From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 07:29:39 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: velvet vs. velveteen
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<Most  velvet is Rayon.  It's very shiny and slippery.

Velveteen is usually cotton.  It's not shiny and it isn't slippery.  >>

This is strictly modern, of course.

There is a huge difference between velvet and velveteen, because they are
two completely different weave structures, and both can be made with any
fiber (i.e. you could have cotton velvet, and silk velveteen.)

Velvet is a supplementary warp structure, and is woven in two layers that
must be cut apart (as in cut velvet.) In other words, the pile comes from
extra warp. In velveteen, extra weft creates the pile. According to
Florence Montgomery, velveteen was *new* in 1776, as an improvement on
velveret (which is not smooth, but ribbed like modern corduroy, and dates
no earlier than the eary 18c.)

<<would it behave differently because of some difference in the woven
structure?>>

Yes, very definitely. It would behave differently because of the fiber as
well -- some early velvets had linen warps and wool or mohair piles, for
instance.


Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 07:36:41 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <ICG-L@lists.best.com>, <f-costume@indra.com>, <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: CC20 payments
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 16:37:06 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

To clarify the upgrade payment for Costume-Con 20 memberships...

If you have paid a supporting or pre-supporting amount, simply pay the
balance to bring your full amount up to the going rate...

eg: I have paid US$25 and want to buy full membership, I must pay US$35 to
bring it to the full amount of US$60.

I have paid A$40 and want to buy full membership, I must pay A$60 to bring
it to the full amount of A$100.

I have paid C$30 and want to buy full membership, I must pay C$70 to bring
it to the full amount of C$100.

I have paid $1,000,000 and want a refund down to the correct amount, I am
sunk because they will just use my money to go to Rio.

A note on the different amounts in different countries:
The amounts people are paying in various countries are more-or-less equal,
that is, they are keyed to average exchange rates between currencies and
were rounded down to the nearest ten bucks at the time they were set.

The same process of keeping payments equal will be used when the price hike
happens in December, 2001.

If your currency is not represented in the price scales, either contact us
or (go out on a limb and) send us the equivalent of $100 Australian.


-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 08:17:00 1999
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Message-ID: <ca1ce29f.25261167@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 09:30:15 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Cavalier visual weight gain
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/01/1999 4:00:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<< 
 >I don't like the Cavalier look much either; it's the only style I've seen 
 >that can make a woman gain 20 visual pounds just by putting it on.
 
 Funny - on my they take off about 20 pounds.  200 - 20 = not too bad.
  >>

LOL...good one.

Like the 1830-40s comment, I just don't get it. Fay Dunnaway doesn't look fat 
in "3 Musketeers"....and the camera is supposed to add 20 lb.!

All these periods, 1830s 1840s 1630s, suffer [like 1800s] if the fabrics are 
not "just so"....usually light and airy. The real 1830s dress we put on 
Jasmine Guy in "Queen" was very fine, with a delicate yellow swirling pattern 
printed on it. The Gigot sleeves were not clunky [like you can get in the 
1890s] but a ball of air. The whole gown moved at the slightest breeze. 
Absolutely beautiful.
The 1840s is another period I love. The "plainness" of the designs with, 
again, fantastic fabrics being the key to decoration [as opposed to braids 
and ribbons] if any.

About the only period I can truly see difficulty getting into the aesthetic 
is that brief stint in 1820s...where the waist is not quite at the waist but 
not under the bust either, and the hem is laden with all manner of appliqué & 
trims. But, as with every period, with the right hat, lace collar, shawl, 
mitts... accessories ....it comes to life and gets me excited.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 09:47:34 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Technical Problems
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 10:58:10 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I am sorry some of you had problems getting into the Ball yesterday.  One of
our server lines went down yesterday, which bogged down the other servers.
First problem in two years, that's a pretty good record. The problem is
fixed, and you may now play on the Ball without problems.  To go to the
Ball, http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm  I did add
two more historic costume pages to the Ball last night.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 10:38:41 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 12:01:13 -0500
From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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Subject: H-COST: More (New) Tudor Images
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-Poster: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>

I've added a few more images to the Tudor dress page. This time the
images are taken from monumental brasses, a medium which, despite its
obvious limitations, often offers some interesting details. Check it out
at:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor


- Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 12:00:45 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 10:16:59 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re:recycling favorite
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Fred Harvey is a name associated with Navajo rugs - it may be with other
things too.
The Fred Harvey company was known for purchasing hundreds of thousands of
red-back-white-grey blankets or rugs from the Hubbel trading post area and
selling them to the *anglo* market. In fact this practice was often known as
blankets or rugs by the pound as they were often paid for by weight and not
for their artistic value. Mass buying created a demand and weavers strove to
weave more of this type rug so that they could sell them.
It must be remembered that Navajo Rugs were originally *blankets* not to be
confused with what we would put on a bed - they were worn, much like
blankets are worn in India.  In that regard they are definitely historic
costume.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Re:recycling favorite
>Date: Fri, Sep 24, 1999, 10:37 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
>Also
>>in that day's haul were three sterling silver Harvey (something - named
>>after the tourist store) bracelets from like the 1930's, also @$5. each.
>
>I think the name given that kind of bracelet is Fred Harvey, but I haven't
>been to the Grand Canyon lately to check.  They're a flat strip of silver
>with stamped designs in them, allegedly telling a story.
>
>
>Kayta
>     ////.\\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 (((
>     |   -- ))))
>     * )   (((((
>  /----\   /---\
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 12:00:46 1999
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From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Sari Silk
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 12:13:43 -0500
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-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>


It's made
>of silver-threaded pale blue silk sari silk

Here's an question:

Could you use sari silk as a part of Elizabethan or Tudor?
Anya

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 12:01:57 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 10:18:25 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Velvet also come in silk.  It is very nice.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
>Date: Fri, Sep 24, 1999, 10:25 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
>
>>Velvets also come in a cotton/rayon (like Matinee' velvet), 100% cotton
and
>>wool. 
>
>Wool velvet is called plush, and is available thru teddy bear making supply
>houses.  It's seriously expensive.
>
>
>Kayta
>     ////.\\\
>    ////-@@\\\
>   ((((   7 (((
>     |   -- ))))
>     * )   (((((
>  /----\   /---\
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 12:23:41 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 10:29:50 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Could you use sari silk as a part of Elizabethan or Tudor?

It would probably have to be interlined to give it stability, it's
pretty drapey stuff.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 12:24:32 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 10:32:41 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

There is no such thing as *sari silk*.  This sounds like there is a type of
silk known as sari silk and there is no such thing.
Do you mean silk that was woven to be used as a saree?
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: Sari Silk
>Date: Fri, Oct 1, 1999, 10:13 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
>
>
>It's made
>>of silver-threaded pale blue silk sari silk
>
>Here's an question:
>
>Could you use sari silk as a part of Elizabethan or Tudor?
>Anya
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 12:41:25 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: improper attire
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 10:52:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>



Kayta>  A friend of mine made a carefully researched 1870's bathing costume
just so
she could 'streak' Living History Days in it.

Thanks Kayta, glad you liked it!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 12:45:19 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 09:52 AM 09/24/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
>I've had good luck with putting
>>it in a big plastic trash bag with a box of cornmeal, shaking vigorously,
>>and letting it sit for a day.  
>
>Do you mean cornmeal, or cornstarch?


Cornmeal.  the slight roughness of the particles dry shampoos the fur.
Cornstarch is good, too, but for removing oils.  I suppose you could use
both at once for dirt and oils.

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 13:01:43 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 10:29 AM 10/01/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> Could you use sari silk as a part of Elizabethan or Tudor?
>
>It would probably have to be interlined to give it stability, it's
>pretty drapey stuff.
>
I believe Janet Arnold once said that modern metallic brocaded sari fabrics
were the closest thing to Elizabethan brocades we can get today. 

 I don't see it, myself.  Even with substantial flatlining, the fabrics
don't have the same sorts of patterns.  Brocaded saris usually have a wide
decorated border on one selvedge, a narrower one on the other side, spot
motifs or an allover pattern on the body of the cloth, and an elaborately
decorated area about a foot deep on one end, for the part that goes over the
head. 

 Elizabethan brocades seem to have been allover patterns, not borders.  the
borders on skirts, etc, were usually separately embroidered guards.  

You could probably make sari fabric look good for Elizabethan if you chose
it well and cut judiciously, but I wouldn't use it as is, say, using the
brocaded border as the hem of a skirt. I think it would just look too much
like a sari.  

Now, if I won the lottery and price was no object for the Elizabethan of my
dreams (a scenario I spend much too much time daydreaming about)  I'd go to
one of the Italian decorator fabric houses, and get them to custom weave me
some real gold and silver tissue.  And then I'd go to Brussels and get some
lace made,  and to Paris to have Lesage embroider the guards, and.....

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 13:16:06 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 18:20:58 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Message-ID: <37f4f5f6.111546427@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Fri, 01 Oct 1999 10:32:41 -0700, the following was written in this
electric book by "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>:

>
>
>There is no such thing as *sari silk*.  This sounds like there is a type of
>silk known as sari silk and there is no such thing.
>Do you mean silk that was woven to be used as a saree?
>~!~ R.L.Shep

Actually, to be perfectly fair, *colloquially*, 'silk that was woven
to be used as a saree' is known by most non-East Indian people as
'sari silk' or just 'sari'. This usage is quite familiar to me from my
youth, when I lived in an area with a large East Indian population.

I knew lots of people who would refer to buying the silk that is
usually seen in sari-shop window displays as buying 'sari silk'.
Usually these people were purchasing it for period costume, but
sometimes my mother's freinds who bellydanced would refer to doing
this, to buy fabric for cabaret costumes.

The colloquial definition of the term 'sari silk' as I have heard it
used for most of my life:

	The fancy, often heavily figured light silks, often accented,
	 highlighted or shot with metallic threads, with woven-in border
	 patterns along one selvedge and often with woven borders on the
	 ends of the piece as well. This can often be had for much more
	 reasonable prices than other fancy figured silks, because the shops
	 that sell it generally keep their prices low to keep business
	 within the community.  

This is distinct from 'silk from India' because that covers so many
different types of fabric. Interestingly, ikat, even if intended to
worn as a sari, always seems to be described as ikat. 

The abbreviation 'sari silk' for the above rather long definition has
also been heard to be used by freinds of mine from the east cost, who
did not pick it up from me, but from colloquial use in their area. I
asked, because I wasn't sure it was the same colloquial use that I
knew.

Satisfied?

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 13:35:02 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 11:48:53 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

It is not a question of being *satisfied*.  there are any number of silks
that can be used for sarees: mulberry, tussah, mugha as well as different
weights and weaves.
However it is nice to know what you are talking about.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
>Date: Fri, Oct 1, 1999, 11:20 AM
>

>
>-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
>
>On Fri, 01 Oct 1999 10:32:41 -0700, the following was written in this
>electric book by "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>:
>
>>
>>
>>There is no such thing as *sari silk*.  This sounds like there is a type
of
>>silk known as sari silk and there is no such thing.
>>Do you mean silk that was woven to be used as a saree?
>>~!~ R.L.Shep
>
>Actually, to be perfectly fair, *colloquially*, 'silk that was woven
>to be used as a saree' is known by most non-East Indian people as
>'sari silk' or just 'sari'. This usage is quite familiar to me from my
>youth, when I lived in an area with a large East Indian population.
>
>I knew lots of people who would refer to buying the silk that is
>usually seen in sari-shop window displays as buying 'sari silk'.
>Usually these people were purchasing it for period costume, but
>sometimes my mother's freinds who bellydanced would refer to doing
>this, to buy fabric for cabaret costumes.
>
>The colloquial definition of the term 'sari silk' as I have heard it
>used for most of my life:
>
> The fancy, often heavily figured light silks, often accented,
>  highlighted or shot with metallic threads, with woven-in border
>  patterns along one selvedge and often with woven borders on the
>  ends of the piece as well. This can often be had for much more
>  reasonable prices than other fancy figured silks, because the shops
>  that sell it generally keep their prices low to keep business
>  within the community.  
>
>This is distinct from 'silk from India' because that covers so many
>different types of fabric. Interestingly, ikat, even if intended to
>worn as a sari, always seems to be described as ikat. 
>
>The abbreviation 'sari silk' for the above rather long definition has
>also been heard to be used by freinds of mine from the east cost, who
>did not pick it up from me, but from colloquial use in their area. I
>asked, because I wasn't sure it was the same colloquial use that I
>knew.
>
>Satisfied?
>
>Margery
>"Do you have any files?"
>"We're the government, of course we have files."
>Millenium
>{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}


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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 14:59:56 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> one of the Italian decorator fabric houses, and get them to custom weave me
> some real gold and silver tissue.  And then I'd go to Brussels and get some
> lace made,  and to Paris to have Lesage embroider the guards, and.....

I once saw, at Britex's ground floor, red-and-gold silk brocade with an
additional metallic gold thread, that looked *very* close to those 1400s
fancy brocades and figured velvets.  It was, however, $150/yard.  Drool.

--
The most outrageous lies that can be invented will find believers if a
person only tells them with all his might. --  Mark Twain
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 13:52:43 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I once saw, at Britex's ground floor, red-and-gold silk brocade with an
>additional metallic gold thread, that looked *very* close to those 1400s
>fancy brocades and figured velvets.  It was, however, $150/yard.  Drool.

I saw that, too.  I was tempted to grab the bolt and see just how fast I
could run.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 14:10:10 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 15:23:32 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Ok, Margo and I will form the nucleus of the new Britex Strike Team --
any other takers?

Meanwhile, for those with more lawful inclinations, I did see at Calico
Corners that they are selling 100% silk brocades, single colors, in
plausibly late medieval or early renaissance patterns.  They are in the
swatches to order section, and are about $80/yard.  (No, their website
does not list or show fabrics, alas.)

cv
--
For those going to Collegium in Cynagua next week, I'll be visiting and
doing a hat class.
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Subject: H-COST: Re: aesthetic dress
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



My impression is that aesthetic dress was actually more popular than you 
might guess today. A couple of years ago, when I was interested in 
reproducing an aesthetic gown, I couldn't find more than a handful of photos 
of any of them. But I found plenty of written references. It was popular 
enough for "Punch" to run cartoons about it, and Gilbert and Sullivan to 
write an operetta about it ("Patience" -- I've never seen it but the book is 
hilarious). In addition to dress, the "aesthetic" look was part of an entire 
look in furniture, decorating, dishes, and literature. So while it was daring 
and anti-fashion, it wasn't quite as counter-culture as the whole Bohemian 
thing, which is fascinating in itself.

Gail Finke
an aesthetic at heart . . .

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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 13:38:19 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> My impression is that aesthetic dress was actually more popular than you
> might guess today. [snip]  In addition to dress, the "aesthetic" look was part
> of an entire
> look in furniture, decorating, dishes, and literature. So while it was daring
> and anti-fashion, it wasn't quite as counter-culture as the whole Bohemian
> thing, which is fascinating in itself.

Can someone explain "aesthetic dress" to me?  Many thanks,
Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 13:44:29 -0700
From: "The Adjutant's Office" <adjutant@asu.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Banner Silk--Slightly OT
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "The Adjutant's Office" <adjutant@asu.edu>


Hi...

Does anyone know exactly what "banner silk" is and if it is still
available? I want to make a flag, but I'm not having much luck so far
finding the fabric....

Thanks...

Cynthia
adjutant@asu.edu
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 17:50:50 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 15:16:54 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk/lottery
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Added to your lottery list might be a double ikat silk saree from Patan,
India.  These are often known as Patola.  There are only 2 families that
weave them now.
Price - around US$10,000.OO for a good saree.  Wheeeeeee!
I went there and bought a small piece of a ruined saree as a present for a
friend.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk/lottery
>Date: Fri, Oct 1, 1999, 11:59 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>Margo Anderson wrote:
>> one of the Italian decorator fabric houses, and get them to custom weave
me
>> some real gold and silver tissue.  And then I'd go to Brussels and get
some
>> lace made,  and to Paris to have Lesage embroider the guards, and.....
>
>I once saw, at Britex's ground floor, red-and-gold silk brocade with an
>additional metallic gold thread, that looked *very* close to those 1400s
>fancy brocades and figured velvets.  It was, however, $150/yard.  Drool.
>
>--
>The most outrageous lies that can be invented will find believers if a
>person only tells them with all his might. --  Mark Twain


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 18:09:30 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk/lottery
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 19:25:53 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

>Meanwhile, for those with more lawful inclinations, I did see at Calico
>Corners that they are selling 100% silk brocades, single colors, in
>plausibly late medieval or early renaissance patterns.  They are in the
>swatches to order section, and are about $80/yard.  (No, their website
>does not list or show fabrics, alas.)


Designer Fabric Outlet in Toronto (known to afficionados as the "Orange Bag
Store") carries some *wonderful* fairly-close-to-period (several periods,
depending on the design, later Middle Ages and Renaissance) silk brocades in
the $75-$90 CDN range.  I didn't win the lottery, but we did receive some
inheritance money that allowed me to buy some of a gorgeous red and gold
silk with stylized animals that really reminded me of some 13th century
textiles I saw at the V&A.

Susan

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From: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Silk brocade
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 14:53:07 -0700
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-Poster: "Lee" <smadsen@primenet.com>

All this talk about silk brocades got me to thinking; how about Chinese silk
brocades?  I'm wondering if the patterns can be justified for Elizabethan.
How much trade was coming in?  I have some heavy black with silver filigree
and gold crythamums on it...I can scan some, if you need a picture.

Kels

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 18:38:37 1999
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From: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 19:52:35 -0400
Subject: H-COST: "sari silk"
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-Poster: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>

Greetings.
 Well, on the whole, I've seen just too many costumes made from 
sari fabrics."Sari silk" and dupionni silk seem to have taken the 
world by storm in the last few years, and everyone's using them, 
whether they're appropriate or not.
 But I was judging at an arts competition this past weekend, and 
there was a very nice costume made out of a quite different quality 
of "Sari silk". It was much heavier and supple, with an all-over 
pattern. I think that perhaps there was too much "sari silk" in 
combination in the dress to suit the style and period, but the 
individual elements worked well, and the workmanship seemed to 
be exemplary.
 One of the fabrics used in the skirts had a distinctly Jacobean 
flavour to it.It was a very heavy cream silk with a brocaded pattern, 
and the sleeves were another heavy silk in red with a small all-over 
pattern in gold.
 A bit of overkill, perhaps, but certainly some appealing fabrics!

Vandy Simpson
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 19:20:18 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "sari silk"
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 20:38:12 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


-Greetings!

> But I was judging at an arts competition this past weekend, and
>there was a very nice costume made out of a quite different quality
>of "Sari silk". It was much heavier and supple, with an all-over
>pattern.

I think a lot of folks assume that all "sari silk" is light and floaty.  Not
so. If you're lucky enough to live in a city with a substantial East Indian
population and a number of "sari stores," you'll see a number of weights of
silk and types of patterning. Many of the more pricy saris have a fair bit
of weight to them, and so they "hang right." These are not fabrics that you
can see through when you hold them up to the light--quite the opposite!
Furthermore, they don't have the slubbed look of dupionni, but rather the
glow and sheen of high-quality, high-density silk.

I think I know the outfit Vandy describes, and the silks are indeed
stunning, and have earned the lady who made the outfit a jealous glance or
twenty.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 19:58:55 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 18:15:21 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Washing fur...
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>Does it need to be washed because it has some Foul Substance on it, or is it
>just dirty and matted?  If it's the second, I've had good luck with putting
>it in a big plastic trash bag with a box of cornmeal, shaking vigorously,
>and letting it sit for a day.  Then take it out and throughly shake out the
>cornmeal.  You may need to vaccuum it gently.  

The difficulty is that I purchased it at a thrift shop, out of a bin. I
don't know what has been done to it, and I would like it to be....
sterilized somewhat before lining a hood with it..

Kris

Yes, I'm picky :]

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 20:04:17 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 18:16:52 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Technical Problems
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 10:58 AM 10/01/1999, "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
wrote:
>I am sorry some of you had problems getting into the Ball yesterday.  One of
>our server lines went down yesterday, which bogged down the other servers.
>Later... Penny
        For the record, I didn't think it was anything you did, Penny.  I'm
glad to see it's fixed though--I really was looking forward to
visiting...thank you! Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 20:26:01 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 18:41:05 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gamurra pleats
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 01:05 PM 30/09/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Elizabeth Jones <ljones@us.oracle.com>
>Oh, I wanted to add about these pleats (to my previous long reply): They
>look like box pleats, as do my own knife pleats. I originally tried box
>pleats with this dress, but could not get the pleats full enough to
>provide that kind of volume, and yet not go beyond about 2" across. So I
>did this peculiar knife pleat: fold twice the width (about 4" across) in
>one direction, and then double back over itself. This ends up looking
>like a box pleat on the outside, but a knife pleat on the inside.  I did

I have a skirt where I knife pleated about 4.5 - 5 metres of fanric to a
32" waistband :] I used a rectangular piece of fabric, and it worked very
well, and actually looks quite similar (after going back and comparing
skirt to picture). I think I'm going to do it that way, because at least I
understand how they work & how much fabric I need...

Thanks so much for the help, tho..

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 20:46:41 1999
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Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 22:00:32 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banner Silk--Slightly OT
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Try Dharma Trading Co. in San Francisco.8005425227.They have various weights 
of 'banner silk'.We've ordered it from them by the bolt, although one can 
also purchase smaller amounts.We'ver used 5 mm(very lightweight) as well as 
8mm(heavier) The 8 mm wears better.Takes dyes beautifully.They sell dies, 
resists, and the tools for applying same.Nice folks to deal with.
Good luck!
Albra
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Washing fur...
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

  
>
>The difficulty is that I purchased it at a thrift shop, out of a bin. I
>don't know what has been done to it, and I would like it to be....
>sterilized somewhat before lining a hood with it..
>
Well, I don't know if you can actually sterilize fur, but if you're worried
about small creatures, you might want to seal it in a plastic bag and freeze
it for 48 hours.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 21:29:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 19:46:06 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Washing fur...
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>Well, I don't know if you can actually sterilize fur, but if you're worried
>about small creatures, you might want to seal it in a plastic bag and freeze
>it for 48 hours.  

I like the sounds of this!
I must try it this week sometime :]

Thanks you!

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 21:31:42 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 19:47:04 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-Costume Least-favourite styles (WAS: H-COST: New FO)
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

lilinah@grin.net wrote:
> 
> -Poster: lilinah@grin.net
> 
> My least favorite style is the bustle dress of the 1870's and 1880's,
> especially the ones that have a very narrow skirt decorated with "garlands"
> of trim. It isn't the "big butt" of the bustle that bothers me. I don't
> like these dresses from the front.

Oh, this is my absolute *favorite* period - beats the early 1880's with
the "tea cart" bustle.  My best costume is an 1878 bustle with the
cuirass bodice and close fitting skirt and *yards* of ruffle - I get a
lot of compliments on it at costume events.

Carolyn
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 19:57:43 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk/lottery
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> >I once saw, at Britex's ground floor, red-and-gold silk brocade with an
> >additional metallic gold thread, that looked *very* close to those 1400s
> >fancy brocades and figured velvets.  It was, however, $150/yard.  Drool.
> 
> I saw that, too.  I was tempted to grab the bolt and see just how fast I
> could run.
> 
> Margo

Yeah, me too back in January 1998.  Giles and I sat there and fondled
it  for a while. <sigh>

Carolyn
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 20:07:29 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> I believe Janet Arnold once said that modern metallic brocaded sari fabrics
> were the closest thing to Elizabethan brocades we can get today.
> 
>  I don't see it, myself.  Even with substantial flatlining, the fabrics
> don't have the same sorts of patterns.  Brocaded saris usually have a wide
> decorated border on one selvedge, a narrower one on the other side, spot
> motifs or an allover pattern on the body of the cloth, and an elaborately
> decorated area about a foot deep on one end, for the part that goes over the
> head.
> 
>  Elizabethan brocades seem to have been allover patterns, not borders.  the
> borders on skirts, etc, were usually separately embroidered guards.
> 
> You could probably make sari fabric look good for Elizabethan if you chose
> it well and cut judiciously, but I wouldn't use it as is, say, using the
> brocaded border as the hem of a skirt. I think it would just look too much
> like a sari.

I agree with what Margo said with regard to sari fabric and Elizabethans
- I haven't really seen one yet that I would think would fit the brocade
patterns of elizabethan.  

But as someone else said, sari come in a lot of weights.  I've
successfully used them for Regency (the light airy stuff) and 1870's
bustle dresses (this was an antique sari I got at a swap meet).  Many
sari are quite heavy, although with the current "fad" in Indian patterns
and fabrics they've also got rather expensive on the used market, which
is where I normally buy them.  I can still sometimes find them at thrift
stores like the Salvation army or Goodwill for around $20 for the good
light-weight silk ones.

For good heavy silk brocades, though, i think I'd be inclined to look
for Japanese kimono silk or obi.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 22:24:28 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 20:26:06 -0700
From: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
Organization: Well, I wouldn't call it organized......
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Magdalen sleeves
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-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>

Robin Netherton wrote:

> -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>
> On Thu, 30 Sep 1999, Elizabeth Jones wrote:
>
> > >Well, first off, the dress she's seen wearing is her underdress,
> over
> > >which would have gone a fashionable gown (as is indicated by the
> fancy
> > >embroidered/brocaded sleeve).
>
> -- That isn't what I think I see.  Her sleeve has a pin, which leads
> me to
> -- believe that the sleeves are not part of a dress but, pinned on to
> make
> -- her plain and sleeveless gown more fashionable.
>
> > I believe the first set of comments is more accurate. This is a
> > representation of (dare I say it?) a kirtle or underdress. Sorry,
> don't
> > know the Flemish/French  term as we have already discussed. The
> sleeves
> > were pinned on to a short sleeved underdress, but would have shown
> under
> > her overdress - houppelande, etc.
>
> That was my assumption for a long time, no doubt because I read that
> explanation somewhere years ago. But after spending a lot of time
> studying
> 15th-century Flemish dress last year, I've been rethinking that idea.
> There's no doubt that the short-sleeved dress is an underdress, but
> once I
> started looking, I didn't see any pictures that jumped out at me as
> being
> examples of fancy false sleeves showing out from under the large
> sleeves
> of an overdress. In fact, most of the overdresses I saw
> contemporaneous
> with these short-sleeved underdresses had narrow sleeves, not wide
> ones
> that would show off a fancy undersleeve.
>
> That got me wondering whether the short-sleeved underdresses were
> developed specifically to be worn under the (relatively new)
> narrow-sleeved overdresses -- maybe to reduce warmth and bulk on the
> arm.

Diana here.....

While I normally know more about Italian than anything, I found this
style to be particularly interesting and so I did some searching and
here is what I found:

This Flemish style of chemise, short-sleeved overdress, then pinned-on
sleeve is shown in a number of paintings--just as is.  I have not
encountered a style of overdress where these sleeves show through.  That
doesn't mean they didn't do it, but I think the typical style of this
gown was just as you see in that picture of the Magdalen.

I have a photocopy that I got from a library book which unfortunately
has no particular painter credited but which does show three ladies
maids in various states of this dress.  One is reaching into some wash
water and is wearing a white chemise with sleeves that end between her
elbow and wrist.  Her overdress is a mottled yellow and brown (time-worn
paint maybe?) and on her right arm she is wearing one oversleeve in
blue.  The lady next to her has a rose-colored overgown which is lined
in gray and the skirt guarding is also gray.  She has an underskirt of
green and a slightly different green for her oversleeves which are both
being worn.  The third lady is wearing what appears to be an overdress
of green which is lined in white where the neckline is high and
everything matches.  Her dress is flipped up and she is wearing a white
dress underneath which has a band of grey at the bottom which appears to
be about halfway up her lower leg.

I hope that wasn't too confusing.  I believe that the purpose to this
style is that the decorative oversleeves could be of a very expensive
fabric to show off some pretty stuff because you wouldn't have to buy
much of it.  Also you would only wear them for fancy occasions or when
you weren't going to get them dirty.

Also take a look at this painting:

http://cgfa.kelloggcreek.com/weyden/p-weyden7.htm

Check out the lady on the far right and you will see her wearing the
same thing again.  You can also see that her dress is lined in a
different colored fabric because it is flipped up.  Also note the
obvious seam lines in the bodice and the seam line indicating a separate
skirt (i.e. not continuous princess line like a cotehardie).

HTH,

Diana :~>


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
"There are too many mediocre things in life to deal with.....Love
shouldn't be one
 of them."
--Ione Skye in "Dream for an Insomniac"


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  1 23:08:00 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Pre-Revolution "New Amsterdam" Costume
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 00:19:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Using some of that cotton velvet so inexpensive now at
Walmart, this jacket is very long lived Dutch woman's
garment. Velvet on the outside, fur-lined on the inside.
With little variation, I have seen this in 1410 sculpture,
this in 1600's, and later into the late 18th Century.  I saw
a library book once which talked about the multi-ethnicity
of America before the Revolution (some things never change!)
and the costume depicted for the New York area looked like
this.  I think it was no accident that the Dutch seafaring
merchant traders created a great business setting like New
York:
http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/m/p-metsu2.htm.
http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/m/p-mierisi1.htm
Both images are Dutch around 1660, early, but will give you
the general idea.  I love the low armscye and the gathers on
the shoulder/sleeve seam in the second image, serving woman
at the rear.  For a lower class middle class woman, narrower
fur trim and a woolen skirt would be appropriate.  This is
an poor woman's costume closer to 1700, I believe:
http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/v/p-vrel4.htm
and here a woman similar station in life in better detail:
 http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/vermeer/p-vermeer8.htm.
The excellent resources in universities and museums in your
own area should reveal a greater degree of accuracy
regarding costume in New Amsterdam.  Sorry I wasn't able to
find anything closer in time period.


Hope H. Dunlap



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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>Wool velvet is called plush, and is available thru teddy bear making supply
>houses.  It's seriously expensive.

Cool! I got mine years ago at an apholstery shop in Santa Ana, CA. It was
made for auto apholstery I think. It is VERY thick and has 30% cashmere and
less than 1% of some synthetic (which is applied as a backing), but doesn't
look very teddybearish, so perhaps its a bit different. It makes GREAT
armor though... The nap is so full that I had to handsew all the banding
because it would just slip one way or the other. I called all over Orange
County CA to find it. It was about $32 at the time (12 yrs ago or so) but I
lucked out and found part of it as a 75% off remnant. I made my husband an
SCA fighting waffenrock and he still wears it. Overall it still looks ok,
but the velveteen banding has worn its nap away in places. The wool that
goes under his breastplate has been patched, but the skirt itself still
looks pretty good.

Julie Adams



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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Pre-Revolution costume
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Beth wrote:
> 
> HELP!!
> My local historical society is embarking on a project to costume the
> instructors who teach in their school programs.

If you are doing lower class then the easiest style to go for is the
bedgown which was worn throughout the 18thc but particularly in the
1740's and 50's. this is a  T-shape jacket about hip length which wraps
over and can fit universally there is a pattern for one in the cut of
women's clothes in the original tailors pattern section. I run a 1740's
-60's group in england and we have successfully made several of these
for slop chest so that new members can have something to wear at their
first event.
You should also  have pocket hoops which are more practical than full if
you are portraying working women.
 Any of the undress jackets in the relevant Janet Arnold book are
suitable but I wouldn't advise a full saque as these were only really
worn for dress and by higher ranking women at this date it being a
french fashion. There are some very nice mantua patterns in the COWC
which work well.
 Aim to use linen rather than cotton although cotton was used more in
the Americas than England and patterns can be stripes checks ginghams
and florals.
Caps can be various styles. the favourite of working women of the period
is the round eared cap, but also smaller ones with lappets are okay.    
Hope this helps

Dawn


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Date: Sat, 02 Oct 1999 11:29:25 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Chris and Trish Makowski wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Chris and Trish Makowski" <roecourt@mindspring.com>
>As I do alot of late 17th- early 19th c clothing I use a great deal of Indian silks as they are accurate for the period having been brought over to England via the East India Company.
 I am lucky enouch to live near an Indian community and so have access
to a many different sorts, wieghts etc. Many of the  silks are still
hand woven and vegetable dyed and so usually only about 8-10m are
available of a particular design which is perfect for exclusive clothing
(if not a sari). Costs over here are between £10-£20 for these which
isn't bad at all. last year there was a preponderance of 18thc style
designs which I matched to some original textiles in the V&A and they
were spookily similar, at the moment there are some smaller lozenge/
medallion weaves which are very Italian Renaissance and I am having a
hard job not to buy.
 I would only use an actual sari for late 1790's- 1810 as there are some
examples of dresses being made this way but otherwise if the weight was
okay I would cut the fabric up and use it just as 6 yards of beautiful
cloth for other periods.

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  2 07:06:56 1999
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Date: Sat, 02 Oct 1999 11:33:39 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Patterns etc
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Margaret Bolger wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
> 
> Apologies if you are already aware of this, but I thought it might be of
> interest!
> 
> At my 'Antique Costume & Textiles Fair' last week, Lindy Pickard and Dave
> Rushworth were selling a whole load of patterns and handbooks - I think
> they have only recently started their business.
> 
> Their 45 patterns cover a number of periods : Viking, Medieval, 16thC,
> English Civil War, 18thC, 19thC  -  and range from trousers, tunics,
> doublets, hose, breeches, frock coats etc  in a wide range of sizes.
> 
> Their handbooks include : Medieval Women, medieval men, How to make
> Medieval Shoes, 17thC Women, 1798 French Revolutionary Uniform, 1812-15
> French Infantry Uniform.
> They also sell natural fibre textiles, buttons etc.
> 
> Their business is called Petty Chapman and is based in Yorkshire UK.  Tele:
> +44 (0) 1484.512968
> 
> If anyone wants more information and their address, please get in touch
> with me.  I also have a full list of the available patterns and handbooks.
> 
> (I have no connection with them - just passing information along!)
> 
> Margaret
> antique costume & textiles
> http://www.artizania.co.uk
Lindy and Dave have been re-enactors in England for a great many years
and are friends of mine they have done a great many periods between them
and also have a business selling cloth, patterns, buttons etc to
re-enactors over here.
the patterns aren't too bad although as with all patterns they are
generic and will not necessarily fit without altering to your own shape

dawn


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Date: Sat, 02 Oct 1999 08:30:50 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Magdalen sleeves
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Diana H wrote many interesting things, and one for which I have a
different interpreation:

> http://cgfa.kelloggcreek.com/weyden/p-weyden7.htm
> 
> Check out the lady on the far right and you will see her wearing the
> same thing again.  You can also see that her dress is lined in a
> different colored fabric because it is flipped up.

I don't think that is her skirt; I think it is another piece of cloth,
perhaps a mantle, that is falling from around her shoulders and is
caught up on her skirt.  The 'crucifiction inside a church' painting has
another of these gathered mantles on the skirt.

You can see what I think is the edge of the mantle in the folds between
her knees -- which means that on her left knee we are seeing one side of
it, and after the edge, we're seeing the turned-back edge of the fabric,
and they are the same color.

cv
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Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 10:15:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Seeking a Folkwear pattern...
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


Somewhere, buried in my things, I thought I had a Folkwear pattern for the
Missouri Riverboatman's Shirt. The design is based on the shirt worn by
the riverboatmen in George Caleb Bingham's paintings. I have never used
the pattern (though I vaguely remember that I once talked to the designer
at the Missouri Historical Society, about 20 years ago).

I thought I might want to make one up for a friend of mine, and now I
can't find it. Maybe I never bought it after all, who knows. I did call
Lark Books, which is now publishing the Folkwear line, and they do have it
-- for $14.95 plus $3.95 shipping. That feels a little pricey for a whim
right now, so I'm not eager to buy it, yet.

If anyone on this list has an old copy of the pattern they would be
willing to part with at a reduced rate, I'd be interested. Email off-list
please.

--Robin

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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gardecorps (was Houppelande)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 17:23:06 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Hi,

Claire wrote:
> Perhaps they just evolved as a kind of status symbol (after all, they
> do seem to have been worn largely by professional men). Looking at
> manuscript pictures the sleeves of gardecorps vary wildly in length and
> width. I wonder what a survey of gardecorps sleeve sizes correlated with
> manuscript dates would reveal ie are the shorter skinnier ones all in
> the early part of the 13th century? 

There appears during the 13th c a fairly narrow, slender surcotte with a
hood and short sleeves to about mid forearm, not too wide at the cuff,
which sleeves are also portrayed as hanging loose from the shoulder. In
other words: there must be a slit in this sleeve, at about the same place
as in a gardecorps sleeve. You see this surcotte also with the arms in the
sleeves, but then the slit is not visible. The space in which you have to
manoeuvre your arms through the slit looks to me to be pretty tight, but
one day I'll have to try this out.

The point is: this may be the forerunner of the gardecorps, were it not for
the fact that they seem to be worn during the same period. I haven't as yet
found a similar garment before ca 1230, though. You may ask yourself in the
mean time: why would they want to have the arms free from these relatively
short sleeves: they don't interfere with work...

Funny guys, these medieval people...

Henk


>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
> Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
> and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
> friendly substance.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> 
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From: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910012358.TAA09810@hurontario.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "sari silk"
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 11:36:23 -0400
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-Poster: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>

Vandy said..

> individual elements worked well, and the workmanship seemed to be
exemplary. One of the fabrics used in
> the skirts had a distinctly Jacobean flavour to it.It was a very
heavy cream silk with a brocaded pattern,
> and the sleeves were another heavy silk in red with a small all-over
pattern in gold.
>  A bit of overkill, perhaps, but certainly some appealing fabrics!

and then Susan said...

>I think I know the outfit Vandy describes, and the silks are indeed
>stunning, and have earned the lady who made the outfit a jealous
glance or
>twenty.

