:25:28 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Good point, Margo.  I don't really know what the poster
meant by a "bagged sleeve."  The bag sleeve is a pretty
widely used historical term, where the sleeve is cartridge
pleated or gathered into the armscye and then hangs long,
gathered tight together at the "wrist."  The forearm extends
out a bound and emboridered slot in the front of the sleeve,
while the dangling remainder may be used like a pocket.
Pretty widely found in fashionable velvet, wool, linen
garments, women's, but especially mens, in Western Europe
1400 (approx) to 1600 (approx).

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Margo Anderson
> Sent: Friday, September 10, 1999 10:54 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Bag Sleeves on Leines
>
>
>
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>
> I believe that there is often some confusion as to what is
> meant by "bag
> sleeves"  To some people, it means a very wide sleeve with
> the end sewn up
> most of the way, forming a bag.  But...to some people,
especially when
> discussing leines, a "bag sleeve" may mean a sleeve that
has
> gathers along
> the top of the arm, so that when worn, it resembles a
> drawstring bag. this
> is the meaning I was thinking of when on several
occasions, I
> have stated
> that leines did not have bag sleeves.
>
> Margo
>
>
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 23:15:50 1999
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From: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: H-COST: Boring clothes?
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-Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>

Here's a question for you all:  A few weeks back when my boyfriend
accompanied me to my favorite clothing store, Brooks Brothers, he
remarked that he found it strange that someone as interested in the
history of fashion as I am would always wear rather boring clothes.
Thinking about it, he's right, I do tend to choose very basic clothes that
I can wear for years-- but this is because I'd rather buy something of
better quality that will last a while than some cheap fashionable thing
that is poorly made and will wear out in short order.  I suppose the
fashionable clothes that would interest me are just plain too expensive
(in time or money).  I did see a lovely Chanel jacket the other day and
it wasn't boring at all.  Of course, it was also nearly $2000.

So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

--Katharine Whisler


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 23:24:32 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:37:34 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

I have used basket weaving reed, and I can only hope that you have better 
luck than I did with the stays. The 18th century stays I made were from small 
rounds, but after a while the reed got really dried out, and started 
cracking, especially around the waist line. I had the stays fully boned, they 
were quite stiff, and worked well for a while, then after a winter sitting in 
my camp chest, even though I wet them down to keep them pliant, they still 
began to crack. And with the amount of work that goes into making stays, you 
don't want to have to redo them every year. Just my experience, hope that 
yours work better.

Susan K. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 10 23:28:11 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Confederate Uniform Braid
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:48:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



Meribeth,
     If there is a specific arrangement for it to be sewed on, I wouldn't
know.  I remember a post about the office held and I am not sure if it being
applied in a certain way is necessary...but, wouldn't work to hand tack it?
Pin it where you want it and hand sew it.
    I have a friend that does Civil War events. Her husband has THE cannon,
or so he thinks!  If there is something more to the applying the braid,  let
me know and I will ask her.
   Michelle

>-Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
>
>Everyone...thanks to a wonderful list member I now know what kind of
>braid..but I still have no idea what the best attachment method for it
>is.  Help!
>
>MeriBeth


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:50:03 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>




>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>.. a whole
>>reel of 1/2" reed costs about 7 bucks & makes dozens of corsets, with 30
to
>>40 bones apiece.  Just cut them to length, round off the ends, rub them
with
>>wax, and insert.
>
>Do you have a mail order source for reed?
>
>Margo
>
   I am also, very, interested.
   Michelle

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:47:11 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 09:01 PM 10/09/99 -0700, you wrote:
>-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>Better would be to make the sleeves or bodice out of a different color than
>lengthening the hem.  Sleeves were often contrasting fabrics - bodices
also, but
>seen less often than different colored sleeves.  If you can squeeze a
bodice AND
>skirt out of the fabric you have, go for it.  If there's only enough for the
>skirt, I think I'd use Dress A or C's bodice which has an insert that can
be a
>different color.
<snip>
>bright.  Colonial blue would work real well for Italian Ren with *red*
sleeves
>or *bright* yellow.  I've seen several paintings of women wearing red dresses
>with blue sleeves so no reason you couldn't do it in reverse (I'm sure
I've seen
>that too).

oh! oh! I have LOTS of navy.. AND cranberry.. in the same fabric..
*plotting a new scheme* Maybe I'll do THAT for my It.Ren, and use the light
one for.. something else down the road..

>Make a corset to go under it.  That'll take care of those darts and
gathers.  I
>wear Italian Ren all the time (usually the long waisted kind, not the high
>waisted like in teh Simplicity pattern) - my pattern is 2 pieces, front
and back
>joined at the seams.  And I'm a 38 DD.  But I always wear a corset.

So basically just make a boned, separate version of the bodice to wear
underneath?
But a little bit longer to avoid those unsightly bulges?

>damn right.   Cartridge pleating it would be even better.

I know this would be best, but my fabric is kind of thin, and even if I
interline it, I'm not sure if it would work. I'll just have to try it and
see. oh.. and I would stitch the cartridge pleated skirt onto a separate
waistband, right? Just to take pressure off the bodice? I could tie them
together with little dangly bits..

Thanks so much!
This has given me *fabullous* ideas :]

Kris

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:55:27 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Linda,
  I would test the leather first.  The stitch length may be so close that it
cuts your leather.  When I sew leather, I always lengthen the stitch,
especially if the leather is as supple as you say.
   Is your machine able to sew through it?  Some can't handle it.
   Michelle

>Linda Yordy wrote:
>> Am looking for advice from those of you who know about sewing
>> with leather.
>> I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a
>> leather sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and
>> should go through the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer
>> stitches than I would with woven fabric.
>
>I would *definately* get leather needles!  But I use the same stitch
>length I do on woven fabrics (2 on my machine).
>

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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:00:02 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
References: <37D73BA0.6C6C6B53@bc.sympatico.ca> <199909101510.JAA13174@email.boisestate.edu> <37D940B1.781CC2B5@home.com> <37D9432F.20BFC6C3@serv.net> <37D949D0.E5F853C8@home.com> <37D9D506.79213505@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Carolyn Richardson wrote:
> 
> 
> Maybe it's just me but a *farthingale*under*a*cotehardie*?? Are you
> mad, woman?  I don't mean to sound rude but these 2 garments are at
> least a hundred years apart.  No flame intended but I think you really
> should stick to wearing it at SF cons, because undoubtedly someone at
> Ren Faire or SCA would make rude comments.  Stick to lining it with
> something comfortable and wear a chemise under it - or develop a very
> thick skin (pun intended).

Perhaps I was too sick when I wrote the post...I thought I had *already*
stated that this garment was *intended* for SF cons and NOT for Faire or
SCA.  I also stated that I wear a chemise under all my cotehardies.  At
SCA (which I don't do anymore) I'd be more likely to be found in 12th C
garb anyway and our Faire is set at Henry VIII's court so I'm unlikely
to be wearing a cotehardie *there*.  I'm making it because of the
challange...well, and I wanted to see what it would look like and
someone gave me the leather to try it and see how it would come out (for
nefarious purposes...I think he wants to make ball gowns for women with
far more money than I and given his talent with design and leather they
should be stunning) and I go to Chattacon every January, which while
it's not as bad as some (being in TN) isn't exactly *warm*.

Kat
hoping to have corrected any misconceptions about addressing a question
put by another poster
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 22:15:34 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Tandy Leather. 

>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>Pinking Tools?
>
>Where?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Drea


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dress forms
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 22:18:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>-Poster: rima@anet.net
>OK, so who knows of a terrific dress form that 's out there, that's easily
>adjustable between two women's sizes - my friend and I wanna share, but
>she's 4 inches taller and thinner!
>Rima


   I think it really depends on how much of a size difference there is
between you. I think most of them are made to cover a small range of sizes.
Height doesn't matter so much.
  I was wondering thought,  How are you go to do this without a fight?  I
don't think I could share. ;) I would want it ALL the time!
   Michelle

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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

The Rogue wrote:
> 
<snip>
> I have an amazing way with sewing machines - have broken 4 in the last
> year.
> Even on of the indestructible black Singer straight sew models.  Now I
> handsew everything, and found that I really like handsewing much more
> than working with a machine.  This works well with the 20th century
> Norse costuming I've been doing, but the thought of doing later period
> clothing worries me.  Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
> doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.  Especially about handsewing in
> an authentic manner (if I'm stuck doing it, why not have a little fun
> with it!!) or materials or methods to avoid.

Well, since I didn't even *have* a sewing machine for the first 6 years
I was sewing I think I can answer at least part of this! <grin>  I've
sewn everything from 70's peasant blouses to prairie bonnets to full
length gowns by hand with no problems (except for thread knotting up on
me!).  I always use quilting or button thread for handsewing.  I run out
about a yard and a half, thread it through the needle, double it and
knot it and if the thread gives me too much trouble I *wax* it (amazing
what that can do!).  I either fold my seam over and under (so the cut
edge is covered and sew down the middle of that or I sew a shirt tail
hem all the way around and then sew the appropriate seams together.  I
tend to take four - five stitches at a time and I use the thinnest
needles I can find.  I never, ever use a thimble (which shocked the heck
out of my grandmothers) but that's because I've yet to find one that
feels comfortable at *all* (conventional, ring, leather, quilters etc). 
I often do garments completely by hand if time allows (although for
theatrical sewing I tend to go with the machine for times sake and if
I'm pressed on my own garments will sew the interior seams by machine
and just do the finishing by hand).  If you are sewing through a number
of thickness' of fabric (ex a corset) you may find it easier to use a
good thimble and bring the needle through and then back one stitch at a
time.  Of course, the closer and more even the stitches the better.  I
have used a leather needle on a garment that had one layer of canvas and
two of cloth because I got tired of bending needles.  The biggest thing
is to match your needle and thread to the garment material.  If you
haven't already, you might look into picking up a set of 'craft
needles'.  They generally contain two curved needles and a glovers
needle, all of which I've found helpful while handsewing.  My best
advice is, if it doesn't work the first time...try switching needle or
thread or both.  Enjoy.  BTW I'm curious...how exactly are you breaking
the machines?

Kat
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 22:30:53 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


->I have an amazing way with sewing machines - have broken 4 in the last
year.

   OH dear! How did that happen?


Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or doublet?  Any advice
>would be helpful.  Especially about handsewing in an authentic manner (if
>I'm stuck doing it, why not have a little fun with it!!) or materials or
>methods to avoid.
>
>Zelda
  Back stitching is a must for the corset.

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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: The iceman cometh? Re: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 22:43:13 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo Sheridan

Re your "iceman."

The San Francisco Chronicle has a article dated Aug 25. It's in their online 
archives. You need to access the site at

www.sfgate.com

and find their Aug 25 edition. Article is titled "Ancient Man Uncovered in 
Canadian Ice/Hunter preserved with clothing, tools" The author is James 
Brooke.

Would dearly love to be involved in the clothing study/reconstruction 
research generated by this find. Working on this kind of stuff has been a 
dream of mine since I was a kid, way too long ago to remember. Wish I knew 
who to talk to about getting started in a career in this. Ah well. 
Anyway,enjoy the article.

Lonna (Enyd)
Oakland, CA


>From: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
>Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 16:57:17 -0500
>
>Greetings everyone:
>
>I'm kinda late for 09-09-99. An introvert, and damn proud of it, I only 
>post
>when I feel I can make a contribution or pick people's brains. Besides,
>it's hard enough to wrestle my husband off ebay, (wasting our hard-earned
>sustenance - it would be cheaper if he drank and ran around with wild
>women), long enough for me read the e-mail. Sigh! I wanted him to become
>more computer literate, but I created a monster! As well, if I was a 
>regular
>participant, members might ask me how the such n' such project was
>going, and I would be forced to admit it has joined the ranks of my other 
>1/4,
>1/2, 3/4, and 99.9% finished projects! Although it appears as if I'm not 
>the
>only
>one who doesn't finish a costume until the morning of an event.
>
>Not long ago someone posted a message regarding news of another
>"iceman" discovered in British Columbia. I'm ashamed to admit that
>I shrugged it off as another internet rumour - after all I'm Canadian,
>and I haven't heard anything about it! Time went by, and no one on
>the list responded, and there was nothing in the news about it. My
>opinion was confirmed.
>
>Much to my surprise, a recent issue of the American journal "Science"
>had a brief article on the discovery. Unfortunately, idiot girl galloped 
>out the
>
>door ("It's Friday, blessed Friday, yippee!) without her backpack 
>containing
>the article.
>
>From memory - the body was discovered August 14th in a glacier in
>northern BC by hikers, and is now in storage in the Yukon until native
>groups and researchers reach an agreement on how to research it. The
>article suggested it was expected that an amicable agreement could be
>reached, unlike the case of Kennewick (Kessewick?) man, a controversial
>U.S.find.
>
>The body was reported as wearing a finely woven hat and a cloak of small
>pelts similar to squirrel or groundhog. A spear thrower was also found.
>The body could be as old as 10,000 years old or as recent as the early
>European occupation.
>
>"Science" is published by the American Association for the Advancement of
>Science, relying on my unreliable memory, and they have a web page with
>access to a few, but not all, of their articles.
>
>Off-topic - I'm rather annoyed that this has received so little coverage in 
>the
>Canadian media. Sometimes this self-effacing Canadian attitude goes a 
>little
>too far, (speaking as an ardent Canadian nationalist) especially when it
>involves
>such an interesting find.
>
>Recently there was a book published on Canadian social attitudes called
>"Sex in the Snow". A catchy title, and I can't help but wonder if this 
>iceman
>didn't meet his end....
>
>And my apologies to the original poster, who ever you are! I will never 
>doubt
>you
>again.
>
>Sheridan Alder

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 00:54:28 1999
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From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Medieval Misc.
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

I've used the MM houppelande pattern.  Can't speak to its authenticity, I
was using it for a fantasy costume.  However, it seemed to go together
easily - everything fit, etc.  I don't remember having to alter extensively
(size 18-20) for width, and I'm 5'11" so I didn't have to shorten anything
(the most common complaint I've heard locally is that they are too long).
I also remember not using the directions, just assembling it the way that
seemed logical.

The biggest problem was that I was using the floor-length sleeves, and they
were lined, and the sheer quantity of fabric became rather daunting by the
time it was all together!

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 00:57:20 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Soft lining for leather "cote"Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 23:10:19 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>


Or you can try lining the "cote" itself in a soft cotton that breathes 
(preferably natural with no sizing or dye added). Then you can add a cotton 
chemise under it. Don't know how period that would be, but I think it would 
take care of some of the sweating/sticking to skin problems. Instead of a 
farthingale to hold it away from your body, how about a soft petticoat? 
(Carolyn, my memory fails me here, were petticoat-like underpinnings worn in 
the 14th century? That's the one thing I've been unable to figure out which 
is rather frustrating since my persona is from the early/mid 14th century.)

Whatever you come up with, Kat, please scan some pictures to the list. I'm 
quivering with anticipation at just how this is going to look. BTW, what 
kind of buttons are you using? Lapis beads/buttons would be a lovely accent.

Lonna (Enyd)

>From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
>Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:05:26 -0700
>
>
>-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>
>
>
>Kat & Kent wrote:
>
> > -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> >
> > I've got the main body almost done (center front is open still).  I need
> > to put in the lining and put on the sleeves although at this point I'm
> > probably going to make them tie-ons.  It's out of a midnight to navy
> > blue light to medium weight leather with the suede side out.  Because
> > it's a floor length I had to use three different sides to cut it out.
> > It's seven panels (the back was cut on the fold) and will lace up the
> > front to a square neckline.  If I'm wearing it anywhere that isn't air
> > conditioned or cold I plan on wearing a farthingale under it to hold the
> > skirt away from my body.
>
>Maybe it's just me but a *farthingale*under*a*cotehardie*?? Are you mad,
>woman?  I don't mean to sound rude but these 2 garments are at least a
>hundred years apart.  No flame intended but I think you really should stick
>to wearing it at SF cons, because undoubtedly someone at Ren Faire or SCA
>would make rude comments.  Stick to lining it with something comfortable 
>and
>wear a chemise under it - or develop a very thick skin (pun intended).
>
>Carolyn/Tetchubah
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 23:54:09 -0500
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


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-----Original Message-----
From:	KATHARINE WHISLER [SMTP:KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu]
Sent:	Friday, September 10, 1999 11:26 PM
To:	h-costume@indra.com
Subject:	H-COST: Boring clothes?


So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
--Katharine Whisler


[Carrie Veenstra]=20

I wear t-shirts and shorts/sweats/jeans (%100 cotton EVERYTHING)  until =
they are plain worn out, I think because I'm always working on something =
and this is the most comfortable/washable option. I don't dress up very =
often anyhow, and even in the realm of historical I like making =
costumes/clothes for others much more than for myself.=20

For Ren, my clothing style really mirrors everyday -- mix-n-match =
peasant wear -- for much the same reasons.

For 'Dress Up'   < for what most people would consider casual or =
business dress up to formal>  I grab either hand-me-downs from my mom's =
closet, or whatever doesn't hurt the pocketbook too much  at Lane =
Bryant's <not much!>.   If I had a  bit of a smaller dress size I might =
get into shopping more, but large-sized fashion at almost every level is =
still very cost prohibitive.

No, I don't own a neon pink spandex crushed velvet minidress...

Carrie  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 01:27:08 1999
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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Dress Forms
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 00:52:46 -0500
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>

I lost track of the original poster, but that dress form on the farthingale's site looked very neat to me.  I've been beating on the mental puzzle of trying to dresses to-be-worn-with-a-corset on a standard type dress form and kept coming up puzzled... looks like with that form, I could fit the corset to the person, lace the corset to the form, and bingo-bango: Friend-who-agreed to be costumed doesn't have to stick around for most of the gory details (or watching over my shoulder, as the case may be).  Being as that I am a Midnight to 4 am kind of worker, this would be VERY desirable.

The price didn't look *too* outrageous for the product, tho I did just buy myself an adjustable dress form (cheapy cheapy) off of ebay to play with ($30 including shipping!!!) I, too, would be interested in general opinion of the "skwishy"  form  you linked to!

to the rest of the list:  is there another more obvious way to do this without the costume-ee present? I've considered the 'wrapped-in-plaster-build-your-own'  form making process, too, but then I'm stuck storing multiple bulky forms, and that method doesn't solve the problem of a stable base on the unit. (Also, it's even harder to convince people to wrap themselves in plaster cloths & laytex than it is to convince them to wear a corset in the first place...)

Carrie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 01:44:12 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 01:58:01 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Soft lining for leather "cote"Re: H-COST: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I've already stated that I wear a chemise with cotehardies (heck, I wear
a chemise with many, many things) but they won't keep the leather *off*
my skin as far as I want if it's *hot* out...not that this is likely to
be an issue...I'm not going to be tromping through any woods in this
one! <grin>  I wish I could afford lapis buttons but I'm more likely to
grommet this so that it has more 'ease' or use 'buttonholes'.  IOW it
will lace not button.  If I manage to get a pic of it once it's done and
actually get it developed, I'll scan it and put it up somewhere.  As for
underpinnings...a chemise or underdress as I recall, don't remember
coming across anything else but it's not my primary period.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 02:47:40 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 01:00:19 -0700
From: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
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-Poster: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>

I heard about this on KTLA (a Los Angeles TV Station).  I heard it
mentioned on a CBC radio broadcast once in the early morning.  There
was also a small snippet in the National Post.  This all happened on
one day, then nothing.  Seems wars, slaughter, political machinations
and such sell more ads and papers than something of historical
importance.

Such are our days.

Morgan Crawford of Shrewsbury
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 03:23:55 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 01:26:46 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
References: <19990910225205.66050.qmail@hotmail.com> <3.0.5.32.19990910214711.007a3100@antir.com>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kris wrote:

> oh! oh! I have LOTS of navy.. AND cranberry.. in the same fabric..
> *plotting a new scheme* Maybe I'll do THAT for my It.Ren, and use the light
> one for.. something else down the road..

Either would be good.  Green too (everyone break into a round of "Greensleeves"
;-) )

> So basically just make a boned, separate version of the bodice to wear
> underneath?
> But a little bit longer to avoid those unsightly bulges?

Yep.  My corset's a slightly different shape than the bodice and it laces in back
(I usually use side openings on my Italians - easier to get into).

> I know this would be best, but my fabric is kind of thin, and even if I
> interline it, I'm not sure if it would work. I'll just have to try it and
> see. oh.. and I would stitch the cartridge pleated skirt onto a separate
> waistband, right? Just to take pressure off the bodice? I could tie them
> together with little dangly bits..

I've cartridge pleated just about every weight of fabric except *really*
lightweight stuff.  I sewed some twill tape to the top of it to give it more body
for cartridge pleating.  And I frequently will pleat straight to the bodice rather
than a separate waist band.  Depends on the weight.

Carolyn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 03:49:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 02:00:52 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
In-Reply-To: <37DA0C13.93437093@bc.sympatico.ca>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

     There may eventually be more.  Remember archaologists pour over each
silly millimeter in excruciating detail, and then do it again another
several times just to be certain they have not missed, nor misinterpreted
anything--and in this case, they also mustneeds consult the tribe whose
elder they have deemed this 'iceman' to be in every detail and obtain
permissions from the tribe for doing it all.  It takes time.  I was amazed
to note that people are still wearing hats very similar to his now--or at
least I know someone who does. Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 03:54:28 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 02:06:22 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 01:26 AM 09/11/1999, Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>wrote:
>Kris wrote: oh! oh! I have LOTS of navy.. AND cranberry.. in the same
fabric..
>> *plotting a new scheme* Maybe I'll do THAT for my It.Ren, and use the light
>> one for.. something else down the road..
>           Either would be good.  Green too (everyone break into a round
of "Greensleeves" ;-) 
      But--each one takes a different verse, please, there are so many from
which to choose.  I'm getting excited about doing my first Italian Ren
outfit, too, and will attempt more authenticity than I ever have before.  I
decided on side lacings, too, since, alas, I have no 'tiring maid, nor
beloved who might aid me to lace otherwise.  -- Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 04:03:58 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 02:17:15 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

I go as unique as I can get. Now that's not to say wild or crazy. I go for items that you won't see on anyone else...probably ever. I watch alot of style TV so I pick up on new looks and go for those, only problem is I' live in backwards-ass tallahassee FL (more like south georgia I think) they don't get things around here until about a year and 1/2 after it's gone back out of style. I remember about 4 or 5 years ago I went to every store in both malls and several independant stores loking for a plain black jacket with a leopard print collar COULD not find one. Finally I ordered one from a catalog, needless to say I got alot of weird looks at first from the classmates. About a year and 1/2 later everyone had one, they were all the rage by the time I'd tired of mine. It's not that I fancy myself a trend setter, lol it's just they are REALLY slow to catch on to EVERYTHING down here.

Anyway back to the answer to your question. I don't dress plain. I find that noone dresses up for anything anymore (my fiance and I went to a show at the FSU opera last christmas and several of the "ladies" were wearing sneakers and jogging pants...can you imagine?)
I try to put a little bit of the excitement back into dressing that everyone seems to have lost. When I shop for a suit coat I don't go for the plain and dull, I"ll opt for heavy embroidery. I love heels with lots of fine detail work etc. Alot of times I can't find what I want so I have to buythe basic and take it home and "doll it up" myself. Too much of life has been stripped to the basic, bare necessities I think. Ladies no longer lunch, dinner parties are no longer and EVENT and people stick to that, buy 12 wardrobe pieces that all match each other and that's it. 

well maybe it's just me, lol. I've always been discribed as "unique" so if my opinion offends anyone I'm sorry. 


---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 


>So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
>
>--Katharine Whisler
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 02:30:30 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>


I found the exact address for the shoes I spoke of in my earlier post. They appeared in the picture to be pinkish red... I appologize because the picture's captions says red; so I suppose they are just red. They are how ever made by Peter Fox like I thought and lo and behold they are on sale as well. The exact address is http://www.peterfox.com/796901R.html . Hope this helps a little. Also they don't come in white they come in Ivory...I was all off on the color, but you must forgive me it had been a month or two in actuality since I've been there. Time flys when you're on the net. lol

---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 04:55:53 1999
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From: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: boring clothes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 05:02:04 -0500
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-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>

Katherine:  Since I missed de-lurking day all together (long work hours)
and since your question IS one I can answer, here I am.
     One of several non-traditional classes that I teach is English As A
Second Language, which means that I teach foreign-born students reading,
writing, and speaking of English.  One of the advantages of the class is
that the students come from nine countries.  An international splash of
fashion styles, colors, and fabrics show up daily in class.  Over the past
couple of years, I've found myself adapting to (or adopting) various
garments from each of my students' cultural settings, most of which have
remained fairly steady over long periods of time.  My absolute favorite
this year is Mandarian sheaths.  (I'm medium tall, thin, and proportionally
top heavy, so the style looks good.  Unfortunately, I'm not perpetually
young.)  A side advantage is that my students have taken to the game of
"dressing Meg properly" in their native styles.  They are more comfortable
talking about a subject they're familiar with, even though they struggle to
find comparable English words.  I'm learning a goodly amount about fabrics
and construction (modern) techniques along the way and we sometimes nearly
burst laughing at their attempts to "reform" me.  (Their attempts to
explain politely in English that my clumsiness in trying to sink down
gracefully in an obi makes for many cluckings of tongues.)   I enjoy the
game too and try to play by their rules whenever possible, although so far
I've refused to change my reddish-blonde hair to black.
     My biggest pet peeve is unmatched plaids!  Current manufacturers seem
to be visually impaired concerning plaids.  If the plaid in a garment is
unmatched, it's cheap, IMHO, regardless of what the price tag reads!
Meg
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 07:23:31 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 08:29:42 -0400
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Lola Lee <lola@his.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Boring clothes?
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-Poster: Lola Lee <lola@his.com>

At 10:45 PM -0600 9/10/99, owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com wrote:
>So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?


I tend to wear "boring", conservative clothes.  Why?  Because I can't 
stand the fashion that is forced on us year after year, such as retro 
60s or whatever.  I want to have good quality clothes that will last 
for years, especially as I'm petite and have a hard time finding 
clothes that fit me (why do they never keep size Small in stock???). 
If I had my way, there would be plenty of 1900s-1920s style and not 
the 90's version of these style in stock.    Shoes, as well.   I'm 
sorry, but those squarish shoes with huge, boxy heels just don't 
appeal to me - I have small, high-arched feet and these would just 
look ridiculous on me.  I find the shoes from the 1900s-1920s very 
stylish.

As it is, I go for clothes that you'd find in LL Beans, and maybe a 
little Laura Ashley.   Also, natural fiber as much as possible. 
Meaning, no pantyhose for me (I have dry skin, and in winter I have 
to slap on lotion on my legs every other hour or so).



Lola - mailto:lola@his.com
Gospodi Pomilui | Lord Have Mercy | Get a Mac and a Palm!
http://www.his.com/~lola/ljl.html | ICQ: 14914550
I'm in Bowie, MD, USA, halfway between DC and Annapolis.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 08:03:54 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 08:09:14 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dress Forms
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

For those of you who are doing the 'Duct-tape Double' type of form, when
you fill it with foam (the spray in, expandable type) just stick a decent
sized dowel/closet pole in the center and then use a Christmas tree stand
to hold it when you need to use it. My friend Brenda and I made her a
'Double' which we did this with and it works well. The good thing about
the foam filled form is that it's pretty light weight and doesn't pull
itself over. 

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 09:13:17 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/10/99 11:24:44 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
mandrake@mypad.com writes:

<< Back stitching is a must for the corset. >>
If you look inside most hand sewn period clothing, you will find either that 
the entire garment has been made with a small, regular backstitch, or with a 
running backstitch. (3 or 4 running stitches followed by a backstitch).  The 
seam allowances are also most often overcast to prevent fraying.  Hope this 
helps.  Cheryl Odom
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 09:18:37 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 02:10:35 +0200
From: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>
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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------91497BAE78F37E54487CFB70
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> >To Jill of ECWS: I'm thrilled to hear that there *is* another 17th century
> >enthusiast on the list. It's always seemed as though I was the only one!
> >Kate Bunting
> >King's Lifeguard of Foote/ Captaine Generalls Musick, Sealed Knot
> --------
> Jill and Kate,
> I do 17th c. (Cavalier Association, Columbus Ohio, US). We do ECW in the US
> and American colonial 17th century.  This summer, went to the muster at
> Salem Village 1630. If I ever get to the UK again (last trip was 1984),
> I'd love to attend some ECW and other events!
>
> Marsha Hamilton
>
And here are even more ;-) !I belong to an English-/German cooperative
group that does French and English baroque in the 17th century.
We want to focus on civilian events but there is also a regiment being
built up, the
"Kirke`s Lambs".
We`re just starting out, if you`d like to know more about the group,
visit
http://www.kipar.org, there are some pics and information about 17th
century dress up as well.

Many greetings,
Diana


--------------91497BAE78F37E54487CFB70
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<HTML>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>>To Jill of ECWS: I'm thrilled to hear that there *is* another 17th century
>enthusiast on the list. It's always seemed as though I was the only one!
>Kate Bunting
>King's Lifeguard of Foote/ Captaine Generalls Musick, Sealed Knot
--------
Jill and Kate,&nbsp;&nbsp;
I do 17th c. (Cavalier Association, Columbus Ohio, US). We do ECW in the US
and American colonial 17th century.&nbsp; This summer, went to the muster at
Salem Village 1630. If I ever get to the UK again (last trip was 1984),
I'd love to attend some ECW and other events!

Marsha Hamilton</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
And here are even more ;-) !I belong to an English-/German cooperative
group that does French and English baroque in the 17th century.
<BR>We want to focus on civilian events but there is also a regiment being
built up, the
<BR>"Kirke`s Lambs".
<BR>We`re just starting out, if you`d like to know more about the group,
visit
<BR><A HREF="http://www.kipar.org">http://www.kipar.org</A>, there are some pics and information about 17th
century dress up as well.

<P>Many greetings,
<BR>Diana
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------91497BAE78F37E54487CFB70--


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 10:38:49 1999
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-Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net

aleed wrote:
> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> Pinking Tools?
> 
> Where?
I got my otherhalf who's a metal worker to make me one as an experiment
as I had never been able to find them. We also tried to silk stamp with
a similar tool without the cutting edge which worked perfectly  but the
tool has to be heated
> 
> I'd love to find some of these.
 So would I anyone any clues? 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drea
> 
> On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote:
> 
> >
> > -Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net
> >
> > The slashes were often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or
> > gum tragacanth. Also as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a
> > die you hit with a hammer) could be used hot this often sealed the edge
> > of the fabric. I've experimented with both of these and they work
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 10:38:50 1999
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-Poster: dawn.wood1@virgin.net

Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> 
> At 10:12 PM 09/10/1999,  dawn.wood1@virgin.net wrote: The slashes were
> often 'glued' along the edges by using gum arabic or gum tragacanth. Also
> as the pinking tools(they weren't scissors but a die you hit with a hammer)
> could be used hot this often sealed the edge of the fabric. I've
> experimented with both of these and they work
>            Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
See earlier reply sent
> these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
> arabic/gum tragacanth? 
you can buy it at art shops/ herbalists etc they are both resins which
you heat to break down.  

 Carol
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 10:53:38 1999
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	 Sat, 11 Sep 1999 09:04:38 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: The iceman cometh? Re: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 11:37:26 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Here's the link for the BC ice man article
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/ar
chive/1999/08/25/MN77274.DTL.

The comparable find the article discusses is the ice man now
in the museum at Balzo, Italy, just north of Venice and just
south of the Italian Alps.  There was  a great Public
Broadcasting Station documentary  on the Balzo ice man.
What hit me about it was how many different people in
different disciplines worked on the guy. There were your
classic archeologists, of course, but now forensic
pathologists, which would be an MD degree, a huge array of
biolologists--both botony and wildlife types, textiles
experts, metallurgists (he was carrying a soft copper
knife), insect-ologists (sorry, can't remember the exact
word), refrigeration experts, chemists, carbon-dating types
and many more.  Except for the forensic pathologist, they
were all Masters and PhD types in their fields. The experts
were able to determine the time of year he died to a single
week or two by identifying the life cycle of insects and
seeds caught in his clothing, as well as the seasonal
availability of his stomach contents.  He was perhaps late
40's in age, old for the time, and his state of health was
precarious in several ways, including deformed bones.  He
carried his own medicines in a pouch at his belt for the
ailments which troubled him. His area of origin was traced
to Balzo by several means, including the presence of a toxic
gaseaous byproduct of copper smelting on his clothes or in
his body.

It was a huge international team which worked on him, not a
single individual.  Except for the MD, almost all large
universities offer degrees in the other fields.  If in total
doubt, look for a degree program in your nearest city which
offers a full archeology program, preferably extending to
the Masters and PhD level, which will mean they are active
researchers with international contacts.  Opportunities for
research like this are made through academic community
contacts. The work on the BC iceman will take a number of
years if it isn't early disproven that the find is very old.
While the find is extraordinary, comparable extraordinary
finds are being unearthed around the world, given those in
the field plenty to do.  Without the degree, you can still
research and write and explore your interest as an
avocation.

Hope H. Dunlap


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of L.L. Johnson
> Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 1:43 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: The iceman cometh? Re: H-COST: Canadian iceman
redux
>
>
>
> -Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
>
> Hullo Sheridan
>
> Re your "iceman."
>
> The San Francisco Chronicle has a article dated Aug 25.
It's
> in their online
> archives. You need to access the site at
>
> www.sfgate.com
>
> and find their Aug 25 edition. Article is titled "Ancient
Man
> Uncovered in
> Canadian Ice/Hunter preserved with clothing, tools" The
> author is James
> Brooke.
>
> Would dearly love to be involved in the clothing
study/reconstruction
> research generated by this find. Working on this kind of
> stuff has been a
> dream of mine since I was a kid, way too long ago to
> remember. Wish I knew
> who to talk to about getting started in a career in this.
Ah well.
> Anyway,enjoy the article.
>
> Lonna (Enyd)
> Oakland, CA
>
>
> >From: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
> >Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> >To: h-costume@indra.com
> >Subject: H-COST: Canadian iceman redux
> >Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 16:57:17 -0500
> >
> >Greetings everyone:
> >
> >I'm kinda late for 09-09-99. An introvert, and damn proud
of
> it, I only
> >post
> >when I feel I can make a contribution or pick people's
> brains. Besides,
> >it's hard enough to wrestle my husband off ebay, (wasting
> our hard-earned
> >sustenance - it would be cheaper if he drank and ran
around with wild
> >women), long enough for me read the e-mail. Sigh! I
wanted
> him to become
> >more computer literate, but I created a monster! As well,
if I was a
> >regular
> >participant, members might ask me how the such n' such
project was
> >going, and I would be forced to admit it has joined the
> ranks of my other
> >1/4,
> >1/2, 3/4, and 99.9% finished projects! Although it
appears
> as if I'm not
> >the
> >only
> >one who doesn't finish a costume until the morning of an
event.
> >
> >Not long ago someone posted a message regarding news of
another
> >"iceman" discovered in British Columbia. I'm ashamed to
admit that
> >I shrugged it off as another internet rumour - after all
I'm
> Canadian,
> >and I haven't heard anything about it! Time went by, and
no one on
> >the list responded, and there was nothing in the news
about it. My
> >opinion was confirmed.
> >
> >Much to my surprise, a recent issue of the American
journal "Science"
> >had a brief article on the discovery. Unfortunately,
idiot
> girl galloped
> >out the
> >
> >door ("It's Friday, blessed Friday, yippee!) without her
backpack
> >containing
> >the article.
> >
> >From memory - the body was discovered August 14th in a
glacier in
> >northern BC by hikers, and is now in storage in the Yukon
> until native
> >groups and researchers reach an agreement on how to
research it. The
> >article suggested it was expected that an amicable
agreement could be
> >reached, unlike the case of Kennewick (Kessewick?) man, a
> controversial
> >U.S.find.
> >
> >The body was reported as wearing a finely woven hat and a
> cloak of small
> >pelts similar to squirrel or groundhog. A spear thrower
was
> also found.
> >The body could be as old as 10,000 years old or as recent
as
> the early
> >European occupation.
> >
> >"Science" is published by the American Association for
the
> Advancement of
> >Science, relying on my unreliable memory, and they have a
> web page with
> >access to a few, but not all, of their articles.
> >
> >Off-topic - I'm rather annoyed that this has received so
> little coverage in
> >the
> >Canadian media. Sometimes this self-effacing Canadian
> attitude goes a
> >little
> >too far, (speaking as an ardent Canadian nationalist)
> especially when it
> >involves
> >such an interesting find.
> >
> >Recently there was a book published on Canadian social
> attitudes called
> >"Sex in the Snow". A catchy title, and I can't help but
> wonder if this
> >iceman
> >didn't meet his end....
> >
> >And my apologies to the original poster, who ever you
are! I
> will never
> >doubt
> >you
> >again.
> >
> >Sheridan Alder
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
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majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 10:53:57 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost:
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 09:08:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Ginnaphure,

THANK YOU!! I can't believe it, I was looking on the net last night at every
bridal shoe shop I could find and I saw the Peter Fox one, but for some
reason I didn't click on it! (am I stupid or what?) It is EXACTLY what I
want AND it's on sale!!

Now I just have to justify $195 for a pair of shoes to my husband, who will
probably never let me buy them anyway!

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 11:21:57 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 11:43:57 -0500
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>



Talk about boring .... I have to wear an uniform with badge and smoky bear hat!
When I'm on the ranch it is cotton and comfort.  Personal business wear is
bright and flowing, always dresses, with lots of jewelry.  I have very long and
curly hair.   I've followed all threads on long heavy hair.  I do turn of the
century  programs so the hair is braided and up.  Has anyone heard the old
"proper" way to wear hair when coming of age?  Is it the age of 16 when a girl
can wear her hair up or age 14?
Ninya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 11:29:01 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I confess!  In my everyday life, I wear shorts and T-shirts , denim dresses,
sweats, and jeans, depending on the season.  I figure I'm doing well if I
manage to come up with clothes that aren't bleach spotted or torn.  This is
largely due to poverty, living in the middle of nowhere and having young,
clothing destructive children, but I'm trying to get over it.  Now that I'm
teaching costume and trying to drum up business, it's embarrassing to be
standing at the fabric store representing myself as an authority when I'm
dressed in rags.

When I actually make an effort to get dressed up a bit, I tend to
comfortable pants or skirts and loose tops, often in black or neutral
colors, and accesorized with interesting bead jewelry and jewel toned
accesories. I call this my "arsty look".  My favorite piece of clothing is a
vest I made of black cotton,   with a patchwork collage on the front made
from sample swatches of bright prints from Thai Silks.  

Having been a teenager in the 70's, I feel that I've already done my time,
and I don't wear  high heels  except for very formal occasions.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 13:08:32 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Source for gemstone bead buttons/Soft lining for leather "cote"
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 11:21:23 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hi Kat

-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I wish I could afford lapis buttons but I'm more likely to
>grommet this so that it has more 'ease' or use 'buttonholes'.  IOW it
>will lace not button.

Now that I think a bit more about it, in this case, lacing would work better 
and it would save wear and tear on the fingertips from sewing on the 
buttons.

But, if you do decide that you'd like to use gem bead buttons on another 
project, FireMountain Gems is a very good source. These folks used to have a 
store in LA back in the 70's but now they're up in Cave Junction, OR. You 
can find them on the Web under FireMountain Gems. This site is mostly a 
place to order one of their catalogs. Their phone number is (800)292-9304. 
They are an excellent company and have decent prices. They have a lot of 
other neat stuff for beadworkers, jewelers, and costumers.

I found a 16" strand of Howlite (dyed Lapis) 10mm beads (about 41 beads) for 
$6.83 per strand (If you buy more than 3, there is a proportional discount). 
They also have a 12mm (34 beads) for $9.82. Their regular lapis runs from 
$14.95 (for 4mm) to $29.95 (for 8mm). I got some good deals on peridot, 
garnet, and amber bits for my 20's silk and velvet dress and coccoon coat 
(almost have everything I need to start building it).

If I manage to get a pic of it once it's done and
actually get it developed, I'll scan it and put it up somewhere.

Great. Am looking forward to seeing it.

Lonna (Enyd)

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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>> My heart sunk with dread when I realized the long "ribbon" type slashes,
>> seen in German, Swiss, landsknecht, and women's mid-17th c. sleeves
>> do appear to be lined and finished on the edges. (Too much work!)

There are woodcuts of some soldiers with ribbon type slashes that are
unlined, but it only works for a decently heavy leather or heavy felted
wool.  Most of the other fancy or thinner fabrics are lined. If the ribbon
slashes done't have enough body they just look wrong, they will twist and
crinkle individually.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 13:49:16 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 12:09:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
>
>--Katharine Whisler

I wear natural fibers, cottons and some rayons.  I wont wear polyester or
other synthetics. I only wear leather shoes, usually hicking boots.  I can
count every pair of shoes I own on one hand.
   I have 3 children and go to college full time. There is no going out to a
nice place...it just doesn't happen.
  So...I wear jeans, sweats, t-shirts in the winter and long A-line dresses
in the summer.  The most work I do on laundry day, is hanging something to
dry. I wont buy something that  is dry clean only.   Sometimes I drool at
what others are wearing, the latest thing, and then I realize that by the
time I would have a chance to wear it, it would be out of style. Classic
styles are better.
  I guess, I would have to be classified under the boring clothes side.
   Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 13:51:04 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 12:07:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid: was:Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

This brings up a good question... I have a great
corset that I would *love* to wear more often, but the
only one around to help me lace it is my boyfriend who
won't do it... any suggestions on how to lace it by
yourself?

Sarah


> I ever have before.  I
> decided on side lacings, too, since, alas, I have no
> 'tiring maid, nor
> beloved who might aid me to lace otherwise.  --
> Gra/inne
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 14:16:06 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
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-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

Sarah Toney wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> 
> This brings up a good question... I have a great
> corset that I would *love* to wear more often, but the
> only one around to help me lace it is my boyfriend who
> won't do it... any suggestions on how to lace it by
> yourself?
> 

Make your lace really, really long.  Loosely lace the corset while not
wearing it, slide it on over your head and then start pulling on the
laces until you have it as tight as you wish.  This does leave a lot of
extra lace when you have it done up so I tie big loopy bows and tuck
inside as needed.

Alexandria
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 14:22:43 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 15:35:50 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/10/1999 21:29:38 Pacific Daylight Time, 
KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu writes:

<< So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
 life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
 fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic? >>

That's an interesting question.  I think that the more into the history of 
fashion, and the elaborate intricacies of costume I get, the less anything 
but simple modern clothing appeals to me (on a day to day basis). Since 
surgery a few years ago, I've begun to dress down (pants rather than 
skirts/suits at work) and affect a more casual daily mode of dress.  I still 
go "all out" at any opportunity to dress up, but it is no longer a part of my 
routine to constantly sport the latest fashion, and I've always been a 
clothes horse.  I think that it is a cost issue, meaning I'd rather have half 
a dozen really really spectacular period pieces and boring daily clothes.  

Fellow listers?

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 15:37:38 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
To: h-costume@indra.com, grnmanforge@earthlink.net
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/10/1999 17:51:35 Pacific Daylight Time, 
cjcannon@greymists.com writes:

<<  Wow--a die...anyone know of any craftsmen who might be making
 these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
 arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol >>

Carol, contact Dan at grnmanforge@earthlink.net, he makes marvelous pinking 
tools, and his wife is a member of this list.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Be not afraid of greatness; some are born great,
some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust 
upon them."
Twelfth-Night, II, v - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:   http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 12:41:16 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Boring clothes?
In-Reply-To: <v04205515b3fff9e5d116@[205.252.121.168]>
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 <199909110445.WAA16605@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

           I cannot afford designer clothes, nor anything approaching such.
 I am not a seamstress, truly.  I sew at a basic level.  I mostly wear
comfortable clothes that are not excessive for work and most other daily
happenings.  If I find them in my favorite colors, I will buy & wear
those--which are: deep true blue, royal purple [blue-toned, not red-toned],
deep teal [blue or green], emerald green.  I won't wear 'muddy' colors.
Most reds, pinks, oranges, and yellows do not suit my very pale
complexion/ruddy cheeks/red hair.  I don't wear most of those, either,
therefore.  Bittersweet is fine.  I love the feel of silk, cashmere, and
other costly fabrics, but cannot indulge the taste often.  I like flowy,
drapy skirts, dresses and nightgowns.
I don't wear tight, constricting anything, by preference.  I am still
experimenting to find my niche in Medieval attire.  I like Empire-waisted
dresses in part because of the way they move.  There are other periods with
which I might experiment had I outlets for them, but I have not been able
to justify to myself the cost of robing myself from those periods w/o that.
:-)  And now, you know more about me than most of the people around me do,
in terms of what I like.--Carol
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:09:18 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/99 1:13:52 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
dragonlair@wireweb.net writes:

<< any suggestions on how to lace it by
 > yourself? >>
There is also a hooking busk which hooks down the front available at corset 
supply houses.  Cheryl
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:10:12 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/1999 12:37:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
MzScahlett@aol.com writes:

<< So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
  life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
  fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic? > >>

As a designer for the entertainment industry and a full time college 
instructor, I have to be very presentable everyday, stand out enough to be 
noticed but not too much. Until recently, my entire wardrobe for fall/winter 
was black with a small amount of white while spring/summer was beige with 
white. Last year I finally discovered color and now my spring/summer clothes 
are reds and greens! What a change. I still have to wear heels and hose even 
though my heart is in flats. I feel like I lived out of the J.Peterman 
catalog for the last six or seven years, but as it is no longer available, I 
am looking for a new source of clothing supply. I don't have time to sew for 
myself!  Basically Donna Karan and Anna Sui are the designers I gravitate to 
at this point in time and being in the Los Angeles area, am able to get their 
clothes at a decent price. I guess location plays a big part of what types of 
clothes are available along with what one must wear for ones job. Miss Mela 
PS Hi Penny!
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:51:40 -0400
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>

	Hi, I've been lurking for a while and am very impressed by how knowlegeable
people are... Anyhow, I am making a elizabethan upper-middle-class costume
for a ren. faire, and I wanted to know if tied-on sleeves were appropriate
for English fashion at that time? I am a little confused about sleeves in
general, too.
		Thank you!
			Kristen

Kristen Gee
kristen.gee@linkpa.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 15:51:06 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 14:03:41 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

I buy my reed from Michael's, which is a craft store chain.  I do not have a 
mail order source; sorry!

To the lady who was disappointed over reed that cracked... you do have to 
wax the reed first, before inserting it.  This helps to strengthen it, make 
it more pliable, and preserves it.  You can really feel the difference after 
the reed is waxed; it feels pretty puny actually before the waxing.  And I 
usually have to replace a reed or two a year in my 18th c. fully boned 
corset.  I used the 1/2" flat reed, and it *is* usually the reed on one of 
the sides that breaks, near the waist.  I am smaller than most, and when 
making a corset for very strong/very mobile or larger women, always use the 
5/8" wide reed, and on the seams, either reinforce ALL my corsets with 
steels, or a combination of steels and the half-round reeds.

I store my corsets along with my other re-enacting garb in trunks either in 
my bedroom or another part of the house that stays pretty constant in 
temperature and humidity throughout the year.  It helps.

Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 16:04:04 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

A friend of mine is looking for a pattern for men's 20's-30's tuxedos. 
She has friends in a band that plays the music of these periods.  Does
anyone know of any patterns out there.  My husband has a 30's tux that
he inherited and fits him, so I know some of the design differences to
tell her.  Anyone done one of these with a bought pattern?
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 16:54:51 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 17:01:06 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Yes, detachable sleeves are appropriate for English Elizabethan
middle-class. They weren't neccessarily tied in with individual ties as
many reproductions are, they were often laced in with a strip of lacing
holes under the shoulder of the bodice and along the edge of the sleeve.
The early Elizabethan 'mahoitered' style of sleeve doesn't seem to be
laced in, they seem to have been sewn in, although the tighter lower
sleeves may have laced in seperately. 

Would it help to think of them as a separate piece of clothing, like a
hat or scarf? Changing one's sleeves was a good way to alter the look of
a gown without the trouble and expense of making a large and expensive
pieces. Are you confused by the different styles? How they were
constructed? What materials are appropriate? 

Oh yeah, and which RenFaire are you going to be doing?

Karen

On Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:51:40 -0400 "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
writes:
> 
> -Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
> 
> 	Hi, I've been lurking for a while and am very impressed by 
> how knowlegeable people are... Anyhow, I am making a elizabethan
upper-middle-class 
> costume for a ren. faire, and I wanted to know if tied-on sleeves were 
> appropriate for English fashion at that time? I am a little confused
about 
> sleeves in general, too.
> 		Thank you!
> 			Kristen
> 
> Kristen Gee
> kristen.gee@linkpa.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>




On Sat, 11 Sep 1999 12:41:16   Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>           I cannot afford designer clothes, nor anything approaching such.

I know, last time I went looking for a dress in an actual department store I nearly passed out. We have a store here called Ross, which sells overstock and buyout (like bankrupcy sales) from other stores. They usually have very nice clothes (some in actual designer names but, I mean it's more the look and feel of the clothes I think that's important than what te tag says) , so I shop there alot. They will tend to have that "item" you see on TV and can't find elsewhere. I like to take the pieces I see and blend them as part of my own style. I'm no high fashion mavin, I lack the body and the time to deal with all the prep work involved in being vogue. LOL. I just like dressing unique and it seems mostly the people here wear jeans and ambercrombie and fitch or old navy and I'm sorry, but I'm not going to spend thirty dollars on a t shirt to advertise a chain store that doesn't need my help in the first place. lol. I find actually some of the pretiest things I own were fairly chea!
p and made by little "no name" comppanies. 

PS.
You have red hair? I bet it's beautiful! I always wanted red hair but instead my hair is dark chocolate brown... I envy you. :)

Ginn


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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

I am 5 ft 3 so I wear the heels for height mostly, I also tend to go for more of a cube heel or a wedge so it's not hard to walk in them, I"m definately not a stilleto person to say the least! lol
---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 

>Having been a teenager in the 70's, I feel that I've already done my time,
>and I don't wear  high heels  except for very formal occasions.  
>
>Margo
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 17:55:33 1999
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 19:08:52 -0400
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>

I think that my confusion about sleeves is mostly style-based. I've heard of
'french sleeves' and  I've seen lots of different things in paintings of
that time period, but there never seems to be one 'standard sleeve'. Is that
because there were a lot of different styles? Or were sleeve styles 'trendy'
and change frequently? That's my issue of confusion.
	I am going to the Pennsylvania RenFaire in Mt. Hope, PA. I am making the
costume for a high school costume competition (I'm in high school)
			Kristen
------------------------------

-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Yes, detachable sleeves are appropriate for English Elizabethan
middle-class. They weren't neccessarily tied in with individual ties as
many reproductions are, they were often laced in with a strip of lacing
holes under the shoulder of the bodice and along the edge of the sleeve.
The early Elizabethan 'mahoitered' style of sleeve doesn't seem to be
laced in, they seem to have been sewn in, although the tighter lower
sleeves may have laced in seperately.

Would it help to think of them as a separate piece of clothing, like a
hat or scarf? Changing one's sleeves was a good way to alter the look of
a gown without the trouble and expense of making a large and expensive
pieces. Are you confused by the different styles? How they were
constructed? What materials are appropriate?

Oh yeah, and which RenFaire are you going to be doing?

Karen


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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 19:49:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 12:26 AM
> -Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
>
> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
>

What a fun thread!
I guess you might say that I employ a sort of historical flair in my
everyday dress.  My favourite time in fashion history is the Edwardian era,
followed closely by the Regency period.  I love the empire waistlines common
to both, they're so flattering, especially to a mom of 4 with a little
"kangaroo pouch" left over from the pregnancies.   ;-)   You can nearly
always find me running about in a dress with a raised waistline and an
ankle-length skirt.  I'm actually much more comfortable dressed this way
than when wearing jeans or any sort of pants.  Since I'm 5' 1" my dresses
often brush the floor a bit which is just fine with me.  (I'm sure my
neighbours are beginning to question whether or not I actually have feet!
lol.)
I do tend to stay basic in my colour choice though, I'm a redhead too so my
wardrobe is mostly taupe, cream, hunter and black.
I cried when J. Peterman went out of business! I often matched wearable
vintage separates with Peterman "retros".  I'm getting the definite
impression that J. Peterman isn't going to be what it used to be under the
direction of Paul Harris.
As for footwear, I've a few pairs of 1900's shoes that I wear (they're so
beautifully made they'll probably hold up for another hundred years!) some
modern-day copies and several pairs of ballet slippers.  And when I go
formal I love wearing either authentic vintage gowns or recreations.  It's a
great way to get conversations going at parties as the dresses never fail to
attract some admirers.

Enjoying all the posts,
Kerrie, who was born to the wrong era.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 18:39:54 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 04:51 PM 09/11/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
>
>	Hi, I've been lurking for a while and am very impressed by how knowlegeable
>people are... Anyhow, I am making a elizabethan upper-middle-class costume
>for a ren. faire, and I wanted to know if tied-on sleeves were appropriate
>for English fashion at that time?

Yes, absolutely, of course!  Tie-on sleeves are very period.  

You say you're confused about sleeves in general, could you be a bit more
specific?

Margo Anderson


"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 18:42:57 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>The early Elizabethan 'mahoitered' style of sleeve 

I've never heard this term.  What is a mahoitered sleeve?

margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 19:25:05 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <ace71c88.250c1124@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 20:34:56 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

If Mela was taller or if I was shorter, we could be sisters, straight, long,
red hair.

I dress on the artsy side, never a black jacket for me!  I dress differently
for every occassion, at home, I am very casual, t-shirts and shorts.  I like
to keep people guessing as to what kind of work, I really do, by changing my
appearance.  I can dress like a ballet dancer, hippie, wearable art,
vintage, soft/fluffy, or very artsy and colorful,  but never boring.  I like
to name my outfits after "the look" they project.   I shop frequently at the
thrift stores and put together pieces that people would not normally put
together.  I never pay retail, except for shoes and undergarments, and then
I go to the discount houses.  I have a pet peeve about paying the retailers'
LARGE markup.

As for colors... well, you all know I LOVE color, so I wear every color but
green and orange.  I can wear either soft or loud colors.

For accessories, I have gone through phases in "my looks".  For a couple of
years I was into jewelry and bangles, now I rarely wear jewelry.  When I do,
it is usually vintage. For a while, I was into lots of shoes, now I'm into
hats with long scarves tied onto them.  Heck, I even have a veil from
Egyptian that I never wear the same way twice.  The veil is really neat with
all these bangleily coins and people trying to figure out where the jingling
is coming from.

For those who got the last CSA newletter or the last national symposium, you
know what I dress like. <g>

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999, KATHARINE WHISLER wrote:

> 
> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
> 
Hmmmm...let me put it this way...someone once told me I dressed more like
an arts student than a science student. I don't buy new clothes often
because I tend to look at stuff and think - I could make that for much 
cheaper. Of course I rarely do, although some of my stash is set aside
for making 'mundane' clothes. Most of my new clothes come from the
Community Aid Abroad shop. I tend to wear things until they are falling
apart (and then my husband throws them out else I'd keep wearing them *grin*)
I wear skirts a lot - either very long or very short. As far as shoes
go I wear boots with 2" heels or flat sandals or none at all, though I
do have a couple of pairs of dress shoes that don't see light of day much.
Recently I've been making Edwardian style outfits for special occasions
(weddings etc), and as anyone will tell you I'd much rather be wearing
garb. You'll know the day I really stop caring what other people think
because then I'll just be wearing it all the time. :-)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 19:32:38 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 17:44:27 -0700
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Subject: H-COST: Historical Dress-making/Tailoring Terms
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

     It was Kristin's post re: Elizabethan sleeves and the responses to it
that brought on this from Me:  Is there a really good on-line source for
these?  I've been seeing so many mentions of terms I don't understand.  It
would be fabulous to have such a resource bookmarked!  But if not, is there
a resource book that you'd recommend for those and other historical
costuming terminology that one may require to look up in order to
understand what the discussion is about?  Thank you for your
suggestions--Carol 
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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 8:34 PM
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> If Mela was taller or if I was shorter, we could be sisters, straight,
long,
> red hair.
>
Whee! Fellow "fireys" (my brother's "pet" name for me, from the movie
Labyrinth) !  I think several of the folks on this list have mentioned
having red hair.  I wonder if there's a link between follicle pigmentation
and a passion for historical costume. <g>

Kerrie

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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 17:51:16 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Alexandria Doyle wrote:

> Make your lace really, really long.  Loosely lace the corset while not
> wearing it, slide it on over your head and then start pulling on the
> laces until you have it as tight as you wish.  This does leave a lot of
> extra lace when you have it done up so I tie big loopy bows and tuck
> inside as needed.

I also do this, although it depends on *which* corset I'm wearing as to how
long i make the ties.  My Italian Ren corset actually has pretty short
laces on it because I can get it over my head even on a short leash.  Can't
do that with the Victorian, though.  You can also tie long laces around
your waist if they're long enough.

Carolyn

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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 17:53:05 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Cheryldee@aol.com wrote:

> -Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 9/11/99 1:13:52 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> dragonlair@wireweb.net writes:
>
> << any suggestions on how to lace it by
>  > yourself? >>
> There is also a hooking busk which hooks down the front available at corset
> supply houses.  Cheryl

The problem I have with the hooking busk in the front is that I have to loosen
the laces in the back to actually hook it.  I can't hook them if it's
completely tied in back.  So I leave the laces tied but at their maximum length
so I can separate the back and get the hooks fastened.

Carolyn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 19:59:17 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "h-needlework" <H-Needlework@Ansteorra.org>, "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>,
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Subject: H-COST: Call for Papers and Study Tour 
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:06:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I am sorry about the mass posting, but I wanted all of you to know...

The Costume Society of America's National Symposium, "Fashions Lost and
Found, or Survival of the Fittest"
 will be in Williamsburg and Richmond, Virginia, May 31-June 3, 2000,
http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/natsym.htm .  The symposium will
include Colonial Williamsburg, behind-the-scenes at the Valentine Museum,
and the Maymont House (aka Dooley Mansion). Currently, there is a Call for
Papers for this symposium with a deadline of Oct. 15, 1999. These papers can
cover any part of our industry, from historic to wearable art fashions. I
have added to the website, an agenda webpage on the pre and post symposium
study tours.  The pre-symposium tour will include Monticello (home of Thomas
Jefferson), Sherwood Forest (home of John Tyler).  The post syposium tour
will include, Yorktown, Jamestown, Kenmore Plantation, Stratford Hall
(Robert E. Lee's family home), and Gunston Hall.

A symposium schedule of events and registration information will be posted
to the website in January or February, 2000.  So please bookmark this
webpage.

Penny Ladnier
Webmaster, Costume Society of America
http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 20:01:54 1999
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

Forgive me if this has been asked before, I'm fairly new to this list. How is wool
fabric fulled?

jb

<<<I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C
- -- properly felt was made from unspun wool. >>>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 20:03:33 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I lace into a Victorian corset by myself this way:  First, I use 1/4" satin
ribbon for lacing.  It slide easily, and is very, very, strong.  I use a
lace about 3' longer than the laced portion, laced so that there are loops
at the waist on each side.  I put it on over my head and hook the loops over
the handle of my patio door, then slowly walk away, and the lace pulls tight
as I walk.  Reach behind, unhook the loops, and tie them in a large bow and
tuck the hanging bits inside the lacing.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 20:05:21 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <ace71c88.250c1124@aol.com> <008b01befcb6$c408a1a0$3b56accf@e4c2n6> <000901befcb9$4f5b85e0$a353ccd1@ouppc>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

> Whee! Fellow "fireys" (my brother's "pet" name for me, from the movie
> Labyrinth) !  I think several of the folks on this list have mentioned
> having red hair.  I wonder if there's a link between follicle pigmentation
> and a passion for historical costume. <g>

My red hair comes from a bottle, but I can claim my gray hairs came from
taking too many historic costume classes and five hour exams!!!! LOL.
Maybe, Mela's red hair came from teaching historic costume.  No... Mela was
not my professor, just a wonderful person I met on this list.

Really, I have always wanted long red hair since second grade.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 20:12:38 1999
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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <A893D93701AA3400@c2smtp.kentlaw.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:25:10 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

I worked through de-lurking day so I guess I'll de-lurk now. One (one of a
long list) of the reasons I sew is because I usually can't stand about 95%
of whatever the current fashions of the day are. A fair portion of my
wardrobe is very basic - at first glance. At second glance anyone who cares
to see it will realize all of my skirts are to my ankles. My mother swears
I'm a flower child except that most of the fabrics and styles are more
Victorian. I also tend to incorporate historic details - puffed sleeves,
ribbon embroidery, high collars, contrast inserts - to simulate slashing, or
anything else I can think up (and find the time to make). I also have a
"thing" for mixing old and new. Several years ago I made a georgette dress
from a Donna Karan pattern - the dress is unlined I and wear a unitard under
it - funky and modern except that the fabric is a pretty kind of Victorian
floral print.  "Granny" boots became a signature item way back in high
school - they were perfect with the Gunny Sack dresses I was knocking off as
every day clothes.
But then my taste in clothing is not the only part of my personality which
appears normal - at first glance...

Beth - who needs to get back to stitching many little ribbon flowers onto a
vest.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 20:16:32 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:31:55 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>My red hair comes from a bottle, but I can claim my gray hairs came from
>taking too many historic costume classes and five hour exams!!!! LOL.


I've got red-hair-from-a-bottle, too, although my natural hair color is a
rich brown which used to get red highlights in the summer.  Now it's just a
nice deep auburny color, and those pesky grey hairs stay hidden, too!  (I've
really only been noticing those for about a year--coincidentally, I finished
my PhD during that year :-)

Susan




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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:37:58 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
>
>I worked through de-lurking day so I guess I'll de-lurk now. One (one of a
>long list) of the reasons I sew is because I usually can't stand about 95%
>of whatever the current fashions of the day are.

That sounds like me.  I like jewel tone colors and black during the whole
season, not just in the winter, and I tend to like specific styles which
aren't always available--things like mandarin colors and oriental-style
fastenings, longer skirts, etc.  And I love unusual fabrics (well, unusual
to find off the rack in stores) like brocades and silks.  I have a deep
electric purple dupionni silk shirt/jacket I made about four years ago that
gets me raves every time I wear it to work (I've got to find that pattern
again!).

Although most of my wardrobe is fairly conservative office wear, I often
wear historic jewelery to accessorize it.

Susan


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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:15:37 -0500
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>

Weird, I also have red hair.  Could be we are just more proud of it so we
include it in a description?

Vince Lyons wrote:

> -Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 8:34 PM
> > -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> >
> > If Mela was taller or if I was shorter, we could be sisters, straight,
> long,
> > red hair.
> >
> Whee! Fellow "fireys" (my brother's "pet" name for me, from the movie
> Labyrinth) !  I think several of the folks on this list have mentioned
> having red hair.  I wonder if there's a link between follicle pigmentation
> and a passion for historical costume. <g>
>
> Kerrie
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 21:20:37 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:33:42 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

KATHARINE WHISLER wrote:
>
> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your
> everyday life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

I wear primarily jeans or shorts & shirts...we have a Goodwill warehouse
in town where they take all the clothes that don't sell so I go and buy
linen, cotton & silk items for $1.27 a pound...amazing how much silk it
takes for a pound! <grin>  I also use this resource for some costuming
(bought a bunch of stuff there over the summer for this fall's
production of 'Inherit the Wind').  For dressy I tend to wear more
modern versions of a cotehardie or short skirts & tights & the silk or
linen shirts.  When I go to the plays I wear the same shirts with cotton
or linen pants (have to be more conservative because it's a high school!
<grin>).  I have very, very, very bad knees (one reason I'm a stay at
home mom) and *always* wear flats...unfortunately my feet have shrunk
back after having my son and my last two pair of thigh high suede boots
don't fit anymore <pout> (not that it bothered my dh who tried them on
and discovered with a wee bit of stretching at the little toe they would
fit *him*!).  So it's time to hit Nolensville Road again once I have
some more money (a stretch in Nashville that includes 7 thrift or
consignment stores and one of the Hancock Fabrics!) <grin>.  I didn't
pay more than $25 for any of my boots and don't plan to pay more for
'new' ones!  I've been known to wear garb out and about as well as
around the house.

Kat
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
> 
> I've got red-hair-from-a-bottle, too, although my natural hair color
> is a rich brown which used to get red highlights in the summer.  Now
> it's just a nice deep auburny color, and those pesky grey hairs stay
> hidden, too!  (I've really only been noticing those for about a
> year--coincidentally, I finished my PhD during that year :-)

My gray hair comes from children <grin> (I left grad school because my
biological clock went atomic).  My natural color is a light auburn and I
color it to make it more like the red it was when I was young.  I had
bright red hair and blue eyes until I was three when my eyes turned
green and my hair a deeper red...then when we moved to Nashville when I
was 9 my eyes turned brown and my hair went auburn.

Kat
wondering if we can get a large enough population to 'prove' the
redhead/costumer theory! <wink>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 21:28:54 1999
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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:36:59 -0500
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


------ =_NextPart_000_01BEFC9E.4CA88F20
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Kerrie --

add me to the list of redheads.. and until now I've never met a redhead =
with such a similar name!

Maybe it's the fair skin that directs our interest in times when such =
was really a fashion asset (as opposed to the more recent era of  tanned =
skin)


Carrie

-----Original Message-----
From:	Vince Lyons [SMTP:vjlyons@snip.net]
Sent:	Saturday, September 11, 1999 7:54 PM
To:	h-costume@indra.com
Subject:	Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes


-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 1999 8:34 PM
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> If Mela was taller or if I was shorter, we could be sisters, straight,
long,
> red hair.
>
Whee! Fellow "fireys" (my brother's "pet" name for me, from the movie
Labyrinth) !  I think several of the folks on this list have mentioned
having red hair.  I wonder if there's a link between follicle =
pigmentation
and a passion for historical costume. <g>

Kerrie

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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/1999 7:39:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time, kdyer@home.com 
writes:

<< My natural color is a light auburn and I
 color it to make it more like the red it was when I was young.  I had
 bright red hair and blue eyes until I was three when my eyes turned
 green and my hair a deeper red...then when we moved to Nashville when I
 was 9 my eyes turned brown and my hair went auburn. >>
I can't believe it! Another person whose eyes turned from blue to green. Mine 
turned about my 21st birthday and have been green ever since. My natural 
color was also a light auburn, but after too many summers of my hair turning 
"Lucy" red, I went to coloring my hair. My husband says that it has been so 
many years since I have seen my natural color that who knows what color it is 
now! Oh, Penny, one week after I saw you last, I spiral permed all that long 
hair of mine and it's still that way. No more straight hair. My mother says I 
refuse to grow up! Miss Mela
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 23:57:41 -0400
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I was born a redhead but but the time I was 19 it was med. to dk. brown
with copper highlights.  Given enough sun, it was brown at the roots,
red in the middle and strawberry on the ends.  When I entered cronehood,
I decided to cover the gray by going back to red.  For theatre reasons,
I was Strawberry blonde till now.  For Fall I'll be light Auburn. I tend
to grow my hair to waist length then chop off a foot or more of it.  
I can't stand much in the way of prints, either on or around me so tend
to depend on solid colors.  Half my wardrobe got put away when I went
red, so I'm adding deep browns and greens.  I'm basically conservative
in Nature.  I'm one of the few around here who dresses up or wears hat
and gloves to events.  Goes back to being brought up in the Fifties here
in New England.  
When I ran workshops in winter, I would always wear black wool trousers,
a black or white turtleneck and a deep color plaid wool big shirt.  Of
course, I'd add "buttons" with amusing costumer sayings to lighten
things up.  In the summer I'm fond of sundresses and shorts.   I have
too many tee shirts with show logos on them.  I can wear short skirts,
but find I'll reach for a long one instead.  When I go shopping, the
only clothes I can wear off the rack tend to be the most expensive
ones!  I'm tall, sort of thin (for my age), narrow backed with a widened
ribcage because of my singing.
I've acquired hordes of jewelry over the years, most of which gets
loaned out for stage use.  I find that I tend to wear only the smaller,
better pieces now-a-days.  Oh yes, my husband likes to surprise me every
so often by going to the Original Filene's Basement and coming home with
several gorgeous evening gowns, so I have more than I'll ever use, not
to mention the ones I've grown out of.  I think I have at least 6
tiaras, but I don't just use them for me.  My favorite outfits are the
ones I pick up at Renn faires, costume conventions and Costume College. 
I like the unusual just like the rest of us, and often wear them as hall
costumes at several of the conventions I go to each year.  Life would be
too boring without "Costumes"!
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston, MA area, USA
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 22:47:00 1999
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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Silk question
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 23:00:45 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>

Is silkessence (blouse weight) anything close to period? It's going on sale
near me next weekend for under 2 bucks a yard, and if it's passable I'd like
to make my new chemise out of it. Also, any hints on sewing it?

Anya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 22:54:29 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

Can someone help me untangle this one? On a list of English trading goods 
sent to the Hudson's Bay Company's Cumberland House post in 1777 (Rich 
1:362-363), I found the following items of clothing: 
"Shirts white strapt/Shirts check strapt"
For the same post in 1778, there are "Shirts cotton striped/Shirts white 
Strapt/Shirts check Plain" 
In both lists, the "white strapt" shirts are the most common. I haven't a 
clue what they are, though. I've seen shirts and other items of clothing on 
many inventory lists for the 1774-1821 period and most of them make sense, 
but this has me stumped. The editor of another journal of an HBC post c. 
1790 interpreted "Shirts SS" as "shoulder strap" shirts, which I'd never 
heard of. (I figured it probably meant swanskin shirts--which I'd seen 
elsewhere--until now.) 
Any suggestions are welcome.

Your obliged and obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred

    
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 22:54:55 1999
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From: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:07:34 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

I have so little time to sew for myself that I dress more boringly than I'd
like.  It's also too hot here in Arizona much of the year to wear the
wearable art leather jackets I've made for myself.  But I prefer to
overdress for any occasion rather than underdressed as does my DH.  He's
agreed to wear his new leather doublets with jeans for everyday wear and
bemoans how boring the men's section of clothing stores is.  I bought a
pattern for a ruffled man's shirt at the sale, and I've promised to make him
a couple of each of the three styles, and this is also for daily wear.  I
got some patterns for some Goth-type dresses for myself to have fun with.
I'm still looking for the Zoot suit and Shakespeare in Love patterns; they
aren't out yet here!  We'll wear anything and everything that we like.
We're also looking forward to moving to Los Angeles later this year, because
we'll be able to wear our favorite things more!

Kels

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 22:56:15 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk question
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 00:11:47 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings--

>Is silkessence (blouse weight) anything close to period? It's going on sale
>near me next weekend for under 2 bucks a yard, and if it's passable I'd
like
>to make my new chemise out of it. Also, any hints on sewing it?


While I've found silkessence doesn't do too bad a job of looking like silk,
the real thing I'd worry about when making a chemise out of it would be what
kind of weather you'd be wearing it in.  It doesn't breathe much, and if
it's going to be directly next to your skin, particularly if you're wearing
one of the more fitted styles, you may find it similar to wearing a plastic
bag.  However, if it's for something looser, and you're not going to be
wearing it in hot weather, you could certainly do worse...

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 23:00:52 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/1999 9:09:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
smadsen@primenet.com writes:

<< We're also looking forward to moving to Los Angeles later this year, 
because
 we'll be able to wear our favorite things more!
 
 Kels >>


Let us know when and exactly where you move. Then we can point out all the 
good shopping places! Mela
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 23:13:17 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 00:26:22 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

Thank you for the tip about waxing the reed for the stays, that's something 
that I didn't think of. 

The stays that I had with the reed was good for a few years, but then the 
cracking of the reed got to be too much of a problem trying to continually 
replace. I have since made my stays completely from the spring steel, which, 
because of my chest-heavy figure is really the strength that I probably 
needed in the first place. I also found that I was more comfortable making 
both a front and back lacing pattern. I have a tendency to shift weight a 
lot. So having the possibility of adjusting both front and back together is 
really helpful. I adjust the back so that the front will always come 
completely together when laced. Then I leave the back lacing in place, and at 
events always use the front for putting the stays on and off. This is so much 
easier for dressing in the mornings. 

Thanks for your suggestions,
Susan K. 
42nd HRH & 17th Light Dragoons
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 23:20:29 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 00:33:17 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk question
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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

I believe that silkessence is really polyester, and not real silk at all. I 
don't know how period correct that you like to be. But if you are doing 18th 
century for example, silk would not be something used for chemises, except 
for a very wealthy women. And it would never pass inspections for camp life. 
But since I am not familiar with what you are portraying, and the amount of 
authenticity that you are portraying, that would be your decision. Hope this 
is helpful,
Susan K.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 23:24:11 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:35:52 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
In-Reply-To: <e620a2c8.250c827a@aol.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:13 AM 09/12/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>Let us know when and exactly where you move. Then we can point out all the 
>good shopping places! Mela
           I'm beginning to feel very left out, between those of you able
to shop the LA and NY fabric/clothing dists.  {VERY BIG Wistful sigh}  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 11 23:35:35 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1895 Lancers full levee dress
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

I am starting on a 17th or 16th (haven't found the right wool yet) 1895 
Lancer's Full Levee Dress uniform for my husband but am having trouble 
locating the correct hat. I have pictures but do not know who sells them. Any 
help list? Miss Mela
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 03:08:12 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Stencilling vs. Block Printing
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

    Does anyone know when each technique became available to/used in the
attire of the nobility in Europe and the Middle East?  Thank you.  Carol 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 04:18:49 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
Organization: Home For Deranged Bunnies
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 05:29:57 +0000
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>


> << Back stitching is a must for the corset. >>
> If you look inside most hand sewn period clothing, you will find
> either that the entire garment has been made with a small, regular
> backstitch, or with a running backstitch. (3 or 4 running stitches
> followed by a backstitch).  The seam allowances are also most often
> overcast to prevent fraying.  Hope this helps.  Cheryl Odom

That's how I do my hand sewing. I prefer it to machine sewing. I 
just seem to have a lead foot with the machine. It sounds silly but I 
don't have the patience for the machine but I do for working with my 
hands. It's more relaxing for me.

Kassandra NickKraken
JUST CALL ME MISTRESS BUNNY
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From: "Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomad@opalsun.com>
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-Poster: "Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomad@opalsun.com>


Around here we call them organic fabric weights.  And if I get the right
combination of cats, it is actually quite effective (unless I am cutting
velvet...)

Speaking of velvet, has anyone used the Simplicity Celtic pattern?  I am
thinking of getting it for Scottish County Dance.

Margo Glenn-Lewis
(No, I'm a different Margo.)

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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes/RED HAIR
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-Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>

Auburn/reddish here.  Not as red as it was when I swam every day outside as
a kid, but still reddish.  (a tiny bit chemically enhanced with some
highlights.  :-)  )

Megan

Kat & Kent wrote:

> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
> Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
> >
> > I've got red-hair-from-a-bottle, too, although my natural hair color
> > is a rich brown which used to get red highlights in the summer.  Now
> > it's just a nice deep auburny color, and those pesky grey hairs stay
> > hidden, too!  (I've really only been noticing those for about a
> > year--coincidentally, I finished my PhD during that year :-)
>
> My gray hair comes from children <grin> (I left grad school because my
> biological clock went atomic).  My natural color is a light auburn and I
> color it to make it more like the red it was when I was young.  I had
> bright red hair and blue eyes until I was three when my eyes turned
> green and my hair a deeper red...then when we moved to Nashville when I
> was 9 my eyes turned brown and my hair went auburn.
>
> Kat
> wondering if we can get a large enough population to 'prove' the
> redhead/costumer theory! <wink>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 10:15:47 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <historic-costuming@onelist.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Any help ,UK
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 16:27:19 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_152E_01BEFD3B.AF475CE0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Dear List , can anyone help . I have finally convinced my friend that =
she should take a little bit more trouble with costume for some event =
she visits to ehibit her basketmaking. She has thrown thi sback in my =
lap.
In time for the Robin Hood festival at the end of October I have to come =
up with a suitable outfit for this and for other "generally mediaeval " =
events; this is not re-enacting. Size 12 maroon (ish)
I dont have time or space (or inclination ) to start getting all of the =
costumemaking gear together ;
So I am looking for somebody who can supply this in time; If pos in easy =
travelling distance ; She in Castle Donington Mr in Birmingham.- to =
collect etc
Any  suggestions ? please/
Dave



+++++++++++++++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy=20
Editor.Heritage Matters

------=_NextPart_000_152E_01BEFD3B.AF475CE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dear List , can anyone help . I have =
finally=20
convinced my friend that she should take a little bit more trouble with =
costume=20
for some event she visits to ehibit her basketmaking. She has thrown thi =
sback=20
in my lap.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In time for the Robin Hood festival at =
the end of=20
October I have to come up with a suitable outfit for this and for other=20
"generally mediaeval " events; this is not re-enacting. Size 12 maroon=20
(ish)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I dont have time or space (or =
inclination ) to=20
start getting all of the costumemaking gear together ;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>So I am looking for somebody who can =
supply this in=20
time; If pos in easy travelling distance ; She in Castle Donington Mr in =

Birmingham.- to collect etc</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any&nbsp; suggestions ? =
please/</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>+++++++++++++++++++++++++</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>L.D.Mundy <BR>Editor.Heritage=20
Matters</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_152E_01BEFD3B.AF475CE0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 10:29:52 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> I'm working on the theory that the "pinked" type of ornamental slashing, 
> even when quite extensive, doesn't have a visible means to stop fraying.
> Previously on the list, someone mentioned gum arabic or other mixtures 
> may have been painted on the back of the fabric.  (?)

Janet Arnold (in a lecture) told us that gum arabic was used on some 
of the slashings, but it wasn't universal. I could see no evidence of 
it in the slashed textiles I examined at the V&A. Also, I have 
several garments of my own on which I have tried ornamental slashing 
and pinking. I've not found it necessary to use anything on them. In 
fact, you need to deliberately pick at the fabric to loosen it enough 
so that the slashings show up enough.

In one of the exhibits in the Costume area of the V&A I did see a 
garment with slashings which looked as if it did have something at 
the edge. (Of course, I couldn't get close enough to see it from the 
back side. It was in a large glassed in display with several dressed 
mannikins.) The slashings on it were longer than others I did get to 
see closer up. In Janet Arnold's PoF 1560-1620 there is a very 
similar one which also appears to have something at the very edge.

It appears to me that there are both treated and untreated 
slashing/pinkings, perhaps depending on the length of the slash, 
fabric used or angle (bias vs straight of grain) of the slash.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Stenciling vs. Block Printing
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 11:57:54 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Can't answer the question directly, but the Datini papers
show that painting on fabric was common for clothing and
wall hangings in latter 14th Century Italy. Gold painted on
velvet and many colors on linen, at the very least, are
mentioned.

Hope H. Dunlap


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Carol J. Bell Cannon
> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 1999 3:24 AM
> To: Recipient list suppressed
> Subject: H-COST: Stencilling vs. Block Printing
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>     Does anyone know when each technique became available
> to/used in the
> attire of the nobility in Europe and the Middle East?
Thank
> you.  Carol
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 99 16:03:22 GMT
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com



> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> Pinking Tools?
> 
> Where?
> 
> I'd love to find some of these.

    Mary Denise Smith often sells them - her husband makes them in different 
sizes and styles. She the editor of _Costume & Drsssmaker Magazine_.
    -Judy Mitchell

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 11:02:38 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 09:17:28 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

In the research I did on shirts for *The Shirt Book* I did not run across
any references of that type.
Unless you find someone with a better answer I would suggest that you look
at a very simple answer - *strapt* is after all a form of *strapped* and it
might well mean that they were *strapped together in a bundle*.  You might
go back to your text and see if that does not fit.
Should you find another answer, I - for one - would be VERY interested in
it.
Thanks
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
>To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
>Date: Sat, Sep 11, 1999, 9:07 PM
>

>
>-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
>
>Can someone help me untangle this one? On a list of English trading goods 
>sent to the Hudson's Bay Company's Cumberland House post in 1777 (Rich 
>1:362-363), I found the following items of clothing: 
>"Shirts white strapt/Shirts check strapt"
>For the same post in 1778, there are "Shirts cotton striped/Shirts white 
>Strapt/Shirts check Plain" 
>In both lists, the "white strapt" shirts are the most common. I haven't a 
>clue what they are, though. I've seen shirts and other items of clothing on

>many inventory lists for the 1774-1821 period and most of them make sense, 
>but this has me stumped. The editor of another journal of an HBC post c. 
>1790 interpreted "Shirts SS" as "shoulder strap" shirts, which I'd never 
>heard of. (I figured it probably meant swanskin shirts--which I'd seen 
>elsewhere--until now.) 
>Any suggestions are welcome.
>
>Your obliged and obedient servant,
>Angela Gottfred
>
>    
>agottfre@telusplanet.net
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 11:07:57 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778 p.s.
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Another thought is that since these are Canadian in destination I would
suggest that you ask Gail Cariou at Parks Canada if she can shed any light
on the subject.... this is one of her major areas of expertise.
Gail_Cariou@pch.gc.ca
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
>To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
>Date: Sat, Sep 11, 1999, 9:07 PM
>

>
>-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
>
>Can someone help me untangle this one? On a list of English trading goods 
>sent to the Hudson's Bay Company's Cumberland House post in 1777 (Rich 
>1:362-363), I found the following items of clothing: 
>"Shirts white strapt/Shirts check strapt"
>For the same post in 1778, there are "Shirts cotton striped/Shirts white 
>Strapt/Shirts check Plain" 
>In both lists, the "white strapt" shirts are the most common. I haven't a 
>clue what they are, though. I've seen shirts and other items of clothing on

>many inventory lists for the 1774-1821 period and most of them make sense, 
>but this has me stumped. The editor of another journal of an HBC post c. 
>1790 interpreted "Shirts SS" as "shoulder strap" shirts, which I'd never 
>heard of. (I figured it probably meant swanskin shirts--which I'd seen 
>elsewhere--until now.) 
>Any suggestions are welcome.
>
>Your obliged and obedient servant,
>Angela Gottfred
>
>    
>agottfre@telusplanet.net
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 12:14:25 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com (h-costume)
Subject: H-COST: reed supply
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 99 17:28:35 GMT
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com

For anyone who is looking for basket reed to try in corsets (or anything else), 
and lives in an unfortunate area like mine where Michael's doesn't carry reed 
(neither do Joannes, Craft Plus or Total Crafts), you might want to check out 
Gratiot Lake Basketry. I've gotten supplies and basket books from them, they 
are very nice and fairly quick - maybe a couple weeks. It's roughly $7 or less 
for a 1pound coil
    Their url is http://www.weavenet.com/gratiot.html and can also be reached 
at Gratiot Lake Basketry  Star Route 1, Box 16   Mohawk, MI 49950 (906)337-5116 
as well as glbasketry@worldnet.att.net.
    They sell round, half-round, and flat and flat-oval reed (as well as lots 
of other basket stuff!) in all different sizes.

    -Judy Mitchell

no connection, just a happy basket case.. uh, customer.

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Subject: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



"Kels" mentioned looking for the Simplicity zoot suit pattern; I've gone to 
check it out and don't think much of it. The jacket isn't right, except that 
it's long, and it might look okay for a stage costume but I don't think it 
would pass muster for real wear. A man's jacket really has to be tailored, I 
guess. The pants looked okay but not great -- better than anything else, 
though. 

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 12:49:58 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 18:47:11 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
In-Reply-To: <A893D93701AA3400@c2smtp.kentlaw.edu>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

I definitely wear boring clothes in modern life.  I recently discovered
that almost all my skirts for work are either from charity shops or home
made.  There are a few reasons for this - 
- I rarely find anything "fashionable" that I like on me, so I tend to
stick to "classic", 
- my body doesn't fit the shape of a lot of shop-bought skirts and
trousers, and while I often think I would like to make myself something
new, I have too many half-finished period things on my list to start
anything modern,
- I spend all my money on period stuff and going to events.  Everyday
clothes just aren't a priority for my budget.

And - like you I think - whenever I walk into a shop, the thing that
really catches my eye is the most expensive thing there!  I have a taste
for quality!

Jean




In message <A893D93701AA3400@c2smtp.kentlaw.edu>, KATHARINE WHISLER
<KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu> writes
>
>-Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
>
>Here's a question for you all:  A few weeks back when my boyfriend
>accompanied me to my favorite clothing store, Brooks Brothers, he
>remarked that he found it strange that someone as interested in the
>history of fashion as I am would always wear rather boring clothes.
>Thinking about it, he's right, I do tend to choose very basic clothes that
>I can wear for years-- but this is because I'd rather buy something of
>better quality that will last a while than some cheap fashionable thing
>that is poorly made and will wear out in short order.  I suppose the
>fashionable clothes that would interest me are just plain too expensive
>(in time or money).  I did see a lovely Chanel jacket the other day and
>it wasn't boring at all.  Of course, it was also nearly $2000.
>
>So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
>
>--Katharine Whisler
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 11:04:20 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Hi!

I have the same problem.  When I sew by machine, I tend to go really really
fast and then have to spend time using my seam ripper...I've been doing alot
more sewing by hand and actually *love* it!  Less time with the seam ripper,
since I actually take the time to check and see what I'm sewing. I didn't
think I would like this hand sewing, so at first I was very hesitant to try.
The best part of hand sewing is getting to sew and be with my family at the
same time.  And while sewing by hand is obviously going to take longer, it
means getting to spend *more* time with them.  My family *loves this*, I've
actually got to snuggle more with my 4 yr old and had some great discussions
with my 15 yr old.

Another thing I've discovered, the hand of the material and whether the seam
is 'load bearing' should influence your choice of stitch.  For example,
working with velvet and silks recently, I've learned to always baste the
materials and that using a 'stab' backstitch on velvet is effective in
controlling the 'shifting' that velvet tends to do. Doing a very small
running stitch produces a nice seam on silk (a slippery devil) and since
you're not handling the material much, controls the slipage on those kinds
of materials.  But, if either fabric is on a 'load bearing' (borrowing from
a housing construction term) seam, always use a back stitch; 'stabbing' for
velvets.

Anyway, just my observations on handsewing two kinds of luxery fabrics; I'm
sure others will have more to add to this..

Gia

>That's how I do my hand sewing. I prefer it to machine sewing. I
>just seem to have a lead foot with the machine. It sounds silly but I
>don't have the patience for the machine but I do for working with my
>hands. It's more relaxing for me.
>
>Kassandra NickKraken
>JUST CALL ME MISTRESS BUNNY


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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <ace71c88.250c1124@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 14:39:29 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

> In a message dated 9/11/1999 12:37:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> MzScahlett@aol.com writes:
>
> << So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>   life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>   fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic? > >>
>
I'm a hairdresser and tend to look like one.  I make all my own clothes and
they tend to be all black and mostly suits.  My casual wear is mostly black,
but in whatever trendy style is current.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 13:39:03 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 14:51:57 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/12/99 11:46:32 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<< 
 "Kels" mentioned looking for the Simplicity zoot suit pattern; I've gone to 
 check it out and don't think much of it. The jacket isn't right, except that 
 it's long, and it might look okay for a stage costume but I don't think it 
 would pass muster for real wear. A man's jacket really has to be tailored, I 
 guess. The pants looked okay but not great -- better than anything else, 
 though. 
 
 Gail Finke
  ______ >>

I was the assistant designer of "Zoot Suit"  when it premiered at the Mark 
Taper Forum in Los Angeles.  All of the suits were constructed in the shop by 
professional tailors.  I haven't seen the pattern but I can tell you that the 
waists have to be cut high to the middle of the rib cage at least with front 
pleats, very full through the legs and then quickly pegged at the bottom, 
then cuffed.  The coat is very broad through the shoulders (big tailoring 
shoulder pads or even two) and the hem of the coat is fingertip length.  The 
lapels are wide.  There has to be pad stitching, canvas, roll tape, the 
works, and you need to make your own canvas fronts due to the length.  I 
imaging you can alter the Simplicity pattern to do all of these things if you 
know how to tailor.  Cheryl Odom
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 14:11:24 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fulling
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 15:33:16 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>


There is a lengthy discussion of fulling here:
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/rialto/felting-msg.html.  It was
a process applied to wool as it came off the loom to compact
the weave by shrinking, make it both more sturdy and more
supple.  It also resulted in a fabric which raveled less, so
it was done long and hard on a garment to be punched,
pinked, or dagged.  Taken to its extreme, the process can
produce felt.  Felting is a similar process, usually
involving loose unwoven wool.   In 1108 there was already a
fulling mill on the banks of the River Bisenzio in Italy at
Prato, perhaps due to the natural occurrance of a geat
quantity of "fullers earth" nearby.  Fullers earth is a dark
slimy soil used in the process and also used up to the
present cenury for cleaning wool.

Hope H. Dunlap



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 14:19:56 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 15:31:59 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costume UK
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Cc: "." <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>Dear List , can anyone help . I have finally convinced my friend that =
she should take a little bit more trouble with costume for some event =
she visits to ehibit her basketmaking. She has thrown thi sback in my =
lap.
In time for the Robin Hood festival at the end of October I have to come =
up with a suitable outfit for this and for other "generally mediaeval " =
events; this is not re-enacting. Size 12 maroon (ish)
I dont have time or space (or inclination ) to start getting all of the =
costumemaking gear together ;
So I am looking for somebody who can supply this in time; If pos in easy =
travelling distance ; She in Castle Donington Mr in Birmingham.- to =
collect etc
Any  suggestions ? please/

Is it Maggie then ???

If so I'll do a simple T tunic for here if she wants to swap reeds , rushes
& so on, I'm only a few miles away too

Mel
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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Castle Donington / Birmingham costume request
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:36:47 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

Hi
Sorry I deleted the message before saving it - duh!
Anyway, if you're still looking for someone to make stuff in time for Robin
Hood at end of October, contact me & we'll discuss.
I live in Stratford
Emma
black.smith@virgin.net


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 14:53:58 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 11:55:51 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



The images I got when I read this made me giggle.  Don't we yell at out kids
for hanging on the doorknobs?  ;)
  Michelle

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
   I put it on over my head and hook the loops over
>the handle of my patio door, then slowly walk away, and the lace pulls
tight
>as I walk.  Reach behind, unhook the loops, and tie them in a large bow and
>tuck the hanging bits inside the lacing.
>
>Margo
>



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 14:54:01 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 11:41:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



   It might be easier to put it on with the laces in front, rather than
trying to get yourself into it after it is laced. That would be like
climbing through a coat hanger.  You have to have long laces for this method
to.  Put it on backwards, lace it up bottom to top and turn it around
yourself to the back. Pull the laces from above your head.
  I think this is an instance where you have to experiment until you find
what works for you.
  Michelle
>Make your lace really, really long.  Loosely lace the corset while not
>wearing it, slide it on over your head and then start pulling on the
>laces until you have it as tight as you wish.  This does leave a lot of
>extra lace when you have it done up so I tie big loopy bows and tuck
>inside as needed.
>
>Alexandria
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dress forms
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 15:08:11 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

>-Poster: rima@anet.net wrote:

>OK, so who knows of a terrific dress form that 's out there, that's easily
>adjustable between two women's sizes - my friend and I wanna share, but
>she's 4 inches taller and thinner!
>
>Am I dreaming???

I am thinking of getting the uniquely you dress form as well.  But from
Greenberg & Hammer, who lists them in their catalog for about $200 instead
of $250, except I'm guessing the $250 is canadian, which is probably about
the same in US currency.....

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 15:07:36 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I am thinking of getting the uniquely you dress form as well.  But from
>Greenberg & Hammer, who lists them in their catalog for about $200 instead
>of $250, 

The last time I noticed, Jo Anne's fabrics carried them, by special order.
BUT even special orders are included in the 40 or 50 per cent off everything
in the store sales they have several times a year.  Get on their mailing
list the next time you're there, keep watching the sales, and you can get
one for around $100.

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 15:12:58 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 15:18:27 -0500
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
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-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

Michelle wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
>    It might be easier to put it on with the laces in front, rather than
> trying to get yourself into it after it is laced. That would be like
> climbing through a coat hanger.  You have to have long laces for this method
> to.  Put it on backwards, lace it up bottom to top and turn it around
> yourself to the back. Pull the laces from above your head.
>   I think this is an instance where you have to experiment until you find
> what works for you.

Actually, doing it that way would be just as difficult for me, you see, 
I have a chest that gets in my way of seeing my waist line unless
physically lifted out of the way.  Much easier to slip it on then lace
in the back for me!

Alexandria
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:08:50 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 14:19:58 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 02:51 PM 09/12/1999 -0400, you wrote:>-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com
>In a message dated 9/12/99 11:46:32 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:
> "Kels" mentioned looking for the Simplicity zoot suit pattern; ...<snip>...
>  ______ >>
>I was the assistant designer of "Zoot Suit"  when it premiered at the Mark 
>Taper Forum in Los Angeles.  All of the suits were constructed in the shop
by 
>professional tailors.  I haven't seen the pattern...<snip>... I imagine
you can alter the >Simplicity pattern to do all of these things if you know
how to tailor.  Cheryl Odom
            But the problem for me, Cheryl, and I suspect for a lot of
others who buy patterns is--we don't yet know how to tailor.  So, when the
big pattern-makers come out with a pattern that is going to need all of
these alterations in order to make it look right, and I sew it, after
fitting it as best I know how, and doing everything the instructions say
to, and it still doesn't look right--it is very frustrating.  When I have
time and money, I will take classes, perhaps, but right now, I don't.  I
wish the pattern companies would take a little more thought for people like
me, I guess.  Thanks for listening to me rant...I'll go skulk now. Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:13:14 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 14:28:28 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Italian Ren Pattern
In-Reply-To: <E11Pj8m-0001l2-00@mongoose.slip.net>
References: <37DA1246.E54DEB2D@worldnet.att.net>
 <19990910225205.66050.qmail@hotmail.com>
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 02:06 AM 11/09/99 -0700, you wrote:
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>At 01:26 AM 09/11/1999, Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>wrote:
>>Kris wrote: oh! oh! I have LOTS of navy.. AND cranberry.. in the same
>fabric..
>>> *plotting a new scheme* Maybe I'll do THAT for my It.Ren, and use the
light
>>> one for.. something else down the road..
>>           Either would be good.  Green too (everyone break into a round
>of "Greensleeves" ;-) 
<snip>
>which to choose.  I'm getting excited about doing my first Italian Ren
>outfit, too, and will attempt more authenticity than I ever have before.  I
>decided on side lacings, too, since, alas, I have no 'tiring maid, nor
>beloved who might aid me to lace otherwise.  -- Gra/inne

I thought about doing it more authentic, but then I discovered that I
lost/used/gave away a great dea of my navy fabric. 3 metres of 45" isn't
enough.. *sigh*
So... yesterday I was in a fabric store & discovered gorgeous silk.. at
$35/m...
Something I want, but cannot afford.
Then.. today, I discovered some poly suiting that drapes and feels quite
similar to the silk.. in the clearance section. So I bought it all! It's
mottled black and burgundy, so I'm going to trim it in black and gold and
pretend that there was a great accident in the Laundry, and my rich cousin
gave the gown to me.. *grin*
It's a plausible story :]

I also found some *bright* kelly green linen fabric.. in the clearance
section..
I'm pondering what to make out of it. I think there's 3 metres of 60" fabric..
Any ideas? It's not my best color, so it has to be a style with lots of
trim near my face :]

Kris
plotting yet another new scheme :]

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:18:38 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 14:34:03 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: boring clothes
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 05:02 AM 11/09/99 -0500, you wrote:
>     My biggest pet peeve is unmatched plaids!  Current manufacturers seem
>to be visually impaired concerning plaids.  If the plaid in a garment is
>unmatched, it's cheap, IMHO, regardless of what the price tag reads!
>Meg

oh! and stripes!!
when the front & back pieces of a tshirt don't have the striped pattern
matching on the side seams, it looks so awful! :]

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:24:13 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

 "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com> wrote:  
>...I would suggest that you look
at a very simple answer - *strapt* is after all a form of *strapped* and it
might well mean that they were *strapped together in a bundle*. <

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm pretty confident that it's not the 
meaning, because of my experience with many other inventory lists for the 
HBC. It would be highly unusual for the method of packing to be given on an 
inventory list. The inventory for 1776 lists 10 "white strapt" shirts (and 
no other kind), the 1777 inventory gives 10 "white strapt" shirts and 6 
"check strapt" shirts, and the 1778 inventory has 4 "cotton striped" shirts, 
6 "white strapt" shirts, and 2 "check Plain" shirts. 
Thanks, too, for the contact information on Gail Cariou--I'll forward my 
question to her.

Your obliged & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:49:04 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:05:29 -0500
From: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

Thanks for your help!  I'll have to try the instructions and see what happens.

jb

<<<There is a lengthy discussion of fulling here:
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/rialto/felting-msg.html.  It was
a process applied to wool as it came off the loom to compact
the weave by shrinking, make it both more sturdy and more
supple. >>>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 16:50:29 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Info on curator Mimi Vincent wanted
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>



-------- Original Message --------
Subject: re: your other list
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 12:45:01 -0400
From: Peter Zavon <PZavon@compuserve.com>
To: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999 you said to Savoynet, in part

Hi!, 
A friend is trying to locate someone who was active in historic
costume.  He hopes we may know of her whereabouts.

Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@mediaone.net

------------------
>One of the other lists that I'm on, Historic Costume (630 members)...

Interesting.  By chance, do you know if there is a person on that list
named Margaret (Mimi) Vincent?  She was active in the BU Savoyards in
the
early 1970's but when we had our recent reunion, she was among the
missing.
 Her focus was theatrical costuming and, when last I saw her (in the
early
80's) she was a curator at the Georgetown Costume Museum in
Philadelphia.

We are a bit concerned because someone got the impression she had died.


Peter Zavon
Penfield, NY

PZAVON@Compuserve.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 17:32:19 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <007a01befd49$bd6e1260$ef46cfcf@gia-g>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 18:44:54 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

Had to add my story to the list of those who prefer handsewing.
Until very recently I used to sew everything by hand because I was flat out
terrified of sewing machines.
As a girl during WWII my mother worked in a factory, sewing uniform pants
for the troops. When I was growing up she told me the most gory stories
about how she would try to sew so fast she'd sew straight through her
finger, pause, take her little pair of pliers, pull the needle out of her
finger, re-insert it into the machine and go back to work!
It's a wonder I ever managed to pick up a needle of any sort!

Kerrie, the hopelessly traumatised. ;-D

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 17:47:49 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 16:01:57 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dress forms
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
>I am thinking of getting the uniquely you dress form as well.  But from
>Greenberg & Hammer, who lists them in their catalog for about $200 instead
>of $250, except I'm guessing the $250 is canadian, which is probably about
>the same in US currency.....

It's less! The exchange rate in canada is $1.54 canadian to $1 US....
Or.. at least, that's what it is at my bank :]

You could ask them how much they would charge for it in US$, and make your
comparisons that way..

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 17:51:42 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:18:33 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1895 Lancers full levee dress
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

MissMela@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MissMela@aol.com
> 
> I am starting on a 17th or 16th (haven't found the right wool yet) 1895
> Lancer's Full Levee Dress uniform for my husband but am having trouble
> locating the correct hat. I have pictures but do not know who sells them. Any
> help list? 
Miss Mela
>  _______
You could try a company called Military Metalwork  in the Uk. They make
accoutrements, hats, buttons, badges leatherwork etc for repro uniforms
and have currently got an order from the British MOD to make proper
Lancer Caps as made in the 19th century . I use them all the time
email andrew@militarymetal.free-online.co.ukleave this mailing list,
send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 18:08:45 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 19:21:34 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Info on curator Mimi Vincent wanted
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

I had lunch with Margaret Vincent at the Connecticut Historical Society in 
June. I met her in the late '80s at Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts 
(MESDA) in Winston-Salem, North Carolina. Please email me offline and I can 
give you her telephone number if you think this is the person you are looking 
for.

Sally 

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 18:17:55 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 19:30:51 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk question
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

In a message dated 9/12/99 12:35:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
HighlndLss@aol.com writes:

<< silk would not be something used for chemises, except 
 for a very wealthy women. >>
18th c. chemises/shifts were generally linen. More wealthy women used a fine, 
bleached white linen while lower sorts wore osnaburg or a coarser unbleached 
linen.

They saved the more expensive silk for outwear for all to see! Perhaps a fine 
neck handkerchief would work with your fabric? 


Sally

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com

(who spent "de-lurking day" at Library of Congress reading 1770 PA. Gazette. 
Thank you Penny for giving me the day off the computer! Want me to post a 
great merchant ad from John Smith of Philadelphia?) 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 19:02:40 1999
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From: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Los Angeles
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:12:29 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

<< We're also looking forward to moving to Los Angeles later this year,
because
we'll be able to wear our favorite things more!

Kels >>


>Let us know when and exactly where you move. Then we can point out all the
>good shopping places! Mela

Sounds great!  I really am looking forward to it...so much to do before we
get there....  <sigh>

Found The Zoot suit pattern and the Shakespeare one today!  My DH has wanted
a Zoot for years.

Kels

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 19:04:05 1999
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: 17th century
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:15:22 +1000
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-Poster: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>

And another :

English Civil War - London Trayned Bandes 1642.

Pike and Musket Soc. of NSW (Australia)
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Forum/8500/index.htm

(our unofficial motto is that we take our reenactment seriously and
ourselves not seriously at all)

Glenda Robynsone
(Wyf of the Wytchefynder General, who has his retracting pin on order!)

-----Original Message-----
From: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sunday, 12 September 1999 12:36
Subject: H-COST: Re: 17th century


>> >To Jill of ECWS: I'm thrilled to hear that there *is* another 17th
century
>> >enthusiast on the list. It's always seemed as though I was the only one!
>> >Kate Bunting
>> >King's Lifeguard of Foote/ Captaine Generalls Musick, Sealed Knot
>> --------
>> Jill and Kate,
>> I do 17th c. (Cavalier Association, Columbus Ohio, US). We do ECW in the
US
>> and American colonial 17th century.  This summer, went to the muster at
>> Salem Village 1630. If I ever get to the UK again (last trip was 1984),
>> I'd love to attend some ECW and other events!
>>
>> Marsha Hamilton
>>
>And here are even more ;-) !I belong to an English-/German cooperative
>group that does French and English baroque in the 17th century.
>We want to focus on civilian events but there is also a regiment being
>built up, the
>"Kirke`s Lambs".
>We`re just starting out, if you`d like to know more about the group,
>visit
>http://www.kipar.org, there are some pics and information about 17th
>century dress up as well.
>
>Many greetings,
>Diana
>
>

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From: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:21:17 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

>
>"Kels" mentioned looking for the Simplicity zoot suit pattern; I've gone to
>check it out and don't think much of it. The jacket isn't right, except
that
>it's long, and it might look okay for a stage costume but I don't think it
>would pass muster for real wear. A man's jacket really has to be tailored,
I
>guess. The pants looked okay but not great -- better than anything else,
>though.
>
>Gail Finke

I =do= intend to do modifications to it, but it's a lot faster for me than
drafting it up from scratch!  And if anyone else has seen any other patterns
for them, let me know.  This is the first one I've found.  I frequently use
a pattern that's got some lines I can use and go from there, with sketches
of what I want it to end up as.

Kels

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 19:20:26 1999
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From: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 17:31:20 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

>I was the assistant designer of "Zoot Suit"  when it premiered at the Mark
>Taper Forum in Los Angeles.  All of the suits were constructed in the shop
by
>professional tailors.  I haven't seen the pattern but I can tell you that
the
>waists have to be cut high to the middle of the rib cage at least with
front
>pleats, very full through the legs and then quickly pegged at the bottom,
>then cuffed.  The coat is very broad through the shoulders (big tailoring
>shoulder pads or even two) and the hem of the coat is fingertip length.
The
>lapels are wide.  There has to be pad stitching, canvas, roll tape, the
>works, and you need to make your own canvas fronts due to the length.  I
>imaging you can alter the Simplicity pattern to do all of these things if
you
>know how to tailor.  Cheryl Odom
> _________________________________________________________________

Great, Cheryl!  Do you have any pictures of the production?  Or places to go
for good reference?  Those adjustments are all ones I'm planning, and I've
been wanting to try my hand at traditional tailoring for awhile, and since
this isn't something with a deadline, it should be fun.  What sort of
fabrics were these done in?

I need to dig out some of my photos and set up a website...

Kels

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 20:16:07 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: traumatized stories
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 18:36:29 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



One of my friends accidentally sewed a teddy bear head to her thumb in 7th
grade home-ec.  She has been terrified of sewing machines ever since and
just recently commented that she should get over it. She is about 35 years
old now.  These things happen.
  Michelle
>-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
>
>Had to add my story to the list of those who prefer handsewing.
>Until very recently I used to sew everything by hand because I was flat out
>terrified of sewing machines.
>As a girl during WWII my mother worked in a factory, sewing uniform pants
>for the troops. When I was growing up she told me the most gory stories
>about how she would try to sew so fast she'd sew straight through her
>finger, pause, take her little pair of pliers, pull the needle out of her
>finger, re-insert it into the machine and go back to work!
>It's a wonder I ever managed to pick up a needle of any sort!
>
>Kerrie, the hopelessly traumatised. ;-D
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "H-Costume" <H-Costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costumers dress/red hair
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:29:01 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_010A_01BEFD65.D4A59C20
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The red hair effect must rub off - even through virtual contact only. =
Over the past year or two my hair has become more and more red. My once =
blond - turned brown ( a very ash brown) hair now has a rather intense =
coppery undertone. Dye does absolutely nothing! Red hair simply does not =
go with wine, plum, or fuchsia - some of my favorite colors! So while =
red hair is in I'm trying desperately to get rid of mine. :)=20

After reading posts from many of you who wear vintage items, vintage =
inspired fashions, and colors or styles which are "out" of =
fashion/season I have just one question -  why do I never meet people =
like you in my "real", as opposed to online, life??? All my friends and =
coworkers are real off the rack at Macys type people. Not that dressing =
like the masses is bad - I just imagine that it would be more fun with =
someone egging me on while I egged them on.

------=_NextPart_000_010A_01BEFD65.D4A59C20
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The red hair effect must rub off - even through =
virtual=20
contact only. Over the past year or two my hair has become more and more =
red. My=20
once blond - turned brown ( a very ash brown) hair now has a rather =
intense=20
coppery undertone. Dye does absolutely nothing! Red hair simply does not =
go with=20
wine, plum, or fuchsia - some of my favorite colors! So while red hair =
is in I'm=20
trying desperately to get rid of mine. :) </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>After reading posts from many of you who wear =
vintage items,=20
vintage inspired fashions, and colors or styles which are "out" of=20
fashion/season&nbsp;I have just one question -  why do I never meet =
people like=20
you in my "real", as opposed to online, life??? All my friends and =
coworkers are=20
real off the rack at Macys type people. Not that dressing like the =
masses is bad=20
- I just imagine that it would be more fun with someone egging me on =
while I=20
egged them on.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_010A_01BEFD65.D4A59C20--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 20:18:08 1999
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From: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <ace71c88.250c1124@aol.com> <008b01befcb6$c408a1a0$3b56accf@e4c2n6> <000901befcb9$4f5b85e0$a353ccd1@ouppc> <00b701befcbc$7210afe0$3b56accf@e4c2n6>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>

> > Whee! Fellow "fireys" (my brother's "pet" name for me, from the
movie
> > Labyrinth) !  I think several of the folks on this list have
mentioned
> > having red hair.  I wonder if there's a link between follicle
pigmentation
> > and a passion for historical costume. <g>

My mother's hair was blond as a baby, red as a child, and then turned
chestnut...I came out a blond who turned dull brown in puberty -
straight to the dye bottle as a 15 year old with my mother's blessing.
I've contemplated becoming a strawberry blond or adding lavender
highlights several times, but always shied away.

I'm still somewhat embryonic as a costumer. I'm spending all my time
perfecting cut and seam finishing, and haven't yet got around to
embellishment. In Real Life, I wear lots and lots of navy blue suits
with increasingly esoteric jewellery. My fellow employees are becoming
tolerant as they slowly learn that I am That Way. At home I wear long
earthtone dresses that hide my avoirdupois, and blond hair down to my
waist.

I'm beginning to suspect that I am a closet hippie hypocrite. Too
bourgeois to forgo making a living, militant towards parochial
medicine and infuriated by a !@#$ government that only mandates 55%
maternity pay.

Eve Harris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 20:24:35 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:36:33 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

> Beth wrote:
> 
> The red hair effect must rub off - even through virtual contact only.
> Over the past year or two my hair has become more and more red. My
> once blond - turned brown ( a very ash brown) hair now has a rather
> intense coppery undertone. Dye does absolutely nothing! Red hair
> simply does not go with wine, plum, or fuchsia - some of my favorite
> colors! So while red hair is in I'm trying desperately to get rid of
> mine. :)

I don't think there is any color I *don't* wear in some form or
another!  I definitely can wear wine, plum & fuchsia...must be my
complexion.  The weird thing in my family is that my husband is almost
exactly one shade off from me in hair & skin color and our children are
the same (all of us very, very fair w/auburn hair) while *both* our
mothers have hair so brown it looks black with olive complexions.

> After reading posts from many of you who wear vintage items, vintage
> inspired fashions, and colors or styles which are "out" of
> fashion/season I have just one question - why do I never meet people
> like you in my "real", as opposed to online, life??? All my friends
> and coworkers are real off the rack at Macys type people. Not that
> dressing like the masses is bad - I just imagine that it would be more
> fun with someone egging me on while I egged them on.

Hmmmm...maybe you aren't hitting the right places after work?

Kat
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

MissMela@aol.com wrote:
>Oh, Penny, one week after I saw you last, I spiral permed all that long
> hair of mine and it's still that way. No more straight hair. My mother says I
> refuse to grow up! Miss Mela

Yes, but it looks lovely that way.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 20:59:48 1999
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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re:what costumers wear/was boring clothes
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 22:12:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

hmm.. interesting thread.

at work i wear fairly conservative black/white/grey, usually pants with
sweaters or jackets, sometimes skirts. NEVER heels.

at home i usually wear cargo pants/t shirts (yes, not exciting i know but
when im puttering around the house/playing with my cats its really best). i
only get creative when i leave the house with current sort of ex-raver
cyberpunk look - lots of black with silver jewelry, but comfortable and with
platform sneakers. purple highlights to the hair will be added soon.

allison

p.s. to the talahassee person looking for the more fashionable clothes -
isnt the web great?





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 21:15:13 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 22:27:57 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/99 11:09:55 PM !!!First Boot!!!, 
kristen.gee@linkpa.com writes:

<< Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
 
 I think that my confusion about sleeves is mostly style-based. I've heard of
 'french sleeves' and  I've seen lots of different things in paintings of
 that time period, but there never seems to be one 'standard sleeve'. Is that
 because there were a lot of different styles? Or were sleeve styles 'trendy'
 and change frequently? That's my issue of confusion.
    I am going to the Pennsylvania RenFaire in Mt. Hope, PA. I am making the
 costume for a high school costume competition (I'm in high school)
            Kristen >>


Kristen,
  In answer to your question (I am unlurking to answer this)  Yes, tied in 
sleeves are VERY correct to use in an Elizabethan.  As for the confusion on 
styles...well, I can certainly understand.  Sleeves varied so much, not only 
from country to country, but from dress to dress.  Sleeves were trendy 
indeed....that's one of the reasons they could be tied in.  One can change 
the look of one's outfit by putting different sleeves on.  There are some 
very general characteristics of nationalities adopting certain sleeve styles, 
like Spain and the numerous styles of hanging over-sleeves they adorned 
themselves with, but that wasn't something that was strictly "done" in Spain. 
 There are so many portraits that have people mixing and matching componants 
of their dress, that you can put just about any style of sleeve with any type 
of dress ( I tought a class on this yesterday)  Sleeves were limited only by 
the imagination and the abilities of the tailors of the time... Go for it!!!!!
      If you can get your hands on _Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd_, you 
will have a perfect reference as to the "styles" of sleeves.  It is located 
in the Chapter titled "In Pursuit of Fashion."  Here Ms. Arnold gives 
descriptions of what the different styles of dress looked like.  Sleeves are 
almost always something that is mentioned as one of the defining componants 
of a type or style. 
      As for a "French sleeve"...the French had a style of sleeve that had a 
very large padded roll at the shoulder (actually a part of the bodice) under 
which fitted, (Elizabeth of Valois by Alonso Sanchez Coello) semi-fitted 
(Armada portrait) sleeves were worn, or the sleeves of the chemise or partlet 
were  shown (Unkown girl aged 21).  In this case, the sleeves of the chemise 
or partlet were usually embroidered.  

hope this helps,

Charles
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/99 6:42:06 AM !!!First Boot!!!, 
carrie@greateralchemy.net writes:

<< So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
 life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
 fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
 --Katharine Whisler >>


In everyday life, I tend to be rather trendy...I love to wear Jeans, but all 
of them (11 pairs) are either Guess or Tommy Hilfiger (latest season).  On 
shirts, I try to buy what ever is mod and in, but I'm less picky on name 
brands.  When I dress up, i usually do the Docker--knit polo type shirt 
thing, or a trendy sports coat over a casual-type shirt.  I detest ties with 
a passion. (Under no circumstances do I ever sew for my mundane dress needs) 
Fabric content is not even something I think about, I mean I bought the mosy 
awesome black rayon (suede look) long sleeve shirt.  I can't wash it, and it 
does not breathe.....but it was so darn cool!!!!!!
I think in historical clothing my tastes mirror, if not out do, those of my 
mundane clothing.  I like to dress like I'm in court (read on display) often, 
though I do have plenty of heat-comfort aware clothing.....(should have seen 
the Greecian at Pennsic, I was glad I was so far from home). Here, fabric 
content is definitely something I think about.

Interesting topic,

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 22:03:12 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:15:52 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/12/99 3:23:38 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
cjcannon@greymists.com writes:

<<  But the problem for me, Cheryl, and I suspect for a lot of
 others who buy patterns is--we don't yet know how to tailor.  >>
I'm  sorry.  I'm new to this list and am not yet aware of all of the various 
levels of skills.  I'm not a professional tailor but have done my share of 
tailoring for period pieces for the theatre.  I would be happy to answer 
questions and help anyway I can.  Cheryl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 22:28:59 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 20:40:32 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: zoot suit pattern
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 11:15 PM 09/12/1999 -0400, you wrote: -Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com
>I'm  sorry.  I'm new to this list and am not yet aware of all of the various 
>levels of skills.  I'm not a professional tailor but have done my share of 
>tailoring for period pieces for the theatre.  I would be happy to answer 
>questions and help anyway I can.  Cheryl
       Thank you very much.  I appreciate and respect all of you who are so
generous with your time, experience and skills. I'm learning something
almost daily--in theory--and storing up things to apply/try with each new
project.  I just think occasionally that those who have the expertise in
any arena need an occasional reminder that not everyone's at their level
yet--and that includes me in my own specialties. :-)  I certainly did not
mean it to be only directed to you...although it was your post to which I
replied.  Again...thank you.  I hope you'll enjoy the list...I surely do.
-- Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 22:33:34 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:45:58 -0700
From: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>
Organization: House Wolfholme
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-Poster: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>

A little late for delurking day, but here goes. We used to have an
eyeleting machine and I'm looking for a replacement. It looked like an
over-grown office stapler. It operated by placing the item to be
eyeleted on the base and pulling down the lever. The little eyelet
holder would then rotate and another eyelet would drop down into the
track waiting for it's turn.
I've been doing an increasing amount of grommeting but punching the
holes  with our rotery hole punch is too hard on my hands. Does anyone
have a solution for either the hole punching or a source for an
affordable eyeleting/grommeting machine. I hope that made sense.


-- 
Freya

Abair ach beag, is abair gu math e.
Say but little, and say it well.
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 03:31:32 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Slashing (was: Thursday, 9/9/99, Extrovert's
  Strike Day)
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Of course, if you take a look at some of the German paintings, and you
>see the slashes from shoulder to waist, I would say that they would have
>*had* to line them in some way. 

Actually there is a portrait of a Spanish lady  with *large* slashes in her
doublet & sleeves (Spanish round sleeves)  They all have an edge of
different colour/fabric - it's hard to tell the copy I have is in B&W.  So
I would say it's an option, just not common.

The picture, I believe, is in the "Costume of the Western World Series -
The Dominace of Spain".

Cheers,
Danielle - the semi-lurker

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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

When I was a kid during WWII my Dad had a factory making duffle bags and
canvas water tanks for the troops in North. Africa.  We had BIG sewing
machines and they had BIG needles - remember that not only were they
industrial but I was very young.  I ran one of those for awhile.  Scared
s-less.  Never again.. I have seen people who got in the way of one of those
and had a needle go through their finger.
I know it is irrationale when you think about present day home sewing
machines but there is no way I will touch one.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: traumatized stories
>Date: Sun, Sep 12, 1999, 6:36 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
>
>One of my friends accidentally sewed a teddy bear head to her thumb in 7th
>grade home-ec.  She has been terrified of sewing machines ever since and
>just recently commented that she should get over it. She is about 35 years
>old now.  These things happen.
>  Michelle
>>-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
>>
>>Had to add my story to the list of those who prefer handsewing.
>>Until very recently I used to sew everything by hand because I was flat
out
>>terrified of sewing machines.
>>As a girl during WWII my mother worked in a factory, sewing uniform pants
>>for the troops. When I was growing up she told me the most gory stories
>>about how she would try to sew so fast she'd sew straight through her
>>finger, pause, take her little pair of pliers, pull the needle out of her
>>finger, re-insert it into the machine and go back to work!
>>It's a wonder I ever managed to pick up a needle of any sort!
>>
>>Kerrie, the hopelessly traumatised. ;-D
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 23:40:13 1999
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From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

I've once again come across the assertion that Elizabeth issued a royal
command that military uniforms have a line of buttons on the sleeves to
prevent soldiers from wiping their noses on their sleeves.  I've seen
this statement several times, but it's never been footnoted to track
back to the original.  Fact or folklore?  If fact, where is it
documented?

Thanks,
--Charlene

--
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 23:45:56 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:40:14 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes/RED HAIR
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Well although my parents thought that I would be a red-head, I proved my
contrary nature a became a deep ash blonde instead. I 'assist' the
brightness of my hair with some lighter blonde color. But I haven't
changed the essential color of my hair, I'm just too darn pale to go with
any other shade (pale grey-blue eyes and translucent white skin- yes, I'm
Northern European, why do you ask?)

Karen
(SPF 3000 is my friend)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 23:45:59 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 23:26:35 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I can't remember where I heard the term right now, late after a long
weekend, but the style is quite common int he early part of Elizabeth's
reign, before the '80's. It is the short sleeve that comes down to
mid-upper arm with a tight 'cuff' and a very full top. It then frequently
has a corrdinating or contasting tight under sleeve which goes down to
the wrist. you can frequently see this on surcoats. hang on a sec and
I'll try to dig up some specific examples........"A Visual History of
Costume" by Jane Ashelford  pg 66 Unknown lady, 1560, pg. 72 Elizabet
Roydon, Lady Golding 1563, pg. 80 Four ladies 1a: London Citizen's Wife
1570. If I was more awake I would dig further, but it just isn't gonna
happen tonight. If you would like more examples, let me know and I'll dig
them up tomorrow.

Karen
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

On Sat, 11 Sep 1999 16:54:05 -0700 (PDT) Margo Anderson
<margo@directcon.net> writes:
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> 
> >The early Elizabethan 'mahoitered' style of sleeve 
> 
> I've never heard this term.  What is a mahoitered sleeve?
> 
> margo
> 
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From: Gothic Splendour <mercury@eagle.ca>
Subject: H-COST: First Elizabethan
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-Poster: Gothic Splendour <mercury@eagle.ca>

Hello all-

I'm putting on a fashion show at a local theatre with a "fashions through
the last millenium" theme.  I have a broad range of periods represented but
would like to add an Elizabethan.  This is one period I've never really
studied much (in terms of costume construction)so I bought the much touted
Simplicity pattern & it seems straight forward enough.  My question is
related to fabric choice & colour co-ordination.

I'm thinking of a combination of crimson & dark aubergine or plum with
silver accents.  I'd like this dress to be fairly authentic, I'm not
entering it in any competitions but I don't like doing all of the work to
have something that is totally off target.  I figure there are several main
pieces to think about: overskirt, underskirt, bodice, sleeves.  Was there
any sort of rule, sleeves match underskirt or bodice matches underskirt...?
Would a lady have worn a crimson dress?  I'll be showing it with
garnet/pearl jewellery so I figured I'd add pearls to the dress somewhere.
Would these colours look strange with cream added in somewhere - maybe the
sleeves?  I read that satin is a good choice for the overskirt, would that
be ok with a brocade underskirt?

I'm looking forward to any ideas that you can offer.


Thanks

Elizabeth

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 12 23:59:57 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:08:52 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tied on sleeves for Elizabethan?
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 5:02:06 AM !!!First Boot!!!, seamstrix@juno.com 
writes:

<< I can't remember where I heard the term right now, late after a long
 weekend, but the style is quite common int he early part of Elizabeth's
 reign, before the '80's. It is the short sleeve that comes down to
 mid-upper arm with a tight 'cuff' and a very full top. It then frequently
 has a corrdinating or contasting tight under sleeve which goes down to
 the wrist. you can frequently see this on surcoats. hang on a sec and
 I'll try to dig up some specific examples >>


Sounds very much like what Janet Arnold points out as Flemish.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 00:20:41 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:33:38 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: First Elizabethan
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 5:06:08 AM !!!First Boot!!!, mercury@eagle.ca 
writes:

<< I'm thinking of a combination of crimson & dark aubergine or plum with
 silver accents.  I'd like this dress to be fairly authentic, I'm not
 entering it in any competitions but I don't like doing all of the work to
 have something that is totally off target.  I figure there are several main
 pieces to think about: overskirt, underskirt, bodice, sleeves.  Was there
 any sort of rule, sleeves match underskirt or bodice matches underskirt...?<<

If you are doing the Simplicty Patern 8881 Elizabethan, here's what I would 
suggest.
It was very common that the bodice matched the overskirt...but that is 
nothing near a "rule."  Sometimes the sleeves could match the underskirt, so 
the idea of doing so is feasible.  There are portraits of Elizabeth with her 
sleeves matching her underskirt. (The Armada)  Another idea would be to make 
the sleeves, bodice, and overskirt match.  I've seen more examples of this.
 

>>Would a lady have worn a crimson dress?  I'll be showing it with
 garnet/pearl jewellery so I figured I'd add pearls to the dress somewhere.
 Would these colours look strange with cream added in somewhere - maybe the
 sleeves?  I read that satin is a good choice for the overskirt, would that
 be ok with a brocade underskirt?<<

Crimson, I think, would be a lovely choice of colour. Yes, they did indeed 
wear that color too....acording to very basic Elizabethan Costuming book 
Crimson (or blood red as I have always equated it with) was fashionably known 
as "sangyn."  Satin was a period fabric, but "our" satins tend to get hot and 
wrinkly.  My initial gut reaction was to do the opposite:  I would put the 
brocade on the outside and the satin on the inside as the 
underskirt...decorated with trim and beading of course!!!  That however is 
just my personal opinion....and opinions are like belly buttons, we've all 
got one.
 
 >>I'm looking forward to any ideas that you can offer.
 
 
 Thanks
 
 Elizabeth
  >>

I wish you the best of luck on this.  Elizabethan costuming is much fun.

Charles
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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990912.235154.-435891.1.seamstrix@juno.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costumer's boring clothes and red hair
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 02:00:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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All this talk of clothes has made me take a long look at my wardrobe.  =
Pathetic comes to mind...my clothes, that is.  I dress boring.  I live =
in South Florida, casual capitol of the country, or so I tell myself.  =
Everything is casual here...work, nightlife, formal occasions.  It's =
horrible.  I used to dress to the nine, always looking polished and =
perfect with the latest trends strategically mixed with classics.  I =
wore rich autumn colors and lovely navies and reds.  Sure I was =
overdressed compared to most people, but I felt good about it.  Now my =
wardrobe consists of jeans, shorts, knit tops and an occasional =
sundress. =20

Well, this discussion has inspired me to change this.  Although I rarely =
sew for myself (always too busy with other people's projects), I will =
make an attempt to spend some time building a new, more exciting =
wardrobe.  I am actually starting to get excited about this idea. =20

As for red hair, mine is a natural golden blonde.  Perfectly straight =
and thick.  I died it red a few months ago, but have decided to go back =
to being a blonde.  I, too, am very pale with slate blue eyes, but feel =
I pulled off the red fairly well.  I am just bored and would like to be =
blonde again.  Incidentally, I rarely burn, even with tan magnifier at =
the beach.  Weird, I know.

As for historical flair, I think that I would like to add a touch of it =
to my new wardrobe.  Not sure how yet, but it certainly is a fresh idea =
I've never even thought about. =20

Thanks to the poster who started this discussion.  I think I am ready =
for a wardrobe change.

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!

------=_NextPart_000_007F_01BEFD8B.B0D6C820
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>All this talk of clothes has made me take a long look at my =
wardrobe.&nbsp;=20
Pathetic comes to mind...my clothes, that is.&nbsp; I dress =
boring.&nbsp; I live=20
in South Florida, casual capitol of the country, or so I tell =
myself.&nbsp;=20
Everything is casual here...work, nightlife, formal occasions.&nbsp; =
It's=20
horrible.&nbsp; I used to dress to the nine, always looking polished and =
perfect=20
with the latest trends strategically mixed with classics.&nbsp; I wore =
rich=20
autumn colors and lovely navies and reds.&nbsp; Sure I was overdressed =
compared=20
to most people, but I felt good about it.&nbsp; Now my wardrobe consists =
of=20
jeans, shorts, knit tops and an occasional sundress.&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Well, this discussion has inspired&nbsp;me to change=20
this.&nbsp;&nbsp;Although I rarely sew for myself (always too busy with =
other=20
people's projects), I will make an attempt to spend some time building a =
new,=20
more exciting wardrobe.&nbsp; I am actually starting to get excited =
about this=20
idea.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>As for red hair, mine is a natural golden blonde.&nbsp; Perfectly =
straight=20
and thick.&nbsp; I died it red a few months ago, but have decided to go =
back to=20
being a blonde.&nbsp; I, too, am very pale with slate blue eyes, but =
feel I=20
pulled off the red fairly well.&nbsp; I am just bored and would like to =
be=20
blonde again.&nbsp; Incidentally, I rarely burn, even with tan magnifier =
at the=20
beach.&nbsp; Weird, I know.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>As for historical flair, I think that I would like to add a touch =
of it to=20
my new wardrobe.&nbsp; Not sure how yet, but it certainly is a fresh =
idea I've=20
never even thought about.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks to the poster who started this discussion.&nbsp; I think I =
am ready=20
for a wardrobe change.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:24:53 +0200
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Pompadour <pompadour@gmx.li>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
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-Poster: Pompadour <pompadour@gmx.li>

--=====================_1057700==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 02:49 AM 9/11/99 , you wrote:
>these?  Or, alternately, happen to have handy the recipes for gum
>arabic/gum tragacanth?   Carol

i think i can tell you about arabicum. there's not much to it: it's just a 
white powder any good chemist's has in stock. you mix it with water until 
it's got the consistency you want; the only watch point is not to let lumps 
develop. it gives a wonderful, all-natural glue that dries as quickly as 
you like it, depending on how thick you make it. i've used it to glue 
drawings on a board for framing, and as contour liner for silk painting - 
wonderful for both. the drawback or andvantage (depending on what you use 
it for) is that it dissolves in water very easily. wash once and it's gone.

salut,
pompadour


Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA
His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)
http://www.marquise.de            webmaster@marquise.de 
--=====================_1057700==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font size=3>At 02:49 AM 9/11/99 , you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>these?&nbsp; Or, alternately, happen to have
handy the recipes for gum<br>
arabic/gum tragacanth?&nbsp;&nbsp; Carol</blockquote><br>
i think i can tell you about arabicum. there's not much to it: it's just
a white powder any good chemist's has in stock. you mix it with water
until it's got the consistency you want; the only watch point is not to
let lumps develop. it gives a wonderful, all-natural glue that dries as
quickly as you like it, depending on how thick you make it. i've used it
to glue drawings on a board for framing, and as contour liner for silk
painting - wonderful for both. the drawback or andvantage (depending on
what you use it for) is that it dissolves in water very easily. wash once
and it's gone.<br>
<br>
salut,<br>
pompadour</font><br>
<br>
<br>
<div>Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA </div>
<div>His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)</div>
<a href="http://www.marquise.de/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>http://www.marquise.de</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
webmaster@marquise.de 
</html>

--=====================_1057700==_.ALT--

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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:48:25 +0200
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Pompadour <pompadour@gmx.li>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
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-Poster: Pompadour <pompadour@gmx.li>

--=====================_1057811==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 09:16 PM 9/11/99 , you wrote:

> > This brings up a good question... I have a great
> > corset that I would *love* to wear more often, but the
> > only one around to help me lace it is my boyfriend who
> > won't do it... any suggestions on how to lace it by
> > yourself?

my corsets are all 17th/18th century... one i've made to lace in front; for 
those that lace in back i've bought satin ribbon 15 ft long so that i can 
easily pull them over my head. however, there's a better method, and i 
could have thought of it earlier as that is similar how i put on my bras: i 
put it on backwards, the shoulder straps un-tied, and thread the laces 
through the holes with a large blunt needle. then i turn the corset round 
and pull the straps tight reaching behind me... well, i guess that latter 
part won't work in a couple year's time anymore... being laced in by 
someone else certainly achieves a closer fit most of the time.
at least i know that front-lacing cosets existed in the 18th-20th century.

salut,
pompadour



Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA
His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)
http://www.marquise.de            webmaster@marquise.de 
--=====================_1057811==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font size=3>At 09:16 PM 9/11/99 , you wrote:<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>&gt; This brings up a good question... I have
a great<br>
&gt; corset that I would *love* to wear more often, but the<br>
&gt; only one around to help me lace it is my boyfriend who<br>
&gt; won't do it... any suggestions on how to lace it by<br>
&gt; yourself?</blockquote><br>
my corsets are all 17th/18th century... one i've made to lace in front;
for those that lace in back i've bought satin ribbon 15 ft long so that i
can easily pull them over my head. however, there's a better method, and
i could have thought of it earlier as that is similar how i put on my
bras: i put it on backwards, the shoulder straps un-tied, and thread the
laces through the holes with a large blunt needle. then i turn the corset
round and pull the straps tight reaching behind me... well, i guess that
latter part won't work in a couple year's time anymore... being laced in
by someone else certainly achieves a closer fit most of the time. <br>
at least i know that front-lacing cosets existed in the 18th-20th
century.<br>
<br>
salut,<br>
pompadour<br>
</font><br>
<br>
<br>
<div>Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA </div>
<div>His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)</div>
<a href="http://www.marquise.de/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>http://www.marquise.de</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
webmaster@marquise.de 
</html>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 02:05:49 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 00:17:50 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re-pinking
In-Reply-To: <4.2.0.58.19990912211712.00b8a400@pop.gmx.de>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:24 PM 09/12/1999 +0200, you wrote:  i think i can tell you about
arabicum. ... <snip> ... the drawback or andvantage (depending on what you
use it for) is that it dissolves in water very easily. wash once and it's
gone.  salut,  pompadour Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA
  His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs.)
http://www.marquise.de            webmaster@marquise.de 
        Mme. de Pompadour, thank you so much for your clear and concise
response.  Your whole signature 'package' makes me think you would be well
worth getting acquainted with. :-)  I have been told that both gums are
from tree saps and as such do not have recipes for preparation, beyond what
you have written--which, I suppose, makes me a bit off a sap, for
wondering, but I truly did not know and am glad I now do, so that I do not
regret having asked.  Again, my thanks.  Carol, aka: Gráinne ingen Domnaill
Ildánaig, in the SCA, Inc. [GiDI, not for nothing...]

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:53:42 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>


On Sun, 12 Sep 1999 21:36:48   R.L. Shep wrote:
>
>-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

 We had BIG sewing
>machines and they had BIG needles - remember that not only were they
>industrial but I was very young.  I ran one of those for awhile.  Scared
>s-less.  Never again.. 

My father used to make historic flags for movies when he was  in his mid-20's living in LA. So HE had a huge sewing maching...the thing must weigh 100lbs, I can't move it, all though it is "portable" there is a place where a handle goes. Once many years ago (before me) someone broke into his office at the company and came through the ceiling...falling onto the machine got so mad they through it out the window on the 4th floor.., all it did was crack the top of the case. It must be cast iron is all I can think. It has normal needles in it, but it can sew anything, hard leather, plastic tarping, rough matte board. lol We've run everything imaginable through it. It's Tan and the foot release goes **!!BANG!!** when you move it, LOL. I'm not traumatized by this machine but I did see a person (who was barrowing it) run the whole side of their pointer finger through it. Sad state of affairs. I perfer to hand sew myself, but not because I'm afraid. I do it because I seem to not be abl!
e to get control of the thing. it's like a wild mustang or something, one spur(push of the peddle) and it goes a million miles a minute, sucking the fabric through with a "chug-chug-chug" noise that's as loud as a vacuume. LOL I hand sew because if I used the machine I would have a mass of fabric sewn together in an incomprehensible pile of straight lines and bunches, with the occassional rip where I tried to wrestle the fabric away fromt he machine.



---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 04:23:02 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <ICG-L@lists.best.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Ranting against fashion idiots
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 19:08:01 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

Okay, okay, that's it, I've had enough...

In a recent TV current affairs show on spring fashion, the designer
applauded hats as a great way to finish off an outfit and look smart. No
&*%$#!! mention of why one wears a hat: protection!

They are all very delighted with thier chic choices of basic black or basic
white. Boring says me, someone ought to buy 'em a box of crayons - a big
box with lotsa colours.

And what the hell is this with women's trousers? They are being made with
flat-fall fronts, you know, the type of button-up flap used mostly in the
17th & 18th centuries and very convenient when you have male plumbing.
Note, MALE plumbing.

Sheesh!

Okay, got it out of my system. See yas.

-C.
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:44:22 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
References: <19990912213746Z70859-19275+35@smtp1.telusplanet.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Angela Gottfred wrote:
> 
> -Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
> 
>  "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com> wrote:
> >...I would suggest that you look
> at a very simple answer - *strapt* is after all a form of *strapped* and it
> might well mean that they were *strapped together in a bundle*. <
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm pretty confident that it's not the
> meaning, because of my experience with many other inventory lists for the
> HBC. It would be highly unusual for the method of packing to be given on an
> inventory list. The inventory for 1776 lists 10 "white strapt" shirts (and
> no other kind), the 1777 inventory gives 10 "white strapt" shirts and 6
> "check strapt" shirts, and the 1778 inventory has 4 "cotton striped" shirts,
> 6 "white strapt" shirts, and 2 "check Plain" shirts.
> Thanks, too, for the contact information on Gail Cariou--I'll forward my
> question to her.
> 
> Your obliged & obedient servant,
> Angela Gottfred
> agottfre@telusplanet.net
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
Just a thought but I can't think of an explanation either. Does the
strapping refer to the reinforcing shoulder bands that are starting to
be used around the late 18thc perhaps they were also called straps?

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 06:04:41 1999
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-Poster: Su Carter <scarter@widomaker.com>

Angela Gottfred said:

Can someone help me untangle this one? On a list of English trading
goods sent to the Hudson's Bay Company's Cumberland House post in 1777
(Rich 1:362-363), I found the following items of clothing: "Shirts white
strapt/Shirts check strapt" For the same post in 1778, there are "Shirts
cotton striped/Shirts white Strapt/Shirts check Plain" 
In both lists, the "white strapt" shirts are the most common. I haven't
a clue what they are, though. I've seen shirts and other items of
clothing on many inventory lists for the 1774-1821 period and most of
them make sense, but this has me stumped. The editor of another journal
of an HBC post c. 1790 interpreted "Shirts SS" as "shoulder strap"
shirts, which I'd never heard of. (I figured it probably meant swanskin
shirts--which I'd seen elsewhere--until now.) Any suggestions are
welcome.
-----------------------------------
Angela,

I've been mulling this one over. I'm certainly no expert on shirts but I
do know that the extra piece set on the shoulder line shows up somewhere
in the 18c. I'd call it a strap but would they? I've checked
_Workwoman's Guide_ (1838) and she certainly does. That reminded me of
_Instructions for Cutting out Apparel for the Poor_ (1789) and there
they are again. I'm under the impression they're being used in the 1770s
in the colonies but I'll ask around.

My hunch is that you're looking at a transition period between strapt
and not, where some people (younger? more up-to-date?) assume them and
others (older? more traditional?) don't. If you can check earlier
inventories it might be interesting to see how early the 'strapt' shows
up. Or, does it disappear later? Or is it a French/English difference?
Maybe the French don't use them or always did. 

Good hunting,
Su
_
Su Carter
scarter@widomaker.com
Williamsburg, Virginia
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 06:36:43 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 07:50:07 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ranting against fashion idiots
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/13/1999 5:25:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:

<< And what the hell is this with women's trousers? They are being made with
 flat-fall fronts, you know, the type of button-up flap used mostly in the
 17th & 18th centuries and very convenient when you have male plumbing.
 Note, MALE plumbing.
  >>

Now I'm miffed! Back after I finished working on "Interview with the Vamp." I 
adapted some patterns for sale in a friends custom design shop. Pants & 
jodhpurs for women with half fall fronts! Not one sold. I gave them to my 
cousins for Christmas. One lives in London & one in Geneva. They get raves 
about them all the time, so I'm told, but over here on this side of the 
pond....couldn't sell 'em!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 07:38:42 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: uniquely you
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



What Margo said. I got mine a couple of years ago from Joann Fabrics for $99. 
The sale price might have gone up since then, but it's definitely less than 
$200. And the customer service is very good -- obviously those things don't 
fit every body exactly, and they will tell you how to pad yours (they're 
skinny) to get the right shape , if you call.

Gail Finke
still working on padding mine 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 07:39:17 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: zoot suit pants
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Cheryl:

Wow, someone who knows how to do this!

My husband needs some "zootish" (how's that for a word) pants for 
mid-October. He has some wide-topped pegged pants from a store, but they are 
not good enough. I was thinking of using the Simplicity pattern to make him 
some (the jacket is just beyond me; that's what I was trying to say in my 
pattern review -- it definitely needs all the things you said). My question 
is . . . I have never made anything for a man that wasn't medieval, and I've 
never sewn trousers at all. I have done all kinds of tricky shapes and 
gussets, drafted myself, for medieval clothes -- but I am sort of cowed by a 
men's commercial pattern (with a zipper!) that I might have to alter. This 
will definitely be a costume, but it needs to look pretty "real" to people 
who are used to seeing real suit pants, and it will be seen close up. Anyway, 
are men's pants difficult for someone who can follow a pattern? Or are they 
hard?

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 07:44:05 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 06:00:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costumer's boring clothes and red hair
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Gee... I thought all costumers had flamboyant
wardrobes!  I had to go out and buy jeans and t-shirts
after a co-worker suggested I "tone down" my wardrobe
a bit... lots of poet shirts and princess dresses...
all made by me, of course. ;-)

> 
Hmmmmmm... I think I missed the beginning of the "red"
conversation... I have had red "hair from a bottle"
since I was 13... different shades and intensities...
I am naturally blonde and I found that being young in
the professional world and female, the blonde didn't
help me at all... so, I died my hair... (I'm the
manager of an accounts receivable department at the
age of 21)... I burn like all heck... 15 minutes and I
am in pain for a week!  I once got 2nd degree burns
from falling asleep on the beach and was ill
forever... thus, I wear hats... 

Sarah


> As for red hair, mine is a natural golden blonde. 
> Perfectly straight and thick.  I died it red a few
> months ago, but have decided to go back to being a
> blonde.  I, too, am very pale with slate blue eyes,
> but feel I pulled off the red fairly well.  I am
> just bored and would like to be blonde again. 
> Incidentally, I rarely burn, even with tan magnifier
> at the beach.  Weird, I know.
> 

__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 07:50:16 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costumers dress/red hair
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> absolutely nothing! Red hair simply does not go with
> wine, plum, or fuchsia - some of my favorite colors!
> So while red hair is in I'm trying desperately to
> get rid of mine. :) 
> 

Oh, I must disagree here... I wear more wine and plum
colours than any others save black... though my hair
is not the "strawberry blonde" that seems so
popular... more of a very dark coppery colour.

Sarah

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:03:48 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: zoot suit pants
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 6:55:07 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<<  Anyway, 
 are men's pants difficult for someone who can follow a pattern? Or are they 
 hard? >>
My suggestion is that you consult the Vogue, Simplicity, Butterick, etc.  
guides to men's tailoring.  Step by step details on how to do men's flys 
(flies?).  Thats definitely the tricky part.  Remember that in the 40's you 
could still find button flies as well as zippers.  So you have a choice of 
closures.  I have found that the tailoring books usually answer any questions 
that I might have.  Important to use good strong belting in the waistband, 
metal trouser zipper in the fly if that's how you're going.  Hand baste 
zipper before machine.  Be careful matching your stripes into chevrons at 
inseam, if you're using pinstripes.  Suspender buttons, not clip ons, for 
authenticity.  Good luck!  Cheryl
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 06:10:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I think I can understand this... I use and old
industrial sewing machine because I have found I have
far less trouble with it than I do with my brand new
singer... it just handles the materials I work with
better (I use very heavy materials most of the
time)... I have sewn my finger several times,
though... It's amazing what those machines can do!  I
will say that every time I have done this it was due
to my lack of attention... I tend to carry on
conversations while I sew and I like to make eye
contact when I talk, so I tend not to be looking at my
material... (*bad Sarah.... bad, bad*)... All in all I
think if you are careful, you aren't very likely to
hurt yourself... and it saves *tons* of time... of
course, if you are going for the complete authenticity
thing, please by all means, keep hand sewing... I
think people who have the patience to hand sew things
are wonderful... I for one am not that person!

Sarah

--- Vince Lyons <vjlyons@snip.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
> 
> Had to add my story to the list of those who prefer
> handsewing.
> Until very recently I used to sew everything by hand
> because I was flat out
> terrified of sewing machines.
> As a girl during WWII my mother worked in a factory,
> sewing uniform pants
> for the troops. When I was growing up she told me
> the most gory stories
> about how she would try to sew so fast she'd sew
> straight through her
> finger, pause, take her little pair of pliers, pull
> the needle out of her
> finger, re-insert it into the machine and go back to
> work!
> It's a wonder I ever managed to pick up a needle of
> any sort!
> 
> Kerrie, the hopelessly traumatised. ;-D
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 07:57:48 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 06:13:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Lacing w/o a maid:
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Thank you all for your advice!  I shall try... my
biggest problem has always been that my corsets trim a
good 7 or 8 inches off of my bust, which is tough to
achieve by one's self... I do like the door handle
approach as well as the others.  Thanks bunches!

Sarah



> 
> > > This brings up a good question... I have a great
> > > corset that I would *love* to wear more often,
> but the
> > > only one around to help me lace it is my
> boyfriend who
> > > won't do it... any suggestions on how to lace it
> by
> > > yourself?
> 
> my corsets are all 17th/18th century... one i've
> made to lace in front; for 
> those that lace in back i've bought satin ribbon 15
> ft long so that i can 
> easily pull them over my head. however, there's a
> better method, and i 
> could have thought of it earlier as that is similar
> how i put on my bras: i 
> put it on backwards, the shoulder straps un-tied,
> and thread the laces 
> through the holes with a large blunt needle. then i
> turn the corset round 
> and pull the straps tight reaching behind me...
> well, i guess that latter 
> part won't work in a couple year's time anymore...
> being laced in by 
> someone else certainly achieves a closer fit most of
> the time.
> at least i know that front-lacing cosets existed in
> the 18th-20th century.
> 
> salut,
> pompadour
> 
> 
> 
> Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA
> His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks
> (Mrs)
> http://www.marquise.de           
> webmaster@marquise.de 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 08:17:19 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:27:10 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: First Elizabethan
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: Gothic Splendour <mercury@eagle.ca>
>
>I'm putting on a fashion show at a local theatre with a "fashions through
>the last millenium" theme.  I have a broad range of periods represented but
>would like to add an Elizabethan.<...>  I'd like this dress to be fairly
>authentic, I'm not
>entering it in any competitions but I don't like doing all of the work to
>have something that is totally off target.

Though I think your concerns about color choices have been addressed, I
would like to respectfully suggest some other things you might want to do
if you'd like this to be fairly authentic.  I don't have the pattern
(because I make my own), but I looked it up on the Simplicity website
because I remembered seeing it and wondering where they got the style.  It
is something of a mixture, with large flared sleeves from early in the
century and a skirt gathered/pleated at the top from later in the century
and a neckline from the next century.  If you'd like to do a style from,
say, the 1540s, you could use the sleeves (though the undersleeves need to
be bigger--check out some of the early portraits of Elizabeth as princess).
If you'd like to do, say 1575, you could use the skirt (adding a bum roll
would help) but would need to make the sleeves in a different style.
Recent discussions have touched on several good options.  For just about
any time in the 16th century, the neckline should be square, not round, and
fairly low.

If you're doing all this, and you're determined about authenticity, you
might as well reshape the bodice (which is probably patterned to be worn
over a bra) so that it's flat in front and bone it so you get the proper
shape.

I hope this doesn't sound like the "authenticity police."  This is my
favorite period!  Feel free to email me if you'd like more specifics.

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 08:31:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:42:50 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Estate Buying
To: costumedc@onelist.com, h-costume@indra.com, vintage@indra.com
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Dear All,

The Washington Post has an interesting 3 page ad in today's edition. "Buying 
-- 6 Days Only -- Instant Cash for All" and then a list of desired items:

Jewelry, watches, coins & precious metals, gem stones, war relics, historical 
documents, stocks & bonds, sterling & silver, guns, old toys, lady's items 
and more".

Big sections on clothes and jewelry.

Anybody in the Washington DC area that wants to sell historic fashion items 
might want to check it out.

To the list: have you seen this kind of ad in your area?