(delurking abruptly) Geee...wouldn't I love it if this thread is
actually talking about *my* dress, which I showed at an A&S comp last
Saturday in Cookstown.

Even if it ain't, I'll talk about it anyhow.

Italian Renaissance dresses, c.1470. Underdress in crimson silk, knife
pleats, with the bodice made from the heavily brocaded endpieces of
the original sari, one side red, one side green, smooth as a glove.
Overdress as described, cartridge pleated, heavy cream silk with a
lovely flower pattern in silver and gold that's actually pretty
period, long hanging sleeves in red with small repeating gold bars.
The bodice of the overdress is a really richly brocaded red piece from
the end of the white sari. The white is bordered top and bottom with
red brocaded gold and silver. Completely handsewn with tiny wee
stitches that owe a lot to the drone of David Usher (of Moist fame).

And I am so happy about it that I almost want to have it insured.

Eve Harris

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Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 07:51:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk/lottery
In-Reply-To: <37F509B6.C2659832@thibault.org>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> 
> Ok, Margo and I will form the nucleus of the new Britex Strike Team --
> any other takers?

Sure!  I've always wanted to visit the place.  "Textile Liberation Army"
has a nice ring to it.

:)

Drea
> 
> Meanwhile, for those with more lawful inclinations, I did see at Calico
> Corners that they are selling 100% silk brocades, single colors, in
> plausibly late medieval or early renaissance patterns.  They are in the
> swatches to order section, and are about $80/yard.  (No, their website
> does not list or show fabrics, alas.)
> 
> cv
> --
> For those going to Collegium in Cynagua next week, I'll be visiting and
> doing a hat class.
> 

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Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 19:54:35 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <19991001184510.NPCM14188.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
, "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com> writes
>
>-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
>It is not a question of being *satisfied*.  there are any number of silks
>that can be used for sarees: mulberry, tussah, mugha as well as different
>weights and weaves.
>However it is nice to know what you are talking about.
>~!~ R.L.Shep
>http://www.rlshep.com
>
>----------
If you get actual silk in Indian cloth shops, you are very lucky. All
those I've been into in the UK have a discreet sign near the door "All
fabrics 100% polyester"  They look so gorgeous, and it's so
disappointing.
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 15:16:46 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Larger Ruffs- Elizabethan
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Gentle List

Okay, since I don't know what they're actually called, I'm going to call them 
"fairywing" ruffs.  Can anyone suggest a book with step by step instructions 
on all manner of Elizabethan Ruffs with specific instructions on how one 
creates and supports those wonderful (they look wired) sheer ruffs that 
surround the back of the head and frame the face?

I'd love to make a dress with such a ruff, but am unclear on how to best 
support it.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"O, what a world of vile ill-favored faults  looks handsome in three hundred 
pounds a year!..."
The Merry Wives of Windsor, III, iv - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Larger Ruffs- Elizabethan
Date: Sun, 03 Oct 1999 19:33:32 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Sun, 3 Oct 1999 15:16:46 EDT, the following was written in this
electric book by MzScahlett@aol.com:

>ns 
>on all manner of Elizabethan Ruffs with specific instructions on how one 
>creates and supports those wonderful (they look wired) sheer ruffs that 
>surround the back of the head and frame the face?
>
>I'd love to make a dress with such a ruff, but am unclear on how to best 
>support it.

Period Costume For Stage and Screen
Patterns for Women's Dress 1500 - 1800
Jean Hunnisett
ISBN 0-88734-610-3 (on my copy, which is almost 8 years old)

Since I'm unclear on which exactly you mean, I'll direct you to two:

For the open-in-front-to-frame-the-cleavage type of sheer wired
collar: Page 83, in the instructions for reproducing the Ditchley
portrait of QE1. Clear illustrations for the wire frame and how it is
attached to the bodice are given.

For the wired-into-place-ruff:
PP84-89, the chapter on making Ruffs. Particulary the illustration and
text on page 84, describing open ruffs and the supportasse. Pages
85-89 cover the construction and maintenance of  various types of
ruffs, both simple theatrical and more likely (but still theatrical)
reconstructions.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
Organization: Well, I wouldn't call it organized......
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References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.990930210233.3378H-100000@shell.nightowl.net> <37F57B4D.11E65C53@inreach.com> <37F5FACF.E119CDD7@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>

Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
> Diana H wrote many interesting things, and one for which I have a
> different interpreation:
>
> > http://cgfa.kelloggcreek.com/weyden/p-weyden7.htm
> >
> > Check out the lady on the far right and you will see her wearing the
>
> > same thing again.  You can also see that her dress is lined in a
> > different colored fabric because it is flipped up.
>
> I don't think that is her skirt; I think it is another piece of cloth,
>
> perhaps a mantle, that is falling from around her shoulders and is
> caught up on her skirt.  The 'crucifiction inside a church' painting
> has
> another of these gathered mantles on the skirt.
>
> You can see what I think is the edge of the mantle in the folds
> between
> her knees -- which means that on her left knee we are seeing one side
> of
> it, and after the edge, we're seeing the turned-back edge of the
> fabric,
> and they are the same color.
>

  Cynthia & List,

I apologize for my haste in calling the contrasting fabric in this
picture the lining of the skirt.  Upon closer examination Cynthia is
correct and the different colored fabric is indeed some type of mantle
or other over-garment.  In the picture I referenced about the three
ladies maids, however, it clearly shows that the skirts were pulled up
and a contrasting skirt lining is present.

Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

Diana :~>

--

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
"There are too many mediocre things in life to deal with.....Love
shouldn't be one
 of them."
--Ione Skye in "Dream for an Insomniac"


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Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 15:43:29 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Larger Ruffs- Elizabethan
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/3/1999 12:37:49 Pacific Daylight Time, 
rio@austin.rr.com writes:

<< Period Costume For Stage and Screen
 Patterns for Women's Dress 1500 - 1800
 Jean Hunnisett
 ISBN 0-88734-610-3 (on my copy, which is almost 8 years old)
  >>

Thanks so much for pointing me in the right direction. Heck, I've even got 
the book, I don't know why I didn't think to check my library first!  I think 
with all the talk of ruffs on the list awhile back, I was thinking of them 
more like corsets, with a separate resource being the only way to go.

Okay, but now that you made it so easy to find, I've got to get started that 
much sooner!

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
As You Like It; III, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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Date: Sun, 03 Oct 1999 17:30:28 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

The Indians often like polyester because it is *wash and wear*.    The first
time I went to stay with a family in India I was told to bring polyester
sarees from the US.  I did and felt awful about it.  They liked them for
everyday sarees.  But I finally bought my hostess a very fine silk saree
there - which cost me about US$100 and she treasures it to this day.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
>Date: Sun, Oct 3, 1999, 11:54 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
>In message <19991001184510.NPCM14188.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
>, "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com> writes
>>
>>-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>>
>>It is not a question of being *satisfied*.  there are any number of silks
>>that can be used for sarees: mulberry, tussah, mugha as well as different
>>weights and weaves.
>>However it is nice to know what you are talking about.
>>~!~ R.L.Shep
>>http://www.rlshep.com
>>
>>----------
>If you get actual silk in Indian cloth shops, you are very lucky. All
>those I've been into in the UK have a discreet sign near the door "All
>fabrics 100% polyester"  They look so gorgeous, and it's so
>disappointing.
>-- 
>Jean Waddie


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Is there a problem with the list?  After a weekend away, I have many fewer
messages than I would normally expect, and a few of them seem to be
responses to posts I haven't seen.

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct  3 23:17:05 1999
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From: "Arianne de Dragonnid  mka Grace Payne" <arianne@blackroot.org>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 99 00:19:08 
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-Poster: "Arianne de Dragonnid  mka Grace Payne" <arianne@blackroot.org>

On Wed, 22 Sep 1999 , Elysant asked several questions concerning the 14th century style of cotehardie, as 
worn in France.

My apologies if this was answered already, but your last question struck a nerve:

>And lastly, I am assuming that a loose sleeveless surcote of a more ornate or 
>heavier but complimentary fabric, perhaps trimmed with fur or trim would be 
>worn over the dress (below knee length and bell shaped).  Am I correct? 

It sounds like you are describing a type of surcote I have heard described as a "Spanish Surcote".  I have no 
idea if it was actually worn in period, as I haven't study Spanish styles and haven't run across it elsewhere, 
but my personal opinion is that it is a particularly unattractive style.  The French surcotes I've seen pictures of 
were all floor length or longer (as were the cotehardies), mostly puddle-length.  The precise cut of the top 
varied, getting narrower as time went on, and the skirts were all very full.  The ones that don't appear to have 
a train are nearly all shown at the wrong angle for a train to be visible anyway.  The fourteenth century, and 
the fifteenth as well, was an era in which people wanted to use as much costly fabric as possible in their 
gowns, to show off how rich they were.  Your ideas for fabric and trimmings sound appropriate, and lovely.

Regarding your other two questions:

>Firstly, how and where is the dress fastened?   

I've heard arguments for closing the cotehardie under the arms, down the front, and down the back.  Lacing 
is possible and acceptable for all of these, and buttoning is suitable for closing down the front.  I don't like side 
lacing and can't think of any pictures where it looked like the gown laced there.  I've not seen any sign in the 
pictures that gowns were closed up the front, but that could be simply artistic license.  I close mine up the 
back with lacing, through holes set an inch apart from my waist or derriere up.  I line and face the fabric, but 
don't find I need any boning.

>Secondly, what kind of headgear would be worn with the gown if one is 
>attempting to depict a 14th century French Lady? 

A veil, certainly, topped with a circlet if appropriate or with a turret ( in SCA lingo, a pillbox).  Gorgets don't 
seem to have been very popular, but the tight wimple seems to have been, at least with the older crowd.  This 
is the one that actually appears to have been fitted and must have buttoned or laced closed somehow, 
assumably down the back.  From the artwork I would have to say that it seems to have been very popular to 
wear one's hair so it showed -- generally in braids.  Braids were rolled in buns, looped beside the face, or 
stuffed into metal cages to hang beside the lady's face.  The era of "silly hats" had not yet come, a plus for 
those of us who can fit a cotehardie perfectly but grow faint at the thought of making one of THOSE 
creations!


Yours in the Dream,
	Arianne de Dragonnid

Shire of Castlemere, Kingdom of Trimaris

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

"The founder of my noble line was wont to see Dragons.  His Lady rode out from the forest 
in a gown of samite and was as young on the day he died as on their wedding day."

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 01:07:09 1999
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Someone mentioned compiling a medieval clothing glossary.  I stumbled
across one at http://www.trail.com/~ri/garb.htm.  I just did a quick
glance (I was looking for something else) so I don't how good the page
is.

--Charlene

--
If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried
before.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 10:13:18 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: missing messages
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 17:26:00 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

Margo wrote:
> Is there a problem with the list?  After a weekend away, I have many
fewer
> messages than I would normally expect, and a few of them seem to be
> responses to posts I haven't seen.

Me too: yesterday 5 mails, now 10, which is way below average...

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 10:21:57 1999
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: missing messages
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> Me too: yesterday 5 mails, now 10, which is way
> below average...

See, now this is the ONLY message I have received
today... odd

Sarah

> 
> Henk
> 
> 


=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 10:58:45 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Regency Trims
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 12:10:34 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BF0E61.767BBAA0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Cheers everyone!

I'm looking for sources for trim that would be appropriate on an =
1810-ish evening gown.  Im thinking of using a *lot* of small rosettes, =
I'm not up to making them myself and the type you generally find in the =
notions departments just seem a bit too "commercial-looking".

Thanks for any and all info!
~*~Kerrie~*~



------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BF0E61.767BBAA0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3DArial size=3D2><EM>Cheers=20
everyone!</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3DArial size=3D2><EM>I'm looking for =
sources for trim=20
that would be appropriate on an 1810-ish evening gown.&nbsp; Im thinking =
of=20
using a *lot* of small rosettes, I'm not up to making them myself and =
the type=20
you generally find in the notions departments just seem a bit too=20
"commercial-looking".</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3DArial size=3D2><EM>Thanks for any and =
all=20
info!</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3DArial =
size=3D2><EM>~*~Kerrie~*~</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BF0E61.767BBAA0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 11:19:14 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 11:41:43 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval clothing glossary
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>>
>Someone mentioned compiling a medieval clothing glossary.  I stumbled
>across one at http://www.trail.com/~ri/garb.htm.  I just did a quick
>glance (I was looking for something else) so I don't how good the page
>is.

Thank you, this is a very interesting attempt.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 14:47:28 1999
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Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 21:42:17 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: sca-garb@list.uvm.edu
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: H-COST: More (New) Tudor Images (long)
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <37F4E8CC.6005@uvm.edu>, Hope Greenberg
<hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> writes
>
>-Poster: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
>
>I've added a few more images to the Tudor dress page. This time the
>images are taken from monumental brasses, a medium which, despite its
>obvious limitations, often offers some interesting details. Check it out
>at:
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor
>
>- Hope

Hope, I haven't looked at this page before. Some nice early Tudor stuff
there, well done for picking it all out and putting it up. 

The Holbein "English Burgher's Wife" (the lady with the flyaway hat and
bunched up skirts) is also in Ashelford's Visual History - 16th Century.
I don't know if it's any clearer than in Lofts - the white strap appears
to be pinned down, at the side of the bust, and certainly doesn't
connect with the skirt hanger/girdle, which looks as if it disappears
around her waist, but no more clues than that.

The little girl in the Holbein sketch of a woman and her children -
surely these are the same pleats as in "the famous back views", and they
give the fullness to the skirt.  I think, from looking at the front view
of the "back views" (are you following?) and at the front two ladies of
Thomas More's family, Elizabeth Dauncey and Margaret Roper, the way
their skirts hang and move, I think they have the same centre back pleat
construction.  I am attempting to make a copy of Elizabeth Dauncey's
dress, with this back construction and a box pleat at the front of
either hip, which will somehow cunningly allow me to get in and out.
It's been sitting in the cupboard since March when I injured my wrist,
but when I manage to finish it I will let you know how it worked.

Lady Guildford - I hadn't spotted that the sleeves were pleated, I had
seen those as quilting lines.  That's interesting.  Presumably the
pleating is basically decorative, as other people achieve the same shape
of sleeve with non-pleated brocade. 

I have a question on something you may have figured out, but I haven't
yet - how do you do that particular knot they use on girdles, that ends
up with a loop sticking up?  Margaret Roper has it, as does the middle
lady in Princess Mary's pageants.  Any ideas?

Another book you may like to look at is the illustrated edition of
Antonia Fraser's "Six Wives of Henry VIII", published 1996 by Weidenfeld
and Nicholson, ISBN 029783567X.  You may have picked them all up
elsewhere, but it has some unusual pictures of the queens when young -
"before they were famous".

Thanks again for the resource,

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 16:26:49 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Dr. Piponniere's "Se Vetir Au Moyen Age"
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 14:38:12 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


I've been happily reading "Se Vetir Au Moyen Ages" and blithly recommended
it to Marc.

I heard a rumor that Dr. Piponniere's "Se Vetir Au Moyen Ages" was finally
translated into English.  Does anyone know 1) the truth of this rumor or 2)
what the English name of the book is.  She also has another, the French name
translates as something like "Costume at the Courts of Burgundy in the 14th
& 15th c" that was written in the '70s." Has anyone seen or read it & would
care to comment?

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 16:46:19 1999
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From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@mackie.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dr. Piponniere's "Se Vetir Au Moyen Age"
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Yes, it's been translated.  I am pretty sure that "Dress in the Middle Ages" is the title of the translation.  If you search the 
book sellers by the author's last name, it should come up.

I have a copy, but haven't dug into it yet, so can't make a 
recommendation.

Regards,

Colleen McDonald Hinrichs
Seattle, WA

>>> "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com> 10/04 2:38 PM >>>

-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


I've been happily reading "Se Vetir Au Moyen Ages" and blithly recommended
it to Marc.

I heard a rumor that Dr. Piponniere's "Se Vetir Au Moyen Ages" was finally
translated into English.  Does anyone know 1) the truth of this rumor or 2)
what the English name of the book is.  She also has another, the French name
translates as something like "Costume at the Courts of Burgundy in the 14th
& 15th c" that was written in the '70s." Has anyone seen or read it & would
care to comment?

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com 
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com 
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 17:02:05 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dr. Piponniere's "Se Vetir Au Moyen Age"
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>I've been happily reading "Se Vetir Au Moyen Ages" and blithly recommended
>it to Marc.
>
>I heard a rumor that Dr. Piponniere's "Se Vetir Au Moyen Ages" was finally
>translated into English.  Does anyone know 1) the truth of this rumor or 2)
>what the English name of the book is.  She also has another, the French
name
>translates as something like "Costume at the Courts of Burgundy in the 14th
>& 15th c" that was written in the '70s." Has anyone seen or read it & would
>care to comment?


Would this be "Dress in the Middle Ages"?  If so, yes, it has been
translated, and has been available for a couple of years now.  The author's
last name is definitely Piponniere.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 17:02:34 1999
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>


Since I subbed to this list I have added a lot of great h-costume links to my bookmarks (many thanks to you all!) To
clean up my bookmarks I posted a great many of them onto a page of my website. If you would like to look through them
please go to http://www.vci.net/~schuck . If there are any you think I should add to that list, please send your
recommendations to me privately. Thanks!
jb
schuck@vci.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 17:34:28 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Catherine of Aragon
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 15:55:46 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Does anyone have any idea what the white trim? is on her shoulders?  It =
almost looks like her corset shows through her armhole but after closer =
inspection the paler fabric appears to be sewn on top. Since it is =
undecorated and looks to be a lesser cost weave, I am very confused as =
to what it's purpose is.=20
Michelle

http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cathyold1.jpg

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anyone have any idea what the =
white trim?=20
is on her shoulders?&nbsp; It almost looks like her corset shows through =
her=20
armhole but after closer inspection the paler fabric appears to be sewn =
on top.=20
Since it is undecorated and looks to be a lesser cost weave, I am very =
confused=20
as to what it's purpose is. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT =
size=3D2>Michelle</FONT></DIV><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cathyold1.jpg">http://www.uvm.e=
du/~hag/sca/tudor/cathyold1.jpg</A></BODY></HTML>

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[InternetShortcut]
URL=http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/cathyold1.jpg
Modified=00685C1ABB0EBF0167

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 17:37:00 1999
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Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 18:51:27 EDT
Subject: H-COST: recycling, and a couple of questions
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Several topics under one roof here.

First, best "thrift shop" purchase(s): A fuchsia wool jacket, a taupe skirt 
with fuchsia print, fuchsia shoes (in my size), and a silk blouse -- a whole 
business ensemble (scattered throughout the shop) for about $50 -- it was 
pretty "upscale." 

Yesterday, at a street fair in Baltimore, I picked up some great costume 
jewelry and a wonderous dress -- 1920s antique, I think. Completely covered 
with blue/silver/gold bugle beads in an Art Deco design (background is blue). 
Long sleeves, scoop neck, no fastenings. Absolutely awesome -- I spotted it 
across the street and RAN. It was $20. No, it doesn't fit me (yet) but it may 
be a Christmas present for a friend, unless I decide to lose enough weight to 
fit into it. It requires NO HIPS. My friend who was with me suggested that I 
fasten it to the refrigerator to inspire me.

Now, a couple of questions for the pros out there.

1) What iron would you recommend for costuming? I need something that will 
handle heavy-duty fabrics, velvets, as well as delicate sheers, do steaming, 
and is heavy enough to press down damasks.  Any ideas?

2) I am also in the market for a new sewing machine. I don't need much 
quilting ability or 10 different buttonholes, but once again, something 
versatile. The one I looked at seriously was a Viking (at about $1800), but I 
really didn't need all the features. I still drooled all over it.  
Recommendations?

Thanks.
Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 17:49:59 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 18:05:16 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: a couple of questions
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

At 06:51 PM 10/04/1999 -0400, you wrote:

>Now, a couple of questions for the pros out there.
>
>1) What iron would you recommend for costuming? I need something that will
>handle heavy-duty fabrics, velvets, as well as delicate sheers, do steaming,
>and is heavy enough to press down damasks.  Any ideas?


IRON--I have the EuroPro system and it works very well on all those items. 
Find one on sale.


>2) I am also in the market for a new sewing machine. I don't need much
>quilting ability or 10 different buttonholes, but once again, something
>versatile. The one I looked at seriously was a Viking (at about $1800), but I
>really didn't need all the features. I still drooled all over it.
>Recommendations?

SEWING MACHINE
Buy a Bernina, even if it's used, it's better than anything else out there.



>Thanks.
>Kathleen Norvell

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 18:01:42 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/4/1999 3:52:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Appin1@aol.com 
writes:

<<  I am also in the market for a new sewing machine. I don't need much 
 quilting ability or 10 different buttonholes, but once again, something 
 versatile. The one I looked at seriously was a Viking (at about $1800), but 
I 
 really didn't need all the features. I still drooled all over it.  
 Recommendations?
  >>

Kathleen,

I'd recommend a Pfaff. I have a new machine that is a basic electronic (I 
wanted to stay away, but on modern machines, it's not an option).  I prefer 
Pfaff due to the "walking foot" which is standard on their machines (if a 
model doesn't have one, don't buy it).  The walking foot was originated by 
Pfaff, and will make sewing on velvets or plaids a breeze. 

Other good features are the button hole foot and program, which make 
buttonholes a snap; the needle down rest position (which toggles the needle 
into the fabric for turning corners) easy self threader; good bobbin 
winding...  My sister in law also kindly lent me her Pfaff 1475, which is the 
computerized embroidery line (lower end) and it's been fun. I don't need all 
the bells and whistles, but having them, have found uses for many.

I've been sewing on Pfaff for 25 years, and would never change, although 
Berninas are also an excellent buy.  Sit down and make a list of what 
features you absolutely have to have. Then make a list of good manufacturers 
who make machines with those features. Then haggle. A lot. Enjoy~

angela+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Be not afraid of greatness; some are born great,
some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust 
upon them."
Twelfth-Night, II, v - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:   http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 18:22:36 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

The walking foot was originated by 
>Pfaff, and will make sewing on velvets or plaids a breeze. 
>

This is a technical quibble, BUT:  Pfaff originated the *built in* walking
foot, which they call the "dual feed" system.  Walking feet as attachments
have been around for ages, and are available for most machines.  

As for an iron,  I'd say don't fall for Rowenta's hype.  Their ability to
deliver a shot of steam is okay, not great, but they are made of a very
brittle plastic.  If you ever knock it off the ironing board, you can either
kiss $150 goodbye, or pay almost that to get it repaired.  

I'm using a $35 Norelco until I can afford a Sussman gravity feed model.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 18:25:11 1999
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/4/1999 4:38:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< This is a technical quibble, BUT:  Pfaff originated the *built in* walking
 foot, which they call the "dual feed" system.   >>
Yeah, what Margo said!  That's what I meant. Sewing machines are such a 
personal preference kinda thing.  I love mine, but can't say there arent' 
other brands one could fall just as in love with...

angela
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 18:36:45 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 18:48:57 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I can't afford a Pfaff (don't I wish!  I know a Laurel who *finally*
bought a new one after using her old one for a good 20 years!!) so I
bought a White Jeans Machine through an older man who sells them through
the classifieds.  He offers three years of free maintenance (first at
your home, after at his but I live on his route so I got two years at my
house!) and I was able to pay $40 down & $20 a month with a trade in on
my old machine which was dead, dead, dead.  I agree that you need to
make a list of the options *you* want/need... for example, I simply MUST
have a free arm... end of story! <grin>  I also prefer to have a triple
lock stitch but can live without an automatic buttonhole option (after
all, my dh is a master buttonholer! <wink>).  I also have to have
something that will hold up to being used 15 hours a day for weeks at a
stretch.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 18:41:15 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 19:55:45 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

I haven't had any structural problems when I drop my Rowenta, but I find
that it doesn't get as hot as I want it to, and the safety features are
a real annoyance.

--
In 1977, when Elvis died, there were 48 professional Elvis
impersonators.  In 1996, there were 7,328.  If this rate of growth does
not change, in 2012, one person in four on the face of the Earth will be
an Elvis impersonator!  -- ZPG newsletter
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 19:02:23 1999
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

You might want to consider artificial flowers.  Check craft stores.  
Artificial flowers were being made professionally in France during the 
period.  You won't get rosettes, but you might also check out 
drapery/upholstery trims.  I've found some very nice ones.  
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 19:09:25 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 06:48 PM 10/04/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>I can't afford a Pfaff (don't I wish!  I know a Laurel who *finally*
>bought a new one after using her old one for a good 20 years!!) so I
>bought a White Jeans Machine

Yes!  If all you need is a reasonable variety of utility stitches and rock
solid dependability, the White Jeans Machine is IT!  I wish I'd bought it
instead of getting talked into the Viking.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 20:26:07 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: "ÃÖº¸À±" <kang0823@hanmail.net>, "costume list" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: How can i post massage?
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 18:50:38 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Choibo-yun,
  Welcome to the list. To post to the list you will need to type in
h-costume@indra.com and it will get to all of us.
  Where are you from?
Michelle

-----Original Message-----
From: ÃÖº¸À± <kang0823@hanmail.net>
To: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
Date: Monday, October 04, 1999 5:47 PM
Subject: How can i post massage?


>Hellow?
>my name is choibo-yun... Nice meet you..
>I subscribe H-costume yesterday...
>I want to post massage in H-costume but I don't know how to do...
>Please.. the way to post massage...
>Bye...
>==================================================
>NO. 1 ¿ì¸® ÀÎÅÍ³Ý, ´ÙÀ½
>Æò»ý ¾²´Â ¹«·á E-mail ÁÖ¼Ò ÇÑ¸ÞÀÏ³Ý
>http://www.daum.net

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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 20:23:11 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I love my Rowenta.  It fell on the floor (carpeted) and the base came up on
one side.  I took the hammer (what did I have to loose) and beat it back in
place.  Still ticking!!!

The iron I miss, is a metal Sears and Roebuck that I bought at a yard sale
for 50 cents.  I came home one day to my DH's plea's for forgiveness.  He
knocked the ironing board and the S&R iron fell to the ground.  It must of
hit just right, because it came completely apart.  Hmmmm let me see, I got
the Rowenta right after that......

I have since purchased, from Clothilde, one of those nifty iron holders
that screw onto the end of the board.  With a sewing room as small as mine,
I am constantly moving the board from place to place, and the near misses
were driving me to distraction.

Currently I own a (2) old metal Necchi's and one Singer school machine.  My
mom has a Bernina that I have sewn on in the past.  I love my oldest
Necchi, and will keep it.  The others will be traded in on something new
next year.  Bernina? White? Another Necchi?  I haven't started shopping
yet.

Don't you wish that they made a basic machine that had an automatic
button-hole?  I hate the thought of having to buy all those embroidery
stitches just for that.

Kathlene

----------
> From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
> Date: Monday, October 04, 1999 5:55 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> 
> I haven't had any structural problems when I drop my Rowenta, but I find
> that it doesn't get as hot as I want it to, and the safety features are
> a real annoyance.
> 
> --
> In 1977, when Elvis died, there were 48 professional Elvis
> impersonators.  In 1996, there were 7,328.  If this rate of growth does
> not change, in 2012, one person in four on the face of the Earth will be
> an Elvis impersonator!  -- ZPG newsletter
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 21:11:21 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 19:27:11 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 10/4/1999 3:52:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Appin1@aol.com
> writes:
> 
> <<  I am also in the market for a new sewing machine. I don't need much
>  quilting ability or 10 different buttonholes, but once again, something
>  versatile. The one I looked at seriously was a Viking (at about $1800), but
> I
>  really didn't need all the features. I still drooled all over it.
>  Recommendations?
>   >>
> 
> Kathleen,
> 
> I'd recommend a Pfaff. 

I'd be leery myself - Pfaff recently declared bankruptcy and while that
doesn't spell their death knell yet, it's not a good sign.  I vote for
New Home/Janome.  But talk about your bells and whistles!

Irons:  I have a Rowenta and haven't had any problems with it even after
dropping it several times.  Much better than the Black and Decker I used
to own, but it *was* old.  Look around and find features you want.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 21:25:26 1999
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From: Wendy Colbert <WendyC@vivid.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
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-Poster: Wendy Colbert <WendyC@vivid.net>

>-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

>I'd be leery myself - Pfaff recently declared bankruptcy and while that
>doesn't spell their death knell yet, it's not a good sign.  I vote for
>New Home/Janome.  But talk about your bells and whistles!

My preference is Elna.  I really like my Elna Diva that I bought used.

>Irons:  I have a Rowenta and haven't had any problems with it even after
>dropping it several times.  Much better than the Black and Decker I used
>to own, but it *was* old.  Look around and find features you want.
>

I like my Rowenta, I put it on my wish list and I got it as a birthday
present from my husband- my old iron was slowly falling to bits- literally.

Wendy


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 21:39:53 1999
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Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 22:53:54 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: periods you hate
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I agree with Albert Cat as usual -- when I see a period done right, with the 
right fabrics and cut and trims and accessories (and of course, 
underpinnings), I like just about everything. I love that feeling I get when 
I see something done right for the first time and think, "So THAT was the 
idea." Examples of such things: powdered wigs, 1830s woman's sleeves, 
panniers, bustles. Periods I have yet to see that with: anything ancient 
Greek or Roman. The charms of those elude me, although I'm sure there were 
some.

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 22:22:49 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 20:35:17 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

> <<  I am also in the market for a new sewing machine. I don't need much
>  quilting ability or 10 different buttonholes, but once again, something
>  versatile. The one I looked at seriously was a Viking (at about $1800), but

I know I'm not the only cheap, er poor person on the list
but I can't imagine paying $1000 or more for a sewing machine!
These can't be the same people who won't pay more than $.50
a yd for fabric (as someone wrote recently on the Men's list)
:->  Anything costs that much, I'd better be able to drive it!

What on earth do these things *do* to justify the price?
Mop the floor and change the baby!? No seriously, what
special things do they do?

(My "new" machine is 14 or 15 years old. Got it at Penney's
because it was solid metal and I could make payments. $200.
I needed a zig-zag to mend the kids clothes and my old
machine was only straight stitch. I still haven't used
all the feet/stitches on it.
	The old machine is about 50, only does straight
stitch, back and forth, has a zillion attachments, most
of which I still haven't figured out. I've used both
of them a lot and they just keep going!)

What am I missing?

Susan F.
(ok, I do spend ungodly amounts on good fabric)

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 22:38:50 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 20:51:20 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machines
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

           I have my old Riccar, which was my first 'on-my'-own' adult
purchase, at $200, and we've been sewing more or less happily ever
since--that was in the early-mid-60's. Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct  4 23:34:00 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 04:44:41 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Mon, 4 Oct 1999 20:23:11 -0600, the following was written in this
electric book by "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>:

>Don't you wish that they made a basic machine that had an automatic
>button-hole?  I hate the thought of having to buy all those embroidery
>stitches just for that.

My white Jeans Machine has a set of autoamtic buttonhole stitches, and
hardly any fancy embroidery (ducks?!?). Most of the stitches are your
basics plus some hem and stretch stitches. I've used it to mend
stretch leggings when a serger wasn't available.

It was $200 new. I've had this one for 4 years, no tuneup needed, and
I sew nearly constantly. I've dropped it (about 2 years ago) and I'm
hardly what one would call nice to this machine, and it *still* works
fine.

I had the earlier version of this same model for about 5 years before
that, and loaned it to my sister when her new Singer burst into flames
(not an exaggeration) and I was married to a man with several sewing
macines, so mine was 'extra'. She wouldn't give it back :>

So I got a new one. She's had to have the old one tuned once, but
that's it.

If you are looking for a good little workhorse that can take nearly
ANYTHING, and has a reasonably automatic buttonhole stitch set, this
is it.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Hoefnagel's "Fete at Bermondsey", was H-COST: 16thCen bodices
  not matching skirts...
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:19 AM 9/30/99 -0700, Margo Anderson wrote:
>
>>There are a couple of mismatched bodices and skirts on the figures 
>>in the "Fete at Bermondsey" by Joris Hoefnagel... (I think I've heard 
>>it referred to as the "Wedding at Bermondsey too?) 
>
[snip]
>
>Failing that, Teddy, do you recall a price on that poster version?  I assume
>it's not available in the US, but perhaps we could work something out?
>
>
>Margo Anderson

Make that two, if you can, Teddy. I'm tired of trying to make out details on
a little, teeny copy of the painting in my reference books. One mailing
would suffice, though, since Margo and I are regional "neighbors".

Thanks,

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 00:02:37 1999
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 01:17:12 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com


<<  I'd recommend a Pfaff. (huge snip)>>

<<  I'd be leery myself - Pfaff recently declared bankruptcy and while that 
doesn't spell their death knell yet, it's not a good sign.  I vote for  New 
Home/Janome.  But talk about your bells and whistles! >>

Carolyn,  Pfaff is currently owned by Singer, which I doubt is going under 
any time soon.   The company has filed for reorganization/protection from 
creditors, which is true of perhaps a third of the corporations in this 
country and abroad at any given time.

Aside from that, what I said was that it was a wonderful machine, and I went 
on to mention several other brands.  I also said that it's a personal 
preference.  That said, after doing almost a month's research, I spent a 
whopping $750 for my first Pfaff in 1972, and I got 25 wonderful years from 
it ---  until I treated myself to a new machine 2 years ago.  It's true they 
are expensive, as are most of the higher end machines, but most places WILL 
haggle, just like with a car.  I paid something like half of "retail" for my 
current machine.  It really depends on what you want from a sewing machine.  
I'm just very very happy with mine and would not consider owning anything 
else.

There are many many boards run by most of the major sewing machine companies, 
on which are discussed the merits and drawbacks of many of that company's 
models. Before buying any machine, I would recommend the purchaser ask a lot 
of questions, make a list of desired features, and then compare prices of 
machines which have those features currently on the market.  There is also 
the possibility of buying a used/reconditioned machine, which would 
substantially lower the price.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"I have no other but a woman's reason: 
I think him so, because I think him so."
Two Gentlemen of Verona, Act I, Sc. I - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 00:36:11 1999
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 00:56:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: old discussion: wearing corsets
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19991004220528.4917f67c@mail2.quiknet.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


A while ago, I posted to this list with a question about dealing with
scoliosis and a corset that made my back ache.  Working on the advice of
some list members, I made a new Elizabethan corset and have just completed
a 4-hour test wear without even a twinge.  I've yet to wear it for a full
day, but so far things are looking promising.  I thought I'd share my
changes with the list in case anyone else is suffering from the same or
similar difficutlies.

The old corset: 4-piece wench-style bodice, steel strapping tape boning in
front only, front lacing.  The boning was sewn into channels in the
interfacing as follows (one half): One piece on each side of the lacing
holes, two shorter pieces fanning out slightly from the bottom

the new corset: Essentially the same cut as the old one, but with a longer
center point, wood boning throughout, back lacing.  The boning is 1/8 inch
wood dowels (pretending to be bamboo from a placemat--an idea from this
list from a year or more ago), usually sewn in pairs as follows: six
going straight up and down center front, two angling out from there, gwo
more parallel with the previous two, splitting the difference between the
previous two and the five or so sewn along the side seams, and then two on
either side of the lacing holes in back.  

I had originally thought that because the problem with my back was that
the corset was forcing it straight (scoliosis has my spine curving
gently), the solution was to use a *lighter* corset.  This seems to be
false.  The boning used is less flexable than the first corset, and more
abundant, and I wore it all evening without complaint.

I hope that was somewhat comprehensible.

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 00:41:56 1999
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From: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>
To: "'H-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 15:52:22 +1000 
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-Poster: Harvey Georgia <Harveyg@acer.edu.au>


- -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

[snip]
Currently I own a (2) old metal Necchi's and one Singer school machine.  My
mom has a Bernina that I have sewn on in the past.  I love my oldest
Necchi, and will keep it.  The others will be traded in on something new
next year.  Bernina? White? Another Necchi?  I haven't started shopping
yet.

Don't you wish that they made a basic machine that had an automatic
button-hole?  I hate the thought of having to buy all those embroidery
stitches just for that.

--

They did.

The Janome 'MyStyle'. I got mine eleven years ago, and it has 16 stitches
(three of which are buttonhole). 

These days, I think they have 20 stitch machines, but my old one hasn't
missed a beat :-)

Georgia
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 03:11:19 1999
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From: "LGreene" <lgreene@halcyon.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costume resources in NYCity
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 09:43:44 +0200
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-Poster: "LGreene" <lgreene@halcyon.com>

Hi all - can anyone recommend a great costume shop or costumer in New York
City?  I am organizing a New Year's Eve trip to Paris that includes the Bal
du Roy at the Chateau of Versailles, and I have some people in New York City
who need a costumer  so they can come in period (18th century) costume.
Thanks!

Lauriann

---------------------------------------------
Gilded Age Tours: http://www.gildedagetours.com
Custom-Designed Tours of Paris and France, including Flea Market Tours,
Personal Shopping, and Wine Tasting/French Wine Country Tours.  Room still
available on our Millenium New Year's Eve at Versailles Tour of Paris!

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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Sari Silk
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> - -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

> If you get actual silk in Indian cloth shops, you are very lucky.
> All those I've been into in the UK have a discreet sign near the
> door "All fabrics 100% polyester"  They look so gorgeous, and it's
> so disappointing. 

Either that or the people in the shop have no idea of the fibre 
content of the fabrics and will happily sell them as silk or cotton if 
they *look* like silk or cotton regardless of the actual mix of fibres 
used in them.

I've had to take back fabrics before now, because they were sold to 
me as 100% cotton (I asked specifically and explained that I 
wanted to dye them) and they were mixes with synthetics so didn't 
take the dye.  Many of the staff (and owners) of these shops have 
no idea about fibres.  hey just stock wheat *looks* good and they 
know they can sell to a public who, by and large, wouldn't care 
about the fibre content themselves.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 08:44:12 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: sewing machines
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Wow, I wish I'd heard that advice about the White Jeans Machine two years ago 
when I bought my last machine. I was getting sick of having my Bernina tuned 
up all the time (pretty much any time we used it to quilt with -- and because 
my husband makes padded Charles le Blois-style gambesons, that was a lot). 
Out of desperation I bought a used Viking sewing school machine. It was 
refurbished and certified and everything, and I assumed that it would take a 
lot of abuse. It cost about $175, and the sewing machine store woman sneered 
at me the whole time because I wasn't even looking at the new machines that 
cost about $1,000. Well, it's worked fine, except that it's very picky about 
thread -- it only sews with the expensive kind. I had to take it back in 
because the thread snarled almost constantly, and the staff was mystified -- 
until someone remembered that another Viking had had the same problem, which 
vanished as soon as they put that German cone thread on it.

They got some and demonstrated it, and of course it worked perfectly. Well, 
being a skeptical sort, I suspected foul play. But it's really true. Stick on 
a spool of Dual Duty, and I'm sunk. So now I scout for sales and whenever 
possible I only sew with black and white thread, because you can get it in 
bigger spools. It's not a big problem, but it is a bit of a pain.

So there's something else to look out for when buying a machine!

Gail Finke
Who read in the newspaper the other day that only 5% of U.S. households own 
sewing machines. Doubting that it's really true . . .



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 07:58:00 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sewing machines
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 09:18:06 -0500
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From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>

I have to say that the premium thread requirement is something that many 
upscale machines are known for.  If you are having problems, also try 
using Groz-Beckert or Sullivan's needles.  I find they are much more 
tolerant than Schmetz (and in many cases less expensive).  G-B polishes 
the insides of the eyes of the needles, and they have a longer scarf (the 
flat depression that coincides with the hook of the machine, so the 
machine can be slightly out of time and still function) and a deeper 
groove for the thread, allowing less perfect thread to be used.  When I 
go over a machine, though, I test it with Organ brand needles.  They are 
reasonable in price, and are the brand packed with almost all new 
machines. (about $3 for 10 needles) 
 When I was teaching the children's sewing classes, and we did the unit 
on t-shirts I had the students do the hems with double needles.  The G-B 
double needles worked perfectly the first time - the Schmetz would often 
have to be "tweaked" to get them to not skip stitches.  This was on the 
student's machines, not perfectly tuned floor models.  

If your machine has a four-step buttonhole and you want to make life a 
little easier, ask your local machine dealer for a foot with an 
adjustable gauge that measures the button.  They are under $5, and make 
sure that all your buttonholes are the same size.  It makes life much 
easier!

Lisee



Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:

>
>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>
>
>Wow, I wish I'd heard that advice about the White Jeans Machine two years 
>ago 
>when I bought my last machine. I was getting sick of having my Bernina tuned 
>up all the time (pretty much any time we used it to quilt with -- and 
>because 
>my husband makes padded Charles le Blois-style gambesons, that was a lot). 
>Out of desperation I bought a used Viking sewing school machine. It was 
>refurbished and certified and everything, and I assumed that it would take a 
>lot of abuse. It cost about $175, and the sewing machine store woman sneered 
>at me the whole time because I wasn't even looking at the new machines that 
>cost about $1,000. Well, it's worked fine, except that it's very picky about 
>thread -- it only sews with the expensive kind. I had to take it back in 
>because the thread snarled almost constantly, and the staff was mystified -- 
>until someone remembered that another Viking had had the same problem, which 
>vanished as soon as they put that German cone thread on it.
>
>They got some and demonstrated it, and of course it worked perfectly. Well, 
>being a skeptical sort, I suspected foul play. But it's really true. Stick 
>on 
>a spool of Dual Duty, and I'm sunk. So now I scout for sales and whenever 
>possible I only sew with black and white thread, because you can get it in 
>bigger spools. It's not a big problem, but it is a bit of a pain.
>
>So there's something else to look out for when buying a machine!
>
>Gail Finke
>Who read in the newspaper the other day that only 5% of U.S. households own 
>sewing machines. Doubting that it's really true . . .
>
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Recommended topend machine & iron
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


>1) What iron would you recommend for costuming?

Rowenta Professional, if you're willing to kick in that much money.  I have
the next model down and have been very happy w/ it for tailoring.  The
Professional was available for use at a class I tool recently; it can really
develop a head of steam (at many temp levels); great for steam shaping
curved sleeves, lapel roll lines & the like.

>2) I am also in the market for a new sewing machine. I don't need much
quilting ability or 10 different buttonholes, but once again, something
versatile. The one I looked at seriously was a Viking (at about $1800), but
I
really didn't need all the features. I still drooled all over it.

I adore my Viking 1+. If your skill is beyond your current machine's ability
AND you want to use all the features, this is the last machine you will ever
need (*).  The major downside is that all the extras are pricey.  I've
enjoyed reverse-engineering mine. The embroidery design S/W from Viking is
cruddy.  I've offered a "garb for GUI" exchange to an SCA gent with a
penchant for programming. We'll see...

The Bernina, & Elna embroidery machines do nicely, too.  I've used both when
at "Stitch & Bitch" gatherings at friends' houses.

* mostly, I still keep the ancient kenmore for really tough projects like
jeans, leather, kevlar (repairing fencing jackets)as I'd rather not bang the
Viking out of alignment.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 09:35:29 1999
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<Yes, but Geraldine Chaplin looked absolutely upholstered!>>

Don't you think that was part of her role? I think the effect was intended
-- (both for Chaplin and Dunaway.)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 09:41:11 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Paid Costuming Gig Opportunity in SF Bay Area
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-Poster: Janice Sellers <janice@seismosoc.org>

I don't know if this has ever been posted to the list, but if it was,
apparently no one ever called.


Ft. Mason Drawing Class Looking for Costumed Models

The Fort Mason Art Center is looking for costumed models to pose for a
Monday night drawing class.  They are looking for a completely different
costume each week; they might possibly hire a model more than once
providing a different costume is worn.  Both men and women are needed.  Age
and body size are not determinants.  The class is held from 6-9 p.m.
Models are given breaks every 20 minutes.  Pay is $40 cash.

The current class started September 13 and runs for fourteen weeks.  After
this quarter ends, there is a break and then a new fourteen-week session
starts.  The class has been ongoing for seven years.  The students in these
classes are serious artists.

The class is held in the Fort Mason Art Center at Laguna and Marina Blvd.
in San Francisco.  Free parking is available in the Fort Mason parking lot.

If you are interested, call Electra Long at (510) 594-9604.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 09:50:46 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk - separate sari trim
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Some sari stores have separate gold-threaded trim, available only in like
> 9-yard hunks.  Sometimes these border trims show up in trim places for more
> per yard than the sari stores sell it for, but they will cut to length
> where the sari stores won't.  Anyway, a few of these trims have appropriate
> patterns for Ren. use.  Use these and knock 'em dead with real gold (real
> gold plate over copper wire). 

It depends on the shop. In Vancouver, BC we go to one in the Punjabi 
market (2 blocks of sari shops starting at 49th and Main) called 
Sahda Saree House where many of us regularly go to get drop dead 
trims. They will sell you as much as you want. I've been known to get 
whole rolls (20-30 yards each. They don't call me Kat-by-the-bolt for 
nothing!) Their prices seem to be better than other shops which don't 
sell as much volume in trim.

The patterns have to be chosen judiciously but I've found ones which 
look great on Byzantines, 12th Century, Italian, Tudor and 
Elizabethan (of course, not the same trim for all of them.) If you're 
not used to looking at the designs, get some xeroxes of the designs 
in sculptures, manuscripts, paintings and textiles from the time 
period you are interested in and take them with you to compare.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 09:52:02 1999
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:12:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: "'H-costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
In-Reply-To: <DFA5CD37A972D111A8BF0000F879D285DA5186@exchange.acer.edu.au>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> [snip again]
> Don't you wish that they made a basic machine that had an automatic
> button-hole?  I hate the thought of having to buy all those embroidery
> stitches just for that.
> 
> --
> 
> They did.
> 
> The Janome 'MyStyle'. I got mine eleven years ago, and it has 16 stitches
> (three of which are buttonhole). 

Also, there's an attachment for the old Singers that does buttonholes
automatically.  Straight and buttonhole, that's all I can do.

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 09:59:25 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 08:11:44 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sewing machines
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:18 AM 10/05/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
>
>I have to say that the premium thread requirement is something that many 
>upscale machines are known for.  If you are having problems, also try 
>using Groz-Beckert or Sullivan's needles.   When I 
>go over a machine, though, I test it with Organ brand needles.  They are 
>reasonable in price, and are the brand packed with almost all new 
>machines. (about $3 for 10 needles) 
>Lisee
          Hi, Lisee--Where do I order these, if my local JoAnn's/Hancock's
don't stock them?  Thanx!  Gr/ainne / Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 10:06:36 1999
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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

Vogue has done it...from the pictures on the pattern (photos of the finished product), their new zoot suit is on the money!  It looks like a fairly exact copy of the (oh-so-cool and stylish) El Pachuco zoot suit.  Unlike the Simplicity pattern where the photos showed their suit not hanging quite right (though the drawing looked ok), the photos in the catalogue look great.  

I haven't made it (heck, I just bought it yesterday), but I did read the pattern instructions.  It covers some tailoring details, but it's a bit on the skimpy side--I would add more interfacing, tape the lapels and probably substitute high-grade iron-on interfacing on the collar rather than using felt.  I'd suggest referring to a tailoring guide if this doesn't make sense to you.

So, bottom line:  as long as the Vogue pattern pieces fit together (which I imagine they will) it's a winner.  The pants are terrific, the jacket looks great!  Skip the Simplicity pattern--it's just an oversized suit and will not be as flattering...

Mary

---
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 10:09:53 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 10:34:41 -0500
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>



I also have been looking at new machines.  I'll have to place my vote with the
Bernina as it has served me well. Basically I've decided that my old 930
Bernina is still the best on the market.  The problem is I lost the power cord
and foot press (the go pedal).  I left it on a job in another town and it was
never found.  Does anyone have a bernina to sell or part out?  It will cost me
big bucks to replace and the machine has been used and abused for years.  It
has sewn for 8 hours a day for 20 years with never a problem. I just don't want
to trash it but don't want to spend too much on replacement parts. New machines
are also too high.  I don't pay that much for cars!  Jewelry and fabric, well
that's another story :)
Thanks,
Ninya

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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 09:31:59 -0700
From: stephen fairman <fairmans@teleport.com>
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-Poster: stephen fairman <fairmans@teleport.com>



MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:

> -Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>
> <<  I'd recommend a Pfaff. (huge snip)>>
>
>  Aside from that, what I said was that it was a wonderful machine, and I went
> on to mention several other brands.  I also said that it's a personal
> preference.   .  It's true they
> are expensive, as are most of the higher end machines, but most places WILL
> haggle, just like with a car.
>
> T
> the possibility of buying a used/reconditioned machine, which would
> substantially lower the price.
>
> angela
>
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Costumes & Custom Clothing
> Theatrical Costume Design
>

There is also ebay.  I was just checking it and I found several Pfaff's for as
low as $50 bid.  I have used a Pfaff 260 for ten years, sewing wool cloaks and I
love it.  My household now owns one Pfaff 260, a 230, an industrial, and a
treadle machine.  We will be buying another used Pfaff in the near future as my
son-in-law just let it out that he likes to sew (He hid this information for over
a year!)

Esteban McLachan
Shadow's Treasure Chest
http://www.cyberis.net/~fairman1


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 11:43:33 1999
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:01:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recommended topend machine & iron
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-Poster: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>

--- Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com> wrote:
> * mostly, I still keep the ancient kenmore for
> really tough projects like
> jeans, leather, kevlar (repairing fencing jackets)as
> I'd rather not bang the
> Viking out of alignment.

Really! I have an ancient Kenmore that I inherited and
I keep wondering when it's going to break (so I can
replace it with something yummy) but it never breaks
no matter how many layers of heavy canvas or leather I
try to force through it! I did not know that this was
a feature of the ancient Kenmores. I thought they were
low-end machines. Maybe I should treat mine with more
respect.

mirv


=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 11:56:28 1999
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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

Oops--I forgot to include the pattern number--2367.  You can't miss it, it's on the cover of Vogue's new pattern book, on the inside cover (with the Vintage Vogue pictures) and then in the men's section!  the models look great--wearing two-toned shoes, pointy-collared shirts, chains, and vintage ties, too (though I fault them on their clip-on suspenders--tacky)!  Unfortunately, their website hasn't been updated to include it.

Hasta, swingers!

Mary
---
Visit my homepage:
http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly

On Tue, 05 Oct 1999 08:21:21    Firefly wrote:
>
>-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
>
>Vogue has done it...from the pictures on the pattern (photos of the finished product), their new zoot suit is on the money!  It looks like a fairly exact copy of the (oh-so-cool and stylish) El Pachuco zoot suit.  Unlike the Simplicity pattern where the photos showed their suit not hanging quite right (though the drawing looked ok), the photos in the catalogue look great.  
>
>I haven't made it (heck, I just bought it yesterday), but I did read the pattern instructions.  It covers some tailoring details, but it's a bit on the skimpy side--I would add more interfacing, tape the lapels and probably substitute high-grade iron-on interfacing on the collar rather than using felt.  I'd suggest referring to a tailoring guide if this doesn't make sense to you.
>
>So, bottom line:  as long as the Vogue pattern pieces fit together (which I imagine they will) it's a winner.  The pants are terrific, the jacket looks great!  Skip the Simplicity pattern--it's just an oversized suit and will not be as flattering...
>
>Mary
>
>---
>Visit my homepage:
>http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly
>
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 12:30:10 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 13:48:05 +0000
From: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>

We've decided to move to Florida and I will be selling my book stock.
I have about 3000 books dealing with costume and textiles.

I've listed and will be listing many books dealing with historic costume
on ebay. My ebay address (bookmark it and check back frequently):

http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=books7

Right now I have several  titles on history of costume,  Costume (Journal of
Costume Society of England), Dress (Journal of Costume Society of
America), Godey's, Peterson's, Harper's Bazar (the last one listed-
1892 - has a tissue over-lay pattern for several garments), needlework,
textiles, fashion and more.

Thanks Elizabeth for letting me mention this.
Lois




---------------
Lois Mueller
Wooden Porch Books
books@woodenporch.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 12:34:30 1999
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From: "Jennifer McNitt" <jenmcnitt@excite.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
Message-Id: <939145619.21394.4@excite.com>
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-Poster: "Jennifer McNitt" <jenmcnitt@excite.com>

This weekend I went to the Walmart here in Apple Valley, MN and found that
they had the velveteen for sale also.  The Walmart in Eagan, MN did not.

The color selection was good, but for every color I wanted, they only had 5
yrd. bolts.  I need more than this for the dress I would like to make next.

What was interesting though, was that they had a navy rayon (I think) velvet
marked as velveteen and it was priced the same as the velveteen.

Jen




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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:54:40 -0700
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From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wow, Daddy-O, a Zoot Suit Pattern!
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
>
>Oops--I forgot to include the pattern number--2367.  You can't miss it,
>it's on the cover of Vogue's new pattern book, on the inside cover (with
>the Vintage Vogue pictures) and then in the men's section!  the models
>look great--wearing two-toned shoes, pointy-collared shirts, chains, and
>vintage ties, too (though I fault them on their clip-on
>suspenders--tacky)!  Unfortunately, their website hasn't been updated to
>include it.
>
>Hasta, swingers!
>
>Mary

Not to mention that Joann's has Vogue patterns on sale for 70% off for the
next 2-3 weeks!!
LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 13:23:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 11:06:01 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Cavalier visual weight gain
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

><<Yes, but Geraldine Chaplin looked absolutely upholstered!>>
>
>Don't you think that was part of her role? I think the effect was intended
>-- (both for Chaplin and Dunaway.)

Granted that the Queen's dresses were poofier than the other character's
were, but switch the dresses and you'd get the same effect.  The actress
with the larger frame could carry the extra poofyness better than the one
with smaller bones.  The fashion then was for bigger women than are
fashionable today, and the style really accommodates larger sized bodies.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 14:02:44 1999
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 15:15:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machines
In-Reply-To: <37F971F5.270C@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Mon, 4 Oct 1999, Susan Fatemi wrote:
> I know I'm not the only cheap, er poor person on the list
> but I can't imagine paying $1000 or more for a sewing machine!
> These can't be the same people who won't pay more than $.50
> a yd for fabric (as someone wrote recently on the Men's list)
> :->  Anything costs that much, I'd better be able to drive it!

LOL!  I can relate...
For several years, I used my great-grandmother's old Featherweight Singer,
keeping it well-oiled and cleaned out.  It worked just fine; I eventually
was given a new Singer by my DH for Christmas -- no computer chips, just
the top-of-the-line of the non-computerized models.  Probably cost about
$350, though I didn't ask.  It'll do everything I need it to, and it has
more metal parts than the cheaper models.  I recently bought the walking
foot attachment to do some quilting and velvet stuff.


> What on earth do these things *do* to justify the price?
> Mop the floor and change the baby!? No seriously, what
> special things do they do?

I imagine, from what I've seen in 'Threads' magazine, that they do a lot
of the computer embroidery stuff.  Personally, the computerized embroidery
looks computerized to me -- I prefer the hand-done stuff.  But if you had
to get something done in a hurry, I could see the point of having such.

-- Mara

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-Poster: tylerweiss@excite.com






________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 14:18:57 1999
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 15:32:15 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recommended topend machine & iron
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

Hi Folks,

I own an older Viking Mechanical.  It has lots of doodads, including the 
automatic buttonholer.  I went through 3 machines before I settled on this 
one.  An old warhorse of a Singer, a White, & now my Viking.  They are all 
tough!  I purchased my Viking on layaway from a vacuum shop.  It was a great 
deal.  Look through consumer reports on sewing machines before you take the 
plunge.  Good luck to you.  I'm still looking for a Singer Featherweight 
w/all the attachments.  We all have our dreams.

Pasha
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Cavalier visual weight gain
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I'm skinny and flat-chested and don't think my 1640s outfits make me look any fatter.  After all, Queen Henrietta Maria was petite. Actually, I consider the style  quite flattering to large ladies.
It's many years since I saw "The 3 Musketeers", but didn't Geraldine Chaplin play the Queen of France? Why should they have wanted to make her look larger?

Kate Bunting
King's Lifeguard of Foote, Sealed Knot

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 14:28:16 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Looking for cocoon coat pattern
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

Hello All!

I am looking for a cocoon coat pattern made by Folkwear.  Folkwear has 
discontinued it so it cannot be purchased through them.  Does anyone have one 
they wouldn't mind selling or renting?  Does anyone know where I might be 
able to get my hands on the pattern for sale from a vendor?

I would love to make this for New Year's Eve.

Thank You
Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 14:45:38 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Recommended topend machine & iron
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<a feature of the ancient Kenmores. I thought they were low-end machines.
Maybe I should treat mine with more respect.>>

The ancient Kenmores are mostly ancient Singers. Sears didn't do any of
their own manufacturing of anything; all appliances, etc. were made for
them by other manufacturers. At various times, the sewing machines were
made by Singer and White, and probably others.

Not necessarily low-end, except possibly in cost.

I think anyone should treat *any* ancient sewing machines with great
respect -- everyone I've met was a great machine, and very sturdy (not to
mention all metal). Can't say that about all the newer ones.


Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 14:47:41 1999
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Subject: H-COST:  Name My Business
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Okay, everyone:  I'm finally going to talk about what I've been hinting at
for months.  If all goes well with my meeting with a potential investor in a
few weeks, I will soon be starting my own pattern business, making high
quality historical patterns for women and men,  specializing in the pre 1650
period.  Not surprisingly, the first few patterns will be Elizabethan upper
class garments.

I'm almost done with my business plan, but it lacks one thing:  A name for
the  business.  Since I've asked the list's help with everything else,  of
course I'm coming to you all for this, too.

So, I'm holding a contest. The winner will receive a copy of the first
pattern BEFORE the publication date. 

  I need a good, evocative name that expresses what the business is about.
I don't want anything too cutesy, i.e, "You Sew And Sew" or "Forgotten
Memories"  or too stuffy, 
 "The Extremely Authentic Historical Pattern Company, Ltd".  

 I'd like something with style and panache.  In fact, I'd use "Panache" if I
thought people could pronounce it, but having had a business called
"Seraglio", I've learned THAT lesson.

   Please email me at margo@directcon.net with entries, as many as you like.
In the case of a tie, the first email wins, so hurry!

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Looking for cocoon coat pattern
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

>-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com
>I am looking for a cocoon coat pattern made by Folkwear.  Folkwear has
>discontinued it so it cannot be purchased through them.  Does anyone have one
>they wouldn't mind selling or renting?  Does anyone know where I might be
>able to get my hands on the pattern for sale from a vendor?

The Cocoon coat has not been discontinued, as it has never been released by
Folkwear; it is in process of publication and will be released "reeeeel
sooooon now".

Visit:
http://www.larkbooks.com/home.nav/fw/drawingboard.html
for updates on the release date of the cocoon coat pattern.

I, too, am looking forward to being able to buy it.

Check out their website:
http://www.larkbooks.com/home.nav/fw/index.html
for available patterns, and those discontinued patterns that remain in
stock at a 30 per cent discount.

Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 15:00:17 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>I think anyone should treat *any* ancient sewing machines with great
>respect -- everyone I've met was a great machine,

That's because the old machines you've met are the ones that didn't get
tossed on a junk heap in a foaming mouthed fit of frustration, like the
Kenmore From Hell I learned to sew on.  The best thing my mother ever did
was to trade that hunk of junk in and buy an Elna.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 17:51:21 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>Sari-weight silk has to be lightweight to hang right.  It's really scarfy
>and floaty, altho there is a 5" wide cotton facing at the hem (modern) to
>make the pleats behave.

Probably close to 100% of the saris you seen worn on a daily basis fit this
description.  However, many of the "special occasion" saris could not be
described as "scarfy and floaty."  I know this from first-hand experience
pawing over some of these "special" saris at a Toronto shop.  The silk is
supple, but quite dense, and usually there is some pretty serious brocading
going on (not just at the hems) which also increases the weight. These are
the kind of saris which are worn for weddings or festivals.  When lined (and
not even heavily lined) can do a pretty good job of duplicating the look of
Elizabethan silks.

Susan

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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 17:01:49 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Looking for cocoon coat pattern
In-Reply-To: <l03130303b42009574fb0@[208.225.99.146]>
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 01:12 PM 10/5/99 -0700, you wrote:

>-Poster: lilinah@grin.net
>
> >-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com
> >I am looking for a cocoon coat pattern made by Folkwear.  Folkwear has
> >discontinued it so it cannot be purchased through them.  Does anyone 
> have one
> >they wouldn't mind selling or renting?  Does anyone know where I might be
> >able to get my hands on the pattern for sale from a vendor?
>
>The Cocoon coat has not been discontinued, as it has never been released by
>Folkwear; it is in process of publication and will be released "reeeeel
>sooooon now".

         But, how can we have one here in my costume shop, if it was never 
released?  Oh, I see--you mean by Larkbooks, yes?  We got it several years 
ago, from Taunton, when they owned the line.  :-)

Doris


>Visit:
>http://www.larkbooks.com/home.nav/fw/drawingboard.html
>for updates on the release date of the cocoon coat pattern.
>
>I, too, am looking forward to being able to buy it.
>
>Check out their website:
>http://www.larkbooks.com/home.nav/fw/index.html
>for available patterns, and those discontinued patterns that remain in
>stock at a 30 per cent discount.
>
>Lilinah

Doris Nash   Ames, IA
Feed hungry children around the world--free!  Visit 
http://thehungersite.com to find out how.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 17:00:53 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 13:08:13 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Name My Business
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Margo Anderson
>
>"One Tough Costumer"

What's wrong with what you've already got?  I've been jealous of that for a
long time.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 17:00:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 13:03:54 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machines
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 t>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Personally, the computerized embroidery
>looks computerized to me -- I prefer the hand-done stuff.  But if you had
>to get something done in a hurry, I could see the point of having such.

Computerized embroidery was invented for those folks who need to make 1000
of the same embroidered thing.  The rest of us got these machines later.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 17:01:16 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 13:05:26 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recommended topend machine & iron
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I'm still looking for a Singer Featherweight 
>w/all the attachments.  We all have our dreams.

They're still around for sale, if you've got lots of money.  Ask quilters
where to get them (and what you have to hock to do so).


Kayta
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From: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recommended topend machine & iron
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-Poster: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>



--- Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Really! I have an ancient Kenmore that I inherited

-snip-

Maybe I should treat mine with
> more
> respect.

I have a Kenmore convertible model 1980 that I finally
killed, dead (it needs a new head, and Kenmore doesn't
make new heads for this model--supposedly they can't
be killed!). The repairman looked at it and said "aww,
you really love this machine, don't you . ." I knew I
was sunk..  It did the most gorgeous buttonholes. 
I have a Pfaff 130 (made in 1944) now and it's a good
machine, tough as nails, but it's not my Kenmore.  If
anyone out there has this model Kenmore and is willing
to part with it, you would have my undying gratitude!

Jonna


=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 18:16:42 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re:   Sewing machines
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 16:36:59 PDT
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-Poster: tylerweiss@excite.com


OOps I forgot to add my message.  I have and
adore a Pfaff 7570.  It was expensive but I
have never had a days trouble with it.  I do quit
a bit of fine sewing for my daughter and myself
and its smooth action and built in walking
foot make working on tricky fabrics a breeze.
Because it is computerized finely tuned button
holes are possible.  By changing to special
needles it is possible to make entredeux and
to even do drawn thread work as the stitches
repeat with very high accuracy.  

Tyler




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From: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@mediaone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re:   Sewing machines
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 19:47:24 -0400
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-Poster: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@Mediaone.net>


I just got a europro from Fingerhut for $300 . it will also do up to 8
layers of canvas. 11 feel adjustable height and 49 stitch functions.
Andy


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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 20:43:21 -0500
From: Heather Law <lynnx@enteract.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Obscure machine: "Domestic" brand "Gaiety" model
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-Poster: Heather Law <lynnx@enteract.com>

Has anyone ever heard of this machine ("Gaiety" is a decal on the
machine, "Domestic" is a metal logo)?  It's a dumpster-dive rescuee, and
seems to be stuck - stitch selector on a fancy stitch, roto thingie
won't turn :-(  It looks about the same vintage as my Singer 403 or
maybe later - but still all-metal.  Anyone out there ever heard of it,
or have any clues on what's wrong with it?

Thanks for any info, hints, help, cluelets...
Heather
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sewing machine recommendations......etc.
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 21:43:29 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

Sewing machines...... Let's see, I learned on my mother's circa 1939 Singer,
and currently own 1. a 16 year old Sears Kenmore, needs a tuneup but works
just fine
 2. a 1930s vintage singer, electric,  3. a Sears Kenmore serger, 2 or 3
years old, and my newest aquisition, a singer hand crank 1920s or 30s
vintage.  I guess I like the old Singers.  I still drool over the new ones,
but this entire collection cost less than one of them.  And that cost has
been spread out over 16 years.  I got the 1930s electric one so my step kids
can learn to sew on something they can't kill.  I have trouble justifying
spending more for a sewing machine than I have for all but two of my cars,
after all.

On another note - perhaps I spend too much time in the fabric store.... Last
Sunday, I was in the local JoAnn's, looking for a Xena pattern for my
stepdaughter's halloween costume.  The saleslady came up to me, asked if I
was the costume lady, and when I said yes, asked me what a farthingale was.
It seems the day before someone had come into the store wanting to "build a
farthingale" and no one in the store knew what she was talking about.
Thanks to this list, I do.  Now, so does the saleslady!!!!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 20:31:26 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 18:45:06 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Oh migosh!

Pfaff has declared bankruptcy!!!  I thought it was *Singer* that did that...

I love my Pfaffs.  Wonderful machines.

Gia/Giacinta


>> I'd recommend a Pfaff.
>
>I'd be leery myself - Pfaff recently declared bankruptcy and while that
>doesn't spell their death knell yet, it's not a good sign.  I vote for
>New Home/Janome.  But talk about your bells and whistles!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 21:21:19 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 21:15:37 -0500
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Singer did declare bankruptcy. But, they are restructuring.
Carol Ross
-----Original Message-----
From: Gia Gavino-Gattshall <ggavino@serv.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines


>
>-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
>
>Oh migosh!
>
>Pfaff has declared bankruptcy!!!  I thought it was *Singer* that did
that...
>
>I love my Pfaffs.  Wonderful machines.
>
>Gia/Giacinta
>
>
>>> I'd recommend a Pfaff.
>>
>>I'd be leery myself - Pfaff recently declared bankruptcy and while that
>>doesn't spell their death knell yet, it's not a good sign.  I vote for
>>New Home/Janome.  But talk about your bells and whistles!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 21:28:45 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Ah!

Restructuring is better than going completely belly up.

Gia/Giacinta

>
>-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
>
>Singer did declare bankruptcy. But, they are restructuring.
>Carol Ross
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gia Gavino-Gattshall <ggavino@serv.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 8:50 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
>>
>>Oh migosh!
>>
>>Pfaff has declared bankruptcy!!!  I thought it was *Singer* that did
>that...
>>
>>I love my Pfaffs.  Wonderful machines.
>>
>>Gia/Giacinta


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 22:39:56 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sewing machines
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 21:03:24 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>They got some and demonstrated it, and of course it worked perfectly. Well,
>being a skeptical sort, I suspected foul play. But it's really true. Stick
on
>a spool of Dual Duty, and I'm sunk. So now I scout for sales and whenever
>possible I only sew with black and white thread, because you can get it in
>bigger spools. It's not a big problem, but it is a bit of a pain.
>
>So there's something else to look out for when buying a machine!
>
>Gail Finke

  This is true.  I have been scolded by my Viking repairman because of all
the thread I had wrapped around the mechanisms.  Of the cone threads, he
said I could ONLY use 'Maxi-lock'. Maxi-lock comes in a few more colors than
black and white here.  He, also, said to check other brands of  thread
thoroughly for smoothness, if I wanted to use them, or they will catch in
the machine. I can't use Dual Duty either.
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 22:43:38 1999
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From: Kimberly Gilbert <kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: H-COST: Crystal Pleated Gauze?
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-Poster: Kimberly Gilbert <kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net>

Can anyone tell me what crystal pleated gauze is?  The new
Simplicity Elizabethan pattern calls for it for the ruff,
but I have no idea what it is (or where to obtain it).  Any
help would be appreciated.

Kimberly

Kimberly Gilbert	    kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net
"This is terrible news!  Do you actually intend to kill your 
enemies?  Can't you just speak sternly to them?"--Tim Rice
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 22:51:43 1999
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From: "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Accessing the H-Costume archives
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 14:06:25 +1000 
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-Poster: "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>

Greetings,

Sorry if this seems an absurd question, but I was wondering if someone could
please email me privately and advise how I can access the H-Costume
archives?

I asked this question about a week ago but received no responses.

Thanks for your time.

Mel.
meliora@sca.org.au
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 23:48:44 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 01:05:21 -0400
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

According to the info I got in March, the Archives-of-a-sort may be
found at
http://www.reference.com
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 01:05:28 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk - Elizabethan
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>>Could you use sari silk as a part of Elizabethan or Tudor?

Yes, depending on the type of sari.  I use them all the time - it's just a
matter of hunting until you find the right pattern or go for a completely
plain one.  When asking for a sari ask for Banarsi (it's a specific style
of weaving from a specific region).

>Sari-weight silk has to be lightweight to hang right.  It's really >scarfy
and floaty, altho there is a 5" wide cotton facing at the hem >(modern) to
make the pleats behave.

That's very strange.  I've never seen that cotton facing thing up here.
They must be different in the Southern US.  At the Indian stores in Toronto
you can find sari of all different weights of silk and other fibers.  It's
actually quite easy here to find nice heavy silk saris particularily the
wedding saris.

>Elizabethan or Tudor silks were stiffer than that.

I also don't think that ALL Elizabethan or Tudor silks were stiff.  Just be
sure to use an appropriate weight for what you're doing.

So, my opinon: have fun with the sari and enjoy.  It's certainly better
than using polyester or dupioni etc.

>IF you got appropriately patterned silk, and IF you lined the bejeebers
>out of it to make sure it was stiff enough, you'd probably end up with
>the right look. 

Actually, that reminded me.  I have a copy of a picture (cotton wall
hanging) from India (which I believe is in the V&A) which is late
16th/early 17th century.  It shows a blending of Indian and English stuff.
It shows two women and two men in (mostly) English style clothing made up
in Indian fabrics with the typical Indian patterns.  Admittedly, it is only
one reference but, it does show a definite crossover.

It can be found on p. 57 of "The Story of Britain" by A.L. Rowse. Artus
Publishing Company Ltd., London.  Reprinted 1993.  ISBN 0 297 83311 1

Cheers, 
Danielle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct  5 23:57:22 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 6 Oct 1999, Danielle Nunn wrote:

> 
> So, my opinon: have fun with the sari and enjoy.  It's certainly better
> than using polyester or dupioni etc.
> 
So, just out of curiosity, when does Dupioni first turn up? Is it entirely
modern?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 00:01:08 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 00:11:09 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: irons and sewing machines - long
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

Irons:  We currently have a Rowenta that works very well - it replaced one
that landed point first on a concrete floor and did the exploding grenade
trick.  I just wish the new one had the old one's non-stick plate.  I
really hate cleaning fusible interfacing gunk off it.  We bought a cheap
Hamilton Beach with Teflon plate for fusing.  Previously we went thru about
3 Black and Decker's which were about the best for under $50. (This was
over about 7 years - back then they were the only ones with auto shut-off,
which was essential.)

Sewing machines:  We currently have 5 machines and 1 serger, of which 2 of
the machines are very dead and one is used rarely.  The serger is a White
superlock which I love, but wish it had auto-rolled-hem.  It is almost as
heavy as the old metal sewing machine, but this keeps it from dancing
around on the table (and it doesn't need suction cup feet).  The dead
machines are a very low-end New Home, which was a pain in the neck from day
one, and not worth what was paid for it.  The other is a Singer (10 yrs or
so old) that was my mother's, and it is worthless.  My DH liked it when it
worked, but if you hit an obstruction, it immediately jumped so far out of
tune that the needle would hit the hook on the way down.  Just not worth
tuning it up every other day.  

The seldom-used one is a Kenmore, about 15 yrs old - the "super high bar"
model.  I don't know who made it, but it was/is a really good machine.  It
just became so frustrating to find feet for it, and my skills expanded
beyond it, that I had to get a new one.  We still use it for leather,
vinyl, denim, etc. because it laughs at 8 layers of denim.  It just doesn't
feed as well as it used to.

My current machine is a Janome/New Home 8000 - it's about 6 years old.  It
was one of the first true embroidery machines, and I have used it for
several things.  I even have the scanner, though haven't used it much -
it's an art to get your drawings dark enough to scan and sew properly.  It
sews really well, has about 100 different stitches including about 8 types
of buttonhole, and has needed only minor tune-ups since I got it.  It is no
longer available, the 9000 has replaced it.

My DH has just acquired Viking/Husqvarna's new Designer 1 with all the
professional software for embroidery design.  It sews really well, but I
personally find the auto presser-foot lift annoying.  There is no lever for
this, it is done by a button.  It also does embroidery, has a 6" x 10" hoop
area, and instead of digitizing to RAM cards, you plug the floppy disk
directly into the machine.  We're still figuring out the nuances of
digitizing - the software is pretty good, but you need to get a practical
feel for stitch density and angles.

I agree however, you need to find the machine that works for YOU.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 00:01:38 1999
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 01:15:28 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/5/1999 18:45:56 Pacific Daylight Time, ggavino@serv.net 
writes:

<< Oh migosh! 
 Pfaff has declared bankruptcy!!!  I thought it was *Singer* that did that...
  I love my Pfaffs.  Wonderful machines. 
 Gia/Giacinta
  >>

Relax... I believe that Pfaff has filed (Chapter 11) which is essentially a 
form of consolidating loans to get out of debt.  It provides protection from 
creditors while restructuring. Pfaff is owned by Singer, so it's kinda the 
same deal.  I'd bet neither company will be disappearing ... so enjoy your 
machine, I do believe that there's no reason to panic.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"O, what a world of vile ill-favored faults  looks handsome in three hundred 
pounds a year!..."
The Merry Wives of Windsor, III, iv - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 00:04:03 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Gardecorps (was Houppelande)
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Sat, 2 Oct 1999, Henk 't Jong wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
> 
> The point is: this may be the forerunner of the gardecorps, were it not for
> the fact that they seem to be worn during the same period. I haven't as yet
> found a similar garment before ca 1230, though. You may ask yourself in the
> mean time: why would they want to have the arms free from these relatively
> short sleeves: they don't interfere with work...
> 
Maybe it's a form of conspicuous consumption among the emerging middle
classes? They may not interfere with physical work, but would they 
interfere with work that involved a lot of writing/drawing (such as an
engineer, lawyer or architect might do)? 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 00:09:21 1999
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From: "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Accessing the H-Costume archives
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 15:24:50 +1000 
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-Poster: "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>

Janice,

Thanks for this but the link doesn't bring up any information for me and the
"Parent Directory" doesn't seem to go anywhere.  Can anyone please advise?
In private if necessary if I'm just being incredibly dense.

> According to the info I got in March, the Archives-of-a-sort may be
> found at
> http://www.reference.com
> 
Thanks
Mel.