Sally

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 08:39:52 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Helpful Pets
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>




        I have three ferrets, and I do not recommend them as "helpful"
costuming pets.  They are far to fond of tunneling around in the fabric.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990912.235154.-435891.1.seamstrix@juno.com> <008201befdad$38ebce60$e8973018@pbc.adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costumer's boring clothes and red hair
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:03:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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  >Although I rarely sew for myself (always too busy with other people's =
projects), I will make an attempt to spend some time >building a new, =
more exciting wardrobe.  I am actually starting to get excited about =
this idea. =20

  Erica,

  You poor dear, if you ever come to Virginia, we'll go shopping at the =
thrift and vintage stores.  I blend a lot of historic silhouette's with =
modern clothes and come up with whole new looks.  You can add a drop =
waist here or there, a little of Dior's New Look, what ever suits you.  =
I have two sisters in Bradenton Florida, one is a dresser.  Where do you =
live? She too, loves to hit the thrift stores and change her "looks". =
Last time I saw her she was mixing Victorian with modern clothing.  My =
other sister is always dressed up and matched to a tee.  My son recently =
went to visit my sisters and came back with a "new look".  They took him =
shopping all the time.  I guess being able to "make do" with what you =
have comes naturally to us.  I have four sisters and we swapped clothes =
all the time.  So it looked like we had a lot of clothes, but we really =
didn't.  Now, I am a clothes horse, with two bulging closets. I never =
get rid of anything.  I have one black dress that I can create twenty =
different looks with. =20

  It is hard when your creativity gets stale.  Watch "Style" cable =
channel and their old runway shows.  I pick up bits and pieces of =
fashion ideas from them.  I have heard that a lot of people living in =
Florida have fashion problems because of the year round warm weather.  =
Think about this... I love to watch the "Golden Girls" reruns.  Not that =
the show was that great, but the costume designer did a great job of =
creating the four different styles for four women in a Florida =
environment.  The same is true for the show "Designing Women" set in =
Atlanta, another warm city. =20

  Personal style changes as you change.  How you feel about yourself is =
reflected in fashion from the clothes you wear, to your home, and  your =
car.  Compare the style of clothes you wore as a teenager to your =
present style.  Think about you felt about yourself at each time.  We =
all float back and forth from being conservative to being bold in =
fashion. =20

  A pet peeve of mine is to see the big name designers on television.  =
Their look is so depressing.  They create these wonderful designs but =
the designers seem to all dress in black jackets.  Gee, if you create a =
new look for the world have confidence enough to wear some of it.=20

  If any of you are interested, there is a new email list on onelist =
called RUNWAY.  It is run by a reporter who is in NYC this week for =
fashion week.   He is reporting to the list all day long about what he =
is seeing on the runways.  All you need to do is go to www.onelist.com =
and sign up to the RUNWAY list.  I read his first report this morning, =
it is pretty good.=20

  There is also another wonderful list at onelist called Wearableart.  =
The lady who runs this keeps up with current fashion and places articles =
and fashion links on the list.  She also scans newspapers and magazines, =
and gives trend reports.  There is not a whole lot of talk about =
wearable art but this sector of our industry is the cutting edge.  So =
they keep up with all the latest fashions.  =20

  Catch you all later... Penny
  *********************************
  Deadline for the Online Costume Ball is Sept. 21, =
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm




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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>
  <DIV>&gt;Although I rarely sew for myself (always too busy with other =
people's=20
  projects), I will make an attempt to spend some time &gt;building a =
new, more=20
  exciting wardrobe.&nbsp; I am actually starting to get excited about =
this=20
  idea.&nbsp; </DIV></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Erica,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>You poor dear, if you ever come to Virginia, we'll =
go=20
  shopping at the thrift and vintage stores.&nbsp; I blend a lot of =
historic=20
  silhouette's with modern clothes and come up with whole new =
looks.&nbsp; You=20
  can add a drop waist here or there, a little of Dior's New Look, what =
ever=20
  suits you.&nbsp; I have&nbsp;two sisters in Bradenton =
Florida,&nbsp;one is a=20
  dresser.&nbsp; Where do you live?&nbsp;She too, loves to hit the =
thrift stores=20
  and change her "looks". Last time I saw her she was mixing Victorian =
with=20
  modern clothing.&nbsp; My other sister is always dressed up and =
matched to a=20
  tee.&nbsp; My son recently went to visit my sisters and came back with =

  a&nbsp;"new look".&nbsp; They took him shopping all the time.&nbsp; I =
guess=20
  being able to "make do" with what you have comes naturally to =
us.&nbsp; I have=20
  four sisters and we swapped clothes all the time.&nbsp; So it looked =
like we=20
  had a lot of clothes, but we really didn't.&nbsp; Now, I am a clothes =
horse,=20
  with two bulging closets.&nbsp;I never get rid of anything.&nbsp; I =
have one=20
  black dress that I can create twenty different looks with.&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>It is hard when your creativity gets stale.&nbsp; =
Watch=20
  "Style" cable channel and their old runway shows.&nbsp; I pick up bits =
and=20
  pieces of fashion ideas from them.&nbsp; I have heard that a lot of =
people=20
  living in Florida have fashion problems because of the year round warm =

  weather.&nbsp; Think about this... I love to watch the "Golden Girls"=20
  reruns.&nbsp; Not that the show was that great, but the costume =
designer did a=20
  great job of&nbsp;creating the four different styles for four women in =
a=20
  Florida environment.&nbsp; The same is true for the show "Designing =
Women" set=20
  in Atlanta, another warm city.&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Personal style changes as you =
change.&nbsp;&nbsp;How you=20
  feel about yourself&nbsp;is reflected in fashion from the clothes you =
wear, to=20
  your home, and&nbsp; your car.&nbsp;&nbsp;Compare the style of clothes =
you=20
  wore as a teenager to your present style.&nbsp; Think about you felt =
about=20
  yourself at each time.&nbsp; We all float back and forth from being=20
  conservative to being bold in fashion.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>A pet peeve of mine is to see the big name =
designers on=20
  television.&nbsp; Their look is so depressing.&nbsp; They create these =

  wonderful designs but the designers seem to all dress in black =
jackets.&nbsp;=20
  Gee, if you create a new look for the world have confidence enough to =
wear=20
  some of it.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>If any of you are interested, there is a new email =
list on=20
  onelist called RUNWAY.&nbsp; It is run by a reporter who is in NYC =
this week=20
  for fashion week.&nbsp;&nbsp; He is reporting to the list all day long =

  about&nbsp;what&nbsp;he is seeing on the runways.&nbsp; All you need =
to do is=20
  go to <A href=3D"http://www.onelist.com">www.onelist.com</A> and sign =
up to the=20
  RUNWAY list.&nbsp; I&nbsp;read his first report this morning, it is =
pretty=20
  good.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>There is also another wonderful list at onelist =
called=20
  Wearableart.&nbsp; The lady who runs this keeps up with current =
fashion and=20
  places articles and fashion links on the list.&nbsp; She also scans =
newspapers=20
  and magazines, and gives trend reports.&nbsp; There is not a whole lot =
of talk=20
  about wearable art but&nbsp;this sector of our industry&nbsp;is the =
cutting=20
  edge.&nbsp; So they keep up with all the latest fashions.=20
  &nbsp;</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Catch you all later... Penny</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>*********************************</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Deadline for the Online Costume Ball is Sept. 21, =
<A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm">http://=
www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm</A></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 08:58:53 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: ICG-L@lists.best.com, h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:55:08 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ranting against fashion idiots
Message-ID: <19990913.090428.-312811.0.seamstrix@juno.com>
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Well, I don't know about fashion idiots, but I did find something for
sale at Marshall Field's (big, expensive department store in Chicago,
like Harrod's) that I never thought I would see. You know how they say
that all fashion will come back at some point? There were a few styles
that I thought were long gone into the Middle Ages. Wrong. I found an
early medieval hood on sale in the juniors department. It had a hood and
attached capelet, no liripipe. I almost burst out laughing. It was for
sale right along with all the trendy teeny-bopper clothing. Was this a
fluke or has medieval really come back as a fashion influence with teens?

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 09:26:39 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Medieval Teens
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


Yes, it really has come back... I have been attacked
by my three younger sisters who are still in high
school begging me to make them "ren" clothes for
school...  Corsets, bodices, pouffy sleeves, slashed
sleeves... they love it!  Of course, it still looks a
little silly with the "Kool-Aid hair" that seems to be
sticking around among the high schoolers...

Sarah

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 09:50:33 1999
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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990913144230.4174.rocketmail@web805.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Teens
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:01:12 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BEFDD7.4AAE85A0
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<<Yes, it really has come back... I have been attacked
by my three younger sisters who are still in high
school begging me to make them "ren" clothes for
school...  Corsets, bodices, pouffy sleeves, slashed
sleeves... they love it!  >>

I agree.  But it's not just "ren" clothes.  You should see the prom =
orders I get...Titanic, Elizabethan, Restoration and of course, =
Renaissance.  Not accurate, but having that flair.  If you can find an =
older simplicity catalog, you can see what they pushed for prom....some =
were actually "costumes".  I don't know what they wear at school, but =
with all these historical movies (Titanic, Ever After, Shakespeare in =
Love, etc.), there is definitely a sudden interest in historical attire. =
=20

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&lt;&lt;Yes, it really has come back... I have been=20
attacked<BR>by my three younger sisters who are still in high<BR>school =
begging=20
me to make them "ren" clothes for<BR>school...&nbsp; Corsets, bodices, =
pouffy=20
sleeves, slashed<BR>sleeves... they love it!&nbsp; &gt;&gt;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I agree.&nbsp; But it's not just "ren" clothes.&nbsp; You should =
see the=20
prom orders I get...Titanic, Elizabethan, Restoration and of course,=20
Renaissance.&nbsp; Not accurate, but having that flair.&nbsp; If you can =
find an=20
older simplicity catalog, you can see what they pushed for prom....some =
were=20
actually "costumes".&nbsp; I don't know what they wear at school, but =
with all=20
these historical movies (Titanic, Ever After, Shakespeare in Love, =
etc.), there=20
is definitely a sudden interest in historical attire.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 10:12:33 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re:what costumers wear/was boring clothes
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:26:26 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Okay, I'm going to date myself here terribly, but what exactly is an
"Ex-raver cyberpunk"?
(I try to keep up with these things, I really do, but this one escapes me)

I have become horribly boring clotheswise since getting married and having
kids.  Plus I hate anything that is "restricting" like tight jeans or
shorts, etc.  I mostly wear jeans, sweats, etc. in the cold months and in
the summer, shorts, tank tops or longer summer dresses.  When I was younger
I spent considerable amounts on clothes, but now I'm lucky I buy clothes
once a year, and then its the cheap stuff at Target or Wal-Mart.  None of
that mall stuff.....I have other things I would rather spend my money on ;)
Since I work at home, I don't have to worry about dressing up in a monkey
suit every day to go to the office (thank God) and I absolutely detest
pantyhose.  I also hate this recent rash of "polyester" that is in all the
stores.  It makes me cringe to even look at it, let alone touch it.  So,
basically I go for comfort rather than style.


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 10:22:29 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:36:12 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C
> -- properly felt was made from unspun wool.

I suspect that fulled wool was in period long before the 14th century.  I'll
try to remember to ask the fulling expert in our Barony.

>       Kristin--So gabardine is a heavily fulled wool?  I don't spin and
> don't know nearly enough about textiles.  I appreciate every bit of help I
> get to learn...thank you in advance. Carol

Gabardine is not a fulled wool but a very fine weave.  My dictionary says that
it is a worsted cotton, wool, or rayon twill cloth.  Don't know what they might
have called it in the 14th century but twill weaves are certainly appropriate
for that time.  Very appropriate in fact.


>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 08:37:38 -0700
From: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>
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-Poster: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>

My hair is naturally red which is now going grey.  Have to decide
about dying (hair) soon.  I have very pale skin and grey/blue eyes. 
My clothing is not only boring, it is pathetic.  Sigh.

Morgan Crawford of Shrewsbury,
aka Marilyn Warren
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:24:36 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I'm thinking of a combination of crimson & dark aubergine or plum with
>silver accents. 

Wow!  True Elizabethan color  audacity!  Sound beautiful. 

  Was there
>any sort of rule, sleeves match underskirt or bodice matches underskirt...?

My research has showed that the bodice almost always matches the overskirt.
the two were considered to be one garment, even when constructed seperately.
The sleeves can mach the bodice, the underskirt, or be a completely
unrelated third color/fabric, because they were considered to be a different
garment.  .  

>Would a lady have worn a crimson dress?  

Yes, of course.  

>Would these colours look strange with cream added in somewhere - maybe the
>sleeves?

Cream would be gorgeous.  

  I read that satin is a good choice for the overskirt, would that
>be ok with a brocade underskirt?

Elizabethan satins tended to be heavier, stiffer, and less shiny than the
stuff we have today.  Silk bridal satin is perfect if you can afford it, but
I recently saw some all-polester stuff at Jo-anne's that was very, very,
close.  
>


Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:26:30 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Rabid sewing machines
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:40:26 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello!

Oh yes, machine running amok - I learned not to lean at all forward when
that happens, not even to pull out the curtains that got sucked in . . . try
picking out a seam that has your t-shirt in it, while you're wearing it.
Not good.

Hand sewing is so much more peaceful, and it's great to take along to
camping events to keep busy.  Sitting with a group who are weaving and
spinning and sewing is a great experience.

As long as my tunic doesn't get sucked into the spinning wheel, of course.

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Gia Gavino-Gattshall <ggavino@serv.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 12, 1999 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question


>
>-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
>
>Hi!
>
>I have the same problem.  When I sew by machine, I tend to go really really
>fast and then have to spend time using my seam ripper...I've been doing
alot
>more sewing by hand and actually *love* it!  Less time with the seam
ripper,
<snip>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:37:11 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:51:37 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello!

One, my mother's, went wild on me (sucked in the curtains, my t shirt in
addition to the material I was working on.  Sheesh) and the tension was
destroyed after that.  She bought a wonderful older machine that I am
forbidden to touch.  The second was a thrift store find, a portable Brother,
that sewed for about two minutes, went THUNK and managed to only sew two
stitches before breaking the thread.  The sewing machine repairman said a
little plastic piece broke.  The cost was horrendous, so I bought a
reconditioned black Singer straight sew, waited for about 6 months until I
could get a decent sewing machine cabinet to put it in (and the warranty
expired in that time).  I found a wonderful cabinet, with an old singer
straight sew in it (bonus).  Brought it home, switched the machines (the
bonus machine looked like it had never been cleaned since it was bought).
The first Singer did exactly the same thing as the Brother.  Thunk, sews two
stitches, breaks the thread.

The bonus machine won't run at all.  By the time I got around to trying it,
I preferred handsewing so much that I refuse to put out any more money to
see what is wrong with it.

Zelda


-----Original Message-----
From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 10, 1999 10:28 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question


>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
>->I have an amazing way with sewing machines - have broken 4 in the last
>year.
>
>   OH dear! How did that happen?
>
<snip>

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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/11/1999 6:19:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@erols.com writes:

<< My red hair comes from a bottle, but I can claim my gray hairs came from
 taking too many historic costume classes and five hour exams!!!! LOL.
 Maybe, Mela's red hair came from teaching historic costume.  No... Mela was
 not my professor, just a wonderful person I met on this list. >>

Oh man, this is an interesting digression. I too, am a redhead! Shall we take 
a count?  

My red hair is from the same source as Penny's, and for the same reason.... 
But I'm still sensing a trend here.  Red hair (Natural or otherwise), passion 
for costuming, hmmm....

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Be not afraid of greatness; some are born great,
some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust 
upon them."
Twelfth-Night, II, v - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:   http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:40:23 1999
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-Poster: Klynscumpy@aol.com

Okay had to respond...another red head here too! And I wear orange all the 
time, and all those odd colors of green that no one else can wear. Mine is 
natural but now enhanced, and oddly I started out with brown eyes but they 
now look a lot more green in my almost middle years. 

I was always struck by all the photographs of Edith Head, always wearing her 
little black (or dark suit) and white blouse, with her hair always pulled 
away from her face, very business-like and practical. I understand why, now. 
Sometines working with color and form so much just tuckers a person out, 
especially when it comes to figuring out something for oneself. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:42:14 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:57:20 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello!

I have problems with thimbles, too.  If I don't take a long break from
sewing, usually a callous builds up and I can sew through 4 layers of heavy
cotton without a thimble, but until then, OW!

Thanks for the advice - I'll be applying some of it very soon.  There's a
pair of "Norse" pants that need finishing soon.

Thank you,
Zelda

-----Original Message-----
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 10, 1999 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question


>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>The Rogue wrote:
>>
><snip>
>> I have an amazing way with sewing machines - have broken 4 in the last
>> year.
>> Even on of the indestructible black Singer straight sew models.  Now I
>> handsew everything, and found that I really like handsewing much more
>> than working with a machine.  This works well with the 20th century
>> Norse costuming I've been doing, but the thought of doing later period
>> clothing worries me.  Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
>> doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.  Especially about handsewing in
>> an authentic manner (if I'm stuck doing it, why not have a little fun
>> with it!!) or materials or methods to avoid.
>
>Well, since I didn't even *have* a sewing machine for the first 6 years
>I was sewing I think I can answer at least part of this! <grin>  I've
>sewn everything from 70's peasant blouses to prairie bonnets to full
>length gowns by hand with no problems (except for thread knotting up on
>me!).  I always use quilting or button thread for handsewing.  I run out
>about a yard and a half, thread it through the needle, double it and
>knot it and if the thread gives me too much trouble I *wax* it (amazing
>what that can do!).  I either fold my seam over and under (so the cut
>edge is covered and sew down the middle of that or I sew a shirt tail
>hem all the way around and then sew the appropriate seams together.  I
>tend to take four - five stitches at a time and I use the thinnest
>needles I can find.  I never, ever use a thimble (which shocked the heck
>out of my grandmothers) but that's because I've yet to find one that
>feels comfortable at *all* (conventional, ring, leather, quilters etc).
>I often do garments completely by hand if time allows (although for
>theatrical sewing I tend to go with the machine for times sake and if
>I'm pressed on my own garments will sew the interior seams by machine
>and just do the finishing by hand).  If you are sewing through a number
>of thickness' of fabric (ex a corset) you may find it easier to use a
>good thimble and bring the needle through and then back one stitch at a
>time.  Of course, the closer and more even the stitches the better.  I
>have used a leather needle on a garment that had one layer of canvas and
>two of cloth because I got tired of bending needles.  The biggest thing
>is to match your needle and thread to the garment material.  If you
>haven't already, you might look into picking up a set of 'craft
>needles'.  They generally contain two curved needles and a glovers
>needle, all of which I've found helpful while handsewing.  My best
>advice is, if it doesn't work the first time...try switching needle or
>thread or both.  Enjoy.  BTW I'm curious...how exactly are you breaking
>the machines?
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 11:52:13 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: "historic costuming" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:07:21 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello;

Another post!  I guess I'm not a lurker anymore!

But still learning, though.  I'm working on a pair of pants (first ever pair
I've made) and the *fly* area closure has me stumped.  I want these to be as
authentic as possible.  My fiancée re-enacts a Scandinavian Viking/
Virangian of the late 10th century or very early 11th.  Would buttons be
appropriate, or would another type of closure be more appropriate?  Would
there be a triangular flap inset somehow?  How about a wide (3 to 4 inches)
waistband with ties?

Would there have been any embellishment on the pants?

Thank you,
Zelda


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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003001befd88$684b56a0$b747fea9@gunsafes>
Subject: Re: H-COST: traumatized stories
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 18:04:11 +0100
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Back in the dawn of time when I first started studying; the whole of the
first three weeks was devoted to machine practise; We were given pieces of
paper like the old fashioned shiny toilet paper which had been printed with
several lines of dots in gradually more intricate patterns; At the end of
each day we had to hand them in ; They were closely inspected, any trace of
blood they all had to be redone. You soon learnt not to put your fingers
anywhere near the nasty bit.
To make matters worse us the foreigners in the class were expected to learn
Italian at the same time , shouting out our verbs and vocabulary over the
din of thirty odd machines. I cant remember much of the language now but
still shout for no apparent reason.
However it was the big unguarded leather skiving machines with their hug
cutting discs that always put the wind up me ; always ready to pull anything
and everything into their dark innards and shred them. I soon became expert
at hand skiving, rather than wake up at nights sweating.
Dave

+++++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
 >
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

> One of my friends accidentally sewed a teddy bear head to her thumb in 7th
> grade home-ec.  She has been terrified of sewing machines ever since and
> just recently commented that she should get over it. She is about 35 years
> old now.  These things happen.
>   Michelle


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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:18:40 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Well, I guess I'll have to chime in on this one too.....red hair also, from
a bottle, BUT I have a long, illustrious family history of redheads, lots of
aunts and uncles with red hair, I just happened to inherit plain old brown
with red highlights.  Fortunately, I have the coloring for it and most
people think it is my normal color. I never liked the color of my hair and
have colored it various colors probably since I was about 18.  I've tried
every color there is (except for blue, pink, green, etc.) and have finally
settled on red which I've had for the last 10 years.

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:15:21 1999
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Message-ID: <1b75acde.250e8e19@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:27:53 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/12/1999 2:38:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
agottfre@telusplanet.net writes:

<< It would be highly unusual for the method of packing to be given on an 
 inventory list. The inventory for 1776 lists 10 "white strapt" shirts (and 
 no other kind), the 1777 inventory gives 10 "white strapt" shirts and 6 
 "check strapt" shirts, and the 1778 inventory has 4 "cotton striped" shirts, 
 6 "white strapt" shirts, and 2 "check Plain" shirts.  >>

Given the context, I'd venture a guess it's referring to stripes of some sort 
in the fabric. The other references being "check" and "plain" etc.

Let us know when you solve the mystery.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If to do were as easy as to know what were good to do,
chapels had been churches, 
and poor men's cottages princes' palaces."
The Merchant of Venice, I, ii - William Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:17:29 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:33:45 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

I do a combination of boring/yuppie/flamboyant.  Depends on the day.  I either
shop at thrift stores or Ross.  I used to shop almost exclusively at
Nordstrom.  Nice store if you can justify the expense.  I go to Ross and buy
lots of $10 dresses for spring.  Stuff I can just throw on and run to work in
in the spring.  In the winter I wear to work a lot of pants and turtlenecks.
I have gotten so bored with my clothes it's awful.  And finding clothes that
fit the way my historical clothing fits has finally convinced me that I need
to sew my modern clothes too.

So, I am taking a small break from my activities and going to just make
clothes for the next month.  Pants that fit, a black velvet circle skirt with
bolero, some retro dresses and aprons, etc...  I do love clothes that have
flair and just got a great winter coat, black wook, with a long peplum (almost
to the knees) with a faux fur collar and cuffs.  I *love* it, it kind of has a
Guard from the Wizard of Oz flair but not as long, sort of russian influenced
I guess.  I love embroidery so have lots of clothes with embroidery (either by
me or not, I'm not particular).  I embellish by hand much of my historial
clothing and intend to start doing more of that in my modern wear.  I've
gained a bit of weight over the past couple years so I don't wear what I did
when I was younger, but that's also because I've discovered I'm more modest
these days.  I cover myself up so my skirts are mostly long and I rarely show
cleavage.

I hate to worry about what I'm going to wear, how I'm going to do my hair,
don't like fussing with makeup unless it's a special occassion.  I think this
year, I need a new makeover though.  So some of that might change.  I wear a
lot of black but discovered color and am working on incorporating more of
that.  Black hair, pale skin, green eyes, so maybe back a little kohl.  I used
to dress kind of goth-punk, lots of black with silver jewelry.  The colors
suit me well so I'm thinking of trying to find a more conservative way to do
this, not so rebellious but definitely not too conservative.

Anyhoo, it's been fascinating reading all this.  I can definitely see the
progression in my own life, as soon as I started historical costuming my
clothes horse needs went there and I've been paying almost no attention at all
to what I look like the other 90% of my life!  *LAUGH*  Pathetic actually.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:24:35 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909110445.WAA16605@net.indra.com> <37DAFF5B.99B68F22@vci.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: wool question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 18:36:58 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Just a matter of interest. Should anuyone get a chance to visit Higher Mill
; Helmshore, Rossendale, Lancashire, still has 18c fulling mill extant as a
museum :
The large bales of wool are supported on slowly rotating beams while being
thumped by huge water driven trip hammers. The whole contraption is built
over the river  and the bales are constantly wetted ;
I think but I am may be completely wrong that it was here that I was told.-
Human urine was collected from the ale houses to soak the wool in prior to
fulling and that the best came from the houses where strong ale
was drunk;
I am trying to remmeber if this is correct or it is a story that I picked up
somewhere completely different; Any ideas?
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
----- Original Message -----

>
> -Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
>
> Forgive me if this has been asked before, I'm fairly new to this list. How
is wool
> fabric fulled?
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:25:41 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:46:43 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Sounds like you are in desperate need of a Viking. They never need oiling
and  they are pretty much unjammable (I once ran over a pin and the pin bent
into a 'w' and was stuck in the throat plate).  I have had mine for years,
passed down from my mother who got an upgrade.
   Michelle

>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>Hello!
>
>One, my mother's, went wild on me (sucked in the curtains, my t shirt in
>addition to the material I was working on.  Sheesh) and the tension was
>destroyed after that.  She bought a wonderful older machine that I am
>forbidden to touch.  The second was a thrift store find, a portable
Brother,
>that sewed for about two minutes, went THUNK and managed to only sew two
>stitches before breaking the thread.  The sewing machine repairman said a
>little plastic piece broke.  The cost was horrendous, so I bought a
>reconditioned black Singer straight sew, waited for about 6 months until I
>could get a decent sewing machine cabinet to put it in (and the warranty
>expired in that time).  I found a wonderful cabinet, with an old singer
>straight sew in it (bonus).  Brought it home, switched the machines (the
>bonus machine looked like it had never been cleaned since it was bought).
>The first Singer did exactly the same thing as the Brother.  Thunk, sews
two
>stitches, breaks the thread.
>
>The bonus machine won't run at all.  By the time I got around to trying it,
>I preferred handsewing so much that I refuse to put out any more money to
>see what is wrong with it.
>
>Zelda
>


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:47:13 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Do I get to play too?
I am not really a costumer - although costumes are a mojor part of my life.
I WAS a redhead.  Now I am a silver and gold head which I augment with *Just
for Men*
I wear  Levi's and often times brightly colored shirts.  I don't know what
*cleavage* has to do with how one dresses - but I don't show any!  Don't
have any!
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes
>Date: Mon, Sep 13, 1999, 10:18 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>
>Well, I guess I'll have to chime in on this one too.....red hair also, from
>a bottle, BUT I have a long, illustrious family history of redheads, lots
of
>aunts and uncles with red hair, I just happened to inherit plain old brown
>with red highlights.  Fortunately, I have the coloring for it and most
>people think it is my normal color. I never liked the color of my hair and
>have colored it various colors probably since I was about 18.  I've tried
>every color there is (except for blue, pink, green, etc.) and have finally
>settled on red which I've had for the last 10 years.
>
>Joan Broneske
>unicorn@softcom.net
>@-->----------------
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:49:15 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: wool question
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I have heard about urine being used to help in the dyeing process but not in
fulling... which does not mean it was not done.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: wool question
>Date: Mon, Sep 13, 1999, 10:36 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>Just a matter of interest. Should anuyone get a chance to visit Higher Mill
>; Helmshore, Rossendale, Lancashire, still has 18c fulling mill extant as a
>museum :
>The large bales of wool are supported on slowly rotating beams while being
>thumped by huge water driven trip hammers. The whole contraption is built
>over the river  and the bales are constantly wetted ;
>I think but I am may be completely wrong that it was here that I was told.-
>Human urine was collected from the ale houses to soak the wool in prior to
>fulling and that the best came from the houses where strong ale
>was drunk;
>I am trying to remmeber if this is correct or it is a story that I picked
up
>somewhere completely different; Any ideas?
>Dave
>L.D.Mundy
>Editor.Heritage Matters
>----- Original Message -----
>
>>
>> -Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
>>
>> Forgive me if this has been asked before, I'm fairly new to this list.
How
>is wool
>> fabric fulled?
>>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:53:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:51:16 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Boring clothes?
In-Reply-To: <v04205515b3fff9e5d116@[205.252.121.168]>
References: <199909110445.WAA16605@net.indra.com>
 <199909110445.WAA16605@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>At 10:45 PM -0600 9/10/99, owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com wrote:
>>So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
>>life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
>>fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

I must say that I dress casual and rather boring most of the time and my
suits are all classic.  I was brought up with the thinking that "it's
better to have a few good quality pieces than lots of cheap ones".
However, when it's "dress-up time" I like to dress with a bit more *flare*.
 I'm 5'10" and can usually carry off stuff that a lot of other people
"can't."  However, I'm a firm believer in natural fibres.

>I want to have good quality clothes that will last for years, especially
>as I'm petite and have a hard time finding clothes that fit me (why do
>they never keep size Small in stock???).

I must say "Where do you live?!"  All I ever find here are smalls.  It
seems most places carry a large stock of sizes 2 to 8 and almost nothing
for the *non-petits*.  It's the bane of my existence - well that and shoes.
 I'm a size 11 1/2 (which doesn't *really* exist) and all I ever see are
sizes 6 to 10.  Grrrr.  I wish the manufactures would realize that we come
in all shapes and sizes.

Woops!  How did I get on that soapbox. <g>

Cheers,
Danielle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:54:10 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:34:09 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for gemstone bead buttons
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I found a 16" strand of Howlite (dyed Lapis) 10mm beads (about 41 beads)
>for $6.83 per strand (If you buy more than 3, there is a proportional
>discount).  They also have a 12mm (34 beads) for $9.82. Their regular
>lapis runs from $14.95 (for 4mm) to $29.95 (for 8mm).

I think I'll preface this with the statement "however I say this I'm sure
it will come out wrong".  Hi, my name is Danielle Nunn-Weinberg and I'm a
gemmologist.  I just wanted to ask you if you realize that Howlite is a
completely different mineral from Lapis Lazuli.  

Howlite is usually dyed a variety of different colours to be used as an
inexpensive substitute for the more expensive stone it it impersinating.
Most Lapis on the market these days is dyed already.  The way to test for
dyed lapis is take a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol.  Rub it on a
non-visible portion of the stone.  If there is any blue on the swab - the
stone is dyed.  Please don't let either of these things detract from your
enjoyment of the stone, it is just meant as information.

Please forgive me if I've offended.

Cheers,
Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, FGA, FCGmA

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:54:13 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I was at a costuming workshop for 1850's work dresses this weekend, and a
woman demonstrated cartridge pleating in a way that I had never seen before.
She held two or three needles at the same time between her thumb and finger,
and stitched the multiple rows all at the same time.  When another
participant said she couldn't get the hang of it, and could she just stitch
the rows seperately, the instructor said no, that wouldn't work.  I (rather
impolitically) said of course it would, I do it all the time, she said
"Well, it might work, but it wouldn't be cartridge pleating!" and that this
was the only historically accurate way to do it.  

Now, I've been reading about, and doing, costume construction for most of my
life and I've never seen such a thing.  Does anybody have any idea where she
got this technique?  Was it really the standard method for the 1850's?  And
does anyone have any priomary evidence that it was done the usual way, one
row of stitches at a time,  in the period?

This same person, BTW,  doesn't think I should be drafting my own patterns.
She wants me to use Past Patterns or some other company's pattern, "because
that way it's historically accurate".  I find it very hard to let her know
that I know what I'm doing without sounding like I'm bragging. She knows I
teach classes in costume of the period, and she's seen my work,  but all she
does is make comments on what's different, such as the fact that I'm wearing
full stays, while she's wearing sensible stays.   I can't figure out if this
is ignorance, jealousy, oblivion, or what, and I really don't know how to
deal with the situation.  Any ideas?

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 12:54:21 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:56:26 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Red hair was (Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress)
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

I have red hair to.  It's mine because I paid for it! <g>  Actually my
natural hair colour is blond but, I look better in orange this way. ;)
It's strange how many people think that the red is my natural colour - I've
got that pale (in my case sallow), almost translucent Celtic skin.

>I can't believe it! Another person whose eyes turned from blue to green. 

I think it's neat that there are other people who's eyes changed colours.
Mine went from violet/purple when I was little to blue/grey when I hit
grade school.  Now they just change colour depending on what I'm wearing
and my mood.  They've been known to anything between emerald green and
silver grey, with lots of shades of blue in between.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:16:10 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 19:29:26 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men
In-Reply-To: <003b01befe0a$734b5f00$03000004@van1282>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <003b01befe0a$734b5f00$03000004@van1282>, The Rogue 
<the_rogue@imag.net> writes
>
>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>Hello;
>
>Another post!  I guess I'm not a lurker anymore!
>
>But still learning, though.  I'm working on a pair of pants (first ever pair
>I've made) and the *fly* area closure has me stumped.  I want these to be as
>authentic as possible.  My fiancée re-enacts a Scandinavian Viking/
>Virangian of the late 10th century or very early 11th.  Would buttons be
>appropriate, or would another type of closure be more appropriate?  Would
>there be a triangular flap inset somehow?  How about a wide (3 to 4 inches)
>waistband with ties?
>
They don't have any kind of fly - trousers of this period are just like 
sweatpants, with a drawstring round the waist.  A fly opening is very 
late - I'm not sure when they come in, but certainly after codpieces go 
out, and the codpiece is still there in the 16th century.

>Would there have been any embellishment on the pants?
>
I don't think so.  Between the bottom of the tunic, which could be 
embroidered or edged with braid, and the top of your boots, there's not 
a whole lot showing to embellish.  If he was wearing hose and braies 
(like shorts tucked into loose stockings) the top of the hose could be 
decorated with a narrow border.

>Thank you,
>Zelda
>
You're welcome - keep posting those questions!

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 19:19:12 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes/RED HAIR
In-Reply-To: <19990912.235154.-435891.1.seamstrix@juno.com>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

Looks like I'm going to have to "come out" as a red-head too - not
carroty, just very deep chestnut.  My skin is much more red-headed than
my hair - SPF3000, or possibly the complete Afghani throw-a-sheet-over-
your-head look!

Jean
>
>-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com
>
>Well although my parents thought that I would be a red-head, I proved my
>contrary nature a became a deep ash blonde instead. I 'assist' the
>brightness of my hair with some lighter blonde color. But I haven't
>changed the essential color of my hair, I'm just too darn pale to go with
>any other shade (pale grey-blue eyes and translucent white skin- yes, I'm
>Northern European, why do you ask?)
>
>Karen
>(SPF 3000 is my friend)
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:44:12 -0600 (MDT)
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From: melanies@skylightopera.com
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: H-COST: First Elizabethan (ps)
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-Poster: melanies@skylightopera.com


Greetings

This is a postscript to my earlier message regarding the Simplicity 
Elizabethan pattern.  I had said that if you wished to do 1540, you 
could use the flared sleeve but forgot to mention that I have not 
seen any examples of tied-on sleeves this early, so you might wish 
to sew it in instead.

Melanie (from work!)



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:35:56 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:44:59 +0000
Subject: Re: Red hair was (Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress)
Message-ID: <19990913.114513.-232099.0.AnnetteAllen@juno.com>
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-Poster: Annette M Allen <annetteallen@juno.com>

Mmmmm.  Maybe red tones and light colored eyes are genetically
related.  (I know, way OT, but I couldn't resist...)  My hair was white
blonde as a child and people assumed my eyes were blue.  My
mother dressed me in pastels.  (Of course, this was the fifties...)

As I grew older and my hair grew darker, I insisted on blonde and 
everyone else kept calling it "strawberry blonde".  I began wearing
jewel tones and people began asking me what color my eyes are.
(I call them Hazel Grey, because they are grey when I am naked in
a cream colored bathroom with no makeup on.)  They range from 
grey to bright blue, blue, green, blue-green, and/or yellow. 
(Apparently,
they turn yellow when I am very angry, according to my husband, who
would be the most likely to know!)

I cannot use ash colors on my hair; it turns green.  I cannot use gold
colors on my hair, it turns red.  Since it is turning silver in some
areas,
I have found a blonde with silver highlights.  It looks very blonde to me
but someone said the other day: "Your hair has a lot of red in it,
doesn't
it?   AARGGHHH!

(Not that I don't like red hair, I have a grandaughter with beautiful 
strawberry blonde hair. <grin>)

-Annette

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:56:26 -0400 Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
writes:
> 
> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I have red hair to.  It's mine because I paid for it! <g>  Actually 
> my
> natural hair colour is blond but, I look better in orange this way. 
> ;)
> It's strange how many people think that the red is my natural colour 
> - I've
> got that pale (in my case sallow), almost translucent Celtic skin.
> 
> >I can't believe it! Another person whose eyes turned from blue to 
> green. 
> 
> I think it's neat that there are other people who's eyes changed 
> colours.
> Mine went from violet/purple when I was little to blue/grey when I 
> hit
> grade school.  Now they just change colour depending on what I'm 
> wearing
> and my mood.  They've been known to anything between emerald green 
> and
> silver grey, with lots of shades of blue in between.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:37:41 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 14:54:27 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe dyeing question
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>


> If its the stuff I think it is that we have in the UK called Nubuck  a very
> thin sliver of real leather stuck to a polymer base and the roughes up to
> give a nap.

The folks at Dexter Shoes (excellent shoes made in Maine) report that
there are many types of "nubuck."  Some of them are entirely of leather;
clearly some, presumably cheaper by other companies, are leather-plus-other-stuff.

--
"It would make sense to do it that way" is a dangerous statement when
pursuing historical accuracy, almost as error prone as "They could do it that
way, therefore they did".           --  Margo Anderson
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:49:34 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tudor/18C stays and shoulder straps
In-Reply-To: <8da8f59a.250c856e@aol.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Another alternative is to use bundles of thin reeds, rather like
broomstraw.  This is the kind of reed that was found in the Pfaltzgrafin's
corset shown in Arnold's Patterns of Fashion.

I've heard that it's very comfortable, very supportive, and breathes well.
I just got some broomstraw myself, and will let people know how it
actually turns out.

Drea

 On Sun, 12 Sep 1999
HighlndLss@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com
> 
> Thank you for the tip about waxing the reed for the stays, that's something 
> that I didn't think of. 
> 
> The stays that I had with the reed was good for a few years, but then the 
> cracking of the reed got to be too much of a problem trying to continually 
> replace. I have since made my stays completely from the spring steel, which, 
> because of my chest-heavy figure is really the strength that I probably 
> needed in the first place. I also found that I was more comfortable making 
> both a front and back lacing pattern. I have a tendency to shift weight a 
> lot. So having the possibility of adjusting both front and back together is 
> really helpful. I adjust the back so that the front will always come 
> completely together when laced. Then I leave the back lacing in place, and at 
> events always use the front for putting the stays on and off. This is so much 
> easier for dressing in the mornings. 
> 
> Thanks for your suggestions,
> Susan K. 
> 42nd HRH & 17th Light Dragoons
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1b75acde.250e8e19@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:04:49 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


>
> In a message dated 9/12/1999 2:38:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> agottfre@telusplanet.net writes:
>
>  It would be highly unusual for the method of packing to be given on an
>  inventory list. The inventory for 1776 lists 10 "white strapt" shirts
(and
>  no other kind), the 1777 inventory gives 10 "white strapt" shirts and 6
>  "check strapt" shirts, and the 1778 inventory has 4 "cotton striped"
shirts,
>  6 "white strapt" shirts, and 2 "check Plain" shirts.
>

This is COMPLETE speculation, based on working-class shirts from nearly a
century and a half later.. but could it possibly refer to a shirt that was
meant to be worn with suspenders?
This guess is based on my father, who was born in Ireland in 1919, and
always referred to his suspenders as "straps".  He kept several decade old
shirts that had either a single little loop of fabric (think of the hang tab
on those yuppie oxford shirts of the 80s, but positioned lower, a bit above
mid-back) or an X in the same spot to hold the suspenders halfway up.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:50:45 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990913174348.GEDF22396.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes-cleavage
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:04:36 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the waist,  as
a result if the trouser being worn on the hips.
the display of cleavage by building workers is an important part of modern
day British culture;
No I am not Joking, however unbelievable
Dave

++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

>
> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
 > I wear  Levi's and often times brightly colored shirts.  I don't know
what
> *cleavage* has to do with how one dresses - but I don't show any!  Don't
> have any!
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:53:42 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
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-Poster: Natekakar@aol.com

I've never seen ANYTHING that suggested that one needed to run the needles 
all at once -- the key is to have the threads come in and out at the same 
vertical point on the fabric,  NOT at the same time!!!!

I'll look in my period construction books, but I usually do a foot of 
stitches on the upper and repeat with the lower.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 13:57:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 14:18:57 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Zelda wrote:
>But still learning, though.  I'm working on a pair of pants (first ever pair
>I've made) and the *fly* area closure has me stumped.  I want these to be as
>authentic as possible.  My fiancée re-enacts a Scandinavian Viking/
>Virangian of the late 10th century or very early 11th.  Would buttons be
>appropriate, or would another type of closure be more appropriate?  Would
>there be a triangular flap inset somehow?  How about a wide (3 to 4 inches)
>waistband with ties?
>
>Would there have been any embellishment on the pants?

The Skjoldehamn trousers (a little bit of which can be seen at 
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/skolde3.html ) are
drawstring
pants with a bit of trim around the bottom cuff, and about six inches up
the outside 
leg.

The Skjodehamn find (consisting of kyrtle, shirt, trousers, shoes (lost?)
and knife handle)
was discovered in 1936 in a bog on the Island of Andøya, in Veserålen in
northern Norway.
It may date to sometime between 1000-1210 (based on Carbon dating although
the style of his 
kyrtle would suggest a later date of 13th-14th c).  There is some debate
about whether he
was Norse or Sami and whether or not that would matter to the style of
clothing.

If you want more information there's an article on this clothing (which
SOMEone left off
his bibliography) Gjessing, G.  "Skjoldehamndrakten, En Senmiddeelaldersk
mannsdrakt" in
Viking v.2 (1938) pp.27-81.  And I'm thinking there's one in a much later
volume of Viking
as well, but I can't find the citation at the moment.  Yes, they are in
Norwegian, but you
get used to that after a while...

Marc
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Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes-cleavage
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 08:04 PM 09/13/1999 +0100, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the waist,  as
>a result if the trouser being worn on the hips.

In the US, we call that look "plumber's butt".  I wouldn't call it an
important part of our culture, though.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 14:06:40 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:20:28 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

Hi, I have a question that probably sounds really stupid to you gus, but I'm curious. Way back when, was most metallic embroidery done with actual metal? and if so, when you guys make authentic costumes do you use actual metal for this or do you use the "silver" & "gold" thread you can buy now?  I've seen several peices in my life which had this wire type embroidery, of course all tarnished and in general in bad shape. Mostly on shoes and purses for some reason. I've read about detail work quite a bit but have never seen anything about metallic embroidery. I was just wondering what they used? was is wire of a smaller gage than beading wire (like they use for jewelry) or what? again I appologize if this is a stupid question. 

---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 14:08:57 1999
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Red Satin Boots
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:16:15 -0400
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

	In the section with high button shoes, I saw red satin lace up shoes
listed in the Amazon Drygoods catalog.  Their question line phone # is
319-322-4138


	Connie Fairchild
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 14:15:33 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909131804.LAA20666@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:29:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> I was at a costuming workshop for 1850's work dresses this weekend, and a
> woman demonstrated cartridge pleating in a way that I had never seen
before.
> She held two or three needles at the same time between her thumb and
finger,
> and stitched the multiple rows all at the same time.  When another
> participant said she couldn't get the hang of it, and could she just
stitch
> the rows seperately, the instructor said no, that wouldn't work.  I
(rather
> impolitically) said of course it would, I do it all the time, she said
> "Well, it might work, but it wouldn't be cartridge pleating!" and that
this
> was the only historically accurate way to do it.
>

That's rediculous.  If you were looking at the finished work, without having
seen the process, how in the world would you even be able to tell if the
stitches had been made using this woman's method or individually?  Even if
she does have an authentic historical source for her methods it's doubtful
that _everyone_ always did it in *exactly* that manner.

>This same person, BTW,  doesn't think I should be drafting my own patterns.
>She wants me to use Past Patterns or some other company's pattern,
>"because
>that way it's historically accurate".  I find it very hard to let her know
>that I know what I'm doing without sounding like I'm bragging. She knows I
>teach classes in costume of the period, and she's seen my work,  but all
she
>does is make comments on what's different, such as the fact that I'm
wearing
>full stays, while she's wearing sensible stays.   I can't figure out if
this
>is ignorance, jealousy, oblivion, or what, and I really don't know how to
>deal with the situation.  Any ideas?

This may be violating my "if you can't say anything nice" policy, but, great
font of psychological wisdom that I am <g>... the poor woman sounds like a
"know it all" who feels threatened by anyone with knowledge in "HER field of
expertise".  The shame is she probably comes off sounding silly to everyone.

Dr. Kerrie Brothers (who is spending much too much time at her desk now, as
evidenced by this sudden increase in posting. ;-) )


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 14:25:02 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <005701befafe$f059b280$22aca0d1@j9g8x8> <00a701befb17$9a02b1c0$36065cc3@herimats> <37DD47B8.4EB97482@thibault.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: UK US leather was Shoe dyeing question long whinge
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:38:58 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Yes; I think the term comes from the process actually used to give the final
appearrance, as opposed to the wire brush system used on turned leather to
produce " normal" suede.
However not being one to lose the oppurtunity to climb on to my favourite
band wagon..-
Our Us members as a whole , and especially those who work in leather would
be appalled at the cost of leather or leather products in this country, as
well as some of the amazingly awful products that we are offered.
The US has lots of cows and they are being killed and eaten in their
millions and leather is a side issue to the production of steaks and burgers
consumed in large quantities by US citizens.
In the UK many people do not eat beef at all, and to many a steak is a
special treat. As a rule our beef is produced for export and is very
expensive. With our recent  problems over mad cow disease there have been
some weeks when no animals have been slaughtered in any given week.  This of
course has led to problems with the supply of leather. Most of our large
shoemakers now have the uppers mass produced in the third world and imported
for making up ( if they say Made in Britain.) or imported completely.
Leather is also imported but it is not an economic process.
To the craftworker or costumer working on a small scale the situation is
almost unworkable. It is actually cheaper to go out and buy a brand new
leather coat, made in the Far East and sold through huge specialist Discount
houses than it would be to buy the leather to make the same thing in this
country. If you could find it that is. With the industry moving abroad , the
usual surplus going to the craftworker has dried up. What there is available
is all chrome tanned with its terrible grey-white colour on the back and cut
edges
Buying fine english produced (oak tanned; if you really want to go overboard
and wait years for delivery) leather for high quality riding boots is no
problem  when the final cost is near to 1000 pounds. Saddlers and harness
makers however  have more difficulty and cost are soaring. I know of two who
are currently travelling to the continent for supplies. For shoemaking a
pair of best leather throughsoles are now well over ten pounds.
About six or seven years ago I ordered over 300 pounds worth of green and
yellow leather from a very well known supplier (in both UK and US) What I
actually received was "skiver" (taken off the back of good leather when
thicknessing) to which a heavy almost eighth of an inch layer of a plastic
like material had been sprayed on. These day I can only imagine that it is
much worse. I know that there  is still a lot of leather that has been "sun
dried" and badly cured in the "Third world" finding its way into craft
shops.
Remember that the final use of leather has to be known before the cureing
process can commence.
When it comes to leather you US citizens are really lucky, next time you buy
some think of us poor Brits.
Dave

+++++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
 >
> The folks at Dexter Shoes (excellent shoes made in Maine) report that
> there are many types of "nubuck."  Some of them are entirely of leather;
> clearly some, presumably cheaper by other companies, are
leather-plus-other-stuff.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 14:37:32 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:51:47 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello

I looked at the pattern - they're a bit different than the pair I worked
from.  The pair loaned to me for reference have a separate calf section that
is tighter than the upper legs - quite a bit tighter, and harder to fit.
Would that type of pants also be appropriate for the waistband/front seam
shown in your pattern?

Wonderful site!  Very helpful and informative!

Zelda
Who has added learning Norwegian to the *to do* list
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 13, 1999 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men


>
>-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
>Zelda wrote:
>>But still learning, though.  I'm working on a pair of pants (first ever
pair
<snip>?
>
>The Skjoldehamn trousers (a little bit of which can be seen at
>http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/skolde3.html ) are
>drawstring
>pants with a bit of trim around the bottom cuff, and about six inches up
>the outside
>leg.
>
>The Skjodehamn find (consisting of kyrtle, shirt, trousers, shoes (lost?)
>and knife handle)
>was discovered in 1936 in a bog on the Island of Andøya, in Veserålen in
>northern Norway.
>It may date to sometime between 1000-1210 (based on Carbon dating although
>the style of his
>kyrtle would suggest a later date of 13th-14th c).  There is some debate
>about whether he
>was Norse or Sami and whether or not that would matter to the style of
>clothing.
>
>If you want more information there's an article on this clothing (which
>SOMEone left off
>his bibliography) Gjessing, G.  "Skjoldehamndrakten, En Senmiddeelaldersk
>mannsdrakt" in
>Viking v.2 (1938) pp.27-81.  And I'm thinking there's one in a much later
>volume of Viking
>as well, but I can't find the citation at the moment.  Yes, they are in
>Norwegian, but you
>get used to that after a while...
>
>Marc
> _________________________________________________________________
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: metallic embroidery
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello,

I have just started looking into this, too.  So far, I have found that the
real metals were actually used, but were spun so finely that they were
usually wrapped around a linen or cotton thread so they could be worked
without constantly breaking.  How far back this method goes, I don't know
yet.  I do have a Matadors jacket from a turn of the century (1900  :)  )
costume company that is covered in metallic thread done in this manner.  I
have seen modern embroidery done on Punjabi tunics with this as well.

Personally, I use the plain DMC gold, silver or copper threads at this
point, simply due to lack of skill at this time.
Zelda


-----Original Message-----
From: Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 13, 1999 12:28 PM
Subject: H-COST: (No Subject)


>
>-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
>
>Hi, I have a question that probably sounds really stupid to you gus, but
I'm curious. Way back when, was most metallic embroidery done with actual
metal? and if so, when you guys make authentic costumes do you use actual
metal for this or do you use the "silver" & "gold" thread you can buy now?
I've seen several peices in my life which had this wire type embroidery, of
course all tarnished and in general in bad shape. Mostly on shoes and purses
for some reason. I've read about detail work quite a bit but have never seen
anything about metallic embroidery. I was just wondering what they used? was
is wire of a smaller gage than beading wire (like they use for jewelry) or
what? again I appologize if this is a stupid question.
>
>---
>Ginnaphure
>
>ICQ# 41340093
>
>"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the
stake."
>
>
>
>Get free e-mail with a women.com membership at http://women.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 14:58:38 -0400
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

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Margo Anderson wrote; ..."the early Elizabethan 'mahoitered' style of
sleeve " -I've never heard this term.  What is a mahoitered sleeve?

"Mahoitre" (That's with a ^ over the "i"): French term denoting large
padded shoulders. Basically comes from the extreme look of the mid
1400's - really huge shoulders on the man's doublet, fur trimmed,
pleated, think Charles VII.

About Margos' cartridge pleating dilemma: I've never heard of such a
thing, but commend someone coordinated enough to handle three needles at
once. I don't understand the logic, and would ask her to show you some
reference material supporting it (in a nice, non challenging way of
course!) But as regards to the instruction to use commercial patterns -
that seems totally contradictory. First of all, they're not made for an
individual's body, and custom fit patters would always be preferred to
"off the shelf". Secondly, most commercial patterns seem to be faulty. I
suppose that this stems from the sales part of the business, or from the
desire not to complicate a mass audience pattern with complicated
techniques or instructions. I blatantly disagree with her, and support
you in your disagreement!

Regards,

Liz Jones

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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909131804.LAA20666@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:04:02 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



>
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
 .  I find it very hard to let her know
> that I know what I'm doing without sounding like I'm bragging. She knows I
> teach classes in costume of the period, and she's seen my work,  but all
she
> does is make comments on what's different, such as the fact that I'm
wearing
> full stays, while she's wearing sensible stays.   I can't figure out if
this
> is ignorance, jealousy, oblivion, or what, and I really don't know how to
> deal with the situation.  Any ideas?
>
 I dont teach anymore, partly as a result of changes to our system as
regards parttime lecturing but also for a very personal reason.
I always had difficulty because of  shyness and when called upon to seem
knowledgable had great difficulty because of self doubt.. Well to tell you
the truth I turned into somebody else , some kind of monster , a sort of
protective shield.. Knowing that there was somebody in the class that might
know something was a big frightener that would have me shaking at the knees
and on one occasion led me to real nervous sickness. After every class I
used to hide in a dark room with a pillow over my head, reliving every
moment , everyword I had said, every comment I had made and turn myself into
a quivering jelly of embarrassment. Theatre studies wasnt so bad , they were
all youngsters, you could tell em anything (ggg). Teaching Hand- shoemaking
to a class made up of supervisor/:managers from shoe factories, plus some
people that had their own shoemaking business or who worked in orthopaedic
shoe departments , was a shortlived nighmare. I finally gave up after a
friend studying teaching technique videotaped my class; I thought about
changing my name or wearing a bag on my head, but settled on Prozac.
So maybe you should just add "------scared" to your list.
Well you asked for any ideas ; this might help.
Dave

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:05:03 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
>
>From: AnnoraK@aol.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Revenge of the Quiet: Meep!/Laughing Moon
>
>Re: Georgia's question about the Laughing Moon corset pattern -- I built my
>first corset last month using this pattern.  I made the Dore Straight Seam
>out of coutil, with an outside layer of moire.  I followed their suggestions
>
>of making a muslin and doing two test fittings.  I had to trim back the
>underarm areas about 1/2" - 3/4", but other than that, it went together
>smoothly and easily, even with feline interference.  But, then I was sorta
>paranoid about screwing the whole thing up, so did everything by the rules,
>tracing out all lines and markings and all the other stuff that I usually
>don't do with the rest of my projects.
>
>One suggestion, though -- trace out the pattern onto butcher paper, if you
>weren't planning to already.
>--
>
>Thanks Jen.
>
>One other question - has anybody made the pattern *with* the gores? I'm very
>busty, and very hourglass, so I'll have to be making that one :-)
>
>Cheers
>Georgia


Yes, I'm busty too - and hippy.  I made the gored corset at Costume College
97 in the class taught by Ms. Laughing Moon, JoAnn Bowser.  It wasn't my
first corset, but the easiest one I've ever made.

The pattern was clear and directions are complete.  JoAnn had made kits for
everyone with everything but the bones included ( a very nice touch - we
were all working with her specified materials and production went easier
for that).  She also managed to have every possible size of her pattern
available in muslin so we spent a bit of time figuring out - with her help
- exactly what size we were and with her suggesting fitting changes ("Maybe
you might want to add some extra in the gore for those extra curves").  I
highly suggest taking her class if ever you can.

I agree with the earlier poster - take the time to do EVERY step EXACTLY
the way the instructions are written.  It will save you time and money in
the long run.

LynnD
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:14:01 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> >In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the waist,  as
> >a result if the trouser being worn on the hips.
> In the US, we call that look "plumber's butt".  I wouldn't call it an
> important part of our culture, though.

Maybe it depends on what part of the US you live in because here in my neck of
the woods we call it T.V. Repairman Pants.

*GGGGG*
Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 16:13:16 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 6:09:08 PM !!!First Boot!!!, margo@directcon.net 
writes:

<< I can't figure out if this
 is ignorance, jealousy, oblivion, or what, and I really don't know how to
 deal with the situation.  Any ideas?
 
 Margo Anderson >>


My guess is none of the above....you probably make her feel threatened and 
unessential. I do not know how "they" cartridge pleated, and actually could 
rather care less.   Personally, I "know" how "I" cartridge pleat, and the 
authenticity of technique thereof is of no consequence.(or very little)   As 
long as what I have created matches what "they" created...why fuss about 
using 2,3,27000 needles at a time.  I think this lady is a bit on the bonkers 
side, but I don't know her.

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:08:48 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:22:31 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: metallic embroidery
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Metallic thread embroidery is quite common in India - even today.  I was in
a factory in south India where they produced this thread.  Gold or silver is
turned into a very thin wire which is wrapped around a cotton or silk thread
core.  This is known as *zari*.
There are 3 basic types: Gold, silver, and silver which has been gilded to
look like gold.  And of course they are valued accordingly.  
There is also a technique knows as *badla* this is actual gold, silver or
gilt wire used for embroidery - i.e. it is not wapped around a core and of
course is more expensive.
Metallic embroidery is used mostly for wedding sarees these days.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: metallic embroidery
>Date: Mon, Sep 13, 1999, 12:59 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>Hello,
>
>I have just started looking into this, too.  So far, I have found that the
>real metals were actually used, but were spun so finely that they were
>usually wrapped around a linen or cotton thread so they could be worked
>without constantly breaking.  How far back this method goes, I don't know
>yet.  I do have a Matadors jacket from a turn of the century (1900  :)  )
>costume company that is covered in metallic thread done in this manner.  I
>have seen modern embroidery done on Punjabi tunics with this as well.
>
>Personally, I use the plain DMC gold, silver or copper threads at this
>point, simply due to lack of skill at this time.
>Zelda
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
>To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: September 13, 1999 12:28 PM
>Subject: H-COST: (No Subject)
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
>>
>>Hi, I have a question that probably sounds really stupid to you gus, but
>I'm curious. Way back when, was most metallic embroidery done with actual
>metal? and if so, when you guys make authentic costumes do you use actual
>metal for this or do you use the "silver" & "gold" thread you can buy now?
>I've seen several peices in my life which had this wire type embroidery, of
>course all tarnished and in general in bad shape. Mostly on shoes and
purses
>for some reason. I've read about detail work quite a bit but have never
seen
>anything about metallic embroidery. I was just wondering what they used?
was
>is wire of a smaller gage than beading wire (like they use for jewelry) or
>what? again I appologize if this is a stupid question.
>>
>>---
>>Ginnaphure
>>
>>ICQ# 41340093
>>
>>"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the
>stake."
>>
>>
>>
>>Get free e-mail with a women.com membership at http://women.com
>> _________________________________________________________________
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>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:11:41 1999
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 <199909101510.JAA13174@email.boisestate.edu>
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:26:35 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

Linda,

Dietmar sent you some very important suggestions on sewing leather.  His
suggestion for seams is how I was taught to work with leather.  HOWEVER, he
didn't mention (and neither did my first teacher) that Barge cement is very
dangerous to use.  Make certain that you're using it outside with the wind
blowing the fumes away from you.  This is the day to send the kids and
animals inside the house for safety.  A rubber mallet is usually the way to
go when pounding the seams.

Lynn

>-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
>Greetings,
>
>Linda wrote:
>
>> I've never sewn on real leather before. I've heard that I need a leather
>> sewing machine needle (this is very supple leather and should go through
>> the machine ok). I've also heard to use longer stitches than I would with
>> woven fabric.
>
>Leather needles are triangular in cross section which helps cut through the
>leather without stretching it. Longer stitches will help make the garment
>stronger. If the stitches are too close together, the stitches can rip out,
>and you'll end up with a perfect pattern in leather minus the seam allowance.
>
>> I'm thinking about using some slashing and pinking to add interest and line
>> it with a bright, contrasting color to show off the slashes. Any suggestions
>> on the slashes?
>
>I've heard of people using a sharp chisel to make quick consistent slashes.
>I've also heard of someone using a drill to make consistent round holes
>through many layered pieces at once. (Although, I'm not sure I'd recommend
>this) I also understand that it's a good idea to punch a round hole at the end
>of long slashes so that the leather is less likely to tear at the ends.
>
>> Should I keep them smaller (1/2 inch or so big) so that the leather won't
>> stretch? Seems to me (the book is at home so I can't reference it now) that
>> the pictures I've seen in Janet Arnold show the pinking and slashing to be
>> fairly small.
>
>Consider that the more holes that you make, the more stretch that you will
>have. This is true whether you have a handful of large slashes or a myriad or
>tiny slashes. In Germany, slashes were often larger than in England, but both
>were done.
>
>> As far as seams go, I was planning to use a modified flat felled seam
>> when sewing leather to leather - sew right sides together, trim one
>> seam allowance to about 1/4 inch, press both seam allowances in the same
>> direction with the longer one on top, then top stitch in place (just like
>> regular flat felled only the raw edge isn't turned under to keep bulk down).
>> Anyone have experience, suggestions on seaming leather?
>
>I'd recommend that you sew the seams and hammer the seams open to either side
>and glue the seam allowance (1/4" or so) down with barge cement.
>
>> For sewing leather to fabric lining, I was planning to just stitch as usual
>> (with longer stitch length). Will this work?
>
>Depends on how you are lining it. Is it a bag lining, or are you lining
>particular areas only? I'm not sure how you would work a bag lining. Sewing
>the lining around each cut out area is the best method, but incredibly
>tedious.
>
>> I assume I don't need to worry about grainline with leather, or do I?
>> I know that with synthetic suede (Ultrasuede), you can turn the pattern
>> pieces anyway you want.
>
>There is no grain line per se, but there are differing amounts of stretch in
>different parts of the hide. Some hides will have stretch marks that run in a
>particular direction. You will also want to work around blemishes in the
>surface of the hide.
>
>> I plan to use three layers: lining, interlining, and leather. Usually
>> when I make a doublet or bodice, I treat the lining and interlining as
>> one unit. Would it be better to use the interlining (which is the layer
>> that will show under the leather) and the leather as one unit instead.
>> Or does it matter?
>
>That seems like an unnecessary number of layers. I see most leather doublets
>as unlined. I can't see a satisfactory way of lining with that many layers,
>because the leather will stretch in different ways than the fabric lining.
>Leather stretches in the heat and shrinks in the cold, but the fabric won't. I
>guess that I'd rather line areas of slashing than try to line the whole thing.
>Perhaps you can make horizontal rows of slashing and sew the lining down with
>a horizontal seam between rows. The slashes don't have to be horizontal, but
>arranged in rows horizontally, such as:
>----------
>//////////
>----------
>Of course, the same thing could be done vertically.
>
>Any other caveats?
>
>I don't know of anything off the top of my head, but I'll think about it over
>the weekend and see if I come up with anything...and see if anyone else
>has input.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Dietmar
>
>
>"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
> over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:17:27 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:33:37 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> My guess is none of the above....you probably make her feel threatened and
> unessential.

I venture to say that just because the instructor felt this way doesn't mean that
Margo (or any other student) makes them fell that way.

Some instructors aren't comfortable with being questioned period.  Two
possibilities are that they either aren't confident about their own knowledge and
couldn't back up their claims and the other is that some folks do have to know it
all.  Whatever the reason it doesn't make her claim accurate.  While some folks
might well have cartidge pleated with three needles all at once, I doubt all
folks in period did.  Preposterous.  I always get a warning ding in my head when
someone says this is how they did it and this is the only way.  I suddenly doubt
either their research or their thinking.  Any seamstress who claims that
purchased patterns are better than personally fitted patterns and that that is
how the way it was done in period doesn't know much I wager.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:18:15 1999
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From: "Jennifer McNitt" <jenmcnitt@excite.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re:   h-costume-digest V4 #567
Message-Id: <937254725.24496.83@excite.com>
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-Poster: "Jennifer McNitt" <jenmcnitt@excite.com>

I recently ordered a Uniquely You dress form from Handcock Fabrics for
around $120.  I paid the full price since there were no sales at the time I
ordered it.  The form was $40-$50 more at JoAnns.

Jen
-------------------
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 13:19:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dress forms

- -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

>I am thinking of getting the uniquely you dress form as well.  But from
>Greenberg & Hammer, who lists them in their catalog for about $200 instead
>of $250, 





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:21:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:42:44 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question about 10th century pants for men
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Zelda Wrote:
>I looked at the pattern - they're a bit different than the pair I worked
>from.  The pair loaned to me for reference have a separate calf section that
>is tighter than the upper legs - quite a bit tighter, and harder to fit.
>Would that type of pants also be appropriate for the waistband/front seam
>shown in your pattern?

It depends on what your ultimate goal is (I'm about to utter heresy here...)
If your goal is to get something reasonably close to accurate, that you can 
learn with, and won't embarrass you as your first attempt in this area, then 
sure, use what you have and see how you might adapt it to make it appear 
similar-ish to the *only* example of which I have heard of trousers from
this period.  Since it's the only example, it can't tell us about other 
styles and fashions anyway.  (Conversely, MOST of the people who will give you
a hard time about it not being absolutely perfect have probably never heard
of these trousers anyway.)

On the other hand, if you want to be *absolutely* accurate, then the examples 
you have in hand might not be the best examples to use (unless they have 
documentation I've not heard of, in which case I want it ASAP :) ).  Moreover,
I'll see about digging out my copy to see if I can tell you anything about
the 
fabric (content, thread count, etc).  AND you'll want to get the article
yourself.

Really, I can't tell you what's appropriate for what you make since I don't
know
exactly where you want to go with it.  All I can tell you is what they pulled 
from the ground (or in this case, swamp).

>Wonderful site!  Very helpful and informative!

Thank you.  I keep hoping to make it and the shoe site better, but "helpful"
get's me past the hard spots :)

>Zelda
>Who has added learning Norwegian to the *to do* list

Go for Swedish first.  It's a much more 'user friendly" kind of language...

Marc
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes-cleavage
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Ah, the joys of linguistics...I've always heard it referred to as
"Workman's Cleft".

Drea

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> > >In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the waist,  as
> > >a result if the trouser being worn on the hips.
> > In the US, we call that look "plumber's butt".  I wouldn't call it an
> > important part of our culture, though.
> 
> Maybe it depends on what part of the US you live in because here in my neck of
> the woods we call it T.V. Repairman Pants.
> 
> *GGGGG*
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Bornover
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:46:24 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 16:58:07 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: metallic embroidery
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

Here's my two cents

During the Rennaissance and before, metallic embroidery not only existed, but 
was very commonly found on items of the wealthy.  There were two ways (two 
ways I know of any how)  of creating the gold thread....Since Gold is 
ductile, it could be drawn into very thin strands....however, if one used 
more than just a small amount (ie, cloth of gold)  It would be very heavy.  
So Gold was welded to silver to form a lighter weight alloy....it was then 
pounded into sheets of gold leif.  It was then cut into very very thin strips 
and enveloped around saffron dyed linned threads and wound on a spool.  This 
technique was called "spun gold" The step by step instructions for spun gold 
can be found in the book On Divers Arts....which is a set of treatises 
written in the Medieval period on various art forms.

Hope this helps

Chas
(unlurking with a vengance)
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 8:33:24 PM !!!First Boot!!!, keltia@serv.net 
writes:

<< I venture to say that just because the instructor felt this way doesn't 
mean that
 Margo (or any other student) makes them fell that way. >>


Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that Margo intentionally made her feel this 
way.  Some people just feel threatened when they  think someone might know as 
much as they do on a certain subject...I certainly didn't mean to imply that 
Margo was doing this intentionally..thank you for drawing that to my 
attention as my wording may have mis communicated what I intended to say.

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:57:38 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: fulling wool
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<I think but I am may be completely wrong that it was here that I was told.-
Human urine was collected from the ale houses to soak the wool in prior to
fulling and that the best came from the houses where strong ale
was drunk;>>

Urine was used in fulling and feltmaking to change the ph of the solution
(since they didn't have detergents), which helps to lift the cuticles on
the fibers and thereby making them latch together more firmly. Animal dung
is used in some areas of the world for the same reason.


Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 15:57:45 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: metallic threads
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<Way back when, was most metallic embroidery done with actual metal?>>

Yes, both silver and gold (and gold-washed silver) was used for metallic
embroidery.

The metal was pounded and folded repeatedly, and then pounded very, very
thin, and cut into narrow strips (called lamella). The narrow strips were
wound evenly around thread (usually dyed silk), so it's not really "spun."
This type was used extensively in the 16, 17 & 18c.

Contrary to popular belief, it was not done with wire (and lamella was not
simply flattened wire).


De borah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 16:16:38 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:56:25 -0700
To: (Recipient list suppressed)
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

    I'm reading several lists at once, among them h-costume and SCA Garb.
I'd just finished reading a post from a lady who was wanted some explicit
help constructing authentic Viking/Verangian Guard-style pants...then I
read another:  Sounds like you are in desperate need of a Viking. They
never need oiling and  they are pretty much unjammable ... <snip> ...
             At which point, I was curled up over my keyboard laughing...
I'm sorry...I had to share that...and as you see--it was not either post,
but my misinterpretation, and all because of the commonality between the
two posts of the word Viking... Carol / Gra/inne, who thinks maybe it's
time to go do something else for a while...
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 16:16:39 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 12:31:00 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:36 AM 09/13/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>Gabardine is not a fulled wool but a very fine weave.  My dictionary says
that
>it is a worsted cotton, wool, or rayon twill cloth.  Don't know what they
might
>have called it in the 14th century but twill weaves are certainly appropriate
>for that time.  Very appropriate in fact.
           Thank you, Merouda.  I was wondering, because I think of fulled
wool as heavy, felted stuff...and the gabardines I've used haven't been,
but that was the term the lady used to me...so I echoed it.  I'm used to
the worsted twill mostly.  Gra/inne / Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 16:25:59 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9909131638340.12538-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes-cleavage
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:47:07 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  "Bad Moon A-rising......" <G>

sorry. <G>
 Liadain

> Ah, the joys of linguistics...I've always heard it referred to as
> "Workman's Cleft".
>
> Drea
>
> On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, Merouda the True of Bornover wrote:
>
> >
> > -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> >
> > > >In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the
waist,  as
> > > >a result if the trouser being worn on the hips.
> > > In the US, we call that look "plumber's butt".  I wouldn't call it an
> > > important part of our culture, though.
> >
> > Maybe it depends on what part of the US you live in because here in my
neck of
> > the woods we call it T.V. Repairman Pants.
> >
> > *GGGGG*
> > Cynthia
> > --
> > Cynthia Long
> > Merouda the True of Bornover
> > Barony of Madrone
> > Kingdom of An Tir
> >
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 16:29:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:44:42 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>
Subject: Re: H-COST:How many list members?
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-Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>

At 01.20 +0100 99-09-09, Penny Ladnier wrote:>
>Are our lurkers introverts????
>
<snip>
>Alright, introverts, stop pausing, and start talking.  Let's make Thursday,
>9/9/99, Extrovert's Strike Day.  We stop talking for ONE day, and let the
>introverts speak!  We are listening now, its your forum!

	<grumble, grumble> So *this* is why I had over 500 mails waiting
for me after I had been away for only 5 days :-)

	Mostly I lurk and learn on this list, though last autumn I were
rather active asking a lot of questions, when trying to make a Tudor
costume for a doll. Presently I mostly send the occasional post about the
non-existing progress on my planned development of the web-page for the
doll costume :-) So far, I've finally got the new pictures into the
computer. Now it only remains to actually write and design the bloody
thing! And since my bad back prevents me from spending too much time in
front of the computer, this will probably take another 6 months. And that
damn back prevents me from doing much sewing either :-(

	Well, that's enough grumbling from me on this topic. Back to my
mail back-log, still another 149 messages to read . . .

/Ninni Pettersson

--------------------------------------------------------------
Ninni M Pettersson -- Stockholm, Sweden -- vidumavi@swipnet.se
Tudor Doll Costume -- http://home9.swipnet.se/~w-93136/doll1.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 16:35:44 1999
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:49:47 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

Thanks to all for the advice. I have a Spanish surcote to make 
before I can start the doublet. In the meantime, I'll do some testing 
on a scrap of the leather.

One suggestion I got came from someone here in town. He said if 
my machine can't handle the leather, to cut out the pieces and 
mark them, then take them to someone he knows that will sew 
them on an industrial machine for a fee.

Thanks again,

Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

My $.02

You can embroider with metals, but you may find you need to handle the threads delicately,
especially the threads that are made completely of metal.

You can also incorporate metal in your designs by "couching" it. You lay the gold wire on the
fabric (which should be strong and firm) and secure the wire to the fabric using overcast
stitches with thread of a similar color or contrasting, depending on the effect you desire.

There are very useful directions for sewing with gold in  _The Complete Encyclopedia of
Needlework_ by Therese de Dillmont. It was originally published in 1884 and has 700 pgs of info
about whitework, linen embroidery, applique, crewel, tapestry, lacemaking, and more. It is one
of my favorite handwork books. The methods are not organized by date or place of origin (she
just tells you how do the needlework), but I think that you can probably recreate the look of
just about any historical embroidery or lace detail using the instructions in this book.


jb

<<<<Hi, I have a question that probably sounds really stupid to you gus, but I'm curious. Way
back when, was most metallic embroidery done with actual metal? and if so, when you guys make
authentic costumes do you use actual metal for this or do you use the "silver" & "gold" thread
you can buy now?  I've seen several peices in my life which had this wire type embroidery, of
course all tarnished and in general in bad shape. Mostly on shoes and purses for some reason.
I've read about detail work quite a bit but have never seen anything about metallic embroidery.
I was just wondering what they used? was is wire of a smaller gage than beading wire (like they
use for jewelry) or what? again I appologize if this is a stupid question. >>>>

- ---

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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

> I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C
> -- properly felt was made from unspun wool.

Somebody wrote:  I suspect that fulled wool was in period long before the 14th
century.  


I don't know what was happening earlier, but by the eleventh century, when the
horizontal loom was being used, fulling was an extremely important part of the
textile production process, to the point where mechanical fulling milles were
being recorded, even that early, although the process remained basically hand
done for the most part.  Most wools, broadcloth especially, was extremely
heavily fulled, to the point where
	- you couldn't see any weaving pattern, so it was mostly done
	in plain weave
	- fabrics might lose up to 30% in length, 35-40% in width, or up to 60% in
surface area.

  After fulling and various other processes, the nap would be raised and then
sheared off.  This process might be repeated more than once for fine cloths
such as 'scarlet' (the finest and most expensive woolen cloth, not a color). 
The result was a cloth that was heavy and practically impermeable.  Also,
really good cloths might be raised and sheared repeatedly during the course of
their life as clothing--royal wardrbe accounts often have records of payments
made to shearers--which shows you how thick the cloth must have been.

To anybody who's interested in the processes:  a book called *The Dictionary
of the Middle Ages*, edited by Joseph R. Strayer, has two articles in its
"Scandinavian Languages to Textiles, Islamic" volume.  Both are by John Munro,
an economic historian with a special interest in textiles; one is on Textile
Technology and the other on Textile Workers.  The shrinkage figures I gave
above come from the first one.


Lauri
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From: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: h-costume, How many members?  384 !
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-Poster: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>

Greetings,

I am a sometimes poster, sometimes lurker.  I also read other lists and
follow what I can, learn where I can.  I hate to burst the bubble of having
everyone check-in, so go ahead and keep on.

On using the command to the majordomo - the listserve's origin, 'who
h-costume' I received a list of 384 people receiving this list via the
listserve.   No, I wouldn't spam the list and I hope there anti-spam
measures set up.

There are some commands that listserve lists and other email lists have in
common.  This one does not really carry its back files/archives, and has no
other files to access.

For more info on list servers and stuff, I found Patrick Crispin's articles
Roadmap 'Guide to the Internet' very useful:

http://www.nmusd.k12.ca.us/Resources/Roadmap/welcome.html


Sidne

"Psychoanalysis is expensive, bubble wrap is cheap.  You chose. "

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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: What to do with a Uniquely You
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:11:00 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


>OK, so who knows of a terrific dress form that 's out there, that's easily
adjustable between two women's sizes - my friend and I wanna share, but
she's 4 inches taller and thinner!

>Am I dreaming???

Do not get anything *except* an Uniquely You. They're fantastic!  Expensive,
tho'. Here's how to share: buy 2 covers for the dummy.  When it's your turn
w/ the dummy, take your friends cover off, put your cover on.

If you're both in the size range of 1 dummy, you can share.  If in doubt,
buy the next size larger. She'll squish.   Check the under bust size, too.
They dont publish this number, but if you have a small ribcage for your
size, this can end up too small.  Then your close-fitting dresses cant be
made on the dummy. Have a Very Experienced fitter do your cover & your
friend's.

Uniquely You's corset up marvelously. Some people have 2 or more covers; one
for each era they costume. I.e. you might make 1 to fit your natural, modern
shape & another that's for the "highbreasted" flat-front corsetted eras.

Some modifications:
I have reshaped mine somewhat to compensate for protruding shoulder blades &
forward thrust shoulders.  I cut off the shoulder back & slipped the excess
foam under the cover into the shoulderblade area.  I find that the neck is
quite far forward (I have very vertical posture), but havent figured out how
I want to adjust this.  Collared jackets & highnecked gowns are best made
right on the person rather than the dummy.

Some people add "birdseed boobs" to mimic the movement upwards that natural
ones have when corseted.  Take a pair of panty hose, snip off toes, fill
toes w/ "sufficient" birdseed, stitch shut. Slit the underbreast of the
dummy, insert seedpouch, put "highbreasted" cover on dummy.  If this makes
you squeamish, just tuck a little quilt batt between the cover & the dummy
till you get the correct shape.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
> 
> Silver and gold have always been and still are used for ecclesiastical and regalia decoration, Whether it be actual sewing threads or fine 'tubes' of netal which is couched down . Unfortunately the percentage of metal used is a lot less these days than it was even at the end of the war (only 9% today). It is the same with military lace. As I specialise in making repro uniforms this is something I deal with on a day to day basis and get my supplies from the MOD suppliers in England direct although alot of this work is now going abroad to India because of cost. The Royal School of Needlework at Hampton court as part of their apprenticeship teach goldwork and are responsible for the conservation of many embroideries of this type. My other half specialises in repro regalia and uniform embroidery in gold and silver work (he's self taught because of the necessity to finish my uniforms off, I don't embroider unless I have to it always was man's work and I don't see why it should be!
 any different today) making tail ornaments, badges etc he also spins his own bullions for eppaulettes etc and he's in the process of embroidering an 18th century stomacher in metal threads includung real spangles . Now I can get real I don't use fake I'm afraid
> 
> ---
> Ginnaphure
> 
> ICQ# 41340093
> 
> "Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake."
> 
> Get free e-mail with a women.com membership at http://women.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> > I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C
> > -- properly felt was made from unspun wool.

Something I forgot to add.  I don't know about dates, as I said, but I do know that
fulled wool and felted wool are not the same thing.  The difference is the process and
when it takes place in the life of the wool.  Felting is done after washing (and maybe
after carding) and is not woven but fulling only takes place after the wool is
cleaned, carded, spun, and woven.

Merouda
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> I certainly didn't mean to imply that
> Margo was doing this intentionally..thank you for drawing that to my
> attention as my wording may have mis communicated what I intended to say.

Of course you didn't.  :)  Email is such a tough medium to use sometimes.  :)

Cynthia


--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:20:39 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


> Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
> doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.

Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.  Saves much
wear & tear on the fingers.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, Cynthia Barnes wrote:
> 
> 
> > Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
> > doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.


Run your thread over a block of beeswax before sewing, and it will
eliminate many of your tangles.  Using silk thread does the same.

If you aren't familiar with the wide range of available sewing
stitches--running stitch, back stitch, hem-stitch, blind-stitch,
etc.--check out a book on sewing or such from the library and read up on
them. Although you don't need to know lots of fancy stitches to sew by
hand, it's nice to know something of what exists if you want to do
something special.

And don't worry if your seams wander all over the place at first; it takes
some practice to get a straight, even seam. Hand-sew a 10-gore greenland
dress, and I guarantee that by the time you're done your seams & stitches
will be the envy of all your friends.  :)

Good luck,

Drea

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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Source for real gold-wrapped thread?
In-Reply-To: <37DDDC13.318B@virgin.net>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Do you have the address, phone or email of a company that sells the heavy
gold and silver wrapped cording, or the metal "tubes" which are sewn down?

Do tell!

Thanks,

Drea

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, Dawn wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> 
> Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank wrote:
> > 
> > -Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
> > 
> > Silver and gold have always been and still are used for
ecclesiastical and regalia decoration, Whether it be actual sewing
threads or fine 'tubes' of netal which is couched down . Unfortunately
the percentage of metal used is a lot less these days than it was even at the end of the war (only 9% today). It is the same with military lace. As I specialise in making repro uniforms this is something I deal with on a day to day basis and get my supplies from the MOD suppliers in England direct although alot of this work is now going abroad to India because of cost. The Royal School of Needlework at Hampton court as part of their apprenticeship teach goldwork and are responsible for the conservation of many embroideries of this type. My other half specialises in repro regalia and uniform embroidery in gold and silver work (he's self taught because of the necessity to finish my uniforms off, I don't embroider unless I have to it always was man's work and I don't see why it should be!
>  any different today) making tail ornaments, badges etc he also spins his own bullions for eppaulettes etc and he's in the process of embroidering an 18th century stomacher in metal threads includung real spangles . Now I can get real I don't use fake I'm afraid
> > 
> > ---
> > Ginnaphure
> > 
> > ICQ# 41340093
> > 
> > "Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake."
> > 
> > Get free e-mail with a women.com membership at http://women.com
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 18:00:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 14:11:57 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I won't say who it was, but someone wrote:

> But I prefer to overdress for any occasion rather than underdressed
> as does my DH.

I've seen a number of posts referring to a DH. Maybe it's the baseball player
in me, but I can't imagine why everyone has a designated hitter. Okay, I'm
just a dumb male, but what is being referred to here?

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 18:01:45 1999
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Katharine wrote:

> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday life,
> when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a fashionable/historical
> flair, or do you go for simple & basic?

Well, I like to think that I'm always dressed nicely (unless I'm doing grubby
housework, gardening, etc.), but my choices are severely limited by two
factors; I'm male and allergic to synthetics.

I spent some critical formative years (age 12-18) living on an island in the
Central Pacific and the rest of my life in sunny Southern California. Thus, my
preference is for shorts and a polo or t-shirt. There are only two or three
weeks out of the year that I find it necessary to wear jeans. Even when I'm
dressing casually, I do my best to make sure that I choose colors and patterns
that match each other and my coloring.

Thankfully, I've never worked in a field that required a necktie. I've never
been the type to wear boring plain white or light blue dress shirts. I like to
wear tasteful stripes and plaids and the occasional print, usually leaning
towards the classic styles rather than anything outlandish. Slacks are usually
pleated front cotton twills in various colors. Never corduroy or cuffs. I
don't have a suit (though I should), but wear a silk or linen blazer with a
tie that's interesting, but neither plain nor gaudy.

I like to wear sweaters and jackets, but around here we don't have much call
for them. Of course, this hasn't stopped me from collecting more than I'll
never need.

My biggest dilemma is shoes. I'm very picky about them and won't wear anything
that looks like a boat shoe, golf shoe, or bowling shoe. Unfortunately, that's
99% of what is available.

I'm sure that's more than anyone wanted to know. :-)

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 16:24:01 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> > But I prefer to overdress for any occasion rather than underdressed
> > as does my DH.
>
> I've seen a number of posts referring to a DH. Maybe it's the baseball player
> in me, but I can't imagine why everyone has a designated hitter. Okay, I'm
> just a dumb male, but what is being referred to here?

DH = Dear Husband  :)    Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

A
>DH = Dear Husband  :)   

Or Damn Husband, depending on how the week is going.

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 18:19:56 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000101befe14$af494c10$6b037a86@cbarnes.phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 00:30:45 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Rather than go looking for a sailors palm.which can often be a bit too bulky
for every day stitching - you will always be putting in on and off. ; Why
not make a smaller one yourself , with a coin sewn firmly between to pieces
of thick material and with a presstud at the back of the hand to keep it
tight; It gives you enough for a heavy push and doesnt get in the way when
positioning material or threading needles.
Dave



+++++++++++++++++
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

>
> -Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
>
>
> > Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
> > doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.
>
> Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.  Saves
much
> wear & tear on the fingers.
>
> --cin


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
>
>Linda,
>
>Dietmar sent you some very important suggestions on sewing leather.  His
>suggestion for seams is how I was taught to work with leather.  HOWEVER, he
>didn't mention (and neither did my first teacher) that Barge cement is very
>dangerous to use.

I second this warning and would recommend as an alternative a non-toxic
adhesive called "Leather Weld."  While I am not expert in leather-working,
this has worked for me in the past.  I believe it can be gotten through
Tandy.  Does anyone else have any experience with it?

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:03:54 1999
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From: "Andrea navin" <medea6186@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ranting against fashion idiots
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:18:14 EDT
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-Poster: "Andrea navin" <medea6186@hotmail.com>


g. Was this a
>fluke or has medieval really come back as a fashion influence with teens?
>
I missed delurking day but I just had to answer the question for my 
generation. Yes medieval is back. Not for teeny bopper, Britney Spears-lover 
people. But for the less "mainstream" teenagers, yes.
Two of my friends are going medieval for Prom this year: both are getting 
their dresses at the local medieval shop which has two or three locations 
and just opened a Victorian shop as well. (Unfortunantly they think I am 
going medieval with them despite the fact that I have told them thousands of 
times I'm going 19th century.
And they still say " Yeah, like I said, you're going medieval" *sigh*)
I am just looking forward to the faces of the people on the subway when we 
show up in or medieval/19th century attire :)

Andrea
And yes my hair is red!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:03:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:17:53 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: DH
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

In a message dated 9/13/99 7:37:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Margo Anderson 
writes:

<< Or Damn Husband, depending on how the week is going. >>

I almost choked on my tea!!!   Thanks EVER so much for that bit of 
day-brightening!!!   :::still chuckling and going back to sewing the 
un-authentic but gonna-be-fun silk plaid skirt to wear to Faire this coming 
Saturday for "Scottish Weekend"::::

~Morghana
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:07:01 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909131917.MAA28830@zeus.directcon.net> <37DD5B09.3844BC2@serv.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress/was Boring clothes-cleavage
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:19:25 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I always call it the Refrigerator Repair Man.  Have you ever seen the scene
on Saturday Night Live where Bill Murray (a.k.a. Tad) and Gilda had the frig
repaired.  The repairman bent over and his moon shined.  The two of the
giggled themselves silly.

Later... Penny

**********************************
Deadline for the Online Costume Ball is Sept. 21
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm



> Maybe it depends on what part of the US you live in because here in my
neck of
> the woods we call it T.V. Repairman Pants.
>
> *GGGGG*
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Bornover
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:08:33 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>I second this warning and would recommend as an alternative a non-toxic
>adhesive called "Leather Weld."  While I am not expert in leather-working,
>this has worked for me in the past.  I believe it can be gotten through
>Tandy.  Does anyone else have any experience with it?
>
Yes, since the leather business my husband and I used to have was during my
two pregnancies and subsequent brestfeeding, there was  No Way I was going
near barge cement.  I used Leather Weld instead.  It doesn't have the
"instant hold" that Barge and other contact cements have, so you have to
clamp, weight, or otherwise hold the pieces together until it dries, but
then the bond is very strong

For sewing garment weight leather, I usually used a mock welt seam,  with
both seam allowances folded to one side and then topstitched.  To secure the
seams before stitching I used Dritz's basting tape, which works wonderfully
well. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:09:27 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:26:21 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

>  After fulling and various other processes, the nap would be raised and
then
>sheared off.  This process might be repeated more than once for fine cloths
>such as 'scarlet' (the finest and most expensive woolen cloth, not a
color).
>The result was a cloth that was heavy and practically impermeable.  Also,
>really good cloths might be raised and sheared repeatedly during the course
of
>their life as clothing--royal wardrbe accounts often have records of
payments
>made to shearers--which shows you how thick the cloth must have been.


Yep.  The household accounts of Eleanor, Countess of Leicester (the first
non-royal household accounts extant) document her sending "Hick the Taylor"
off to London to have some clothes sheared.  As I recall, it wasn't cheap.
However, it doesn't necessarily mean the cloth was thick--just dense.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:31:25 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 19:51:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool question
In-Reply-To: <37DD7465.B52025C2@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


As long as we're on the topic...

Can worsted be fulled? I had the impression that it could not.

Was worsted (as we know it today) used in period? If so, was it valued? I
remember a discussion on this list a couple of years ago about this, but
the only thing I came away from it with was that the meaning of "worsted"
as used in medieval documents may not have been the same as we use now.
Which of course makes things only more confusing.

One reason I am suddenly concerned about this is that I have acquired
about 60 yards of pieces of fine wool suiting -- all of them 100 percent
worsted, very lightweight and smooth, in black, dark blue, grey, red, and
taupe. I'm dying to use them for things like men's hose and women's fitted
underdresses. But only if I'm sure that worsted, rather than just plain
wool, would have been valued. 

I am highly allergic to wool myself, but I don't react to these
wonderfully smooth worsteds, so this is the only way I'll have a wool
fitted gown of my own.

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 19:53:18 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 18:10:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carol Mitchell <whiterose_y@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Cavalier Association
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <whiterose_y@yahoo.com>


Marsha, is there an address, either e-mail or snailmail for the group?
I'd like to include it in the Midwest resource list.
Thanks
Carol
Carol Mitchell President Chicagoland Costumer's Guild
__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909131804.LAA20666@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:43:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

> This same person, BTW,  doesn't think I should be drafting my own
patterns.
> She wants me to use Past Patterns or some other company's pattern,
"because
> that way it's historically accurate".

Unless I've lost my mind (always possible) there were NO commercial patterns
in the 1850's so you are MORE accurate by drafting you own. I'll be the
first to admit that the first bodice I drafted for myself was far from
accurate but that was due to a lack of understanding of the differences
between 19th and 20th century cutting and draping. Now that I understand how
the different cuts works with the grain line etc. I think I am more accurate
drafting an item for MY body - just as my great, great, etc. grandmothers
would have done for themselves.

Beth

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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990913.114513.-232099.0.AnnetteAllen@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Red hair was (Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 20:26:23 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

>
> As I grew older and my hair grew darker, I insisted on blonde and
> everyone else kept calling it "strawberry blonde".  I began wearing
> jewel tones and people began asking me what color my eyes are.
> (I call them Hazel Grey, because they are grey when I am naked in
> a cream colored bathroom with no makeup on.)  They range from
> grey to bright blue, blue, green, blue-green, and/or yellow.
> (Apparently,
> they turn yellow when I am very angry, according to my husband, who
> would be the most likely to know!)
>
> I cannot use ash colors on my hair; it turns green.  I cannot use gold
> colors on my hair, it turns red.


Any genetisists on the list?? Are blond/brown hair turning red and chameleon
colored eyes genetically linked?? In college I started answering the "what
color ARE you eyes?" question with "I don't know! What color do you think
they are?" It drove one boyfriend absolutely crazy for a while - but then he
deserved all that and way more :)

Beth

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 20:48:48 1999
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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990913.114513.-232099.0.AnnetteAllen@juno.com> <000201befe52$4ab371c0$9d5dadc7@bchamber>
Subject: Re: Red hair was (Re: H-COST: How Costumers dress)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:03:08 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0149_01BEFE33.C3357400
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<<Any genetisists on the list?? Are blond/brown hair turning red and =
chameleon
colored eyes genetically linked??=20

One of my best friends has a degree in genetics.  I can give her a call =
and see if she can enlighten the list as far as redheads and an interest =
in costume history.  I'll let you all know if she has anything to say =
about it.  I'm a blonde gone red and now going back to blonde. =20

Well, need to get off the computer.  I have to finish preparing for =
Hurricane Floyd.  I'll probably away from the computerfor a couple days, =
for those of you trying to get a hold of me.  Wish me luck.

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&lt;&lt;Any genetisists on the list?? Are =
blond/brown hair=20
turning red and chameleon<BR>colored eyes genetically linked?? =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>One of my best friends has a degree in genetics.&nbsp; I can give =
her a=20
call and see if she can enlighten the list as far as redheads and an =
interest in=20
costume history.&nbsp; I'll let you all know if she has anything to say =
about=20
it.&nbsp; I'm a blonde gone red and now going back to blonde.&nbsp; =
</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Well, need to get off the computer.&nbsp; I have to finish =
preparing for=20
Hurricane Floyd.&nbsp; I'll probably away from the computerfor a couple =
days,=20
for those of you trying to get a hold of me.&nbsp; Wish me luck.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 20:54:55 1999
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

No your question is NOT really stupid.They did use real gold.People have been 
embellishing their clothes and embroideries for at least a couple of thousand 
years.
One of my passions happens to be metal thread embroidery.Specifically 
Elizabethean style.The metal was used in several different forms. There were 
twisted braids of metal over silk, there were hammered lengths of gold,called 
plate;there were the 'metal springs', gold bullions, in a variety of 
textures: smooth, checky,purl..It is still possible to  buy this stuff with 
some of the real gold or silver in. Most of the stuff you will buy in the 
fabric or needlework store is likely to be thread wrapped lurex , though.I 
get a lot of my stuff from Hedgehog Handiworks, here in California. I'll take 
a quick look a little later --when I'm not so rushed and can point you in the 
direction of some good informative books with descriptions and techniques 
how-tos if you are interested.

Cheers--
albra
gotta run, right now
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From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fairbank" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:09:15   AlbraKat wrote:
>
>-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com
 There were 
>twisted braids of metal over silk, there were hammered lengths of gold,called 
>plate;there were the 'metal springs', gold bullions, in a variety of 
>textures: 

I've also seen the metal springs 
(I've seen them used to make petals 
of flowers) but I wasn't sure if that 
was the same thing. 

Thank all for you who replied:) it's 
appreciated. I see that the "metallic" 
thread now isn't too terribly different 
than it was. I pulls some apart and it's 
the "metallic" part wrapped around a 
white thread. The metallic part seems to 
be plastic of some sort, sort of like 
thin strands of mylar or whatever it is 
they use to make Christmas tree icicles 
out of. Sort of like how you all said they 
wrapped the threads in the fine metals. 
Very interesting. You all are a wealth 
of information!
 
---
Ginnaphure

ICQ# 41340093

"Last time we mixed politics with religion, 
people got burned at the stake." 




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 22:59:34 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:20:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

By her insistence on holding multiple needles at one time (and if this
method turns out to be actually true), it makes me wonder if there was a
tool for this. Something made to hold multiple needles and keep them aligned
perfectly. Hmmm... I wonder if  they had one  of these tools on the "Liar's
Club" and didn't really know what it was. ;)

  Margo,  I think I would go back to the person and ask her to show you how
she knows this. Also,  what do you call what you do, if it is not cartridge
pleating.   I am very curious, and I think I would politely call her on it
if I were in your shoes.  If nothing else, for the learning value alone.
Though,  it is possible that the only thing you learn that she is full of
you know what.  Once you find out, could you share with us?  I am sure lots
of us would want to know.
   Michelle

I do not know how "they" cartridge pleated, and actually could
>rather care less.  Personally, I "know" how "I" cartridge pleat, and the
>authenticity of technique thereof is of no consequence.(or very little)
As
>long as what I have created matches what "they" created...why fuss about
>using 2,3,27000 needles at a time
>Chas
>

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:32:02 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Has anyone else seen the corset on the cover of the US September
Cosmopolitan magazine?  I was so fascinated by it (given our recent
thread about teens wanting Ren/Medieval for Prom) that I picked it up.

Kat
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: What's a DH?
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:46:38 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



'Divorced Husband'  is what popped into my mind!
  Michelle
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> > But I prefer to overdress for any occasion rather than underdressed
>> > as does my DH.
>>
>> I've seen a number of posts referring to a DH. Maybe it's the baseball
player
>> in me, but I can't imagine why everyone has a designated hitter. Okay,
I'm
>> just a dumb male, but what is being referred to here?
>
>DH = Dear Husband  :)    Cynthia


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 13 23:51:25 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:06:34 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: What's a DH?
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-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>

Another list I was on used DH as Darling (or Dratted, depending on reference)
Husband.

Svanny

At 09:46 PM 09/13/1999 , you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
>
>'Divorced Husband'  is what popped into my mind!
>  Michelle
>>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>>
>>> > But I prefer to overdress for any occasion rather than underdressed
>>> > as does my DH.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 00:31:54 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: No harm done/thanks for the info/Re: Source for gemstone bead buttons
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:45:39 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hi Danielle

No you haven't offended me at all. I know the difference between lapis and 
howlite. :-) Since Kat mentioned that she couldn't afford the real thing, I 
was just giving her an alternative that is about the same shade of blue but 
is much cheaper than the original. No harm done. Thanks very much for your 
information. I may be asking you for more gem info in the future. If that's 
okay with you.

Thanks again

Lonna


>From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for gemstone bead buttons
>Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 01:34:09 -0400
>
>
>-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>
>Greetings,
>
> >I found a 16" strand of Howlite (dyed Lapis) 10mm beads (about 41 beads)
> >for $6.83 per strand (If you buy more than 3, there is a proportional
> >discount).  They also have a 12mm (34 beads) for $9.82. Their regular
> >lapis runs from $14.95 (for 4mm) to $29.95 (for 8mm).
>
>I think I'll preface this with the statement "however I say this I'm sure
>it will come out wrong".  Hi, my name is Danielle Nunn-Weinberg and I'm a
>gemmologist.  I just wanted to ask you if you realize that Howlite is a
>completely different mineral from Lapis Lazuli.
>
>Howlite is usually dyed a variety of different colours to be used as an
>inexpensive substitute for the more expensive stone it it impersinating.
>Most Lapis on the market these days is dyed already.  The way to test for
>dyed lapis is take a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol.  Rub it on a
>non-visible portion of the stone.  If there is any blue on the swab - the
>stone is dyed.  Please don't let either of these things detract from your
>enjoyment of the stone, it is just meant as information.
>
>Please forgive me if I've offended.
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, FGA, FCGmA
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 00:48:29 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:04:32 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Oh my, that really made me laugh . . . my first day on the SCA garb list,
too (grin).

Will you post it to the historic list, too?  I think they'd get quite a kick
out of it.

Zelda of York
-----Original Message-----
From: Carol J. Bell Cannon <cjcannon@greymists.com>
To: Recipient list suppressed <Recipient list suppressed>
Date: September 13, 1999 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines


>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>    I'm reading several lists at once, among them h-costume and SCA Garb.
>I'd just finished reading a post from a lady who was wanted some explicit
>help constructing authentic Viking/Verangian Guard-style pants...then I
>read another:  Sounds like you are in desperate need of a Viking. They
>never need oiling and  they are pretty much unjammable ... <snip> ...
>             At which point, I was curled up over my keyboard laughing...
>I'm sorry...I had to share that...and as you see--it was not either post,
>but my misinterpretation, and all because of the commonality between the
>two posts of the word Viking... Carol / Gra/inne, who thinks maybe it's
>time to go do something else for a while...
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 00:55:15 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 00:55:21 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: metal embroidery
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

Just a couple of thoughts:

Another technique used with metal(lic) threads was used in some liturgical
garments I've seen.  It involved couching gold thread/thin cord with
colored threads, but the couching was very close together, like satin
stitching.  The idea was to "paint with thread", using different colors and
allowing more or less of the gold to show for shading.  Unfortunately, the
name of the technique escapes me right now.  It was very detailed and
obviously time consuming.  I saw several religious vestments using this at
the Phila. Museum of Art when we were there back in February.

In reference to the little metal "springs" that were couched down, I found
bags of the stuff in copper (yes, real copper) being sold for Xmas icicles.
 Don't know if it came in "gold" or "silver", but I got many bags of the
copper for less than $1 each.  This was in Menards Xmas decorations last
season.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 01:03:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:22:13 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I had written:

> Okay, I'm just a dumb male, but what is being referred to here?

Cynthia replied:

>> DH = Dear Husband  :)   

Margo added:

>>> Or Damn Husband, depending on how the week is going.

I hope it never gets bad enough to imply Deceased Husband.

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 01:07:59 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:22:37 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo

Delurking a bit here to ask -- What is a sailor's palm and where can I find 
one? Sounds like it could be something I can really use. I'm one of those 
people who can't stand to use a thimble. They make my fingertips itch. 
Besides, I need to actually feel what I'm stitching even if I end up with 
pock marks in my fingertips (which go away after a while as my sewing 
calluses begin to build up).

Thanks

Lonna


>From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: sailor's palm
>Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:20:39 -0700
>
>
>-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
>
>
> > Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
> > doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.
>
>Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.  Saves much
>wear & tear on the fingers.
>
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>408.570.1023
>Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
>Phoenix Technologies
>411 E. Plumeria Dr.
>San Jose CA 95134
>"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
>the wrong answers."
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Ten-gore Greenland dress? Have pattern?/Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:29:25 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>


>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

<snip> 10-gore greenland dress

This sounds wonderful. Where might I find more information on this? Patterns 
maybe? Whatever information you have will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much

Lonna


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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:53:53 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello

Sounds interesting.  Is it for making sails with?  How is it handled/used?

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: H-Costume (E-mail) <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 13, 1999 3:24 PM
Subject: H-COST: sailor's palm


>
>-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
>
>
>> Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or
>> doublet?  Any advice would be helpful.
>
>Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.  Saves much
>wear & tear on the fingers.
>
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>408.570.1023
>Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
>Phoenix Technologies
>411 E. Plumeria Dr.
>San Jose CA 95134
>"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
>the wrong answers."
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 01:37:47 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 23:52:16 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Ooops . . .

Sorry.   Oh well, goofed again.  This replying stuff is more hazardous than
lurking . . .

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: The Rogue <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 13, 1999 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines


>
>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>Oh my, that really made me laugh . . . my first day on the SCA garb list,
>too (grin).
>
>Will you post it to the historic list, too?  I think they'd get quite a
kick
>out of it.
>
>Zelda of York
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Carol J. Bell Cannon <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>To: Recipient list suppressed <Recipient list suppressed>
>Date: September 13, 1999 2:38 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST: A Tale of 4 sewing machines
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>>
>>    I'm reading several lists at once, among them h-costume and SCA Garb.
>>I'd just finished reading a post from a lady who was wanted some explicit
>>help constructing authentic Viking/Verangian Guard-style pants...then I
>>read another:  Sounds like you are in desperate need of a Viking. They
>>never need oiling and  they are pretty much unjammable ... <snip> ...
>>             At which point, I was curled up over my keyboard laughing...
>>I'm sorry...I had to share that...and as you see--it was not either post,
>>but my misinterpretation, and all because of the commonality between the
>>two posts of the word Viking... Carol / Gra/inne, who thinks maybe it's
>>time to go do something else for a while...
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 02:40:01 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 00:59:01 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Someone (I'm sorry, but I don't remember who) wrote:

>>> Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.
>>> Saves much wear & tear on the fingers.

Lonna wondered:

>> What is a sailor's palm and where can I find one?

Zelda confirmed:

> Sounds interesting.  Is it for making sails with?  How is it handled/used?

I've never really seen or used one, but from what I understand it is a spoon
shaped metal depression that fits into the palm of your hand and can be used
to push needles through many heavy layers. I believe they may be attached to a
sort of glove and that in a pinch you could probably use a soup spoon to
hobble together a home made variant.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 03:16:19 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 01:30:58 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

I think I understand now. I get this picture in my mind of sailors using 
this to protect their hands while they are building and/or repairing sails 
or other heavy cloth objects. Now I need to go to my source at Fisherman's 
Wharf to see if they can help me find someone who still uses one.

Thank you, Dietmar, for shedding some light on this.

Lonna


>From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 00:59:01 +0000
>
>
>-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
>Greetings,
>
>Someone (I'm sorry, but I don't remember who) wrote:
>
> >>> Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.
> >>> Saves much wear & tear on the fingers.
>
>Lonna wondered:
>
> >> What is a sailor's palm and where can I find one?
>
>Zelda confirmed:
>
> > Sounds interesting.  Is it for making sails with?  How is it 
>handled/used?
>
>I've never really seen or used one, but from what I understand it is a 
>spoon
>shaped metal depression that fits into the palm of your hand and can be 
>used
>to push needles through many heavy layers. I believe they may be attached 
>to a
>sort of glove and that in a pinch you could probably use a soup spoon to
>hobble together a home made variant.
>
>Regards,
>
>Dietmar
>
>
>"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
>  over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 04:07:40 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:34:09 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Source for real gold-wrapped thread?
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

aleed wrote:
> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> Do you have the address, phone or email of a company that sells the heavy
> gold and silver wrapped cording, or the metal "tubes" which are sewn down?
> 
> Do tell!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drea
> 
> On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, Dawn wrote:
> 
> >
> > -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Silver and gold have always been and still are used for

> ecclesiastical and regalia decoration, Whether it be actual sewing

> threads or fine 'tubes' of netal which is couched down . Unfortunately> 
> >  any different today) making tail ornaments, badges etc he also spins

 his own bullions for eppaulettes etc and he's in the process of

 embroidering an 18th century stomacher in metal threads includung real
 spangles . Now I can get real I don't use fake i'm afraid
> > >
> > >> > >  _________________________________________________________________
> > >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
Unfortunately the MOD suppliers don't supply direct (I don't think) as
due to many amalgamations the shop half has disappeared, and it's not
worth their while dealing with small orders. I get my supplies because
of Andrew's working with them. You Can I think buy via The Royal School
of Needlework at Hampton Court I will try and find their number. Andrew
sell the uniform laces but I'm not sure if he'd be interested in being a
supplier of threads as well I will ask him.
By the way the fake stuff is made from mylar, unfortunately the MOD is
starting to prefer this to real particularly in lace as it doesn't
tarnish which means we can get fewer designs for authenticity purposes.

Dawn

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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:11:08 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: H-Cost: "Bum-cleavage"
In-reply-to: <199909131951.NAA28157@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the
> waist,  as a result if the trouser being worn on the hips. the
> display of cleavage by building workers is an important part of
> modern day British culture; No I am not Joking, however
> unbelievable  
> Dave

Dave is correct except that they aren't what I'd call "gentlemen" 
and it should be pointed-out that men displaying bum cleavage are 
usually the subject of jokes.

Trust me, for the most part it is NOT a pretty sight.  It's also not 
uncommon and seems to be part of the modern way of men 
wearing trousers.  Not around their waists but sagging 'round their 
hips.

The other day, on the way home from work, I had the misfortune of 
being behind a commuter as he climbed the stairs to the platform 
at the station.  He was clad in shirt, tiue, trousers and "smart" 
shoes, adn had a jacket folded neatly over his arm.

His trousers were so low-slung that they looked in danger of 
dropping altogether and the crotch was hanging about an inch or 
two above the knee....

<shudder>

Why do they do it?

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Although known by different names here, the really bad adhesives have been
phased out through  European Legislation over the last ten years. New ones
have been invented, that dont make you "drunk"  or give you brain damage ,
some like the dreaded Black Bostik just smell awful. . Trouble is that they
may be safe but they have a very quick intitial drying time, so you cant
move things. Also they are quick to deteriorate if you meave the lid off.
Instant treacle.
Can you get heat activated leather adhesives in the states retail; I know
you can in the trade , but can the ordinary joe? Is leather Weld like these?
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
----- Original Message -----

> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> >I second this warning and would recommend as an alternative a non-toxic
> >adhesive called "Leather Weld."  While I am not expert in
leather-working,
> >this has worked for me in the past.  I believe it can be gotten through
> >Tandy.  Does anyone else have any experience with it?
> >


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 04:30:29 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990914083059.35419.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:44:42 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

 I have a small collection . Its one of those silly things that I
collect -have to buy every one I see. Basically they are for working all
kinds of canvas; The best ones are ex-navy/army surplus  (pre -1950 better
still pre 1930) and are really impressive; Thick boiled leather that covers
the palm  and top of the hand with a hole for the thumb. In the middle one;
sometime two, dimpled and concave round metal pieces firmly sewn inside a
leather grommet arrangement. There are different styles; some are for tent
making. One is so stiff you can stand on it and it doesnt bend.
The military ones were issued as part of a tent repair kit that included
needles and  pieces of canvas and felt and little cards of really tough
braided thread, all in a little green felt bag. I have seen a full kit dated
I think 1898 go at auction for a couple of hundred pounds; But the same
pattern lasted for many many years. I have also seen more recent ones made
in  plastic , but they are still quite bulky items and a sure fire way of
breaking needles
Dave


+++++++++++++++++.
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters


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From: "Jennifer Gibson" <chula@midwest.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Setting to Digest
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 05:05:17 -0500
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-Poster: "Jennifer Gibson" <chula@midwest.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_006D_01BEFE6E.BCFE6980
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This may be a silly question, but how can I set the list to receive the =
posts in digest form?

Thanks,=20

Jennifer

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This may be a silly question, but how =
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list to receive the posts in digest form?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jennifer</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 05:48:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:16:53 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

I have just spoken to him and  he says he would be happy to supply
anyone with metal threads if wanted. He can also supply metal fringing,
spangles, lace etc and makes tassels, hand worked metal thread tudor
buttons and loads of other stuff, he's far too useful so I can never
fall out with him. E-mail andrew@militarymetal.free-online.co.uk or
phone UK 0181 580 2688>
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> Unfortunately the MOD suppliers don't supply direct (I don't think) as
> due to many amalgamations the shop half has disappeared, and it's not
> worth their while dealing with small orders. I get my supplies because
> of Andrew's working with them. You Can I think buy via The Royal School
> of Needlework at Hampton Court I will try and find their number. Andrew
> sell the uniform laces but I'm not sure if he'd be interested in being a
> supplier of threads as well I will ask him.
> By the way the fake stuff is made from mylar, unfortunately the MOD is
> starting to prefer this to real particularly in lace as it doesn't
> tarnish which means we can get fewer designs for authenticity purposes.
> 
> Dawn
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost: "Bum-cleavage"
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:14:40 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

A female friend put a photo of herself in a 1700s dress on the pinboard at
work. Within an hour, someone had masked out all but the cleavage and added
the note, "Whose bum is this?"

> 
> > In the Uk ; gentlemen's cleavage is shown at the rear , below the
> > waist,  as a result if the trouser being worn on the hips. the
> > display of cleavage by building workers is an important part of
> > modern day British culture; No I am not Joking, however
> > unbelievable  
> > Dave
> 
> Dave is correct except that they aren't what I'd call "gentlemen" 
> and it should be pointed-out that men displaying bum cleavage are 
> usually the subject of jokes.
> 
> Trust me, for the most part it is NOT a pretty sight.  It's also not 
> uncommon and seems to be part of the modern way of men 
> wearing trousers.  Not around their waists but sagging 'round their 
> hips.
> 
> The other day, on the way home from work, I had the misfortune of 
> being behind a commuter as he climbed the stairs to the platform 
> at the station.  He was clad in shirt, tiue, trousers and "smart" 
> shoes, adn had a jacket folded neatly over his arm.
> 
> His trousers were so low-slung that they looked in danger of 
> dropping altogether and the crotch was hanging about an inch or 
> two above the knee....
> 
> <shudder>
> 
> Why do they do it?
> 
> Teddy
> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> air and darkness, apparently!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 06:51:22 1999
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From: Elaine Benfatto <benfatto@mediaone.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: worsted wool
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-Poster: Elaine Benfatto <benfatto@mediaone.net>

>Can worsted be fulled? I had the impression that it could not.
>
>Was worsted (as we know it today) used in period? If so, was it valued?

You didn't say which "period" you're asking about, but wool combing (the
preparation method that is necessary to produce worsted yarn) is a very,
very old craft. I've got a woodcut of Bishop Blaize, the patron saint of
woolcombers, who met with his unfortunate martyrdom in the 2nd century by
being torn apart by wool combs. And I'm pretty sure (although I'd have to
dig into my sources) that combing goes back even further than the 2nd
century. So, yes, worsted is a very old spinning method and could have been
used to produce yarn to make worsted cloth in medieval times and later.

Can worsted be fulled? Technically that depends on the kind of wool that
was used to make the cloth. Some breeds of sheep wool full easily, some not
at all. The question might better be phrased, "Did they full worsted?" And
I don't know the answer to that. Today worsted cloth is prized for its
smooth, crisp hand and that quality would be lost if it were fulled and
made fluffy. I'm not enough of a scholar to know if weavers and finishers
sought this effect in earlier times.

Elaine



Elaine Benfatto (Cambridge, MA)
benfatto@mediaone.net
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/benfatto/


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 07:25:47 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: sailor's palm
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

A sailor's palm is a metal (usually dimpled, to catch the needle) plate set
into a heavy leather strap that fits around your hand. As someone pointed
out, they are used in place of a thimble to push large, heavy needles
through many layers of sailcloth or canvas.

They would be worthless used with ordinary sewing needles -- how many of
you sew with a needle long enough to be pushed from underneath your thumb?
the needle needs to be at least 2 inches long, and also needs to be heavy
enough to withstand being pushed from that far without bowing or breaking.
Sail needles ar e*very* heavy.   Also, palms are quite cumbersome until you
get used to working with them -- it is *not* like sewing with a glove on
your hand.

They are still available, in several different grades. If you do any amount
of canvas work, I think it's worth it to spend the extra $$ to buy a good
one, which come in sizes, and can be formed to fit your hand. The cheap
ones are nasty and actually can be dangerous to work with, because they can
slide around so much.

Check the yellow pages for a ship's chandlery, marine supply place, etc.
There are several sailmakers' supply places that do mailorder.

De borah


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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 08:59:28 EDT
Subject: H-COST: local medieval shop
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Andrea:

I noticed the medieval trend in some young people, and some pattern companies 
even have goth wear that is obviously influenced by medieval fashions and 
Victorian "artistic" clothing. But what, please tell, is sold at a "local 
medieval shop"? We don't have any around here, and I am dying to know!

Gail Finke
whose medieval needs are more, well, medieval

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 08:05:31 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 06:25:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: local medieval shop
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


I have heard many people use this phrase in reference
to a Wicca Shop or an Herbal Medicine shop... I'm not
sure why... I do know that many Wicca shops sell the
"trendy vintage" clothes that are popular.

Sarah


> Andrea:
> 
> I noticed the medieval trend in some young people,
> and some pattern companies 
> even have goth wear that is obviously influenced by
> medieval fashions and 
> Victorian "artistic" clothing. But what, please
> tell, is sold at a "local 
> medieval shop"? We don't have any around here, and I
> am dying to know!
> 
> Gail Finke
> whose medieval needs are more, well, medieval
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 08:28:05 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:42:26 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Long ago and far away I lived on a boat , and one of the the chores was 
mending sails.The sailor's palm I had was a sort of leather strap that was 
fitted with a metal piece for pushing thru needles.It was rather thick and 
bulky and the metal par across the plam had little indentation much as a 
thimble has --but over a larger surface so the needles would'nt slip as you 
tried to push on them.(So, no, Deitmar , a spoon would'nt be as effective.) 
Even with a sailor's palm to halp me out, though , my hands got VERY sore.And 
the needles were huge, and quite nasty , if you goofed and missed the 
sail.And a boating hardware store, or ship's chadelry would be the best place 
o look for one.I would'nt waste my time on a plastic one--or it can be 
downright dangerous.
Cheers , 
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 08:38:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:53:10 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Spinners list
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Anyone know of a spinners list ?

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 08:43:55 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: metal embroidery
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

You are probably thinking of 'or nue'--which 'painted pictures', using silk 
over  a  background of couched golden cords. One can acheive some beautiful 
detailed effects doing this.There was also a technique called 'broiderie 
anglaise', which used backgrounds of couched gold threads in ornate diapered 
patterns.The figures were worked in split stitch, using silk.This technique 
was quite highly developed in the 12th  and 13th centuries --and was seen on 
a lot of the eclesiastical vestments.
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 09:20:52 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: sailor's palm (was Handsewing question?)
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-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

<Run your thread over a block of beeswax before sewing, and it will
eliminate many of your tangles.>

May I make a suggestion?   Press your waxed thread with a barely-warm iron to meld wax with thread, discourages wax from flaking off.

Also, be sure to thread the eye of the needle with the just-cut end of the thread.

If you don't mind non-historic methods, try Thread Heaven instead of wax.  Really does work better, especially in humidity.  More portable and doesn't melt (and the glitter topping is so cute).  THT, Renee


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 09:20:53 1999
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-Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>

<On using the command to the majordomo - the listserve's origin, 'who
<h-costume' I received a list of 384 people receiving this list via the
<listserve.   No, I wouldn't spam the list and I hope there anti-spam
<measures set up.

Only list members can retrieve the list of members.  If people are
uncomfortable about that, I can lock it down so no one can retrieve
it.

As for anti-spam, the list is set so only addresses subscribed to the
list can post.  I've been running it with these settings for all of
the years I've been the admin, and we haven't had a problem yet (knock
on silicon chips).

						...eliz, list admin

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-Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>





<This may be a silly question, but how can I set the list to receive the =
<posts in digest form?

To join the list, send a message to

	majordomo@indra.com

with the message

	subscribe h-costume-digest
	unsubscribe h-costume

Majordomo keeps the lists separately, so you need to join one and
leave the other.  There isn't a 'digest setting' unless you're using
Listserv software.


						...eliz
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 09:22:56 1999
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From: jweidman@invest.treas.state.mi.us
Subject: H-COST: McClintock reprint available
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-Poster: jweidman@invest.treas.state.mi.us


Hello, the list, I have just ordered "Old Irish and Highland Dress" by
McClintock!. The reprint is now available at www.scotpress.com,
304-379-8803. I was so excited, I forgot to ask the price, so I am not sure
what I just spent. No affil, just passing on an item of interest! Jane
Weidman



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 09:51:42 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:06:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Ten-gore Greenland dress? Have pattern?/Re: H-COST: sailor's
 palm
In-Reply-To: <19990914062925.68548.qmail@hotmail.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


There's a website of it up at
http://www.virtualelpaso.com/neverwinter/dress/dress.htm

It's neat!

Drea

On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, L.L. Johnson wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
> 
> 
> >-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> <snip> 10-gore greenland dress
> 
> This sounds wonderful. Where might I find more information on this? Patterns 
> maybe? Whatever information you have will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks much
> 
> Lonna
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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Date: 14 Sep 99 10:01:09 MDT
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Gold thread embroidery
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-Poster: griffinhold@usa.net

>Another technique used with metal(lic) threads was used in some >liturgical
garments I've seen.  It involved couching gold thread/thin >cord with colored
threads, but the couching was very close together, >like satin stitching.  The
idea was to "paint with thread", using >different colors and allowing more or
less of the gold to show for >shading.  Unfortunately, the name of the
technique escapes me right >now.  It was very detailed and obviously time
consuming

That would be 'or nue' (I can't get the accent grave over the e).  Good
description BTW.  I haven't run into a use of the technique on anything other
than ecclesiastical vestments though.  But it would look great on smaller
(what I call an 'in my lifetime') size project like a belt pouch.  I also saw
a vestment using a combination of or nue and 3D embroidery if you really want
your imagination to run wild.

Lyn Gillespie

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 10:46:59 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>, "h-needlework" <H-Needlework@Ansteorra.org>,
        "Wear Digest" <wearable@listserv.embroideryclubs.com>,
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Subject: H-COST: Sneak Peek of Ball '99
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:53:03 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I wanted to let you all have a sneak peek of our Online Costume Ball '99,
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/Guest1.htm

Enjoy... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 10:54:18 1999
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabethan - military buttons
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:26:08 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

> I've once again come across the assertion that Elizabeth issued a royal
> command that military uniforms have a line of buttons on the sleeves to
> prevent soldiers from wiping their noses on their sleeves.  I've seen
> this statement several times, but it's never been footnoted to track
> back to the original.  Fact or folklore?  If fact, where is it
> documented?

I think this one is folklore -- I've also heard the story attributed to
Napoleon, Peter the Great & Catherine of Russia, and assorted others.
It makes a good story, but I think it's more likely that the lines of
buttons are artefacts of a time when the buttons were utilitarian..

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 11:11:14 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:23:42 -0700
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From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Seams in leather
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Perhaps someone else has posted this and I missed it.  One feasible seam in
leather, and the flattest one, is to overlap the two pieces and sew the
overlap area.  With light, supple leather the bulk isn't a problem, but
heavier leathers don't fold flat.  Obviously the overlap must be carefully
figured, either by adding a small seam allowance to both meeting edges or
by cutting one edge on the seam line and leaving an allowance on the other.
 When double-stitched, this seam is quite strong (it can be enhanced by
glueing first) and it gives the general look of a felled seam.

Leslie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 11:12:09 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Can you get heat activated leather adhesives in the states retail; I know
>you can in the trade , but can the ordinary joe?  Is leather Weld like these?

I've never heard of heat activated adhesives for leather, but I've been out
of the business for a few years.  Leather Weld is a white glue, wth some
magical substances added. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 11:41:37 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:55:08 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Thank you, Dave.

I'm still going to check with my source, but now I can also haunt the local 
army/navy surplus stores.

Lonna

P.S. Would you be willing to scan some photos so our group can see    what 
they look like?

Thanks again

L.


>From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:44:42 +0100
>
>
>-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>  I have a small collection . Its one of those silly things that I
>collect -have to buy every one I see. Basically they are for working all
>kinds of canvas; The best ones are ex-navy/army surplus  (pre -1950 better
>still pre 1930) and are really impressive; Thick boiled leather that covers
>the palm  and top of the hand with a hole for the thumb. In the middle one;
>sometime two, dimpled and concave round metal pieces firmly sewn inside a
>leather grommet arrangement. There are different styles; some are for tent
>making. One is so stiff you can stand on it and it doesnt bend.
>The military ones were issued as part of a tent repair kit that included
>needles and  pieces of canvas and felt and little cards of really tough
>braided thread, all in a little green felt bag. I have seen a full kit 
>dated
>I think 1898 go at auction for a couple of hundred pounds; But the same
>pattern lasted for many many years. I have also seen more recent ones made
>in  plastic , but they are still quite bulky items and a sure fire way of
>breaking needles
>Dave
>
>
>+++++++++++++++++.
>L.D.Mundy
>Editor.Heritage Matters
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 11:47:23 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Not a red-head, and some other questions.
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:00:29 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

Alright!

I hate to burst anyone's bubble but - I AM NOT A RED-HEAD!

I am a brunette with blue-grey eyes.  I have dyed my hair red previously.  
It started when I had mononucleosis and my hair turned grey.  My mom thought 
it would be nice if I went back to school looking "normal", so she let me 
get some red tints added.

I did go back to the bottle occasionally but am "straight" now :)

I have some other questions:
How many on this list do costuming professionally?
How many are doing this as a hobby?'
How many hours do you devote to sewing?

I only do this as a hobby and don't get to spend much time on it.  When I do 
have time, I occasionally forget and just turn the t.v. on without picking 
something up.  (Augh - what a boob am I!)  But I'm trying to improve.  Have 
spent several evenings sewing a shirt by hand, working on an embroidery 
project, and last night began making an 'arming' vest for my husband, for 
him to suspend his chainmail legs from.

Looking forward to your answers!

Karie (AKA Allessandre)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 12:07:21 1999
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Subject: Re: Re: H-COST:Cartridge pleating question
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-Poster: Natekakar@aol.com

re:  commercial patterns -- Catherine Beecher's 1840's work on Domestic 
Economy suggested that women buy one well-fitted dress, pick one half/side of 
it apart, and make a pattern from it -- then sew the dress back together!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 12:27:56 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <41931D742A1@mdx-ref1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost: "Bum-cleavage"
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:15:48 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Of course its part of the current fashion of "erghh-chic" . Its very
difficult to explain;
One of the major British dressing sins for many years has been the wearing
of the short tails inside the underpants; This is a device used by men whos
lack of bottom causes the shirt taills to work out of the trouser bad, and
is intend to keep the top of the shirt pulled straight and smart. Ie its
putting on a better face for the public while causing hidden problems,
elsewhere  Sometimes it has been called a sign of insecurity., many cases
being unearthedntioned most notably Crippen
However the great British Public will not stand for such things; When it was
revealed that John Major was of this particular persuasion the British
Public voted against him in the biggest landslide for many years. the moral
being if a man does that with his shirt how can he be trusted to run a
country and lead it into a new Millennium?
I believe that this is not possible in the US/ most of my US bought shirts
suddenly cease just below the waist; My UK ones have full tails which drape
in a curve down to mid thigh.. Perhaps this is something that dropped at the
time of independence. But then you are very particular about your
politicians.
Dave

L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
 > -Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>
 >
> Dave is correct except that they aren't what I'd call "gentlemen"
> and it should be pointed-out that men displaying bum cleavage are
> usually the subject of jokes.
>
> Trust me, for the most part it is NOT a pretty sight.  It's also not
> uncommon and seems to be part of the modern way of men
> wearing trousers.  Not around their waists but sagging 'round their
> hips.
>
> The other day, on the way home from work, I had the misfortune of
> being behind a commuter as he climbed the stairs to the platform
> at the station.  He was clad in shirt, tiue, trousers and "smart"
> shoes, adn had a jacket folded neatly over his arm.
>
> His trousers were so low-slung that they looked in danger of
> dropping altogether and the crotch was hanging about an inch or
> two above the knee....
>
> <shudder>
>
> Why do they do it?
>


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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Handsewing question
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:59:40 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi all,

Zelda wrote:
> trying to find information about 1400 to 1500
> Dutch/Netherlands, of all classes.

Look for paintings by Jan and Hubert van Eyk, Rogier van der Weyden, Dirc
Bouts, Robert Campin, Hugo van der Goes, Hans Memling, Petrus Christus,
Quinten Matsijs and all that lot.. They are wonderful for costume details. 

Henk
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990914165509.67100.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 18:52:48 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



 > -Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
>
 >
> P.S. Would you be willing to scan some photos so our group can see    what
> they look like?
 The problem here is that they are in a display in our Lancashire premises;
And myself and the scanner are both (overworked) in Birmingham; I can but
try but promise naught.
Dave


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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: a Sailor's Palm described
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:07:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


Dietmar posited>I've never really seen or used one, but from what I
understand it is a spoon
>shaped metal depression that fits into the palm of your hand and can be
used
>to push needles through many heavy layers. I believe they may be attached
to a
>sort of glove and that in a pinch you could probably use a soup spoon to
>hobble together a home made variant.

Well conjectured!  It's a leather or canvas strap that partially covers the
palm & back of hand; it fits across or around 2 fingers and is anchored at
the wrist.  (Gymnasts and trapeze people will recognize this style
handguard - protection from ripped callouses.)  On the Sailor's Palm, at the
base of the thumb there is a small cup (maybe 3/4"), in hard rubber or
plastic.

Thread your needle. Strap the device on your hand. Insert needle into a
lapped seam of sailcloth, (or 2 pieces of leather, or a corset), use the
Palm to push the needle on thru the stiff, unyielding stuff. Draw the
needle.  Repeat.

 I find I often need a pair of pliers to draw the needle. Do not twist.
You'll break the needle.

There's another heavy-weight hand-sewing device usually stocked nearby.
Looks like a heavy duty tambour hook, but runs on a very heavy (sail weight)
"thread" that I certainly call cord; it's quite heavy.  Looks speedy &
handy.  I dont know what it's called.  Might be handy for medieval tent
making & repair in the field.

Buy: most hardware stores, leather shops, sailing paraphenalia shops.
Camping shops? Outdoor sporting goods shops?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:13:33 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

For many of us, costuming is a lifestyle, whether you get paid for it or
not.  I suppose I might come under the catagory of talented volunteer,
as I work with non-profit groups that rarely can afford to pay me.  I've
gotten the odd honorarium or travel expenses and occasionally get paid
for a workshop.  My husband is the bread-winner in the family. 
 
I work for one group (used to be two) as a Costume rental agent,
arranging for their stock to be rented to other, similar groups.  I also
own a legal company for theatrical design and construction.  My husband
does the lights and set side as his avocation.  I design costumes for
Gilbert and Sullivan operettas and then supervises the volunteers making
them.  I get to build the outfits for the "Pavarotti" sized members of
the cast, who can be a challenge to fit.  Oh yes, I also sing with many
of these groups at the same time as I'm dressing them.  Makes it a bit
complicated.

If I made money, I would be considered a professional, but since I
don't, I suppose I'm still an amateur.  Pity there isn't a catagory
between.

I am constantly enlarging my costume library, since the public libraies
around here suffer from "finger blight" or only have a few "fashion"
books.  When I need to do research, It's often during the times they're
not open!  I love finding out what the insides of old outfits look like
and the "whys and wherefores" of their construction.

-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
Boston, MA USA area
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:23:33 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>


Teddy,
They wear their pants this way so they can say that their waist is still
the same size as when they were in school.  Of course, for some reason
their inseam has shrunk also.  They can't figure out why.  I call them
the "Belly prop-ers".  They don't seem to "get it" that they would look
slimmer in the right size pants for their girth, and, Horrors! they
would never consider suspenders!  I get them all the time in Theatre,
and they really think they look better with their stomach held up and
out with a belt.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:23:34 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990914170029.22800.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: (was red head) 1997 list statistics
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 14:34:23 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

In 1997, I made a directory for the list members.  At that time, the
majority of people were hobbyist.  I think the statistics were like 2/3 of
the list.  The professional costumers were designer/reproduction, product
development, educators/students, and authors.  The majority of the members
were in the U.S. with California carrying the largest amount.  Other
countries represented were from the U.K., Canada, Australia, Germany, and
the Netherlands.  The largest time periods studied were 19th century,
Elizabethan, and Medeval respectively.   As far as associations, most were
members of SCA and/or Costume Society of America members.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com



> I only do this as a hobby and don't get to spend much time on it.  When I
do
> have time, I occasionally forget and just turn the t.v. on without picking
> something up.  (Augh - what a boob am I!)  But I'm trying to improve.
Have
> spent several evenings sewing a shirt by hand, working on an embroidery
> project, and last night began making an 'arming' vest for my husband, for
> him to suspend his chainmail legs from.


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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: h-costume-digest V4 #581
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 14:42:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>


> Karie Mitchell wrote:
> 
> I have some other questions:
	1.  How many on this list do costuming professionally?
	2.  How many are doing this as a hobby?'
	3.  How many hours do you devote to sewing?

	Answers:  
	1.  Not me, but would love to have the knowledge and
craftswoman's-ship to do it professionally.

	2.  Yes, hobby only -- one of many -- oh, the trail of unfinished
projects I have left behind................  I am a museum volunteer and do
mending, repairs, and stablizing as I have time (working for a living
prevents many hours otherwise spent in these interests)-- a great enjoyment.


	3.  Not nearly enough.  Only a few hours now and then, but in
between sewing projects there are the embroidery and other needlework
projects.

	Dark brunette with red highlights and green eyes.  Connie Fairchild
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:41:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:45:37 -0400
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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

>The result was a cloth that was heavy and practically impermeable.  Also,
>really good cloths might be raised and sheared repeatedly during the course
of
>their life as clothing--royal wardrbe accounts often have records of
payments
>made to shearers--which shows you how thick the cloth must have been.


Yep.  The household accounts of Eleanor, Countess of Leicester (the first
non-royal household accounts extant) document her sending "Hick the Taylor"
off to London to have some clothes sheared.  As I recall, it wasn't cheap.
However, it doesn't necessarily mean the cloth was thick--just dense.

Susan

Dear Susan:  I stand corrected.  'Dense' is precisely what I meant.
Lauri


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:42:04 1999
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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

Somebody wrote:

Another technique used with metal(lic) threads was used in some liturgical
garments I've seen.  It involved couching gold thread/thin cord with
colored threads, but the couching was very close together, like satin
stitching.  The idea was to "paint with thread", using different colors and
allowing more or less of the gold to show for shading.  Unfortunately, the
name of the technique escapes me right now.  It was very detailed and
obviously time consuming. 

This sounds similar to a technique called 'or nué'.  All the kinds of metallic
threads which have been mentioned were used in the Middle Ages.  There's a
book called "Embroiderers," by Kay Staniland, which was published by the
University of Toronto as part of a really good series called 'Medieval
Craftsmen,' which has excellent pictures and descriptions of medieval
embroidery work and the materials it was made from.  (ISBN:  0-8020-6915-0)

Lauri

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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909141625.JAA26179@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Leather doublet questions
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:50:24 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 > -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
 > I've never heard of heat activated adhesives for leather, but I've been
out
> of the business for a few years.  Leather Weld is a white glue, with some
> magical substances added.
>
 Sound truly magickal Ishall set off in search;
Thanks very much.
Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:44:57 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <37DC80F7.16B4C5AB@flash.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabethan - military buttons
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:56:47 +0100
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


  I have heard this one several times but never traced a source;; Its not
practical either  else they would be all the way up the arm; soldiers use
the upper sleeve just like the rest of us.
Dave>

>
> -Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
>
> I've once again come across the assertion that Elizabeth issued a royal
> command that military uniforms have a line of buttons on the sleeves to
> prevent soldiers from wiping their noses on their sleeves.  I've seen
> this statement several times, but it's never been footnoted to track
> back to the original.  Fact or folklore?  If fact, where is it
> documented?
>


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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990914170029.22800.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Some other questions.-answers
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



>
> -Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
 > I have some other questions:
> How many on this list do costuming professionally?
No way! Wouldn't tolerate the thought for a moment. And I greatly admre
anyone that does it for a living. I have a very low customer tolerance level
I would end up end up in  deep:::; Although I have made all of the costumes
I use for guided walks characters as well as for the other shows that I no
longer do;  I write illustrate and photograph costumes now instead of
wearing them professionally. Occasionaly I will draft out a pattern to help
a friend as a favour.
Maybe I could do the job but I certainly couldnt live on what some of my
friends make. How they manage  and with the things I dont have; families,
mortgages etc  is a miracle to me and then they have to cope with fussy
people as well  ARGGGH.!
I am planning to start doing a  small number of shoemaking demonstrations
next year but just mainly for the free camping in nice company. But no way
am I going into ongoing supplier /customer relationship by trying to sell
anything.
> How many are doing this as a hobby?'
My hobby is embroidery in all of its forms, not so much a hobby more therapy
and it fills my time that I have to spend away from the computer; It also
the only thing I have space for; its very restful.  The pieces get made into
shoes, eventually. I have been known to carry the work around in my camera
bag when on papparazzi type contracts, to while away the hours of waiting
time;
> How many hours do you devote to sewing?
The embroidery counts yes? ......Not enough ; On a good day I aim at 3 or 4
hours, half of which is spent admiring  it or looking for mislaid items.
After some particularly gruelling jobs I have a frenzy at it for hours and
hours until I return to some kind of human being.
>
 Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 13:56:08 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Status:  hobby or professional?
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 15:13:07 -0400
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>



Karie Mitchell wrote:

>I have some other questions:
>How many on this list do costuming professionally?

Nope.  I sell patterns and fabric for costuming, but do not produce the 
garments for resale or for any given group.  I can barely keep my 11 year 
old in clothes!

>How many are doing this as a hobby?'

I think this would be my level at this point.  It is peripheral to my 
profession, and I have done lots of garments, very few of which I have.  
But since the making of garments itself is not how I earn my living, I 
guess this is where I belong.

>How many hours do you devote to sewing?

Not nearly enough.  I'm delving back into my first love, Tudor era, and 
actually making time to sew a couple of hours a day.  Now if I can just 
get some new things done for _myself_.

Lisa Brandt (AKA Lisee)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 14:34:03 1999
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

Yes! I'm on a list called Fibernet. It generally covers spinning and weaving topics. It is not quite as active as h-costume, but there are a lot of knowledgeable people on it. I have lost the info on how to
join, but if you contact
          owner-fibernet-digest@Majordomo.net I'm sure they can help you.

jb

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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990914160109.27132.qmail@www0q.netaddress.usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gold thread embroidery
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

More USeless information ; If you ever get the chance ;go see the collection
of ecclesiastical vestments at Townley Hall near Burnley; Wow,  many use the
technique you mention very pictorial; take a torch they keep them in the
dark
Dave

>
> -Poster: griffinhold@usa.net
>
> >Another technique used with metal(lic) threads was used in some
>liturgical
> garments I've seen.  It involved couching gold thread/thin >cord with
colored
> threads, but the couching was very close together, >like satin stitching.
The
> idea was to "paint with thread", using >different colors and allowing more
or
> less of the gold to show for >shading.  Unfortunately, the name of the
> technique escapes me right >now.  It was very detailed and obviously time
> consuming


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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000001befedc$0d4b6e20$6b037a86@cbarnes.phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: a Sailor's Palm described
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 20:18:37 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 > -Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
 > There's another heavy-weight hand-sewing device usually stocked nearby.
> Looks like a heavy duty tambour hook, but runs on a very heavy (sail
weight)
> "thread" that I certainly call cord; it's quite heavy.  Looks speedy &
> handy.  I dont know what it's called.  Might be handy for medieval tent
> making & repair in the field.
>
 Is this what I tend to call ,perhaps wrongly, as a "stitching awl" like a
heavy handle spike but with a hole or hook near the point. I have seen them
used for stitching bales of things like cotton and wool; It is pushed
through and the free end is pulled and looped back and doesnt need knotting;
Also I have seen a similar but smaller thing used on those big rope fenders
they used to have on boats before old car tyres?
I am sorry this list is turning into "old tools"
Dave

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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 14:25:55 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: a Sailor's Palm described
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

"Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com> wrote:
>...Well conjectured!  It's a leather or canvas strap that partially covers
the
>palm & back of hand; it fits across or around 2 fingers and is anchored at
>the wrist.  (Gymnasts and trapeze people will recognize this style
>handguard - protection from ripped callouses.)  On the Sailor's Palm, at the
>base of the thumb there is a small cup (maybe 3/4"), in hard rubber or
>plastic.

A good description, although mine doesn't have such a cup.  Mine has what
looks
like the end of a metal thimble wrapped in rawhide.

Marc
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com


I'm often surprised at how "normal" many of the people I know who are into 
costuming  look out of costume, although, given my mostly monochromatic 
wardrobe, many folks I know would probably say the same about me...what can I 
say, my mom dressed me in pastels as a kid and I've been rebelling ever 
since.  ;-)

80 percent of my wardrobe is black: velvet dresses of all shapes and styles, 
40s rayon dresses, 90s cotton dresses, platform flip flops, a multitude of 
granny boots, clunky heels, mules, brocade jackets, leather jackets, long 
straight rayon skirts, "slinky" a-line skirts, Chinese blouses, oxford 
shirts, pirate shirts, t shirts , etc., all in black.  The rest is more of 
the above styles in olive, red, wine, purple, navy or chocolate brown. And 
occasionally checkerboard black/white.

Most of the skirts I wear for everyday I make myself, mostly bias cut a-line 
short or long skirts with elastic waists.  Made many of the dresses myself 
too, usually little 40s styled fit & flared numbers.  Those I don't make I 
find in vintage/thirft stores or in  boutiques or even at target.  I don't 
wear pants or jeans much, I just don't think they're very flattering or 
comfortable.  In the winter I might wear wool men's styled pants but that's 
about it. 

I do sometimes incorporate costume elements into what I'm wearing but mostly 
for special occasions.  A velvet cape or cocoon coat over an evening dresss 
for example.  One outfit got a lot of complements at a lounge show I went to 
was a scarlet teens era jacket with a matching miniskirt I made and red fez. 
I've been known to wear my Victorian or regency dresses to special occasions 
as well.

I think it's great that the girls today are wearing something more orginal 
than the typical boring old prom dress.  Who knows, the recent glut of 
costume movies may inspire a whole new generation of costumers...

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com

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To: H-Needlework@Ansteorra.ORG
Cc: H-Costume@indra.com, nlazarus@home.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: [STEPS] Gold thread
Message-ID: <19990914.120054.4791.3.cley@juno.com>
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Please send replies to Rose at nlazarus@home.com, and thank you for your
help! She is not on this list.
		

				yis,
			
					Arlys


--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
To: Naomi Lazarus <nlazarus@home.com>

On Tue, 14 Sep 1999, Naomi Lazarus wrote:
 Does anyone know where I can get _real_ gold thread, suitable for
couching
 and lace-making? I mean actual gold wire, drawn fine enough for these
 purposes? I have a project that I have been going to great lengths to
make
 from period materials, and I would really hate to have to finish it with
 plastic-wrapped cotton-poly crap from the fabric store. I also need a
 price estimate, if that's possible. (This could easily cost more than
 everything else combined.)

___________________________________________________________________
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-Poster: KaosWarior@vcnet.com

>-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>I believe that this is not possible in the US/ most of my US bought shirts
>suddenly cease just below the waist; My UK ones have full tails which drape
>in a curve down to mid thigh.. Perhaps this is something that dropped at the
>time of independence. But then you are very particular about your
>politicians.
>Dave
>
>L.D.Mundy

No, it's just that the CEO types feel its wasteful on something that can't be
seen and are so cheap that they don't care about making things well, but cut
corners so they won't have to "cut" into the bottom line  ;-)

just cheap arse bas---ds!


just my $.02
Scott


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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <v01530500b4045f96f691@[209.239.238.110]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost: "Bum-cleavage"
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



 > -Poster: KaosWarior@vcnet.com
>
 <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
> >
 US bought shirts
> >suddenly cease just below the waist  >
> No, it's just that the CEO types feel its wasteful on something that can't
be
> seen and are so cheap that they don't care about making things well, but
cut
> corners so they won't have to "cut" into the bottom line  ;-)
>
> just cheap arse bas---ds!
>
 AAHa At last the derivation of the this particular well known saying is
made clear to me I thank you.
Dave

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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 14:10:56 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costuming: prof. or amateur
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

          I don't even consider myself worthy of the title yet.  'Nuff
said?  I do it because I am interested in the clothing, and in learning to
sew/tailor better.-- Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 16:01:09 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 16:05:51 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabethan - military buttons
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Another problem with having Queen Bess issue that order is that there
were no military uniforms at that time. Individual comapnies might have
worn some form of their officer's livery, but England itself had no
standing army, so Bess couldn't have mandated anything concerning them.

Karen

On Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:56:47 +0100 "LDMundy"
<dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk> writes:
> 
> -Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
> 
> 
>   I have heard this one several times but never traced a source;; 
> Its not
> practical either  else they would be all the way up the arm; 
> soldiers use
> the upper sleeve just like the rest of us.
> Dave>
> 
> >
> > -Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
> >
> > I've once again come across the assertion that Elizabeth issued a 
> royal
> > command that military uniforms have a line of buttons on the 
> sleeves to
> > prevent soldiers from wiping their noses on their sleeves.  I've 
> seen
> > this statement several times, but it's never been footnoted to 
> track
> > back to the original.  Fact or folklore?  If fact, where is it
> > documented?
> >
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 14:14:45 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: (was red head) 1997 list statistics
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 02:34 PM 09/14/1999 -0400, you wrote: -Poster: "Penny Ladnier"
<penny.creative.outlets@erols.com> In 1997, ... <snip> ... the majority of
people were hobbyist. ... <snip> with California carrying the largest
amount.  
            And red-headed, either by nature or by choice, for the most
part.  Very interesting... what other factors may we find in our
explorations of this topic ?  Carol 

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: What to do with a Uniquely You
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 99 21:18:17 GMT
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com

Ah, maybe you can help me! It sounded like you've done quite a bit of reshaping 
of your Uniquely You

"Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com> wrote:
> Some modifications:
> I have reshaped mine somewhat [snipped]

    Here's my problem: I bought the largest size they have, which still needs 
to be padded up a bit to get to *my* size - I think there's a 6" difference at 
the hip, among other areas.
    So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that will hold 
but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it, 
obviously I can't just patch it here and there. I'm not sure that just wrapping 
foam batting/polyfill would be substantial enough.
    Any ideas?
    -Judy Mitchell


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Subject: H-COST: What to Do with a Uniquely You
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 99 14:28:46 -0700
x-sender: gdecamp@shell12.ba.best.com
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-Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>


Cynthia Barnes (hi Cin!)  wrote:

>Do not get anything *except* an Uniquely You. They're fantastic!  Expensive,
>tho'. Here's how to share: buy 2 covers for the dummy.  When it's your turn
>w/ the dummy, take your friends cover off, put your cover on.

I respectfully beg to differ; I think that if you try this, you will find 
it a
big pain in the patootie. (Sue Toorans and I ordered one for me, then made
the cover for it and applied the cover to the form in an extended 
two-person
versus-one-dress-dummy wrestling match, complete with grunting, sweating,
struggling, and many more obscenities than I usually admit that I know. )
Now I refuse to lose or gain weight, because if I did we'd have to refit 
the
dang cover and get it back on the dummy. 

My humble opinion: Bite the bullet and buy one for each of you. If you 
can 
find a used  one, you can probably do this cheaply. 

Good luck!

Gail DeCamp




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-Poster: rima@anet.net


>> Karie Mitchell wrote:
>>
>> I have some other questions:
>	1.  How many on this list do costuming professionally?
>	2.  How many are doing this as a hobby?'
>	3.  How many hours do you devote to sewing?

Wow.

1.  Not me.  Although if one more person asks if they can buy my Ca.1550
men's shirt (w/lace and pearls) off my back, I might reconsider!

2.  About two years ago I looked in the mirror and realized I was wearing
GAP.  I had been assimilated by the Borg.   I vowed never to wear jeans and
a T again!   Now I make my own stuff, and since there are hundreds of years
of styles to choose from, I just go for what I like.

Horrifying, I know, to most SCA folks, since I'll wear a 1550 shirt with a
1750 coat (yeah, men's, even though I'm a gal), shoes from 1650 and pants
that just plain work for me. But hey, at least I KNOW it's wrong.  And say
so, if someone asks.

Love those houpelands too!   And those Italian Renaissance
gowns....and....and....

3.  Not enough.  I run two little companies (yeah, two.  *sheesh* what was
I thinking????), so basically I set aside a day a month or so and do
nothing BUT sew.  Wish it were more.  But then I spin and weave too, so
it's amazing I get anything done!  Or that my darling hubby hasn't put me
out!

Hey, any of you pro's out there know where I can find someone to make me a
pair of shoes for me!  Something vaguely Rembrandt/Restoration - heel, high
vamp, square toe?  I've had great luck with folks building shoes for me,
but I can't find anyone who has the wherewithall to do this period.

Thanks guys!  Love reading this list!

Rima


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-Poster: rima@anet.net

Michelle answered me:

>>OK, so who knows of a terrific dress form that 's out there, that's easily
>>adjustable between two women's sizes - my friend and I wanna share, but
>>she's 4 inches taller and thinner!
>>Rima
>

Yeah, we'll have to get out the tape measure and learn the ugly truth!
Glad to know height won't be a factor, though, since my pal is 4 inches
taller than me!

>   I think it really depends on how much of a size difference there is
>between you. I think most of them are made to cover a small range of sizes.
>Height doesn't matter so much.
>  I was wondering thought,  How are you go to do this without a fight?  I
>don't think I could share. ;) I would want it ALL the time!

LOL!

Well, we're good pals, and have wildly different skeds.  Funny thing is, we
both have teeny cars, both convertibles, so I have a feeling a lot of
people are gonna see us driving down the roads with tops down, and dummy in
the passenger seat!

Zelda asks:

>Has anyone handsewn a corset, dresses or doublet?  Any advice
>>would be helpful.  Especially about handsewing in an authentic manner (if
>>I'm stuck doing it, why not have a little fun with it!!) or materials or
>>methods to avoid.
>>
>>Zelda
>  Back stitching is a must for the corset.

I've done this.  A long time ago.  Outta time for such things these days.
*sigh*  Actually, I think it's BETTER for really fitted garments, since
handstitching is a little stretchier than machine.

There's a neat little book on handsewing that I got from Townsend.  Sorry,
don't have it in front of me, but it's got everything you need to know, and
cost about $5.

And Carrie says:

>No, I don't own a neon pink spandex crushed velvet minidress...

There, see!  Others have escaped from the Borg too!  ;-D

Rima


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-Poster: rima@anet.net

Merouda answers:

>Gabardine is not a fulled wool but a very fine weave.  My dictionary says that
>it is a worsted cotton, wool, or rayon twill cloth.  Don't know what they
>might
>have called it in the 14th century but twill weaves are certainly appropriate
>for that time.  Very appropriate in fact.

If I remember correctly from my weaving books, fulling showed up, in
England, anyway, around 600.    Somewhere around 1100 (maybe earlier, but I
know they had it by then) they had figured out how to hook up fullers
mallets (for pounding the cloth to "full" but not "felt" it) to waterwheels.

See, after you weave wool, you want to "lock" the fibers together to make
it strong, but you want to do that without "felting" the fabric so you can
no longer see the weave.  Wool reacts to both agitation and especially to
heat.  So, depending on how you agitate, pound, and heat your wool, a
fabric woven one way, but fulled in another can look and feel quite
different from it's sister from the same loom.

Dave said:

>The large bales of wool are supported on slowly rotating beams while being
thumped by huge water driven trip hammers. The whole contraption is built
>over the river  and the bales are constantly wetted ;

That part's right, but:

>I think but I am may be completely wrong that it was here that I was told.-
Human urine was collected from the ale houses to soak the wool in prior to
>fulling and that the best came from the houses where strong ale
>was drunk;
I am trying to remmeber if this is correct or it is a story that I picked up
>somewhere completely different; Any ideas?

Well, urine was collected to make amonia for cleaning in general.   I'm not
sure I'd want to use something that strong on wool.  Maybe MAYBE to wash
the wool before spinning if it were really greasy????  But you'd have to be
careful.  Wool's a pretty delicate fiber.

Someone also asked:

>Can worsted be fulled? I had the impression that it could not.

OK, this one I know:

Worsted has to do with how the thread is spun in the first place.    You
can spin "woolen", in which the ends of the fibers are allowed to stick out
of the thread, or "worsted", in which they  the ends of the fibers are
caught in the twist and few escape to stick out.  Think "fuzzy" and
"slick".  Which is why "worsteds" don't make you itch as much - they don't
have all those fuzzy ends sticking out.

And finally, someone asked if there was a spinner's list.  Probably.  But
there are tons of fiber folks, spinners, weavers, and felters on the
Weaving list. Go to http://www.quilt.net/weaving.html - great bunch o'
folks there.  Just saved my hinie on something I'm about to weave.

Rima
Spiderwoman Weaver and Spinner (with the most yummy merino wool on my wheel
this week, spun "woolen"!)


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Costuming: prof. or amateur
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/14/1999 11:27:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
janicedals@mediaone.net writes:

<< I suppose I might come under the catagory of talented volunteer,
 as I work with non-profit groups that rarely can afford to pay me.  I've
 gotten the odd honorarium or travel expenses and occasionally get paid
 for a workshop.  My husband is the bread-winner in the family. >>

Like Janice, most of my costuming has been for non-profit groups that pay me 
only a nominal fee, or reimbursement for out-of-pocket.  Recently, however, 
I've been hired for three jobs running which all paid fairly well and were 
very rewarding, but no more so for being paid.  I'd consider Janice a 
professional "semi-professional."  Certainly the ability to do fewer jobs 
well is preferable to me, rather than doing lots of jobs, frantically hoping 
I'm doing them justice, but needing the money.  Not that everyone is in this 
position, but it can happen, given the low pay scale for costumers.

At the end of the day, the main difference seems to be that my patient and 
wonderfully supportive husband feels less stressed out that the (insert 
tremendously costly but marvelously perfect period item) that I purchased 
myself because we just had to have it for the show, didn't cost HIM anything!

I'd do it paycheck or not, but really must say I love the added bonus of 
being compensated on some level for my skills, especially when it gives me 
yet another excuse to support my not insubstantial jewelry/fabric/other 
costuming goodies "habits" !!

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"So far as my coin would stretch; and where it would not
I have used my credit."
King Henry the Fourth; I, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 16:58:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 18:07:38 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 11:22 PM 9/13/99 PDT, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
>
>Hullo
>
>Delurking a bit here to ask -- What is a sailor's palm and where can I find 
>one? Sounds like it could be something I can really use. I'm one of those 
>people who can't stand to use a thimble. They make my fingertips itch. 
>Besides, I need to actually feel what I'm stitching even if I end up with 
>pock marks in my fingertips (which go away after a while as my sewing 
>calluses begin to build up).
>
>Thanks
>
>Lonna
>
        A palm is sort of a palm thimble, and like any thimble it takes some
practice to get used to.  It has a  strap that fits over the hand.  Usually
that strap is connected by a staple, which is best removed and replaced with
stitches.  They can be got at good ship chandlers (sailing stuff) and some
leatherworking shops, though I understand those are getting harder to find.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 17:25:00 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST:  Some other questions.-answers
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 18:38:31 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

> How many on this list do costuming professionally?

I have occasionally made outfits for sale, but most people just aren't 
willing to pay what it's worth.  I have 'business cards' that I made up 
for personal use so people don't have to write stuff on a scrap of paper 
that'll get lost.  They have my society name, arms, phone number, email 
website, etc.  They also have a little line that says "seamstress 
extraordinaire - custom work at outrageous rates".  Now whenever anyone 
asks me "can you make me that?" I hand them my card.  If they still want 
to talk after reading that, then I'm willing to talk.  (Am I the only 
person who keeps getting asked to make stuff for people who say they're 
willing to pay, but who somehow think they're going to get a houppelande 
for thirty bucks?) 

> How many are doing this as a hobby?

That's what most of my costuming falls under.  Stuff I make for myself 
and my lord for use in the SCA.  An occasional gift for a friend.

> How many hours do you devote to sewing?

As others have said - not nearly enough.  Probably averaging about 8 
hours a month?