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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 00:37:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Accessing the H-Costume archives
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Wed, 6 Oct 1999, Janice Dallas wrote:

> According to the info I got in March, the Archives-of-a-sort may be
> found at
> http://www.reference.com

Digests going back several years are held in a searchable archive at
<http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives>. Bravo to Eric Praetzel for
providing this invaluable resource. I have spent many hours browsing this
archive.

--Robin




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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:03 PM 10/05/1999 -0700, you wrote: -Poster: "Michelle"
<mandrake@mypad.com> 
Stick on a spool of Dual Duty, and I'm sunk. So now I Gail Finke
   This is true.  I have been scolded by my Viking repairman because of all
>the thread I had wrapped around the mechanisms.  Of the cone threads, he
>said I could ONLY use 'Maxi-lock'. Maxi-lock comes in a few more colors than
>black and white here.  He, also, said to check other brands of  thread
>thoroughly for smoothness, if I wanted to use them, or they will catch in
>the machine. I can't use Dual Duty either.
>Michelle
        So maybe the makers of thread that won't work in our machines need
to hear a write in letter campaign from us each saying that they're losing
a lot of money because we can't/won't buy their product as long as it costs
us extra time/money/repair bills/frustration.  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 02:01:17 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Looking for cocoon coat pattern
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 07:11:42 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Message-ID: <37faf4e7.51024747@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Tue, 5 Oct 1999 13:12:26 -0700, the following was written in this
electric book by lilinah@grin.net:


>The Cocoon coat has not been discontinued, as it has never been released by
>Folkwear; it is in process of publication and will be released "reeeeel
>sooooon now".

It has been issued already and then withdrawn, right after Taunton
bought Folkwear, about 6 or 8 years ago, I think. My mother made one
from this pattern, not long after they released it, many years ago
(when they first started doing the Met collection, I think). It would
probably have been in the late 80's, I guess. Memory is dim.

I remember that my mother's coat was GORGEOUS, but everything my mom
makes is gorgeous. I don't recall whether she had trouble with the
pattern, since she probably re-drafted it to her size and kept the
paper intact, she may not have noticed inconsistencies.

I'm glad to hear that they are reissuing it.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 03:22:47 1999
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From: "Craig Jones & Melissa Hicks" <meliora@macquarie.matra.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991006003257.2232C-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Accessing the H-Costume archives
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 18:38:54 +1000
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-Poster: "Craig Jones & Melissa Hicks" <meliora@macquarie.matra.com.au>

Robin,

> Digests going back several years are held in a searchable archive at
> <http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/archives>. Bravo to Eric Praetzel for
> providing this invaluable resource. I have spent many hours browsing this
> archive.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.  This is just what I needed !!!

Many thanks
Mel.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 05:50:04 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Name My Business
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 20:46:26 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

Cutesy-pie's Lovable Costume Emporium?

----------
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST:  Name My Business
> Date: 06 October 1999 06:08
> 
> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
> 
> >Margo Anderson
> >
> >"One Tough Costumer"
> 
> What's wrong with what you've already got?  I've been jealous of that for
a
> long time.
> 
> 
> Kayta
>      ////.\\\
>     ////-@@\\\
>    ((((   7 (((
>      |   -- ))))
>      * )   (((((
>   /----\   /---\
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 05:54:09 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <617939F93346D1119D0E0060B01B0B56019AC0BB@ACT02EXC001>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Accessing the H-Costume archives
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

And if that link does not work you can still access them at my ftp site
zipped up.

ftp://ftp.io.com/pub/usr/ches

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide

----- Original Message -----
From: HICKS, MELISSA <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 12:24 AM
Subject: H-COST: Accessing the H-Costume archives


:
: -Poster: "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>
:
: Janice,
:
: Thanks for this but the link doesn't bring up any information for me and
the
: "Parent Directory" doesn't seem to go anywhere.  Can anyone please advise?
: In private if necessary if I'm just being incredibly dense.
:
: > According to the info I got in March, the Archives-of-a-sort may be
: > found at
: > http://www.reference.com
: >
: Thanks
: Mel.
:
:
:  _________________________________________________________________
:  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
:  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
:

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 05:58:50 1999
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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3.0.3.32.19991006001109.03f0d6a4@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: New Rowenta
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 06:50:08 -0400
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-Poster: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>

My new Rowenta, replacing the one I dropped, of course, looks just like the
dearly departed.  It has a shiny steel soleplate.  But the old one glided
and the new one is somehow sluggish/sticky.  It is clean and I haven't
scratched it - yet.

Has anybody experienced this?  What do you recommend?


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 07:05:35 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 05:15:38 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Rowenta
In-Reply-To: <003901bf0fe8$8eea1cc0$fae37ad1@martha>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 06:50 AM 10/06/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>
>
>My new Rowenta, replacing the one I dropped, of course, looks just like the
>dearly departed.  It has a shiny steel soleplate.  But the old one glided
>and the new one is somehow sluggish/sticky.  It is clean and I haven't
>scratched it - yet.
>
>Has anybody experienced this?  What do you recommend?
               My thought was--can the soleplate of one replace the other?
-- Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 07:46:25 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 14:56:54 +0200
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
Subject: H-COST: velvet, velveteen, plush
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-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>

Definitions [summary], and a question.

Velvet is a fabric with a pile which is formed by an auxiliary warp. It is
laid into loops during the weaving process and those loops cut open. 

Velveteen is a fabric where the pile is formed by an auxiliary weft, laid
into loops and cut open later. Cotton in Europe before the 18th century
tended to be too weak for making a warp, therefore would often be used as
weft only in a fabric with a silk or linen warp; hence the usage of having
velveteen with a cotton (weft) pile. [Cf. "satin" and "sateen" where sateen
means really a weft-faced and satin a warp-faced fabric, but "sateen" is
often used just to denote a cotton satin.]

All of this is not new, I just summarize former list posts.

But I recently learned the following from a woman who had been a worker in
a plush weaving factory:

According to her, plush is a fabric woven double, with two warps, one top
and one bottom warp. The pile is formed by extra threads which go up and
down between the two warp layers. The layers are cut apart by cutting the
connecting pile threads, so that two lengths of fabric come off the loom at
once.

So, all three terms seem to be defined by weaving technology, not by
material. However, there seem to be the following traditions:
To make velvet in silk, cotton, or wool;
velveteen in cotton or synthetics;
plush in wool, wool mixes, or acrylic.

A dictionary "Basic knowledge of textile production" I looked into today
defined, on the contrary, velvet to be a fabric with less than 3mm pile,
plush a fabric with long pile longer than 3mm. Where 3mm are approximately
1/8 inch.

[Also, there is frottee, the stuff that towels are made from. Initially, it
should be woven in a technique similar to velvet or velveteen, with the
difference that the loops are never cut open, and that it is always made of
cotton. These days, however, it seems that it is an ordinary plain weave
fabric with a specific weft thread that comes with the loops already in it.]


There doesn't seem to be a distinction between velvet and velveteen in
German, at least I have found none. Maybe "Kettsamt" and "Schusssamt".

But there are more fabrics around here with a pile and velvety appearance.
One is Panné velvet, a very shiny crushed velvet made of polyester or rayon
where the base fabric is a knitted, not a woven fabric, so it stretches.
The polyester varieties have been pretty cheap the last few years
(unavailable before that), and it looks good, so people use it a lot for
decoration. (And costumes. Probably inauthentic when supposed to be
historic.) Another fabric type is "Nicki", also a fabric with velvety pile
where the base fabric is knitted. "Nicki" is not shiny. It is a cotton or
synthetic fabric normally used for children's clothes and sportswear.

What would these two varieties be called in English?


Barbara Maren

--
Barbara Maren Winkler                         barbara@math.tu-berlin.de

  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 07:47:50 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: H-COST: mystery portrait
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

Greetings to the List!

I have a mystery and ask your aid.  On page 129 of _Queen Elizabeth's
Wardrobe Unlock'd_, there is a portrait (figure 200) whose caption runs as
follows:

'Portrait of an unknown Italian lady', by an unknown artist, c. 1570-80.
Her deep mulberry jerkin is heavily embroidered with gold thread and pearls
and lies open at the neck, revealing the striped silk beneath.  Present
whereabouts unknown.

Notice the number of "unknowns" in this caption!  What I am looking for is
a color reproduction of this portrait.  For those of you whose households
are unblessed by this book, here is a little further description:  the
portrait is from about waist up, and the lady has on a light (probably
white) doublet with stripes (probably gold) with narrowish sleeves and a
smallish ruff under an embroidered jerkin with fairly puffy shoulder rolls.
The neck of the jerkin lies open to reveal the top few buttons of the
doublet.  Around her neck is a strand of pearls caught up at the bottom of
the jerkin opening and sporting a very large pendant with two square-cut
stones and a hanging teardrop pearl.

Sound familiar?
Thanks for your help!
Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 07:56:37 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: velvet, velveteen, plush
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

18th century velvets, velverets, velveteens, corduroy and a wide range of 
textiles belonged under a large category called fustian. Fustians were linen 
and cotton and 100% cotton, mainly woven in the Manchester, England area.

Beverly Lemire's book, _Fashion's Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the 
Consumer in Britain, 1660 - 1800_ is a great resource. It always helps to 
know the beginning of a textile to trace through changes over time.

Sally Queen
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 08:09:48 1999
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-Poster: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>

>Another fabric type is "Nicki", also a fabric with velvety pile
>where the base fabric is knitted. "Nicki" is not shiny. It is a cotton or
>synthetic fabric normally used for children's clothes and sportswear.

>What would these two varieties be called in English?

I don't really know but it sounds like what we call velour.
Traditionally (traditionally--like say the last 25 years?) velour had a
cotton/poly knit backing and pile, so was not too shiny. I've noticed in
the last few years that a greater number of velours are being made from
poly/rayon or poly/acetate and so are not quite as soft but definitely
have more shimmer.

- Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 08:27:59 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: New Rowenta
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> My new Rowenta, replacing the one I dropped, of course, looks just like the
> dearly departed.  It has a shiny steel soleplate.  But the old one glided
> and the new one is somehow sluggish/sticky.  It is clean and I haven't
> scratched it - yet.

When I got my new Rowenta a few years ago, it had a coating on the 
soleplate that had to be removed before use. I suspect that without 
removing it, it would be sticky. (As I recall, there were directions 
which told how to do it. I remember grousing as I was using it over 
and over on a paper towel. However, I don't remember if it was a hot 
or cold iron or if some substance aided the removal.) I suggest 
reading the box or instruction sheet.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 09:04:14 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Recommendations for good solid basic how to sew books
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

I need to learn to sew with a machine, something I haven't done since 7th
grade Home Ec. I have a good machine which needs to be reconditioned and
that's no problem, but was wondering if anyone might have any
recommendations for a good solid text on sewing. I need to learn how to
make everything from gathered skirts to drapes.

Many thanks!



					Arlys





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 09:49:14 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Recommendations for good solid basic how to sew books
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 11:04:49 -0500
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>

I have heard many people recommend the Vogue sewing book for basic 
instruction, but I find that _Simplicity's Simply the Best Sewing Book_ 
is easy to understand and very complete with basic and intermediate 
sewing instruction, including a section on understanding your machine and 
sergers.  For pattern fitting, I recommend Nancy Zieman's _Fitting 
Finesse_.

Lisee

cynthia j ley wrote:

>
>-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
>
>I need to learn to sew with a machine, something I haven't done since 7th
>grade Home Ec. I have a good machine which needs to be reconditioned and
>that's no problem, but was wondering if anyone might have any
>recommendations for a good solid text on sewing. I need to learn how to
>make everything from gathered skirts to drapes.
>
>Many thanks!
>
>
>
>					Arlys
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 09:51:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 10:09:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk - Elizabethan
In-Reply-To: <3.0.1.32.19991006010528.009aabb0@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


Everybody's talking about using saris in various types of garb; out of
curiosity, as someone living in a place where saris just aren't seen, how
much do the nice, heavy, somewhat appropriate wedding saris cost?

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 11:29:34 1999
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: velvet, velveteen, plush
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19991006145654.009d9c30@130.149.12.212>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Wed, 6 Oct 1999, Barbara Maren Winkler wrote (from Germany, I think):

> But there are more fabrics around here with a pile and velvety appearance.
> One is Panné velvet, a very shiny crushed velvet made of polyester or rayon
> where the base fabric is a knitted, not a woven fabric, so it stretches.
> The polyester varieties have been pretty cheap the last few years
> (unavailable before that), and it looks good, so people use it a lot for
> decoration. (And costumes. Probably inauthentic when supposed to be
> historic.) Another fabric type is "Nicki", also a fabric with velvety pile
> where the base fabric is knitted. "Nicki" is not shiny. It is a cotton or
> synthetic fabric normally used for children's clothes and sportswear.
> 
> What would these two varieties be called in English?

We have panne in English. Would the latter example be the same as our
velour?

--Robin




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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 11:52:49 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: "Costume Language" by Davies
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

I just got this in from ILL, and just flipping through it, I see that
it's a major work of compiling, and I'm sorry to see that Ms. Davies died
before it was fully done.  It's possible that she would have corrected some
of the problems I'm seeing just on a quickie flip through.
1.  No citations.  I have no idea where she got these definitions at all.  
This means that some of these definitions are just there with no explanation
(e.g., "BICE - Blue or Green pigments made from hydrocarbonate of copper. 
Term in use since the reign of Arthur" - Excuse Me???)
2.  Some of the definitions I know are wrong, which does not make me
confindent
about those I don't know anything about (e.g. Horned helmets on Vikings).

It looks like a lot of hard work went into this one.  I'm sorry we didn't get
to see the finished product.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 12:04:56 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 12:15:41 -0500 (CDT)
From: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
Subject: H-COST: Gores again
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu


Several weeks ago, I suggested that the side panels on 
the Hjerolfsnes #38 and #41 were not gores.  Ok, I've 
had it 'splained to me that I was wrong.  In this 
context, a "Gore" is a wedge shaped piece of fabric, 
usually triangular, which are used to "produce the 
difference in width between two points of a garment" 
(e.g. the narrowing of a waist).  In this context, it's 
even a Medieval term , and is derived from a term for a 
spear-head.

The triangular pieces set into the slits in the body of 
the skirts (and on some, in the sides, are also 
technically "Gores", but more specifically they are 
"godets" (although in this context, this appears to be a 
Victorian term - in the Middle Ages, a godet was a 
drinking cup, from Goddard).

My apologies for the misinformation. I'll try to do 
better next time.  

For the record, I still hate the term "10-gore dress", 
and I still maintain they weren't "tightly fitted".

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 12:18:41 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910052000.NAA16223@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Name My Business
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 18:46:22 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands
----- 

What about:
"(One) Tough Costumer"?

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 12:20:10 1999
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 13:32:23 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: mystery portrait
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/6/1999 06:02:22 Pacific Daylight Time, 
melanie@faucet.net writes:

<< 'Portrait of an unknown Italian lady', by an unknown artist, c. 1570-80.
 Her deep mulberry jerkin is heavily embroidered with gold thread and pearls
 and lies open at the neck, revealing the striped silk beneath.  Present
 whereabouts unknown. >>

Have you tried comparing the sitter to other portraits in the book where you 
might find a suspected artist? Then you could search the art websites by 
artist, or maybe you should just try searching them by year.

If you could provide a scan of the portrait, so that we could see what you're 
looking for, perhaps I might have it in my database of acquired 
portraiture... the written description sounds like so many Elizabethan 
portraits.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"So far as my coin would stretch; and where it would not
I have used my credit."
King Henry the Fourth; I, ii - W. Shakespeare


QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 12:20:45 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.SUN.3.90.991006155020.1090C-100000@muon>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gardecorps (was Houppelande)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 19:17:56 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Henk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands
Hi,

I wrote:
> > The point is: this may be the forerunner of the gardecorps, were it not
for
> > the fact that they seem to be worn during the same period. I haven't as
yet
> > found a similar garment before ca 1230, though. You may ask yourself in
the
> > mean time: why would they want to have the arms free from these
relatively
> > short sleeves: they don't interfere with work...
> >
Claire wrote:
> Maybe it's a form of conspicuous consumption among the emerging middle
> classes? They may not interfere with physical work, but would they
> interfere with work that involved a lot of writing/drawing (such as an
> engineer, lawyer or architect might do)?

Funny thing is that one of the first good views of a gardecorps is that of
an architect. It concerns the graveslab of Hugues Libergier, civilian and
master builder of St Nicaise church in Reims, who died 1263. The slab is
from a few years after that. (See: Nicola Coldstream, Masons and Sculptors,
British Museum Press, 1991, p. 15)

There are several gardecorpses (!) in a MS in Cambridge University, with
shortish and longer sleeves, dating from ca 1260, and they are worn by a
king (st Edward), nobility and clergy, so they were not only worn by
professional men. Conspicious consumption they certainly were...

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 12:34:14 1999
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 <l03130303b42009574fb0@[208.225.99.146]>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 10:46:41 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Looking for cocoon coat pattern
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
>
>On Tue, 5 Oct 1999 13:12:26 -0700, the following was written in this
>electric book by lilinah@grin.net:
>
>
>>The Cocoon coat has not been discontinued, as it has never been released by
>>Folkwear; it is in process of publication and will be released "reeeeel
>>sooooon now".
>
>It has been issued already and then withdrawn, right after Taunton
>bought Folkwear, about 6 or 8 years ago, I think. My mother made one
>from this pattern, not long after they released it, many years ago
>(when they first started doing the Met collection, I think). It would
>probably have been in the late 80's, I guess. Memory is dim.
>
>I remember that my mother's coat was GORGEOUS, but everything my mom
>makes is gorgeous. I don't recall whether she had trouble with the
>pattern, since she probably re-drafted it to her size and kept the
>paper intact, she may not have noticed inconsistencies.
>
>I'm glad to hear that they are reissuing it.
>
>Margery
>"Do you have any files?"
>"We're the government, of course we have files."
>Millenium
>{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}


Margery's comment about problems jogged my memory.  I have the pattern,
bought it as soon as it came out, never used it.  There are massive
problems in fitting the collar.  It needs to be seriously fudged with while
a muslin .  I learned this from two professional historic costume makers,
one of whom actually makes - and successfully sells - patterns.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 12:38:55 1999
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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910061340.GAA03644@eclipse.pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Rowenta
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 13:26:01 -0400
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-Poster: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>

Thank you, Kat. The coating on my new Rowenta soleplate was a sheet of
plastic to peel off - it would have been hard to miss.  When I checked the
instruction book (again), it recommended a hot-sole-plate cleaner.  I've
been trying that, but it still isn't as slick as glass. I also noticed that
my old beloved iron was a model "DE-87" and the new one is a "DE-871." Maybe
they've changed the sole plate formula? I'm tempted to send the old one in
for repairs - I snapped off the temperature control.
Anyway, thank you for the suggestions. A good iron makes the day brighter.


----- Original Message -----
From: <kat@grendal.rain.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 2:45 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Rowenta


>
> -Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com
>
>
> > My new Rowenta, replacing the one I dropped, of course, looks just like
the
> > dearly departed.  It has a shiny steel soleplate.  But the old one
glided
> > and the new one is somehow sluggish/sticky.  It is clean and I haven't
> > scratched it - yet.
>
> When I got my new Rowenta a few years ago, it had a coating on the
> soleplate that had to be removed before use. I suspect that without
> removing it, it would be sticky. (As I recall, there were directions
> which told how to do it. I remember grousing as I was using it over
> and over on a paper towel. However, I don't remember if it was a hot
> or cold iron or if some substance aided the removal.) I suggest
> reading the box or instruction sheet.
>
>
> Kat
>
> Kat(June Russell)
> kat@grendal.rain.com
> Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 13:09:03 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re-creations of historical fur garments
From: "Laura H. Firth Markley" <lauraf@ignatz.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "Laura H. Firth Markley" <lauraf@ignatz.com>


A year or more ago, I remember reading about a company in the U.S. that made
re-creations of fur garments based on historical patterns. Specifically, I'm
looking for a source for a child's mitten, muff or collar circa 1900 made
from sea otter fur. If necessary, I'm pretty sure I could supply the pelt.

Please reply to me personally as I am not a member to the Historic Costume
e-mail list.

Thanks very much for your help,

Laura
--
Laura H. Firth
Interpretive Exhibits Writer/Researcher
lauraf@ignatz.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 13:24:40 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE:Sari silk
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 10:24:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>

>That's very strange.  I've never seen that cotton facing thing up here.
They must be different in the Southern US.  At the Indian stores in Toronto
you can find sari of all different weights of silk and other fibers.  It's
actually quite easy here to find nice heavy silk saris particularily the
wedding saris.

I rather doubt this has to do w/ the Southern US.

You probably dont take the sari you're interested to the desk and ask them
to apply the cotton thingy (it has a name, which escapes me), or to cut off
the extra meter to make the matching blouse.  Most sari shops include these
services in the cost of the garment just as Nordstroms includes the cost of
small alterations in mens pants. By taking the sari as yardage (would that
be "meter-age"?) you are saving them this trouble.  You could probably
wangle a discount knowing this.

>ask for Banarsi

OTOH, if you like 2-3" border weaves in "cloth of gold" or brass w/ nifty
CofG medallions all over, ask for the Bombay style saris. Great for
Victorian "a disposition" gowns in fancy dress themes.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 13:24:50 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: blending of Indian and English stuff at the V&A
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 10:42:32 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>

Danielle said> Actually, that reminded me.  I have a copy of a picture
(cotton wall
hanging) from India (which I believe is in the V&A) which is late
16th/early 17th century.  It shows a blending of Indian and English stuff.
It shows two women and two men in (mostly) English style clothing made up
in Indian fabrics with the typical Indian patterns.  Admittedly, it is only
one reference but, it does show a definite crossover.

In Feb this year, there was (possibly still is) an exhibit in the V&A on
indian fabrics made up into European fashions. There were about 6 complete
garments, some misc wearable pieces, some household furnishings, too, tho'
nothing as early as 17th c.   They had roller printed indian cottons in
flower & vine designs (gen brown or blue on white ground) that were hand
painted. There were silks, there were spangles. Fun exhibit, no catalog!

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 13:44:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 13:59:11 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: mystery portrait
In-Reply-To: <bed253ca.252ce1a7@aol.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Wed, 6 Oct 1999 MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 10/6/1999 06:02:22 Pacific Daylight Time, 
> melanie@faucet.net writes:
> 
> << 'Portrait of an unknown Italian lady', by an unknown artist, c. 1570-80.
>  Her deep mulberry jerkin is heavily embroidered with gold thread and pearls
>  and lies open at the neck, revealing the striped silk beneath.  Present
>  whereabouts unknown. >>
> 
> Have you tried comparing the sitter to other portraits in the book where you 
> might find a suspected artist? Then you could search the art websites by 
> artist, or maybe you should just try searching them by year.

I would think that Ms. Arnold would have done some searching herself,
particularly since she had a source for her photograph, and presumably
something more to go on than we have.

One situation in which you get references like "Present whereabouts
unknown" and "unknown artist" is when someone puts an item from a private
estate up for auction, and it's sold to another collector. The picture may
never have been shown in public before, and although it's appraised, the
appraiser probably didn't do a full art-historical analysis on it to try
to identify the artist. 16th-century portraits by minor artists are really
pretty numerous (as a walk through almost any stately country home will
show). Once the item is auctioned and sold, it disappears from view. This
is one reason I flip through Sotheby's catalogs at used book stores. 
Often you'll find images that have never been published before, and will
never be published again.

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 14:00:31 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: mystery portrait
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

I haven't seen it anywhere in color but that doesn't mean that a color
reproduction doesn't exist. After all Janet Arnold had to get the color
information somewhere. I am afraid that I don't have time to look but is
there an index of the portraits in the book? If so that may give you more
information. If not you might try writing the publisher to see if they know
where Janet found a color copy of it. The only other thing you might be able
to do is see if indexes of portraits exist (I know they exist for
illuminations). These indexes tell where the art work in particular is
published. Good Luck!
Carol Ross
-----Original Message-----
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 8:06 AM
Subject: H-COST: mystery portrait


>
>-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>
>Greetings to the List!
>
>I have a mystery and ask your aid.  On page 129 of _Queen Elizabeth's
>Wardrobe Unlock'd_, there is a portrait (figure 200) whose caption runs as
>follows:
>
>'Portrait of an unknown Italian lady', by an unknown artist, c. 1570-80.
>Her deep mulberry jerkin is heavily embroidered with gold thread and pearls
>and lies open at the neck, revealing the striped silk beneath.  Present
>whereabouts unknown.
>
>Notice the number of "unknowns" in this caption!  What I am looking for is
>a color reproduction of this portrait.  For those of you whose households
>are unblessed by this book, here is a little further description:  the
>portrait is from about waist up, and the lady has on a light (probably
>white) doublet with stripes (probably gold) with narrowish sleeves and a
>smallish ruff under an embroidered jerkin with fairly puffy shoulder rolls.
>The neck of the jerkin lies open to reveal the top few buttons of the
>doublet.  Around her neck is a strand of pearls caught up at the bottom of
>the jerkin opening and sporting a very large pendant with two square-cut
>stones and a hanging teardrop pearl.
>
>Sound familiar?
>Thanks for your help!
>Melanie

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 15:04:54 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 13:12:34 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk - obis
References: <199910011810.LAA04226@apollo.directcon.net> <4.1.19990924121313.00bd2870@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
> >For good heavy silk brocades, though, i think I'd be inclined to look
> >for Japanese kimono silk or obi.
> 
> Weight - yes.  Pattern - I don't think so.  I've never seen a patterned obi
> that looked like Elizabethan brocade, tho I've seen some drop-dead gorgeous
> obis.
> 
This isn't Elizabethan, but I have a pink (ugh)satin obi with
sections that look just like Ottoman brocades. I mean *just*
like. Carnations, tulips, etc. It looks like someone
"pieced" odd-shaped pieces of brocades together.
The whole pattern is actually woven not pieced.

Susan
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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Subject: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I have a question about patterns:  Do people really like those fold out
instructions sheets that come with most patterns?

The instruction sheets are good in that one can see a number of steps at
once, but I always seem to misplace them, especially with a complex pattern
with multiple sheets.  

Would some other format, such as an 8 1/2" x 11" booklet, be preferable?  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 15:30:28 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: Naming My Business
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Thanks to everybody who's sent in ideas, so far.  I realized I didn't put a
deadline on the contest...but I don't think one is really needed, I'll just
keep reading ideas till I find the name I'm looking for.

I also forgot to ask opinions on the possible names I'm already considering.
Here goes:

Regalia
Regalia Costume Patterns

Masterpiece Patterns  (is it just me, or does this sound too intimidating?)

Wardrobes of The Past
Wardrobes of History  (My husband says these two sound as if I'm a cabinetmaker)

And my husband's contribution:  Complexity Patterns   (To which I replied,
"Right, by Shoot Yourself In the Foot Enterprises".  

BTW, If I end up using a name that wasn't a contribution to the contest, I
will do a random drawing from all the people who have contributed.

Thanks, 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 13:46:31 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>I have a question about patterns:  Do people really like those fold out
>instructions sheets that come with most patterns?
>
>The instruction sheets are good in that one can see a number of steps at
>once, but I always seem to misplace them, especially with a complex pattern
>with multiple sheets.
>
>Would some other format, such as an 8 1/2" x 11" booklet, be preferable?
>
>Margo
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
I, for one, don't really care what format the instructions are in.  My
concerns are that they are complete and understandable.  A pet peeve is
that assumptions are sometimes made that someone knows what a sewing term
means, and does not bother to explain the term.  That becomes a problem
when my sister, for example, tries to sew because she sews very seldom and
can't remember one term from another. Then she calls me and I have to
explain terms long distance.  I'm going to buy her a basic sewing book for
Christmas.

Two cents worth,

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 15:41:09 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 13:55:15 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> I have a question about patterns:  Do people really like those fold out
> instructions sheets that come with most patterns?

I think they're fine.

> The instruction sheets are good in that one can see a number of steps at
> once, but I always seem to misplace them, especially with a complex pattern
> with multiple sheets.

But this isn't the fault of the instruction sheets now is it?  *GGGGGGGGG*
(meant with loving kindness :)  )

> Would some other format, such as an 8 1/2" x 11" booklet, be preferable?

As some one else said, it doesn't matter to me as long as they make sense.

If you need anyone one to try them out just let me know!  I'm willing.
Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 15:47:46 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net> wrote:
>I also forgot to ask opinions on the possible names I'm already considering.
>Here goes:
>
>Regalia
>Regalia Costume Patterns

This sounds good.

>Masterpiece Patterns  (is it just me, or does this sound too intimidating?)

I don't like this

>Wardrobes of The Past

I don't like this

>Wardrobes of History  (My husband says these two sound as if I'm a
>cabinetmaker)

I think this sounds good.

>And my husband's contribution:  Complexity Patterns   (To which I replied,
>"Right, by Shoot Yourself In the Foot Enterprises".

No comment :-)

You might want to make sure someone else hasn't already registered it, but
i think i like Regalia (Costume Patterns) best.

Best wishes,
Lilinah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 15:54:25 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 16:07:24 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> I have a question about patterns:  Do people really like those fold
> out instructions sheets that come with most patterns?

I use them folded out & folded every which way! <grin>

> The instruction sheets are good in that one can see a number of steps
> at once, but I always seem to misplace them, especially with a complex
> pattern with multiple sheets.

This happens to me no matter *what* the instructions are formatted like!
OTOH I live with two kids, five cats & a dh!!
 
> Would some other format, such as an 8 1/2" x 11" booklet, be
> preferable?

We-ell... since you're asking... I think that an 8-1/2 x 11" format
would be killer... then I could load them all in plastic paper
protectors & put them in a notebook!

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 16:03:59 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 17:20:27 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Patterns - Household Hints
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>>I have a question about patterns:  Do people really like those fold out
>>instructions sheets that come with most patterns? ...I always seem to 
>>misplace them, especially with a complex pattern with multiple sheets.

After I cut out pattern pieces, I can never get all of them and the
instructions back in the envelope.  To keep from losing pieces, I
bought a box of large (about 8x10 inches) plastic "zip-lock" 
storage bags.  They are cheap, I put the envelope in the front so
I know what's in the bag, and I can fit all the instructions, my 
notes, pieces, and any brown paper extensions, etc. that I created
if I altered the pattern.  No muss, no fuss, no loss.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 16:08:26 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 17:26:48 -0500
From: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>
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-Poster: Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu>

I've been looking for another example of the strange "linen band wrap"
hat that is worn by the Magdalen in Rogier van der Weyden's painting. I
finally found it. It's another painting by Rogier, this time worn by an
attendant of Mary's. You can see it at:
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th
So we have two hats of this type. What does that prove? Absolutely
nothing! Well, it proves that Rogier used this type of hat in two
paintings, but it prooves nothing about whether this was a figment of
his imagination, a weird one-only hat worn by someone he once saw, or
something else. I don't know, but thought you might like to see it.

- Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 16:10:11 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> After I cut out pattern pieces, I can never get all of them and the
> instructions back in the envelope.  To keep from losing pieces, I
> bought a box of large (about 8x10 inches) plastic "zip-lock"
> storage bags.

That's what I do too.  The bags are a god send to costumers.  And everyone
else.  I never use them for food.  *GGGG*

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 16:14:17 1999
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

How about: Here's My Ad Dress.



				Arlys


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 16:28:43 1999
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-Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com

In a message dated 10/06/1999 4:24:53 PM Central Daylight Time, 
owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com writes:

> The instruction sheets are good in that one can see a number of steps at
>  once, but I always seem to misplace them, especially with a complex pattern
>  with multiple sheets.  
>  
>  Would some other format, such as an 8 1/2" x 11" booklet, be preferable?  
>  
As long as you have the steps in order - I remember when using Alter Years' 
bodice and corset patterns that I had to keep flipping back and forth in 
their booklet and kept losing track of what I was doing.

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
So many books, so little time

Patience is not passive; on the contrary, it is active; it is concentrated 
strength. 
        - Edward G. Bulwer-Lytton

schmitt100@aol.com
**********************
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 16:40:14 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: velvet, plush. etc.
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<According to her, plush is a fabric woven double, with two warps, one top
and one bottom warp. The pile is formed by extra threads which go up and
down between the two warp layers. The layers are cut apart by cutting the
connecting pile threads, so that two lengths of fabric come off the loom at
once.>>

This is a description of weaving velvet: historically, plush is simply
velvet woven with wool instead of silk.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 16:53:01 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Naming My Business
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 10/6/99 9:00:46 PM !!!First Boot!!!, lilinah@grin.net 
writes:

<< You might want to make sure someone else hasn't already registered it, but
 i think i like Regalia (Costume Patterns) best.
 
 Best wishes,
 Lilinah >>

For what it's worth, I like this one too.

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 16:55:08 1999
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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: mystery portrait
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<< If not you might try writing the publisher to see if they know where
Janet found a color copy of it. >>

It's much more likely that Janet found the portrait at some point in her
travels, in a private collection. She "collected" paintings and portraits
for well over 25 years, and had amassed a collection of over 100,000 images
(in slides) when she died, most of which she took herself.

As someone has mentioned, paintings and portraits are sold, often from
collector to collector, and disappear from view. I think it's highly likely
Janet saw and photographed the portrait years before she published her
book, and by the time the book was ready for print, the portrait had been
sold, and she was unaware of the new owner, which is why it's credited the
way it is.

There's no reason to assume it's ever been published anywhere else.


Deborah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 16:57:06 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 15:11:35 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th
> So we have two hats of this type. What does that prove? Absolutely
> nothing!

*laugh*  I agree.  Since both ladies are in the religious categories, I
would still hesitate to use them for a regular ol' person.  I *would* use
it for a masque or something like that.  :)

> Well, it proves that Rogier used this type of hat in two
> paintings, but it prooves nothing about whether this was a figment of
> his imagination, a weird one-only hat worn by someone he once saw, or
> something else. I don't know, but thought you might like to see it.

Thanks!  Great site.  I've seen it before, but missed this somehow.  I've
heard many folks say that Rogier has a screw loose or a creative mind
(whichever suits) when it comes to hats.  *GGG*

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 16:59:28 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 15:14:47 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Pacific NW Costume & Textiles 
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3022067687_45269_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Following is an updatedVictoria Rivers -- will be visiting Seattle on
October 21-22 to speak at a Thursday evening opening at Material Possessions
and to give a "collections seminar" at the Henry Gallery the following noon,
October 22nd.  Victoria is a professor of textile history and studio fiber
arts at UC, Davis.  Her visit will coincide with the Thames & Hudson
publication of her new book, *The Shining Cloth*.  She will be using pieces
from the  Henry's collection to illustrate points from the book in her talk.
  
Contact Judy Sourakli at the Henry Gallery (543-2281) or me (441-4459) for
further details.

*Songet - Gilt Cloth of Indonesia*.  19th & 20th century gold and silver
embellished textiles worn on ceremonial occasions in Sumatra and Malaysia.  
 Material Possessions gallery. 1932 First Ave #610. Seattle, WA 98101. 
Contact Linda Beeman  206-41-4459. through 31 December.

*Woven Symbols: Chinese Garments and Textiles*.  Seattle Asian Art Museum. 
Volunteer Park. Seattle, WA.  through 2 April.

*Talking Fingers: Contemporary Weavings from the Northern Northwest Coast*. 
Seattle Art Museum.  Seattle, WA  through 23 April.

*Textiles and Temples in Northeast India*.  Presentation by Robb Shep at the
Seattle Textile & Rug Society on Oct 14th.  206-325-8907. email 
stars.1@usa.net

*Broken Threads - From Aryanization to Cultural Loss: The Destruction of the
Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria*.  includes 40 costumes. 
Vancouver Holocaust Ed. Centre. 50-950 W. 41 St. Vancouver, BC V5Z 2N7. 
804-264-0499.  through 15 March.

*Woman of Fashion: Guendolen Plestcheeff Collection.  Museum of History and
Industry. Seattle.  through 14 Oct.

*Textile Tapestries*  by Nulie Oigaard noted stage designer and painter. 
Nordic Heritage Museum.  Seattle. WA  through 14 November.

*Age of Victoria* painting and sculpture from the Royal Academy of Art -
London.  Includies many portraits showing costume. Frye Art Museum. Seattle.
 through  2 January.

*Asian Pacific American Veterans* serving in different wars. Uniforms, etc. 
Also ethnic clothing of Asians who came to the NW. Wing Luke Museum.
Internaional District. Seattle.  through 9 April

*RAGS 2000* Wearable Art Show & Sale Benefiting the YWCA of Tacoma.
Larson Mercedes Benz in Fife just off I-5.  9 - 12 March.

*Beads and Fabric* 10 Seattle Area Artists. North Seattle CC Art Gallery. 12
Oct to 5 Nov. list of costume and textile exhibits, etc. in the Pacific
North West.


~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

--MS_Mac_OE_3022067687_45269_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Pacific NW Costume & Textiles </TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>Following is an updated</FONT>Victoria Rivers -- will be=
 visiting Seattle on October 21-22 to speak at a Thursday evening opening at=
 Material Possessions and to give a &quot;collections seminar&quot; at the H=
enry Gallery the following noon, October 22nd.  Victoria is a professor of t=
extile history and studio fiber arts at UC, Davis.  Her visit will coincide =
with the Thames &amp; Hudson publication of her new book, *The Shining Cloth=
*.  She will be using pieces from the  Henry's collection to illustrate poin=
ts from the book in her talk.   <BR>
Contact Judy Sourakli at the Henry Gallery (543-2281) or me (441-4459) for =
further details.<BR>
<BR>
*Songet - Gilt Cloth of Indonesia*.  19th &amp; 20th century gold and silve=
r embellished textiles worn on ceremonial occasions in Sumatra and Malaysia.=
    Material Possessions gallery. 1932 First Ave #610. Seattle, WA 98101.  C=
ontact Linda Beeman  206-41-4459. through 31 December.<BR>
<BR>
*Woven Symbols: Chinese Garments and Textiles*.  Seattle Asian Art Museum. =
 Volunteer Park. Seattle, WA.  through 2 April.<BR>
<BR>
*Talking Fingers: Contemporary Weavings from the Northern Northwest Coast*.=
  Seattle Art Museum.  Seattle, WA  through 23 April.<BR>
<BR>
*Textiles and Temples in Northeast India*.  Presentation by Robb Shep at th=
e Seattle Textile &amp; Rug Society on Oct 14th.  206-325-8907. email  stars=
.1@usa.net<BR>
<BR>
*Broken Threads - From Aryanization to Cultural Loss: The Destruction of th=
e Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria*.  includes 40 costumes.  V=
ancouver Holocaust Ed. Centre. 50-950 W. 41 St. Vancouver, BC V5Z 2N7.  804-=
264-0499.  through 15 March.<BR>
<BR>
*Woman of Fashion: Guendolen Plestcheeff Collection.  Museum of History and=
 Industry. Seattle.  through 14 Oct.<BR>
<BR>
*Textile Tapestries*  by Nulie Oigaard noted stage designer and painter.  N=
ordic Heritage Museum.  Seattle. WA  through 14 November.<BR>
<BR>
*Age of Victoria* painting and sculpture from the Royal Academy of Art - Lo=
ndon.  Includies many portraits showing costume. Frye Art Museum. Seattle.  =
through  2 January.<BR>
<BR>
*Asian Pacific American Veterans* serving in different wars. Uniforms, etc.=
  Also ethnic clothing of Asians who came to the NW. Wing Luke Museum. Inter=
naional District. Seattle.  through 9 April<BR>
<BR>
*RAGS 2000* Wearable Art Show &amp; Sale Benefiting the YWCA of Tacoma.<BR>
Larson Mercedes Benz in Fife just off I-5.  9 - 12 March.<BR>
<BR>
*Beads and Fabric* 10 Seattle Area Artists. North Seattle CC Art Gallery. 1=
2 Oct to 5 Nov.<FONT SIZE=3D"4"> list of costume and textile exhibits, etc. in=
 the Pacific North West.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
http://www.rlshep.com<BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3022067687_45269_MIME_Part--

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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 18:27:24 -0400
From: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Vintage Textiles Sale
To: all <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>

Just received this message, which I thought might be of interest to you. 
If you have any queries please contact them direct as I am about to go
off-list until my return from holiday on 20th October!

Margaret
antique costume & textiles
http://www.artizania.co.uk
****************************

>>Vintage Textiles will be in Santa Monica for a private trunk show
clearance sale
of our antique and vintage fabrics.  We will offer sumptuous velvet
drapery
in a rainbow of old world colors, French and English homespuns, East
Indian
silk and silver wedding sarees, European brocade and damask drapery,
circa 1930's.
We will also be showing a small collection of rare 19th century lace
handkerchiefs and
trim.

During the following dates and times, Vintage Textiles will be available
for appointments
in Santa Monica, California:


Friday, October 8             -   1:00pm to 7:00pm
Saturday, October 9          -   9:00am to 7:00pm
Sunday, October 10          -    not available
Monday, October 11         -   9:00am to 7:00pm
Tuesday, October 12         -   7:00pm to 9:00pm
Wednesday, October 13     -  9:00am to 5:00pm


Please let us know of your interest by calling Gailen Moore at our
Soquel home office
at (831) 476-9007.  We will be checking our messages several times
everyday.

Please note:  We will not be checking our email during the sale dates,
so please call
if you need to reach us.

Best regards,

Gailen Moore
www.vintagetextiles.com

<<
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 15:28:49 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>I have a question about patterns:  Do people really like those fold >out 
>instructions sheets that come with most patterns?

Not usually.

>Would some other format, such as an 8 1/2" x 11" booklet, be >preferable?

Very much so.  Especially with 3 ring binder holes so we can protect a cheap 
paperback copy!  :)

Allessandre (the Frugal)

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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 17:43:42 -0500
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>

What about....
Margo's Historic Patterns



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 17:26:42 1999
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 18:38:14 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Houppelande
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Henk: Is it possible that the garment is a pelicon rather than a houppelande?

Kathleen Norvell
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 18:53:37 -0500
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>


--------------E21C4C2E3A5829925A969FA6
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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How about.....
Measures of Time
Historic Patterns and Accessories


--------------E21C4C2E3A5829925A969FA6
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<HTML>
&nbsp;

<P>How about.....
<BR><FONT SIZE=+2>Measures of Time</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>Historic Patterns and Accessories</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------E21C4C2E3A5829925A969FA6--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 18:41:53 1999
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 <37FBD09D.63C10987@mail.brightok.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 16:53:44 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

--============_-1272868440==_ma============
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


> The Mulders suggested:
>
>How about..... Measures of Time
>Historic Patterns and Accessories
> 

OOOH.  I like that one.  I always wanted to make up cards for a historic
costume company named "Leap of Faith", because isn't it?  but the only
people who would have understood were the people who didn't need my help.

LynnD
--============_-1272868440==_ma============
Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="us-ascii"



<excerpt> The Mulders suggested:


How about..... <bigger><bigger>Measures of Time

</bigger></bigger>Historic Patterns and Accessories

 

</excerpt>

OOOH.  I like that one.  I always wanted to make up cards for a
historic costume company named "Leap of Faith", because isn't it?  but
the only people who would have understood were the people who didn't
need my help.


LynnD

--============_-1272868440==_ma============--
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 19:06:50 1999
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From: "ÃÖº¸À±" <kang0823@hanmail.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: I recommand a good internet site.
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 09:04:29 KST
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-Poster: "ÃÖº¸À±" <kang0823@hanmail.net>

I recommand a good internet site.
http://www.firstview.com
In this site, you can see collections of many designers.
Please.... go there and enjoy many good works!!! 

==================================================
NO. 1 ¿ì¸® ÀÎÅÍ³Ý, ´ÙÀ½
 ò»ý ¾²´Â ¹«·á E-mail ÁÖ¼Ò ÇÑ¸ÞÀÏ³Ý
http://www.daum.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 19:31:14 1999
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 20:43:26 -0400
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Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

Re: sewing machines

I have a Bernina and love it- it's hardly given me any trouble over almost
20 years.

BUT- when I was having some problems, the licensed service people were the
absolutely worst I have ever encountered. The held my machine twice for 4
months each time, didn't do the adjustments that they said would take "a
couple of weeks", and I only got it back finally after my husband went down
there and kinda threatened them- with legal action, not violence!

When I complained to Bernina they wrote back and said I was lying and that
the service people were wonderful.

The BBB and the DA eventually closed the service people down.

So check out the service before buying a Bernina!

-Amanda
who has her eye on a Viking <drool>- nice machine and lots of licensed
service people!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 19:39:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 20:00:06 -0500
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>

When I had my bernina serviced in OKC I had to write a check.  They didn't even
ask for ID!!!!!  She said in the 21 years of service they never had a bad check
from a bernina owner!!!!  How about that!! :)

sustre@pixelations.com wrote:

> -Poster: sustre@pixelations.com
>
> Re: sewing machines
>
> I have a Bernina and love it- it's hardly given me any trouble over almost
> 20 years.
>
> BUT- when I was having some problems, the licensed service people were the
> absolutely worst I have ever encountered. The held my machine twice for 4
> months each time, didn't do the adjustments that they said would take "a
> couple of weeks", and I only got it back finally after my husband went down
> there and kinda threatened them- with legal action, not violence!
>
> When I complained to Bernina they wrote back and said I was lying and that
> the service people were wonderful.
>
> The BBB and the DA eventually closed the service people down.
>
> So check out the service before buying a Bernina!
>
> -Amanda
> who has her eye on a Viking <drool>- nice machine and lots of licensed
> service people!
>



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 19:41:43 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>The BBB and the DA eventually closed the service people down.
>
>So check out the service before buying a Bernina!
>
This is true no matter what machine you're looking at.  Check out the
service department, ask questions of other people who use them if possible.  

Of course, if you move...I have two Vikings and the only person in town who
works on them is a banshee.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 22:00:36 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

I just like it to fit back into the pattern envelope.  I rather like some of
the folkwear and other small company patterns that are in large plastic
ziploc bags  - they seem to go back in better.  Also, no cheap smudged
copies - clear print only please.  Particularly if I'm paying a premium
price, I would like a clean copy.  BTW, what pattern(s) will you start with
and when can I buy some?
-----Original Message-----
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets


>
>-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
>
>>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>>
>>I have a question about patterns:  Do people really like those fold out
>>instructions sheets that come with most patterns?
>>
>>The instruction sheets are good in that one can see a number of steps at
>>once, but I always seem to misplace them, especially with a complex
pattern
>>with multiple sheets.
>>
>>Would some other format, such as an 8 1/2" x 11" booklet, be preferable?
>>
>>Margo
>>
>>"One Tough Costumer"
>>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>>
>I, for one, don't really care what format the instructions are in.  My
>concerns are that they are complete and understandable.  A pet peeve is
>that assumptions are sometimes made that someone knows what a sewing term
>means, and does not bother to explain the term.  That becomes a problem
>when my sister, for example, tries to sew because she sews very seldom and
>can't remember one term from another. Then she calls me and I have to
>explain terms long distance.  I'm going to buy her a basic sewing book for
>Christmas.
>
>Two cents worth,
>
>LynnD
>

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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Naming My Business
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 22:05:43 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

How about "Costumes by Margo", or "Fantastic Frocks"?
"Historically Yours, by Margo" or just "Historically Yours"

-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 8:14 PM
Subject: H-COST: Naming My Business


>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Thanks to everybody who's sent in ideas, so far.  I realized I didn't put a
>deadline on the contest...but I don't think one is really needed, I'll just
>keep reading ideas till I find the name I'm looking for.
>
>I also forgot to ask opinions on the possible names I'm already
considering.
>Here goes:
>
>Regalia
>Regalia Costume Patterns
>
>Masterpiece Patterns  (is it just me, or does this sound too intimidating?)
>
>Wardrobes of The Past
>Wardrobes of History  (My husband says these two sound as if I'm a
cabinetmaker)
>
>And my husband's contribution:  Complexity Patterns   (To which I replied,
>"Right, by Shoot Yourself In the Foot Enterprises".
>
>BTW, If I end up using a name that wasn't a contribution to the contest, I
>will do a random drawing from all the people who have contributed.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Margo
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 20:55:38 1999
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

I prefer the booklet myself, since the fold-out sheets tend to be
unwieldy.

Just my two cents!

Jennie
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 20:57:17 1999
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

Margo wrote: And my husband's contribution:  Complexity Patterns   (To
which I replied,
"Right, by Shoot Yourself In the Foot Enterprises".

LOL!  That gave me a good chuckle.  I still have my thinking cap
on.....  There is so much in a name!

Jennie
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 21:00:49 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Accessing the H-Costume archives
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

Sorry, I meant to give out the url itself:
http://www.io.com/~ches/h-costume/index.html

But I only have 1993-1996, the other one should have the most up to date
ones on it.

http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/~fashion/ (note new location!!)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide

----- Original Message -----
From: Franchesca Havas <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 5:07 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Accessing the H-Costume archives


:
: -Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
:
: And if that link does not work you can still access them at my ftp site
: zipped up.
:
: ftp://ftp.io.com/pub/usr/ches
:
: Sincerely,
: F. Havas
: Dallas, Texas
: motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide
:
: ----- Original Message -----
: From: HICKS, MELISSA <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>
: To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
: Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 12:24 AM
: Subject: H-COST: Accessing the H-Costume archives
:
:
: :
: : -Poster: "HICKS, MELISSA" <HICKS_M@casa.gov.au>
: :
: : Janice,
: :
: : Thanks for this but the link doesn't bring up any information for me and
: the
: : "Parent Directory" doesn't seem to go anywhere.  Can anyone please
advise?
: : In private if necessary if I'm just being incredibly dense.
: :
: : > According to the info I got in March, the Archives-of-a-sort may be
: : > found at
: : > http://www.reference.com
: : >
: : Thanks
: : Mel.
: :
: :
: :  _________________________________________________________________
: :  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
: :  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
: :
:
:  _________________________________________________________________
:  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
:  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
:

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From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Naming My Business
In-Reply-To: <37FBE101.CEA5A9A8@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>

Ooooo, this is my favorite so far!  (like I count?!  ROFLOL)

Svanny

At 04:53 PM 10/06/1999 , you wrote: 
>
>   
>
> How about..... 
> Measures of Time 
> Historic Patterns and Accessories 



Svanhildr  Valdimarsdottir     )O(
   Barony of Gyldenholt, Kingdom of Caid
  kittykat@primenet.com
  ICQ: 12691776 (NyteRaevyn)
  AIM: SvanhildrV 
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Naming My Business
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 22:31:36 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

I still haven't come up with anything I like better than "One Tough
Costumer."
The best I've thought of so far is "The Cabbage Rose,"--cabbage, of course,
being fabric scraps, one of the historical perqs of being a tailor.  But
that's a bit oblique. "Present Past (or Past Present)" was another idea,
although it sounds a bit like a grammatical tense.

Heck, *I* like Panache. I think it's a lot better known word than "Seraglio"
(which still trips up my tongue).

Susan

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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 01:37 PM 10/06/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>I also forgot to ask opinions on the possible names I'm already considering.
>Here goes:
>Regalia
>Regalia Costume Patterns
         Regalia may win those who wish to appear Royal, but it doesn't
attract me at all, even though I love lovely attire.
>Masterpiece Patterns  (is it just me, or does this sound too intimidating?)
         The problem, for me, with the word Masterpiece is that it seems
overworked.  As in "Perfect Patterns" or that kind of thing.   I'd feel
like nit-picking it to death just for the name, and I try not to be
'snarky'.  Appearances aside.  These are just my own quibbles/foibles,
after all.
>Wardrobes of The Past
>Wardrobes of History  (My husband says these two sound as if I'm a
cabinetmaker)
          "Robe Yourself in History" might be a great come-on line for your
website!
>And my husband's contribution:  Complexity Patterns   (To which I replied,
>"Right, by Shoot Yourself In the Foot Enterprises".  
          You're right.  It's like my former hippy acquaintance who swore
he loved the sound of the word larceny and intended to name his daughter
that...ACK!!!  Better might be:
          "Patterns from the Past...Without the Pain!" :-)
>BTW, If I end up using a name that wasn't a contribution to the contest, I
>will do a random drawing from all the people who have contributed.
          I hope the right name appears and that you do wonderfully, Lady!
Best of fortune.-- Carol, still hoping to meet you one day... 
>Thanks, 
>
>Margo
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 21:41:29 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 19:53:11 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Patterns - Household Hints
In-Reply-To: <37FBBE10.1FD94B60@serv.net>
References: <199910062030.NAA08294@apollo.directcon.net>
 <3.0.3.32.19991006172027.006afd8c@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 02:24 PM 10/06/1999 -0700, you wrote: I bought a box of large (about
8x10 inches) plastic "zip-lock" storage bags.
     That's what I do too.  The bags are a god send to costumers.  And
everyone else.  I never use them for food.  *GGGG*  Cynthia
                And I store my shoes in them at events in places where
creepy-crawlies like to creep into such items and hide... .  I also use
them for keeping notes with patterns/&c. Carol / Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 21:48:00 1999
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Message-ID: <0.79ed6622.252d66fa@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 23:01:14 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Margo's business name, packaging, seam allowance
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

In response to Margo's questions about her business, I have some 
questions for her.  
#  Who is your target customer?
#  How do you propose to advertise to those customers?
     The background of your customer and advertising venues will help 
determine the name.  In the past, you listed various names you have 
used as a person - perhaps one of these would be a starting point to 
relate to a large group of people.  As we know, on this list we like 
abbreviations for various things, including MM for a line of patterns.  
Make sure the name is pronounceable or memorable if abbreviated - or 
plan ahead to use both a name and an acronym.

#  How do you plan to package the patterns?
     How much room will you have for a logo design that will help sell the 
pattern if it's in a rack display?  How much space will you devote to a 
drawing or photo of the costume?  How will it be shipped in single or 
multiple orders?  (The priority mail envelopes and boxes from the Post 
Office are very handy.)  I personally prefer the 8 1/2 by 11 format for 
shop bibles of sketches, swatches, and instructions.  Since I did not 
learn to sew on street clothes, I dislike those foldout instruction sheets.

     Another thing I personally dislike is having someone else determine 
the seam allowance for me and include it in the pattern, since I hardly 
ever start with a 5/8" seam allowance.  "Show me the stitching line!"  
and let me determine how much seam allowance to use.  I am 
accustomed to heavy paper patterns with no seam allowance and 
notches INTO the paper to use as match up marks.   Putting the notches 
on the edge of the seam allowance means that their accuracy is 
compromised when I try to bring them back to the stitch line before I cut 
my stiff paper copy without a seam allowance.  

As to the proposed names, <Regalia> might be limiting if you branch out 
into peasant costumes.  Perhaps it could be a subheading in your 
company to indicate a collection or line of court costumes.  (Think of 
Couture versus off-the-rack).

Thanks for listening.  I just bought a pattern on ebay that had "assumed" 
seam allowance onto actual historic patterns - very annoying!

Joan in Minneapolis
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 21:50:13 1999
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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910062030.NAA08294@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

>
> The instruction sheets are good in that one can see a number of steps at
> once, but I always seem to misplace them, especially with a complex
pattern
> with multiple sheets.
>
> Would some other format, such as an 8 1/2" x 11" booklet, be preferable?
>
I hung a bulletin board next to my sewing machine and I tack up instructions
and the pattern envelopes as well as a scrap of the fabric in case I need to
test tension or something. When I remember, I put buttons, zippers, etc. in
the pattern envelope also - that way they are "there" when I need them. It
only took my 20 years of sewing to realize that I shouldn't be scrounging
around the room for various pieces every 20 minutes. I also attached a pair
of thread clippers to a very long piece of ribbon and tacked it to the
board. It has all really helped me salvage some of my sanity.

Beth

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From: "Arianne de Dragonnid  mka Grace Payne" <arianne@blackroot.org>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 99 22:57:57 
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-Poster: "Arianne de Dragonnid  mka Grace Payne" <arianne@blackroot.org>

On reading my backlog, I come across this post:

-Poster: Elizabeth Cummins <henninlady@juno.com>
>
>>I use a plain four-piece construction with gores. I've actually
>>found a picture or two that show those seam lines, too -- front, back,
>and
>>two sides, nothing else. There's a bit of a trick to cutting the neck
>and
>>the armholes so you have flexibility in certain directions, and the
>result
>>is that the dress raises the breasts high up.  You also get incredible
>>elastic-like tension on the neckline that holds it right against the
>body,
>>no gapping or "falling out."
>
>I'd be interested in seeing a well made 4-piece cotehardie gown. Does
<the rest is snipped>

I'd be interested in seeing your documentation, my lady.  I've seen some OK stuff, but I'm mostly running on 
feelings down here, and am surrounded by people who seem to think that the cotehardie was a tight version 
of the "Greenland Gown" (I like that name, as it strongly insinuates that it was worn in Greenland, as opposed 
to, say, France), unless perhaps they wear it because it's easier to fit their more substantial curves into.  I've 
worked out a pattern that fits me perfectly and gives just the right silhouette, and the lady Elizabeth quoted is 
right, it is possible and quite easy actually to work out.  You just have to give up your attachment to straight 
lines:  the only straight lines in my pattern are in the skirt.  It also helps to come from working on 12th and 13th 
century garb -- they had a lot in common, when you get down to the basic thought processes involved in 
layout and design.


Yours in the Dream,
	Arianne de Dragonnid

Shire of Castlemere, Kingdom of Trimaris

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

"The founder of my noble line was wont to see Dragons.  His Lady rode out from the forest 
in a gown of samite and was as young on the day he died as on their wedding day."

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 21:58:33 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 20:09:51 -0700
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

R.L. Shep wrote:
> 
> Following is an updatedVictoria Rivers -- will be visiting Seattle on
> October 21-22 to speak at a Thursday evening opening at Material
> Possessions and to give a "collections seminar" at the Henry Gallery
> the following noon, October 22nd. Victoria is a professor of textile
> history and studio fiber arts at UC, Davis. Her visit will coincide
> with the Thames & Hudson publication of her new book, *The Shining
> Cloth*.

My copy of this book *just* arrived from Amazon. Haven't had
time to really go thru' it but it looks fabulous! Wish I
could attend all the events as well!

Susan

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 22:53:39 1999
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-Poster: lilinah@grin.net

Hope Greenberg <hope.greenberg@uvm.edu> wrote:
>
>I've been looking for another example of the strange "linen band wrap"
>hat that is worn by the Magdalen in Rogier van der Weyden's painting. I
>finally found it. It's another painting by Rogier, this time worn by an
>attendant of Mary's. You can see it at:
>http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th
>So we have two hats of this type. What does that prove? Absolutely
>nothing! Well, it proves that Rogier used this type of hat in two
>paintings, but it prooves nothing about whether this was a figment of
>his imagination, a weird one-only hat worn by someone he once saw, or
>something else. I don't know, but thought you might like to see it.

Having not really much to do with whether or not this is an actuall sort of
headdress in the 15th C., i will note that Gautemalan women in some regions
wear (or at least traditionally wore), a headdress made of a narrow hand
woven tapestry band wrapped around their heads in a manner awefully similar
those in these two paintings, except they don't have lace edges and they
are quite brightly colored.

These Guatemalan head bands were eventually somewhat commercialized in the
1970's and have since been sold as decorative trim in the US (here in No
Cal, at least). I just bought some a month or two ago.

But once upon a time, they were wound around their heads into a big flat
wheel, very like van der Weyden's paintings. So, it's historical, if not
Low Land-ish :-)

Lilinah


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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Naming My Business
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>


>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

<snip> "Shoot Yourself In the Foot Enterprises".
>

Catchy name. Twisted, shows ingenuity and ambition; with just a touch of 
insanity. I like it. :-)

Lonna

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 23:21:20 1999
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From: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>
To: <margo@directcon.net>
Cc: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: naming
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 21:31:54 -0700
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-Poster: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>

I really like 

            Measure of Time  !!!! 

Really!!  
Sidne 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 23:24:43 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 14:13:53 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk - Elizabethan
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>>Sari-weight silk has to be lightweight to hang right.  It's really scarfy
>>and floaty, 

and

However, many of the "special occasion" saris could not be
>described as "scarfy and floaty."  I know this from first-hand experience
>pawing over some of these "special" saris at a Toronto shop.  The silk is
>supple, but quite dense, and usually there is some pretty serious brocading
>going on (not just at the hems) which also increases the weight. These are
>the kind of saris which are worn for weddings or festivals.  When lined (and
>not even heavily lined) can do a pretty good job of duplicating the look of
>Elizabethan silks.

Mea oops-a.  I used to own a red sari the dealer said was for weddings, and
it was pretty stiffly encrusted with gold and silver threads.  The cloth
was thin between the metal threads, see-thru in fact.  And yes, I have seen
others of stuff the weight of dupioni silk with additional metal threads.
I agree - these are not your everyday wear.  Many sari stores in this area
don't even carry saris that high-end.  (But my favourite sari stores are
the ones which sell remnants.)


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 23:36:04 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 20:41:03 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
> 
> <<  I'd recommend a Pfaff. (huge snip)>>
> 
> <<  I'd be leery myself - Pfaff recently declared bankruptcy and while that
> doesn't spell their death knell yet, it's not a good sign.  I vote for  New
> Home/Janome.  But talk about your bells and whistles! >>
> 
> Carolyn,  Pfaff is currently owned by Singer, which I doubt is going under
> any time soon.   The company has filed for reorganization/protection from
> creditors, which is true of perhaps a third of the corporations in this
> country and abroad at any given time.

My leeriness is based on the fact that Pfaff is a *German* based company
which means that the bankruptcy laws may not be the same as they are in
the US (which tends to be more lenient in that regard), although I
confess I don't know what the German bankruptcy laws are like.  Second,
Singer declared bankruptcy *primarily* because of Pfaff's bankruptcy -
if it hadn't been for that there's doubt that there would have been a
serious need for it.  That indicates to me that the financial position
of Singer is a little more precarious than they *may* be letting on.  

Is that reasonf or panic or not buying Pfaff?  No, that's not what I
said - I just said I'd be leery (i.e. cautious) because of the
problems.  I seriously doubt Singer will go under, but that's no
guarantee for their Pfaff division.

Carolyn (a mundane accountant and one who's been thru one too many
"reorganizations" for her liking)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 23:38:42 1999
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From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Deborah Pulliam wrote:
> 
> -Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
> 
> <<a feature of the ancient Kenmores. I thought they were low-end machines.
> Maybe I should treat mine with more respect.>>
> 
> The ancient Kenmores are mostly ancient Singers. Sears didn't do any of
> their own manufacturing of anything; all appliances, etc. were made for
> them by other manufacturers. At various times, the sewing machines were
> made by Singer and White, and probably others.

Actually, Singer *never* made badged machines.  But White, National and
a ton of others did, and many of them made "clones" of Singer machines. 
And I mean down to the parts being interchangeable.  My mother-in-law
has a clone of the later Singer 115 models made in Japan. 

As long as they're solid metal, it doesn't really matter who made them -
they'll sew thru darn near anything.

Carolyn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 23:38:56 1999
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Cynthia Barnes wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
> 
> >That's very strange.  I've never seen that cotton facing thing up here.

the only sari's I own with the cotton facing tend to be very light
weight polyester chiffons.  I call the cotton the "dust ruffle" although
I don't know what the Indian's call it.

Carolyn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct  6 23:39:32 1999
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 23:54:22 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: mystery portrait
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>Have you tried comparing the sitter to other portraits in the book where you
>might find a suspected artist? Then you could search the art websites by
>artist, or maybe you should just try searching them by year.

That's a thought, though I would certainly be an amateur art analyst.  I
would say that the artist is likely Italian or Spanish, as the features
show more sensitivity than the rather abstracted English style, but beyond
that I can't make any guesses.

>If you could provide a scan of the portrait, so that we could see what you're
>looking for, perhaps I might have it in my database of acquired
>portraiture... the written description sounds like so many Elizabethan
>portraits.

As it happens, I'm getting a scanner relatively soon.  I'll send you a copy
when I have it.

As Deborah and Robin rightly suggest, I suspect that this portrait is in a
private collection and that the only color reproduction may be in Janet
Arnold's archives (oh for an hour in there with a large sack!!).

>-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
>
>I am afraid that I don't have time to look but is
>there an index of the portraits in the book? If so that may give you more
>information. If not you might try writing the publisher to see if they know
>where Janet found a color copy of it. The only other thing you might be able
>to do is see if indexes of portraits exist (I know they exist for
>illuminations). These indexes tell where the art work in particular is
>published.

The photographic acknowledgements do not list this image.  When looking in
an index, how would I locate this portrait (no artist, no subject, no
location)?  Is there a listing under Unknown?  I have looked in Carol
Jackson's collection online (in the unknown section)--are there others I
should try?

Many thanks for all the kind suggestions!

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 00:53:10 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Obscure machine: "Domestic" brand "Gaiety" model
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 08:43 PM 10/05/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Heather Law <lynnx@enteract.com>
>
>Has anyone ever heard of this machine ("Gaiety" is a decal on the
>machine, "Domestic" is a metal logo)?  
  

The White sewing machine company used to be called White Domestic.  I
believe the "Domestic" name was a seperate company that White later merged with.

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>        So maybe the makers of thread that won't work in our machines need
>to hear a write in letter campaign from us each saying that they're losing
>a lot of money because we can't/won't buy their product as long as it costs
>us extra time/money/repair bills/frustration.  Carol


Absolutely, but do you think that they will care?  I am not sure that it is
a problem only with Viking machines.  In the large scheme of things, Vikings
machine users may only be a mere .08% of the mass of sewing machines in use
out there.  It may make more sense to complain to Viking to fine tune the
burrs.  However, in the long run,  I would prefer better quality thread.
Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Name My Business
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
>
>Cutesy-pie's Lovable Costume Emporium?
>
Be careful!  She warned you!! ;)
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 01:22:50 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 02:35:43 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk - Elizabethan
In-Reply-To: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991006100809.13544B-100000@bigred.unl.edu>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Everybody's talking about using saris in various types of garb; out of
>curiosity, as someone living in a place where saris just aren't seen, >how
much do the nice, heavy, somewhat appropriate wedding saris cost?

It completely depends on the quality of the sari, how well you know the
merchant, and how well you bargin.  Around here, bargaining starts at half
of the price tag and goes down from there.  I've paid as little as $100
Canadian and up.  There's one in particular I'm lusting after that is $700.
 Sigh.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 01:22:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 02:33:01 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE:Sari silk
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I rather doubt this has to do w/ the Southern US.

It was just a thought.  ;)

>You probably dont take the sari you're interested to the desk and ask
>them to apply the cotton thingy (it has a name, which escapes me), or to
>cut off the extra meter to make the matching blouse.  Most sari shops
>include these services in the cost of the garment just as Nordstroms
>includes the cost of small alterations in mens pants. By taking the sari
>as yardage (would that be "meter-age"?) you are saving them this >trouble.
 You could probably wangle a discount knowing this.

Actually, even in the ones my Indian friends wear I've never seen it.
Maybe it's a tradition from a certain locality in India.  Also making the
choli is an "extra" in all the stores that I frequent (I'm on excellent
terms with the some of the merchants and had asked about it).  And yes,
it's still yardage. <g>  Actually, fabric shopping around here can get kind
of confusing.  Half the stores (non culturally specific stores) sell by the
meter and yet a lot of the stores in the garment district still sell by the
yard.  When you go fabric shopping you have to go armed with the amount you
need in yards and in meters.

Cheers,
Danielle

>>ask for Banarsi
>
>OTOH, if you like 2-3" border weaves in "cloth of gold" or brass w/ nifty
>CofG medallions all over, ask for the Bombay style saris. Great for
>Victorian "a disposition" gowns in fancy dress themes.
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
>408.570.1023
>Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
>Phoenix Technologies
>411 E. Plumeria Dr.
>San Jose CA 95134
>"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
>give the wrong answers."
>

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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 23:38:56 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sewing machines
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 11:22 PM 10/06/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>Absolutely, but do you think that they will care?  I am not sure that it is
>a problem only with Viking machines.  
             I did not address Viking's machines only.  I meant everyone
here whose machine acts this way with the less expensive threads.  And yes,
I think that if we and SCA-Garb and some of the reenactment groups began an
extensive write-in campaign, and boycott of the offending thread, we might
get the companies' attention.

It may make more sense to complain to Viking to fine tune the
>burrs.  However, in the long run,  I would prefer better quality thread.
>Michelle
              And when the consumer shuts his/her pocketbook--you bet the
manufacturers will listen. :-)  But it has to be a well-coordinated effort,
so that they have reason to notice.
Carol, who's about as uncoordinated as a person gets, but that's another
story...

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 01:36:20 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 02:49:16 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Name My Business...some of my suggestions
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

OK, here's a few of mine...not promising anything, so here goes....

 Modes de l'Histoire  (French is always "chic")  Modes of History

Classical Couture  or Couture Classics

Antiquity's Wardrobe/Closset

Backward Glances
( Fine clothing from our past)

Fashions from Time

Anyhow...that was my brainstorm...maybe something will trigger someone else 
to be more creative than I.

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 01:42:08 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Found it
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 00:05:44 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


Hope wrote:
>> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th
>> So we have two hats of this type. What does that prove? Absolutely
>> nothing!
Cythia wrote:
>*laugh*  I agree.  Since both ladies are in the religious categories, I
>would still hesitate to use them for a regular ol' person.  I *would* use
>it for a masque or something like that.  :)
I am writing:
  I wonder if it is something that is pulled from biblical. Both portraits
(I think) have to do with Christ. It could be that the artist used mostly
the modern dresses, from his time, and biblicized it with the wrap style
headwear from what historical representation he had access to.
Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 23:54:50 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> I have a question about patterns:  Do people really like those fold out
>> instructions sheets that come with most patterns?
>
>I think they're fine.
>
>> The instruction sheets are good in that one can see a number of steps at
>> once, but I always seem to misplace them, especially with a complex
pattern
>> with multiple sheets.
>
>But this isn't the fault of the instruction sheets now is it?  *GGGGGGGGG*
>(meant with loving kindness :)  )
>
>> Would some other format, such as an 8 1/2" x 11" booklet, be preferable?

I would prefer something not so large. Half the size would be better so that
it is not neccessary to know mapfolding 101 to get it back into the
envelope.  I also, like getting some documentation and information with my
patterns as 'Period Patterns' does. This makes the letter size booklet sound
very appealing.
Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: recycling/questions-sewing machines
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 00:13:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>




>
>-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
>
>When I had my bernina serviced in OKC I had to write a check.  They didn't
even
>ask for ID!!!!!  She said in the 21 years of service they never had a bad
check
>from a bernina owner!!!!  How about that!! :)


LOL!  Next time I write a check and they ask for identification, I'll tell
them, "Don't worry about it. You don't need it because I am a Bernina
owner!" (I guess I can't say that, I have a Viking.)
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 01:50:11 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 00:04:08 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Name My Business
To: h-costume@indra.com, "MargoAnderson" <margo@directcon.net>
Message-id: <37FBE374.B7DCEAB2@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Margo wrote:

> I'm almost done with my business plan, but it lacks one thing: A name
> for the business. Since I've asked the list's help with everything else,
> of course I'm coming to you all for this, too.

All right. I love a good challenge. Here's some first thoughts:

A Stitch in Time

Past Panache

Period Panache

Timeless Treasures

Designs Through Time

Timeline Designs

Eternal ________ (Treasures, Designs, Style(s), Panache, etc.)

I agree with Carol about the words 'masterpiece' and 'perfect'. They sound a
little tough to live up to. My problem with 'regalia' is that it doesn't
really apply to costume, but to the sword, scepter, orb etc. But, I guess I'm
just picky that way. ;-)

Good luck, whatever you come up with.

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Naming My Business
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 00:21:36 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>
>>
>>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
><snip> "Shoot Yourself In the Foot Enterprises".
>>
>
>Catchy name. Twisted, shows ingenuity and ambition; with just a touch of
>insanity. I like it. :-)
>
>Lonna

Sounds more like describing wine.
      Rare year. Fruity, yet woodsy undertones. No bite with just a touch of
smoothness.
Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: sewing machines
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>             I did not address Viking's machines only.  I meant everyone
>here whose machine acts this way with the less expensive threads.  And yes,
>I think that if we and SCA-Garb and some of the reenactment groups began an
>extensive write-in campaign, and boycott of the offending thread, we might
>get the companies' attention.


What is offending to one machine, may not be to another. This may not be a
fair thing to do. It may be that the machines have preferences that are
different for each brand. If we all boycotted which threads were offensive
to the specific brand of machine we have, they would all be sunk. It depends
on the age of the thread too. The length of time in the store or in our
sewing rooms isn't the fault of the thread companies.
    Like guns, you have to buy the ammo that works well for your particular
gun. It isn't the fault of the ammunition maker if it doesn't work well in
every gun.
  If this is something that is a problem with Vikings only, then I can see
going somewhere with this. I can see going somewhere with this too,  if a
particular brand is offensive to every machine.
Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business...some of my suggestions
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>
>Backward Glances
>( Fine clothing from our past)
>Charles


 I like that one. It has a ring to it.
Michelle

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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Found it...AND Raglan....
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Thanks Hope,
  
> I've been looking for another example of the strange "linen band
> wrap" hat that is worn by the Magdalen in Rogier van der Weyden's
> painting. I finally found it. It's another painting by Rogier, this
> time worn by an attendant of Mary's. You can see it at:
> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th So we have two hats of this type.
> What does that prove? Absolutely nothing! Well, it proves that
> Rogier used this type of hat in two paintings, but it prooves
> nothing about whether this was a figment of his imagination, a
> weird one-only hat worn by someone he once saw, or something else.
> I don't know, but thought you might like to see it. 

The dress is also similar to the one worn in the other painting - the 
"raglan" seam is there (this time visible from the back, and it looks 
(to me) like it could be a short sleeve rather than a wide shoulder-
strap this time.....



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Naming My Business
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


 
> How about.....
> Measures of Time
> Historic Patterns and Accessories

*This* one gets my vote... Though I'd say the "One Tough 
Costumer"  name could be kept in resrerve, perhaps for a "special" 
collection of more detailed/complicated patterns in the future or 
something....?

Whatever name you pick, I hope it all goes well.

Good luck getting the funding sorted.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Margo's business .....seam allowance
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

I suspect this is one where you won't be able to please *everyone*

My view is just the opposite to Joan's

> Another thing I personally dislike is having someone else
> determine the seam allowance for me and include it in the pattern,
> since I hardly ever start with a 5/8" seam allowance.  "Show me the
> stitching line!"  and let me determine how much seam allowance to
> use.  I am accustomed to heavy paper patterns with no seam
> allowance and notches INTO the paper to use as match up marks.  
> Putting the notches on the edge of the seam allowance means that
> their accuracy is compromised when I try to bring them back to the
> stitch line before I cut my stiff paper copy without a seam
> allowance. 
 
I actively avoid patterns that don't include seam allowance.  I like to 
be able to cut something out and match up the edges of the fabric 
knowing that (in theory at least) the seam allowance is the same 
on both pieces and I don't have to spend extra time thinking about 
how much seam allowance to allow when cutting out each piece so 
they'll match up when I start sewing.

Sometimes, I *do* use a different seam allowance in certain 
situations, but it's usually a larger one, so cutting further from the 
edge of the pattern piece isn't a problem....