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 17:25:53 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

... <snip> ... the majority of
>people were hobbyist. ... <snip> with California carrying the largest
>amount.  
>            And red-headed, either by nature or by choice, for the most
>part.  Very interesting... what other factors may we find in our
>explorations of this topic ?  

I'd bet money that a statistically significant number of us are "plus size".

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 17:55:15 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:08:37 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Some other costuming questions.-answers
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/14/1999 3:39:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, irene@ici.net 
writes:

<< (Am I the only 
 person who keeps getting asked to make stuff for people who say they're 
 willing to pay, but who somehow think they're going to get a houppelande 
 for thirty bucks?)  >>

not hardly. I get people who say "I want to hire you, can you make this?" 
etc., and then they say "because I can't afford those Ren Faire prices"  Then 
I have to explain that while I balk at those "prices" it's only because I can 
save the labor if I make it myself. By the time they add my labor back onto 
the materials, they won't save any money hiring a seamstress.

it never hurts to try to educate them, but generally only those with a high 
value on aesthetics shell out the necessary cash.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Be not afraid of greatness; some are born great,
some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust 
upon them."
Twelfth-Night, II, v - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:   http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:09:56 EDT
Subject: H-COST: redhead hobby seamstress (sounds like a personal ad <G>)
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 9/14/99 5:41:54 PM Central Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

> I'd bet money that a statistically significant number of us are "plus size".

As a mostly lurker, I thought I'd chime in for a moment:

I am a hobby-seamstress. I mostly sew costumes for my husband, myself and 
various friends for renfaires. However, I've received enough requests for 
garb that I'm considering some simple stuff through the winter to sell to 
newbies as the season starts again.

I spend about 3 hours a week sewing.  If it's not garb, I'm stiching whatever 
is handy to keep my 7 year old in clothes--she has a remarkable way of 
destroying them! I also like to make my own clothes as long as they are not 
too involved-my skill is evolving.

I also do needlework. I'm learning to crochet and do a very simple level of 
blackwork.

I am not "plus size". In fact, I'm the opposite and fall into the petite 
category as I am a mere 5'2", 125 lbs. The thing that throws me when trying 
to purchase clothes (especially underpinnings) is that I am rather "well 
endowed" at 36DD-29-38. The perfect short hourglass <grin>.

I am, however, a redhead by choice! I am a natural dishwater blonde with 
blue/green/grey eyes depending on my mood. I've been an auburn redhead for 
about 5 years and don't know if I will ever go back. (I've known my DH only 2 
years--wonder what he'd think if I came home blonde??)

I'm truly enjoying this thread. It's nice to have mental pictures of those of 
you from whom I gather advice. It's even more rewarding to learn that a 
majority of this list are professional or semi- or mostly-professional 
seamstresses.

DaniG
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 17:59:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 18:17:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: off topic: a new toy
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


I just aquired (rather unexpectedly) a used New Home "streamliner" sewing
machine (a word of advice: don't buy sewing machines from thrift stores if
you don't have a car and your destination is several blocks away...) and I
find I know nothing really about the thing.  Has anybody had good or bad
experiences with one? Can anyone offer advice or a source for an
instruction manual? It works smoothly and quietly, and seems pretty
straight forward, but I'm curious about the thing.

Thanks for your time
Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:08:26 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Dimensions for Hedeby Dress Fragment?
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:22:08 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

I'm hoping someone will be able to help me with an obscure question.

I know that a fragment of a garment was found at an archeological dig at 
Hedeby.  I know it is widely believed to be from a Viking-era apron or 
tube dress, and I've heard different theories on how the dress should be 
reconstructed from this fragment.  The fragment in question looks 
approximately like so (bad ASCII art follows)

----------
|        |
|        |
|        |
|        |
|         \
|          \
|           \
|            \
|             \
|              \
|               \
-----------------

What I'm wondering is.. ..  Does anyone have any references that give the 
dimensions of this fragment?



Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:08:28 1999
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From: "Andrea navin" <medea6186@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: local medieval shop
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:21:46 EDT
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-Poster: "Andrea navin" <medea6186@hotmail.com>


You know what? That is a good question! Nothing really "authentic" (zippers 
anyone?). I think I will have to take a field trip down their this weekend 
(hopefully if I have time)! Oh what fun it will be to freak out the sales 
people with my clipboard and pencil:" Do you have any documentation for this 
outfit?"
Even better: I should bring a SCA-er with me!

Andrea (Maybe I'' hit the Victorian shop as well!)

But what, please tell, is sold at a "local
>medieval shop"? We don't have any around here, and I am dying to know!

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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <d4480e85.25102f75@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Some other costuming questions.-answers
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 17:35:39 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

> In a message dated 9/14/1999 3:39:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
irene@ici.net
> writes:
>
> << (Am I the only
>  person who keeps getting asked to make stuff for people who say they're
>  willing to pay, but who somehow think they're going to get a houppelande
>  for thirty bucks?)  >>

   By no means!  I make Elizabethan shirts for my DH - blackworked collars,
cuffs, shirtfronts; counted-by-thread pleats; embellished seams, every
single
stitch by hand, every blackwork design original and never worked again
(I usually really really HATE that pattern after finishing one garment with
it<G>)
an average of 300-400 hours of work.  Someone admires it and then adds
"what would you charge for one just like that?  Fifty bucks?"
   Um, sorry, but my great-great grandma made a better wage than that doing
piecework for southern cotton mills.......<G>

Liadain

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:11:17 1999
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From: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
To: "'H-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Boring clothes?
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:20:04 +1000
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-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>

On Fri, 10 Sep 1999, KATHARINE WHISLER wrote:

> 
> So, here's my question: how do you folks tend to dress in your everyday
> life, when you think you are dressed nicely?  Do you employ a
> fashionable/historical flair, or do you go for simple & basic?
> 
Finally catching up on these wonderful posts.

I have butt-length black hair (from a bottle) which presently has 4 blue
full length hair extensions in it - not the plaited ones, but they are long
and straight. My hair is naturly wavy.

I tend to also dress in long skirts - the longer the better. I'm always very
careful on the stairs at work to hold the hems up, as other people have a
habit of stepping on them.

I tend to favour more hourglass shapes, as it's what I have. I'd love to be
able to wear 20s, but my bust is waaaay to big for that. I wear black and
purple (yep, a goth). Lately I've been wearing a lot of 50s stuff - it's
still available in bigger sizes (yay). I also wear granny boots 99% of the
time, mostly as I have very bad arthritic ankles, and shoes just plain hurt.

For dressing up, my favourite is to mix and match modern and older clothes
to make a kind of fairy tale Victorian. Work usually finds me in a very long
skirt and tshirt, or sometimes a shirt, or long, flowing dresses. Most of my
sewing is costuming, but I'm trying to find time to make mundane stuff - the
prices in dept. stores are just *too* scary. If I do buy 'off the rack'
items, they are most likely from the ethnic-hippy stores - the kind that
make a fortune out of long velvet and crinkle rayon dresses.

Cheers
Georgia
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:17:15 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: <trekona@erols.com>, "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: What to do with a Uniquely You
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 16:29:05 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>

 Joan  >>> So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that
will hold
but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it,
obviously I can't just patch it here and there.

I just snipped & tucked & wrapped.  Didnt glue.  Personally, I'd experiment
w/ white glue for several reasons: it's water soluble (and therefore
undo-able), it's likely to be non-reactive as there are no alcohols, esters
or other solvents of plastics in it.  White glue wont be very pliable, so
this might not be a good solution in some body areas.  Experiment!

Wrapped w/ cotton quilt batt & medical tape - sticks to lots of stuff and
it's a throwaway solution to what are, for me, temporary adjustments.

I still havent got the perfect solution for making my Uniquely You emulate
the same amount of "dropped waist" that I have.  This is a common dancer's
fit problem.  The CF waist is slightly (~1") lower than the CB waist line.
Hanging skirts on grain on a dropped waist can be challenging.  It's even
harder when your dummy doesnt match the "target" body shape.

Grrrrrrrrr,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."


------------------------------

From: trekona@erols.com
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 99 21:18:17 GMT
Subject: Re: H-COST: What to do with a Uniquely You

- -Poster: trekona@erols.com

Ah, maybe you can help me! It sounded like you've done quite a bit of
reshaping
of your Uniquely You

"Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com> wrote:
> Some modifications:
> I have reshaped mine somewhat [snipped]

    Here's my problem: I bought the largest size they have, which still
needs
to be padded up a bit to get to *my* size - I think there's a 6" difference
at
the hip, among other areas.
    So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that will
hold
but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it,
obviously I can't just patch it here and there. I'm not sure that just
wrapping
foam batting/polyfill would be substantial enough.
    Any ideas?
    -Judy Mitchell


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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:19:50 1999
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To: <trekona@erols.com>
Cc: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: What to do with a Uniquely You
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 16:31:51 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


 Joan  >>> So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that
will hold
but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it,
obviously I can't just patch it here and there.

I just snipped & tucked & wrapped.  Didnt glue.  Personally, I'd experiment
w/ white glue for several reasons: it's water soluble (and therefore
undo-able), it's likely to be non-reactive as there are no alcohols, esters
or other solvents of plastics in it.  White glue wont be very pliable, so
this might not be a good solution in some body areas.  Experiment!

Wrapped w/ cotton quilt batt & medical tape - sticks to lots of stuff and
it's a throwaway solution to what are, for me, temporary adjustments.

I still havent got the perfect solution for making my Uniquely You emulate
the same amount of "dropped waist" that I have.  This is a common dancer's
fit problem.  The CF waist is slightly (~1") lower than the CB waist line.
Hanging skirts on grain on a dropped waist can be challenging.  It's even
harder when your dummy doesnt match the "target" body shape.

Grrrrrrrrr,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."


------------------------------

From: trekona@erols.com
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 99 21:18:17 GMT
Subject: Re: H-COST: What to do with a Uniquely You

- -Poster: trekona@erols.com

Ah, maybe you can help me! It sounded like you've done quite a bit of
reshaping
of your Uniquely You

"Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com> wrote:
> Some modifications:
> I have reshaped mine somewhat [snipped]

    Here's my problem: I bought the largest size they have, which still
needs
to be padded up a bit to get to *my* size - I think there's a 6" difference
at
the hip, among other areas.
    So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that will
hold
but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it,
obviously I can't just patch it here and there. I'm not sure that just
wrapping
foam batting/polyfill would be substantial enough.
    Any ideas?
    -Judy Mitchell


 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:23:14 1999
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 14 Sep 1999 trekona@erols.com wrote:

> 
> 
>     Here's my problem: I bought the largest size they have, which still needs 
> to be padded up a bit to get to *my* size - I think there's a 6" difference at 
> the hip, among other areas.
>     So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that will hold 
> but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of reshaping on it, 
> obviously I can't just patch it here and there. I'm not sure that just wrapping 
> foam batting/polyfill would be substantial enough.
You should look for a glue designed specifically for plastic, or a kind
called 'polystyrene cement'. If it's not available in the usual sort of
places try looking for it in model shops. 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Status:  hobby or professional?
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:43:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

>>I have some other questions:
>>How many on this list do costuming professionally?

>>How many hours do you devote to sewing?

I'm what you might call "semi-pro."  I do commission work and sell clothing
in the SCA, but it's not my main occupation.  Dress is, however, one of my
scholarly research interests, and if some university decides to hire me, I
guess I'll be partially a professional costume historian....

>>How many hours do you devote to sewing?


It's sporadic, but several hours a week (especially if you count needlework
in there--I've always got a project on the go on the nightstand).

Susan

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Subject: H-COST: Proffessional/hobby
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

I'm a pro, have been for about 17 years. You can tell by the threadbare
clothes,white never seen the light of day complexion, callouses on my
fingers and the permanently hungry expression. Oh and the fact that this
is my only social life as  I can't afford another.
My advice to anyone thinking of turning pro don't do it unless you have
a rich partner your own house no mortage etc and a law degree

Yours Cynically

Dawn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:38:54 1999
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From: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
To: "'H-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "'Benji'" <btscotton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: traumatized stories
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 09:48:09 +1000
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-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>

- -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

When I was a kid during WWII my Dad had a factory making duffle bags and
canvas water tanks for the troops in North. Africa.  We had BIG sewing
machines and they had BIG needles - remember that not only were they
industrial but I was very young.  I ran one of those for awhile.  Scared
s-less.  Never again.. I have seen people who got in the way of one of those
and had a needle go through their finger.
--

My partner and I have a nice saying about telling the difference between
domestic, semi-industrial, and industrial sewing machines.

The domestic is the one that stops, and the needle breaks when your finger
hits it.

The semi-industrial is the one where the needle breaks on/in your finger.

The industrial is the machine that sews straight through your finger, and
keeps going.

:-)

Enjoy (or not...)

Georgia
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 18:40:32 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 19:53:09 -0400
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: wool
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<< Wool's a pretty delicate fiber.>>

Actually, wool is a very sturdy fiber, unless the sheep had problems, and
grew a weak or tender fleece one year (in which case it should not be used,
and most mills would reject it.)

The one thing wool does not handle well is base -- acid has little effect
on it. The opposite can reduce it to shreds very  quickly. This is one good
reason for rinsing anything wool (but especially felt)  in water with a
dash of vinegar -- the mild acid counteracts any alkalinity from the
detergent (or urine, or ammonia, should you happen to use them.)

Bleach, by the way, will dissolve the cuticle, so if you want to "unfelt"
something, try Clorox.

Individual wool fibers can also stand unbelievable  amounts of incredible
pressure, so one of the ways of cleaning out vegetative matter is to run
the fiber (usually after it's been carded in to roving) through rubber
rollers of extreme pressure. The vegetative matter is crushed to dust, and
falls out. The wool doesn't notice.

<<Worsted has to do with how the thread is spun in the first place.  >>

Worsted has more to do with how the fiber is prepared before it's spun.
Worsted requires combing, not carding, by which the fibers are aligned, and
the shorter fibers are removed. The result is top, which can be spun into
fine, smooth, strong  yarn.

Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 19:35:11 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Status:  hobby or professional?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I consider myself a costume professional, I just don't seem to make  money
at it! 

I teach, lead workshops, and write about costume.  Unfortunately for me,
with such young children it's very hard to get sewing time and I don't have
the ability to stay up all night that I did when I was younger, so not much
sewing gets done.  

I recently took a summer sabbatical and did NOT make Ren Faire costumes for
the first time in years.  My family and I were able to go camping and
swimming, and not only did we not miss the income, but I think we actually
saved money because  we didn't buy a lot of convenience food and make a half
dozen emergency trips to the nearest JoAnne's, 40 miles away.  

I'm hoping to start a historical pattern  business soon, so most of my
energy is going into writing a business plan. You'd be amazed what it takes
to get those pieces of paper into the envelopes.  

Margo Anderson 


"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 19:39:04 1999
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Message-ID: <176da496.251047c9@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 20:52:25 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Not a red-head, and some other questions.
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

In a message dated 9/14/1999 10:01:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
allessandre@hotmail.com writes:

<< I have some other questions:
 How many on this list do costuming professionally?
 How many are doing this as a hobby?'
 How many hours do you devote to sewing?
  >>


I am a union professional costume designer for the entertainment industry,  
petite (5'3" and 120 lb.), am the mortgage payer on an obscene California 
mortgage (house prices here are out of this world and for nothing)! And have 
been the main breadwinner for the last 18 years. I guess that puts me in the 
minority of this group, as I do make my living this way. I will admit, for 
the last 9 years, I have also been a full time faculty member at the local 
college's Theater Arts Department, but I still free lance. Before becoming 
full-time, I was part time for 9 years addition to freelancing throughout the 
United States. In both cases, I have been the main bread winner. If I had my 
choice, I would make costumes (especially hats) for a living, but designing 
pays so much better. Guess, I sold out to the almighty dollar (and the 
mortgage and the kids schooling and Victoria's ballet lessons and Alexander's 
karate lessons, etc., etc.). I understand the frustration home operated 
businesses have concerning customers who do not realize your value. Stick to 
your guns and demand a decent wage for a decent product. It's the only way 
things will slowly change.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 19:41:52 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Redheads and time spent sewing
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-Poster: "Kathryn L. Herb" <kayherb@juno.com>



>I'd bet money that a statistically significant number of us are "plus 
>size".


Does being a plus-sized light brunette with a red-headed daughter count? 
<G>


And my contribution to the "what and how much" thread:


I don't spend as much time sewing as I'd like, as several have said. 
Depends on what needs to be done to the house -- right now it's replacing
half the roof.  <sigh>  I do sew for profit (yeah, sure):  mostly 18c
clothing, currently oddball stuff because it gives me some satisfaction
in hearing people say, "You make those? I didn't think anyone makes
those!"  Nothing spectacular, but things that are of some limited
audience and keep me from having to devote an inordinate amount of time
to orders.  The profit comes in with minor alterations to 20c clothing
and the occasional curtains and drapes.


I don't really call myself a professional, mostly because what I do is
done on my own time and at my own pace.  More than a hobbyist in the
sense of the authenticity level.  In my mind a professional is loosely
one who does a job on a nearly full-time basis.  Or is there such a thing
as a casual professional?  <G>


How much time on average do I spend sewing?  Probably comes out to about
eight hours a week or less.  Some weeks I forget there's anything more to
my house than my sewing room, other weeks I hardly see it.  Unless you
include research time.  Add about half the actual sewing time in that
case.


Do I make much of an hourly wage for my sewing?  No way!  I stopped
figuring that out long ago -- too depressing.  I nearly feel that I sew
for the enjoyment and the creativity, and any money I can make on it is a
bonus.  Of course, I do have a full-time job other than sewing, which
though it doesn't pay all my bills does make it a little less crucial
that I charge a grand amount.  I'd like to have the confidence and
business savvy to figure out what would be a decent amount, and then
charge it, but I'm very conscious of the folks who gave me a break when I
was first getting kitted out for reenactments, and I tend to pass that on
to others.


So that's my story.  I'm looking forward to hearing from more out there!


Kay
kayherb@juno.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 19:54:38 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:07:19 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: metal embroidery
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Whoops-!! Sorry for the confusion--!!!Wrong term --the whitework stuff was' 
broiderie angliase'--the early metalic thread technique I'm thinking of was 
properly called 'opus  anglicanum'--a particularly british form of embroidery 
which was so highly prized during the periods or 1250 to 1350 for 
eclesiastical garments.(I I should never trust my memory when I'm half 
asleep!)
sheepishly , 
albra
 .
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 20:04:20 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: Hair color
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I have very dark brown hair that's going grey but isn't grey enough yet to
look anything but drab. So I'm coloring it until I can have a head of
gorgeous silver hair like my mom's.  It's usually dark brown, but sometimes
I go for the auburn highlights, so can I count as a semi-partial wanna be
redhead?  

I've been considering the Clairol Natural Instincts Black Cherry colorant,
ever since someone told me it turned her grey hair bright purple.  Now THAT
sounds like fun!

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 20:19:57 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST:  Some other questions.-answers
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

>> How many on this list do costuming professionally?


Not me.  I would like to start a small business, but there are few items one
can make a living at.  For example, I just cannot replace my day job selling
chemises for $20 or $30.

>> How many are doing this as a hobby?'

I am currently of the hobby variety.  I have made costumes for many years,
and some clothing since I was about 10 years old.  My fitting skills have
not kept up with my changing body, but just today my newest book, "The
Costume Technician's Handbook" arrived, strongly suggested by someone who
taught a class in "Renaissance Tailoring" at Pennsic this year.  I hope it
helps my fitting problems. That and getting a proper dressmaker's dummy that
fits me.

>> How many hours do you devote to sewing?

Not nearly enough.  That 4 -letter word, work, gets in the way.


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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

Hi
Where could I buy a Uniquely you dressform? They sound useful.

jb

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 20:27:14 1999
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 14 Sep 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> 
> I've been considering the Clairol Natural Instincts Black Cherry colorant,
> ever since someone told me it turned her grey hair bright purple.  Now THAT
> sounds like fun!
> 
Well my brother tried that (he has dark blonde/light brown hair) and it
did indeed turn his hair a very dark purple that was quite noticeably
purple in the right light. I tried a similar colour (I have darker, 
reddish brown hair (yeah, chalk another one up *grin*)) and the effect was 
slightly more subtle. If you have fairly dark hair it could be a nice
darkish red with bright purple bits where the grey is *grin*

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

trekona@erols.com wrote:
> 
>     Here's my problem: I bought the largest size they have, which
> still needs to be padded up a bit to get to *my* size - I think
> there's a 6" difference at the hip, among other areas.
>     So my question is, what kind of glue can I use on this foam that
> will hold but won't dissolve the foam? I'm gonna need to do a bit of
> reshaping on it, obviously I can't just patch it here and there. I'm
> not sure that just wrapping foam batting/polyfill would be substantial
> enough.
>     Any ideas?

My dh's first question was "What kind of foam?  I use low temp hot glue
gun on most of my foam but there's also barge cement or goop (which I
like & it seems to work rather well or liquid nails" and when I said
"foam batting/polyfill" he said "spray glue".  It very much depends on
*exactly* what kind of foam you are using.  He thinks that if it's being
covered with cloth that the spray adhesive will do well as it won't
harden as some of the others would do.

Kat
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 22:46:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool stuff (Kinda long....sorry....)
In-Reply-To: <l0313030ab40466e17ec3@[216.2.96.40]>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Tue, 14 Sep 1999 rima@anet.net wrote:

> Someone also asked:
> 
> >Can worsted be fulled? I had the impression that it could not.
> 
> Worsted has to do with how the thread is spun in the first place.    You
> can spin "woolen", in which the ends of the fibers are allowed to stick out
> of the thread, or "worsted", in which they  the ends of the fibers are
> caught in the twist and few escape to stick out.  Think "fuzzy" and
> "slick".  Which is why "worsteds" don't make you itch as much - they don't
> have all those fuzzy ends sticking out.

That much I knew. But I'm afraid that *still* doesn't clue me in on
whether worsted can be fulled. Or -- perhaps a better question -- whether
it *was* fulled. Or even if it was made during the Middle Ages.  For
instance, if worsted could not be fulled very well, and fulled cloth was
valued, then worsted might not have been preferred. Anyone have any solid
evidence on the existence and/or use of worsted wools in the European
Middle Ages? 

And why do I have a vague memory that certain types of wool fibres (I
don't know if that means the type of sheep or something else) were better
for producing worsted than others? That is, it wasn't just a question of
making a decision when you sat down to spin; it may have been a question
of the characteristics of the wool you had to work with. If that's the
case, then I would think that certain places might specialize in worsted
wool, depending on the availability of the right sheep or whatever factors
went into producing wool that was suitable for worsted. Do trade records
indicate regional specialties of wollens vs. worsteds? I'm *completely*
out of my area here.

--Robin, curious

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From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: a Sailor's Palm described
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 08:18 PM 9/14/99 +0100, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>
> > -Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
> > There's another heavy-weight hand-sewing device usually stocked nearby.
>> Looks like a heavy duty tambour hook, but runs on a very heavy (sail
>weight)
>> "thread" that I certainly call cord; it's quite heavy.  Looks speedy &
>> handy.  I dont know what it's called.  Might be handy for medieval tent
>> making & repair in the field.
>>
> Is this what I tend to call ,perhaps wrongly, as a "stitching awl" like a
>heavy handle spike but with a hole or hook near the point. I have seen them
>used for stitching bales of things like cotton and wool; It is pushed
>through and the free end is pulled and looped back and doesnt need knotting;
>Also I have seen a similar but smaller thing used on those big rope fenders
>they used to have on boats before old car tyres?
>I am sorry this list is turning into "old tools"
>Dave
>

        Sounds more like a "bench Hook" which is used to hold the sail cloth
taught while it is being sewn.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 22:50:10 1999
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To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject:  H-COST: Re: Status:  hobby or professional?
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:02:10 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

I do sew professionally, just not costumes.  I subcontract to a designer,
because it's a surer paycheck right now than doing my own designs.  For a
couple of the first years was subcontracting, I was earning more than the
designer was!  It's shocking how much the good artisan clothing trade shows
are to do, as well as the travel, lost work, and the fact that most stores
expect you to bill them when you ship with no up front money at all.  So
stores try to send stuff back, cancel after the garments are already made,
ect.  I'm pretty fast at sewing, so when I'm in the swing I can get a good
bit done.  The downside if is that I'm not very good about working regular
hours, so I always seem to be working.   Right now I'm planning on going
back to college when my DH gets us settled in California, and I'm looking
forward to just sewing for us.  I've been told that the subcontracting laws
have gotten =very= weird in California, so it's not worth the hassle.

Kels

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Subject: H-COST: Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:29:25 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

> Though Hamlet is set in Denmark (14th c.?)
>>in SCA period, that version seemed to be set in the late 19th century.
It's
>>too bad that Brannagh is capable of such great work, but decides to
modernize
>>the settings.
>>
>
>>
>Why is this too bad?  Shakespeare's plays were not intended to be
>historical reenactments, they are theater.  Even when first produced,
Hamlet
>was probably performed in contemporary, 16th century clothing, not in 14th
>century styling.  Some very interesting productions of Shakespeare have
been
>set in other times and settings than those he intended, such as the fairly
>recent Richard II in a Facist setting, or the immortal Brothers Karamozov's
>All-Juggling Comedy of Errors.
>
>Im all for meticulous historical recreation, but there's room for much,
much
>more, and the theater and film is the place for it.

Oh, yes!  One of the last plays for Arizona Renassaisnce Theater that my DH
was in was Love's Labour Lost, set in the 1970's.  He played Armado the
Braggart in red and black zebra striped pants and vest, purple shirt and
platform black buckle shoes.  It isn't one of Shakespeare's best, but the
funniest bit was the start of the play where the prince and the other
fellows were making up all the silly proclamations against consorting with
women while high on marijuana, which finally makes sense!  And the part
where Borune is desperately wondering if the proclamations have been made
public yet, in the hopes that they can be changed, and one of the others
gives him a disgusted look and tells him "Three days ago, Duh!" ended up
getting a big laugh!

Kels

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 23:19:45 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Status:  hobby or professional?
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

Kels, contact me when you move to California. I hire costume technicians all 
the time. Miss Mela
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 23:20:17 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:34:29 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
> 
> I just aquired (rather unexpectedly) a used New Home "streamliner" sewing
> machine (a word of advice: don't buy sewing machines from thrift stores if
> you don't have a car and your destination is several blocks away...) and I
> find I know nothing really about the thing.  Has anybody had good or bad
> experiences with one? Can anyone offer advice or a source for an
> instruction manual? It works smoothly and quietly, and seems pretty
> straight forward, but I'm curious about the thing.

Emma, have you tried joining up with the Featherweigh Fanatics or
Treadle On lists?  Both are dedicated to particular machines (the former
Singer Featherweights, the latter people powered machines [treadles and
handcranks]) but both also have a wealth of knowledge in thier
collectors on line who can probably help you out.  I hang out on Treadle
On (own 1 treadle and 2 handcranks) and the group there is very
friendly.  I think both can be accessed thru the Quiltropolis.com
website.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 23:21:32 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:35:18 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> 
> I wanted to let you all have a sneak peek of our Online Costume Ball '99,
> http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/Guest1.htm
> 
> Enjoy... Penny
> http://www.costumegallery.com

Penny, is it too late to submit pictures for this year's costume ball?

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 14 23:28:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:38:26 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Sewing vs. home surgery
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

I've sewn through fingers a couple of times with an industrial machine.  It
does sound awful, and it's right up there alongside hitting your finger
with a hammer for discomfort, but it's not really a reason to avoid
industrial machines.  There is negligible danger of infection, because the
needle is so hot from its speed.  The needle is usually in and back out
before you know what happened.  I did have some trouble once when it went
through my nail and into the bone and then broke off, and then jammed the
blunt end back through my fingernail, but it was an excuse to stop sewing
for a while and go to the doc-in-a-box.  They just pulled the fragments out
and it healed right up.  The self-cauterizing makes the difference.

Of course it's way better to not sew through your finger in the first
place, and after a couple of "learning experiences" one does get a lot
better at keeping the fingers out of the busy bit.

Leslie
whose pain threshold might be a bit off normal, come to think of it.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 00:18:53 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Not a red-head, and some other questions.
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 22:30:11 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

>In a message dated 9/14/1999 10:01:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>allessandre@hotmail.com writes:
>
><< I have some other questions:

I wasn't going to chime in, but some of the replies have actually been fun
to read!  So, here I am adding my three bits.

> How many on this list do costuming professionally?

I work 75% time for pay at the University of Washington (Seattle WA) and
work  100% time at home for free (LOL!)  But I do have a business license,
so when people ask me to sew I make it easy on myself and tell everyone I
charge $20/per hour not including any supplies, materials or patterns.  If
they want me to draft a pattern (meaning from measurements to finished
pattern to take away), I charge $25/per hour.

Keeping it simple makes it harder to argue with ("What part of $20/per hour
don't you understand?" *LOL*<I don't really *say* this! tongue firmly
planted in cheek >)  So far, keeping it simple has worked...and I do have a
price break 'clause':  If the client actually takes the time to learn about
the details of making the garb 'period' and actually helps with parts of the
construction, then they get a small price break, based upon the number of
hours they contributed.  The price break is very 'situation specific' and
not everyone gets one.

> How many are doing this as a hobby?'

I also do this as a hobby.  My family (hubby, 15 yr old, 4 yr old) all get
garb and modern clothes made; and my 15 yr old has <*gasp*!> asked me to
make her Homecoming Dress!  I'm going through sewing machine withdrawals
right now ( it's in the shop *wahhhh!*), because I still do all my 'modern'
(not costuming) sewing by machine.  I do counted cross stitch, spinning,
weaving, needlepoint... and I'm sure I'm forgetting something...


My extended family puts in their 'order' for birthdays and
christmas...*LOL*!  They *know* that I may or may not get it done within the
same year as the request..

> How many hours do you devote to sewing?


It depends on how my fibromyalgia is acting up, if I have meetings to go to,
or if I have to play chauffer for my 15 yr old (who is very active in high
school!).  I can get anywhere from 2 hours to 4 hours of some kind of sewing
done every night.  More on the weekend, in the neighborhood of maybe 4 - 8
hours,  if I am not going to an event or not working with a person with
their costuming needs or fufilling other obilgations...like house work *g*.
It also helps me relax and makes me feel better since my dear husband works
2nd shift and is often working weekends and I miss him!

Gia/Giacinta

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 01:56:52 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 00:14:33 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: (was red head) 1997 list statistics
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Penny had written:

>> In 1997,...<snip>...the majority of people were hobbyist...<snip> with
>> California carrying the largest amount.  

Carol added:

> And red-headed, either by nature or by choice, for the most part.

I don't think that's a safe conclusion. There are over 600 people on the list.
The fact that about 20 are redheads does not give a majority. It merely means
that a lot of red heads have been posting on a thread about red heads. If we
started a thread on blondes, we might get a number of blondes posting. (Please
let's not.) ;-)

Even on delurking day, we had a number of new voices speak up, but nowhere
near a 'majority' of the list'.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Neat? Indeed!/Re: Ten-gore Greenland dress? Have pattern?
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 00:46:13 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

I love it and it's in my time period, too!

You've made my day.:-)

Thank you very much.

Lonna

>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>
>There's a website of it up at
>http://www.virtualelpaso.com/neverwinter/dress/dress.htm
>
>It's neat!
>
>Drea
>
>On Mon, 13 Sep 1999, L.L. Johnson wrote:
>
> >
> > -Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
> >
> >
> > >-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> >
> > <snip> 10-gore greenland dress
> >
> > This sounds wonderful. Where might I find more information on this? 
>Patterns
> > maybe? Whatever information you have will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks much
> >
> > Lonna
> >
> >
> > ______________________________________________________
> > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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> >
>
>
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Need information on Northern Spanish (Leon) garb; late 12th, early 13th C.
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 02:23:55 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>


Hullo all

I am writing on behalf of a friend of mine whose persona is from late 12th 
to early 13th C. Leon (Northern Spain). She has garb that works for now, but 
she would like to find information on some that is more authentic. It 
doesn't have to be from the height of fashion as her persona is traveling 
with a mercenary group as a combination fighter and medic. I hope I'm giving 
you enough to start on.

(Henk, is this time period within your specialty range?)

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much

Lonna

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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Bum cleavage"
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Janice

> - -Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
>
> Teddy,
> They wear their pants this way so they can say that their waist is
> still the same size as when they were in school.  Of course, for
> some reason their inseam has shrunk also. 

That doesn't seem to be the case over here.  You see it on men of 
all shapes and sizes from slim to huge.  A colleagues son 
summed it up when his mother took him shopping for trousers and 
jeans and tried to get him to wear them "properly" around his waist.

"Don't be so silly, Mum!  *Men* don't wear them like that!"

It seems to be the prevailing attitude.  *Men" wear their trousers 
around their hips (some take it to extremes) and that it is 
uncomfortable and effeminate to wear them arounf the waist.

I don't find it uncomfortable, but then perhaps the way I wear my 
trousers is why I've been mistaken for a girl for most of my life...<g>


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Not a redhead
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Ro follow up from....

> -Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com> 
>
> I am a brunette with blue-grey eyes.  I have dyed my hair red
> previously.  

Me too.  My hair gets "reddish" tints in summer (the bits that aren't 
turning grey...<g>) but Karrie and I have the same hair and eye 
colour and I too have dyed my hair red in the past (all but 
destroying a hotel bathroom in the process, but *that's* another 
story)

I'd love red hair and have tried most red shades (including a 
disasterous attempt at "strawberry-blond" that had my father throw 
me out) but since I stopped washing my hair, about 4 years ago, I 
haven't wanted to spoil the effect by using chemicals and dye on it, 
so it's brunette with a slight splattering of grey at one side.

Incidentally, as I hate grey (and *won't* wear it) and my eyes are 
far to grey for my liking, I've had violet, green and blue contact 
lenses (sometimes mixing them so each eye is a different colour)


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Uniquely You cover-struggle
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Oh Gail!

Thank you!  The mental image that this conjured up was 
*wonderful!*

> (Sue Toorans and I ordered one for me, then made the cover for it
> and applied the cover to the form in an extended two-person
> versus-one-dress-dummy wrestling match, complete with grunting,
> sweating, struggling, and many more obscenities than I usually
> admit that I know. ) 
>
> Gail DeCamp

<still chuckling>


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pro/amateur/time spent sewing
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Well, I'm not a prfoessional, I sew costumes for myself and friends 
mostly, with the occasional commission.

I'm dreadful at meeting deadlines so gave up on the idea of sewing 
for money on a regular basis.

How much time spent on sewing... Most of what's available.  
Evenings after work is where the machining gets done (weekends 
are usually taken up with events where I get to *wear* the 
stuff...<g>)  I do a certain amount of the pinning and cutting out at 
work during my lunch-break (something for the others in the staff 
lounge to watch).  Since I *hate* handsewing, I do as much as I 
can possibly get away with by machine (been known to spend an 
hour figuring out *how* to machine something rather than spend 10 
minutes hand-sewing it... but once I have it figured, I can use the 
method in future and save ever ahving to do it by hand...<g>) and I 
hate to be hand sewing when I could be zooming away ont he 
machine, I save my hand sewing for situations where I don't have 
acces to a machine.  As a result, I hand sew/finish on my two 40 
minute train journeys (to and from work) each day, as well as 
during my morning and afternoon teabreaks and my lunch hour.

The regular commuters on the train are used to me pulling velvet 
houpellandes or brocade renaissance gowns out of my bag and 
settling to sew the linings down or work on the hem, as are my 
colleagues when we go for tea or lunch (including at the pub across 
the road).




Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Foam (was What to do with a Uniquely You
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 99 12:50:45 GMT
Message-ID: <M.091599.085045.36@erols.com>
References: <000001befe13$5785c1d0$6b037a86@cbarnes.phoenix.com>
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com



> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> My dh's first question was "What kind of foam?  I use low temp hot glue
> gun on most of my foam but there's also barge cement or goop (which I
> like & it seems to work rather well or liquid nails" and when I said
> "foam batting/polyfill" he said "spray glue".  It very much depends on
> *exactly* what kind of foam you are using.  He thinks that if it's being
> covered with cloth that the spray adhesive will do well as it won't
> harden as some of the others would do.
    The dress form says that it's polyurethane, and the foam that I'd thought 
to pad around a bit is a high density cushion type foam from Hancocks.

    Thanks, folks, for all your ideas! This is great!
    -Judy Mitchell

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 08:50:18 -0400
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: wool again
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<< That is, it wasn't just a question of
making a decision when you sat down to spin; it may have been a question
of the characteristics of the wool you had to work with. >>

This is quite true. The long luster wools are more suitable forcombing  and
worsted spinning. Down wools are better for lofty yarns for things like
blankets and knit goods.

The regional differences in England affected where various industries were
located -- some were woolbroadcloth production centers, others were
stocking centers, etc.

<< Do trade records
indicate regional specialties of wollens vs. worsteds?>>

Yes, very much so, going back to medieval times at least.

You might try looking for information on the Kendal wool trade for starters.

Deborah


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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool stuff Kristin Page
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 08:44:35 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>


> > >Can worsted be fulled?

Depends on what you mean by "fulled".  Worsted is a harder yarn, usually
spun tighter than woolen yarn so the fabric seems to contract less.  But
yes, can be and was fulled.  

> valued, then worsted might not have been preferred. Anyone have any solid
> evidence on the existence and/or use of worsted wools in the European
> Middle Ages? 

Hedeby (Haithabu) in Germany, about 1000, described by Inge Hagg, London,
about 14th century, described by Crowfoot, et al.  Check archaeological
journals.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 09:10:22 1999
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Message-ID: <005d01beff85$824d7480$2c4faccf@e4c2n6>
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <006501befec0$dd47d1c0$b09faccf@e4c2n6> <37DF2206.511C9E46@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sneak Peek of Ball '99
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 10:20:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

> Penny, is it too late to submit pictures for this year's costume ball?

I am accepting entries until Sept. 21, next Tuesday. Time for all
procrastinators to make your move! If you need the directions to submit go
to http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm  If you are in
the Chesterfield, VA area, Saturday morning, I will be at the Henricus
Historical Park (second oldest settlement in VA).  They are having their
celebration and I will be taking photographs of the historic interpreters.
So if you come to the event in costume I can take your picture, too.  If you
need directions to Henricus Park, email me privately, today or early
tomorrow morning.  I do not know what our weather will be like tomorrow with
Hurricane Floyd coming in.

Hang on, Albert Cat, we are in for a bumpy ride with this hurricane.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 09:19:47 1999
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Message-ID: <009901beff86$f6e42540$2c4faccf@e4c2n6>
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909150118.SAA28070@zeus.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair color
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 10:31:11 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

> I've been considering the Clairol Natural Instincts Black Cherry colorant,
> ever since someone told me it turned her grey hair bright purple.  Now
THAT
> sounds like fun!

Hey, I used the Clairol Cinnamon color and had my hair take on a
red-purplish hair.  It was hard to hide three feet of purplish hair for two
weeks until I could color again.  The college kids loved the color!  I have
changed to L'oreal dyes and haven't had a problem.

Later... Penny


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 09:41:48 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>, "Fantasy" <f-costume@indra.com>,
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Subject: H-COST: Reminder of Cybercast
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 10:48:12 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I just wanted to remind you all of the cybercast today at 3:30 EST,
http://video.hec.ohio-state.edu/index.html .
The Ohio State University's Historic
Costume and Textiles Collection in the College of Human Ecology will
broadcast the premiere of "Scaasi: The Joy of Dressing Up," a video
presentation of the Collection's exhibition from October 8, 1998 through
February 27, 1999.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 10:09:14 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 10:30:28 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Tengores and Spanish clothes
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

I'm sorry, I know this is going to sound totally pissy, and I
apologize for that, the term "10 Gore Dress" offends me in much
the same way that "Bog Dress", "T-tunic" and "Apron Dress" (when 
misused) affects some others.  The Herjolfsnes no.41 does not 
have 10 gores, it has two.  It has eight side pieces, just like the 
Herjolfsnes no.38, and essentially the no.39 (although the latter 
blends them into only two side pieces).

I realize that's what the author of the article (Linda M. Blowney)
called it, and I'm not criticizing that.  It made perfect sense
for the article she wrote.  However, using it as a default jargon 
term forever after doesn't help trying to teach people that it has
a name, and that there were a few more contemporaneous outfits
that were excavated along with it.

Enough of that.  

Although I really hate continually mentioning it, there is a small
section depicting the spanish garments from the "Museo de Telas Medievales, 
Monasterio de Santa María la Real de Huelgas" (which are about the right
era asked for, at least) at the website "Some Clothing of the Middle
Ages" (http://www.geocities.com/athens/parthenon/5923/cloth/bockhome.htm)

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 10:23:33 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 08:34:41 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: (was red head) 1997 list statistics
In-Reply-To: <37DEE4E7.D6B47809@pacbell.net>
References: <19990914170029.22800.qmail@hotmail.com>
 <E11Qzwa-0003NZ-00@mongoose.slip.net>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:14 AM 09/15/1999 +0000, you wrote:
>I don't think that's a safe conclusion. There are over 600 people on the
list.
>The fact that about 20 are redheads does not give a majority. It merely means
>that a lot of red heads have been posting on a thread about red heads. If we
>started a thread on blondes, we might get a number of blondes posting.
(Please
>let's not.) ;-)
>
>Even on delurking day, we had a number of new voices speak up, but nowhere
>near a 'majority' of the list'.
>
>Regards,
>
>Dietmar
               You're right, of course.  -- Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 10:55:48 1999
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Message-ID: <003e01beff94$a128c940$5253ccd1@ouppc>
From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <006501befec0$dd47d1c0$b09faccf@e4c2n6> <37DF2206.511C9E46@worldnet.att.net> <005d01beff85$824d7480$2c4faccf@e4c2n6>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sneak Peek of Ball '99
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 12:09:00 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

Penny,

Would you mind if I send this message along to the Ladies' Tea and Rhetoric
Society list?  Some of the ladies there have just finished up some beautiful
Victorian outfits and I bet they'd love to "attend". =)

Hoping the hurricane passes you all by,
Kerrie
----- Original Message -----
From: Penny Ladnier <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sneak Peek of Ball '99


>
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> > Penny, is it too late to submit pictures for this year's costume ball?
>
> I am accepting entries until Sept. 21, next Tuesday. Time for all
> procrastinators to make your move! If you need the directions to submit go
> to http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm  If you are in
> the Chesterfield, VA area, Saturday morning, I will be at the Henricus
> Historical Park (second oldest settlement in VA).  They are having their
> celebration and I will be taking photographs of the historic interpreters.
> So if you come to the event in costume I can take your picture, too.  If
you
> need directions to Henricus Park, email me privately, today or early
> tomorrow morning.  I do not know what our weather will be like tomorrow
with
> Hurricane Floyd coming in.
>
> Hang on, Albert Cat, we are in for a bumpy ride with this hurricane.
>
> Later... Penny
> http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 11:09:09 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 12:21:40 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Need information on Northern Spanish (Leon) garb; late
	12th, earl...
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< I am writing on behalf of a friend of mine whose persona is from late 12th 
 to early 13th C. Leon (Northern Spain). She has garb that works for now, but 
 she would like to find information on some that is more authentic. >>

"Museo de Telas Medievales" by Concha Herrero Carretero (Madrid:  Patrimonio 
Nacional, 1988) shows, in color, some of the garb from the tombs of the 
13th-century Castilian nobility.

Nancy
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Subject: H-COST: Reminder of Cybercast
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 99 11:04:00 -0000
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>

Hi Penny,

     I didn't pass along your note to Costume DC because it's not a local 
thing. Lots of Costume DC members are on other lists, so I'm sure they 
got the word!

     -Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 12:00:14 1999
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Old-post: Eleanore di Toledo's son: question
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

I can't remember who posted the question about what the child in 
the portrait of Eleanore di Toledo is wearing....

I just had a chance to look at a clearer copy of this picture than I 
could get hold of at the time this was asked about.

To me, it looks like a white shirt (with an embroidered collar) a 
reddish coloured garent (or just sleeves, as it is only visible in the 
gaps where the brown over-garment sleeves are tied on and around 
the wrists) and a brown dress or skirted doublet with matching 
pointed in sleeves.

I'd guess, from the apparent age of the child, thathe's still young 
enough to be in skirts so it's a dress he's wearing.  Since only a 
small portion of the skirts can be seen (by his right hand), however, 
it *could* be a longish doublet-skirt rather than a dress.

Anyone else any views on this.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

I think, Marc, that you'll have about as much luck with this terminology
change as folks who remind the public at large are having, telling them
that the Millenium doesn't start for another 14 months -- they may be
right, but no one is listening.

As for my own opinion, even if the side pieces aren't precisely
triangular, they are fairly close, and I have no problem including them
in the count of 10 gores on this dress.  Is it that you'd rather see it
labeled "Herjolfsnes #41" every time it gets mentioned, or that you'd
rather see it called "8 side-piece dress?"

cv
--
It's nearly time for October Fools' Day -- the Southern Hemisphere
version of April Fools' Day.
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Subject: Re: H-COST: traumatized stories
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/14/99 6:55:10 PM EST, Harveyg@acer.edu.au writes:

<< The industrial is the machine that sews straight through your finger, and
 keeps going.
  >>
But it's a nice clean puncture and heals up rather quickly if you don't make 
the mistake of jerking your finger away as I did and and losing a chunk of 
your finger.  That happened 20 years ago.  I didn't do it again until last 
spring.  16 hour days and all the stress of that.  Anyway this time it went 
through the thumbnail and out the other side.  Healed nicely in a week.  No 
moral here just enjoy telling the uninitiated.  Cheryl Odom
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990914170029.22800.qmail@hotmail.com><E11Qzwa-0003NZ-00@mongoose.slip.net> <E11RH76-0006R1-00@mongoose.slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: (was red head) 1997 list statistics
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 18:10:03 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

 However I propose that those of us who are follicly challenged are a
definite minority. Undeniable
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
  > >The fact that about 20 are redheads does not give a majority. It merely
means
> >that a lot of red heads have been posting on a thread about red heads. If
we
> >started a thread on blondes, we might get a number of blondes posting.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 13:12:58 1999
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tengores and Spanish clothes
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 13:56:59 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

> in the count of 10 gores on this dress.  Is it that you'd rather see it
> labeled "Herjolfsnes #41" 

I'd rather it be called Herjolfsnes " 41.  That would make it easier for
non-Americans to talk about it -- especially some of the folk who actually
have access to the artifacts.
'Nother point in favor of using the correct designation is that there is
more than one "10-gore dress" though the one shown in Kohler is most
frequently the one used by costumers, SCA and otherwise.

Kristin Page
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 13:57:44 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 19:41:02 +0100
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Onion skins
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

Hello all.  I'm not even going to think about telling you how little
sewing I actually do - can we make that hours per year, rather than per
week?

Anyway, my DH has decided he's going to Hastings 2000, and wants to
natural-dye some of his kit with onion skins.  He's started collecting
them in an airtight biscuit tin, but my worry is that they will go
mouldy before he has enough to do anything with.  Can anyone reassure
me, or tell me the tricks to make sure they don't turn into something
oozy and disgusting that tries to take over the kitchen? 

I wouldn't want to discourage him, since it's the first time he's ever
started making something more than two weeks before the event :-)

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <006501befec0$dd47d1c0$b09faccf@e4c2n6> <37DF2206.511C9E46@worldnet.att.net> <005d01beff85$824d7480$2c4faccf@e4c2n6> <003e01beff94$a128c940$5253ccd1@ouppc>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sneak Peek of Ball '99
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 15:16:57 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>


> Would you mind if I send this message along to the Ladies' Tea and
Rhetoric
> Society list?  Some of the ladies there have just finished up some
beautiful
> Victorian outfits and I bet they'd love to "attend". =)

Please do!  You have have my permission to post my message about the Costume
Ball to other lists.   If anyone is on the SCA list, please post it there.
It would be fun to have some of them too.  Sue Shatto send me photos of
their Victorian Tea for the Ball.  They are beautiful!  The purpose of the
Ball is to celebrate the costuming industry.  We want to show everyone our
industry does more than witches and vampires.

Back to tieing my lawn furniture down and bringing in the plants.  We have
had rain (feeder bands) since early  this morning. My kids just came in and
said school is canceled for tomorrow.  I went to COSTCO and bought the
batteries.  We rarely get the winds from hurricanes, but we are expecting
50+ sustained winds tomorrow morning.  I guess all those hanging dead limbs
from last winter's ice storm will finally come down.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm



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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 12:36:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sneak Peek of Ball '99
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I'm waiting with open ears to see what we in New
England are going to get... I love the forecast *you
may get a few sprinkles or you may get hurricane force
winds*  gee, thanks, that helps!

Good luck to all in the hurricane band... use the time
to make something beautiful! ;-)

Sarah


> Back to tieing my lawn furniture down and bringing
> in the plants.  We have
> had rain (feeder bands) since early  this morning.
> My kids just came in and
> said school is canceled for tomorrow.  I went to
> COSTCO and bought the
> batteries.  We rarely get the winds from hurricanes,
> but we are expecting
> 50+ sustained winds tomorrow morning.  I guess all
> those hanging dead limbs
> from last winter's ice storm will finally come down.
> 
> Later... Penny
>
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
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> 

__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <sDY51AA+g+33Iwhc@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 20:37:47 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


>
> -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
> Hello all.  I'm not even going to think about telling you how little
> sewing I actually do - can we make that hours per year, rather than per
> week?
PER Week? I thought it was per day, better rewrite my answer times 7>
> Anyway, my DH has decided he's going to Hastings 2000, and wants to
> natural-dye some of his kit with onion skins.  He's started collecting
> them in an airtight biscuit tin, but my worry is that they will go
> mouldy before he has enough to do anything with.  Can anyone reassure
> me, or tell me the tricks to make sure they don't turn into something
> oozy and disgusting that tries to take over the kitchen?
So that great amount of instructions being issued  for Hasting 2000 had
omitted something after all , What A Surprise;>
You have got off to a bad start I am afraid. You need fairly fresh onions
and ideally either Red ones or some of the old english varieties.( as they
say in Yorkshire 'slams the gate on the way out) Tesco onions are not great
for the job; you will need hundreds. They come from Morrocco Israel and all
kinds of places so they have done a lot of maturing on the way over; ie they
are edible but not fresh.
 You cant just collect em as you go along; I know it says you can in some
old books but they were eating them at a rate of more than one a week. They
will have rotted long before you have enough; also take US recipes with a
pinch of salt they have completely different varieties.
Why not take up pickling and buy two  big bags of shallots , they are
usually homegrown.
> I wouldn't want to discourage him, since it's the first time he's ever
> started making something more than two weeks before the event :-)
I would discourage him from doing it indoors anywhere let alone the kichen
otherwise you are going to live with some pretty unsavoury smells for an
awful long time ; I hope that you are not planning to sell the house in the
next couple of years.
Dave>
 >

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 14:30:01 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: Canadian Iceman update
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

Yesterday's newspaper had an update on the Canadian Iceman found on the 
Tatsenshini Glacier. Dating is still uncertain. The range is expected to be 
sometime between 250 and 5000 B.P. (Before Present), with early guesses 
favoring 2000 BP. The Champagne and Aishik First Nations, in whose 
traditional hunting territory the remains were found, have given their 
consent to have the ice man studied; they have dubbed him "Kwaday Dan 
Sinchi" (kwah-DAY dun sin-CHEE) which means Long Ago Man Found. The remains 
have now been moved to the Royal British Columbia Museum in Victoria for 
study; the body includes some soft tissue, but it's unclear from the article 
just how much. The remains of a moose and antlers that were found nearby 
have yet to be dated or linked to Kwaday Dan Sinchi. Sorry, no new info on 
clothing or other artifacts.

Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 15:02:15 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 16:19:17 -0400
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From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>

I suggest if you really want to try keeping them to tuck the tin in the 
freezer.

I used to dye baskets with walnut husks - the green part that turns dark 
brown as it ages.  It's the right time of year to be collecting them, and 
anyone with a walnut tree in their yard would love to have the husks 
carted off.  It produces a very very dark brown when I used them.  Use 
rubber gloves to pick up the walnuts or you'll stain your hands dark 
brown as well.  I used a metal garbage can with the husks and water, 
built a fire around it to heat the water and simmered baskets for about 
15 minutes to a half hour to get a deep brown.

Suppose a very few husks in a lot of water might produce a lighter colour?

Lisee

Jean Waddie wrote:

>
>-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
>Hello all.  I'm not even going to think about telling you how little
>sewing I actually do - can we make that hours per year, rather than per
>week?
>
>Anyway, my DH has decided he's going to Hastings 2000, and wants to
>natural-dye some of his kit with onion skins.  He's started collecting
>them in an airtight biscuit tin, but my worry is that they will go
>mouldy before he has enough to do anything with.  Can anyone reassure
>me, or tell me the tricks to make sure they don't turn into something
>oozy and disgusting that tries to take over the kitchen? 
>
>I wouldn't want to discourage him, since it's the first time he's ever
>started making something more than two weeks before the event :-)
>
>Jean
>-- 
>Jean Waddie
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 15:42:42 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Cybercast
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 16:51:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Did anyone watch the cybercast from Ohio State?  Any thought about how you
liked or disliked it?  I didn't have audio.  But I liked this one dress and
asked the curator who wore it.  The evening gown's were beautiful.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 15:47:53 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>, vintage@net.indra.com
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>




Dear Members of the list

I have been thinking long and hard about this and I have decided to start a
web page dedicated to Men's Costuming.  Much of the discussion of costuming
is aimed at the women, and I must admit that sometimes I feel like a second
class citizen.  So, what I am looking for is ideas, articles, links, and
anything else you can think of.  I don't want this to be a boys only club,
but I do want the focus to be on men's costume of any period.

Thank you for letting me take up your time, and I look forward to hear from
you all.

Oh, by the way, I mailed this note from work so if you want to respond off
list, please email me at 
madly@2xtreme.net.   That way I will be sure to get it.

Yours Stephen Bergdahl

"Well, the best laided plans of Mice."
"And Men."
"Men, what have men got to do with it!"
                                'Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy'



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 15:48:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 12:48:04 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Teddy wrote:

> Since I *hate* handsewing, I do as much as I can possibly get away with by
> machine (been known to spend an hour figuring out *how* to machine something
> rather than spend 10 minutes hand-sewing it...

I'm with you in that respect. I tend to use those moments when I've gone to
bed, but before I fall asleep to work out design engineering problems in my
head. (I figured out how to sew and turn a bag lined cotehardie without any
hand sewing this way.) Don't know why, but it tends to be the best of both
world. I usually work out the problem, and my mind gets a chance to relax and
I fall asleep faster.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: onion skin dyeing
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<He's started collecting
them in an airtight biscuit tin, but my worry is that they will go
mouldy before he has enough to do anything with.  Can anyone reassure
me, or tell me the tricks to make sure they don't turn into something
oozy and disgusting that tries to take over the kitchen? >>

Keep them in a ziplock bag in the freezer.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 16:05:48 1999
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-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>


If you're interested in spindle spinning, there is the Spindlitis mailing
list, managed and owned by Teri Pittman, tpittman@xws.com, who can help
you with subscription information.

Barbara Maren


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 16:39:59 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 16:53:37 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

Finally, a question I know the answer to. Well, sort of...
A woman I know who likes to use natural dyes told me she went to the 
supermarket and got permission to clean out their onion bins. She got a 
huge amount of onion skins that way.
Kim

At 07:41 PM 09/15/1999 +0100, you wrote:

>Anyway, my DH has decided he's going to Hastings 2000, and wants to
>natural-dye some of his kit with onion skins.  He's started collecting
>them in an airtight biscuit tin, but my worry is that they will go
>mouldy before he has enough to do anything with.  Can anyone reassure
>me, or tell me the tricks to make sure they don't turn into something
>oozy and disgusting that tries to take over the kitchen?
>
>Jean Waddie

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: finished object
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

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Finally a pair of trunkhose whose seat does not blow out.  My husband is in
the center of the picture with the green trunkhose and leather doublet.

 http://martin.dc.usweb.com/living_history/images/p0000883.png

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To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>, <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Subject: H-COST: FO: infant's elizabethan
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Here is my bundle of joy in a teal cotton gown with matching flat cap over a
coif.

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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>I've been considering the Clairol Natural Instincts Black Cherry colorant,
>ever since someone told me it turned her grey hair bright purple.  Now THAT
>sounds like fun!

Unlikely to turn your hair BRIGHT purple, even over the "grey", but it will
give the dark parts strong plummy-purple highlights in bright sun and the
"grey" parts a dark plummy-purplish cast.

My daughter, who has medium brown hair, has used it several times. I think
the color is lovely.

For those who work "real jobs", it won't be terribly noticable in an office
setting. The color is much more noticable in natural light.

I have dyed my hair purple with Manic Panic. It washed out too fast and
didn't add that much purple. "Natural Instincts", while not as purple, was
longer lasting and just generally much nicer.

Have fun!
Lilinah


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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <029801beffbc$23510780$2c4faccf@e4c2n6>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Cybercast
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 18:28:31 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 4:51 PM
>
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> Did anyone watch the cybercast from Ohio State?  Any thought about how you
> liked or disliked it?  I didn't have audio.  But I liked this one dress
and
> asked the curator who wore it.  The evening gown's were beautiful.

*sigh* No, despite my best attempts, a moody isp and equally moody small
children ultimately conspired against me.  Will there be stills posted
somewhere?


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From: "J. Karnelian" <karnelian@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Fwd: H-COST: Santa Cruz Renaissance clothes -Lothlorien
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-Poster: "J. Karnelian" <karnelian@hotmail.com>




>From: "J. Karnelian" <karnelian@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Santa Cruz Renaissance clothes -Lothlorien
>Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 19:05:04 PDT
>
>
>-Poster: "J. Karnelian" <karnelian@hotmail.com>
>
>     I am looking for contact information for a Renaissance/gothic clothing
>store in Santa Cruz which I think is called Lothlorien. Or something
>similar. The owner is a woman named Lorian. My  girlfriend makes clothes 
>and
>she was told that this store might be interested in her stuff. If anyone
>knows the adress for their website, or their e-mail, or their phone number,
>or regular postal adress, we would appreciate that information a lot.
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 18:40:37 1999
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From: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 19:55:02 -0400
Subject: H-COST: onion skins for dyeing
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-Poster: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>

I'm reading a backlog of digests in reverse order, so if someone 
said this, sorry for overkill.
 I've used onion skins a number of times for dyeing, from doing it in 
my kitchen for pleasure or for samples for competition, to doing it 
in Norse costume over a campfire in a copper cauldron in a 
museum setting.
 What you want to be using is the onion paper, the very fine dry 
outer skins, and the best way to collect and store them is in a 
paper bag, where they'll stay dry.The older they get, the stronger 
the concentration of colour will be. I normally store my onions in a 
bin, and just shuffle off the outer skin loose into the bin every time I 
use an onion. Occasionally, when the amount of onion paper 
makes it difficult to tell if I've any onions left, I scoop it all out into a 
paper bag and tuck it away somewhere. As dry papery skins, they 
have virtually no smell at all, and if there's no moisture and they're 
kept dry, they will last literally for years. (I keep discovering lost 
caches!)
 When you go to dye, just soak the skins up in water, even better if 
you can do it in the sun, like "sun tea", then heat up to simmer. 
The longer you soak and simmer, the stronger the dye bath. 
Onions are a nice dye because. being a food stuff there's no risk in 
using cooking pots and your kitchen, they will dye without a 
mordant, they're a good strong fast dye, and a historical one.
 Yes, you will get variations in colour because of type of onion and 
growing conditions. And you can control the colour to a degree by 
mordant, though I've always used pots as a mordant (I have dye 
pots of iron and copper,) rather than getting into the chemical 
mordants.
 I used onion dyes on some of the fabrics for the first set of 
costumes used in the interpretive program at L'Anse aux Meadows, 
to alter the colours of the fabrics, and make them more like 
clothing and less like costumes. (I'll confess on subsequent 
costumes, I've cheated some and used commercial dyes to 
overdye, since continual use and machine washing takes its toll!)
  Good luck!

 Vandy Simpson
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 18:41:32 1999
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-Poster: Dustins6@aol.com

In a message dated 9/15/99 3:45:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
agottfre@telusplanet.net writes:

<< Dating is still uncertain. The range is expected to be 
 sometime between 250 and 5000 B.P. (Before Present), with early guesses 
 favoring 2000 BP.  >>

I'll say it's uncertain <BG>. The difficulty of narrowing it down between 250 
- 5000 years looks to be one of those ambiguities that science just can't 
resolve, but a newspaper that uses the term " B.P. (Before Present) " as a 
reference point doesn't sound very credible or professional. Where did they 
come up with that? You'd think that type of article would have been 
approached in a more scientific manner. At any rate, it was an interesting 
discovery and I thank you for passing it along.
Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 18:48:42 1999
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>

Hello List,

	Apologies for coming in on this discussion so late; I have been
rather busy with work and unable to attend my lists.

	Just to throw a few points into the ring:

1.	Opus Anglicanum is a body of primarily English ecclesiastical
embroideries done from the period 800AD through to 1500. The peerless body
of work in this rather large opus is known as the Burgundian Vestments.
Anyone seriously interested in or nue and opus anglicanum should study
these vestments.

2.	Gold thread embroidery has been used from ancient China through to
modern day. Even medieval embroideries used not only silver-gilt thread
(the spun thread to which many of you refer), but gold wires as well. Close
examination of many of the garments heavy with gold embroidery will easily
reveal this fact.

3.	There are many types of gold threads: silver-gilt, as pointed out
numerous times on this list, purl (the coils to which many of you refer),
jaceron (a sort of zig-zag coil) and facconee (a sort of a box coil) as
well as flat gold wires. Any of these latter three may be couched on as is,
or pulled out slightly to allow spaces between the coils to appear, thereby
creating more glitter. This latter method of couching was very fashionable
during the Elizabethan era. Lots of glitter effect by candlelight. It is
for this pulled out sort of gold wire couching that bullion stitch is
named. It was even an affectation to pound gold wire embroidery and then to
burnish it to achieve a sheet of gold look.

4.	Generally (although there are exceptions) gold thread should never
pass through cloth, as it can both destroy the cloth and the more fragile
silver-gilt thread. If it must be passed through cloth then only the ends,
and then stitched into place to hold it securely. As a rule the beginning
and end are couched into place with several stitches on the surface.
Underside couching was used to ensure the metal thread remained in place on
the surface.

5.	Or nue is simply an elaborate form of couching, as many of you
pointed out, a form of painting with the needle. Having done literally
kilometers of the stuff, I can attest to the fact this is the penultimate
in embroidery. Even the famed Charles Germain St. Aubin, costumer to Louis
XV of France, bowed to the dying skill of embroiderers specializing in or
nue.

6.	Excellent quality bullion threads are available from Kreinik.

7.	I also still have a limited supply of gold purl and facconee thread.

Lorina Stephens

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage,
period furniture & fine hand-sewn garments ~ e-mail: lgsteph@golden.net  ~
website: http://www.historicmerchants.com/fiverivers


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 19:06:47 1999
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-Poster: "Tara Stewart" <sioned@iname.com>


I'm stepping in on this, because it's something we covered in an archeaology class I took.  BP (before present) is becoming more widely used in archaeology journals and articles to get around the BC/AD or BCE/AD splits, and also because it takes a less ethno-centric approach, since the BC/AD concept is mainly Christian and ignore other calendars.  5000 years BP means exactly what it sounds like -- 5000 years ago.  It's simpler and less confusing (the words of my archeaology book, folks!) as well as being more standard.

So it is both credible and professional, if confusing. ;)

Tara

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 9/15/99 at 7:54 PM Dustins6@aol.com wrote:

>-Poster: Dustins6@aol.com
>I'll say it's uncertain <BG>. The difficulty of narrowing it down between 250 
>- 5000 years looks to be one of those ambiguities that science just can't 
>resolve, but a newspaper that uses the term " B.P. (Before Present) " as a 
>reference point doesn't sound very credible or professional. Where did they 
>come up with that? You'd think that type of article would have been 
>approached in a more scientific manner. At any rate, it was an interesting 
>discovery and I thank you for passing it along.
>Hope
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 19:53:08 1999
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-Poster: Dustins6@aol.com

In a message dated 9/15/99 8:21:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, sioned@iname.com 
writes:

<< 5000 years BP means exactly what it sounds like -- 5000 years ago.  It's 
simpler and less confusing (the words of my archeaology book, folks!) as well 
as being more standard.
 
 So it is both credible and professional, if confusing. ;) >>

As you said, it's confusing. I have no argument with you, but I guess I do 
disagree with the book that you mention.  It sounds like a bend over 
backwards effort on the author's part to be super PC ( politically correct ). 
 I don't have much patience with the games that the PC police play. Mind you, 
I'm not pointing any fingers at you. I realise that you felt that this was 
the more acceptable way to present the info, based on the instructions that 
you received. It may well be that there are several people who also feel that 
way. And as I said, I do appreciate the fact that the information  was 
posted. It might be helpful to also post an explaination of what BP is 
supposed to be, along with the date of the article ( so everyone would know 
when "present" was, should the information be quoted at a later date), each 
time that this new method is used. The note should also mention which 
calendar is being used for the dating. In regards to those of us who do not 
look upon the the term "B.C." as a profession of faith and still cling to the 
past in our use of it, I hope that we will continue to be tolerated <VBG>.
Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 20:32:17 1999
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-Poster: rima@anet.net

Robin N says:

>That much I knew. But I'm afraid that *still* doesn't clue me in on
>whether worsted can be fulled.

Sure it can.

>Or -- perhaps a better question -- whether
>it *was* fulled.

Probably.   It dramatically increases the strength of the fabric, since it
locks all the little wool-fibre-micro-hooks together.

>Or even if it was made during the Middle Ages.

Don't know for sure, but I would guess so.  Even the word "worsted" is old.
Any cloth you would weave that has a "harder" finish would be made from
"worsted" yarns.

>For
>instance, if worsted could not be fulled very well, and fulled cloth was
>valued, then worsted might not have been preferred. Anyone have any solid
>evidence on the existence and/or use of worsted wools in the European
>Middle Ages?

And me without my library card!  ;-D

>And why do I have a vague memory that certain types of wool fibres (I
>don't know if that means the type of sheep or something else) were better
>for producing worsted than others?

Sure, different kinds of sheep produce radically different fibers, which
definitely affect what kind of yarn you get.  I'm not sure you could get a
real worsted out of Lincoln, but you definitely can out of Merino or
Rambouillet.  Then again, you wouldn't want to put Lincoln anywhere near
your body - it's more for rugs and horse-blankets!

>That is, it wasn't just a question of
>making a decision when you sat down to spin; it may have been a question
>of the characteristics of the wool you had to work with. If that's the
>case, then I would think that certain places might specialize in worsted
>wool, depending on the availability of the right sheep or whatever factors
>went into producing wool that was suitable for worsted. Do trade records
>indicate regional specialties of wollens vs. worsteds? I'm *completely*
>out of my area here.

Actually, I think this may be one of the reasons that the "finer" fabrics
came from Italy.   The English sheep breeds tend to have coarser wool,
whereas some of the Italian and French sheep breeds have a much finer wool.
I have a book somewhere on the history of all the wool breeds.   I wonder
if I can locate it tonight???

Rima


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 20:51:26 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Bergdahl, Stephen wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
> 
> Dear Members of the list
> 
> I have been thinking long and hard about this and I have decided to start a
> web page dedicated to Men's Costuming.  Much of the discussion of costuming
> is aimed at the women, and I must admit that sometimes I feel like a second


That's because women just need more clothes (in any period)!
I haven't heard anyone discouraging the guys from jumping in.
Personally I'd like to hear more from guys who wear Japanese
or Middle Eastern costume. It's usually the interminable
kilt question or doublets. Or civil war uniforms. Yawn!
We never seem to hear from anyone who wears full Cavalier
costume. Or Moghul! (Unless I missed that one)

So can ladies join your list??

Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>As for my own opinion, even if the side pieces aren't precisely
>triangular, they are fairly close, and I have no problem including them
>in the count of 10 gores on this dress.  Is it that you'd rather see it
>labeled "Herjolfsnes #41" every time it gets mentioned, or that you'd
>rather see it called "8 side-piece dress?"


Would just plain "Greenland Gown" be acceptable terminology?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 21:00:51 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:11:37 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: No harm done/thanks for the info/Re: Source for
  gemstone bead buttons
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,


>No you haven't offended me at all. 

I'm glad to hear it - it was *meant* to be a private post.  <g>

>... Thanks very much for your information. I may be asking you for more
>gem info in the future. If that's okay with you.

No problem, I don't mind being gemmological advisor to people on the list
or asked the occasional questions. ;)

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 22:33:31 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tengores and Spanish clothes
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>>
>I think, Marc, that you'll have about as much luck with this 
>terminology change as folks who remind the public at large are having, 
>telling them that the Millenium doesn't start for another 14 months -- 
>they may be right, but no one is listening.

*Sigh*

You are probably right on that, but I figure it's worth the effort.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

>...labeled "Herjolfsnes #41" every time it gets mentioned, or that
> you'd rather see it called "8 side-piece dress?"

:)

It's a risk, granted.


<"John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>>
>'Nother point in favor of using the correct designation is that there
>is more than one "10-gore dress" though the one shown in Kohler is most
> frequently the one used by costumers, SCA and otherwise.

I think the drawing in Kohler has pocket slits, doesn't it?  That
would be the H38, while the photograph there IS of H41.

OTOH, since I seem to have followed Norlund in calling them "gores"
myself, I might as well go back to being quiet about it.

Marc
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Message-ID: <017101befffa$0c898ac0$e670fea9@gunsafes>
From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Danish
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:15:00 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_016E_01BEFFBF.5EED50C0
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Please excuse my interuption...

A few months back, a man from Danmark (Copenhagen, I think)  posted to =
the list.  I have been watching for posts from him since.  Where did you =
go?  If you are still with us, email me.  I would like to talk with you =
off list.=20
  Michelle
  Mandrake@mypad.com or Mandrake@Ireland.com=20

...Now back to H-Costume.

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Please excuse my =
interuption...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>A few months back, a man from =
Danmark=20
(Copenhagen, I think)&nbsp; posted to the list.&nbsp; I have been =
watching for=20
posts from him since.&nbsp; Where did you go?&nbsp; If you are still =
with us,=20
email me.&nbsp; I would like to talk with you off list. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp; =
Michelle</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:Mandrake@mypad.com">Mandrake@mypad.com</A> or <A=20
href=3D"mailto:Mandrake@Ireland.com">Mandrake@Ireland.com</A> =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>...Now back to=20
H-Costume.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 23:04:47 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Old-post: Eleanore di Toledo's son: question
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:24:15 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

  It was me.  Thanks for getting back to me on this!
  Someone asked me why I thought it was a tunic. (I am sorry that I don't
remember who.) There doesn't appear to be lacing down the front.  The
bunching of the garment under the arms leads me to believe that there aren't
shoulder seams, as if the garment is cut with a 90 degree angle attached
sleeve. For these reasons, I thought it might be a T tunic.
  After seeing a better copy of the portrait, I noticed that there was
possibly skirts, around the hip area. I wondered then, if it was a doublet,
back laced.
  I would like for my kids to have some alternates to the garb they have. I
want to have back-ups for those things kids do.  I don't want to make
something extremely time consuming since they grow so fast.  (One time
consuming costume is enough in each size.)  If we can figure out exactly
what this portrait is representing, I think it would be helpful to all of us
with kids.
  Thanks all!
  Michelle
-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

I can't remember who posted the question about what the child in
the portrait of Eleanore di Toledo is wearing....

I just had a chance to look at a clearer copy of this picture than I
could get hold of at the time this was asked about.

To me, it looks like a white shirt (with an embroidered collar) a
reddish coloured garent (or just sleeves, as it is only visible in the
gaps where the brown over-garment sleeves are tied on and around
the wrists) and a brown dress or skirted doublet with matching
pointed in sleeves.

I'd guess, from the apparent age of the child, thathe's still young
enough to be in skirts so it's a dress he's wearing.  Since only a
small portion of the skirts can be seen (by his right hand), however,
it *could* be a longish doublet-skirt rather than a dress.

Anyone else any views on this.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:43:48 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>>
>> -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>> Anyway, my DH has decided he's going to Hastings 2000, and wants to
>> natural-dye some of his kit with onion skins.  He's started collecting
>> them in an airtight biscuit tin, but my worry is that they will go
>> mouldy before he has enough to do anything with.  Can anyone reassure
>> me, or tell me the tricks to make sure they don't turn into something
>> oozy and disgusting that tries to take over the kitchen?


Jean,
  I use onion skins to dye my Easter eggs every year.  When I go to the
grocery store, I grab a bag of skins (from the yellow ones, red doesn't
work).  I tie the open end of the bag closed and leave them in the produce
bag until I need them.  It is not air tight and they are fine. I think
putting them in an airtight tin is way too much effort. Especially, if this
is done every time you use an onion to cook with.  It would take you a
couple of years to accumulate enough skins to make a good batch of dye.  The
grocery stores have to pay someone to keep the produce isle clean, so in
effect, if you go in and fill a bag or two, you are doing them some favor.
  I took a class a few years  back  on cooking for children.  As an extra,
since it was Easter time, the instructor threw in a unit on natural egg
coloring. We used carrots, onion skins and a few other veggies.  It was a
lot of fun.  I have saved all the handouts from the class and could look up
the recipes for the specific veggies if anyone is interested.
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 23:28:02 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sewing vs. home surgery
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:43:06 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

OW!!!!!

Sticking to handsewing for good, methinks!

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Date: September 14, 1999 9:46 PM
Subject: H-COST: Sewing vs. home surgery


>
>-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
>
>I've sewn through fingers a couple of times with an industrial machine.  It
>does sound awful, and it's right up there alongside hitting your finger
>with a hammer for discomfort, but it's not really a reason to avoid
>industrial machines.  There is negligible danger of infection, because the
>needle is so hot from its speed.  The needle is usually in and back out
>before you know what happened.  I did have some trouble once when it went
>through my nail and into the bone and then broke off, and then jammed the
>blunt end back through my fingernail, but it was an excuse to stop sewing
>for a while and go to the doc-in-a-box.  They just pulled the fragments out
>and it healed right up.  The self-cauterizing makes the difference.
>
>Of course it's way better to not sew through your finger in the first
>place, and after a couple of "learning experiences" one does get a lot
>better at keeping the fingers out of the busy bit.
>
>Leslie
>whose pain threshold might be a bit off normal, come to think of it.
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Gore or panel??
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:47:35 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello!

May I ask something that may sound stupid?  (Rookie alert)

What is the difference between a gore and a panel?

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 15, 1999 8:29 AM
Subject: H-COST: Tengores and Spanish clothes


>
>-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
>I'm sorry, I know this is going to sound totally pissy, and I
>apologize for that, the term "10 Gore Dress" offends me in much
>the same way that "Bog Dress", "T-tunic" and "Apron Dress" (when
>misused) affects some others.  The Herjolfsnes no.41 does not
>have 10 gores, it has two.  It has eight side pieces, just like the
>Herjolfsnes no.38, and essentially the no.39 (although the latter
>blends them into only two side pieces).
>
>I realize that's what the author of the article (Linda M. Blowney)
>called it, and I'm not criticizing that.  It made perfect sense
>for the article she wrote.  However, using it as a default jargon
>term forever after doesn't help trying to teach people that it has
>a name, and that there were a few more contemporaneous outfits
>that were excavated along with it.
>
>Enough of that.
>
>Although I really hate continually mentioning it, there is a small
>section depicting the spanish garments from the "Museo de Telas Medievales,
>Monasterio de Santa María la Real de Huelgas" (which are about the right
>era asked for, at least) at the website "Some Clothing of the Middle
>Ages" (http://www.geocities.com/athens/parthenon/5923/cloth/bockhome.htm)
>
>Marc
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 15 23:40:00 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:51:14 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: "Herjolfsnes #41" vs. Gotlund vs. 10-gore
In-Reply-To: <37E0650B.140A5D93@utulsa.edu>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

              Herjolfsnes #41 is the most specific, and therefore the best
identifier, but many people may forget one or the other portion of
it--e.g., recall Herjolfsnes, and forget #41, or recall #41 and forget
Herjolfsnes.  I, having been a for. language/anthropology major [back
before time began :-)  ] like the whole, but understand why others may
prefer the other sobriquets for it.  -- Gra/inne
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 00:56:20 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Herjolfsnes #41" vs. Gotlund vs. 10-gore
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/16/99 4:54:56 AM !!!First Boot!!!, 
cjcannon@greymists.com writes:

<< Herjolfsnes #41 is the most specific, and therefore the best
 identifier, but many people may forget one or the other portion of
 it--e.g., recall Herjolfsnes, and forget #41, or recall #41 and forget
 Herjolfsnes.  I, having been a for. language/anthropology major [back
 before time began :-)  ] like the whole, but understand why others may
 prefer the other sobriquets for it.  -- Gra/inne >>


Yeah, what she said...(I have no earthly idea what it was, but it sounds good)
Chas
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: civil war 
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 22:14:09 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004B_01BEFFC7.A21AE940
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Who was it that needed to know about how to put the trim on her =
husband's suit?=20
     I am curious if you ever got the placement and alignment sorted =
out?  I had offered to get in touch with a friend of mine if there was a =
specific way to do this and the offer is still there.  I am very curious =
to know how this turned out.  Let us know..please, please, please!
  Michelle

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Who was it that needed to know about =
how to put=20
the trim on her husband's suit?&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I am =
curious if you=20
ever got the placement and alignment sorted out?&nbsp; I had offered to =
get in=20
touch with a friend of mine if there was a specific way to do this and =
the offer=20
is still there.&nbsp; I am very curious to know how this turned =
out.&nbsp; Let=20
us know..please, please, please!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; =
Michelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 00:00:48 1999
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Message-ID: <006d01bf0003$5b0f6260$e670fea9@gunsafes>
From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gore or panel??
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 22:21:38 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

First of all, NO question is stupid.  No one knows everything!

  Usually, a gore is triangular in shape and a panel is rectangle.
    Example for a skirt or dress:  A gore would be used to widen the bottom
half.  A panel would be used to widen the whole thing fairly evenly.
   Michelle


>
>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>Hello!
>
>May I ask something that may sound stupid?  (Rookie alert)
>
>What is the difference between a gore and a panel?
>
>Zelda


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 02:05:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 01:22:09 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

In Joan Evans' "Dres in Mediaeval France" she states:  A bliaut which
survives in the Imperial Treasury of Vienna is dated by an inscription
woven into its border, which states in Latin and in Arabic that it was
woven in Palermo in 1181."

This raised an eyebrow as I was unaware of any exsiting bliauts.  So I
wrote the Kunsthistorisches Museum.  I received a copy from their guide
"The Secular and Ecclesiastical Treasuries."  Turns out what Evans
referred to as a "bliaut" the museum refers to as an alba.  I don't know
if this is a translation issue (the original Evans was in French), a
changing in terminology, or what.  Any ideas?

--Charlene

--
Eagles may soar, but weasels aren't sucked into jet engines.



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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 00:48:16 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Kunsthistorisches bliaut reply
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Charlene wrote:

> In Joan Evans' "Dres in Mediaeval France" she states:  A bliaut which
> survives in the Imperial Treasury of Vienna is dated by an inscription
> woven into its border, which states in Latin and in Arabic that it was
> woven in Palermo in 1181."
>
> This raised an eyebrow as I was unaware of any exsiting bliauts. So I wrote
> the Kunsthistorisches Museum.  I received a copy from their guide "The
> Secular and Ecclesiastical Treasuries."  Turns out what Evans referred to
> as a "bliaut" the museum refers to as an alba.  I don't know if this is a
> translation issue (the original Evans was in French), a changing in
> terminology, or what.  Any ideas?

I don't know either, but I've seen it, and it's an alba. Every other reference
to it that I've seen calls it an alba as well. Kohler gives a good description
of it on p. 146. (fig. 171)

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Men's Costuming
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References: <199909152058.OAA24438@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Pompadour <pompadour@gmx.li>

--=====================_5069108==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 04:01 16.09.99 , you wrote:

> > I have been thinking long and hard about this and I have decided to start a
> > web page dedicated to Men's Costuming.  Much of the discussion of costuming
> > is aimed at the women, and I must admit that sometimes I feel like a second

great idea - go for it! i'm asked about menswear often, but always i have 
to say "no, sorry". clothing myself comes first, so i have neither time nor 
funds to research men's, too. i'd love to have a webpage i could point them to.

>That's because women just need more clothes (in any period)!
>I haven't heard anyone discouraging the guys from jumping in.
>Personally I'd like to hear more from guys who wear Japanese
>or Middle Eastern costume. It's usually the interminable
>kilt question or doublets. Or civil war uniforms. Yawn!

one reason is, i believe, that so very few guys are interested in 
costuming. if they are, it's certain periods, as you've pointed out, or 
military stuff. many have this weak excuse that they can't sew.

some additions to the list of disregarded men's costumes: rhingraves, 
justaucorps, cuts...


salut,
pompadour


Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA
His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)
http://www.marquise.de            webmaster@marquise.de 
--=====================_5069108==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font size=3>At 04:01 16.09.99 , you wrote:<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>&gt; I have been thinking long and hard about
this and I have decided to start a<br>
&gt; web page dedicated to Men's Costuming.&nbsp; Much of the discussion
of costuming<br>
&gt; is aimed at the women, and I must admit that sometimes I feel like a
second</font></blockquote><br>
great idea - go for it! i'm asked about menswear often, but always i have
to say &quot;no, sorry&quot;. clothing myself comes first, so i have
neither time nor funds to research men's, too. i'd love to have a webpage
i could point them to.<br>
<br>
<font size=3><blockquote type=cite cite>That's because women just need
more clothes (in any period)!<br>
I haven't heard anyone discouraging the guys from jumping in.<br>
Personally I'd like to hear more from guys who wear Japanese<br>
or Middle Eastern costume. It's usually the interminable<br>
kilt question or doublets. Or civil war uniforms. 
Yawn!</blockquote><br>
one reason is, i believe, that so very few guys are interested in
costuming. if they are, it's certain periods, as you've pointed out, or
military stuff. many have this weak excuse that they can't sew. <br>
<br>
some additions to the list of disregarded men's costumes: rhingraves,
justaucorps, cuts...<br>
<br>
<br>
salut,<br>
pompadour</font><br>
<br>
<br>
<div>Yours, etc, Pompadour M.A. (Unseen University) AKA </div>
<div>His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)</div>
<a href="http://www.marquise.de/" EUDORA=AUTOURL>http://www.marquise.de</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
webmaster@marquise.de 
</html>

--=====================_5069108==_.ALT--

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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hand vs. Machine Sewing
In-reply-to: <199909152252.QAA01924@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


Hi Dietmar

> > (been known to spend an hour figuring out *how* to machine
> > something rather than spend 10 minutes hand-sewing it...
> 
> I'm with you in that respect. I tend to use those moments when I've gone
> to bed, but before I fall asleep to work out design engineering problems
> in my head.

Ditto!

> (I figured out how to sew and turn a bag lined cotehardie without
> any hand sewing this way.) 

Ok, so share with the rest of us... if it's something you can explain 
by email.  If it isn't I shall just have to be disappointed (an maybe I'll 
sulk....<g>)

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <019e01befffe$122f0500$e670fea9@gunsafes>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 06:49:12 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 12:43 AM

>As an extra,
> since it was Easter time, the instructor threw in a unit on natural egg
> coloring. We used carrots, onion skins and a few other veggies.  It was a
> lot of fun.  I have saved all the handouts from the class and could look
up
> the recipes for the specific veggies if anyone is interested.
> Michelle
>

Michelle,

Thank you for your offer--I'm SUPER-interested!   Can you please e-mail the
recipes to me?  I've been wanting to do the 'natural dye' thing with my
kiddos this Easter.  =)   I do have one "stupid" question
though....especially in the case of the onions, do they give off an odour
while you're making the dye?

Back to bailing out my basement....whee, Floyd!
Kerrie

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 07:27:57 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Herjolfsnes #41" vs. Gotlund vs. 10-gore
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 06:45:06 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I would be happy to call these garments by their rightful name, but how
exactly do you pronounce Herjolfsnes? (g)

Kathlene

----------
> From: Carol J. Bell Cannon <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: "Herjolfsnes #41" vs. Gotlund vs. 10-gore
> Date: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 10:51 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> 
>               Herjolfsnes #41 is the most specific, and therefore the
best
> identifier, but many people may forget one or the other portion of
> it--e.g., recall Herjolfsnes, and forget #41, or recall #41 and forget
> Herjolfsnes.  I, having been a for. language/anthropology major [back
> before time began :-)  ] like the whole, but understand why others may
> prefer the other sobriquets for it.  -- Gra/inne
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 07:32:39 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Gore or panel??
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

And there's also "godet" which seems to be identical to "gore" -- a
triangle, and "gusset" which differs from those by being sewn all the
way around, such as putting extra fabric at the underarm.

Michelle wrote:

>   Usually, a gore is triangular in shape and a panel is rectangle.
>     Example for a skirt or dress:  A gore would be used to widen the bottom
> half.  A panel would be used to widen the whole thing fairly evenly.
--
It's nearly time for October Fools' Day -- the Southern Hemisphere
version of April Fools' Day.
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Michelle wrote:
> 
<snip>
>   I took a class a few years  back  on cooking for children.  As an
> extra, since it was Easter time, the instructor threw in a unit on
> natural egg coloring. We used carrots, onion skins and a few other
> veggies.  It was a lot of fun.  I have saved all the handouts from the
> class and could look up the recipes for the specific veggies if anyone
> is interested.

I can't speak for everyone but I think there are a number on this list
who would be interested in this info...could you post each recipe under
it's veggie heading?  How many are there?

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 07:46:24 1999
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 08:24:18 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

Freeze 'em and store in the freezer, or dry 'em and store in a net bag or
an old pillow case.  Drying seems to produce a better color.

Kristin


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Cybercast
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I saw the cybercast and liked it.  Only problem was the picture was SO
small on my monitor, about 1 and 1/2 inches by 2 inches.  It's hard to
see much in the way of details at that size.  If the more
computer-literate members of my family had been around, perhaps they'd
have known a way of enlarging it.  Really wanted a closer look at one
dress.  Couldn't figure out if it was a print or embroidery.  Nice to
know about the provenance of some of the dresses.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 08:13:07 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tengores
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>>
>Would just plain "Greenland Gown" be acceptable terminology?

I wouldn't have a prroblem with it, if it were the only garment found
in Greenland.  There were something like 14 dresses (in more than 4 
different but similar styles) found in the Herjolfsnes cemetery.  I 
have no idea why these this style seems to be the most commonly known, 
except perhaps that they are the most unusual in construction.

Marc
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 08:18:27 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Canadian Iceman update OT
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

"BP" technically means "Before Present", where "Present" is an assumed date 
of 1950.  This way the term remains meaningful, regardless of when we look
at the date.

As for being "PC", it's not.  It's a means of expressing accuracy to anyone, 
by anyone, regardless of the dating system that they use - and has been so
for many, many years.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 08:01:30 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dimensions for Hedeby Dress Fragment?
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 99 13:13:20 GMT
Message-ID: <M.091699.091320.37@erols.com>
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com



> -Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
> 
> I'm hoping someone will be able to help me with an obscure question.
    no other vikings on the list want to jump in here? ok, I will, then.


> I know that a fragment of a garment was found at an archeological dig at 
> Hedeby.  I know it is widely believed to be from a Viking-era apron or 
> tube dress, and I've heard different theories on how the dress should be 
> reconstructed from this fragment.  The fragment in question looks 
> approximately like so (bad ASCII art follows)
> 
> ----------
> |        |
> |        |
> |        |
> |        |
> |         \
> |          \
> |           \
> |            \
> |             \
> |              \
> |               \
> -----------------
> 
> What I'm wondering is.. ..  Does anyone have any references that give the 
> dimensions of this fragment?

    Your ascii art is just fine! while I haven't seen the references that give 
the actual dimensions of the piece (possibly in the Hedeby Textile Finds, but 
the German is too tough for my ancient memory), I can give you an idea of how I 
make this apron. Dimensions are determined by each body.
    First, since descriptions of the clothing usually seems to say "tight 
fighting at the top and flared out over the hips", then obviously the (nearly) 
straight part is the torso section, and the flare-out goes over the hips/legs.
    Second, as I said, I've never seen the actual *fragment*, but to cut the 
fabric with this large a flair (for those of us.. gifted.. sized!) is a supreme 
waste of fabric - and I know because I've done it, and no you can't dove-tail 
the pieces. The most logical construction to me is to make the garment out of a 
series of straight rectangular panels that are widened by gores from the waist 
down. It gives *exactly* the same shape, with much less fabric waste. and if 
you've ever sewn on hand woven fabric, there's much less cutting (which gave me 
the willies!) since you can weave the panels directly to size and only cut the 
gores.
    To make this, you need to measure yourself around which ever is widest - 
bust or waist - then measure your front bust (apex to apex) and determine how 
many panels this wide do you need to comfortably go around you and your dress & 
underdress that you'll be wearing beneath the apron. I usually use 6 panels, it 
gives a nice flair. Don't worry if it bags under the arms, you can always make 
long side darts - they did apparently.
    Sew these panels together for a tube the length from your underarms to your 
waist (don't forget that top hem!). Now add in gores between each panel - 
whatever width you need to fill between the panels as they go over your hips. I 
prefer my aprons to be about as long as my dress which is about ankle length.
----------
|        |
|        |
|        |
|        |
|        :\
|        : \
|        :  \
|        :   \          you get the idea.


    Hang the apron by loops over the shoulder: little bitty loop to catch the 
brooch pin in the front, and long loops from the back that reach to the brooch 
top in the front (other apron-dress).
    Carolyn Priest-Dorman addresses this garment in her _Women's Garb in 
Northern Europe, 450-1000 CE" (The Compleat Anachronist #59. SCA 1984), it may 
also be on her web-site.

    Hope this helps.
    Judy Mitchell

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 06:50:06 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Herjolfsnes #41" vs. Gotlund vs. 10-gore
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 06:45 AM 09/16/1999 -0600, you wrote: -Poster: "K & J Hopkins"
<khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>I would be happy to call these garments by their rightful name, but how
exactly do you pronounce >Herjolfsnes? (g) Kathlene
         Keep in mind that I'm extrapolating from German : Hair yolfs [like
yolks] ness [like the Loch Ness]...and thinking pron. for speakers of
American English. :-)  If anyone knows of a more proper way to pronounce
it, please 'speak up'.  Carol          
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 07:28:32 -0700
From: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>
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-Poster: Marilyn Warren <jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>

> << Dating is still uncertain. The range is expected to be 
>  sometime between 250 and 5000 B.P. (Before Present), with early guesses 
>  favoring 2000 BP.  >>
> 

In my science books - as us most other books I read - the term used is
CE or BCE (Common Era or Before the Common Era).  I have never heard
the term BP before and hope I never do again.  It is so ambiguous as
to be meaningless.  BP could mean yesterday or a week ago or a year
ago or a million years ago.

Morgan Crawford of Shrewsbury
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 11:06:26 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 12:18:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
In-Reply-To: <sDY51AA+g+33Iwhc@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Actually, I'd encourage him to store them in a paper bag or net bag (the
kind that onions come in from the store).

What I usually do when I need to do some onion skin dyeing is go to the
store and clean out all the old onion skins from the bin; the cashier is
usually very amused that I've got a bag of old onion skins, and interested
in the dyeing project.  And, of course, I usually buy something while I'm
there.

-- Mara


On Wed, 15 Sep 1999, Jean Waddie wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
> 
> Hello all.  I'm not even going to think about telling you how little
> sewing I actually do - can we make that hours per year, rather than per
> week?
> 
> Anyway, my DH has decided he's going to Hastings 2000, and wants to
> natural-dye some of his kit with onion skins.  He's started collecting
> them in an airtight biscuit tin, but my worry is that they will go
> mouldy before he has enough to do anything with.  Can anyone reassure
> me, or tell me the tricks to make sure they don't turn into something
> oozy and disgusting that tries to take over the kitchen? 
> 
> I wouldn't want to discourage him, since it's the first time he's ever
> started making something more than two weeks before the event :-)
> 
> Jean
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 11:23:35 -0500 (CDT)
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SV4.3.96.990916121552.12724A-100000@saltmine.radix.net> from "Kevin & Mara Riley" at Sep 16, 99 12:18:10 pm
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-Poster: Marie Schulte <mschulte@post.its.mcw.edu>

Ok, I admit, I haven't ever done this, but...

As one collected a bag or some measure of "enough" onion skins, could one
not boil them in a little bit of water to create the dye, strain it, and
then freeze the 'dye'?  As one collected another bag of skins, boil
them in the previously made dye?  Or conversely, just collect small
batches of dye in the freezer? 

Just a different idea.  
 -Marie

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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Actually, 'worsted' means that the fibers are combed, rather than carded,
and spun in such a way that the fibers lay parallel to the direction in
which they are spun, not perpendicular to the direction of spinning.  This
means that the yarn is less 'fluffy', there's less air in the yarn, which
gives you a 'harder' surface (less hairs sticking out from the surface of
the yarn).  Wool combs are quite ancient.  And yes, worsted cloth can be
fulled.

I've got a lovely worsted singles skein from a friend's Border Leicester
sheep -- a nice natural grey-brown color -- that would be perfect for
knitted Shetland lace.  Even though it's worsted-spun, it's still very
soft to the touch, since the fleece is so nice.  If I wove it up, though,
rather than knitting the yarn, it would probably make a nice, non-fuzzy
fabric.

-- Mara


On Wed, 15 Sep 1999 rima@anet.net wrote:

> 
> -Poster: rima@anet.net
> 
> Robin N says:
> 
> >That much I knew. But I'm afraid that *still* doesn't clue me in on
> >whether worsted can be fulled.
> 
> Sure it can.
> 
> >Or -- perhaps a better question -- whether
> >it *was* fulled.
> 
> Probably.   It dramatically increases the strength of the fabric, since it
> locks all the little wool-fibre-micro-hooks together.
> 
> >Or even if it was made during the Middle Ages.
> 
> Don't know for sure, but I would guess so.  Even the word "worsted" is old.
> Any cloth you would weave that has a "harder" finish would be made from
> "worsted" yarns.
> 
(snip)

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 12:38:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Men's Costuming
In-Reply-To: <37E04F79.75B0@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

After all, many of us women are also responsible for putting our men's
kit's together, too :D

-- Mara


On Wed, 15 Sep 1999, Susan Fatemi wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
> 
> Bergdahl, Stephen wrote:
> > 
> > -Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
> > 
> > Dear Members of the list
> > 
> > I have been thinking long and hard about this and I have decided to start a
> > web page dedicated to Men's Costuming.  Much of the discussion of costuming
> > is aimed at the women, and I must admit that sometimes I feel like a second
> 
> 
> That's because women just need more clothes (in any period)!
> I haven't heard anyone discouraging the guys from jumping in.
> Personally I'd like to hear more from guys who wear Japanese
> or Middle Eastern costume. It's usually the interminable
> kilt question or doublets. Or civil war uniforms. Yawn!
> We never seem to hear from anyone who wears full Cavalier
> costume. Or Moghul! (Unless I missed that one)
> 
> So can ladies join your list??
> 
> Susan F.
> 
> -- 
> Oh Noh! Kimonos!
> susanf@netwiz.net
> http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 12:41:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
In-Reply-To: <019e01befffe$122f0500$e670fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Yes, I'm interested in hearing about the other dyes you got from veggies
for easter eggs.

THanks,
Mara


On Wed, 15 Sep 1999, Michelle wrote:
(snip)
> since it was Easter time, the instructor threw in a unit on natural egg
> coloring. We used carrots, onion skins and a few other veggies.  It was a
> lot of fun.  I have saved all the handouts from the class and could look up
> the recipes for the specific veggies if anyone is interested.
> Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 11:33:31 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 12:45:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: sailor's palm
In-Reply-To: <37DD9DCE.74FC3BD4@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Sailor's palms can be ordered from Boat U.S.  They have a catalog, but I
don't have their phone number handy.  I think their headquarters are in
Alexandria, VA.


On Tue, 14 Sep 1999, Dietmar wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> Someone (I'm sorry, but I don't remember who) wrote:
> 
> >>> Try using a sailor's palm for pushing the needle thru a corset.
> >>> Saves much wear & tear on the fingers.
> 
> Lonna wondered:
> 
> >> What is a sailor's palm and where can I find one?
> 
> Zelda confirmed:
> 
> > Sounds interesting.  Is it for making sails with?  How is it handled/used?
> 
> I've never really seen or used one, but from what I understand it is a spoon
> shaped metal depression that fits into the palm of your hand and can be used
> to push needles through many heavy layers. I believe they may be attached to a
> sort of glove and that in a pinch you could probably use a soup spoon to
> hobble together a home made variant.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Dietmar
> 
> 
> "Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
>  over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Need information on Northern Spanish (Leon) garb; late 12th, early 13th C.
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 21:04:54 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi all,

Lonna wrote: 
> I am writing on behalf of a friend of mine whose persona is from late
12th 
> to early 13th C. Leon (Northern Spain). She has garb that works for now,
but 
> she would like to find information on some that is more authentic. It 
> doesn't have to be from the height of fashion as her persona is traveling

> with a mercenary group as a combination fighter and medic. 

A female fighter??? around 1200??? in Spain??? and a medic??? (maybe a
herb-doctor?)

I hope I'm giving 
> you enough to start on.
> 
> (Henk, is this time period within your specialty range?)

It's a bit early, but it should be long and loose (gores at the sides!)
with tight sleeves at the wrist, lots of layers, semi circular mantle,
there could be some embroidery on cuffs, biceps and collars or strips of
other coloured stuff in the same places or both of these combined.
Headcovering by fine bleached linen or maybe even muslin. Fine (dyed)
cordovan belts, purses and shoes. For extra warmth sleeveless
cottes/jupels. Bright colours. For reference check the illustrations in the
Cantiguas of Alfonso the Wise of the early 13th c.

Hope this helps,

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: "H-COSTUME" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re H-Cost: costuming and haircolour
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 20:54:21 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


Hi all,

I don't consider myself a professional costumer. However: I made all the
costumes I own myself and sometimes sew for my sons as well (Pauline does
her own too and for the kids as well). I think I'm more a costume
historian, who tries out the things he finds out for himself. That's
something most costume historians in the past didn't and this fact leaps
out of about every page they write. Most of them have never even worn
historical costume to find out how it feels and holds itself in different
environments. I love doing this and keep experimenting with all kinds of
medieval outfits in all kinds of weather and with all kinds of activities.

My sister has her own costume studio and sews for our business and for all
kinds of re-enactment freaks and societies. She also appears on our
medieval markets with her own tailors stall in 13th, 14th and soon also
15th c dress. She used to be blond but until recently died her hair red
(!). She stopped doing that and it's now whitish grey; suits her very well.

I just finished my first 15th c dress item: an orange sleeveless pourpoint
of the 1470's fully lined and interlined. I still have to finish the
points.  My next one is going to be a sleeved doublet of lovely dark green
worsted with a linen lining, but I don't know where to get the time to do
this (and the hose, and the jacke and the hood, etc. etc..).

Incidentally: I'm not a redhead, neither is Pauline (although she sometimes
seems to have red highlights in her hair, which is beautiful and very
long). I'm 6'2'', a bit heavyish (but not too much), 51 years old and have
dark brown, longish hair (still a kind of hippy, but it also suits my
appearances as a medieval person; I have Pauline cut it in late 13th c
style) a short beard and droopy mustache, all nicely greying. My eyes are
greenish brown; greener in summer, browner in winter and I have fair skin
which tends to freckle in summer.

My wardrobe seems to consist of blue and black jeans, jean shorts (worn
them a lot this summer, which has been wonderful until today; it started to
rain this afternoon and the summer turned into autumn instantly) some blue
and black linen or half silk 'colberts' (jackets), a loose short summer
coat and a warm longer winter coat per season, lots of T-shirts with
buttoned neckslits which I wear open as I cannot stand tight collars (I
don't own a single tie!), shirts with short and long sleeves (which I
always roll up to about 8" above the wrist as I cannot stand long sleeves
as well; funny that: do you think this means something?) and in winter
open-necked sweathers. These are all cotton and some silks, I don't wear
any plastic, ever. I like all kinds of colours, but greens, browns, reds,
ochres, blues, greys, creams and black are my favourites. Oh, I forgot, I
still have a tuxedo with all the fittings hidden in my closet. I don't own
a single suit and I'm lucky not to need one in my line of work. And I own
one pair of good, sturdy black shoes... All the rest of my clothes and
accessories are medieval and they outnumber my present wardrobe by about
1,5 to 1.

So there, now you know...;-)

Henk
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 12:04:57 -0500 (CDT)
From: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Herjolfsnes #41" vs. Gotlund ...
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-Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu


<"Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>>
><khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>>I would be happy to call these garments by their 
rightful name, but how
>>exactly do you pronounce >Herjolfsnes? (g) Kathlene
>>Keep in mind that I'm extrapolating from German : Hair 
yolfs [like yolks] ness [like the Loch Ness]...and 
thinking pron. for speakers of American English. :-)  If 
anyone knows of a more proper way to pronounce it, 
please 'speak up'.  Carol

Not speaking Norse (Norsk or even Dansk), my personal 
guess has leaned more toward "Her yolfs [golf] neze" but 
 "yolfs [like yolks] ness" may well be more correct.

Marc
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Men's Costuming
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 12:38 PM 09/16/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
>
>After all, many of us women are also responsible for putting our men's
>kit's together, too :D

Some  of my best work has been done for men.  they're much easier to work
for, IMHO.  They usually have a realistic attitude toward their bodies and
what clothes can or can't do for them, and they seem to rpay more attention
to good craftsmanship.

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 11:58:49 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 13:09:39 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair color/OT
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/14/1999 6:18:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< I've been considering the Clairol Natural Instincts Black Cherry colorant,
 ever since someone told me it turned her grey hair bright purple.  Now THAT
 sounds like fun!
 
 Margo
 
 "One Tough Costumer"
 http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm >>

ok, margo, now THAT's fun!  Over the years, I too, have gone pretty gray, 
although those nasty gray hairs have never seen more than 1/2 " of the light 
of day, so to speak!

I occasionally use that dark red stuff, and it does indeed, turn one's hair 
various shades of plum.  Do take a pic and post it on your web site, then 
we'll have Penny give it a name for her color book!

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none: 
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, 
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key: 
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare
http://come.to/costumes
http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 11:58:58 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 12:10:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dimensions for Hedeby Dress Fragment?
In-reply-to: <3.0.6.32.19990916115625.007a9e30@pop.utulsa.edu>
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-Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu


Quoting Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>:
From: trekona@erols.com
>I'm hoping someone will be able to help me with an 
obscure question.

I've been trying to find my notes on Hedeby, but if 
memory serves the length isn't a lot more than a foot-a 
foot and a half long.  It's not a big piece of fabric.

Marc
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 12:10:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dimensions for Hedeby Dress Fragment?
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-Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu


Quoting Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>:
From: trekona@erols.com
>I'm hoping someone will be able to help me with an 
obscure question.

I've been trying to find my notes on Hedeby, but if 
memory serves the length isn't a lot more than a foot-a 
foot and a half long.  It's not a big piece of fabric.

Marc
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From: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dimensions for Hedeby Dress Fragment?
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-Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu


Quoting Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>:
From: trekona@erols.com
>I'm hoping someone will be able to help me with an 
obscure question.

I've been trying to find my notes on Hedeby, but if 
memory serves the length isn't a lot more than a foot-a 
foot and a half long.  It's not a big piece of fabric.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 12:01:33 1999
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To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:13:40 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

Hi, 
I'm not sure how many of you get The Learning Channel 
where you live but as I was reading through their 
schedule today I found a program that I intend to watch that I thought might have been of some interest 
to the rest of you. It's called "Next to Nothing". It 
is described as "The history of women is reflected in 
fashion's hidden layer: lingerie. Explore the evolution 
behind underclothes, from Victorian corsets through the bra-burnings of the 1970s and the sexy styles of 
today." It airs on TLC September 24th at 10:00pm & 
1:00am (EST). 


Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure


"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 





Get free e-mail with a women.com membership at http://women.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 12:13:32 1999
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From: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>
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-Poster: Meribeth McCombs <meribetha@zebra.net>

Michelle - 

That was me with the uniform question.  So far so good on making it, but
I still have no idea as to how to attach the trim.  I missed your offer,
so I apologize for not getting to you sooner.  Could you check on it,
please?

MeriBeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 12:27:39 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909161623.LAA11121@post.its.mcw.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 18:36:19 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Seems a bit finicky to me but might work ; I have only ever kept left over
amounts , which has precipated , I suppose because of air getting in the
bottle; I would certainly keep it well stoppered and in the dark and
LABELLED;
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
 > -Poster: Marie Schulte <mschulte@post.its.mcw.edu>
>
> Ok, I admit, I haven't ever done this, but...
>
> As one collected a bag or some measure of "enough" onion skins, could one
> not boil them in a little bit of water to create the dye, strain it, and
> then freeze the 'dye'?  As one collected another bag of skins, boil
> them in the previously made dye?  Or conversely, just collect small
> batches of dye in the freezer?
>
> Just a different idea.
>  -Marie
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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-Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu


>From: Marilyn Warren 
<jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>
>Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 07:28:32 -0700
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Canadian Iceman update
>
>- -Poster: Marilyn Warren 
<jamesronald_warren@bc.sympatico.ca>
>
>> << Dating is still uncertain. The range is expected 
to be
>>  sometime between 250 and 5000 B.P. (Before Present), 
with early guesses
>>  favoring 2000 BP.  >>
>In my science books - as us most other books I read - 
the term used is
>CE or BCE (Common Era or Before the Common Era).  I 
have never heard
>the term BP before and hope I never do again.  It is so 
ambiguous as
>to be meaningless.  BP could mean yesterday or a week 
ago or a year
>ago or a million years ago.
>
>Morgan Crawford of Shrewsbury

I don't agree.  Just like most forms of "jargon", what 
it really means is obscured by it's brevity, and unless 
you have been trained in the use of that jargon, you 
have no reason to understand what someone else is 
talking about -- after all, how big is a Size 1 dress 
anyway? :)

My area of focus is medieval shoes, and most of the 
material published on them is in archaeological 
jargon.  Over the past few years, I've been making an 
attempt to learn the hidden meanings in shoemaking 
jargon in order to better understand and hopefully to 
better explain shoemaking.  One of the things that 
was immeadiately obvious was that most of the shoemaking 
terms were totally obscure and paid close attention to 
details that were (to me) irrelevant, while the 
gentleman who was teaching me found the same problem 
with the jargon I was using.  We eventually realized 
that the problem was that although we were both looking 
at the same materials (thread, leather, and so forth), 
we were looking from different perspectives - one the 
understanding of what the leather artifacts looked like, 
the other, the process of how to get the leather to 
become a shoe.  For example, a flesh-edge butted seam 
versus a split sewn closure.  For me, the former was 
self-evident in its meaning.  You have two bits of 
leather, mirroring one another, with the holes entering 
the sides of the leather, curving and coming out the 
meeting edges.  Basically, it's a description of the 
hole.  The other was meaningless (especially since to me 
a "split stitch" was a type of embroidery stitch).  But 
I was wrong.  "Sewn" meant that the awl (and hence the 
thread) did not pass through to be seen on both sides of 
the work (as opposed to "stitching"), splitting more or 
less means that the leather is split by the awl as it 
comes out the edge.  And the opening between the two 
pieces of leather is being closed.  I could also use 
terms like "round seam" or "flat" to determine how far 
from the edge the awl should be going into the leather.
In fact, these terms are frequently self evident to 
people who make shoes (A properly made round seam is a 
beauty and a joy to behold...)

Sometimes jargon terms are selected from ignorance (I 
strongly doubt that if Norlund had known more about 
English language garment making terms, he would have 
chosen the term "gores" for example), but more often 
when we know what the term is intended to mean, we can 
see why that term was selected, and have a better 
understanding.  Of course, that doesn't mean we will 
still like it though :)

Marc

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 13:20:19 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0FI500H03YGW08@vega.utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe terminology; wasCanadian Iceman update OT  
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 19:32:02 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Marc, Thank you for a very for a wonderful description. I now know who to
come to when people ask me what one earth I am talking about., which is
quite often. Although there are some slight regional variations, I believe,
and I have not made any particular study of it as you have. A typical
problem  is explaining that (eg)--- "making " does not mean all of the
manufacture but only the bringing together of the 'closed' upper with the
bottom parts; "Bottoming" is what is done afterwards; -Parts for uppers are
"clicked" but parts of bottoms are " cut"---and all this before we get into
deeper things ; I can only demonstrate a "turn-welt" I cannot  do it in
words even with a lot of arm waving.
I can live with most of it although I do get a little perplexed with people
who insist on calling a multi-armed iron cobbler's "hob" ; a "last"
While I have an expert to ask. There is something that I have always wanted
to confirm; I have always supposed the the introduction of (wooden) last
cutting machinery ( a US invention) was closely associated with the machine
used to cut standard stocks for muskets (Springfield?) It seems only a
slight modification was needed to allow the machine to cut two "handed" but
otherwise identical lasts. I would appreciate your views on this; It is
something that has always intrigued me.
Anyway it's heart warming to know that there is another shoe person on the
list.

Dave
 ----- Original Message -----
 > -Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
>
snip>
  For example, a flesh-edge butted seam
> versus a split sewn closure.  For me, the former was
> self-evident in its meaning.  You have two bits of
> leather, mirroring one another, with the holes entering
> the sides of the leather, curving and coming out the
> meeting edges.  Basically, it's a description of the
> hole.  The other was meaningless (especially since to me
> a "split stitch" was a type of embroidery stitch).  But
> I was wrong.  "Sewn" meant that the awl (and hence the
> thread) did not pass through to be seen on both sides of
> the work (as opposed to "stitching"), splitting more or
> less means that the leather is split by the awl as it
> comes out the edge.  And the opening between the two
> pieces of leather is being closed.  I could also use
> terms like "round seam" or "flat" to determine how far
> from the edge the awl should be going into the leather.
> In fact, these terms are frequently self evident to
> people who make shoes (A properly made round seam is a
> beauty and a joy to behold...)
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 13:20:24 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Les Incroyables et Mervilleuses
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

Since it's now heading into cooler weather, I've decided that *this* will be 
the year that I use the wool I've been hoarding to make myself a new coat.  
For some reason, not sure which, I'm stuck on the idea of making a 
stylized/exaggerated overcoat with big cuffs and lapels.  This somehow led to 
Les Incroyables -- an extreme style of dress that appeared in France 
somewhere around the French Revolution.  I'm looking for information on said 
fad.  I've checked Davenport & Boucher (they were still out from the last 
project) and found nothing.  Does anyone know of a source that has more than 
a single drawing or sentence about them??  

Thanks!
Jen
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool stuff (Kinda long....sorry....)
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 17:51:38 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Tue, 14 Sep 1999 22:46:36 -0500 (CDT), the following was written in
this electric book by Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>:


>That much I knew. But I'm afraid that *still* doesn't clue me in on
>whether worsted can be fulled. Or -- perhaps a better question -- whether
>it *was* fulled. Or even if it was made during the Middle Ages.  For
>instance, if worsted could not be fulled very well, and fulled cloth was
>valued, then worsted might not have been preferred. Anyone have any solid
>evidence on the existence and/or use of worsted wools in the European
>Middle Ages? 

Worsted is spun with the grain of the fibers (they are organised
before spinning by combing, so that they all lie in one direction, and
you keep then in that direction as you spin) and woollen is not (for
woollen, you card teh fibes so that they lie everywhich way and spin
up into a fluffy yars, suitable for sweaters, etc). Techically, nearly
all wool spun in europe until the 13th-14th century (when wool cards
for fluffing rather than straightening fiber appeared) was worsted.

And they fulled it. So the answer to your question is 'yes'.

Worsted does full less obviously than woollen, because the fibers have
less room to move. However, it does felt up a little bit, which does
improve the water-resistance and overall texture, and the fibers do
lock together, which thickens the cloth, but it isn't as obvious as
with woollen. 

Does this help?

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 13:41:12 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: pronunciation
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

Herjolfsnes

hair  yolf (rhymes with golf) ness

Just like it's spelled!

Kim (whose grandparents were mostly Norwegian)
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: 1850's wrapper question
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I have some questions about wrappers of the `1850's, and how and when they
were worn.  In this particular case, the wearers would be recent immigrants
to California, the respectable women who came for the Gold Rush.

One school of thought contends that wrappers were an "undress" garment, worn
only in the privacy of one's home, or for maternity wear, usually over
chemise and petticoats,  and that they would not have been worn in public at
all.  Basically, a bathrobe.

the other school of thought, is that a wrapper was a very casual style that
was still considered decent enough for public wear when worn with decent
accesories such as sunbonnet, apron, etc, and probably  with some form of
stays.  It would have been worn on the emigrant trail or while living in
rough conditions such as tents in the mining camps, for everyday work wear.
They wouldn't have worn it to church or when making calls, but it would have
been proper for the normal course of a day, including while running errands
or in other public situations.  In other words, sweats.

I'd be interested in hearing opinions, or documentation for either theory.

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 14:25:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Herjolfsnes #41" vs. Gotlund vs. 10-gore
In-Reply-To: <E11RTXw-0000bB-00@mongoose.slip.net>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>

Okay, I'm all for calling things by their proper names, but how in blazes
does one pronounce "Herjolfsnes"?

Emma

On Wed, 15 Sep 1999, Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> 
>               Herjolfsnes #41 is the most specific, and therefore the best
> identifier, but many people may forget one or the other portion of
> it--e.g., recall Herjolfsnes, and forget #41, or recall #41 and forget
> Herjolfsnes.  I, having been a for. language/anthropology major [back
> before time began :-)  ] like the whole, but understand why others may
> prefer the other sobriquets for it.  -- Gra/inne
>  _________________________________________________________________
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Margo,

Check with Inez Brooks-Myers at The Oakland Museum and then let us know her 
thoughts. My mid-19th century knowledge is minimal and I would like to know 
more.

Sally

Costume Calendar Series
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 14:37:14 1999
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

Jen:

Try Aileen Riberio's works.  There is one; I forget the title, but it 
deals with French fashion from the pre-Revolutionary era to the 
Consulate(just before Napoleon staged his coup that eventually led to 
declaring himself Emperor) There is a plate or two and some 
discussion of the Incroyables and Mervilleuses.  This style of dress 
developed shortly after the fall of Robespierre, ending the 
Terror(the mass arrests and guillotining of anyone suspected of being 
anti-revolutionary. It started with the trial and execution of Louis 
XVI in early 1793 and ended with the arrest and guillotining of 
Robespierre and his party in (I think) July, 1794.).

Riberio reproduces many French fashion plates of the era, but all the 
fashion magazines practically stopped publishing during the height of 
the Terror--fashion, even patriotic fashion,  being wasteful and 
therefore antirevolutionary.

If you caught the "Scarlet Pimpernel" on A&E some months ago(two more 
episodes are supposed to be coming)you will note the range of 
fashions during the Terror--and a hint of the Incroyables and 
Mervilleuses to come.  The most extreme Mervilleuse fashions that
Riberio discusses are not fall and winter weather suitable, although 
an outbreak of pneumonia was blamed on the followers of Mervilleuse 
fashion and not the impossibly high cost of fuel!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 15:12:36 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:46:09 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

Thank you all for your helpful tips.  After Dave's post I thought I
would just give up - let him get discouraged slowly.  But I will show
him all your information, throw out the skins we have and make friendly
with the local greengrocer when the DH gets round to actually wanting to
do the dyeing.  And maybe I can find an event where he can be an
interesting bit of living history and do his dyeing _outside_, and near
someone else's neighbours. (We live in a flat with a shared drying green
- might not be popular making smells there)

Thank you all

Jean 





In message <sDY51AA+g+33Iwhc@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>, Jean Waddie
<anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> writes
>
>-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
>Hello all.  I'm not even going to think about telling you how little
>sewing I actually do - can we make that hours per year, rather than per
>week?
>
>Anyway, my DH has decided he's going to Hastings 2000, and wants to
>natural-dye some of his kit with onion skins.  He's started collecting
>them in an airtight biscuit tin, but my worry is that they will go
>mouldy before he has enough to do anything with.  Can anyone reassure
>me, or tell me the tricks to make sure they don't turn into something
>oozy and disgusting that tries to take over the kitchen? 
>
>I wouldn't want to discourage him, since it's the first time he's ever
>started making something more than two weeks before the event :-)
>
>Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 13:24:30 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re H-Cost: costuming and haircolour
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:54 PM 09/15/1999, "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl> wrote:I think I'm
more a costume
>historian, who tries out the things he finds out for himself. That's
>something most costume historians in the past didn't and this fact leaps
>out of about every page they write. Most of them have never even worn
>historical costume to find out how it feels and holds itself in different
>environments. I love doing this and keep experimenting with all kinds of
>medieval outfits in all kinds of weather and with all kinds of activities.
            So, Henk--when are you going to write and publish your book?  I
know those of us on the list who would purchase it are a small initial
market, but I'm sure word would spread fast in the reenactment communities,
too. -- Carol
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:33:38 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
In-Reply-To: <199909152009.QAA25945@williams.tricreations.com>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <199909152009.QAA25945@williams.tricreations.com>, Elisee du
Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com> writes
>
>-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
>
>I suggest if you really want to try keeping them to tuck the tin in the 
>freezer.
>
>I used to dye baskets with walnut husks - the green part that turns dark 
>brown as it ages.  It's the right time of year to be collecting them, and 
>anyone with a walnut tree in their yard would love to have the husks 
>carted off.  It produces a very very dark brown when I used them.  Use 
>rubber gloves to pick up the walnuts or you'll stain your hands dark 
>brown as well.  I used a metal garbage can with the husks and water, 
>built a fire around it to heat the water and simmered baskets for about 
>15 minutes to a half hour to get a deep brown.
>
>Suppose a very few husks in a lot of water might produce a lighter colour?
>
>Lisee

Wow!  So the fairy tales about people disguising themselves by dyeing
their skin with walnut juice are true?

Unfortunately I don't know anyone with a garden, never mind one with a
walnut tree (do they grow in Scotland?)  This would be a great colour to
do naturally.

Jean
>Jean Waddie wrote:
>
>>
>>-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>>
>>Hello all.  I'm not even going to think about telling you how little
>>sewing I actually do - can we make that hours per year, rather than per
>>week?
>>
>>Anyway, my DH has decided he's going to Hastings 2000, and wants to
>>natural-dye some of his kit with onion skins.  He's started collecting
>>them in an airtight biscuit tin, but my worry is that they will go
>>mouldy before he has enough to do anything with.  Can anyone reassure
>>me, or tell me the tricks to make sure they don't turn into something
>>oozy and disgusting that tries to take over the kitchen? 
>>
>>I wouldn't want to discourage him, since it's the first time he's ever
>>started making something more than two weeks before the event :-)
>>
>>Jean
>>-- 
>>Jean Waddie
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 15:28:27 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>I can't speak for everyone but I think there are a number on this list who 
>would be interested in this info...could you post each recipe under it's 
>veggie heading?  How many are there?
>
>Kat

Oooh!  Oooh! Me, I'm one!

Karie/Allessandre


"Those who give up a little liberty for safety, deserve neither liberty nor 
safety" - Ben Franklin

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Subject: H-COST: Canadian Iceman update
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<< BP could mean yesterday or a week ago or a year ago or a million years ago.>>

I thin k perhaps you missed the point. BP is *in conjunction* with a number
-- as in 500 BP (which means 500 years ago), or 250 BP (250 years ago.)

You don't simply say something is "AD" -- you add the year. This works for
those working within a Christian calendar,  but as someone pointed out,
there are many people in this world who don't (and some of those people
have some of the best artifacts.)

Deborah


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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Kunsthistorisches bliaut reply
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 21:33:13 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Charlene wrote:
> In Joan Evans' "Dres in Mediaeval France" she states:  A bliaut which
> survives in the Imperial Treasury of Vienna is dated by an inscription
> woven into its border, which states in Latin and in Arabic that it was
> woven in Palermo in 1181."
> This raised an eyebrow as I was unaware of any exsiting bliauts.  So I
> wrote the Kunsthistorisches Museum.  I received a copy from their guide
> "The Secular and Ecclesiastical Treasuries."  Turns out what Evans
> referred to as a "bliaut" the museum refers to as an alba.  I don't know
> if this is a translation issue (the original Evans was in French), a
> changing in terminology, or what.  Any ideas?
> 
The original 'Dress in Medieval France' was published by the O.U.P. in
1952, in English, so the mistake was all Miss Evans'. There is however
still a controversy what the word 'bliaut' really means. Is it a garment or
is it a kind of cloth where this type of garment was usually made of i.e. a
kind of silk. There is also a possibility that the one became the other;
the material became the thing, like rubber... Anyway the A, the B and the L
are all in both words, mayby it was just a word wrongly remembered or
overlooked during correcting.

Henk

> --Charlene
> 
> --
> Eagles may soar, but weasels aren't sucked into jet engines.
> 
> 
> 
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wool Question
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 21:20:36 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi all,

This took some time to answer, but I did not have time to do the neccessary
research. Now I have...

> > >Does anyone know of any uses in medieval/renaissance periods of a
> > >lightweight wool such as a gabardine? It's really lovely material and
if
> > >I was inclined to make myself a dress suit, it would be of this
material.

Gabardine (from old French 'gauvardine"= a kind of mantle, a rain mantle?)
is not so much a type of cloth as a type of weave. It's a kind of four-shed
twill or steep chevron weave with a tight warp and a looser weft (that's
why the chevron or herring bone is so steep), which makes for a clear
ribbled effect at the surface which is the warp appearing to be on top of
the weft. Four shed twill, which produces a lozengy pattern, is very
ancient. It was mainly woven on upright two-beam looms and produced finely
woven and very waterproof mantles. The Frisians used this technique already
in the 7th or 8th c and produced the famous Frisian mantles with it. They
were exported all over the known world, even to the court of Harun al
Rashid, via Charlemagne (who did not much like the shorter Frisian mantles:
"not long enough to cover your arse:" he's supposed to have said, because
he preferred the longer Frankish mantles). Gabardine then was made from
combed wool and so was a type of worsted (!). Later on it was also made
from other yarns: combed wool warp and normal wool weft or cotton weft, all
cotton or, recently, mixes of cotton and all kinds of plastics. Nowadays
it's mainly used for (old fashioned) raincoats and not made of wool
anymore. I would check if there is still wool in this gabardine you have.

> > >As it turns, I was intending to make some capes and trews from it and
> > >wanted a heavier weight.

Capes or mantles would still be a good idea, but you'll have to line them,
else they are not heavy enough. A mantle should 'hang', not flutter about.

> I think that wools weren't commonly heavily fulled till the 14th C --

Fulling was already done in Roman times by treading in large tubs, but was
abandoned when the Romans left Northern Europe. By the 10th c there were
however already (or still) fulling mills in Italy and by the 11th c
Flanders was already exporting broadcloths which were heavily fulled,
napped and shorn woollen cloths. The fulling process included soaking in an
alkaline fluid which could be stale urine or fuller's earth, whichever was
easier to aquire. Generally worsted, which has been woven during the whole
medieval period, was not fulled, or otherwise finished (except for
calandering in the 15th c which gave it an extra shine) and therefore
cheaper than broadcloth. It was used for bedhangings, wallhangings,
coverlets and cushion covers, summer clothing, f.i. light doublets, hose
(for the elasticity) and also for linings of garments made from broadcloth.
It was especially used by the crusaders in Cyprus and the Holy Land during
the late 12th and 13th c and by monks for their summer habits.

> properly felt was made from unspun wool.

A lot of felt was made from bowed or carded wool of the areas with shorter
hairs which were hard to comb and from the shorter haired fells of goats
and of cotton. 

Most of these facts are to be found in the MOL book Textiles and Clothing
which has pictures of worsted dating back to the 11-12th c. The name was
even derived from a Norfolk village called Worstead, where there were
famous weavers producing this cloth since the late 13th c. I added parts of
my own research and other sources I have in my library.

Henk
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 13:47:43 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: pronunciation
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 01:41 PM 09/16/1999 -0500, you wrote: -Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird"
<baird@rrnet.com> Herjolfsnes
>hair  yolf (rhymes with golf) ness   Just like it's spelled! Kim (whose
grandparents were mostly >Norwegian)
               If an English-speaking person recalls that in Germanic
languages 'j' = 'y', that is. :-) Thank you for the correction, and thank
you, too, to Marc.  Carol
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 16:08:16 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe terminology; wasCanadian Iceman update OT
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>>
>Marc, Thank you for a very for a wonderful description...

Thank you.

>quite often. Although there are some slight regional variations, I believe,
>and I have not made any particular study of it as you have. A typical
>problem  is explaining that (eg)--- "making " does not mean all of the
>manufacture but only the bringing together of the 'closed' upper with the
>bottom parts; "Bottoming" is what is done afterwards; -Parts for uppers are
>"clicked" but parts of bottoms are " cut"---and all this before we get into
>deeper things;

I believe that these are correct, yes.  And there are definately differences
based on region and basic tradition (Traditional cowboy boot makers, for
example,
have some terms that are unique).

>I can only demonstrate a "turn-welt" I cannot  do it in words even with a
lot of 
>arm waving.

Simple :)  It's turned sewn-round work with a welt sewn as a bead in the
inseam to 
which an outsole has been stitched.

>I can live with most of it although I do get a little perplexed with people
>who insist on calling a multi-armed iron cobbler's "hob" ; a "last"
>While I have an expert to ask. There is something that I have always wanted
>to confirm...

I'm definately NOT an expert on this :)  And I'm afraid this is just a
little out 
of my period.  I will forward the question to the Crispin Coliquy though
(at http://www.bootmaker.com/discus/ ), and ask them.  There are some serious
experts there.

>Anyway it's heart warming to know that there is another shoe person on the
>list.

I agree.


Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 15:50:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 14:01:33 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: WAS: Re: H-COST: Onion skins NOW: Walnuts
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:33 PM 09/16/1999 +0100, you wrote: -Poster: Jean Waddie
<anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>Wow!  So the fairy tales about people disguising themselves by dyeing
>their skin with walnut juice are true?
           It's very difficult to get even coverage--one's skin absorbs
differently in different places.  Yes, I tried it where it wouldn't show
when I was a 'kid'...with my grandmother's permission [she raised me &
having raised 4 knew when to give ltd. permission to avert disaster :-)  ].
>Unfortunately I don't know anyone with a garden, never mind one with a
>walnut tree (do they grow in Scotland?)  This would be a great colour to
>do naturally. Jean
           I used to help pick walnuts with my grandmother.  Gloves are a
necessity, if one does not wish one's hands to elbows to end up that color
for a looooong time. :-)  I have not tried dying cloth with walnut hulls,
but I would go with Black Walnuts, rather than English Walnuts, I think.
Anyone have real experience with both to share? -- Carol

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 15:54:54 1999
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From: madly@2xtreme.net
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-Poster: madly@2xtreme.net

Hello,

I would like to invite you to join the menscostumes community.

The description of this community is:

The list is dedicated  to the discussion of men’s costuming.  Be it SCA, Civil War, Ren Faire, Science Fiction, any and all are welcome.  This is NOT  a “Boys Only Club”  you do not have to be male to be on his list, BUT the focus of the list is men’s costuming.

You can join this community by going to the following web page:

     http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/menscostumes

Or you can join by sending email to the following address:

     mailto:menscostumes-subscribe@onelist.com

If you do not wish to join this community, please ignore this message.


Thanks,

madly@2xtreme.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 16:05:35 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Dimensions for Hedeby Dress Fragment?
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 17:17:02 -0400
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From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Judy Mitchell wrote:
>I can give you an idea of how I make this apron

Well, I appreciate the effort you put into explaining your method.  
However, I've already done some reading on this topic and I know how I 
plan to make my dress.  Mistress Ellisif has a wonderful article she 
wrote on a different reconstruction of the dress.  In her method, you 
make the dress with pieces that do have that angled flare seen in the 
fragment.  And yes, she found a layout in which the pieces do dovetail 
together perfectly with absolutely no waste.  (I will try to contact her 
for permission to share her article.)

The reason I want the dimensions of the actual fragment is that I want to 
do a little number crunching and figure out how many panels made up the 
original dress.


Marc wrote:
>I've been trying to find my notes on Hedeby, but if 
>memory serves the length isn't a lot more than a foot-a 
>foot and a half long.  It's not a big piece of fabric.

Well, as I understand it, there is apparently obviously fabric missing in 
the length of that fragment.  So the length is not really the dimension I 
was most interested in.  Going back to my bad ACSII art:

       T
  ----------
  |        |
  |        | S
  |        |
  |        |
  |         \
H |          \
  |           \
  |            \
  |             \
  |              \
  |               \
  -----------------
          B

If someone has all four dimensions, that would be great.  Otherwise, I'm 
most interested in T, and after that, S.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Subject: H-COST: Online Smock/T-tunic pattern generator
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


OK, it's finally finished:  I've created a web-based Elizabethan Smock
pattern generator, and instructions on sewing it together.  You input your
measurements, and it generates customized instructions and to-scale
pictures of the pattern pieces. It also calculates how much fabric
you'll need, and shows a diagram of the most economical way to lay the
pieces out. It also works for T-Tunics. It's at:

http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/smockpat/

It works well for me, but I'm only one set of measurements :)   Please,
try it out if you're interested--and let me know how it works for you.

Enjoy!

Drea 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 16:11:10 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 17:22:04 EDT
Subject: Re: WAS: Re: H-COST: Onion skins NOW: Walnuts
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Black walnuts are one of the few natural direct dyes for cotton (that is, no 
mordant required.)  Any book on natural dyeing should give you directions.
Ann Wass
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 17:11:06 -0500
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From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: wrapper question
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

--=====================_13167978==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

I found an interesting reference in Calico Chronicle by Betty J. Mills, 
Texas Tech Press, 1985.

quote:

At Home Wear--the Wrapper
Carrying the distinction of frontier dress almost as marked as the bonnet 
and apron was the wrapper. It was a garment repeatedly in evidence, with 
written and pictorial records of its popularity. Mention was made as early 
as 1830 in a newcomer's letter of "neighbor ladies dressed in neat 
wrappers" who came to call.

end quote

The quote is from A New History of Texas, by A. J. H. Pennybacker, 
privately printed



Another reference is one of my favorites. It is from The Checkered Years A 
Bonanza Farm Diary 1884-1888, Mary Dodge Woodward, Minnesota Historical 
Society Press, St. Paul, 1989.
quote:
I have cut out the dress which Nellie sent me so as to finish it before 
Daniel arrives. Were I further west, I should not dare to make it "Mother 
Hubbard" as the paper says that in Pendleton, Oregon, that type of costume 
is prohibited unless worn belted. Bills to that effect have been posted in 
the town, ladies who violate the ordinance being fined heavily. The alleged 
reason is that such garments "scare horses, cause accidents and ruin business."
end quote
The Checkered Years is an actual diary written by Mary, published years 
later by her granddaughter.


So based on these 2 references, wrappers were worn in public at least 
sometimes.

Kim

--=====================_13167978==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
I found an interesting reference in<i> Calico Chronicle</i> by Betty J.
Mills, Texas Tech Press, 1985.<br>
<br>
quote:<br>
<br>
At Home Wear--the Wrapper<br>
Carrying the distinction of frontier dress almost as marked as the bonnet
and apron was the wrapper. It was a garment repeatedly in evidence, with
written and pictorial records of its popularity. Mention was made as
early as 1830 in a newcomer's letter of &quot;neighbor ladies dressed in
neat wrappers&quot; who came to call.<br>
<br>
end quote<br>
<br>
The quote is from <i>A New History of Texas</i>, by A. J. H. Pennybacker,
privately printed<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Another reference is one of my favorites. It is from <i>The Checkered
Years A Bonanza Farm Diary 1884-1888,</i> Mary Dodge Woodward, Minnesota
Historical Society Press, St. Paul, 1989.<br>
quote:<br>
I have cut out the dress which Nellie sent me so as to finish it before
Daniel arrives. Were I further west, I should not dare to make it
&quot;Mother Hubbard&quot; as the paper says that in Pendleton, Oregon,
that type of costume is prohibited unless worn belted. Bills to that
effect have been posted in the town, ladies who violate the ordinance
being fined heavily. The alleged reason is that such garments &quot;scare
horses, cause accidents and ruin business.&quot;<br>
end quote<br>
<i>The Checkered Years </i>is an actual diary written by Mary, published
years later by her granddaughter.<br>
<br>
<br>
So based on these 2 references, wrappers were worn in public at least
sometimes.<br>
<br>
Kim<br>
</html>

--=====================_13167978==_.ALT--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 17:29:36 1999
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Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 21:50:42 -0500
From: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
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-Poster: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>

Hello members:

Thanks so much for the updates on the Canadian iceman story.

If I had chosen to do some searching (and me a librarian, tsk, tsk!)
instead of grumbling about the iniquities of the media, I suppose I
could
have had some information that much quicker, but it wouldn't have been
nearly as  enjoyable as your courteous and intelligent responses!

I'm not just sucking up - it's been one of those weeks at work after
which any pleasant human interaction is a breath of fresh air!

Sheridan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 17:30:05 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 15:23:13 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I had mentioned:

>> (I figured out how to sew and turn a bag lined cotehardie without
>> any hand sewing this way.) 

Teddy inquired:

> Ok, so share with the rest of us... if it's something you can explain by
> email.  If it isn't I shall just have to be disappointed (an maybe I'll
> sulk....<g>)

I'll try, but please don't hate me if it doesn't work. :-}

The cotehardie had a half length oversleeve with tippet attached. Rather than
making two separate garments, I faked in the undersleeve. I attached the
undersleeve to the lining and the oversleeve to the outer fabric. Taking the
two halves right sides together, I sewed them together around the bottom hem,
up one side of the placket, around the collar, and down the other side of the
placket, finishing along the bottom hem in one continuous seam.

To turn them, I inverted the entire thing out of the short oversleeve. This is
the tricky part, and it sometimes looks like a Möbius cotehardie. But, with
patience, it can be done. (Note: it worked because it was a men's cotehardie
that opened all the way down the front, and the two separate sleeves were not
sewn together.) If you are unsure if it will work, try doing a miniature mock
up of the garment.

I haven't figured out how to do it with a single sleeve once the cuff seam is
finished (or a jerkin once the armscye seam is finished), but I'm working on
it. ;-)

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 17:38:09 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Les Incroyables et Mervilleuses
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

Annora-

> I would  try looking in: 1) the Kyoto Costume Institute's "Revolution in
> Fashion-1715-1815" 2) LACMA's "An Elegant Art" & 3) Wilcox's, "Mode in
> Costume." Also, there might be something in one of the Arnold "Patterns of
> Fashion" books but I can't remember if she did one for mens' 18th c. There was
> something about Incroyables/Mervilleusses in my college fashion history
> textbook but I can't remember the name-I believe it was something like A Survey
> of Historic Fashion or Costume. The word Survey was definitely in the title.

Good Luck!
~Deb Rand



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 17:39:12 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <pZIYzEABkU43Iw4a@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:47:17 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

I didnt mean to put him off sorry.
If you are just collecting the skins; you wont have lots of peeled onions
about so the smell ;I was concerned aboy should not be so bad.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
----- Original Message -----
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins


>
> -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
> Thank you all for your helpful tips.  After Dave's post I thought I
> would just give up - let him get discouraged slowly.  But I will show
> him all your information, throw out the skins we have and make friendly
> with the local greengrocer when the DH gets round to actually wanting to
> do the dyeing.  And maybe I can find an event where he can be an
> interesting bit of living history and do his dyeing _outside_, and near
> someone else's neighbours. (We live in a flat with a shared drying green
> - might not be popular making smells there)
>
> Thank you all
>
> Jean
>
>
>
>
>
> In message <sDY51AA+g+33Iwhc@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>, Jean Waddie
> <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk> writes
> >
> >-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
> >
> >Hello all.  I'm not even going to think about telling you how little
> >sewing I actually do - can we make that hours per year, rather than per
> >week?
> >
> >Anyway, my DH has decided he's going to Hastings 2000, and wants to
> >natural-dye some of his kit with onion skins.  He's started collecting
> >them in an airtight biscuit tin, but my worry is that they will go
> >mouldy before he has enough to do anything with.  Can anyone reassure
> >me, or tell me the tricks to make sure they don't turn into something
> >oozy and disgusting that tries to take over the kitchen?
> >
> >I wouldn't want to discourage him, since it's the first time he's ever
> >started making something more than two weeks before the event :-)
> >
> >Jean
>
> --
> Jean Waddie
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3.0.6.32.19990916160816.007b1510@pop.utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoe terminology; wasCanadian Iceman update OT
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 00:05:26 +0100
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Marc, Thanks yet again for the following knowledge , you have led me to yet
another spiritual home on the 'net.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
 > -Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
 > little out
> of my period.  I will forward the question to the Crispin Coliquy though
> (at http://www.bootmaker.com/discus/ ), and ask them.  There are some
serious
> experts there.
>


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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: walnuts
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<< I have not tried dying cloth with walnut hulls,
but I would go with Black Walnuts, rather than English Walnuts, I think.
Anyone have real experience with both to share>>

Mentioned before : check Rita Buchanan's  A Weaver's Garden (published
about 1988 by Interweave Press). She's done a lot of dyeing with walnuts,
and covers it in books (she also discussed it in articles in Spin Off
magazine, if you have access to back issues.)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 18:00:13 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Les Incroyables et Mervilleuses
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 16:10:40 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


>For some reason, not sure which, I'm stuck on the idea of making a
stylized/exaggerated overcoat with big cuffs and lapels.  This somehow led
to
Les Incroyables -- an extreme style of dress that appeared in France
somewhere around the French Revolution.  I'm looking for information on said
fad.  I've checked Davenport & Boucher (they were still out from the last
project) and found nothing.  Does anyone know of a source that has more than
a single drawing or sentence about them?

Oh, a favorite of mine! (to look at not to wear)  There's not much around.
It was faddish, after all.  I have an 1802 Italian fashion plate labeled (in
Italian) "French Fashion on my dining room wall.  Imagine the usual
"grecian" white gown of the Mme Recamier sort with drawstring to fit the
decolletage.

In this fashion plate, Madame gazes demurely up and away from the viewer.
The viewer is treated to a neckline featuring "cherries out of season". Her
fashionably long, long scarf trails the ground.

With so exposed a bosom, this is not fall/winter wear.

Ah, but you were looking for wide lapeled coats.  2 museum catalogs to
search for: Modes et Revolutions (The Louvre? Galerie Layfayette?) and
Revolution in Fashion (Kyoto Museum of Fashion). Both of these came out
about the time of the French Bicentennial in 1989.

Bon chance!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 18:16:29 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 16:27:25 -0700
From: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

I'm a bit delayed plowing through my email, but I thought I might add a few personal experiences on my own experience developing a zoot suit pattern.  

We do a lot of swing dancing, so  I went straight to the folks who seemed to have the best outfits and I started asking them to let me look at their outfits.  The best ones are made by a firm in Fullerton, California called El Pachuco.  There are other companies also making zoots, but most of these are just large suits scaled down to smaller sizes--they lose the great fit of the true tailored thing. You can really tell the difference between the ones that really are properly patterned and tailored and the cheap knock-offs.

Incidently, El Pachuco has a website at www.elpachuco.com.  It's a good place for research into the "look".  Another inspiring site is: http://www.smithsonianmag.si.edu/smithsonian/issues99/mar99/swing.html

A few points about the better zoot suits. They tend to be made from very lightweight gab, have lots of interfacing and the elements of finishing seen in better tailoring (yeah--can't get past this).  The true defining characteristic seems to be princess seams in the front (always) and often in the back as well.  These suits were apparently designed to show off that a guy has a really good chest (recall, the first to wear these were tough gang members who often were also draft resisters during early WWII).  This styling detail also makes it a great style for women, since it shows the curviness of a female figure.

I finally hit the local fab store in search for an alterable pattern.  The closest I could find was Neue Mode V 22178.  You may have to search for this pattern company, but I do know you can telephone order it from G Street Fabrics (www.gstreetfabrics.com).  It really is the only pattern I could find with the right cut to get the zoot look.  

Now mind you, the pattern itself looks like a really goofy waiter-looking jacket.  But it does have the key styling details required for a zoot suit (and a really funky two-tone lapel option I may try to play with in when I make this up again).  To adapt it, you will have to extend the jacket pattern to make it longer, so it reaches mid-thigh.  I also widened the lapels as well (don't forget to also extend the facing accordingly as well. Oh!  And don't forget the two-tone shoes!

Now, one warning if you decide to go down this path as well:  it's not a good choice for a first attempt at making a suit!  The instructions are in barely intelligible translated german--so caveat sewer!

Another thing--I used a vintage pants pattern for the slacks--so I don't have any helpful hints for the slacks except to make them as high cut (on the chest) as you dare and don't forget:  wide legs, pleats, button fly and buttons for your braces are must-haves!

One final historic note...I've taken a couple of Frankie Manning workshops (Frankie was one of the first swing dancers and is credited for inventing aerial moves so closely associated with the dance) and got the opportunity to ask him last year whether zoots were really popular back in the golden days of swing dancing at the Savoy.  He said that there was a short time at the beginning of WWII when they were popular in Harlem, but mostly it was more popular with Latinos.  He said Cab Calloway would wear zoots, but not all the time.  Frankie said that back then he had one zoot jacket, in black (he said the wild colors of today's suits weren't really seen on the street), but most of the time, he wore a regular suit.  

Okay--I'm off to sew!

Mary
---
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 19:00:18 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 16:57:31 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: H-COST: OT: Getting Pine Pitch Out
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>


Help! My son just sat on a pine tree this afternoon that was covered with
pitch. He now has it smeared all over the bottom of his polyester shorts.
Any ideas on the best way to remove it?

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 19:06:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 17:13:47 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Getting Pine Pitch Out
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 04:57 PM 09/16/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>
>
>Help! My son just sat on a pine tree this afternoon that was covered with
>pitch. He now has it smeared all over the bottom of his polyester shorts.
>Any ideas on the best way to remove it?
>
>Julie Adams
              I think I recall my grandma using turpentine--but that was
before polyester...I'd hesitate to advise you to use it, not knowing
whether the turpentine might dissolve or otherwise affect the poly.  Anyone
else?  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 19:16:02 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gore or panel??
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 17:28:27 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Thank you!

Suddenly it became much easier to understand what goes on in patterns and
descriptions of historic clothing (modern too).  I used to think these were
all interchangeable terms . . . you can imagine how many times I've re-cut
and refitted things.  This is a BIG help.

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: September 16, 1999 5:51 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gore or panel??


>
>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>And there's also "godet" which seems to be identical to "gore" -- a
>triangle, and "gusset" which differs from those by being sewn all the
>way around, such as putting extra fabric at the underarm.
>
>Michelle wrote:
>
>>   Usually, a gore is triangular in shape and a panel is rectangle.
>>     Example for a skirt or dress:  A gore would be used to widen the
bottom
>> half.  A panel would be used to widen the whole thing fairly evenly.
>--
>It's nearly time for October Fools' Day -- the Southern Hemisphere
>version of April Fools' Day.
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 19:40:22 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 17:48:28 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Rare relics record history of Silk Road]
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

This was posted on the Silk Road list
(information about subscribing at the bottom)
It's from the China Daily

> Rare relics record history of Silk Road
> 
> URUMQI (Xinhua) — A garment made of fabrics with dazzling gold foil sewn on
> applique work, dating back to the Western Han Dynasty (206 BC - AD 24), was
> recently unearthed from a tomb in Lop Nur, a desolate area in Northwest
> China's Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.
> 
> Chinese archaeologists believe this is the earliest woven material with gold
> patterns ever found in China.
> 
> The discovery pushes the history of fabric-making with gold back 1,000 years
> earlier than previously believed,” said Li Wenying, an archaeologist
> participating in the excavation.
> 
> The gold foils were sewn by two different methods. One was to cut coloured
> silk in the shape of flower buds, petals, stamen and fruits, which were then
> pinned to the collar, sleeves, lower hem, and back of the garment. Then gold
> foils were pasted on the silk designs. The other way was to spread gold
> powder onto the design.
> 
> One archaeologist, Zhou Jinling, described the embroidery as distinctive,
> dazzling and harmonious in colour.”
> 
> This garment was one of the 200-plus rare cultural relics unearthed from 32
> tombs built in the period between the Han and Jin dynasties (206 BC- AD 420)
> at the Yingpan Ruins in Lop Nur.
> 
> The site lies 200 kilometres east of Loulan, one of the busiest commercial
> cities on the ancient Silk Road which served as a transportation artery for
> the flow of goods from China to the West more than 2,000 years ago. The
> flourishing trade route began to decline in the fourth century.
> 
> The recent excavation, which lasted for more than a month, was the
> continuation of a protective excavation begun in 1995. During the three-year
> period, Chinese archaeologists opened 32 ancient tombs and cleared more than
> 100 robbed tombs over a large area.
> 
> One-third of the unearthed objects were burial accessories, including
> garments, wooden, bronze, and lacquer wares, gold and silver ornaments, and
> pearls.
> 
> The most significant finding was three woolen robes with designs of flying
> men, eagles, and snakes woven with a jacquard technique.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: 05/17/99
> Author:
> Copyright© by China Daily
> 
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 19:45:07 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Les Incroyables et Mervilleuses
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 99 20:58:41 -0000
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>

Cindy Abel wrote,

>It started with the trial and execution of Louis XVI in early 1793
>and ended with the arrest and guillotining of Robespierre and his
>party in (I think) July, 1794.).

     Many of the illustrations I saw were dated 1797. Maybe a case of the 
documentation of the fashion coming after the fact?

     _The Cut of Men's Clothes_ has some illustrations, as well as some 
pattern drafts that are useful. I had a lovely brown & blue wide-stripe 
silk that finally became an Incroyable coat in (oddly enough) 1997. My 
husband made the little slouchy boots to go with the outfit. He also got 
his hair cut appropriately and I curled it with a curling iron. Great fun!

     Jen, if you'd like to see a jpeg let me know! 

     -Carol Kocian
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 19:48:56 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 20:59:56 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Getting Pine Pitch Out
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dustins6@aol.com

In a message dated 9/16/99 8:13:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
savaskan@sd.znet.com writes:

<< Help! My son just sat on a pine tree this afternoon that was covered with
 pitch. He now has it smeared all over the bottom of his polyester shorts.
 Any ideas on the best way to remove it? >>
I don't know about it's effect on polyester, but when my kids get into our 
pine trees, I've always used good old rubbing alcohol to get it off of their 
skin and it works like a charm. ( Whoa, talk about a run on sentence <G>)
Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 20:04:30 1999
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	 Thu, 16 Sep 1999 18:14:26 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Les Incroyables et Mervilleuses
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 21:23:34 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Those wide lapelled coats were called redingotes, and worn
by men as well as women.  They were mainstream weather
coats, although the Incroyables certainly would have made
theirs with higher collars, wider cuffs, etc.

 R. L. Shep's annotated version of the Countess of Wilton's
1846 The Book of Costume or Annal of Fashion quotes the
memoirs of Madame Junot (1784-1838), the Duchess of
d'Abrantes, as followes:  The *Muscadens* "portaient des
redingotes grises, avec des collets noirs, des cravates
vertes; et leurs cheveux, au lieu d'etre a la Titus, comme
ceux de la Plupart des jeunes gens, etaient nattes, poudres,
et releves, avec un peigne, tandis que de chaque cote de la
figure, descendait use longue face appelee, en style du
temps, *oreilles de chien.*"

 R. L. Shep's note defines Muscadens as "literally,
musk-comfits; applied perjoratively after 1794 in Parisian
slang to a type of perfumed fop, dandy, or exquisite of the
upper middle class."   Madame Junot was born Laure Permon;
she was wife of the French ambassador to Portugual, and she
wrote *Souvenirs Historiques sur Napolean, la Revolution, le
Directoire, l'Empire et la Restauration.* Her detailed
descriptive account of her own wedding trousseau quoted on
pages 252-254 in The Book of Costume is well worth reading
as an inspirational resource.