On the other hand, Margo, If you *do* go with the no-seam-
allowance option, I'd probably buy the patterns anyway on the 
grounds that any good pattern is better than no pattern at all for 
*most* of the stuff I'm interested in making....<g>

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Subject: H-COST: Machine origins:  Singer/Sears
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 07:39:40 -0500
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From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>


>Deborah Pulliam wrote:
>> 
>> -Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
>> 
>> <<a feature of the ancient Kenmores. I thought they were low-end machines.
>> Maybe I should treat mine with more respect.>>
>> 
>> The ancient Kenmores are mostly ancient Singers. Sears didn't do any of
>> their own manufacturing of anything; all appliances, etc. were made for
>> them by other manufacturers. At various times, the sewing machines were
>> made by Singer and White, and probably others.

Carolyn Richardson wrote:

>Actually, Singer *never* made badged machines.  But White, National and
>a ton of others did, and many of them made "clones" of Singer machines. 
>And I mean down to the parts being interchangeable.  My mother-in-law
>has a clone of the later Singer 115 models made in Japan. 

In my Sewing Machine Blue Book, the guide for values for used machines 
for us sewing machine dealers, it says in the Singer pages, "** after a 
model number indicates Singer machines which are sold by Sears.  A Sears 
model number is on the instruction book and the Singer number is on the 
ID plate.  If known, the Sears model number is listed, however, all model 
numbers marked '**' are sold by Sears."

Most of the models made by Singer and sold by Sears were made between 
1985 - 1989 and from 1990 - 1993. 

The earliest Kenmore not produced in the US was made in Japan in 1949.  
There was one model Mfd by Chrysler from 1960 - 1965, and has a salvage 
value of $1...

National, by the way, is listed as one of the many nameplates produced in 
China, Japan, Korea and Thailand.  

>As long as they're solid metal, it doesn't really matter who made them -
>they'll sew thru darn near anything.

As long as the parts were quality made when they were produced.  Some of 
the bottom line machines that are all metal produced in Brazil and 
Malaysia are a bearcat to get to sew properly, and impossible to get to 
sew really well.  Even bottom of the line machines from White, etc.  Look 
at the country of manufacture for a guideline when buying a low level 
machine.

Lisee (who seems to attract all the old homeless machines in her vicinity)

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Naming My Business
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 07:49:34 -0500
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>


>          "Patterns from the Past...Without the Pain!" :-)

Awfully close to Past Patterns, an existing company.

>   A Stitch in Time

an existing clothing merchant

>  Timeless Treasures

an existing merchant

>  Backward Glances
>   ( Fine clothing from our past)

ooh - this one is nice!

In any case, stating the patterns are designed by "One Tough Costumer" 
would be a nice catchphrase.

As a merchant of patterns, I would ask that the pattern number and title 
be along the top edge of the pattern, so displaying them in a rack is 
possible.  I like the booklet form on instructions, like Stretch and Sew. 
 And please don't make the cover low contrast (black on purple) so those 
of us who need to scan the pattern to advertise it have a chance to use 
your own artwork.  And when you're ready to wholesale, I'm ready to buy 
in quantity!  And selling them in Ziploc type bags is good too!  Paper 
pattern jackets rip when they are moved around, and if people remove the 
patterns to look at the instructions.

Lisee
www.sewingcentral.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 07:19:24 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 05:30:37 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Margo's business .....seam allowance
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 11:40 AM 10/07/1999 +0000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>
>I suspect this is one where you won't be able to please *everyone*
>
>My view is just the opposite to Joan's
>I actively avoid patterns that don't include seam allowance.       
            I tend to vote with Teddy on this aspect. And do as she does:
>Sometimes, I *do* use a different seam allowance in certain 
>situations, but it's usually a larger one, so cutting further from the 
>edge of the pattern piece isn't a problem....
>Teddy
            And like Teddy--if your patterns are solid, people WILL buy
them regardless of these small quibbles, so suit yourself, Margo, and don't
let our thoughts make you crazy/[ier] than trying to start up the new
business already likely is. :-)  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 08:05:46 1999
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From: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

Following up on this discussion...

I recently purchased a used Janome 8000.  It's a discontinued high-end model from about 5 years ago, so it's a good step up for me (I'm bowled over by all the fancy stitches and the embroidery capabilities).  Buing a used machine ended up being a good compromise between a price I could afford and the high-end features I wanted.

I do wonder, however, whether my "new" machine will survive the Y2k problem.  I wrote to Janome and haven't heard back from them.  I understand that the machine did come with a 25 year parts warranty, but I don't know if I can use this as the second owner.  The store I bought it from does give me a 3 month guarantee for the machine--however, that barely puts me into 2000 (and I understand that some problems may be delayed by a few months).

Any ideas on this one?

Mary
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 08:19:43 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:34:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets
In-Reply-To: <199910062030.NAA08294@apollo.directcon.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

I think the fold-out form isn't a bad idea, because it gives you an
overview of what's coming up next, step-wise.  I tend to read the
instructions through before cutting anything, and having to flip the pages
of a booklet (or put something on the booklet to hold the pages open)
might be a nuisance.

Cheers,
Mara


On Wed, 6 Oct 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> I have a question about patterns:  Do people really like those fold out
> instructions sheets that come with most patterns?
> 
> The instruction sheets are good in that one can see a number of steps at
> once, but I always seem to misplace them, especially with a complex pattern
> with multiple sheets.  
> 
> Would some other format, such as an 8 1/2" x 11" booklet, be preferable?  
> 
> Margo
> 
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
> 

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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:59:19 EDT
Subject: H-COST: St. Louis Shirt
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-Poster: Kwhykelly@aol.com

Hi,

I sort of got roped into teaching a class this weekend.  I thought that doing 
the St. Louis shirt would be easy, as I have made them before and it's 
construction would be fairly painless for me and the class.  

My construction portion of the class is under control, but I am hoping you 
all could help me with the more detailed documenting of the this shirt or 
shirts of this time period.

I have the _Cut My Cote_ and while I will be using it for my primary source, 
I am hoping to get other sources for further detail and accuracy.

Some things that I would like to be able to answer if it is brought up:

So, what type of stitches were used at that time?  Running stitch?  How were 
the hem and sleeves finished, rolled hem?  I am assuming from the picture 
that the neck line was bound in some sort of tape or cloth, but what?  Wool, 
more linen, or didn't I read in one of these posts that silk was used 
sometimes?

Also, I was wondering if anyone knew of any pictures of people wearing them?  
I was looking in my copy of Piponnier's  _Dress in the Middle Ages_ but did 
not see anything.  Any online sources that I can download?

Many thanks

Kristi Kelly
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: when to buy good thread
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


Carol said> So maybe the makers of thread that won't work in our machines
need
to hear a write in letter campaign from us each saying that they're losing
a lot of money because we can't/won't buy their product as long as it costs
us extra time/money/repair bills/frustration.

Why waste the time?  Vote w/ your purse.  Buy the good stuff: maxilock,
gutermann, molnicke & others.  You wont have to deal w/ pilling, weak
threads, lumpy threads & breakage nearly as much. While the viking requires
it, even my 1961 kevlar stitching Kenmore likes good stuff better.  The
difference in cost is trivial.

I also clean the machines & change needles a the start of every project.
Your good fabric &  good design deserve a sharp needle, nice thread & a
properly oiled machine. Less frustration & more time saved in the long run.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
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References: <199910070302.VAA13013@net.indra.com> <E11ZCjk-0003Gt-00@mongoose.slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Margo's business name
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

My entry...  

Seams Antique Patterns

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 09:04:59 1999
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com


If you're focus is Elizabethan you could do the Shakespearean thing and have: 

As you Like It Patterns

Romeo & Juliet Patterns

Measure for Measure Patterns,etc.

Just don't do Much ado About Nothing Patterns...;-)

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 09:23:10 1999
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Subject: H-COST: prints in private collections
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Speaking of art work in private collections that will never be seen in
books, here is a merchant that has the most beautiful prints and
engravings I have seen in a while. He took great care to display them very
well on ebay.

http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=martin2001

I suggest those of you interested please go and collect the images with
text to catalog them for your own biblio's.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 09:46:44 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

While I personally prefer patterns with no seam allowances, the overwhelming
preference, at least in the US, is for patterns that have the seam
allowances included.  Even Burda gave up and started including them a few
years ago.  I know when I was working in a fabric store it was like pulling
teeth to get people to use Burda because they would have to add them. 

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: mystery portrait
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>


>The photographic acknowledgements do not list this image.  When looking in
>an index, how would I locate this portrait (no artist, no subject, no
>location)?  Is there a listing under Unknown?  I have looked in Carol
>Jackson's collection online (in the unknown section)--are there others I
>should try?
>
>Melanie
>
I have not ever looked in indexes for portraits so I am unsure as to how to
look for this piece. I would think that there would be either an unknown
sitter or unknown artist section. Good Luck!
Carol Ross

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 10:10:25 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 08:26:59 -0700
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> How about.....
> Measures of Time
> Historic Patterns and Accessories
>

Oh yeah.  This is good.  Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 10:25:13 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> >> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th
> >> So we have two hats of this type. What does that prove? Absolutely
> >> nothing!
>   I wonder if it is something that is pulled from biblical. Both portraits
> (I think) have to do with Christ. It could be that the artist used mostly
> the modern dresses, from his time, and biblicized it with the wrap style
> headwear from what historical representation he had access to.

Yup, that's it.  Allegorical.  Don't know if Rogier had historical
representation from another company for those head dresses but turbans were
certainly popular for representing middle eastern persons.  And in some weird
way, this is sort of a turban.  Well it's wrapped anyway.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 10:30:33 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> > http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th
>
> The dress is also similar to the one worn in the other painting - the
> "raglan" seam is there (this time visible from the back, and it looks
> (to me) like it could be a short sleeve rather than a wide shoulder-
> strap this time.....

And notice, no waist seam.  And I love the detail of the see-through
pre-partlet fichu type thing that is pinned into a point center back.
It also looks to me like there are two side back seams that are only sewn
to mid thigh.  Showing off the underdress.  This is a *very* interesting
painting.  Thanks!

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 11:16:15 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 14th century Dress
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"Arianne de Dragonnid  mka Grace Payne" <arianne@blackroot.org>>
>...I'd be interested in seeing your documentation, my lady.  I've seen
>some OK stuff, but I'm mostly running on feelings down here, and am 
>surrounded by people who seem to think that the cotehardie was a tight 
>version of the "Greenland Gown" (I like that name, as it strongly 
>insinuates that it was worn in Greenland, as opposed to, say, France), 

Unfortunately it's NOT the only gown worn in Greenland, even in the
Middle Ages.  It's only one of many.

>unless perhaps they wear it because it's easier to fit their more >substantial curves into.  I've worked out a pattern that fits me 
>perfectly and gives just the right silhouette, and the lady Elizabeth >quoted is right, it is possible and quite easy actually to work out.  
>You just have to give up your attachment to straight lines:  the only >straight lines in my pattern are in the skirt...

Gee, the only straight lines in the original are in the godets in the
front and back skirts, the entire front and back pieces upto the
armholes, the side pieces (although the wedge to the waist, and the
strips above them are different straight lines), oh and the sleaves.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 11:08:41 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:22:53 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Sari cotton strips
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

My friend from India who wears saris all the time sews a cotton strip to the 
part that tucks in at the waistband so that it stays tucked in.  The cotton 
is not as slippery as the silk, or especially polyester.  The strip also 
lengthens the skirt portion so that taller people  can wear the ones meant 
for use by the (often shorter) people of India, by not losing any length of 
the original fabric as turnover at the waist. 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 11:17:43 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:36:39 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Naming My Business
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>



> 
> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> 
> How about "Costumes by Margo", or "Fantastic Frocks"?
> "Historically Yours, by Margo" or just "Historically Yours"

Just a note: Historically Yours is the name of an existing pattern and book merchant. They 
are the ones who own the rights to Period Patterns.

--Jessica
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 11:23:48 1999
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From: "Steve & Michelle Plumb" <splumb@ic.net>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 12:38:24 -0400
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-Poster: "Steve & Michelle Plumb" <splumb@ic.net>


>
>>Backward Glances
>>( Fine clothing from our past)



> I like that one. It has a ring to it.
>Michelle

Ooooh.  That one has my vote, too!
Graceful and elegant.

--another Michelle


================================================================================
                      Steve & Michelle Plumb   --    splumb@ic.net
                                     Plymouth, Michigan  USA


"Insisting on perfect safety is for people
 who don't have the balls to live in the
 real world. "
     -- Mary Shafer, NASA Ames Dryden
================================================================================


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 11:31:26 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 09:30:32 -0700
From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
Organization: Lavolta Press
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Subject: Re: H-COST: prints in private collections
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.9910070935430.18331-100000@fnord.io.com>
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



ches@io.com wrote:

> -Poster: ches@io.com
>
> Speaking of art work in private collections that will never be seen in
> books, here is a merchant that has the most beautiful prints and
> engravings I have seen in a while. He took great care to display them very
> well on ebay.
>
> http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=martin2001
>
> I suggest those of you interested please go and collect the images with
> text to catalog them for your own biblio's.

I guess I shouldn't mention that doing this without the seller's permission
would be a copyright violation?  The modern scans or photos of the old images
are the property of the seller, and so are the descriptions the seller wrote.
Furthermore, ebay is making increasingly frequent statements about how other
people do not have the right to use their sellers' data--I think another
statement about this was recently included in the ebay user agreement.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 12:29:28 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 13:42:07 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/6/1999 1:32:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< I have a question about patterns:  Do people really like those fold out
 instructions sheets that come with most patterns?
 
 The instruction sheets are good in that one can see a number of steps at
 once, but I always seem to misplace them, especially with a complex pattern
 with multiple sheets.  
  >>
Don't mind them, as they can be stuck under the corner foot of my sewing 
machine and held in place to be referred to easily.  I think they must be 
popular because the printing is cheaper.  As long as the instructions are in 
a good, clear, order, with some description of any really unusual techniques, 
then I"m happy.

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"See! How she leans her cheek upon her hand, 
O! That I were a glove upon that hand,
That I might touch that cheek."
Romeo & Juliet, II, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 12:34:34 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:53:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Dyeing quesion
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


I have a piece of fabric that I got at a thrift store cheap which I have
been intending to use on my first attempt at Tudor garb.  I have, however,
decided that the color is inappropriate, and furthermore, I don't like it.
The fabric itself is a nice, heavy, drapy satin-weave cotton, kelly green
on one side and a mottled turquoise/kelly teal-ish color on the other.  

What I would like to know is what color I should over dye it for something
more appropriate, and what kind of dye is reasonably easy to use for
someone without a kitchen or washer of her own (ie: living in a dorm).

Many thanks in advance for any help or advice

Emma

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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Found it
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> >> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th
>> >> So we have two hats of this type. What does that prove? Absolutely
>> >> nothing!

While I realize you folks are being conservative, all I can say is that in
just about every case where I've researched an unusual treatment like that,
in the late 15th, early 16th c art,  where the rest of the costume is true
to a period style, I've found similar examples in non-allegorical art.
Sometimes they are hard to find, but dismissing it as a turban is
unrealistic too. By the 15th c, painters had lots examples of turbans from
previous painters... I can't even guess why one would paint a fram filter
hat instead...

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 12:44:00 1999
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Found it...AND Raglan....
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> > http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th
>>

>It also looks to me like there are two side back seams that are only sewn
>to mid thigh.  Showing off the underdress.  This is a *very* interesting
>painting.  Thanks!

I've seen that split side opening on some other flemish gowns. I'm pretty
sure that some of the lion and unicorn tapestry ladies also have side slits
in their overgown.


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Message-ID: <00a801bf10ef$896fd8e0$ba973018@pbc.adelphia.net>
From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910071459.HAA19656@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Margo's biz name and seam allowance
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 14:12:36 -0400
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Status: RO


-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Margo wrote:

<<While I personally prefer patterns with no seam allowances, the =
overwhelming preference, at least in the US, is for patterns that have =
the seam allowances included. =20

There is an easy way to satisfy both types of customers.  Simply include =
the standard 5/8" seam allowance with a sold line.  Then include a =
dotted cutting line for no seam allowance.  The customer chooses to use =
the standard seam allowance or make their own and you're a heroine for =
making everyone happy.=20

As for a name, I cast my vote for "Measure of Time" and "Measure for =
Measure Patterns".  I agree with the poster who suggested fitting the =
name to your target market as well as to the product itself.  If you =
have nearly completed your business plan, you should have all this =
information at your fingertips.  I'd like to add, the name you decide =
should fit your present situation as well as your plans for the future.

Best of luck, Margo!

Erica D. Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 13:17:21 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 11:34:06 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Found it...AND Raglan....
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> >It also looks to me like there are two side back seams that are only sewn
> >to mid thigh.  Showing off the underdress.  This is a *very* interesting
> >painting.  Thanks!
>
> I've seen that split side opening on some other flemish gowns. I'm pretty
> sure that some of the lion and unicorn tapestry ladies also have side slits
> in their overgown.

But these slits are in the back!  I've only seen them in the front before.

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: RE:Cleaning Machines (was when to buy good thread
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

One of the things I do is keep a can of compressed air by the machine so
that every time I change the bobbin I remember to clean out the
machine.  It's easy to just 'spritz' the bobbin compartment before you
put the bobbin back in.

Kat
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Margo's business .....seam allowance
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> While I personally prefer patterns with no seam allowances, the
> overwhelming preference, at least in the US, is for patterns that have
> the seam allowances included.  Even Burda gave up and started
> including them a few years ago.  I know when I was working in a fabric
> store it was like pulling teeth to get people to use Burda because
> they would have to add them.

Here's my take on it... if you mark the sewing line and have a seam
allowance provided then the customer can choose to use *either*.  It's
easy enough to just cut on the dotted line if you *don't* like seam
allowance... I do both (well, actually I make butcher paper copies of
almost *everything*... definitely anything multi-sized!!).  When I draft
my own I tend to have either very small seam allowances or very large
ones depending on how I'm finishing the raw edges.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 14:00:19 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: prints in private collections
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I guess I shouldn't mention that doing this without the seller's permission
>would be a copyright violation?  The modern scans or photos of the old images
>are the property of the seller, and so are the descriptions the seller wrote.

I agree.  I save dagguerotypes from ebay listings all the time, but only for
my own personal viewing.

Here's a hypothetical question:  what if I had permission from an image's
owner to publish said image, say, a photograph, and put it on my website.
If the person who gave me the permission later sells the photograph,  does
the new owner have the right to make me take it off the site?

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 14:09:25 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 15:23:10 -0700
From: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>
Organization: House Wolfholme
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Margo's business .....seam allowance
References: <199910071459.HAA19656@apollo.directcon.net> <37FCEAC3.4FD93EC0@home.com>
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-Poster: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>

Kat & Kent wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> 
> Margo Anderson wrote:
> >
> > While I personally prefer patterns with no seam allowances, the
> > overwhelming preference, at least in the US, is for patterns that have
> > the seam allowances included.  Even Burda gave up and started
> > including them a few years ago.  I know when I was working in a fabric
> > store it was like pulling teeth to get people to use Burda because
> > they would have to add them.
> 
> Here's my take on it... if you mark the sewing line and have a seam
> allowance provided then the customer can choose to use *either*.  It's
> easy enough to just cut on the dotted line if you *don't* like seam
> allowance... I do both (well, actually I make butcher paper copies of
> almost *everything*... definitely anything multi-sized!!).  When I draft
> my own I tend to have either very small seam allowances or very large
> ones depending on how I'm finishing the raw edges.
> 
> Kat
Ditto.  What she said.

Debbie
-- 
Freya

Abair ach beag, is abair gu math e.
Say but little, and say it well.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 14:14:33 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE:Cleaning Machines (was when to buy good thread
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 01:42 PM 10/07/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>One of the things I do is keep a can of compressed air by the machine so
>that every time I change the bobbin I remember to clean out the
>machine.  It's easy to just 'spritz' the bobbin compartment before you
>put the bobbin back in.
>
Some repair technicians claim that this can cause problems by forcing lint
particles further into the mechanism.  They say you should use one of those
nifty little vaccuum cleaners that computer people use.  You can also buy a
kit of mini attachments for a full size canister vac, too.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Margo's business .....seam allowance
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>Here's my take on it... if you mark the sewing line and have a seam
>allowance provided then the customer can choose to use *either*.

the problem is, when you're multi-sizing, it's impossible to give both
stitching and cutting lines without them overlapping.  Given that most
people prefer seam allowance, I'll be going that way and giving tips for
removing them if peope want to.  

I just realized I'm making my self nervous talking about this as if it was a
done deal.  I'm still writing my business plan, I meet with my potential
investor in two weeks, and nothing is confirmed.  At the risk of sounding a
bit New Age, could everyone please send me positive energy on this venture?
I haven't been this nervous, excited, stressed and happy at once since my
first child was born.   EEK!

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 14:29:34 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 15:43:25 -0400
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Name My Business
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>


Hello,

I just have to throw in my two cents!  =)
> 
> -Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
> 
> All right. I love a good challenge. Here's some first thoughts:
<snip>
> 
> Past Panache

This sounds like she's gone past panache and into gaudy!  =)
> 
> Period Panache

I like this one... but then, I like the word "panache".  
> 
> Timeless Treasures
Eh... a little cheesy for my taste...
> 
> Designs Through Time
> 
> Timeline Designs
> 
I like both of these, though I like "Designs Through Time" better.

> Eternal ________ (Treasures, Designs, Style(s), Panache, etc.)

Eternal Panache! <grin>  Maybe not...  =)
> 
> I agree with Carol about the words 'masterpiece' and 'perfect'. They sound a
> little tough to live up to. My problem with 'regalia' is that it doesn't
> really apply to costume, but to the sword, scepter, orb etc. But, I guess I'm
> just picky that way. ;-)

I agree on both counts. "Masterpiece Patterns" makes me think of "Masterpiece Theatre"...
> 
> Good luck, whatever you come up with.

Ditto!

--Jessica
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE:Cleaning Machines (was when to buy good thread
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>



> Some repair technicians claim that this can cause problems by forcing
lint
> particles further into the mechanism.  They say you should use one of
those
> nifty little vaccuum cleaners that computer people use.  You can also buy
a
> kit of mini attachments for a full size canister vac, too.  

I have one of those attachment kits on order. As soon as it arrives, I
intend to take it for a 'test drive'. If anyone is interested in a review,
let me know and I'll post how well it works.

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Margo's business .....seam allowance
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

>  At the risk of sounding a
> bit New Age, could everyone please send me positive energy on this
venture?
> I haven't been this nervous, excited, stressed and happy at once since my
> first child was born.   EEK!
> 
> Margo

Not new-agey at all! Even us 'old style' folks send good vibes to each other
when needed. 

Now *ahem* to make this somewhat H-Costume, I'll pull out my pointy hat
(traditionally decorated with gold tissue and spangles) and my Victorian
Magic Stuff outfit . . . 

*POUF!*

There! You have been happily magicked, and can do whatever you set your mind
to. Now, go ye forth and conquer! 

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Found it...AND Raglan....
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> >It also looks to me like there are two side back seams that are only sewn
>> >to mid thigh.  Showing off the underdress.  This is a *very* interesting
>> >painting.  Thanks!
>>
>> I've seen that split side opening on some other flemish gowns. I'm pretty
>> sure that some of the lion and unicorn tapestry ladies also have side slits
>> in their overgown.
>
>But these slits are in the back!  I've only seen them in the front before.

They look to be on the side in line with the side seam to me, though the
side seam is set slightly towards the back. The other slits I've seen have
have also been on the side, though usually straight down from the armpit.

Julie Adams


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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 15:03:31 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Margo's business .....seam allowance
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> the problem is, when you're multi-sizing, it's impossible to give both
> stitching and cutting lines without them overlapping.  Given that most
> people prefer seam allowance, I'll be going that way and giving tips
> for removing them if peope want to.

That's fine by me!!!  Of course, I'll probably be buying them anyway! 
It's a pity you can't do color or you could have a different color for
each size.

> I just realized I'm making my self nervous talking about this as if it
> was a done deal.  I'm still writing my business plan, I meet with my
> potential investor in two weeks, and nothing is confirmed.  At the
> risk of sounding a bit New Age, could everyone please send me positive
> energy on this venture? I haven't been this nervous, excited, stressed
> and happy at once since my first child was born.   EEK!

Energy on it's way!  I think everything will go very, very, very well. 
Maybe everyone's talking about it like it's a done deal will make it so
(we change things through will & intent <wink>).

Kat
looking forward to seeing patterns by One Tough Costumer
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: The fall at the bottom of a Sari (was "Sari cotton thing")
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 13:25:16 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


>The strip also lengthens the skirt portion so that taller people can wear
the ones meant
for use by the (often shorter) people of India, by not losing any length of
the original fabric as turnover at the waist.


We're talking about many different cotton add-ons. To summarize:
1. JPMcTeer described 2 kinds one added at the waist to lengthen for the
tall folk,
2. and the slip-preventer that sounds like it's a facing, also at the waist
3. Kayta described a stiffener that makes the pleats fall correctly (it's
not clear whether this is at the waist or hem),
4. Someone else mentioned a "dust ruffle" which sounds like it extends below
the hem & touches the floor,
5. I've described (not well) a piece that runs the entire length of the hem
giving weight and proper hang to the lighter, floaty saris.  It stops as the
sari begins to move upward forming the shoulder cover & hanging piece w/ the
pallou (the nifty woven design at the end).

#2  You wear a petticoat & tuck into that.
#4  I just dont believe anyone would add 3-4" of cheap, ugly cotton to the
bottom of a nice sari, sorry.
#5  This is the way mine was "built" at the sari shop & my S Indian
co-workers & friends approve.

So, I've just asked Bindumalini (my coworker) her opinion.  Some things: the
choli is called "blouse" when speaking Canada; choli is the Hindi word.  The
cloth piece is a "fall" in Canada (lang not country).  Younger women often
secure the CF pleats to the petticoat with a safety pin on the inside. Older
ladies never do.

She thought that putting the fall on the top was funny... "Indian women
arent that tall!", she said. The slipping theory made her laugh out loud.
"What nonsense!"  The real purpose of the hidden fall at the hemline is to
give the extra weight. Second, she says, if the sari has the beautiful gold
weave at the bottom, the loose threads are covered so you wont step on them.

To wrap up (pun intended), sounds like there's lots of ways to wear 'em.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 15:14:48 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 13:30:22 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: St. Louis Shirt
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> So, what type of stitches were used at that time?  Running stitch?

Yes, and back stitch.  And a few others.  Take a look at the Museum of London's
_Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450_.  There is stuff on construction techniques in
there, including sleeve finishes.  The St. Louis shirt is the only one of it's
kind in existence that I know of.  I am of the impression that it is made
entirely from linen, including the fabric used to bind the neck.

> Any online sources that I can download?

Hmmm, not that I know of.  Not primary sources anyway.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Well, I ordered 10 yards of black and 5 yards or brown velveteen from
them.  Some of you expressed a desire to know the quality.  I'm
pleased.  It isn't that luscious Empress velveteen but then it was $3
per yard too.  A long yard.  39 inches so I got almost 11 yards of the
black.  It's cotton, as nice as anything available at JoAnn's (except
Empress velveteen) and totally worth it.  I am quite pleased, it will
make nice pants for work and a circle skirt I've been dreaming of.

So, good velveteen, 16.25 yards of it, for $55 including shipping.
I'm a satisfied customer.

Cynthia / Merouda
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 16:24:53 1999
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Thanks everyone for your suggestions! 8)



				Arlys

___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 16:25:51 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 16:39:36 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: prints in private collections
In-Reply-To: <199910071912.MAA16938@apollo.directcon.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

those kind of rights will always belong to the person that made or took
the picture. There are some real sharp folks on this list that can tell
you the complete scoop on that though.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 7 Oct 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:12:46 -0700
> From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: prints in private collections
> 
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> 
> >I guess I shouldn't mention that doing this without the seller's permission
> >would be a copyright violation?  The modern scans or photos of the old images
> >are the property of the seller, and so are the descriptions the seller wrote.
> 
> I agree.  I save dagguerotypes from ebay listings all the time, but only for
> my own personal viewing.
> 
> Here's a hypothetical question:  what if I had permission from an image's
> owner to publish said image, say, a photograph, and put it on my website.
> If the person who gave me the permission later sells the photograph,  does
> the new owner have the right to make me take it off the site?
> 
> Margo
> 
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
> 

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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<If the person who gave me the permission later sells the photograph,  does
the new owner have the right to make me take it off the site?>>

Probably. Reproduction rights usually -- not always -- go with the sale
(major exception is when the person selling the work created it. In other
words, when you buy an original painting or work of art from the artist,
you normally don't automatically get the reproduction rights.)


Deborah



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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 18:12:12 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Phoenix Textiles
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

In a message dated 10/7/99 1:40:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time, keltia@serv.net 
writes:

<< 
 So, good velveteen, 16.25 yards of it, for $55 including shipping.
 I'm a satisfied customer.
 
 Cynthia / Merouda
 --
 Cynthia Long
 Merouda the True of Beaumaris
 Barony of Madrone
 Kingdom of An Tir
  >>
Hi,

I'm new to this list.  Sounds like a great deal to me.  Could I get the scoop 
on how to order from Phoenix?

Thanks,
Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 17:19:07 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>



> I'm new to this list.  Sounds like a great deal to me.  Could I get the scoop
> on how to order from Phoenix?

http://www.phoenixtextiles.com

:)  Welcome!

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 18:14:51 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets
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-Poster: "Kathryn L. Herb" <kayherb@juno.com>



Hmmm.....I seem to be in a minority so far.  The smaller size sheets
would indeed store better, but I like to pin the bigger ones to the
low-mounted 6'x4' bulletin board on the wall behind my machine.  Then I
can see it as I sew and it's easier to look ahead to what's coming.  


That's also where I pin the parts of what I'm working on (trims, extra
needles, reference photos, two pins in a line to set my ruler on, etc.,
etc.) so I have them right at hand.  If it weren't for pressing, I'd
never have to get up, and with my fibromyalgia, that's a blessing!  <G> 
It's not exactly a bulletin board -- made it by making a braced frame of
1"x3"s, covering that with cardboard and covering that with fabric jes'
fer pretty.  It folds in the middle, should I ever decide to take it down
to store in the closet.


So, now you know my opinion!  <G>


Kay
kayherb@juno.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 19:03:02 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 04:39 PM 10/07/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>those kind of rights will always belong to the person that made or took
>the picture. 

Yes, but I'm talking about photos taken by people who have been dead for a
hundred years.  It's a horribly confusing grey area, in which it's generally
assumed that the owner of the actual photograph owns the rights...but what
if there were originally multiple copies, that are now owned by multiple
people....ACK!

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Subject: Re: H-COST: St. Louis Shirt
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 7 Oct 1999 Kwhykelly@aol.com wrote:

> 
> I have the _Cut My Cote_ and while I will be using it for my primary source, 
> I am hoping to get other sources for further detail and accuracy.
> 
I believe this shirt is also described in 'Evolution of Fashion' by Naomi
Tarrant (I think that's the right title).
> Some things that I would like to be able to answer if it is brought up:
> 
> So, what type of stitches were used at that time?  Running stitch?  How were 
> the hem and sleeves finished, rolled hem?  I am assuming from the picture 
> that the neck line was bound in some sort of tape or cloth, but what?  Wool, 
> more linen, or didn't I read in one of these posts that silk was used 
> sometimes?
> 
> Also, I was wondering if anyone knew of any pictures of people wearing them?  
> I was looking in my copy of Piponnier's  _Dress in the Middle Ages_ but did 
> not see anything.  Any online sources that I can download?
> 
I don't know if you'll have much luck finding pictures of something exactly
like that because the artwork of that time doesn't get into seam details.
Isn't it a 13th century shirt? Try looking for pictures from the Windmill
Psalter or early calendars or Books of Hours. You might be able to find
someone going about in their shirt in the marginal illustrations.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 19:20:10 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910052000.NAA16223@apollo.directcon.net> <37FBE374.B7DCEAB2@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Name My Business
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 16:59:34 -0500
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-Poster: "gail_middleton" <gail_middleton@email.msn.com>

There is a quilting website named "Paper Panache" which is selling
paper-piecing patterns. Perhaps it would be good to avoid a name that sounds
too much like that.

Gail M.

----- Original Message -----
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; MargoAnderson <margo@directcon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 7:04 PM
Subject: H-COST: Re: Name My Business


>
> -Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
> Greetings,
>
> Margo wrote:
>
> > I'm almost done with my business plan, but it lacks one thing: A name
> > for the business. Since I've asked the list's help with everything else,
> > of course I'm coming to you all for this, too.
>
> All right. I love a good challenge. Here's some first thoughts:
>
> A Stitch in Time
>
> Past Panache
>
> Period Panache
>
> Timeless Treasures
>
> Designs Through Time
>
> Timeline Designs
>
> Eternal ________ (Treasures, Designs, Style(s), Panache, etc.)
>
> I agree with Carol about the words 'masterpiece' and 'perfect'. They sound
a
> little tough to live up to. My problem with 'regalia' is that it doesn't
> really apply to costume, but to the sword, scepter, orb etc. But, I guess
I'm
> just picky that way. ;-)
>
> Good luck, whatever you come up with.
>
> Dietmar
>
>
> "Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
>  over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 19:50:07 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 18:01:03 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: RE:Sari silk
References: <000001bf101f$b07ce930$6b037a86@phoenix.com> <37FC1B19.D72C1C40@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Carolyn Richardson wrote:

> the only sari's I own with the cotton facing tend to be very light
> weight polyester chiffons.  I call the cotton the "dust ruffle" although
> I don't know what the Indian's call it.
> 

If anyone's keeping score, a friend sent me several used saris
in a nice weight, from London. They all have the cotton hem lining. 
(I saw a similar lining on a vintage dress -- possibly
Victorian -- that I assume fulfilled the same function:
keeping the hem clean)

Susan F.
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 20:25:46 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 21:45:50 -0400
From: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Magdalen sleeves
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.990930210233.3378H-100000@shell.nightowl.net> <37F57B4D.11E65C53@inreach.com>
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

I too have seen several paintings and drawings where this style of dress
was ment to stand alone, w/o an overdress. The brocaded sleeve is pinned on
for several reasons. 1. bcz brocade was too expesive to make a whole dress
out of but sleeves could be exchanged between may dresses.2. pins such as
the gold or possibly brass pin in the magdalen painting were fluanted as a
sign of wealth as were the sleeves. The world of the Medieval Housebook
shows many period drawings in this basic style.
Jean

Diana H wrote:

> -Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
>
> Robin Netherton wrote:
>
> > -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> >
> > On Thu, 30 Sep 1999, Elizabeth Jones wrote:
> >
> > > >Well, first off, the dress she's seen wearing is her underdress,
> > over
> > > >which would have gone a fashionable gown (as is indicated by the
> > fancy
> > > >embroidered/brocaded sleeve).
> >
> > -- That isn't what I think I see.  Her sleeve has a pin, which leads
> > me to
> > -- believe that the sleeves are not part of a dress but, pinned on to
> > make
> > -- her plain and sleeveless gown more fashionable.
> >
> > > I believe the first set of comments is more accurate. This is a
> > > representation of (dare I say it?) a kirtle or underdress. Sorry,
> > don't
> > > know the Flemish/French  term as we have already discussed. The
> > sleeves
> > > were pinned on to a short sleeved underdress, but would have shown
> > under
> > > her overdress - houppelande, etc.
> >
> > That was my assumption for a long time, no doubt because I read that
> > explanation somewhere years ago. But after spending a lot of time
> > studying
> > 15th-century Flemish dress last year, I've been rethinking that idea.
> > There's no doubt that the short-sleeved dress is an underdress, but
> > once I
> > started looking, I didn't see any pictures that jumped out at me as
> > being
> > examples of fancy false sleeves showing out from under the large
> > sleeves
> > of an overdress. In fact, most of the overdresses I saw
> > contemporaneous
> > with these short-sleeved underdresses had narrow sleeves, not wide
> > ones
> > that would show off a fancy undersleeve.
> >
> > That got me wondering whether the short-sleeved underdresses were
> > developed specifically to be worn under the (relatively new)
> > narrow-sleeved overdresses -- maybe to reduce warmth and bulk on the
> > arm.
>
> Diana here.....
>
> While I normally know more about Italian than anything, I found this
> style to be particularly interesting and so I did some searching and
> here is what I found:
>
> This Flemish style of chemise, short-sleeved overdress, then pinned-on
> sleeve is shown in a number of paintings--just as is.  I have not
> encountered a style of overdress where these sleeves show through.  That
> doesn't mean they didn't do it, but I think the typical style of this
> gown was just as you see in that picture of the Magdalen.
>
> I have a photocopy that I got from a library book which unfortunately
> has no particular painter credited but which does show three ladies
> maids in various states of this dress.  One is reaching into some wash
> water and is wearing a white chemise with sleeves that end between her
> elbow and wrist.  Her overdress is a mottled yellow and brown (time-worn
> paint maybe?) and on her right arm she is wearing one oversleeve in
> blue.  The lady next to her has a rose-colored overgown which is lined
> in gray and the skirt guarding is also gray.  She has an underskirt of
> green and a slightly different green for her oversleeves which are both
> being worn.  The third lady is wearing what appears to be an overdress
> of green which is lined in white where the neckline is high and
> everything matches.  Her dress is flipped up and she is wearing a white
> dress underneath which has a band of grey at the bottom which appears to
> be about halfway up her lower leg.
>
> I hope that wasn't too confusing.  I believe that the purpose to this
> style is that the decorative oversleeves could be of a very expensive
> fabric to show off some pretty stuff because you wouldn't have to buy
> much of it.  Also you would only wear them for fancy occasions or when
> you weren't going to get them dirty.
>
> Also take a look at this painting:
>
> http://cgfa.kelloggcreek.com/weyden/p-weyden7.htm
>
> Check out the lady on the far right and you will see her wearing the
> same thing again.  You can also see that her dress is lined in a
> different colored fabric because it is flipped up.  Also note the
> obvious seam lines in the bodice and the seam line indicating a separate
> skirt (i.e. not continuous princess line like a cotehardie).
>
> HTH,
>
> Diana :~>
>
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> "There are too many mediocre things in life to deal with.....Love
> shouldn't be one
>  of them."
> --Ione Skye in "Dream for an Insomniac"
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 20:36:05 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 21:55:46 -0400
From: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
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References: <199909290800_MC2-86E6-EEE4@compuserve.com> <37F65003.68DE@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

Do they have email/ web site?

Jean

Dawn wrote:

> -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
>
> Margaret Bolger wrote:
> >
> > -Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
> >
> > Apologies if you are already aware of this, but I thought it might be of
> > interest!
> >
> > At my 'Antique Costume & Textiles Fair' last week, Lindy Pickard and Dave
> > Rushworth were selling a whole load of patterns and handbooks - I think
> > they have only recently started their business.
> >
> > Their 45 patterns cover a number of periods : Viking, Medieval, 16thC,
> > English Civil War, 18thC, 19thC  -  and range from trousers, tunics,
> > doublets, hose, breeches, frock coats etc  in a wide range of sizes.
> >
> > Their handbooks include : Medieval Women, medieval men, How to make
> > Medieval Shoes, 17thC Women, 1798 French Revolutionary Uniform, 1812-15
> > French Infantry Uniform.
> > They also sell natural fibre textiles, buttons etc.
> >
> > Their business is called Petty Chapman and is based in Yorkshire UK.  Tele:
> > +44 (0) 1484.512968
> >
> > If anyone wants more information and their address, please get in touch
> > with me.  I also have a full list of the available patterns and handbooks.
> >
> > (I have no connection with them - just passing information along!)
> >
> > Margaret
> > antique costume & textiles
> > http://www.artizania.co.uk
> Lindy and Dave have been re-enactors in England for a great many years
> and are friends of mine they have done a great many periods between them
> and also have a business selling cloth, patterns, buttons etc to
> re-enactors over here.
> the patterns aren't too bad although as with all patterns they are
> generic and will not necessarily fit without altering to your own shape
>
> dawn
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 20:41:14 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 22:02:02 -0400
From: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

Bite your tongue! After a week away ( I'm an infrequent emailer ) I had 300
msgs! Most from this list. ACK!

Jean or Raella

Margo Anderson wrote:

> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> Is there a problem with the list?  After a weekend away, I have many fewer
> messages than I would normally expect, and a few of them seem to be
> responses to posts I haven't seen.
>
> Margo
>
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 20:49:04 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: prints in private collections
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
> I guess I shouldn't mention that doing this without the seller's permission
> would be a copyright violation?  The modern scans or photos of the old images
> are the property of the seller, and so are the descriptions the seller wrote.
> Furthermore, ebay is making increasingly frequent statements about how other
> people do not have the right to use their sellers' data--I think another
> statement about this was recently included in the ebay user agreement.
> 

I hate to get into this copyright thing, but we've had to
deal with it a lot lately at work (day job) on a collection
of pre-20th c. images. 
  The scans in question may be the physical property of the
owner,  but they can't be copyrighted if no "value" has been
added to a 2-D image (i.e. not changed in any way. If you get
creative with the Mona Lisa, it becomes *your* image!).
 You can take an "expired" image, make a postcard and publish
it. But if you haven't made any changes to the image, you still
can't copyright it. (I believe there was a very good website published
on
H-costume a while back with a good discussion of these very issues)

  Copyright was meant to protect the person who *created*
the work. Or in the case of "work done for hire", eg. for
a book or newspaper publisher, the copyright belongs to the
publisher. FOR A FINITE AMOUNT OF TIME. Not forever. 
(This is how Dover stays in business)
  If the image is 100 years or so old (just to be on the safe
side) and you take a photo of it, without adding any value,
just a reproduction of the image, you may own the physical
photo, but you don't own any right to the image. If you
put it up on the web, it would be almost impossible to
claim copyright or prove where someone else got it.
  The one image I looked at the site in question is an
etching. Therefore there were multiple copies to start with.
Really hard to prove the provenance of your copy.

  I'm not encouraging wholesale theft, or anything, it's
just that copyright issues are only really proved *in court*.
You sue, they sue, the lawyers win.
  This doesn't apply to 3-D objects by the way. If you
make a sculpture and someone else takes a photo of it, the
photographer owns the copyright to the photo, of course.
  In my job, we're always concerned with *not* violating
anyone's rights. We give our images away for free.
(A large famous California library which shall be nameless
owns several mid-19th c. sketches. Originals, not prints.
We were given slides of 4 of these by the person who
took the pictures. The Famous Library has insisted that
we not publish their sketches on our website. Even tho'
the artist is long dead, we have acceded to their wishes,
as "academic" courtesy. I don't think they have a *legal*
leg to stand on, but we don't want to make enemies either)

As always, make sure your rear is well-covered.
(If it's *really* serious, find a lawyer!)


Susan f.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 20:52:15 1999
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

Try a good steamer. I've found that mine in the $70 range works well. They are
often meant for draperies.

Raella

Appin1@aol.com wrote:

> -Poster: Appin1@aol.com
>
> Several topics under one roof here.
>
> First, best "thrift shop" purchase(s): A fuchsia wool jacket, a taupe skirt
> with fuchsia print, fuchsia shoes (in my size), and a silk blouse -- a whole
> business ensemble (scattered throughout the shop) for about $50 -- it was
> pretty "upscale."
>
> Yesterday, at a street fair in Baltimore, I picked up some great costume
> jewelry and a wonderous dress -- 1920s antique, I think. Completely covered
> with blue/silver/gold bugle beads in an Art Deco design (background is blue).
> Long sleeves, scoop neck, no fastenings. Absolutely awesome -- I spotted it
> across the street and RAN. It was $20. No, it doesn't fit me (yet) but it may
> be a Christmas present for a friend, unless I decide to lose enough weight to
> fit into it. It requires NO HIPS. My friend who was with me suggested that I
> fasten it to the refrigerator to inspire me.
>
> Now, a couple of questions for the pros out there.
>
> 1) What iron would you recommend for costuming? I need something that will
> handle heavy-duty fabrics, velvets, as well as delicate sheers, do steaming,
> and is heavy enough to press down damasks.  Any ideas?
>
> 2) I am also in the market for a new sewing machine. I don't need much
> quilting ability or 10 different buttonholes, but once again, something
> versatile. The one I looked at seriously was a Viking (at about $1800), but I
> really didn't need all the features. I still drooled all over it.
> Recommendations?
>
> Thanks.
> Kathleen Norvell

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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/7/1999 18:56:45 Pacific Daylight Time, 
jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us writes:

<< Jean or Raella
 
 Margo Anderson wrote:
 
 > -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
 >
 > Is there a problem with the list?  After a weekend away, I have many fewer
 > messages than I would normally expect, and a few of them seem to be
 > responses to posts I haven't seen.
 > >>

Jean, the list seems to be repaired, but there was something wrong with it 
for a day or so. There were no posts at all, save 3-4, and obviously if you 
just waded through 300, that's quite a difference.  It happened to me too, so 
Margo was just trying to find out if the list admin needed to be notified.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,  and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here, while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 22:42:35 -0400
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>



Can anyone give me info for getting a hoop skirt/ (As cheap as possible, goes
w/o saying )

Thanks

Raella

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 21:30:48 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 22:45:29 -0400
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From: "Laurie L. Kittle" <gunstonian@mindspring.com>
Subject: H-COST: Seminar Announcement - For the Gents (long)
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-Poster: "Laurie L. Kittle" <gunstonian@mindspring.com>

Gunston Hall Annual Decorative Arts Seminar
"An Elegant Sufficiency": Gentlemen's Pursuits 1700-1825
Thursday, November 18, 1999 
Gunston Hall Plantation
Mason Neck, Virginia, USA


Mark Hutter			Suitable to His Station: The Gentleman and His Taylor
John R. Barden	   		"Innocent and Necessary": Music and Dancing in the Life
of 				Robert Carter of Nomony Hall
Susan Borchardt			Gunston Hall Plantation, Deputy Director for Collections
& 				Education, "My Mansion House and Seat": George Mason's 				Gunston Hall
Lunch & Tour of Gunston Hall
Demonstration			Jay Gaynor, A Gentleman's Firearms 
Mini-Exhibit			Paraphernalia to Suit Any Gentleman  
Patrick Sheary			A Clean, Well-Lighted Place for Books
Richard C. V. Nicoll		Taking Hold of the Reins: The Eighteenth-Century
Gentleman 				and the Horse 

Registration Fee: $75.00
$60.00 for Members of the Friends of Gunston Hall Plantation 
Deadline for Registration: November 15, 1999. 

For additional information contact (703)550-9220. FAX number:
(703)550-9480. E-mail:historic@gunstonhall.org. Website:
http://gunstonhall.org

Speakers

John R. Barden is the Reference/Research Services Librarian at the Muse Law
Library, University of Richmond. The focus of both his Master's and Ph.D
degrees in history was Robert Carter of Nomony Hall. Barden has many
strings to his bow, including law and library degrees and the authorship of
numerous historical and library publications. Along the way, Barden has
worked at Colonial Williamsburg, Tryon Palace, and the North Carolina
Division of Archives and History. 

Jay Gaynor, in his job as Curator of Mechanical Arts at Colonial
Williamsburg, is responsible for the implements, tools, and other
mechanical objects in the Foundation's collections and interpretive sites.
Among the exhibits he has curated was Tools: Working Wood in 18th-Century
America, an innovative look at the influence of tools on material culture.
Formerly a co-owner of the Jamestown Tool Company, Gaynor also has held
positions at the High Point Museum and Ohio Historical Society.      

Mark Hutter is Tailor for the Clothing Trades at the Colonial Williamsburg
Foundation. During the nearly twenty years he has spent working in museums
and living history programs, Hutter has studied and reproduced 18th-century
clothing from collections in the United States and abroad. He has shared
his knowledge with the field through lectures as well as first- and
third-person interpretations.

Richard C. V. Nicoll is Director of the Coach & Livestock Department at
Colonial Williamsburg, joining the staff fifteen years ago after spending
the previous fifteen years in the carriage and horse trade. An acknowledged
expert on the subject of carriages, Nicoll also oversees the operations of
the Wheelwright and Harness Shops. 

Patrick Sheary has been the Associate Curator of the Daughters of the
American Revolution Museum for the past four years. His exhibition American
Case Furniture, 1680-1840: Selections from the DAR Museum Collection won
accolades from both the press and scholars. While obtaining a Master's
Degree in Museum Studies from The George Washington University, Sheary
catalogued furniture at Colonial Williamsburg as well as worked in the
Foundation's Furniture Conservation Laboratory. 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 21:57:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 20:11:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machines/Y2k
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-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

Speaking as a recent Y2K project manager (brought it
in under budget and ahead of schedule, not that I'm
bragging), sewing machines fall under the category of
embedded systems -- IC chips incorporated into a
larger system that does something besides computing.  

A sewing machine is not likely to have a
year-dependent date function built into its chips,
much like a coffee maker or a VCR.  That being said,
however, I must offer a caveat: many manufacturers buy
generic chips in bulk for their products, and at least
some of those chips may have built-in routines that
are not used in the product (think of the plot line of
"Small Soldiers").  

On the other hand, we've already successfully passed
through almost all of the "deadly dates" prior to New
Year's 2000, including 1 January 1999, 9 April 1999
(99/99 in the Julian date form), 1 July 1999
(beginning of many US state fiscal 2000s), 9 September
1999 (9/9/99) and 1 October 1999 (beginning of US
federal fiscal 2000).

I would suggest one precaution (it can't hurt) -- keep
the machine turned off and unplugged during the actual
rollover from 1999 to 2000.  Simple check-sum date
routines function perfectly well on one side or the
other of that particular midnight, but can't make the
transition.  Taking a 20-minute break to ring in the
new year isn't so bad.

-Valerie

---  Firefly <fire.fly@hotbot.com> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
> 
> Following up on this discussion...
> 
> I recently purchased a used Janome 8000.  It's a
> discontinued high-end model from about 5 years ago,
> so it's a good step up for me (I'm bowled over by
> all the fancy stitches and the embroidery
> capabilities).  Buing a used machine ended up being
> a good compromise between a price I could afford and
> the high-end features I wanted.
> 
> I do wonder, however, whether my "new" machine will
> survive the Y2k problem.  I wrote to Janome and
> haven't heard back from them.  I understand that the
> machine did come with a 25 year parts warranty, but
> I don't know if I can use this as the second owner. 
> The store I bought it from does give me a 3 month
> guarantee for the machine--however, that barely puts
> me into 2000 (and I understand that some problems
> may be delayed by a few months).
> 
> Any ideas on this one?
> 
> Mary
> ---
> Visit my homepage:
> http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly
> 
> 
> 
> HotBot - Search smarter.
> http://www.hotbot.com
> 


=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 22:25:07 1999
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From: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>
To: <scribes@castle.org>, "Scriptoris" <scriptoris@ansteorra.org>
Cc: <h-costume@indra.com>, "sca-garb" <sca-garb@list.uvm.edu>
Subject: H-COST: applying silver
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 22:39:44 -0500
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-Poster: "Franchesca Havas" <ches@io.com>

I have a question that is applicable to all of you, in a way, sorta. I have
a friend who needs silver metallic flat lace. Unfortunately her only
discoveries so far are way to expensive for her needed amount. So she is on
a quest for making it out of a large quantity of off white cotton flat lace.

I suggested that she weave silver thread into the lace she has, her husband
suggested spray painting (some men, they paint everything!), and I also
suggested using silver leaf.

What are your collective thoughts on this and what kind of spray paint would
she use, what kind of thread, what kind of silver leaf adhesive.....what
other better ideas do you all have short of having to purchase some of the
expensive stuff?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
Dallas, Texas
motto: Numquam scribae ridente fide


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 22:58:13 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: applying silver
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

>What are your collective thoughts on this and what kind of spray paint would
>she use, what kind of thread, what kind of silver leaf adhesive.....what
>other better ideas do you all have short of having to purchase some of the
>expensive stuff?
>
The first Renaissance court costume I ever made (can it really be 23 years
ago?)  had a forepart trimmed with $.05 a yard cotton lace which I spray
painted gold.  It looked really nice (unlike the rest of the costume).  Sort
of a matte finish, antique gold look.  Most of the gold is rubbed off now,
so your friend might want to think about using some sort of clear spray over
the metallic.  On the other hand, she probably isn't looking for decades
long durability!

Once I get this !@#$% business plan done, I'm going to take an afternoon to
put a "youthful efforts" page on my websight, including this dress.  I kept
it to teach me humility, but there are a few things on it, like that painted
lace idea, that I'm still proud of.

Margo Anderson

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 22:58:55 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 00:15:16 -0400
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I much prefer the unsheared corduroy they offer to any velveteen. 
Velveteens go gray on stage where the unsheared corduroy (also $3) stays
a rich, velvet-like color.  Found this out while experimenting with
tudor hoods and hats for "Man for all Seasons" in the early '80's.  I
also love cotton velvet but the prices seem to be the same as regular
velvet now-a-days.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I should probably add that I never tried to wash or dry clean the costume
with the spray painted lace.  

Margo


"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 23:09:17 1999
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From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: hoop skirt
References: <006701bf0f7b$c3b86960$baa11f18@dsc.columbus.rr.com> <37FD5A05.3BFF9464@pcs.k12.mi.us>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

For really cheap, you have to make your own.  My first one was made from
electricians "fish" tape hung on twill tapes with loops over the waist
band for adjustments.  each hoop was covered in x-wide bias tape, so I
could pin to it for positioning, then sew in place.  I didn't know of a
source for steel tape at the time.  Only proble was fastening the ends
together.  I used shrink tubing, but it's not the best answer.  Makes a
very sturdy, but non- bendable hoop.  Next one was bought from Amazon
Vinegar and Pickleing co. and the third from alteryears.  I also picked
up a bridal petticoat from J.C. Penneys for occasions when a hoop was
impossible (plane flights, 1840's dresses, etc.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 23:30:29 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: cocoon coat
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>- -Poster: lilinah@grin.net
>
>>-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com
>>I am looking for a cocoon coat pattern made by Folkwear.  Folkwear has
>>discontinued it so it cannot be purchased through them.  Does anyone have
one
>>they wouldn't mind selling or renting?  Does anyone know where I might be
>>able to get my hands on the pattern for sale from a vendor?
>
>The Cocoon coat has not been discontinued, as it has never been released by
>Folkwear; it is in process of publication and will be released "reeeeel
>sooooon now".
>
>Visit:
>http://www.larkbooks.com/home.nav/fw/drawingboard.html
>for updates on the release date of the cocoon coat pattern.
>
>I, too, am looking forward to being able to buy it.

I believe she may be referring to the original pattern put out by Folkwear,
the "Poiret Cocoon Coat", which was one of the Metropolitan Museum
patterns.  The Met patterns are not being reprinted by Lark because of
licensing issues with the museum.

These also included the Algerian Suit and the Russian Cossack.

Sandy

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Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 00:43:32 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business
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-Poster: Kijee@aol.com

    Good luck on this exiting endeavor! Here's my suggestion:

    "In a Timely Fashion"
    
        Kij Greenwood
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 23:35:26 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.63d00d1a.252ed074@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 22:51:13 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

Oooh, that's a good one!

Liadain


> 
> -Poster: Kijee@aol.com
> 
>     Good luck on this exiting endeavor! Here's my suggestion:
> 
>     "In a Timely Fashion"
>     
>         Kij Greenwood
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 23:37:48 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 23:49:00 -0500
From: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
X-EXP32-SerialNo: 00102459
Subject: H-COST: Copyrights
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-Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>

Margo asks:
> Here's a hypothetical question:  what if I had permission from an image's
> owner to publish said image, say, a photograph, and put it on my website.
> If the person who gave me the permission later sells the photograph,
> does the new owner have the right to make me take it off the site?

It depends!  Under the facts as you have given them, probably not.

"Copyright" is a funny thing.  You can slice the whole copyright to
something into infinitely small pieces (the right to adapt into a movie,
the right to adapt into a song, the right to adapt into paint-by-number,
the right of first publication, the right to print on t-shirts, the right
to print on bedlinens, the right of publication in Czech-speaking
countries only, the right to translate into Czech, etc., etc.)

The owner of the right to publish has given you a tiny part of that right
(the right to publish on your website).  Because they have given that
right to you, they cannot now give it to someone else.  So, the subsequent
owner of the rights to the image doesn't own the right to give *you*
permission (on not) to post on *your* website.  That means he or she can't
make you take it down.

But, in many cases, licenses to publish or reprint have limitations of one
kind or another on them.  In many cases, a license to post something on a
website will be limited in term.  So, if you had permission to post for
one year, the owner of the image sold it, and the year ended, you would
have to get permission to continue posting from the new owner-- who could
then refuse permission.  And you would be forced to take it down.

The situation gets a little strange in the case of a really old, public
domain image.  Now, there is no copyright for the owner to give you a
piece of-- only a right to let you look at and rephotograph or scan or
whatever, the image.  This is a "real property" right, not an 
"intellectual property" right.  It is as if someone let you in their yard 
to take a picture of their prize-winning roses.  In that situation, only 
you would own the copyright to the image you posted.  If the person let 
you look at the picture on the understanding that you wouldn't scan it and 
put it on your website and you did it anyway, you might have a breach of
contract, but you would not have violated the copyright.  Depending on the
details of whatever you agreed, you might have to take it down anyway.

But, back to the original question-- assuming that the original owner gave
you permission to scan the image, a subsequent owner wouldn't be able to
force you to take it down.

I hope this is a little clearer, at least in general terms!
Unfortunately, the way that these situations work out is highly dependant
on the particular facts at hand.

--Katharine Whisler


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct  7 23:54:08 1999
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From: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
X-EXP32-SerialNo: 00102459
Subject: H-COST: Chinese headscarves for men?
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-Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>

Recently, the man in my life asked me to make him an early (Tang
Dynasty, say) costume to wear to an SCA event.  After looking at a bunch
of art books, I think I have it covered, but there is one thing that still
really mystifies me.

Apparently, many of these men are wearing what looks like a hat but is
actually a black scarf tied over a topknot.  According to "5000 Years of
Chinese Costumes," the scarf has "ears" or extensions at the corners to
make it easier to tie.  My problem is that I can't quite figure out how
these things should be tied!  I think they wrap around with adjacent
corners tied in back of the head, and it looks like the other two corners
tie on top of the head in front of the topknot, but I'm not quite sure how
they wrap around before tying.

If anyone knows what I am talking about and has any ideas about this, I'd
sure appreciate it if you would share them.

Thanks,
Katharine Whisler

P.S. The other works I have consulted are:
Chinese Dress, by Wilson
The Treasures of the World: The Emperors of China
The Horizon Book of the Arts of China
China: A History in Art


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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 14:32:10 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Obscure machine: "Domestic" brand "Gaiety" model
In-Reply-To: <37FAA939.D117C56F@enteract.com>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Has anyone ever heard of this machine ("Gaiety" is a decal on the
>machine, "Domestic" is a metal logo)?  It's a dumpster-dive rescuee, and
>seems to be stuck - stitch selector on a fancy stitch, roto thingie
>won't turn :-(  It looks about the same vintage as my Singer 403 or
>maybe later - but still all-metal.  Anyone out there ever heard of it,
>or have any clues on what's wrong with it?

One of my machines is a "Damascus Electric".  Add this name to the question.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 00:15:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 22:36:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business...some of my suggestions
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-Poster: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>


> >>Backward Glances
> >>( Fine clothing from our past)
> 

Um, I'll give it a shot--although I like the one
above, too.

Clothing Re: Past
Fine Patterns for the Historical Sewer.

(I must be hungry. . .)

Jonna


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 00:17:44 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Books
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 23:39:44 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I was bad tonight, I let my DH talk me into going to Borders.

I made it out of there with only one book, Dangerous Beauty, and the
"Shakespeare Cats' calendar.  Have you seen this?  It is sooooooo cute!

The book I got is called 'Bruges and the Renaissance - Memling to Porobus'.

Beautiful color pictures! Mostly triptychs.  I have already found several
short sleeved plain overdresses/cotehardies (?) with beautiful brocade
sleeves coming out from under the dress sleeves and not attached at the
shoulder. I have not really had that much time to look at the book, I will
keep you posted.  

I guess that it is about time I learned how to us my mother's scanner.

I am very ignorant about art, but learn a little more everyday.  I am bound
and determined to read all these art books I have, after I read all of the
costume books.  Anyway, what is a triptych?  Three panels?  It seems to me
that they all center around a biblical event, so the center characters
could be said to be allegorical, but to either side seems to be regular
people (patrons?) praying or portraying a lesser character of the event. 
Am I close?

There are some where there is a herd of people praying!  I mean it, upwards
of 20 people!

Maybe someone out there can enlighten me.

There were two other books that I found that someone may be interested in;

Northern Renaissance Art - 1350 to 1575 - James Snyder - ISBN 0-8109-1081-0
	Lots of pictures, kind of small, not so many in color, but plenty of
obscure artists.  Focus on Germany.

>From Van Eyck to Bruegel - Metropolitan Museum of Art - ISBN 0-8109-6528-3
	Just what it says.

Kathlene
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Susan Fatemi wrote:

> -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

> I hate to get into this copyright thing, but we've had to
> deal with it a lot lately at work (day job) on a collection
> of pre-20th c. images.

For one thing, the post mentioned also copying the detailed text describing the
images; which in the ebay listings I looked at, seemed to have been written by the
seller.


>
>   The scans in question may be the physical property of the
> owner,  but they can't be copyrighted if no "value" has been
> added to a 2-D image (i.e. not changed in any way. If you get
> creative with the Mona Lisa, it becomes *your* image!).
>  You can take an "expired" image, make a postcard and publish
> it. But if you haven't made any changes to the image, you still
> can't copyright it. (I believe there was a very good website published
> on
> H-costume a while back with a good discussion of these very issues)

For another thing  . . . in my experience scans of images seldom look exactly like,
or as good as, the original.  There are a great many changes that can be made,
including removing moire patterns (problems caused by rescreening), balancing
colors or gray tones, sharpening, redrawing lines, cropping edges, restoring
blurred or damaged or dirty areas of an old image, changing or adding backgrounds,
moving parts of the picture around; and many other potential changes.  Some changes
can be made either to the whole image or, by "masking off" (drawing a line closely
around) portions of  it and only altering those portions.  It can easily take a
couple of hours to do a relatively simple job of restoring an old image, and
probably no two restorers would do it exactly the same way.  There's a lot of other
stuff you can do too, in terms of special effects (like the "impressionist" filter
in my Corel Photopaint).

According to the  lawyer I consulted, changes to images are copyrightable.  (And in
fact, there are graphic artists who, if you hire them to work on your scans,  want
to claim copyright to the changes; so you should explicitly cover ownership of
rights in your contracts.) While I'm not saying everybody who posts images on the
net has changed or restored them, it's probably impossible for someone who has not
seen the original image to tell whether this has been done.

Furthermore, I don't know of any part of the copyright law that covers 2-Dness.  As
far as I know, photos of paintings are as copyrightable as photos of sculptures or
buildings or people.  If two different photographers take pictures of a painting,
each photographer owns the copyright to his/her own picture (though not to the
original painting).  A scan is essentially a photo.


>
>
>   Copyright was meant to protect the person who *created*
> the work. Or in the case of "work done for hire", eg. for
> a book or newspaper publisher, the copyright belongs to the
> publisher. FOR A FINITE AMOUNT OF TIME. Not forever.
> (This is how Dover stays in business)

Not exactly. Copyright was meant to protect the person who has *done creative
work*.  Copyright covers derivative works, such as translations, anthologies, and
other works created using the original work, as well as the original work itself.
This includes derivative works made from works in the public domain.

>
>   If the image is 100 years or so old (just to be on the safe
> side) and you take a photo of it, without adding any value,
> just a reproduction of the image, you may own the physical
> photo, but you don't own any right to the image.

Actually, as I understand it, you do own the rights to a photo you have taken
yourself, no matter what it is of. Unless of course you have sold or otherwise
transferred those rights.  In some cases you may need someone else's permission to
create/take the photo to begin with, or to publish it.

> If you
> put it up on the web, it would be almost impossible to
> claim copyright or prove where someone else got it.

First, I'd recommend that anyone who is at all interested in protecting their
copyrights to register them before publishing their materials on the web or
anywhere else.  Although US law protects works from the time of creation,
registration is a big help if there is any legal difficulty later on.

Second, I have seen a number of web postings (text and pictures) from several
published books.  Although I was not the publisher or author of these books, I was
easily able to recognize the  sources of the postings.

Third, the fact that someone might not notice you are violating their copyright
does not make such violation any more legal or ethical.


>
>   The one image I looked at the site in question is an
> etching. Therefore there were multiple copies to start with.
> Really hard to prove the provenance of your copy.

Unless it was restored or edited in some way.  I've spent many hours (in fact, many
months)  editing line drawings from printed publications.  I can certainly tell the
difference between the ones I edited and the originals--otherwise I would not have
bothered.


>
>
>   I'm not encouraging wholesale theft, or anything, it's
> just that copyright issues are only really proved *in court*.
> You sue, they sue, the lawyers win.

This is true of most legal issues. But it's a good reason to be careful about
violating other peoples' copyrights.  As I've said before--why not just ask people
if it's OK to use their iamges, text, whatever?

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
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http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 00:27:00 1999
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Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 01:40:20 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: cocoon coat
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

In a message dated 10/7/99 9:39:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
costumrs@radiks.net writes:

<< 
 I believe she may be referring to the original pattern put out by Folkwear,
 the "Poiret Cocoon Coat", which was one of the Metropolitan Museum
 patterns.  The Met patterns are not being reprinted by Lark because of
 licensing issues with the museum.
 
 These also included the Algerian Suit and the Russian Cossack.
 
 Sandy
  >>

Yes, I am referring to the "Poiret Cocoon Coat".
I am sorry to hear that Lark will not be reproducing it.  I am still on the 
hunt.  Anybody out there that can help?

Hopefully,
Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 00:46:23 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: The fall at the bottom of a Sari (was "Sari
  cotton thing")
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>3. Kayta described a stiffener that makes the pleats fall correctly (it's
>not clear whether this is at the waist or hem),

>5. I've described (not well) a piece that runs the entire length of the hem
>giving weight and proper hang to the lighter, floaty saris.  It stops as the
>sari begins to move upward forming the shoulder cover & hanging piece w/ the
>pallou (the nifty woven design at the end).

Kayta here.  The stiffener is like a facing inside the hem portion, not on
the palu portion.  They sell these, ready to apply, in many colours at sari
stores.  They like to shelve them rolled up, by colour.

BTW, I see palu instead of pallou at the stores I frequent.  (That's the
fancy bit thrown over the shoulder.)  But I see both sari and saree used,
depending on the store.

>#4  I just don't believe anyone would add 3-4" of cheap, ugly cotton to the
>bottom of a nice sari, sorry.

Not cheap ugly cotton, carefully colour matched cotton, and it's on the
inside. 

Younger women often
>secure the CF pleats to the petticoat with a safety pin on the inside. Older
>ladies never do.

Some saris come sewn this way.  It's a recent thing.  Also, you pin the
palu to your bra strap on the back side of the shoulder, to prevent slippage.

>To wrap up (pun intended), sounds like there's lots of ways to wear 'em.

There really are.  Look inside the Folkwear pattern which includes the
choli and they say they're giving you two of the many ways to drape a sari.
 (I think that's where I saw it.)


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>




> Margo asks:
> > Here's a hypothetical question:  what if I had permission from an image's
> > owner to publish said image, say, a photograph, and put it on my website.
> > If the person who gave me the permission later sells the photograph,
> > does the new owner have the right to make me take it off the site?
>
> It depends!  Under the facts as you have given them, probably not.
>
> "Copyright" is a funny thing.  You can slice the whole copyright to
> something into infinitely small pieces (the right to adapt into a movie,
> the right to adapt into a song, the right to adapt into paint-by-number,
> the right of first publication, the right to print on t-shirts, the right
> to print on bedlinens, the right of publication in Czech-speaking
> countries only, the right to translate into Czech, etc., etc.)



>
>
> The owner of the right to publish has given you a tiny part of that right
> (the right to publish on your website).  Because they have given that
> right to you, they cannot now give it to someone else.

Actually, you can give someone "nonexclusive" rights to publish.  I think this
is the legal default, rather than exclusive rights, but it's safer to use the
word.  So you can tell as many people as you want that they have the
"nonexclusive" right to post your picture (or whatever) on their web sites. You
can also transfer "one-time" rights.  This is common with photos published in
magazines.  You can sell "one-time rights" for the same photo to as many
magazines as you wish.  I've seen one-time rights used sometimes with magazine
articles and stories.  But with articles  it is more usual to sell "first
serial rights" to one magazine (since this is a guarantee of first publication
in that media, you can only do it once) and "second serial rights" to as many
other magazines as you wish (there is no such thing as "third serial rights").
You can also, given the right contract negotiation, sell the same book to more
than one publisher.  This is most common if different editions are possible
(and saleable), but one publisher does not want to produce them all.  For
example one publisher only wants to publish in hardcover format, and the other
only wants to publish in softcover.

Basically, you want to be very specific about which parts of the copyright you
are transferring, transfer only the ones that really _need_ to be transferred
to that publisher or person,  and reserve the others for your own future use.


> So, the subsequent
> owner of the rights to the image doesn't own the right to give *you*
> permission (on not) to post on *your* website.  That means he or she can't
> make you take it down.

It depends on whether they actually _own_ the rights to the image, or were only
permitted by the owner to _use_ the image.  For example, suppose you create an
image, and you grant someone the nonexclusive right to post it on their web
site.  In that case, the web site poster has no right to either allow or forbid
anyone else to post the image.   If asked, they should refer the asker to you,
the actual owner of the rights.

On the other hand, suppose you sell "all rights" to the image to the person
with the web site.  In that case, they _are_ now the copyright owner, just as
if they had created the image.  They can grant or deny all further use of it as
they wish.  Or, in a more limited transfer, you could sell this person "all
rights to post on web sites."  In that case they would have control over future
web site posts, but you could still publish the image in other media (such as
books and magazines).

>
> But, in many cases, licenses to publish or reprint have limitations of one
> kind or another on them.  In many cases, a license to post something on a
> website will be limited in term.  So, if you had permission to post for
> one year, the owner of the image sold it, and the year ended, you would
> have to get permission to continue posting from the new owner-- who could
> then refuse permission.  And you would be forced to take it down.

Such limitations are a very good idea.  For example, if a magazine buys "first
serial rights" to your article, you should make sure your contract with them
gives these rights back to you if the magazine does not publish the article
within a specified period of time.  Otherwise, the magazine can control those
rights indefinitely (and by extension, your second serial rights, because the
first rights were never used) without ever publishing (if they only pay on
publication, without ever paying you).

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 01:38:18 1999
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Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 02:00:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
In-Reply-To: <199910080531.XAA20541@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 7 Oct 1999, K & J Hopkins wrote:

> The book I got is called 'Bruges and the Renaissance - Memling to Porobus'.

Sounds nice. How much is Borders asking for this?

> I am very ignorant about art, but learn a little more everyday.  I am bound
> and determined to read all these art books I have, after I read all of the
> costume books.  Anyway, what is a triptych?  Three panels?  It seems to me
> that they all center around a biblical event, so the center characters
> could be said to be allegorical, but to either side seems to be regular
> people (patrons?) praying or portraying a lesser character of the event. 
> Am I close?

Very close. A triptych is a three-panel painting; typically the outer
panels are half the size of the main panel, and hinged to it so that they
can close over the center panel. Then something decorative -- often
another painting -- is put on the backs of the wings, so that when
they come together they look nice.

A diptych is a two-panel painting, also typically hinged.

Most triptychs I've seen have a biblical event or a religious story (e.g. 
something from a saint's life) in the middle. The subjects of the wings
varies. What you describe is common -- patrons would pay to have
themselves painted into the paintings, and often that meant on the wings
(though sometimes you find the patrons in the center panel, praying amid
the sheep and cows at the Nativity or something). Often the wings show
only saints, perhaps the patron saints of the patrons, or saints related
to the center image, or the namesake saints of a church or religious order
that commissioned the painting. I have also seen triptychs in which the
wings are other parts of a story -- e.g. scenes from the life of Mary,
with the center panel being the Annunciation. I'm sure there are some
secular triptychs out there as well, but I can't think of any offhand. 

I have seen secular diptychs -- two portraits facing each other. More
often, though, one panel of the diptych is a Biblical scene (or something
like a portrait of Madonna and Child) and the other side is a portrait of
the patron, looking adoringly at the Biblical panel. 

> There are some where there is a herd of people praying!  I mean it, upwards
> of 20 people!

I've seen whole families depicted, or members of a religious order or
guild or other organization.

If you have questions on specific paintings, feel free to email me. I
suspect I have just about every painting in that book already in my own
library. (And for those who remember me complaining about my books being
boxed from my recent move -- I have a friend coming this weekend to help
me unpack them, hurrah!) What I don't have in books, I probably have in
slides -- I took over 300 slides of costume details in medieval art while
I was in Flanders, mostly in Bruges. Many of them are probably not
available in books. I wish I had taken more. Now I'm trying to pick up
images of Flemish art that is scattered elsewhere in the world. Spain is
full of Flemish art, and all I've done is Madrid...

--Robin


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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 09:40:15 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Patterns etc
References: <199909290800_MC2-86E6-EEE4@compuserve.com> <37F65003.68DE@virgin.net> <37FD4F10.9D674ED2@pcs.k12.mi.us>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Jean Zerby wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
> 
> Do they have email/ web site?
> 
> Jean
> 
> Dawn wrote:
> 
> > -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> >
> > Margaret Bolger wrote:
> > >
> > > -Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
> > >
> > > Apologies if you are already aware of this, but I thought it might be of
> > > interest!
> > >
> > > At my 'Antique Costume & Textiles Fair' last week, Lindy Pickard and Dave
> > > Rushworth were selling a whole load of patterns and handbooks - I think
> > > they have only recently started their business.
> > >
> > > Their 45 patterns cover a number of periods : Viking, Medieval, 16thC,
> > > English Civil War, 18thC, 19thC  -  and range from trousers, tunics,
> > > doublets, hose, breeches, frock coats etc  in a wide range of sizes.
> > >
> > > Their handbooks include : Medieval Women, medieval men, How to make
> > > Medieval Shoes, 17thC Women, 1798 French Revolutionary Uniform, 1812-15
> > > French Infantry Uniform.
> > > They also sell natural fibre textiles, buttons etc.
> > >
> > > Their business is called Petty Chapman and is based in Yorkshire UK.  Tele:
> > > +44 (0) 1484.512968
> > >
> > > If anyone wants more information and their address, please get in touch
> > > with me.  I also have a full list of the available patterns and handbooks.
> > >
> > > (I have no connection with them - just passing information along!)
> > >
> > > Margaret
> > > antique costume & textiles
> > > http://www.artizania.co.uk
> > Lindy and Dave have been re-enactors in England for a great many years
> > and are friends of mine they have done a great many periods between them
> > and also have a business selling cloth, patterns, buttons etc to
> > re-enactors over here.
> > the patterns aren't too bad although as with all patterns they are
> > generic and will not necessarily fit without altering to your own shape
> >
> > dawn
> >
> 
Not that I know of, they don't do computer stuff.