Hope H. Dunlap


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Cynthia Barnes
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 7:11 PM
> To: H-Costume (E-mail)
> Subject: H-COST: Les Incroyables et Mervilleuses
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
>
>
> >For some reason, not sure which, I'm stuck on the idea of
making a
> stylized/exaggerated overcoat with big cuffs and lapels.
> This somehow led
> to
> Les Incroyables -- an extreme style of dress that appeared
in France
> somewhere around the French Revolution.  I'm looking for
> information on said
> fad.  I've checked Davenport & Boucher (they were still
out
> from the last
> project) and found nothing.  Does anyone know of a source
> that has more than
> a single drawing or sentence about them?
>
> Oh, a favorite of mine! (to look at not to wear)  There's
not
> much around.
> It was faddish, after all.  I have an 1802 Italian fashion
> plate labeled (in
> Italian) "French Fashion on my dining room wall.  Imagine
the usual
> "grecian" white gown of the Mme Recamier sort with
drawstring
> to fit the
> decolletage.
>
> In this fashion plate, Madame gazes demurely up and away
from
> the viewer.
> The viewer is treated to a neckline featuring "cherries
out
> of season". Her
> fashionably long, long scarf trails the ground.
>
> With so exposed a bosom, this is not fall/winter wear.
>
> Ah, but you were looking for wide lapeled coats.  2 museum
catalogs to
> search for: Modes et Revolutions (The Louvre? Galerie
Layfayette?) and
> Revolution in Fashion (Kyoto Museum of Fashion). Both of
> these came out
> about the time of the French Bicentennial in 1989.
>
> Bon chance!
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> 408.570.1023
> Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
> Phoenix Technologies
> 411 E. Plumeria Dr.
> San Jose CA 95134
> "I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all
> nervous and give
> the wrong answers."
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 20:19:27 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Les Incroyables et Mervilleuses
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 21:37:13 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

A good resourse for the period is also by RLShep, Federalist
and Recengy Costume: 1790-1819, including a transcription of
the oldest tailoring book in the English language, The
Tailor's Complete Guide, published in London in 1796,
fashion news, descriptions, and plates from the 1796 The
Lady's Magazine and more, ISBN# 0-914046-25-x.  Available
form www.rlshep.com?  Not sure.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Hope H. Dunlap
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 9:24 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: H-COST: Les Incroyables et Mervilleuses
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>
> Those wide lapelled coats were called redingotes, and worn
> by men as well as women.  They were mainstream weather
> coats, although the Incroyables certainly would have made
> theirs with higher collars, wider cuffs, etc.
>
>  R. L. Shep's annotated version of the Countess of
Wilton's
> 1846 The Book of Costume or Annal of Fashion quotes the
> memoirs of Madame Junot (1784-1838), the Duchess of
> d'Abrantes, as followes:  The *Muscadens* "portaient des
> redingotes grises, avec des collets noirs, des cravates
> vertes; et leurs cheveux, au lieu d'etre a la Titus, comme
> ceux de la Plupart des jeunes gens, etaient nattes,
poudres,
> et releves, avec un peigne, tandis que de chaque cote de
la
> figure, descendait use longue face appelee, en style du
> temps, *oreilles de chien.*"
>
>  R. L. Shep's note defines Muscadens as "literally,
> musk-comfits; applied perjoratively after 1794 in Parisian
> slang to a type of perfumed fop, dandy, or exquisite of
the
> upper middle class."   Madame Junot was born Laure Permon;
> she was wife of the French ambassador to Portugual, and
she
> wrote *Souvenirs Historiques sur Napolean, la Revolution,
le
> Directoire, l'Empire et la Restauration.* Her detailed
> descriptive account of her own wedding trousseau quoted on
> pages 252-254 in The Book of Costume is well worth reading
> as an inspirational resource.
>
> Hope H. Dunlap
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
> [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Cynthia Barnes
> > Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 7:11 PM
> > To: H-Costume (E-mail)
> > Subject: H-COST: Les Incroyables et Mervilleuses
> >
> >
> >
> > -Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
> >
> >
> > >For some reason, not sure which, I'm stuck on the idea
of
> making a
> > stylized/exaggerated overcoat with big cuffs and lapels.
> > This somehow led
> > to
> > Les Incroyables -- an extreme style of dress that
appeared
> in France
> > somewhere around the French Revolution.  I'm looking for
> > information on said
> > fad.  I've checked Davenport & Boucher (they were still
> out
> > from the last
> > project) and found nothing.  Does anyone know of a
source
> > that has more than
> > a single drawing or sentence about them?
> >
> > Oh, a favorite of mine! (to look at not to wear)
There's
> not
> > much around.
> > It was faddish, after all.  I have an 1802 Italian
fashion
> > plate labeled (in
> > Italian) "French Fashion on my dining room wall.
Imagine
> the usual
> > "grecian" white gown of the Mme Recamier sort with
> drawstring
> > to fit the
> > decolletage.
> >
> > In this fashion plate, Madame gazes demurely up and away
> from
> > the viewer.
> > The viewer is treated to a neckline featuring "cherries
> out
> > of season". Her
> > fashionably long, long scarf trails the ground.
> >
> > With so exposed a bosom, this is not fall/winter wear.
> >
> > Ah, but you were looking for wide lapeled coats.  2
museum
> catalogs to
> > search for: Modes et Revolutions (The Louvre? Galerie
> Layfayette?) and
> > Revolution in Fashion (Kyoto Museum of Fashion). Both of
> > these came out
> > about the time of the French Bicentennial in 1989.
> >
> > Bon chance!
> > --cin
> > Cynthia Barnes
> > 408.570.1023
> > Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
> > Phoenix Technologies
> > 411 E. Plumeria Dr.
> > San Jose CA 95134
> > "I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all
> > nervous and give
> > the wrong answers."
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________
> _____
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 22:17:04 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Online Smock/T-tunic pattern generator
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 21:32:31 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Drea,

Worked great for me.

My friend Drea, amazing, isn't she?

Kathlene

----------
> From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
> Subject: H-COST: Online Smock/T-tunic pattern generator
> Date: Thursday, September 16, 1999 3:20 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> 
> OK, it's finally finished:  I've created a web-based Elizabethan Smock
> pattern generator, and instructions on sewing it together.  You input
your
> measurements, and it generates customized instructions and to-scale
> pictures of the pattern pieces. It also calculates how much fabric
> you'll need, and shows a diagram of the most economical way to lay the
> pieces out. It also works for T-Tunics. It's at:
> 
> http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/smockpat/
> 
> It works well for me, but I'm only one set of measurements :)   Please,
> try it out if you're interested--and let me know how it works for you.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> Drea 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 22:30:53 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Oh rats!
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 21:48:50 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Ok, I have patiently saved my hair and have managed to fill a knee high
stocking with it, all with the intention of making a 'rat'.  So, now what
do I do?

There must be a better container to put it in.  The hair sticks out every
which way from the stocking.  What type of fabric is recommended and what
is the best shape to use? 

Anyone out there with some good ideas? 

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 22:33:36 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 22:40:26 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: pitch removal
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>Help! My son just sat on a pine tree this afternoon that was covered with
>pitch. He now has it smeared all over the bottom of his polyester shorts.
>Any ideas on the best way to remove it?
>
Goo Gone is your friend!  I haven't found any plastic that it damages, and
it removes all kinds of sticky things - gum, label adhesive, etc.
Obviously, try on inconspicuous area first.  You can find it in many
grocery, hardware, and discount stores with the other household chemicals.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 22:47:33 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Ever After
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 22:05:54 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I am finally able to sit down and get all my questions out tonight!!!

Now, I realize that when the movie Ever After came out, there was probably
several lively discussions regarding the costuming.  But what I am
wondering is, remember the scene when 'Cinderella' is swimming?  She is
wearing what looks like a stiffened under-bodice (?).  Is this a period
garment?

I have made 2 Italian Ren dresses.  The first was a very loose fitted
bodice, side opening, square necked, dress, taken off a modern jumper.  The
second one is a little tighter bodice, back opening with a round neck.  My
problem is, that being a ample women, of an age, the tightness in the
bodice just flattens out my bustline downward.  And no amount of pulling up
and bending over will help.  When I saw this under-bodice (?), I thought,
now that might work to keep my bust up, and even out the line down over the
diaphragm, so to lessen the 'pregnant' appearance.

I guess that even if it is not a period underpinning, I will probably try
making one just to see if it gives me the right silhouette.  But I would
appreciate any input.


Thank you,

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 22:50:10 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: pitch removal
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 22:07:25 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I have also seen Goo Gone at Cost Plus and Pier One.  Great Stuff!!!

Kathlene

----------
> From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Re: pitch removal
> Date: Thursday, September 16, 1999 9:40 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
> 
> >Help! My son just sat on a pine tree this afternoon that was covered
with
> >pitch. He now has it smeared all over the bottom of his polyester
shorts.
> >Any ideas on the best way to remove it?
> >
> Goo Gone is your friend!  I haven't found any plastic that it damages,
and
> it removes all kinds of sticky things - gum, label adhesive, etc.
> Obviously, try on inconspicuous area first.  You can find it in many
> grocery, hardware, and discount stores with the other household
chemicals.
> 
> Sandy
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 23:05:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 21:14:50 -0700
From: Florence Palmer <FJPalmer@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Florence Palmer <FJPalmer@earthlink.net>

Ok so now what would you do when you ask your hubby what style or period of
dress he would like you to make and he says   I dont care.  What would you
do.   My hubby is 5'8" his shoulders are aprox. 64 inches and his waist is 54
or so.   What could I make him to make him 1. comfortable. and 2. period.

Pleas any help would be appreciated.

Maykn Crofte

:o)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 23:25:48 1999
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

Thanks for all the ideas!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 23:32:56 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909161710.KAA24889@zeus.directcon.net> <37E1C039.4AD4705F@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Men's Costuming
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:44:50 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

You make sure you make pants that they can go to the restroom easily and can
cover ALL the leg. You make a tunic that feels like silk on his skin.
Anything else that you make to go over that is up to your imagination and
his favorite colors. Believe me so long as he likes the way it feels against
his skin and lets him go do his business easily he will wear anything over
it. :)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide

----- Original Message -----
From: Florence Palmer <FJPalmer@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Men's Costuming


:
: -Poster: Florence Palmer <FJPalmer@earthlink.net>
:
: Ok so now what would you do when you ask your hubby what style or period
of
: dress he would like you to make and he says   I dont care.  What would you
: do.   My hubby is 5'8" his shoulders are aprox. 64 inches and his waist is
54
: or so.   What could I make him to make him 1. comfortable. and 2. period.
:
: Pleas any help would be appreciated.
:
: Maykn Crofte
:
: :o)
:
:  _________________________________________________________________
:  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
:  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
:

 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 23:33:00 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909170358.VAA01459@net.indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ever After
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:52:00 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

No answer just more questions.

What was that leather tunic/jerkin the prince was wearing? My husband who
rarely pipes up for me to make him something really nice really like this
whole outfit. So here I am trying to find the period representations of the
various pieces and cannot find anything! Help! At this point I am willing to
go with original patterns that do not resemble anything strictly period to
those lands.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide

----- Original Message -----
From: K & J Hopkins <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 11:05 PM
Subject: H-COST: Ever After

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 23:33:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 00:44:50 EDT
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/17/99 4:19:00 AM !!!First Boot!!!, 
FJPalmer@earthlink.net writes:

<< Ok so now what would you do when you ask your hubby what style or period of
 dress he would like you to make and he says   I dont care.  What would you
 do.   My hubby is 5'8" his shoulders are aprox. 64 inches and his waist is 54
 or so.   What could I make him to make him 1. comfortable. and 2. period.
 
 Pleas any help would be appreciated.
 
 Maykn Crofte
 
 :o) >>


I hope you are refering to SCA "period", because that is what i am going to 
attempt to suugest a solution for....
    My first suggestion would have been Tudor, but I'm not sure how advanced 
a seamstress you are, and how well your husband would take to multi-layers.  
Since HVIII was such a large man as he got older...his fashions tend to 
flatter larger men.
    My second suggestion, and perhaps the better of the two:  Houppelande!!!! 
It is a wonderfully great garmant and looks really well on larger 
men...especially if you make it no shorter than a bastard Houppelande.  
Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 16 23:42:39 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 21:52:25 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Men's Costuming
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

        First of all--WHAT period?  Medieval?  There are a lot of
non-SCAdians on h-costume. 
:-)
        Well, what I might do, is find some illustrations of stuff I think
would look really fine on him, and some that you know he wouldn't wear on a
bet.  Tell him you've found some and you'd like him to tell you what he
thinks...and pray his taste agrees with yours. :-)  Gentlemen of the
list--is that a reasonable plan of action that might elicit the lady's
spouse's choice of attire in a subtle way?   Carol

At 09:14 PM 09/16/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Florence Palmer <FJPalmer@earthlink.net>
>
>Ok so now what would you do when you ask your hubby what style or period of
>dress he would like you to make and he says   I dont care.  What would you
>do.   My hubby is 5'8" his shoulders are aprox. 64 inches and his waist is 54
>or so.   What could I make him to make him 1. comfortable. and 2. period.
>
>Pleas any help would be appreciated.
>
>Maykn Crofte
>
>:o)
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 00:03:18 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

J,K,S&A Baird wrote:

> Herjolfsnes
>
> hair  yolf (rhymes with golf) ness
>
> Just like it's spelled!
>
> Kim (whose grandparents were mostly Norwegian)

Are any of the syllables accented or stressed?

--Charlene

--
Eagles may soar, but weasels aren't sucked into jet engines.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 00:00:27 1999
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From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Deborah Pulliam wrote:

> << BP could mean yesterday or a week ago or a year ago or a million years ago.>>
>
> I thin k perhaps you missed the point. BP is *in conjunction* with a number
> -- as in 500 BP (which means 500 years ago), or 250 BP (250 years ago.)
>
> You don't simply say something is "AD" -- you add the year. This works for
> those working within a Christian calendar,  but as someone pointed out,
> there are many people in this world who don't (and some of those people
> have some of the best artifacts.)

Let's see if I can clarify the problem (or just make it muddier).  When using "AD"
or "CE" the starting point is "0".  When using "BP" you need to how "present" is
defined.  I believe someone said "present" is calculated from 1950.  That's not
intuitive and one would to know that to understand the "BP" dating.

--Charlene

--
Eagles may soar, but weasels aren't sucked into jet engines.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 00:30:56 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ever After
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:50:45 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

My husband's question is "Why does the Prince wear that same stupid (his
words) leather jerkin through the whole movie?  (he forgets about the
costume ball and wedding)  He is the Prince after all, doesn't he have more
clothes?"  Otherwise he likes the movie and it is his often his second
choice after 'You've Got Mail' for a video night.

Kathlene

----------
> From: Franchesca Havas <ches@io.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Ever After
> Date: Thursday, September 16, 1999 10:52 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
> 
> No answer just more questions.
> 
> What was that leather tunic/jerkin the prince was wearing? My husband who
> rarely pipes up for me to make him something really nice really like this
> whole outfit. So here I am trying to find the period representations of
the
> various pieces and cannot find anything! Help! At this point I am willing
to
> go with original patterns that do not resemble anything strictly period
to
> those lands.
> 
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> Dallas, Texas
> motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: K & J Hopkins <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 11:05 PM
> Subject: H-COST: Ever After
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:02:32 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>




>
>-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
>
>What I usually do when I need to do some onion skin dyeing is go to the
>store and clean out all the old onion skins from the bin; the cashier is
>usually very amused that I've got a bag of old onion skins, and interested
>in the dyeing project.  And, of course, I usually buy something while I'm
>there.
>
>-- Mara
>
The cashiers I get say, "Are you dying eggs?"  It is highly amusing and
makes me want to pop off with something really outrageous.  :)
   They are used to it. People do it all the time.  I actually had one
cashier charge me.  It weighted at 12 cents.  I left angry.  I figured the
store should have paid me the 12 cents for cleaning up their bin!
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 00:44:38 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Onion skins
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


->Ok, I admit, I haven't ever done this, but...
>
>As one collected a bag or some measure of "enough" onion skins, could one
>not boil them in a little bit of water to create the dye, strain it, and
>then freeze the 'dye'?  As one collected another bag of skins, boil
>them in the previously made dye?  Or conversely, just collect small
>batches of dye in the freezer?


 In order for the dye to take, you  have to add vinegar.  I would be worried
that the vinegar wouldn't freeze well.  It is cheap enough to make, I
wouldn't spend the money paying the electric bill to keep it frozen.
  Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 01:07:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:21:46 +0000
From: "S. & J. McDaniel" <fretknot@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: "S. & J. McDaniel" <fretknot@earthlink.net>

Sorry if this thread's run out. I'm just catching up on back e-mail.

> > Karie Mitchell wrote:
> > 
> > I have some other questions:
>         1.  How many on this list do costuming professionally?
>         2.  How many are doing this as a hobby?'
>         3.  How many hours do you devote to sewing?


1 & 2:  Strictly hobby. I don't really enjoy sewing, and only do it for
costumes. I do love historic dress, especially medieval, and adore this
list because of the information so freely shared by so many people more
learned than I.

3. I spend at least 2-4 hours every day on embroidery, mostly medieval
themes and techniques. I do some handsewing, and only use the sewing
machine if working on a big project.

I'm naturally a gold-blonde, recently assisted by Clairol to cover a
white streak growing to the left of my widow's peak.  Dyed it red once,
saw my mother in the mirror, and quickly bleached it back. Green eyes.

Sandy
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Message-ID: <011101bf00d6$0d3f0b20$2671fea9@gunsafes>
From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Getting Pine Pitch Out
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:29:52 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

After picking pine nuts, my hands have been covered.  I realize that skin is
very different than polyester but, I can tell you what I used. Butter. I
smeared butter all over my hands and rubbed. It was the only thing that seem
to work. Peanut butter might work also, because of the oil content. (and
that is recommended for fabric, gum I think)
  Michelle


>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>At 04:57 PM 09/16/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>>
>>-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>>
>>
>>Help! My son just sat on a pine tree this afternoon that was covered with
>>pitch. He now has it smeared all over the bottom of his polyester shorts.
>>Any ideas on the best way to remove it?
>>
>>Julie Adams
>              I think I recall my grandma using turpentine--but that was
>before polyester...I'd hesitate to advise you to use it, not knowing
>whether the turpentine might dissolve or otherwise affect the poly.  Anyone
>else?  Carol
> _________________________________________________________________
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gore or panel??
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:32:48 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



One more thing to add.  Gores help with shaping and panels add more bulk.
Michelle
>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>Thank you!
>
>Suddenly it became much easier to understand what goes on in patterns and
>descriptions of historic clothing (modern too).  I used to think these were
>all interchangeable terms . . . you can imagine how many times I've re-cut
>and refitted things.  This is a BIG help.
>
>Zelda
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: September 16, 1999 5:51 AM
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Gore or panel??
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>>
>>And there's also "godet" which seems to be identical to "gore" -- a
>>triangle, and "gusset" which differs from those by being sewn all the
>>way around, such as putting extra fabric at the underarm.
>>
>>Michelle wrote:
>>
>>>   Usually, a gore is triangular in shape and a panel is rectangle.
>>>     Example for a skirt or dress:  A gore would be used to widen the
>bottom
>>> half.  A panel would be used to widen the whole thing fairly evenly.
>>--
>>It's nearly time for October Fools' Day -- the Southern Hemisphere
>>version of April Fools' Day.
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 01:17:40 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Men's Costuming
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

What time period is your costume. It would narrow things down if you matched
in this respect.
  Michelle
><< Ok so now what would you do when you ask your hubby what style or period
of
> dress he would like you to make and he says   I dont care.  What would you
> do.   My hubby is 5'8" his shoulders are aprox. 64 inches and his waist is
54
> or so.   What could I make him to make him 1. comfortable. and 2. period.
>
> Pleas any help would be appreciated.
>
> Maykn Crofte


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 01:33:27 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 23:49:43 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Carol wrote:

> Well, what I might do, is find some illustrations of stuff I think would look
> really fine on him, and some that you know he wouldn't wear on a bet. Tell him
> you've found some and you'd like him to tell you what he thinks...and pray his
> taste agrees with yours. :-)  Gentlemen of the list--is that a reasonable plan
> of action that might elicit the lady's spouse's choice of attire in a subtle
> way?

That would work. It might help sway him in a positive direction if you show
him pictures of warriors and Kings for some of the styles that might be
perceived of as less than manly...you know, the poofy pants. :-)

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 22:29:35 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: pronunciation
In-Reply-To: <37E1CB96.B6CE22F2@flash.net>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:03 AM 09/17/1999 -0500, you wrote: -Poster: Charlene Charette
<charlene@flash.net>
>J,K,S&A Baird wrote: Herjolfsnes  hair  yolf (rhymes with golf) ness Just
like it's spelled!
>> Kim (whose grandparents were mostly Norwegian)
>           Are any of the syllables accented or stressed?--Charlene
            It's possible I put the accent on a syllable other than the one
in Norwegian, but I find myself emphasizing 'jolf'.  Secondary accent on
'Her', tertiary [least] on 'nes'.-- Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 01:57:36 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 00:06:55 -0700
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: BP still means "blood pressure" to me
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

Marc wrote:
***************
"BP" technically means "Before Present", where "Present" is an assumed date 
of 1950.  This way the term remains meaningful, regardless of when we look
at the date.
As for being "PC", it's not.  It's a means of expressing accuracy to anyone, 
by anyone, regardless of the dating system that they use - and has been so
for many, many years.
***************

1950?  Why 1950?  How widely is this known?  I hadn't heard it before.  How
long will anyone keep feeling that 1950 is "present"?

I'd like to see a dating system that isn't based on someone else's
religion, but I don't think this is it.

Leslie
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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair color
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 04:54:36 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 20:20
Subject: H-COST: Hair color


>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>
>I've been considering the Clairol Natural Instincts Black Cherry colorant,
>ever since someone told me it turned her grey hair bright purple.  Now THAT
>sounds like fun!
>
I used that exact shade several times, and it gave my brown hair a
delightful burgandy cast with purple highlights on my premature grey hairs
and the blond hairs that just won't die.

Anya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 06:11:41 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 06:17:50 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Seams in leather
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Leslie Helms wrote:
> 
> Perhaps someone else has posted this and I missed it.  One feasible
> seam in leather, and the flattest one, is to overlap the two pieces
> and sew the overlap area.  With light, supple leather the bulk isn't a
> problem, but heavier leathers don't fold flat.  Obviously the overlap
> must be carefully figured, either by adding a small seam allowance to
> both meeting edges or by cutting one edge on the seam line and leaving
> an allowance on the other.
>  When double-stitched, this seam is quite strong (it can be enhanced
> by glueing first) and it gives the general look of a felled seam.

Actually, you can do this with heavier leather by shaving down the
thickness of the leather at the seam.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 06:12:35 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 06:23:26 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Not a red-head, and some other questions.
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Karie Mitchell wrote:
> 
> I have some other questions:
> How many on this list do costuming professionally?

Guess I'd be a semiprofessional.  Most of my sewing is for my dad's
plays at the high school where he teaches.  I also sometimes costume his
colleagues musicals (when I do it's three to four productions a year
rather than two).  I also do some sewing for Ren Faire but prefer to
teach someone how to do it rather than do it myself.

> How many are doing this as a hobby?'

Well, it's been a hobby of mine for 26+ years...I've only been doing the
plays for 3 (finally got my dad to believe it was cheaper to build up
his own stock rather than rent!!).

> How many hours do you devote to sewing?

That varies...during a production I may sew 8-14 hours a day.  Otherwise
it's probably averaging out to about 2-3 hours a week.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 06:18:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 07:31:01 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>


> Let's see if I can clarify the problem (or just make it muddier).  
> When using "AD" or "CE" the starting point is "0". 

Er, 1, actually.  There was no year zero.  Ordinal numbering system. 
Hence the Millenium starting in 2001.

I agree that 1950 is hardly intuitive for "before present."  Which makes
*now* "-49BP" which is rather amusing.

cv
Main Entry: ordinal number
Function: noun
Date: 1607
1 : a number designating the place (as first, second, or third) occupied
by an item in an ordered sequence
--
It's nearly time for October Fools' Day -- the Southern Hemisphere
version of April Fools' Day.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 06:29:15 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <l03130300b40742173416@[207.167.66.18]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Getting Pine Pitch Out
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:40:34 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Sorry I have not experience of pine pitch, but there are a couple of things
that tend to work on large areas, before having to reach for solvents.
Make a sandwich of a tea towel and wad of paper kichen rolls; set your iron
as hot as you think right and try and iron through the sandwich, to absorb
the pitch out/
The other exteme; (, works with chewing gum;) Place the article in the
freezer. When its stiff  and using rubber gloves, break up the pitch. Lumps
should come away easily;smeary parts you can rub out. Might be worth trying.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
----- Original Message -----
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 1:57 AM
Subject: H-COST: OT: Getting Pine Pitch Out


>
> -Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>
>
> Help! My son just sat on a pine tree this afternoon that was covered with
> pitch. He now has it smeared all over the bottom of his polyester shorts.
> Any ideas on the best way to remove it?
>
> Julie Adams
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 06:33:39 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Les Incroyables et Mervilleuses
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Also look for The Age of Napoleon, Costume from Revolution to Empire, from 
the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 07:42:33 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Michelle wrote:
> 
>  In order for the dye to take, you  have to add vinegar.  I would be
> worried that the vinegar wouldn't freeze well.  It is cheap enough to
> make, I wouldn't spend the money paying the electric bill to keep it
> frozen.

Well, it's not in my book _Will It Freeze?: An A to Z Guide to Foods
that Freeze_ by Joan Hood so my dh has put a half cup into the freezer
to see how it does.  We shall let you know the results of our
experiment.  Wine vinegar is mentioned in one of the entries (how to
freeze cooked cucumbers).

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 08:27:39 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 09:36:57 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ever After
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/16/99 10:48:04 PM Mountain Daylight Time, ches@io.com 
writes:

<< So here I am trying to find the period representations of the
 various pieces and cannot find anything! Help! >>
 
This is where the worlds of the costume designer and the re-enactment folks 
differ.  My guess is that, although based on research, a lot of the wardrobe 
in "Ever After" is fantasy.  After all, the premise of the film is a fairy 
tale.  I can't imagine, for example, that that costume ball number ever 
existed in real life, although Inigo Jones manifested some theatrical 
costumes of that nature.  And did you notice how spic and span everything 
looked?  Hard to manage in the days before dry cleaners.  "Shakespeare in 
Love", on the other hand was much less "creative" with the period.  But even 
here, certain liberties have been taken.  When this sort of creativity is 
exercised without damaging the period feel, I enjoy the look.  But you might 
find it hard to find the actual garment in real life.  And they're mostly 
made on industrial sewing machines.  Just a different emphasis.  When a film 
does call for authenticity, a good costume designer generally becomes a 
re-enactment specialist right away.  Cheryl Odom, Costume Designer
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 08:28:25 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:46:29 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: BP (was H-COST: Canadian Iceman update - OT)
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
>Let's see if I can clarify the problem (or just make it muddier).  When
using "AD"
>or "CE" the starting point is "0".  When using "BP" you need to how
"present" is
>defined.  I believe someone said "present" is calculated from 1950.
That's not
>intuitive and one would to know that to understand the "BP" dating.

Um, no.  In either AD or CE there is no year "0".  That's why 2001 is the
beginning
of the next Millenium.

And you are right, the use of 1950 as a starting date is not intuitive to
someone
who isn't trained to use it.  That doesn't make it bad or wrong.  It's a
system that
in its own context (that of archaeology) makes perfect sense.  For that
matter, 
1 BCE as a date that's 2000 years before Right Now, or 1500 BP isn't
particularly 
intuitive either.  And certainly not, if the year Right Now happens to be
for you:
5760 AM, 1420 AH, Ji-Mau (16th year in the 78th cycle), 2,451,403.5 JD,
51,403 MJD, 
or for that matter 2752 AUD or 13 Acactl.

I suspect that it's unfamiliar to you because under normal circumstances,
since carbon-14 
dating (which is how it's derived) is usually not used with relatively
recent materials,
so you generally don't see it used in the media for items under a thousand
years old (at 
which point the (now 49 year) difference between "Present" as assumed, and
Right NOW as it 
currently is for the reader (something that changes every day, and will
continue to do so) 
isn't really important. Therefore the  whole thing generally doesn't come up.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 08:36:13 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 09:45:28 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Greenland gowns
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



While we're talking about those famed Greenland Gowns . . . Greenland was 
pretty far from the hub of the European fashion scene. It's fantastic that 
the gowns exist to copy (Black Swan, www.historicenterprises.com, sells a 
great men's gown that is a copy of one of them, NOT the 10-gore gown or 
whatever we're calling it). My question is, how accurate is it to copy these 
gowns for the rest of Europe? Did Greenlanders wear the same thing as 
everyone else? Were they maybe a bit behind the times? Were these garments 
worn throughout Europe -- but by only one class, or as only a small part of 
the garment choices available? Exactly how do these garments fit in the 
scheme of things?

Gail Finke

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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Yes! Please start one and then let us know the address! My husband sews (and 
very well) but is not particularly interested in reading hundreds of posts on 
a costuming list like this wonderful one. But he would love looking at a web 
site. For that matter, so would I. I do make him things occasionally, when I 
have time. Let's see, the last time was about five years ago . . .

Gail Finke

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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


Can anyone tell me anything good or bad in regards to
these books?  I am going to be making a resource books
purchase and would like some advice.

Thanks!

Sarah

Women's Costume in French texts of the Eleventh and
Twelfth centuries by Eunice Rathbone Goddard

Kings, Queens, Knights and Jesters: Making Medieval
Costumes by Lynn Edelman Schnurnberger

Handbook of Medieval costume by C. Willett Cunnington

Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince by Stella Mary
Newton

Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for
Women's Dress, Medieval - 1500 by Jean Hunnisett

Ecclesiastical Dress in the Medieval Near East by
Karel C Innemee (note: This book retails at about
$120, so I really need info on this one ;-)

Clothes Make the Man: Femal Cross Dressing in Medieval
Europe by Valerie R Hotchkiss

20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and
Personal Adornment by Francois Leon Louis Boucher

After A Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore and Wear
Vintage Styles by Frances Grimble
__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>One final historic note...I've taken a couple of Frankie Manning workshops
(Frankie was one of the first swing dancers and is credited for inventing
aerial moves so closely associated with the dance) and got the opportunity
to ask him last year whether zoots were really popular back in the golden
days of swing dancing at the Savoy.  He said that there was a short time at
the beginning of WWII when they were popular in Harlem, but mostly it was
more popular with Latinos.

This may be a regional difference.  My father, who lived in New York city,
thinks of zoot suits as a Black style, and my mother, who lived in Burbank
(near Los Angeles) remembers it as a Mexican style.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

I've used mayonaise and a handy little product called Goo Gone.  Both work
great.  Cynthia

Julie Adams wrote:

> -Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>
> Help! My son just sat on a pine tree this afternoon that was covered with
> pitch. He now has it smeared all over the bottom of his polyester shorts.
> Any ideas on the best way to remove it?
>
> Julie Adams
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Women's Costume in French texts of the Eleventh and
> Twelfth centuries by Eunice Rathbone Goddard

It is an interesting book, although it should actually read "Twelfth 
and Thirteenth Centuries" because that's what it really covers. (I 
think there was a bit of a problem with forgetting that 1150 is 12th 
Century, not 11th.) No pictures of useful nature. It's all text. 
Still, it has a lot of information (especially concerning names for 
garments in France at that time.)
 
> Kings, Queens, Knights and Jesters: Making Medieval
> Costumes by Lynn Edelman Schnurnberger

I'm not fond of this one. It always felt to me to be a book for 
making children's costumes for Halloween and gradeschool plays.
 
> Handbook of Medieval costume by C. Willett Cunnington

CW is a good author in general but this one is not as good as some of 
his more time specific books like the ones he's done on 16th C and 
19th C. It's more on a par with his Underwear book (which Dover puts 
out.)
 
> Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince by Stella Mary
> Newton

Wonderful book. Lots of good information on the time period 
including things from written sources of the time period. It's 
supposedly coming out in November as a re-release. (It was originally 
scheduled for this month.)
 
> Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for
> Women's Dress, Medieval - 1500 by Jean Hunnisett

It's a fun book but more theatrical in the cut of the clothes than in 
some of her later period books. It's a good place for an intermediate 
level costumer to start (as it's a bit much for the average beginner 
but not accurate enough for the advanced historical costumer.)

> 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and
> Personal Adornment by Francois Leon Louis Boucher

This is one of the standard "need to be in a library" books along 
with Davenport.

The other books I'm not as familiar with.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:39:17 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

I don't have most of the books on this list, but Boucher is darn near indispensible, at least
for the sheer numbers of pictures either of extant garments or period sources such as 
illuminations and portraits. I haven't even had time to plow through all the text yet. I have 
Hunnisett's 1500-1800 book, which has some really good information on techniques and 
fitting. I plan to use it a good bit when I make a Tudor for myself.  =)  (I think I've heard that 
her Medieval-1500 isn't quite as good, but I don't own it and couldn't tell you for sure) I have 
Newton on order from Amazon.com, impatiently waiting for it to be reprinted. 

Hope this helps!
--Jessica

> 
> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me anything good or bad in regards to
> these books?  I am going to be making a resource books
> purchase and would like some advice.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Sarah
> 
> Women's Costume in French texts of the Eleventh and
> Twelfth centuries by Eunice Rathbone Goddard
> 
> Kings, Queens, Knights and Jesters: Making Medieval
> Costumes by Lynn Edelman Schnurnberger
> 
> Handbook of Medieval costume by C. Willett Cunnington
> 
> Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince by Stella Mary
> Newton
> 
> Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for
> Women's Dress, Medieval - 1500 by Jean Hunnisett
> 
> Ecclesiastical Dress in the Medieval Near East by
> Karel C Innemee (note: This book retails at about
> $120, so I really need info on this one ;-)
> 
> Clothes Make the Man: Femal Cross Dressing in Medieval
> Europe by Valerie R Hotchkiss
> 
> 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and
> Personal Adornment by Francois Leon Louis Boucher
> 
> After A Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore and Wear
> Vintage Styles by Frances Grimble
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 


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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>


If I'm not familiar with the book, I deleted it from the list.

> Kings, Queens, Knights and Jesters: Making Medieval
> Costumes by Lynn Edelman Schnurnberger

A book on making costumes for children.  There are a couple cool
period pictures though.  I actually used some of them for
documentation at one time.

> Handbook of Medieval costume by C. Willett Cunnington

Good but not much primary documentation/

> Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince by Stella Mary Newton

A must have for 14th century!

> Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for
> Women's Dress, Medieval - 1500 by Jean Hunnisett

Not bad, not period but a good place to start.  She covers everything.

> 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and
> Personal Adornment by Francois Leon Louis Boucher

Worth having.  Lots and lots of pictures.


--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/17/1999 11:19:45 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com writes:

<< 
 Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for
 Women's Dress, Medieval - 1500 by Jean Hunnisett
  >>

"Stage & Screen" are the optimum words here; there have been many complaints 
from accuracy enthusiasts. [Some things are accurate, however]. The best 
thing about this book is its instructions on how to drape & deal with the 
large pattern pieces in this draped [as opposed to structured] period. I find 
her examples she uses to illustrate how things look to be very strange 
indeed: ballets, fantasy operas costumed in the 1960s.....is this all she 
came come up with to illustrate one of the most common periods in theatre?????

Still, the instructions on draping are well worth having.
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:07:14 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/17/1999 11:54:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< > 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and
 > Personal Adornment by Francois Leon Louis Boucher
 
 Worth having.  Lots and lots of pictures.
  >>

This was my text book when I was in college [1975-79] and the prose 
is...er...dull...to say the least. My only other complaint is if you open up 
this tome in the middle, you will find you're only to about 1550! It has 
aprox. 200 pages before you even get to the 12th century and yet covers the 
entire 20th century...with it's fast changing fashions...in about 10 pages! 
What's up wi'that?! Too many pages of stone age clothes!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 11:00:43 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990917152052.17475.rocketmail@web805.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 17:12:10 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 
> 
> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> 
> 
 > 
> Clothes Make the Man: Femal Cross Dressing in Medieval
> Europe by Valerie R Hotchkiss
> 
 Please please tell me who has got the above in stock; 
I couldnt find it when searching.
Dave
 L.D.Mundy 
Editor.Heritage Matters

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 11:08:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 09:28:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Amazon.com has it for $45.00. There may be a wait, but
they are selling it. ;-)

I found all of these on Amazon, though some are out of
print... but Amazon is nice about finding OOP books
for you... my boyfriend collects OOP books and has had
great luck with Amazon.

Sarah


> > Clothes Make the Man: Femal Cross Dressing in
> Medieval
> > Europe by Valerie R Hotchkiss
> > 
>  Please please tell me who has got the above in
> stock; 
> I couldnt find it when searching.
> Dave
>  L.D.Mundy 
> Editor.Heritage Matters


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:30:29 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

From: Gaelscot@aol.com
>While we're talking about those famed Greenland Gowns . . . Greenland was 
>pretty far from the hub of the European fashion scene. It's fantastic that 
>the gowns exist to copy (Black Swan, www.historicenterprises.com, sells a 
>great men's gown that is a copy of one of them, NOT the 10-gore gown or 
>whatever we're calling it). My question is, how accurate is it to copy these 
>gowns for the rest of Europe? Did Greenlanders wear the same thing as 
>everyone else? Were they maybe a bit behind the times? Were these garments 
>worn throughout Europe -- but by only one class, or as only a small part of 
>the garment choices available? Exactly how do these garments fit in the 
>scheme of things?
>Gail Finke

I think that's something that's up to debate.  Either we assume that they were
on the ultimate fringes and so they aren't accurate because they weren't on
the
cutting edge of fashion, or we can assume that they tried to keep up with the 
fashions as best as they could (hence the pleated front - v-necked bodice).

Even if we stick with things as most conservative, the general lines of the 
garments (gored skirts, assembly techniques, etc) resemble the few from other
Scandinavian areas (re: Bocksten, Moselund, Rønbjerg, Skjoldehamn, and such)
that we can assume that they are GENERALLY accurate.  Try thinking of them as
a homemade copy of a Kmart knockoff of a Paris original.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 11:12:34 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 09:27:36 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> << > 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and
>  > Personal Adornment by Francois Leon Louis Boucher
>
>  Worth having.  Lots and lots of pictures.
>
> This was my text book when I was in college [1975-79] and the prose
> is...er...dull...to say the least.

Hence my comment about pictures only.  *g*   I would suspect that the reason
there isn't much on the 20th century is twofold.  First, the book was published
too early in the century to expect much and second, I figure they didn't think
anyone would be interested in the 20th century for costuming.  I'm not saying
that's accurate or valid.  Just a thought.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:35:09 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>



> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> > << > 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and
> >  > Personal Adornment by Francois Leon Louis Boucher
> >
> >  Worth having.  Lots and lots of pictures.
> >
> > This was my text book when I was in college [1975-79] and the prose
> > is...er...dull...to say the least.
> 
> Hence my comment about pictures only.  *g*   I would suspect that the reason
> there isn't much on the 20th century is twofold.  First, the book was published
> too early in the century to expect much and second, I figure they didn't think
> anyone would be interested in the 20th century for costuming.  I'm not saying
> that's accurate or valid.  Just a thought.
> 
> Cynthia

It also occurs to me that anyone studying 20th century fashion has many sources at their 
disposal. This is not necessarily the case for pre-historic and very early clothing. I think it's 
kind of cool that Boucher has a lot of material on the clothing of "Stone Age" and early 
cultures. It isn't my primary area of study and I might not otherwise go out of my way to 
research it, but I still find it interesting.

Just my two cents!

--Jessica
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 09:42:25 -0700
Subject: H-COST: men's costume
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3020406145_99897_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

This was recently posted to the list in regard to Men's Costuming.
*That's because women just need more clothes (in any period)!
I haven't heard anyone discouraging the guys from jumping in.
Personally I'd like to hear more from guys who wear Japanese
or Middle Eastern costume. It's usually the interminable
kilt question or doublets. Or civil war uniforms. Yawn!
one reason is, i believe, that so very few guys are interested in costuming.
if they are, it's certain periods, as you've pointed out, or military stuff.
many have this weak excuse that they can't sew. 
some additions to the list of disregarded men's costumes: rhingraves,
justaucorps, cuts..*
I think it is very simplistic.  
There have been some great men's costumers, some great men tailors who have
made both men's and women's garments throughout history.
Presently many of the male costumers are gone due to AIDS.  Evenso I know of
a number of men who are costumers, both those who do tailoring and those who
don't, and I know from my contacts with them that they are very busy - but
most of them have been overly generous with information when asked serious
questions.  I doubt that many have the time for this list.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

--MS_Mac_OE_3020406145_99897_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>men's costume</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>This was recently posted to the list in regard to Men's =
Costuming.<BR>
*That's because women just need more clothes (in any period)!<BR>
I haven't heard anyone discouraging the guys from jumping in.<BR>
Personally I'd like to hear more from guys who wear Japanese<BR>
or Middle Eastern costume. It's usually the interminable<BR>
kilt question or doublets. Or civil war uniforms. Yawn!<BR>
one reason is, i believe, that so very few guys are interested in costuming=
. if they are, it's certain periods, as you've pointed out, or military stuf=
f. many have this weak excuse that they can't sew. <BR>
some additions to the list of disregarded men's costumes: rhingraves, justa=
ucorps, cuts..*<BR>
I think it is very simplistic.  <BR>
There have been some great men's costumers, some great men tailors who have=
 made both men's and women's garments throughout history.<BR>
Presently many of the male costumers are gone due to AIDS.  Evenso I know o=
f a number of men who are costumers, both those who do tailoring and those w=
ho don't, and I know from my contacts with them that they are very busy - bu=
t most of them have been overly generous with information when asked serious=
 questions.  I doubt that many have the time for this list.<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
<FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF"><U>http://www.rlshep.com</U></FONT><BR>
<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
http://www.rlshep.com<BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3020406145_99897_MIME_Part--

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 09:43:17 -0700
Subject: H-COST: gored skirts
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3020406197_103041_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
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I know it is completely out of the period that was being discussed - and for
that reason I did not mention it before - but the discussion seems to have
got more general.

Gored Skirts were very popular in the early 1910s.  You will find patterns
for  a
*7 gore skirt* and another for a *13 gore skirt* in
*THE GREAT WAR: Styles and Patterns of the 1910s*  these are original source
material.  The book is available from Fred Struthers at the website below.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com


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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>gored skirts</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<TT>I know it is completely out of the period that was being discussed - an=
d for<BR>
that reason I did not mention it before - but the discussion seems to have<=
BR>
got more general.<BR>
<BR>
Gored Skirts were very popular in the early 1910s.  You will find patterns<=
BR>
for  a<BR>
*7 gore skirt* and another for a *13 gore skirt* in<BR>
*THE GREAT WAR: Styles and Patterns of the 1910s*  these are original sourc=
e<BR>
material.  The book is available from Fred Struthers at the website below.<=
BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
<FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF"><U>http://www.rlshep.com</U></FONT><BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 12:14:37 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:32:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
In-Reply-To: <3.0.6.32.19990917113029.007b3d10@pop.utulsa.edu>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


Gail wrote:

> >Greenland was pretty far from the hub of the European fashion scene....
> >how accurate is it to copy these gowns for the rest of Europe?

Marc replied:

> I think that's something that's up to debate.  Either we assume that
> they were on the ultimate fringes and so they aren't accurate because
> they weren't on the cutting edge of fashion, or we can assume that they
> tried to keep up with the fashions as best as they could (hence the
> pleated front - v-necked bodice). 

They may have tried to "keep up," but I think we need to recognize the
many factors that would influence the results.  Distance (in language and
culture as well as geography) is key. The colony's contact with the
mainland was sporadic, and examples or even verbal descriptions of the
European styles would have taken some years to make their way to the
colonies. Cutting and fitting methods changed a great deal over the course
of the 14th century, and I would hesitate to assume that the details of
any new techniques would be accurately represented in the distant colonies
concurrently with their use in the central mainland -- if they were
accurately conveyed at all. The traders who brought supplies to the
colonies were probably not experts in tailoring of high-fashion women's
gowns!

We need to also remember the class and economic differences. The people in
Greenland were colonists -- trying to survive off the land in a tough
environment. And remember, ultimately they failed. People in these
circumstances would not have been expending their vital resources in
making fashions in the style of the leisure class.  They certainly would
not have had the luxury to engage in conspicuous consumption, which is a
key element of upper-class 14th-century European fashion. 

Yet I have heard many people make the assumption that the construction
seen in the 10-"gore" dress or other Greenland finds represents the
techniques used in, say, the French or English court. I think this is a
BIG mistake. The type and availability of fabrics, the intended use, the
intended lifespan of the garments, time available for clothing
construction, and many other factors would have varied dramatically from
one milieu to the other. On top of that, although the 10-piece dress does
display some fitting, this construction does not reliably produce the
extreme fitted silhouette of European court dress in the second half of
the 14th century (despite assumptions to the contrary by some authors who,
I can only surmise, do not sew). (If I remember right -- my books are
packed -- the Greenland gown doesn't even have a long center front
opening, so it would have to be wide enough in the torso to fit over the
shoulders. That precludes tight-to-the-body fitting for most female
bodies. Yes, there are a few women who are shaped in such a way as to
manage to achieve a tight fit without lacing or buttons, but they are the
exception, so the construction method clearly can't be the same one used
throughout the European court to achieve the Gothic fitted dress.)

We also need to be wary when reconstructing a construction method based on
an archaeological find. For instance, I wonder if some of the multiple
pieces we find in the 10-whatever dress represent not the original
construction, but years of re-making.  Could this gown have begun as, say,
a four-piece or six-piece dress, and been repaired or remade over the
years, possibly for different wearers? Alteration and repair of older
clothing is common practice in a culture in which fabric is not to be
wasted. If I had heard about fitted fashions and wanted to remake a loose
tunic to a more fitted style, I would probably take vertical seams in some
of the large pieces, in effect creating smaller pieces. If this is so,
then any attempt to reconstruct a cutting pattern from the eccentric
pieces we find today would not accurately represent the original cutting
method used by the Greenlanders.  I need to experiment a little with
fabric before I can state that as a theory with confidence, though.

I think the Greenland gowns are highly valuable for what they are, and we
may be able to extrapolate, with some caution, to mainland Scandinavia, to
the working class, and to the early half of the 14th century. But that's
quite different from making the grand leap to assuming these finds
demonstrate "European fashion" or anything done in Western European court
circles.

So, that's my $.02. I'm quite interested in other people's opinions, as
I'm actually working on a lecture about this right now (hmm, that probably
showed, didn't it?). 

--Robin


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 12:24:54 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:37:53 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Freezing Vinegar (was Onion skins)
References: <007501bf00d2$84773400$2671fea9@gunsafes> <37E23A06.5F8430E3@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Kat & Kent wrote:
> 
> Well, it's not in my book _Will It Freeze?: An A to Z Guide to Foods
> that Freeze_ by Joan Hood so my dh has put a half cup into the freezer
> to see how it does.  We shall let you know the results of our
> experiment.  Wine vinegar is mentioned in one of the entries (how to
> freeze cooked cucumbers).

Well, the vinegar is quite frozen solid.  Now we will allow it to thaw
and see if it's still good (I'm betting on it...sure smells like
vinegar!!).

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 12:45:11 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 10:57:14 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> So, that's my $.02. I'm quite interested in other people's opinions, as
> I'm actually working on a lecture about this right now (hmm, that probably
> showed, didn't it?).

Yes it showed.  In a most interesting and informative way.  Thanks for your
input, quite well thought out.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 12:45:41 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re H-Cost: costuming and haircolour
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 19:42:35 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi y'all,

Carol wrote:
>             So, Henk--when are you going to write and publish your book? 
I
> know those of us on the list who would purchase it are a small initial
> market, but I'm sure word would spread fast in the reenactment
communities,
> too.

Y'all probably know we have our own business and a busy one it is, so
there's not much time for writing. But... as I can't do without, I've begun
a series of articles about my period's clothing in our living history
society's magazine Cronike. These are meant to be included in the costume
handbook for the 1250-1350 period. I do research on small aspects of
costume (linings, cloth breadths and prices, linen cottes, dressing up to
the climate, hats, etc) and because they represent current trends within
the society or because I get asked questions about certain aspects of
clothing. Just last week I talked to Pauline about it and the idea started
taking hold of us of reworking and translating this handbook into an
english costume book, as there is probably a larger market for it in the
anglo speaking world than in the dutch-speaking one. 

You'll have to be patient though. It's a slow process and I'm learning and
researching everyday lately.  

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 12:59:48 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:17:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: men's costume
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> *That's because women just need more clothes (in any
> period)!

Ooooh.... I beg to differ... my significant other has
more costuming that I could dream of having... he just
*has* to have a new outfit for this and a new cloak
for that and he just *can't* be seen in the same
outfit twice in a row when he meets the King!  It's
amusing, actually... I have become the Queen of
accessorizing to change his outfits... ;-)




> many have this weak excuse that they can't sew. 
Actually, there are some people, men or not, who
really just can't sew... they either don't see things
the way we do to be able to put the pieces together,
or they just have no desire to do the work
themselves.. I meet just as many women who feel this
way as men.


> Presently many of the male costumers are gone due to
> AIDS.  Evenso I know of
??? I'm not sure what one has to do with the other...
please enlighten me... 'cuz from where I'm standing,
this falls right into the "only effeminet (sp?) men
sew" category and I don't think that is what was
meant.

My 2 cents,

Sarah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 13:07:46 1999
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

I've just put up 25 yards of white chiffon and 3.25 yards of forest
green chiffon on eBay.  The white is less than $3 per yard, and I do not
have a reserve on either piece -- opening bid is my "reserve."  These
are new fabrics that I bought to use for a couple of orders, only to
have the customers change their minds, so I'm "liquidating" the fabric.
;-)

Thanks!
Jennie Chancey

Here's my eBay link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=chanceys&include=0&since=-1&sort=2

--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 13:08:10 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:21:04 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: movie costume commentatry was: Ever After
In-Reply-To: <10c2bc74.25139df9@aol.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

I need ideas not commentary. Although the commentary under a different
heading would have been better recieved.

I have worked on a set at time or two and one of them was for an amish
type movie. We did not use industrial machines, there was a lot of hand
sewing and a few old singers in the shop. Maybe it was because the shows I
worked on were for TV but we never had any industrial machines in there,
only the normal ones. From this experiance I have come to believe that not
all movie costumes are not made by industrial machines but by a crew of
both machine and hand sewers. I learned how to do lots of creative things
very fast and the seams would last a lot longer than the ones by the
machines in some cases, like for the kids costumes.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Fri, 17 Sep 1999 Cheryldee@aol.com wrote:

> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 09:36:57 EDT
> From: Cheryldee@aol.com
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Ever After
> 
> 
> -Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 9/16/99 10:48:04 PM Mountain Daylight Time, ches@io.com 
> writes:
> 
> << So here I am trying to find the period representations of the
>  various pieces and cannot find anything! Help! >>
>  
> This is where the worlds of the costume designer and the re-enactment folks 
> differ.  My guess is that, although based on research, a lot of the wardrobe 
> in "Ever After" is fantasy.  After all, the premise of the film is a fairy 
> tale.  I can't imagine, for example, that that costume ball number ever 
> existed in real life, although Inigo Jones manifested some theatrical 
> costumes of that nature.  And did you notice how spic and span everything 
> looked?  Hard to manage in the days before dry cleaners.  "Shakespeare in 
> Love", on the other hand was much less "creative" with the period.  But even 
> here, certain liberties have been taken.  When this sort of creativity is 
> exercised without damaging the period feel, I enjoy the look.  But you might 
> find it hard to find the actual garment in real life.  And they're mostly 
> made on industrial sewing machines.  Just a different emphasis.  When a film 
> does call for authenticity, a good costume designer generally becomes a 
> re-enactment specialist right away.  Cheryl Odom, Costume Designer
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:33:16 -0700
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com> wrote:
> ... but Amazon is nice about finding OOP books
>for you... my boyfriend collects OOP books and has had
>great luck with Amazon.

My advice, if you want out of print books, is *don't* use Amazon. Why?
Because Amazon just finds them through
http://www.abebooks.com
then marks them up 150 per cent and charges you to do something you can do
yourself.

Find them on Advanced Book Exchange yourself and save money.

I have ordered from four different booksellers on ABE. I'm in California,
and one was a couple miles from my home, so i just picked the book up at
the shop. But the other three were in Wisconsin, Rhode Island, and England.
I received them all surprisingly quickly, including the one from England -
i guess that particular seller sends large amounts of books to an expiditer
in the US, so the shipping rate was inexpensive.

A satisfied ABE user,
Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 13:19:23 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 11:01:41 -0700
Subject: H-COST: gored skirts
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
CC: fred <fsbks@mcn.org>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I know it is compltely out of the peiod that was being discussed - and for
that reason I did not mention it before - but the discussion seems to have
got more general.

Gored Skirts were very popular in the early 1910s.  You will find patterns
for  a
*7 gore skirt* and another for a *13 gore skirt* in
*THE GREAT WAR: Styles and Patterns of the 1910s*  these are original source
material.  The book is available from Fred Struthers at the website below.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 13:19:25 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:31:47 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: men's costume
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I am sorry but my only reaction to that is that you feel only men who
exhibit feminine qualities get AIDS.     What???  AIDS is a terrible disease
and it can strike anyone.  The fact remains that a lot of male costumers got
it and it has changed the face of the industry.   If you want to make
assumptions about them for contracting the disease then that is something
you have to live with.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: men's costume
>Date: Fri, Sep 17, 1999, 11:17 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
>> *That's because women just need more clothes (in any
>> period)!
>
>Ooooh.... I beg to differ... my significant other has
>more costuming that I could dream of having... he just
>*has* to have a new outfit for this and a new cloak
>for that and he just *can't* be seen in the same
>outfit twice in a row when he meets the King!  It's
>amusing, actually... I have become the Queen of
>accessorizing to change his outfits... ;-)
>
>
>
>
>> many have this weak excuse that they can't sew. 
>Actually, there are some people, men or not, who
>really just can't sew... they either don't see things
>the way we do to be able to put the pieces together,
>or they just have no desire to do the work
>themselves.. I meet just as many women who feel this
>way as men.
>
>
>> Presently many of the male costumers are gone due to
>> AIDS.  Evenso I know of
>??? I'm not sure what one has to do with the other...
>please enlighten me... 'cuz from where I'm standing,
>this falls right into the "only effeminet (sp?) men
>sew" category and I don't think that is what was
>meant.
>
>My 2 cents,
>
>Sarah
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 13:55:36 1999
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Message-ID: <5f10cae0.2513e8b7@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 14:55:51 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: male costumers/OT
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/17/1999 11:29:10 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
rlshep@home.com writes:

<< I am sorry but my only reaction to that is that you feel only men who
 exhibit feminine qualities get AIDS.     What???  AIDS is a terrible disease
 and it can strike anyone.  The fact remains that a lot of male costumers got
 it and it has changed the face of the industry.   If you want to make
 assumptions about them for contracting the disease then that is something
 you have to live with.
 ~!~ R.L.Shep
 http://www.rlshep.com >>

The enormous toll on talented men in the performing arts is something we all 
need to remember.  I've lost so many male  friends to this scourge.  I have 
one dear friend, a costumer, who is currently on the new protocol and doing 
well, but I treat every day as a gift.  

I don't believe that anyone on this list believes that men who costume are 
necessarily effeminate. I think Sarah meant that she didn't want to have 
given exactly that impression, and perhaps stated it without enough clarity.  

Given the fact that clothing was a male dominated industry until this past 
century - and that most of the big fashion houses are still male run, must 
say something.  Hopefully us women can make up for lost time in the new 
millenium!

Take care,

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 14:02:22 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:16:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fabric on eBay
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Oh, I wish I had the money...  but, alas, I do not.
;-)  good luck on your auction!

On another note, I just went on to your web page...
hmmmm... I desperately wish the pattern for that
beautiful coat was available!  I would make my boy buy
it for me if it were in my size... but I haven't been
a size 8 for years!

For any of you who ARE a size 8/10, check out her web
site!  Great jacket to make you drool!

The whole web site it gorgeous, by the way.

Sarah


--- Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
> 
> I've just put up 25 yards of white chiffon and 3.25
> yards of forest
> green chiffon on eBay.  The white is less than $3
> per yard, and I do not
> have a reserve on either piece -- opening bid is my
> "reserve."  These
> are new fabrics that I bought to use for a couple of
> orders, only to
> have the customers change their minds, so I'm
> "liquidating" the fabric.
> ;-)
> 
> Thanks!
> Jennie Chancey
> 
> Here's my eBay link:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&userid=chanceys&include=0&since=-1&sort=2
> 
> --
> Sense and Sensibility
> http://www.sensibility.com
> winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 14:09:57 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:24:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair color
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I used this once... just a fair warning... I have
blonde hair naturally (though it never stays blonde
for more than a day... always red)... this dye took to
my hair VERY strongly... so be careful.

So, to get this to a historical nature... in what
periods in history did women dye their hair and in
which was this fad not commonly practised?  What did
they use to dye their hair?  I seem to remember
something from my past about hearing that Israelite
women around 1 A.D. were considered "harlots" if they
dyed their hair... is this true? (I know my mom still
thinks it is "daring and asking for it" (whatever "it"
is))

Sarah



> >
> >I've been considering the Clairol Natural Instincts
> Black Cherry colorant,
> >ever since someone told me it turned her grey hair
> bright purple.  Now THAT
> >sounds like fun!
> >

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 14:15:53 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:31:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: male costumers/OT
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Yep, and I know that is how I came across after I
re-read it... sorry, I don't put down my feelings and
thoughts very well... in fact, my best friend in the
whole world, captain of the football team and
ex-boyfriend died of aids two years ago... my point
was that because I don't know of any particular
scourge of men who costume that got AIDS, I found this
comment itself confused me because it sounded to ME
that what was being said is that "only effeminent men
sew and only effeminent men get AIDS", which from what
I have read previously from you is not an opinion you
would hold... thus I was looking for more info as to
what was really happening... sorry it didn't come
across that way! *sigh*  I hate e-mail... I can
lecture a room full of people and they will understand
everything I said, but if I have to write it down I
mess it all up...

Sarah



> << I am sorry but my only reaction to that is that
> you feel only men who
>  exhibit feminine qualities get AIDS.     What??? 
> AIDS is a terrible disease
>  and it can strike anyone.  The fact remains that a
> lot of male costumers got
>  it and it has changed the face of the industry.  
> If you want to make
>  assumptions about them for contracting the disease
> then that is something
>  you have to live with.
>  ~!~ R.L.Shep
>  http://www.rlshep.com >>
> 
> The enormous toll on talented men in the performing
> arts is something we all 
> need to remember.  I've lost so many male  friends
> to this scourge.  I have 
> one dear friend, a costumer, who is currently on the
> new protocol and doing 
> well, but I treat every day as a gift.  
> 
> I don't believe that anyone on this list believes
> that men who costume are 
> necessarily effeminate. I think Sarah meant that she
> didn't want to have 
> given exactly that impression, and perhaps stated it
> without enough clarity.  
> 
> Given the fact that clothing was a male dominated
> industry until this past 
> century - and that most of the big fashion houses
> are still male run, must 
> say something.  Hopefully us women can make up for
> lost time in the new 
> millenium!
> 
> Take care,
> 
> angela
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Costumes & Custom Clothing
> Theatrical Costume Design
> "If we shadows have offended, think but this,
>  and all is mended,
> That you have but slumbered here,
>  while these visions did appear."
> A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
> QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
> FULL URL:
> http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
> 
> 
>
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>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.990917114802.19263A-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 15:54:55 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>


> Yet I have heard many people make the assumption that the construction
> seen in the 10-"gore" dress or other Greenland finds represents the
> techniques used in, say, the French or English court. I think this is a
> BIG mistake.

So, is there any documentation for the French or English court version of
this dress?  I haven't been able to make the 10 gore dress that is in issue
#116 of TI look good on my figure and wondered if there are other ways of
achieving this dress?
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 14:37:57 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 15:51:51 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: help with husband
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Makyn asked what period clothes she should make for a husband who says he 
doesn't care.

My suggestion? Whatever period YOU like and think he would look best in, AND 
that won't make him too uncomfortable. Then, every time you tell him how 
great he looks he will be happy and want more clothes.

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 14:57:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:10:45 -0700
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From: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>
Subject: H-COST: Gores/godets/goodbye
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-Poster: Leslie Helms <leslie@canfield.com>

When I took draping class, the instructor defined "gore" as a panel running
the full length of the piece.  A "godet" was an inset to increase flare
(and PLEASE, it's "flare" not "flair") whether it was inserted into a slit
in the fabric or inserted along part of a seam's length.  Generally "gores"
were considered to be fairly uniform, like skirt gores; the side front
piece of a princess dress was a side front piece, not a gore, although
someone might describe the resulting dress as having a "six-gore skirt"
because it provided an accurate description of the bias structure in that
portion of the garment.

I'm going to have to take a break from the list for the first time in a
LONG time!  I'm trying to finish my wedding dress... well, actually, I'm
trying to get a proper start on the blasted thing... and the wedding is
three weeks off and closing rapidly.  You are all such marvellous company
and such a tempting distraction that I must shut off the valve for a bit
and focus on this project.  I'll be back after the holocaust.

Best wishes to everyone.  Have fun.  

Leslie

(You can have a "flair" for creative expression, but widening your skirts
creates "flare."  They are entirely different words.)  
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair color
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 3:24 PM
> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>.
>
> So, to get this to a historical nature... in what
> periods in history did women dye their hair and in
> which was this fad not commonly practised?  What did
> they use to dye their hair?  I seem to remember
> something from my past about hearing that Israelite
> women around 1 A.D. were considered "harlots" if they
> dyed their hair... is this true? (I know my mom still
> thinks it is "daring and asking for it" (whatever "it"
> is))
>

I *think* there's historical support for the use of henna.  I know I read
this somewhere in this vast expanse of books I own,  not that I can find the
documentation now of course......

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 15:04:34 1999
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To: "Historic Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:18:17 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

Hi, 
Okay I know that in a lot (most) cases costumes in 
historic set films are not accurate. I would assume 
in cases like "Ever After" they were shooting more 
to "awe" the audience than to please the few who 
would know the difference between an exact replica dress and one they had taken much liberty with. 
anyway, Here is the question I pose to you all..

In movies made by A&E/BBC, would you in your costuming
expertise, say the costumes were more accurate? 

I have seen most of the period films they produce
(Emma, Jane Eyre, Tess of the d'Urbervilles, The 
Buccaneers, Moll Flanders, ETC.) and most of them 
seem fairly true to form, at least to my non-
professional eye. I read a lot and I "look" a lot; 
from paintings, vintage photos, exhibits and the 
like (things depicting  period clothing as it was) 
I have found that the majority of the clothing 
represented in this company's films to be pretty
much exact.  Like I said I'm not totally positive, 
seeing as how I'm at best a gross amateur. I was 
however interested in the views of the people on 
this list seeing as how most of you seem to be 
either professionals or have been doing this for a 
very long time and know much about it. I ask specifically about the A&E/BBC films because they 
seem to be the most accurate in costuming that I 
have noticed (like I could be wrong on this one, 
lol) but also their sets and props seem to be VERY 
precise. My father is a collector of antique
tableware and has commented at the accuracy of the
dishes etc. in some of these films and I am a 
student of Historic restoration/Architecture history,
and they are very exact when recreating interiors 
of buildings, in many class ranges I've noticed. 
anyway sorry this post was so long I expected it 
to be short, but I tend to babble I guess.


Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure


"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 15:09:21 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 15:24:35 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Kat & Kent wrote:
> 
> Well, the vinegar is quite frozen solid.  Now we will allow it to thaw
> and see if it's still good (I'm betting on it...sure smells like
> vinegar!!).

Thawed fine...looks like vinegar, smells like vinegar, tastes like
vinegar...must be vinegar...if anything it might be a tad stronger.

Kat
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

I am not familliar with the later period styles you mentioned a la Jane 
Austin, but I am familliar with other series from BBC.  Elizabeth R happens 
to be one of the best done (costuming wise) Elizabethan movies of all time 
IMHO.  That stands to reason as both Jean Hunniset and Janet Arnold had a 
hand in the designing of the clothing.  The Six WIves of HVIII was also very 
nicely done, not quite as accurate as Eliz. R but very well researched.  
Though these two are rather old in the way of the entertainment world, I 
believe it sets a precidence for the fact that BBC at least will go the extra 
mile and do the serious research required for the clothing of the time.

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 15:40:27 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Interesting things to do with vinegar (was freezing and onion skins)
Message-ID: <19990917.123350.4791.0.cley@juno.com>
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Slightly off topic:

On the subject of vinegar....

My mother of beloved memory used to use white vinegar mixed with warm
water to clean ivory. It worked very well too, even on very old pieces.
The problem is I can't remember the proportions. Has anyone any ideas on
this?


					Arlys

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 15:51:56 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 15:51:31 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: AIDS and costumers
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Perhaps the confusion is that (I am assuming, here) when we talk about 
"costumers" on this list, we are not all referring to professional costumers, 
but anyone with an interest in costume. So some people might be surprised to 
think of AIDS having anything to do with, say, their neighbor Bob who makes 
uniforms for his Civil War reenacting regiment. (I know, I know, anyone can 
be gay or simply irresponsible, but I hope my point comes through.)

I am sad to hear that AIDs took many professional costumers. I never thought 
about it before. But I remember about 10 years ago, when the store design and 
visual merchandising (professional term for store decorator) industry, which 
I was professionally affiliated with at the time, lost so many of its great 
names. I guess many creative businesses had the same loss.

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 16:08:08 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:57:27 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

>> Let's see if I can clarify the problem (or just make it muddier).  
>> When using "AD" or "CE" the starting point is "0". 

Cynthia replied:

> Er, 1, actually.  There was no year zero.  Ordinal numbering system.
> Hence the Millenium starting in 2001.
>
> I agree that 1950 is hardly intuitive for "before present."  Which makes
> *now* "-49BP" which is rather amusing.

No, that would make it 49 PP, "past present", which is even more amusing. :-D

Hey, how did all this mud get in the water!?!

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 16:19:21 1999
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Subject: H-COST: crochet/tatting
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-Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com

Next question (OK, so I missed de-lurkers day cuz of work, I'm making up for 
it now ;-)

When is crocheting and tatting period? These are both arts that I am somewhat 
conversant in and would like to know when I can start using them in my 
costumes!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
So many books, so little time

Patience is not passive; on the contrary, it is active; it is concentrated 
strength. 
        - Edward G. Bulwer-Lytton

schmitt100@aol.com
**********************
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Henk's book
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Henk, I'm begging you. Please do it! I would buy it! I know dozens of people 
who would buy it!

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 16:45:24 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 16:55:13 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Marc Carlson wrote:

> Um, no.  In either AD or CE there is no year "0".  That's why 2001 is the
> beginning
> of the next Millenium.

DOH!  I knew that.

> And you are right, the use of 1950 as a starting date is not intuitive to
> someone
> who isn't trained to use it.  That doesn't make it bad or wrong.  It's a
> system that
> in its own context (that of archaeology) makes perfect sense.  For that
> matter,
> 1 BCE as a date that's 2000 years before Right Now, or 1500 BP isn't
> particularly
> intuitive either.  And certainly not, if the year Right Now happens to be
> for you:
> 5760 AM, 1420 AH, Ji-Mau (16th year in the 78th cycle), 2,451,403.5 JD,
> 51,403 MJD,
> or for that matter 2752 AUD or 13 Acactl.

Time keeping, the perception of time, and calendar systems are interest areas for
my husband so I'm well aware that "today" is vastly different depending on where
you are.  And, no, I don't believe that one system is right or wrong.

It appeared that people were speaking past each other in an attempt at
understanding and I was hoping to clarify a few points.  Thanks for the
explanation.

--Charlene

--
Eagles may soar, but weasels aren't sucked into jet engines.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 16:46:25 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 16:56:28 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Sarah Toney wrote:

> Women's Costume in French texts of the Eleventh and
> Twelfth centuries by Eunice Rathbone Goddard

Have you actually found a copy of this?  I've been looking for one for
quite some time with no luck.

--Charlene

--
Eagles may soar, but weasels aren't sucked into jet engines.


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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


Thanks for the book info. I was trying the wrong Amazon;
Not just the Israelites;  We can now get raw henna and various henna based
items , due to strong trade links withe India; When It first came out  here
(early 70s) it was still seen as a sign of the harlot; but this died out as
it became very popular.  It is stiill often used by those of a certain age
 if they can  remember seeing  Jimi Hendrix, they will know what I mean;)
Another favourite supposedly from history is a mixture of Chamomile and
Rosemary collected fresh and made into little bags; it is purported to
lighten the hair: the degree dependant on the mix. I am not sure which
period it derives from; most probably very ancient.
Women who worked in the Cornish tin mines during the 18 & 19 centuries used
to smother their hair with the red ochre that was washed out of ore bearing
lodes as mud. It left the hair a crimson red , with constant use. I am not
sure that it was originally intended as a colourant but more of an antidote
to small creatures as well as keeping long hair tidy in places where a hat
could not be worn, in cramped and hot crawlways. The ochre mud also
contained large amounts of arsenical compounds.
(The average cornish "bal-maiden" would have been unfit for human
consumption.)
I dont recall any other instances but I am sure that it is something that is
shared by many cultures through the ages
Dave



>
> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
 > So, to get this to a historical nature... in what
> periods in history did women dye their hair and in
> which was this fad not commonly practised?  What did
> they use to dye their hair?  I seem to remember
> something from my past about hearing that Israelite
> women around 1 A.D. were considered "harlots" if they
> dyed their hair... is this true? (I know my mom still
> thinks it is "daring and asking for it" (whatever "it"
> is))
>
> Sarah


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-Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com

I know this sort of question has been asked before, but...
if I were to be starting a costuming library, what books would be "must 
haves"? My areas of interest at this moment are Elizabethan, early Crusades 
in Jerusalem, and Edwardian (probably enough for now!) So, what would you 
suggest? I'm compiling a wish list for the start of Christmas shoppers 
everywhere!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
So many books, so little time (and adding to them :-)

Patience is not passive; on the contrary, it is active; it is concentrated 
strength. 
        - Edward G. Bulwer-Lytton

schmitt100@aol.com
**********************
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 17:28:52 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Well, my two pence...

>Women's Costume in French texts of the Eleventh and
>Twelfth centuries by Eunice Rathbone Goddard


Text only.  I found it most interesting as a starting point for research in
fiber related information, too.

>Handbook of Medieval costume by C. Willett Cunnington

Good general information.  Few (if any) primary source pictures; I believe
the line drawings are renderings of existing
pictures/portraits/scuptures/etc.  Still useful.
>


>Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for
>Women's Dress, Medieval - 1500 by Jean Hunnisett
>

Useful for pattern making, but the methods of construction are usually
modern techniques.  You might find it useful, if you plan on only using
modern sewing techniques.


>
>20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and
>Personal Adornment by Francois Leon Louis Boucher

A must for an overview of fashions.  I think the text does touch upon the
issues of fashions that are specific for countries as well.

>
>After A Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore and Wear
>Vintage Styles by Frances Grimble

LOL!  Since Fran is a list member...Fran...I suppose you could let her know
about your book.. *g*

Gia/Giacinta


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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Schmitt100@aol.com wrote:

> -Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com
>
> I know this sort of question has been asked before, but...
> if I were to be starting a costuming library, what books would be "must
> haves"? My areas of interest at this moment are Elizabethan, early Crusades
> in Jerusalem, and Edwardian (probably enough for now!) So, what would you
> suggest? I'm compiling a wish list for the start of Christmas shoppers
> everywhere!
>
> *

For Edwardian women's patterns, you could try our titles _The Voice of Fashion_
and _The Edwardian Modiste_ (details on
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm).

Allan Terry



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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Let's see...I can help out on the Elizabethan.


Patterns of Fashion:  the Cut and Construction of Men and Women's Clothing
1560-1600 by Janet Arnold is positively essential to serious Elizabethan
clothing.

other good Elizabethan books include:

Visual History of 16th Century Costume, by Jane Ashelford
(composed entirely of pictures w/ text of 16th century portraits, brasses
& sketches)

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, by Janet Arnold
(Expensive, but considered the bible of Elizabethan Costume)

Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500-1800, by Jean Hunnisett
(looks at it from a theatrical costume perspective, but wonderful pattern
layouts & construction info for Elizabethan bodices & clothing)

Tudor Costume, by Herbert Norris
(Not the most accurate of researchers...but has a great number of pictures
and a very wide-ranging eye, covering peasants, carriages, shoes, jewelry
& headwear as well as traditional 16th c. Costume.  Useful in conjunction 
with more reliable references)

Tailor's Pattern Book, by Juan de' Alcega
(It's back in print!  A wonderful facsimile of a tailor's pattern & layout
manual from 1589.  Invaluable when it comes to figuring out how things
were cut.)

Vecellio's Renaissance Costume 
(small, cheap book, with all of the costume woodcuts of Vecellio, a 16th
century guy with an eye for costume.  Good for regional dress detail.)

Costume in the Drama of Shakespeare & His Contemporaries
(out of print & hard to find, but once I read it I couldn't believe I'd
managed without it.  Info on fabric types & costume terms & colors that I
haven't found anywhere else.)

There's really no substitute for looking at the original pictures.
Books on any of the below artists are good to look at:

Hans Holbein (Tudor, English)
Hans Eworth (mid 16th Century)
Agnolo Bronzino (Earlier 16th c., Italian
Antonias Mor (Spanish, later 16th C)
Lucas Cranach (German, earlier 16th c)
Alonzo Coello (Spanish, later 16th c)
Francois Clouet (French, mid 16th c)
Master of the Countess of Warwick (English, mid 16th c)


the following are very hard to find and expensive, but worth their weight
in gold:

The Anatomy of Abuses, by Phillip Stubbes (ed. J Furnival, 1873)
(This Elizabethan treatise contains period descriptions of costume which
are quoted extensively in almost all of the works listed above. )

The Milanese Tailor's Handbook, pub. Querini-Stampalia Library, in Venice
(A facsimile of an amazing book containing color pictures of clothing and
pattern layouts for them, equestrian trappings / patterns, beds &
pavilions & patterns, etc.)


Whew!  I won't list the articles, or else I'll never get home.  ;)

Drea


On Fri, 17 Sep 1999 Schmitt100@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com
> 
> I know this sort of question has been asked before, but...
> if I were to be starting a costuming library, what books would be "must 
> haves"? My areas of interest at this moment are Elizabethan, early Crusades 
> in Jerusalem, and Edwardian (probably enough for now!) So, what would you 
> suggest? I'm compiling a wish list for the start of Christmas shoppers 
> everywhere!
> 
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> So many books, so little time (and adding to them :-)
> 
> Patience is not passive; on the contrary, it is active; it is concentrated 
> strength. 
>         - Edward G. Bulwer-Lytton
> 
> schmitt100@aol.com
> **********************
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

>
> >After A Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore and Wear
> >Vintage Styles by Frances Grimble
>
> LOL!  Since Fran is a list member...Fran...I suppose you could let her know
> about your book.. *g*

I can't pretend to an objective view though.

Fran

>
>
> Gia/Giacinta
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<Elizabethan movies of all time
IMHO.  That stands to reason as both Jean Hunniset and Janet Arnold had a
hand in the designing of the clothing.  >>

Janet did not design clothing for Elizabeth R, and she was always very
careful to point that out to people. She helped make the ruffs, which was
pretty much a lost art at the time of the filming.

<<for the fact that BBC at least will go the extra
mile and do the serious research required for the clothing of the time.>>

Unfortunately, it is a long time ago that ER and Six Wives were made, and
times have changed considerably. Not the least in that BBC disbanded its
costume department several years ago.


De borah


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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> When is crocheting and tatting period? These are both arts that I am somewhat 
> conversant in and would like to know when I can start using them in my 
> costumes!

So what do you mean by "period." Both are very common in the 19th 
Century. (Even my grandfather tatted.) As far as further back, 
there's a lot of controversy.

Crochet seems to have come into being during the 18th Century and was 
in fairly common use by the end of that Century. Tatting may have 
started a little earlier but again did not come into prominence in 
the form we recognize until about the same time. Neither were called 
by those names when they began, which is part of the problem.

Part of the controversy is the tools used. Hooks like those for 
crochet have been around for a lot longer than the methods have. They 
were used for joinings in weavings and lace. Things that look very 
much like tatting shuttles were also used for weaving.

Some people use the existance of the tools as evidence bringing the 
styles back to the 16th Century or even earlier. However, I don't 
believe they were done any earlier than mid17th Century at best.

Certainly the laces produced with tatting and crochet don't look like 
either needle lace or bobbin lace during pre1650 times. There were 
macrame laces which are also knotted laces, but again, the pieces 
produced with crochet and tatting don't look like these earlier 
macrame pieces. Crocheting can be done in a way which makes it look 
like naalbinding and knitting, which were much earlier styles.

A lot of groups will accept tatting and crochet lace styles for 
things like Arachne's Web, even if they aren't pre1650. They just 
don't pass muster in costume contests and the like.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> This was my text book when I was in college [1975-79] and the prose 
> is...er...dull...to say the least. My only other complaint is if you open up 
> this tome in the middle, you will find you're only to about 1550! It has 
> aprox. 200 pages before you even get to the 12th century and yet covers the 
> entire 20th century...with it's fast changing fashions...in about 10 pages! 
> What's up wi'that?! Too many pages of stone age clothes!

The newer versions have more 20th Century. However, it's strong point 
is in the pre20th Century pages. Dull is probably right, but what 
costumer really reads all the drivel they print in the text part. 
They are merely interpreting what they see in the pictures (which 
might not be a valid interpretation.)

If you want books with lots on more recent times, books with names 
like "100 years of fashion" than Boucher's "20,000 years of Fashion" 
make much more sense!

 
Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909171755.TAA08568@worldonline.nl>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re H-Cost: costuming and haircolour
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 00:28:54 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Henk,
If you want to create a larger advance market in the UK; I would suggest an
article for Military Illustrated may be a worthwhile "teaser"
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

>
> -Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
 > Y'all probably know we have our own business and a busy one it is, so
> there's not much time for writing. But... as I can't do without, I've
begun
> a series of articles about my period's clothing in our living history
> society's magazine Cronike. These are meant to be included in the costume
> handbook for the 1250-1350 period. I do research on small aspects of
> costume (linings, cloth breadths and prices, linen cottes, dressing up to
> the climate, hats, etc) and because they represent current trends within
> the society or because I get asked questions about certain aspects of
> clothing. Just last week I talked to Pauline about it and the idea started
> taking hold of us of reworking and translating this handbook into an
> english costume book, as there is probably a larger market for it in the
> anglo speaking world than in the dutch-speaking one.
>
> You'll have to be patient though. It's a slow process and I'm learning and
> researching everyday lately.
>
> Henk
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: AIDS and costumers
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/17/1999 5:09:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<< But I remember about 10 years ago, when the store design and 
 visual merchandising (professional term for store decorator) industry, which 
 I was professionally affiliated with at the time, lost so many of its great 
 names. >>

All the arts have.
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/17/1999 7:29:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
kat@grendal.rain.com writes:

<< Dull is probably right, but what 
 costumer really reads all the drivel they print in the text part.  >>

I know what you mean. But I suggest everyone read Janet Arnold's texts....not 
just the descriptions of the patterns she's taken but the front and back of 
the books as well. Great stuff!
So too for Norah Waugh's works.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 19:34:46 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990917192452.26437.rocketmail@web801.mail.yahoo.com> <006401bf0159$57273e50$69065cc3@herimats>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair color
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 20:45:10 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

According to my notes from my costume history class... Henna was used to dye
the wigs for the Egyptians.

Henna can be purchased at local health food stores.  I have to admit I tired
it once, and I will NEVER do it again.  I am allergeric to the ammonia in
most permanent dyes.  Someone suggested that I try henna.  My husband dyes
my hair because I have three feet of it.  He also washes it for me.  :)  We
made the mixture according to the directions on the box.  I really do not
suggest anyone try this product...  The mixture is like a mud and is VERY
heavy (weight wise).  We kept it on my hair for the recommended time, which
seemed for ever.  My husband has washed and dyed my hair for the past ten
years.  He said if I ever try using this henna again, he will leave me (he
was pretty mad).  It is difficult to apply and very difficult to remove this
mud like substance from your hair.  The henna really did a poor job of
dying.  I was very dissatisified.

I have now found a dye that is without ammonia and am very satisifed!

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From: "Craig B. Brown" <cbrown@sisnet.ssku.k12.ca.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <v01520d02b406fe148d76@[205.217.218.106]> <37E1CD5C.90C06D3B@flash.net> <37E2265C.3B545775@thibault.org> <37E248C3.4FC02E8D@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Canadian Iceman update
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 18:04:34 -0700
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-Poster: "Craig B. Brown" <cbrown@sisnet.ssku.k12.ca.us>

Hello all...
    The "timely" discussion has been fascinating.  Dates (even months within
years) can be so important
when costuming.  Does everyone know that "millennium" is spelled with 2
"n's"?  I'm really not being
uppity or anything - our advertising flyer for the play our theater group is
doing in December ALMOST
went out with only one "n" and someone was kind enough to point it out to
me...

    Thanks.  Cindy





----- Original Message -----
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 6:57 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Canadian Iceman update


>
> -Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
> Greetings,
>
> >> Let's see if I can clarify the problem (or just make it muddier).
> >> When using "AD" or "CE" the starting point is "0".
>
> Cynthia replied:
>
> > Er, 1, actually.  There was no year zero.  Ordinal numbering system.
> > Hence the Millenium starting in 2001.
> >
> > I agree that 1950 is hardly intuitive for "before present."  Which makes
> > *now* "-49BP" which is rather amusing.
>
> No, that would make it 49 PP, "past present", which is even more amusing.
:-D
>
> Hey, how did all this mud get in the water!?!
>
> Dietmar
>
>
> "Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
>  over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 20:24:14 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> Henna can be purchased at local health food stores.  I have to admit I
> tired it once, and I will NEVER do it again.  I am allergeric to the
> ammonia in most permanent dyes.  Someone suggested that I try henna. 
> My husband dyes my hair because I have three feet of it.  He also
> washes it for me.  :)  We made the mixture according to the directions
> on the box.  I really do not suggest anyone try this product...  The
> mixture is like a mud and is VERY heavy (weight wise).  We kept it on
> my hair for the recommended time, which seemed for ever.  My husband
> has washed and dyed my hair for the past ten years.  He said if I ever
> try using this henna again, he will leave me (he was pretty mad).  It
> is difficult to apply and very difficult to remove this mud like
> substance from your hair.  The henna really did a poor job of
> dying.  I was very dissatisified.

My hair is only 1/3rd down my back so my experience was different.  Yes,
it *is* like mud...something I appreciated since it meant that I could
see what I had or had not covered.  I used the Egyptian Henna brand (in
a motif container).  I have used it a number of times over the years and
found that the biggest key to removing the henna is to use a sprayer (if
at all possible) and to use lots and lots of hot water (since I take
very hot showers this wasn't a hardship for me.  First I would get out
as much as I could at the sink and then I would wash my hair.  I liked
the shade I got from it but have found another commercial product which
gives me a shade closer to my younger shade of red.  You can also make
it up as a rinse which should just add red highlights (depending on
one's own hair of course!!).

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 20:31:26 1999
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From: lilinah@grin.net
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 18:53:57 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair color
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>Henna can be purchased at local health food stores.

Henna can also be purchased at drug stores, as well as beauty supply stores.

<snip>
>I really do not
>suggest anyone try this product...  The mixture is like a mud and is VERY
>heavy (weight wise).  We kept it on my hair for the recommended time, which
>seemed for ever.  My husband has washed and dyed my hair for the past ten
>years.  He said if I ever try using this henna again, he will leave me (he
>was pretty mad).  It is difficult to apply and very difficult to remove this
>mud like substance from your hair.  The henna really did a poor job of
>dying.  I was very dissatisified.

My hair isn't as long, only a bit below the, errr, "crack in my a**", about
2 feet, i'm guessing. I have used henna off and on since 1973. I don't
think it's that bad. Of course, we each have our own personal experiences.

Henna is powdered leaves (and stems?) which looks medium green powder. You
mix it with hot water, and it starts to turn red-brown. Apply while still
warm. Yes, it is a lot like a mud pack on your hair. I think it's kind of
fun, but it is messy. I put a wrapping of toilet paper around my hairline
from behind one ear to the other, across my forehead, to catch some of the
drips. Then i put on a plastic "shower cap" over my henna packed hair
(lightweight disposables from the beauty supply store made for hair dying).
And finally i wrap my head with a towel to hold in the warmth.

Because my hair is dark brown, i sometimes sleep with it on - at the least
i leave it on for a couple hours so i can get maximum color. I am fond of
the smell and it makes my hair a nice warm dark reddish tone. It doesn't
bleach hair, so if one's hair is dark, it will not lighten it. I have a few
white hairs now and these become a rich red. It also makes my hair fluffier
and fuller.

It doesn't burn the scalp the way many commercial dyes do, but one has to
have patience with it - it's just an herb and not as quick acting as
chemicals. It also takes a while to wash out. If one is extremely
fastidious, one may find the herbal matter coming out of one's hair a bit
disconcerting. I always do this in the shower. Trying to do it in a sink or
the bath would be problematic.

 My daughter and i do each other's hair a couple times a year. We've
henna'ed each other several times. We also use Clairol Natural Instincts,
as i mentioned in another post. Every once in a while Manic Panic or Punky
Colors or other similar products, but we aren't really satisfied with these
last, as one pretty much has to bleach one's hair before using to get good
color, and since we both have long dark hair, bleaching is not really a
good idea (we'd end up with heads of hay :-)

So, i'm another satisfied henna user.

Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 22:02:57 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Freezing Vinegar (was Onion skins)
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 20:25:55 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>
>Michelle wrote:
>>
>>  In order for the dye to take, you  have to add vinegar.  I would be
>> worried that the vinegar wouldn't freeze well.  It is cheap enough to
>> make, I wouldn't spend the money paying the electric bill to keep it
>> frozen.
>
>Well, it's not in my book _Will It Freeze?: An A to Z Guide to Foods
>that Freeze_ by Joan Hood so my dh has put a half cup into the freezer
>to see how it does.  We shall let you know the results of our
>experiment.  Wine vinegar is mentioned in one of the entries (how to
>freeze cooked cucumbers).
>
>Kat
Since alcohol and vinegar are closely related, my guess is that it wouldn't
freeze.  Let us know your results though!
  Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 22:25:35 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 20:34:31 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: BP (was H-COST: Canadian Iceman update - OT)
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>Marc Carlson wrote:
>
>> Um, no.  In either AD or CE there is no year "0".  That's why 2001 is the
>> beginning
>> of the next Millenium.

Um, no its not.  Jan1, 2000 is the beginning of the new millenium, but this
is way too off topic for this list...  Anyone curious needs to review some
graphs and mathmatics...

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 22:26:36 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 20:22:52 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentatry was: Ever After
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>> << So here I am trying to find the period representations of the
>>  various pieces and cannot find anything! Help! >>

The bulk of the costumes in "Ever After" were based on very early 16th c
Italians, and a few of the women's gowns were fairly decent renditions of
German styles.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 22:46:13 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 21:09:08 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


Can anyone give me a link for this "Greenland" gown? Excuse me if I missed
it earlier.
  Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 22:50:03 1999
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From: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

Just to add to the person who mentioned ordering it from Amazon, Barnes and
Noble on-line is also taking orders, suggesting they will be getting it in
around October 1 (don't know how accurate this is).  Cost is $35.00 plus shipping.

Lauri

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 17 22:52:29 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair color
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 21:15:36 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>----- Original Message -----
>Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 3:24 PM
>> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>.
>>
>> So, to get this to a historical nature... in what
>> periods in history did women dye their hair and in
>> which was this fad not commonly practised?  What did
>> they use to dye their hair>>
>
Vince wrote:
>I *think* there's historical support for the use of henna.  I know I read
>this somewhere in this vast expanse of books I own,  not that I can find
the
>documentation now of course......

I agree on this.  Henna  for red and Walnut for brown.
 Michelle


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Interesting things to do with vinegar (was freezing and onion skins)
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 21:18:29 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Look in a natural cleaning book for window cleaning recipes. I'll research
it here if you don't have any books. I have quite a few. Let me know.
 Michelle

>-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
>
>Slightly off topic:
>
>On the subject of vinegar....
>
>My mother of beloved memory used to use white vinegar mixed with warm
>water to clean ivory. It worked very well too, even on very old pieces.
>The problem is I can't remember the proportions. Has anyone any ideas on
>this?
>
>
> Arlys
>
>___________________________________________________________________
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair color
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 21:28:50 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>




>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
We
>made the mixture according to the directions on the box.  I really do not
>suggest anyone try this product...  The mixture is like a mud and is VERY
>heavy (weight wise).  We kept it on my hair for the recommended time, which
>seemed for ever.
 The henna really did a poor job of dying.  I was very dissatisified.
>Later... Penny

  There is more than one way to use henna.  If you want dramatic results,
you have to make mud.  A much easier way  to use it is to put it into your
conditioner. Every time you use the conditioner your hair will be treated a
little bit more, gradually coloring your hair. Henna only works if your hair
is pale enough in color to take the red.
Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: veggie dyes
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 22:04:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I haven't forgotten about all of you that asked for the recipes.  I got =
too tired last night to look for them.
I have two different versions. I will give you both combined. Have fun!

Onion skins:
  1 large 12 by13 produce bag full of dried skins
  4 inch squares of nylon stockings, one for each egg
  string or rubber bands
  vinegar (one tablespoon to 2 quarts, or 2 teaspoons to each egg. =
Experiment.)

   This makes a golden rich brown.
Simmer onion skins with enough water to cover them. 2 quarts  water for =
20 minutes is a good starting point. The longer you simmer, the darker =
the dye. I simmer until they are transparent, then take them out and put =
fresh ones in to get the dye as dark as I can.  Add about 1 tablespoon =
of vinegar.=20
  To put impressions on the eggs, put leaves on the surface (heavy paper =
works too) and wrap carefully with the cut piece of nylon stocking. Tie =
the stocking closed over the egg with rubber bands or string. The dye =
will color around the leaf, leaving the covered part white. Important: =
When choosing leaves from your garden, don't pick poison ones. I use =
Rose, Strawberry, Fennel, Italian Parsley,etc. Make sure they are =
edible.
  At this point you have options.
       1-put raw eggs into the dye and simmer them without removing the =
onion skins. This makes a speckled effect. The eggs cook as they dye.
       2-strain the mixture (or scoop out the skins). Simmer the eggs, =
getting a uniform color and cook them at the same time.=20
       3-strain the mixture (or scoop out the skins).  dunk the  cooked =
eggs in the mixture to color them as you would regular easter egg dye. =
You can also refrigerate the mixture and leave cooked eggs in it for a =
day. (if you refrigerate the mixture, it is only good for a few days. It =
will mold.)
   The recipe also calls for vegetable oil. It says to put a light coat =
on the egg after it is colored. I have never done this and it worked =
fine. This is to make it shine.

To get yellow use carrot tops. This below is how the recipe reads but, =
generally follow recipe above.

  Simmer 4 bunches of carrot tops in 2 quarts of water for 40 minutes. =
Strain. Add 1 tablespoon vinegar, lower eggs and simmer for 20 minutes. =
Remove eggs and cool but do not unwrap.  Cool the dye solution and =
return the wrapped eggs to the solution for 4 hours or longer.

Dark brown (chocolate), use coffee right out of the pot.
Tan, use tea.
Pale green, spinach leaves.
Pale yellow, dandelion flowers.
Pink, cherries or beets.
Bluish purple, red cabbage or blueberries.
  For any of the above colors, loosely follow onion skin recipe.=20

Michelle
  =20
                                           =20

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I haven't forgotten about all of you =
that asked=20
for the recipes.&nbsp; I got too tired last night to look for =
them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have two different versions. I =
will give you=20
both combined. Have fun!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Onion skins:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp; 1 large =
12 by13=20
produce bag full of dried skins</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp; 4 inch squares of nylon stockings, one for =
each=20
egg</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp; string or rubber bands</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp; vinegar (one tablespoon to 2 quarts, or 2 =
teaspoons to=20
each egg. Experiment.)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; This makes a golden =
rich=20
brown.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Simmer onion skins with enough water =
to cover=20
them. 2 quarts&nbsp; water for 20 minutes is a good starting point. The =
longer=20
you simmer, the darker the dye. I simmer until they are transparent, =
then take=20
them out and put fresh ones in to get the dye as dark as I can.&nbsp; =
Add about=20
1 tablespoon of vinegar. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp; To put =
impressions on=20
the eggs, put leaves on the surface (heavy paper works too) and wrap =
carefully=20
with the cut piece of nylon stocking. Tie the stocking closed over the =
egg with=20
rubber bands or string. The dye will color around the leaf, leaving the =
covered=20
part white. Important: When choosing leaves from your garden, don't pick =
poison=20
ones. I use Rose, Strawberry, Fennel, Italian Parsley,etc. Make sure =
they are=20
edible.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; At this point you have=20
options.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
1-put raw=20
eggs into the dye and simmer them without removing the onion skins. This =
makes a=20
speckled effect. The eggs cook as they dye.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 2-strain the mixture (or =
scoop out=20
the skins). Simmer the eggs, getting a uniform color and cook them at =
the same=20
time. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 3-strain the =
mixture (or=20
scoop out the skins).&nbsp; dunk the&nbsp; cooked eggs in the mixture to =
color=20
them as you would regular easter egg dye. You can also refrigerate the =
mixture=20
and leave cooked eggs in it for a day. (if you refrigerate the mixture, =
it is=20
only good for a few days. It will mold.)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; The recipe also calls for vegetable =
oil. It says=20
to put a light coat on the egg after it is colored. I have never done =
this and=20
it worked fine. This is to make it shine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>To get yellow use carrot tops. This =
below is how=20
the recipe reads but, generally follow recipe above.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp; Simmer =
4 bunches of=20
carrot tops in 2 quarts of water for 40 minutes. Strain. Add 1 =
tablespoon=20
vinegar, lower eggs and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove eggs and cool but =
do not=20
unwrap.&nbsp; Cool the dye solution and return the wrapped eggs to the =
solution=20
for 4 hours or longer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Dark brown (chocolate), use coffee right out of the=20
pot.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>Tan, use tea.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Pale green, spinach =
leaves.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>Pale yellow, =
dandelion=20
flowers.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Pink, cherries or beets.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Bluish purple, red cabbage or =
blueberries.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; For any =
of the above=20
colors, loosely follow onion skin recipe. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Michelle</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 01:16:24 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Far Horizons
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 14:06:54 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

Just been watching Far Horizons (set in North America, early 1800s). It is
comforting to know that even Edith Head could not get velvet to work for
men's tailoring!

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 04:45:21 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Henk's book
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 02:58:51 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo Henk

I wholeheartedly agree with Gail. Please do. I'd buy several copies; keep 
one for myself, and send the rest out as gifts (to friends and to various 
libraries).

BTW - Thank you for your Spanish costume info. It really helped.

Lonna




>From: Gaelscot@aol.com
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Re: Henk's book
>Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 15:44:15 EDT
>
>
>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>
>
>Henk, I'm begging you. Please do it! I would buy it! I know dozens of 
>people
>who would buy it!
>
>Gail Finke
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Thanks for help on Spanish costume question
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo all

Just remembered that other folks helped with this; not just Henk. Many 
thanks to you all. Please forgive my lapse. Brain has not been in top form 
lately due to a bit of insomnia. Am going to try and remedy that right now.

Thanks again

Lonna

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Message-ID: <01BF01CB.6BD25AC0.Elizabeth@witchwood.prestel.co.uk>
From: Elizabeth <Elizabeth@witchwood.prestel.co.uk>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Blackwork Cuffs and collar (fwd)
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 13:03:04 +0100
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-Poster: Elizabeth <Elizabeth@witchwood.prestel.co.uk>

I am so behind on my email it is untrue.
I have recently been to the V&A to look at their blackwork collection.  I 
have a rough estimate of the thread count, it really was too fine to count 
accurately through the glass, of approximately 50 threads per inch but this 
is probably a little too small, it could be as much as 100 threads per 
inch!  Warning do not attempt to count this I nearly went cross eyed 
attempting to do it!

The cloth was definitely linen.
Elizabeth

http://www.homeusers.prestel.co.uk/witchwood/index.html

> I am thinking of doing a set of Blackwork cuffs and a collar for Kingdom 
A&S. I
> have a picture of a Holbein painting that I am going to use as a pattern.
>
> Does anyone know what type of cloth and the thread count that would have 
been
> used?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 06:10:56 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 11:26:12 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair color
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Sarah Toney wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> 
> I used this once... just a fair warning... I have
> blonde hair naturally (though it never stays blonde
> for more than a day... always red)... this dye took to
> my hair VERY strongly... so be careful.
> 
> So, to get this to a historical nature... in what
> periods in history did women dye their hair and in
> which was this fad not commonly practised?  What did
> they use to dye their hair?  I seem to remember
> something from my past about hearing that Israelite
> women around 1 A.D. were considered "harlots" if they
> dyed their hair... is this true? (I know my mom still
> thinks it is "daring and asking for it" (whatever "it"
> is))
> 
> Sarah
> 
> > >
> > >I've been considering the Clairol Natural Instincts
> > Black Cherry colorant,
> > >ever since someone told me it turned her grey hair
> > bright purple.  Now THAT
> > >sounds like fun!
> > >
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
It was very popular in the Italian Renaissance period for venetian women
to dye their hair blonde using urine which is the best source of
ammonia. Saffron has also been used for hair dyes and I once read an
account although at the moment I can't remember where that privet was
used in england during the tudor period for redhair I have tried this
and it works
Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 06:11:21 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 11:38:25 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: historic film costumes
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
> 
> Hi,
> Okay I know that in a lot (most) cases costumes in
> historic set films are not accurate. I would assume
> in cases like "Ever After" they were shooting more
> to "awe" the audience than to please the few who
> would know the difference between an exact replica dress and one they had taken much liberty with.
> anyway, Here is the question I pose to you all..
> 
> In movies made by A&E/BBC, would you in your costuming
> expertise, say the costumes were more accurate?
> 
> I have seen most of the period films they produce
> (Emma, Jane Eyre, Tess of the d'Urbervilles, The
> Buccaneers, Moll Flanders, ETC.) and most of them
> seem fairly true to form, at least to my non-
> professional eye. I read a lot and I "look" a lot;
> from paintings, vintage photos, exhibits and the
> like (things depicting  period clothing as it was)
> I have found that the majority of the clothing
> represented in this company's films to be pretty
> much exact.  Like I said I'm not totally positive,
> seeing as how I'm at best a gross amateur. I was
> however interested in the views of the people on
> this list seeing as how most of you seem to be
> either professionals or have been doing this for a
> very long time and know much about it. I ask specifically about the A&E/BBC films because they
> seem to be the most accurate in costuming that I
> have noticed (like I could be wrong on this one,
> lol) but also their sets and props seem to be VERY
> precise. My father is a collector of antique
> tableware and has commented at the accuracy of the
> dishes etc. in some of these films and I am a
> student of Historic restoration/Architecture history,
> and they are very exact when recreating interiors
> of buildings, in many class ranges I've noticed.
> anyway sorry this post was so long I expected it
> to be short, but I tend to babble I guess.
> 
> Ever Yours,
> Ginnaphure
> 
> ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
> ICQ# 41340093
> AIM: Ginnaphure
> 
> "Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake."
> 
> Get free e-mail with a women.com membership at http://women.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
The one thing you can guarantee on any film or tv historical drama is
that the military uniforms won't be right, including Sharpe,( Crimean
War Hussars turn up fighting the Battle of Waterloo), 1815 Lifeguards as
Irish  1790's Militia (Aristocrats) etc etc. Even when military advisors
are employed such as Colonel Peter Walton on the BBC's last version of
Pride and Predudice their suggestions are often ignored. I made the
prototype Royal Marine Uniform for Hornblower (piccie on my website)
because John Mollo was determined to have an accurate uniform to start
off with which could then be copied for cheap in an east end sweatshop.
I also made an accurate arming doublet for Dougray Scott for Ever After
and believe me the date/ country influence spex were pretty widespread.
 When I made the padded akhetons etc for Zefferelli's Hamlet the
designer took them away to 'trim them up' and make them look butch?!!!!

Dawn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 07:04:20 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentary was: Ever After
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 06:26:01 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

OK, but has anyone ever seen or heard of the undergarment I spoke of?  We
seem to have gotten off on a tangent of movie costuming in general, and the
historical accuracy of this movie in particular, which I was hoping to
avoid.

My question, (again) their are (2) scenes where we see Danielle without her
dress on.  Changing clothes, and swimming.  She is wearing an undergarment
the same color as the dress, it appears to be a stiffened (not boned)
bodice that laces up the side back.  Has anyone ever seen or read about
such an undergarment?

Thank you,

Kathlene

----------
> From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentatry was: Ever After
> Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 10:22 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
> 
> >> << So here I am trying to find the period representations of the
> >>  various pieces and cannot find anything! Help! >>
> 
> The bulk of the costumes in "Ever After" were based on very early 16th c
> Italians, and a few of the women's gowns were fairly decent renditions of
> German styles.
> 
> Julie Adams
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 09:20:48 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <sewinghistoric@onelist.com>, "Sewing" <sewing@onelist.com>,
        "HCostume" <h-costume@indra.com>, <costumes@onelist.com>,
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References: <01ed01bef40e$68c4ccc0$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com>
Subject: H-COST: OOPs ... Wonder what happened?
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 10:19:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

As you can see below I wrote and sent this on August 31...I've no idea why
it waited till now...when everything in here has been mentioned by someone
else already...to appear on the mailing lists.

Apologies for the odd glitch.

~K

----- Original Message -----
From: Kyna Grannd <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: Sewing <sewing@onelist.com>; <sewinghistoric@onelist.com>; HCostume
<h-costume@indra.com>; <costumes@onelist.com>; <Costumers@onelist.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 1999 8:10 PM
Subject: [sewinghistoric] H-COST: New Simplicity Patterns esp. Zoot and
Renaissance


> From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
>
>
> -Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
>
> Apologies for multiple postings...but these topics where brought up on
> almost all of these lists in recent months...so here goes...
>
> Well, seems like the Retro collection is as close as you can get. There is
a
> new pattern out for a men's suit that with just a little tweaking could be
a
> good Zoot Suit.  It's Pattern # 8879. From what I can see in the sketches,
> the pants would need to come up higher on the waist and the waist band
> removed. The Jacket needs a wider lapel and a bit more shoulder and
> bagginess to the body.
>
> For those that were looking for the new Renaissance and Celtic patterns,
> they are up online now also.
>
> http://www.simplicity.com
>
> Regards,
>
> ~Kyna
>
>  _________________________________________________________________


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 09:33:49 1999
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:41:07 -0400
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

>My question is, how accurate is it to copy these 
> gowns for the rest of Europe? Did Greenlanders wear the same thing as 
> everyone else? Were they maybe a bit behind the times? Were these
garments 
> worn throughout Europe -- but by only one class, or as only a small part
of 
> the garment choices available? 

Looks pretty accurate for most of northern Europe based on comparisons of
the garments with pictures -- Henk would probably know a lot about this
one.

Kristin
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 09:34:37 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 09:54:56 -0500
From: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
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-Poster: "V. Renee Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

> Clothes Make the Man: Female Cross Dressing in Medieval
> Europe by Valerie R Hotchkiss
ISBN:  0815323697

Borders has it for $35.45 including S&H.  Find it via www.borders.com or www.bestbookbuys.com

HTH, Renee

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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Interesting things to do with vinegar (was freezing and onion skins)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 10:49:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

I doubt the proportions are too critical.  Just rinse well,
so that the acid residue doesn't stay on the ivory.  For
washing windows, I use a plastic Rubbermaid kitchen
wastebasket (the size that plastic grocery bags fit
perfectly into), add a drop (no more) of liquid dishwashing
detergent (optional), add a few glug-glugs of vinegar (any
kind, but white is cheapest)  fill it 1/2 full with warm
water.  Works great on windows with no rinsing. Use a
squeegee and rags.  It works on a lot of stuff you need to
clean around the house too, like the grease dust that builds
up on the surface of  the range hood, cabinet fronts, vinyl
car interiors, etc. The detergent is really only useful as a
fragrance, if you add too much, you just ranve to start
rinsing, which is usually counterproductive.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Michelle
> Sent: Saturday, September 18, 1999 12:18 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Interesting things to do with vinegar
> (was freezing
> and onion skins)
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
> Look in a natural cleaning book for window cleaning
recipes.
> I'll research
> it here if you don't have any books. I have quite a few.
Let me know.
>  Michelle
>
> >-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
> >
> >Slightly off topic:
> >
> >On the subject of vinegar....
> >
> >My mother of beloved memory used to use white vinegar
mixed with warm
> >water to clean ivory. It worked very well too, even on
very
> old pieces.
> >The problem is I can't remember the proportions. Has
anyone
> any ideas on
> >this?
> >
> >
> > Arlys
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________
________
> >Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> >Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for
a month!
> >Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
> >
____________________________________________________________
_____
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 09:54:17 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 11:04:34 -0400
From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Chiffon on eBay - again - and Edwardian coat
References: <007501bf00d2$84773400$2671fea9@gunsafes> 
		<37E23A06.5F8430E3@home.com> <37E27C71.BB680027@home.com>
		<37E2A383.A336FE1D@home.com> <19990917.123350.4791.0.cley@juno.com>
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

Sorry for forgetting to note this before: It is poly chiffon; not silk.

Thanks!
Jennie

P.S. - I am, indeed, going to offer a pattern for the Edwardian walking
suit coat that Sarah loved so much.  I am working on that right now.  It
will just be a straight tracing job (no other sizes), and I will be
including the design for the cording that decorates it.  :-)

--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 11:16:10 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 09:34:26 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Interesting things to do with vinegar (was freezing
	 and onion skins)
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I have not been following this too closely but
RINSE SILK
Silk is a protein and soap is very alkaline.  After washing silk it is
always a good idea to add a litle vinegar to your rinse water to restore the
acid nature of the silk.  It strengthens it and makes it last longer.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: H-COST: Interesting things to do with vinegar (was freezing
and onion skins)
>Date: Sat, Sep 18, 1999, 7:49 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>
>I doubt the proportions are too critical.  Just rinse well,
>so that the acid residue doesn't stay on the ivory.  For
>washing windows, I use a plastic Rubbermaid kitchen
>wastebasket (the size that plastic grocery bags fit
>perfectly into), add a drop (no more) of liquid dishwashing
>detergent (optional), add a few glug-glugs of vinegar (any
>kind, but white is cheapest)  fill it 1/2 full with warm
>water.  Works great on windows with no rinsing. Use a
>squeegee and rags.  It works on a lot of stuff you need to
>clean around the house too, like the grease dust that builds
>up on the surface of  the range hood, cabinet fronts, vinyl
>car interiors, etc. The detergent is really only useful as a
>fragrance, if you add too much, you just ranve to start
>rinsing, which is usually counterproductive.
>
>Hope H. Dunlap
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
>[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
>> Behalf Of Michelle
>> Sent: Saturday, September 18, 1999 12:18 AM
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: Re: H-COST: Interesting things to do with vinegar
>> (was freezing
>> and onion skins)
>>
>>
>>
>> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>>
>> Look in a natural cleaning book for window cleaning
>recipes.
>> I'll research
>> it here if you don't have any books. I have quite a few.
>Let me know.
>>  Michelle
>>
>> >-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
>> >
>> >Slightly off topic:
>> >
>> >On the subject of vinegar....
>> >
>> >My mother of beloved memory used to use white vinegar
>mixed with warm
>> >water to clean ivory. It worked very well too, even on
>very
>> old pieces.
>> >The problem is I can't remember the proportions. Has
>anyone
>> any ideas on
>> >this?
>> >
>> >
>> > Arlys
>> >
>>
>>___________________________________________________________
>________
>> >Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>> >Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for
>a month!
>> >Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>> >
>____________________________________________________________
>_____
>> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to
>majordomo@indra.com
>> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>>
>____________________________________________________________
>_____
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
>majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 11:21:50 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Dutch Costume, c. 975
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 12:45:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>


>From time to time, List members ask about early Dutch
costume.  The Egmond Gospels from the year 975 are purported
to show some of the earliest depictions of the Dutch people.
One beautiful picture is available on line at
http://www.konbib.nl/kb/100hoogte/hh-en/hh001-en.html.
Click on it to get a full screen view.  **Lots** of other
good illustrations from later periods are available at
Koninklijke Bibliotheek, the  National Library of the
Netherlands, here:
http://www.konbib.nl/kb/100hoogte/menu-tours-en.html.
Enjoy!

Hope H. Dunlap


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: BP (was H-COST: Canadian Iceman update - OT)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 10:10:23 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>
>>Marc Carlson wrote:
>>
>>> Um, no.  In either AD or CE there is no year "0".  That's why 2001 is
the
>>> beginning
>>> of the next Millenium.
>
>Um, no its not.  Jan1, 2000 is the beginning of the new millenium, but this
>is way too off topic for this list...  Anyone curious needs to review some
>graphs and mathmatics...
>
>Julie Adams
>
So, this would mean that the first decade only had 9 years. They got ripped
off.
           I agree with Marc
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 11:57:20 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Norman Psalter of 1180
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 13:21:12 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Check out this 12th century nobleman's hawking outfit: blue
cape, ermine (!) gown, and incredible patterned hose at
http://www.konbib.nl/100hoogte/hh-im/hh003.html.

Hope H. Dunlap




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 11:58:37 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentary was: Ever After
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 10:22:01 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



I thought she had removed the skirt and sleeves, leaving her bodice and
chemise on. The bodice seemed to be the same blue as her main gown was.
    I will watch the movie today and get back to you.
   It might be an interpretation of the petticoat bodice that Drea was
talking about earlier on the list.
   Michelle

>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>
>
>My question, (again) their are (2) scenes where we see Danielle without her
>dress on.  Changing clothes, and swimming.  She is wearing an undergarment
>the same color as the dress, it appears to be a stiffened (not boned)
>bodice that laces up the side back.  Has anyone ever seen or read about
>such an undergarment?
>
>Thank you,
>
>Kathlene
>
>----------
>> From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentatry was: Ever After
>> Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 10:22 PM
>>
>>
>> -Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>>
>> >> << So here I am trying to find the period representations of the
>> >>  various pieces and cannot find anything! Help! >>
>>
>> The bulk of the costumes in "Ever After" were based on very early 16th c
>> Italians, and a few of the women's gowns were fairly decent renditions of
>> German styles.
>>
>> Julie Adams
>>
>>
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 12:23:57 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 13:38:41 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Interesting things to do with vinegar (was freezing and
	onion ski...
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

I always keep a spray bottle in the costume shop full of half vinegar and 
half water to difficult to remove old creases (as in vintage trouser hems, 
etc.) Cheryl, Odom
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 12:24:40 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 10:36:18 -0700
From: Florence Palmer <FJPalmer@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Florence Palmer <FJPalmer@earthlink.net>

His time period is AS34 Caidian.  Mine is 12th.  Hell pretty much wear whatever
I make for him.   My problem if figuring out what to make.



Maykn
:o)



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 12:32:49 1999
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-Poster: Florence Palmer <FJPalmer@earthlink.net>

My sewing is pretty good.   I have made quite a few shirts and pants and tunics
and a few Irishes and a couple Citons.   But what is a bastard Houppelande?  I
have heard of a Houppelande.  I could even get a pattern  But the other I am not
sure.

Maykn

:o)



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 13:18:26 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: millennium
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I think Dave Barry explained the spelling best of all with this mnemonic:

Two Ns and two Ls
You've spelled it quite well.
One L and one N
You're a big, fat, stupid hen.

Cheers! Gail Finke
(he's a humor columnist, for those in other countries)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 14:23:25 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Chiffon on eBay - again - and Edwardian coat
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Did I happen to mention how amazingly wonderful you
are?  Please, please let me know when you have this!

Sarah


> P.S. - I am, indeed, going to offer a pattern for
> the Edwardian walking
> suit coat that Sarah loved so much.  I am working on
> that right now.  It
> will just be a straight tracing job (no other
> sizes), and I will be
> including the design for the cording that decorates
> it.  :-)
> 
> --
> Sense and Sensibility
> http://www.sensibility.com
> winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 14:33:05 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

I knew I would hit one book that someone here wrote...
please tell... what will I learn in your book, please?


I really appreciate all the advice on the books,
guys...  I think I have become an addict. ;-)

Sarah


> >After A Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore and Wear
> >Vintage Styles by Frances Grimble
> 
> LOL!  Since Fran is a list member...Fran...I suppose
> you could let her know
> about your book.. *g*
> 
> Gia/Giacinta
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 14:34:37 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> > Women's Costume in French texts of the Eleventh
> and
> > Twelfth centuries by Eunice Rathbone Goddard
> 
> Have you actually found a copy of this?  I've been
> looking for one for
> quite some time with no luck.
> 
> --Charlene

According to Amazon, it is out of print, though I am
considering having them locate one for me.

Sarah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 14:34:51 1999
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/17/1999 16:28:16 Pacific Daylight Time, 
kat@grendal.rain.com writes:

<< Dull is probably right, but what  costumer really reads all the drivel 
they print in the text part.  They are merely interpreting what they see in 
the pictures (which 
 might not be a valid interpretation.) >>

I did!

Call me crazy, but I thought it fascinating.  much of it is history, and you 
get an idea of why people dress a certain way if you know they need to be 
warm, or are in a war, so much shield themselves from errants rocks, swords, 
whatever...

I think Boucher is well researched, and for the most part, the "drivel' is 
accurate.
I don't think I wasted my time.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Be not afraid of greatness; some are born great,
some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust 
upon them."
Twelfth-Night, II, v - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:   http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 14:52:10 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Modification of pseudo-Italian-Ren
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-Poster: Jennifer Arnott <cecilia@tcinternet.net>

I've got a question.

A few weeks ago, I went off cheerfully to the local Ren-Fest. There, I
bought a rather lovely dress (lovely in its own right, rather than for any
sense of accuracy.) I recognised at the time that while it was related to
Italian Renaissance designs I was familiar with, it probably wasn't
accurate. (So I'm not going to be disturbed if anyone tells me that...)

However, it's a very nice over-dress, and I *do* play in the SCA, and if I
can find a way to make this more accurate, I'd like to do so. My sewing
capability is *probably* up to most suggestions, but simpler suggestions
would be nice.

The overdress is one of those "Shoulder straps" and a sort of half-bodice
and split skirt. It laces with .. oh, 5 or 6 grommets below the breasts,
but there's no fabric in the over dress above the breasts. It's meant to be
worn over a chemise and/or underdress. The fabric is a deep rust colored
brocade, mid-weight.

I have a vague memory, somewhere, of a garment something like this being
worn over another, more modest, over dress (rather than just over the
chemise). However, for the life of me, I can't remember where, and I might
just be hallucinating.

Alternatively, does anyone have suggestions for other modifications?

Regardless of whether I can figure out some way to make it physically
resemble an accurate historical garment, I'm very happy with it, and I'll
find other uses for it. So I'm not *overly* worried about this.

Thank you!

-Jennifer


------------------- cecilia@tcinternet.net------------------
- Look, I may not be an explorer -- or an adventurer -- or a
- treasure-seeker -- or a gunfighter, Mr. O'Connell.  But I am
- *proud* of what I am ... *I*...am a *librarian*! - "The Mummy"
---------- http://www.tcinternet.net/users/cecilia/ ----------
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 14:56:16 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 16:08:28 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
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-Poster: Gerekr@aol.com

Hello all,

Went to this weekend's Joanne's 99cent pattern sale and came home with 
the Shakespeare-in-Love, of course... 8-)

We also had a short list of others that I don't particularly remember 
being discussed?  at least not in terms beyond the pattern numbers, which 
I was not at the time connecting to...

So please excuse any duplication, but...

S 8725 looks great on the pattern envelope (reminds me of the 
villain-princess/queen, Urraca, in El Cid, that's what), and looked even 
better when I saw the pattern pieces.  So, except for their buttoning it 
up the back, which is far better than a zipper (!), how far off is this 
one?  I also grabbed the accessory pattern that goes with this, 8725, 
with the headdresses and mantle.

I debated and debated, but, for 99cents, finally got the 7761, two men's 
upper garments... on the strength of the line drawing on the 
instructions, of the red one, which reminds me of something French but 
Richard III period? Argh, searching Boucher, Payne, Davenport, Norris 
even... can't find it, but it's feeling like Italian influenced 
Flemish/French at the end of the 15thC?  part of the transition from 
short houpelande to Tudor/Eliz heavy construction.  Anybody have any idea 
what I'm talking about 8-0!! 8-).  Anyway, my 7 yr old immediately said 
he wanted "one like the (other one)", so it's not a wasted 99cents.  Any 
opinion on how bad that shirt is?  band collar and gathered wrists... 
just typical renn-faire fare? or worse?

I'm thinkng of going back after 8735, the "better" of the Italian 
Renaissance... got turned off by the bodice darts yesterday... opinions?

Thanks,
Chimene

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 15:20:42 1999
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Sarah Toney wrote:

> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>
> I knew I would hit one book that someone here wrote...
> please tell... what will I learn in your book, please?
>
> I really appreciate all the advice on the books,
> guys...  I think I have become an addict. ;-)
>
> Sarah

The web site can probably explain that, at least for starters . . .

http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm

Fran




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 15:35:21 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

That's keen.  It certainly supports the "cutting hose on the bias" plan,
doesn't it?

> Check out this 12th century nobleman's hawking outfit: blue
> cape, ermine (!) gown, and incredible patterned hose at
> http://www.konbib.nl/100hoogte/hh-im/hh003.html.
> 
> Hope H. Dunlap

--
It's nearly time for October Fools' Day -- the Southern Hemisphere
version of April Fools' Day.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 15:55:11 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

He must have been a very brave man to have a hawk anywhere near an "entire"
stallion and then to drop his reins.( or very foolish) I can't see how his
hose would have lasted very long at all.
Just an observation.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
 > -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
> That's keen.  It certainly supports the "cutting hose on the bias" plan,
> doesn't it?
>
> > Check out this 12th century nobleman's hawking outfit: blue
> > cape, ermine (!) gown, and incredible patterned hose at
> > http://www.konbib.nl/100hoogte/hh-im/hh003.html.
> >
> > Hope H. Dunlap
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 17:07:33 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentary was: Ever After
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 15:28:10 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Ok, I went and watched Ever After. The garment asked about is shown when she
swims and when she dresses up to go to court and buy 'her' servant.  It is a
side-backlaced underbodice.  It was probably used in place of a corset for
breast support. The only documentation I can come up with without looking
into it extensively is the underbodice of Eleonora of Toledo. In JA's
Patterns of Fashion, there is a drawing of (what was left of) a red velvet
under bodice (page 40, caption 286 discusses it).
   Also, since the overdress doesn't meet in the middle, it is decorative.
It reminds me of some of the Flemish or German styles, with the large space
for lacing.
Michelle
-----Original Message-----
From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentary was: Ever After


>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
>
>I thought she had removed the skirt and sleeves, leaving her bodice and
>chemise on. The bodice seemed to be the same blue as her main gown was.
>    I will watch the movie today and get back to you.
>   It might be an interpretation of the petticoat bodice that Drea was
>talking about earlier on the list.
>   Michelle
>
>>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>>
>>
>>My question, (again) their are (2) scenes where we see Danielle without
her
>>dress on.  Changing clothes, and swimming.  She is wearing an undergarment
>>the same color as the dress, it appears to be a stiffened (not boned)
>>bodice that laces up the side back.  Has anyone ever seen or read about
>>such an undergarment?
>>
>>Thank you,
>>
>>Kathlene
>>
>>----------
>>> From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>>> Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentatry was: Ever After
>>> Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 10:22 PM
>>>
>>>
>>> -Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>>>
>>> >> << So here I am trying to find the period representations of the
>>> >>  various pieces and cannot find anything! Help! >>
>>>
>>> The bulk of the costumes in "Ever After" were based on very early 16th c
>>> Italians, and a few of the women's gowns were fairly decent renditions
of
>>> German styles.
>>>
>>> Julie Adams
>>>
>>>
>>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 17:48:09 1999
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From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

Danielle also wears a light olive/oatmeal (the color on the office TV is mesed up due to a lightning strike, so I could be wrong, lol) colored one exactly like the blue one discussed, when she and the prince are with the gypsies. The part where she takes off her dress and climbs up the tree to find out which way they should go. Anyway just thought I'd throw that in, you seem to see that one a little longer and better than you do the blue one.


Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure


"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 




On Sat, 18 Sep 1999 15:28:10   Michelle wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>Ok, I went and watched Ever After. The garment asked about is shown when she
>swims and when she dresses up to go to court and buy 'her' servant.  It is a
>side-backlaced underbodice.  It was probably used in place of a corset for
>breast support. The only documentation I can come up with without looking
>into it extensively is the underbodice of Eleonora of Toledo. In JA's
>Patterns of Fashion, there is a drawing of (what was left of) a red velvet
>under bodice (page 40, caption 286 discusses it).
>   Also, since the overdress doesn't meet in the middle, it is decorative.
>It reminds me of some of the Flemish or German styles, with the large space
>for lacing.
>Michelle
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 10:15 AM
>Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentary was: Ever After
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>I thought she had removed the skirt and sleeves, leaving her bodice and
>>chemise on. The bodice seemed to be the same blue as her main gown was.
>>    I will watch the movie today and get back to you.
>>   It might be an interpretation of the petticoat bodice that Drea was
>>talking about earlier on the list.
>>   Michelle
>>
>>>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>>>
>>>
>>>My question, (again) their are (2) scenes where we see Danielle without
>her
>>>dress on.  Changing clothes, and swimming.  She is wearing an undergarment
>>>the same color as the dress, it appears to be a stiffened (not boned)
>>>bodice that laces up the side back.  Has anyone ever seen or read about
>>>such an undergarment?
>>>
>>>Thank you,
>>>
>>>Kathlene
>>>
>>>----------
>>>> From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>>>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>>>> Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentatry was: Ever After
>>>> Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 10:22 PM
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>>>>
>>>> >> << So here I am trying to find the period representations of the
>>>> >>  various pieces and cannot find anything! Help! >>
>>>>
>>>> The bulk of the costumes in "Ever After" were based on very early 16th c
>>>> Italians, and a few of the women's gowns were fairly decent renditions
>of
>>>> German styles.
>>>>
>>>> Julie Adams
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>> _________________________________________________________________
>>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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>


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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Millenium (OT)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 22:13:34 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings--

>So, this would mean that the first decade only had 9 years. They got ripped
>off.
>           I agree with Marc
>Michelle


As do I.  In any case, it's a moot point. It's now generally accepted that
Dionysius Exiguus was off by about seven years when he set the date of
Christ's birth, and that it actually happened circa 7 BC.  So we're into the
third millenium of the Christian era already.

Pick any point in time and it's " the start of a new millenium."  It's just
that some millenia have pretty numbers associated with them.

Susan

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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: crochet/tatting
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 04:31 PM 9/17/99 EDT, Schmitt100@aol.com wrote:
>
>-Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com
>
>Next question (OK, so I missed de-lurkers day cuz of work, I'm making up for 
>it now ;-)
>
>When is crocheting and tatting period? These are both arts that I am somewhat 
>conversant in and would like to know when I can start using them in my 
>costumes!
[snip]

The earliest I would be comfortable with *any* crocheting would be about
1840. Crocheting seems to be more used after the ACW than before. And it
seems that the method of working in the round is usually to work into the
back loop only; to paraphrase a comment I found in one pattern, "unlike our
usual way of working, put the hook through both loops of each stitch". The
"back loop only" method of working in the round allows any color pattern to
be exactly vertical, rather than being distorted, since you join the last
stitch of the row to the first and then use one or two chain stitches to get
in position to put the first stitch of the next row in the first stitch of
the just-finished row (much easier to show than to describe <g>). This
method of working also makes breaking off at the end of each row (for a flat
piece) and starting at the beginning end more comprehensible; working into
the back loop will only give you a truly flat piece if you work from the
same side all the time. Many of the 1870's to 1890's patterns I have seen
were trims recommended for petticoats (and at least one petticoat in fine
yarn), collars, cuffs, and household linens; actual outer garments, shawls,
and hats; and purses and bags of various sorts, etc. 

Tatting (or frivolite [it's a French name, no way to show the accent], as it
was known early on) does not start until later than crocheting, but even
then is not the ring-and-chain tatting that we know today; it was done with
a single shuttle, with any "chain" done after the piece was finished by
buttonhole stitching over the space. The ring-and-chain style developed
sometime just before the ACW, but was not widely adopted for a while. The
really wide use of tatting on clothing and accessories seems to start near
the end of the 19th century (I have a number of pattern books put out by
Dover that are compilations of early 1900's through 1920's patterns).
Tatting would be *great* for Edwardian outfits. Many of the patterns are for
yokes of nightgowns (in size 70 or 100 thread!). There are patterns for hair
or hat decorations (some with part of the pattern worked over a fine wire to
allow shaping) and small purses, both often with beading incorporated; and
lots of patterns for applique pieces (again, often with beads).

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 22:08:09 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentary was: Ever After
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 21:29:38 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Thanks Michelle, I am looking at it as I type.

Kathlene

----------
> From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentary was: Ever After
> Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 4:28 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> Ok, I went and watched Ever After. The garment asked about is shown when
she
> swims and when she dresses up to go to court and buy 'her' servant.  It
is a
> side-backlaced underbodice.  It was probably used in place of a corset
for
> breast support. The only documentation I can come up with without looking
> into it extensively is the underbodice of Eleonora of Toledo. In JA's
> Patterns of Fashion, there is a drawing of (what was left of) a red
velvet
> under bodice (page 40, caption 286 discusses it).
>    Also, since the overdress doesn't meet in the middle, it is
decorative.
> It reminds me of some of the Flemish or German styles, with the large
space
> for lacing.
> Michelle
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 10:15 AM
> Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentary was: Ever After
> 
> 
> >
> >-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> >
> >
> >
> >I thought she had removed the skirt and sleeves, leaving her bodice and
> >chemise on. The bodice seemed to be the same blue as her main gown was.
> >    I will watch the movie today and get back to you.
> >   It might be an interpretation of the petticoat bodice that Drea was
> >talking about earlier on the list.
> >   Michelle
> >
> >>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> >>
> >>
> >>My question, (again) their are (2) scenes where we see Danielle without
> her
> >>dress on.  Changing clothes, and swimming.  She is wearing an
undergarment
> >>the same color as the dress, it appears to be a stiffened (not boned)
> >>bodice that laces up the side back.  Has anyone ever seen or read about
> >>such an undergarment?
> >>
> >>Thank you,
> >>
> >>Kathlene
> >>
> >>----------
> >>> From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
> >>> To: h-costume@indra.com
> >>> Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentatry was: Ever After
> >>> Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 10:22 PM
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> -Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
> >>>
> >>> >> << So here I am trying to find the period representations of the
> >>> >>  various pieces and cannot find anything! Help! >>
> >>>
> >>> The bulk of the costumes in "Ever After" were based on very early
16th c
> >>> Italians, and a few of the women's gowns were fairly decent
renditions
> of
> >>> German styles.
> >>>
> >>> Julie Adams
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>  _________________________________________________________________
> >>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >> _________________________________________________________________
> >> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 22:08:46 1999
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

> Many of the 1870's to 1890's patterns I have seen
> were trims recommended for petticoats (and at least one petticoat in fine
> yarn), collars, cuffs, and household linens; actual outer garments, shawls,
> and hats; and purses and bags of various sorts, etc.

I have quite a lot of late 1860s needlework patterns, which include tatted trims
(including tatting with a crochet hook instead of a shuttle), and various
crocheted and knitted garments, including under petticoats and trims for them.
Also--really!--a pattern for a completely knitted corset and another for a
completely crocheted corset.  Corsets, in common corset shapes, labeled as
corsets, not corset covers or warm under vests.  With visible clasps and possibly
boning; in one case, with directions for fitting a muslin first.  These don't seem
to be for children (they have busts).  They don't have a "maternity" abdomen
shape.  They may be for sports or invalids or some special use requiring a light
or elastic corset; but if so this is not mentioned.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 22:13:27 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 23:25:41 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Les Incroyables et Mervilleuses
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

Wow!  Thank you to everyone who responded.  Now I have an excuse to go buy 
more books! <insert evil grin here> ;-)

And Carol, I'd love to see a .jpg of your creation.

--Jen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 18 23:13:44 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <de190c97.25132142@aol.com> <37E3CF90.52D80D6E@earthlink.net>
Subject: H-COST: An event today
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 00:25:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Well, I am kinda tickled pink today.  I went to the Henricus celebration and
got lots of pictures of the interrupters for my Online Costume Ball.  I got
pictures of costumes representing fashions from 1611 to the American Civil
War.  Last year, we did not have many male guests at the Ball.  But this
year we will! I have lots of pictures of men in costume. I took four rolls
of film and the majority of photos turned out.

I also got to photograph a mock wedding of Pocahontas and John Roth.  The
cleryman's costume was my favorite.  He looked like he walked out of the
Milanese Tailor's Handbook.  I sure would like to have a copy of his robe.

I got to talk with Pocahontas historian, Shirley "Little Dove" Custalow
McGowan.  She is of the Mattaponi tribe in Virginia.  I told her about the
Ball, and how we are trying to provide a good representation of all areas of
costume.  She said that she would send me pictures of her people's pow-wow
regalia to be on the Ball.

Remember, Tuesday is the last day to send me pictures to be in the Ball!

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm


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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: crochet/tatting
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I could never figure out tatting until I picked up a book on 'needle'
tatting.  According to the author the needle came before the shuttle.  I
haven't had any time to look into further, though.  I can say, that I have
turned two other people onto it, and now they 'get' tatting too.

Kathlene

----------
> From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: crochet/tatting
> Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 9:24 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
> 
> > Many of the 1870's to 1890's patterns I have seen
> > were trims recommended for petticoats (and at least one petticoat in
fine
> > yarn), collars, cuffs, and household linens; actual outer garments,
shawls,
> > and hats; and purses and bags of various sorts, etc.
> 
> I have quite a lot of late 1860s needlework patterns, which include
tatted trims
> (including tatting with a crochet hook instead of a shuttle), and various
> crocheted and knitted garments, including under petticoats and trims for
them.
> Also--really!--a pattern for a completely knitted corset and another for
a
> completely crocheted corset.  Corsets, in common corset shapes, labeled
as
> corsets, not corset covers or warm under vests.  With visible clasps and
possibly
> boning; in one case, with directions for fitting a muslin first.  These
don't seem
> to be for children (they have busts).  They don't have a "maternity"
abdomen
> shape.  They may be for sports or invalids or some special use requiring
a light
> or elastic corset; but if so this is not mentioned.
> 
> Fran Grimble
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> Visit our web pages!
> Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
> Historic and vintage dance
> http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: "needle" tatting, was Re: H-COST: crochet/tatting
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 10:39 PM 9/18/99 -0600, K & J Hopkins wrote:
>
>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>
>I could never figure out tatting until I picked up a book on 'needle'
>tatting.  According to the author the needle came before the shuttle.  I
>haven't had any time to look into further, though.  I can say, that I have
>turned two other people onto it, and now they 'get' tatting too.
>
>Kathlene

And I have never been able to figure out needle tatting. Using the shuttle
was easy once I had seen it done. And the tools are prettier, too <g>.

What citations does the author of your book give for her assertion that
needle tatting preceeded shuttle tatting? I have always assumed (dangerous,
I know <g>) that tatting developed from knotting, a popular craft in the
17th & 18th centuries. Knotting used a larger, open-ended shuttle. The "fly
fringe" in the 18th century was apparently a patterned knotting (does anyone
have a reference to instructions for doing this?). I have only seen
references to tatting shuttles, not to tatting needles.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 03:27:21 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 01:40:56 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo Chimene

I have 8725 and the mantle/headdress pattern. I made the cote for a friend 
of mine out of cotton bedsheets (don't laugh, they work beautifully for 
good, cheap field garb). It came out okay for a first time, but I need to 
tweak the pattern a bit before I make another one.

One big problem; it's way too long, unless you're about 5'8' or more, and I 
don't remember seeing a way to lengthen or shorten the pattern pieces 
without turning it into a major operation (due to the way the pattern pieces 
are cut). My friend and I are both in the 5'2" to 5'4" range. In other 
words, lots of extra fabric to deal with which can lead to severe "train 
wrecks" (SCA vernacular: The resulting consequence when the wearer, or 
someone else, steps on the wearer's train).

Second problem is that both she and I are a bit large in the rear section 
and the pattern does not allow for extra room in the lower hip/upper 
derriere (again, a major pain to alter, due to the pattern cut).

As you can probably guess by now, I'm not too fond of the way the pattern 
pieces are cut. :-) I know that the pattern people say that (direct quote 
from the pattern notes): "Due to the special nature of this product and a 
need to accomodate today's fabrics, seams have been added where they would 
not have been originally." I tend to disagree with this. If I remember 
correctly, fabrics weren't as wide as they are today (Anybody out there 
willing to add their input on this?).

I also didn't care for the button back. I ended up placing the back pattern 
piece on the fold (making an extra fabric allowance) so that the wearer can 
slip it on and off, thus eliminating the need for a helping hand.

Anyway, the next time I sew this, I'm planning to do a mockup in muslin. 
Then I'm going to mark/cut the finished product in pieces that resemble an 
actual cote pattern (I use some of the ones from Norris v.2. I don't know 
how accurate they are, but I do know that they work for me). After that, I 
should be able to make the needed alterations on each panel.

On a good note, this dress is comfortable to wear and it flows beautifully.

Haven't sewn the sideless yet. Will let you know the results when I do.

On another note, I also picked up the Simplicity '20s pattern (8739) and 
Style 2947 which is a very lovely version of a coccoon coat. Can anyone tell 
me how authentic these are?

Hope the input helps.

Good luck with your projects.

Lonna

>From: Gerekr@aol.com
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
>Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 16:08:28 EDT
>
>
>-Poster: Gerekr@aol.com
>
>Hello all,
>
>Went to this weekend's Joanne's 99cent pattern sale and came home with
>the Shakespeare-in-Love, of course... 8-)
>
>We also had a short list of others that I don't particularly remember
>being discussed?  at least not in terms beyond the pattern numbers, which
>I was not at the time connecting to...
>
>So please excuse any duplication, but...
>
>S 8725 looks great on the pattern envelope (reminds me of the
>villain-princess/queen, Urraca, in El Cid, that's what), and looked even
>better when I saw the pattern pieces.  So, except for their buttoning it
>up the back, which is far better than a zipper (!), how far off is this
>one?  I also grabbed the accessory pattern that goes with this, 8725,
>with the headdresses and mantle.
>
>I debated and debated, but, for 99cents, finally got the 7761, two men's
>upper garments... on the strength of the line drawing on the
>instructions, of the red one, which reminds me of something French but
>Richard III period? Argh, searching Boucher, Payne, Davenport, Norris
>even... can't find it, but it's feeling like Italian influenced
>Flemish/French at the end of the 15thC?  part of the transition from
>short houpelande to Tudor/Eliz heavy construction.  Anybody have any idea
>what I'm talking about 8-0!! 8-).  Anyway, my 7 yr old immediately said
>he wanted "one like the (other one)", so it's not a wasted 99cents.  Any
>opinion on how bad that shirt is?  band collar and gathered wrists...
>just typical renn-faire fare? or worse?
>
>I'm thinkng of going back after 8735, the "better" of the Italian
>Renaissance... got turned off by the bodice darts yesterday... opinions?
>
>Thanks,
>Chimene
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 06:28:05 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <89c56071.25154b3c@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 07:50:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

> S 8725 looks great on the pattern envelope (reminds me of the
> villain-princess/queen, Urraca, in El Cid, that's what), and looked even
> better when I saw the pattern pieces.  So, except for their buttoning it
> up the back, which is far better than a zipper (!), how far off is this
> one?  I also grabbed the accessory pattern that goes with this, 8725,
> with the headdresses and mantle.
>


I saw this gown made up last weekend on a normal woman.  The pattern picture
shows it on a tall skinny model.  I saw it worn by a short, maybe size 10
woman.  It looked awful.  Made her look dumpy and the fabric swallowed her
up.  I've seen this woman in other dresses and she has a great figure.
Also, this dress calls for 10 yards of fabric (in my size).  I also got the
pattern for $.99, but I plan to use it for the sleeves and neckline and to
skip the body parts.
Andrea

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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>


> One big problem; it's way too long, unless you're about 5'8' or more, and I
> don't remember seeing a way to lengthen or shorten the pattern pieces
> without turning it into a major operation

If I recall from the pattern, it's basically two long panels with
half-circle insets that make the skirt.  If you were to shorten the long
panels appropriately, and add the half-circle "gores" so that they start
falling from the waist, it should work fine.

I have a few dresses from my earlier years based on this  principle (in
turn based on a not-so-reliable diagram in a victorian costume book) and
they look quite  good, despite me being 5'2 and well-upholstered.  The
upper body does need to fit fairly closely, though not skintight, so
that I don't appear to be "lost in fabric" as someone described.

> from the pattern notes): "Due to the special nature of this product and a
> need to accomodate today's fabrics, seams have been added where they would
> not have been originally."

Heh.  I agree with you -- this is a misrepresentation, at the least.  If
you want to play with the flow of the skirt in a more accurate manner,
instead of two half-circles on the sideseam, use two quarter circles on
the sideseam, and slit the CF and CB and put half circles there.  That
will distribute the skirts much more evenly.

--
It's nearly time for October Fools' Day -- the Southern Hemisphere
version of April Fools' Day.
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <01ec01bf0244$94043a80$baa11f18@dsc.columbus.rr.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Millenium (OT)
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 13:57:54 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Somehow I dont have the impression that people were running around planning
parties or wondering if there systems would crash as the year Zero
approached.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 08:44:20 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: "needle" tatting, was Re: H-COST: crochet/tatting
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 08:04:27 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Now that I have had a chance to go back and read the introduction, to Learn
Needle Tatting, again, Barbara Foster just says that "needle tatting was
not unknown in the 19th and early 20th century".  There are no citations. 
She calls Tatting an "...ancient form of lace making" (???), but does not
back that up with anything either.

Kathene

----------
> From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: "needle" tatting, was Re: H-COST: crochet/tatting
> Date: Saturday, September 18, 1999 11:19 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
> 
> At 10:39 PM 9/18/99 -0600, K & J Hopkins wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> >
> >I could never figure out tatting until I picked up a book on 'needle'
> >tatting.  According to the author the needle came before the shuttle.  I
> >haven't had any time to look into further, though.  I can say, that I
have
> >turned two other people onto it, and now they 'get' tatting too.
> >
> >Kathlene
> 
> And I have never been able to figure out needle tatting. Using the
shuttle
> was easy once I had seen it done. And the tools are prettier, too <g>.
> 
> What citations does the author of your book give for her assertion that
> needle tatting preceeded shuttle tatting? I have always assumed
(dangerous,
> I know <g>) that tatting developed from knotting, a popular craft in the
> 17th & 18th centuries. Knotting used a larger, open-ended shuttle. The
"fly
> fringe" in the 18th century was apparently a patterned knotting (does
anyone
> have a reference to instructions for doing this?). I have only seen
> references to tatting shuttles, not to tatting needles.
> 
> Joan Jurancich
> Sacramento, CA
> joanj@quiknet.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 10:42:54 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
Message-ID: <19990919.073226.4543.0.cley@juno.com>
References: <19990919084057.21344.qmail@hotmail.com>
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Lonna wrote:
> If I remember correctly, fabrics weren't as wide as they are today
(Anybody out 
>there willing to add their input on this?).

They weren't. I don't remember the measurements exactly, but somewhere
around 20-30"  was normal, as I recall. Basically whatever your loom
allowed.


						Arlys



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 12:28:41 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 19:43:22 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Kiristin wrote:
> >My question is, how accurate is it to copy these 
> > gowns for the rest of Europe? Did Greenlanders wear the same thing as 
> > everyone else? Were they maybe a bit behind the times? Were these
> garments 
> > worn throughout Europe -- but by only one class, or as only a small
part
> of 
> > the garment choices available? 
> 
> Looks pretty accurate for most of northern Europe based on comparisons of
> the garments with pictures -- Henk would probably know a lot about this
> one.

Not much more than you, and certainly less than Marc and Robin. 

I always wondered, though, seeing all these narrow strips of cloth, if
there wasn't something else behind this type of pattern. It looks on the
one hand if the maker of these (sur)cottes was extremely thrifty with
cloth. This makes sence, because cloth must have been very expensive in
Greenland. On the other hand there might be something else that has
happened. It might have to do with dresses or cottes being left after death
to other members of the family, which was not uncommon even till far after
the middle ages had ended. Cloth being so rare, garments might have been
enlarged, fitting larger people, taken in again for smaller wearers and
then enlarged again for others again, by inserting gores again (lots of
agains ;-)). Also a garment might have been enlarged for one person as
he/she grew older and his/her girth expanded. 

Apart from the use of buttons, these costumes don't look typically 14th c.
The width of them and the use of narrow gores is more 13th c and earlier
than 13th c. It may be, though, that in circles of farmers and small
craftsmen the 13th c manners of garment making kept going strong,
especailly in out of the way places with no access to fashion statements by
the nobility or rich merchant class.

On the other other hand: people in Greenland might have done things in
their peculiarly own way, just because they had been doing it this way for
generations and because they had learned to be very careful with using
cloth.

So what do you think, Marc?

Henk




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 13:28:42 1999
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From: "Linda" <lindap@texas.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909150108.TAA29649@net.indra.com> <37DEF976.B43CC66F@vci.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Uniquely You
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 13:42:07 -0500
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-Poster: "Linda" <lindap@texas.net>

Does anyone know if Greenberg and Hammer has a web site?  Also, there was a
recent GREAT link posted on prices, sizes of forms and covers available,
etc, but it seems to have gone into the Twilight Zone here.   Would whoever
that wonderful person was be so kind to repost, please?   It would be
greatly appreciated.
Linda P.


----- Original Message -----
From: <schuck@vci.net>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 1999 8:42 PM
Subject: H-COST: Re:where to buy uniquely you


>
> -Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
>
> Hi
> Where could I buy a Uniquely you dressform? They sound useful.
>
> jb
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 13:41:06 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 11:51:58 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Thought so. Looks like Simplicity is being a bit creative with the pattern 
pieces. My next question is; was the Simplicity version of this pattern used 
in period? I don't seen to recall seeing anything like it. It seems to me to 
be more of a modern (or fairytale (?)) interpreation of a period style than 
the actual thing. And, yes it does look good if you are tall and willowy. 
But, if you're not, it does need some major overhauling.


>From: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>CC: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
>Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 11:53:19 EDT
>
>-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
>
>Lonna wrote:
> > If I remember correctly, fabrics weren't as wide as they are today
>(Anybody out
> >there willing to add their input on this?).
>
>They weren't. I don't remember the measurements exactly, but somewhere
>around 20-30"  was normal, as I recall. Basically whatever your loom
>allowed.
>
>
>						Arlys
>
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
>Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 13:42:29 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Millenium (OT)
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 12:03:59 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Susan,
  You are right and we took this conversation to private email.  I think
however that the millenium should be added to the suggestion of what never
to say on a first date. Everyone has such firm opinions.  "When on a first
date, never discuss politics, abortion or the new millenium."
Michelle
-

>
>-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
>
>Greetings--
>
>>So, this would mean that the first decade only had 9 years. They got
ripped
>>off.
>>           I agree with Marc
>>Michelle
>
>
>As do I.  In any case, it's a moot point. It's now generally accepted that
>Dionysius Exiguus was off by about seven years when he set the date of
>Christ's birth, and that it actually happened circa 7 BC.  So we're into
the
>third millenium of the Christian era already.
>
>
>Susan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 13:44:16 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909191742.TAA09782@worldonline.nl>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns-offshoot
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 19:57:13 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Henk spoke about the passing down of dresses to later members of the family
and it reminded me of something similar that I had come across. A few years
ago a tourist event I saw a group of  dancers from the North East UK  ( rare
in itself as the NW has much stronger dance traditions); They told me that
there costume was based on the traditional costume of the regional
fishwives. The skirts were very heavy and made from frilled lateral sections
with enough length to fit people of around nine feet tall.. There were only
ever made in full adult size. When a young girl was old enough to work she
started to wear the dress, the extra length being collected up to hang from
the waist; As she grew this was lowered to fit ; They were very stiff
voluminous and practically waterproof., in fact just the thing for wearing
at dawn on a windy and wet fishdock gutting and packing fish.  Over the top
was a large apron. They said that the originals were often handed down and
that there weres ome in a local museum (which I didnt  get the chance to
see)I  have not come across them since. or anything like them.
Do any members of the list know any more about this or any other instances
of workwear items becoming traditional. I can only think of Cornish smocks
and of course the Scottish woollens , all of which are associated with
fishing ; Any others.
Dave


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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
>
>Danielle also wears a light olive/oatmeal (the color on the office TV is
mesed up due to a lightning strike, so I could be wrong, lol) colored one
exactly like the blue one discussed, when she and the prince are with the
gypsies.
>Ever Yours,
>Ginnaphure
>
Oh!  She said blue and I got that stuck in my head.  I go back and look
again. I do remember her being undress for a long time during that fight...
:)
   The TV color this is really funny!  Do you want me to let you know what
color it really is, if it turns out to be different?
Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 12:19:07 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


->> from the pattern notes): "Due to the special nature of this product and
a
>> need to accomodate today's fabrics, seams have been added where they
would
>> not have been originally."
>
I laughed when I saw this...According to JA's:  Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe,
at that time period,  fabric was sometimes made in 18 or 22 inch wide
pieces.
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 14:13:01 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990919185158.75655.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 20:25:30 +0100
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

The width of cloth was limited by the width of the loom , so you could reach
either side for the shuttle. It was only with the introduction  a spring
arrangement at the end of a piece of string that made it possible to weave
wider cloth;
There are those with better memories on this list who can provide date and
more technical descriptions of this important breakthrough.(Flying Shuttle?)
And this is a request for them to do so as it driving me crazy trying to
remember.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
 > >-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
> >
> >Lonna wrote:
> > > If I remember correctly, fabrics weren't as wide as they are today
> >(Anybody out
> > >there willing to add their input on this?).
> >
> >They weren't. I don't remember the measurements exactly, but somewhere
> >around 20-30"  was normal, as I recall. Basically whatever your loom
> >allowed.
> >


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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Uniquely You
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 19:29:39 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Sun, 19 Sep 1999 13:42:07 -0500, the following was written in this
electric book by "Linda" <lindap@texas.net>:

>Does anyone know if Greenberg and Hammer has a web site?

They hve plans for a website, but do not have one yet. I seem to
recall being told that it would happen after the turn of the year.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 14:33:43 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo Cynthia

>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>
> > One big problem; it's way too long, unless you're about 5'8' or more, 
>and I
> > don't remember seeing a way to lengthen or shorten the pattern pieces
> > without turning it into a major operation
>
>If I recall from the pattern, it's basically two long panels with
>half-circle insets that make the skirt.  If you were to shorten the long
>panels appropriately, and add the half-circle "gores" so that they start
>falling from the waist, it should work fine.

I think I understand what you're saying. Basically one would add a point to 
the half circles so that they could be joined at the waist. Although, in my 
case, since my waist is something I'd rather downplay, I'd join the points 
at the hip and then adjust the length of everything accordingly. I drafted a 
pattern that was somewhat like this with a friend's help a few years back. 
It has a front panel and a back panel with a seamless 1/3 circle joined to 
the side front and back plus a another inserted into a slit in the CB. It 
doesn't have as much fabric though and the train is not quite as long.


> > from the pattern notes): "Due to the special nature of this product and 
>a
> > need to accomodate today's fabrics, seams have been added where they 
>would
> > not have been originally."
>
>Heh.  I agree with you -- this is a misrepresentation, at the least.  If
>you want to play with the flow of the skirt in a more accurate manner,
>instead of two half-circles on the sideseam, use two quarter circles on
>the sideseam, and slit the CF and CB and put half circles there.  That
>will distribute the skirts much more evenly.
>
Yeah, what you said. That's about what I did with the pattern I mentioned 
earlier, minus the CF panel.

Thanks for your input.

Lonna

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 15:10:30 1999
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From: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 16:22:12 -0400
Subject: H-COST: flying shuttle
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-Poster: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>

Greetings.
 Well, since I actually have some reference books still upstairs, 
(being filled with zeal after doing the Grand Encampment at 
Louisbourg this summer) I can tell you that one book mentions: 
"most successful of all attempts to accelerate the speed of hand 
weaving was the fly shuttle, which was patented in 1733 by John 
Kay, an English mechanic." However, and I'd have to find my 
photocopies to check, I believe that in the book on Danish Bronze 
Age Textiles, it mentions fabrics of 90inches. Of course, that may 
just be senility. I'll find it and check, and it doesn't really address 
what happened in between the Bronze Age and 1733.
 Vandy Simpson
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 15:25:24 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

We may be in agreement -- but just in case we are not:

> I think I understand what you're saying. Basically one would add a point to
> the half circles so that they could be joined at the waist.

The precise half circles (no additional cutting) which are sewn into the
straight/selvedge side seams either
1: are centered on the side seams, with the exact center of the circle
at the side seam and the straight edges are sewn to the body straight edges

or, in the modified version, 

2: the point of a quarter-circle goes at the side seam, and the straight
edges again are sewn to the front and back panels, then you cut a slit
from the bottom CF and CB for the other two quarters remaining.

Mind you, if I were to do this, I'd probably make each gore into two, so
that I could balance the bias directions.

--
It's nearly time for October Fools' Day -- the Southern Hemisphere
version of April Fools' Day.
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From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>


---


>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
I do remember her being undress for a long time during that fight...

Yeah it's the same stiffened and back-side laced one that they were talking about.

 Do you want me to let you know what
>color it really is, if it turns out to be different?

yeah that would be great, lol. We have a TV in the living room that is okay, we didn't have it at the time of the lightning. lol. I just am always in the office and never in the living rom at the time "Ever After" is on HBO.


Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 16:45:14 -0400
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From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Regarding Simplicity 8725

When this first came out I took a look at the pattern envelope and 
instructions.  I immediately noticed two major flaws with the pattern.

First, the cut.  While I would not proclaim myself an expert on costuming 
of this time period, I have done a lot of research.  I have never seen 
anything to suggest that gowns of this time period were ever cut in this 
manner.  Everything I've ever seen suggests a cut more along the lines of 
the greenland gown or princess-line cutting.  Putting aside the 
historical inaccuracy of the cut, it is just very poorly designed.  
Putting all the fullness of the skirt onto the sides will make the gown 
lie very flat across the center front (and center back), producing an 
unattractive effect.  Additionally, by using a right angle for the 
transition between torso and skirt as they've done is asking to have the 
garment come apart right at that corner.  Then in the torso, there isn't 
any shaping other than the curved side seams.  This might work for 
someone who is relatively flat chested, but not for a fuller bust.

Second, the presentation of the pattern.  I have to say I'm very 
displeased with Simplicity on this one.  Even putting aside the fact that 
they've deliberately photographed the gown on models chosen to disguise 
the flaws of the gown, and at camera angles also chosen to do so, I can't 
excuse one other thing they did.  If you look very carefully at the photo 
on the pattern envelope, you will see a bust dart in the gown they've 
shown.  This smacks of blatant false advertising to me.  They're trying 
to con you into thinking that if you follow their pattern you'll wind up 
with the gown shown.  Well, you won't, because that dart isn't included 
in the pattern.

All in all, it's not a bad pattern if what you want is a one-time costume 
for halloween or a party.  But for serious historical costuming... forget 
it.  You'd do better starting off with a cheerleader dress pattern.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 16:00:17 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Greenland gowns-offshoot
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 07:12:03 +1000
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Off hand, I can think of 1 item that is in the Snowshill Collection in the
UK that was probably passed down. (raids bookcase for book to check)

In the book "Costume in Detail 1730 -1930" by Nancy Bradford, she describes
(and has a colour photo of) a jacket that is rather interesting.

It is a yellow woven silk jacket made in about 1730-1750.  The silk probably
comes from 1715-20, and the author says that it looks like it is remnants
from making a dress, as there are a lot of seams and joins (and in the photo
you can see these).

The jacket looks like it had originally elbow length sleeves, and later on -
about 1770-80 - trimming and sleeves below the elbow were added.

In my family there is also a story about one of my female ancestors who
spent the whole voyage from England to Australia altering her dead mother's
crinoline gowns to bustle gowns so tht when she landed, she was wearing the
height of fashion! (and apparently this was one of the common shipboard
entertainments for ladies emigrating to the Colonies).

These were all very thrifty people and - especially if the fabric was very
very luxurious - I feel rather sure that they would have handed down
garments.  After all - fashion changed then over years rather than months as
it does now!

Regards,

Madilayn de Mer
(Megan McConnell)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 16:33:05 1999
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 22:41:45 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: H-COST: workwear becomes traditional
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

It kind of depends what you call workwear.  Until quite recently, the
_working_ classes had so little leisure time, I doubt they came home
from work and changed into other clothes for the evening.  In other
words, the clothes they wore all the time, except for Sunday best, were
their work wear.  Most traditional dress seems (when I see it, as a folk
dancer myself) to be based on the costume of the lower classes in the
19th century, those who didn't (couldn't) follow the international
fashion.  In most European countries, what you therefore get is peasant,
farming costume and there is a noticeable division between groups that
recreate "Sunday best" costumes and those that go for the basic out-all-
day-in-the-fields outfits. I think Britain's industrialisation and
urbanisation was so far ahead of other countries, perhaps that's why we
have no convincing folk costumes, except those associated with specific
trades which kept their "tribal" identity.

You've suddenly sparked a thought in my head - why is there no
traditional costume for miners?  Do the morris groups that black their
faces come from mining areas?  (It's supposedly a throwback to the
"moorish" origins of the dance, but we know how these age-old traditions
arise spontaneously from Victorian historians ;-) )  I wonder ...

Jean

 

>-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>Henk spoke about the passing down of dresses to later members of the family
>and it reminded me of something similar that I had come across. A few years
>ago a tourist event I saw a group of  dancers from the North East UK  ( rare
>in itself as the NW has much stronger dance traditions); They told me that
>there costume was based on the traditional costume of the regional
>fishwives. The skirts were very heavy and made from frilled lateral sections
>with enough length to fit people of around nine feet tall.. There were only
>ever made in full adult size. When a young girl was old enough to work she
>started to wear the dress, the extra length being collected up to hang from
>the waist; As she grew this was lowered to fit ; They were very stiff
>voluminous and practically waterproof., in fact just the thing for wearing
>at dawn on a windy and wet fishdock gutting and packing fish.  Over the top
>was a large apron. They said that the originals were often handed down and
>that there weres ome in a local museum (which I didnt  get the chance to
>see)I  have not come across them since. or anything like them.
>Do any members of the list know any more about this or any other instances
>of workwear items becoming traditional. I can only think of Cornish smocks
>and of course the Scottish woollens , all of which are associated with
>fishing ; Any others.
>Dave
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 16:34:26 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 21:48:15 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)


There has been a lot of *really*uncharitable* slamming of this pattern
in the past few days.

I recall that a few months ago a letter written by the woman who
designed this and the 'Shakespeare in Love' style pattern was posted
to the list with her permission. In it, she explained that she was
*unable* to get Simplicity to agree to a more accurate cut and method
for either of them than is given in each pattern. She described the
tug-of-war that she had to go thru just to get what we got.

Remember also that modern pattern manufacturers ALWAYS put in ease,
even if it is not intended in the fit of the garmetn as originally
designed. In that earlier discussion it was surmised that the
photo-stylist likely pinned in the dresses to fit the models as
closely as the original design sketch showed the fit to be.

You may not think that thses are up to exacting research/repro
standards, but think before you slam them. Are they not better than
many of the ones that came before? I think they are certainly a BIG
improvement over the hollywood-medieval flared-sack with fur trim that
most commercial mass market pattern companies gave us before.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 18:24:34 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabeth R
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

Deborah,
    Thank you so much for pointing out to me my misinformation reguarding 
Janet Arnold and Eliz R, as I was told that she (Janet Arnold) had some hand 
in the design of the clothing....I guess ruffs aren't considered part of the 
clothing.  I didn't know that BBC disbanded it's costume department, which 
makes me sad.  

Thank you very much,

Charles
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Men's Costuming
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/18/99 5:49:13 PM !!!First Boot!!!, 
FJPalmer@earthlink.net writes:

<< My sewing is pretty good.   I have made quite a few shirts and pants and 
tunics
 and a few Irishes and a couple Citons.   But what is a bastard Houppelande?  
I
 have heard of a Houppelande.  I could even get a pattern  But the other I am 
not
 sure.
 
 Maykn
 
 :o)
  >>

A Bastard houppelande is one that is or about ankle length, or so I have been 
taught and have read.  The great houppelandes were ones that not only drug 
the ground, but actually made a respectable puddle of fabric at the feet.  
You can witness these in many Italian portraits.  Riding houppelandes had to 
be shorter than even a bastard houppelande, and therefor were cut at the 
knees or perhaps a tad higher.  If you study portaits from the 12th-15th 
centuries you can see the evolution of this garment. 
     I don't know why they refered to the slightly shorter houppelande as a 
"bastard" houppelande, but then again why was a sword that was slightly 
shorter than a great sword called a "bastard" sword?  Im not up on etymology 
of the English language, but it would be fascinating to know why "bastard" 
was applied.

Chas
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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <v01520d05b4086522234b@[205.217.218.45]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabeth R
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 23:08:46 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

Uninteresting fact #1
some of the BBC costume types now work for the hire wardrobe of the Royal
Shakespeare Company in Stratford, maybe that's why so much of thier kit is
soooo fab
emma
----- Original Message -----
From: Deborah Pulliam <pulliam@acadia.net>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 11:55 PM
Subject: H-COST: Elizabeth R


>
> -Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
>
> <<Elizabethan movies of all time
> IMHO.  That stands to reason as both Jean Hunniset and Janet Arnold had a
> hand in the designing of the clothing.  >>
>
> Janet did not design clothing for Elizabeth R, and she was always very
> careful to point that out to people. She helped make the ruffs, which was
> pretty much a lost art at the time of the filming.
>
> <<for the fact that BBC at least will go the extra
> mile and do the serious research required for the clothing of the time.>>
>
> Unfortunately, it is a long time ago that ER and Six Wives were made, and
> times have changed considerably. Not the least in that BBC disbanded its
> costume department several years ago.
>
>
> De borah
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909192028.QAA10405@hurontario.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: flying shuttle
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 23:46:38 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Thank you Vandy;
Would not the Bronze Age width be possible because it was a simple vertical
loom, so the operator stood up and could walk any distance while weaving. A
horizontal Loom needs the feet to operate levers so the operator must be
seated; which restricts the reach;
As far as I remember anyway.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
 > -Poster: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>
>
> Greetings.
>  Well, since I actually have some reference books still upstairs,
> (being filled with zeal after doing the Grand Encampment at
> Louisbourg this summer) I can tell you that one book mentions:
> "most successful of all attempts to accelerate the speed of hand
> weaving was the fly shuttle, which was patented in 1733 by John
> Kay, an English mechanic." However, and I'd have to find my
> photocopies to check, I believe that in the book on Danish Bronze
> Age Textiles, it mentions fabrics of 90inches. Of course, that may
> just be senility. I'll find it and check, and it doesn't really address
> what happened in between the Bronze Age and 1733.
>  Vandy Simpson
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <uY$JDBAZiV53Iwhl@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: workwear becomes traditional
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 00:09:36 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 ----- Original Message -----

>
> -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
 > You've suddenly sparked a thought in my head - why is there no
> traditional costume for miners?  Do the morris groups that black their
> faces come from mining areas?  (It's supposedly a throwback to the
> "moorish" origins of the dance, but we know how these age-old traditions
> arise spontaneously from Victorian historians ;-) )  I wonder ...
>
> Jean
>
Now theres a point. Musing ---The strongest regular Morris tradition come
from very rural areas, Oxfordshire Cotswolds etc.so I suppose that' s
because they have come down from the Old Horse societies , sort of masonic
for people working with horses.
The Clog Morris tends to come from the NW and is mainly industrial based.
Another variant is seen in the only remaining team;; Brittania Cocunutters
who have always blacked there faces and is purported to have its origins in
the soldiers returning from the Zulu Wars. as can be seen from the costumes)
Some morris teams only started blacking up all of the time within living
memory.
As most of these traditions are really ameans of organised begging ,to make
extra money for holidays or beer, I supppose there was an element of
disguise that made it useful;
I can think of no area that has any form of troupe dancing tradition as well
as mining activities; Mining areas seem to usually support brass bands, I
think it was good exercise to clear congested lungs.. Have been a miner for
short period many moons ago I can swear that when I got home I had no desire
to go out and do any form of dancing;
Because of lack of interest  Morris and the Traditional Hero Combat Play or
Mumming are fast being combined these days , where as I can remember when
thety were quite distinct, albeit having a common Dionysian root. The Moor
in the mumming play is more likely an influence than moors proper, in a more
direct manner. But the whole thing is ever changing and hard to tie down.
We now have many combined male/female dancing team whereas I can remember
turning out to Fool for a ladies team and causing great anguish. Te sexes
were very much separtated for many years. My partner , a singer , has in her
repertoire a very sad song ; Its about the women stepping out to do the
dancing , because all of the young men lay dead in France; Again its a lack
of support that alters things.
I think many of the tradition in these areas are a lot later than Victorian
and many very recent.
Dave >


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 19:48:43 1999
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Message-ID: <de2325fc.2516e090@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 20:57:52 EDT
Subject: H-COST: 14th century Dress 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Elysant@aol.com

-Poster: <Elysant@aol.com> 

Irene leNoir wrote:

<<Regarding Simplicity 8725

When this first came out I took a look at the pattern envelope and 
instructions.  I immediately noticed two major flaws with the pattern.

First, the cut.  While I would not proclaim myself an expert on costuming 
of this time period, I have done a lot of research.  I have never seen 
anything to suggest that gowns of this time period were ever cut in this 
manner.  Everything I've ever seen suggests a cut more along the lines of 
the greenland gown or princess-line cutting.  Putting aside the 
historical inaccuracy of the cut, it is just very poorly designed.  

(snip)

All in all, it's not a bad pattern if what you want is a one-time costume 
for halloween or a party.  But for serious historical costuming... forget 
it.  You'd do better starting off with a cheerleader dress pattern.>>

Greetings milady and members of the list :-)
 
I would very much like to make a 14th century dress (French or Anglo Norman) 
for an event I'm attending next month.  I have not made anything from so late 
a period before (I'm usually 11 - 12th century) so I'm out of my depth here 
as to what would be appropriate (style as well as choice of fabric).  I saw 
this thread and thought perhaps the Simplicity pattern might be a good basis 
for the project (I haven't seen the pattern yet).

>From the discussion here, however, it seems that Simplicity 8725 would not be 
too accurate whether you use half or quarter circles, or add extra gores to 
the center front or back. :-(   I have a princess line pattern, and if that 
would be more accurate, how would I adapt that to be as authentic as I could 
be for what I want? 

I have a few additional questions if I may. :-)

Is what we're aiming for a cotehardie?  What is a greenland gown?  What 
fabrics would I use, and finally, what would make a cheerleader dress so 
suitable (or was that a humorous comment)? :-)

Elysant de Holtham
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentary was: Ever After
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 18:06:26 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>
> Do you want me to let you know what
>>color it really is, if it turns out to be different?
>
>yeah that would be great, lol. We have a TV in the living room that is
okay, we didn't have it at the time of the lightning. lol. I just am always
in the office and never in the living rom at the time "Ever After" is on
HBO.
>
>
>Ever Yours,
>Ginnaphure
It is oatmeal.  It looked like it could possibly be oatmeal or  pale olive?
Does that mean that all the white peoples faces look green too?  :)  That
could be nauseating...
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 21:06:53 1999
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 22:18:55 -0400
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: tatting
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>



> 
> What citations does the author of your book give for her assertion that
> needle tatting preceeded shuttle tatting? I have always assumed (dangerous,
> I know <g>) that tatting developed from knotting, a popular craft in the
> 17th & 18th centuries. Knotting used a larger, open-ended shuttle. The "fly
> fringe" in the 18th century was apparently a patterned knotting (does anyone
> have a reference to instructions for doing this?). I have only seen
> references to tatting shuttles, not to tatting needles.
> 

I can't add specific references, but I took a shuttle tatting class from
someone at the first Spirit of Cross Stitch at Valley Forge.  She, her
daughter and the friend who was helping her teach the class collected
antique tatting shuttles and needles, and they had done some research. 
There were definite references (pictoral and written) that the daughter
had included in her book on beginning tatting (I *wish* I could remember
the name...I still want to buy the book as I remember it explained
things very well) to the fact that needle tatting came first.  One of
the probable explainations for the popularity and visibility of shuttle
tatting taking off is that the shuttle is a considerably larger
tool...therefore it can show off the wealth of the user better. 
Apparently once the upper classes took up tatting, having the latest, or
the best decorated shuttle became a status thing (and you can only do so
much on the space that a tatting needle/hook takes).  One of the reasons
there are portraits that were done with ladies displaying their shuttles
prominently.


Maybe this will sound familiar to someone who can help add to it? (Oh,
and the book not only explained how to do the various necessary shuttle
moves well, but it gave the descriptions for the given patterns both in
a written form and in a clear pictoral graph as well as a photo of a
sample.)

-Elisabeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 21:17:58 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <de2325fc.2516e090@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress 
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 21:27:49 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

Please remember folks that fabrics were not created in the widths that they
are today. The reason for the strange shapes of period clothes is because of
the width that a loom could make in that time period or the shape the fabric
came to the person sewing the garment.

The best example I can give from first hand knowledge is my grandmother. She
made quilts for a living and she made them from the fabrics that were given
to her. Most of the time they were dresses or sacks of cloth from flour or a
very narrow sheet of fabric.

So if they had the widths of fabric that we can get today you can bet the
layout of the patterns would be vastly different.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide

----- Original Message -----
From: <Elysant@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 1999 7:57 PM
Subject: H-COST: 14th century Dress


:
: -Poster: Elysant@aol.com
:
: -Poster: <Elysant@aol.com>
:
: Irene leNoir wrote:
:
: <<Regarding Simplicity 8725
:
: When this first came out I took a look at the pattern envelope and
: instructions.  I immediately noticed two major flaws with the pattern.
:
: First, the cut.  While I would not proclaim myself an expert on costuming
: of this time period, I have done a lot of research.  I have never seen
: anything to suggest that gowns of this time period were ever cut in this
: manner.  Everything I've ever seen suggests a cut more along the lines of
: the greenland gown or princess-line cutting.  Putting aside the
: historical inaccuracy of the cut, it is just very poorly designed.
:
: (snip)
:
: All in all, it's not a bad pattern if what you want is a one-time costume
: for halloween or a party.  But for serious historical costuming... forget
: it.  You'd do better starting off with a cheerleader dress pattern.>>
:
: Greetings milady and members of the list :-)
:
: I would very much like to make a 14th century dress (French or Anglo
Norman)
: for an event I'm attending next month.  I have not made anything from so
late
: a period before (I'm usually 11 - 12th century) so I'm out of my depth
here
: as to what would be appropriate (style as well as choice of fabric).  I
saw
: this thread and thought perhaps the Simplicity pattern might be a good
basis
: for the project (I haven't seen the pattern yet).
:
: >From the discussion here, however, it seems that Simplicity 8725 would
not be
: too accurate whether you use half or quarter circles, or add extra gores
to
: the center front or back. :-(   I have a princess line pattern, and if
that
: would be more accurate, how would I adapt that to be as authentic as I
could
: be for what I want?
:
: I have a few additional questions if I may. :-)
:
: Is what we're aiming for a cotehardie?  What is a greenland gown?  What
: fabrics would I use, and finally, what would make a cheerleader dress so
: suitable (or was that a humorous comment)? :-)
:
: Elysant de

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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

According to JA's:  Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe,
>at that time period,  fabric was sometimes made in 18 or 22 inch wide
>pieces.
>

And still is, expecially specialty fabrics such as handwoven silks.  Kimono
fabrics are still made 14" wide. 

However, the idea that fabrics were only available in narrow widths is
false.  Wasn't  "Broadcloth" was called that because it was woven on a very
wide loom?  I believe I've read that  60 inches or more was not uncommon.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 21:46:00 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Franchesca Havas wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
> 
> Please remember folks that fabrics were not created in the widths that they
> are today. The reason for the strange shapes of period clothes is because of
> the width that a loom could make in that time period or the shape the 

Hand-woven Harris Tweeds are still only 28" wide.
Many of the Chinese brocades available are only 30"
(don't know that they're handwoven, tho')

And of course, kimono fabrics, are 14" wide to this very day!

Susan

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 22:03:08 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 20:16:39 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Exactly. Sometimes I have trouble using the right words in order to get my 
point across. :-) I'm much better with visual communication. Unfortunately 
this can't really be accomplished online unless one has special equipment. 
Thank you for helping with the translation.

Lonna


>From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
>Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 16:39:49 -0400
>
>
>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>We may be in agreement -- but just in case we are not:
>
> > I think I understand what you're saying. Basically one would add a point 
>to
> > the half circles so that they could be joined at the waist.
>
>The precise half circles (no additional cutting) which are sewn into the
>straight/selvedge side seams either
>1: are centered on the side seams, with the exact center of the circle
>at the side seam and the straight edges are sewn to the body straight edges
>
>or, in the modified version,
>
>2: the point of a quarter-circle goes at the side seam, and the straight
>edges again are sewn to the front and back panels, then you cut a slit
>from the bottom CF and CB for the other two quarters remaining.
>
>Mind you, if I were to do this, I'd probably make each gore into two, so
>that I could balance the bias directions.
>
>--
>It's nearly time for October Fools' Day -- the Southern Hemisphere
>version of April Fools' Day.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 19 23:18:53 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: My apologies/Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 21:29:27 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo all

My apologies if I have offended anyone. I truly did not mean to start a 
bashing session. I was just mentioning the problems that I had run into when 
I used the pattern. I like the pattern. It has alot of possibilities, but it 
does need some adjustment for people who are short and who are more 
well-endowed. Also, even though I've been sewing for about 40 years, I'm 
still a novice in pattern drafting. This is why I asked the questions I did 
on adaptation as well as on layout, cut, and fabric width.

And, yes, it is a large step in the right direction for a more authentic 
look. I had a feeling that Simplicty was the one that was dragging its heels 
and that the designer, was not at fault; which is why my remarks were 
directed towards the corporation, not the human being involved. I wish she 
had had more control over her design. However, I am also very thankful for 
what she was able to get Simplicity to agree to. At least there's a 
foundation for newby pattern-drafters like me to build on so that we can 
adapt the pattern more to our needs without starting from scratch.

Unfortunately, since I'm new here, I missed her posting from a few months 
back. Does anyone still have a copy that they are willing to forward to my 
private e-mail? I would dearly like to read it.


Again, my apologies for any offense that I may have caused.

Lonna


>From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
>Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 21:48:15 GMT
>
>
>-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
>
>
>There has been a lot of *really*uncharitable* slamming of this pattern
>in the past few days.
>
>I recall that a few months ago a letter written by the woman who
>designed this and the 'Shakespeare in Love' style pattern was posted
>to the list with her permission. In it, she explained that she was
>*unable* to get Simplicity to agree to a more accurate cut and method
>for either of them than is given in each pattern. She described the
>tug-of-war that she had to go thru just to get what we got.
>
>Remember also that modern pattern manufacturers ALWAYS put in ease,
>even if it is not intended in the fit of the garmetn as originally
>designed. In that earlier discussion it was surmised that the
>photo-stylist likely pinned in the dresses to fit the models as
>closely as the original design sketch showed the fit to be.
>
>You may not think that thses are up to exacting research/repro
>standards, but think before you slam them. Are they not better than
>many of the ones that came before? I think they are certainly a BIG
>improvement over the hollywood-medieval flared-sack with fur trim that
>most commercial mass market pattern companies gave us before.
>
>Margery
>"Do you have any files?"
>"We're the government, of course we have files."
>Millenium
>{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 00:03:52 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>>
> Not much more than you, and certainly less than Marc and Robin.

I don't know about that.  I try to restrict myself to only discussing
those garments we actually have physical examples of.  What the
pictures show or don't show is pretty much beyond my expertise.
 
>Apart from the use of buttons, these costumes don't look typically >14th c. The width of them and the use of narrow gores is more 13th c 
>and earlier than 13th c. It may be, though, that in circles of farmers 
>and small craftsmen the 13th c manners of garment making kept going 
>strong, especailly in out of the way places with no access to fashion 
>statements by the nobility or rich merchant class...

I'm not sure I agree with that.  Certainly the 14th century is a
period (like the 20th century) of stylistic changes, but the use of
gores/side panels and such seems pretty normal.

If we look at the Bocksten cote (c.1350), the Moy gown (my guess is
mid to late 1300s based on the Pourpoint of Charles of Blois (Before
1364)), the Uppsala gown (c1403-1439), Moselund cote (mid-late 14th
c), Ronbjerg cote (mid-late 14th c), and the reconstruction of St.
Birgitta's dress (c1330s), the garments from Herjolfnes are not
atypical.

The Moy gown, for example, which has shoulders and sleeve construction
similar to the Blois garment, appears to have at least one long thin
gore/side panel (and perhaps two, since the smaller side "gore" looks
like it could have been a continuation of an underarm "dart" that
might have been altered) similar to the grouped panels on the H38/41. 
It also has matched rear (and presumably balancing front) "gores".

The Uppsala gown has no gores, but clearly the loom used to make the
material was considerably wider than that used in the earlier gowns. 
It retains the rather full skirt coming off a fairly fitted bodice.

The Bocksten cote, if the hypothesis that it was worn by a royal
representative who is known to have dissapeared in the 1360s is
correct, would be an example of an everyday garment worn by an
upperclass individual.

Since the last (documented) contact with the Greenland community was
in about 1409, that pretty much is a stylistic end date for influence
from the continent.  The merchant group that visited at that time were
regular travelers to and from the Royal court in Norway, so it may be
assumed that their clothes were fairly current stylistically.

> So what do you think, Marc?

I think that, based on other examples of isolated communities (for
example, settlers in the American West), the desire to maintain a
feeling of continuity of identity with "Civilization" can be quite
strong, and one way of doing this is in dress style.  So, while they 
may have had their own way of doing things (e.g. false seams rather
than always using separate pieces) as a general thing, they can be
used as a marker for what styles were current  - at least in
Scandinavia.

Now, it may be that there were some areas where the Scandinavians were
"behind the times" as compared with, say, France or Germany, but
that's really beyond my current knowledge to say.

marc
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 00:12:52 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<Elysant@aol.com>
>...What is a greenland gown? What  fabrics would I use...

A "Greenland Dress" usually refers to a dress found in the large dig
in a cemetary in Herjolfsnes on the southern tip of Greenland.  Most
often this is used to refer to the basic design of two (or three) of
them, nos. 38 (39) and 41, with two waist high "gores" in front, and
two more in back, and 4 gores/side panels on each side that reach to
the arm hole.  It is the shaped form of these garments which are often
likened to the "princess line" style.

Marc
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 22:25:08 -0700
From: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
Organization: Well, I wouldn't call it organized......
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-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>

Jennifer Arnott wrote:

> The overdress is one of those "Shoulder straps" and a sort of
> half-bodice
> and split skirt. It laces with .. oh, 5 or 6 grommets below the
> breasts,
> but there's no fabric in the over dress above the breasts. It's meant
> to be
> worn over a chemise and/or underdress. The fabric is a deep rust
> colored
> brocade, mid-weight.
>

Okay, I will give this one a shot......

Firstly, The garment sounds more Middle Eastern or Irish in appearance.
Early Italian Renn has usually a solid, softly rounded bodice piece that
either laces on the side or in the back.  The necklines on these are
usually up to about 2-3 inches below your collarbone.  The bodice
*definitely* covers the breast area.  I could go on but I will spare you
the full details unless you still want them in which case you are
welcome to contact me privately.  I would be happy to forward some
online portrait URL's to show you the styles.

I would recommend that you use it as a Middle Eastern style garment and
buy/make some harem pants and get a harem shirt to wear with it.  Then,
of course, all the silver jewelry you can stand ;~>

Diana :~>
(the non-famous lurker who knows a bit about Italian Renn)

--

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
"There are too many mediocre things in life to deal with.....Love
shouldn't be one
 of them."
--Ione Skye in "Dream for an Insomniac"


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 00:23:20 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Questions?/Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 22:37:21 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo

Sorry to interrupt your correspondence, but this is something that I am very 
interested in and I would like to learn more. Are there any pictures of 
these cotes? Or any exhibits that are open to the public? Can you suggest 
some books that I might read? I know I'm asking a lot of questions, but this 
is how I learn. :-)

Any information given would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Lonna


>From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
>Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 00:03:52 -0500
>
>
>-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
><"Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>>
> > Not much more than you, and certainly less than Marc and Robin.
>
>I don't know about that.  I try to restrict myself to only discussing
>those garments we actually have physical examples of.  What the
>pictures show or don't show is pretty much beyond my expertise.
>
> >Apart from the use of buttons, these costumes don't look typically >14th 
>c. The width of them and the use of narrow gores is more 13th c
> >and earlier than 13th c. It may be, though, that in circles of farmers
> >and small craftsmen the 13th c manners of garment making kept going
> >strong, especailly in out of the way places with no access to fashion
> >statements by the nobility or rich merchant class...
>
>I'm not sure I agree with that.  Certainly the 14th century is a
>period (like the 20th century) of stylistic changes, but the use of
>gores/side panels and such seems pretty normal.
>
>If we look at the Bocksten cote (c.1350), the Moy gown (my guess is
>mid to late 1300s based on the Pourpoint of Charles of Blois (Before
>1364)), the Uppsala gown (c1403-1439), Moselund cote (mid-late 14th
>c), Ronbjerg cote (mid-late 14th c), and the reconstruction of St.
>Birgitta's dress (c1330s), the garments from Herjolfnes are not
>atypical.
>
>The Moy gown, for example, which has shoulders and sleeve construction
>similar to the Blois garment, appears to have at least one long thin
>gore/side panel (and perhaps two, since the smaller side "gore" looks
>like it could have been a continuation of an underarm "dart" that
>might have been altered) similar to the grouped panels on the H38/41.
>It also has matched rear (and presumably balancing front) "gores".
>
>The Uppsala gown has no gores, but clearly the loom used to make the
>material was considerably wider than that used in the earlier gowns.
>It retains the rather full skirt coming off a fairly fitted bodice.
>
>The Bocksten cote, if the hypothesis that it was worn by a royal
>representative who is known to have dissapeared in the 1360s is
>correct, would be an example of an everyday garment worn by an
>upperclass individual.
>
>Since the last (documented) contact with the Greenland community was
>in about 1409, that pretty much is a stylistic end date for influence
>from the continent.  The merchant group that visited at that time were
>regular travelers to and from the Royal court in Norway, so it may be
>assumed that their clothes were fairly current stylistically.
>
> > So what do you think, Marc?
>
>I think that, based on other examples of isolated communities (for
>example, settlers in the American West), the desire to maintain a
>feeling of continuity of identity with "Civilization" can be quite
>strong, and one way of doing this is in dress style.  So, while they
>may have had their own way of doing things (e.g. false seams rather
>than always using separate pieces) as a general thing, they can be
>used as a marker for what styles were current  - at least in
>Scandinavia.
>
>Now, it may be that there were some areas where the Scandinavians were
>"behind the times" as compared with, say, France or Germany, but
>that's really beyond my current knowledge to say.
>
>marc
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 01:28:38 1999
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From: "Lecelina O'Brian Of Mount Shannon" <lecelina@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Modification of pseudo-Italian-Ren
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 23:40:14 PDT
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-Poster: "Lecelina O'Brian Of Mount Shannon" <lecelina@hotmail.com>

Diana,

Is that offer open to anyone?  I like the style I have the simplicity 
patterns trying to do the best I can to  make it  some what close to period, 
any help is appreciated.

Lady Lecelina

****** I would be happy to forward some
online portrait URL's to show you the styles.*****


Diana :~>
(the non-famous lurker who knows a bit about Italian Renn)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 03:29:29 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 01:44:42 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I was doing some browsing and came across the following book. Would someone
who has knowledge of it be willing to give a review?

 Dress in the Middle Ages
 Francoise Piponnier  Perrine Mane  Caroline Beamish (Translator)
 Format: Hardcover, 167pp.
 ISBN: 0300069065
 Publisher: Yale University Press
 Pub. Date: December 1997

Thank you,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 07:33:42 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair color
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com

In a message dated 9/17/99 9:47:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lilinah@grin.net 
writes:

<< Henna is powdered leaves (and stems?) which looks medium green powder. You
 mix it with hot water, and it starts to turn red-brown.  >>

Actually the color it turns depends on the color of henna you use.  If you 
use neutral or golden henna it stays a grey-green.  It is a very messy 
process.  It's a little less messy and a little more effective to put a 
plastic shower cap over your head once its coated with the henna mud.  I  
find the golden henna brightens my hair as well as giving me a lot more 
strength, body and thickness. The golden henna I use is mixed with marigolds 
which, like camomile, have been used for a long time for a blond coloring.

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 07:34:58 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: shuttles
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<< One of the reasons there are portraits that were done with ladies
displaying their shuttles prominently.>>

Once again, the prominently displayed shuttles in 18c portraits are all
*knotting* shuttles, which are not the same as tatting shuttles.



Deb orah


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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Millenium Clarification
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 06:19:28 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 22:44
Subject: Re: BP (was H-COST: Canadian Iceman update - OT)


>
>-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>

>
>Um, no its not.  Jan1, 2000 is the beginning of the new millenium, but this
>is way too off topic for this list...  Anyone curious needs to review some
>graphs and mathmatics...
>
>Julie Adams


the first day of the new millenium is Jan 1, 2001. We're in the 20th
Century,  but the year is 1999, right? That's because when the current
calender was formulated,  they started at the 1st century AD, but didn't
start at year 101. They started at year 1. Therefore, the centuries are one
ahead of the years, and end on the 00's (has to to have a full 100 years in
it). It went 1-100. then 101-200 ad nauseam. But the centuries went 1st cent
(1-100), 2nd (101-200) and so on. It didn't start on year zero as is the
common theory, it's just that to get the centuries lined up, they would have
had to add a 100 to the year to match. People tend to start on 1, not zero.
(Think about how you count things. If you have 15 apples you don't start
with zero apples, one apple.... you start on 1. Same with years.)

Sorry if this sounds oversimplified (its not really, just worder simply).
This is how I had to explain it to my sister's Honors history class last
year.

Anya

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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Okay, you had the magical words "drafting your own
patterns"... I will have to pick this up... thanks
Fran!

Sarah


> 
> The web site can probably explain that, at least for
> starters . . .
> 
> http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
> 
> Fran
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
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Subject: H-COST: How white was white?
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 06:20:17 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

I was told recently that 16th century chemise could not possibly have been
white because there was no such thing as bleach.    All my sources refer to
the material used as being various shades of white or neutral.  So what do
you all think?  How white could a cotton or silk chemise be?

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Subject: Re: H-COST: How white was white?
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/20/99 7:27:04 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
deanq@paloverde.com writes:

<< How white could a cotton or silk chemise be? >>
 I wonder if they used fuller's earth like the Romans did on their togas. But 
I don't know.  Cheryl
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Subject: Re: H-COST: How white was white?
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


White linens weren't "optic white", that's true, but they were quite
bright.  They may not have had bleach as we know it, but several
substances which functioned as bleaching products were known in the 16th
century. For myself, I choose whites on the "warm" side of the
spectrum--leaning towards the creams--rather than those with bluish tinges
for my coifs, shifts, etc.

Drea


 On Mon, 20 Sep 1999, Dean Quackenbush wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
> 
> I was told recently that 16th century chemise could not possibly have been
> white because there was no such thing as bleach.    All my sources refer to
> the material used as being various shades of white or neutral.  So what do
> you all think?  How white could a cotton or silk chemise be?
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Silk can naturally get to a creamy color, I believe, and if you
sun-bleached it, you might well get white.

And although they may not have had chlorine bleach, there may be other
bleaching agents available.

cv
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 16:29:26 +0200
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From: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
Subject: Re: H-COST: workwear becomes traditional
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-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>

>- -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
>It kind of depends what you call workwear.  Until quite recently, the
>_working_ classes had so little leisure time, I doubt they came home
>from work and changed into other clothes for the evening.  In other
>words, the clothes they wore all the time, except for Sunday best, were
>their work wear.  Most traditional dress seems (when I see it, as a folk
>dancer myself) to be based on the costume of the lower classes in the
>19th century, those who didn't (couldn't) follow the international
>fashion.  In most European countries, what you therefore get is peasant,
>farming costume and there is a noticeable division between groups that
>recreate "Sunday best" costumes and those that go for the basic out-all-
>day-in-the-fields outfits. I think Britain's industrialisation and
>urbanisation was so far ahead of other countries, perhaps that's why we
>have no convincing folk costumes, except those associated with specific
>trades which kept their "tribal" identity.

According to the short history of Bavarian folk costume (Tracht, in German)
I found in a living history museum last week:

The basic form of both work and "Sunday best" costume of the lower classes
developed as always: The lower classes copying the higher ones... as soon
as they were allowed to. That's why Bavarian knee-length Lederhosen (after
1789 French revolution) resemble culottes, the knee-length pants of the
French (and other) nobility.

Then came the 19th century and industrialization and as a backlash the
romantic movement, and urban middle class people went to the country to
find an "original" "true" folk style, in search of "nature" and sometimes a
local/national identity. That's how the "Sunday best" costumes became much
more ornate and elaborate, and during the course of the century, more and
more fixed in one state, erroneously assuming that it had "always been so".
Folk costume became something to show off and to show your identity with.
Early industrialisation and urbanisation both expelled folk costume (as
everyday work wear) and created it (in a counter-reaction as a special
rural holiday dress with local tradition).

Bavaria has a proud tradition of folk costume, the area where I live
(Berlin, Germany) has hardly any, except in the remote Sorbic (slavic)
areas. This may have to do with (lack of) urbanization. But folk costume in
the way we know it now is not very old and does not precede
industrialization -- it was created during the late 18th and all through
the 19th century, maybe in opposition to urban fashion development.

>You've suddenly sparked a thought in my head - why is there no
>traditional costume for miners?  

There isn't? Here, even today, our mining students who are in the mining
fraternity  take their oral exams wearing "Bergkittel", a special
traditional miner's kind of frock. These frocks differ by region. In their
fraternity house they have a series of pictures of miners showing the
different costumes in different times (and regions). (In Germany.)

Barbara Maren
--
Barbara Maren Winkler                         barbara@math.tu-berlin.de

  
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 09:49:45 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: Questions?/Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>>
>Sorry to interrupt your correspondence, but this is something that I am very 
>interested in and I would like to learn more. Are there any pictures of 
>these cotes? Or any exhibits that are open to the public? Can you suggest 
>some books that I might read? I know I'm asking a lot of questions, but this 
>is how I learn. :-)
>
>Any information given would be greatly appreciated.

Certainly.  All the information I currently have, including sources, and so
forth are at
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/bockhome.html.
This changes as I learn more.

Marc
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 10:40:22 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re:simplicity and 14th-century dress
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I have the Simplicity pattern because I like the sleeve. (No matter how many 
times I've tried, I've never been able to draft a sleeve with a center back 
seam that looks decent or works right. It doesn's seem that that should be a 
problem, but for me it is.) I have to modify that pattern too, because it is 
extremely tight -- obviously not meant to be worn over a shift with sleeves, 
as I wear my gowns. The body is the right shape but not the authentic 
construction.

Anyway, this is how I make a 14th-century fitted dress. I do not use princess 
seams because I hate sewing and that is way too many seams. I use a 
four-piece pattern I made myself long ago by (this was in the SCA "Known 
World Handbook") putting a fitted shirt and a pair of jeans on a piece of 
paper and tracing them. Cut a little flare into the skirt, don't make it 
completely straight on the sides. You get the shoulder position and basic 
waist. Then, you cut a muslin really big. Then you fiddle with it by sewing 
the shoulders and side seams until it fits and you can still get it over your 
head. This is good for a shift pattern or camping clothes.

THEN, you make a paper pattern of this. Mark where your hip line is. Cut all 
four panels out of the fabric you plan to use. It will look tiny. CUT IT 
BIGGER than the pattern. I usually cut 2 inch seam allowances, figuring that 
will take care of the way most fabrics drape and sew up. Start pinning, and 
then basting. Don't sew any lower down than your hips. Get the back and the 
sides right, and pin the front closed. Then open the side seam and work on 
the front seam. For my figure (hourglass), I've found that sewing the front 
seam and having a side closure works much better than a front closure. If you 
have any bust at all, interline or line the front down to your hips.

Do all this with a t-shirt on (or the actual shift) so that it isn't skin 
tight. You have to have a shift for the thing to look right, in my opinion. 
Unless you have a small bust and don't have to worry about it, pay special 
attention to the bust. If it sags, you've just lost the look. If you have a 
really big bust, you'll probably need princess seams after all. I also add a 
plain old band of fabric to the inside dress front, sewed into the underarms. 
Sort of a medieval Wonderbra. I heard a SCA person explain it a long time ago 
but I've never seen how it was done, I just worked it out for myself. It 
works!

When you've got it fit right, make gores to go in all four seams: front, 
back, and sides. You get to do some geometry here. Simply make the gores as 
wide as you can. Cut them out this way (sorry, can't do ASCII art): Measure 
the length of the gore you need from hip to floor. Draw two rectangles on 
your folded fabric, each that length plus your personal favorite seam 
allowance. Make a diagonal line through each rectangle. That gives you four 
triangles. Using a string or straight edge, make a curve from the sides of 
each rectangle to the diagonal line. Ta da, you have four gores. Two should 
be on the fold line, and two will need a center seam.

There you have it: a fitted gown with a huge skirt. Of course, you still have 
to do the arms, my personal bane. And if you want another fitted gown on top 
of that one, a perfectly authentic thing to do, you have to do the same thing 
with even bigger seam allowances, tried on over the undergown. Good luck!

Gail Finke
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Subject: Re: H-COST: How white was white?
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

How early are the bleaching fields so prevalent in the 18th century for 
bleaching linens "white white"?

Sally 

Costume Calendar Series
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:37:15 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> It is oatmeal.  It looked like it could possibly be oatmeal or  pale olive?
> Does that mean that all the white peoples faces look green too?  :)  That
> could be nauseating...

Regarding the dress she is wearing during the Prince's Fight.  The dress she
*was* wearing before she climbed the tree is a pale blue brocade.  What she is
wearing during the fight is her underwear, chemise.  With a stiffened
underbodice.  And it is an unbleached linen color.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 10:32:48 1999
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From: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>
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To: historic costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: width of cloth
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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

- -Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

The width of cloth was limited by the width of the loom , so you could reach
either side for the shuttle. It was only with the introduction  a spring
arrangement at the end of a piece of string that made it possible to weave
wider cloth;


Sorry, but this isn't entirely accurate.  The introduction of the two-man
horizontal loom in the thirteenth century made possible the weaving of
"broadcloth."  According to John Munro, even before the introduction of the
horizontal loom--probably in the eleventh century in Northern Europe--there
were two-person warp-weighted looms, which were producing cloth of roughly 2
yards in width.  The broadloom produced cloths of 2 to 3 yards in width. 
Standard width in medieval Flanders was 3.5 ells, which is roughly 2.75
yards--finished and fulled, a standard late Flemish luxury broadcloth would be
about 21 yards long by 1.8 yards wide.   

This is all from the John Munro article on "Textile Technology in the Middle
Ages" which I mentioned in an earlier post (from *The Dictionary of the Middle
Ages,* ed. Joseph Strayer, in the "Scandinavian Languages to Textiles" volume.


Lauri
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 10:33:41 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 11:47:43 -0400
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: How white was white?
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<I was told recently that 16th century chemise could not possibly have been
white because there was no such thing as bleach. >>

This doesn't follow. They may not have had chlorine bleach, but chlorine
bleach isn't the only way to whiten things.

Linen in particular whitens fairly easily just by drying in the sun.

There's no doubt they had plenty of white linen and white silk.


Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 10:37:33 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:55:03 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: My apologies/Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, 
 #8725
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>

> Unfortunately, since I'm new here, I missed her posting from a few months
> back. Does anyone still have a copy that they are willing to forward to my
> private e-mail? I would dearly like to read it.
> Again, my apologies for any offense that I may have caused.

Dear lady, simply bringing up a topic or asking a question does not make you
responsible for the comments of others.  Thank you for your apology but you do
not owe one in my estimation.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Shift query
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 12:46:14 -0400
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-Poster: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF0366.1FD0FA40
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I just went to the Ingres exhibit at the Costume Institute of the =
Metropolitan. What a pretty show!  Two whole cases were devoted to =
mid-nineteenth century underwear - super,  since I'm in the process of =
making a set. I highly recommend this show, called something like =
"Ingres in Fashion," to anyone who happens in be in New York. Have you =
seen the book by Aileen Riberio?

Anyway - I have a question about the mid nineteenth century shift.  Most =
of the examples I've seen have a reinforcement around the underarm.  =
It's about 2" wide and made of the same fabric as the shift.  What's =
this for?  Is it to keep the corset from wearing through?  The sleeve =
and its gusset would take care of the perspiration absorption problem, =
right?  This reinforcement piece seems too large just to strengthen the =
point of the gusset. Can anyone explain this to me?

Thanks

Martha K

------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF0366.1FD0FA40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I just went to the Ingres exhibit at =
the Costume=20
Institute of the Metropolitan. What a pretty show!&nbsp; Two whole cases =
were=20
devoted to mid-nineteenth century underwear - super,  since I'm in the =
process=20
of making a set. I highly recommend this show, called something like =
"Ingres in=20
Fashion," to anyone who happens in be in New York. Have you seen the =
book by=20
Aileen Riberio?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Anyway - I have a question about the =
mid nineteenth=20
century shift.&nbsp; Most of the examples I've seen have a reinforcement =
around=20
the underarm.&nbsp; It's about 2" wide and made of the same fabric as =
the=20
shift.&nbsp; What's this for?&nbsp; Is it to keep the corset from =
wearing=20
through?&nbsp; The sleeve and its gusset would take care of the =
perspiration=20
absorption problem, right?&nbsp; This reinforcement piece seems too =
large just=20
to strengthen the point of the gusset. Can anyone explain this to=20
me?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Martha K</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF0366.1FD0FA40--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 11:34:00 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 09:50:09 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Millenium Clarification (OT)
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-Poster: KaosWarior@vcnet.com

>the first day of the new millenium is Jan 1, 2001. We're in the 20th
>Century,  but the year is 1999, right? That's because when the current
>calender was formulated,  they started at the 1st century AD, but didn't
>start at year 101. They started at year 1. Therefore, the centuries are one
>ahead of the years, and end on the 00's (has to to have a full 100 years in
>it). It went 1-100. then 101-200 ad nauseam. But the centuries went 1st cent
>(1-100), 2nd (101-200) and so on. It didn't start on year zero as is the
>common theory, it's just that to get the centuries lined up, they would have
>had to add a 100 to the year to match. People tend to start on 1, not zero.
>(Think about how you count things. If you have 15 apples you don't start
>with zero apples, one apple.... you start on 1. Same with years.)
>
>Sorry if this sounds oversimplified (its not really, just worder simply).
>This is how I had to explain it to my sister's Honors history class last
>year.
>
>Anya

  You don't know how relieved I am that there are other people out there who
understand reality!  I've tried the analogy of money with somewhat shakey
convictions.  if you compare years to money by accepting the possibility
that there are only 100 days in a year.  Jan. 1, 2000 would be like having
$1999.01, you don't have a full $2000 yet!

  And besides the dating system is arbitrary any way.

  No one knew that just because one person had been born and who's life
would have such a signifcant impact on the world that there was supposed
to be a change in the way in how time was dated.  The real significance
of our Year 2000 is simply a electronic/mechanical gliche & not much more.
On the Jewish calendar its something like year 5763 (give or take a few
years) ;-)  And they have been measuring time for a long, long, long time!
Some 57 hundred plus years now  ;-)

  So in IMHreality the "hype" that is going around is just that, HYPE!
lots of people saw an opportunity to make $$$ & the vocal majority latched
on like a pitbull to a passing victim! (oh, am I going to get it for that one)
what amazes me most is that these are otherwise "intelligent" people who
are buying into this crap!  Take for example M&Ms they are touting that
theirs is
the candy of the new millenium, because M is the roman numeral for one thousand.
But in truth their MM would really stand for the candy of the old millenium ;-)

  So if I want to have a big blow out this year it will be with the
understanding
that this is the "begining of the end" & not the end!

I apologise if I offend with this message as OT, but they disagree otherwise...



  This is just my Opinion like it or not, I'm sticking to it!


C-YA!!!!!!
Scott ;-)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 11:45:11 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 12:58:36 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Pilot Cloth?
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

I was flipping thru a Burda magazine the other day, and the fabric 
recommended for one of their projects (a cold weather coat) was "pilot 
cloth."  What is this?  

Thanks!
--Jen
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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How white was white?
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

>-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
>
><<I was told recently that 16th century chemise could not possibly have been
>white because there was no such thing as bleach. >>
>
>This doesn't follow. They may not have had chlorine bleach, but chlorine
>bleach isn't the only way to whiten things.
>
>Linen in particular whitens fairly easily just by drying in the sun.
>
>There's no doubt they had plenty of white linen and white silk.
>
>
>Deborah

Before chemical bleach, people used to stretch huge amounts of fabric out
in the sun and sunbleach cloth white. It got very white but took a long
time. Several weeks at least. I think the places were call Fuller's feilds.
The innovation of chemical bleach, which was cheaper, and a good deal
faster, didn't occur until the Victorian period. When this occured the land
that had been used for bleaching was put to the plow and food prices
dropped. (I think I saw this on one of the Connections shows.)

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: width of cloth
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

>-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>
>
>- -Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>The width of cloth was limited by the width of the loom , so you could reach
>either side for the shuttle. It was only with the introduction  a spring
>arrangement at the end of a piece of string that made it possible to weave
>wider cloth;
>
>
>Sorry, but this isn't entirely accurate.  The introduction of the two-man
>horizontal loom in the thirteenth century made possible the weaving of
>"broadcloth."  According to John Munro, even before the introduction of the
>horizontal loom--probably in the eleventh century in Northern Europe--there
>were two-person warp-weighted looms, which were producing cloth of roughly 2
>yards in width.  The broadloom produced cloths of 2 to 3 yards in width.
>Standard width in medieval Flanders was 3.5 ells, which is roughly 2.75
>yards--finished and fulled, a standard late Flemish luxury broadcloth would be
>about 21 yards long by 1.8 yards wide.
>
>This is all from the John Munro article on "Textile Technology in the Middle
>Ages" which I mentioned in an earlier post (from *The Dictionary of the Middle
>Ages,* ed. Joseph Strayer, in the "Scandinavian Languages to Textiles" volume.
>
>
>Lauri

I just wish to second this with a second reference: _The Italian Cotton
industry in the later Middle Ages 1100-1600_ by Maureen Fennel Mazzaoui.
Published by Cambridge UP in 1981. The middle section discusses several of
the looms and other devices needed in these years to produce cheap, but
good quality fine cotton as well as sail canvas and so on. I remember a
specific reference to the double loom and to the fact that one weaver was
comissioned to make two lenghths of cloth fit together in the middle so
that it could be sold as double loomed cloth. Chapter 4 specifically talks
about the Techology used in production of cloth. In this case it is generic
with a slant towards cotton cloth production.

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 12:44:54 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 12:54:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Questions?/Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I just checked Marc's site out and I think that it's terrific. My only
comment is "More, more!" 

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 13:17:58 1999
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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Early 16th cent German Corsetry-
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 11:30:47 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

This may be a repeated message -seems that only half my messages 'get in'.

Does anyone know any good resource for corsetry worn under the puff and
slash type gowns.  Was it any different from the other countries corsetry?
(I have seen some reference to the Italian style of dress of the period that
said corsetry may not have been worn.)  I will be working off Period
Patterns # 40, the only reference to undergarments it makes is that the
silhouette slightly flattened the bust and that it should be worn over a
shift.  Should I use a bum-roll?


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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <37E657BA.BCD9043F@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: width of cloth
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 18:48:32 +0100
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 > -Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>
>
> - -Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
> The width of cloth was limited by the width of the loom , so you could
reach
> either side for the shuttle. It was only with the introduction  a spring
> arrangement at the end of a piece of string that made it possible to weave
> wider cloth;
>
>
> Sorry, but this isn't entirely accurate


>There are those with better memories on this list who can provide date and
>more technical descriptions of this important breakthrough
>and this is a request for them to do so as it driving me crazy trying to
>remember.
But this was and I do thank you.
But I still tend agree with the initial poster. The narrowness of the panels
in the item in question might be a result of it being cut from narrow
material,. If it was cut from wider material; then there must be some
element unseen or unmentioned ; otherwise it is just work for work,s sake; I
am yet to be convinced otherwise.
Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 13:46:15 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Book Review?
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 17:18:00 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Mon, 20 Sep 1999 01:44:42 +0000, the following was written in this
electric book by Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>:

>
>-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
>Greetings,
>
>I was doing some browsing and came across the following book. Would someone
>who has knowledge of it be willing to give a review?
>
> Dress in the Middle Ages

I own this volume and I am still reading through it. I will post a
review when I have formed an opinion.

Anyone else?

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 13:48:37 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How white was white?
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 10:24:43 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



I had heard something about bleaching with horse urine.  I couldn't bring
myself to wear something that was bleached this way but, maybe they could
have.
Michelle

>Linen in particular whitens fairly easily just by drying in the sun.
>
>There's no doubt they had plenty of white linen and white silk.
>
>
>Deborah
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How white was white?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>Before chemical bleach, people used to stretch huge amounts of fabric out
>in the sun and sunbleach cloth white. It got very white but took a long
>time. Several weeks at least. I think the places were call Fuller's feilds.
>

I've heard this story:  Linen was spread out on grass to dry.  In order to
make this easier, large expanses of grass wouold be kept tidy and cut short.
A particular type of fine linen is called "Lawn", which I believe is the
name of a town in France where it was produced.  Therefore, the large flat
area of carefully tended grass near the house is where you spread the
linens, and that's why it's called the "Lawn" today.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie costume commentary was: Ever After
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 10:22:47 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



The stiffened underbodice is what we are talking about. Oatmeal and
unbleached linen are close in color.
Michelle
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Bornover <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> It is oatmeal.  It looked like it could possibly be oatmeal or  pale
olive?
>> Does that mean that all the white peoples faces look green too?  :)  That
>> could be nauseating...
>
>Regarding the dress she is wearing during the Prince's Fight.  The dress
she
>*was* wearing before she climbed the tree is a pale blue brocade.  What she
is
>wearing during the fight is her underwear, chemise.  With a stiffened
>underbodice.  And it is an unbleached linen color.
>
>Cynthia
>
>--
>Cynthia Long
>Merouda the True of Bornover
>Barony of Madrone
>Kingdom of An Tir
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <004901bf0387$a7de5f60$d2df7ad1@martha>
Subject: H-COST: Early 16th Cent German Corsetry?
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 10:18:41 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Does anyone know any good resource for corsetry worn under the puff and =
slash type gowns.  Was it any different from the other countries =
corsetry?  (I have seen some reference to the Italian style of dress of =
the period that said corsetry may not have been worn.)  I will be =
working off Period Patternst # 40, the only reference to undergarments =
it makes is that the silhouette slightly flattened the bust and that it =
should be worn over a shift.

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<HTML><HEAD>
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<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>Does anyone know any good resource for corsetry =
worn under=20
the puff and slash type gowns.&nbsp; Was it any different from the other =

countries corsetry?&nbsp; (I have seen some reference to the Italian =
style of=20
dress of the period that said corsetry may not have been worn.)&nbsp; I =
will be=20
working off Period Patternst # 40, the only reference to undergarments =
it makes=20
is that the silhouette slightly flattened the bust and that it should be =
worn=20
over a shift.</BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 15:34:54 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Millennium Clarification (OT)
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 9/20/99 11:50:36 AM Central Daylight Time, 
KaosWarior@vcnet.com writes:

>   This is just my Opinion like it or not, I'm sticking to it!

You don't know how thrilled I am to have come onto a group of truly 
intelligent people! I am SO tired of the new millennium hype...

We should gather somewhere for a true new millennium celebration!

Dani G
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 14:47:29 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Early 16th cent German Corsetry-
In-Reply-To: <002101bf0396$430d8340$8e3d1d26@buck>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


The German tudor silhouette was definitely more rounded than the
flat-fronted English Tudor court portraits.  It was still flattened
slightly, and definitely compressed; I use a close-fitting
back-lacing sleeveless kirtle, cut as if it were to be worn over a corset,
over a simple smock. I'm a D cup, and for me it does a good job of
creating the correct "smushed & lifted" look--pretty flat, but still
rounder than a corseted figure.

I haven't seen anything regarding bumrolls, either...but I've found that
when I use a small & loosely stuffed one under a skirt pleated with rolled
pleats, it looks smack out of a Cranach painting.

 I know of no reference to corsets worn under German Tudor dress. If
anyone does, pleeeze let me know!

Drea



 On Mon,
20 Sep 1999, Dean Quackenbush wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
> 
> This may be a repeated message -seems that only half my messages 'get in'.
> 
> Does anyone know any good resource for corsetry worn under the puff and
> slash type gowns.  Was it any different from the other countries corsetry?
> (I have seen some reference to the Italian style of dress of the period that
> said corsetry may not have been worn.)  I will be working off Period
> Patterns # 40, the only reference to undergarments it makes is that the
> silhouette slightly flattened the bust and that it should be worn over a
> shift.  Should I use a bum-roll?
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 15:00:09 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 13:12:37 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Alikhat <alikhat@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Millenium Clarification
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-Poster: Alikhat <alikhat@ix.netcom.com>


 Actually, for the ultimate explanation of the whole silly 2000 vs.
2001 business, I highly recommend going to 
http://www.geocities.com:80/Athens/Oracle/9941/endtime.html

 It's part of an entire website devoted to the phenom of Millennial
Madness called, "It's The End Of The World As We Know It...Again" at
http://www.geocities.com:80/Athens/Oracle/9941/index.html

Very amusing and gets the point across.


 Alikhat

 BTW, on yet another anal point, "Millennium" is spelled with 2 n's.



At 06:19 AM 9/20/99 -0500, Anya wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 22:44
>Subject: Re: BP (was H-COST: Canadian Iceman update - OT)
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>>
>
>>
>>Um, no its not.  Jan1, 2000 is the beginning of the new millenium, but this
>>is way too off topic for this list...  Anyone curious needs to review some
>>graphs and mathmatics...
>>
>>Julie Adams
>
>
>the first day of the new millenium is Jan 1, 2001. We're in the 20th
>Century,  but the year is 1999, right? That's because when the current
>calender was formulated,  they started at the 1st century AD, but didn't
>start at year 101. They started at year 1. Therefore, the centuries are one
>ahead of the years, and end on the 00's (has to to have a full 100 years in
>it). It went 1-100. then 101-200 ad nauseam. But the centuries went 1st cent
>(1-100), 2nd (101-200) and so on. It didn't start on year zero as is the
>common theory, it's just that to get the centuries lined up, they would have
>had to add a 100 to the year to match. People tend to start on 1, not zero.
>(Think about how you count things. If you have 15 apples you don't start
>with zero apples, one apple.... you start on 1. Same with years.)
>
>Sorry if this sounds oversimplified (its not really, just worder simply).
>This is how I had to explain it to my sister's Honors history class last
>year.
>
>Anya
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 15:43:00 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 13:51:13 -0700
From: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

Sorry to respond late, but had to clear out email from the weekend (I have a volume problem).

Frankie Manning is from Harlem, so he's recalling from that perspective--though by the time the zoot suits were popular he'd have been dancing the Lindy for a couple of years (this dance, considered the first swing dance, was invented in the very late 1920s, but it really didn't emerge from Harlem until the mid '30s).  By that time, Frankie Manning was dancing in a professional group, Whitey's Lindy Hoppers, and they were performing in a number of movies shot at that time (like the Marx Bros Night at the Races, etc.).  Consequently, they traveled frequently out to the LA area--as did the major band leaders, like Calloway.  So, the NY swing culture did mix with the LA hispanic culture and it is clear the two cultures had an influence on each other.

I don't know where the zoot started (the old chicken-egg problem).  You can also see this kind of cross-influence in the spanish swing music that came from LA at this time as well (a funny example is Louis Guererra's "Marijuana Boogie").

What I do know was that at the time, a zoot was a kind of defiant gesture.  Zoot suits used enormous quantities of fabric at a time of rationing.  The people who wore them were frequently either draft evaders or non-citizen immigrants (who weren't drafted).  In LA, there were street riots between the "pachucos"--members of a Chicano street gang and Navy sailors who didn't approve of the attitude zoot suiters had.  A classic culture clash. Think West Side Story done 40s style (and in LA ;-}). 

Once the war got underway, the popularity of the zoot suit faded, as times had overtaken the drama of their shock value:  people simply had more on their minds than big suits.

Incidently, the trend towards big clothes also emerged in the UK in that same period as preppie public school boys started wearing exceedingly baggy slacks.  These were unlike zoot suit baggies, since they weren't tappered at the ankles (apparently cuffs on a single leg of pants could be as wide as a woman's skirt).  The motivation was also rebellion, but this time from the upper classes.  Again, I don't know if you can draw any conclusion about cause/effect--or even influence, in this case--but it certainly was an interesting bit of cultural synchronicity.

Say, you folks in academia--this could be a really good research topic--just let us know what you dig up!

Mary
---
Visit my homepage:
http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly

On Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:26:39   Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>
>>One final historic note...I've taken a couple of Frankie Manning workshops
>(Frankie was one of the first swing dancers and is credited for inventing
>aerial moves so closely associated with the dance) and got the opportunity
>to ask him last year whether zoots were really popular back in the golden
>days of swing dancing at the Savoy.  He said that there was a short time at
>the beginning of WWII when they were popular in Harlem, but mostly it was
>more popular with Latinos.
>
>This may be a regional difference.  My father, who lived in New York city,
>thinks of zoot suits as a Black style, and my mother, who lived in Burbank
>(near Los Angeles) remembers it as a Mexican style.  
>
>Margo
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Book Review?
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 17:45:03 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>>I was doing some browsing and came across the following book. Would
>>someone who has knowledge of it be willing to give a review?
>>
>> Dress in the Middle Ages


I've referred to this in the past as a "culture book" rather than a costume
book.  If you're looking for patterns or lots of detail on what was worn in
particular periods, you won't find it here.  If, on the other hand, you're
interested in the place of dress in medieval society, the book is far more
useful.  As I recall, one problem I found with the book is lack of
footnoting--makes it sort of hard to track down tantalizing tidbits.

Susan

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 17:43:36 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: How white was white?
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

According to Kax Wilson, linen was first soaked in sour milk and cow's dung, 
then in waste lye, before being laid out in the fields.
Silk, which is naturally a cream color, was bleached white as early as the 
Middle Ages, but it was very expensive.  The silk was spread over a cage in 
which lamp sulfur was burned.  Wool could also be whitened this way, with 
fuller's earth or gypsum to even out the color.  
Ann Wass
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Subject: H-COST: Speaking of Houpelandes....
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-Poster: rima@anet.net

Chas says:

>A Bastard houppelande is one that is or about ankle length, or so I have been
>taught and have read.  The great houppelandes were ones that not only drug
>the ground, but actually made a respectable puddle of fabric at the feet.
>You can witness these in many Italian portraits.  Riding houppelandes had to
>be shorter than even a bastard houppelande, and therefor were cut at the
>knees or perhaps a tad higher.  If you study portaits from the 12th-15th
>centuries you can see the evolution of this garment.

I've made a couple from the Past Patterns version, and I was wondering if
anybody has come up with a clever way of belting these so that you get
those wonderful even folds that you see in all the art of the time???

Or do I just need to get my  handmaiden to arrange my gown for me ever 20
minutes?

Rima
Great on those cool winter nights....LOVE feeling my sleeves drag the
floor.....


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 15:41:04 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: Questions?/Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<seamstrix@juno.com>
>I just checked Marc's site out and I think that it's terrific. My only
>comment is "More, more!" 

Thank you, and I will be happy to put more there just as soon as I have more.
One of the things I keep trying to tell people is that I don't have to be the
person that writes more information for it.  I just control the format :)
If people want to contribute to it the major restriction(s) are that whatever
is described must be an actual garment (although I may be talked into
lightening
up about some things like brass rubbings, and such).

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 16:38:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 13:40:41 +0000
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Chas wrote:

> I don't know why they refered to the slightly shorter houppelande as a
> "bastard" houppelande, but then again why was a sword that was slightly
> shorter than a great sword called a "bastard" sword?  Im not up on etymology
> of the English language, but it would be fascinating to know why "bastard"
> was applied.

Normal short swords were used with one hand. 'Great swords' were larger and
heavier, and thus designed to be used with two hands (usually to break the
heads of of pikes and spears). A 'bastard' sword (often called a 'hand and a
half') was somewhere between the two; light enough to be swung with one hand,
but with a hilt long enough to accommodate two hands if needed.

P.S.: Swords were not the heavy behemoths people envision and Hollywood
perpetuates. On the average they weighed one lb./ft., so a short sword would
weigh about 3 lbs. They were light so that you could swing them without
becoming tired. People didn't duel on foot with great swords. Nor did they
fence with them. Stabbing was generally not effective with these slashing weapons.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 16:38:30 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: How white was white?/Lawn/2001
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

The OED backs up Margo's info on 'lawn', although it notes that the
derivation was identified relatively recently (1900) and is not entirely certain.

The modern term in French for a nice grass lawn is 'pelouse' which is
basically 'fur.'  Leastaways, that's what my french teacher taught me.

And lastly, anyone interested in the 2000/2001 thing can do a websearch,
as I did recently.  Sites from the Greenwich Observatory in England, to
the military, will fill you in on all the details.  Most advocate an
odometer party this year, and a Millenium one next.  And I wish I'd had
a party in '96 for the Jesus's birthday date, but I wasn't thinking
about it then.  Three millenium parties; what more could you want?

cv
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 16:58:34 -0500
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From: Carole Frick <cfrick@siue.edu>
Subject: H-COST: white silk
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-Poster: Carole Frick <cfrick@siue.edu>

In Renaissance Florence, silk was made white by the use of sulphurous
fumes, which dictated where this work could be done, preferably down-wind
from people's habitations. 

Carole Collier Frick
Department of History
Southern Illinois University

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From: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

Sorry to respond late, but had to clear out email from the weekend (I have a volume problem).

Frankie Manning is from Harlem, so he's recalling from that perspective--though by the time the zoot suits were popular he'd have been dancing the Lindy for a couple of years (this dance, considered the first swing dance, was invented in the very late 1920s, but it really didn't emerge from Harlem until the mid '30s).  By that time, Frankie Manning was dancing in a professional group, Whitey's Lindy Hoppers, and they were performing in a number of movies shot at that time (like the Marx Bros Night at the Races, etc.).  Consequently, they traveled frequently out to the LA area--as did the major band leaders, like Calloway.  So, the NY swing culture did mix with the LA hispanic culture and it is clear the two cultures had an influence on each other.

I don't know where the zoot started (the old chicken-egg problem).  You can also see this kind of cross-influence in the spanish swing music that came from LA at this time as well (a funny example is Louis Guererra's "Marijuana Boogie").

What I do know was that at the time, a zoot was a kind of defiant gesture.  Zoot suits used enormous quantities of fabric at a time of rationing.  The people who wore them were frequently either draft evaders or non-citizen immigrants (who weren't drafted).  In LA, there were street riots between the "pachucos"--members of a Chicano street gang and Navy sailors who didn't approve of the attitude zoot suiters had.  A classic culture clash. Think West Side Story done 40s style (and in LA ;-}). 

Once the war got underway, the popularity of the zoot suit faded, as times had overtaken the drama of their shock value:  people simply had more on their minds than big suits.

Incidently, the trend towards big clothes also emerged in the UK in that same period as preppie public school boys started wearing exceedingly baggy slacks.  These were unlike zoot suit baggies, since they weren't tappered at the ankles (apparently cuffs on a single leg of pants could be as wide as a woman's skirt).  The motivation was also rebellion, but this time from the upper classes.  Again, I don't know if you can draw any conclusion about cause/effect--or even influence, in this case--but it certainly was an interesting bit of cultural synchronicity.

Say, you folks in academia--this could be a really good research topic--just let us know what you dig up!

Mary
---
Visit my homepage:
http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly

On Fri, 17 Sep 1999 08:26:39   Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>
>>One final historic note...I've taken a couple of Frankie Manning workshops
>(Frankie was one of the first swing dancers and is credited for inventing
>aerial moves so closely associated with the dance) and got the opportunity
>to ask him last year whether zoots were really popular back in the golden
>days of swing dancing at the Savoy.  He said that there was a short time at
>the beginning of WWII when they were popular in Harlem, but mostly it was
>more popular with Latinos.
>
>This may be a regional difference.  My father, who lived in New York city,
>thinks of zoot suits as a Black style, and my mother, who lived in Burbank
>(near Los Angeles) remembers it as a Mexican style.  
>
>Margo
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 21:57:20 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: How white was white?
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Michelle wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> I had heard something about bleaching with horse urine.  I couldn't bring
> myself to wear something that was bleached this way but, maybe they could
> have.
> Michelle
> 
> >Linen in particular whitens fairly easily just by drying in the sun.
> >
> >There's no doubt they had plenty of white linen and white silk.
> >
> >
> >Deborah
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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Bleaching and washing of all types of items from hair to cloth as well
as wounds etc was often done with urine, which when it has had all the
proteins etc filtered out is one of the the purest liquids known and is
even safe to drink. It is the most natural form of ammonia

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From: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Laurel Wilson <lwilson16@earthlink.net>

- -Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

 >
But I still tend agree with the initial poster. The narrowness of the panels
in the item in question might be a result of it being cut from narrow
material,. If it was cut from wider material; then there must be some
element unseen or unmentioned ; otherwise it is just work for work,s sake; I
am yet to be convinced otherwise.
Dave
   


I don't remember the original post, I'm sorry to say, but you made me realize
that I neglected to point out in my post that there continued to be a great
deal of wool woven in narrower loom widths.  There were so-called one-man
cloths in England, and many other kinds of cloths in England, Flanders, and I
imagine the rest of Europe, that fell outside of the legally specified
dimensions for broadcloth.  (fell 'inside', I guess I should say, since they
were narrower than broadcloth)  With a nod in Robin's direction, I even seem
to remember that worsteds were usually narrow widths, but I need to look that
one up.

Lauri
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 17:04:09 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>


> I've made a couple from the Past Patterns version, and I was wondering if
> anybody has come up with a clever way of belting these so that you get
> those wonderful even folds that you see in all the art of the time???

If my belt is snug, I don't need to repleat mine over an afternoon.  You
could also baste it to an inner tape, in pleats.

cv
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 17:04:37 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Mon, 20 Sep 1999 rima@anet.net wrote:

> 
> I've made a couple from the Past Patterns version, and I was wondering if
> anybody has come up with a clever way of belting these so that you get
> those wonderful even folds that you see in all the art of the time???
> 
> Or do I just need to get my  handmaiden to arrange my gown for me ever 20
> minutes?
I'd say the hand maiden *grin*
You could try tacking pleats into it, so they stay where you want them too.
Usually I just put on the belt and do a bit of tugging to get it more or less
even (making sure the side seams are actually on the sides is usually the 
main thing). If your fabric is nice and heavy but soft it will fall into
more or less regular folds by itself.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 17:25:14 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 15:27:57 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: End the Millennium Clarification :-)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Look folks, it doesn't really matter whether the millennium ends this year or
next. Millions of people will celebrate either way. Personally, I'd rather
have it this year so that all of the stupid hype will be over 12 months
sooner. So, if you believe it's next year, smile at your superior
intelligence, but please keep it to yourself!! (I can't survive an twelve
extra months of hype!!)  :-)

Thanks,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: End the Millennium Clarification :-)
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings--

> Personally, I'd rather
>have it this year so that all of the stupid hype will be over 12 months
>sooner. So, if you believe it's next year, smile at your superior
>intelligence, but please keep it to yourself!! (I can't survive an twelve
>extra months of hype!!)  :-)


Now THAT I can agree with....

Susan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 18:14:14 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: A Lurker's Questions
Message-Id: <937867989.20033.823@excite.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 15:53:09 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Hello!

I missed de-lurking day, but have a couple of questions now. (And I'll send
in my Procrastinator's Anonymous membership soon, I promise!)

Question 1: Is there any place I might search for how to make and embellish
a shroud? Specifically, the kind used in the British Isles called a winding
sheet. (Hope I've got my terms straight!) IF memory serves, they used to
make fine ones with embroidery and such, but I need to find some
documentation.

Question 2: Where might one find a modern reproduction of an ancient clay
oil lamp? I've seen pictures, but do not have a clue who made them. They
look a little like what one might expect Aladdin's lamp to look like, they
use oil or fat for fuel, and have a wick. I think they were made in Greece,
originally.

And no, I'm not explaining what I need these for yet. Let me find out if the
idea works, first! ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 18:20:23 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 19:34:08 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: How white was white
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-Poster: ArcadiaCB@aol.com

By the mid 19th c a "blue bag" was used to give fabric that blue-white cast.  
I have this in a mid 19th c book (1858 I think, too lazy to go pull it). The 
author gives step by step instructions on how to do laundry (thank you, thank 
you) so I used this method when portraying a Civil War camp laundress.  You 
just put a cake of indigo in a  *double layered* bag and whish it in the 
rinse water. Careful not to let it touch the garment or it will leave a blue 
stain.  As it dries in the sun it will take on blue-white cast and get the 
yellow look out.   Liquid bluing is still available (thing "blue-haired 
ladies" who use bluing to take the dingy yellow cast out of white hair.  
Don't know when this method was discovered.
 Charlene B.
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Subject: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 99 16:53:12 -0700
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-Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>


Drea Leed posted:

>I haven't seen anything regarding bumrolls, either...but I've found that
>when I use a small & loosely stuffed one under a skirt pleated with rolled
>pleats, it looks smack out of a Cranach painting.

Drea, what are rolled pleats?

thanks

Gail DeCamp


Dogs come when you call them. Cats have answering machines.  

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 19:01:11 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 20:14:33 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: How white was white?
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 9/20/99 1:10:36 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
mandrake@mypad.com writes:

<< I had heard something about bleaching with horse urine.  I couldn't bring
 myself to wear something that was bleached this way but, maybe they could
 have. >>
Horse urine makes a spetacular mordant so many of the dyes were set this way. 
 You couldn't achieve a true black without it. It's called "urea" today but 
its the same thing.    I think human urine was used, too.  Hope this didn't 
spoil your dinner. Cheryl Odom
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 19:38:43 1999
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From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Cheryldee@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 9/20/99 1:10:36 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> mandrake@mypad.com writes:

> Horse urine makes a spetacular mordant so many of the dyes were set this way.
>  You couldn't achieve a true black without it. It's called "urea" today but
> its the same thing.    I think human urine was used, too.  Hope this didn't
> spoil your dinner. Cheryl Odom

I think this has been mentioned before, but cow urine is still
used in India for mordanting with natural dyes.

It's no more repulsive (or smellier) than using ammonia in the wash.

Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909202347.QAA02669@scv1.apple.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 18:17:14 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

> Drea, what are rolled pleats?

Organ-pipe pleats are another name for what I believe she is referring to.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 1999 4:53 PM
Subject: H-COST: Rolled pleats?


>
> -Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
>
>
> Drea Leed posted:
>
> >I haven't seen anything regarding bumrolls, either...but I've found that
> >when I use a small & loosely stuffed one under a skirt pleated with
rolled
> >pleats, it looks smack out of a Cranach painting.
>
> Drea, what are rolled pleats?
>
> thanks
>
> Gail DeCamp
>
>
> Dogs come when you call them. Cats have answering machines.
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 20:20:11 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 21:33:39 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: Victorian "Fancy Dress"
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

to Margo King who unlurked to give me some information:
Thank you for your suggestion to check the Harpers Bazaar book.  I do own the 
book,  but had not gotten around to looking in it yet.  It does indeed have 
fashions based on historical styles that are meant to be regular ball dress, 
not even "Fancy Dress."  They will make excellent illustrations of how to 
take a dress that was "fashionable" and make it a masquerade outfit.  Thanks 
again.
 
 Joan McTeer
 Minneapolis 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 20:32:00 1999
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From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Men's costumes: Japanese
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Dear lists (cross-posting) --

I am having to learn to make Japanese male costume
for my son. I kind of enjoy this as I'm interested in
Japanese art/culture, etc. and also sell kimonos. 
I can lend him things "from stock", but have to make some
new things too. I also occasionally get a request for a
kimono for some guy over 6 feet tall, 250 lb. (should've
kept track of these)

Does anyone out there think there might be a custom market
for such garb? Assuming I learn how to do it authentically
(except I'm not sewing them by hand) would other guys be
interested??  This would not be *cheap*! Are people willing
to pay realistic prices for costumes they can only wear
once in awhile??

Susan Fatemi


-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 20:35:59 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 18:46:36 -0700
From: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
Organization: Well, I wouldn't call it organized......
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-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>

aleed wrote:

> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
> The German tudor silhouette was definitely more rounded than the
> flat-fronted English Tudor court portraits.

Okay, I know that there are some people on this list who do German Renn
gowns.  I am by no means an expert but I have made a number of them and
I am going to try to give as much knowledge on this subject that I can.
First, however, I have a complaint......

Calling this look the "German Tudor" silhouette is like fingers on a
chalkboard to me.  In Germany, they didn't have much at all to do with
this Henry VIII fellow.  It would be like calling early 1800's styles in
the United States the "American Napoleonic" style.  It's just not
right.  One common way to refer to this German style is to call it the
*Cranach* style after perhaps the most prolific German painter of that
period.  Thanks for letting me clarify that.  My neck will stop tweaking
now :~>

> It was still flattened
> slightly, and definitely compressed; I use a close-fitting
> back-lacing sleeveless kirtle, cut as if it were to be worn over a
> corset,
> over a simple smock. I'm a D cup, and for me it does a good job of
> creating the correct "smushed & lifted" look--pretty flat, but still
> rounder than a corseted figure.

I know that people use corsets for this style but the correct silhouette
can be achieved by other methods.  The corsets of other countries during
the same time period won't give the right look.  There is still a debate
on whether or not some form of corsetry was in fact used.  I personally
believe that they were not used or that if they were, it was in a
limited capacity (which I will explain below.)

Firstly, it is important to use a stiff fabric in the bodice either as a
lining or as a supplemental stiffening agent.  This will keep the torso
kind-of "strapped in" and prevent wrinkles & shifting.  If done
properly, even a *healthy* woman can achive a smooth look.  Secondly,
you can put stiffening in the "placket" or front decorative piece which
is comprised of the decorative bust covering and the white part which is
laced over.  If you place boning from waist to under the bust, you can
keep the stomach area flat but allow the breasts to remain curvy.  They
would then be held in place by the top part of the placket.

The placket should be permanently attached on one side and held in with
hooks & eyes on the other side when worn.  Then the lacing over the
stomach keeps things neat.  Another possibility is that the bodice had
an internal corset only in the front which has the boning arrangement I
mentioned before and was permanently attached to the bodice-lacing in
the center.  You lace up the bodice using the corset part to reduce
strain on your placket.

> I haven't seen anything regarding bumrolls, either...but I've found
> that
> when I use a small & loosely stuffed one under a skirt pleated with
> rolled
> pleats, it looks smack out of a Cranach painting.

No bumrolls.  Use cartridge pleating.  Very German, very easy and gives
all the poofing you need.  The pleats tend to stand out when attached
properly and a stiffening agent used in them.  There is some debate on
whether or not the skirts used gored panels or rectangular panels.
Personally, I like rectangular ones cuz they are easier to lay trim on
and are easier to cartridge pleat.

Hope this helps.  And I would be happy to help anyone get more info on
this because I think the style is FABULOUS (I have 4 Cranach dresses
myself).

Diana :~>

--

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
"There are too many mediocre things in life to deal with.....Love
shouldn't be one
 of them."
--Ione Skye in "Dream for an Insomniac"


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-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>

Lecelina O'Brian Of Mount Shannon wrote:

> -Poster: "Lecelina O'Brian Of Mount Shannon" <lecelina@hotmail.com>
>
> Diana,
>
> Is that offer open to anyone?  I like the style I have the simplicity
> patterns trying to do the best I can to  make it  some what close to
> period,
> any help is appreciated.
>
> Lady Lecelina
>
> ****** I would be happy to forward some
> online portrait URL's to show you the styles.*****

Absolutely!!  Tell me which pattern you have & I will look it up so I
can give you the proper portaits for the style.

Diana :~>


--

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
"There are too many mediocre things in life to deal with.....Love
shouldn't be one
 of them."
--Ione Skye in "Dream for an Insomniac"


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 20:56:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 22:09:04 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: How white was white?
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Technically speaking, urine was not used as a mordant.  Mordants are metallic 
oxides, such as oxides of aluminum, tin, or chrome.  The dye combines with 
the metallic oxide to form an insoluble colored compound--good for a dye 
because it won't wash out.  Urine was used in dyeing and finishing, though.  
It was, for example, used as the reducing agent that made indigo water 
soluble.  (It then oxidizes again in the air, forming the blue, insoluble, 
color.)  But this is not the same as a mordant--indigo is a VAT dye. 
Ann Wass
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Early 16th cent German Corsetry-
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 19:26:56 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>
>-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
>
>Does anyone know any good resource for corsetry worn under the puff and
>slash type gowns. 

You can use the corset on page 113 of Janet Arnold's: Patterns of Fashion.

> Was it any different from the other countries corsetry?

Yes, English wore completely flattening corsets.


>Should I use a bum-roll?

I don't think so, but it depends on the garment specifically.
Michelle

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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

> Date:          Mon, 20 Sep 1999 18:46:36 -0700
> From:          Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
> Organization:  Well, I wouldn't call it organized......
> To:            h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:       Re: H-COST: Early 16th cent German Corsetry-
> Reply-to:      h-costume@indra.com

> 
> -Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
> 
> aleed wrote:
> 
> > -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> >
> > The German tudor silhouette was definitely more rounded than the
> > flat-fronted English Tudor court portraits.
> 
> Okay, I know that there are some people on this list who do German Renn
> gowns.  I am by no means an expert but I have made a number of them and
> I am going to try to give as much knowledge on this subject that I can.
> First, however, I have a complaint......
> 
> Calling this look the "German Tudor" silhouette is like fingers on a
> chalkboard to me.  In Germany, they didn't have much at all to do with
> this Henry VIII fellow. 

They might not have anything to do with each other except that the 
clothing in Germany and England for men was very similar during this 
part of the 16th C.

Women, on the other hand, were quite different. (Look at the 
differences between Anne of Cleves and the other queens of HVIII.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 19:29:47 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: WAS: Re: H-COST: How white was white? NOW: Re: Urea
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

    If it's washed out after it's been bleached, why is it any more
repulsive than mushrooms which have been raised in 'growing medium' and
then washed?  Carol, raised on a farm, and thus, I guess, with a different
perspective...
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 21:41:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 21:54:07 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: H-COST: Early 16th cent German reference
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

I've been reading the discussion on 16th century German underpinnings with
interest--thanks for all the practical information!  I have a reference to
pass along for bookaholics, I mean those who like to research.  It is not a
book that I own, but it does have a great number of 16th century German
portraits and woodcuts/etchings, etc.  The text is in German, and I'm sure
it is very informative (wish my German were better!).

_Textiler Hausrat
Kleidung und Haustextilen in Nurnberg von 1500-1650_
by
Jutta Zander-Seidel
published in 1990
ISBN 3-422-06067-7

US Amazon does not have it, but Amazon.de, the German version, does.  The
front page of the site is at:
http://www.amazon.de/exec/obidos/subst/home/home.html/
The book itself is at:
http://www.amazon.de/exec/obidos/ASIN/3422060677/qid%3D937881851/028-7933346-178
0250

It apparently ships within 2 or 3 business days, and it costs about $105
(US dollars) or 198 Deutschmarks.  (Insert standard not affiliated with
them, just shop there disclaimer)

Happy shopping!
Melanie Schuessler

write to melanie@faucet.net
or visit at http://www.faucet.net/costume


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A Lurker's Questions
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 20:13:01 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>Question 2: Where might one find a modern reproduction of an ancient clay
>oil lamp? I've seen pictures, but do not have a clue who made them. They
>look a little like what one might expect Aladdin's lamp to look like, they
>use oil or fat for fuel, and have a wick. I think they were made in Greece,
>originally.
>
>Kate


I would look into finding more info on Soapstone.  You may come across
someone who makes them.
Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Re: H-COST: How white was white? NOW: Re: Urea
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 20:16:57 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>    If it's washed out after it's been bleached, why is it any more
>repulsive than mushrooms which have been raised in 'growing medium' and
>then washed?  Carol, raised on a farm, and thus, I guess, with a different
>perspective...


I don't eat mushrooms either!  :)
Michelle

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 23:15:58 -0400
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Margery wrote:
>There has been a lot of *really*uncharitable* slamming of this pattern
>in the past few days.

As I suspect that I am one of the people that Margery is referring to, I 
feel I should respond.

Rereading my post, I will admit I was a bit harsh in tone.  I apologize 
for this.  It was not my intention to "slam" the pattern or the designer. 
 For what it was meant to be, it is a fine pattern.

The problem, though, lies in what it was meant to be - a pattern meant 
for the average person without any knowledge of historic costume who 
wants an easy-to-make dress that has the right "look" and that will only 
be worn once or twice.

What was bothering/frustrating me (and which lead me to my harsh tone) 
was that some of the less experienced sewers on this this were discussing 
how they could use this pattern as a starting point, and what alterations 
they should do to get something more accurate.  What I was attempting to 
communicate was that if what they want is a gown with an accurate cut 
that they can wear repeatedly for the purposes of historical 
recreation/reenactment, they would be much better served to start with a 
different pattern.  Starting with this pattern would require a lot of 
alteration before a pattern results that is accurate and without 
structural/functional weaknesses.  There are plenty of other patterns out 
there (see paragraph below) that will yield much better results without 
nearly so much work.

Regarding my comment about the cheerleader dress.  I realize now that 
some may have taken this to be a snide remark.  That was not my intent.  
The strange fact is that some of the cheerleading dress patterns out 
there happen to be very basic 6 to 8 panel princess line dresses, which 
can be very useful.  I have a (C)1988 Butterick 6732 (I'm sure the number 
has changed if it is even still available) that I used to draft my first 
cotehardie pattern.  With just a few very simple alterations, it produced 
a very nice gown.


One last comment
>In that earlier discussion it was surmised that the
>photo-stylist likely pinned in the dresses to fit the models as
>closely as the original design sketch showed the fit to be.

If I am reading this correctly, this was in response to my comment about 
the bust dart.  Even if it was a case of the photo-stylist altering the 
final product, I still am strongly of the opinion that this is no excuse. 
 The fact remains that they are still portraying a garment in the catalog 
and on the envelope that is not the garment that you will get if you 
follow the pattern.


Again, my apologies to the designer of this pattern if I offended her.  I 
am not surprised at all to learn that she was hindered by the dictates of 
Simplicity, as I had suspected this was the case.  I am sure that if they 
had let her do what she wanted the resulting pattern would have been 
wonderful.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 22:09:58 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 23:22:58 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Book Review?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/20/99 7:01:11 PM !!!First Boot!!!, rio@austin.rr.com 
writes:

<< Greetings,
 >
 >I was doing some browsing and came across the following book. Would someone
 >who has knowledge of it be willing to give a review?
 >
 > Dress in the Middle Ages
 
 I own this volume and I am still reading through it. I will post a
 review when I have formed an opinion.
 
 Anyone else?
  >>


I too recently purchased this book at the Met., and am working through it.  I 
too have not yet read enough to form a solid opinion, but so-far I like it.

Charles
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 23:38:14 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Speaking of Houpelandes....to pleat or not to pleat
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/20/99 9:46:16 PM !!!First Boot!!!, rima@anet.net writes:

<< I've made a couple from the Past Patterns version, and I was wondering if
 anybody has come up with a clever way of belting these so that you get
 those wonderful even folds that you see in all the art of the time???
 
 Or do I just need to get my  handmaiden to arrange my gown for me ever 20
 minutes?
 
 Rima
 Great on those cool winter nights....LOVE feeling my sleeves drag the
 floor.....
  >>


Actually, those artful folds have to do with how the shoulders are cut in the 
houppelande.  Do you think that "they" had their handmaidens rearrange them 
every twenty minutes?  I don't think so, and this is what prompted me to look 
for some other way to do it.  Those fabu folds that occur in period pictures 
are due to the fact that when one cuts the shoulders, one cuts them like a 
smile or a half circle.  By cutting the shoulders like so, it forces the 
shoulders to move on the bias so to speak and forces all the fabric in to 
your waist and makes lovely folds.  Once I started doing that, I never had to 
fuss with pleating everything into my belt and tugging and pulling every 15 
minutes to rearrange me.  I am totaly indebted to Mistress Caitlin here in 
Ansteorra for helping me out with this...I promise that it works.

Chas

PS  I have tried to explain this before and just managed to confuse 
people...if I did, please email me.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 22:49:21 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Chas wrote:
> are due to the fact that when one cuts the shoulders, one cuts them like a
> smile or a half circle.

Oooh, someone else that does this!  We had a long discussion here about
a year and a half ago when I brought the idea up and did my trial houp
in this pattern -- is your version like the following?  The article has
some pattern drawings.

http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/circle_houp.html

Later on, it was remarked that there are some men's garments in one of
the 1500s tailor books that are made like this, so I felt validated for
my weird idea.  And it works, which is even better.

cv
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Speaking of Houpelandes....to pleat or not to pleat
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/21/99 4:05:06 AM !!!First Boot!!!, cvirtue@thibault.org 
writes:

<< Oooh, someone else that does this!  We had a long discussion here about
 a year and a half ago when I brought the idea up and did my trial houp
 in this pattern -- is your version like the following?  The article has
 some pattern drawings.
 
 http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/circle_houp.html
 
 Later on, it was remarked that there are some men's garments in one of
 the 1500s tailor books that are made like this, so I felt validated for
 my weird idea.  And it works, which is even better.
 
 cv >>


Yes, my patern is very much like that, except I don't use an entire circle.  
I use about a 3/4 circle...however on the shoulders..EXACTLY!!!!  I am glad 
someone else does this, because I have gotten some very strange looks when I 
tell people about it...right Gra/inne..even if they are only virtual ones? 
:-)  As you mentioned...vindication.

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 23:01:33 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: How white was white?
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 00:03:51 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

There's something in seaweed in certain locales in western
England anyway that was used as a bleaching agent.  It was
quite an industry along the coast.   Did I get that right,
or was it the lime?  Can't remember where I saw that!

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Deborah Pulliam
> Sent: Monday, September 20, 1999 11:48 AM
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: How white was white?
>
>
>
> -Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
>
> <<I was told recently that 16th century chemise could not
> possibly have been
> white because there was no such thing as bleach. >>
>
> This doesn't follow. They may not have had chlorine
bleach,
> but chlorine
> bleach isn't the only way to whiten things.
>
> Linen in particular whitens fairly easily just by drying
in the sun.
>
> There's no doubt they had plenty of white linen and white
silk.
>
>
> Deborah
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 23:19:23 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Speaking of Houpelandes....to pleat or not to pleat
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 22:40:19 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

In Elizabeth Birbari's 'Dress in Italian Painting' she has a layout for a
dress that is cut on the bias and not quite a half circle.  She claims that
the bias cut creates a smooth line over the bust to just above the
waistline, where the pleats just naturally begin.  When I looked at the
examples in the paintings my first thought was that the garment resembled a
Hoopelande.

Has anyone tried her method?  And with what result?

Kathlene


----------
> From: Fopdejour1@aol.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Speaking of Houpelandes....to pleat or not to pleat
> Date: Monday, September 20, 1999 10:12 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 9/21/99 4:05:06 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
cvirtue@thibault.org 
> writes:
> 
> << Oooh, someone else that does this!  We had a long discussion here
about
>  a year and a half ago when I brought the idea up and did my trial houp
>  in this pattern -- is your version like the following?  The article has
>  some pattern drawings.
>  
>  http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/circle_houp.html
>  
>  Later on, it was remarked that there are some men's garments in one of
>  the 1500s tailor books that are made like this, so I felt validated for
>  my weird idea.  And it works, which is even better.
>  
>  cv >>
> 
> 
> Yes, my patern is very much like that, except I don't use an entire
circle.  
> I use about a 3/4 circle...however on the shoulders..EXACTLY!!!!  I am
glad 
> someone else does this, because I have gotten some very strange looks
when I 
> tell people about it...right Gra/inne..even if they are only virtual
ones? 
> :-)  As you mentioned...vindication.
> 
> Chas
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 00:10:00 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Danielle's (not mine) underthings: Ever After
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>My question, (again) their are (2) scenes where we see Danielle without
>her dress on.  Changing clothes, and swimming.  She is wearing an
>undergarment the same color as the dress, it appears to be a stiffened
>(not boned) bodice that laces up the side back.  Has anyone ever seen or
>read about such an undergarment?

Although, Italian isn't my specialty I find it extremely unlikey that this
was accurate.  Partly because it seems to be shown as an integral part of
her smock (camisa) and we know what early 16th century Italian smocks
looked like.  And partly because I have never seen any evidence of an early
16th century Italian woman wearing a bodice that wasn't attached to a skirt.

Do you have anything to add Eve?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 23:55:01 1999
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: A Lurker's Questions
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 21:58:11 -0700
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>


You might try this URL: http://home.inreach.com/ivanyc/index.html

Ivan makes several types of ancient lamps, one of which is probably what you
are looking for. They run $15.00 plus $3.00 for shipping.

 Alternatively you might try the Sadigh Gallery, 303 Fifth Avenue, Suite
1603, NY, NY  10016.  URL:  http://www.ipgroup.com/sadigh/artifact.htm.
They sell the real thing along with a certificate of authenticity FOR $39 to
$49.  These little lamps turn up in the hundreds of thousands in the Near
East, and no museum really needs another, but they do need the money they
can bring so they can go on with more important conservation or digs.


Regina Romsey


Question 2: Where might one find a modern reproduction of an ancient clay
oil lamp? I've seen pictures, but do not have a clue who made them. They
look a little like what one might expect Aladdin's lamp to look like, they
use oil or fat for fuel, and have a wick. I think they were made in Greece,
originally.

And no, I'm not explaining what I need these for yet. Let me find out if the
idea works, first! ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 20 23:57:32 1999
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I don't know much about shrouds, but my impression was that they were
just plain lengths of white linen. I believe that there were banners
which the Guilds used to decorate biers and coffins of members, but I
don't think that they were called shrouds. The lamps can be found
occasionally at museum stores, especially at museums that have good Near
East Antiquity departments. 

Karen

On Mon, 20 Sep 1999 15:53:09 PDT "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
writes:
> 
> -Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I missed de-lurking day, but have a couple of questions now. (And 
> I'll send
> in my Procrastinator's Anonymous membership soon, I promise!)
> 
> Question 1: Is there any place I might search for how to make and 
> embellish
> a shroud? Specifically, the kind used in the British Isles called a 
> winding
> sheet. (Hope I've got my terms straight!) IF memory serves, they 
> used to
> make fine ones with embroidery and such, but I need to find some
> documentation.
> 
> Question 2: Where might one find a modern reproduction of an ancient 
> clay
> oil lamp? I've seen pictures, but do not have a clue who made them. 
> They
> look a little like what one might expect Aladdin's lamp to look 
> like, they
> use oil or fat for fuel, and have a wick. I think they were made in 
> Greece,
> originally.
> 
> And no, I'm not explaining what I need these for yet. Let me find 
> out if the
> idea works, first! ;)
> 
> Kate
> ----
> StitchWitch
> 
> Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have 
> forgotten your
> aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________________________
> Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://voicemail.excite.com
> Talk online at http://voicechat.excite.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 02:08:44 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Eureka!/Re: Questions?/Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 00:22:23 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo Marc

I have two words. Thank you (repeated many, many times). You have a 
wonderful site. This is going to be a big help. :-)

Also, you know Kass McGann. I read her article on the Shinrone gown in 
Tournaments Illuminated (SCA publication) and I have been trying to find her 
ever since.

The historic clothing reconstruction that you, Ms. McGann, and other folks 
on this list, are doing is something that I have wanted to do since I was a 
kid.

I was wondering what kind of a degree/education is needed to pursue a career 
in this. I have an AA in cultural anthropology, an AS in library and 
information sciences, a BA in cultural anthropology (both anthro degrees 
have an emphasis in archaeology), and, after a twenty-year hiatus from 
school, one year's worth of study towards an MFA in costume design. I'm 
currently taking a break in my studies until I can figure out a way to 
change my emphasis from design to that of historic clothing study and 
reconstruction. Up until now, I didn't know where to go for information on 
this.

I have corresponded briefly with the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne after 
seeing a section on reconstructed 13th century leather shoes on their web 
site. They sent me one of their catalogs. However, I don't think they have 
the degree I need. The closest one they have is kind of an all-encompassing 
degree on museum exhibit management.

Can any of you help me on this? You are most welcome to use my private 
e-mail to correspond with me.

Thanks much

Lonna


>From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: Questions?/Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
>Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 09:49:45 -0500
>
>
>-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
><"L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>>
> >Sorry to interrupt your correspondence, but this is something that I am 
>very
> >interested in and I would like to learn more. Are there any pictures of
> >these cotes? Or any exhibits that are open to the public? Can you suggest
> >some books that I might read? I know I'm asking a lot of questions, but 
>this
> >is how I learn. :-)
> >
> >Any information given would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Certainly.  All the information I currently have, including sources, and so
>forth are at
>http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/bockhome.html.
>This changes as I learn more.
>
>Marc
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 02:43:27 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 01:02:00 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: How white was white
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Charlene B. wrote:

> Liquid bluing is still available (thing "blue-haired ladies" who use bluing
> to take the dingy yellow cast out of white hair.  

Actually, bluing agents are most commonly found in dry laundry detergent. They
are used to fake the eye into thinking that fabric is whiter than it really is
(with the added benefit of making them florescent under black light).

The reason old ladies have blue hair is that as they age, the color receptors
in their brain see the blue hair as white, when in reality it's not. They
think they're dying their hair white.

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 03:14:46 1999
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 <Pine.GSO.4.10.9909201556160.18245-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 00:45:01 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Early 16th cent German reference
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>
>I've been reading the discussion on 16th century German underpinnings with
>interest--thanks for all the practical information!  I have a reference to
>pass along for bookaholics, I mean those who like to research.  It is not a
>book that I own, but it does have a great number of 16th century German
>portraits and woodcuts/etchings, etc.  The text is in German, and I'm sure
>it is very informative (wish my German were better!).
>
>_Textiler Hausrat
>Kleidung und Haustextilen in Nurnberg von 1500-1650_
>by
>Jutta Zander-Seidel
>published in 1990
>ISBN 3-422-06067-7

I have the book. Its great.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 03:15:02 1999
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Early 16th cent German Corsetry-
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>> Calling this look the "German Tudor" silhouette is like fingers on a
>> chalkboard to me.  In Germany, they didn't have much at all to do with
>> this Henry VIII fellow.
>
>They might not have anything to do with each other except that the
>clothing in Germany and England for men was very similar during this
>part of the 16th C.

All over Europe they seem pretty similar.  Some excellent details that
apply to both Spanish and German's men's costuming can also be found in
"Hispanic Costuming" by Ruth Matilda Anderson.

>Women, on the other hand, were quite different. (Look at the
>differences between Anne of Cleves and the other queens of HVIII.)

Agreed.

Julie Adams


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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>   Does anyone know any good resource for corsetry worn under  the puff
>and slash type gowns.  Was it any different from the other  countries
>corsetry?  (I have seen some reference to the Italian style of  dress of
>the period that said corsetry may not have been worn.)  I will be  working
>off Period Patternst # 40, the only reference to undergarments it makes
>is that the silhouette slightly flattened the bust and that it should be
>worn  over a shift.

Are you talking about that German Renn pattern? I don't know the number.  I
assume so by your title...

There are examples of fitted undergowns in Italian costuming that provide
enough support, and there is a lot of overlap in Italian and German
costuming. As far as I have found, in the Holy Roman Empire (German 16th c
Costume), there is no documentation for a separate corset.... BUT...  If
you look at the tapestries from only slightly earlier in the northern end
of the empire (the Netherlands) and if you look at some of the gown
sillouettes, it is clear that *sometimes* German women wore some kind of
structured garment to keep a clean line on their garment.  This sillouette
never looks quite like the conical Tudor, but has a free bustline and
rounded waist.  People have tried German Renn dresses over Victorian
corsets and had it look perfect.  Looking at the "Book of Trades" by Jost
Amman, you see an interesting example of a dress inside out, it is slightly
later square-necked bodice, but it almost looks like some kind of cup
support is built in that goes under and around the bust.  But the problem
with the "placket front" popular Saxon gown that is common in paintings by
Lucas Cranach, is that there are many pictures showing them with the
placket flapping open and down, unconnected to the bodice on both sides,
bare-breasted in the "Lucretia" pose. In these paintings, the placket is
soft, flimsy and definitely NOT boned, yet there is no undergarment AT all
(no chemise either).  The paintings are done my many artists (though most
available in books are by Cranach). What does this mean?

My guess is that the gown was probably made to fit over some kind of
corselette or fitted undergarment, and is being worn by the person for the
"sitting" of the painting without her undergarments so she can show her
bare breast...  And these paintings are all of young hard-bodied youthful
ladies of high firm breast and no extra flesh...  Those of us who have
tried making many variations and test models of this gown find that those
with no "extra flesh" can bone the bodice and placket to some degree and
get a decent sillouette of it, but I doubt that the real garments were made
that way due to the consistancy of the soft placket in the paintings. Those
with a bit more of a "sumptuous" figure will need to do some kind of
structured underpinnings or the lacings on the placket will not lay
correctly and will fall into the "natural" folds one's body makes when
bending and moving.

On folk gowns in the Nuremburg Bayerisches museum there are gowns of almost
identical styles (different fabrics though) from about 150 yrs later that
we are talking. These gowns have completely separate plackets that hook
into the inside of the bodice. The invisible lacing is hooked through a
sideways "S" kind of lacing hook just inside the edge of the bodice.  I
have not found this kind of hook currently, so I use a strap of eyelets
sewn just inside the bodice edge instead.

If its the pattern I am thinking, the bustline is cut rather oddly and the
waist is set for a VERY long waisted person. Double check that the finished
bodice should be exactly at your waist or even up to 1-1.5" above your
natural waist. I would smooth out the sharp curve in the bodice around the
bust.  The skirt is also rather skimpy in fabric and is cut as a rectangle.
The gown will look more correct if you cut the skirt as a circle or heavily
gored skirt and knife pleat, box pleat or organ-pipe pleat the skirt onto a
tape (that should then be handsewn inside the bodice and placket..  While
cartridge pleating is not really correct for an early 16th c German, it can
give a similar look to the organ pipe pleating if it is done shallowly on a
circle cut skirt with tapes sewn inside to hold the skirts in place.
Anyway, few people will really notice if its cartridge pleated rectangular
section, and most people do it that way (because its WAY easier to do
banding on the flat with a machine, but that is not true if you are
handsewing....) Cartridge pleating leaves a "shelf" at the waist which is
not present with the earlier 16th c gowns and ends up wasting a LOT of
fabric compared to a carefully calculated circle.

And example of how to do the lovely organ pipe pleating shown in many
Cranach gowns can be found in History of Costume by Blanche Payne (but ONLY
in the FIRST Edition with the pattern graphs in it). Kohler and the second
edition show pictures of the extant "bases" done in organ pipe pleats.
There is a garment shown in Jost Amman's Book of Trades, in I believe it is
the tailor's shop, where a gown is being hung so the pleats are set. Tapes
are tacked to the inside of the skirts to keep the pleats in place.

You can see some of my basecoats done using organ pipe pleating and a few
decent placket front gowns at my website. Warning, my women's costume
guidelines is about 4 yrs old and outdated in some aspects - new research
overcame the info..  http://www.znet.com/~savaskan/germans/

Julie Adams


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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 09:30:43 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

L.L. Johnson wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.c
> 
> 
>
> 
> I was wondering what kind of a degree/education is needed to pursue a career
> in this. I have an AA in cultural anthropology, an AS in library and
> information sciences, a BA in cultural anthropology (both anthro degrees
> have an emphasis in archaeology), and, after a twenty-year hiatus from
> school, one year's worth of study towards an MFA in costume design. I'm
> currently taking a break in my studies until I can figure out a way to
> change my emphasis from design to that of historic clothing study and
> reconstruction. Up until now, I didn't know where to go for information on
> this.
> 
> I have corresponded briefly with the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne after
> seeing a section on reconstructed 13th century leather shoes on their web
> site. They sent me one of their catalogs. However, I don't think they have
> the degree I need. The closest one they have is kind of an all-encompassing
> degree on museum exhibit management.
> 
> Can any of you help me on this? You are most welcome to use my private
> e-mail to correspond with me.
> 
> Thanks much
> 
> Lonna
> 
>Unfortunately in England there are no practical research degree courses. 

The Courtaulds have an MA in costume  course where most of the published
costume historians went but this is academic not practical and is very
difficult to get into. 

The london school of fashion and wimbledon art college have theatre
costume courses which are practical but only academic to a certain
degree I often take placement students from these colleges and the
course are very good particularly Wimbledon's. 

Wimbledon were talking some years ago of setting up a practical research
degree course but I don't think it came off. I followed this with
interest for a while as I have also been looking for something like this
for many years. All my research comes with the jobs I get in and extra
curricular projects I decide to do for myself which means unfortunately
I don't have time to do much of any other kind, much as I would love to
although after 15 years I have learnt rather a lot, as whilst I am
researching and writing articles I can't be making a living sewing so
it's a catch 22.
Decide which you would rather do sew or research for your actual
occupation and then take your course from there the rest will come as
you need it. 

Dawn

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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

K & J Hopkins wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> 
> In Elizabeth Birbari's 'Dress in Italian Painting' she has a layout for a
> dress that is cut on the bias and not quite a half circle.  She claims that
> the bias cut creates a smooth line over the bust to just above the
> waistline, where the pleats just naturally begin.  When I looked at the
> examples in the paintings my first thought was that the garment resembled a
> Hoopelande.
> 
> Has anyone tried her method?  And with what result?

Yes I have years ago and it works beautifully. I also cut my
houpplenades on a circular system it's the only way to gat the bulk at
the bottom without spoiling the chest area and a lovely swing at the
bottom. Contrary to popular opinion Madeline Vionnet did not invent the
bias cut I have a 13thc hose pattern which shows differently, she just
brought it into the 20th century.

Dawn
> 
> Kathlene
> 
> ----------
> > From: Fopdejour1@aol.com
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: Re: H-COST: Speaking of Houpelandes....to pleat or not to pleat
> > Date: Monday, September 20, 1999 10:12 PM
> >
> >
> > -Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com
> >
> > In a message dated 9/21/99 4:05:06 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
> cvirtue@thibault.org
> > writes:
> >
> > << Oooh, someone else that does this!  We had a long discussion here
> about
> >  a year and a half ago when I brought the idea up and did my trial houp
> >  in this pattern -- is your version like the following?  The article has
> >  some pattern drawings.
> >
> >  http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/circle_houp.html
> >
> >  Later on, it was remarked that there are some men's garments in one of
> >  the 1500s tailor books that are made like this, so I felt validated for
> >  my weird idea.  And it works, which is even better.
> >
> >  cv >>
> >
> >
> > Yes, my patern is very much like that, except I don't use an entire
> circle.
> > I use about a 3/4 circle...however on the shoulders..EXACTLY!!!!  I am
> glad
> > someone else does this, because I have gotten some very strange looks
> when I
> > tell people about it...right Gra/inne..even if they are only virtual
> ones?
> > :-)  As you mentioned...vindication.
> >
> > Chas
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 06:23:58 -0400
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: White
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>Actually, bluing agents are most commonly found in dry laundry detergent.
They
are used to fake the eye into thinking that fabric is whiter than it really
is
(with the added benefit of making them florescent under black light).

The things that make white appear very bright are OBAs(optical brightening
agents) they are a dye basically, you get all shades I used to colour match
them. They are certainly in many UK washing powders and on most whites and
yes glow under Ultra Violet light. They take in light and reflect back at a
different wavelength to make it seem brighter.

>The reason old ladies have blue hair is that as they age, the color
receptors
in their brain see the blue hair as white, when in reality it's not. They
think they're dying their hair white.

I wonder why its called a Blue rinse then ?

Old eyes see things yellower than younger eyes.... who know which eyes see
it correctly ?

Mel
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Last Day
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 08:33:12 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

 A quick reminder... today is the last day to send me pictures for the
Online Costume Ball '99.  Go to
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm  for directions.
The Ball will begin Sept. 30.

Later... Penny (Keeper of the Ball)
http://www.costumegallery.com

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: How white was white
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Bluing works by covering or "counteracting" the yellow, thus making whites 
look whiter.  Fluorescent whiteners, on the other hand, absorb invisible 
ultraviolet radiation and emit it as visible light, making the fabric look 
brighter.  (Betty Smith and Ira Block, Textiles in Perspective.)  I realize 
we are getting way off topic here; fluorescent whiteners are definitely 
modern, but I wanted to set the record straight.
Ann Wass 
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<The Courtaulds have an MA in costume  course where most of the published
costume historians went but this is academic not practical >>

Keep in mind all of the Courtauld programs are history of art courses,
which is quite different from a history course. Not better or worse, just
different. Depends on what you're interested in, and what you plan to do.

Winchester has an excellent program.



Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 08:07:42 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9909201556160.18245-100000@kirk.dnaco.net> <37E6E37A.EC875C5A@inreach.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Early 16th cent German Corsetry-
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 09:31:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

> I know that people use corsets for this style but the correct silhouette
> can be achieved by other methods.  The corsets of other countries during
> the same time period won't give the right look.

Actually an Italian Ren corset does give the right look.  The desired effect
is the same, slightly flattened and stuffed uni-boob.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 08:17:48 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Danielle's (not mine) underthings: Ever After
In-Reply-To: <3.0.1.32.19990921001000.009c0a80@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


I think the close-fitting supportive undergarment which Danielle is seen
wearing would be closest to a "farsinetto", which is basically a
supportive, sleeveless undergarment worn under gowns in 15th century
Italy.  That's about all I know about it. An expert on the subject
mentioned it on this list some time ago...Carole Frick?  I think it was
she.

Drea


 On Tue,
21 Sep 1999, Danielle Nunn wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> >My question, (again) their are (2) scenes where we see Danielle without
> >her dress on.  Changing clothes, and swimming.  She is wearing an
> >undergarment the same color as the dress, it appears to be a stiffened
> >(not boned) bodice that laces up the side back.  Has anyone ever seen or
> >read about such an undergarment?
> 
> Although, Italian isn't my specialty I find it extremely unlikey that this
> was accurate.  Partly because it seems to be shown as an integral part of
> her smock (camisa) and we know what early 16th century Italian smocks
> looked like.  And partly because I have never seen any evidence of an early
> 16th century Italian woman wearing a bodice that wasn't attached to a skirt.
> 
> Do you have anything to add Eve?
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 08:23:10 1999
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Subject: H-COST: German costuming books
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Thanks for the tip on Textiler Hausrat!  I just ordered it.

Does anyone on the list know of other German works on the subject of
renaissance costume?  Or medieval costume, for that matter?  I found a
listing for the book "Kleidung und Waffen der Frueh und Hochgotik
(1150-1320)" (Clothing and Weapons of the Early and Middle Gothic age) by
Ulrich Lehnert, and was wondering if anyone had read it or knew how
worthwhile a purchase it would be.

Thanks,

Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 08:51:30 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 09:06:04 -0500
From: Gail Smith <gks@execpc.com>
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-Poster: Gail Smith <gks@execpc.com>

According to several dictionaries that I consulted, a century is simply
a period of 100 years--ANY 100 years.  So if the hype-mongers wish to
consider this century as "the 100 years that start with 19xx", it would
follow that the century ends in 1999.  How you would like to relate it
to the millennium is up to you.  I, for one, will be celebrating the new
year and the change to 2000 just as any New Year's Eve--at home with my family.

In conclusion then, there is no one RIGHT way to count centuries.  I
understand your explanation, but it assumes that a century must be
started with the 'established' date for the birth of Christ, and
according to the dictionary definitions, that is not the correct meaning
of "century."
--
--
Gail Smith, Cybr@rian
Edison Regional Gifted Center, Chicago
gsmith@edison.cps.k12.il.us  or gails@flash.net
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Yesterday is History............Tomorrow is a Mystery
Today is a Gift................That’s why they call it The Present.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 09:11:18 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 10:25:06 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Early 16th Cent German cartridge pleats vs organ pipe
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com


I was a bit confused to hear that these were organ pipe pleated not cartridge 
pleated, I had hear from some authority somewhere (can't recall who anymore) 
that organ pipe pleats were just large cartridge pleats.  If this isn't true 
could someone please try to explain what they are?  Thanks.

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 09:11:47 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Danielle's (not mine) underthings: Ever After
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

----------
>  Partly because it seems to be shown as an integral part of
> her smock (camisa) and we know what early 16th century Italian smocks
> looked like.  

In the scene where she is changing her clothes, preparing to buy back the
servant, you can see the back of the garment. It is unlaced, and obviously
separate from the chemise.

>And partly because I have never seen any evidence of an early
> 16th century Italian woman wearing a bodice that wasn't attached to a
skirt.

As Michelle pointed out, Janet Arnold mentions,  that underneath the
Eleanora of Toledo satin bodice is a red velvet bodice or 'bodies' that
closed in the front with hooks and eyes.  Page 40, illus. #286.  (Thanks
again Michelle)

It would be neat to see the color version of the photo.

I also think it would be neat to talk to the costume designers of 'costume'
movies.  Find out where they got their ideas, pick their brains.  I would
especially like to talk to the designer of the movie 'Artemisia'.  Fabulous
Italian!!

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 09:26:58 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Latest issue of People Magazine
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 10:37:56 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

The Sept. 20 issue of People magazine is devoted to fashion.  In this issue
is the Best & Worst Dressed article is featured.  But there are other good
articles... "Hollywood Heyday" has legendary leading ladies recall the
styles that defined their images and their times.  But the treasure article
is "A Century of Style", a double page photo spread of Sandy Schreier's
private vintage collection.  She has over 15,000 items in her collection and
is the author of Hollywood Dressed and Undressed: A Century of Cinema.   The
magazine ends with the funniest article, "Many Me".  This article is about
two or more stars who have been photographed wearing the same outfit (my
nightmare).  What is really a giggle, is that the outfit may look great on
one star, but really bad on another.

Gee, this is the first current magazine, I have read from cover to cover in
a long time.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 10:42:39 -0400
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------9CAEFA6F77BBCCB322C6367F
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Kate/ Stitchwitch@excite.com wrote: Where might one find a modern
reproduction of an ancient clay oil lamp?

I have one that I bought in Rome at one of the Catacomb gift shops. I
don't have any information how to contact them, but thought it might
help!

Regards,

Liz Jones

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 09:33:16 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Early 16th Cent German cartridge pleats vs organ pipe
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

In the book, 'The Art of Manipulating Fabric', 'cartridge' pleating looks
just like a the fabric or leather piece that is sewn on a belt, making up a
'cartridge belt'. (I hope that makes sense)  On the other hand, 'butted'
cartridge pleating is what I associate with costuming.

As far as organ pleats, I am also interested in how they work.

Kathlene

----------
> From: Marionetta@aol.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Early 16th Cent German cartridge pleats vs organ
pipe
> Date: Tuesday, September 21, 1999 8:25 AM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Marionetta@aol.com
> 
> 
> I was a bit confused to hear that these were organ pipe pleated not
cartridge 
> pleated, I had hear from some authority somewhere (can't recall who
anymore) 
> that organ pipe pleats were just large cartridge pleats.  If this isn't
true 
> could someone please try to explain what they are?  Thanks.
> 
> Loren Dearborn
> marionetta@aol.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>,
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Subject: RE: H-COST: White
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-Poster: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>


> 
> >The reason old ladies have blue hair is that as they age, the color
> receptors
> in their brain see the blue hair as white, when in reality 
> it's not. They
> think they're dying their hair white.
> 

Actually, old ladies aren't as dim as all that.  Many modern shampoos
advertise themselves as adding a blue tint, because most people find bluish
white hair more attractive than yellowish white hair.  It's a fashion choice
like any other.

Grey-haired but not yet an old lady,

Betsy Perry
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

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Julie and Melanie and anyone else who has seen the book  "Textiler
Hausrat": How good is it? I can muddle my way through some German, but
not enough to read too much. Therefore, I would be buying it for the
pictures only. I am a costume historian/research type of person, but
wanted to be sure it was worth the money. What makes this so special?
Are there woodcuts and other extant pieces in it that are not seen in
other sources? Please advise - it looks tempting!

Liz Jones
ljones@us.oracle.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 10:22:21 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
In-Reply-To: <001601bf03cf$30ccb960$fb3d1d26@buck>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Rolled pleats (also called stacked pleats, I found out) are basically a
series of fabric rolls.  You pinch a piece of fabric up, roll it two or
three times, and flatten it down.  Here's a diagram:


     ______________
     | __________  |
     | |_______  | |
     |_________| | |
_________________| |___________

Drea

On Mon, 20 Sep 1999, Dean Quackenbush wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
> 
> > Drea, what are rolled pleats?
> 
> Organ-pipe pleats are another name for what I believe she is referring to.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
> To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 20, 1999 4:53 PM
> Subject: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
> 
> 
> >
> > -Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
> >
> >
> > Drea Leed posted:
> >
> > >I haven't seen anything regarding bumrolls, either...but I've found that
> > >when I use a small & loosely stuffed one under a skirt pleated with
> rolled
> > >pleats, it looks smack out of a Cranach painting.
> >
> > Drea, what are rolled pleats?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > Gail DeCamp
> >
> >
> > Dogs come when you call them. Cats have answering machines.
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Also, you know Kass McGann. I read her article on the Shinrone gown in 
>Tournaments Illuminated (SCA publication) and I have been trying to find her 
>ever since.

She can be reached at kass@adviceco.com

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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-Poster: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>

aleed wrote:

> Rolled pleats (also called stacked pleats, I found out) are basically a
> series of fabric rolls.  You pinch a piece of fabric up, roll it two or
> three times, and flatten it down.  Here's a diagram:

I think I want to try this for the gown I'm working on (1530s
English--first time I'm making one--needs to be done in time for
coronation this Saturday--right!!). Anyway, once you flatten down the
pleats to you sew this "right sides together" to the bodice or butt it
onto a band (like cartridge pleating?) and sew the band to the bodice or
what? The fabric I'm working with is a fine dress-weight wool twill. The
pattern is roughly the Jane Seymour or Kateryn Parr (the one formerly
known as Jane Grey). Does it work well with rectangular panels?

- Hope

P.S. And Drea--put me down as another happy "corset-generator"
customer--it worked beautifully!
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 12:24:24 -0400
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

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Rebecca Schmitt wrote: If I were to be starting a costuming library,
what books would be "must haves"? My areas of interest at this moment
are Elizabethan, early Crusades
in Jerusalem, and Edwardian (probably enough for now!)"

Here are a few from my library:

Must Have - specific to Elizabethan/late 16th century costume

Janet Arnold: Queen Elizabeth's Wardobe Unlock'd
Janet Arnold: Patterns of Fashion 1580-1620 (dates unsure)
Jane Ashelford: Costume in the Age of Elizabeth I
Jane Ashelford: Visual History of Costume: The 16th century
Nora Waugh: Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900
Nora Waugh: Cut of Women's Clothes 1600-1930 (dates unsure)
RW Trump: Drafting and Constructing a Simple Doublet and Trunkhose of
the Spanish Renaissance (very hands on)

Good for Art:

Roy Strong: Various textx - I have the English Renaissance Miniature
text


General "good" costume texts with pertinent information

Blanche Payne: History of Costume
Milia Davenport: The Book of Costume
Francois Boucher: 20,000 Years of Fashion

Hope this helps!

Liz Jones

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 11:15:03 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:37 AM 09/21/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>
>Rolled pleats (also called stacked pleats, I found out) are basically a
>series of fabric rolls.  You pinch a piece of fabric up, roll it two or
>three times, and flatten it down.  Here's a diagram:
>

I used a variation of this for my new Flemish gown (pictures on the website
in a few days) .  What I did was to make a flat pleat, then return to the
start point  and make another flat pleat in the opposite direction, tucking
it in under the first one.  Clear as mud, you say?  I'll try to include a
sketch, too, as ASKI  is beyond me.  

It looks like a more rounded, fuller version of a box pleat, and uses a 5:1
ratio.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 11:22:05 1999
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cc: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Subject: H-COST: Gloves
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-Poster: ches@io.com

I would like to put out a general call for commercial glove patterns.
Please look at your personal collections of commercial patterns and see if
there are any glove patterns in there. If you are willing to share a
photocopy of it I will compensate you but mainly I am trying to compile a
listing for my glove web page of all the known patterns and the
designers of the patterns. Thanks!

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 11:39:47 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <37E7B137.50E0C381@us.oracle.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 17:53:04 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Amongst many , there is one book that I find very useful for hasty
reference; with such a bad memeory its important to me.
John Peacocks -Costume 1066-1990; It's just pictures with overwritten short
notes ( but it is only UK in most parts) 130?pages at 8 illustrations per
page, broken down into the relevant periods It's simplistic but quick.
A major jewel in my collection is a very thin ex-school book- Iris Brooke
James Laver; English Costume of the 18th Century; again a picture  plus a
page of notes on each opening; but it breaks the new fashions down into 5
year periods or less; It covers changes in cuff fashions as well as wig
styles and neckties. It helps me make sense of a very complicated century;
Published initially in 1931;the foreword contains my most favourite of
quotes:_---
"Costume is not a triviality; it is the visible raiment of the soul"
May be of some interest to our US  friends
Just a word of warning for people about to invest in the Janet Arnold books;
The Patterns of Fashion volume numbers left me a bit confused and led to me
getting the wrongs ones ; I wanted them all but was only  buying as I could
spend.
Dave


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 11:51:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 09:35:57 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: White
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

When I worked for Max Factor in their Foreign Dept - one of my many past
lives - we used to get lectures by the make-up artists and they claimed that
the reason why Older women often wear so much gaudy make-up is that they get
tired of seeing their face in the mirror - day after day, year after year -
and the feel they want a *lift* so they put on redder lipstick or blacker
liner or lots of rouge.  
I can remember my mother going through the same thing and she would wear
really BRIGHT clothing with lots of beads and jewelry and bright red nails
and lipstick.  I don't remember her doing that when I was younger.
Older women's attitude towards their hair is somewhat the same.  They do not
see it as *blue* but as *bright*.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>
>To: "'h-costume@indra.com'"
<h-costume@indra.com>,"INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com"
<h-costume-digest@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: H-COST: White
>Date: Tue, Sep 21, 1999, 7:55 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>
>
>
>> 
>> >The reason old ladies have blue hair is that as they age, the color
>> receptors
>> in their brain see the blue hair as white, when in reality 
>> it's not. They
>> think they're dying their hair white.
>> 
>
>Actually, old ladies aren't as dim as all that.  Many modern shampoos
>advertise themselves as adding a blue tint, because most people find bluish
>white hair more attractive than yellowish white hair.  It's a fashion
choice
>like any other.
>
>Grey-haired but not yet an old lady,
>
>Betsy Perry
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 12:16:18 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 13:28:31 -0400
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

Sorry for the stupid attachments on my earlier posts. This is a test to
ensure I get rid of them! Thanks....

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 12:27:11 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 17:52:03 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Hope H. Dunlap wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
> 
> There's something in seaweed in certain locales in western
> England anyway that was used as a bleaching agent.  It was
> quite an industry along the coast.   Did I get that right,
> or was it the lime?  Can't remember where I saw that!
> 
> Hope H. Dunlap
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
> [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Deborah Pulliam
> > Sent: Monday, September 20, 1999 11:48 AM
> > To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> > Subject: H-COST: How white was white?
> >
> >
> >
> > -Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
> >
> > <<I was told recently that 16th century chemise could not
> > possibly have been
> > white because there was no such thing as bleach. >>
> >
> > This doesn't follow. They may not have had chlorine
> bleach,
> > but chlorine
> > bleach isn't the only way to whiten things.
> >
> > Linen in particular whitens fairly easily just by drying
> in the sun.
> >
> > There's no doubt they had plenty of white linen and white
> silk.
> >
> >
> > Deborah
> >
> >
> >I think it's probably lime you are thinking of.

I was once told by Janet Arnold that it was fashionable during the late
Elizabethan period to have non white ruffs and indigo or saffron was
added to the starch to colour them also something for red but I can't
remember off the top of my head what that was, possibly alkanet root
which was also used for rouge and lipstain as an alternative to red
lead.

I have tried it when I made a set for a museum and you need a lot of
saffron to get a decent colour so it was obviously also some kind of
prestige thing due to cost.

Dawn
> ____________________________________________________________
> _____
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

ches@io.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: ches@io.com
> 
> I would like to put out a general call for commercial glove patterns.
> Please look at your personal collections of commercial patterns and see if
> there are any glove patterns in there. If you are willing to share a
> photocopy of it I will compensate you but mainly I am trying to compile a
> listing for my glove web page of all the known patterns and the
> designers of the patterns. Thanks!
> My set of glove patterns came from a leather company in Liverpool called AL Maugham I will try and find the address. I bought them about 20 years ago and have used them constantly but I am sure you can still get them from the company. When I make period gloves as opposed to the modern ones I just adapt the pattern accordingly using examples in Diderot's encyclopedia and also measurements etc from photographs I took from the V&A's glove collection and the Spence collection of gloves at Bath. I'd be very interested in seeing your web page as gloves are my pet thing. It's just unfortunate that most people see them as last minute often unecessary additions so aren't prepared to pay realistic prices for them

Dawn
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> ches@io.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909201649.KAA13177@net.indra.com> <37E790CE.DAE77AA3@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re:OT Century/millennium
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 13:45:13 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<<In conclusion then, there is no one RIGHT way to count centuries.  I
understand your explanation, but it assumes that a century must be
started with the 'established' date for the birth of Christ, and
according to the dictionary definitions, that is not the correct meaning
of "century."

Sorry, to keep this off the subject thread going, but...

I wanted to point out that you looked up "century" in the dictionary.  =
You are correct...a century is 100 years.  However, we are not talking =
about the definition of the word century in general, but of a specific =
century.  Try looking up 20th century (or any other specific century for =
that matter).  You will find that the 20th century runs from 1901 =
through 2000.  The 21st century begins on 2001.   A millennium, as you =
know is 1000 years, but looking up the second millennium, you should =
find 1001 through 2000.  The new millennium begins on 2001. =20

See the Greenwich site:
http://millennium.greenwich2000.com/

IMHO, it is ludicrous to think that that you can count the centuries or =
millenniums either way and still be correct.  Can you imagine how =
confusing our history books would be, if some people counted a century =
one way and others another way?   In this particular case, there is a =
right way and a wrong way. =20

I fully agree that all this 2000 hype is driving everyone crazy, but if =
its not one thing its another.  I agree with one poster that the hype is =
a big money ploy or an excuse for a big party.  I will be glad when its =
over.

Erica Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!


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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&lt;&lt;In conclusion then, there is no one RIGHT =
way to count=20
centuries.&nbsp; I<BR>understand your explanation, but it assumes that a =
century=20
must be<BR>started with the 'established' date for the birth of Christ,=20
and<BR>according to the dictionary definitions, that is not the correct=20
meaning<BR>of "century."<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Sorry, to keep this off the subject thread going, but...</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I wanted to point out that you looked up "century" in the =
dictionary.&nbsp;=20
You are correct...a century is 100 years.&nbsp; However, we are not =
talking=20
about the definition of the word century in general, but of a specific=20
century.&nbsp; Try looking up 20th century (or any other specific =
century for=20
that matter).&nbsp; You will find that the 20th century runs from 1901 =
through=20
2000.&nbsp; The 21st century begins on 2001.&nbsp;  A millennium, as you =
know is=20
1000 years, but looking up the second millennium, you should find 1001 =
through=20
2000.&nbsp; The new millennium begins on 2001.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>See the Greenwich site:</DIV>
<DIV><A=20
href=3D"http://millennium.greenwich2000.com/">http://millennium.greenwich=
2000.com/</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>IMHO, it is ludicrous to think that that you can count the =
centuries or=20
millenniums either way and still be correct.&nbsp; Can you imagine how =
confusing=20
our history books would be, if some people counted a century one way and =
others=20
another way?&nbsp;&nbsp; In this particular case, there is a right way =
and a=20
wrong way.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I fully agree that all this 2000 hype is driving everyone crazy, =
but if its=20
not one thing its another.&nbsp; I agree with one poster that the hype =
is a big=20
money ploy or an excuse for a big party.&nbsp; I will be glad when its=20
over.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Erica Pence<BR>Robes of Antiquity<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.robesofantiquity.com">www.robesofantiquity.com</A><BR>=
Online=20
store coming soon!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BF0437.87C65E20--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 12:33:01 1999
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Having just waded through a week's worth of digests after a few days away, I'm a bit late for the thread on metallic embroidery, but here goes anyway...
I remember reading somewhere that a pastime for ladies during the Napoleonic Wars was using a special device for shredding old epaulettes etc. from uniforms, in order to extract the gold for recycling. And we think recycling is a new idea!

BTW, can I repeat the plea to those people who like to include the sender's message in their reply, to edit it down to the essential bits? Postings containing whole discussion threads don't half clutter up the digests! Thank you.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>> Drea, what are rolled pleats?
>
>Organ-pipe pleats are another name for what I believe she is referring to.

I've never heard them called that. They aren't rolled when you make them.
There is a pleat seen in some German Renn paintings that is like a
cartridge pleat, but the back part is rolled under for each pleat, however.

Juliana


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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>Chas wrote:
>> are due to the fact that when one cuts the shoulders, one cuts them like a
>> smile or a half circle.
>
>Oooh, someone else that does this!

I've done one like this too. Works well. Too keep the pleats where I want
them, I put in some stay tapes inside to hold the pleats in place similar
to organpipe pleating (which is used in this era too.) The pleats come out
pretty good with little effort.

Julie Adams



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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re:  Rolled pleats?
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


I did rolled pleats with a medium almost coat-weight wool, lined with a
dense linen. Both were folded over to the inside at the top of the skirt. 
Needless to say, the finished pleats were pretty bulky. I whipstitched the
pleats together, and then placed the right side of the skirt against the
right side of a finished bodice and whipstitched them together with silk
buttonhole twist thread.

 If you have thinner pleats, you might try to sandwich them between
the bodice outer fabric & lining.  I know the Shinrone gown, which had a
pleated skirt attached to a bodice, had the bodice finished at the bottom
before the skirt was attached. Does anyone know how the skirts were sewn
to the bodices in Arnold's book?  I looked through, but couldn't find any
mention of specific attachment technique.

My skirt was rectangular, and it worked very well.  The tubular pleats
went with the weave of the fabric.  I don't know how well it would work
with a gored skirt.

Someone, on this list I believe, once mentioned coming across a tudor
inventory which specified "stuffing for pleats" on a Tudor gown. I'd love
to find them again and wangle out the details of this inventory.  :)
Anyway, a fine layer of batting between the outer fabric and lining of a
skirt would certainly bulk up the pleats quite nicely.

Glad to know the corset pattern generator worked for you.
Let us know how your gown turns out--It sounds beautiful!

Drea

> I think I want to try this for the gown I'm working on (1530s
> English--first time I'm making one--needs to be done in time for
> coronation this Saturday--right!!). Anyway, once you flatten down the
> pleats to you sew this "right sides together" to the bodice or butt it
> onto a band (like cartridge pleating?) and sew the band to the bodice or
> what? The fabric I'm working with is a fine dress-weight wool twill. The
> pattern is roughly the Jane Seymour or Kateryn Parr (the one formerly
> known as Jane Grey). Does it work well with rectangular panels?
> 
> - Hope
> 
> P.S. And Drea--put me down as another happy "corset-generator"
> customer--it worked beautifully!
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
In-Reply-To: <l03130302b40d7aa4e3d7@[207.167.66.153]>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


OK, I'm showing my ignorance here--what, exactly, are organ pipe pleats?
I've been told they were pleats formed by circular gores that were
ungathered at the waist edge and kept uniform at the bottom with stay
tapes.  I've heard that they are rolled pleats, and someone else has
likened them to the pleats that Margo referred to in her recent post, that
she was using on her Flemish gown.  I've also heard that they didn't
really exist, and were a modern interpretation of other kinds of pleating.
Juliana just referred you yet another kind of pleat in German paintings,
which I don't quite get.

Explanations, anyone?  

Thanks,

Drea the confused


> 
> 
> >> Drea, what are rolled pleats?
> >
> >Organ-pipe pleats are another name for what I believe she is referring to.
> 

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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------D4560DB26BAA51B17D1BBD4D
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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> The things that make white appear very bright are OBAs(optical brightening
> agents) they are a dye basically, you get all shades I used to colour match
> them. They are certainly in many UK washing powders and on most whites and
> yes glow under Ultra Violet light.
>
The brighteners are part of every modern detergent except for those
intended for couloured clothing.The use of  blueing got abolished after
the invention of the brighteners because of the indigo`s disadvantage
that it could dye the clothing blue if not carefully handled.
I work in the detergent industry, that`s where my knowledge in this
field comes from ;-).


> >The reason old ladies have blue hair is that as they age, the color
> receptors
> in their brain see the blue hair as white, when in reality it's not. They
> think they're dying their hair white.
>
I took this to be a joke ;-)...I know that there is a shampoo on the US
market which is violet and can be used to whiten the coat of originally
white horses who have been in the dirt for too long...
That`s the same thing I believe.

Many greetings,
Diana




--------------D4560DB26BAA51B17D1BBD4D
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<HTML>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>The things that make white appear very bright are OBAs(optical brightening
agents) they are a dye basically, you get all shades I used to colour match
them. They are certainly in many UK washing powders and on most whites and
yes glow under Ultra Violet light.</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
The brighteners are part of every modern detergent except for those intended
for couloured clothing.The use of&nbsp; blueing got abolished after the
invention of the brighteners because of the indigo`s disadvantage that
it could dye the clothing blue if not carefully handled.
<BR>I work in the detergent industry, that`s where my knowledge in this
field comes from ;-).
<BR>&nbsp;
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>>The reason old ladies have blue hair is that as they age, the color
receptors
in their brain see the blue hair as white, when in reality it's not. They
think they're dying their hair white.</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
I took this to be a joke ;-)...I know that there is a shampoo on the US
market which is violet and can be used to whiten the coat of originally
white horses who have been in the dirt for too long...
<BR>That`s the same thing I believe.

<P>Many greetings,
<BR>Diana
<BR>&nbsp;

<P>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------D4560DB26BAA51B17D1BBD4D--



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 13:25:56 1999
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Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 21:37:16 +0200
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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------1896BAC08DC3069E03CC90D2
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> Does anyone on the list know of other German works on the subject of
> renaissance costume?  Or medieval costume, for that matter?  I found a
> listing for the book "Kleidung und Waffen der Frueh und Hochgotik
> (1150-1320)" (Clothing and Weapons of the Early and Middle Gothic age) by
> Ulrich Lehnert, and was wondering if anyone had read it or knew how
> worthwhile a purchase it would be.
>
I can only recommend this book as I have done before on this list.There
are some beautiful color plates in it that show the cut of medieval
dress and the
patterns of the fabric used in detail.
So even if one doesn`t read German, the plates are nice to look at and
seem to be well researched like the whole book.

I`m also always here to help with translation of paragraphs of a German
text, not the whole book at once ;-), but if there is text written under
a picture or you are interested in the containt of a certain chapter,
feel free to ask.
I have the book by Lehnart myself and am German, so this should be no
problem for me ;-).

Many greetings,
Diana


--------------1896BAC08DC3069E03CC90D2
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>Does anyone on the list know of other German works on the subject of
renaissance costume?&nbsp; Or medieval costume, for that matter?&nbsp; I found a
listing for the book "Kleidung und Waffen der Frueh und Hochgotik
(1150-1320)" (Clothing and Weapons of the Early and Middle Gothic age) by
Ulrich Lehnert, and was wondering if anyone had read it or knew how
worthwhile a purchase it would be.</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
I can only recommend this book as I have done before on this list.There
are some beautiful color plates in it that show the cut of medieval dress
and the
<BR>patterns of the fabric used in detail.
<BR>So even if one doesn`t read German, the plates are nice to look at
and seem to be well researched like the whole book.

<P>I`m also always here to help with translation of paragraphs of a German
text, not the whole book at once ;-), but if there is text written under
a picture or you are interested in the containt of a certain chapter, feel
free to ask.
<BR>I have the book by Lehnart myself and am German, so this should be
no problem for me ;-).

<P>Many greetings,
<BR>Diana
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------1896BAC08DC3069E03CC90D2--



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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 13:40:45 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: Eureka!/Re: Questions?/Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>>
> Hullo Marc
> 
> I have two words. Thank you (repeated many, many times). You have a
> wonderful site. This is going to be a big help. :-)

You are entirely welcome.
 
>Also, you know Kass McGann. I read her article on the Shinrone gown in
>Tournaments Illuminated (SCA publication) and I have been trying to >find her ever since.

She's very nice and helpful.

>The historic clothing reconstruction that you, Ms. McGann, and other 
>folks on this list, are doing is something that I have wanted to do 
>since I was a kid.

It's a lot of fun, and easier than you might suspect.

>I was wondering what kind of a degree/education is needed to pursue a >career in this. I have an AA in cultural anthropology, an AS in library 
>and information sciences, a BA in cultural anthropology (both anthro 
>degrees have an emphasis in archaeology), and, after a twenty-year
>hiatus from school, one year's worth of study towards an MFA in 
>costume design. 

Don't ask me.  I'm what they call an "amateur", since with my Anthro
and History degrees, I'm a librarian.  How's the song go?

"I knew this cat named Darrell, he didn't have a dollar,
He was Harvard material, Ivy League scholar
Had a Ph.D., had an M.B.A.
But now he's waiting tables cause there's rent to pay..."
(Everlast - "The Ends")

I just do what I can, and keep making connections, and sharing what I
can.  For example, I'm scheduled to go to London in November to study
the shoes found in the Tudor dig this past spring (since my focus is
more on shoes than it is on clothes), but that's not making me any
money.

You might try looking at the major websites, such as
www.archaeology.org and www.britarch.ac.uk and seeing if there are any
links to universities doing textiles and conservation.

I'm afraid, though, that I'm not the best person that ask about a
succeessful career in the field :)

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 13:35:46 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: German costuming books
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 20:39:49 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi all,

Drea wrote: 
> Does anyone on the list know of other German works on the subject of
> renaissance costume?  Or medieval costume, for that matter?  I found a
> listing for the book "Kleidung und Waffen der Frueh und Hochgotik
> (1150-1320)" (Clothing and Weapons of the Early and Middle Gothic age) by
> Ulrich Lehnert, and was wondering if anyone had read it or knew how
> worthwhile a purchase it would be.

I have this one. It's pretty good and breaks a lot of new ground, but it's
mostly nobility, knights and fighting men again and only a very little bit
on the common people. There are some nice patterns, but there are also some
I disagree with. Lehnart uses illustrations by Viollet-le-Duc, which should
be handled with care, and some others (Chartres, Manesse, Hottenroth), to
my eye, are too much interpretations instead of trustable copies of the
originals.

I think I read somewhere that the publisher, Karfunkel, is planning other
periods too.

Henk



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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Bastard Sword [was Re: Men's Costuming]
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 20:23:14 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

> Chas wrote:
> > I don't know why they refered to the slightly shorter houppelande as a
> > "bastard" houppelande, but then again why was a sword that was slightly
> > shorter than a great sword called a "bastard" sword?  Im not up on
etymology
> > of the English language, but it would be fascinating to know why
"bastard"
> > was applied.
> 
Dietmar wrote:
> Normal short swords were used with one hand. 'Great swords' were larger
and
> heavier, and thus designed to be used with two hands (usually to break
the
> heads of of pikes and spears). A 'bastard' sword (often called a 'hand
and a
> half') was somewhere between the two; light enough to be swung with one
hand,
> but with a hilt long enough to accommodate two hands if needed.

I would like to add: during the middle ages there are short swords (like
the Roman gladius, but called the Basilard ca 60-70 cm, f.i.), there are
arming swords ca 70-80 cm (mostly worn together with the hand and a half
swords in the late 14th and 15th c), which are a bit longer than the
former, the common swords, ca 85-100 cm, hand and a half swords or bastard
swords ca, 110-130 cm, and the twohander, ca 140-160 cm. Great sword is not
a correct term for this type of weapon, as the words 'great sword' are more
used for swords of state, those with ceremonial or even mystic connections.
> 
> P.S.: Swords were not the heavy behemoths people envision and Hollywood
> perpetuates. On the average they weighed one lb./ft., so a short sword
would
> weigh about 3 lbs. They were light so that you could swing them without
> becoming tired. 

A normal sword is about 1-1,5 kg (ca 2,5-3 lbs) but perfectly balanced and
very easy to wield. Oh, a pet peeve of mine: they don't get pulled out of a
scabbard with the sound of steel on steel; the insides of scabbards are of
oiled leather, glued linen or oiled wood and don't emit any noise when a
sword is drawn. Watch for this 'clichee' in any Hollywood movie and you'll
not be disappointed. We always cry out: "zzzzing, another one..." and LOL.
Metal scabbards came into being during the 18th c for cavalry sabres, but I
guess they were lined with something or other (not my period!!!).

> People didn't duel on foot with great swords. Nor did they
> fence with them. 

They did. The art of fencing with two handed swords is very elaborate and
very risky. They acquire a special technique and some strenght as these
things can weigh up to 5 kg or 11 lbs, although most are about 2-3 kg. They
are also well balanced. Hans Talhoffer made a lavishly illustrated book on
finghting with all kinds of weapons, a.o. two handers, in 1469. But mostly
they were used in the armies of the early 16th c by the colourful
'landsknechten', who indeed used them to cut down pikes and men. Two
handers with blunted points were used by executioners and have been kept in
several European town museums.

> Stabbing was generally not effective with these slashing weapons.

Swords have always had points. Some types had even especially sharp points
and were used for stabbing as well as slashing. There are lots of
techniques in sword fighting where you use the point instead of the side of
the blade.

Henk
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: costume books
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<The Patterns of Fashion volume numbers left me a bit confused and led to me
getting the wrongs ones ; I wanted them all but was only  buying as I could
spend.>>

It's confusing, because she published the earliest period last.  The books
are as follows:

[Patterns of Fashion 1] (cut and construction of women's clothing,
1660-1860) --Wace 1964, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition 1977. (black
cover)

[Patterns of Fashion 2] (cut and construction of women's clothing,
1860-1940) --Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972. (sage green cover)

[Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women
1560-1620] -- Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986. (burgundy cover)

NB: in the latest reprinting of #3, someone at Macmillan decided for no
apparent reason to change the cover to black, just to further confuse
things. It annoyed Janet no end, since it was always easier to refer to
them by color.



Deborah


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Subject: Re: Eureka!/Re: Questions?/Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

.  How's the song go?
>
>"I knew this cat named Darrell, he didn't have a dollar,
>He was Harvard material, Ivy League scholar
>Had a Ph.D., had an M.B.A.
>But now he's waiting tables cause there's rent to pay..."
>(Everlast - "The Ends")
>

What do you call a woman with a master's in Theater Arts?

"Oh, Waitress!"


Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 13:49:32 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 21:38:10 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Speaking of Houpelandes....
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-Poster: Elizabeth Cummins <henninlady@juno.com>

> I've made a couple from the Past Patterns version, and I was wondering
if
> anybody has come up with a clever way of belting these so that you get
> those wonderful even folds that you see in all the art of the time???
> 
> Or do I just need to get my  handmaiden to arrange my gown for me ever
20
> minutes?

I bast the folds to twill tape on the inside. A couple of rows of twill
tape will hold the folds nicely. 

Elizabeth Cummins

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 13:52:06 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 12:15:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Bastard Sword [was Re: Men's Costuming]
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> very easy to wield. Oh, a pet peeve of mine: they
> don't get pulled out of a
> scabbard with the sound of steel on steel; the
> insides of scabbards are of
> oiled leather, glued linen or oiled wood and don't
> emit any noise when a
> sword is drawn. Watch for this 'clichee' in any
> Hollywood movie and you'll
> not be disappointed. We always cry out: "zzzzing,
> another one..." and LOL.

If you REALLY want to ruin your movie watching
experience, try to see a show put on by the "Crossed
Swords"... they are a husband and wife team that
travel the country coreographing (sp?) film and stage
fights and giving very funny lectures on what is wrong
with today's Hollywood fights... it is so funny, I was
rolling on the floor laughing... they usually can be
found at any gaming convention and at some ren faires.

Sarah

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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 12:24:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Eureka!/Re: Questions?/Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

When I was in school for English, I received no less
than 20 pins from my dear friends that said "I majored
in liberal arts... would you like fries with that?" 
Isn't it great that people love us? ;-)

Sarah


> What do you call a woman with a master's in Theater
> Arts?
> 
> "Oh, Waitress!"
> 
> 
> Margo
> 
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
 _________________________________________________________________
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: German costuming books
In-Reply-To: <37E53B6B.1777A750@ndh.net>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Andrea,

I read German, and am always on the lookout for obscure (or foreign)
costuming texts.  

I would be forever in your debt if you could give me a listing of the
medieval/renaissance German costuming books or articles you have,
particularly anything relating to the 1400s & 1500s. So far all I have is
a couple of articles from Waffen- und Kostumkunde, and Ein Buch von Alten
Farben by Ploss.

Thanks for the tip on Lehnert; I'll have to get that one.  (I fear I blew
my monthly book budget on Textiler Hausrat :) .

Yours,

Drea
 On Sun, 19 Sep 1999, Andrea Clef wrote:

> > Does anyone on the list know of other German works on the subject of
> > renaissance costume?  Or medieval costume, for that matter?  I found a
> > listing for the book "Kleidung und Waffen der Frueh und Hochgotik
> > (1150-1320)" (Clothing and Weapons of the Early and Middle Gothic age) by
> > Ulrich Lehnert, and was wondering if anyone had read it or knew how
> > worthwhile a purchase it would be.
> >
> I can only recommend this book as I have done before on this list.There
> are some beautiful color plates in it that show the cut of medieval
> dress and the
> patterns of the fabric used in detail.
> So even if one doesn`t read German, the plates are nice to look at and
> seem to be well researched like the whole book.
> 
> I`m also always here to help with translation of paragraphs of a German
> text, not the whole book at once ;-), but if there is text written under
> a picture or you are interested in the containt of a certain chapter,
> feel free to ask.
> I have the book by Lehnart myself and am German, so this should be no
> problem for me ;-).
> 
> Many greetings,
> Diana
> 
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 14:17:21 1999
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To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: OOPS! German costuming books
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Oops--that was meant to be a private post.  Sorry, list.

Drea
> 
> 
> Andrea,
> 
> I read German, and am always on the lookout for obscure (or foreign)
> costuming texts.  
> 
> I would be forever in your debt if you could give me a listing of the
> medieval/renaissance German costuming books or articles you have,
> particularly anything relating to the 1400s & 1500s. So far all I have is
> a couple of articles from Waffen- und Kostumkunde, and Ein Buch von Alten
> Farben by Ploss.
> 
> Thanks for the tip on Lehnert; I'll have to get that one.  (I fear I blew
> my monthly book budget on Textiler Hausrat :) .
> 
> Yours,
> 
> Drea
>  On Sun, 19 Sep 1999, Andrea Clef wrote:
> 
> > > Does anyone on the list know of other German works on the subject of
> > > renaissance costume?  Or medieval costume, for that matter?  I found a
> > > listing for the book "Kleidung und Waffen der Frueh und Hochgotik
> > > (1150-1320)" (Clothing and Weapons of the Early and Middle Gothic age) by
> > > Ulrich Lehnert, and was wondering if anyone had read it or knew how
> > > worthwhile a purchase it would be.
> > >
> > I can only recommend this book as I have done before on this list.There
> > are some beautiful color plates in it that show the cut of medieval
> > dress and the
> > patterns of the fabric used in detail.
> > So even if one doesn`t read German, the plates are nice to look at and
> > seem to be well researched like the whole book.
> > 
> > I`m also always here to help with translation of paragraphs of a German
> > text, not the whole book at once ;-), but if there is text written under
> > a picture or you are interested in the containt of a certain chapter,
> > feel free to ask.
> > I have the book by Lehnart myself and am German, so this should be no
> > problem for me ;-).
> > 
> > Many greetings,
> > Diana
> > 
> > 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 14:35:30 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 15:49:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Eureka!/Re: Questions?/Re: H-COST: Greenland gowns
In-Reply-To: <19990921192444.28929.rocketmail@web801.mail.yahoo.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

I had one when I was in college that said 'Future Bag Lady.'  (Double
majored in History and Religion -- graduated magna cum laude.  Am I doing
anything with either major?  Nothing that earns any money, of course!)

Cheers,
Mara


On Tue, 21 Sep 1999, Sarah Toney wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> 
> When I was in school for English, I received no less
> than 20 pins from my dear friends that said "I majored
> in liberal arts... would you like fries with that?" 
> Isn't it great that people love us? ;-)
> 
> Sarah
> 
> 
> > What do you call a woman with a master's in Theater
> > Arts?
> > 
> > "Oh, Waitress!"
> > 
> > 
> > Margo
> > 
> > "One Tough Costumer"
> > http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> > 
> > 
> >
> _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> > majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > 
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 14:39:23 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 14:56:36 -0500
From: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: rolled pleats?
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

I don't remember where, but I once saw a tool (modern-made) that is used for making pleats like this. It looked something like a large, three-pronged fork. You were supposed to use it by putting the two outside prongs on one side of the fabric and the center prong on the other side. Then you would just twist the fork a few times and voila--- pleats! Has anyone else seen a tool like this? It looked very useful. I wish I could remember where I saw it!

jb

<<<<<Rolled pleats (also called stacked pleats, I found out) are basically a
series of fabric rolls.  You pinch a piece of fabric up, roll it two or
three times, and flatten it down.>>>


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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 13:19:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: rolled pleats?
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Why not just go get a large serving fork?  That is
what this sounds like. ;-)

I think for me this would be more work than anything,
but if it works for some, more power to you... I tend
to cut a piece of cardboard the width of the pleat I
want and just wrapping the material around the
cardboard.  This ensures that they are relatively
even... I also often do them freehand, but I have had
a lot of practise, so it may be harder than I think...


sarah


> 
> I don't remember where, but I once saw a tool
> (modern-made) that is used for making pleats like
> this. It looked something like a large,
> three-pronged fork. You were supposed to use it by
> putting the two outside prongs on one side of the
> fabric and the center prong on the other side. Then
> you would just twist the fork a few times and
> voila--- pleats! Has anyone else seen a tool like
> this? It looked very useful. I wish I could remember
> where I saw it!
> 
> jb
> 
> <<<<<Rolled pleats (also called stacked pleats, I
> found out) are basically a
> series of fabric rolls.  You pinch a piece of fabric
> up, roll it two or
> three times, and flatten it down.>>>
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 15:45:33 1999
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From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: rolled pleats?
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

This is in Nancy's Notions catalog. She calls it a Fabric Tucker Set. It 
will do 1/4" or 1/2" tucks.

http://www.nancysnotions.com

Kim


At 02:56 PM 09/21/1999 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
>
>I don't remember where, but I once saw a tool (modern-made) that is used 
>for making pleats like this. It looked something like a large, 
>three-pronged fork.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 15:51:32 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: metallic thread
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<I remember reading somewhere that a pastime for ladies during the
Napoleonic Wars was using a special device for shredding old epaulettes
etc. from uniforms, in order to extract the gold for recycling. >>

It was called drizzling or parfilage, and began towards the end of the
18c, and consisted of unpicking and unravelling *any* metallic threads from
old clothing. Beads and gems were also unpicked to be reused again.

<<BTW, can I repeat the plea to those people who like to include the
sender's message in their reply, to edit it down to the essential bits?>>

I'll second that (again) -- the same posts are repeated again and again.


Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 16:21:13 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Thanks Deborah
Dont  think me finicky about picking on details,but as I am trying to
collect a copy of each reprint-I cant resist the oppurtunity of grilling you
further.
Which reprint is in black?
My 1995 Patterns of Fashion  (3)  is a very dark Burgundy compared to the
earlier ones;  and there is a definite lack of texture to the cover.
Is this correct or have I just got faded copies?
 Dave

 > NB: in the latest reprinting of #3, someone at Macmillan decided for no
> apparent reason to change the cover to black, just to further confuse
> things. It annoyed Janet no end, since it was always easier to refer to
> them by color.
 > Deborah


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Med Misc & other things
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I know the person who originally did the Medieval Miscellanea patterns. She's 
been an SCA member for more than 26 years and a Laurel (in costuming) for 
maybe 15. Her own costumes (and those that she did for her husband) were and 
still are very good. I think she drafted the patterns and some one else wrote 
the instructions. That being said, I do not like the MM patterns.

I never use MM patterns because I draft my own for the most part. I used one 
(the Tudor lady's gown) for a friend maybe 10 years ago and found it to be 
pretty useless. The sizing was ... interesting and the instructions were 
obscure. I could not understand them. At that time, I had been doing 
historical costuming for some 15 or more years and had a bunch of SCA awards 
(including a Laurel) for it. The clothing is reasonably well researched.

Keep in mind that the patterns were designed specifically for SCA use. That 
being the case, they are not particularly well designed, but are supposed to 
provide the proper "look" without being deadly authentic.

Hope this helps.
Kathleen Norvell
aka Alyson of Islay in the SCA
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 21 Sep 1999, aleed wrote:

> Does anyone on the list know of other German works on the subject of
> renaissance costume?  Or medieval costume, for that matter?  I found a
> listing for the book "Kleidung und Waffen der Frueh und Hochgotik
> (1150-1320)" (Clothing and Weapons of the Early and Middle Gothic age) by
> Ulrich Lehnert, and was wondering if anyone had read it or knew how
> worthwhile a purchase it would be.
> 
There is a series of books in the library here called 'Die Mode' I think. 
The first one is on the middle ages and then one for each century afterwards.
My German is pretty minimal so I don't read the text but they have lots of
pictures, mainly of course German ones, but a reasonable no. from elsewhere
which is what I look at it for.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 21 Sep 1999, R.L. Shep wrote:

> I can remember my mother going through the same thing and she would wear
> really BRIGHT clothing with lots of beads and jewelry and bright red nails
> and lipstick.  I don't remember her doing that when I was younger.
> Older women's attitude towards their hair is somewhat the same.  They do not
> see it as *blue* but as *bright*.
So what happens if you wear really bright red lipstick when you're younger?
*grin* 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 21 Sep 1999, aleed wrote:

> 
> Someone, on this list I believe, once mentioned coming across a tudor
> inventory which specified "stuffing for pleats" on a Tudor gown. I'd love
> to find them again and wangle out the details of this inventory.  :)
> Anyway, a fine layer of batting between the outer fabric and lining of a
> skirt would certainly bulk up the pleats quite nicely.
> 
I think that was me. The inventory in question is quoted in Cunnington's
"Handbook of 16th Century Costume" or whatever it's called.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress 
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 19:06:22 -0400
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From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Elysant de Holtham wrote:
>I have a princess line pattern, and if that would
>be more accurate, how would I adapt that to be as authentic
>as I could be for what I want?

The earliest documentable occurance of princess line cutting that I know 
of is from a painting of the Virgin and Child by Jean Fouquet from about 
1430-1450.
  http://cgfa.kelloggcreek.com/fouquet/p-fouquet3.htm
Without going out on too much of a limb, you could probably justify using 
a princess line cut for a dress as early as around 1420 or so.

For earlier gowns, while princess line cuts may have been used, there is 
no evidence.  General consensus seems to be that these dresses were 
usually cut along the lines of the Greenland gown.

However, I've recently heard a good argument for a 4-piece cut with inset 
gores for this style of gown.

If you do decide to go with the princess line version, there is probably 
very little that you will need to do to alter your pattern.  Just make 
sure the skirt is full and long, and that the neckline is rounded.  If 
you decide that you want decorative sleeves, then that could also require 
alterations, but you can use just plain long fitted sleeves.

>Is what we're aiming for a cotehardie?

That is the term usually used to refer to this style of tightly fitted 
gown.

>What is a greenland gown?

This term refers to any of a collection of garments found in a dig in 
Herjolfsnes, Greenland.  The one that most people use is also often 
referred to as the 10-gore dress.  It has a center front and center back 
pieces that cover most of the torso, gores inserted into the center of 
these to about waist height, and then 4 gores under each arm that are 
very narrow at the top and flare out towards the hem.  There has been a 
lot of discussion of it on the list lately.  Perhaps someone would be 
kind enough to post a web reference?

>What fabrics would I use?

In period, they would have used linen, wool, silk, or blends in solid 
colors or brocades.  Modernly, it is hard to find brocades (or even 
prints) that have the right look for this period, so solid colors are 
probably your best bet.  If you go for bold jewel toned colors you will 
get a nice dramatic effect.

>what would make a cheerleader dress so suitable?

That was a reference to the fact that some cheerleader dresses are nice 
simple princess line dresses, easy to alter into a later-period 
cotehardie pattern.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 18:09:28 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: German costuming books
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

>There is a series of books in the library here called 'Die Mode' I think.
>The first one is on the middle ages and then one for each century afterwards.
>My German is pretty minimal so I don't read the text but they have lots of
>pictures, mainly of course German ones, but a reasonable no. from elsewhere
>which is what I look at it for.

If these are the ones I am thinking of (sorry can't find the reference), I
have read a translation of one of them--be very suspicious of the text!  It
reads like the National Enquirer and seemed very suspect as a source for
history (good for centuries-old gossip, though!).

Melanie Schuessler


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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 16:23:45 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>



> The earliest documentable occurance of princess line cutting that I know
> of is from a painting of the Virgin and Child by Jean Fouquet from about
> 1430-1450.
>
> For earlier gowns, while princess line cuts may have been used, there is
> no evidence.  General consensus seems to be that these dresses were
> usually cut along the lines of the Greenland gown.
>
> However, I've recently heard a good argument for a 4-piece cut with inset
> gores for this style of gown.

I am in agreement with Irene here.  I, too, use the 4 piece cut with inset
gores.  I would love to hear your argument for this Irene!

> In period, they would have used linen, wool, silk, or blends in solid
> colors or brocades.  Modernly, it is hard to find brocades (or even
> prints) that have the right look for this period, so solid colors are
> probably your best bet.  If you go for bold jewel toned colors you will
> get a nice dramatic effect.

Velvets would work well too.  And mix colors like blue and red, or red and
green.  Stuff we wouldn't normally do.  Or different shades of the same
color.  Assuming you have a surcote as well as a cotehardie, and maybe even a
mantle.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 16:20:38 -0700
From: "The Adjutant's Office" <adjutant@asu.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Mid 19th Century Little Boy Clothes
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "The Adjutant's Office" <adjutant@asu.edu>

Can anyone recommend a pattern for a Civil War era-ish outfit for a
little boy? I realize that a three year old boy would probably be still
be in skirts, but I don't know that I'll be able to get him to put
another dress on, so I'm looking for something along the lines of a
sailor suit. My sewing ability is moderate and I can't draft my own
patterns, so I am hoping someone out there has done the work for me! 

Any suggestions, on-or-off list, will be very gratefully received!

Thanks so much!

Cynthia 
adjutant@asu.edu
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 18:33:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 16:47:22 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: How white was white
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
>Greetings,
>
>Charlene B. wrote:
>
>> Liquid bluing is still available (thing "blue-haired ladies" who use bluing
>> to take the dingy yellow cast out of white hair.
>
>Actually, bluing agents are most commonly found in dry laundry detergent. They
>are used to fake the eye into thinking that fabric is whiter than it really is
>(with the added benefit of making them florescent under black light).
>
>The reason old ladies have blue hair is that as they age, the color receptors
>in their brain see the blue hair as white, when in reality it's not. They
>think they're dying their hair white.
>
>Dietmar
>
I'm not sure where the info about color receptors came from, and I'm not
argueing it.  However, I remember that my grandmother used to use a bluing
on her hair.  She had been on heart medication from her mid-twenties and
her hair had a nasty yellow to it.  She hated it because it screamed to her
'medication!'  So she used a bluish rinse on it and made it the MOST
beautiful white - no blue in it at all, just Santa Claus white hair.

LynnD
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Lurker's query reference slipper lamps
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 17:09:32 -0700
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>


You might try this URL: http://home.inreach.com/ivanyc/index.html

Ivan makes several types of ancient lamps, one of which is probably what you
are looking for. They run $15.00 plus $3.00 for shipping.

 Alternatively you might try the Sadigh Gallery, 303 Fifth Avenue, Suite
1603, NY, NY  10016.  URL:  http://www.ipgroup.com/sadigh/artifact.htm.
They sell the real thing along with a certificate of authenticity FOR $39 to
$49.  These little lamps turn up in the hundreds of thousands in the Near
East, and no museum really needs another, but they do need the money they
can bring so they can go on with more important conservation or digs.


Regina Romsey


Question 2: Where might one find a modern reproduction of an ancient clay
oil lamp? I've seen pictures, but do not have a clue who made them. They
look a little like what one might expect Aladdin's lamp to look like, they
use oil or fat for fuel, and have a wick. I think they were made in Greece,
originally.

And no, I'm not explaining what I need these for yet. Let me find out if the
idea works, first! ;)

Kate

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 21:12:26
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From: Kristin Page <kdp@tiac.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: flying shuttle
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-Poster: Kristin Page <kdp@tiac.net>

>what happened in between the Bronze Age and 1733.
>

Lots.  Looms went from being upright like warp-weighted loom and some
circular looms -- some of those warps were apparently woven by several
people at the same time (evidence of shedding errors -- to horizontal. On a
horizontal loom, maximum fabric width width was limited by distance a
weaver could throw the shuttle (broadcloth seems to have been made by a
three man team, one to throw the shuttle, one to catch it, and the third to
change the shed and beat the fabric). From the 11th century until the
invention of the fly shuttle and jaquard looms there were no major changes
in weaving technology.

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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 18:46:56 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

R.L. Shep wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
> 
> When I worked for Max Factor in their Foreign Dept - one of my many past
> lives - we used to get lectures by the make-up artists and they claimed that
> the reason why Older women often wear so much gaudy make-up is that they get
> tired of seeing their face in the mirror - day after day, year after year -
> and the feel they want a *lift* so they put on redder lipstick or blacker
> liner or lots of rouge.

Maybe it's 'cause they can't really *see* their faces anymore!
I don't wear as much make-up as I used to, because without
my glasses, I think I look just fine! :->
  Like theatrical makeup which has to be very exaggerated to 
be visisble at distance, maybe if you can't see your face
very clearly, you add more "emphasis"??
  I can't figure out how to put on eye make-up anymore.
Obviously I can't wear glasses, but if I don't I can't really
see what I'm doing. And it's going to be downhill from here!

with tongue in cheek,

Susan F.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 21:16:51 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 21:12:45 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I know that I was told at one point by Mistress Nerak that the seam on
the princess line go into the armhole to turn a princess line into a
period cotehardie.  If you can find a princess line pattern that has the
seam over the bust going into the armhole then you can use it as is.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 21:20:53 1999
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References: <199909201649.KAA13177@net.indra.com> <37E790CE.DAE77AA3@execpc.com> <001d01bf0459$0fbb5940$eb973018@pbc.adelphia.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

You know guys, the Chinese and Jewish calendars have
managed to make it thru' several millennia without
mishap. Maybe we could drop it now.

Susan F.

-- 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 21:21:31 1999
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Textiler Hausrat questions
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>Julie and Melanie and anyone else who has seen the book  "Textiler
>Hausrat": How good is it? I can muddle my way through some German, but
>not enough to read too much. Therefore, I would be buying it for the
>pictures only.

I would say there are better pictures in some art books, but not so many
showing the clear evolution of German fashions of that time. I struggle
through the text for the most part because like in Elizabeth's Wardrobe
Unlock'd, it has inventories and order sheets for tailors and such. It has
a really good section on house textiles and one can see the very different
weaves of cloth used for various house textiles, such as pillow cases and
table cloths.  I think that there are some really good costume pictures in
that section too, though I have most of them from other books, scattered
through cookbooks, art books and costuming books, but its nice to have them
in one place. Its also nice to have the German names for particular
garments and accessories.

Julie Adams


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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 17:37:06 -0800
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>
>OK, I'm showing my ignorance here--what, exactly, are organ pipe pleats?
>I've been told they were pleats formed by circular gores that were
>ungathered at the waist edge and kept uniform at the bottom with stay
>tapes.  I've heard that they are rolled pleats, and someone else has
>likened them to the pleats that Margo referred to in her recent post, that
>she was using on her Flemish gown.  I've also heard that they didn't
>really exist, and were a modern interpretation of other kinds of pleating.
>Juliana just referred you yet another kind of pleat in German paintings,
>which I don't quite get.
>
>Explanations, anyone?

Rolled or stacked pleats are what you showed in your diagram. I've seen
these in German outfits, particularly in some cloak collars in Lucas
Cranach paintings, where the curl of the pleat actually stays out to the
edge of about an 8" collar.

Organ pipe pleats are done on a garment cut as gores or in the round. Each
pleat is pinched and sewn on the inside vertically from waist to hem in the
most precise garments and at least 6-8" from the waist in the women's
gowns. Each pleat is held in place by stay tapes tacked to the inside of
the garment.  Each organ pipe pleat is a set size. The skirt is sewn to the
ribbon or band in similar to cartridge pleating, but each pleat is wider
and has a slight curve and there is no depth to it. The skirt is almost
flat when attached to the band, except for each pinch between pleats, so it
falls without a ledge to the top of the skirt into a more conical form.

Cartridge pleats are gathered with one or more threads usually about 3/4"
more or less in stitches into a fairly thick edge (depending on the depth
of the pleat), and usually the top edge is sewn to the band or ribbon (but
the bottom edge can be as well). Usually this creates a shelf coming out
from the waist as the skirt edge is perpendicular to the bodice and it is
thick. It  creates more of a wide topped "bell" sillouette.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 21:39:37 1999
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

I looked up the tucker gadget. It is something like what I saw (I think,
it's hard to see much in their picture), but the tucker I saw seemed capable of
making bigger pleats than 1/4 and 1/2 inch.

<<<This is in Nancy's Notions catalog. She calls it a Fabric Tucker Set. It
will do 1/4" or 1/2" tucks.

http://www.nancysnotions.com >>>

<<<Why not just go get a large serving fork?  That is
what this sounds like. ;-)>>>

Yes! That was rather what it looked like, but it had straight edges, rather than
slightly curved ones, and it wasn't sharp. It also seemed to be more flexible. I'll
bet I could make something like it if I found the right materials. It was pretty simple.

jb

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 21:46:51 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 23:00:57 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Kat wrote:
>I know that I was told at one point by Mistress Nerak that the seam on
>the princess line go into the armhole to turn a princess line into a
>period cotehardie.  If you can find a princess line pattern that has the
>seam over the bust going into the armhole then you can use it as is.

That depends on what you mean by "into the armhole".  The seamline in the 
portrait by Fouquet appears to go into the armhole, but up high, near the 
shoulder.  Most commercial patterns with an into-the-armhole line go into 
the armpit.  Personally, I use an over-the-shoulder cut, because it uses 
less fabric and I find it more flattering.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 22:17:53 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 22:31:05 -0500
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Irene leNoir wrote:
> 
> That depends on what you mean by "into the armhole".  The seamline in
> the portrait by Fouquet appears to go into the armhole, but up high,
> near the shoulder.  Most commercial patterns with an into-the-armhole
> line go into the armpit.  Personally, I use an over-the-shoulder cut,
> because it uses less fabric and I find it more flattering.

Looking at one of my cotehardies made with the pattern that Nerak gave
me, the seam goes in about 7" below the shoulder seam, putting it (on
me) slightly higher than half-way between the lowest point of the
armhole and the shoulder seam.  BTW the picture in the URL is one that I
saved at one point to put on a nursing t-shirt (with the caption "Jesus
was a breast-fed baby" <grin>).

Kat
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 22:37:16 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Mid 19th Century Little Boy Clothes
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

The Adjutant's Office wrote:
> 
> Can anyone recommend a pattern for a Civil War era-ish outfit for a
> little boy? I realize that a three year old boy would probably be
> still be in skirts, but I don't know that I'll be able to get him to
> put another dress on, so I'm looking for something along the lines of
> a sailor suit. My sewing ability is moderate and I can't draft my own
> patterns, so I am hoping someone out there has done the work for me!
> 
> Any suggestions, on-or-off list, will be very gratefully received!

I don't recall seeing any for boys in the 'big 3' but I seem to remember
seeing one in the Alter Years catalog... unfortunately my dad has my
copy so I can't confirm.

Kat
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Appin1@aol.com wrote:
> 
<snip>
> I never use MM patterns because I draft my own for the most part. I
> used one (the Tudor lady's gown) for a friend maybe 10 years ago and
> found it to be pretty useless. The sizing was ... interesting and the
> instructions were obscure. I could not understand them. At that time,
> I had been doing historical costuming for some 15 or more years and
> had a bunch of SCA awards (including a Laurel) for it. The clothing is
> reasonably well researched.
<snip>

Mistress Nerak told me the first time I saw one of these that a) never,
ever, ever try to read the instructions... just look at the pictures and
b) never, ever, ever cut them... make copies of your pattern pieces on
butcher paper... otoh I've heard that some of the patterns have been
changed so that you don't have pieces a, b, c & d all occupying one
space on the pattern.

Kat
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

LDMundy wrote:
> 
> Amongst many , there is one book that I find very useful for hasty
> reference; with such a bad memeory its important to me.
> John Peacocks -Costume 1066-1990; It's just pictures with overwritten
> short notes ( but it is only UK in most parts) 130?pages at 8
> illustrations per page, broken down into the relevant periods It's
> simplistic but quick.

I have this one... I use it to give me design ideas for variations
(particularly when I'm costuming a play) or for folx to look at when
they're unsure what 'period' they are interested in for a costume.

Kat
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: rolled pleats?
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 21:13:52 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Sounds like something Clotilde would carry.  They carry a lot of odd little
gadgets and I remember seeing several pleat makers a little different than
what you are describing.
Michelle
-----Original Message-----
From: schuck@vci.net <schuck@vci.net>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 21, 1999 12:55 PM
Subject: H-COST: Re: rolled pleats?


>
>-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
>
>I don't remember where, but I once saw a tool (modern-made) that is used
for making pleats like this. It looked something like a large, three-pronged
fork. You were supposed to use it by putting the two outside prongs on one
side of the fabric and the center prong on the other side. Then you would
just twist the fork a few times and voila--- pleats! Has anyone else seen a
tool like this? It looked very useful. I wish I could remember where I saw
it!
>
>jb
>
><<<<<Rolled pleats (also called stacked pleats, I found out) are basically
a
>series of fabric rolls.  You pinch a piece of fabric up, roll it two or
>three times, and flatten it down.>>>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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Message-ID: <6c7587bb.2519b0d4@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 00:11:00 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: Elysant@aol.com

-Poster: <Elysant@aol.com> 

I thank you M'Ladies Irene and Marouda, as well as the other gentles who have 
provided me with information on the 14th century Dress I am to make. 

I have a few additional questions if I may. 

Firstly, how and where is the dress fastened?   

Secondly, what kind of headgear would be worn with the gown if one is 
attempting to depict a 14th century French Lady? 

And lastly, I am assuming that a loose sleeveless surcote of a more ornate or 
heavier but complimentary fabric, perhaps trimmed with fur or trim would be 
worn over the dress (below knee length and bell shaped).  Am I correct? 

Thank you again for all your help.

Elysant 
 
 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 22:57:27 1999
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-Poster: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>

> The things that make white appear very bright are OBAs(optical brightening
>agents) they are a dye basically, you get all shades I used to colour match
>them. They are certainly in many UK washing powders and on most whites and
>yes glow under Ultra Violet light.
>
> The brighteners are part of every modern detergent except for those
>intended for couloured clothing.The use of  blueing got abolished after
>the invention of the brighteners because of the indigo`s disadvantage that
>it could dye the clothing blue if not carefully handled.
>I work in the detergent industry, that`s where my knowledge in this field
>comes from ;-).


I've read that parts of (modern) Europe have different tastes
in "white" than the USA has --- and that a mild pink tone is
desired (and therefore manufactured)  in their "whites".
    So white isn't always white ....

Deb Baddorf


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 23:05:33 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Danielle's (not mine) underthings: Ever After
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 22:26:47 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Wow, a name!  Farsinetto!  Picture me dancing around the room!  Well, OK,
never mind picturing me dancing, it's not a pretty sight.

Anyway, thanks Drea.

A couple of posts back I mentioned that it would be cool if we (the list)
could talk to costume designers and pick their brains.  On another list I
belong to, they have guest speakers once a month.  Everyone meets in a chat
room to hear/read the person speak on a subject, then there is a question
and answer period.  Now, I haven't actually participated in one of these
yet, so I am not entirely sure of the particulars, but wouldn't that be
neat?

Kathlene

----------
> From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Danielle's (not mine) underthings: Ever After
> Date: Tuesday, September 21, 1999 7:32 AM
> 
> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> 
> I think the close-fitting supportive undergarment which Danielle is seen
> wearing would be closest to a "farsinetto", which is basically a
> supportive, sleeveless undergarment worn under gowns in 15th century
> Italy.  That's about all I know about it. An expert on the subject
> mentioned it on this list some time ago...Carole Frick?  I think it was
> she.
> 
> Drea
> 

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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 22:35:13 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Drea,

OK, so you have this fabric rolled up.  Now what?  Do you sew it down to
the fabric or sew it to the next pleat?  Would you roll the next pleat in
the opposite direction or in the same direction?  Would you roll in the
same direction around the whole skirt or at some point, lets say center
back, would you change direction?

Kathlene

----------
> From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
> Date: Tuesday, September 21, 1999 9:37 AM
> 
> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> 
> Rolled pleats (also called stacked pleats, I found out) are basically a
> series of fabric rolls.  You pinch a piece of fabric up, roll it two or
> three times, and flatten it down.  Here's a diagram:
> 
> 
>      ______________
>      | __________  |
>      | |_______  | |
>      |_________| | |
> _________________| |___________
> 
> Drea
> 
> On Mon, 20 Sep 1999, Dean Quackenbush wrote:
> 
> > 
> > -Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
> > 
> > > Drea, what are rolled pleats?
> > 
> > Organ-pipe pleats are another name for what I believe she is referring
to.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
> > To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
> > Sent: Monday, September 20, 1999 4:53 PM
> > Subject: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
> > 
> > 
> > >
> > > -Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
> > >
> > >
> > > Drea Leed posted:
> > >
> > > >I haven't seen anything regarding bumrolls, either...but I've found
that
> > > >when I use a small & loosely stuffed one under a skirt pleated with
> > rolled
> > > >pleats, it looks smack out of a Cranach painting.
> > >
> > > Drea, what are rolled pleats?
> > >
> > > thanks
> > >
> > > Gail DeCamp
> > >
> > >
> > > Dogs come when you call them. Cats have answering machines.
> > >
> > >  _________________________________________________________________
> > >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > >
> > 
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > 
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 21 23:22:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 21:33:08 -0700
From: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
Organization: Well, I wouldn't call it organized......
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-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>

Andrea Gideon wrote:

> -Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
>
> > I know that people use corsets for this style but the correct
> silhouette
> > can be achieved by other methods.  The corsets of other countries
> during
> > the same time period won't give the right look.
>
> Actually an Italian Ren corset does give the right look.  The desired
> effect
> is the same, slightly flattened and stuffed uni-boob.
> Andrea

Andrea,

The style of Italian Renn you are referring to is about 30-50 years
earlier than the German style we are discussing.  If you don't mind
backtracking a little then yes, that style of corset would work pretty
much.

Diana

--

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
"There are too many mediocre things in life to deal with.....Love
shouldn't be one
 of them."
--Ione Skye in "Dream for an Insomniac"


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 10:33:36 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress - "princess" seams
In-reply-to: <199909220220.UAA14520@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


OK, Now I'm confused.... Possibly I'm thinking of "princess" 
seaming as being something different from what is referred to in 
these two posts...?

> From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
> - -Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
> 
> Elysant de Holtham wrote:
> >I have a princess line pattern, and if that would
> >be more accurate, how would I adapt that to be as authentic
> >as I could be for what I want?
> 
> The earliest documentable occurance of princess line cutting that I know
> of is from a painting of the Virgin and Child by Jean Fouquet from about
> 1430-1450.
>   http://cgfa.kelloggcreek.com/fouquet/p-fouquet3.htm
> Without going out on too much of a limb, you could probably justify using
> a princess line cut for a dress as early as around 1420 or so.
<SNIP>
> If you do decide to go with the princess line version, there is probably
> very little that you will need to do to alter your pattern.  Just make
> sure the skirt is full and long, and that the neckline is rounded.  If you
> decide that you want decorative sleeves, then that could also require
> alterations, but you can use just plain long fitted sleeves.

> From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

> I know that I was told at one point by Mistress Nerak that the seam on the
> princess line go into the armhole to turn a princess line into a period
> cotehardie.  If you can find a princess line pattern that has the seam
> over the bust going into the armhole then you can use it as is.
> 
> Kat

I was under the impression that "princess" seaming involved seams 
that curve out from the armhole, across the bust, down to the waist 
and then flare out into the skirts.

Have I got this wrong?

A variation on this (that I have seen in some 15th century paintings 
and *thought* was  more period than the seam-into-armhole 
version) has the seam coming down from the shoulder (sometimes 
the neckline if it's a very wide neckline) rather than from the 
armhole.

The painting of Virgin and Child  has the top end of the seam 
obscured by the cloak so it could go to either but looks (to me) as 
if it is headed up to the shoulder (possibly very close to the 
armhole seam or intersecting with it up near the shoulder).  But 
that is conjecture as it can't actually be seen.

Anyone else got any thoughts on this?

Teddy
(in the middle of making a rusty-orange velvet "cotehardie" using 
the seam-to-the-shoulder variation for a friend)




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 06:55:12 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress - "princess" seams
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 08:08:33 -0400
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From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Teddy wrote:
>OK, Now I'm confused.... Possibly I'm thinking of "princess" 
>seaming as being something different from what is referred to in 
>these two posts...?
<snip>
>I was under the impression that "princess" seaming involved seams 
>that curve out from the armhole, across the bust, down to the waist 
>and then flare out into the skirts.

Close.  Princess seaming is any seam arrangement that uses vertical 
seamlines to achieve a fit over the bust and shoulders and through the 
body, without any darts or horizontal seams.  Most modern patterns that 
are princess seamed have the main shaping seam travel into (or out from, 
depending on your point of view) the armhole, usually somewhere near the 
armpit.  But some variations have the seam enter the armhole higher up, 
towards the shoulder.  Even others don't enter the armhole, but go over 
the shoulder, or even into a wide neckline.

So, all the variations you descrived fall into the category of princess 
seaming.

Note also that although rare, you can sometimes find mens garments that 
use princess seaming.

>The painting of Virgin and Child  has the top end of the seam 
>obscured by the cloak so it could go to either but looks (to me) as 
>if it is headed up to the shoulder (possibly very close to the 
>armhole seam or intersecting with it up near the shoulder).  But 
>that is conjecture as it can't actually be seen.

You are correct.  I've known different people to interpret this seam 
different ways, probably based on which way they want it to be.  After 
much work at attempting to be objective, I've admitted to myself that I 
think it looks like it does actually intersect the armhole seam, but 
definitely very close to the shoulder.  It definitely does not go aywhere 
close to the armpit.

Hope this helps.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 07:40:25 1999
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Fasteners
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 08:53:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>

Hi, I realize this is a little belated, but here goes.
I usually use an ice pick to work holes for grommets in. What also works is
some sort of sharpened smooth stick, like a chopstick or a dowel. I just put
them in the pencil sharpener and it makes a nice smooth poking stick. This
can be done to a lot of fabrics, just making sure that the fibers don't
break. I don't know if this would be easier or harder than punching.

Kristen
---------------------------------------------

-Poster: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>

A little late for delurking day, but here goes. We used to have an
eyeleting machine and I'm looking for a replacement. It looked like an
over-grown office stapler. It operated by placing the item to be
eyeleted on the base and pulling down the lever. The little eyelet
holder would then rotate and another eyelet would drop down into the
track waiting for it's turn.
I've been doing an increasing amount of grommeting but punching the
holes  with our rotery hole punch is too hard on my hands. Does anyone
have a solution for either the hole punching or a source for an
affordable eyeleting/grommeting machine. I hope that made sense.


--
Freya

Abair ach beag, is abair gu math e.
Say but little, and say it well.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 08:21:15 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9909201556160.18245-100000@kirk.dnaco.net> <37E6E37A.EC875C5A@inreach.com> <000d01bf0435$a9f13bc0$5bc47ad1@pavilion> <37E85C04.DF12795B@inreach.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Early 16th cent German Corsetry-
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 09:43:31 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>


> Andrea,
>
> The style of Italian Renn you are referring to is about 30-50 years
> earlier than the German style we are discussing.  If you don't mind
> backtracking a little then yes, that style of corset would work pretty
> much.
>
> Diana
>

What do you mean by backtracking?  If it gives the proper look, what does it
matter when or where it came from?  If it gives the proper look, couldn't it
be possible that it is similar to what was used?
Andrea

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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
In-Reply-To: <199909220428.WAA03278@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


You flatten it and sew it down to the fabric. you roll the next pleat in
the same direction. Start at the center front with the pleats facing
towards the back, and have the pleats meet at the back.

Drea

On Tue, 21 Sep 1999, K & J Hopkins wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> 
> Drea,
> 
> OK, so you have this fabric rolled up.  Now what?  Do you sew it down to
> the fabric or sew it to the next pleat?  Would you roll the next pleat in
> the opposite direction or in the same direction?  Would you roll in the
> same direction around the whole skirt or at some point, lets say center
> back, would you change direction?
> 
> Kathlene
> 
> ----------
> > From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
> > Date: Tuesday, September 21, 1999 9:37 AM
> > 
> > 
> > -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> > 
> > 
> > Rolled pleats (also called stacked pleats, I found out) are basically a
> > series of fabric rolls.  You pinch a piece of fabric up, roll it two or
> > three times, and flatten it down.  Here's a diagram:
> > 
> > 
> >      ______________
> >      | __________  |
> >      | |_______  | |
> >      |_________| | |
> > _________________| |___________
> > 
> > Drea
> > 
> > On Mon, 20 Sep 1999, Dean Quackenbush wrote:
> > 
> > > 
> > > -Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
> > > 
> > > > Drea, what are rolled pleats?
> > > 
> > > Organ-pipe pleats are another name for what I believe she is referring
> to.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
> > > To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
> > > Sent: Monday, September 20, 1999 4:53 PM
> > > Subject: H-COST: Rolled pleats?
> > > 
> > > 
> > > >
> > > > -Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Drea Leed posted:
> > > >
> > > > >I haven't seen anything regarding bumrolls, either...but I've found
> that
> > > > >when I use a small & loosely stuffed one under a skirt pleated with
> > > rolled
> > > > >pleats, it looks smack out of a Cranach painting.
> > > >
> > > > Drea, what are rolled pleats?
> > > >
> > > > thanks
> > > >
> > > > Gail DeCamp
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Dogs come when you call them. Cats have answering machines.
> > > >
> > > >  _________________________________________________________________
> > > >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > > >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > > >
> > > 
> > >  _________________________________________________________________
> > >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 08:24:20 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 06:35:27 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: ATTN: Julie Adams/Other Party with Recommendations
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

   I think I'm finally getting the right mental image, but to be
sure--could you please
give me a few references to pictures that include a gown with organ
pleating, book/url, whatever...except for rare/expensive... :-)  Thank you
very much, in advance!  Carol
 
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re. Metallic thread
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:27:11 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Kate wrote:
> I remember reading somewhere that a pastime for ladies during the
Napoleonic Wars was using a special device for shredding old epaulettes
etc. from uniforms, in order to extract the gold for recycling. And we
think recycling is a new idea!

Recycling is as old as the world. It's only been during the last 25-30
years that our consumersociety has become so bloated that recycling is no
longer fashionable (except for a certain kind of more aware persons!).

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:40:30 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Dave wrote:
> Amongst many , there is one book that I find very useful for hasty
> reference; with such a bad memeory its important to me.
> John Peacocks -Costume 1066-1990; It's just pictures with overwritten
short
> notes ( but it is only UK in most parts) 130?pages at 8 illustrations per
> page, broken down into the relevant periods It's simplistic but quick.

I'm afraid I must disagree here. I find John Peacock a very poor artist who
pictured the costumes in a very unclear and rather clumsy way. You can see
this for yourself if you compare his pictures with his models. He mixes
periods (especially in the middle ages) and draws several anachronisms. His
comments are not very good either. Personally I hate the heavy men's legs
he draws.

> the foreword contains my most favourite of
> quotes:_---
> "Costume is not a triviality; it is the visible raiment of the soul"

I'm sorry, but I find this a bit over the top... No offence; it's Lavers
quote anyway. It reminds me of a certain kind of bogus art-hysterians
(note: I wrote 'bogus', I don't include the real ones!), who don't leave a
stone unturned to promote and mysticise their (in my view; boy, will I get
flamed over this) rather useless occupation....

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 10:25:33 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

The other Kat wrote: 
> I know that I was told at one point by Mistress Nerak that the seam on
> the princess line go into the armhole to turn a princess line into a
> period cotehardie.  If you can find a princess line pattern that has the
> seam over the bust going into the armhole then you can use it as is.

The princess line can either go into the armhole or up to the 
shoulder. What you don't want it to do is take turns (even rounded 
ones) such as those in the "military cut". The line should be 
relatively straight. If it has a "military cut" (which is a major 
curve at the bust which takes the curve into the armhole), straighten 
it out by flat pattern method so that it goes to the shoulder or 
upper armhole.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 10:29:47 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 08:44:59 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

The first problem is that none of you are talking about a cotehardie.  The
'kirtles' you are referring to came along 40-50 years later.  Minimum.  Just
to clarify that.  As far as I can tell cotehardies were a four panel dress,
no princess seams what so ever.
Just my $.02,
Cynthia


> > That depends on what you mean by "into the armhole".  The seamline in
> > the portrait by Fouquet appears to go into the armhole, but up high,
> > near the shoulder.  Most commercial patterns with an into-the-armhole
> > line go into the armpit.  Personally, I use an over-the-shoulder cut,
> > because it uses less fabric and I find it more flattering.
>
> Looking at one of my cotehardies made with the pattern that Nerak gave
> me, the seam goes in about 7" below the shoulder seam, putting it (on
> me) slightly higher than half-way between the lowest point of the
> armhole and the shoulder seam.  BTW the picture in the URL is one that I
> saved at one point to put on a nursing t-shirt (with the caption "Jesus
> was a breast-fed baby" <grin>).
>
> Kat
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 11:00:47 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 09:02:38 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Peacock's books are just great for a very very overall view of anything.  It
is a good way to find out what you want to look for and then use some more
in depth references for any particular era to really see what those costume
elements are.
He is writing for Fashion Designers and for them and an overall view of
things they work... but not for serious costume study.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
>Date: Wed, Sep 22, 1999, 8:40 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
>Henk & Pauline 't Jong
>tScapreel
>Medieval Advisors
>Dordrecht, Netherlands
>
>Hi,
>
>Dave wrote:
>> Amongst many , there is one book that I find very useful for hasty
>> reference; with such a bad memeory its important to me.
>> John Peacocks -Costume 1066-1990; It's just pictures with overwritten
>short
>> notes ( but it is only UK in most parts) 130?pages at 8 illustrations per
>> page, broken down into the relevant periods It's simplistic but quick.
>
>I'm afraid I must disagree here. I find John Peacock a very poor artist who
>pictured the costumes in a very unclear and rather clumsy way. You can see
>this for yourself if you compare his pictures with his models. He mixes
>periods (especially in the middle ages) and draws several anachronisms. His
>comments are not very good either. Personally I hate the heavy men's legs
>he draws.
>
>> the foreword contains my most favourite of
>> quotes:_---
>> "Costume is not a triviality; it is the visible raiment of the soul"
>
>I'm sorry, but I find this a bit over the top... No offence; it's Lavers
>quote anyway. It reminds me of a certain kind of bogus art-hysterians
>(note: I wrote 'bogus', I don't include the real ones!), who don't leave a
>stone unturned to promote and mysticise their (in my view; boy, will I get
>flamed over this) rather useless occupation....
>
>Henk
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Houppelande
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 18:04:49 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Chas wrote:
> A Bastard houppelande is one that is or about ankle length, or so I have
been 
> taught and have read.  The great houppelandes were ones that not only
drug 
> the ground, but actually made a respectable puddle of fabric at the feet.
 
> You can witness these in many Italian portraits.  Riding houppelandes had
to 
> be shorter than even a bastard houppelande, and therefor were cut at the 
> knees or perhaps a tad higher.  If you study portaits from the 12th-15th 
> centuries you can see the evolution of this garment. 

IMO houppelandes came into being in the second half of the 14th c. I
suppose they are a follow-up of the gardecorps/supertotus type of overcoat,
which can be traced to ca 1250 or a bit earlier. But 12th c; I don't think
so.

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: 14th century Dress
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 18:24:01 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Elysant wrote:
> Firstly, how and where is the dress fastened?   
> 
> Secondly, what kind of headgear would be worn with the gown if one is 
> attempting to depict a 14th century French Lady? 
> 
These all depend on the exact period, place and class. 

> And lastly, I am assuming that a loose sleeveless surcote of a more
ornate or 
> heavier but complimentary fabric, perhaps trimmed with fur or trim would
be 
> worn over the dress (below knee length and bell shaped).  Am I correct? 
> 
Not entirely. A sleeveless surcotte makes in pre 1350 for fashionable
France, these were foot lenght or longer for young nobility, and for winter
were lined with furs, not only trimmed, although fur was visible at neck
and armopenings. For summer they were lined with silk or linen.

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: German costuming books
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 18:18:49 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Clair wrote:
> There is a series of books in the library here called 'Die Mode' I think.

> The first one is on the middle ages and then one for each century
afterwards.
> My German is pretty minimal so I don't read the text but they have lots
of
> pictures, mainly of course German ones, but a reasonable no. from
elsewhere
> which is what I look at it for.

This is a series of books by Max von Boehm, which he wrote during the first
World War and later and which started appearing soon after 1918. My
'Mittelalter' copy dates back to 1963 (6th impression). It's useless as a
costume history; it's more a cultural and art history (and some of you know
I can't stand these), but it has some very rare pictures. My favourite
periode (1250-1350) is hardly mentioned, except for the Manesse MS (as
usual).

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Bastard Sword [was Re: Men's Costuming]
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 18:08:05 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Sarah wrote:
> If you REALLY want to ruin your movie watching
> experience, try to see a show put on by the "Crossed
> Swords"... they are a husband and wife team that
> travel the country coreographing (sp?) film and stage
> fights and giving very funny lectures on what is wrong
> with today's Hollywood fights... it is so funny, I was
> rolling on the floor laughing... they usually can be
> found at any gaming convention and at some ren faires.

Please, tell me more about these people, if necessary by private mail.
Thank you,

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 11:26:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 09:41:07 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> I thank you M'Ladies Irene and Marouda, as well as the other gentles who have
> provided me with information on the 14th century Dress I am to make.

You are most welcome.  :)

> Firstly, how and where is the dress fastened?

Well that would depend on the dress.  In the 14th century fashions changed *VERY*
rapidly.  Each decade has a different set of details that set it aside from the
others.  Sometimes front lacing or front buttons were used.  Sometimes you can't
tell.  I personally use front lacing because there is such wonderful
docuementation for it.  Also, because I have no hand maiden and must dress myself
it keeps me from lying on my back in the middle of the night in tears like a
turtle that can't turn over.  *GGG*  But buttons would work too.

> Secondly, what kind of headgear would be worn with the gown if one is
> attempting to depict a 14th century French Lady?

Again, this would depend on the decade as the head gear changed more than
anything else in the 14th century.

I recommend you get the book from the library _A Visual History of the 14th and
15th Centuries_ by Margaret Scott.  Lots and lots of good pictures to help you
with ideas.

> And lastly, I am assuming that a loose sleeveless surcote of a more ornate or
> heavier but complimentary fabric, perhaps trimmed with fur or trim would be
> worn over the dress (below knee length and bell shaped).  Am I correct?

Sleeveless or sideless.  That later in the century the more sideless it became.
And in many many cases no surcote is worn at all, especially mid to late
century.  You're close but look at as many pictures as you can.  And Don't use
the McCall's Medieval surcote pattern.  BLEAH!  If you have to use one, the new
Simplicity pattern is much closer.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 12:46:11 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>Recycling is as old as the world. It's only been during the last 25-30
>years that our consumer society has become so bloated that recycling is no
>longer fashionable.....

How true.  My wardrobe from childhood to junior high consisted primarily of
my older sister's hand-me-downs.  (Until I learned to sew all my own 
things).  She took care of her clothes so it was less obvious.  After that, 
we'd redo things--turn pants into shorts, add borders to lengthen a 
skirt or give them to the church rummage sale (if the fabric wasn't
appropriate for reworking).  Items we kept would be used as
outside play/work clothes until unusable, then cut up for dust cloths or 
scrub rags. This was the 50's and 60's.  We were middle class, not 
destitute or anything like that. I assume poorer people used their clothes 
even longer.  It was considered virtuous frugality at the time, not
recycling to save the planet.

If I were to suggest any of this to my daughter now, she'd have me 
institutionalized.
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> After that,
> we'd redo things--turn pants into shorts, add borders to lengthen a
> skirt or give them to the church rummage sale (if the fabric wasn't
> appropriate for reworking).  Items we kept would be used as
> outside play/work clothes until unusable, then cut up for dust cloths or
> scrub rags. This was the 50's and 60's.  We were middle class, not
> destitute or anything like that. I assume poorer people used their clothes
> even longer.  It was considered virtuous frugality at the time, not
> recycling to save the planet.

Virtuous frugality indeed.  :)  I *like* it.   I personally felt *Very*
virtuous the other day when I did all my mending.  It's as if I have new
clothes.  *G*  But this is a great idea.  Thrift stores are great these days
but has anyone noticed that there just aren't as many places to drop things off
at anymore?  Shorts into pants etc...  It's so sad how wasteful we have become
especially in the U.S.  It's very heartening to know that folks are trying not
to do that as much.  It a centuries old tradition and a good one.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 12:00:53 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress - "princess" seams
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Just a quickie comment: The painting referred to in the quote:

"The earliest documentable occurance of princess line cutting that I
know of is from a painting of the Virgin and Child by Jean Fouquet
from about 1430-1450.  
http://cgfa.kelloggcreek.com/fouquet/p-fouquet3.htm  Without going out
on too much of a limb, you could probably justify using a princess
line cut for a dress as early as around 1420 or so"

is referring to a 15th century garment, not a 14th century one.  This
means that the author found NOTHING to support a "princess line"
garment earlier than this.  Therefore, if you are wanting to do 14th
century French, this is probably not a design you need to use.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 12:33:06 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 10:44:55 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: H-COST: russian
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

First off, please pardon the cross posting.  :}

Well, now I feel silly for not paying more attention to the fairly
recent Russian discussions.  Our current reign in the SCA does
"russian".  I have no idea what time period if that matters.  So our
Yule feast is going to be Russian in theme.  And I would like to
participate.

I would like to make something relatively quickly if that is at all
possible, not too picky about accuracy, more interested in silhouette
and fabrics looking right.  And if it's too much, I'll wear my new
black velvet cotehardie with the gold shot silk lined sleeves and
ghita and say "oh, well".  *GGGG*

Any quick web sites with pictures??  And condensed commentary?

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 12:33:08 1999
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From: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 16th cent German-organ pipe pleats
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:43:15 GMT
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-Poster: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>

Okay, considering my name, I think I have to make one of these Cranach 
gowns. *G*  So if I'm making these organ pipe pleats in the skirt, what's 
the math that goes with it?  How do I figure the waist circumference before 
pleating?  For example, if I'm making box pleats the rule of thumb is to 
have 3x your waist measurement.  What would it be for organ pipes?

Tara


------------------------------
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 12:42:57 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Burda
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-Poster: ches@io.com

I have lost my url for the Burda link and cannot locate it anywhere. Does
anyone have it?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 12:54:15 1999
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
In-Reply-To: <199909221536.RAA15108@worldonline.nl>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Wed, 22 Sep 1999, Henk 't Jong wrote:

> I'm afraid I must disagree here. I find John Peacock a very poor artist who
> pictured the costumes in a very unclear and rather clumsy way. You can see
> this for yourself if you compare his pictures with his models. He mixes
> periods (especially in the middle ages) and draws several anachronisms. His
> comments are not very good either. Personally I hate the heavy men's legs
> he draws.

I must agree with Henk. I don't know how Peacock is for the periods I
don't work on myself, but his medieval section is wretched. The book seems
to me to be designed for those theater costumers with no interest in
period techniques; it shows many modernizations in both silhouette and
cut, presumably to translate the medieval image to modern aesthetics and
construction methods.

If you're looking for a source that shows the medieval look and cut, I
would advise against relying on an author who inserts "restraining straps" 
at the sides of a sideless surcote. Either he misinterpreted the belt
visible through the open side in a medieval illustration, or he added the
strap so that theater costumers could make the surcote pull closer to the
body for a look that is presumably more appealing to the 20th-century eye. 

--Robin, in a rare fit of pique

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 13:09:06 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:20:23 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

>How true.  My wardrobe from childhood to junior high consisted primarily of
>my older sister's hand-me-downs.  

> Items we kept would be used as
>outside play/work clothes until unusable, then cut up for dust cloths or 
>scrub rags. This was the 50's and 60's.  We were middle class, not 
>destitute or anything like that. I assume poorer people used their clothes 
>even longer.  It was considered virtuous frugality at the time, not
>recycling to save the planet.
>
>If I were to suggest any of this to my daughter now, she'd have me 
>institutionalized.

Reading this, I realized that I am about to dye a pair of trousers that
my sister (age 33) bought in a charity shop, grew out of (sideways) and
handed on to me (age 30).  And instead of throwing out the pyjama
jackets my husband never wears, I gave them to him for bike-cleaning
rags.  Old habits ....
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 13:14:24 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

>even longer.  It was considered virtuous frugality
> at the time, not
> >recycling to save the planet.
> >
> >If I were to suggest any of this to my daughter
> now, she'd have me 
> >institutionalized.
> 

I recently suggested to my sister that a great place
to get cheap clothes that can make really cool outfits
or be modified without fear of "messing up something
expensive" was the Goodwill... I was then promptly
told that I am "so uncool" and how long had it been
since I was in high school?  *sigh*  I guess I am no
longer with the "in" crowd.

But, I have found some absolutely wonderful treasures
that can be modified beyond imagination... I once
purchased a button down shirt over which I built a
"costume" for someone who had to change costumes
rapidly in a play... and there are always the old
curtains that give great fabric!

Enough, though from me... I will continue to find
other people's discards as my treasure (I realize as I
notice I am wearing an old pair of my mother's jeans
and my dad's sweater ;-)

Sarah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 13:20:37 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 12:33:19 -0600 (MDT)
From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, SCA Garb <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Subject: Re: H-COST: russian
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-Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>


<I would like to make something relatively quickly if that is at all
<possible, not too picky about accuracy, more interested in silhouette
<and fabrics looking right.  

I'd recommend a sarafan - easy, comfortable, and immediately
identifiable as Russian.

Check out the pages I've put on my site
(http://www.indra.com/~eliz/sca.html) or check out the home page for
the SCA's Slavic Interest Group (SIG)
(http://vms.www.uwplatt.edu/~goldschp/slavic.html)

						...eliz
						(SCA; Yelizaveta Medvedeva)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 13:59:09 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 12:18:56 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

 Thrift stores are great these days
>but has anyone noticed that there just aren't as many places to drop things
off
>at anymore?
>Cynthia

The Valley Children's Hospital here in Fresno used to have a playhouse out
in front of it. It was completely closed except for a hole to put things
through. It was used asa donation receptrical.  All the stuff went to a
small thrift store, in another area of town. that was run by a bunch of
retired, elderly women who were strictly volunteers.  The thrift store is
still there but, since the hosiptal has moved to the top end of town, huge
and completely modernized, there doesn't seem to be that receptrical any
more.   So, yeah, I have noticed that it is becoming harder to give your
stuff away.
Michelle

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Message-ID: <005101bf052e$adb94d20$ad3daccf@e4c2n6>
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990922183835.11142.rocketmail@web805.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 15:14:19 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Oh, I just got back from Goodwill with my lastest treasure!  It is a vest
with about 50 antique buttons sewn all over it.  Really cool buttons,
Victorian, coins, a glass globe, and shield shaped, to name a few. It cost
me $5.00. I love thrift store shopping! We do seem to have a lot of them in
Richmond.  I look for a lot of one-of-a-kinds that people have added details
to them.  I am one of those people who just die if someone shows up wearing
the same thing I am wearing.   My goal is to create a whole outfit for $20
or less.

Darn, Katie just tried on the vest and won't take it off.  The battle for
clothes has begun!

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 14:21:08 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909221536.RAA15108@worldonline.nl>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 20:33:28 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 Well we must differ then; You are the first person that I have come across
that does not think that Peacocks style is simplistic.
Somebody once put down my own work as being a bit like his so  perhaps there
is hope for me fter all.
Dave

L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters

>
> -Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
  >
> Hi,
>
> Dave wrote:
> > Amongst many , there is one book that I find very useful for hasty
> > reference; with such a bad memeory its important to me.
> > John Peacocks -Costume 1066-1990; It's just pictures with overwritten
> short
> > notes ( but it is only UK in most parts) 130?pages at 8 illustrations
per
> > page, broken down into the relevant periods It's simplistic but quick.
>
> I'm afraid I must disagree here. I find John Peacock a very poor artist
who
> pictured the costumes in a very unclear and rather clumsy way. You can see
> this for yourself if you compare his pictures with his models. He mixes
> periods (especially in the middle ages) and draws several anachronisms.
His
> comments are not very good either. Personally I hate the heavy men's legs
> he draws.
>


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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 13:33:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: White
In-Reply-To: <l03110700b40db3168505@[209.176.240.50]>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Tue, 21 Sep 1999, Deb Baddorf wrote:
> I've read that parts of (modern) Europe have different tastes
> in "white" than the USA has --- and that a mild pink tone is
> desired (and therefore manufactured)  in their "whites".
>     So white isn't always white ....
> 
> Deb Baddorf

Funny, I've heard the same thing, but that yellow was the preferred tint,
specifically in Italy.

-- Mara

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 15:38:51 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

> You would think, that with all this 'retro' in style, more kids would think
> that thrift strores were the in thing.

I expect it depends how you were raised.  I had a friend from England
visit, and I suggested going to a used bookstore after dinner, and she
was *very* dubious until I reassured her that it was quite reputable,
etc.  She had a blast.  

If one was taught that only poor people need to buy used clothes, it
takes a visit to a good consignment shop or decent thrift store to let
reason prevail over training.  And, sometimes it never will.  There are
some things I know are rationally fine, but just can't do myself.

cv
--
"The most outrageous lies that can be invented will find believers if a
person only tells them with all his might."   -- Mark Twain
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 14:33:38 1999
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 13:46:00 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Princess seam/14th century Dress
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

I'm confused. We say that princess line seam didn't come around 
until the 15th century . . . I think someone said maybe as early as 
1420?

The Herjofsnes colony was abandoned somewhere between 1375 
and 1410 give or take a few years (thanks for the great web page, 
Marc!). The clothes from this find are estimated to be from the 14th 
and early 15th centuries. Some speculate that the styles were 
probably behind the continent. So am I correct in assuming that 
Herjofsnes gowns came before the princess seam?

If so, this is where I'm really confused. When I look at the diagram 
of a Herjofsnes gown, for example, No. 38 on Marc's site at

http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/
cloth/herjol38.html 

(thanks again Marc) I interpret the seam between the center front 
panel and the side panel as a princess seam that ends at the 
armhole.

So if I take the view that Herjofsnes picked up some of their design 
ideas from the continent and reflect the style a few years behind  
the rest of Europe (I know, this is speculation and may not be the 
case), can I assume that a cotehardie of say 1365 might have been 
done in panels and used a princess seam?

Are my assumptions too wild, my eras off, or maybe my definition 
of a cotehardie not quite right? I believe the Elizabeth Crowfoot, 
Clothing and Textiles book shows the Herjofsnes diagram as a 
plausible construction for a cotehardie; however I don't have my 
references with me.

Thanks!


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 15:57:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
In-Reply-To: <00bc01bf0530$2ff7c7c0$736ffea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Wed, 22 Sep 1999, Michelle wrote:
> You would think, that with all this 'retro' in style, more kids would think
> that thrift strores were the in thing.
> Michelle

Well, from what I understand, the whole retro look got started by a few
pop/rock singers who went shopping at thrift stores when they were just
starting out, then suddenly hit the big time and didn't bother to upgrade
their wardrobes.  So it's ironic that their imitators refuse to shop in
thrift shops!

-- Mara

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Wed, 22 Sep 1999, Sarah Toney wrote:
> I think it also depends on how your friends perceive
> you (at least in the case of kids)... my sisters and I
> were raised (until I moved out) on nothing but
> secondhands, but my sisters still think it is awful,
> now that they can have new clothes...  My sister says
> it is more of she couldn't stand having her friends
> know she shopped there.
> 
> Sarah

I understand the value of a good thrift shop, but still... since most of
my clothes, growing up, were from thrift shops (being a Navy brat, we
didn't have much money), it's hard for me to get around my old resentment
of having to wear secondhand stuff.  I'll occasionally shop at the local
thrift shop, but it's usually when I'm dropping stuff off.  

Mom still shops at thrift shops and is continually shoving stuff at me
anyway, whether I can use it or not, which isn't a particularly thrifty
habit -- if you spent $2 on something that will never be used, you've
still wasted $2.

-- Mara

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From: "Johanna R. Forte" <forte@kutztown.edu>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dancing at Lughnasa production
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-Poster: "Johanna R. Forte" <forte@kutztown.edu>

Help!!!  Our theatre is doing a producton of Dancing at Lughnasa.
Unfortunately, I've come up a bit short on two points in my research on
the clothing for the 1930's and earlier.  Can someone tell me where I can
find a picture of a short version of the Wellington boot.  In my research
I repeatedly find the same blurb:  "By the late 1920's, rubber wellingtons
were being worn in inclement weather by women as well as by men."  But no
picture or description.  Can anyone direct me to a source?  Also, I am in
search of a picture or a description of a British army officers chaplains
uniform from about 1911.  I have a picture from the film version of the
play, but am reluctant to use that as a primary source.  I've looked
everywhere that I can think of and I'd greatly appreciate even the
smallest of tidbits. Much thanks!!   

Johanna R. Forte
Costume Designer
Kutztown University


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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.3.96.990922154547.25306E-100000@pooh>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dancing at Lughnasa production
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 21:30:54 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

If you  are searching make sure you say Rubber Wellington as the real
Wellington is technically something  different ; Try a search on Paddington
Bear- a famous wearer of short red rubber Wellies, or maybe try Dunlop.
If no joy let me know and I will go hunt with my camera.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
----- Original Message -----
From: Johanna R. Forte <forte@kutztown.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 1999 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dancing at Lughnasa production


>
> -Poster: "Johanna R. Forte" <forte@kutztown.edu>
>
> Help!!!  Our theatre is doing a producton of Dancing at Lughnasa.
> Unfortunately, I've come up a bit short on two points in my research on
> the clothing for the 1930's and earlier.  Can someone tell me where I can
> find a picture of a short version of the Wellington boot.  In my research
> I repeatedly find the same blurb:  "By the late 1920's, rubber wellingtons
> were being worn in inclement weather by women as well as by men."  But no
> picture or description.  Can anyone direct me to a source?  Also, I am in
> search of a picture or a description of a British army officers chaplains
> uniform from about 1911.  I have a picture from the film version of the
> play, but am reluctant to use that as a primary source.  I've looked
> everywhere that I can think of and I'd greatly appreciate even the
> smallest of tidbits. Much thanks!!
>
> Johanna R. Forte
> Costume Designer
> Kutztown University
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 15:46:18 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 14:01:23 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Princess seam/14th century Dress
References: <199909221948.NAA21232@email.boisestate.edu>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> The Herjofsnes colony was abandoned somewhere between 1375
> and 1410 give or take a few years (thanks for the great web page,
> Marc!). The clothes from this find are estimated to be from the 14th
> and early 15th centuries. Some speculate that the styles were
> probably behind the continent. So am I correct in assuming that
> Herjofsnes gowns came before the princess seam?

yes.


> http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/
> cloth/herjol38.html
>
> (thanks again Marc) I interpret the seam between the center front
> panel and the side panel as a princess seam that ends at the
> armhole.

Ah, I see.  Hmmmm.  Well I suppose that could be left to
interpretation.  But see, that seam is completely under the arm.  A
princess seam goes over the breast.  Alway.  It might end at either the
armhole or the shoulder but it *always* goes over the breast.  None of
the seams in the Herjolfenes dress do that.  They are all under the arm.

> So if I take the view that Herjofsnes picked up some of their design
> ideas from the continent and reflect the style a few years behind
> the rest of Europe (I know, this is speculation and may not be the
> case), can I assume that a cotehardie of say 1365 might have been
> done in panels and used a princess seam?

Nope.  Not princess seams.  Not that I can tell anyway.

> Are my assumptions too wild, my eras off, or maybe my definition
> of a cotehardie not quite right? I believe the Elizabeth Crowfoot,
> Clothing and Textiles book shows the Herjofsnes diagram as a
> plausible construction for a cotehardie; however I don't have my
> references with me.

The confusion lies, you were right, with a definition of the princess
seam.  Once you see that the seams in the gowns you mention are *not*
princess seams things become clearer I hope.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 16:14:13 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:24:48 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

>> However, I've recently heard a good argument for a 4-piece cut with inset
>> gores for this style of gown.
>
>I am in agreement with Irene here.  I, too, use the 4 piece cut with inset
>gores.  I would love to hear your argument for this Irene!

Well, it wasn't my argument, it was Robin Netherton's.  Quoted below 
(with her permission) is the relevant passage from a private conversation.

--------------------
I use a plain four-piece construction with gores. I've actually
found a picture or two that show those seam lines, too -- front, back, and
two sides, nothing else. There's a bit of a trick to cutting the neck and
the armholes so you have flexibility in certain directions, and the result
is that the dress raises the breasts high up.  You also get incredible
elastic-like tension on the neckline that holds it right against the body,
no gapping or "falling out."

It's a logical cut that doesn't require introduction/justification of any
new pieces (it's the standard tunic pattern just tarted up with shaping on
the seam lines). I've found that simply by increasing the degree of
shaping on these seam lines, I can replicate the various stages in the
slow development of fitting over the course of the 14th century. In other
words, I can start from an unfitted gown of 1320, alter the cut slightly
and get the gown of 1350, alter it a little more and get the gown of 1380,
etc. Except for the introduction of the set-in sleeve (about 1320) and the
center front opening, none of the changes are major, just incremental to
what came before. I like finding progressions like that; I think they make
a lot more sense than introducing fundamentally new cuts. It's also very
exciting to discover the points at which a seemingly small change in an
existing cut (as little as a half-inch increase in a curve, sometimes) 
creates a significant change in the finished look. The initial assumption
of the modern observer is typically that there's a whole new construction,
but it's far more logical that it would be just a tiny (but key) change on
existing methods.


Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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Subject: H-COST: Cotehardie vs. Kirtle (and other costuming terms)
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:26:48 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

In the thread about the 14th century gown, Merouda wrote:
>The first problem is that none of you are talking about a cotehardie.  The
>'kirtles' you are referring to came along 40-50 years later.  Minimum.  Just
>to clarify that.  As far as I can tell cotehardies were a four panel dress,
>no princess seams what so ever.

This touches on something that's been bugging me for quite a while now.

Ever since I first saw these two words, I've seen them used 
interchangeably.  Every time I've tried to track down an "official" 
definition, I've been unable to find any source that I considered 
reliable or authoritative.  If I were to ask ten people to define 
"kirtle" and "cotehardie", I'd likely get twenty different defintions.

And this phenomenon isn't just for these two words.  I've encountered it 
for other costuming terms as well. (Although - darn it! - I can't think 
of an example right now.)

So I'm wondering, where do people get their definitions from?  Is there a 
costuming text out there somewhere that lists the terms, defines them, 
and states its rationale and the roots of the words?

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909222124.RAA16701@bajor.ici.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:55:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>



>
> -Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
>
> >> However, I've recently heard a good argument for a 4-piece cut with
inset
> >> gores for this style of gown.
> >
So what does one say to the garb snarks who say that the 10 gore greenland
gown is the only authentic cut for a cotehardie.  I'm assuming they are
using this cut because although the garment it quite tight and very fitted,
it does have the same number of seams and gores.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 16:33:12 1999
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909222126.RAA16752@bajor.ici.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Cotehardie vs. Kirtle (and other costuming terms)
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 14:43:27 -0700
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> So I'm wondering, where do people get their definitions from?  Is there a
> costuming text out there somewhere that lists the terms, defines them,
> and states its rationale and the roots of the words?

If you read "Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince" you'll find that there
were different names for each type of garment in different countries, and
sometimes different names used by different people keeping records in the
same country.  Also, the same name might apply to different garments at
different times.  So, I'm afraid you aren't likely to get a good, standard
set of terms and definitions, unfortunately.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 16:42:49 1999
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Subject: H-COST: organ pipe pleats: a plea from the confused
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 99 14:55:32 -0700
x-sender: gdecamp@shell12.ba.best.com
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From: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
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-Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>


Hi Julie!

Please help... I'm still confused... do you have a line drawing of this
on your website? I'd really really love to see a picture!

1) When you say the pleat is pinched, do you mean you physically
pinch it, or is that a tailoring term?

This part I can picture, I think:

>Organ pipe pleats are done on a garment cut as gores or in the round. Each
>pleat is pinched and sewn on the inside vertically from waist to hem in the
>most precise garments and at least 6-8" from the waist in the women's
>gowns. Each pleat is held in place by stay tapes tacked to the inside of
>the garment.  Each organ pipe pleat is a set size. 

but in this part, what do you mean by "there is no depth to it"? Does that
mean that the pleat is like a knife pleat that lies flat against the 
waistband?

>The skirt is sewn to the
>ribbon or band in similar to cartridge pleating, but each pleat is wider
>and has a slight curve and there is no depth to it. The skirt is almost
>flat when attached to the band, except for each pinch between pleats, so it
>falls without a ledge to the top of the skirt into a more conical form.

thanks!

Gail




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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> So what does one say to the garb snarks who say that the 10 gore greenland
> gown is the only authentic cut for a cotehardie.

Too piss off.  *GGG*  Ooops sorry, bad language.  I would ask them for their
definitive documentation because you are desperate need of some.  *GGGG*  All I
know is that no matter which costume book *of good repute* I have read re:
kirtles and cotehardies, cotehardies are always the 14th century gown with very
obvious details to their 'silhouette' and I have never seen a gown referred to
in the 15th century past say 1415 as a cotehardie.  Also, just because a book
says something, my eyes and experience tell me that they aren't always right.
Just because the author is an archaeologist doesn't mean they've actually made
a gown and then worn it to see how it all works.

> I'm assuming they are
> using this cut because although the garment it quite tight and very fitted,
> it does have the same number of seams and gores.

But that gown doesn't have tight buttoned sleeves and no lacing or buttons to
get in and out of it.  There is no way that gown could fit as tight as a
cotehardie does because the Greenland Gowns all have to come of the head and
shoulders.  And I have seen no evidence that these extant gowns have the same
number of seams and gores.  What are you comparing the Greenland Gowns too that
has the same number of gores and seams?  Now, mind you, I probably have not
seen all the evidence.  And some day we might be fortunate to have some more.
But I have spent two obsessive years in the University of Washington Libraries
researching 14th century clothing, particularly cotehardies, and that is what I
have come up with so far.  No extant cotehardies.  If I'm not mistaken Henk
agrees with me on that one.  *G*  And he's halfway around the world!

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 16:50:07 1999
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 16:02:46 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Princess seam/14th century Dress
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

> >I interpret the seam between the center front
> > panel and the side panel as a princess seam that ends at the
> > armhole.
> 
> But see, that seam is completely under the arm.  A
> princess seam goes over the breast.  Alway.  

Ok, that makes since. Part of what defines the princess line is 
placement. So you can have a cotehardie made from 10 panels, 
but the seams are not the curvy, down the center of the breast type.
 
OK, I'm off to revise my 10-panel pattern . . . or maybe create a 
new 4-panel pattern ;-)

Thanks!


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 16:56:25 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:39:02 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Houppelande
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 9/22/99 4:20:50 PM !!!First Boot!!!, scapreel@tip.nl 
writes:

<<  If you study portaits from the 12th-15th 
 > centuries you can see the evolution of this garment. 
 
 IMO houppelandes came into being in the second half of the 14th c. I
 suppose they are a follow-up of the gardecorps/supertotus type of overcoat,
 which can be traced to ca 1250 or a bit earlier. But 12th c; I don't think
 so.
 
 Henk >>


Where did the guardecorp come from?  It evolved from a garment that 
pre-existed it etc. etc. etc.  I spoke of evolution, and the reason I chose 
the 12th century as a recomended starting point is that I know there is 
portraiture of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine in loose fitting garments 
that somewhat resemble a houppelande.  I did not mean to imply that the 
houppeande started coming into being in the 12th century, but then again in a 
manner of speaking...I guess it was in the process. I ask that you please 
excuse my failure to adequately clarify what I meant.

Charels
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 16:57:46 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>So what does one say to the garb snarks who say that the 10 gore greenland
>gown is the only authentic cut for a cotehardie. 

Well, my favorite thing to say to garb snarks is "Who died and made you
Janet Arnold?"

However, to be more politic, you might try "Perhaps you are unaware that
there are a number of theorys as to what constitutes a cotehardie", and them
blast them with bibliographies, page numbers, footnotes, references, obscure
articles, contempory references, thread counts, electron microscope
examinations....Documentation can be tedious,  but it's very satisfying when
used against the Costume Police.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 16:59:54 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Ok, that makes since. Part of what defines the princess line is
> placement. So you can have a cotehardie made from 10 panels,
> but the seams are not the curvy, down the center of the breast type.
>
> OK, I'm off to revise my 10-panel pattern . . . or maybe create a
> new 4-panel pattern ;-

Great!  And, personally?  I would call it a version of the Greenland
Gown.  There's no shame in calling it what it is, a replica of the
Herjolfnes Gown  #41 or #38 (or whichever one you use).  In fact, I
would consider that a thing to be proud of.  But I still wouldn't call
it a cotehardie.  *shrug*  That's just me.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 17:01:43 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:12:33 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I, for one, hit consignment stores & thrift shops (which abound in
Nashville!) because it's the only way I can get Gap, Old Navy etc and
silk/linin etc in my price range.  My favorite is the Goodwill Warehouse
where I can buy a loooot of silk because all the clothes are $1.27 a
*pound*.  We have tons of places to put clothes in for consignment and
Goodwill, Salvation Army, ARP and Disabled Vets all collect clothes (and
some even come to your door!).  I tend to take mine & the kids clothes
to the Women's Shelter.  Some women leave a bad situation with only the
clothes on their backs or have nothing suitable for wearing to job
interviews or business jobs.  They also like getting any kitchen items
and furniture (they help set up women in new apartments).  I'll probably
get around to my mending some day... probably right after I track down
where the heck my Girl Scout Leader notebook has gone!!

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 17:18:48 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Charles de Blois Pourpoint pattern
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 15:30:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


>Well, my favorite thing to say to garb snarks is "Who died and made you
Janet Arnold?"

ROFL!

In Naomi Tarrant's book "Development of Costume", she has a rough line
drawing of the Charles de Blois Pourpoint pattern.  She references a circa
1929? article where someone took a pattern.  Has anyone seen this source?
Is it of reasonable quality to use for a pattern template?  I'm not
expecting JArnold or JHunnniset contruction details, but I would like some
idea of where the ease is (if any), where and what shaping materials to use
and a picture of the back contruction.

I'd love to see something drafted from the original garment or contemporary
pourpoint.


--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 17:21:49 1999
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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


Not all that long ago, when I was in high school, it was.  Cheap was *in*,
from thrift stores to K-mart.  Granted, the trend that started this wasn't
so much "retro" as "grunge", but kids do have at least a little sense.

On the other hand, as I do most of my fabric and clothing shopping at
thrift stores, I would encourage all those with tastes similar to mine in
my area to *shop elsewhere* and leave all the great bargans and stellar
finds to me! ;>

Emma, the vintage-clothes-wearing, hand-me-down-accepting, cheap packrat
(who just recieved a box of clothes from the closet of the mother of a
friend of her fathers, because word has gotten around that "Emma likes old
clothes")

> You would think, that with all this 'retro' in style, more kids would think
> that thrift strores were the in thing.
> Michelle

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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 22 Sep 1999, Michelle wrote:

> 
> You would think, that with all this 'retro' in style, more kids would think
> that thrift strores were the in thing.
Grunge is dying out I think. About three years agon when my sister was still
at uni' she used to get compliments from her friends about a jumper she had.
It had belonged to my dad (and therefore was about five sizes too big for 
her), had faded to a sort of generic grey, and was unravelling at the 
sleeves. They thought it was fabulous. Around then there were two or three
stores in the city centre alone that sold old seventies clothes etc (and
I'm not talking op shops), now there is one and I think that is closing down.
There has been, however, an upsurge in 'Recycled Fashion' shops, selling
second-hand high fashion clothing (ladies suits etc), which are still too
expensive for students to shop at but cheaper than buying designer stuff
brand new. 
 When I was an undergrad I used to shop at op shops all the time, basically
because I couldn't afford to buy a piece of clothing if it cost more
than $5-10 (and of course, I liked the retro stuff). And when I was a kiddie
hand-me-downs were the order of the day, although, being the eldest I guess
I didn't suffer so much than that. There were five of us you see, so even
my brothers got handed down unisex clothes like romper suits, jumpers, 
wellington boots, shirts, coats. and, of course, being a shrimp (even when
I was a kiddie) I could wear stuff longer (I had a jumper marked 2-4 that
I was still wearing when I was 10). 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 18:55:10 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings--

>So what does one say to the garb snarks who say that the 10 gore greenland
>gown is the only authentic cut for a cotehardie.  I'm assuming they are
>using this cut because although the garment it quite tight and very fitted,
>it does have the same number of seams and gores.


I say this:  Just because we're lucky to have a surviving garment that shows
this cut does not automatically mean the same cut was used all over Europe
during the entire "cotehardie period."  I'd ask those same folks this:  the
GG does not have buttons or lacing down the front, yet we have plenty of
pictoral evidence of same. What do they make of that?

The GG is *an* authentic 14th century piece of clothing. It's not *the*
authentic 14th century piece of clothing.  And if you look at some of the
ways of patterning that went before, the four panel gown with gores is a
logical evolution.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 18:14:09 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: terminology
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<So I'm wondering, where do people get their definitions from?  Is there a
costuming text out there somewhere that lists the terms, defines them,
and states its rationale and the roots of the words?>>

Why don't you just start with the Oxford English Dictionary (OED), and be
done with it ?


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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
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References: <199909222124.RAA16701@bajor.ici.net> <002601bf0545$3c89a840$bbee7ad1@pavilion>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 00:31:08 +0100
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 > -Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
 > > >
> So what does one say to the garb snarks who say that the 10 gore greenland
> gown is the only authentic cut for a cotehardie.  I'm assuming they are
> using this cut because although the garment it quite tight and very
fitted,
> it does have the same number of seams and gores.
> Andrea
 Well don't send them to this list ; they are already starting to breed here
and finding new ways of virtual snarking.
You can always ask them how easy it is to hoik for purposes of nature and
then ask them what they use instead of toilet tissue.
Dave


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 18:20:37 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

What are you comparing the Greenland Gowns too that
> has the same number of gores and seams?  Now, mind you, I probably have
not
> seen all the evidence.

There are a handfull of women in my area that wear what I would call
cotehardies, very tightly fitted through the waist or hips with tons of
buttons down the front and up each arm.  All these women must be using the
same pattern, a rectangle for front and back with a gore in the center and
the sides all 4 panels.  It looks like a very tight version of the greenland
gown.  Some of these women are laurels.  Some of the others I have overheard
snarking when they see someone wearing a tight cotehardie-like garment using
any other pattern.  I just assumed that this was the only authentic cut for
this dress and have hesitated making them since the greenland cut doesn't
work for my figure.  I have thrown out more than a few muslin mock-ups
trying it.
Andrea

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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <v01520d01b40f15115916@[205.217.218.101]>
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



>
> -Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
>
> <<So I'm wondering, where do people get their definitions from?  Is there
a
> costuming text out there somewhere that lists the terms, defines them,
> and states its rationale and the roots of the words?>>
>
> Why don't you just start with the Oxford English Dictionary (OED), and be
> done with it ?
 I think we will have to start with something a little simpler, and build up
gradually.
Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 18:30:38 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 16:45:46 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

>  Well don't send them to this list ; they are already starting to breed here
> and finding new ways of virtual snarking.

Just curious why you would say that.  Most strong opinions on this list are
always stated as such.  It's extremely rare for folks to be mean here.  At least
so I thought.  Although because it *is* such a difficult medium to communicate
in, maybe one persons ceiling is another persons floor.  :)

> You can always ask them how easy it is to hoik for purposes of nature and
> then ask them what they use instead of toilet tissue.

That's a good one.  *G*


--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <00bc01bf0530$2ff7c7c0$736ffea9@gunsafes> <37E92FE1.EE39A55A@thibault.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:43:22 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I don't know about you all Goodwill stores but ours are very clean, the
clothes are very organized, have some displays, and the clothes are sorted
by color or patterns (floral, plaids, and colors are on separate racks).  I
ran in the store today with sweat pants and a sweater on and felt I was
under dressed for the store.  The customers were in suits or nice outfits.
When I was leaving, I passed a very well dressed lady who just got out of
her BMW.

My recylcing stories...

I grew up on second hand clothes, other than the ones I made.  My kids have
been raised on second hand clothes.  When my boys reach about 16, they go to
the teenage trendy stores, but they have to buy their own clothes.  This
lasts about two years, then they go back to the thrift stores on their own.
My oldest son, 22 y.o. (we call him Mr. Fashion) shops only at thrift stores
or the clearance racks.  He has the gift of coordinating clothes like you
wouldn't believe.  He even coordinates his girlfriend's wardrobe.  BUT...
many people don't know this, but my son does this all the time, you can
bargain down the prices at thrift stores.  My oldest has bringing down the
price to a science.  He even bargains down the dept. stores.  He truely has
a gift for this.  I saw him bargaining people down at garage sales when he
was nine years old.  This son and his girlfriend search the ads for friends
and family who want to buy used cars.  This is their hobby.  Then he goes
with them to bargain the car price with the seller. Sometimes, if it is a
friend of a friend, he charges a commission or finder's fee.  Can you tell
he is a business major?

Since I was a merchandising major, I have taught all my kids about markup
and how far someone is willing to markdown but still make a profit.  Last
night, my 16 y.o. son, bought a VCR from KMart.  I stood beside him and
watched what he did.  I never said a word. The VCR orginally cost $149.  He
talked them down to $129 because the box was opened. He told them that
Circuit City has a policy about open boxes, and did KMart want to match CC
policy.  Then he pulled the VCR out of the box and saw a small scratch on
it.  He bought the VCR for $119.

My 7 y.o. daughter, Katie, and her girlfriends swap clothes all the time.
They can't wait for one another to out grow their clothes, because they pass
them down.  It is really funny, because they look at it as an honor to get
to wear their older friends clothes.  They also swap Barbie clothes.
Recently one of her friends had a birthday.  I asked Katie why don't we buy
her friend some Barbie clothes.  She said, "We don't BUY Barbie clothes.  We
swap them or make them.  We buy new Barbies, so they have more friends."

I think our attitude toward recycling clothes has a lot to do with the way
you are raised.  I came from a large family (8 kids), everything was used.
As a child, I thought we were rich because I had so many clothes and other
kids wore the same five outfits all the time.  Believe me, we were not on
the rich side.  I have a large family (6 kids) and we have the tradition of
passing clothes down.  Our society has become such a throw away society.
Clothing is made to last more than one season.  A pair of my daughter's
shorts is in an exhibit at the Valentine Museum.  The shorts has been worn
by four little girls, and the shorts still look new!  Each of the previous
owners (the little girls) have been to the exhibit and said, "There are our
shorts in the window." Yes, we retired those flowered biker shorts to a
museum!  So now, those shorts have a fifth owner.  If you think about it
almost all the items in museum collections are hand-me-downs and most of the
time, they got them for free!  The history behind the clothes is what makes
them more valuable.

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 18:37:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 16:53:09 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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References: <199909222124.RAA16701@bajor.ici.net> <002601bf0545$3c89a840$bbee7ad1@pavilion> <37E95258.EDA76282@serv.net> <001801bf0554$3f677600$44d67ad1@pavilion>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> There are a handfull of women in my area that wear what I would call
> cotehardies, very tightly fitted through the waist or hips with tons of
> buttons down the front and up each arm.  All these women must be using the
> same pattern, a rectangle for front and back with a gore in the center and
> the sides all 4 panels.  It looks like a very tight version of the greenland
> gown.

And very probably is.  :)  But I suspect the lacings make it tight.  The
Greenland Gowns don't have lacing.  At least not the ones that have been found
so far.  Only time will tell.

> Some of these women are laurels.

Most laurels I know are wonderful informed and well researched in their fields
so I would never presume to say one way or the other about their opinions.  I
would just state mine until they procuced something better.  I am always hoping
to find something better.  Maybe, since you have such a good source, you could
ask and pass on the info??  Pretty please?

> Some of the others I have overheard
> snarking when they see someone wearing a tight cotehardie-like garment using
> any other pattern.  I just assumed that this was the only authentic cut for
> this dress and have hesitated making them since the greenland cut doesn't
> work for my figure.  I have thrown out more than a few muslin mock-ups
> trying it.

The Laurel's (for those not familiar with the SCA, a Laurel is considered a
Master/Mistress at their particular skill/forum, it don't get any better than
that in our Society) in our neck of the woods are usually very forthcoming with
information and willing to help.  Questions are always welcome for the most
part.  After all, one of the things they get to do once being made a Laurel, is
to teach.  Might you consider asking them?  Like I said earlier, I have run out
of what I can find here at the University of Washington.  If there's more out
there, I would *love* to know.  These men and women are wonderful source and
from what I can tell, if you approach them with the aura of willingness to learn
and they can help you, they will.  If they can't, they'll probably know someone
who can.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Bornover
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 18:48:10 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 17:03:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Susan Courney <bd927@scn.org>
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Subject: H-COST: Turn of the century clothing
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-Poster: Susan Courney <bd927@scn.org>

Hi,

During a recent Y2K discussion, someone said, "why not just let the
century go back to 1900? We get to do the century over and maybe we could
get it right this time".  I disagreed (hey, I like being able to vote) but
did come up with the bright idea of being personally non-y2k compliant and
reverting to 1900's clothing.  For a couple of days at least.  Which
brings up a couple of questions.

A while back -- several months at least -- there was a discussion about a
corset maker back east who might still make the early century corsets.
The pink/peach one that goes from under the breasts to the hips.  Did
anyone ever contact them and did you get a response?  

I have been looking at various 1900s catalogs, fashion magazine and
pattern reprints.  Were Shirtwaists always black or white?  Did they have
mix and match combinations like we do now, or were the skirt and jacket
always the same fabric? I have some nice navy blue twill that will work
well for a suit (jacket and skirt combination).  I also have some silk
navy blue and white checked fabric (about 4 yds) that matches perfectly.
If I can't use it for a waist, could I do a second skirt? And mix and
match? 

Does anyone have a good source for a base for making the large hats?

We've discussed Gone with the wind in terms of victorian costumes, but
this is later.  Is the burgundy and feather gown she wears remotely
period? 
http://www.lib.utexas.edu/hrc/DOS/GWTW/wardrobe/ballgown/ball.html
There is a pattern out there for this dress, has anyone made it?

How about the green dressing gown?  
http://www.lib.utexas.edu/hrc/DOS/GWTW/wardrobe/dressinggown/drgown.html
pretty, but is it victorian?


Thanks for your help

Susan Courney

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 19:01:38 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Mid 19th Century Little Boy Clothes
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>The Adjutant's Office wrote:
>>
>> Can anyone recommend a pattern for a Civil War era-ish outfit for a
>> little boy? I realize that a three year old boy would probably be
>> still be in skirts, but I don't know that I'll be able to get him to
>> put another dress on, so I'm looking for something along the lines of
>> a sailor suit. My sewing ability is moderate and I can't draft my own
>> patterns, so I am hoping someone out there has done the work for me!
>>
>> Any suggestions, on-or-off list, will be very gratefully received!

I've seen decent boys patterns available from sewing stores that cater to
french Heirloom sewers, ribbon embroiderers and smockers.  Usually they are
demo'd in cottons, but if you change the outfit to a light wool, they would
work fine. They even have the little shorts buttoning to the top.

Its not too hard to make a wool sailor's hat, but there are patterns shown
in Workwomen's Guide. There are also a variety of children's frocks that
you could adapt if you have someone who can pattern them out for you.  I've
graded a few of them up directly on the fabric (so I don't have any
patterns, sorry), and they work fine. Your son is probably too small yet,
but I've cut one of the Greek fishermen's hats down for my 6 yr old and it
looked pretty good.   Most of the mid century kids seem to wear striped
socks, so I found some women's socks with a horizontal stripe that looked
like the pictures and sewed the tube down and the foot smaller (I don't
knit). It looked just right.

Julie Adams


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 07:43 PM 09/22/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>I don't know about you all Goodwill stores but ours are very clean, the
>clothes are very organized, have some displays, and the clothes are sorted
>by color or patterns

This is one of the reasons I hate shopping at Goodwill!!!   I don't know
about the rest of you, but I rarely go shopping thinking, "hey, I think I'll
buy something RED today, never mind waht it is or what size".  Or are the
ones near you organized within those color blocks?  The ones I've gone to
aren't:  red blouses, vests, skirts, sweaters, all neatly arranged on a rack
with no attention to size at all.

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Susan Courney wrote:

>
>
> I have been looking at various 1900s catalogs, fashion magazine and
> pattern reprints.  Were Shirtwaists always black or white?  Did they have

> mix and match combinations like we do now, or were the skirt and jacket
> always the same fabric? I have some nice navy blue twill that will work
> well for a suit (jacket and skirt combination).  I also have some silk
> navy blue and white checked fabric (about 4 yds) that matches perfectly.
> If I can't use it for a waist, could I do a second skirt? And mix and
> match?

Most commonly, from about 1900 to 1910 (which I assume are about the years
you're thinking of) shirtwaists to be worn as separates were white, ecru
(lace), or black.  However, other colors and patterns were worn, including
checks, stripes, and plaids.  For suits the jacket and skirt usually matched,
but again not always.  Suits  were most commonly made in some versatile,
conservative color; any fabric pattern (such as a tweed) was usually subdued.

There were also dresses of a patterned fabric, such as printed floral cottons,
where the bodice and skirt were made separately, but matched and were worn
together.  Such matching dresses were often also called "suits," but the term
is confusing to modern people who think of a suit as a jacket plus skirt or
pants.

Navy was a popular suit color, and the combination you are suggesting is
really pretty conservative, so I think it would be fine.

We published two books of women's clothing patterns that together cover the
years from 1900 through 1909.  Details are on our web site:

http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm

Fran Grimble

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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

Dear List Members,

I was wondering if anyone has seen the new book, called Costume Close-up, by 
Linda Baumgarten, Florine Carr, and John Watson. I am told that it consists 
of clothing patterns from the Colonial Williamsburg collections. I am most 
interested in obtaining this book. I heard of it's pending publication over a 
year ago, and have still not seen a copy anywhere. Has anyone on this list 
any information pertaining to this publication? And especially where it can 
be found. Thanks for your assistance.

Susan K.
(18th century reenactor)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 20:43:27 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: New Book
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I'm not sure if it is actually available yet, but it is listed in the current 
catalogue (that I just got today) of the Quite Specific Media Group, which 
includes Drama Books.  The book is Costume Close Up, ISBN 0-89676-226-2, 
selling for $24.95, with availability in September.  You can reach the 
company at info@quitespecificmedia.com.  Website is 
www.quitespecificmedia.com.
As soon as someone actually sees the book, please give us a report!
Ann Wass  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 21:00:31 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 22:13:43 -0400
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Rolled pleats...??
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>


Ok...I've been following the pleating threads, and when I first hit the
rolled pleats thread, I *thought* I knew what they'd look like when
finished.  I've come to the conclusion that I definitely don't (at least
not if they're wider than about 1/4 inch).  I just can't picture the end
result and how the material would fall.

Does anyone out there have a URL for a picture of a garment that used
rolled pleats?

Thanks,
-Elisabeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 21:07:42 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:46 PM 09/22/1999 -0400, you wrote: -Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton"
<mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
>If I were to suggest any of this to my daughter now, she'd have me 
>institutionalized.
       Whereas my almost 21 year old loves shopping Goodwill/&c., or having
me revamp things. :-)
cjc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 21:12:06 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/22/1999 16:46:58 Pacific Daylight Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@erols.com writes:

<<  The customers were in suits or nice outfits.
 When I was leaving, I passed a very well dressed lady who just got out of
 her BMW.
 
 My recylcing stories... >>

Ok, Penny, are you spying on me?  (JK)  Since I'm on the West Coast, I doubt 
it was me, but hey, eerily familiar scenario. Me and my BMW travel to all the 
"hot" shopping spots and none of them are Neiman Marcus, or as I like to call 
it "Needless Markup"

I have no trouble living on other's "leftovers"  - among my best finds, a 
coral silk suit with the tags still on it reading $275.00 for $21.00!  A 
maroon velvet evening set (dress and overjacket) from sometime in the late 
forties, early fifties for $20.00.  A darling Carol Little dress & jacket for 
$13.  

I just can't bring myself to pay retail... unless it's an incredibly luscious 
slice of silk charmeuse ----  but ready-made clothes, never!

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Love all, trust a few, do wrong to none: 
be able for thine enemy rather in power than use, 
and keep thy friend under thy own life's key: 
be checked for silence, but never taxed for speech..."
W. Shakespeare
http://come.to/costumes
http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/22/1999 17:16:37 Pacific Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< This is one of the reasons I hate shopping at Goodwill!!!   I don't know
 about the rest of you, but I rarely go shopping thinking, "hey, I think I'll
 buy something RED today, never mind waht it is or what size".  Or are the
 ones near you organized within those color blocks?  The ones I've gone to
 aren't:  red blouses, vests, skirts, sweaters, all neatly arranged on a rack
 with no attention to size at all.
  >>
Actually, I think some of the thrift stores around me are organized that way, 
and one of them is a Goodwill.  Salvation Army isn't though.  Since I'm 
usually looking for theatrical stuff, I am often looking for a particular 
color to stick into a costume that needs repair here and there.  I'd never 
really thought about it before.  However, no organization defect would keep 
me from hunting for that particular item of heavily beaded or exquisitely 
detailed special something I often find.  But if you're not into it, it can 
be tedious and it's certainly tiresome, because you really need to look at 
everything and double check for holes, flaws, missing buttons, etc.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If to do were as easy as to know what were good to do,
chapels had been churches, 
and poor men's cottages princes' palaces."
The Merchant of Venice, I, ii - William Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 21:20:45 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 21:31:59 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> 
> This is one of the reasons I hate shopping at Goodwill!!!   I don't
> know about the rest of you, but I rarely go shopping thinking, "hey, I
> think I'll buy something RED today, never mind waht it is or what
> size".  Or are the ones near you organized within those color blocks?
>  The ones I've gone to aren't:  red blouses, vests, skirts, sweaters,
> all neatly arranged on a rack with no attention to size at all.

Around here (Nashville, TN) they're ordered by size and *then* color
(and by type, pants; sweaters; ls shirts; etc) except for the Warehouse
which has *some* cohesion... but not much! <grin>  There you have to
look through a bazillion racks (well, not really but it takes me 3-5
hours to go through them all) that are only generally sorted by womens',
mens' and childrens'.  Most of our thrift stores & consignment shops do
it that way too (sort by type, size and *then* color, if they do color
at all).

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 21:21:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 22:17:17 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Book
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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

Thank you Ann for the info, I went to the web page, and even using the search 
feature it wasn't able to come up with the title. But I sent an e-mail to 
them and hopefully I will be hearing back soon. 
Susan
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Message-ID: <37E9A59D.E8D46822@home.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 20:59:25 -0700
From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Turn of the century clothing
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



Susan Courney wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Susan Courney <bd927@scn.org>
> 
> Hi,
> 

<snip>

> but did come up with the bright idea of being personally non-y2k 
> compliant and reverting to 1900's clothing.  For a couple of days at > least.

<snip>

I can't answer your questions, but I love this idea!  I neeed something
other than formal clothes for that periode, and showing up at work "Non
Y2K compliant" appeals.

Great idea.

russell Hedges
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 23:08:34 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>>
>...gown is the only authentic cut for a cotehardie.  I'm assuming they 
>are using this cut because although the garment it quite tight and very 
>fitted, it does have the same number of seams and gores.

"The garment is quite tight and fitted"... Um, really?

H-38's owner was a fairly small woman, based on her bones (About
4'6"-4'8" with a waist size of 37" in circumference).  "Fitted" yes,
but "tightly" fitted is a matter of opinion.

H-41 (possibly a man) has a 39.4" circumference.

Now we can argue about whether the Greenlanders at the end of 14th
century were starving or not, but I think we can be fairly sure that
"tubbiness" was not common (I speak as someone with a 42" waist
circumference).

I think these outfits are supposed to be a bit on the loose side, if
for no other reason than insulation.  They just have -really- large
skirts.

Marc
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 23:24:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Charles de Blois Pourpoint pattern
In-Reply-To: <000101bf054a$0f3abe10$6b037a86@cbarnes.phoenix.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Wed, 22 Sep 1999, Cynthia Barnes wrote:

> In Naomi Tarrant's book "Development of Costume", she has a rough line
> drawing of the Charles de Blois Pourpoint pattern.  She references a circa
> 1929? article where someone took a pattern.  Has anyone seen this source?
> Is it of reasonable quality to use for a pattern template?  I'm not
> expecting JArnold or JHunnniset contruction details, but I would like some
> idea of where the ease is (if any), where and what shaping materials to use
> and a picture of the back contruction.

Blanche Payne has an excellent graphed pattern of this in the back of the
FIRST edition of her History of Costume. I don't think it's in the second
edition. You might be able to find a copy of the first edition at a
library; it's scarce now. My copy is someone's old college text, all
marked up and with some pictures cut out, but the patterns intact, hurrah. 

Combining the pattern with her photo of the front of the pourpoint and a
close up of a bit of the inside, and Stella Mary Newton's photo of a
different angle in Black Prince, I was able to come up with a pretty
credible pourpoint.

My most interesting discovery in making that one -- those deep scooped
armholes are actually necessary to fit a man with good upper-body
musculature. I derived the same cut by working on a muscular man's body,
and placing the seams where I needed to accommodate muscle stretching. 
They ended up falling almost exactly where Charles de Blois' had, though I
hadn't intended to replicate the deep armholes when I started -- I was
just going to make a close-fitting pourpoint, and found I had to keep
cutting in to give him free arm movement that wouldn't rip the back open.
This is easier to show in person, I think! 

It makes sense, then, that you see that "grande assiette" construction
almost exclusively on pictures of young noblemen, knights, fighter-types.
Not on old, fat, or skinny guys.

As for the sleeves themselves, I took one look at the bizarre combination
of trangles and curves in the Payne pattern, said "I can make no sense of
this," and closed the book. Instead, I draped the fabric over the man's
shoulders and arms, laid the bias where I needed stretch and grain where I
wanted structure, pinned the fabric to the open cut edge of the armhole,
dropped in a gore to fill the triangular space left at the fabric's edge
-- and when I took it off and looked at what I had, it was almost exactly
the same shape as the Charles de Blois sleeve. OK, so it did make sense
after all.

The lower sleeve construction I've used before on fitted dresses. It looks
odd, but you have to bear in mind that the deep point of that curved V
falls at the inside of the elbow, and the larger wings wrap to the
outside, over the elbow. I had derived this part of the construction on a
body, before I ever saw the Charles de Blois pattern, by fitting fabric
around an arm bent at 45 degrees. Why 45 degrees? Because that's the
neutral point. If you fit to a straight arm, you won't be able to bend it.
If you fit to a tightly bent arm, it wrinkles too much when you straighten
it. But I digress. 

Another tip on the poupoint: I built the lining on the man's body first,
then (while he was wearing it), I laid cotton padding over the lining to
smooth out and build up the chest. (The man was a little lopsided in
build, and he wanted me to even him out. Usually I hear that from women!)
I laid on a level of interlining over the padding, tacked the layers down,
then upholstered the outer fabric over all the padding. The finished piece
fit perfectly smoothly. If I had quilted the fabric while it was flat and
then pieced it together, I would have ended up with a lot of internal
wrinkles and lumps, I think. 

Also: Shape the underarm piece of the sleeve very close against the man's
underarm, so he can lift his arm up fairly high without hindrance.

I've forgotten the rest. It was three years ago, and I haven't made any
since. This particular one is probably still walking around the Milwaukee
area, though; I made it for a person to wear in the SCA. 

--Robin, who should be working and not reading h-cost

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 23:05:49 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 23:18:24 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Charles de Blois Pourpoint pattern
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>>
> In Naomi Tarrant's book "Development of Costume", she has a rough line
> drawing of the Charles de Blois Pourpoint pattern.  She references a >circa 1929? article where someone took a pattern.  Has anyone seen this 
>source?  Is it of reasonable quality to use for a pattern template?  
>I'm not expecting JArnold or JHunnniset contruction details, but I 
>would like some idea of where the ease is (if any), where and what >shaping materials to use and a picture of the back contruction.

Unfortunately, yes.  I've seen the work in question.  The line
drawings,
many of which appear to be assumptions based on statuary, visual
examination of existing garments, and so on.  This is what it seems
that the pattern for the Pourpoint is as well (although I'm not
changing my web page on it until I get someone who's better at reading
French than I am to verify my intrepretation of the text).
 
> I'd love to see something drafted from the original garment or >contemporary pourpoint.

Yeah, me too.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 23:11:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 00:29:18 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: H-COST: seamstress
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

For those of you who were looking for a seamstress, I have a friend - Linda
Chatfield - who is a costumer with many interesting applications.  She has
been curator and director of several historical museums, has a company that
does historical impressions (she has about six personas at this time), she
is an open hearth cook and a silversmith.  Every week I learn  more of this
extroidinary woman's talents.  She is not on line quite yet - she did just
get the second phone line in and has the computer plugged in.  Right now
she is between jobs, so this is the perfect time to snag her.  Her phone
number is 301-223-7406

Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 23:35:46 1999
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I am a big ol' fan of thrift stores (a quick check of my closet shows a
good portion of my clothing is from thrift stores) and I like them not
just for contemporary clothes, they are also a great source of period-ish
jewelry and accessories. I sometimes see jewelry which is perfect for my
Elizabethans and wonder who would have worn this stuff for 'real'?!

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 23:39:29 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 00:52:33 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: Elizabeth Cummins <henninlady@juno.com>

>I use a plain four-piece construction with gores. I've actually
>found a picture or two that show those seam lines, too -- front, back,
and
>two sides, nothing else. There's a bit of a trick to cutting the neck
and
>the armholes so you have flexibility in certain directions, and the
result
>is that the dress raises the breasts high up.  You also get incredible
>elastic-like tension on the neckline that holds it right against the
body,
>no gapping or "falling out."

I'd be interested in seeing a well made 4-piece cotehardie gown. Does
anyone have some pictures on a webpage? I've seen some other folks
attempt to do this dress and the bustline either comes out squashed, or
the front center seam does this unattractive S curve thing at the
bustline. Until I see one done well, I'm inclined to stick with my
controversial princess line seams (they give me the look I want without
the problems mentioned above). 

Just call me vain...
Elizabeth Cummins


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 22 23:50:02 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 23:34:11 -0400
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From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Early 16th cent German Corsetry-
In-Reply-To: <000d01bf0435$a9f13bc0$5bc47ad1@pavilion>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Actually an Italian Ren corset does give the right look.  The desired
>effect is the same, slightly flattened and stuffed uni-boob.

Where did you find evidence of an Italian Ren corset?  Please share!

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 00:12:59 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Amongst many , there is one book that I find very useful for hasty
>reference; with such a bad memeory its important to me.
>John Peacocks -Costume 1066-1990; It's just pictures with overwritten
>short notes ( but it is only UK in most parts) 130?pages at 8
>illustrations per page, broken down into the relevant periods It's
>simplistic but quick.

Peacock is an interesting overview but, keep in mind the fact that he gets
rather creative in inventing new styles and with seam placement.  I would
only recommend it as a *very* basic starting point.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 23:41:50 -0400
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From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Danielle's (not mine) underthings: Ever After
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>>And partly because I have never seen any evidence of an early
>> 16th century Italian woman wearing a bodice that wasn't attached to a
>skirt.
>
>As Michelle pointed out, Janet Arnold mentions,  that underneath the
>Eleanora of Toledo satin bodice is a red velvet bodice or 'bodies' that
>closed in the front with hooks and eyes.  Page 40, illus. #286.  (Thanks
>again Michelle)

True, the Eleanora bodice has been mentioned a couple of times but that is
obviously later than the styles we are refering to in this movie.  Would it
have helped if I had said late 15th/early 16th century Italian?  Danielle's
stuff actually reminds me of some of the stuff you will see in the
paintings of Girhlandio (sp?) and his contemporaries and he is actually
15th century if memory serves.

Again, this isn't my area of expertise.

>I would especially like to talk to the designer of the movie >'Artemisia'.  

You can definitely add my vote to that.  Now if only we could talk Disney
into mass releasing the video so it's not $120.

Cheers,
Danielle (who finds it strange to be talking about the underwear of someone
else with the name)

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 16th cent German-organ pipe pleats
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>
>
>Okay, considering my name, I think I have to make one of these Cranach
>gowns. *G*  So if I'm making these organ pipe pleats in the skirt, what's
>the math that goes with it?  How do I figure the waist circumference before
>pleating?  For example, if I'm making box pleats the rule of thumb is to
>have 3x your waist measurement.  What would it be for organ pipes?
>
>Tara

Its a circle cut on the skirt. First you need to decide how wide the top of
each pleat will be 1/2"-1 1/2" is the range (I personally prefer about
3/4") and how many pleats will fit on your bodice. (Or you can use the
pattern shown in History of Costume by Blanche Payne 1st Edition).  Anyway,
it starts with the width of the bodice or doublet you are attaching, then
add about 3/4" - 1" per pleat.

Julie Adams


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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: organ pipe pleats: a plea from the confused
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
>
>
>Hi Julie!
>
>Please help... I'm still confused... do you have a line drawing of this
>on your website? I'd really really love to see a picture!

No, there is one in the History of Costume book I mentioned. It looks like
a 1/2 circle representing 1/2 the skirt. The pleats are divided like narrow
pieces of a pie.  I put in three concentric circles below the waist on my
bases, those mark the lines where the tapes are tacked.

>1) When you say the pleat is pinched, do you mean you physically
>pinch it, or is that a tailoring term?

Yes, for each pleat, the skirt is folded on the pleat line, good sides
together. A seam is sewn from the waist to the hem. It pinches the fabric
into an arc on the outside.  (this must be done after lining, banding,
decorations, and finishing is completed).  The women's gowns are only sewn
like this for about 4-8".  Inside the skirt, stay tapes are tacked to keep
the pleats in place.

>
>but in this part, what do you mean by "there is no depth to it"? Does that
>mean that the pleat is like a knife pleat that lies flat against the
>waistband?

No, Its really hard to figure out a good wording. What I was meaning is
that in comparison to a cartridge pleat, where the edge of the skirt ends
up 1/2" thick as it abutts the body, there is no excess fabric in organ
pipe pleating, except for the little dip for each pinch. from a Sideways
perspective, looking down on the top of the skirt after pinching it should
look kind of like this:

(
(
(
(
(
(

But each curve has a little seam where they touch edges.

Julie Adams


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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>   I think I'm finally getting the right mental image, but to be
>sure--could you please
>give me a few references to pictures that include a gown with organ
>pleating, book/url, whatever...except for rare/expensive... :-)  Thank you
>very much, in advance!  Carol

Lucas Cranach by Friedlander.  There are some organ pipe pleats shown in
Vicellio too.  There are probably some on the web somewhere, but I'm not a
good art searcher.

I have some finished waffenrocks showing organ-pipe pleating worn by my
husband at my website (none of the women's are organ-pipe pleated and some
were cartridge pleated before I realized that wasn't really right.) Look
under costumes or pictures.

http://www.znet.com/~savaskan/germans/

Julie Adams


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 01:23:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
In-Reply-To: <19990923.005331.12966.1.henninlady@juno.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 23 Sep 1999, Elizabeth Cummins wrote:

> I'd be interested in seeing a well made 4-piece cotehardie gown. Does
> anyone have some pictures on a webpage? I've seen some other folks
> attempt to do this dress and the bustline either comes out squashed, or
> the front center seam does this unattractive S curve thing at the
> bustline. Until I see one done well, I'm inclined to stick with my
> controversial princess line seams (they give me the look I want without
> the problems mentioned above). 

Are these really "problems," or is it that the "look" you want is one
that is considered attractive in the modern view? How are you defining
"one done well"? 

I can't be exactly sure what you're describing, of course, but fitted
dresses from 1350-80 often had a "squashed" bustline. (Look at the
Guillaume de Machaut manuscripts; there are a couple reprinted in Avril's
book on Manuscript Painting at the Court of France.  Also look at the
brass of Joan de la Pole and other brasses/effigies of this period --
Margaret Scott's Visual History of Costume has a good collection of
these.) Later, as necklines dropped and bustlines rose, an "S" curve along
the front center seam was quite typical; you can see these in manuscripts
too numerous to count, including the Tres Riches Heures. There are other
shapes too -- the breasts do a slow creep skyward over the course of 50
years, and the silhouette goes through several distinct shifts. I've
achieved this whole range with a succession of minor fitting changes on a
basic 4-piece cut.

I figured that I had the c. 1400-1415 construction down pat when I found
that it put the wearer automatically into a "Gothic slouch" -- that
"pregnant" posture you see in the Limbourg Brothers manuscripts and others
of that time. This may seem ugly in theory to modern viewers, but it's
actually quite attractive in life, even as you're shaking your head
wondering why. I remember dressing one woman this way, and she was very
upset when she looked in the mirror -- "I look pregnant!" she cried. Her
boyfriend came into the room, took one look at her new curves, and said,
"I want to make you pregnant!"

>From what I've seen, any woman who owns a waist can look good in this
style -- but she might not look good in the way she was expecting to. Many
people assume that the attraction of that style must be because of the
high, prominent mounds of breast. But I watch where the men's eyes go.
They're almost always drawn to the hips, and to the curve at the small of
the back -- not exactly the places we think of showing off today.

On the other hand, it is possible to have an inappropriately "squashed" 
bust (if I cut my armholes wrong, I sometimes get a bad horizontal pulling
right across the middle of the breasts). And the proper S-curve should
have the bosom lifted, not dropping. So you may indeed have been seeing a
bad fit. 

--Robin


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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 23 Sep 1999, Robin Netherton wrote:

> 
> I figured that I had the c. 1400-1415 construction down pat when I found
> that it put the wearer automatically into a "Gothic slouch" -- that
> "pregnant" posture you see in the Limbourg Brothers manuscripts and others
> of that time. This may seem ugly in theory to modern viewers, but it's
Houppelandes and the appropriate headdresses do this too, largely on
account of the weight I've always thought. 
> actually quite attractive in life, even as you're shaking your head
> wondering why. I remember dressing one woman this way, and she was very
> upset when she looked in the mirror -- "I look pregnant!" she cried. Her
> boyfriend came into the room, took one look at her new curves, and said,
> "I want to make you pregnant!"
> 
Hmmmm.....I don't know that I'd take that as a compliment :-P
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re. Recycling
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I've missed a number of digests due to a problem with our university's e-mail server, including my own post which started the thread on recycling. Actually my comment "and we think recycling is new" was meant to be tongue-in-cheek, but I was referring to the fact that, in the UK at least, bins for recycling glass, paper, plastic etc.  have appeared in every supermarket car park in recent years. As for clothes, different charities regularly put plastic bags through my front door with requests to leave anything saleable ouitside for collection on a certain day. And, yes, I do sometimes buy clothes from their shops myself. 

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 05:20:59 1999
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From: Viv Watkins <ht40@dial.pipex.com>
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-Poster: Viv Watkins <ht40@dial.pipex.com>

Cynthia Virtue wrote
"I expect it depends how you were raised.  I had a friend from England
visit, and I suggested going to a used bookstore after dinner, and she
was *very* dubious until I reassured her that it was quite reputable,
etc.  She had a blast."

This doesn't fit with my experience of how things are in England.  We 
have lots of "thrift" shops - we call them Charity shops,  because they 
are run by local and national charities to make money for their causes.  
The small market town where I live has eight different shops all with 
well laid out and organised stock.  Some also sell their own gift items - 
one has great cheap hat boxes!

I love Charity shops.  All my best clothes, cheap (often out of print) 
books, curtains and lengths of fabric, household bits and pieces, come 
from them - all for a few pence or pounds.  I couldn't afford the qaulity 
clothes that are recycled through these shops if i bought them new.

We also have Dress Agencies which will sell second-hand clothes for a 
small commission - they usually only take the "best" makes and only 
classic or current styles.  You can get designer clothes for a fifth of 
new prices.

Do you have Jumble or Rummage Sales in the US?  These are run by small 
local groups, Scouts, playgroups, etc, to raise funds.  Our Scouts 
collect from house to house (supervised of course) and on the Saturday 
all the Volunteers (usually Mums) sort the donations into heaps on the 
Scout Hut tables, charge 20p entrance and sell most of it to an 
enthusiastic horde for pence!  We usually make a hundred or so pounds - 
enough for a new tent! Those who help sort things out in the morning get 
first pick!  It is the perk you get for taking on the crowds in the 
afternoon - some of our regular customers have black belts in Jumbling!

This is on topic (honest) because I have collected some wonderful antique 
and retro clothes from these sources.

As for second-hand book shops - friends have been known to refuse to shop 
with me!  It's an addiction and one day I will be cured - but not soon!

Best wishes.    Viv.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 06:59:49 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s7e9f79a.040@csv6.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re. Recycling
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

in the UK at least, bins for recycling glass, paper, plastic etc.  have
appeared in every supermarket car park in recent years.

Sorry for getting off topic but I am curious...
I am trying to find out how other countries recyle?  Our government (state
or local???) hired a company that comes to our home on garbage day and picks
up the recyled glass and paper that is in a separate bin.  There is not a
charge for this service.  Is this type of service available in other
countries?

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Perhaps you have not been talking to many people
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 13:27:21 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
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References: <199909222214.QAA24911@net.indra.com> <37E9A7C2.EE971F17@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>



>
> -Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
> <"Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>>
> >...gown is the only authentic cut for a cotehardie.  I'm assuming they
> >are using this cut because although the garment it quite tight and very
> >fitted, it does have the same number of seams and gores.
>
> "The garment is quite tight and fitted"... Um, really?
>
the garment that I'm talking about, the one that is so common in my area, is
very tightly fitted.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 07:39:57 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909221536.RAA15108@worldonline.nl>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 13:52:39 +0100
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

 I am sorry I was so confused by your attempts to disgree that I used a
book, or disagreed with something non existent that you read into my post,
or whatever it was,that I missed the following/

> > the foreword contains my most favourite of
> > quotes:_---
> > "Costume is not a triviality; it is the visible raiment of the soul"
 > -Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
> I'm sorry, but I find this a bit over the top... No offence; it's Lavers
> quote anyway. It reminds me of a certain kind of bogus art-hysterians
> (note: I wrote 'bogus', I don't include the real ones!), who don't leave a
> stone unturned to promote and mysticise their (in my view; boy, will I get
> flamed over this) rather useless occupation....
>
> Henk

I cant see how anybody can possibly get involved in history and, or costume
without having some kind of commitment of the soul.
Without being passionate its really impossible to truly understand other
people who are passionate. Not having this insight makes it so easy to
trivialise the works and interests of so many others, to denigrate their
efforts and minimalise their often long frustrating struggles. To dismiss
all of these smacks of attempts , reminding me of so many people that I ,
all too often, meet;-, to be seen as a solitary upholder of all that is
undeniably correct. Deity is the singular intention and a very lonely place.
Anyone who sees their occupation useless , or who can even tolerate such
thought processes, should really take a hold of themselves and attempt to
discover an area where they do have some passion and where their input is
both welcome and enjoyable, above all the latter. To remain and trample down
the willing efforts of others, who wish to give rather than take, and to
maintian the passiona and fun of the whole is , to me , I am afraid ;
tantamount to a form of fascism. But perhaps on a more down to earth level
we can retake the element of fun in our own activities by looking such
manifesatations as just being a waste of space.
Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 07:43:01 1999
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From: Marie Schulte <mschulte@post.its.mcw.edu>
Message-Id: <199909231248.HAA01771@post.its.mcw.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Re: UNshrinking
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 07:48:48 -0500 (CDT)
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-Poster: Marie Schulte <mschulte@post.its.mcw.edu>

Hi All!

Is there a way to *un*shrink a 100% cotton knit t-shirt?  It was washed in
cold, but someone decided to do me a "favour" and dry it in a dryer set on
high.  The arm holes are smaller, as is the width and length.  
(sigh)
my fault for not checking the washer more thoroughly.

thanks
Marie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 07:46:29 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: new book 
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<I was wondering if anyone has seen the new book, called Costume Close-up, by
Linda Baumgarten, Florine Carr, and John Watson. >>

It's still not out.


Deborah


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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9909201556160.18245-100000@kirk.dnaco.net><37E6E37A.EC875C5A@inreach.com> <3.0.1.32.19990922233411.00a0d8e0@mail.interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Early 16th cent German Corsetry-
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:41:43 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>




> >Actually an Italian Ren corset does give the right look.  The desired
> >effect is the same, slightly flattened and stuffed uni-boob.
>
> Where did you find evidence of an Italian Ren corset?  Please share!
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle

I have no evidence for an Italian corset.  I just messed around until I
found something that gave me the right look.  I took a mundane tanktop
pattern, shortened it to 1-2 inches longer than my bodice pattern, made it
really tight and used the heaviest canvas I could find and laced it up the
back.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 08:23:04 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:35:43 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Book
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Hi, Susan,

Linda's upcoming book is wonderful but the print date is still uncertain. 
When I asked Linda about it in May, she said that it had to be out by the end 
of 1999. The Williamsburg Institute (www.history.org) has planned a wonderful 
program on January 9 - 11, 2000 to coincide with book and new exhibit.

Instead of bugging Linda about publication date, call the publisher or check 
the listing on Amazon.com or Barnes & Noble.com as they pick up the details 
immediately upon receiving the information from publisher/distributor. As of 
Tuesday, Amazon still is not listing a price. 

The book is worth the wait -- I've seen one chapter and a selection of the 
garments.

Her follow on book is a catalog of the collection. The current issue of 
_Dress_ Journal of The Costume Society of America 
(www.costumesocietyamerica.com/dress) has her article on recycled clothing. 
Everyone should have this article in their library.

Sally

Calendar 2000:Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
 
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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 08:55:43 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 08:59:34 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Book
In-Reply-To: <10e265ea.251b86af@aol.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

The correct url is:

http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/dress.htm

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 23 Sep 1999 SAQUEEN@aol.com wrote:

> Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:35:43 EDT
> From: SAQUEEN@aol.com
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: New Book
> 
> 
> -Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com
> 
> Hi, Susan,
> 
> Linda's upcoming book is wonderful but the print date is still uncertain. 
> When I asked Linda about it in May, she said that it had to be out by the end 
> of 1999. The Williamsburg Institute (www.history.org) has planned a wonderful 
> program on January 9 - 11, 2000 to coincide with book and new exhibit.
> 
> Instead of bugging Linda about publication date, call the publisher or check 
> the listing on Amazon.com or Barnes & Noble.com as they pick up the details 
> immediately upon receiving the information from publisher/distributor. As of 
> Tuesday, Amazon still is not listing a price. 
> 
> The book is worth the wait -- I've seen one chapter and a selection of the 
> garments.
> 
> Her follow on book is a catalog of the collection. The current issue of 
> _Dress_ Journal of The Costume Society of America 
> (www.costumesocietyamerica.com/dress) has her article on recycled clothing. 
> Everyone should have this article in their library.
> 
> Sally
> 
> Calendar 2000:Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
> http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
>  
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 09:04:05 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:19:45 -0400
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Subject: H-COST: Four-panel dress
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

I'm intrigued by the discussion of the basic four-panel dress, and would
like to experiment with it. Is there a basic layout diagram anywhere on the
Web? in a book? I'd prefer a Web source since my costuming library is sadly
scanty, but maybe this is a good excuse to expand it....

Thanks!

-Amanda


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 09:25:35 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.9909230859220.9630-100000@eris.io.com>
Subject: H-COST: CSA Dress
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:33:22 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

The lastest issue of Costume Society of America's Dress is not scheduled to
be added to the website until mid-October.  If you would like to obtain a
copy of the journal, call 1-800-CSA-9447 or email
national.office@costumesocietyamerica.com

The following is a list of the articles in this issue:

Volume 25, 1998

Michelle Boardman, Shoulder to Shoulder:  Women's Patriotic Scarves of World
War II

Kimberly Chrisman, "The Upholstery of Life":  Clothing and Character in the
Novels of Edith Wharton.

Sandra Stansbery Buckland and Gwendolyn S. O'Neal, "We Publish Fashions
Because They are News":  The New York Times 1940 through 1945.

Linda Baumgarten, Altered Historical Clothing.

Elizabeth Ann Coleman, Jessie Franklin Turner:  A Flight Path for Early
Modern American Fashion.

Rob Schorman, What to Wear and How to Make It:  The Meaning of Clothes in
Late Nineteenth-Century America

Penny Ladnier
Webmaster, Costume Society of America



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 09:34:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:42:01 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Book
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Thanks for the correction. Was up too late at The Shakespeare Theatre's 
production of King Lear. Costumes set in WWI made for great interpretation. 
Loved the hairnets and clippies. Good job, Carol! Tell us more about the 
costumes for this production.

Sally

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 09:48:36 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:58:33 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: UNshrinking
In-Reply-To: <199909231248.HAA01771@post.its.mcw.edu>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

I am not sure how to unshrink something but I did notice that a dress of
mine that had shrunk in the dryer when taken to the dry cleaner came back
stretched back out. I did not ask them to do it. It was a 1950's dress
that belonged to my mother. I will have to look at the content when I get
home but I am pretty sure it is crepe.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 23 Sep 1999, Marie Schulte wrote:

> Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 07:48:48 -0500 (CDT)
> From: Marie Schulte <mschulte@post.its.mcw.edu>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Re: UNshrinking
> 
> 
> -Poster: Marie Schulte <mschulte@post.its.mcw.edu>
> 
> Hi All!
> 
> Is there a way to *un*shrink a 100% cotton knit t-shirt?  It was washed in
> cold, but someone decided to do me a "favour" and dry it in a dryer set on
> high.  The arm holes are smaller, as is the width and length.  
> (sigh)
> my fault for not checking the washer more thoroughly.
> 
> thanks
> Marie
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 09:53:17 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:01:26 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Marie Schulte wrote:
> 
> Is there a way to *un*shrink a 100% cotton knit t-shirt?  It was
> washed in cold, but someone decided to do me a "favour" and dry it in
> a dryer set on high.  The arm holes are smaller, as is the width and
> length. (sigh) my fault for not checking the washer more thoroughly.

While I haven't tried it myself, I understand that washing it again in
shampoo will relax the fibers and allow you to stretch it back out to
the normal size.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 10:08:24 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:27:29 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Perhaps you have not been talking to many people
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>>
>> <"Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>>
>> >...gown is the only authentic cut for a cotehardie.  I'm assuming they
>> >are using this cut because although the garment it quite tight and very
>> >fitted, it does have the same number of seams and gores.
>>
>> "The garment is quite tight and fitted"... Um, really?
>>
>the garment that I'm talking about, the one that is so common in my area, is
>very tightly fitted.

I've seen modern interpretations of the garment that were made to be fitted.
I was, as I assumed you were, based on what you said, talking about the 
actual item as dug from the ground -- not the modern fantasy
misinterpretation.
My mistake.  So sorry and all that.

Marc
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 11:42:55 -0400
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

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Jessica Clark wrote: " Where do people get their definitions from?  Is
there a costuming text out there somewhere that lists the terms, defines
them, and states its rationale and the roots of the words?"

I think the problem comes from our anachronistic attempt at English
translation. I learnt the SCA terms "cotehardie" and then "kirtle" very
early on and applied them myself. It works as long as both people in the
conversation have the same point of reference. For example, "cotehardie"
to me means a dress of roughly 14th century, long sleeved, form fitting
around the bust, no waist seam, flared out at the bottom, buttons up the
front and sleeves, etc. Very general I know, but that's the image in my
head.

"Kirtle" conjures up a Mary Magdalene back view or one of the Tres
Riches Heures women working in the fields. Dress as an undergown: waist
seam, back seam usually short sleeves to which oversleeves were pinned,
laced up the front, pleated in the back skirt, flared but not excessive,
bodice providing support by being closely fitted, etc.

The point being that the kirtles I am picturing were almost certainly
not called "kirtles" by their contemporaries. After all, the pictures
are depicting French/Burgundian/Whatever Region at that time, and they
did not use the English word "kirtle" I am sure! They probably used a
generic word like "underdress" (which maybe meant kirtle in English), or
perhaps "cote", etc. The word "underdress/cote" in French did not go out
of fashion come the end of that garment, but just evolved (with the
fashion) into whatever underdress you wore later on. They kept wearing
undergarments (and not just chemises, camisa, shirts, whatever) through
the period, and why not use a general term?

I have not done tons of translation work, but when I look for Italian
terms in period documents, I frequently see generic terms from which one
derives meaning from the context, not the word itself. Very troublesome
for us research people who want one word to apply exactly to one item at
a fixed point in time! My sense is that very specific fashion items got
a new name that may have stopped evolving as the fashion disappeared.
But for basic garments that continued developing, the old words
continued to be used.

That's a very long-winded commentary I am sure. I would be interested in
knowing whether anyone has compiled a decent glossary of terms. There
are a couple of good ones in the 1400-1500 History of Dress series
(Italian abd Gothic) by Jcqueline Herald and (can't remember her name
for Gothic). Both are excellent references! Unfortunately, I do not have
a handy copy of teh Gothic series, shich I think defines these terms
also.

I also have a book by Stephanie Davies called "Costume Language - a
Dictionary of Dress Terms". I find it a bit general, but most terms seem
to be represented. Here's what it says:

Cote, Cotte: O.E. OF. Masc: Outer garment. Fem: Long dress or petticoat,
12th-15th centuries.

Cote-hardie: Masc: Tunic of varying length between waist and knee. Fem:
Full lenth waisted garment worn over kirtle (ack!). Both close fitting
and with sleeves. 1350. Until mid-15th century, flap from elbow was
lengthened into a band called a tippet, or Fr. coudicre. SOmetimes with
a buttoned front fastening and often 'dagged' for decoration.

Kirtle: O.E. cyrtel; O.N. kyrtill; L. curtus-short. 1) Masc: Knee-length
tunic, 9-14th cent. 2) Fem: Sleeved long garment, 10-15th century, 3)
Fem: For about 100 years from 1545 - a separate skirt, the name giving
way to 'petticoat'. 4) Fem: a short jacket, early 18th cnetury. 5) A
protective outer skirt for horseback riding, early 19th century.

I cannot comment on the later period accuracy, but the
medieval/rennaisance definitiions seem okay. I haven't ventured into a
cotehardie in a long time, but am I under the wrong impression that they
did NOT have a waist seam? Now I confused myself!

Regards,

Liz Jones

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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:20:29 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
Priority: normal
References: <19990923.005331.12966.1.henninlady@juno.com>
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

> On the other hand, it is possible to have an inappropriately "squashed" 
> bust (if I cut my armholes wrong, I sometimes get a bad horizontal pulling
> right across the middle of the breasts). And the proper S-curve should
> have the bosom lifted, not dropping.

Robin:
Could you give more detail about the "right" and "wrong" ways to 
cut the armhole? What specifically caused the horizontal pulling? 
Armhole cut too deep, not deep enough?

On the S-curve, does this mean the front seam from the waist up is 
not straight? Would the center front have a curve at the bust line?

Thanks!


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 09:41:46 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> I use a plain four-piece construction with gores. I've actually
> found a picture or two that show those seam lines, too -- front, back, and
> two sides, nothing else. There's a bit of a trick to cutting the neck and
> the armholes so you have flexibility in certain directions, and the result
> is that the dress raises the breasts high up.

Can you elaborate on this cut?

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 23 Sep 1999, Linda Yordy wrote:

> > On the other hand, it is possible to have an inappropriately "squashed" 
> > bust (if I cut my armholes wrong, I sometimes get a bad horizontal pulling
> > right across the middle of the breasts). And the proper S-curve should
> > have the bosom lifted, not dropping.
> 
> Robin:
> Could you give more detail about the "right" and "wrong" ways to 
> cut the armhole? What specifically caused the horizontal pulling? 
> Armhole cut too deep, not deep enough?

Oh, yeesh. This is why I have never been able to write an article about
this. It's better explained with fabric and a person in front of you! I've
made more than 100 of these dresses and I'm still learning tricks of fit,
as different bodies pose different problems.

But a few random thoughts:

First: A lot of my fitting problems disappeared when (1) I lined
everything fully, fitting the lining first and then using it as a guide to
cutting the main fabric, and (2) I stopped using cotton and moved strictly
to linen, wool, or silk, which are more flexible. It should go without
saying that you only use woven cloth of natural fibers, and that you fit
over a properly made chemise (NOT a tent with raglan sleeves gathered into
a huge lumpy drawstring at the neckline).

Other tips: Fit from the waist (which is relatively unchangeable) going
both up and down from there. Cut your seam allowances huge at shoulders
and armholes, because everything will change in those areas after you
start pulling the fabric. Fit in increments, a little tighter each time,
and allow the dress to warm up a few minutes each time the person puts it
on; the fibers will relax with body heat and moisture. Cut your neckline
in a U-shape or a gentle scoop and pull it open into a wider scoop, and
pull the excess fabric diagonally across the bust. The exact steepness of
the U and the form of the curve you cut varies immensely depending on
fullness and location of the bust, and also on the inherent stretch of the
fabric; I'm afraid only experience will help you on judging that. (And
this is why I CANNOT give anyone a pattern.) 

The horizontal pulling across the bust sometimes means that there is too
much tension focused on a grain line going across the bust to the bottom
of the armhole. Getting a bit more of an angle on the upper part of the
front pieces can help; sometimes I'd find I'd pull the front pieces
sideways under the arms and chop off a vertical wedge of fabric (this
would be a triangle, an
inch or two wide at the armhole edge and three or four inches in depth
along the side seam) and resew the side seam. That would change the angle
of the grain slightly and add a little flexibility for the lower swell of
the bust. 

The crease might mean your armhole was cut too deep. It should be right
against the body, all the way around the arm, at the point at which your
arm bends. Clip your seam allowances so you can see how the fabric will
bend right at the natural seamline of the arm. In fact, I prefer to just
cut off the seam allowance on the lining and fit with the raw edge, which
I later bind with a strip of silk. I do leave seam allowance on the main
fabric, though, to attach the sleeve.

Or the crease could simply mean there was not enough fitting through the
ribcage, which allowed the bust to drop a bit. If so, you need more
tension on the bottom of the bust, to push the interior of the breast
skyward in a smooth line. You should have the person lie down while lacing
up and fitting, so you're not fighting gravity. Then pull your side seams
in to fit the ribcage. The breasts have nowhere to drop. 

I found much less problem with that horizontal crease once I stopped using
cotton, though.

> On the S-curve, does this mean the front seam from the waist up is 
> not straight? Would the center front have a curve at the bust line?

Rarely. I sometimes work in a slight swell or a funnel shape to
accommodate a large-busted woman, particularly in the earlier fitted
styles c. 1350-80 (the ones like those in the Machaut manuscripts, with
the higher neck and the squashed "monobosom").  But the low-necked,
high-bosomed, Gothic slouch has most of the fitting on the side and back
seams. For this style, it's crucial to cut the neckline low -- the thing
that makes that bust push up so high is that there's a lot of pressure
from the bottom and very little on the top. Don't cut the neckline lower
than the nipples, of course, and make sure the breasts are completely
pushed up when you cut -- if they're already at their maximum height, they
can't then "fall out" of your neckline.  Again, lying down helps in
getting the internal mass of the breasts in the right place. 

But even though the front seam (or laced-up opening) itself is usually
straight or close to straight, by the time you're done fitting, the
profile of the breast itself is an S (including the upper part of the
bosom, above the neckline). But not a saggy one! If the breasts are
sagging -- if you have a definite crease under the bosom where they're
dropping over the ribcage -- that means you aren't pushing against the
bottom enough, and pulling the bulk up high enough. About the last thing I
do when I'm done fitting the body is to give the shoulders a good pull up
and out. I usually end up chopping off an inch or two from the shoulder
"strap," where the front and back pieces meet.  This shoulder area is the
part that varies most from one dress/person to another, so I can't give
you any guidance on exactly the angle and size it will have -- you can
tell that only on the person, and only when the fitting is finished.

Oh, dear, I'm afraid this has just gotten more confusing. The only way
I've ever been able to teach this dress has been in person. And I'm sure
that some people who make the same sort of four-piece dress have different
ways of accomplishing it. But it IS possible -- anyone who's seen my
models at my lectures, or any of the dresses I've made that are still
being worn by various people, will tell you that it does work on different
figure types. A few years ago at Kalamazoo, I had three models in this
dress -- one thin, one tall and curvy, one short and plump. The dresses
were in linen, silk, and wool, respectively. They all worked, and they
were all clearly the same construction. Sorry I didn't get photos!

--Robin


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 23 Sep 1999, Merouda the True of Beaumaris wrote:

> > I use a plain four-piece construction with gores. I've actually
> > found a picture or two that show those seam lines, too -- front, back, and
> > two sides, nothing else. There's a bit of a trick to cutting the neck and
> > the armholes so you have flexibility in certain directions, and the result
> > is that the dress raises the breasts high up.
> 
> Can you elaborate on this cut?

Roughly, it's four pieces that look something like this:

        __
       |  |
      /   |
 __ /      \_
|           |
|          /
|         /
|        |
|         \
|           \    
|             \    
|               \    
|                 \    
|                   \    
|                     \
|                       \
|                         \
|                           \
|                             \
|                               \
|                                 \
|                                   \
|                             _   -    
____________________    - 

...plus gores at the side seams (top point goes between waist and hip,
where the curve of the hip requires it), plus sometimes gores in the front
and/or back seams, depending on the body shape of the wearer. There are
many ways to do sleeves; currently I like a two-piece cut with a seam just
above the elbow.

The exact shape of the pieces varies tremendously according to the person
and the fabric. I cut only a rough shape to start, then drape and fit on
the body before doing more cutting. I fit the lining first, wrong side out
of course, then use it as a guide to cutting the main fabric; I put that
all together and then check the fit on the body. When fitting, sew the
back seam first to match the curve of the spine so it lies perfectly flat.
Rough in your other seams, then start fitting from the waist and work up
and down from there. See my other post of today for more musings. Much
more than that would take me about eight hours to explain properly, in
person. 

--Robin

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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 11:57:24 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

Thanks Robin!

I followed all but one point:

> Getting a bit more of an angle on the upper part of the
> front pieces can help

Do you mean to cut the side seam at more of an angle out and up 
from the waist? (please excuse the drawing).

       |  |
------/    |

          /  more angle here?
        /
      / 
-----/

Thanks again!


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 11:06:18 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> > > I use a plain four-piece construction with gores. I've actually
> > > found a picture or two that show those seam lines, too -- front, back, and
> > > two sides, nothing else. There's a bit of a trick to cutting the neck and
> > > the armholes so you have flexibility in certain directions, and the result
> > > is that the dress raises the breasts high up.
> >
> > Can you elaborate on this cut?

I realize now that I was vague.  I was wishing for a commentary on what your
tricks are for the neck and armholes.  But I received your other post and this was
cleared up.  :)  Otherwise, you do exactly what I do.  But that neckline can be a
bear.  I finally got my armholes perfect for me but that was a challenge in the
beginning as well.

Thanks!
Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 12:21:51 -0700
Subject: H-COST: raglan sleeves
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

I've been staring at a painting called "The Church Militant and 
Triumphant (detail) by Andrea Da Firenze painted around 1365-68. 
You can find this by going to:

http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.html

Then do a search for ANDREA DA FIRENZE (he's under A not F).

Anyway, the two women in off-while on the right have squareneck 
cotehardies on. The way the neckline and sleeves lay, the sleeves 
look as if they could be raglan.

I know I've seen a painting of raglan sleeves somewhere (can't find 
it now that I need it), but I think that was probably a century or so 
later.

Does anyone know when raglans first came into use? I don't 
suppose I could make this cotehardie with raglans? (I know, don't 
hold my breath ;-)

Thanks,


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 13:59:06 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats...??
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


If you look at paintings by Lucas Cranach, the skirts on the womens' gowns
look like rolled pleats.  I don't know for a fact that they are, but
rolled pleats produce an effect like these skirts--long, tubular pleats,
which hang straight from the waist to the hem. I usually make my pleats 1
inch wide at the top.  

I'll be putting a web page up with diagrams of different kinds of pleats
soon.  Hopefully pictures will help.



Drea

 On Wed, 22 Sep 1999, Liz
/cozit wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
> 
> 
> Ok...I've been following the pleating threads, and when I first hit the
> rolled pleats thread, I *thought* I knew what they'd look like when
> finished.  I've come to the conclusion that I definitely don't (at least
> not if they're wider than about 1/4 inch).  I just can't picture the end
> result and how the material would fall.
> 
> Does anyone out there have a URL for a picture of a garment that used
> rolled pleats?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Elisabeth
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 14:40:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
In-Reply-To: <199909231759.LAA13080@email.boisestate.edu>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 23 Sep 1999, Linda Yordy wrote:

> I followed all but one point:
> 
> > Getting a bit more of an angle on the upper part of the
> > front pieces can help
> 
> Do you mean to cut the side seam at more of an angle out and up 
> from the waist?

No, I mean that in the course of your fitting, you may need to "tilt" or
distort the front pieces as they lie on the body, so that you don't end up
with a single grain line slicing directly across the breast to the
underarm. The fabric won't stretch much on the grain line, so if the grain
falls exactly straight across from center to underarm, you can see a
pulling or indentation in the fabric along that line. This crease
typically aligns with the top end of the side seam, where it enters the
armhole; above that, the armhole provides some "release" from the
crosswise tension. The best solution (if anatomy allows) is actually to
try to push the bulk of the breast higher than that point, so you can use
the pressure to good advantage in pressing the underside of the breast
rather than slicing into the front of it. 

The issue of stretch on the grain is one reason I found the fit improved
when I stopped using woven cottons. Cottons usually are less flexible than
wool or linen, which have a little "give" even on the grain, and loads
more on the bias.  Wool can be very bouncy, and is wonderful for this
dress. I've found that linen is a dream to fit, but hell to cut and sew --
every time I lay a cut piece of linen out flat, it crawls; it's never the
same shape twice. But that same property enables it to mold to the figure.
Silk is less flexible than wool or linen, but very strong. The weave makes
a difference, too -- I look at stretch and flexibility when I shop. 

Of course these very attributes can cause problems in certain other
periods, when you *don't* want the fabric to stretch, mutate, or mold. 
(Please, no jokes about moldy fabric -- I've had my share...) 

--Robin

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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

   Does anyone have the Jane Ashelford "Visual History...16th Cent."
on hand?  I need the biblio. information for this, and stupidly forgot
to write it down....

  Thanks!
   Liadain



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-Poster: "Allene Brown" <allene@cyberhighway.net>


Well, all I know is, when a new person to the SCA comes over to my house to
talk about garb, I whip out the Peacock.  Mine is marked for our time period
and I let the person go though it until they say "There! That is what I had
in mind!"  Then we move on to the more reputable sources for the patterns
and construction techniques.  Peacock, for me, is absolutely indispensible
for this reason.

Kathlene

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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909231943.NAA05708@net.indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ashelford....
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 13:55:26 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

   Wow, sent this last night....<G>
  Pardon the bandwidth, this has been asked and answered....

  Liadain
> 
> -Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
> 
>    Does anyone have the Jane Ashelford "Visual History...16th Cent."
> on hand?  I need the biblio. information for this, and stupidly forgot
> to write it down....
> 
>   Thanks!
>    Liadain
> 
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 14:39:33 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/23/1999 12:45:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
allene@cyberhighway.net writes:

<< Mine is marked for our time period
 and I let the person go though it until they say "There! That is what I had
 in mind!"  Then we move on to the more reputable sources for the patterns
 and construction techniques.  Peacock, for me, is absolutely indispensible
 for this reason. >>

I sort of agree.  It's a nice overview, and I can't see any details well 
enough to construct from it anyway.  As a lowly "theatrical" costumer who 
isn't too overly concerned about authenticity (at least usually not more than 
correct lines, fabrics and general look) I don't get into anything as 
explicit as the perfect seam construction.

I figure the more pics, the better to convey to a director with no sense at 
all of (fill in the period)  how folks looked back then.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Be not afraid of greatness; some are born great,
some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust 
upon them."
Twelfth-Night, II, v - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:   http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:58:13 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ashelford....
In-Reply-To: <199909231943.NAA05708@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

>-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
>
>   Does anyone have the Jane Ashelford "Visual History...16th Cent."
>on hand?  I need the biblio. information for this, and stupidly forgot
>to write it down....
>
>  Thanks!
>   Liadain
>
I made my hubby move my costume books in by the computer for just such
an eventuality!

A Visual History of Costume: The Sixteenth Century
By Jane Ashelford
Published by B T Batsford Ltd, 1983
ISBN: 0713468289

This is the paperback ISBN - the paperback edition was first published
1993.

Jean
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 14:48:44 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 15:57:43 -0400
From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
CC: vintage@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Regency Dress Ball in Virginia - Come one, come all!
References: <19990918194709.18254.rocketmail@web803.mail.yahoo.com>
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

Last year a bunch of us here in Northern Virginia put on our first
Regency dress ball.  It was a lot of fun, and we hope this year's will
be even better.  We'd love to have a good turnout of costumed
participants.  Here is your opportunity to show off your Regency
creations!

The ball will be held in Bluemont, Virginia (between Winchester and
Leesburg on Route 7), on Saturday, November 6, from 7:30 to 10:30 p.m.
We'll have live musicians, and our callers will be the elegant Mr. and
Mrs. Joseph Ruckman, who specialize in Revolutionary and Regency
dancing.  There will be plenty of refreshments and lots of good
company.  If you can get together a group of 10 or more, the price will
be $15/person.  Cost at the door is $18.  For more information on
tickets or for directions, write to Tenby Ihde at dyfed@aol.com

Hope to see you there!

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 14:50:40 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <EjZlHCAVZo63IwOX@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ashelford....
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 14:05:45 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  Thanks!  Does anyone know if this is still in print?  I'd love to
not have to ILL it any more.....

  Liadain
> 
> -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
> 
> >-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
> >
> >   Does anyone have the Jane Ashelford "Visual History...16th Cent."
> >on hand?  I need the biblio. information for this, and stupidly forgot
> >to write it down....
> >
> >  Thanks!
> >   Liadain
> >
> I made my hubby move my costume books in by the computer for just such
> an eventuality!
> 
> A Visual History of Costume: The Sixteenth Century
> By Jane Ashelford
> Published by B T Batsford Ltd, 1983
> ISBN: 0713468289
> 
> This is the paperback ISBN - the paperback edition was first published
> 1993.
> 
> Jean
> -- 
> Jean Waddie
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ashelford....
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


I believe Poison Pen Press (http://www.poisonpenpress.com) has it.

Drea

On Thu, 23 Sep 1999, Frank A Thallas Jr wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
> 
>   Thanks!  Does anyone know if this is still in print?  I'd love to
> not have to ILL it any more.....
> 
>   Liadain
> > 
> > -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
> > 
> > >-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
> > >
> > >   Does anyone have the Jane Ashelford "Visual History...16th Cent."
> > >on hand?  I need the biblio. information for this, and stupidly forgot
> > >to write it down....
> > >
> > >  Thanks!
> > >   Liadain
> > >
> > I made my hubby move my costume books in by the computer for just such
> > an eventuality!
> > 
> > A Visual History of Costume: The Sixteenth Century
> > By Jane Ashelford
> > Published by B T Batsford Ltd, 1983
> > ISBN: 0713468289
> > 
> > This is the paperback ISBN - the paperback edition was first published
> > 1993.
> > 
> > Jean
> > -- 
> > Jean Waddie
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 15:25:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 13:50:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Questions.....OT
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


I have a couple of question... first is more of a
business one for all of you who actually have
"Costuming Businesses"... at what point is a business
big enough to have to register and all that?  You guys
are the only ones I know to ask, so sorry for the OT. 
My baby brother is designing my web site for me right
now and I am taking some pictures so I can get this
thing going...

The other question is... er... I don't rightly
remember... *sigh*  Long day... 

Oh well, I'll remember later and bug ya'll again. 
Please feel free to respond off list to my question at
sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com.  Thanks!

Sarah

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 15:50:53 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject:  H-COST: French womans 1520's clothing
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 16:00:52 -0500
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

I would like to make an dress to match the same time period as my husbands
with the exception that I want to do my persona's country. I have looked
some and have come up pretty empty on artwork for women's French clothing in
the 1520's. So if someone out there can help me find some artwork that would
be appropriate I would appreciate it. Thank you,
Carol Ross

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Subject: H-COST: H-cost:  Looking for McCall's
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Can anyone give me the phone number for the corporate offices of McCall's
Patterns?

their website has no contact info, not even an email link, and a Lycos
search also came up zilch.  What gives?  Do they have a parent corporation
name or something that I'm unaware of?  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 17:11:45 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
Message-ID: <19990923.171152.12974.0.henninlady@juno.com>
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-Poster: Elizabeth Cummins <henninlady@juno.com>

>Are these really "problems," or is it that the "look" you want is one
>that is considered attractive in the modern view? How are you defining
>"one done well"? 

"One done well" makes a person look like they just stepped out of an
illumination. This is not what I have seen so far.

>I can't be exactly sure what you're describing, of course, but fitted
>dresses from 1350-80 often had a "squashed" bustline. (Look at the
>Guillaume de Machaut manuscripts; there are a couple reprinted in
Avril's
>book on Manuscript Painting at the Court of France.  Also look at the
>brass of Joan de la Pole and other brasses/effigies of this period --
>Margaret Scott's Visual History of Costume has a good collection of

I prefer to call that a "firmly contained" bustline <grin>.  I see your
point, and have to tell you that I have not seen anything that looked
like a firmly contained bustline on the people that have done it. They
were definitely in the "squashed" (ie, small breasts completely
flattened, large breasts straining the fabric) category.

>these.) Later, as necklines dropped and bustlines rose, an "S" curve
along
>the front center seam was quite typical; you can see these in
manuscripts
>too numerous to count, including the Tres Riches Heures. There are other
>shapes too -- the breasts do a slow creep skyward over the course of 50
>years, and the silhouette goes through several distinct shifts. I've
>achieved this whole range with a succession of minor fitting changes on
a
>basic 4-piece cut.

So when you turn sideways, you see an S curve like this:

back of person	|	\       front of person
		|	  \
		|	    \
		|	      \
		|	       |
		|	     /
		|	  /
Right? I have been seeing this:

full frontal view of person      
		/	\	\
	             /		  \	  \
	          /		    \	    \
	       |		      |	      |
	         \		    /	    /
	           \		 /	 /
	              \		|	/

The front seam is pulling toward one breast. 

>I figured that I had the c. 1400-1415 construction down pat when I found
>that it put the wearer automatically into a "Gothic slouch" -- that

This is what I'd like to get from any costume I make. Putting on a
costume and automatically assuming the stance of the period is a real
thrill. I've managed to pull that off on the last three costumes I've
made and I've been tickled pink!

>On the other hand, it is possible to have an inappropriately "squashed" 
>bust (if I cut my armholes wrong, I sometimes get a bad horizontal
pulling
>right across the middle of the breasts). And the proper S-curve should
>have the bosom lifted, not dropping. So you may indeed have been seeing
a
>bad fit. 

Unless I am completely wrong, I'm pretty sure that this is the case. 

I read your random thoughts on fitting this type of dress in subsequent
posts, and  I'm despairing of ever being able to do one of these dresses
myself. I can't experiment on myself with this type of dress - laying
face down on a bed and trying to fit a back seam is simply not possible
for me, I'm afraid. I'm just not that double jointed <grin>. And if you
find it nearly impossible to describe it to someone, I have no chance in
seven hells of trying to explain to my less experienced fellow sewing
buddies what I'd like for them to do. Sigh. 

Elizabeth Cummins

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 16:40:41 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 17:57:40 -0400
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From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>



Robin Netherton wrote:

>Oh, dear, I'm afraid this has just gotten more confusing. The only way
>I've ever been able to teach this dress has been in person. And I'm sure
>that some people who make the same sort of four-piece dress have different
>ways of accomplishing it. But it IS possible -- anyone who's seen my
>models at my lectures, or any of the dresses I've made that are still
>being worn by various people, will tell you that it does work on different
>figure types. A few years ago at Kalamazoo, I had three models in this
>dress -- one thin, one tall and curvy, one short and plump. The dresses
>were in linen, silk, and wool, respectively. They all worked, and they
>were all clearly the same construction. Sorry I didn't get photos!
>
>--Robin

I have to say, I still have a gown Robin fitted for me ::mumble:: years 
ago.  I no longer fit IT, of course, but the ones I have made using her 
same methods, for myself and for others fit beautifully and provide all 
the necessary support.  Since I have seen her work this process 
firsthand, her explanation made perfect sense to me.  I think its clear 
enough to pick it up from just her description.

Now if I were just close enough to pick your brain on a regular basis, 
Robin....

Thank you for your teaching!

Lisee
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 16:45:07 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909232110.OAA32076@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-cost:  Looking for McCall's
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 17:55:37 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Good luck trying to find out information from any of the magazine/pattern
companies.  Their websites will provide very little information. Your best
bet is to go look in the front of their magazine and look at their credits.
Usually they have a 1-800 .  Then get ready for the zoo, trying to track
down the right person to talk too.

I have been chasing LHJ and Butterwick/Vogue for two months.  But I am
determined, I will find the right person to talk with.  If you do get a
number for McCall's let me know.

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 16:47:41 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 18:03:04 -0400
From: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>
Organization: The Curiosity Shop
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Mid 19th Century Little Boy Clothes
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-Poster: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>

The Adjutant's Office wrote:

> Can anyone recommend a pattern for a Civil War era-ish outfit for a
> little boy? I realize that a three year old boy would probably be
> still be in skirts, but I don't know that I'll be able to get him to
> put another dress on, so I'm looking for something along the lines of
> a sailor suit.

Sailor suits as such didn't become popular for children until later in
the century, but there were a variety of other charming outfits that
were popular instead.  There is an excellent pattern company that
specializes in children's clothing worn during the American Civil War
era called "For the Little Ones at Home'. The patterns are all drafted
from original garments and they work up beautifully. They are styles I
see very often on children in photos taken during that period.
The patterns can be purchased through Heritage Reproductions on line at:

http://members.tripod.com/~heritage_repro/

Happy sewing!

Glenna Jo Christen
gwjchris@rust.net
Visit our web site, "The Curiosity Shop"
http://www.rust.net/~gwjchris/


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 17:24:07 1999
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Subject: H-COST: organ pipe pleats-- from the confused
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 99 15:35:32 -0700
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-Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>


Is that Naomi Tarrant's History of Costume or Kohler's History of
Costume?

thanks!

Gail

>>Please help... I'm still confused... do you have a line drawing of this
>>on your website? I'd really really love to see a picture!
>
>No, there is one in the History of Costume book I mentioned. It looks like
>a 1/2 circle representing 1/2 the skirt. The pleats are divided like narrow
>pieces of a pie.  I put in three concentric circles below the waist on my
>bases, those mark the lines where the tapes are tacked.



Dogs come when you call them. Cats have answering machines.  

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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 17:46:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
In-Reply-To: <19990923.171152.12974.0.henninlady@juno.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 23 Sep 1999, Elizabeth Cummins wrote:

<descriptions of awkward-looking fitted dresses>

Yes, I think you are seeing bad fit. I've run into some of those problems
myself, and here's what I've done...

> I prefer to call that a "firmly contained" bustline <grin>.  I see your
> point, and have to tell you that I have not seen anything that looked
> like a firmly contained bustline on the people that have done it. They
> were definitely in the "squashed" (ie, small breasts completely
> flattened, large breasts straining the fabric) category.

Fully lining the garment really helps here. Two substantial layers share
the pressure and smooth out the fit. Also, remember that the images from
the period typically show someone wearing two dresses -- the inner one
takes all the strain, and the outer one just sits on top of that. 

> full frontal view of person      
> 		/	\	\
> 	             /		  \	  \
> 	          /		    \	    \
> 	       |		      |	      |
> 	         \		    /	    /
> 	           \		 /	 /
> 	              \		|	/
> 
> The front seam is pulling toward one breast. 

OH, yeah. This is common, as most women are at least a little lopsided. 
I've found it helps to actually tighten the fit a bit more on the *larger*
breast.  That may seem counterintuitive (most people would think you need
more room on the larger side) but it actually helps even things out.

To keep the front seam from shifting to one side, it also helps to put
your lacing in the front.  You're using a full lining, so the front edges
are finished with seams that have the seam allowances folded inside,
between the outer fabric and the lining. When you fit, allow enough room
to overlap the edges, and put the lacing holes no more than 3/4" apart and
no more than 3/4"  from the edge of the fabric. I offset the lacing holes,
too. Then -- this is important -- overlap the edges and lace up with a
single cord, tied off at the bottom and going up in a spiral. What you end
up with is a cord wrapped around a skinny stack of no less than eight
layers of fabric (on each side, that's main fabric, lining, and two seam
allowances). It's as strong as a bone, and it doesn't shift. Or gap. 

> I read your random thoughts on fitting this type of dress in subsequent
> posts, and  I'm despairing of ever being able to do one of these dresses
> myself. I can't experiment on myself with this type of dress - laying
> face down on a bed and trying to fit a back seam is simply not possible
> for me, I'm afraid. I'm just not that double jointed <grin>. And if you
> find it nearly impossible to describe it to someone, I have no chance in
> seven hells of trying to explain to my less experienced fellow sewing
> buddies what I'd like for them to do. Sigh. 

Oh, yes. I do not myself own one of my fitted dresses, for the same
reason. When I was 19 and first working this out, I was able to fit myself
-- but I was skinny, small-busted, and flexible. None of that is true
today, 20 years later!

I have some burgundy silk and some black wool I'm hoping to use to make
myself some fitted dresses someday, but only if some of my past students
actually make good on their promises to fly out some weekend and help me!

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 17:37:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 17:56:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: organ pipe pleats-- from the confused
In-Reply-To: <199909232235.PAA23412@scv2.apple.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 23 Sep 1999, Gail DeCamp wrote:

> Is that Naomi Tarrant's History of Costume or Kohler's History of
> Costume?

> >No, there is one in the History of Costume book I mentioned. It looks like
> >a 1/2 circle representing 1/2 the skirt. The pleats are divided like narrow
> >pieces of a pie.  I put in three concentric circles below the waist on my
> >bases, those mark the lines where the tapes are tacked.

I don't know what the original writer was referring to, but I believe
there's a pattern for this in Blanche Payne's History of Costume (first
edition; I don't know if the pattern was included in the second edition).
My books are packed, so I can't verify.

--Robin






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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 18:15:39 1999
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References: <EjZlHCAVZo63IwOX@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 16:28:14 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ashelford....
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
>
>  Thanks!  Does anyone know if this is still in print?  I'd love to
>not have to ILL it any more.....
>
>  Liadain
>> >
>> I made my hubby move my costume books in by the computer for just such
>> an eventuality!
>>
>> A Visual History of Costume: The Sixteenth Century
>> By Jane Ashelford
>> Published by B T Batsford Ltd, 1983
>> ISBN: 0713468289
>>
>> This is the paperback ISBN - the paperback edition was first published
>> 1993.
>>
>> Jean
>> --
>> Jean Waddie

Liadain,

This isn't meant to be a gloat, I swear.  In July Hedgehog Handworks had
about a dozen copies of this book for sale.  She said that the publisher
had called her out of the blue and asked her if she thought she might like
any of the copies they had found in their warehouse.  She said that she
thought she *might* be able to sell a copy or two.  When I called her and
ordered the book a week later I ordered her last book.  From what she said
they were out of print and not liable to reprint anytime soon.

It's a glorious book.  I'm very happy to own it.  I must have lived right
recently to have gotten the last book!

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 19:29:10 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 19:35:20 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: going into business
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

If you want to make the occasional garment for pay, you don't really need 
to do anything official about it. Of course, should the IRS find out you 
have unreported income, you could be fined.

But if you want the advantages of being a business, get a separate checking 
account for the business. If you want to accept charge cards, you will need 
a commercial bank account, which costs more.

Also, get a sales tax license from your state tax department. If you want 
to buy supplies at wholesale, they will ask you for your tax number. When 
you sell taxable items, you have to charge the tax and remit it to the state.

Keep records. If this is a business, all your expenses are tax deductible. 
If you have a room in your house completely devoted to the business, you 
can deduct a portion of your utilities and property taxes as a business 
expense. Major items may need to be depreciated over several tax years.

I'm not a lawyer or accountant, these are just some suggestions based on my 
experience.

Kim
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 19:42:54 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:52:01 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Book
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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

Hi Sally,

And I thank you for your information. I too have heard good things regarding 
this up coming book, and am anxious to see it completed. I will certainly 
keep checking the online sources. The Williamsburg program being planned for 
next January also looks as if it will be very good. I can only hope that I 
will be able to get some time off from work to attend. That is questionable 
at the moment. Thank you again.

Susan K.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 20:33:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 17:10:05 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: organ pipe pleats-- from the confused
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Gail DeCamp <gdecamp@best.com>
>
>
>Is that Naomi Tarrant's History of Costume or Kohler's History of
>Costume?

Blanche Payne's History of Costume FIRST Edition only


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 21:06:39 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 21:15:26 -0500
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I sort of agree.  It's a nice overview, and I can't see any details
> well enough to construct from it anyway.  As a lowly "theatrical"
> costumer who isn't too overly concerned about authenticity (at least
> usually not more than correct lines, fabrics and general look) I don't
> get into anything as explicit as the perfect seam construction.
> 
> I figure the more pics, the better to convey to a director with no
> sense at all of (fill in the period)  how folks looked back then.

I'm fortunate that the director I primarily work for (my dad!) is also a
historian with a great deal of experience in seeing historical pics (he
often pulls out the history books when suggesting a particular 'look'!)
but I agree... and from what I've seen, those of us who actually use
this book use it, not as a historical reference, but as a tool to get a
sense of what we (or whomever we're sewing for) want for a particular
piece of garb and *then* do the research.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 23:01:48 1999
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From: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: organ pipe pleats-- from the confused
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 04:12:18 GMT
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-Poster: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>

So does that mean that in effect, the top edge is done in what are pretty 
much like tiny little box pleats?  And because of the circular cut of the 
skirt, when you tack the inside folds of the pleats together you end up with 
ever widening tubes?

Tara


------------------------------
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: organ pipe pleats-- from the confused
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 23:26:45 -0500
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Ok.....I have to admit that I wasn't following this too well and happened to
delete the explanation permanently. So can someone forward the explanation
of how to do organ pipe pleats to me at gdc@airmail.net ?
Carol Ross

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 23 23:44:40 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Sarah,
We set up a legal business because we were working with non-profits who
wouldn't reimburse for salestax, and we got tired of showing every
needle and thread used.  Now we're tax-defered and can sent invoices for
finished product that are respected.  We aren't a self-sustaining
business, just a small one, really, but we can order wholesale when
necessary.  It makes an avocation more legit, though there is a bit more
paperwork.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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Subject: Re: H-COST: organ pipe pleats-- from the confused
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>
>
>So does that mean that in effect, the top edge is done in what are pretty
>much like tiny little box pleats?  And because of the circular cut of the
>skirt, when you tack the inside folds of the pleats together you end up with
>ever widening tubes?
>
>Tara

not really because the skirt is attached like cartridge pleating:

doublet
|
|
|----
   skirt


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 00:30:27 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>
>This is one of the reasons I hate shopping at Goodwill!!!   I don't know
>about the rest of you, but I rarely go shopping thinking, "hey, I think
I'll
>buy something RED today, never mind waht it is or what size".  Or are the
>ones near you organized within those color blocks?  The ones I've gone to
>aren't:  red blouses, vests, skirts, sweaters, all neatly arranged on a
rack
>with no attention to size at all.
>
>Margo


ALL of our thrift stores in Fresno and Clovis California are arranged this
way.  I don't think they want to pay their minimum wage employees to sort by
size.  It is aggravating.
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 00:35:41 1999
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 9/23/1999 22:44:26 Pacific Daylight Time, 
mandrake@mypad.com writes:

<< ALL of our thrift stores in Fresno and Clovis California are arranged this
 way.  I don't think they want to pay their minimum wage employees to sort by
 size.  It is aggravating.
 Michelle
  >>
There would never be a good way to sort by size in a thrift store.  Many of 
the articles are mis-sized and that is why they end up in the thrift stores 
in the first place.  My local stores do have a nice trick of tagging many 
items with measurements, (like the skirts will say "28-30" to give an idea of 
the waist, or other useful info they figure will help out).  I don't think 
it's to drive anyone crazy, but there's never any guarantee that they'll have 
any group of any one size, so they group by a look, like color or "short" 
dresses v "long" dresses.  I've just never seen it as a problem.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Be not afraid of greatness; some are born great,
some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust 
upon them."
Twelfth-Night, II, v - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:   http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 04:00:43 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 09:27:02 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

I worked with John about 11 years ago whilst at Morris Angels and he had
no pretensions about his book as being anything other than a timeline
over view. He was a BBC costume Designer (when they had such things in
house) and not a historian but had felt a need to to write something
that would help him and therefore others like him in there film/tv work.
Jeans Book should also be used in the same way as should the Hill and
Bucknell book Evolution of fashion all of which were written for the
film/tv costume maker (not the museum maker) and are all excellent books
in the category they are are written for 
Do also remember when he wrote this that many of the established must
have s in our libraries had also not been written or were very difficult
to get hold of.

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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>




> Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> 
>
> Oh, dear, I'm afraid this has just gotten more confusing. The only
> way I've ever been able to teach this dress has been in person.

It was clear to me, and I suspect a lot of others.  Diagrams would 
make it a bit clearer (of course, not really possible in this form of 
communication) but on the whole I'd say you explained it extremely 
clearly.

> And I'm sure that some people who make the same sort of four-piece
> dress have different ways of accomplishing it. 

I've done this on several people but on some (particularly the bysty 
ones) I end up with the "S" shaped centre front seam.  It looks 
horribly lumpy on the unworn garment but gives the "right" shape 
when worn.

I must try your method of fitting, however.  Getting the model to lie 
down so her bits aren't fightling gravity sounds like a hoot....<g>!

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: 1870's child clothes question
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Now for a question on a period I don't do much in....

Can any of you suggest some good sources for details of how a 
small girl (in the 6 -10 age group) would have been dressed in the 
early 1870's.  Preferably middle/upper-middle class household?

Particularly interested in clothes work at home during the day.

I'd really like to find out from underwear up.



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Subject: H-COST: 1900's House TV programme (UK)
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

"The 1900's House" is a new television programme in the UK. 

 A modern family of 6 has agreed to live as a turn of the century 
middle-class family for 3 months,  and have been put into a house 
of the period that has been refitted and decorated as it would have 
been in 1900.

Having watched the family kitted out and get their first view of their 
new home, in last night's episode, it looks to be really good

Some concessions had to be made.  The 4 children changed into 
modern clothes for school but had to change back into their period 
clothes (actual garments of the period or copies of garments in 
museums, fo the most part) before re-entering the house.

The mother and father have to wear their period clothes full-time 
(the father is an army officer who has transferred to a desk-job for 
the 3 month period, and *does* look splendid in his turn of the 
century uniform) They have about 4 pounds a week to payy for 
*everything and the mother has to balance the books and run the 
house.  She has been provided with a list of what items would have 
cost at the time but *everything* (including the mortgage and 
household bills) has to come out of the 4 pounds.

The scenes showing them getting dressed in their period clothes 
for the first time were most interesting, especially the look on the 
16 year old daughter's face...  And her expression at the idea of 
washing her hair using a gel made of soap-flakes and water was an 
absolute *picture*....<g>

Anyone else who saw it have any views on what was shown?





Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
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References: <50A298B69A5@mdx-ref1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1900's House TV programme (UK)
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 07:06:15 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, September 24, 1999 7:07 AM
> -Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>
> "The 1900's House" is a new television programme in the UK.
>
>  A modern family of 6 has agreed to live as a turn of the century
> middle-class family for 3 months,  and have been put into a house
> of the period that has been refitted and decorated as it would have
> been in 1900.
>

Ooh, this sounds like such fun!  My family would have volunteered in a
heartbeat!  =)  Is it airing only in England?


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 07:20:54 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <509F32A6B70@mdx-ref1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1870's child clothes question
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 08:31:05 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Hi Teddy,

If you might want to look at the American Dress Pattern Catalogs 1873-1909
edited by Nancy Villa Bryk.  This is one of those Dover Reprints.  ISBN
0-486-25654-5  I just recently used it to compare swimsuits between decades.
The pictures are very small but if you scan and enlarge them you can see a
lot of detail. There are children's clothes in the reprint. I have had a lot
of difficulty finding magazines from the 1870s.  The 1880s seem to be a
little easier to find.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 08:12:29 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1900's House TV programme (UK)
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Fascinating program, Teddy. Any chance we get to see it in US? 

Sally

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
Historic fashions' articles online at
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com/article.htm
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
In-Reply-To: <50950C05344@mdx-ref1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Fri, 24 Sep 1999, teddy1 wrote:

> It was clear to me, and I suspect a lot of others.  Diagrams would 
> make it a bit clearer (of course, not really possible in this form of 
> communication) but on the whole I'd say you explained it extremely 
> clearly.

Thanks! There are just SO many factors to describe in this fitting that I
really feel reluctant to try to explain it, for fear people will then try
it based on my incomplete description and blame me if it doesn't work
because I didn't give the ALL the information. But the people on the
h-cost list are more experienced than most :-) and I think are more
likely to have their own experience and judgment to add to my discussion.

> > And I'm sure that some people who make the same sort of four-piece
> > dress have different ways of accomplishing it. 
> 
> I've done this on several people but on some (particularly the bysty 
> ones) I end up with the "S" shaped centre front seam.  It looks 
> horribly lumpy on the unworn garment but gives the "right" shape 
> when worn.

I do find I need to curve the front seam on some people -- as you said,
the busty, and also more necessary with the earlier versions that have
higher necks (and thus more acreage to navigate).

> I must try your method of fitting, however.  Getting the model to lie 
> down so her bits aren't fightling gravity sounds like a hoot....<g>!

Particularly when I straddle her to lace her up. Always makes for an
amusing time when I'm demonstrating for a crowd.  Was even funnier when I
was eight months pregnant. 

Might be a more delicate matter for Teddy, though ;-)

--Robin

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-Poster: ches@io.com

What would a Muscovite man from Moscow Russia in 1599 be wearing?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 11:00:39 1999
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Am I the only one who thinks that this sounds remarkably like MTV's "Real
World" only as done by re-enactors? I suppose it really falls more into
the realm of experimental archeaology, but I can't help the comparison.
:-)

Karen
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Raglan sleeves
In-reply-to: <199909231804.MAA13091@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


I *knew* I'd seen one recently.... But I can't remember who was 
asking about it.

Whoever you are, take a look at this....

http://152.19.254.81/wm/paint/auth/weyden/magdalen.jpg

Of course, this is the point where someone points out that raglan 
sleeves aren't what I think they are...<g>



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-cost:  Looking for McCall's
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 09:42:00 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Margo,
  Did you try asking the fabric store for their number?   If it isn't on a
pattern envelope or at their website, that is the only other idea I can
think of.
Michelle


>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Can anyone give me the phone number for the corporate offices of McCall's
>Patterns?
>
>their website has no contact info, not even an email link, and a Lycos
>search also came up zilch.  What gives?  Do they have a parent corporation
>name or something that I'm unaware of?
>
>Margo
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 11:29:18 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: mccall's
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


Try the 1-800 directory... you never know...

Sarah



-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Margo,
  Did you try asking the fabric store for their
number?   If it isn't
on a
pattern envelope or at their website, that is the only
other idea I can
think of.
Michelle


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 12:41:44 -0400
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

Connie ? wrote:  I have looked some and have come up pretty empty on
artwork for women's French clothing in the 1520's. So if someone out
there can help me find some artwork that would be appropriate I would
appreciate it.

1520 corresponds to Tudor England. The main visual difference between
French (Valois? I believe) and English Tudor at that time seems to be
the fit of the arms, and the lack of point in the waist. I am not sure
which court influenced which, and where the conical shape came from
first, although dialog from Hollywood movies (always a supremely
reliable source!) is making me think the French were more fashion
conscious.

at any rate, If you take a look at the famous tapestry cycles, like the
Unicorn Hunt from the Cluny and Cloisters, you can see many examples of
the earlier form of dress, circa 1500. In the tapestries you see the
closer fitting "more medieval" shapes, but also these voluminous skirted
gowns, of varied closures and constructions. the tapestries are really
interesting, but frustrating for this reason: there are so many
variations, it makes one wonder if it was imagination, allegory, or if
there were really this many types. I personally think the latter,
although in some cases the differences seem to be extreme.

These gowns are usually square necked, but angled slightly in a
trapezoidal shape. They have a V neck at the back.  Deeply cut squarish
armscye, and sleeves that are NOT tightly fitted in the upper arm. They
have a more moderate cut than the Tudor version, and gradually get
fuller. The waist lines are straight cut, and seem to be at a normal
modern height. The skirts do not seem to be pleated at the front, and so
must be cut in a gored or circular pattern, I think. However, the back
of the skirt was pleated heavily for extra volume.

The most interesting thing about these dresses (to me) is the cut seen
on some of the back views. It is pieced - almost a forerunner of the "V"
backed bodice that came later. However, the pieces that would be the
side/back part of the front bodice (crystal clear, I know) are pieced
horizontally; slightly lower than the middle of the back. Let's see:
           ____
\  \   /  /  |      \
 \  \ /  /   |      \\
-\  |  /---|
   \ | /     |---
__\|/___|

That's not a very good picture, but I hope it helps. I'm looking a a
picture from the Cluny Collection, entitled " La Tenture de la Vie
Seignuriale"., Scenes Galantes" Sorry I can't give a good translation..

Oh, there were also some neat pieces shown in the front of the bodice,
that I have speculated over with friends. (Now looking at one entitled
"La Broderie"/"Embroiderie") There appears to be an white underdress (I
will hesitate to call it a corset, although it certainly provided form
shaping), which has exposed grometts/eyelets with lacing across. Just
one set is visible. This could be the shirt, but I've never seen one
with eyelets and lacing. Shoulder pieces are visible also, matching the
edge of the gown. Underneath this, above the front edge of the gown, is
a black band, perhaps velvet. This is seen in many of the dresses, even
the weirder close cut ones. I have seen similar borders of black or
brown in Raphael portraits around the same time. I think that this is
the underdress, as some also show shoulder pieces visible.

At any rate, there is way to much variety in these things to describe
well. Take a look at them, and then you can also see similar designs in
Tudor England. The French versions have always seemed more moderate and
comfortable to me.

Also, if you can find a copy of Le Costume Civile en France, by Camille
Piton (Flammarion, early 1920's?), there are a lot of pictures in that.
Hope this helps!

Liz Jones


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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 18:30:06 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ashelford....
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>  Thanks!  Does anyone know if this is still in print?  I'd love to
>not have to ILL it any more.....

I've tried to order it this year but, was told it was out of print. :(

Cheers,
Danielle

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: French 1520's dress
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Fri, 24 Sep 1999, Elizabeth Jones wrote:

> at any rate, If you take a look at the famous tapestry cycles, like the
> Unicorn Hunt from the Cluny and Cloisters, you can see many examples of
> the earlier form of dress, circa 1500. In the tapestries you see the
> closer fitting "more medieval" shapes, but also these voluminous skirted
> gowns, of varied closures and constructions. the tapestries are really
> interesting, but frustrating for this reason: there are so many
> variations, it makes one wonder if it was imagination, allegory, or if
> there were really this many types. I personally think the latter,
> although in some cases the differences seem to be extreme.

Allegory is certainly an issue, but on a more basic level, tapestries are
notorious for mixing styles of different periods, for reasons related to
their construction. Tapestries were woven based on drawings called
cartoons. These were often re-used; it was not uncommon for a tapestry
studio to produce multiple versions of a single scene, often with elements
added or changed to meet client's needs (e.g. make it wider, add
something, subtract something, etc.). Over time, portions of the cartoon
might be updated, while others remained unchanged. Or the shop might mix
parts of older cartoons with newer ones in a single tapestry. You get some
remarkable incongruities. (Monumental brasses pose some similar problems
with dating, as they also were mass-produced in shops, based on specific
reusable designs.) Remember also that tapestries could take decades to
weave, and parts of the design might be altered during that time.

And then, when you add the element of later restorations, things could get
truly weird. Remember, restorations are not just 19th and 20th century.
Sections of a tapestry might have been repaired or rewoven just a few
decades, or even less, after a tapestry was completed -- and the new
sections might reflect slightly later fashions. There's plenty of records
of tapestries that were cut apart to fit new walls, or that had pieces cut
out of them to allow for a doorway or something -- and then later those
pieces might be combined with others, or the original tapestry could be
moved again and the gap filled in. The restorers were good, and it can be
hard to tell today (at least from an image in a book) whether any parts
were altered. I presume a tapestry expert, making close examination, could
find the traces of additions and repairs, but based on some art-history
criticisms I've seen, I suspect this approach has been neglected.

Tapestries are great sources, and I love using them. For one thing, you
can guarantee the colors reflect what was achievable with real dye (after
you allow for fading). But I try to be very careful about dates -- I read
as much as I can on the provenance of a particular tapestry (e.g. do we
know when it was ordered? delivered? Are there any other known versions of
the same scene?), and when I'm examining a particular dress style, I look
for as many similar examples I can find in as many media as possible.

--Robin

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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 18:22:14 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1900's House TV programme (UK)
In-reply-to: <199909241631.KAA02284@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

 
> Ooh, this sounds like such fun!  My family would have volunteered in a
> heartbeat!  =)  Is it airing only in England?

> Fascinating program, Teddy. Any chance we get to see it in US? 

As far as I know it's only in the UK at present.... It's on Channel 4.  
I heard about it because the office next door helped with it -
Museum of Domestic Design and Architecture and Silver Studio 
collection (contemporary to the William Morris Studio and now run 
as part of the University where I work)

Some of our UK programmes make it out to the US though...

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: "H-COSTUME" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Maciejowski Bible
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 17:42:20 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Do any of you know anything about the Maciejowski Bible?
It resides in the Pierpont Morgan Library, New York, Ms. 638 and has the
most wonderful late 13th c people in it, I know. Where was it made, is it
known who made it, which precise time period and why there is arabic
written around the pictures.

Has it come out in facsimile? Or are there books in which there are more
illustrations than the same 4 tantalising pages you see everywhere in
costume and armour books.

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books -Peacock
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 17:32:00 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi alle,

Dawn wrote: 
> I worked with John about 11 years ago whilst at Morris Angels and he had
> no pretensions about his book as being anything other than a timeline
> over view. He was a BBC costume Designer (when they had such things in
> house) and not a historian but had felt a need to to write something
> that would help him and therefore others like him in there film/tv work.

All I know is that there are a lot of things wrong with the drawings form
Henry III - 1216-72 to Cloaks and mantles 1327-1377 and I suspect, without
being able to point the finger exactly (I should  look more closely for
that), a lot more before and after that. 

Henk
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Houppelande
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 17:19:53 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Charles wrote:
> Where did the guardecorp come from?  It evolved from a garment that 
> pre-existed it etc. etc. etc.  

I don't know. I've tried to find an ancestor of the gardecorps but cannot.
Of course it's basically a wide surcotte, with extra long pleated sleeves
and slit near the armopening, and it has a hood. Surcottes with hoods have
existed before the 13th c, but extra long, wide and pleated sleeves I
haven't found anywhere. Has anybody?

I spoke of evolution, and the reason I chose 
> the 12th century as a recomended starting point is that I know there is 
> portraiture of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine in loose fitting
garments 
> that somewhat resemble a houppelande.  

Could you give me a source for this? I've only seen them in mantles, ever.
You don't mean the efiigies on their graves in Fontevrault? Mantles there
as well.

I did not mean to imply that the 
> houppeande started coming into being in the 12th century, but then again
in a 
> manner of speaking...I guess it was in the process. I ask that you please

> excuse my failure to adequately clarify what I meant.
> 
Don't worry, it happens all the time and to me too.

Henk

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1900's House TV programme (UK)
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 17:33:33 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Teddy wrote: 
> "The 1900's House" is a new television programme in the UK. 

Is this a BBC programme? If so, when is it on?

Henk
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From: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: French 1520's dress
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-Poster: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>

Hi,

There's a great text called The Valois Tapestries. Yes, tapestries can be 
somewhat unreliable but this will give you another source to look at. I've 
found this book at most large libraries. If you're really desperate, I can 
scan in pix and put them up on my website.

The tapestries have a somewhat Italian flavor to them, which is hardly 
surprising, given whom they were made for and when.

Let me know if you'd like to view some scans...

Laurellen

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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1870's child clothes question
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Penny

> If you might want to look at the American Dress Pattern Catalogs 1873-1909
> edited by Nancy Villa Bryk.  This is one of those Dover Reprints.  ISBN
> 0-486-25654-5  I just recently used it to compare swimsuits between
> decades. The pictures are very small but if you scan and enlarge them you
> can see a lot of detail. There are children's clothes in the reprint. I
> have had a lot of difficulty finding magazines from the 1870s.  The 1880s
> seem to be a little easier to find.

Thanks, I'll see if we have it in stock here, or request it on ILL.  I 
don't have much luck with scanners but I'll see what I can do...<g>

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> I do find I need to curve the front seam on some people -- as you said,
> the busty, and also more necessary with the earlier versions that have
> higher necks (and thus more acreage to navigate).

That's the ones (I've never tried one of the *really* low-cut ones for 
fear of it slipping off the shoulders and then the bodice sliding down 
under the weight of the breasts...<g>)   The higher cut ones, I've 
found sometimes need the CF seam to be curved back in again at 
the top to avoid unsightly neckline-gape.
 
> > I must try your method of fitting, however.  Getting the model to lie
> > down so her bits aren't fightling gravity sounds like a hoot....<g>!
> 
> Particularly when I straddle her to lace her up. Always makes for an
> amusing time when I'm demonstrating for a crowd.  Was even funnier when I
> was eight months pregnant. 
> 
> Might be a more delicate matter for Teddy, though ;-)

Probably not, actually.  I can't imagine mere fittings being a 
problem as seem to have an exemption which allows me into the 
Ladies' changing rooms and toilets.  Judging by the comments 
when it happens it's called, "Of course *you're* allowed in!" or "It's 
only *Teddy*, he doesn't count!"

Besides which, who else would  they get to unlace and strip off 
gown, under-gown corset and chemise, put on new chemise, 
relace corset, new undergown, new overgown and put on 
headdress for the girls who only have 15 minutes to change for 
court....<g>?


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: organ pipe pleats-- from the confused
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 17:43:49 GMT
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-Poster: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>

>not really because the skirt is attached like cartridge pleating:
>
>doublet
>|
>|
>|----
>    skirt

Oh dear.  Just when I thought I understood, now I'm completely confused 
again...and I have the Payne book too.

>Yes, for each pleat, the skirt is folded on the pleat line, good
>sides together. A seam is sewn from the waist to the hem.

How far from the fold are you stitching?  Is this where the 3/4" comes in?

>(this must be done after lining, banding, decorations, and finishing
>is completed)

So the top edge is not a raw edge, but is finished with the lining, right?

>from a Sideways perspective, looking down on the top of the skirt
>after pinching it should look kind of like this:

>(
>(
>(
>(
>(
>(

>But each curve has a little seam where they touch edges.

This means that each tube isn't actually closed all the way around?  If not, 
that's why I'm so confused.

>It pinches the fabric into an arc on the outside

Are you cartridge pleating it on by taking a few stitches at the top of each 
arc?  Doesn't the weight of the skirt pull it down so it is no longer an arc 
but a point?

Sorry to be so dumb.  Is there a book or a webpage somewhere with diagrams 
that I can look at?  I've seen the directions in _The Art of Manipulating 
Fabric_ and what they describe is something totally different.

Tara

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Subject: H-COST: skirt guards
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

I've just begun to make my first German Ren, but am still in the planning
the pattern stage.  What I have is 6yrd of lavendar/greyish heavy linen and
would like to use black cotton velveteen for the guards.  I've done guards
at the neckline before, but never on a skirt.  I have two questions.  A)
will the velvet make the linen skirt drap differently and B) should the
guards be applied to the skirt pieces, then the skirt sewn together or
should the skirt be sewn together and then the guards sewn to the finished
skirt?
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 12:48:27 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: French 1520's dress
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 12:58:25 -0500
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

No that is ok, although I appreciate the offer though. I will go to the
libraries to see if I can find that book. Thank you,
Carol Ross
-----Original Message-----
From: Tammie L. Dupuis <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, September 24, 1999 12:31 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: French 1520's dress


>
>-Poster: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi,
>
>There's a great text called The Valois Tapestries. Yes, tapestries can be
>somewhat unreliable but this will give you another source to look at. I've
>found this book at most large libraries. If you're really desperate, I can
>scan in pix and put them up on my website.
>
>The tapestries have a somewhat Italian flavor to them, which is hardly
>surprising, given whom they were made for and when.
>
>Let me know if you'd like to view some scans...
>
>Laurellen
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 13:05:01 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 13:24:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Maciejowski Bible
In-Reply-To: <199909241725.TAA05212@worldonline.nl>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Fri, 24 Sep 1999, Henk 't Jong wrote:

> Do any of you know anything about the Maciejowski Bible?
> It resides in the Pierpont Morgan Library, New York, Ms. 638 and has the
> most wonderful late 13th c people in it, I know. Where was it made, is it
> known who made it, which precise time period and why there is arabic
> written around the pictures.
> 
> Has it come out in facsimile? Or are there books in which there are more
> illustrations than the same 4 tantalising pages you see everywhere in
> costume and armour books.

My books are packed, so I can't be absolutely certain this is the same
manuscript, but I can't imagine there being another one like this! If it's
the one I'm thinking of, there was a wonderful facsimile edition put out
in the 1960s by Braziller, under the title "Old Testament Miniatures." The
book is coffee-table sized, has more than 200 huge color pictures, and is
absolutely gorgeous. You should be able to find more detail on this book
if you search the database of a university library. I have used library
copies of this book on and off for years, and this year at Kalamazoo I
finally sprang for my own copy. It normally goes for about $125 at the
used book stalls, but I found one for $65, hurrah. I need to repair the
binding a bit, but I buy these things for the pictures, not the bindings.

Henk, if you haven't found a copy through the usual used market by May, I
will pick one up for you at K'zoo if you like. I've seen copies surface at
the used stalls there every year. I can't guarantee you'll get such a good
price, though!

One of the interesting points about the manuscript for paleographers is
that it has three languages -- Latin (I think), Arabic, and Hebrew. Two of
them are handwritten glosses in the margins, presumably translations or
commentary, apparently added by various owners of the book. I forget the
details, and my own copy is buried somewhere in the packing boxes. (I seem
to be saying that a lot these days, don't I?)

--Robin

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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <51084400438@mdx-ref1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Raglan sleeves
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 13:24:26 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  Wow - all that AND the infamous Air-Filter Hat....
  But it looks like a raglan sleeve to me too....

  Liadain

> I *knew* I'd seen one recently.... But I can't remember who was 
> asking about it.
> Whoever you are, take a look at this....
> 
> http://152.19.254.81/wm/paint/auth/weyden/magdalen.jpg
> 
> Of course, this is the point where someone points out that raglan 
> sleeves aren't what I think they are...<g>
> 
> 
> 
> Teddy
> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> air and darkness, apparently!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Plaid T-tunics at St Francis of Assisi exhibit
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 08:28:01 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


Yesterday, I saw something I've never seen in any of the medieval
illuminations, paintings or frescoes: gentlemen wearing plaid T-tunics.
Even more shocking the tunics (2 matching, 1 in a larger scale) were in a
color combo that the roaring '20s would call "artichoke & coral".
Admittedly, I'm fairly new to anything earlier than about 1802 costuming -
mostly I live & dance in the 19th c., but is this plaid stuff wildly
atypcial?  It's not clear who these guys are supposed to be, where they're
supposed to be from. I'm not familiar with any of the hagiography to make a
reasonable guess.

Photo of fresco on display at the Palace of the Legion of Honor,
SFrancisco - as you enter the PLA, turn right, back of the hall on the left.
Simon Martini (active 1284-1344) "St. Martin being Knighted by Emperor
Julian".  This fresco is from the the Chapel of St Martin, lower church in
the Basilica of St Francis, Assisi, Italy.  Disappointingly, it's not
reproduced in the tour catalogs or on the postcards.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 15:01:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
In-Reply-To: <5119F7D2630@mdx-ref1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Fri, 24 Sep 1999, teddy1 wrote:

> That's the ones (I've never tried one of the *really* low-cut ones for 
> fear of it slipping off the shoulders and then the bodice sliding down 
> under the weight of the breasts...<g>) 

I've never had that problem. I've found the close-to-the-body armhole and
the tension on the neckline (which is a curve pulled wider) hug the dress
right to the body. It sure *looks* precarious, though! Remember to make
sure the breasts are in their maximum highest position while you're
fitting, so they can't bounce out in wear -- doing some fitting while
lying down is essential. (Hmm, maybe gravity boots ... ;-D )

>  The higher cut ones, I've 
> found sometimes need the CF seam to be curved back in again at 
> the top to avoid unsightly neckline-gape.

Yep. I make lacing holes fairly early on in the process, but I don't do
the top two or three sets of holes till I'm sure I don't need to shape
that top inch or two of center opening. 

> Besides which, who else would  they get to unlace and strip off 
> gown, under-gown corset and chemise, put on new chemise, 
> relace corset, new undergown, new overgown and put on 
> headdress for the girls who only have 15 minutes to change for 
> court....<g>?

Hey, I'll take you here anytime! My husband can barely lace. I've also
given up on teaching him how to braid my hair.

--Robin


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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Plaid T-tunics at St Francis of Assisi exhibit
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 19:58:39 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Fri, 24 Sep 1999 08:28:01 -0700, the following was written in this
electric book by "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>:

>
>-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
>
>
>Yesterday, I saw something I've never seen in any of the medieval
>illuminations, paintings or frescoes: gentlemen wearing plaid T-tunics.
>Even more shocking the tunics (2 matching, 1 in a larger scale) were in a
>color combo that the roaring '20s would call "artichoke & coral".
>Admittedly, I'm fairly new to anything earlier than about 1802 costuming -
>mostly I live & dance in the 19th c., but is this plaid stuff wildly
>atypcial?  It's not clear who these guys are supposed to be, where they're
>supposed to be from. I'm not familiar with any of the hagiography to make a
>reasonable guess.

Checked or plaid and striped fabrics are among the oldest form of
patterned fabrics, becasue they could be woven into plain weave
fabrics with no special equipment or skills besides changing shuttles.
Examples of checked or plaid fabrics and garment fragments have been
dug up at archaeological sites throughout the world, from all periods
where weaving products have been preserved, except for egypt (that I
have been able to find...).

I would guess that, as plaids/checks are difficult to draw
attractively in small representations (not to mention busy), they were
worn, but simply left out of many depictions for efficiency's sake.

There is a fragment of a sleeve, dug up in London, that dateds form
the 14thc. It is a brownish plaid now, but was apparently blue and
white at the time it was new. Correct me if I'm wrong about the
colours, I'm packing to move and don't want to dig it out...

Hope this was somewhat helpful.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Plaid T-tunics at St Francis of Assisi exhibit
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com> wrote:
>Yesterday, I saw something I've never seen in any of the medieval
>illuminations, paintings or frescoes: gentlemen wearing plaid T-tunics.

Ah, you haven't been looking at the "right" medieval illuminations :-)

"Plaid" cloth was woven in the Middle East (likely elsewhere, but my
knowledge is limited). It is visible in a number of "Medieval" manuscript
paintings from Egypt and Syria, often as an undertunic. Some textile
fragments of woven linen survive in museums. Most of those i've seen are
white, brown, and indigo, but some have design elements of red and/or
yellow.

Remember, weaving a "plaid" pattern is much easier than weaving silk
brocade or voided velvet. You just alternate the colored thread as you warp
the loom and use two or three shuttles as you weave. No complex equipment,
no special pick-up patterns. Real simple and straight forward.

It is true that one rarely sees such material in Medieval European
paintings. But i have come to doubt that one is seeing a true
representation of fabric and dye colors in pre-Renaissance Europe
manuscript illuminations. Remember the palatte of the painter and the
palette of the dyer are not the same, and the art is highly stylized, not
naturalistic. The artist is painting from his imagination, almost never
from "life". The more i learn about painting and pigment and the more i
learn about Medieval dyes and weaving, the more i come to doubt that i can
reconstruct fabric patterns and colors from illuminations.

Lilinah


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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 13:20:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> I've never had that problem. I've found the
> close-to-the-body armhole and
> the tension on the neckline (which is a curve pulled
> wider) hug the dress
> right to the body. It sure *looks* precarious,
> though! Remember to make
> sure the breasts are in their maximum highest
> position while you're
> fitting, so they can't bounce out in wear -- doing
> some fitting while
> lying down is essential. (Hmm, maybe gravity boots
> ... ;-D )

Uh-oh... the Lucy Lawless syndrome...  no, seriously,
though... I have never, ever had the "falling out"
problem with my 40D's... and I run after "bad guys
with swords" in my dresses... most of mine are tight
to the body, so I think that holds things in.


> Hey, I'll take you here anytime! My husband can
> barely lace. I've also
> given up on teaching him how to braid my hair.

You even tried?  Dear me... mine can't even knot his
tie... I can't imagine what he would do to my hair (he
could probably KNOT that!)  I actually have a guy
friend who does braids and lacing better than any
woman I know... when I am at my live action weekends,
he tends to come right in to the women's dressing
areas... no one minds because it is "just him..." 
then again, women also using him for the boyfriend
sounding post "don't you just hate men?" they say "er,
no" he replies... It is really amusing...

Sarah


Sarah

> 
> --Robin
> 
> 
> 
>
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__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 14:59:13 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 13:14:34 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> but is this plaid stuff wildly atypcial?

> Photo of fresco on display at the Palace of the Legion of Honor,
> SFrancisco - as you enter the PLA, turn right, back of the hall on the left.
> Simon Martini (active 1284-1344)

What I can tell you is this.  In the Museum of London Textiles and Clothing book
one of the sets of sleeves found is a red and white check!  You have to look
really close to see the checks because everything turned brown while in the
dirt, but you *can* see the checks. Red and white!  Cool!   The medieval person
*loved* color from what I can tell so why not artichoke and coral?

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 16:32:04 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ashelford....
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>



> 
> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> >  Thanks!  Does anyone know if this is still in print?  I'd love to
> >not have to ILL it any more.....
> 
> I've tried to order it this year but, was told it was out of print. :(

I did a search on bibliofind.com, and managed to obtain a copy through a bookseller in the 
UK just a few months ago. I've just done another search on bibliofind, but didn't find one 
there. However, I did a search on bookfinder.com, and turned up one copy, through 
Advanced Book Exchange. The dealer is John Ives Bookseller, also presumably in the UK, 
since the price is 13 pounds, 50 pence (sorry, I can't seem to make the pound symbol with 
my keyboard!)

If you go to http://www.bookfinder.com and type in the author's name and title, you should 
be able to find the info. You can then send an email to the dealer to see if they still have a 
copy in stock (book search web pages are sometimes out of date, and by the time you 
send the email, the book has already been sold. I know this from sad experience.) You 
could probably also go directly to the ABE web site, but I find Bookfinder much more user-
friendly.

Good luck!
--Jessica
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 16:38:41 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Maciejowski Bible
In-Reply-To: <199909241725.TAA05212@worldonline.nl>
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

Hello Henk & Pauline,

I did some searching and came up with the following.  Cardinal 
Maciejowski held the manuscript in the 17th century but it is known
by several names apparently.  There is a website for a
reproduction of the full manuscript pieced together from three
different extant copies, at:  
	<http://www.ozemail.com.au/~finns/morgan.htm>

Looks like it would cost a bundle and no indication it is out BUT...
the website gives a full history of the manuscript(s) and explains
why the added Latin text has Persian and Hebrew translations in
the margins.  Is the site accurate?  Who knows!  But its a good place
to start. They refer to it as the "Morgan Crusader Bible of Louis IX."
283 illustrations with later additions of Latin, Persian and Hebrew text.

Marsha     
-----------------------------
>Do any of you know anything about the Maciejowski Bible?
>It resides in the Pierpont Morgan Library, New York, Ms. 638 and has the
>most wonderful late 13th c people in it, I know. Where was it made, is it
>known who made it, which precise time period and why there is arabic
>written around the pictures.
>
>Has it come out in facsimile? Or are there books in which there are more
>illustrations than the same 4 tantalising pages you see everywhere in
>costume and armour books.
>
>Henk

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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 17:07:57 -0400
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From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Maciejowski Bible-more!
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

Henk,

"Old Testament Miniatures" by Sydney Cockerell is indeed available
with (many? all?) of the illustrations of the Maciejowski Bible.
Do a web search on:
		http://www.bookfinder.com

Then search under the title Old Testament Miniatures.  You'll get
screen after screen of copies of the London and New York editions
with descriptions, costing anywhere from $65 - $200 (US).  I didn't
go through the whole list but there might be some booksellers 
geographically closer to you, since bookfinder is an
international database.  The terms of sale from each bookseller
are clickable too.  I use "bookfinder" all the time in my capacity
as the Monographs Librarian at the Ohio State University Libraries.
Happy hunting.

Marsha
--------------------------------------
>Do any of you know anything about the Maciejowski Bible? ........
>Has it come out in facsimile? Or are there books in which there are more
>illustrations than the same 4 tantalising pages you see everywhere in
>costume and armour books.

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books -Peacock
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 19:01:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings--

I can appreciate why Peacock wrote the book, and as an overview guide for
theatrical costuming, it probably fills the bill quite nicely.

However, I have, on a number of occasions, had people come to me wanting me
to make them something shown in Peacock, quite under the impression that
it's historically accurate.  Someone actually told me, "I bought this from
(name of SCA bookseller) and they wouldn't sell anything that wasn't any
good." Some have been pretty insistent that it's a "good" (as in accurate)
source, based on its scope and the fact that you can find it easily. I have
also watched friends make something based on something on Peacock, decide to
enter it into a competition, and then spend way too many fruitless hours
trying to find the source for "that outfit."

That's why the Peacock book frustrates me. If folks would use it the way I
think it was intended to be used, we wouldn't have this problem.

Susan

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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 23:33:25 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1900's House TV programme (UK)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

teddy1 wrote:
> 
> -Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> 
> "The 1900's House" is a new television programme in the UK.
> 
>  > 
> Anyone else who saw it have any views on what was shown?
> 
> 
Yes I saw it and thought it was very well done particularly as the
family are 'real' and not re-enactor types which means they haven't any
preconceived notions. 
It will be very interesting to see how they go on 

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 18:17:19 1999
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

Thanks Robin! The diagram helps a lot. I'm eager to try it!

-Amanda


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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Fri, 24 Sep 1999, Henk 't Jong wrote:

> 
> Charles wrote:
> > Where did the guardecorp come from?  It evolved from a garment that 
> > pre-existed it etc. etc. etc.  
> 
> I don't know. I've tried to find an ancestor of the gardecorps but cannot.
> Of course it's basically a wide surcotte, with extra long pleated sleeves
> and slit near the armopening, and it has a hood. Surcottes with hoods have
> existed before the 13th c, but extra long, wide and pleated sleeves I
> haven't found anywhere. Has anybody?
> 
Perhaps they just evolved as a kind of status symbol (after all, they
do seem to have been worn largely by professional men). Looking at
manuscript pictures the sleeves of gardecorps vary wildly in length and
width. I wonder what a survey of gardecorps sleeve sizes correlated with
manuscript dates would reveal ie are the shorter skinnier ones all in
the early part of the 13th century? 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Cc: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Charles de Blois Pourpoint pattern
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 11:29:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


   >It makes sense, then, that you see that "grande assiette" construction
almost exclusively on pictures of young noblemen, knights, fighter-types.
Not on old, fat, or skinny guys.

What's a "grande assiette"? Yeah, I got "big plate", but what does this term
mean in a tailoring context? I'm guessing it's the size of the armhole.  Is
this a modern or contemp term?

Oh. I hadnt noticed the typical wearer.  I see so many of the dancing
Italian men wearing this sort of thing, too. That's what I'd noticed.
There's a group of dancing men nearby who'd look just dishy in somthing like
this. Perhaps a plot is in order... or some barter...

   >Another tip on the poupoint: I built the lining on the man's body first,
then (while he was wearing it), I laid cotton padding over the lining to
smooth out and build up the chest.

Quilting.  OK, I'm a quilter I can do this.  The Charles the Bold jacque
(screaming red silk satin) is clearly quilted tho' not much batt based on
the sm pic of it lying flat as shown in Boucher.

The CdBlois pourpoint is always shown on the stand.  How much batt or
domette? How much is the stand the padding and the p'point.  Are you just
smoothing muscle line & body hollows as per interfacing in modern tailoring
or are you reshaping the body more extremely?  I've envisioned maybe 1 layer
of "warm & natural" batt or even lighter, like domette.  Possibly 2-3
tapered layers to fill in the hollow of the pecs & shoulder.

What I'm really questioning is whether that dancing stance is just a body
stance, artistic license or whether it's 1"+ of padding to form that
"peacock" chest. Likely, y'all are going to say it's some of each.

>found I had to keep cutting in to give him free arm movement that wouldn't
rip the back open. This is easier to show in person, I think!  ... This
particular one is probably still walking around the Milwaukee area, though

Rats. I'd love to see it up close.  You dont end up in Northern CA much, by
any chance, do you?  Actually, your descriptions make plenty of sense,
perhaps because I tailor and fashion close fitting bodices in the 19th &
20th c modes.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

-----Original Message-----
From:	Cynthia Barnes@PICO@PTLSANJOSE
Sent:	Friday, September 24, 1999 8:02 AM
To:	Cynthia Barnes@PICO@PTLSANJOSE
Subject:	Charles de Blois Pourpoint pattern



From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 23:24:46 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: H-COST: Charles de Blois Pourpoint pattern

- -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>

On Wed, 22 Sep 1999, Cynthia Barnes wrote:

> In Naomi Tarrant's book "Development of Costume", she has a rough line
> drawing of the Charles de Blois Pourpoint pattern.  She references a circa
> 1929? article where someone took a pattern.  Has anyone seen this source?
> Is it of reasonable quality to use for a pattern template?  I'm not
> expecting JArnold or JHunnniset contruction details, but I would like some
> idea of where the ease is (if any), where and what shaping materials to
use
> and a picture of the back contruction.

Blanche Payne has an excellent graphed pattern of this in the back of the
FIRST edition of her History of Costume. I don't think it's in the second
edition. You might be able to find a copy of the first edition at a
library; it's scarce now. My copy is someone's old college text, all
marked up and with some pictures cut out, but the patterns intact, hurrah.

Combining the pattern with her photo of the front of the pourpoint and a
close up of a bit of the inside, and Stella Mary Newton's photo of a
different angle in Black Prince, I was able to come up with a pretty
credible pourpoint.

My most interesting discovery in making that one -- those deep scooped
armholes are actually necessary to fit a man with good upper-body
musculature. I derived the same cut by working on a muscular man's body,
and placing the seams where I needed to accommodate muscle stretching.
They ended up falling almost exactly where Charles de Blois' had, though I
hadn't intended to replicate the deep armholes when I started -- I was
just going to make a close-fitting pourpoint, and found I had to keep
cutting in to give him free arm movement that wouldn't rip the back open.
This is easier to show in person, I think!

It makes sense, then, that you see that "grande assiette" construction
almost exclusively on pictures of young noblemen, knights, fighter-types.
Not on old, fat, or skinny guys.

As for the sleeves themselves, I took one look at the bizarre combination
of trangles and curves in the Payne pattern, said "I can make no sense of
this," and closed the book. Instead, I draped the fabric over the man's
shoulders and arms, laid the bias where I needed stretch and grain where I
wanted structure, pinned the fabric to the open cut edge of the armhole,
dropped in a gore to fill the triangular space left at the fabric's edge
- -- and when I took it off and looked at what I had, it was almost exactly
the same shape as the Charles de Blois sleeve. OK, so it did make sense
after all.

The lower sleeve construction I've used before on fitted dresses. It looks
odd, but you have to bear in mind that the deep point of that curved V
falls at the inside of the elbow, and the larger wings wrap to the
outside, over the elbow. I had derived this part of the construction on a
body, before I ever saw the Charles de Blois pattern, by fitting fabric
around an arm bent at 45 degrees. Why 45 degrees? Because that's the
neutral point. If you fit to a straight arm, you won't be able to bend it.
If you fit to a tightly bent arm, it wrinkles too much when you straighten
it. But I digress.

Another tip on the poupoint: I built the lining on the man's body first,
then (while he was wearing it), I laid cotton padding over the lining to
smooth out and build up the chest. (The man was a little lopsided in
build, and he wanted me to even him out. Usually I hear that from women!)
I laid on a level of interlining over the padding, tacked the layers down,
then upholstered the outer fabric over all the padding. The finished piece
fit perfectly smoothly. If I had quilted the fabric while it was flat and
then pieced it together, I would have ended up with a lot of internal
wrinkles and lumps, I think.

Also: Shape the underarm piece of the sleeve very close against the man's
underarm, so he can lift his arm up fairly high without hindrance.

I've forgotten the rest. It was three years ago, and I haven't made any
since. This particular one is probably still walking around the Milwaukee
area, though; I made it for a person to wear in the SCA.

- --Robin, who should be working and not reading h-cost


--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 19:00:29 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: 1870's child clothes question
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 09:59:02 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


 >I have had a lot of difficulty finding magazines from the 1870s.
>The 1880s seem to be a little easier to find.

Search abebooks.com for 19th c. original magazines.  They're a bit rich for
my blood.

Cut you a deal:  I have 30+ original patterns from the "Journal Des
Demoiselles", 4-6 per sheet (1864-1913). You buy (rent/borrow) the mags,
color xerox the pictures, include text. I'll copy the pattern & translate
the french.  Then we gotta great trade!
To the original poster: Harper's Bazaar has some nice upper middle class
outfits pictured. No patts. (Dover reprint.)

http://dogbert.abebooks.com/abe/BooksBrowse

Listing from the site:

   4. Journal Des Demoiselles/ 46ème Année Paris: Au Bureau Du Journal, Rue
Drouot, 1878 4to - over 9¾" - 12" tall.
15 Planches sur acier en couleurs. Percaline d'éditeur rouge. Book # 87 FFr
750.00 (approx. 118.04 American Dollars)
Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information about purchasing this
book.



   5. Journal Des Demoiselles/ 51ème Année Paris: Au Bureau Du Journal, Rue
Drouot, 1883 4to - over 9¾" - 12" tall.
16 Planches sur acier en couleurs. Percaline d'éditeur rouge. Book # 88 FFr
800.00 (approx. 125.90 American Dollars)
Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information about purchasing this
book.



   6. Journal Des Demoiselles/ 50ème Année Paris: Au Bureau Du Journal, Rue
Drouot, 1882 4to - over 9¾" - 12" tall.
11 Planches sur acier en couleurs. Percaline d'éditeur rouge. Book # 89 FFr
550.00 (approx. 86.56 American Dollars)
Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information about purchasing this
book.



   7. Journal Des Demoiselles/ 44ème Année Paris: Au Bureau Du Journal, Rue
Drouot, 1876 4to - over 9¾" - 12" tall.
13 Planches sur acier en couleurs. Percaline d'éditeur rouge. Book # 90 FFr
650.00 (approx. 102.30 American Dollars)
Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information about purchasing this
book.



   8. Journal Des Demoiselles/ 43ème Année Paris: Au Bureau Du Journal, Rue
Drouot, 1875 4to - over 9¾" - 12" tall.
11 Planches sur acier en couleurs. Percaline d'éditeur rouge. Book # 91 FFr
550.00 (approx. 86.56 American Dollars)
Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information about purchasing this
book.



   9. Journal Des Demoiselles/ 48ème Année Paris: Au Bureau Du Journal, Rue
Drouot, 1880 4to - over 9¾" - 12" tall.
15 Planches sur acier en couleurs. Percaline d'éditeur rouge. Book # 92 FFr
750.00 (approx. 118.04 American Dollars)
Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information about purchasing this
book.



   10. Journal Des Demoiselles/ 41ème Année Paris: Au Bureau Du Journal, Rue
Drouot, 1873 4to - over 9¾" - 12" tall.
11 Planches sur acier en couleurs. Percaline d'éditeur rouge. Book # 93 FFr
550.00 (approx. 86.56 American Dollars)
Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information about purchasing this
book.



   11. Journal Des Demoiselles/ 52ème Année Paris: Au Bureau Du Journal, Rue
Drouot, 1884 4to - over 9¾" - 12" tall.
16 Planches sur acier en couleurs. Percaline d'éditeur rouge. Book # 94 FFr
800.00 (approx. 125.90 American Dollars)
Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information about purchasing this
book.



   12. Journal Des Demoiselles/ 47ème Année Paris: Au Bureau Du Journal, Rue
Drouot, 1879 4to - over 9¾" - 12" tall.
15 Planches sur acier en couleurs. Percaline d'éditeur rouge. Book # 95 FFr
750.00 (approx. 118.04 American Dollars)
Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information about purchasing this
book.



   13. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1878 48 planches en
couleurs sur 52. Book # 12 FFr 4800.00
(approx. 755.42 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more
information about purchasing this book.



   14. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1879 35 planches en
couleurs sur 52. Book # 13 FFr 3500.00
(approx. 550.83 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more
information about purchasing this book.



   15. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1880 30 planches en
couleurs sur 52. Book # 14 FFr 3000.00
(approx. 472.14 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more
information about purchasing this book.



   16. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1877 48 planches en
couleurs sur 52. Book # 15 FFr 4800.00
(approx. 755.42 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more
information about purchasing this book.



   17. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1883 48 planches en
couleurs sur 52. Book # 16 FFr 4800.00
(approx. 755.42 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more
information about purchasing this book.



   18. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1882 44 planches en
couleurs sur 52. Book # 17 FFr 4400.00
(approx. 692.47 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more
information about purchasing this book.



   19. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1876 49 planches en
couleurs sur 52. Book # 18 FFr 4900.00
(approx. 771.16 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more
information about purchasing this book.



   20. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1881 45 planches en
couleurs sur 52. Book # 19 FFr 4500.00
(approx. 708.21 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more
information about purchasing this book.



   21. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1885 51 planches en
couleurs sur 52. Book # 20 FFr 5100.00
(approx. 802.64 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more
information about purchasing this book.



   22. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1884 47 planches en
couleurs sur 52. Book # 21 FFr 4700.00
(approx. 739.69 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more
information about purchasing this book.



   23. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1887 52 planches en
couleurs. Book # 22 FFr 5200.00 (approx.
818.38 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information
about purchasing this book.



   24. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1886 52 planches en
couleurs. Book # 23 FFr 5200.00 (approx.
818.38 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information
about purchasing this book.



   25. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1888 53 planches en
couleurs. 2 planches légèrement abimées.
Book # 24 FFr 5300.00 (approx. 834.11 American Dollars) Please contact
Pingel Olivier for more information about
purchasing this book.



   26. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1889 49 planches en
couleurs sur 52. Book # 25 FFr 4900.00
(approx. 771.16 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more
information about purchasing this book.



   27. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1891 52 planches en
couleurs. Book # 26 FFr 5200.00 (approx.
818.38 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information
about purchasing this book.



   28. La Mode Illustrée Paris: Librairie Firmin-Didot, 1890 52 planches en
couleurs. Book # 27 FFr 5200.00 (approx.
818.38 American Dollars) Please contact Pingel Olivier for more information
about purchasing this book.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

 _________________________________________________________________
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: counter argument:on NOT going into business
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 09:06:05 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


>Keep records. If this is a business, all your expenses are tax deductible.
If you have a room in your house completely devoted to the business, you
can deduct a portion of your utilities and property taxes as a business
expense. Major items may need to be depreciated over several tax years.

OTOH, *not* going into biz means you can continue to deduct the cost of
relevant costumes, classes, travel food & hotel for overnite events,
books(!) and supplies if you itemize. Durable goods (including the expensive
sewing machine) are under slightly different rules. I've been deducting 1-3K
off the "top" for 8 years now. (I consider this a 28% discount on fabric,
books. Add that to the typical musuem volunteer's 10-15% discount and you
really have a racket.)  Caveat: you *must* be a member of a IRS 501c(3) or
similarly setup non-profit. The uniforms (costumes) must be required for you
to properly perform your voluntary efforts. Some examples: costumed docent
at a Calif State Historical Park, performing member of a historical dance
troupe.

Should you go into biz, you will lose many of these advantages. You will
however exchange one deduction on books (as a volunteer) for a deduction as
a cost of doing biz.

>If you have a room in your house completely devoted to the business, you
can deduct a portion of your utilities and property taxes as a business
expense.

True, however, you must itemize *and* own the property.

>I'm not a lawyer or accountant, these are just some suggestions based on my
experience.

Ditto what she said... plus all my info is USA/Calif oriented.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 20:27:21 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 18:35:36 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: H-COST: ancient plaids
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

StrangeGirl wrote:
> 
> There is a fragment of a sleeve, dug up in London, that dateds form
> the 14thc. It is a brownish plaid now, but was apparently blue and
> white at the time it was new. Correct me if I'm wrong about the
> colours, I'm packing to move and don't want to dig it out...

If this is about how old plaids (American usage) are,
the Celts wore (invented?) them, no? Twill-woven plaid wool
textiles about 3000 (?) yrs old have been found in the Hallstadt
salt mines and with the mummies of Urumchi.

Susan F.

-- 
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 21:00:20 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: BBC America?/Re: H-COST: 1900's House TV programme (UK)
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 19:11:10 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>


Any chance for this to be picked up by BBC America?

Lonna

>From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: 1900's House TV programme (UK)
>Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 18:22:14 +0000 (GMT)
>
>
>-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>
>
> > Ooh, this sounds like such fun!  My family would have volunteered in a
> > heartbeat!  =)  Is it airing only in England?
>
> > Fascinating program, Teddy. Any chance we get to see it in US?
>
>As far as I know it's only in the UK at present.... It's on Channel 4.
>I heard about it because the office next door helped with it -
>Museum of Domestic Design and Architecture and Silver Studio
>collection (contemporary to the William Morris Studio and now run
>as part of the University where I work)
>
>Some of our UK programmes make it out to the US though...
>
>Teddy
>(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
>air and darkness, apparently!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 21:07:01 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 22:20:03 -0400
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>


 >I have had a lot of difficulty finding magazines from the 1870s.
>The 1880s seem to be a little easier to find.

Sorry, haven't been watching this thread...not a strong interest to me
and lask of time...so I don't know who was asking, but...

I seem to remember reading a number of magazines from that period on
microfilm at the University of Maryland's McKeldin library whn I was
there in the mid '80s (well mostly...)

Check with a university near you (if there is one) to see if what you're
looking for might be there.

Good Luck!
-Elisabeth
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 19:39:42 -0700
Subject: Re: BBC America?/Re: H-COST: 1900's House TV programme (UK)
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I checked their schedule and it doesn't show up on it.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: BBC America?/Re: H-COST: 1900's House TV programme (UK)
>Date: Fri, Sep 24, 1999, 7:11 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
>
>
>Any chance for this to be picked up by BBC America?
>
>Lonna
>
>>From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>>To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
>>Subject: Re: H-COST: 1900's House TV programme (UK)
>>Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 18:22:14 +0000 (GMT)
>>
>>
>>-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>>
>>
>> > Ooh, this sounds like such fun!  My family would have volunteered in a
>> > heartbeat!  =)  Is it airing only in England?
>>
>> > Fascinating program, Teddy. Any chance we get to see it in US?
>>
>>As far as I know it's only in the UK at present.... It's on Channel 4.
>>I heard about it because the office next door helped with it -
>>Museum of Domestic Design and Architecture and Silver Studio
>>collection (contemporary to the William Morris Studio and now run
>>as part of the University where I work)
>>
>>Some of our UK programmes make it out to the US though...
>>
>>Teddy
>>(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
>>air and darkness, apparently!)
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 22:16:01 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: organ pipe pleats-- from the confused
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 20:35:24 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>Are you cartridge pleating it on by taking a few stitches at the top of
each
>arc?  Doesn't the weight of the skirt pull it down so it is no longer an
arc
>but a point?
>
>Sorry to be so dumb.  Is there a book or a webpage somewhere with diagrams
>that I can look at?  I've seen the directions in _The Art of Manipulating
>Fabric_ and what they describe is something totally different.
>
>Tara


Tara,
  Don't feel dumb.  I didn't get cartridge pleating until my mom took out
scraps of fabric and literally showed me.
  However, if you don't have someone to show you, there is a great
demonstrative drawing on page 67 of JA's Patterns of Fashion.
Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Raglan sleeves
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 20:39:48 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>




I was impressed by the clarity of the straight pin used  to attach her
sleeve. It is a beautiful portrait.
Michelle
>-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
>
>  Wow - all that AND the infamous Air-Filter Hat....
>  But it looks like a raglan sleeve to me too....
>
>  Liadain
>
>> I *knew* I'd seen one recently.... But I can't remember who was
>> asking about it.
>> Whoever you are, take a look at this....
>>
>> http://152.19.254.81/wm/paint/auth/weyden/magdalen.jpg
>>
>> Of course, this is the point where someone points out that raglan
>> sleeves aren't what I think they are...<g>
>>
>>
>>
>> Teddy
>> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
>> air and darkness, apparently!)
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Subject: Re: H-COST: French 1520's dress
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

> I have looked some and have come up pretty empty on
>artwork for women's French clothing in the 1520's. So if someone out
>there can help me find some artwork that would be appropriate I would
>appreciate it.

This month's Medieval Women's Calendar has some nice ones...

Julie Adams


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: skirt guards
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
>
>I've just begun to make my first German Ren, but am still in the planning
>the pattern stage.  What I have is 6yrd of lavendar/greyish heavy linen and
>would like to use black cotton velveteen for the guards.  I've done guards
>at the neckline before, but never on a skirt.  I have two questions.  A)
>will the velvet make the linen skirt drap differently

Yes. It should look nice, but the curves will flow larger. I like the look
of a weighted hem.

 B) should the
>guards be applied to the skirt pieces, then the skirt sewn together or
>should the skirt be sewn together and then the guards sewn to the finished
>skirt?

I think it is easier and looks better if the guards are applied after
sewing the skirt pieces. Up to about 6" guards, I usually cut on a bias and
iron into the curve on a gored skirt. I cut wider guards on the round or if
my guards are for bases (because the arc is too tight for a good iron'ed
curve for most fabrics I find...)

Julie Adams


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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 19:21:18 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: organ pipe pleats-- from the confused
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>>Yes, for each pleat, the skirt is folded on the pleat line, good
>>sides together. A seam is sewn from the waist to the hem.
>
>How far from the fold are you stitching?  Is this where the 3/4" comes in?

1/4" along each fold, 1/4" x 2 folded = 1/2". The extra 1/4" over allows
for some ease and curve in the top of the pleat.

>>(this must be done after lining, banding, decorations, and finishing
>>is completed)
>
>So the top edge is not a raw edge, but is finished with the lining, right?

Yes.

>>from a Sideways perspective, looking down on the top of the skirt
>>after pinching it should look kind of like this:
>
>>(
>>(
>>(
>>(
>>(
>>(
>
>>But each curve has a little seam where they touch edges.
>
>This means that each tube isn't actually closed all the way around?  If not,
>that's why I'm so confused.

No. Each pleat is just an arc.

>>It pinches the fabric into an arc on the outside
>
>Are you cartridge pleating it on by taking a few stitches at the top of each
>arc?  Doesn't the weight of the skirt pull it down so it is no longer an arc
>but a point?

I sew it along most of the arc. I use the stab stitch like cartridge
pleating, but sew along the entire top of the pleat.

>Sorry to be so dumb.  Is there a book or a webpage somewhere with diagrams
>that I can look at?

Not that I know of. I keep meaning to finish a pamphlet on it I started,
but need to do a photo session as I make a real garment.

Julie


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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 18:57:25 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1870's child clothes question
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>Can any of you suggest some good sources for details of how a
>small girl (in the 6 -10 age group) would have been dressed in the
>early 1870's.  Preferably middle/upper-middle class household?

I think there are examples in Harper's Bizarre. I've seen repro paper dolls
that show good detail too.

Julie Adams



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Sep 24 23:04:18 1999
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From: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: organ pipe pleats-- from the confused
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 04:17:20 GMT
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-Poster: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>

>Don't feel dumb.  I didn't get cartridge pleating until my mom took out
>scraps of fabric and literally showed me.
>However, if you don't have someone to show you, there is a great
>demonstrative drawing on page 67 of JA's Patterns of Fashion.

Actually, I do very creditable cartridge pleats.  It's these organ pipes 
that I just don't get.  *sigh*

Tara


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Subject: Re: H-COST: organ pipe pleats-- from the confused
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-Poster: "Tara German" <twink88@hotmail.com>

Julie,
	Thanks for answering those questions.  I think I've got it now!

Tara

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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 23:36:53 -0500
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Subject: Re: H-COST: skirt guards
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>


>>I've just begun to make my first German Ren, but am still in the planning
>>the pattern stage.  What I have is 6yrd of lavendar/greyish heavy linen and
>>would like to use black cotton velveteen for the guards.<...>
>>will the velvet make the linen skirt drape differently
<...>
>I think it is easier and looks better if the guards are applied after
>sewing the skirt pieces. Up to about 6" guards, I usually cut on a bias and
>iron into the curve on a gored skirt. I cut wider guards on the round or if
>my guards are for bases (because the arc is too tight for a good iron'ed
>curve for most fabrics I find...)

I agree that this is easier and prettier, but if the skirt panels are cut
on a curve, beware of the linen stretching along the seams, which will be
somewhat on the bias.  Guards of a heavier fabric (like velveteen) will
make it stretch more than it would otherwise.  The danger is that you will
get a dip in the hemline wherever there is bias.  One solution is to pin or
baste the hem guard on and then pin the skirt to a hanger so that the
entire waistline is pinned to the straight wire at the bottom of the hanger
(not sagging in the middle) and then let it hang for several days.  Measure
from waist to hem and move the guards up in any places where it has sagged.

Good luck!
Melanie


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Charles de Blois Pourpoint pattern
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Fri, 24 Sep 1999, Cynthia Barnes wrote:

> What's a "grande assiette"? Yeah, I got "big plate", but what does this term
> mean in a tailoring context? I'm guessing it's the size of the armhole.  Is
> this a modern or contemp term?

That's what the costume books have tended to call that sleeve construction
in which the armholes are scooped deeply into the back and somewhat deeply
into the front. I have no idea if it's a modern term or a medieval one! 
Good question. I wouldn't be surprised to hear the term was invented by
some French costume historian a century or two ago. 

> The CdBlois pourpoint is always shown on the stand.  How much batt or
> domette? How much is the stand the padding and the p'point.  Are you just
> smoothing muscle line & body hollows as per interfacing in modern tailoring
> or are you reshaping the body more extremely?  I've envisioned maybe 1 layer
> of "warm & natural" batt or even lighter, like domette.  Possibly 2-3
> tapered layers to fill in the hollow of the pecs & shoulder.

I haven't examined the pourpoint directly, so I can't speak for it. The
pattern drawing in Payne will give you a sense of the extremities of the
measurements, though -- how much difference between chest and waist, front
and back. 

As for the padding, I think a lot depends on the look you want and the
build of the man. I'm not a quilter so I don't know the different terms
you use. I would have liked to have tried using cotton "wool," but I
figured puffy cotton batting was close enough, and easy to handle. I used
between one and three layers, varying according to the bulges on my model.
He didn't want the really poufed-out pouter-pigeon look, so I kept it
pretty close to his natural shape. I could easily have done more.
Remember, though, I only made the one. I'd have to do a dozen or so before
I could give you generalities. 

> What I'm really questioning is whether that dancing stance is just a body
> stance, artistic license or whether it's 1"+ of padding to form that
> "peacock" chest. Likely, y'all are going to say it's some of each.

I think some of it is stance, some of it is padding, and very little is
artistic license. Though artists might tend to exaggerate the fashionable
look, they wouldn't make it up entirely. 

FWIW, the person I made this for was a blacksmith. Small guy, huge arm and
back muscles. And more muscles on one side -- which is why I had to pad
for balance. 

> >found I had to keep cutting in to give him free arm movement that wouldn't
> rip the back open. This is easier to show in person, I think!  ... This
> particular one is probably still walking around the Milwaukee area, though
> 
> Rats. I'd love to see it up close.  You dont end up in Northern CA much, by
> any chance, do you?  Actually, your descriptions make plenty of sense,
> perhaps because I tailor and fashion close fitting bodices in the 19th &
> 20th c modes.

I'm glad I'm making sense -- I have never been able to write this up to my
satisfaction, and I worry because there is so much I *haven't* explained
here. I think I forget a lot of the details till I'm actually in the
middle of making the dress. (And I haven't made many of these in the last
few years -- I've been busy with other projects.) Sorry, but I am very far
from California, and I don't know if any of my dresses have made it that
far west ;-) 

--Robin, who has been posting too much this week

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 00:21:22 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 22:33:40 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 11:38 AM 22/09/99 -0700, you wrote:

>> >If I were to suggest any of this to my daughter
>> now, she'd have me 
>> >institutionalized.
>> 
>
>I recently suggested to my sister that a great place
>to get cheap clothes that can make really cool outfits
>or be modified without fear of "messing up something
>expensive" was the Goodwill... I was then promptly
>told that I am "so uncool" and how long had it been
>since I was in high school?  *sigh*  I guess I am no
>longer with the "in" crowd.

*grin*
I'm 20, and my favorite places to shop are the thrift stores. I've got a
fabulous, floor-length black bias-cut poly skirt that was $5. It's
wonderful as it is, wash & dry :] and I'm using it to make another skirt as
soon as I find some (cheap!) fabric that drapes right.. And I also found a
huge skirt in charcoal lambs wool... I'm making a partlet for me german ren
out of this, and lining it with some linen I have left over from
something.. and I'm looking for a great pair of curtains!

So not everyone thinks it's un-cool.... when you're a student paying your
own way, you do anything to get some real nice clothes for next to nothing :D

Kris

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: skirt guards
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 08:04:08 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>


>
> I agree that this is easier and prettier, but if the skirt panels are cut
> on a curve, beware of the linen stretching along the seams, which will be
> somewhat on the bias.  Guards of a heavier fabric (like velveteen) will
> make it stretch more than it would otherwise.  The danger is that you will
> get a dip in the hemline wherever there is bias.

If I use a rectangular shaped skirt, would that avoid the stretching?
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 08:16:14 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re. Recycling
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 09:37:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

In many poorer countries, stuff is recycled at home and
among friends, just as it was in America up until the 50's
when household consumption started going over the top.  It
is also collected by entrepreneurs like "rag men" and metal
collectors who make  their livelihood from recycling.

In Mexico, many highways have reflectors along side at
roughly 4 foot intervals just like here in the US.  Except
in Mexico, one way they did this was to dump a little pile
of gravel about 30" high every 4 feet and then stick a
recycled aluminum soft drink can into the gravel so that the
silver bottom of the can acted as a reflector.  This pattern
went along the roadside for miles.

When I was in Turkey last Fall, a delicious snack was
"simits" purchased from street vendors.  It was sort of a
bagel totally encrusted with sesame seeds and oil and baked
until the sesame seed were brown and full of flavor.  The
vendor would take a piece of paper in his hand to protect
the food, pick it up, and then hand it to you with the paper
around it.  The paper was invariably recycled 1) graded
kids' homework or 2) individual sheets of computer printout.
It was fun to read the kids' essays and review profit and
loss for local businesses!

Hope H. Dunlap


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Penny Ladnier
> Sent: Thursday, September 23, 1999 8:09 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Re. Recycling
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier"
<penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> in the UK at least, bins for recycling glass, paper,
plastic
> etc.  have
> appeared in every supermarket car park in recent years.
>
> Sorry for getting off topic but I am curious...
> I am trying to find out how other countries recyle?  Our
> government (state
> or local???) hired a company that comes to our home on
> garbage day and picks
> up the recyled glass and paper that is in a separate bin.
> There is not a
> charge for this service.  Is this type of service
available in other
> countries?
>
> Later... Penny
> http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
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>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 08:16:15 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

When I fit someone for one of these close-fitting dresses I have them
wear their favorite bra under their chemise or underdress... that way,
once the gown is finished, they don't have to wear one but have almost
the exact support.  I've been as big as an H cup while nursing and am
normally DD and have never had a problem with drooping or bouncing in
one of these dresses.  I've done both front lace and side laced
versions.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 09:28:16 1999
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>> I agree that this is easier and prettier, but if the skirt panels are cut
>> on a curve, beware of the linen stretching along the seams, which will be
>> somewhat on the bias.  Guards of a heavier fabric (like velveteen) will
>> make it stretch more than it would otherwise.  The danger is that you will
>> get a dip in the hemline wherever there is bias.
>
>If I use a rectangular shaped skirt, would that avoid the stretching?
>Andrea

[That is, all the pieces in the skirt are rectangular?]  Yes, because then
the whole skirt will be on the straight of grain, which is least likely to
stretch.  I'm not sure you can get the same shape this way--ask our German
Ren experts.  You'd have a lot more fullness to pleat in at the waist to
get the same fullness at the hem, and the flare might not be as graceful.

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 09:47:59 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 14th century Dress
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 11:08:35 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Maybe the dress was sewn to accommodate pregnancy, not
tubbiness.

Hope H. Dunlap
(who's presently "size 10" sister was 54 inches around prior
to twins)



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Marc Carlson
> Sent: Thursday, September 23, 1999 12:09 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
>
>
>
> -Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
> <"Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>>
> >...gown is the only authentic cut for a cotehardie.  I'm
> assuming they
> >are using this cut because although the garment it quite
> tight and very
> >fitted, it does have the same number of seams and gores.
>
> "The garment is quite tight and fitted"... Um, really?
>
> H-38's owner was a fairly small woman, based on her bones
(About
> 4'6"-4'8" with a waist size of 37" in circumference).
"Fitted" yes,
> but "tightly" fitted is a matter of opinion.
>
> H-41 (possibly a man) has a 39.4" circumference.
>
> Now we can argue about whether the Greenlanders at the end
of 14th
> century were starving or not, but I think we can be fairly
sure that
> "tubbiness" was not common (I speak as someone with a 42"
waist
> circumference).
>
> I think these outfits are supposed to be a bit on the
loose side, if
> for no other reason than insulation.  They just
have -really- large
> skirts.
>
> Marc
>
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>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 10:25:18 1999
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Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 10:38:58 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Raglan sleeves
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-Poster: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>

I'm not completely sure I'd count this as a raglan sleeve.
It's a raglan style  bodice strap -- but bodice straps
frequently are cut separately from the main bodice
(at least in my period, 1770's).   The sleeve itself
is still non-raglan,  since it has a set-in-sleeve
style of attachment.

I wouldn't really call it a true raglan unless I found
the raglan seam (which this has)   and also the
one-piece sleeve which forms part of the neckline
and covers the shoulder.   With no seam at the
point of the shoulder.

Just my two cents.   But it *is*  a wonderful
painting!
Deb


>>> I *knew* I'd seen one recently.... But I can't remember who was
>>> asking about it.
>>> Whoever you are, take a look at this....
>>>
>>> http://152.19.254.81/wm/paint/auth/weyden/magdalen.jpg
>>>
>>> Of course, this is the point where someone points out that raglan
>>> sleeves aren't what I think they are...<g>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Teddy
>>> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
>>> air and darkness, apparently!)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 11:18:42 1999
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Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 11:38:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Sat, 25 Sep 1999, Kat & Kent wrote:

> When I fit someone for one of these close-fitting dresses I have them
> wear their favorite bra under their chemise or underdress... that way,
> once the gown is finished, they don't have to wear one but have almost
> the exact support.  I've been as big as an H cup while nursing and am
> normally DD and have never had a problem with drooping or bouncing in
> one of these dresses.  I've done both front lace and side laced
> versions.

I think I remember you're using a princess construction, right? I can see
how that might work with a bra, as the silhouette is compatible. For my
own work, though, I don't use either a princess line or a bra. I find that
both create a silhouette that is quite different from the one I'm trying
to achieve. The dress I make molds the breasts and positions them in a
very non-20th-century shape. The dress also serves as a foundation
garment, designed to create a specific shape. I wouldn't wear a bra under
a corset, or a corset under a fitted dress, and I wouldn't use any
combination of these items in fitting; they're all serving the same role
of shaping, and the shapes differ distinctly from one period to another.

Nice to hear of someone else out there who hit H cup while nursing. One of
my pet peeves was that nursing bras available in stores typically were
available no larger than DD. I *started* as a DD, and I know I'm not the
only one. What did they expect us all to do? I mail-ordered my nursing
bras. After two babies, even after losing all the weight, I'm still
disproportionate enough I cannot find a bra to fit, and I am ready to
start making my own corsetry at this point for daily wear. (Another
project for my to-do list...) 

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 11:18:43 1999
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 <v0300782db412001566e3@[209.207.57.200]>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: skirt guards
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>> I agree that this is easier and prettier, but if the skirt panels are cut
>> on a curve, beware of the linen stretching along the seams, which will be
>> somewhat on the bias.  Guards of a heavier fabric (like velveteen) will
>> make it stretch more than it would otherwise.  The danger is that you will
>> get a dip in the hemline wherever there is bias.

This can be true of any fabric. I hang all my circle cut/gored dresses
before hemming and finishing. The organ-piped skirts especially need
hanging and weighting...

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 11:31:55 1999
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Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 09:42:17 -0800
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Raglan sleeves
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>>>> http://152.19.254.81/wm/paint/auth/weyden/magdalen.jpg
>>>>
>>>> Of course, this is the point where someone points out that raglan
>>>> sleeves aren't what I think they are...<g>

It seems like we went through the raglan issue about a year ago. I remember
finding a number of examples of 14th c gowns that were raglan when I
stopped to look, and there were quite a lot of 15th c examples too.  I
started looking more in some of my "medieval women" calendars and notebooks
that have a lot of manuscript art and there were quite a few.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 11:39:09 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: French c. 1520
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 13:01:12 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>


It's not a female costume, but this portrait of King
Francois I of France by Jean Clouet is certainly a feast of
embroidery and fabric manipulation techniques which could be
transferred to a women's garments.
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/html/c/clouet/jean/

You might try doing a http://www.metacrawler.com search for
portraits of his wife:  Ctss Marie de ST. POL, b. ca. 1472,
m. 8 Sep 1487, d. 1546
and
Antoinette de Bourbon-Vendome, wife of Claude I of Lorraine,
who were married in 1513.
and
Louise de BOURBON, d. 1561, wife of Louis I de
BOURBON-MONPENSIER, b. 1473, d. 1520, who were married in
1505.

Hope H. Dunlap



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 11:39:10 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Muscovite Man
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 12:42:19 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>


Here's are some neat portraits  of Ivan the Terrible (lived
1530-1584)
http://www.lib.utexas.edu/Libs/PCL/portraits/ivan4.jpg

and his dad, Ivan the Great (lived 1440 - 1505)
http://www.lib.utexas.edu/Libs/PCL/portraits/ivan3.jpg

to get you started.

This Russian History chronology for years approximately
800-1650 has some excellent information and links.
http://www.departments.bucknell.edu/russian/chrono1.html


Julie Zetterberg's webpages have quite a few Russian links.
http://members.aol.com/nebula5/tcpinfo3.html#folk-EEurope,
not rich in your period, but a few things might be of use.

Hope H. Dunlap




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 14:44:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 15:54:19 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Question of "taste" - new thread
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-Poster: JEWeidman@aol.com

I have often pondered this thought and have come up with no answers - I
present the theory to the most knowledgeable group I can reach and invite
discussion:

When we study primary and secondary resources, especially examining
paintings, sculptures, tapestries, etc.; how do we know these garments were
attractive and fashionable and not simply an example of monumentally bad
taste on the part of that individual? If I am copying or modeling a
garment, I want to copy an elegant example of the period, not one that
would have raised eyebrows. 
Example: I see a painting (assume the pigments represent the true colors) in 
which a woman is wearing 3 or 4 really horrendously ugly colors together, or 
a truly unflattering style. How do I know that this combination is an example 
of the prevailing taste? What if it is just that woman's really bad fashion 
sense and I am assuming her bad taste is a great example of a whole era! 
Think of "The Heiress" (remade as "Washington Square") in which the title
character, although rich, dresses in expensive clothes with no style or grace.
Do we depend on our "feel" of the era in which we specialize, combined with
our (one hopes) innate good taste?
Is there a Mr. Blackwell for the ages?
Jane Weidman
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 16:52:02 1999
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Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 17:02:25 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> I think I remember you're using a princess construction, right? I can
> see how that might work with a bra, as the silhouette is compatible.
> For my own work, though, I don't use either a princess line or a bra.
> I find that both create a silhouette that is quite different from the
> one I'm trying to achieve. The dress I make molds the breasts and
> positions them in a very non-20th-century shape. The dress also serves
> as a foundation garment, designed to create a specific shape. I
> wouldn't wear a bra under a corset, or a corset under a fitted dress,
> and I wouldn't use any combination of these items in fitting; they're
> all serving the same role of shaping, and the shapes differ distinctly
> from one period to another.

I think it depends on the bra as to whether it provides the right
silhouette or not.  I do use the princess line style... but I fit them
over a bra so I can convince whoever is wearing them to wear them
*without* one because they are supportive enough for many women to feel
comfortable in them.  For myself, I try on all my bras before doing a
new fitting and then throw a tight t-shirt over each so I can see what
line they create... they're all slightly different.
 
> Nice to hear of someone else out there who hit H cup while nursing.
> One of my pet peeves was that nursing bras available in stores
> typically were available no larger than DD. I *started* as a DD, and I
> know I'm not the only one. What did they expect us all to do? I
> mail-ordered my nursing bras. After two babies, even after losing all
> the weight, I'm still disproportionate enough I cannot find a bra to
> fit, and I am ready to start making my own corsetry at this point for
> daily wear. (Another project for my to-do list...)

I was fortunate... up through G cup they carried a front opening nursing
bra at my local Motherhood store (had to order the H but...) which I
found tends to work better for larger busted mothers.  After 2-1/2 years
of nursing it took about 6 months before I was back in my regular bras,
still with only a half cup discrepancy between sides.

Kat
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Question of "taste" - new thread
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

There is no substitute for *research*.  To depend on one source only without
supporting evidence can only lead to trouble.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: JEWeidman@aol.com
>To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Question of "taste" - new thread
>Date: Sat, Sep 25, 1999, 12:54 PM
>

>
>-Poster: JEWeidman@aol.com
>
>I have often pondered this thought and have come up with no answers - I
>present the theory to the most knowledgeable group I can reach and invite
>discussion:
>
>When we study primary and secondary resources, especially examining
>paintings, sculptures, tapestries, etc.; how do we know these garments were
>attractive and fashionable and not simply an example of monumentally bad
>taste on the part of that individual? If I am copying or modeling a
>garment, I want to copy an elegant example of the period, not one that
>would have raised eyebrows. 
>Example: I see a painting (assume the pigments represent the true colors)
in 
>which a woman is wearing 3 or 4 really horrendously ugly colors together,
or 
>a truly unflattering style. How do I know that this combination is an
example 
>of the prevailing taste? What if it is just that woman's really bad fashion

>sense and I am assuming her bad taste is a great example of a whole era! 
>Think of "The Heiress" (remade as "Washington Square") in which the title
>character, although rich, dresses in expensive clothes with no style or
grace.
>Do we depend on our "feel" of the era in which we specialize, combined with
>our (one hopes) innate good taste?
>Is there a Mr. Blackwell for the ages?
>Jane Weidman
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 18:23:52 1999
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Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 19:37:45 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Snoods
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-Poster: Elysant@aol.com

-Poster: <Elysant@aol.com>

I've been really impressed with how much people on this list know about the 
14th century dress that I'd asked about last week.  Again thanks everyone for 
the information. :-)

I have another question :-)

What periods are appropriate for snoods?  I've been wearing a veil with my 
11th century garb, and really didn't want to go to elaborate hats or the like 
with the 14th century costume I'm embarking on.  Would a black snood (net 
with gold) be appropriate?   Or a chrocheted one?  Would I attach it to a 
hairband?  or how would it be anchored on my head if so?  Also - outside of 
the 14th century - what other periods are snoods appropriate head gear for?  
I've seen people wear them with all sorts of garb from different periods here 
is the SCA.

Elysant
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 18:40:45 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Question of "taste" - new thread
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

>
>
> When we study primary and secondary resources, especially examining
> paintings, sculptures, tapestries, etc.; how do we know these garments were
> attractive and fashionable and not simply an example of monumentally bad
> taste on the part of that individual? If I am copying or modeling a
> garment, I want to copy an elegant example of the period, not one that
> would have raised eyebrows.

I think that the only way to determine what people really would have worn in a
given period is to look at as many sources and examples as possible.  Including
actual garments (if available), paintings, sculptures, advice on what to wear,
critical comments (in letters, etc.) on what individuals wore, and literary
examples.  In any period there is a range--some people dressed in what was
considered "good taste" at the time, and some did not.  Also, in any period some
people would have been wearing styles and colors that you personally would find
flattering, and some you would not.  After you look at enough examples you get a
"sense" of the range of what was worn and whether a project you are planning fits
into it.

While I think it's important to recognise that ideals of beauty differed in other
periods and to be broad-minded regarding them, I don't think it's necessary to
wear period style clothes you don't like.  (Unless you just don't like any
clothing of that period, or just don't like anything other than modern clothes,
which I'd assume is not the case for members of a historic costuming list.)  For
example--in the mid 1880s the fashionable silhouette included a very large
bustle.  I actually find them quite flattering.  But some people don't like that
silhouette now. And some didn't like it in the 1880s, either.  Instead they wore
"aesthetic dress" or "rational dress."  Wearers of aesthetic dress also preferred
muted colors, instead of fashionably bright aniline dyes. They  thought mainstream
fashion was in bad taste, and fashion writers thought aesthetic dress was in bad
taste.  So, there's no reason why you should not wear whichever you prefer to
represent the period.

>
> Think of "The Heiress" (remade as "Washington Square") in which the title
> character, although rich, dresses in expensive clothes with no style or grace.
> Do we depend on our "feel" of the era in which we specialize, combined with
> our (one hopes) innate good taste?
> I

I haven't seen "The Heiress" but I have read "Washington Square."  The whole point
of the book is the way Catherine (the heroine's) domineering father thwarts her
chances for marriage.  Her clothes are part of this and it is explicitly mentioned
in the book.  The custom of the period was that a girl's mother ushered her into
fashionable life, choosing the proper clothes and steering her toward an
appropriate marriage.  If the mother has died (as Catherine's has) a female
relative or close family friend assumed the mother's role as much as possible.
Catherine has an aunt who is anxious to do this, but her father will not allow
it.  Custom also dictated that a young unmarried girl dress like one; but
Catherine chooses rich satins that, her aunt complains, make her look like "a
woman of thirty."  In fact, in the book, after her father chases away the one
(fortune-hunting) suitor of her youth, her only other (rejected) offers of
marriage are when she is about thirty, when her appearance harmonizes with her
dress.

Anyway, if you dress tastelessly by the standards of the period in question, but
people did actually dress that way, you're still historically authentic if that's
any comfort.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 19:03:09 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Snoods
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 20:18:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

>What periods are appropriate for snoods?  I've been wearing a veil with my
>11th century garb, and really didn't want to go to elaborate hats or the
like
>with the 14th century costume I'm embarking on.

What we in the 20th century call "snoods" (the word originally meant a sort
of hair ribbon used in Highland dress) have more or less been found in digs
from the 13th century on.  So, while it probably wouldn't work for the 11th
century garb, it certainly would with the fourteenth century stuff..

In the 13th century, there are ample pictures in illumination and the like
of folks wearing hairnets, usually with a barbette (strip of fabric going
round the head and under the chin) or coif, along with a fillet (sort of
like a "crown" made out of linen). In the fourteenth century, the nets may
have gotten a little more weighty (possibly made out of metal), and the
hairstyles and such underneath became more complicated (for a decent example
of this, look at the princess in _Braveheart_ (they didn't do a bad job with
the women's headgear).  They can be imitated using fake hair.

Hairnets seem to be popular again in the 16th century, usually worn with a
hat of some sort.

> Would a black snood (net  with gold) be appropriate?   Or a chrocheted
one?

While crochet was probably not used to make these hairnets (the technique of
netting--same kind of knot you'd use to make a string bag or hammock, just
smaller, was what the surviving examples use), it's a popular substitute
(although netting is dead easy to learn, it's a little harder to find
instructions and the tools you need).  The finer the thread you use, the
closer you'll approximate the real thing.


Would I attach it to a
>hairband?  or how would it be anchored on my head if so?

Mine has a braided edge that the net is sewn to.  The braid allows enough
give for me to get it on, but then contracts enough to keep it there.  The
ones you buy commercially usually have either elastic or a drawstring.

Susan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 19:27:08 1999
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Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 20:38:22 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question of "taste" - new thread
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/25/1999 7:55:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lavolta@best.com writes:

<< For
 example--in the mid 1880s the fashionable silhouette included a very large
 bustle.  I actually find them quite flattering.  But some people don't like 
that
 silhouette now. >>

[Great reply BTW!]

I had a teacher in design school who did A Christmas Carol for the rep 
theatre associated with the school. He hated Empire so he just stuck the 
Fezywig [sp] scene in panniers!!!!!! [That makes Scrooge like 90 something]

Anyway....you can tell people like the Marquise de Pompadour had taste 
[probably influenced by Boucher] just by looking. We're told Marie-Antoinette 
had taste [better say so...she's Queen!] but I've seen some clunkers on her. 
So you see, now is just like back then...YOU decide. Besides....who cares 
whether they thought they were tasteful! They're dead!

Many people find a true rendering of a period aesthetic strange if not ugly. 
How many times I've heard people say "They're wearing curtains! She looks 
like a couch!". Sometimes these period quirks can be used by a designer. 
Remember Holly Hunter's hair in The Piano? Or the bright aniline ball gowns 
in Angels & Insects?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 19:32:00 1999
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Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 20:50:28 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Lavolta Press wrote:
> silhouette now. And some didn't like it in the 1880s, either.  Instead they wore
> "aesthetic dress" or "rational dress."

I've often been fascinated by the aestheic sorts, because I really like
the pre-Rafaelite stuff, and they were great enthusiasts of "sensible"
dress, gothic revival, individual creativity, and so forth.

But I've gotten the impression that there weren't that many people who
actually dressed in the aesthetic mode -- that it was way out on a
self-expressive limb, like early bohemian/hippie dress this century, or
the middle-american caucausian teenagers who do the vampire thing.

Then again, I've mostly read about it in large costume histories written
by "normal" people, so this view may be skewed.

wondering,
cv
--
The most outrageous lies that can be invented will find believers if a
person only tells them with all his might. --  Mark Twain
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question of "taste" - new thread
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>how do we know these garments were
>attractive and fashionable and not simply an example of monumentally bad
>taste on the part of that individual? If I am copying or modeling a
>garment, I want to copy an elegant example of the period, not one that
>would have raised eyebrows.

We look at the body of work available for that time period and if there is
a single example differing from others, then you don't copy that piece.  If
you want an elegant and fashionable example, you pick something that is not
unique.

Julie Adams


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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

>
>
> I've often been fascinated by the aestheic sorts, because I really like
> the pre-Rafaelite stuff, and they were great enthusiasts of "sensible"
> dress, gothic revival, individual creativity, and so forth.
>
> But I've gotten the impression that there weren't that many people who
> actually dressed in the aesthetic mode -- that it was way out on a
> self-expressive limb, like early bohemian/hippie dress this century, or
> the middle-american caucausian teenagers who do the vampire thing.

There were more and less extreme versions of it . . . there is some evidence aesthetic
dress was popular with middle-class women with small dress allowances who were not
necessarily very "bohemian"  in lifestyle.  The materials, jewelry, etc. were often
cheaper (simple strings of beads were preferred to diamonds).  The styles often
required less fabric which made them cheaper.  The  nonmainstream "historic" quality
of aesthetic dress made it easier to get away with outdated fabrics, colors, and
jewelry (in fashionable dress "good" jewlery was often reset and remodeled to suit
current taste).  Aesthetic dress was often more comfortable.  Also, the aesthetic
movement declared beautiful various physical qualities, such as red hair and square
chins, that were considered unattractive in mainstream fashion; a boon to women born
with these qualities.  In other words aesthetic dress had a number of solid practical
advantages to appeal to people whose lifestyles were not all that radical.

Also, I've never been an advocate of only dressing in the "most common" styles of a
period; aside from the difficulty of deciphering what these were in actual practice,
if a large group does this it tends to produce a cookie-cutter look.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 21:03:48 1999
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

I was thinking of making an attempt at the 4-panel dress Robin described,
and was contemplating wearing a sports bra for fitting- it's the one-piece
kind that flatten one's breasts against the chest wall, making "mounds".
It's supportive because the breasts are against the chest, not because of
any cantilevering.

Would using this for fitting be a bad idea? I was hoping it would give me a
plausible silhouette. I'm a D cup, if that affects anything.

Thanks!

-Amanda


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 21:32:23 1999
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Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 22:45:39 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Question of "taste" - new thread
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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

Hi Jane,

You wrote:
>Example: I see a painting (assume the pigments represent the true colors) in 
>which a woman is wearing 3 or 4 really horrendously ugly colors together,

I have a very good friend who works at the National Gallery, (in DC here) and 
she gave me a wonderful tour behind the scenes. One of the major projects 
that they are now doing is restoring the paintings from the early periods. 
And when years of varnish, are removed, those horrendous colors are actually 
beautiful vibrant, strong colors. So my suggestion is that you do not assume 
that paintings have the true colors associated with them. Rather use your own 
taste, and remember how dramatically the old varnishes and oils from the 
paintings discolor an otherwise beautiful garment. 

Susan K.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 21:32:27 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Bodice Fitting challenge
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I have just been presented with a formidable problem:  I have a friend who
would like a Ren Faire "wench" bodice.  She's a largish woman, maybe a size
20, except that she has very large breasts.  I believe she said a J cup.
They are (each) larger than her head, and not surprisingly hang to her
waistline.  

She would like something that holds them up somewhat, keeping them held in
place for comfort, without pushing them up to her chin.  I'm not sure where
to start patterning something like this.  Can anyone offer advice? 

Margo
Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 22:03:09 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Bosom buddies (sorta OT)
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings--

I've heard several mentions here lately of large cup sizes (things like H
and J;  I think the highest I'd ever heard of before was E).  Simple, nosey
question:  Who makes bras for these sizes?  Is it mailorder only, or can you
find things in some stores?

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 22:12:05 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Bodice Fitting challenge
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-Poster: DzMzLzy@aol.com

Margo - I've fitted a person with a similar figure.

Best way I've found (and I've taught classes on it) is to make a mockup out 
of a heavy non-stretchy material. I've used corset coutil.  Put the mockup on 
the person while they are wearing a good bra, safety-pin the front closed and 
then pull the seams and used safety pins to hold the new placements.  Keep 
tightening until you get the effect you want.  Be warned though, this isn't 
easy, but once you get the bodice tight enough you can mark new seam lines 
where the pins are and rework the pattern into one that will give the right 
fit.

My second suggestion is to use at least 3 1/2 wide stays on each side.  My 
preferred placement is one on either side of where you are grommeting, or 
putting lacing hole and one more on an approximately 30 degree angle heading 
for the armhole, but stopping just past the curve of the bust.  If you have 
more questions, let me know and I'd do my best to clarify the instructions.

Liz Gerds





margo@directcon.net writes:

> 
>  I have just been presented with a formidable problem:  I have a friend who
>  would like a Ren Faire "wench" bodice.  She's a largish woman, maybe a size
>  20, except that she has very large breasts.  I believe she said a J cup.
>  They are (each) larger than her head, and not surprisingly hang to her
>  waistline.  
>  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 23:20:55 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000001bf075b$513f8940$520bfdd0@sharp-9070->
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 00:29:15 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

This fits right into the recycling category and bringing this back to
costume...  tonight I went to a wearable arts fashion show.  One of the
categories was recycled.  Costumes were made out of: records (33 RPH),
corks,  chicken wire, shower curtains, magazine covers (it was rather
pretty), xrays, hot dogs and buns, you name it is was used.  The winner of
the category is going to be displayed at the opening of the Valentine
Museum's exhibit on recycled fashions opening in March.  So do you want to
know what costume won the category ... a dress made out of dum-dum (sucker)
wrappers.  Yes, I got pictures of all the costumes and they will be on the
Ball Thursday.

Tomorrow, I will be off to photograph 1893 days at Maymont Park.  They used
to call this event Victorian days.  The day will start at 1:00 with a
Victorian carriage parade down Monument Ave.  The carriages will be
decorated with flowers.  For those in the Richmond, VA area... There will
also be a Victorian tea at the park, plus other period events going on.

Good night... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Sep 25 23:50:38 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 00:10:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
In-Reply-To: <v04003a00b41310474eaf@[209.244.231.47]>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>

On Sat, 25 Sep 1999 sustre@pixelations.com wrote:

> I was thinking of making an attempt at the 4-panel dress Robin described,
> and was contemplating wearing a sports bra for fitting- it's the one-piece
> kind that flatten one's breasts against the chest wall, making "mounds".
> It's supportive because the breasts are against the chest, not because of
> any cantilevering.
> 
> Would using this for fitting be a bad idea? I was hoping it would give me a
> plausible silhouette. I'm a D cup, if that affects anything.

I know different people have different methods, so I can speak only for
myself. If it were me, I would avoid the bra altogether. I figure I need
to make the dress do the work, and part of that task is determining where
to introduce pressure.  If anything is supporting the bosom, it's changing
the effect -- and I'm not getting a clear view of what will happen without
the bra.

I also need to play with the degree of molding of the breast, particularly
how much I let the dress "push" the internal mass up from the underside,
and how much I let "drop." If someone's wearing a bra, the breasts aren't
as malleable -- the whole point of a bra is to keep the breasts from
shifting. 

This is a very different approach from fitting modern clothing, which
assumes you're working with a fixed shape (defined by a foundation
garment) and then making the clothing fit that defined shape. With the
14th-century dress, at least as I make it, the clothing works directly
*with* the body.  It's really more like fitting a corset, or a bra. 

There's also a question of the thickness of the extra layer. A difference
of as little as one-eighth inch on a seam can affect the fit, so fitting
over a bra and then removing the bra would certainly introduce a
significant amount of space. 

I could see an argument for wearing a sports bra for the very first steps
of the fitting, when you're just getting in the ballpark of where things
will be cut, and where you might not want to be fighting with the breasts. 
But for any of the meaty stuff, I'd get rid of the bra entirely.

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 07:14:30 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Request for help
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>


A friend of ours asked us to forward this request to this list, as they
have not been able to locate any answers on the other lists they subscribe
to (dolls, maybe others).  Please respond directly to them.  Thanks in
advance!

>>From: fsparks@hiplains.net (Sparks Frank and Sallie)
>>
>>       I was given the Dress, slip, bonnet, little red shoes and I think
>>(red) silk stockings that my Father wore when he was a baby.  He was born
>>Aug. 1, 1914.  I really need to know how to wash these items.  The dress 
>>has
>>several holes in it that I need to fix.  The pair of shoes have been mashed
>>flat but the leather is still pliable, the shoes are 4  inches from toe to
>>heel with a strap that has a button fastener.  Then there is just one shoe
>>that has 3 button on the top off to the side a little, well that doesn't
>>make sense, ---- the buttons are off center, it is a little black shoe 
>>about
>>3 inches long.  Any help that you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
>>      Mother gave them to me thought that I might dress one of my dolls in
>>the set.   Ha!!  not likely, it will probable go in a shadowbox of some 
>>kind
>>after I find out how to clean and patch them.  He was the baby of the 
>>family
>>so it is possible that some of the other brothers also wore this outfit.
>>   I know that this information has been discussed before, BUT I had no 
>>need
>>of the information then, since I didn't know that Mother had these bits of
>>clothing hoarded away somewhere.
>>Thanks
>>Sallie Sparks
>



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 09:21:06 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> I have just been presented with a formidable problem:  I have a friend
> who would like a Ren Faire "wench" bodice.  She's a largish woman,
> maybe a size 20, except that she has very large breasts.  I believe
> she said a J cup. They are (each) larger than her head, and not
> surprisingly hang to her waistline.
> 
> She would like something that holds them up somewhat, keeping them
> held in place for comfort, without pushing them up to her chin.  I'm
> not sure where to start patterning something like this.  Can anyone
> offer advice?

I would suggest starting with Simplicity 8249 (& JoAnn's is having
another 99 cent sale!).  Choose the size that is closest to her bust and
then bring it in accordingly.  I would suggest having her wear a bra for
the first fitting.  Good luck!

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 09:21:13 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 10:32:43 -0400
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I was pleasantly surprised to find a new treadle machine offered in a
recent Sears-Home Center catalog.   It's a "Singer Nostalgic Sewing
Machine with Cabinet and Stand". Looks like the old White I first
learned on at my mother's knee!  Non-electric and imported from
somewhere (non-USA made).  It goes for US$299.99.  Was very tempted to
get it, but my husband thinks that's crazy!  Still, I remember being
frustrated that I couldn't sew during a power outage (I cut out patterns
by candlelight instead, that time).  It has the beautiful old black with
gold decoration head, too.  Are these poping up elsewhere?
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
> 
> 
> I've heard several mentions here lately of large cup sizes (things
> like H and J;  I think the highest I'd ever heard of before was E). 
> Simple, nosey question:  Who makes bras for these sizes?  Is it
> mailorder only, or can you find things in some stores?

It depends on the area... here in Nashville we have a store called
"Rebecca Vaughn" that carries larger sizes as a norm.  There's also a
company called Goddess that makes larger sizes and is carried in some
stores but is primarily mail order.  It's easier to find them in nursing
bras since most women naturally gain at least one cup size (if not
more!) while nursing.  Generally, I would say the larger the city the
more likely one is able to find such items 'in house' so to speak. 
Otherwise one has to mail order... and I've known one person who had to
have all her bras custom made.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 09:25:04 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Snoods
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I'm interested to hear what folks have to say about earlier periods, but
I can say that for the English Elizabethan, snoods aren't appropriate.
They may have had them at an earlier time, but during Elizabeth's reign
they were not worn. What many folks interpret as snoods are actually
called cauls and are not knotted bags, but netting decorated and used
over a solid fabric. They also don't hang down the back of the neck,
which is a mistake that I see many people make. They sit very close to
the head and are basically large enough to hold a nice bun full of hair
and not much more. You could visualize them as little muffin caps/chef's
hats worn perched on the back of the head with a tall hat on top. 

Be that as it may, the cotehardie discussion has wetted my appetite for
making/wearing them again. I think that I have a good idea of what dress
construction I will use, but I'm a bit stumped on the headwear thing, I
have generally gone with hoods up until now, but I'd like to vary the
style a bit. Any suggestions for good 14th century hats would be
appreciated.

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 11:19:16 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 09:19:42 -0700
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-Poster: Florence Palmer <FJPalmer@earthlink.net>

Have you tried a duct tape pattern?   You make her wear a bra and an old Tee
shirt.  It should be old because youwill be cutting it off.   Then wrap her in
duct tape. forming the bust right.  Then you cut up the side and at the
shoulder then cown the middle of each piece.  You will have Four pieces.  You
will only need tow thou  because you cut the material on the fold.   I have
been told you can use a paded roll kind of as a shelf under the breasts for
added support  but never asked how or if you would attach it to the bodice.
Hope this helps.

Maykn Crofte


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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bosom buddies (sorta OT)
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Sat, 25 Sep 1999, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:

> I've heard several mentions here lately of large cup sizes (things like H
> and J;  I think the highest I'd ever heard of before was E).  Simple, nosey
> question:  Who makes bras for these sizes?  Is it mailorder only, or can you
> find things in some stores?

I have personally experienced everything from A (I was a late bloomer) to
I (nursing my second child). Alas, I have a small ribcage.  Susan can tell
you that I'm not a huge person -- but since cup size is measured as a
difference between ribcage and bust measurements, I end up with a high cup
size just because I'm disproportionate. That is, if I had a few more
inches around my frame, my cup size would only be a D or DD now, not a
G/H. I often compromise by wearing a too-large band size so I can get
enough cup (e.g. a 46DD instead of a nonexistent 36H). 

My experience has been that the larger sizes almost always assume that
large breasts go with a large frame, so I've had a terrible time fitting.
Standard band/cup measurements also don't account for "fullness," just
projection. Thus some companies make several ranges for different fullness
sizes. Nor do the measurements account for placement of the breasts on the
body -- close or separated, high or low. I'm placed high and close, so
standard underwires don't match my body. And then there's desired profile
-- occasionally I find a bra that technically fits, but it pushes me out
so much that I can't button my shirts or close my suit jackets. Buying a
shirt or suit that would go over one of those foundations would mean going
about three sizes higher than my shoulders/back -- it would fit my
breasts, but nothing else. You can find minimizer bras, but these almost
always have underwires. 

I used to wear a sports bra -- Champion Jogbra, which goes to DD, I think. 
I saw an article recently that pointed out that the sports bra makers
generally top out at DD, and there is a HUGE demand from larger women who
want to exercise (to get the weight off!) and can't find a bra to exercise
in because they simply aren't made. I have done aerobics in three layers
of Lycra athletic tops.

Penneys and Hanes have a good selection of large sizes in mail order, as
do a few no-name places you occasionally see advertising in the newspaper
Sunday supplements. Some specialty bra stores and maternity stores will
carry bras up to G or H, but typically in a very limited range. 

For nontraditional bras, I can recommend Bravado. These are nursing bras,
with no underwire. The bras are sort of a sports bra design. A few years
ago, they cost about $30 each, and for an extra $5 they'll custom-build
one, meaning they'll sew any cup size to any band size. So I'd get their
XL++ cup size sewn to a medium band, and it worked pretty well. But since
the last baby, I'm out of even that size. Bravado is in Toronto. Call
1-800-590-7802 for a brochure. 

I have also heard good things about Decent Exposures in Seattle --
<http://www.decentexposures.com>. I just got their catalog recently and
haven't ordered yet, but I see they carry the Unbra, which I tried some
years ago from Travis Place (didn't work for me then, but at least they go
up to very high sizes). 

When I place a bra order, I always make sure it's returnable. Then I order
every size that might potentially work -- sometimes $300 or $400 at a
shot (for Hanes or Penneys, which have so many styles). When the box
comes, I try them all on, choose the one I like, and return the rest
(often ordering more of the one that works).

OBCostume: Maybe this is why I like to wear non-modern clothes...

--Robin



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 12:43:50 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 13:42:24 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Websites for Research
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

List,

I know we often exchange websites, but I was thinking today that we should 
all put up as many as we can think of that are local to us, that other's 
might not know of because they are across the country or the world.  No 
pressure to find one, just if you know of one that might be more obscure that 
has some images up, do share!

This is the De Young's site, in San Francisco.  It's got some lovely 
portraiture up and a zoom feature that allows for real investigation of 
clothing details.

http://www.thinker.org/imagebase/index.html

angela


+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"So far as my coin would stretch; and where it would not
I have used my credit."
King Henry the Fourth; I, ii - W. Shakespeare


QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bodice Fitting challenge
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>Have you tried a duct tape pattern?   

Well, a duct tape pattern would give me a pattern for a body with a bra on,
which is an entirely different line, as has been discussed in the cotehardie
thread.  

As for the Simplicity bodice pattern,  it has totally innacurate "princess"
seams that would also give the wrong line for the period.

I must not have phrased the question properly.  What I'm looking to do is
make a pattern that will give her breasts support, while still having the
proper flat fronted, somewhat compressed line for the 16th century, not the
"tits on a plate" look.

Here's what I think I'll try:  I'll draft a pattern for a bodice that fits
her shoulders, back, and waist, and then slash and spread vertically along
the side front to make room for her breasts.  I'll do a muslin of strong
fabric such as canvas, and correct the fit from there.  I'm assuming that I
may need to cheat the fit so that more of her breasts are down  inside the
bodice.  I'll bone the entire front section for a smooth line.

Does that sound like I'm on the right track?  




Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 12:43:50 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bodice Fitting challenge
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

I'd suggest something similar to what someone already has suggested, but
with a couple of extra hints thrown in:  Make a mock-up in canvas or some
other fabric with a decent weight to it, allowing some extra room.  Then,
fit it on your friend in the following manner:  Pin it on her, and then have
her reach down in, grab her breasts, and shift them to where she'd like
them.  Pin again so the mockup is nice and snug, and repeat as often as
necessary until she's comfortable (note: this is also how I fit corsets).
You'll probably repeat the process a number of times.  Don't be surprised if
you end up with some pretty funky-looking pattern pieces.

Susan

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Bodice Fitting challenge
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



Margo,
  This may be what that padded roll was designed for in the Elizabethan
Costuming book, Savory and Winter.   Do you think it would help?
Michelle
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>I have just been presented with a formidable problem:  I have a friend who
>would like a Ren Faire "wench" bodice.  She's a largish woman, maybe a size
>20, except that she has very large breasts.  I believe she said a J cup.
>They are (each) larger than her head, and not surprisingly hang to her
>waistline.
>
>She would like something that holds them up somewhat, keeping them held in
>place for comfort, without pushing them up to her chin.  I'm not sure where
>to start patterning something like this.  Can anyone offer advice?
>
>Margo
>Margo Anderson
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 13:33:49 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 14:44:57 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Treadle machines!
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I believe I remember hearing several years ago that treadle machines were 
still being made for parts of the world where electricity is a problem.  
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 13:39:49 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 18:32:21 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Snoods
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

>
>Be that as it may, the cotehardie discussion has wetted my appetite for
>making/wearing them again. I think that I have a good idea of what dress
>construction I will use, but I'm a bit stumped on the headwear thing, I
>have generally gone with hoods up until now, but I'd like to vary the
>style a bit. Any suggestions for good 14th century hats would be
>appreciated.
>
>Karen

I'm afraid I can't really think of anything you would call a hat for
14th century - "hat" implying something that has a shape of its own when
not on the head.  But you can have lots of fun with veils and nets and
bands and plaits.  Try (though I know it's hard) to get hold of the
Visual History 14th & 15th Century, and get a feel for the things you
can do.  

I think the net with fillet and barbette sneaks into the 14th century -
you need to structure a loose net to hold your hair in bulges low behind
your ears, and then two bands of linen go over it, one like a sweatband
around the forehead and one under the chin and over the top.  My
personal favourite (if you have the hair) is two plaits coming from
behind the ears (with a very accurate centre parting all the way over),
then bring them forward under your ears, up the sides of your face and
cross them over the top.  You can wear this with a veil that follows
down behind the line of the plaits at the front, or just with a wimple
that comes up and fastens at the base of your hair.

Have fun!
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Treadle machines!
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 19:02:40 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Sun, 26 Sep 1999 14:44:57 EDT, the following was written in this
electric book by AnnBWass@aol.com:

>
>I believe I remember hearing several years ago that treadle machines were 
>still being made for parts of the world where electricity is a problem.  

Not to mention that some of the sects that believe in only necessary
technology (what is necessary and what is sinful luxury varies
depending on which sect it is) still order and use these types of
sewing machines, since many of them prefer not to use electricity at
all.

I could not tell you which ones, though, as I am no expert on Amish,
Mennonites, etc.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bodice Fitting challenge
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 12:05:05 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

>I must not have phrased the question properly.  What I'm looking to do is
>make a pattern that will give her breasts support, while still having the
>proper flat fronted, somewhat compressed line for the 16th century, not the
>"tits on a plate" look.


I think you phrased the question correctly, (FWIW).
>
>Here's what I think I'll try:  I'll draft a pattern for a bodice that fits
>her shoulders, back, and waist, and then slash and spread vertically along
>the side front to make room for her breasts.  I'll do a muslin of strong
>fabric such as canvas, and correct the fit from there.  I'm assuming that I
>may need to cheat the fit so that more of her breasts are down  inside the
>bodice.  I'll bone the entire front section for a smooth line.
>
>Does that sound like I'm on the right track?
>
>
And, yes, what you just described sounds like you are on the right track to
meet such a fitting...challenge..Although, you might want to be sure and cut
strips of the strong canvas, stitch  the strips to the vertical slashes on
one side of the slash and then 'pin her in' for the bust fitting.  I hope I
explained that right.  My reasoning?  First you'll be adjusting the fit
using a stronger material than muslin or paper so that the potential of
ripping is minimized.  Then the other thing is that you'll only having to
struggle with one half of a slash than both sides.

Good luck!

Gia/Giacinta

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From: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@mediaone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Bodice Fitting challenge
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 16:51:27 -0400
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-Poster: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@Mediaone.net>


Does anyone have some good websites for 1000 C.E. and 1530's C.E. clothes
and pattern sites on the web?
Andy


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: unmatched bodice and skirts
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 14:20:51 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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  I found this today.  The bodice and skirt are unmatched and the =
sleeves match the skirt.=20

http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/High.Italian.R=
enaissance/CJ05.jpg

Michelle

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; I found this today.&nbsp; The =
bodice and=20
skirt are unmatched and the sleeves match the skirt. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/High.I=
talian.Renaissance/CJ05.jpg">http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/C=
ostumes/images/High.Italian.Renaissance/CJ05.jpg</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: =
#ffffff">Michelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 16:40:59 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 15:00:20 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
Subject: H-COST: For the "Bosom buddies" (sorta OT)
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-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>

On another list I'm on this URL: http://www.title9sports.com/  has sports bras
to at least a size E cup.  The "Frog Bra" is the one recommended, as it is
supposed to hold even whilst jumping.  (I don't have purrsonal experience in
this matter being only a size B-C cup.  The problem I have is finding the size
40 band with a B or C cup.  The manufacturers automatically assume that since
you are mountain-sized around, you also have mountain-sized breasts.  <sigh>)

Hope the URL helps some of you :->

Svanny

At 07:34 AM 09/26/1999 , you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I've heard several mentions here lately of large cup sizes (things
>> like H and J;  I think the highest I'd ever heard of before was E). 
>> Simple, nosey question:  Who makes bras for these sizes?  Is it
>> mailorder only, or can you find things in some stores?
>
>It depends on the area... here in Nashville we have a store called
>"Rebecca Vaughn" that carries larger sizes as a norm.  There's also a
>company called Goddess that makes larger sizes and is carried in some
>stores but is primarily mail order.  It's easier to find them in nursing
>bras since most women naturally gain at least one cup size (if not
>more!) while nursing.  Generally, I would say the larger the city the
>more likely one is able to find such items 'in house' so to speak. 
>Otherwise one has to mail order... and I've known one person who had to
>have all her bras custom made.
>
>Kat


Svanhildr  Valdimarsdottir     )O(
   Barony of Gyldenholt, Kingdom of Caid
  kittykat@primenet.com
  ICQ: 12691776 (NyteRaevyn)
  AIM: SvanhildrV 
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: more unmatched bodice and skirts
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 15:02:25 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

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http://www.marquise.de/material/1500/1580_2.jpg

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 16:42:21 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: more unmatched bodice and skirts
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 15:05:29 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

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  It occured to me after I posted this link that the woman is probably =
wearing an apron and that her skirt does indeed match.
Oh well..

http://www.marquise.de/material/1500/1580_2.jpg

Michelle

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; It occured to me after I =
posted this link=20
that the woman is probably wearing an apron and that her skirt does =
indeed=20
match.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Oh well..</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.marquise.de/material/1500/1580_2.jpg">http://www.marqu=
ise.de/material/1500/1580_2.jpg</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: =
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Subject: Re: H-COST: New Treadle machines!
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-Poster: Natekakar@aol.com

Try Lehmans, http://www.lehmans.com/  They have some items on line as well as 
an extensive paper catalog, have sewing machines, refrigerators, stoves, 
washing machines, lighting, and many other non-electric appliances and 
supplies.
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 18:24:47 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bosom buddies (sorta OT)
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com


In a message dated 9/25/99 11:30:34 PM, nicolaa@columbus.rr.com writes:

<< Greetings--

I've heard several mentions here lately of large cup sizes (things like H
and J;  I think the highest I'd ever heard of before was E).  Simple, nosey
question:  Who makes bras for these sizes?  Is it mailorder only, or can you
find things in some stores?

Susan >>

I first found one for me at a specialty lingere' store in a town down the 
road from me. Since then, all the ones I've purchased have been mailorder. 
Goddess makes a decent large cup bra, but I'm having trouble with the 
placement of the metal bars for adjusting the straps being right at the top 
of the cup. I am very narrow shouldered, and so when I reach across my body, 
the bars dig into my arm and right below the collarbone rather painfully. 
Plus, the shoulder straps fall off my shoulders all time time.  I've yet to 
get something that's perfectly designed for my body. 

Lane Bryant used to sell the large cupped Goddess bras, but they've stopped 
for some reason. Lady Jane Grace has a catalog you can request via their web 
site. I got my sports bra for doing SCA heavy weapons combat from Junonia. 
Their slogan is "dedicated to the active lives of women size 14 & up." They 
can be reached at 800-671-0175.

Yours,
Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 17:20:58 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:01 AM 09/26/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
>
>Margo,
>  This may be what that padded roll was designed for in the Elizabethan
>Costuming book, Savory and Winter.   Do you think it would help?
>Michelle

The padded roll is helpful for keeping the breasts from sliding down inside
the bodice.  Actually, what works better than a single straight roll a la
Sovoy and Winter is what theatrical shops call "bananas", crescent shaped
pads tacked into the bodice that make little hammocks for them to sit on.  

In this case, though, I think we may want quite a lot of her breasts to be
inside her bodice!

Margo
Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 17:34:10 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 15:53:29 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Need instructions/suggestions for making...
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-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>

"lined" rectangular draw-string bags.  Unlined bags would be a snap, but I'm
not sure how to go about doing lined ones.

Anyone out there with instructions and pictures/drawings?  I'll glady send a
postage paid envelope if they are not webbased or easily done in email :->

TIA,

Svanny

(P.S. Sorry if you get this more than once... going to post to a couple of
lists!)

Svanhildr  Valdimarsdottir     )O(
   Barony of Gyldenholt, Kingdom of Caid
  kittykat@primenet.com
  ICQ: 12691776 (NyteRaevyn)
  AIM: SvanhildrV 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 17:51:02 1999
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From: TriciaaKuhn <inana@cell2000.net>
Subject: H-COST: corsets questions
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-Poster: TriciaaKuhn <inana@cell2000.net>

hello im new to this stuff the E mail posting and corsetry and i would
apreciate any help or advice i could get. also i would like to ask if
anyone out there has a corset pattern for larger sizes than 26 i have
looked but cant find anything

thank you 

Tricia
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 18:03:40 1999
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From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Treadle machines!
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 02:44 PM 9/26/99 EDT, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com
>
>I believe I remember hearing several years ago that treadle machines were 
>still being made for parts of the world where electricity is a problem.  
>Ann Wass
> _________________________________________________________________
>
This is true.  They are advertised brand new in the Lehman's catalog for
non-electric living.  They are expensive however.  I stick with my old White.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 18:25:29 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: New Treadle machines!
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

When I was selling Singer sewing machines about 6 years ago my sales manager
told me that Singer was going to be making a new treadle machine.  According
to him, it was NOT the same as their old models, or as the ones still being
manufactured for use in areas where ower is unavailable.  this one was going
to be a cheap knockoff, intended to appeal  to the "country decorating"
enthusiasts who they suspected would actually sew on it only occasionally.  

I would exercise great caution buying a new Singer treadle model.  If the
one on the market now is what he was talking about,  your money would be
better spent on a vintage machine. 


Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 19:07:54 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: New Treadle machines!
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 20:22:40 -0400
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From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>

One of the ladies in the small community where I lived and ran my sewing 
machine repair business ordered one of these and had me assemble it and 
get it ready to operate.  I agree with the assessment that they are cheap 
knockoffs and will work, but you would be MUCH better off getting an old 
one.  Easier said than done, in some parts of the country.  In Iowa, 
where I used to live they usually went on auction for 5 - 10 dollars, and 
the buyers usually threw away the head and used the table for 
"decoration".  I got all the used heads I could and fitted them with hand 
cranks for people wanting a portable for non-electric situations.  Now 
that I'm in Ohio, I haven't seen this happen as much.  I do have a stock 
of new treadle belts, if anyone needs one.

Lisa Brandt

Margo Anderson wrote:

>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>When I was selling Singer sewing machines about 6 years ago my sales manager
>told me that Singer was going to be making a new treadle machine.  According
>to him, it was NOT the same as their old models, or as the ones still being
>manufactured for use in areas where ower is unavailable.  this one was going
>to be a cheap knockoff, intended to appeal  to the "country decorating"
>enthusiasts who they suspected would actually sew on it only occasionally.  
>
>I would exercise great caution buying a new Singer treadle model.  If the
>one on the market now is what he was talking about,  your money would be
>better spent on a vintage machine. 
>
>
>Margo Anderson
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 19:27:13 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 17:39:33 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> When I was selling Singer sewing machines about 6 years ago my sales manager
> told me that Singer was going to be making a new treadle machine.  According
> to him, it was NOT the same as their old models, or as the ones still being
> manufactured for use in areas where ower is unavailable.  this one was going
> to be a cheap knockoff, intended to appeal  to the "country decorating"
> enthusiasts who they suspected would actually sew on it only occasionally.
> 
> I would exercise great caution buying a new Singer treadle model.  If the
> one on the market now is what he was talking about,  your money would be
> better spent on a vintage machine.

What she said.  I hang out on another list that is dedicated exclusively
to Treadle and hand crank machines and we've discussed these "new"
treadles.  SEveral people in the list are actually "in the business" and
have tried them out - their opinion on Singer's new treadle is that it's
a piece of junk if you're looking for something to actually sew on. 
Really bad stitching, constantly in need of adjustment.

As Margo says, save your money and buy something vintage.  It would
probably be cheaper anyway. I bought a treadle from a friend years ago
for $75 and many people on the list find them in that price range.  Even
really expensive ones are about $200 - 300 in nice parlor cabinets.  YOu
may need to remove a motor that's been added to the machine as many
treadles were converted but as long as the treadle mechanism is still
there it's not difficult.  Many vintage Singers can be converted to
treadle or handcranks - reproduction handcranks are readily available on
the internet for adding to your old machine.  I've currently got one
Singer treadle and 3 handcranks (2 Singers and one JOnes) and they all
sew beautifully except for my Singer model 115 which I'm still
adjusting.  I've also got a White treadle head in the garage I"m
probably going to sell for parts as it's really rusty.  I haven't paid
more than $75 for any of these machines.

Things to look for if you're buying an old machine is 1)Does it still
have it's bobbin case or bobbin shuttle - they can be hard to replace,
2) are all the parts there?  Slide plates go missing frequently and are
hard to replace, 3) how hard is it to find bobbins?  Lots of old
machines were "vibrating shuttle" machines that have a bullet shaped
bobbin case and use long spool-like bobbins, or a boat shuttle.  These
can be found, but for some makers are rarer than others (Singers are
pretty easy to find parts for).  And don't forget most of these will be
straight stitch machines with no reverse.  I do know people who've
converted Singer models up into the 300's into treadles.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 19:39:32 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bodice Fitting challenge
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 18:01:34 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>
>The padded roll is helpful for keeping the breasts from sliding down inside
>the bodice.  Actually, what works better than a single straight roll a la
>Sovoy and Winter is what theatrical shops call "bananas", crescent shaped
>pads tacked into the bodice that make little hammocks for them to sit on.
>
>In this case, though, I think we may want quite a lot of her breasts to be
>inside her bodice!
>
>Margo


I suggested this because not to long ago, I made my sister-in-law an Irish
overdress. I had a heck of a time fitting the bodice. She has such large
breasts that I didn't know what to do with them. We didn't want the heaving
into the neckline look. Now I wished that I had put something in there
because there is an obvious line where she starts to get squashed in there.
The bones get bent inward between her breasts and her stomach. I thinking
putting that roll in may give a smoother line. Extra bones may help too, but
I think the combination of bones and a roll might do a better job.
Michelle

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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <wetlands-l@swiftmessage.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>,
        "sca-garb" <sca-garb@list.uvm.edu>, <sca-chroniclers@midrealm.org>,
        <scribes@castle.org>
Subject: H-COST: Fw: ANST - Marion Zimmer Bradley:  Mourning Song
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 20:09:50 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>



Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike C. Baker <kihe@ticnet.com>
To: <ansteorra@Ansteorra.ORG>
Cc: <elfsea@Ansteorra.ORG>; <central@Ansteorra.ORG>;
<adult_gamer-l@vetl.org>; <minstrel@pbm.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 1999 7:17 PM
Subject: ANST - Marion Zimmer Bradley: Mourning Song


: Apologies in advance to those who may receive more than
: one copy of the following.  There are sorrowful things to
: relate, and reactions to be recorded as well.
:
: Sir Galen of Bristol had forwarded the following to the
: Ansteorran mailing list
:
: > > I have word, forwarded from the Caid list, that
: > > Marion Zimmer Bradley, author of _Mists of Avalon_
: > > and the Darkover series (the lady who named the
: > > Society for Creative Anachronism), has suffered a
: > > heart attack and is presently in Alta Bates Hospital
: > > in Berkeley, CA.
:
: According to sources close to the situation in California,
: Marion Zimmer Bradley passed from this existence to her next
: last evening (Saturday, September 25th, A.D.1999).
:
: Author, editor, mother, teacher, and oh so much more,
: "Mama Marion" will be indeed missed.
:
: The following composition is from the heart, composed upon the
: instant, and in no way meant to encompass all that this woman
: has meant, and by every measure STILL means, to the Society,
: to fans everywhere, and to her closest friends and loving family.
: It is only the first of my responses.
:
: Would someone please forward this poem to the household in California?
:     * * * * *
:     Mourning: "Mama Marion"
:         written by Mike C. Baker,
:         known also as Rev. Kihe Blackeagle (the Dreamsinger Bard)
:         and al-Sayyid Amr ibn Maid al-Bakri al-Amra
:             September, AD1999, being Anno Societatis XXXIV
:
: Lifetime of learning has gone on her way
: Departed the body, left here the cold clay
: But legacies of thought and ten lifetimes of lore
: Have passed into our keeping ere she left this shore.
:
:     And the packbeasts mewl soft in their stable
:     And the riderbeasts in their corral
:     Their mistress strides roads where hooves cannot follow
:      But our thoughts can, and evermore shall
:
: Dwellers in mists and the dancers on tides
: Merchants on highroad and some poets besides
: Healers with thoughtforms and medical arts
: Chroniclers of unseen: all now play smaller parts.
:
:     And the huntbirds cry harsh in the closed mews
:     And the canines howl out at the moons
:     Their mistress now ranges before them
:     And her legacy lives on in tunes
:
: She gave us Society's naming and more
: She gave of herself, and knew well the full score:
: Laying no debts, she accepted them still,
: And so gave our thought-words new will.
:
:     And the writers will pound on their keyboards
:     And the singers will fumble their strings
:     What's been long expected no more has rejected
:     Soft night has spread out her kind wings
:
: Now, the filkers will sing soft of Heller's cold night
: And the huxters sell tales of bold spaceships in flight
: The trufen remember, and the fringefen will know,
: Avalon's Lady can now watch the whole show.
:
:     Marion, "Mama", we'll miss you
:     Your kind words, and harsh, and brave smile
:     Rest now, you have given us lifetimes
:     We'll see you beyond the last mile.
:
:     * * * * *
:
:         Pax in requiescat, Mater Marion --
:             may the Powers grant
:             that you have taught us all enough.
:
: Mike C. Baker
: SCA: al-Sayyid Amr ibn Majid al-Bakri al-Amra
: "Other": Reverend Kihe Blackeagle PULC
:               (the DreamSinger Bard)
: Opinions? I'm FULL of 'em
:
:
============================================================================
: Go to http://lists.ansteorra.org/lists.html to perform mailing list tasks.
:

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 21:33:01 1999
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 26 Sep 1999 20:23:38 -0500 (CDT)
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 20:23:33 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>>
> Maybe the dress was sewn to accommodate pregnancy, not
> tubbiness.

You'll note that I said it probably *wasn't* tubbiness, but that they
were not "tightly fitted:.  It would not surprise me if, rather than
making specific clothes for maternity, even as late as the end of the
14th century some people were wearing everyday clothing that could be
worn without adjustment whether the wearer was pregnant or not.

But that is just supposition.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 21:37:34 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 21:42:44 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: skirt guards
In-Reply-To: <001201bf074e$1358e660$78d67ad1@pavilion>
References: <001b01bf06b7$b1d6f620$cee0a4d8@pavilion>
 <v0300782db412001566e3@[209.207.57.200]>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>If I use a rectangular shaped skirt, would that avoid the stretching?

It will fix the stretching problem because there are no bias areas on seams
any more.  I also second the suggestion of sewing them on after the skirt
is assembled.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 21:37:34 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 21:36:54 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ashelford....
In-Reply-To: <QQhicg11801.199909242030@wodc7mr3.ffx.ops.us.uu.net>
References: <3.0.1.32.19990923183006.00976cc0@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>However, I did a search on bookfinder.com, and turned up one copy,
>through Advanced Book Exchange. The dealer is John Ives Bookseller, also
>presumably in the UK, since the price is 13 pounds, 50 pence (sorry, I
>can't seem to make the pound symbol with my keyboard!)

Thanks!

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 21:37:37 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 22:02:48 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Snoods
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Would a black snood (net with gold) be appropriate?   Or a chrocheted one?

In a general way you can see hairnets (a snood is something completely
different) in different forms/styles used mainly during the 14th & 16th
centuries in SCA period.  Most of the one you see people wearing are
incorrect.  The closer it fits to the head - the better during the 16th
century.  Also to be perfectly picky, there is no evidence for the use of
crochet during the SCA period - it is a *much* later development.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 21:40:00 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Treadle machines!
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 12:51:00 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

Great, just what we need when all the electricity goes phut on new year's
eve.

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 21:40:46 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Snoods and 14th Century headgear
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 23:02:54 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

 I got Strutt on ILL (but have to use it in the local
library as its the 1840 edition.  He mentions nets (cauls)
dating back at least until Roman Times. If you do you your
research, you will be inundated with choices for 14th
Century, French and Italian particularly. There's one plate
in Strutt with nothing but women's 14th century headgear on
it , perhaps 12 different images.

Chaucer is a source for 14th Century descriptions, perhaps
about 1380.  An on-line text of *The Canterbury Tales* and
links to other resources about the age, including pictures
are here: http://www.librarius.com/cantales/links.htm

Here's some images from Braun & Sneider
:http://www.pipcom.com/~tempus/cotehardie/img_bas.html  The
second to last image is most interesting, but my son's
commented that he didn't like them because "They say, I'm
the Queen, now deal with it!"

Hope H. Dunlap





> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Jean Waddie
> Sent: Sunday, September 26, 1999 1:32 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Snoods
>
>
>
> -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
> >
> >Be that as it may, the cotehardie discussion has wetted
my
> appetite for
> >making/wearing them again. I think that I have a good
idea
> of what dress
> >construction I will use, but I'm a bit stumped on the
> headwear thing, I
> >have generally gone with hoods up until now, but I'd like
to vary the
> >style a bit. Any suggestions for good 14th century hats
would be
> >appreciated.
> >
> >Karen
>
> I'm afraid I can't really think of anything you would call
a hat for
> 14th century - "hat" implying something that has a shape
of
> its own when
> not on the head.  But you can have lots of fun with veils
and nets and
> bands and plaits.  Try (though I know it's hard) to get
hold of the
> Visual History 14th & 15th Century, and get a feel for the
things you
> can do.
>
> I think the net with fillet and barbette sneaks into the
14th
> century -
> you need to structure a loose net to hold your hair in
bulges
> low behind
> your ears, and then two bands of linen go over it, one
like a
> sweatband
> around the forehead and one under the chin and over the
top.  My
> personal favourite (if you have the hair) is two plaits
coming from
> behind the ears (with a very accurate centre parting all
the
> way over),
> then bring them forward under your ears, up the sides of
your face and
> cross them over the top.  You can wear this with a veil
that follows
> down behind the line of the plaits at the front, or just
with a wimple
> that comes up and fastens at the base of your hair.
>
> Have fun!
> --
> Jean Waddie
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 22:44:22 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 20:50:16 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fw: ANST - Marion Zimmer Bradley:  Mourning Song
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

How terrible.  I have ALL of the Darkover series.... over 20 volumes.  When
I am having a crisis in my life I read them
When I made my last move to Seattle I started again from the beginning and
read them all.
It was a comfort and a joy. 
She will be missed1
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
>To: <wetlands-l@swiftmessage.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>,"sca-garb"
<sca-garb@list.uvm.edu>, <sca-chroniclers@midrealm.org>,<scribes@castle.org>
>Subject: H-COST: Fw: ANST - Marion Zimmer Bradley:  Mourning Song
>Date: Sun, Sep 26, 1999, 6:09 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
>
>
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>Dallas, Texas
>motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Mike C. Baker <kihe@ticnet.com>
>To: <ansteorra@Ansteorra.ORG>
>Cc: <elfsea@Ansteorra.ORG>; <central@Ansteorra.ORG>;
><adult_gamer-l@vetl.org>; <minstrel@pbm.com>
>Sent: Sunday, September 26, 1999 7:17 PM
>Subject: ANST - Marion Zimmer Bradley: Mourning Song
>
>
>: Apologies in advance to those who may receive more than
>: one copy of the following.  There are sorrowful things to
>: relate, and reactions to be recorded as well.
>:
>: Sir Galen of Bristol had forwarded the following to the
>: Ansteorran mailing list
>:
>: > > I have word, forwarded from the Caid list, that
>: > > Marion Zimmer Bradley, author of _Mists of Avalon_
>: > > and the Darkover series (the lady who named the
>: > > Society for Creative Anachronism), has suffered a
>: > > heart attack and is presently in Alta Bates Hospital
>: > > in Berkeley, CA.
>:
>: According to sources close to the situation in California,
>: Marion Zimmer Bradley passed from this existence to her next
>: last evening (Saturday, September 25th, A.D.1999).
>:
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Sep 26 22:55:59 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 00:11:58 -0400
From: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>
Organization: The Curiosity Shop
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-Poster: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>

Can anyone help this person? Since my focus is mid-ninteenth century, I haven't
a clue...
Please reply directly to the e-mail address below as Scott is not on the list.

Thanks
Glenna Jo Christen

Fashionwk1@aol.com wrote:

> I am desperately trying to buy fairy wings for adults. The only site I have
> seen has not responed in three weeks. Any other sources?
>
> thx
>
> Scott

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 01:35:49 1999
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From: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
To: "'H-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>,
        "'robin@shell.nightowl.net'"
	 <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: H-COST: Definately  OT - bosum buddies :-)
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 16:41:17 +1000
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-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>

- -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>

On Sat, 25 Sep 1999, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:

> I've heard several mentions here lately of large cup sizes (things like H
> and J;  I think the highest I'd ever heard of before was E).  Simple,
nosey
> question:  Who makes bras for these sizes?  Is it mailorder only, or can
you
> find things in some stores?

I have personally experienced everything from A (I was a late bloomer) to
I (nursing my second child). Alas, I have a small ribcage.  Susan can tell
you that I'm not a huge person -- but since cup size is measured as a
difference between ribcage and bust measurements, I end up with a high cup
size just because I'm disproportionate. That is, if I had a few more
inches around my frame, my cup size would only be a D or DD now, not a
G/H. I often compromise by wearing a too-large band size so I can get
enough cup (e.g. a 46DD instead of a nonexistent 36H). 


OBCostume: Maybe this is why I like to wear non-modern clothes...
---

Can I suggest Maple Drive?

They're a british company, and seem pretty okay at first glance. Also, they
only charge £1.99 for shipping WORLDWIDE - where else do you find that????
(I'm in Australia).

I'm a 32FF/G. You CANNOT buy a bra in this *country* in that size!! You'd
think they'd work it out, but only in the last month have I seen a 32F, but
no higher. If I was bigger in the chest, no problem. But, I have a tiny back
and frame, and like Robin, it all sticks out in front!

Anyway, give them a go:

http://www.mapledrive.com/default.asp

I recenlty bought a black velvet push up bra, in my size! It took a week to
get here, and I'm looking forward to trying it on tonight. I think they
stock up to an H cup, in lots of band sizes.

Like I said, OT, but good information :-)

Georgia
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
In-reply-to: <199909242007.OAA23017@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> - -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net> 

> I've never had that problem. I've found the close-to-the-body armhole and
> the tension on the neckline (which is a curve pulled wider) hug the dress
> right to the body. It sure *looks* precarious, though! Remember to make
> sure the breasts are in their maximum highest position while you're
> fitting, so they can't bounce out in wear -- doing some fitting while
> lying down is essential. (Hmm, maybe gravity boots ... ;-D )

I'll certainly try it next time.  Not having the physical nececcities for 
it myself, it'll have to be tried on other prople...<g>  Sometimes, 
however, I find myself holding my breath when people are being... 
erm... less than decorous while wearing low cut garments I have 
made them.

> Yep. I make lacing holes fairly early on in the process, but I don't do
> the top two or three sets of holes till I'm sure I don't need to shape
> that top inch or two of center opening. 

I'll have to try that too.

> Hey, I'll take you here anytime! My husband can barely lace. I've also
> given up on teaching him how to braid my hair.

I do hair too....  Sometimes I wonder if I out to set up shop and 
*charge* for it.  Once one person asks, a queue forms!

Not that I *mind* having the opportunity to play with all that hair, 
but sometimes I'd like the chance to finishe getting into my garb 
*first*....<g>


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 08:54:16 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: cauls
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Karen's posts on the difference between snoods and cauls reminded me of a 
question I have never seen answered. Maybe I just haven't looked in the right 
place. Anyway, I want to make a cal but I can't for the life of me figure out 
how they stay on. Do they have fitted bands around the outside, so they're 
sort of like caps? Is there a drawstring to fit one to the head? Do they need 
tons of pins? 

Gail Finke

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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:42:58 +0100
From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: 1900 House TV programme
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I'm enjoying  this series too. There was a preliminary programme last Wednesday  about how they prepared the house for the project.
For the benefit of our American friends, it is on Channel 4 (our second commercial channel) not BBC. (Thursdays at 9.00). Let's hope it gets sold to US TV.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 09:13:23 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: cauls
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> 
> Karen's posts on the difference between snoods and cauls reminded me of a 
> question I have never seen answered. Maybe I just haven't looked in the right 
> place. Anyway, I want to make a cal but I can't for the life of me figure out 
> how they stay on. Do they have fitted bands around the outside, so they're 
> sort of like caps? Is there a drawstring to fit one to the head? Do they need 
> tons of pins? 

Hi Gail!

I've heard some people say that the hair was braided around the back of
the head, giving the caul something to sit on.  As I myself have hair way
to short for this option, I cheat and use a stretchy comb sewn into the
band around the caul front.  It does help it stay on from dawn to dusk.

Drea


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 09:34:39 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 09:38:54 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: cauls
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

As I construct them, cauls are just gathered onto a regular band. The
trick is to make them snug to your head (not tight, not loose, just snug)
and then use one comb sewn into the center front. When you wear it, the
comb will sit in front of the highest part of your skull, which on me is
a bit more than halfway back. Remember that the caul is worn on the back
of the head so the band will sit behind the ears. I know that there are
some ladies who have very slick hair, I don't know what to tell you. But
I have waist length, very thick hair and even if I just stuff it up into
the caul without making a bun or anything, a well fitted caul with one
comb holds everything just fine thru vigorous walking and Italian Ren
dancing. And since the surface area ia quite small, they are great for
going all out in decoration. I usually make a caul to match each set of
sleeves/foreparts.

Karen

On Mon, 27 Sep 1999 08:54:16 EDT Gaelscot@aol.com writes:
> 
> -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
> 
> 
> 
> Karen's posts on the difference between snoods and cauls reminded me 
> of a 
> question I have never seen answered. Maybe I just haven't looked in 
> the right 
> place. Anyway, I want to make a cal but I can't for the life of me 
> figure out 
> how they stay on. Do they have fitted bands around the outside, so 
> they're 
> sort of like caps? Is there a drawstring to fit one to the head? Do 
> they need 
> tons of pins? 
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

My head is not shaped right for keeping on any sort of hair-netlike
item, so I pin it to the barbette/band.  Works very well.

--
The most outrageous lies that can be invented will find believers if a
person only tells them with all his might. --  Mark Twain
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 09:52:19 1999
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

Michelle wrote: It occurred to me after I posted this link that the
woman is probably
wearing an apron and that her skirt does indeed match. Oh well..

http://www.marquise.de/material/1500/1580_2.jpg

I was about to reply saying the same thing, but then thought about it
some more. I tend to agree that it is an apron, as I cannot remember
seeing dresses of this type with unmatching skirts. However, I can also
not remember seeing an apron on someone sitting for a formal portrait.
The head towel (Perugina, I believe) makes it seem like she is more
casual than probably intended.

Liz Jones



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 10:01:53 1999
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

What is this garment?

 http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/High.Italian.Renaissance/CJ38.gif



Liz Jones

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 10:40:06 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject:  H-COST: Picture, picture, who knows the picture
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 10:50:36 -0500
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Maybe the subject line should have read painting instead but oh well....on
to the actual question....Does anyone know who anything about this portrait?
This is the first time I have ever seen it and would like to know more about
it.
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/Elizabethan.Women
/CM11.jpg

Thank you,
Carol Ross


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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Harvey Georgia wrote:
> 
> I have personally experienced everything from A (I was a late bloomer)
> to I (nursing my second child). Alas, I have a small ribcage.  Susan
> can tell you that I'm not a huge person -- but since cup size is
> measured as a difference between ribcage and bust measurements, I end
> up with a high cup size just because I'm disproportionate. That is, if
> I had a few more inches around my frame, my cup size would only be a D
> or DD now, not a G/H. I often compromise by wearing a too-large band
> size so I can get enough cup (e.g. a 46DD instead of a nonexistent
> 36H).

Before I had children I was a 32 D or DD... try finding those!!  I have
a friend who wears a 32 DD also and she's had as much trouble... here in
Nashville it's easier to find a 36H! <grin>  I'm now at a 36 DD but if
things change I'll have to head to Rebecca Vaughns to buy bras...
although some of the major chains (Dillards, Castner-Knotts & Sears)
have started carrying larger sizes.

Kat
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

> Janice Dallas wrote:
> 
> I was pleasantly surprised to find a new treadle machine offered in a
> recent Sears-Home Center catalog.   It's a "Singer Nostalgic Sewing
> Machine with Cabinet and Stand". Looks like the old White I first
> learned on at my mother's knee!  Non-electric and imported from
> somewhere (non-USA made).  It goes for US$299.99.  
> 
There are many treadle (Singer and other brands) sewing machines around in
antique shops and at auctions that you can pick up for very little.  I've
seen them for around $40, and at auction you may be lucky enough to pay much
less.  Although, I paid considerably more for my elderly neighbor's machine
which was her mother's.  I would be very reluctant to purchase this machine
you mention since Singer has declared bankruptcy.  In the opinion of many,
their machines haven't been quality for some years and parts for this
"hybrid" may be non-existant.

You would have a much better quality machine if you were to find a nice
"orphan" machine.  There is an antique sewing machine newsgroup which is
very friendly and would help you find manuals, parts, and accessories for
your machine -- no matter what brand you choose.  There is also a treadle
sewing machine site as well.  I would highly recommend an antique machine
because with a little loving care and fresh oil they will purr forever for
you.

Connie Fairchild
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 11:49:39 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Need instructions/suggestions for making...
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-Poster: Deb Baddorf <baddorf@inil.com>

>-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
>
>"lined" rectangular draw-string bags.  Unlined bags would be a snap, but I'm
>not sure how to go about doing lined ones.
>
>Anyone out there with instructions and pictures/drawings?  I'll glady send a
>postage paid envelope if they are not webbased or easily done in email :->


It's a snap!   I made a few from scrap silky-poly material
for last Christmas, just to give to my neices with
plastic "jewels" inside.  They love the bags as much
as the jewels!


Cut an oval or a rectangle of fabric,  twice as long as
you want your bag.
   __________
  /          \
  |           |
  |           |
  |           |
  |           |
  |-----------|
  |           |
  |           |
  |           |
  |           |
  \           /
   -----------

Fold in half on the middle line:

  |-----------|
  |           |
  |           |
  |           |
  |           |
  \           /
   -----------

Cut a second one, identically.  Fold the same say.  Lay on top
of the first one.

Sew a seam down the left side, the bottom, and the right side
(not the folded edges).   LEAVE 1/2 to 1"  unsewn at the top
of both sides.   I.E.   don't sew all the way to the folded
edge.

Now,  reach into the unsewn part,   under only ONE layer
of fabric.   Three layers will be to one side of your fingers,
one layer to the other side.

Turn it inside out, through that unsewn hole.   VOILA!
A lined bag,  with the seams all hidden.

Add a line of stitching around the top (1/2 - 1" down)
for your drawstring casing.    Fold inside,  or otherwise
fix, those unsewn edges of the casing  (the unsewn bits
where you turned it).     I left them unsewn, with a little
fray-check on them,    but you
might care about them.   Try it once with some scrap fabric,
and decide for yourself what to do about the raw edges.

Deb Baddorf


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 11:52:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 13:06:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Picture, picture, who knows the picture
In-Reply-To: <00e701bf0900$0bc3e220$0200a8c0@mamabear.stormypetrel.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


It's  by Francois Clouet, probably around 1570.  the picture is "Queen
Marguerite as a girl", and is a good example of 1570s French fashion.

Drea


It looks like a Clouet...probably around 1570.
If you go up one directory and access the main page, they include info on
the pictures.


On Mon, 27 Sep 1999, Genevieve de Courtanvaux wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
> 
> Maybe the subject line should have read painting instead but oh well....on
> to the actual question....Does anyone know who anything about this portrait?
> This is the first time I have ever seen it and would like to know more about
> it.
> http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/Elizabethan.Women
> /CM11.jpg
> 
> Thank you,
> Carol Ross
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 13:11:34 EDT
Subject: H-COST: 14th century Dress
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com

In a message dated 09/26/1999 11:59:48 AM Central Daylight Time, 
owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com writes:

> > I was thinking of making an attempt at the 4-panel dress Robin described,
>  > and was contemplating wearing a sports bra for fitting- it's the 
one-piece
>  > kind that flatten one's breasts against the chest wall, making "mounds".
>  > It's supportive because the breasts are against the chest, not because of
>  > any cantilevering.

Is there a pattern for this sort of dress anywhere? Or is this one of those 
"do it yourself" type things? As I am trying to do this sort of thing on my 
own with no real experience, without any helpers (my hubby will do hems, but 
that's about it!) a pattern really helps!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
So many books, so little time

Patience is not passive; on the contrary, it is active; it is concentrated 
strength. 
        - Edward G. Bulwer-Lytton

schmitt100@aol.com
**********************
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Maciejowski Bible
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 17:02:07 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


Thanks Marsha, now I have a title I can find the book. I love this list.

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 12:50:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:04:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Treadle machines!
In-Reply-To: <37f76d1d.66131486@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

The Lehman's catalog has them, too:
http://www.lehmans.com/

I have an old Singer that's technically functional, though I've never been
able to get the tension to work properly.  Hand-stitching doesn't bother
me that much, especially since I can do it on my daily commute (my DH does
the driving, and I don't get car-sick).

Regards,
Mara



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 12:53:30 1999
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To: "ANSAXNET Discussion Forum" <ANSAX-L@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Cc: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Off-topic contact needed 
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-Poster: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>


Greetings all - short diversion from the regular bandwidth...

I  need to contact a company (or companies) who publish postcards for the
V&A Museum in London.  If anybody on these lists has a name they could give
me - just email directly to me and not to the list, I'd appreciate it.

TIA,

Sidne

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 13:22:54 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:37:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Has anyone here made a Duct Tape Double for men?  I think it's going to be
necessary so that I can get a proper fit for my DH's kit, without driving
him nuts with repeated fittings.  Other than the obvious (no foundation
garments), what is different from doing this for women?

-- Mara


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 14:04:19 1999
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From: Dora Barnes <dorabarnes@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Body shapes
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dora Barnes <dorabarnes@yahoo.com>

I have trawled through the h-cost archives at
http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/index.cgi?
and I can't find any help with this question so here
goes.

It is very easy to find photographs and portraits etc
of people in 18C, 19C and Edwardian costume which
display the appropriate body shape posture due to
corsets and other restrictions.  Is there anyone on
this list who can help me with finding some evidence,
preferably photographic, which shows :

Here is 1999 person in 1999 shape
Here is same person in 18 /19 C shape.

It would be interesting to compare this against the
"true" shape of 18/19 women.

Dora



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 14:30:14 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 14:43:21 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Body shapes
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

I would look for movie actresses, especially the English ones. Get a look 
at the actress in period costume and in current fashion.
Kim


At 12:18 PM 09/27/1999 -0700, you wrote:

>-Poster: Dora Barnes <dorabarnes@yahoo.com>
>
>I have trawled through the h-cost archives at
>http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/index.cgi?
>and I can't find any help with this question so here
>goes.
>
>It is very easy to find photographs and portraits etc
>of people in 18C, 19C and Edwardian costume which
>display the appropriate body shape posture due to
>corsets and other restrictions.  Is there anyone on
>this list who can help me with finding some evidence,
>preferably photographic, which shows :
>
>Here is 1999 person in 1999 shape
>Here is same person in 18 /19 C shape.
>
>It would be interesting to compare this against the
>"true" shape of 18/19 women.
>
>Dora
>
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 13:25:22 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Body shapes
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

You might try contacting Alicia Annas, Dept of Theatre, San Diego State
University.  This is her area of specialty - body shapes and body movement
in period dress.  She has written and lecured on the subject.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Dora Barnes <dorabarnes@yahoo.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Body shapes
>Date: Mon, Sep 27, 1999, 12:18 PM
>

>
>-Poster: Dora Barnes <dorabarnes@yahoo.com>
>
>I have trawled through the h-cost archives at
>http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives/index.cgi?
>and I can't find any help with this question so here
>goes.
>
>It is very easy to find photographs and portraits etc
>of people in 18C, 19C and Edwardian costume which
>display the appropriate body shape posture due to
>corsets and other restrictions.  Is there anyone on
>this list who can help me with finding some evidence,
>preferably photographic, which shows :
>
>Here is 1999 person in 1999 shape
>Here is same person in 18 /19 C shape.
>
>It would be interesting to compare this against the
>"true" shape of 18/19 women.
>
>Dora
>
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 15:25:53 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Period Patterns has one.  It's part of Early Tudor Women's Gowns -
1490-1535 A.D.  It's the earliest style on that.  PMM-51 is Multisized 6
-20, costs $22.95 or so at AlterYears, 626-585-2994.  Be warned,
however, to look for the break in the black line on the center front
edge and rematch it (don't extend it!) before cutting out or your top
front will prow out.  I've had very good luck with this on a chorus of
30 women, but it's always helpful to do a muslin first. 
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From: Ariyana Kylstram <ariyana@cats.UCSC.EDU>
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-Poster: Ariyana Kylstram <ariyana@cats.UCSC.EDU>

I have slick, long, fine, straight hair.  Here's what I do:

1) make a fitted band with no elastic in it
2) attach a metal haircomb into the center top of it so that it will not
show at all (usually this requires handstitching it to the inside of the 
band, with the teeth pointing so that when it's on your head they will 
point backwards)
3) braid my hair in two french braids, one on each side, gathering them 
together into a bun at the back of my head
4) Put the caul on, sliding the comb into the hair between the braids, 
which should be pointing in two different directions because the hair is 
parted down the middle

	b///p\\\b
	r///a\\\r
	a///r\\\a
	i///t\\\i
	d///|\\\d
This holds my caul on through full days in court Elizabethans, including 
dancing and getting in trouble (what else are Maids of Honor supposed to 
do? -- just kidding)

.ari
The Lady Ariyana of House Kylstram 
ariyana@cats.ucsc.edu
http://www.kithrup.com/~ariyana/


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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 17:33:37 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Snoods
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>


> I think the net with fillet and barbette sneaks into the 14th century -
> you need to structure a loose net to hold your hair in bulges low behind
> your ears, and then two bands of linen go over it, one like a sweatband
> around the forehead and one under the chin and over the top.  My
> personal favourite (if you have the hair) is two plaits coming from
> behind the ears (with a very accurate centre parting all the way over),
> then bring them forward under your ears, up the sides of your face and
> cross them over the top.  You can wear this with a veil that follows
> down behind the line of the plaits at the front, or just with a wimple
> that comes up and fastens at the base of your hair.
> 
My Laurel does a variation of this on my hair when I'm wearing 14th century. She makes 
two braids very high and forward, right at the top of my head on either side, and then folds 
them under so that they hang to about shoulder height (my hair is normally butt-length). 
They hang right next to my face (think basset hound ears), and they are bobby pinned to 
death! Otherwise they don't stay up. The ends are bobby pinned to the start of the braid 
right next to my scalp. The hardest part of doing this style is getting the braids to hang 
evenly.

 Over the braids goes a short veil, a little longer than the braids, and a metal fillet over all 
so that it stays in place. We usually pin the veil into the braids so that it really stays put. 
There is a picture of a statue with a similar hairstyle in Boucher, but I don't recall what 
page or who the statue is. There is no veil on the statue, however, just the fillet. I think the 
veil makes it easier to hide the ends and bobby pins, though. I wish I had a picture of me 
with this hairstyle, but I don't have any at the moment. I'll try to get some and post them on 
a web page or something.

And for the record, I live in a kingdom where metal circlets are allowed, regardless of social 
rank. I would really prefer to avoid starting a thread about SCA sumptuary laws! =)

--Jessica
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 20:50:20 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: cauls
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>


>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>> 
>> 
>> Karen's posts on the difference between snoods and cauls reminded me of a 
>> question I have never seen answered. Maybe I just haven't looked in the right 
>> place. Anyway, I want to make a cal but I can't for the life of me figure out 
>> how they stay on. Do they have fitted bands around the outside, so they're 
>> sort of like caps? Is there a drawstring to fit one to the head? Do they need 
>> tons of pins? 
>
>Hi Gail!
>
>I've heard some people say that the hair was braided around the back of
>the head, giving the caul something to sit on.  

This is the solution I use.  The band comes forward in front of the
braids, and it just stays there through thick and thin.

Jean

>As I myself have hair way
>to short for this option, I cheat and use a stretchy comb sewn into the
>band around the caul front.  It does help it stay on from dawn to dusk.
>
>Drea
>

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 17:35:54 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 22, 1999 11:51
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling

>
>Virtuous frugality indeed.  :)  I *like* it.   I personally felt *Very*
>virtuous the other day when I did all my mending.  It's as if I have new
>clothes.  *G*  But this is a great idea.  Thrift stores are great these
days
>but has anyone noticed that there just aren't as many places to drop things
off
>at anymore


Well, if you have an Orthodox or Catholic church around, see if they have an
annual garage sale. They take stuff in all year round, and then sell it in a
large sale to raise money for projects around the year. Most Orhtodox and
Catholic monastaries and convents do the same.

Anya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 17:32:25 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
Message-Id: <938472318.6591.257@excite.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 15:45:18 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

>  Thrift stores are great these
> days
> >but has anyone noticed that there just aren't as many places to drop
things
> off
> >at anymore

If you are near the Bellevue, Washington area, the Children's Hospital
thrift store takes donations during business hours on weekdays. They are
very nice, and it all goes to a good cause.

Now, a question somewhat remotly related to the purpose of this list . . .
What is the most interesting vintage/antique item of clothing you've found
at such shops? And what did you pay for it? I'd be interested in seeing what
folk have found in their various locations, being the thrift store junkie
that I am.

Kate
----
StitchWitch

Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 18:05:46 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 16:19:44 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@mail.cho.org>

>-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
>
>>  Thrift stores are great these
>> days
>> >but has anyone noticed that there just aren't as many places to drop
>things
>> off
>> >at anymore
>
>If you are near the Bellevue, Washington area, the Children's Hospital
>thrift store takes donations during business hours on weekdays. They are
>very nice, and it all goes to a good cause.
>
>Now, a question somewhat remotly related to the purpose of this list . . .
>What is the most interesting vintage/antique item of clothing you've found
>at such shops? And what did you pay for it? I'd be interested in seeing what
>folk have found in their various locations, being the thrift store junkie
>that I am.
>
>Kate
>----
>StitchWitch
>
>Fanaticism consists in redoubling your effort when you have forgotten your
>aim. - Santayana, Life of Reason, 1905
>
About 15 years ago I bought a practically brand new Pendleton woman's
jacket - fit perfectly and wasn't even missing a button.  I paid $2.50 for
it.  I wore it to death on weekends for years and finally tired of it.  It
still looked good when I sent it off to another thrift store.  Not my style
anymore, but it was pretty good at the time.

More recently I bought a wool/silk blend suit jacket for 5.00.  Only fit me
for a couple of years, but it too was recycled to a thrift store once grew
out of it.

I've found the beautiful pewter goblets that were once sold at the
California renaissance faires for $50 up in thrifts for $5-10.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 19:20:28 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


 .
>What is the most interesting vintage/antique item of clothing you've found
>at such shops?

Does it have to be clothing?  My all time best purchase was a set of four
huge drapery panels in a perfectly period brocade, in a rayon/cotton blend
that looks like silk.  They started out yellowish green, but I dyed them
bronze-ish forest green and made Elizabethan court costumes for my husband
and I, which can be seen at http://www.directcon.net/wander/216th.htm.  Oh,
the price? $40.

I used to live near a Salvation Army that got rolls and bolts of trim fairly
frequently, so I have 220 yards of black crochet-looking edging, 20 yards of
red moss fringe, and a bolt of black tassel fringe.  I also got a Japanese
braiding stool in an elegant wooden carying box for $3.  They thought it was
a game!

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 19:33:02 1999
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From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Treadle machines!
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

The Lehman's Non-electric Catalogue (http://www.lehmans.com) sells these
new Singer machines, but I have only heard bad reviews.  They are
cheaply made in China, and the cabinet is not solid wood, but pressed
fiberboard.  A friend who bought one returned it after several of the
parts broke (cheap metal).  She said your best bet is to find an old one
on eBay or at a flea market.

Just my two cents,
Jennie Chancey

--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 19:41:37 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.SV4.3.96.990927143504.10069D-100000@saltmine.radix.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 19:55:08 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

I have a friend that is in the process of doing one for himself. I will ask
him about it and forward him your email if you like.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide

----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, September 27, 1999 1:37 PM
Subject: H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men


:
: -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
:
: Has anyone here made a Duct Tape Double for men?  I think it's going to be
: necessary so that I can get a proper fit for my DH's kit, without driving
: him nuts with repeated fittings.  Other than the obvious (no foundation
: garments), what is different from doing this for women?
:
: -- Mara
:
:
:  _________________________________________________________________
:  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
:  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
:

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 19:44:46 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
In-Reply-To: <938472318.6591.257@excite.com>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Mon, 27 Sep 1999, StitchWitch wrote:

> Now, a question somewhat remotly related to the purpose of this list . . .
> What is the most interesting vintage/antique item of clothing you've found
> at such shops? And what did you pay for it? I'd be interested in seeing what
> folk have found in their various locations, being the thrift store junkie
> that I am.
> 
Unfortunately I've had to pass on all the really great stuff I've come
across. Once I founbd this lovely pair of green flares, but they didn't
fit, and another time, a green silk velvet skirt but that was $40. That
didn't fit either (must have been made for an Amazon it nearly came up
to my chin), and I don't know what I would have cut it up for as it wasn't
very wide. 
But absolutely the best thing I actually got my hands on second-hand
was my mother's old curtains. They were made of upholstery weifght
old-gold velvet and there were eioght of them, each 1m x 2m in size.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 20:11:35 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 21:26:11 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

Teddy said:

Not that I *mind* having the opportunity to play with all that hair,
but sometimes I'd like the chance to finishe getting into my garb
*first*....<g>

Where oh where were you before I cut off my hair??????  (It's growing back,
I like short but miss the braids too)  I never met anyone who had a clue how
to do my hair!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 20:16:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 18:32:41 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I have a friend here in Seattle who has for years been a Thrift Shop junkie.
 She has developed the knack.
She walks into the store and immediately finds all the good designer
clothing.  She buys it if it is good.  It is not a matter of size.
What has resulted is a great collection of designer clothing - much of which
has already been donated to a museum at a great tax advantage for her!
The other side of it is that she has become anexpert on such clothing which
she backs up with a great library on the subject.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
>Date: Mon, Sep 27, 1999, 3:35 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Wednesday, September 22, 1999 11:51
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
>
>>
>>Virtuous frugality indeed.  :)  I *like* it.   I personally felt *Very*
>>virtuous the other day when I did all my mending.  It's as if I have new
>>clothes.  *G*  But this is a great idea.  Thrift stores are great these
>days
>>but has anyone noticed that there just aren't as many places to drop
things
>off
>>at anymore
>
>
>Well, if you have an Orthodox or Catholic church around, see if they have
an
>annual garage sale. They take stuff in all year round, and then sell it in
a
>large sale to raise money for projects around the year. Most Orhtodox and
>Catholic monastaries and convents do the same.
>
>Anya
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 21:06:20 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 19:10:55 -0700
From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
Organization: @Home Network
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



StitchWitch wrote:

<snip>

> Now, a question somewhat remotly related to the purpose of this list . . .
> What is the most interesting vintage/antique item of clothing you've found
> at such shops? And what did you pay for it? I'd be interested in seeing what
> folk have found in their various locations, being the thrift store junkie
> that I am.
> 

	That got me into this thread.  I have only one tuxedo, and it was
purchased at a shop in the Thrift Shop Strip Mall here in Poway (near
San diego) three years ago.  Tail coat, vest, slacks, suspenders.  There
is a tag in it that says March 1945.
	$10.00.  Not bad.  

	Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 21:31:32 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 22:42:51 -0700
From: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>
Organization: House Wolfholme
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-Poster: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>

Michelle wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> Margo,
>   This may be what that padded roll was designed for in the Elizabethan
> Costuming book, Savory and Winter.   Do you think it would help?
> Michelle
> >-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> >
> >I have just been presented with a formidable problem:  I have a friend who
> >would like a Ren Faire "wench" bodice.  She's a largish woman, maybe a size
> >20, except that she has very large breasts.  I believe she said a J cup.
> >They are (each) larger than her head, and not surprisingly hang to her
> >waistline.
> >
> >She would like something that holds them up somewhat, keeping them held in
> >place for comfort, without pushing them up to her chin.  I'm not sure where
> >to start patterning something like this.  Can anyone offer advice?
> >
> >Margo
> >Margo Anderson
> >"One Tough Costumer"
> >http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


Padded roll, eh? What padded roll. Tell me more, please. I wear a G or H
cup depending on which band size I get. I'm trying to achieve the Tudor
or Elizabethan look but I'm running into the folding boning problem
also. 
I either have to lace way too tight and moosh every thing into
immobility  or gravity wins the battle in a rather uncomfortable and
unattractive manner. 

-- 
Freya

Abair ach beag, is abair gu math e.
Say but little, and say it well.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 21:38:20 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 22:50:54 EDT
Subject: Re:  H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Kijee@aol.com


In a message dated 9/27/99 7:38:42 PM, you wrote:

<<Has anyone here made a Duct Tape Double for men?  I think it's going to be
necessary so that I can get a proper fit for my DH's kit, without driving
him nuts with repeated fittings.  Other than the obvious (no foundation
garments), what is different from doing this for women?
>>

I made one for my husband a number of months ago. My #1 tip: the first piece 
of tape goes over the mouth! Just kidding. I had him wear a old turtle neck 
instead of a  T-shirt so that I could continue the tape fairly high up on the 
neck. He works out a lot so that fitting a standing collar is always a 
challenge. I also had a chair handy for him to grab on because he was not 
used to standing still for an extended period of time. Good luck and have fun!
        Kij Greenwood
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 22:09:16 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 07:55 PM 09/27/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
>
>I have a friend that is in the process of doing one for himself. I will ask
>him about it and forward him your email if you like.

Please do!  My husband and I are both puzzled an intrigued as to HOW he is
doing one for himself!

Margo
Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 22:24:08 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fw: duct tape double/men
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 22:35:23 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

Ok, Here is his email and web page. You all can write to him directly. :)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide


----- Original Message -----
From: Vincent <vincent9@swbell.net>
To: Franchesca Havas <ches@io.com>
Sent: Monday, September 27, 1999 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: duct tape double/men


: I'm working on that this Fri all I have to do is stuff it and mount it on
a
: stand
: after that I'm all done
: Ever Yours
: My Land
: http://home.swbell.net/vincent9/
:
: ----- Original Message -----
: From: Franchesca Havas <ches@io.com>
: To: <vincent9@swbell.net>
: Sent: Monday, September 27, 1999 7:07 PM
: Subject: duct tape double/men
:
:
: > Have you done yours yet?
: >
: > Can you help them?
: >
: > Love ya!
: > Ches
: > Dallas, Texas
: > motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide
: >
: > ----- Original Message -----
: > From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
: > To: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
: > Sent: Monday, September 27, 1999 1:37 PM
: > Subject: H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men
: >
: >
: > :
: > : -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
: > :
: > : Has anyone here made a Duct Tape Double for men?  I think it's going
to
: be
: > : necessary so that I can get a proper fit for my DH's kit, without
: driving
: > : him nuts with repeated fittings.  Other than the obvious (no
foundation
: > : garments), what is different from doing this for women?
: > :
: > : -- Mara
: > :
: > :
: > :  _________________________________________________________________
: > :  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
: > :  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
: > :
: >
: >
: >
:

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 22:37:50 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bodice Fitting challenge
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 21:00:01 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


Elizabethan Costuming for the years 1550-1580,  by  Janet Winter and Carolyn
Savoy
ISBN 0-9630220-0-8  Copyright 1987 Other Times Productions


>Padded roll, eh? What padded roll. Tell me more, please. I wear a G or H
>cup depending on which band size I get. I'm trying to achieve the Tudor
>or Elizabethan look but I'm running into the folding boning problem
>also.
>I either have to lace way too tight and moosh every thing into
>immobility  or gravity wins the battle in a rather uncomfortable and
>unattractive manner.
>
>--
>Freya
It is something in the book above.  Look at the section on corsetry.   It is
a roll that you sew into the inside.  It is supposed to give you more
support.  They call it a 'push up pad' but, I think this would help with the
large busted gals who want a smoother line, too.  I haven't tried it yet on
my sister-in-law but, I am planning on it.
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 22:53:38 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 21:04:34 -0700
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Elizabeth Jones wrote:
> 
> What is this garment?
> 
>  http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/High.Italian.Renaissance/CJ38.gif
> 

I see it says renaissance, but it looks like an Ottoman
(or Persian?) caftan with those long false sleeves.

Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 23:02:45 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

The Purple Elephant wrote:
> 
> -Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
> 
> On Mon, 27 Sep 1999, StitchWitch wrote:
> 
> > Now, a question somewhat remotly related to the purpose of this list . . .
> > What is the most interesting vintage/antique item of clothing you've found
> > at such shops? And what did you pay for it? I'd be interested in seeing what
> > folk have found in their various locations, being the thrift store junkie
> > that I am.
> >

A Coach leather bag for $1 at a garage sale.
My first Paisly shawl acquisition had been made into an
A-line skirt (horrors!) I got for $10. I have a lot more now!

Susan

-- 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Sep 27 23:05:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 00:21:27 -0400
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I found a pair of gorgeous, expensive men's wing-tip shoes in a thrift
shop.  The catch? They were a 10 and 1/2 AAA.  Guess what, that's my
husband's size!  He's so hard to find shoes for, and these were $20!
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 00:21:14 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 22:31:37 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re:recycling favorite
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

     That Betsy Johnson little gold silk slip dress for $5 in my daughter's
size.  Her Doc Martin's that lasted for 3 years for $25.  The bodice
[RenFaire type] that we gave to my best friend's 8 yr. old--for $3.  But
that's leaving out furnishings of other sorts, books/&c.  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 00:27:18 1999
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: unmatched bodice and skirts
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>       I found this today.  The bodice and  skirt are unmatched and the
>sleeves match the skirt.
>http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/High.Italian.Renaiss
>ance/CJ05.jpg  

Hard to say, but this could be an apron too. I have seen a number of German
Renn. peasant dresses and even an upper class one or two that are unmatched
though. Sometimes people do mistake one of the apron styles (one that goes
all the way around with a smocked waist) as an overskirt, but there are
several that are clearly unmatched that you can even see the apron.
Breugel has some in various paintings and there is a series of tapestries
of the seasons that show some clearly. Unmatched skirts/bodices tends to be
a lower class thing in the earlier period 16th c Germany at least...

Julie Adams



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 00:44:48 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 22:05:46 -0700
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Subject: H-COST: Book on textiles and weaving -- More useful if you read
  French... 
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

   ISBN: 227105592X  Dewey Decimal No.: 940 2 1  Lib. of Congress Call No.:
NK8808.C37 1999
Cardon, Dominique. La Draperie au Moyen Age : essor d'une grande industrie
europeenne / 
Dominique Cardon.  Paris : CNRS Editons, c1999. 661 p. : ill. (some col.),
maps ; 24 cm.
504    Includes bibliographical references (p. 613-[640]) and indexes. 1.
Textile fabrics, Medieval--Europe. 2. Textile fabrics, Medieval, in art. 3.
Textile industry--Europe--History-- To 1500. 4.
Weaving--Europe--History--To 1500. 5. Weaving in art.
French Cat. info: Jean Touzot Libraire Editeur b TOUZ n JTL00026339 c 350 FRF

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 03:12:31 1999
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From: Viv Watkins <ht40@dial.pipex.com>
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-Poster: Viv Watkins <ht40@dial.pipex.com>

My most dramatic buy was a 1950's black silk chiffon evening dress.  
Fitted bodice cut straight across just above the bust with double ribbon 
straps.  The skirt was very full with about six layers of 
petticoats, ending with two top layers of the chiffon.  Across the front, 
from the bodice down across the skirt, was a spray of appliqued dark red 
velvet roses.  It cost 3 pounds.

I fit like a dream but I never went anywhere grand enough to wear it and 
I ended up donating it to our local Community Theatre Wardrobe.

My most wearable find was a wool challis Geiger skirt (new about 130 
pounds) for 5 pounds, I wore it to bits and it looked great right to the 
end!

The other thing I look out for is linen bed sheets - great for making 
medieval shifts - good quality and pre-softened!

Best wishes.        Viv.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 04:11:12 1999
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

>
> Now, a question somewhat remotly related to the purpose of this list . . .
> What is the most interesting vintage/antique item of clothing you've found
> at such shops? And what did you pay for it? I'd be interested in seeing what
> folk have found in their various locations, being the thrift store junkie
> that I am.
> 
>An organza regency shawl I bought for a £15 at brighton station carboot sale and a pair of edwardian shoes for £5 they threw in the silk braid and fringing.
Last good buy whilst looking for cowby leather gear for a pro childrens
play a versace leather suit from his cowgirl collection for £5 the kids
didn't get their hands on it though as exactly 24 hours after I bought
it he was shot.

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 07:51:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 08:04:49 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: corsets questions
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

TriciaaKuhn wrote:
> 
> hello im new to this stuff the E mail posting and corsetry and i would
> apreciate any help or advice i could get. also i would like to ask if
> anyone out there has a corset pattern for larger sizes than 26 i have
> looked but cant find anything

What period corset are you looking for?  If Elizabethan, have you tried
the corset pattern generator?

Kat
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: farthingales
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 09:21:38 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Is there a formula for determining the width of a Tudor or Elizabethan =
farthingale?  I'm heavy (size 16-18) but very short (5ft).  The one in =
Janet Arnold is the right length for me, but when made up it looks very =
narrow.  Any suggestions?
Andrea

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Is there a formula for determining the width of a =
Tudor or=20
Elizabethan farthingale?&nbsp; I'm heavy (size 16-18) but very short=20
(5ft).&nbsp; The one in Janet Arnold is the right length for me, but =
when made=20
up it looks very narrow.&nbsp; Any suggestions?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: CC20 Progress report 1 txt version
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 17:27:31 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

COSTUME-CON 20
PROGRESS REPORT 1
IS IN THE MAIL!

What follows is a text version of the contents of Costume-Con 20 Progress
Report #1, September, 1999.

If you would like a print copy, contact your local agent or the Australian
Costumers' Guild at one of the addresses at the bottom of this file. For
more information anout the Australian Costumers' Guild, hit our web site,
www.vicnet.net.au/~costume/


COSTUME-CON 20
PROGRESS REPORT, September, 1999

Friday 15-Monday 18 February, 2002
Melbourne Convention Centre,
Melbourne, Australia

FROM THE CHAIRMAN
Dear fellow costumers,

We in Australia are excited to have a Costume-Con on our shores and invite
you to join us for the twentieth anniversary of Costume-Con and the tenth
anniversary of the Australian Costumers' Guild.

The event we plan is vibrant, spectacular and, most of all, useful - a real
opportunity to share knowledge, ideas and techniques.

At Costume-Con 20, you will find everything you expect of a Costume-Con
including historical and Fantasy/SF costume parades (masquerades), Future
Fashion Folio, and lots more displays, exhibits, information sessions and
contests.

Oh, and we're gonna have some fun, too.

We invite you to join us at Costume-Con 20 for a real Australian twist.


Christopher Ballis,
chairman


TEN GOOD REASONS TO VISIT US
1. Benalla Costume Museum
2. Melbourne has been voted the World's Most Livable City
3. Issey Miyaki's red fibreglass bustier
4. Melbourne International Fashion Week coincides with CC20
5. Outlaw Ned Kelly's armour
6. Sean Connery's Highlander costume
7. Sovereign Hill, a self-contained 1850s mining town
8. The chance to meet with an entire continent of costumers
9. Three zoos
10. People travelling to Melbourne may pick up enough frequent flier miles
to pay for plenty of other conventions


TRAVELING...?
We recommend United Airlines, official carriers for Costume-Con 20


Costume-Con 20 is supported by
The Office of the Premier
and Minister for the Arts
and
The Office of the Lord Mayor

SPECIAL THANKS
We bow to, scrape to, and kiss the toes of Denise Kambouris of the
Melbourne Convention & Marketing Bureau .


MARDI GRAS
Just a couple of weeks after Costume-Con 20, the city of Sydney will stage
its annual Mardi Gras, one of the world's largest costumed street parades.

Mardi Gras offers a great opportunity to participate in the parade or gain
experience in the huge workshop specially created for the event.


RUNNING COSTUME-CON 20 (YES, THE V-WORD)
If you would like to take part in the running of Costume-Con, let us know.
Whether you have particular experience or would like to gain some, we'd
love to have you on board.

Costume-Con 20's program includes all the special features you expect of a
Costume-Con including separate Historical and Fantasy/SF costume parades
(masquerades), the Future Fashion Folio design contest, and plenty of other
design and display opportunities.

Five concurrent streams of programming are planned combining lectures and
discussions,  hands-on  workshops and demonstrations, and a few surprises
over the weekend (don't ask now, they're surprises, damnit!).

Do you want to take part? Now is the time to let us know.


HEAD OF PROGRAMMING
Costume-Con 20 programming will encompass workshops, demonstrations,
discussion panels and speaker forums. If you have any suggestions for
program highlights or would like to take part in programming, contact our
director of programming, Wendy Purcell.


WHO THE HELL IS RUNNING THIS THING?
Chairman, Christopher Ballis
Treasurer, David Scanlon
Membership listing, Kathrine Ashton
Programming, Wendy Purcell
USAgent, Cat Devereaux
Canadian Agent, Katherine Jepson
Nth American Travel Assistant, Kate McClure
Government Liaison, Denise Kambouris
Michael F. Kyne
Gail Adams
Lisa Earles

BOARD OF DIRECTORS, ACG
Kathrine Ashton, membership services
Christopher Ballis, president 
Benjamin Carmichael, communications
David Scanlon, treasurer and ambassador at large
Charlie Sweeney, assistant to the board


CONTACT US
Australian Costumers' Guild,
PO Box 322,
Bentleight, 3204
Australia

Tel. (03)9457 4061
        +3 9457 4061

stilskin@netspace.net.au

www.vicnet.net.au/~costume/


VENUE
The Melbourne Convention Centre is in Spencer Street , Melbourne,
overlooking the Yarra River just a hop, skip and a stumble from the Arts
Precinct, the Crown Casino known for its cheap eats places, and the
Melbourne Maritime Museum.

The Centra Hotel is attached to the convention centre and there are several
other hotels within five minutes walk. The convention centre boasts dozens
of program rooms, two theatrettes, and lounge areas.

The You-Yangs Room on the second level  covers over 3,000 square metres,
enabling us to stage the entire convention on a single floor.


CRASH SITES
 Need somewhere to stay before and after the convention? Or do you live in
Melbourne and have a piece of spare carpet, a spare bed or space in the
shed?

Get yourself on our crash site registry now.

The Australian Costumers' Guild will keep a list of crash site wanters and
havers that will be made available closer to Costume-Con 20.


WELCOME!
PEOPLE WHO HAVE JOINED RECENTLY
Morgana Bailey (Aus)
Eileen Capes (Can)
Stephanie Carrigg (USA)
Ann Catelli (USA)
Byron Connell (USA)
Tina Connell (USA)
Anne Dale (Can)
Janice Dallas (USA)
Cat Devereaux (USA)
Kathryn Draves (USA)
Edwin Dyas (Aus)
Elna Estcourt (Aus)
Dina Flockhert (USA)
Suzanne Garcia (USA)
Denice Grardeau (USA)
Steward Hartman (USA)
Janet Hunt (Aus)
Julia Hyll (USA)
Richard Hyll (USA)
Elizabeth Jepson (Can)
Kathrine Jepson (Can)
Kevin Jepson (Can)
Heather Johnson (Aus)
Hon. Jeff Kennett, MLA (Aus)
Alison Kondo (USA)
Jeff Kondo (USA)
Michael F. Kyne (Aus)
Bridget M. Landry (US)
Rebecca Lansbury (Aus)
Catherine Leeson (Can)
Adrienne Losin (Aus)
Elaine Mani (USA)
Carl Mami (USA)
Kate McClure (USA)
Jess Miller (USA)
Cheryl Mitting (Aus)
Pierre Pettinger (USA)
Sandy Pettinger (USA)
Pat Ritter (USA)
James A Roach, Jr. (USA)
Carol Salemi (USA)
Barb Schofield (Can)
Kerith Siddall (Aus)
Fabian Stretton (Aus)
Susan LynnToker (USA)
Jacqueline M. Ward (Can)
Kenneth Warren (USA)
Victoria Warren (USA)
Annette Wilson (Aus)

IF YOU HAVE PAID A DEPOSIT...
If you have paid a deposit on your membership or if you bought
pre-supporting or supporting  membership, now is the time to upgrade. The
sooner your membership is paid, the cheaper it is!


OTHER COSTUME-CONS
Costume-Con 18 - Connecticut, USA
Costume-Con 19 - Calgary, Canada


OUR THANKS TO...
Lincraft, Australia's leading fabric and craft suppliers


MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION
Please accept my membership for Costume-Con 20

Name:
............................................................................
...........

Address:
............................................................................
........

............................................................................
.....................

............................................................................


Telephone (optional): ................................................

E-mail (optional): .....................................................

I agree that (please tick)

[  ]   I understand that I will receive a gold metal kangaroo stick-pin

[  ]   I do not wish to receive a gold metal kangaroo stick pin but
understand that I have no choice and one will be sent to me anyway
      
[  ]   I am a resident of Canada and enclose $C100

[  ]   I am a USA resident and enclose $US60

[  ]   I am an Australian resident and enclose $A100 

[  ]   I enclose a deposit of ............(please keep them to round
numbers, no less than $30) 

Prices valid until December 31, 2000
If your currency is not represented, contact us and we'll see that it is.
Do not send cash in the post.
Send your form and payment to:

Australian Costumers' Guild
PO Box 322,
Bentleigh, 3204
Australia

Katherine Jepson
19 Taraglen Court NE
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
T3J 2M6

Cat Devereaux
6128 Cahuenga Blvd., #102
North Hollywood, CA 91606
USA


Costume-Con is a service mark (sm) controlled by Karen Dick and Kelly
Turner.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 09:37:37 1999
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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Russian persona
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 09:51:27 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, September 24, 1999 09:19
Subject: H-COST: Russian persona


>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>What would a Muscovite man from Moscow Russia in 1599 be wearing?
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>ches@io.com


Francesca, look me up at Steppes business meeting and I can show you exactly

Anya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 09:51:03 1999
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Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 09:55:28 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: farthingales
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I suppose that to be really rabid about it you need to decide which style
of dress you are making. Different countries/styles had different
proportions for their farthingales. For example, the Spanish farthingale
was always relatively narrow (in period) and stayed conical well into the
17th century long after most other fashions had gone to the French/wheel
farthingale. If you are making an early Elizabethan or a Spanish gown
then the proportions of the farthingale will be relatively narrow. I
believe that Ms. Arnold used Alcega as her source for the farthingale
pattern in her book, and being Spanish the proportions would be on the
narrow side. Judging from portraits, the French seem to have preferred a
wider farthingale in general and used more fabric in the skirt to give a
fuller, softer line than the very severe Spanish cone shape. Of course
once you get to the late 80's, they are wearing the very large roll
farthingales on their way to the huge wheel farthingales so the
proportions of skirt to bodice get very big indeed. The English, who were
apparently notorious for borrowing fashions from other places rather than
inventing their own, seem to have liked a medium farthingale in
Elizabeth's reign, with the bell shape of a slightly larger roll over the
farthingale coming into fashion in the 80's just before the wheel
farthingale hits big. The Italians don't seem to have gone much for the
farthingale, in Vecellio many ladies don't look like they are wearing
one, so if they are, it must be quite narrow with lots of skirt on top to
soften the look. I'm not as familiar with German styles during
Elizabeth's reign, but it seems to my very subjective memory that they
also didn't wear large farthingales and used full skirts for a softer
line. Perhaps someone on the list with more German expertise can clarify
that one. 

Measurements of period farthingales that I have seen all seem to have
bottom circumferences around 100 inches with several of them coming in
closer to 90. I am relatively tall and I have made farthingales for
myself that are about 115 to 120 around and they seem fine once all the
skirts are on them. I made one that is 128 around and it almost seems too
big for a really period line. I feel a tad Antebellum in it. Have you
made one of the farthingales from Arnold? And have you put the skirts and
bumrolls and such over it? You may be surprised at how much more visual
size it has with everything in place.

Karen
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-Poster: Gail Smith <gks@execpc.com>

I made a French hood with a wide front band (to hide the fact that I had
very short, layered hair)  To keep it in place, I made a single large
pincurl using the longest hair I had which is at the very top of my
head.  I used a big bobby pin that was sold to hold rollers in peoples'
hair.  Then I took the curved plastic comb that I hand stitched to the
inside of the French hood and slid it under the pincurl.  The heavy
velvet French hood and satin veil stays in place all day, even in the
wind. My hair has since grown out so that I can wear different headgear,
but I still use the pincurl and comb arrangement for the French hood.
--
Gail Smith
gks@execpc.com
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

 if
>> anyone out there has a corset pattern for larger sizes than 26 i have
>> looked but cant find anything
>
>What period corset are you looking for?  If Elizabethan, have you tried
>the corset pattern generator?
>
Yes!  I'm a 26-28, or maybe larger, I don't want to think about that
possiblility.  I made a mockup of Drea's Elizabethan corset yesterday and it
was great.  The only thing was, I had to take 4" off the area where side
seams would normally be.  I don't know if this is because the pattern
distorts a bit in the larger sizes, or, more likely, because we big people
are just "squishier".  At any rate, the fit is lovely and flattering.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 10:34:41 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 08:50:23 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Anyway, I want to make a cal but I can't for the life of me figure out
> how they stay on. Do they have fitted bands around the outside, so they're
> sort of like caps? Is there a drawstring to fit one to the head? Do they need
> tons of pins?

There is evidence in the Museum of London _Textiles and Clothing that many 13th
century cauls were attached to a table woven band.  How they were attached to the
hair, I don't know.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 11:56:26 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: corsets questions
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

More than likely it was due to the fact that those of us that are larger are
"squisher". You can take up more than two inches in a larger person. Whereas
a smaller person that is really all you can take up because a persons bones,
versus the corsets bones, can move only so far.
Carol Ross


> The only thing was, I had to take 4" off the area where side
>seams would normally be.  I don't know if this is because the pattern
>distorts a bit in the larger sizes, or, more likely, because we big people
>are just "squishier".  At any rate, the fit is lovely and flattering.
>
>Margo
>
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 12:08:49 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Muscovite Man
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 16:42:39 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Hope wrote:
> Here's are some neat portraits  of Ivan the Terrible (lived
> 1530-1584)
> http://www.lib.utexas.edu/Libs/PCL/portraits/ivan4.jpg
> 
> and his dad, Ivan the Great (lived 1440 - 1505)
> http://www.lib.utexas.edu/Libs/PCL/portraits/ivan3.jpg

Ivan the T's mother must have had some explaining to do when she got a baby
after the father had been dead 25 years.

;-)

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 13:02:41 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Plaid T-tunics at St Francis of Assisi exhibit
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 19:53:49 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Cynthia B wrote:
> Yesterday, I saw something I've never seen in any of the medieval
> illuminations, paintings or frescoes: gentlemen wearing plaid T-tunics.
> Even more shocking the tunics (2 matching, 1 in a larger scale) were in a
> color combo that the roaring '20s would call "artichoke & coral".
> Admittedly, I'm fairly new to anything earlier than about 1802 costuming
-
> mostly I live & dance in the 19th c., but is this plaid stuff wildly
> atypcial?  It's not clear who these guys are supposed to be, where
they're
> supposed to be from. I'm not familiar with any of the hagiography to make
a
> reasonable guess.
> 
> Photo of fresco on display at the Palace of the Legion of Honor,
> SFrancisco - as you enter the PLA, turn right, back of the hall on the
left.
> Simon Martini (active 1284-1344) "St. Martin being Knighted by Emperor
> Julian".  This fresco is from the the Chapel of St Martin, lower church
in
> the Basilica of St Francis, Assisi, Italy.  Disappointingly, it's not
> reproduced in the tour catalogs or on the postcards.

The occurence of plaid or chequered cloth is not so strange in 14th c
Northern Italy. Besides for clothing (mainly servants and musicians, some
soldiers) it is used for blankets, bed curtains, cushions, wall hangings
and window- or doorcurtains. Striped cloth is also used for these items
overthere. You can already see these last in Giotto (paintings ca
1300-1310). In other countries striped cloths seem to have been in vogue
during some parts of the 13th c: Germany, Spain, Italy (again), Southern
England, perhaps the Low Countries, but I have not had a chance to look
deeply into this. I will, for the new costume book, though.

This type of cloth was fairly cheap. It was woven from wool (or other
fibres?) that was already dyed, be it as fleece or as spun thread. Cloth
dyed when already woven was much more expensive. That's why you hardly ever
see well to do persons wearing multicoloured clothing until the brocade and
embroidered garments started. Church princes and higher nobility, however,
have always had richly embroidered ceremonial garments, all over the
place...

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 13:02:47 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Maciejowski Bible
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 19:57:41 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


Hi,

Robin wrote:
> Henk, if you haven't found a copy through the usual used market by May, I
> will pick one up for you at K'zoo if you like. I've seen copies surface
at
> the used stalls there every year. I can't guarantee you'll get such a
good
> price, though!

Thanks, Robin, but in the mean time I have found out that our Royal Library
has a copy and I am a recent member of this august, but so useful,
institution, so it will take me about a day to browse around in it and find
out about northern French dress of ca 1250. Yippy!

I bought too many books recently, anyway...

Henk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 13:35:18 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 11:45:41 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: OT: Sewing Machine Parts
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Connie wrote:

> There is an antique sewing machine newsgroup which is very friendly and would
> help you find manuals, parts, and accessories for your machine -- no matter
> what brand you choose.

I don't need a machine, but I've got a small problem. I've got a Singer
cabinet machine from circa 1960 and it runs well. Unfortunately, one of the
hinges on the cabinet lid has broken. Does anyone have suggestions on where to
find a replacement hinge?

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 13:41:39 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: TriciaaKuhn <inana@cell2000.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: corsets questions
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-Poster: TriciaaKuhn <inana@cell2000.net>

well im motst inerested in Victorian corsetrie and i have used the duct
tabe pattern method for an Elizabethan bodice but what is the corset
pattern generator?
>What period corset are you looking for?  If Elizabethan, have you tried
>the corset pattern generator?
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: cauls
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 18:55:19 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Tue, 28 Sep 1999 08:50:23 -0700, the following was written in this
electric book by Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>:

>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> Anyway, I want to make a cal but I can't for the life of me figure out
>> how they stay on. Do they have fitted bands around the outside, so they're
>> sort of like caps? Is there a drawstring to fit one to the head? Do they need
>> tons of pins?
>
>There is evidence in the Museum of London _Textiles and Clothing that many 13th
>century cauls were attached to a table woven band.  How they were attached to the
>hair, I don't know.

Probably straight or u-shaped pins, through the dressed, but not yet
decorated, hair. (this is a particular subject of study for me)

Details are fuzzy. Experimentation to follow when I have time :)

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 13:52:53 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 15:05:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men
In-Reply-To: <00bd01bf094c$40e9eca0$ac350418@mckiny1.tx.home.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Yes, I'd appreciate his feedback.  Thanks!

-- Mara


On Mon, 27 Sep 1999, Franchesca Havas wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
> 
> I have a friend that is in the process of doing one for himself. I will ask
> him about it and forward him your email if you like.
> 
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> Dallas, Texas
> motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> To: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 27, 1999 1:37 PM
> Subject: H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men
> 
> 
> :
> : -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> :
> : Has anyone here made a Duct Tape Double for men?  I think it's going to be
> : necessary so that I can get a proper fit for my DH's kit, without driving
> : him nuts with repeated fittings.  Other than the obvious (no foundation
> : garments), what is different from doing this for women?
> :
> : -- Mara
> :
> :
> :  _________________________________________________________________
> :  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> :  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> :
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 13:55:13 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990928.095654.-569127.1.seamstrix@juno.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: farthingales
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 15:18:24 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>


> I suppose that to be really rabid about it you need to decide which style
> of dress you are making. Different countries/styles had different
> proportions for their farthingales

I'm talking about High Tudor, 1535ish Anne Boylen, Jane Seymour type dress.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 14:34:57 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Need instructions/suggestions for making...
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 12:47:52 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Help with what!?


-----Original Message-----
From: DRGurley@aol.com <DRGurley@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>; purinaint@harmonsmith.com
<purinaint@harmonsmith.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 7:17 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Need instructions/suggestions for making...


>
>-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com
>
> Can you help?
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 15:47:56 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Andrea Gideon wrote:
> 
> I'm talking about High Tudor, 1535ish Anne Boylen, Jane Seymour type
> dress.

What I did was take the skirt pattern from the MM Early Tudor pattern
that I was using and make it out of my fabric and then ran channels on
it.  This way the farthingale exactly fit the skirt which, given that
the skirt is not as gathered as later dresses is a plus.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 16:12:00 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

TriciaaKuhn wrote:
> 
> well im motst inerested in Victorian corsetrie and i have used the
> duct tabe pattern method for an Elizabethan bodice but what is the
> corset pattern generator?

http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/custompat/index.html

This is part of a very, very, very nice Elizabethan costume site, so if
you're interested in such... hit the 'home' key and have fun exploring!!

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 16:32:40 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 16:35:35 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: farthingales
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

The early farthingales (to those of us who specialize in the clothes of
Great Harry's Daughter) were relatively narrow and very conical. They
weren't wearing bumrolls at this time as far as I can tell from
silhouette. Once again, don't decide that the farthingale is too narrow
until you have tried it with a few layers of skirt draped around it. Of
course the Tudor farthingales called for a relatively fitted skirt with
most of the gathering at the center back leaving the front nice and
smooth. 

Karen 

On Tue, 28 Sep 1999 15:18:24 -0400 "Andrea Gideon"
<andrea.gideon@erols.com> writes:
> 
> -Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
> 
> 
> > I suppose that to be really rabid about it you need to decide 
> which style
> > of dress you are making. Different countries/styles had different
> > proportions for their farthingales
> 
> I'm talking about High Tudor, 1535ish Anne Boylen, Jane Seymour type 
> dress.
> Andrea
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: cauls
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 18:55:19 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)


-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Tue, 28 Sep 1999 08:50:23 -0700, the following was written in this
electric book by Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>:

>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> Anyway, I want to make a cal but I can't for the life of me figure out
>> how they stay on. Do they have fitted bands around the outside, so they're
>> sort of like caps? Is there a drawstring to fit one to the head? Do they need
>> tons of pins?
>
>There is evidence in the Museum of London _Textiles and Clothing that many 13th
>century cauls were attached to a table woven band.  How they were attached to the
>hair, I don't know.

Probably straight or u-shaped pins, through the dressed, but not yet
decorated, hair. (this is a particular subject of study for me)

Details are fuzzy. Experimentation to follow when I have time :)

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 18:21:40 1999
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From: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re:recycling favorite
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 09:29:08 +1000
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-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>

The pair of cherry red Dr Martens (10 hole) that I found in a UK op shop for
 5. Three years on, and they're going strong.

A John Cavill (reasonably high-end Australian designer) jacket for A$12.

An F cup bra for A$5 (they're hard enough to find new!!)

Knee high lace up fully lined leather boots at a market for A$10.

My parents are now in the habit of asking me "is anything you're wearing
*new* new?".

Georgia
Boot-hound and second-hand queen!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 18:24:03 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 06:26:34 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: counter argument:on NOT going into business
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Some examples: costumed docent
>at a Calif State Historical Park, performing member of a historical dance
>troupe.

Or working as a paid employee of Ren. Faire?


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 18:24:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 06:45:09 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bodice Fitting challenge
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>She would like something that holds them up somewhat, keeping them held in
>place for comfort, without pushing them up to her chin.  I'm not sure where
>to start patterning something like this.  Can anyone offer advice? 

Fit the bottom of the bodice to her ribs, so she has a waist, and a
difference between it and the top of the bodice.  Then use the gnarliest
structural-weight bones you have, but don't expect to cantilever all that
soft tissue straight out from the ribs.  Shoulder straps will help.
Generate a nice curve from the ribs to the widest part.  And be sure to
make the bodice long enough in the front.  Don't let her sag all the way
down inside the bodice nor spill out the top.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 18:24:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 06:20:46 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats...??
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>If you look at paintings by Lucas Cranach, the skirts on the womens' gowns
>look like rolled pleats.  I don't know for a fact that they are, but
>rolled pleats produce an effect like these skirts--long, tubular pleats,
>which hang straight from the waist to the hem. I usually make my pleats 1
>inch wide at the top.  
>
>I'll be putting a web page up with diagrams of different kinds of pleats
>soon.  Hopefully pictures will help.

When I look at the Cranach paintings, I see these cool pleats which
disappear when the ladies aren't standing still.  All trace of the pleat
vanishes when the skirt spreads out over anything.  How can they both be
stitched all the way down and show no trace of such stitching when the
skirt is spread out flat?

BTW, I have a long skirted vest from someplace in the Balkans (Roumania?)
which has the skirt made from trapezoid-shaped pieces, one per pleat.  It's
unlined, and all the insides show - including the raw edges.  (It's very
coarse and heavy wool, so the edges only frayed so far, then felted in
place.)  The pleats hang just like those on the stationary women in the
Cranach paintings.  From the outside these pleats are a little asymmetric,
as they are just flat pleated onto the body of the vest.  It's the
thickness of the wool (blanket weight) which gives them their nice shape.
(It's my 11-year-old's size, but it still weighs a ton.)  

I used this vest as a model for a German Ren. skirt I did, stiffening the
tops of each trapezoid before cartridge pleating, one trapezoid per pleat,
and it stayed pleated, moved well, etc.  It too weighed a ton.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 18:24:22 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 06:22:23 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: French womans 1520's clothing
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>I would like to make an dress to match the same time period as my husbands
>with the exception that I want to do my persona's country. I have looked
>some and have come up pretty empty on artwork for women's French clothing in
>the 1520's. So if someone out there can help me find some artwork that would
>be appropriate I would appreciate it. Thank you,

Look at tapestries of the period.  They have lots of dresses from right
about there/then.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 18:24:54 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 05:54:57 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: German costuming books
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SUN.3.90.990922085830.9810A-100000@muon>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>There is a series of books in the library here called 'Die Mode' I think. 
>The first one is on the middle ages and then one for each century afterwards.
>My German is pretty minimal so I don't read the text but they have lots of
>pictures, mainly of course German ones, but a reasonable no. from elsewhere
>which is what I look at it for.

My German is not even up to translating books from this series, but I
absolutely treasure my 4 volumes.  Mine cover the late 1700's thru the
early 1900's.  They have pictures I have never seen elsewhere, including
the original for the wrong-looking short sleeved white ruffly Victorian
dress Scarlet O'Hara wears in the older 'Gone With the Wind' film.  The one
in the film looks just like the original, I'm sorry to have to say.


Kayta
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats...??
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>BTW, I have a long skirted vest from someplace in the Balkans (Roumania?)
>which has the skirt made from trapezoid-shaped pieces, one per pleat.  It's
>unlined, and all the insides show - including the raw edges.  (It's very
>coarse and heavy wool, so the edges only frayed so far, then felted in
>place.)  The pleats hang just like those on the stationary women in the
>Cranach paintings. 

Oooh!  Does this remind anyone else of those stitched welts on the Shinrone
gown?  


Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: cauls
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 21:49:11 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Missed Karen's explanation, but I'll barge in.  A hair
ribbon (called a snood until at least the Regency period) is
threaded through the outer edge of the netting, and this is
tied snug to the head, sometimes by wrapping it around the
head and hair 2 or 3 times.  Roman women used to *knot * and
curl their hair, according to Strutt, so slickness was
probably not a big deal.  I get the idea the mesh was used
to hold jewels on the hair, not so much as a bag to
structurally support the weight of the hair. The knots and
the ribbon wound round 2 or 3 times provided the structural
support.  In any event, the Romans used pins and probably
sticks, an either of these, particularly placed across each
other, would help hold it on too, as well as hold the knots
of hair in place.

Instructions for netting hairnets in the 1838  Workwoman's
Guide talk about threading a ribbon through the outer edge
of the netted hairnet as the finishing step.  I think the
crocheted snood may be a 20th century thing, maybe even
1970's, but that's just a guess on my part.

Hope



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of seamstrix@juno.com
> Sent: Monday, September 27, 1999 10:39 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: cauls
>
>
>
> -Poster: seamstrix@juno.com
>
> As I construct them, cauls are just gathered onto a
regular band. The
> trick is to make them snug to your head (not tight, not
> loose, just snug)
> and then use one comb sewn into the center front. When you
> wear it, the
> comb will sit in front of the highest part of your skull,
> which on me is
> a bit more than halfway back. Remember that the caul is
worn
> on the back
> of the head so the band will sit behind the ears. I know
that
> there are
> some ladies who have very slick hair, I don't know what to
> tell you. But
> I have waist length, very thick hair and even if I just
stuff
> it up into
> the caul without making a bun or anything, a well fitted
caul with one
> comb holds everything just fine thru vigorous walking and
Italian Ren
> dancing. And since the surface area ia quite small, they
are great for
> going all out in decoration. I usually make a caul to
match
> each set of
> sleeves/foreparts.
>
> Karen
>
> On Mon, 27 Sep 1999 08:54:16 EDT Gaelscot@aol.com writes:
> >
> > -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Karen's posts on the difference between snoods and cauls
> reminded me
> > of a
> > question I have never seen answered. Maybe I just
haven't looked in
> > the right
> > place. Anyway, I want to make a cal but I can't for the
life of me
> > figure out
> > how they stay on. Do they have fitted bands around the
outside, so
> > they're
> > sort of like caps? Is there a drawstring to fit one to
the head? Do
> > they need
> > tons of pins?
> >
> > Gail Finke
> >
> >
____________________________________________________________
_____
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
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>
____________________________________________________________
_____
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 19:21:36 1999
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: New Treadle machines!
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 17:34:20 -0700
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

While I was stationed in Frankfurt, Germany, I noticed that the Post and
Base exchanges carried Pfaff hand crank machines (new).  These could be
converted to treadle if the person wanted.  A friend of my husband's came
through and bought 5 of them for his village in Nigeria (he was a real
African American, having been born in Africa and emigrated to the States,
rather than simply an American of largely African ancestry).  They were so
well received and sturdy that he bought 5 more when he came through again a
year later.  At that time they were $99 packed in a nicely curved topped
wooden box that I kept eyeing because it would have made such a nice
reliquary!

Regina Romsey

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 19:32:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 11:45:41 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: OT: Sewing Machine Parts
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-id: <37F0AA62.DFDA2471@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>


-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Connie wrote:

> There is an antique sewing machine newsgroup which is very friendly and would
> help you find manuals, parts, and accessories for your machine -- no matter
> what brand you choose.

I don't need a machine, but I've got a small problem. I've got a Singer
cabinet machine from circa 1960 and it runs well. Unfortunately, one of the
hinges on the cabinet lid has broken. Does anyone have suggestions on where to
find a replacement hinge?

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19990928.095654.-569127.1.seamstrix@juno.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: farthingales
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 15:18:24 -0400
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>


-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <andrea.gideon@erols.com>


> I suppose that to be really rabid about it you need to decide which style
> of dress you are making. Different countries/styles had different
> proportions for their farthingales

I'm talking about High Tudor, 1535ish Anne Boylen, Jane Seymour type dress.
Andrea

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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Need instructions/suggestions for making...
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 12:47:52 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>


-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Help with what!?


-----Original Message-----
From: DRGurley@aol.com <DRGurley@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>; purinaint@harmonsmith.com
<purinaint@harmonsmith.com>
Date: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 7:17 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Need instructions/suggestions for making...


>
>-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com
>
> Can you help?
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 19:32:57 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 12:00:16 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: TriciaaKuhn <inana@cell2000.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: corsets questions
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-Poster: TriciaaKuhn <inana@cell2000.net>


-Poster: TriciaaKuhn <inana@cell2000.net>

well im motst inerested in Victorian corsetrie and i have used the duct
tabe pattern method for an Elizabethan bodice but what is the corset
pattern generator?
>What period corset are you looking for?  If Elizabethan, have you tried
>the corset pattern generator?
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 15:05:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men
In-Reply-To: <00bd01bf094c$40e9eca0$ac350418@mckiny1.tx.home.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>


-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Yes, I'd appreciate his feedback.  Thanks!

-- Mara


On Mon, 27 Sep 1999, Franchesca Havas wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
> 
> I have a friend that is in the process of doing one for himself. I will ask
> him about it and forward him your email if you like.
> 
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> Dallas, Texas
> motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> To: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 27, 1999 1:37 PM
> Subject: H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men
> 
> 
> :
> : -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> :
> : Has anyone here made a Duct Tape Double for men?  I think it's going to be
> : necessary so that I can get a proper fit for my DH's kit, without driving
> : him nuts with repeated fittings.  Other than the obvious (no foundation
> : garments), what is different from doing this for women?
> :
> : -- Mara
> :
> :
> :  _________________________________________________________________
> :  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> :  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> :
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 20:06:05 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 17:46:53 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats...??
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>When I look at the Cranach paintings, I see these cool pleats which
>disappear when the ladies aren't standing still.  All trace of the pleat
>vanishes when the skirt spreads out over anything.  How can they both be
>stitched all the way down and show no trace of such stitching when the
>skirt is spread out flat?

Some do and some don't, but as I've said several times now, organ pipe
pleats do not have to be sewn all the way down to the hem. Only a 4-6" seam
is needed at the waist to do the job. The tapes only need to go down to
about the hip, so they can still spread quite a bit.

>I used this vest as a model for a German Ren. skirt I did, stiffening the
>tops of each trapezoid before cartridge pleating, one trapezoid per pleat,
>and it stayed pleated, moved well, etc.  It too weighed a ton.
>
>
>Kayta

Technically each organ pipe pleat is a long narrow trapezoid. Are you sure
we aren't talking about the same thing?

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 20:22:52 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Italian Caftans
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 20:53:54 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Jacqueline Herald in *Dress in Renaissance Italy 1450-1550*
describes the intense craze in Italy during the Renaissance
for Ottoman caftans.  They Italian kings and nobles adored
the exoticism and comfort of the garments.  Caftans were a
preferred gift from their Turkish trading partners, and
there was an intense trade.  Parties were held in the courts
where the caftans were the only permitted wear for days!

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Susan Fatemi
> Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 1999 12:05 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: What is this picture?
>
>
>
> -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
>
> Elizabeth Jones wrote:
> >
> > What is this garment?
> >
> >
>
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/H
ig
h.Italian.Renaissance/CJ38.gif
>

I see it says renaissance, but it looks like an Ottoman
(or Persian?) caftan with those long false sleeves.

Susan F.

--
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: unmatched bodice and skirts
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, September 27, 1999 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: unmatched bodice and skirts


>
>-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>
>>       I found this today.  The bodice and  skirt are unmatched and the
>>sleeves match the skirt.
>>http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/High.Italian.Re
naiss
>>ance/CJ05.jpg
>
>Hard to say, but this could be an apron too. I have seen a number of German
>Renn. peasant dresses and even an upper class one or two that are unmatched
>though. Sometimes people do mistake one of the apron styles (one that goes
>all the way around with a smocked waist) as an overskirt, but there are
>several that are clearly unmatched that you can even see the apron.
>Breugel has some in various paintings and there is a series of tapestries
>of the seasons that show some clearly. Unmatched skirts/bodices tends to be
>a lower class thing in the earlier period 16th c Germany at least...
>
>Julie Adams
>


Julie,
  The skirt section looks cartrige pleated to me, not smocked.  I know what
you mean about those aprons though. There was another picture that I found
and after I sent it to the list, I realized that it was an apron. Fooled me!
These unmatched portraits are so rare that I was thrilled to find this one.
Michelle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Sep 28 22:59:38 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 23:09:30 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: recycling and duct tape double
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>> What is the most interesting vintage/antique item of clothing you've found
>> at such shops? And what did you pay for it? 
1. The black wool crepe skirt suit ('30's? '40's?) with velveteen collar
that fit my size 3 sister-in-law perfectly - about $5 at the annual
Community playhouse garage sale.
2. The orange-yellow-amber starburst rhinestone brooch I finally sold to
someone else because I don't usually wear that color - it was an oval about
5" x 3" - bigger than my fist!

Re: Duct tape doubles for men:

I did one for my husband, but we didn't stop at the torso - we did a
full-body mannequin!  It took about 5 big rolls of tape.  Foundation was a
cheap set of long underwear, and old socks.  It took about 3 hours.  You
need to cut from the neck down to the hip line, cut up from the wrists, and
slit the legs at the ankle, to get out of it.  It worked, though. Don't
remember now what we were making.  I think it's still in the basement.

I don't think he wants to do it again, though. <veg>

Sandy

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Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 22:43:44 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bodice Fitting challenge
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>I have just been presented with a formidable problem:  I have a friend who
>would like a Ren Faire "wench" bodice.  She's a largish woman, maybe a size
>20, except that she has very large breasts.  I believe she said a J cup.
>They are (each) larger than her head, and not surprisingly hang to her
>waistline.  
>She would like something that holds them up somewhat, keeping them held in
>place for comfort, without pushing them up to her chin.  I'm not sure where
>to start patterning something like this.  Can anyone offer advice? 

There's a decent simplicity pattern out.. that wench one :] I don't know if
you would want to use the seams that go diagonally across the chest, but it
is *very* supportive, and you would be able to adjust it for the formidable
cup size. 

Kris

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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


I've seen fabric called "cupro" advertized, can anyone tell me what 
it is?

Thanks



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 05:31:20 1999
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-Poster: Meliora & Drake <meliora@macquarie.matra.com.au>

Greetings all,

I'e just resubscribed after a long absence so please bear with me while
I ask some truly ignorant questions.

I have recently read Kass McGann's article on the Shinrone Gown (both on
her website and in TI 130) and am considering having a go at making one.

Has this been discussed on the list before?
How do I access/search the archives?
If the list is sick of this topic (how would I know - I haven't been on)
could someone please advise me privately.

I would like to read what has been said about this dress before I start
asking the same basic questions over again.

Thanks for your patience and assistance

Mel.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 06:47:43 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:00:35 -0400
From: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Patterns etc
To: all <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>

Apologies if you are already aware of this, but I thought it might be of
interest!

At my 'Antique Costume & Textiles Fair' last week, Lindy Pickard and Dave
Rushworth were selling a whole load of patterns and handbooks - I think
they have only recently started their business.

Their 45 patterns cover a number of periods : Viking, Medieval, 16thC,
English Civil War, 18thC, 19thC  -  and range from trousers, tunics,
doublets, hose, breeches, frock coats etc  in a wide range of sizes.

Their handbooks include : Medieval Women, medieval men, How to make
Medieval Shoes, 17thC Women, 1798 French Revolutionary Uniform, 1812-15
French Infantry Uniform.
They also sell natural fibre textiles, buttons etc.

Their business is called Petty Chapman and is based in Yorkshire UK.  Tele:
+44 (0) 1484.512968

If anyone wants more information and their address, please get in touch
with me.  I also have a full list of the available patterns and handbooks.

(I have no connection with them - just passing information along!)

Margaret
antique costume & textiles
http://www.artizania.co.uk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 07:09:57 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:23:21 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Cupro...?
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

There are two different processes for making rayon:  the viscose process and 
the cuprammonium process.  Different solvents are used to dissolve the 
cellulose.  I believe the cuprammonium process was abandoned in the U.S. 
because of environmental concerns, but I presume it is being produced in 
Europe or Asia.  It is finer, softer, and stronger than viscose rayon.  
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 07:36:16 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:48:02 -0400
From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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-Poster: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>

(I'm not obsessing on these images, really I'm not!) (x-posted to sca-garb)

I've been looking at the Tudor images again
(http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor) and want to propose two
ideas. What do you think?

1) The gown, specifically the neckline and sides of front opening in
skirt, was bound with cording, piping or some kind of trim. (see
particularly the close-up of the early Catherine of Aragon and the Young
Mary 1)

2) The jeweled or ribbon decorative neck trim was often affixed to the
undergown/kirtle, not to the overgown, but showed at the neckline
because the kirtle neck opening was cut higher than the gown neck opening.

What do you think? Crazy or has this always been obvious/accepted and I
just missed it?

- Alice Nele
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 10:14:48 1999
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Picture Puzzle...?
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Can anyone give me any idea why this image

http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/Elizab
ethan.Men/CN08.gif

is included in a set labelled Elizabethan *men*...?  Or am I seeing 
three women when it is really a picture of 3 men?

Just curious



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 10:25:06 1999
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From: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Picture Puzzle...?
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 08:40:24 -0700
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-Poster: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>

That's a notorious picture of Henri III of France's "mignons".  Men who put
ribbons in their hair, duelled like demons, and were very close friends of
the king.

---
Elizabeth Hanes Perry
Rogue Wave Software 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: teddy1 [mailto:teddy1@mdx.ac.uk]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 12:24 PM
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Picture Puzzle...?
> 
> 
> 
> -Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> 
> Can anyone give me any idea why this image
> 
> http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/Elizab
> ethan.Men/CN08.gif
> 
> is included in a set labelled Elizabethan *men*...?  Or am I seeing 
> three women when it is really a picture of 3 men?
> 
> Just curious
> 
> 
> 
> Teddy
> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> air and darkness, apparently!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 10:34:13 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 11:46:40 EDT
Subject: H-COST: grommets or buttonhole?: Was Raglan sleeves
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-Poster: Kwhykelly@aol.com

Looking at the picture I could not tell if the dress had grommets, lacing 
rings or buttonhole.

What do you think?

Kristi Kelly
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 10:39:29 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 11:51:59 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Were they just outrageous for kicks, or were they transvestite lovers of
the king?

Betsy Perry wrote:
> That's a notorious picture of Henri III of France's "mignons".  Men who put
> ribbons in their hair, duelled like demons, and were very close friends of
> the king.
--
The most outrageous lies that can be invented will find believers if a
person only tells them with all his might. --  Mark Twain
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Subject: H-COST: How to reproduce the hat?: was Raglan sleeves
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-Poster: Kwhykelly@aol.com

Hi again, missed the lurker's day so I'm making up for it today.

Looking at the hat in the picture, it looks like a strip of 3-4 inch cloth 
wrapped into a wheel.  Would this be wired to keep it together?  Would I tac 
it in various spots? Also, what sort of fabric would I use for it? Would I be 
able to cheat and use that fancy wired ribbon in white satin or a brocade?

Also, the woman is wearing her hair down under this, is this only a style for 
young women/maidens, or is this a common style for women of all ages.

Thanks

Kristi Kelly
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

I'm assuming you mean the Fram Air Filter Hat on Mary Madgalen by Rogier van der
Weyden.  Simplicity has this exact hat in a pattern right now.  I personally
wouldn't wear this hat because it's allegorical, not accurate but hey, you can
find a complete instruction guide on the pattern.  :)

A favor?  Please include more information in your replies (or a quote from the
original post) because it's hard to tell what it is you're asking about.  :)
Cynthia

Kwhykelly@aol.com wrote:

> -Poster: Kwhykelly@aol.com
>
> Hi again, missed the lurker's day so I'm making up for it today.
>
> Looking at the hat in the picture, it looks like a strip of 3-4 inch cloth
> wrapped into a wheel.  Would this be wired to keep it together?  Would I tac
> it in various spots? Also, what sort of fabric would I use for it? Would I be
> able to cheat and use that fancy wired ribbon in white satin or a brocade?
>
> Also, the woman is wearing her hair down under this, is this only a style for
> young women/maidens, or is this a common style for women of all ages.
>
> Thanks
>
> Kristi Kelly
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 11:13:13 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 12:25:34 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: How to reproduce the hat?: was Raglan sleeves
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-Poster: Kwhykelly@aol.com

'm assuming you mean the Fram Air Filter Hat on Mary Madgalen by Rogier van 
der
Weyden.  Simplicity has this exact hat in a pattern right now.  I personally
wouldn't wear this hat because it's allegorical, not accurate but hey, you can
find a complete instruction guide on the pattern.  :)

A favor?  Please include more information in your replies (or a quote from the
original post) because it's hard to tell what it is you're asking about.  :)
Cynthia

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----

Sorry, not familar with AOL yet, old mail would just tack my responce to old 
mail.

So, the hat is not something that was worn?  What sort of head dressing would 
have been worn with this dress.

Most times I have a difficult time telling reality from allegorical or just 
plain fantasy in the earlier art.

Thanks

Kristi Kelly
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 11:22:06 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Caftan/Simar/Italian Renaissance
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/text/Italian.Renaissance/CJ38.html

I had asked about this garment as it was listed in the "High Italian
Ren" section of the Tulane Costume section. At the time I did not know
there was any text available, which is why I asked. Going back and being
a little more deliberate, I see it is stated as "Caftan of Beyazit II
(1447-1513) Costume Gallery, Topkapi Saray Museum, Istanbul. It also
states: "This is the caftan brought to Italy and developed into the
simar."

I am not sure where that statement comes from (sounds very
authoritative, doesn't it?), but perhaps this is how legends or myths
get started! I wonder if an evolution of this was the English
embroidered jackets late in the 16th century? I cannot remember seeing a
relation to this in Italian costuming of the early 16th century, so I
don't know how it evolved. Actually, portraits or jackets in general are
scarce in Italian fashion.

At any rate, I was not familiar with the term "simar" so I looked it up
in my Costume Language book. (I must add that recent discussion here
have made me use this book, previously collecting dust, and it is
performing very well - it seems to have all the terms I need, albeit
brief ones)

SIMAR: Fem, Short jacket for indoors wear of velvet, plush or brocade.
Jacket edges and long sleeves fur trimmed. Worn in the Netherlands and
American Colonies. 17th and 18th centuries. (see also SAMARRE)

SAMARRE: Fem, (basically same as above, "sometimes furtrimmed", but
also:) Worn over full silk skirt. Depicted by Dutch Masters, Vermeer,
etc.

"Hope  wrote: Jacqueline Herald in *Dress in Renaissance Italy
1450-1550*
describes the intense craze in Italy during the Renaissance
for Ottoman caftans.  They Italian kings and nobles adored
the exoticism and comfort of the garments.  Caftans were a
preferred gift from their Turkish trading partners, and
there was an intense trade.  Parties were held in the courts
where the caftans were the only permitted wear for days!

Susan Fatemi wrote: I see it says renaissance, but it looks like an
Ottoman
(or Persian?) caftan with those long false sleeves.


Regards,

Liz Jones

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To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Picture Puzzle...?
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-Poster: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>

> Betsy Perry wrote:
> > That's a notorious picture of Henri III of France's 
> "mignons".  Men who put
> > ribbons in their hair, duelled like demons, and were very 
> close friends of
> > the king.

> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> 
> Were they just outrageous for kicks, or were they 
> transvestite lovers of
> the king?
> 

Um, yes.  ;-)  They were being outrageous for kicks, they did cross-dress,
as did Henri III, and they were believed to be the king's lovers.  I don't
know what modern historians believe about whether the relationship was
physical or not.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 11:41:52 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Sorry, not familar with AOL yet, old mail would just tack my responce to old
> mail.

No problem.  :)

> So, the hat is not something that was worn?  What sort of head dressing would
> have been worn with this dress.
> Most times I have a difficult time telling reality from allegorical or just
> plain fantasy in the earlier art.

Well, for me, there are two questions I ask.  Who is wearing the item?  Have I
seen it worn anywhere or on anyone else?

In this case Mary Magdalen is wearing it, a saint, a dead give away that it isn't
typical.  And I don't think I've seen another Fram Air Filter hat.  (*GGG* Sorry,
can't help it, a friend called it that and I was done for *GGG*)

In the case of say, turbans, these were used to depict someone as foreign, like
the three wise men.

So, the wearer, if either a religious person or saint or a person of foreign
persuasion (foreign to the painter or country), it might very well be allegorical.

Cynthia


>
>
> Thanks
>
> Kristi Kelly
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> > > That's a notorious picture of Henri III of France's
> > "mignons".  Men who put ribbons in their hair, duelled like demons,
>
> Um, yes.  ;-)  They were being outrageous for kicks, they did cross-dress,
> as did Henri III, and they were believed to be the king's lovers.  I don't
> know what modern historians believe about whether the relationship was
> physical or not.

I guess what we can say for sure is that they aren't Elizabethan.  They're
French.  Right?  What would the costume era be termed in late 16th century
France?

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: How to reproduce the hat?: was Raglan sleeves
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 18:47:06 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Wed, 29 Sep 1999 12:25:34 EDT, the following was written in this
electric book by Kwhykelly@aol.com:

>What sort of head dressing would 
>have been worn with this dress.
http://152.19.254.81/wm/paint/auth/weyden/magdalen.jpg

Well, first off, the dress she's seen wearing is her underdress, over
which would have gone a fashionable gown (as is indicated by the fancy
embroidered/brocaded sleeve). Which type of fashionable gown? Probably
some type of high-waisted houppelande, but I couldn't tell you which
variation. She's shown in her underwear because it is a painterly
device indicating emotional distress or mourning. The center panel of
the triptych (which is not part of this online exhibit, but is in one
of my many art references) depicts Christ being placed in his tomb by
his freinds and family, while she watches, sadly introspective, from
this panel. This is, presumably, *why* she's upset.

To answer your question about the lacing holes (posed in a nother
message), they are likely worked holes, made by working open the
fabric with an awl and then stitching round the holes to secure them,
one at a time. Grommets were not introduced until much later, and the
lacing clearly goes through the holes, which you will see if you get
REALLY close to your monitor and look (if your monitor is dim, try
setting the brightness higher) - some go over, some go under.

 Poorer women likely did wear just the kirtle (underdress) with pin-on
sleeves, but their sleeves would have been plain for ease of washing
or cost-effectiveness. That style of dress probably evolved into the
type of dress peasant women wore fairly commonly in the late
16th-17thcenturies.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 13:47:17 1999
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From: "Jose & Linda" <mamc@sat.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How to reproduce the hat?: was Raglan sleeves
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 14:03:38 -0500
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-Poster: "Jose & Linda" <mamc@sat.net>

Does anyone by any chance know where to find period patterns for 14th
century italian ladies?thanks stella
-----Original Message-----
From: StrangeGirl <rio@austin.rr.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 1:54 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: How to reproduce the hat?: was Raglan sleeves


>
>-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
>
>On Wed, 29 Sep 1999 12:25:34 EDT, the following was written in this
>electric book by Kwhykelly@aol.com:
>
>>What sort of head dressing would
>>have been worn with this dress.
>http://152.19.254.81/wm/paint/auth/weyden/magdalen.jpg
>
>Well, first off, the dress she's seen wearing is her underdress, over
>which would have gone a fashionable gown (as is indicated by the fancy
>embroidered/brocaded sleeve). Which type of fashionable gown? Probably
>some type of high-waisted houppelande, but I couldn't tell you which
>variation. She's shown in her underwear because it is a painterly
>device indicating emotional distress or mourning. The center panel of
>the triptych (which is not part of this online exhibit, but is in one
>of my many art references) depicts Christ being placed in his tomb by
>his freinds and family, while she watches, sadly introspective, from
>this panel. This is, presumably, *why* she's upset.
>
>To answer your question about the lacing holes (posed in a nother
>message), they are likely worked holes, made by working open the
>fabric with an awl and then stitching round the holes to secure them,
>one at a time. Grommets were not introduced until much later, and the
>lacing clearly goes through the holes, which you will see if you get
>REALLY close to your monitor and look (if your monitor is dim, try
>setting the brightness higher) - some go over, some go under.
>
> Poorer women likely did wear just the kirtle (underdress) with pin-on
>sleeves, but their sleeves would have been plain for ease of washing
>or cost-effectiveness. That style of dress probably evolved into the
>type of dress peasant women wore fairly commonly in the late
>16th-17thcenturies.
>
>Margery
>"Do you have any files?"
>"We're the government, of course we have files."
>Millenium
>{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 14:08:57 1999
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From: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>
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-Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>

At 23.45 +0100 99-09-27, StitchWitch wrote:
>Now, a question somewhat remotly related to the purpose of this list . . .
>What is the most interesting vintage/antique item of clothing you've found
>at such shops? And what did you pay for it? I'd be interested in seeing what
>folk have found in their various locations, being the thrift store junkie
>that I am.

	I just made the best find I've done in years. (At a Salvation Army
store.) A winter coat from (I think) the mid 60s, which I paid 95 Swedish
kronor for (about 7.5 pounds / 11.5 dollars). It's made from dark, greyish
brown wool, with a beige-brown mink-collar. It fits me like a dream, and it
has apparently never been worn! It's very interestingly cut: the back part
of the arm is cut in one with the back, something I've never seen before.

/Ninni Pettersson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 14:22:10 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I guess what we can say for sure is that they aren't Elizabethan.  They're
>French.  Right?  What would the costume era be termed in late 16th century
>France?

I'd call it "late 16th Century French".  It''s a bit cumbersome, but not as
silly as "French Elizabethan".

Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 14:27:16 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 14:48:38 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Medieval clothing glossary
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Since the question has come up once or twice recently, and I get bored
easily, 
I'm thinking about compiling a gloss of medieval clothing terms.  The basic 
"seed" is at the clothing site
http://www.geocities.com/athens/parthenon/5923/cloth/bockhome.html

If anyone has any comments, contributions, whatnot, please let me know.

Marc
Marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 14:28:59 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I just came from the tiny thrift store in my tiny town,  where I found a 50
yard roll of bone casing and a 100 yard roll of corset lacing.  I paid $5.50
for both.

I'm probably the only person in town who would even know what it was, let
alone buy it.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 14:48:53 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval clothing glossary
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 19:57:02 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Message-ID: <37f76cfd.328282819@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
References: <3.0.6.32.19990929144838.0079e8c0@pop.utulsa.edu>
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Wed, 29 Sep 1999 14:48:38 -0500, the following was written in this
electric book by Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>:

>Since the question has come up once or twice recently, and I get bored
>easily, 
>I'm thinking about compiling a gloss of medieval clothing terms.  The basic 
>"seed" is at the clothing site
>http://www.geocities.com/athens/parthenon/5923/cloth/bockhome.html
>
>If anyone has any comments, contributions, whatnot, please let me know.

<cheering, shouting and general happy sounds> This needed to be done
by someone who specializes in the period concerned. I'm glad it's you.
Your scholarship is outstanding.

If it's helpful, one of my particular areas of interest is
spinning/weaving and the study of the history of textile production. I
would be happy to contribute definitions/drawings and give
bibliographic sources for all of the above.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199909291940.MAA02990@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
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-Poster: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>

Congratulations on your wonderful finds.  How do you plan to tip the corset
lacing?

Martha K
----- Original Message -----
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling


>
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> I just came from the tiny thrift store in my tiny town,  where I found a
50
> yard roll of bone casing and a 100 yard roll of corset lacing.  I paid
$5.50
> for both.
>
> I'm probably the only person in town who would even know what it was, let
> alone buy it.
>
> Margo
>
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 17:13:49 -0400
From: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

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What would the costume era be termed in late 16th century France?

I think Valois is the correct family at that time, but late 16th century
France  works for me!

Liz Jones

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 16:17:50 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> What would the costume era be termed in late 16th century France?
>
> I think Valois is the correct family at that time, but late 16th century
> France  works for me!

Oh yes!  I heard that term the other night.  Okay.  :)
Cynthia


--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 16:24:29 1999
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Children's clothing of 1870's
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 17:04:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>


	Teddy asked about good sources for details for the clothing of a
small girl (6 - 10 yrs)....

	In her book, "Dressed for the Photographer", Joan Severa has
details on just this in the 1870's section.  She tells about the fabric,
colors, and styles from the inside out.  If you need specific pages, please
let me know and I will forward that information to you.

	Connie Fairchild
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 17:10:35 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Caftan/Simar/Italian Renaissance
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 29 Sep 1999, Elizabeth Jones wrote:

> At any rate, I was not familiar with the term "simar" so I looked it up
> in my Costume Language book. (I must add that recent discussion here
> have made me use this book, previously collecting dust, and it is
> performing very well - it seems to have all the terms I need, albeit
> brief ones)
> 
> SIMAR: Fem, Short jacket for indoors wear of velvet, plush or brocade.
> Jacket edges and long sleeves fur trimmed. Worn in the Netherlands and
> American Colonies. 17th and 18th centuries. (see also SAMARRE)
> 
> 
Wasn't 'simar' also a word used for the Henry VII era men's long gown?
The one with big furry lapels? I'm sure I've seen it called that
somewhere.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 17:22:43 1999
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I have finished a 1699 mantua and fontage. My undying gratitude to Bjarne 
Drews for his assistance in describing how he put together the fontage and 
fastened the "bustle" of the dress. While I think this is probably the single 
most unattractive garment ever designed for women, I must say that everything 
worked and the darn thing looks like it should. I made it for a ball honoring 
the 300th anniversary of the founding of Williamsburg. Since there are 
several houses in the area dating from the late 17th/early 18th century, I 
will have the opportunity to wear it again at special programs I participate 
in.

The gown is made of a heavy mulberry damask with a large 17th century 
stylized floral pattern-- several old sets of drapes, actually, that have 
discolored a bit over time. No one has noticed this because all the events I 
have worn the mantua to have been candle-lit. The pattern I drafted seems to 
be typical since it shows up in Hunnisett, Bradfield, and "The Cut of Women's 
Clothes"  -- pretty much identical.

The mantua has elbow-length sleeves with a small cuff, revers,and sewn-down 
pleats (for shaping) in the back. It has a stomacher of matching fabric (with 
the pattern centered on it) that pins onto the corset with tabs, then is 
further held on by cross lacing using lacing rings sewn inside the gown. The 
lacing is maroon ribbon. I basted long lace ruffles onto the inside of the 
sleeves. The train of the gown is pulled up in the center back and buttoned 
(with loops) into a "fountain"

The chemise also has plainer ruffles (at elbows and neckline) and is of a 
striped batiste.

The petticoat is mauve  with tiny fleurs de lys stamped on it.

The fontage is made of very stiff organza, which meant that I didn't have to 
starch it. It is cut according to the pattern in "Evolution of Fashion" 
(1710?). The cap of the fontage is tacked to a buckram hat form and the 
pleated front part is wired to it. Maroon ribbons encircle the cap. 
Miraculously, the fontage does not droop, but sits at the appropriate angle 
and stays there. 

If I can, I will scan a photo of me in the dress and offer it for observation 
and comment.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 18:26:12 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 16:38:37 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
In-Reply-To: <v04011709b415b860bd89@[172.19.1.35]>
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>>-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
>>Now, a question somewhat remotly related to the purpose of this list . . .
>>What is the most interesting vintage/antique item of clothing you've found
>>at such shops? And what did you pay for it? I'd be interested in seeing what
>>folk have found in their various locations, being the thrift store junkie
>>that I am.

Just this week, I found this great winter jacket from the early '70's (baby
doll, pointed collar, fits over my hips [yay!]). It's grey wool, lined with
peach something. Just gorgeous, and it should last me forever..

Cost me $4.. Canadian..

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 18:34:21 1999
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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "H-Costume" <H-Costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Pre-Revolution costume
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 19:48:01 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF0AB3.89B30DA0
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HELP!!=20
My local historical society is embarking on a project to costume the =
instructors who teach in their school programs. For various reasons my =
mother and I have some serious concerns about how accurate the clothes =
will be. Am I right that the mop caps so popular back in 1976 are not =
really accurate? Can someone give me documentation for this? The first =
thing they had my mother looking for was our old patterns from 1976. I =
haven't done anything close to this period since I was 10 so I'm =
slightly lost and have very little time to at least convince them to =
stop and research before they act. Can someone point me towards some =
basic resources. I would be looking for housewife/farming clothing for =
an area that was very well settled and populated by the 18th century.

Thanks in advance=20
Beth

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF0AB3.89B30DA0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>HELP!! </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>My local historical society is embarking on a =
project to=20
costume the instructors who teach in their school programs. For various =
reasons=20
my mother and I have some serious concerns about how accurate the =
clothes will=20
be. Am I right that the mop caps so popular back in 1976 are not really=20
accurate? Can someone give me documentation for this? The first thing =
they had=20
my mother looking for was our old patterns from 1976. I haven't done =
anything=20
close to this period since I was 10 so I'm slightly lost and have very =
little=20
time to at least convince them to stop and research before they act. Can =
someone=20
point me towards some basic resources. I would be looking for =
housewife/farming=20
clothing for an area that was very well settled and populated by the =
18th=20
century.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks in advance </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Beth</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 18:58:33 1999
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From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: H-COST: Washing fur...
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

I went to a local thrift shop the other day, and found a fab fur coat that
was ripped in quite a few places for $4. So I got it :] I thought that it
would make great trim or something.

I actually want to use it to line a german ren 'partlet', but it needs to
be washed before I put it on something to go against my skin. How would I
go about doing this? I don't know what kind of fur it is.. It's many small
pieced stitched together, and the leather part of it is very thin &
delicate. Should I get it drycleaned?

Thank you!

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 20:03:28 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: Ice man dated
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

Radio carbon dating of his clothing has now dated the Canadian iceman, 
Kwaday Dan Sinchi, as approximately 550 years old, roughly in the 1415-1445 
A.D. range. This means he predates European contact on the west coast by 
about 300 years.

Tatshenshini Ice Man died 550 years ago 
http://www.cbcnews.cbc.ca/cgi-bin/templates/view.cgi?/news/1999/09/28/bc_ice
man990928

Age of B.C. iceman revealed
http://www.cbcnews.cbc.ca/cgi-bin/templates/view.cgi?/news/1999/09/28/iceman
990928

Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred
agottfre@telusplanet.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 20:07:09 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 18:19:56 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>


>it needs to
>be washed before I put it on something to go against my skin. How would I
>go about doing this? 

My father's girlfriend has 6 or 7 fur coats and she cleans them with cornstarch...like you would a hamster, you can't get the hamsters wet ( or aren't supposed to) so you rub them in the cornstarch and it takes the oil and dirt etc off them, if it is severly dirty you might try some of that no-water soap, after all if it doesn't work it was only 4 dollars.

also maybe try calling one of your local cleaners, someone there might know what you should do with it.

Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure


"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 20:13:36 1999
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From: seamstrix@juno.com
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: H-Costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 19:40:58 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pre-Revolution costume
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

It's been a few years since I was really active in 18th century
re-enactment, but here are some of my resources. 

Rural Pennsylvania Clothing by Ellen J. Gehret  ISBN 0-87387-105-7

Distaff Sketch Book by Robert L. Klinger Library of Congress Number
74-29086 (sorry, it's an old copy)

Historic Dress in America by Elizabeth McClellan Library of Congress
Number 70-81515

Tidings From The 18th Century by Beth Gilgun ISBN 1-880655-04-7

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 20:30:22 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Caftan/Simar/Italian Renaissance
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 21:52:10 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

The  text on this website is highly innacurate, and this is
a classic example.  This 1447-1513 Turkish garment did
emphatically *not* develop into the simar.  The
English/Dutch women's jacket had been around in one form or
another since at least the every early 1400's.  This caftan
is a full length garment, not a jacket.   All the caftans of
this period in the Topkapi Museum are about as wide as they
were high.  The rulers were fat and short, about 4' -4" on
average that period, by my guess.   (The sleeves and general
style are very ancient Persian.  There were little slits at
the elbow and near the shoulder on those ankle length
sleeves for arms to stick through.  The sleeves are vestigal
on many clothes, ie not even big enough to get an arm
through.)

The brocade *may* have been manufactured in Asia Minor,
where there were thousands of  brocade factories in this
period, providing the court and the harem new clothes twice
per year.  It was the major brocade manufacturing region at
the time, (which shifted abruptly to Italy with the
Conquest, c. 1453).

I believe the circular embroidered polychrome patterns
twined with flowers on English women's jackets of the 1600's
copied their patterns from Chinese/Nepalese embroidered or
brocade patterns.  I saw a caftan from this region once in
precisely the same pattern (but bigger) and coloration as
those popular Englishwomen's jackets.  I haven't seen a
costume historian confirm that though.

Italian women enjoyed their jackets, fur lined too in the
colder months.  There were undress wear for the upper
classes, to keep warm around the house, but like today's
sportswear, meant to be seen.  I think the French started
the fashion for being painted in negligee, and the English
copied them.  Dutch painters captured everyday scenes, and
of course, managed record  plenty of those jackets.  I agree
with you, that women in  jackets don't show up so much in
Italian paintings, compared to those of England and Holland.

Hope H. Dunlap

> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Elizabeth Jones
> Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 12:33 PM
> To: h-costume
> Subject: H-COST: Caftan/Simar/Italian Renaissance
>
>
>
> -Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>
>
>
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/text/Ita
li
> an.Renaissance/CJ38.html
>
> I had asked about this garment as it was listed in the
"High Italian
> Ren" section of the Tulane Costume section. At the time I
did not know
> there was any text available, which is why I asked. Going
> back and being
> a little more deliberate, I see it is stated as "Caftan of
Beyazit II
> (1447-1513) Costume Gallery, Topkapi Saray Museum,
Istanbul. It also
> states: "This is the caftan brought to Italy and developed
into the
> simar."
>
> I am not sure where that statement comes from (sounds very
> authoritative, doesn't it?), but perhaps this is how
legends or myths
> get started! I wonder if an evolution of this was the
English
> embroidered jackets late in the 16th century? I cannot
> remember seeing a
> relation to this in Italian costuming of the early 16th
century, so I
> don't know how it evolved. Actually, portraits or jackets
in
> general are
> scarce in Italian fashion.
>
> At any rate, I was not familiar with the term "simar" so I
> looked it up
> in my Costume Language book. (I must add that recent
discussion here
> have made me use this book, previously collecting dust,
and it is
> performing very well - it seems to have all the terms I
need, albeit
> brief ones)
>
> SIMAR: Fem, Short jacket for indoors wear of velvet, plush
or brocade.
> Jacket edges and long sleeves fur trimmed. Worn in the
Netherlands and
> American Colonies. 17th and 18th centuries. (see also
SAMARRE)
>
> SAMARRE: Fem, (basically same as above, "sometimes
furtrimmed", but
> also:) Worn over full silk skirt. Depicted by Dutch
Masters, Vermeer,
> etc.
>
> "Hope  wrote: Jacqueline Herald in *Dress in Renaissance
Italy
> 1450-1550*
> describes the intense craze in Italy during the
Renaissance
> for Ottoman caftans.  They Italian kings and nobles adored
> the exoticism and comfort of the garments.  Caftans were a
> preferred gift from their Turkish trading partners, and
> there was an intense trade.  Parties were held in the
courts
> where the caftans were the only permitted wear for days!
>
> Susan Fatemi wrote: I see it says renaissance, but it
looks like an
> Ottoman
> (or Persian?) caftan with those long false sleeves.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Liz Jones
>
>
____________________________________________________________
_____
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 20:30:25 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Pre-Revolution costume
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 20:23:41 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Is this for the Suffolk , New York area, per your ISP
address?  Was that area Dutch or English settled before the
Revolution? It makes a significant difference in the
costume.  Please let us know, and I'm sure List members can
help.  Costume accuracy has increased much since 1976, so
you should be able to do better than the patterns available
in 1976.

Hope H. Dunlap



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On Behalf Of Beth
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 7:48 PM
To: H-Costume
Subject: H-COST: Pre-Revolution costume


HELP!!
My local historical society is embarking on a project to
costume the instructors who teach in their school programs.
For various reasons my mother and I have some serious
concerns about how accurate the clothes will be. Am I right
that the mop caps so popular back in 1976 are not really
accurate? Can someone give me documentation for this? The
first thing they had my mother looking for was our old
patterns from 1976. I haven't done anything close to this
period since I was 10 so I'm slightly lost and have very
little time to at least convince them to stop and research
before they act. Can someone point me towards some basic
resources. I would be looking for housewife/farming clothing
for an area that was very well settled and populated by the
18th century.

Thanks in advance
Beth


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 21:19:47 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: How to reproduce the hat?: was Raglan sleeves
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 22:39:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Drea identified a second source for this hat in the de Heere
water colors of Irish people, late 1500's--1570's as I
remember.  De Heere was Flemish, and the dress of the Irish
was reputed to have many similarites to the Flemish.  Given
this evidence, its hard to label this hat style as
allegorical.  The de Heere watercolors are travelogue-style
illustrations of "the natives," not religious by any stretch
of the imagination. If anyone finds another period artwork
with this style pictured, a lot of us would be interested.
P. S. Thers' a Van der Weyden sketch of a real woman in this
hat, presumably a model for the later religious painting.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 1999 12:19 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: How to reproduce the hat?: was Raglan
sleeves
>
>
>
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
> I'm assuming you mean the Fram Air Filter Hat on Mary
> Madgalen by Rogier van der
> Weyden.  Simplicity has this exact hat in a pattern right
> now.  I personally
> wouldn't wear this hat because it's allegorical, not
accurate
> but hey, you can
> find a complete instruction guide on the pattern.  :)
>
> A favor?  Please include more information in your replies
(or
> a quote from the
> original post) because it's hard to tell what it is you're
> asking about.  :)
> Cynthia
>
> Kwhykelly@aol.com wrote:
>
> > -Poster: Kwhykelly@aol.com
> >
> > Hi again, missed the lurker's day so I'm making up for
it today.
> >
> > Looking at the hat in the picture, it looks like a strip
of
> 3-4 inch cloth
> > wrapped into a wheel.  Would this be wired to keep it
> together?  Would I tac
> > it in various spots? Also, what sort of fabric would I
use
> for it? Would I be
> > able to cheat and use that fancy wired ribbon in white
> satin or a brocade?
> >
> > Also, the woman is wearing her hair down under this, is
> this only a style for
> > young women/maidens, or is this a common style for women
of
> all ages.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Kristi Kelly
> >
____________________________________________________________
_____
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
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>
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 22:36:57 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 23:54:26 -0400
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

I said:
> > I was thinking of making an attempt at the 4-panel dress Robin described,
>  > and was contemplating wearing a sports bra for fitting- it's the
one-piece
>  > kind that flatten one's breasts against the chest wall, making "mounds".
>  > It's supportive because the breasts are against the chest, not because of
>  > any cantilevering.

>Rebecca said:
>Is there a pattern for this sort of dress anywhere? Or is this one of those
>"do it yourself" type things? As I am trying to do this sort of thing on my
>own with no real experience, without any helpers (my hubby will do hems, but
>that's about it!) a pattern really helps!

I'm catching up on email, and apologize if soneone's already answered this.

I'm not using a pattern; I plan to make it up first in some hideous and
cheap fabric, then use that for a pattern. Or maybe as a base for some of
the adjustments Robin referred to, to get other silhouettes.

I don't have ahelper, which makes things more difficult, but have been
sewing for lo these many years, and without a pettern for about 10 now. I
use grocery bags to approximate curves, like necklines and armholes, then
adjust through a series of fittings and mirror examinations. Or one can
borrow the neck or armholes from an existing pattern...

-Amanda


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 22:37:05 1999
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

One of my few thrift shop finds was pretty great. I don't shop in them as
much as I used to, though my daughter adores them (I sew sl=kirts and wear
them with t-shirts or turtlenecks most of the time).

Still, last time I found a smocking pleater for $8! They had no idea what
it was. It has all its bits, though a couple tiny round things could stand
replacing; should be pretty easy.

Now I need to figure out what to do with it..!

-Amanda


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 22:52:14 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 21:06:30 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Ninni Pettersson wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>
> 
> At 23.45 +0100 99-09-27, StitchWitch wrote:
> >Now, a question somewhat remotly related to the purpose of this list . . .
> >What is the most interesting vintage/antique item of clothing you've found
> >at such shops? And what did you pay for it? I'd be interested in seeing what
> >folk have found in their various locations, being the thrift store junkie
> >that I am.

I haven't really been reading this thread until now, but I'll chip in my
best find - it was 5 yards of absolutely drop dead gorgeous kimono silk
for 50 cents, at the Goodwill store in Kaneohe, Hawaii.  This was about
20 years ago and I still have 3 yards of the silk left (used the other 2
yards for a Tudor).  It was white with gold metallic butterflies woven
into it.  Very heavy satin weave.  Looked a lot like the Worth fabric in
"The Opulent Era" but the butterflies were all the same size and evenly
distributed.

More recently my best find was at the Long Beach Salvation Army - a silk
net dress with vintage Chantilly lace forming the skirt in scallops at
the bottom and midway up the skirt.  The lace is a little worn where it
was on the bodice but I"m planning to reback it onto black silk net when
I can afford it, and turn it into an Edwardian ballgown (maybe for
Costume college next year).

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 22:56:14 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 21:11:35 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: H-COST: What kind of pleats would these be?
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

I found this pic, and it looks like what I am trying to achieve.. at least
in the pleating skirt to bodice part.. How would I do this? They look like
knife pleats, but I'm not sure.
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/High.Italian.Rena
issance/CJ09.jpg

Thank you!
Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Sep 29 22:59:11 1999
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Dietmar wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
> 
> I don't need a machine, but I've got a small problem. I've got a Singer
> cabinet machine from circa 1960 and it runs well. Unfortunately, one of the
> hinges on the cabinet lid has broken. Does anyone have suggestions on where to
> find a replacement hinge?

Dietmar, can you give me a description of the hinge?  If it's one of the
round ones with the peg that the machine slides into, I think I have a
spare that might work.

Carolyn/Tetchubah
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 00:38:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 00:58:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
In-Reply-To: <v04003a00b417f665d6f0@[209.244.226.238]>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Wed, 29 Sep 1999 sustre@pixelations.com wrote:

> I said:
> > > I was thinking of making an attempt at the 4-panel dress Robin described,
> 
> >Rebecca said:
> >Is there a pattern for this sort of dress anywhere? Or is this one of those
> >"do it yourself" type things? As I am trying to do this sort of thing on my
> >own with no real experience, without any helpers (my hubby will do hems, but
> >that's about it!) a pattern really helps!

Hi, I missed this the first time around.

I have never found a pattern successful for this, if by "pattern" you mean
a piece of paper (or specific measurements) that you use to guide your
cutting of the shape of the fabric pieces. This construction (at least as
I do it) relies heavily on stretch and distortion of the fabric under
pressure -- something paper doesn't do. What with all the manipulation,
I've found the final shapes of the pieces are too idiosyncratic to predict
with a pattern. You can't draft something up just from measurements, as
the act of wearing the dress will change the body's angles (and some of
the distances)  substantially.  There's also a lot of variation in the
behavior of different fabrics, so even two dresses for the same person can
end up having different angles and proportions on the pieces. 

However, if you mean just a rough guide to the number and shapes of the
cut pieces, to be refined and fitted on the person, that's easy enough. I
sketched the body piece in ASCII in an earlier post. You'll have four of
those, plus gores (sides, plus back or front as your figure and the fabric
require) and sleeves. I don't *cut* the body pieces in that shape to begin
with, however. I cut them very roughly to start, leaving at least three
inches of seam allowance from the hips up, and do the rest on the body. I
always start by shaping the back seam to match the spine -- something I
can only do on the person. 

When people ask me for patterns, I like to point out that there's no
evidence of pattern use in the 14th century. Working patternless is
fundamentally different from working with a pattern. As a friend of mine
put it (after I made her a dress), "With patterns, we cut it out, sew it
together, then fit it. Before patterns, they fit it, then sewed it
together, then cut it out." That's slightly oversimplified, but that's
pretty close to the mark. 

The results of working this way are substantially different. I think I'm
getting closer results to what was done then by using a technique that's
more likely similar to theirs. 

> I'm not using a pattern; I plan to make it up first in some hideous and
> cheap fabric, then use that for a pattern. Or maybe as a base for some of
> the adjustments Robin referred to, to get other silhouettes.

Mockups are a good idea, but you should try to find a fabric that matches
the weight and stretch (on bias and grain) of your final fabric. A mockup
in cotton bedsheet won't give you much to go on for a dress in wool.

I don't do mockups anymore; I just fit the lining first and then use that
as my guide to cutting the outer layer. In a sense, the lining is my
"mockup." I've been known to hack the shoulder or armhole or something off
a lining piece and replace it with fresh fabric so I could recut the
problem part. It won't show when you're done! Just be sure to make your
cut on the grain, and match the grain angle of the replacement piece
exactly to the grain of the lining. Instead of a regular seam, overlap the
new piece about 1/2 inch and sew the raw edges flat with zigzag. This
won't interfere with stretch. 

All this is just my own approach, and I'm putting it out here for whatever
help it can be to others, not to dictate how I think things ought to be
done. I'm sure every person on this list who tries this dress will find a
slightly different way to accomplish what s/he wants. We're all
experimenting. 

--Robin

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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 22:57:22 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: What kind of pleats would these be?
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
>
>I found this pic, and it looks like what I am trying to achieve.. at least
>in the pleating skirt to bodice part.. How would I do this? They look like
>knife pleats, but I'm not sure.

I think they could be box pleats.

each pleat is like this:

     _________      _________
     \             /        \              /
----\        /-------\           /----------


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 00:50:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Fram-Air-Filter Hat
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-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

Regardless of whether the van der Weyden painting is
allegorical, I recently saw a quote from a
contemporary source complaining about the "young
virgins" wrapping great quantities of linen bandages
around their heads and how stupid the new fashion
looked (proving somebody besides Mary Magdalen was
doing it).  I will look for it tomorrow and post
particulars when I find it.

Valerie R.

--- Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> I'm assuming you mean the Fram Air Filter Hat on
> Mary Madgalen by Rogier van der
> Weyden.  Simplicity has this exact hat in a pattern
> right now.  I personally
> wouldn't wear this hat because it's allegorical, not
> accurate but hey, you can
> find a complete instruction guide on the pattern. 
> :)
> 
> A favor?  Please include more information in your
> replies (or a quote from the
> original post) because it's hard to tell what it is
> you're asking about.  :)
> Cynthia
> 
> Kwhykelly@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > -Poster: Kwhykelly@aol.com
> >
> > Hi again, missed the lurker's day so I'm making up
> for it today.
> >
> > Looking at the hat in the picture, it looks like a
> strip of 3-4 inch cloth
> > wrapped into a wheel.  Would this be wired to keep
> it together?  Would I tac
> > it in various spots? Also, what sort of fabric
> would I use for it? Would I be
> > able to cheat and use that fancy wired ribbon in
> white satin or a brocade?
> >
> > Also, the woman is wearing her hair down under
> this, is this only a style for
> > young women/maidens, or is this a common style for
> women of all ages.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Kristi Kelly
> > 
>
_________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
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Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 03:19:17 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: The Ball has Begun
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 04:28:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

It is Sept. 30th and the Online Costume Ball '99 is in progress,
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm.  Currently, the
Ball is as large as last years. This year's Ball will be 2-3 times larger
than last year.  We will be adding guests throughout the month of October.
Near the end of October, we will choose our Court.

We are happy to announce that this year we have added some reference links
about some of the costumes or historic events at the bottom of the webpages.
We hope to encourage our visitors to read more about the events or time
periods.

Have a Blast at the Ball!
Penny
(Keeper of the Ball)
http://www.costumegallery.com



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 05:09:53 1999
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From: "LGreene" <lgreene@halcyon.com>
To: <lace@arachne.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>,
        <histrenact@novarltd.demon.co.uk>, <vintage-dance@world.std.com>,
        <swing-seattle-chat@cs.washington.edu>, <jammix@lists.stanford.EDU>,
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Subject: H-COST: Gilded Age Tours New Website!
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:33:09 +0200
Message-ID: <003301bf0b2d$e41860e0$91495c8b@lgreene>
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-Poster: "LGreene" <lgreene@halcyon.com>

Hi all,

Gilded Age Tours' Web site at http://www.gildedagetours.com has a whole new
look to go with our new focus. We are now doing custom-designed tours of
Paris and France specializing in:
- vintage clothing, textiles & lace;
- swing & vintage dance;
- historic reenactment;
- personal shopping; and
- wine tasting

You pick the dates, tell us your interests and budget, and together we'll
create the tour of your dreams!  Mix and match your interests: vintage
shopping and walking tours during the day, swing dancing at night, even
excursions outside of Paris to Champagne, the Loire Valley chateaux,
Normandy, Versailles - it's all possible, and AT REASONABLE PRICES!

NEWS FLASH: spend the Millenium New Year's Eve in Paris, with a 5-day tour
that includes the fabulous King's Ball at Versailles - reasonably priced,
but space is very limited - contact us TODAY - on the web site at
http://www.gildedagetours.com/millenium.htm

Please visit our web site at http://www.gildedagetours.com for full
information, or contact me at info@gildedagetours.com or 1-877-261-1500 and
we'll send you an information packet.  Also contact me to be placed on our
emailing list for news and site updates.

Looking forward to hearing from you soon - à bientot!

Best regards,
Lauriann Greene
President, Gilded Age Tours

---------------------------------------------
Gilded Age Tours: http://www.gildedagetours.com
Custom-Designed Tours of Paris and France, including Flea Market Tours,
Personal Shopping, and Wine Tasting/French Wine Country Tours.  Room still
available on our Millenium New Year's Eve at Versailles Tour of Paris!

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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 12:00:56 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-Costume Least-favourite styles (WAS: H-COST: New FO)
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> - -Poster: Appin1@aol.com

> I have finished a 1699 mantua and fontage. 

Congratulations

> While I think this is probably the single most unattractive garment
> ever designed for women,

I couldn't agree more.  It is my *least* favourite style of female 
dress.  My least favourite style of men's are tied between two.  One 
is the CharlesII period with "petticoat breeches and the waist of the 
"coats" so high that the shirt puffs out around the middle, the other 
is "sweep-away" coats of the 17... er... 1790's (??), which *always* 
make me think of an attempt at a frock-coat but without enough 
fabric to make the skirts properly full.....<g>  After about the 1840's 
mens clothes become too dull for me to be interested in them.

Anyone else have any periods/styles they just *can't stand*?

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 07:34:33 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Fram-Air-Filter Hat
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Although it could also apply to the turbanesque linen headwraps as well
as the Air Filter style, if it doesn't specify the width of those "linen
bandages."  I look forward to more info!

Valerie Robertson wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
> 
> Regardless of whether the van der Weyden painting is
> allegorical, I recently saw a quote from a
> contemporary source complaining about the "young
> virgins" wrapping great quantities of linen bandages
> around their heads and how stupid the new fashion
> looked (proving somebody besides Mary Magdalen was
> doing it).  I will look for it tomorrow and post
> particulars when I find it.

--
There's opinion, and there's fact. You can't have an opinion about a
fact,  because it *is*.  Your opinion doesn't change it. If you deal
with an opinion, a fact can validate it or prove it false.  -- an
unknown seminary lecturer
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 07:43:56 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-Costume Least-favourite styles (WAS: H-COST: New FO)
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> Anyone else have any periods/styles they just *can't stand*?

Hmm...1820s & 30s, with those astoundingly huge sleeves and over-the-top
decoration, is some of the silliest looking dress I've ever seen.

I don't like the Cavalier look much either; it's the only style I've seen 
that can make a woman gain 20 visual pounds just by putting it on.

Otherwise, I pretty much like it all.  :)

Drea

> 
> Teddy
> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> air and darkness, apparently!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 08:08:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 09:19:56 EDT
Subject: Re: H-Costume Least-favourite styles (WAS: H-COST: New FO)
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 09/30/1999 8:59:13 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
aleed@dnaco.net writes:

<< Hmm...1820s & 30s, with those astoundingly huge sleeves and over-the-top
 decoration, is some of the silliest looking dress I've ever seen.
  >>

You need to see the 1830s gowns in the catalogue "The Evolution of Fashion". 
Nothing silly about them. Besides, real things never look as silly as in 
fashion plates.
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: 16thCen bodices not matching skirts...
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

I can't remember who was originally asking about this but it seems 
to have taken off as a subject of interest.

There are a couple of mismatched bodices and skirts on the figures 
in the "Fete at Bermondsey" by Joris Hoefnagel... (I think I've heard 
it referred to as the "Wedding at Bermondsey too?)  I've just seen a 
big (poster-sized) copy of it in a teaching pack on Tudor Life that is 
being catalogued here.

Near the bottom right-hand corner (near the two fiddle players) is a 
woman in a blue bodice, red skirt and brown apron.  Beside her 
(side-back view) is a woman with a pink bodice and a red skirt with 
what looks like the edge of a white apron showing at the front of the 
skirt, with strings around the waist.



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 09:13:35 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Does it need to be washed because it has some Foul Substance on it, or is it
just dirty and matted?  If it's the second, I've had good luck with putting
it in a big plastic trash bag with a box of cornmeal, shaking vigorously,
and letting it sit for a day.  Then take it out and throughly shake out the
cornmeal.  You may need to vaccuum it gently.  

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 09:18:31 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: The Ball has Begun
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

All I can say is "Wow"! I am really impressed by the quality and detail
in this year's entries, and Penny isn't even done yet! I can see that I
will be checking back with the Ball frequently. The pictures are so
inspirational! I can just feel a Cavalier dress coming on!

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 09:41:42 1999
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From: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Washing fur...
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-Poster: "Wilson, Brad" <BWilson@gesexpo.com>


>Does it need to be washed because it has some Foul Substance on it, or is
it
> just dirty and matted?  If it's the second, I've had good luck with
putting

You can generally use any something like tide to wash it, as long as it was
tanned properly. Once the fur is tanned, it is pretty much good to go, just
watch out if you wash it to much you may wash the oil out of the leather,
and that is what makes it soft and pliable (I am a taxidermist, BTW). You
can also purchase fur cleaning materials from a taxidermy shop (you don't
need a license or anything) and use that. If it is a white fur that got
dirty, try using the old lady hair whitener, just wash it on, then rinse
(otherwise it will turn it 'old lady' blue). Taxidermy supply shops also
sell a whitener that works well. You can see one online at www.taxidermy.net
or www.wasco.net (I believe that is right). I get most of my supplies from
them, and they are nice to do business with.

Brad


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 10:27:24 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 08:41:07 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Drea identified a second source for this hat in the de Heere
> water colors of Irish people, late 1500's--1570's as I
> remember.

I know deHeere and the painting.  But I would hesitate to say that the
two hats are the same.  DeHeere's painting doesn't have enough detail
to say either way.  The shape is the same, round disk-ish but I would
hesitate to make any further correlation myself.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 10:37:56 1999
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From: Lyssa@mgram.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: re: duct tape double / men
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-Poster: Lyssa@mgram.com

I did brown paper tape doubles last year for my boyfriend and another
gentleman as well as for 4 women.  They are actually easier than fitting
for women.  The most important thing to consider is the clothing worn on
the lower portion of the torso.  Blue jeans are just too bulky to get a
good fit and next time I'll remember to get him to take out the wallet.
The other thing to consider is what the lower garments are doing to the
extra flesh in the waist area.  Jeans tend to create their own spare
tire effect even if the gentleman has only a small amount of extra in
that area.  If possible, use a really long t-shirt and avoid binding
short or pants and you'll get a more accurate form.

Daniel's was just a quick experiment, but came out very nicely even with
the blue jean and wallet bulges.  The second gentleman's came out much
better.  I think the biggest difference in doing the men was in the
amount of time it took in the chest area. The ladies were mostly large
breasted and it took some time to get the chest area to look right.  The
men had less soft tissue to worry about squishing out of shape.  Oh, and
the gentleman tended to be more self conscious about their form while
being wrapped so an audience makes the process much more difficult.  I
was doing a class and we finished 5 doubles in 5 hours with a few hours
later to finish firming up the shapes and to mount them for use.  In
this rather public scene, the men would refuse to stand still for too
long without a bit of posturing and the ladies were mostly okay until
they saw the finished forms.  I think 3 swore to join Weight Watchers
the minute they saw their forms.

I'm still using the test form for Daniel for holding the garments while
pinning although I need to make a more accurate one for actual fitting.
I haven't tried the duct tape version, but using the instructions on the
duct tape double web site (sorry I don't have the address to hand but
I'm sure its been posted recently) and the instructions in Threads, the
brown paper version came out very nice.  My pins don't get gummed up and
the forms are very light.  The only thing I'd definitely do differently
is make sure the t-shirts fit more closely to the bodies and do all the
additional reinforcing on the inside of the doubles to avoid adding extra
bulk to the outside of the forms.

Hope that helps!
Maggie Griggs

p.s.  I missed the delurking day, but I'll post today to make up.



H->------------------------------

H->From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
H->Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 19:55:08 -0500
H->Subject: Re: H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men

H->- -Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

H->I have a friend that is in the process of doing one for himself. I will ask
H->him about it and forward him your email if you like.

H->Sincerely,
H->F. Havas
H->Dallas, Texas
H->motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide

H->- ----- Original Message -----
H->From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
H->To: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
H->Sent: Monday, September 27, 1999 1:37 PM
H->Subject: H-COST: Duct Tape Double / Men


H->:
H->: -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
H->:
H->: Has anyone here made a Duct Tape Double for men?  I think it's going to be
H->: necessary so that I can get a proper fit for my DH's kit, without driving
H->: him nuts with repeated fittings.  Other than the obvious (no foundation
H->: garments), what is different from doing this for women?
H->:
H->: -- Mara

H->------------------------------


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 10:37:58 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Regardless of whether the van der Weyden painting is
> allegorical, I recently saw a quote from a
> contemporary source complaining about the "young
> virgins" wrapping great quantities of linen bandages
> around their heads and how stupid the new fashion
> looked

As the other Cynthia mentioned, this could mean the turbans that were
being worn at the time.  I find the written word to be sometimes not
sufficient in describing a particular style.  I guess I would rather
see a picture than assume that linen bandages wrapped around the head
was the same as linen rolled into a tight roll and set precariously on
top of the head.

Just my $.02 worth,
Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 11:09:21 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>There are a couple of mismatched bodices and skirts on the figures 
>in the "Fete at Bermondsey" by Joris Hoefnagel... (I think I've heard 
>it referred to as the "Wedding at Bermondsey too?) 

Okay, I've been hearing about this painting for years, and I've never
mananged to locate a copy.  It's not on the Web.  Can anyone tell me the
title of a book in which I can find a decent copy, hopefully one which I can
get from ILL?  

Failing that, Teddy, do you recall a price on that poster version?  I assume
it's not available in the US, but perhaps we could work something out?


Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 11:22:17 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 12:33:42 -0400
From: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>
Organization: Oracle Corporation
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Subject: H-COST: Italian Camora/Gamurra
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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- -Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net> wrote

" I found this pic, and it looks like what I am trying to achieve.. at
least
in the pleating skirt to bodice part.. How would I do this? They look
like
knife pleats, but I'm not sure.

http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/High.Italian.Rena

issance/CJ09.jpg"

I have made several camora/gamurra like this. Skirt attachment
(pleating) and sleeve style can vary, although they are all similar.
This is one of the plainer styles and great for real work! I wear this
garment camping a lot at SCA.

You can do knife pleats or cartridge pleating. Looking at similar
examples

Triumph of Venus and the Sign of Taurus: Allegory of Month of April by
Franceso dell Cossa (1470).

http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.cgi?author=COSSA%2C+Francesco+del&time=any&school=any&form=any&type=any&title=&comment=

Woman sitting with back to viewer has wider pleating (2" I guess) and
obviously maintained to the hip via taping on the inside (see rolled
pleat discussion earlier). I cannot say if these were rolled pleats, but
look like very deep knife or box pleats to me. I used deep knife pleats
(about 1:3) when I did this myself.

I actually like doing cartridge pleating better than flat/knife pleats.
It seems to take less time to get things even (although when I first
started I kept running out of either pleats or fabric!). With all the
discussion of cartridge vs. rolled/organ pleating recently, I am
starting to doubt all of my previous cartridge assumptions. However, I
cannot find evidence of any seams or trapezoidal shapes in any women's
dresses of the 1450-1500 period. With all the detail and seams that are
visible in these portraits, I would expect to see evidence if it was
done. I normally construct dresses of this period with a rectangular
skirt

Other pictures of pleating: The interior of a house by Fra Carnevale
(can't find image)

The Madonna di Senigallia by Pietro della Francesca (1470)

http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.cgi?author=PIERO+della+FRANCESCA&time=any&school=any&form=any&type=any&title=Madonna&comment=



Hope this helps!

Liz Jones

P.S. Hope, thanks for the advisory on the simar/caftan problem! I can
happily go back to trusting my instincts. never having seen an extant
item being presented in the Italian Renaissance period before, and then
to have it look like THAT, made we wonder what was going on!

BTW, does anyone know of any extant pieces from the Italian Renaissance
(except for underwear and Eleonora's clothing? I was wondering more
about pre 1540...

--------------A6D99F18115A3C66A5613470
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
- -Poster: Kris &lt;i.wonder@L7.net> wrote
<p>" I found this pic, and it looks like what I am trying to achieve..
at least
<br>in the pleating skirt to bodice part.. How would I do this? They look
like
<br>knife pleats, but I'm not sure.
<p><A HREF="http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/High.Italian.Rena">http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/High.Italian.Rena</A>
<br>issance/CJ09.jpg"
<p>I have made several camora/gamurra like this. Skirt attachment (pleating)
and sleeve style can vary, although they are all similar. This is one of
the plainer styles and great for real work! I wear this garment camping
a lot at SCA.
<p>You can do knife pleats or cartridge pleating. Looking at similar examples
<p>Triumph of Venus and the Sign of Taurus: Allegory of Month of April
by Franceso dell Cossa (1470).
<p><a href="http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.cgi?author=COSSA%2C+Francesco+del&time=any&school=any&form=any&type=any&title=&comment=">http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.cgi?author=COSSA%2C+Francesco+del&amp;time=any&amp;school=any&amp;form=any&amp;type=any&amp;title=&amp;comment=</a>
<p>Woman sitting with back to viewer has wider pleating (2" I guess) and
obviously maintained to the hip via taping on the inside (see rolled pleat
discussion earlier). I cannot say if these were rolled pleats, but look
like very deep knife or box pleats to me. I used deep knife pleats (about
1:3) when I did this myself.
<p>I actually like doing cartridge pleating better than flat/knife pleats.
It seems to take less time to get things even (although when I first started
I kept running out of either pleats or fabric!). With all the discussion
of cartridge vs. rolled/organ pleating recently, I am starting to doubt
all of my previous cartridge assumptions. However, I cannot find evidence
of any seams or trapezoidal shapes in any women's dresses of the 1450-1500
period. With all the detail and seams that are visible in these portraits,
I would expect to see evidence if it was done. I normally construct dresses
of this period with a rectangular skirt
<p>Other pictures of pleating: The interior of a house by Fra Carnevale
(can't find image)
<p>The Madonna di Senigallia by Pietro della Francesca (1470)
<p><a href="http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.cgi?author=PIERO+della+FRANCESCA&time=any&school=any&form=any&type=any&title=Madonna&comment=">http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.cgi?author=PIERO+della+FRANCESCA&amp;time=any&amp;school=any&amp;form=any&amp;type=any&amp;title=Madonna&amp;comment=</a>
<br>&nbsp;
<p>Hope this helps!
<p>Liz Jones
<p>P.S. Hope, thanks for the advisory on the simar/caftan problem! I can
happily go back to trusting my instincts. never having seen an extant item
being presented in the Italian Renaissance period before, and then to have
it look like THAT, made we wonder what was going on!
<p>BTW, does anyone know of any extant pieces from the Italian Renaissance
(except for underwear and Eleonora's clothing? I was wondering more about
pre 1540...</html>

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adr;dom;quoted-printable:;;Oracle Corporation =0D=0A100 Summit Lake Drive;Valhalla;NY;10595;
org:Global Networks
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 11:26:19 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

My least favorite style is those Spanish Infanta dresses with the enourmous
rectangular panniers, that make the wearer look like an ambulatory sofa.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 11:32:29 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Latest Issue of Smithsonian has neat stuff
References: <000301beb1cb$9c1bd620$1030e7d0@annaoftderturm> <375D44BE.F38870C@tymeportal.com>
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

If you are able to get hold of a copy of the October 1999 _Smithsonian_,
take a look on page 30 for a great article on a couple who are into
medieval reenacting, making their own armor, clothing, etc.  Then turn
over to page 95 for a fantastic black and white shot of a 1931 Paris
shop window full of corsets.  It also shows off the things worn under
corsets.  There is even a child's mannequin wearing stays.

Have fun!

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 11:42:53 1999
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

Where do you find the brown paper tape at? I haven't seen it anywhere.
jb

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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

My least favorite style is the bustle dress of the 1870's and 1880's,
especially the ones that have a very narrow skirt decorated with "garlands"
of trim. It isn't the "big butt" of the bustle that bothers me. I don't
like these dresses from the front.

I think panniers are fascinating. In fact, i am intrigued by the idea of
bizzare understructures (like the bustle and the pannier) that radically
alter the human form, without having to actually go through surgery or
extreme eating habits - a sort of wearable architecture.

Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 11:49:34 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 13:00:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: duct tape double / men
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Thanks, Lyssa!  That helps a great deal.

-- Mara


On Thu, 30 Sep 1999 Lyssa@mgram.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Lyssa@mgram.com
> 
> I did brown paper tape doubles last year for my boyfriend and another
> gentleman as well as for 4 women.  They are actually easier than fitting
> for women.
(snip)

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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
>
>I found this pic, and it looks like what I am trying to achieve.. at
least
>in the pleating skirt to bodice part.. How would I do this? They look
like
>knife pleats, but I'm not sure.

Julie said: I think they could be box pleats. Each pleat is like this:

     _________      _________
     \             /        \              /
- ----\        /-------\           /----------

-----

Oh, I wanted to add about these pleats (to my previous long reply): They
look like box pleats, as do my own knife pleats. I originally tried box
pleats with this dress, but could not get the pleats full enough to
provide that kind of volume, and yet not go beyond about 2" across. So I
did this peculiar knife pleat: fold twice the width (about 4" across) in
one direction, and then double back over itself. This ends up looking
like a box pleat on the outside, but a knife pleat on the inside.  I did
not attach an inside tape at the hip, but looking at the portraits now
may go back and do that. My pleats spread a little open at the top, and
it would look better if they continued down a bit.

(Trying to remember to get rid of the attachments!)

Liz Jones



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 12:01:21 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 12:11:37 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: duct tape double / men
In-Reply-To: <37F3967F.BB788CE9@vci.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Tanton press had it up at one time but theirs was a paper mache one. i
saved the article they had online cause I figured it would not be up for
long. It was in one of thier Threads issue last year.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 30 Sep 1999, schuck@vci.net wrote:

> Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:57:36 -0500
> From: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: re: duct tape double / men
> 
> 
> -Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
> 
> Where do you find the brown paper tape at? I haven't seen it anywhere.
> jb
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 12:18:51 1999
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From: Ariyana Kylstram <ariyana@cats.UCSC.EDU>
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Ariyana Kylstram <ariyana@cats.UCSC.EDU>


Local drycleaners should be able to send your fur away for cleaning if 
they don't have the capabilities to do them there.

.ari
The Lady Ariyana of House Kylstram 
ariyana@cats.ucsc.edu
http://www.kithrup.com/~ariyana/


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 12:48:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:03:01 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Ball has Begun
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Anyone else having trouble with this URL?
It comes up *not found* for me.  I copied and pasted it so it was not a
matter of mis-typing it.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: The Ball has Begun
>Date: Thu, Sep 30, 1999, 1:28 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>It is Sept. 30th and the Online Costume Ball '99 is in progress,
>http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm.  Currently, the
>Ball is as large as last years. This year's Ball will be 2-3 times larger
>than last year.  We will be adding guests throughout the month of October.
>Near the end of October, we will choose our Court.
>
>We are happy to announce that this year we have added some reference links
>about some of the costumes or historic events at the bottom of the
webpages.
>We hope to encourage our visitors to read more about the events or time
>periods.
>
>Have a Blast at the Ball!
>Penny
>(Keeper of the Ball)
>http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 13:03:38 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:15:28 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Hmmm, I had no trouble.  But then I just click on it in my mail/browser.
Cynthia

> Anyone else having trouble with this URL?
> It comes up *not found* for me.  I copied and pasted it so it was not a
> matter of mis-typing it.
>
> >It is Sept. 30th and the Online Costume Ball '99 is in progress,
> >http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm.

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 15:15:48 +0100
From: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>
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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------A622497E8E3CA47041A05D36
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> Hmm...1820s & 30s, with those astoundingly huge sleeves and over-the-top
> decoration, is some of the silliest looking dress I've ever seen.
>
I don`t like that period either, the hairstyles are horrible to me,
too.This period is called "Biedermeier" here in Germany, meaning the
years 1820-1840.
>From the 1840s on, the dresses become nicer again, I think.

But I like most other period styles and would like to have at least one
costume out of every one of them ;-).
I think I should rebuild a whole house into a wardrobe ;-).

Many greetings,
Diana


--------------A622497E8E3CA47041A05D36
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<HTML>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>Hmm...1820s &amp; 30s, with those astoundingly huge sleeves and over-the-top
decoration, is some of the silliest looking dress I've ever seen.</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
I don`t like that period either, the hairstyles are horrible to me, too.This
period is called "Biedermeier" here in Germany, meaning the years 1820-1840.
<BR>From the 1840s on, the dresses become nicer again, I think.

<P>But I like most other period styles and would like to have at least
one costume out of every one of them ;-).
<BR>I think I should rebuild a whole house into a wardrobe ;-).

<P>Many greetings,
<BR>Diana
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------A622497E8E3CA47041A05D36--


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 13:41:21 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Sewing Machine Parts
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 22:52:35 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>I don't need a machine, but I've got a small problem. I've got a Singer
>cabinet machine from circa 1960 and it runs well. Unfortunately, one of the
>hinges on the cabinet lid has broken. Does anyone have suggestions on where
to
>find a replacement hinge?


   Since you probably have already tried the hardware stores and Singer,  I
have one other suggestion.  Call around to those small antique stores that
refinish furniture.  There is one around the corner from me and I always see
them loading in antiques. It makes me wonder how much 'junk' they have
sitting around, just waiting to find a home.
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 14:01:22 1999
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Message-ID: <4b6871c9.25250fb0@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 15:10:40 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: costume ball
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I don't know if there's a problem with that long address or not, but if you 
use the simple address (www.costumegallery.com) you can get to the ball from 
the home page. Try that.

Gail Finke

PS: It's lots of fun!
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

   I had no trouble with the long address - and the Ball is looking
absolutely great this year!  

  Liadain

> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> Hmmm, I had no trouble.  But then I just click on it in my mail/browser.
> Cynthia
> 
> > Anyone else having trouble with this URL?
> > It comes up *not found* for me.  I copied and pasted it so it was not a
> > matter of mis-typing it.
> >
> > >It is Sept. 30th and the Online Costume Ball '99 is in progress,
> > >http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm.
> 
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: How to reproduce the hat?: was Raglan sleeves
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 12:34:56 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>http://152.19.254.81/wm/paint/auth/weyden/magdalen.jpg

>
>Well, first off, the dress she's seen wearing is her underdress, over
>which would have gone a fashionable gown (as is indicated by the fancy
>embroidered/brocaded sleeve).

That  isn't what I think I see.  Her sleeve has a pin, which leads me to
believe that the sleeves are not part of a dress but, pinned on to make her
plain and sleeveless gown more fashionable.
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 14:23:31 1999
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

A belated thanks, Robin, for your suggestion about wearing a sports bra for
fitting! Wearing it for the initial satges, then not, sounds like just the
thing.

I may may make one for her daughter or a friend of hers first, just to get
the basic idea. And the friend is beginning to learn to sew, with the hope
of making costumes! While she's thinking Goth, I'm going to attmpt to
indoctrinate her into historical- and maybe my daughter, too, will get
infected. <g>

Thanks!

-Amanda


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 14:42:30 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 12:56:56 -0700
Subject: H-COST: costume ball
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Thanks to all of you who sugested that I leave out the *.* at the end.  I
should have known that but I didn't realize it was there.
I got there.
I love it.
Congradulations Penny!
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: How to reproduce the hat?: was Raglan sleeves
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 19:51:50 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Thu, 30 Sep 1999 12:34:56 -0700, the following was written in this
electric book by "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>:

>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>>http://152.19.254.81/wm/paint/auth/weyden/magdalen.jpg
>
>>
>>Well, first off, the dress she's seen wearing is her underdress, over
>>which would have gone a fashionable gown (as is indicated by the fancy
>>embroidered/brocaded sleeve).
>
>That  isn't what I think I see.  Her sleeve has a pin, which leads me to
>believe that the sleeves are not part of a dress but, pinned on to make her
>plain and sleeveless gown more fashionable.

Perhaps I wasn't clear. The pin is OBVIOUS, and had been mentioned
before, so I didn't think it bore mentioning again. The seperate,
decorative sleeves were pinned onto the underdress, then the more
voluminous overdress, probably with some manner of open sleeve to show
the decorative undersleeves, (houppelande or later developments
thereof, this was painted during the transitional period when the more
voluminous houp was turning into the high-waisted v-neck gown) would
go over that. A poor woman would not even be allowed to own such
costly fabric, let alone wear it, because of sumptuary laws.

The 'undress' is an artistic device, used to show her mourning for
Jesus, without the distressing facial contortions of ACTUAL mourning.
Her face needed to be shown as serene and meditative because of her
association with Christ - she is sad that he has died in such an
unjust way, but because of her contact with him she is at peace. It
really helps if you can see the rest of the altarpiece. It is
absoultely necessary to consider such evidence Within Context.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<Can anyone tell me the title of a book in which I can find a decent copy,
hopefully one which I can get from ILL?  >>

The painting is in the collection of the Marquess of Salisbury at Hatfield
House. There's at least one catalog of the collection in print. I believe
the painting was also reproduced in The Elizabethan World, among others.


Deborah


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	 Thu, 30 Sep 1999 15:37:27 -0500
From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: duct tape double / men
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 20:39:55 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Message-ID: <37f6c6ef.33959959@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Thu, 30 Sep 1999 11:57:36 -0500, the following was written in this
electric book by "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>:

>
>-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
>
>Where do you find the brown paper tape at? I haven't seen it anywhere.
>jb


Office Depot carries it in the mailing supplies section, about 5.00
US$ per roll.
http://www.officedepot.com/ has it listed as follows:
  Office Supplies, Labels, Mailing Supplies >> Adhesives >>Tape,
Dispensers and Refills >> Mail-Away Carton Sealing Gummed Tape
it is 5.29 US$ per roll.

This is what I use for making tape dummies (and patching boxes,
building storage out of cardboard, etc...). YOu will need to come up
with some method of securing your sponge in a basin, as it will beocme
sticky enough to cling to the tape after awhile. I took a smallish
square plastic tub and packed it with enough sponges to fill it (not
too snug or they won't hold enough water for your project) and then
rubber-banded them in with large postal-size rubber bands. YOu could
also use a couple of those very small bungie cords, if your container
is large enough.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 18:22:50 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 08:47:23 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re:recycling favorite
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 u>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Embroidered Victorian undersleeve, probably 1840's, teensy stitch eyelet
embroidery, $3 at Goodwill (bought in 1960's)

Large triangle lace shawl, mid-1800's for over hoops or 1920's mantilla,
10' wide x 5' deep, $5 at Salvation Army (bought in 1970's)

Sterling silver sand-cast bracelet, Navaho, early-mid 1900's, 50 cents at
Spring Vally Swap Meet (bought in 1970's)

Brooch missing pin, gold band around oval opal (cracked) 1" x 1 1/2", $5
from antique dealer who thought stone was an agate (bought in 1970's)  Also
in that day's haul were three sterling silver Harvey (something - named
after the tourist store) bracelets from like the 1930's, also @$5. each.
(The antique store had pretensions and this was junk stuff to them, hauled
out of the back in a cardboard box when I said I was looking for broken
stuff for costume use...)

19-teens corset, awful shape, given me by dealer who decided she didn't
want it anymore, Berryessa Flea Market (1980's)

Perry Ellis printed linen jacket which fits me! $5 at Berryessa Flea Market
(bought in 1980's) 


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 08:16:09 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Rolled pleats...??
In-Reply-To: <l03130300b4171f679bfa@[207.167.66.117]>
References: <4.1.19990924060816.00bd2ec0@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>>I used this vest as a model for a German Ren. skirt I did, stiffening the
>>tops of each trapezoid before cartridge pleating, one trapezoid per pleat,
>>and it stayed pleated, moved well, etc.  It too weighed a ton.
>>
>>
>>Kayta
>
>Technically each organ pipe pleat is a long narrow trapezoid. Are you sure
>we aren't talking about the same thing?
>
>Julie Adams

If you think we are, then we probably are.  It's just that here in the
middle of your discussion I realized I owned something very like what you
were talking about.  I always do better with an example, especially a 3-D
example.

On my vest, the pleats are just knocked down 'flat' (=almost half an inch)
like knife pleats.  Your method pinches the seams and flattens them out
inside more like box pleats, yes?


Kayta
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-Costume Least-favourite styles (WAS: H-COST: New FO)
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 30 Sep 1999, teddy1 wrote:

> 
> -Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> 
> 
> > - -Poster: Appin1@aol.com
> 
> > I have finished a 1699 mantua and fontage. 
> 
> Congratulations
Yes, it sounds really lovely.
> 
> > While I think this is probably the single most unattractive garment
> > ever designed for women,
> 
> I couldn't agree more.  It is my *least* favourite style of female 
> dress.  My least favourite style of men's are tied between two.  One 
I absolutely adore mantuas...I guess there's no accounting for
taste :-)
> Anyone else have any periods/styles they just *can't stand*?
After about 1911 I think clothes are sooo ugly for about 20 years.
And between 1805-1835 - I think I'm the only person I know who doesn't 
like Regency clothes ('cept for the very very early part of that style).
And things that I don't exactly hate but just think are silly...second
bustle period and late Elizabethan (ie wheel farthingales).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@mediaone.net>
To: "trudi p" <trudip@aol.com>, "suzanne" <PYREWACKET@aol.com>,
        "Rhonda Bucki" <dagaz4@aol.com>, "nancy wright" <Illussia@aol.com>,
        "N. Frances Rodgers" <frodgers13@worldnet.att.net>,
        "mens costumes" <menscostumes@onelist.com>, "lora" <Loraslaw@aol.com>,
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        "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>, "bob wright" <renfun@aol.com>
Subject: H-COST: great costume custom pattern site.
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 20:07:03 -0400
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-Poster: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@Mediaone.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Here it is http://www.panix.com/~aqn/tailoring/
http://www.panix.com/~aqn/tailoring/

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href=3D"http://www.panix.com/~aqn/tailoring/">http://www.panix.com/~aqn/t=
ailoring/</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></span></p>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 19:28:05 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 17:32:39 -0700
From: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
Organization: Well, I wouldn't call it organized......
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Subject: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
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-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>

Hey Fellow Costumers!

I realize that this won't necessarily apply to all of us on the list,
but I just stopped by my local Wal-Mart and picked up some decent 100%
cotton velveteen for $4.74 a yard.  At the store I was in in Rocklin, CA
they had black, a medium green, a sky blue, and a medium purple--not the
usually gross colors you can get on a bargain table.

So.....If you need to stock up on velveteen (or like to capitolize on
good fabric bargains like me :~>) , you might want to take a peek in
your local Wal-Mart's fabric section and see what you find.

Good luck!

Diana :~>

--

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
"There are too many mediocre things in life to deal with.....Love
shouldn't be one
 of them."
--Ione Skye in "Dream for an Insomniac"


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 19:44:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 20:56:12 -0400
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-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>

>http://152.19.254.81/wm/paint/auth/weyden/magdalen.jpg

>
>Well, first off, the dress she's seen wearing is her underdress, over
>which would have gone a fashionable gown (as is indicated by the fancy
>embroidered/brocaded sleeve).

--That  isn't what I think I see.  Her sleeve has a pin, which leads me
to
--believe that the sleeves are not part of a dress but, pinned on to
make her
--plain and sleeveless gown more fashionable.

I believe the first set of comments is more accurate. This is a
representation of (dare I say it?) a kirtle or underdress. Sorry, don't
know the Flemish/French  term as we have already discussed. The sleeves
were pinned on to a short sleeved underdress, but would have shown under
her overdress - houppelande, etc.

I thinks it's a cool headpiece. Excessive, but cool!

Liz Jones


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 20:35:48 1999
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-Poster: Chamberlain <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

Yes, I meant mob cap not mop! Dyslexics of the world untie!!! If only
spell check could read my mind :)

For those of you who know the New York area-- I'm in Huntington which was
settled in the early 1650's by the English. There was a fair bit of Dutch
influence in the area so I wouldn't rule it out. From what I understand
right now, the clothing will be made for a fairly specific (as in low turn
around) set of women. If I am correct on that fact dresses could be made
for specific people instead of really generic sm-md-lg, and one or two
Dutch outfits in a group of English would be neither impossible nor wildly
inaccurate. I just found out that it is the school teachers who bring
classes to the program who have requested that the instructors be
historically clothed. If I run into resistance I hope I can use that as
ammunition - the teachers wouldn't want them misrepresenting history.  

As if I'm not about to frighten the women in this group with my over
zealousness -- my mother tried to get me to show up at the Historical
Society's prim and proper tea wearing my Bloomers. It would be SO much
more fun than going to work but...

Beth

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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Magdalen sleeves
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 30 Sep 1999, Elizabeth Jones wrote:

> >Well, first off, the dress she's seen wearing is her underdress, over
> >which would have gone a fashionable gown (as is indicated by the fancy
> >embroidered/brocaded sleeve).

-- That isn't what I think I see.  Her sleeve has a pin, which leads me to
-- believe that the sleeves are not part of a dress but, pinned on to make
-- her plain and sleeveless gown more fashionable. 

> I believe the first set of comments is more accurate. This is a
> representation of (dare I say it?) a kirtle or underdress. Sorry, don't
> know the Flemish/French  term as we have already discussed. The sleeves
> were pinned on to a short sleeved underdress, but would have shown under
> her overdress - houppelande, etc.

That was my assumption for a long time, no doubt because I read that
explanation somewhere years ago. But after spending a lot of time studying
15th-century Flemish dress last year, I've been rethinking that idea. 
There's no doubt that the short-sleeved dress is an underdress, but once I
started looking, I didn't see any pictures that jumped out at me as being
examples of fancy false sleeves showing out from under the large sleeves
of an overdress. In fact, most of the overdresses I saw contemporaneous
with these short-sleeved underdresses had narrow sleeves, not wide ones
that would show off a fancy undersleeve.

That got me wondering whether the short-sleeved underdresses were
developed specifically to be worn under the (relatively new) 
narrow-sleeved overdresses -- maybe to reduce warmth and bulk on the arm. 
That development would leave the problem, however, of what happens when
you wear your underdress alone (which would have been done informally). 
Arms must be covered, and a chemise alone would be insufficient for
modesty. The answer would be a false sleeve, to be worn to complete the
outfit when the underdress is worn alone. The false sleeve would thus have
been made specifically to dress up the underdress, not to show out from
beneath an overdress. 

Before anyone misinterprets that: I'm not saying that false sleeves were
never worn with wide-sleeved overdresses; there are occasional images that
suggest a false sleeve. (For instance, the green dress in the month of May
in the Tres Riches Heures has big blue fringed undersleeves that might be
false, though that's from a slightly earlier period.) And I suppose
there's no way of knowing whether these false sleeves would have been
attached to a short-sleeved underdress or a long-sleeved one.

For all I know false sleeves might even have been worn with
narrower-sleeved overdresses, though the logic of doing this escapes me.
After all, if you accept the premise that the short-sleeved underdresses
existed specifically to be worn under the narrow-sleeved overgowns, then
it wouldn't make much sense to turn around and make the short sleeve long
again by adding a false extension. 

What I'd want to look for here, if I were chasing this down, is whether
wide-sleeved overgowns were still being worn by the time the short-sleeved
dresses appear (and in the same regions), and if so, if it looks like the
sleeves visible under these wide-sleeved overgowns are real or false (for
instance, do they match any visible underdress hem? are they plain or
fancy?). 

I will not be chasing this down anytime soon, however, as my books are all
boxed.  (I seem to be writing that a lot these days, sigh.) 

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 21:13:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 21:34:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
In-Reply-To: <37F40127.D60E909B@inreach.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 30 Sep 1999, Diana H wrote:

> I realize that this won't necessarily apply to all of us on the list,
> but I just stopped by my local Wal-Mart and picked up some decent 100%
> cotton velveteen for $4.74 a yard.  At the store I was in in Rocklin, CA
> they had black, a medium green, a sky blue, and a medium purple--not the
> usually gross colors you can get on a bargain table.

I remember some animated discussions over the last few years on the
composition of medieval and renaissance velvets, but I don't remember the
consensus. I seem to recall that one common combination was silk/cotton,
though I can't remember which was ground and which was pile.  Does anyone
know offhand whether cotton might have been used for both ground and pile?

And can one of the weaving experts remind me of the technical difference
between velvet and velveteen? I'm wondering how much of a stretch it would
be to substitute one for the other -- not just in accuracy, but in the way
the fabric behaves.

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 22:02:38 1999
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.990930213140.3378K-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 20:14:58 -0700
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> And can one of the weaving experts remind me of the technical difference
> between velvet and velveteen? I'm wondering how much of a stretch it would
> be to substitute one for the other -- not just in accuracy, but in the way
> the fabric behaves.

Most  velvet is Rayon.  It's very shiny and slippery.

Velveteen is usually cotton.  It's not shiny and it isn't slippery.  I used
it to make a doublet (late 16th century).  It was easy to work with, cleans
well in the washing machine and was relatively easy to work with.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 22:38:47 1999
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Ugly clothes I can't stand--those damnable retro chunky heels that are
about 6" too tall.

Talk about something that looks totally disportionate and is dangerous
too! >:(



					Arlys






					

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Sep 30 23:05:20 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 00:17:55 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.96.990930213140.3378K-100000@shell.nightowl.net
 >
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I remember some animated discussions over the last few years on the
>composition of medieval and renaissance velvets, but I don't remember >the
consensus. I seem to recall that one common combination was >silk/cotton,
though I can't remember which was ground and which was >pile.  Does anyone
know offhand whether cotton might have been used for >both ground and pile?

I've been trying to document cotton velvet used in the Ottoman empire
before 1600 but don't have any "official" dates for it yet.  My initial
impression from the little research I've done is, that it is certainly a
strong possibility.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 21:43:13 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:17 AM 10/01/1999, Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com> wrote:
>I've been trying to document cotton velvet used in the Ottoman empire
>before 1600 but don't have any "official" dates for it yet.  My initial
>impression from the little research I've done is, that it is certainly a
>strong possibility.
            If you find that documentation, please share it!  Good fortune
attend your search. Carol
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Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 00:05:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
In-Reply-To: <00a001bf0bbb$29aa9be0$8b3de4cf@danhome>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 30 Sep 1999, Dan Fenwick wrote:

> > And can one of the weaving experts remind me of the technical difference
> > between velvet and velveteen? I'm wondering how much of a stretch it would
> > be to substitute one for the other -- not just in accuracy, but in the way
> > the fabric behaves.
> 
> Most  velvet is Rayon.  It's very shiny and slippery.
> 
> Velveteen is usually cotton.  It's not shiny and it isn't slippery.  I used
> it to make a doublet (late 16th century).  It was easy to work with, cleans
> well in the washing machine and was relatively easy to work with.

Actually, I was wondering about the fibers used in the middle ages and
renaissance. I'm certain that velvet then wasn't rayon ;-)  As to
differences in weave, my concern is that I don't want to just rely on
looks in choosing a modern equivalent of a historic fabric. Replicating
the hang and stretch is vital for my work. So, if I found a modern cotten
velveteen that looked like a medieval velvet, would it behave differently
because of some difference in the woven structure?

I got curious enough to go hunt this up in the archives -- I had to plow
through a ton of posts (this list sure uses the word "velveteen" a lot!). 
The list spent a large chunk of 1998 talking about the differences between
velvet (which forms the pile from the warp) and velveteen (which forms the
pile from the weft). Also, someone pointed out that cotton was generally
not strong enough to be a warp thread in the middle ages, so velvets were
more likely to have silk or wool pile; a cotton-pile fabric would most
likely have been velveteen, because the cotton would have been used for
the weft. (I hope I have that right.) I suppose a cotton weft could have
formed part of the ground of a silk velvet, though. 

Conclusion: Velveteen was a medieval weave, too. (I still haven't tracked
down when it started being used popularly for clothing rather than just
bed hangings and the like.)

Finding this much took me about an hour of searching, but it was a very
interesting hour, though I really should have been working. 

If anyone else wants to catch up, the meatiest bits were in July 1998.

And I'd like to give public thanks to Eric Praetzel for setting up the
searchable archives at <http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives>.  An
invaluable resource. 

--Robin

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Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
>Most  velvet is Rayon.  It's very shiny and slippery.

Velvets also come in a cotton/rayon (like Matinee' velvet), 100% cotton and
wool. It is a different weave than velveteen as was described awhile ago.

>Velveteen is usually cotton.  It's not shiny and it isn't slippery.  I used
>it to make a doublet (late 16th century).  It was easy to work with, cleans
>well in the washing machine and was relatively easy to work with.

Velveteen usually has a different type of pile and it is pressed into a
directional nap. Some velvets have no nap.

Velvets can be pressed directional too. IMHO, matinee' and 100% velvets are
better representations of period velvets, but velveteens aren't bad. All
seem better than the thin pile seen on most rayon and modern silk velvets
to me.

Julie Adams


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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 22:23:25 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Ball has Begun
In-Reply-To: <19990930175910.ELBD14188.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 11:03 AM 09/30/1999, "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com> wrote: Anyone else
having trouble with this URL?
           I am.  I clicked on the coach and it didn't go anywhere...and
Netscape won't page through, either. :-(   Carol
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: impropper attire
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

my mother tried to get me to show up at the Historical
>Society's prim and proper tea wearing my Bloomers. 

A friend of mine made a carefully researched 1870's bathing costume just so
she could 'streak' Living History Days in it.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 02:44:37 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 09:40:06 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Washing fur...
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>My father's girlfriend has 6 or 7 fur coats and she cleans them with 
>cornstarch...like you would a hamster, you can't get the hamsters wet ( or 
>aren't supposed to) so you rub them in the cornstarch and it takes the oil 
>and dirt etc off them, 

This is the method used for cleaning feathers and ostrich plumes.  Except
that you put those in a plastic bag full of the cornstarch - not
recommended for hamsters.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Washing fur...
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I've had good luck with putting
>it in a big plastic trash bag with a box of cornmeal, shaking vigorously,
>and letting it sit for a day.  

Do you mean cornmeal, or cornstarch?


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 10:22:31 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: H-Costume Least-favourite styles 
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Anyone else have any periods/styles they just *can't stand*?

The worst has got to be house dresses from about 1914 to 1925 - talk about
dowdy... 

My favourite silly periods are: 

-The late 1820's - early 1830's, because of the general overdone-ness.  I
want one almost enough to actually make one, complete with all the
compulsive hand-sewn details.

-1922 doing Georgian, dropped waist and all.  I got a real one of these
from a friend's mother who got it from the San Francisco Opera.  It's made
of silver-threaded pale blue silk sari fabric and has pleated organza
sleeve ruffles.  If I were skinny I'd make one of these too.  (I have a
doll from this period who is doing 1922-waist-Elizabethan, and it's pretty
funny.)  The illustrations in "The Real Mother Goose are similarly silly,
but they're a little earlier. 

-Multi-coloured platform shoes from the 70's, the uglier the better.  I
used to own a truly egregious example of these, but the got lost.  Modern
retro-look ones just don't have what it takes here.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 02:44:39 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 09:50:27 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: Cavalier visual weight gain
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9909300853540.18460-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>I don't like the Cavalier look much either; it's the only style I've seen 
>that can make a woman gain 20 visual pounds just by putting it on.

Funny - on my they take off about 20 pounds.  200 - 20 = not too bad.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Recycling
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Still, last time I found a smocking pleater for $8! They had no idea what
>it was. It has all its bits, though a couple tiny round things could stand
>replacing; should be pretty easy.
>
>Now I need to figure out what to do with it..!

Make Renaissance shirt necks, male or female.  (I'm so jealous)


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Washing fur...
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>I actually want to use it to line a german ren 'partlet', 

Period Germans called this thing a 'gollar'.  It's really great for keeping
your uncovered bits warm around the neckline of the early German Ren. dresses.


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 10:25:44 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
In-Reply-To: <l03130300b419ff11ab97@[207.167.66.75]>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Velvets also come in a cotton/rayon (like Matinee' velvet), 100% cotton and
>wool. 

Wool velvet is called plush, and is available thru teddy bear making supply
houses.  It's seriously expensive.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 02:52:04 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 10:34:00 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: cauls
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>Instructions for netting hairnets in the 1838  Workwoman's
>Guide talk about threading a ribbon through the outer edge
>of the netted hairnet as the finishing step.  I think the
>crocheted snood may be a 20th century thing, maybe even
>1970's, but that's just a guess on my part.

You can do the same with a doily from a thrift store.


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 10:37:07 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re:recycling favorite
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990924083939.00bcc280@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Also
>in that day's haul were three sterling silver Harvey (something - named
>after the tourist store) bracelets from like the 1930's, also @$5. each.

I think the name given that kind of bracelet is Fred Harvey, but I haven't
been to the Grand Canyon lately to check.  They're a flat strip of silver
with stamped designs in them, allegedly telling a story.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 02:52:06 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 10:31:22 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 16thCen bodices not matching skirts...
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

There's a partial picture in Davenport's book on page 438.  Davenport calls
it 'A Horsleydown Wedding'.  There's another picture, full colour, in my
Anne Boleyn book which, of course, I can't find now.  (That one's a two
page spread with plenty of detail visible.)

Margo Anderson writes, in a message sent 09:19 A 09/30/99 -0700:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>
>>
>>There are a couple of mismatched bodices and skirts on the figures 
>>in the "Fete at Bermondsey" by Joris Hoefnagel... (I think I've heard 
>>it referred to as the "Wedding at Bermondsey too?) 
>
>Okay, I've been hearing about this painting for years, and I've never
>mananged to locate a copy.  It's not on the Web.  Can anyone tell me the
>title of a book in which I can find a decent copy, hopefully one which I can
>get from ILL?  
>
>Failing that, Teddy, do you recall a price on that poster version?  I assume
>it's not available in the US, but perhaps we could work something out?
>
>
>Margo Anderson
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 04:20:22 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 11:42:05 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Cavalier visual weight gain
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


> >I don't like the Cavalier look much either; it's the only style I've seen 
> >that can make a woman gain 20 visual pounds just by putting it on.
> 
> Funny - on my they take off about 20 pounds.  200 - 20 = not too bad.
>  >>
>
>LOL...good one.
>
>Like the 1830-40s comment, I just don't get it. Fay Dunnaway doesn't look fat 
>in "3 Musketeers"....and the camera is supposed to add 20 lb.!

Yes, but Geraldine Chaplin looked absolutely upholstered!  Large bones vs.
small ones.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 04:20:55 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 12:06:40 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk - Elizabethan
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>It's made
>>of silver-threaded pale blue silk sari silk
>
>Here's an question:
>
>Could you use sari silk as a part of Elizabethan or Tudor?

Sari-weight silk has to be lightweight to hang right.  It's really scarfy
and floaty, altho there is a 5" wide cotton facing at the hem (modern) to
make the pleats behave.  Elizabethan or Tudor silks were stiffer than that.
 IF you got appropriately patterned silk, and IF you lined the bejeebers
out of it to make sure it was stiff enough, you'd probably end up with the
right look. 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 04:37:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 12:36:15 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: improper attire
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Kayta>  A friend of mine made a carefully researched 1870's bathing costume
>just so
>she could 'streak' Living History Days in it.
>
>Thanks Kayta, glad you liked it!
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes

Oops - Two friends of mine made carefully researched etc.  They tried to
talk me into it, but I'm shy.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 04:40:21 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 12:11:11 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk brocade
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>All this talk about silk brocades got me to thinking; how about Chinese silk
>brocades?  I'm wondering if the patterns can be justified for Elizabethan.
>How much trade was coming in?  I have some heavy black with silver filigree
>and gold crythamums on it...I can scan some, if you need a picture.

Not for Elizabethan.  The patterns just aren't right, tho the weight is
much better than sari silk is.  I used some dragon patterned silk for a
guy's Regency vest, but I felt even that was pushing it (the guy likes
Oriental dragons, and loved the vest...).


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 12:15:14 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk - obis
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>For good heavy silk brocades, though, i think I'd be inclined to look
>for Japanese kimono silk or obi.

Weight - yes.  Pattern - I don't think so.  I've never seen a patterned obi
that looked like Elizabethan brocade, tho I've seen some drop-dead gorgeous
obis.



Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 04:43:26 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 12:06:12 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "sari silk" - take world by storm
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

"Sari silk" and dupionni silk seem to have taken the 
>world by storm in the last few years, 

It's Halloween, so I have been hitting the local thrift stores pretty hard.
 Slim pickings this year, but I got a thin cotton batik sari, complete with
border and palu (=the decorated end to throw over the shoulder) for $2.
Seems the Saver's chain of thrifts (SF Bay area) think saris are just 6
yards of cloth, price them accordingly, and throw them in the bins with the
rest of the cloth.  I also found an all white sari, with detached floats at
regular intervals, which ought to do nicely for English Regency, border and
all.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 04:46:10 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 12:07:05 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk - separate sari trim
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

> Elizabethan brocades seem to have been allover patterns, not borders.  the
>borders on skirts, etc, were usually separately embroidered guards.  
>
>You could probably make sari fabric look good for Elizabethan if you chose
>it well and cut judiciously, but I wouldn't use it as is, say, using the
>brocaded border as the hem of a skirt. I think it would just look too much
>like a sari.  

Some sari stores have separate gold-threaded trim, available only in like
9-yard hunks.  Sometimes these border trims show up in trim places for more
per yard than the sari stores sell it for, but they will cut to length
where the sari stores won't.  Anyway, a few of these trims have appropriate
patterns for Ren. use.  Use these and knock 'em dead with real gold (real
gold plate over copper wire). 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 04:49:58 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 12:29:17 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Catherine of Aragon
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Michelle writes, in a message sent 03:55 P 10/04/99 -0700: 
>
> Does anyone have any idea what the white trim? is on her shoulders?  It
> almost looks like her corset shows through her armhole but after closer
> inspection the paler fabric appears to be sewn on top. Since it is
> undecorated and looks to be a lesser cost weave, I am very confused as to
> what it's purpose is. 


We went thru this on this list a while ago.  I thought it was a train hanger,
and other people thought it was something else.  Check in the archives for this
thread.



Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 04:50:06 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 12:32:25 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Julie Adams writes, in a message sent 09:18 P 10/01/99 -0800:
>
>-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
>
>>Wool velvet is called plush, and is available thru teddy bear making supply
>>houses.  It's seriously expensive.
>
>Cool! I got mine years ago at an apholstery shop in Santa Ana, CA. It was
>made for auto apholstery I think. It is VERY thick and has 30% cashmere and
>less than 1% of some synthetic (which is applied as a backing), but doesn't
>look very teddybearish, so perhaps its a bit different. It makes GREAT
>armor though... The nap is so full that I had to handsew all the banding
>because it would just slip one way or the other. I called all over Orange
>County CA to find it. It was about $32 at the time (12 yrs ago or so) but I
>lucked out and found part of it as a 75% off remnant. I made my husband an
>SCA fighting waffenrock and he still wears it. Overall it still looks ok,
>but the velveteen banding has worn its nap away in places. The wool that
>goes under his breastplate has been patched, but the skirt itself still
>looks pretty good.

Keep the holes.  Nothing makes a garment look more like clothes and less
like a costume than wear.  BTW, were the period Germans using wool velvet?
I know the Italians were weaving velvet by this time - did they do it in wool?


Kayta
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