Dawn


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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Crystal Pleated Gauze?
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <3.0.5.32.19991004221718.008ac380@postoffice.worldnet.att.net
>, Kimberly Gilbert <kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net> writes
>
>
>Can anyone tell me what crystal pleated gauze is?  The new
>Simplicity Elizabethan pattern calls for it for the ruff,
>but I have no idea what it is (or where to obtain it).  Any
>help would be appreciated.
>
>Kimberly

I've met crystal organza - I had it for my wedding veil.  It wouldn't be
at all period, but it does have that very transparent, shiny look some
of the painters capture.  It's made from some kind of synthetic that
seems to have been engineered to have a high refractive index(?
scientists?) in each fibre, so it really glistens like crystal.  I can
imagine it looking fantastic on a carnival or masquerade costume, but if
it's for re-enactment you probably just want a suitable weight linen or
cotton.
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 04:46:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:56:31 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <199910062030.NAA08294@apollo.directcon.net>, Margo Anderson
<margo@directcon.net> writes
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>I have a question about patterns:  Do people really like those fold out
>instructions sheets that come with most patterns?
>
>The instruction sheets are good in that one can see a number of steps at
>once, but I always seem to misplace them, especially with a complex pattern
>with multiple sheets.  
>
>Would some other format, such as an 8 1/2" x 11" booklet, be preferable?  
>
>Margo
>
Absolutely, a booklet would be great.  Could you afford to do all the
instructions for each individual pattern separately?  I always end up
with the sheets the wrong way round, and I'm half way through "View 2"
when I think I'm doing "View 4"

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From: "Ella Lynoure Rajamaki" <lynoure@tuug.org>
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-Poster: "Ella Lynoure Rajamaki" <lynoure@tuug.org>

On 7 Oct 99, at 7:59, Margo Anderson wrote:

> Even Burda gave up and started including them a few
> years ago.  I know when I was working in a fabric store it was like pulling
> teeth to get people to use Burda because they would have to add them. 

As far as I know they do not do that here in Finland yet. I really like 
getting to choose myself how wide seam allowances I use and I 
hate the patterns that have seam allowances in them and no seam 
lines marked. 



--
-----------------------------*        lynoure@tuug.org      *
Ella Lynoure Rajamaki--------* http://www.tuug.org/~lynoure *
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Help w/Greenberg & Hammer
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

Hi Folks,

I am trying to find the Greenberg sp? & Hammer web address.  Could someone 
help?

Thank You

Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 06:39:51 1999
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From: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: H-COST: RE: Copyrights
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-Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>

Fran Grimble commented on my post:
>
>> The owner of the right to publish has given you a tiny part of that
>> right (the right to publish on your website).  Because they have given
>> that right to you, they cannot now give it to someone else.
>
>Actually, you can give someone "nonexclusive" rights to publish.  I think
>this is the legal default, rather than exclusive rights, but it's safer
>to use the

Fran,
I apologize if I have confused you with my simplification.  It is 
irrelevant whether the person in the hypo was given an exclusive or 
non-exclusive right to publish something on a website. The transfer of a 
right, whether exclusive or non-exclusive, is still a transfer of a 
right.  Simple as that.  Obviously, you can transfer a right so that it 
comes back to you under certain conditions, but it is still the transfer 
of a right.  For example, if you give someone a non-exclusive right to 
publish something on their website, you can't give someone else the 
exclusive right to do so.

You might find it simpler if you think of it like this: imagine that you 
want to use your copyright to prevent *anyone* from reading the work you 
created, which you attempt to do by refusing to give anyone the right to 
publish it.  This will not do any good if prior to your decision you 
granted even a non-exclusive right to Doubleday to print just one copy of 
it.  They can print that one copy and lend it to all their friends, and 
the next thing you know, several people have read your work!  For that 
matter, if you sold all the rights that you still have to someone else who 
didn't ever want the work reprinted either, they still can't "take back" 
the right to print that one copy that you already gave away/sold.  (We'll 
leave assignment of rights terminations out of it, okay!) It's very like 
real property.  If you sell someone the couch out of your living room, and 
two days later you sell "all my living room furniture" to someone else, 
they don't get to go to the first person's house and take the couch!  It's 
theirs now.  A rights transfer is a rights transfer.

As much as I enjoy discussing these issues, I doubt the rest of the list 
wants to read the long course in copyright law.  However, I would welcome 
further discussion of these issues off-list.

--Katharine Whisler

P.S.  For those who *would* like more info on copyright law, I strongly 
recommend "The Copyright Book" by Stephen Fishman, published by Nolo Press.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 06:57:23 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Crystal Pleated Gauze?
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 07:56:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Silk organza (maybe by a different name) would have been
period for Elizabethan times, I believe.  Although cotton or
linen can be very spun and woven into very transparent
fabrics too.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Jean Waddie
> Sent: Friday, October 08, 1999 4:24 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Crystal Pleated Gauze?
>
>
>
> -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
> In message
> <3.0.5.32.19991004221718.008ac380@postoffice.worldnet.att.net
> >, Kimberly Gilbert <kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net> writes
> >
> >
> >Can anyone tell me what crystal pleated gauze is?  The new
> >Simplicity Elizabethan pattern calls for it for the ruff,
> >but I have no idea what it is (or where to obtain it).  Any
> >help would be appreciated.
> >
> >Kimberly
>
> I've met crystal organza - I had it for my wedding veil.  It
> wouldn't be
> at all period, but it does have that very transparent, shiny look some
> of the painters capture.  It's made from some kind of synthetic that
> seems to have been engineered to have a high refractive index(?
> scientists?) in each fibre, so it really glistens like crystal.  I can
> imagine it looking fantastic on a carnival or masquerade
> costume, but if
> it's for re-enactment you probably just want a suitable
> weight linen or
> cotton.
> --
> Jean Waddie
>


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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Found it
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 08:09:21 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

I didn't write that one.  I believe those "fram airfilter"
headresses were real life headgear, even though van der
Weyden used them in two religious paintings paintings.  I
disagree with those people who think its purely allegorical.
Someone dismissed the 1570 de Heere travelogue watercolor of
the same thing on an Irish woman.  Don't know why.   I think
its pretty clear its a third example of the same style
"hat."  Turbans of all sorts were very common among women in
the low countries and Ireland then (1400's-1500's), though
they tended to be flatter and wider than those we associate
with the Middle East.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Michelle
> Sent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 3:06 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Found it
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
> Hope wrote:
> >> http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th
> >> So we have two hats of this type. What does that prove?  Absolutely
> >> nothing!
> Cythia wrote:
> >*laugh*  I agree.  Since both ladies are in the religious
> categories, I
> >would still hesitate to use them for a regular ol' person.
> I *would* use
> >it for a masque or something like that.  :)
> I am writing:
>   I wonder if it is something that is pulled from biblical.
> Both portraits
> (I think) have to do with Christ. It could be that the artist
> used mostly
> the modern dresses, from his time, and biblicized it with the
> wrap style
> headwear from what historical representation he had access to.
> Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 07:13:02 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Books
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 06:35:10 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

> > The book I got is called 'Bruges and the Renaissance - Memling to
Porobus'.
> 
> Sounds nice. How much is Borders asking for this?

10% off $54.00 or so.


>What you describe is common -- patrons would pay to have
> themselves painted into the paintings, and often that meant on the wings
> (though sometimes you find the patrons in the center panel, praying amid
> the sheep and cows at the Nativity or something). 

I have found two that have what looks like patrons portraying Mary
Magdalene at the base of the cross in crucifixion scenes.  It is
interesting how the patrons have such a distinctive look on their faces, I
guess because it was a real face and not something out of the artist's
imagination.

> If you have questions on specific paintings, feel free to email me. I
> suspect I have just about every painting in that book already in my own
> library. (And for those who remember me complaining about my books being
> boxed from my recent move -- I have a friend coming this weekend to help
> me unpack them, hurrah!) What I don't have in books, I probably have in
> slides -- I took over 300 slides of costume details in medieval art while
> I was in Flanders, mostly in Bruges. Many of them are probably not
> available in books. I wish I had taken more. Now I'm trying to pick up
> images of Flemish art that is scattered elsewhere in the world. Spain is
> full of Flemish art, and all I've done is Madrid...
> 
> --Robin

Well, for those of us unlucky enough not to live close enough to Robin (I
don't know why it took so long to get someone to help unpack, I would have
moved in!), this book might be a good resource.

I am putting Bruges on my list for cities to visit in the future.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 08:18:55 1999
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Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 08:31:54 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: hoop skirt
In-Reply-To: <37FD7232.89468347@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Ya know, they still sell the wide twill tape that is in two strips with a
smaller strip perpendicular to each that you could use too. I went to the
hardware store once to get a 2 hours before the event cord to make a hoop
skirt for a niece and it worked. The cord is clear laytex covered steel
rope. I think the twill is for the wooden venitian blinds but i could be
wrong. :)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Fri, 8 Oct 1999, Janice Dallas wrote:

> Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 00:25:22 -0400
> From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Re: hoop skirt
> 
> 
> -Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
> 
> For really cheap, you have to make your own.  My first one was made from
> electricians "fish" tape hung on twill tapes with loops over the waist
> band for adjustments.  each hoop was covered in x-wide bias tape, so I
> could pin to it for positioning, then sew in place.  I didn't know of a
> source for steel tape at the time.  Only proble was fastening the ends
> together.  I used shrink tubing, but it's not the best answer.  Makes a
> very sturdy, but non- bendable hoop.  Next one was bought from Amazon
> Vinegar and Pickleing co. and the third from alteryears.  I also picked
> up a bridal petticoat from J.C. Penneys for occasions when a hoop was
> impossible (plane flights, 1840's dresses, etc.
> -- 
> Janice Dallas
> JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
> "Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
> 

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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

-Poster: Kijee@aol.com
>
>     "In a Timely Fashion"

Or just Timely Fashion... and call it "TF" for short when we're raving
about them on the list!! <wink>

Kat
"gosh, you really should have tried the TF pattern first... they're
really the best ones out there!"
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 08:50:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 09:04:24 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: applying silver
In-Reply-To: <199910080410.VAA12794@apollo.directcon.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Thanks and keep them coming! I will be sending her a the emails tonight so
that she can decided what she will do. She is going to use the trim on a
costume for a child. 

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 7 Oct 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 21:10:12 -0700
> From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: applying silver
> 
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> >What are your collective thoughts on this and what kind of spray paint would
> >she use, what kind of thread, what kind of silver leaf adhesive.....what
> >other better ideas do you all have short of having to purchase some of the
> >expensive stuff?
> >
> The first Renaissance court costume I ever made (can it really be 23 years
> ago?)  had a forepart trimmed with $.05 a yard cotton lace which I spray
> painted gold.  It looked really nice (unlike the rest of the costume).  Sort
> of a matte finish, antique gold look.  Most of the gold is rubbed off now,
> so your friend might want to think about using some sort of clear spray over
> the metallic.  On the other hand, she probably isn't looking for decades
> long durability!
> 
> Once I get this !@#$% business plan done, I'm going to take an afternoon to
> put a "youthful efforts" page on my websight, including this dress.  I kept
> it to teach me humility, but there are a few things on it, like that painted
> lace idea, that I'm still proud of.
> 
> Margo Anderson
> 
> "One Tough Costumer"
> http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
> 
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 09:02:42 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 09:24:41 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Copyrights
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>>
>> Here's a hypothetical question:  what if I had permission from an image's
>> owner to publish said image, say, a photograph, and put it on my website.
>> If the person who gave me the permission later sells the photograph,
>> does the new owner have the right to make me take it off the site?
>
>It depends!  Under the facts as you have given them, probably not.

This does not match my understanding of current copyright law. 

If the copyright owner gives you permission to do something, and then later
tells you "no, I don't want you to do that", you legally must stop whatever
you
are doing with it.  Period.  Certainly there are variations and loopholes 
to try and slip through, but essentially they have loaned you their property
(usually for a specific purpose), but it's still their property.

This is especially true when it comes to publication and distribution of their
property, as through a web site.  I have in my possession several really good
and informative articles and photographs that I would love to upload to my 
clothing and shoe websites, but I can not legally do so without the permission
of the copyright owner, and in several of these cases that permission has
been 
explicitly withheld (usually from reasons of it could interfere with their 
publication on a particular topic - a real concern in Academe; or simply
because
they don't want to distribute it in that fashion.  Why isn't really germaine,
they could be withheld because the moon was in the wrong house, and I'd
have to
accept it).

Marc

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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 10:03:40 -0500
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From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: business name
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

I really like
Backward Glances
too, and just think of the lovely lady glancing over her shoulder at you on 
every pattern envelope...

Kim
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Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:14:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: Found it
In-Reply-To: <000301bf1187$943f5960$f10bfdd0@sharp-9070->
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Fri, 8 Oct 1999, Hope H. Dunlap wrote:

> I didn't write that one.  I believe those "fram airfilter"  headresses
> were real life headgear, even though van der Weyden used them in two
> religious paintings paintings.  I disagree with those people who think
> its purely allegorical.  Someone dismissed the 1570 de Heere travelogue
> watercolor of the same thing on an Irish woman.  Don't know why.

Just a guess, but maybe because it's from well over 100 years later and a
different country? I would be leery of linking two isolated hats over that
duration of time unless there was a mostly unbroken chain of similar
examples during the intervening years.

No opinion from me on the realism of the air-filter hat, not yet, but I am
very leery of taking any hat from Rogier van der Weyden at face value if
he used it on Magdalen. Rogier routinely used certain parts of the costume
to telegraph "foreign," "sainted," or "historical," and the hat was
probably his favorite device for this (and Magdalen was routinely the
favorite saint used by Flemish artists to be experimental in costume). 
Lacking evidence from other artworks *of his same time period* --
preferably Franco-Flemish, preferably in another medium -- I would not
automatically accept any Rogier Magdalen hat as realistic. 

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 10:38:30 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 08:50:16 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> > its purely allegorical.  Someone dismissed the 1570 de Heere travelogue
> > watercolor of the same thing on an Irish woman.  Don't know why.
>
> Just a guess, but maybe because it's from well over 100 years later and a
> different country? I would be leery of linking two isolated hats over that
> duration of time unless there was a mostly unbroken chain of similar
> examples during the intervening years.

Twas I who dismissed it.  I did specify my reasons.  I try not to dismiss out
of hand, honest.  But now I have a picture.  The above is one of the reasons I
stated but the main reason for me is that deHeere's watercolor doesn't look
like the same hat *to me*.  It resembles the same shape to a point but then
all resemblance stops.  If we are talking about the same Lucas de Heere lady
(there aren't too many, she is in red and yellow) it is at
http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Laterirl.htm  There are ear flaps for one thing.
And while there is obviously some linen wrapped, it isn't coiled from the
center out.  It is wrapped around a red hat of two levels, kind of plateaued
with some kind of tie holding the whole thing together.  To me, it looks
nothing like the Magdalen hat.

Assuming that this *is* the same picture by de Heere that was being
discussed.  If not, then nevermind.  ;->

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 10:43:19 1999
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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: applying silver
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:41:43 -0500
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


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Thanks and keep them coming! I will be sending her a the emails tonight so
that she can decided what she will do. She is going to use the trim on a
costume for a child. 

[Carrie Veenstra]  Depending on the openness of the lace,  she could brush 
on a metallic fabric paint, (the type that's supposed to be soft when finished - 
not dimentional, shiny or 'wet look')  probably with a paper towel in hand to blot 
any bits that get clogged up..  [ some of these are heat set, and would be 
more durable/washable than spray paint... tho I'd go with the quick and (not 
quite) dirty spray paint method if it's a halloween costume or something that 
doesn't need to be washed between wearings. 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 10:56:05 1999
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From: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 09:08:04 -0700 (MST)
Subject: H-COST: Things to do in St. Louis
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-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu

Rob and I will be in St. Louis, Missouri from December 18-25.  We're
going there to visit family, but will have time to go places.
        Niether of us are terribly familiar with the area and when Rob asked
his brother-in-law what their was to do in St. Louis, the reply was "Not
much".  So I am appealing to the list for advice about what to do and where to
go.

Thanks,
Katie                        

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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 09:07:46 -0700
From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Marc Carlson wrote:

> -Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
> <KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>>
> >> Here's a hypothetical question:  what if I had permission from an image's
> >> owner to publish said image, say, a photograph, and put it on my website.
> >> If the person who gave me the permission later sells the photograph,
> >> does the new owner have the right to make me take it off the site?
> >
> >It depends!  Under the facts as you have given them, probably not.
>
> This does not match my understanding of current copyright law.
>
> If the copyright owner gives you permission to do something, and then later
> tells you "no, I don't want you to do that", you legally must stop whatever
> you
> are doing with it.  Period.  Certainly there are variations and loopholes
> to try and slip through, but essentially they have loaned you their property
> (usually for a specific purpose), but it's still their property.

I think the confusion in this discussion comes from the fact that (a) the owner of
a piece of physical property such as a photograph is not necessarily the copyright
owner and (b) permission to use a piece of art (or text or whatever) does not
constitute copyright ownership of it.  It is true that generally speaking only the
copyright owner can decide what can or can't be done with the work.  However,
copyright can be transferred (sold, bequeathed, given away); but I believe the new
copyright owner can be bound by contractual conditions entered into by the
previous owner, for the length of that contract.  Also, of course, a person
photographed (the model, professional or not) has some rights over how their image
is used, even though they are not the photographer.


>
>
> This is especially true when it comes to publication and distribution of their
> property, as through a web site.  I have in my possession several really good
> and informative articles and photographs that I would love to upload to my
> clothing and shoe websites, but I can not legally do so without the permission
> of the copyright owner, and in several of these cases that permission has
> been
> explicitly withheld (usually from reasons of it could interfere with their
> publication on a particular topic - a real concern in Academe; or simply
> because
> they don't want to distribute it in that fashion.  Why isn't really germaine,
> they could be withheld because the moon was in the wrong house, and I'd
> have to
> accept it).
>
> Marc
>

This is true,

Fran

--
---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



KATHARINE WHISLER wrote:

> -Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
>
> Fran Grimble commented on my post:
> >
> >> The owner of the right to publish has given you a tiny part of that
> >> right (the right to publish on your website).  Because they have given
> >> that right to you, they cannot now give it to someone else.
> >
> >Actually, you can give someone "nonexclusive" rights to publish.  I think
> >this is the legal default, rather than exclusive rights, but it's safer
> >to use the
>
> Fran,
> I apologize if I have confused you with my simplification.  It is
> irrelevant whether the person in the hypo was given an exclusive or
> non-exclusive right to publish something on a website. The transfer of a
> right, whether exclusive or non-exclusive, is still a transfer of a
> right.  Simple as that.  Obviously, you can transfer a right so that it
> comes back to you under certain conditions, but it is still the transfer
> of a right.  For example, if you give someone a non-exclusive right to
> publish something on their website, you can't give someone else the
> exclusive right to do so.

I'm not confused; I just thought other people might mistakenly think that they
can only transfer rights exclusively.  And that therefore granting one person,
for example, the right to reproduce the picture you created on their web site
might automatically mean you can't grant that right to anyone else
simultaneously.  You can; as long as you use that important word "nonexclusive"
in both cases.  Of course, yes, you can also have an exclusive right
transferred back to you under certain agreed-on conditions (such as after a
specified period of time).

Publishing requires an awareness of copyright issues, the web is a publication
medium, and so a great many people have suddenly become publishers.  Which is
why issues like this keep getting discussed.  If you are involved in the
transfer of copyrights (for example for web site use), whether you are
transferring your rights to someone else or acquiring theirs, you can't be too
aware of exactly what rights are being transferred.  Yes, I agree it's a good
idea to read a copyright book aimed at writers and publishers (rather than
lawyers); though I have yet to find a really good book specifically on digital
rights.

Fran Grimble


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 11:11:17 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Things to do in St. Louis
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Missouri Historical Society, in Forest Park, has a good costume collection.  
I'm not sure how much is on display.  While there, check out the art museum, 
the zoo and the Jewel Box (a small botanical garden building.)
Shaw's Garden, a large botanical garden with a geodesic dome for tropical 
plants, is in south St. Louis.
There are some historic houses.  I'm not sure how active they are at the 
moment.  One is the Campbell House.

Fabric shopping:  Anatole's in downtown St. Louis.  (I don't remember the 
address, but I think it is on Washington, and you can find it in the phone 
book.)

I grew up in St. Louis and still get back from time to time.

Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 11:42:39 1999
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From: "Design" <design@alincocostumes.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 11:49:40 -0600
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-Poster: "Design" <design@alincocostumes.com>

Can anyone direct me to pictures of traditional Spanish clothing from the
18th century?  I am especially looking for costume ideas for a Don Juan type
charater.

Thanks to any who can help,
Kevin Wasden

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 12:14:08 1999
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

> > The book I got is called 'Bruges and the Renaissance - Memling to Porobus'.
> 
> Sounds nice. How much is Borders asking for this?

FWIW, it's also listed by Edward R. Hamilton, Bookseller
(http://www.hamiltonbook.com)--$42.00.

BRUGES AND THE RENAISSANCE: Memling to Pourbus 
Edited By Maximiliaan P.J. Martens 

Lavishly illustrated and wide-ranging study brings the Renaissance to
life, and explores the artistic development of the period, with a focus on
the spread of ideas from Italy to northern Europe. 

Hardbound, 300 illustrations, 250 in color. 319 pages, Published by Abrams 
Size(inches) 9 1/2x12. 
Item # 156132 
ISBN 0810963825 
Current Pub at $60.00 Your Price $42.00 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 14:06:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 15:21:12 -0400
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I have a book that shows 70+ ways of draping a Sari!  It's "SARIS: An
Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping" by Chantal Boulanger. 
It shows all the different regional variations plus the "modern" ways. 
It's published by Shakti Press International, 33 Greyhound Road, London
W6 8NH, Great Britain.  Price: 20 pounds, US$30, Euro:29  
website:http://www.devi.net
I don't recall reading anything about a cotton facing, though she does
mention that some silks are difficult to keep tucked at the waist.  She
only mentions pins.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 14:27:47 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I'd check to see what the St.Louis Section of the International
Costumers Group  is up to.  They're a lot of fun.  Bruce and Nora Mai
are the leaders, last I knew.  Check their webpage for the group's
e-address.  They are nicknamed the S.L.U.T.S.
http://members.xoom.com/CasaMai/casamai/splashx.html


-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Help w/Greenberg & Hammer
Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 19:35:58 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Fri, 8 Oct 1999 07:27:19 EDT, the following was written in this
electric book by Mayfair13a@aol.com:

>I am trying to find the Greenberg sp? & Hammer web address.  Could someone 
>help?

They do not yet have one. When I called them to ask, I was told
sometime this coming spring, most likely. THey need to get that ENTIRE
catalog online, because they want to have a functional website (online
ordering was hinted).

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Crystal Pleated Gauze?
Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 19:39:36 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Fri, 8 Oct 1999 07:56:06 -0400, the following was written in this
electric book by "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>:

>Silk organza (maybe by a different name) would have been
>period for Elizabethan times, I believe.  Although cotton or
>linen can be very spun and woven into very transparent
>fabrics too.

And if you want a relatively inexpensive source for 100% silk organza,
try http://www.dharmatrading.com

Really. I ordered all the fabrics for my wedding dress from them, and
the quality is great, the prices are amazing and the customer service
is vastly superior.

If anyone is wondering, that wedding dress is for a wedding this
coming january, so it's a current recommendation.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 15:34:03 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 13:49:40 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

That was discussing the dresses with pinned on sleeves?  I was
browsing Museums stuff on the web and came across this:

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/index1.html

Scroll down to the Passion Alterpiece.  Here is a gown where the gown
fabric is *far* more fantastic than the sleeves.  And you can see the
seams.  He doesn't paint the fabric as though there are seams but he
did draw in the seams themselves.  Now again, this is more religious
stuff, but I think the gowns were quite typical of the time.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: ches@io.com

Try again on the URL.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 15:50:12 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Try again on the URL.
>

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/index1.html

Ah, weird.  Darned frames.  The URL is correct but you have too:

Click on M in the left hand colum
Click on Memling
Click on "Paintings of a Religious Subject Matter"
Scroll all the way to the bottom
Click on Altars

Dang, shouldn't have to be that hard.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Which artist.....this link only took me to the main url. 
Carol Ross
-----Original Message-----
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, October 08, 1999 3:52 PM
Subject: H-COST: was it this list?


>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>That was discussing the dresses with pinned on sleeves?  I was
>browsing Museums stuff on the web and came across this:
>
>http://gallery.euroweb.hu/index1.html
>
>Scroll down to the Passion Alterpiece.  Here is a gown where the gown
>fabric is *far* more fantastic than the sleeves.  And you can see the
>seams.  He doesn't paint the fabric as though there are seams but he
>did draw in the seams themselves.  Now again, this is more religious
>stuff, but I think the gowns were quite typical of the time.
>
>Cynthia
>
>--
>Cynthia Long
>Merouda the True of Beaumaris
>Barony of Madrone
>Kingdom of An Tir
>
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 16:07:13 1999
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-Poster: ches@io.com

WOW!

For those of you that are still not able to find it:
http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/religion/altar/passion3.jpg

This is just beautiful, not only are there seams but the pattern is not
matched up and it shows her back! A rare back of the dress view is worth a
veiwing. We have so few good examples of what they did in the back.
 
Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 16:44:08 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Things to do in St. Louis
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-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu



On Fri, 8 Oct 1999 AnnBWass@AOL.COM wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com
> 
> Missouri Historical Society, in Forest Park, has a good costume collection.  
> I'm not sure how much is on display. 

	Is it possible to make an appointment to view the stuff in the  
collection that is not on display?
> 
> Fabric shopping:  Anatole's in downtown St. Louis.  (I don't remember the 
> address, but I think it is on Washington, and you can find it in the phone 
> book.)

	What kind of stuff do they carry?

Thanks for all the suggestions!
Katie

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 16:44:11 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 16:57:23 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Things to do in St. Louis
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

OK, I know it's obvious, but you really must see the Gateway Arch. Allow 
time for watching the movie and riding to the top. It's also impressive at 
night (although not open).

Look for night life in the area near the arch, in old warehouses or on 
riverboats.

And if you like Italian food (who doesn't) find some great restaurants on 
The Hill in south St. Louis.

They've converted the old union train station into shops, if you like that 
kind of thing. It's worth the trip there for the Chinese restaurant inside. 
Can't remember the name, but try the sizzling rice soup and pot stickers there.

And the Art Museum, in Forest Park, is always worth a visit.
Kim

At 09:08 AM 10/08/1999 -0700, you wrote:

>-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu
>
>Rob and I will be in St. Louis, Missouri from December 18-25.  We're
>going there to visit family, but will have time to go places.
>         Niether of us are terribly familiar with the area and when Rob asked
>his brother-in-law what their was to do in St. Louis, the reply was "Not
>much".  So I am appealing to the list for advice about what to do and where to
>go.
>
>Thanks,
>Katie

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Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 18:00:44 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Caftan/Simar/Italian Renaissance
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I believe ther term is "chamarre."

Kathleen Norvell
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> For those of you that are still not able to find it:
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/religion/altar/passion3.jpg
>
> This is just beautiful, not only are there seams but the pattern is not
> matched up and it shows her back!

I missed the pattern un-match along the sides.  doh!  I was looking for sleeve
construction so carefully that I missed that entirely!  *Laugh*

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 18:36:02 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: FYI--cheap velveteen!
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I have seen period Italian silk velvet (there are a couple of samples of 
ecclesiastical garb at The Cloisters in NYC). It is very fine and drapes 
beautifully. I have also seen denser period velvet (I don't know the fiber 
content) that looks very much like modern velveteen. It could have been 
interfaced & lined to a fare-thee-well to make it hang differently, but I 
couldn't tell since it was under glass. It did not have the sheen the silk 
velvet had, so perhaps it was a combination of fibers.

I guess it depends on what you want to make.

Kathleen Norvell
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Message-ID: <00f601bf11eb$f03a42c0$0f5dadc7@bchamber>
From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910071401.IAA15394@net.indra.com> <37FCE97C.9E4196B1@home.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE:Cleaning Machines 
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 20:19:20 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

>
> One of the things I do is keep a can of compressed air by the machine so
> that every time I change the bobbin I remember to clean out the
> machine.  It's easy to just 'spritz' the bobbin compartment before you
> put the bobbin back in.

Back when the canned air was first really "big" a sewing machine repairman
 a good one) told me never to use it. Canned air would push a certain amount
of lint & dirt deeper into the machine, eventually causing more problems. I
use the same small vacuum attachments as I use for my computer to clean my
machines.

Beth

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Message-ID: <02e801bf11ef$117501c0$0f5dadc7@bchamber>
From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910052215.QAA14215@net.indra.com> <4.1.19991005143131.00bf0290@pop.slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Obscure machine: "Domestic" brand "Gaiety" model
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 20:41:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

>
> >Has anyone ever heard of this machine ("Gaiety" is a decal on the
> >machine, "Domestic" is a metal logo)?  It's a dumpster-dive rescuee, and
> >seems to be stuck - stitch selector on a fancy stitch, roto thingie
> >won't turn :-(  It looks about the same vintage as my Singer 403 or
> >maybe later - but still all-metal.  Anyone out there ever heard of it,
> >or have any clues on what's wrong with it?

My mother and I have managed to fix (i.e.. unfreeze) several machines. If
you haven't already - clean it. Vacuum every inch of it that you can reach,
wipe it down with a damp cloth,  then oil/lubricate all the traditional
areas. Is it frozen with the needle up or down? If it is down it may be
caught on something. Either way - take it out, it will be easier and safer
to work with. Take out the bobbin case and check for any tangled threads.
Check the whole bobbin case assembly for small bits of stuck thread also. If
something seems really frozen - not bent or jammed but just won't move- try
penetrating oil. Check your local library for repair books. All the old
mechanical machines shared very similar part/construction techniques so the
repair book doesn't really need to be model specific. I "think" this is the
one we used once or twice:
Author Hutchison, Howard.
Title The complete handbook of sewing machine repair
Edition 1st ed.
Publisher Blue Ridge Summit, Pa. : Tab Books, c1980.

Beth

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 19:51:08 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 23:13:10 -0400
Subject: H-COST: Re: Name My Business
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-Poster: Elizabeth Cummins <henninlady@juno.com>

How about "Tailored for Time"?

Elizabeth Cummins

___________________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Dyeing quesion
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 12:53 PM 10/7/99 -0500, Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:
>
>I have a piece of fabric that I got at a thrift store cheap which I have
>been intending to use on my first attempt at Tudor garb.  I have, however,
>decided that the color is inappropriate, and furthermore, I don't like it.
>The fabric itself is a nice, heavy, drapy satin-weave cotton, kelly green
>on one side and a mottled turquoise/kelly teal-ish color on the other.  
>
>What I would like to know is what color I should over dye it for something
>more appropriate, and what kind of dye is reasonably easy to use for
>someone without a kitchen or washer of her own (ie: living in a dorm).
>
>Many thanks in advance for any help or advice
>
>Emma

Well, which color to use depends upon what color you are hoping to achieve
<g>. If you want to get away from greens, you would need to add red to it
until you reach a nice rich brown. Or if you want a deeper green, you add
black to it. 

Another way to proceed is to first strip the color out of the cloth with
something like the color stripper from RIT. You then have a paler cloth to
start from.

I have found an Artist's Color Wheel to be a valuable tool when I'm trying
to decide what dye colors to use.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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Subject: Re: H-COST: RE:Cleaning Machines 
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Back when the canned air was first really "big" a sewing machine repairman
> a good one) told me never to use it. Canned air would push a certain amount
>of lint & dirt deeper into the machine, eventually causing more problems. I
>use the same small vacuum attachments as I use for my computer to clean my
>machines.
>

I was at Office Max today and saw what I thought at first wqs a glue gun.
It turned out to be a miniature, hand held vaccuum cleaner, with several
different attachments,  all for $10.  Perfect for sewing machines.

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct  8 22:40:09 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 20:51:17 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Chinese headscarves for men?
References: <6235FD3701AA3400@c2smtp.kentlaw.edu>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

KATHARINE WHISLER wrote:
> 
> -Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
> 
> Recently, the man in my life asked me to make him an early (Tang
> Dynasty, say) costume to wear to an SCA event.  After looking at a bunch
> of art books, I think I have it covered, but there is one thing that still
> really mystifies me.

Lucky you to work on such an interesting period. I didn't know
China was now part of SCA land. Great! Will you have pictures
when it's done??  (Sorry I don't know how the "turbans" are tied)


Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 23:09:34 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Name My Business
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 11:13 PM 10/07/1999 -0400, you wrote: -Poster: Elizabeth Cummins
<henninlady@juno.com>
>How about "Tailored for Time"? Elizabeth Cummins
                 Brava!
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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 08:49:06 -0700
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



	I have to post on this subject.  The first hoop skirt I ever saw in
person went "SHOOP SHOOP" as she walked.

	Not just a Hula Hoop, but a Shoop Shoop Hula Hoop.

	Does anyone know what a "POOF" is?  Hint, it's a piece of furniture.

	Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 11:07:36 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>	Does anyone know what a "POOF" is?  Hint, it's a piece of furniture.
>
>Try spelling it "pouf".  It's an overstuffed, usually round and "pouffy"
hassock thing.

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 11:33:09 1999
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	 Sat, 9 Oct 1999 09:44:56 -0700
From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Don Juan Style Spanish Costume
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 12:53:23 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

There are a few paragraphs in the Countess of Wilton's 1846
The Book of Costume, or
Annals of Fashion, ed. by RLShep, regarding the costume of
the Spaniard and a line drawing:

"The most important part of the Spaniard's costume is the
capa or cloak ...  that worn by the higher classes is of
blue or black cloth, faced with rich black silk velvet, and
frequently lined throughout with taffety ... not a winter
garment alone; in the hottest days of summer it is often
worn ...

"The rest of the costume consists of a short round jacket,
with an upright collar.  It is sometimes of dyed sheepskin
with the wool outwards, but more commonly of coarse cloth or
velvet, brown, green, blue or black--adorned with tags on
the breasts, trimmed with braid and velvet, lined with silk
...often has silk epaulettes... Two handkercheifs are thrust
into small side pockets, red and white, or red and yellow,
with their ends depending (sic).

"The waistcoat on fete-days is generally bright silk, gaily
figured, often with representations of bullfights.  It is
adorned with basket-buttons, and trimmed with braid like the
jacket, and is worn very open to display the well-worked
shirt, the collars of which are invariably turned down,
leaving the throat exposed.  Round the neck is worn a silk
scarf, tied in a slip knot, descending on the bosom.  It is
generally crimson, pink, or canary cooed, but ought always
to correspond in hue to the lineing of the jacket, and with
the sash or faga, which is a narrow strip of silk or
worsted, girded round the waist with several turns.  One end
is often sewn up into a pouch, which serves as a purse, and
bag for tobacco.  A large clasp knife is a never-failing
intimate of the faga.

"Tight breeches of blue, green, or chocolate plush, or
punto, reach below the knee, where they are tied with cords,
terminating in tassels of the same color.  The outer seams
are adorned with rows of dangling basket-buttons, plaited or
gilt, and sometimes with broad stripes of dark braid.  The
legs are cased in splatterdashes or botines of calf-skin,
fastened with leather loops on the outer sides of the legs,
bur left open at the calf, so as always to give the
appearance of a full and handsome limb.  They are made with
the rough side outwards--and are carefully worked on the
front and back with flowers of darker leather ... sometimes
stittched with silk of various colors.

"The shoes (zapatos) are partially covered by the botines,
are of similar leather, so that together they appear like
high boots .... and rarely of black tanned leather studded
with brass tacks...

"Over the head is a bright silk handkercheif, folded
diagonally, and tied with a knot behind ... over this is a
broad -brimmed sugarloaf hat of black felt."

I believe she is describing the plains Spaniard here, as she
goes on to describe another costume for the men of the
mountainous regions.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Design
> Sent: Friday, October 08, 1999 12:54 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 11:49:40 -0600
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Design" <design@alincocostumes.com>
>
> Can anyone direct me to pictures of traditional Spanish
> clothing from the
> 18th century?  I am especially looking for costume ideas
for
> a Don Juan type
> charater.
>
> Thanks to any who can help,
> Kevin Wasden

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 11:34:31 1999
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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 09:50:50 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: hoop skirt
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Depends where you are.  Pouf in Europe means gay.   
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: hoop skirt
>Date: Sat, Oct 9, 1999, 9:17 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>
>>
>> Does anyone know what a "POOF" is?  Hint, it's a piece of furniture.
>>
>>Try spelling it "pouf".  It's an overstuffed, usually round and "pouffy"
>hassock thing.
>
>Margo
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 11:35:27 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: hoop skirt
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 10/9/99 10:00:54 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
russellh@home.com writes:

<< Does anyone know what a "POOF" is?  Hint, it's a piece of furniture. >>
It looks like a giant overstuffed ottoman, generally circular in form for 
all-around seating in a central area.  Often found in hotel lobbies in 
generations gone by.  Used often in period plays with hotel interiors.  
Cheryl Odom
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 11:50:07 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Found it
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 13:09:48 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

There are two paintings of differentwomen by de Heere with
the hat under discussion of the 1560-1570 period, can be
seen, tho fuzzy, at http://www.reconstructinghistory.com.
That linen strip apprears to be wound around the head after
the woman has donned a red pillow-case.  After winding, the
red top flops down on the windings to cover the head, and
the bottom flaps out below. Keeps the weather off the top of
her head, for sure.  Could be done differently, this is just
a guess.  The topper and the flaps are different than the
van der Weyden Magdalene, to be sure, but the windings sure
do look awfully similar, particularly when viewed in greater
detail in books like Dunbar's.  It doesn't "prove" anything,
but it does cast doubt on the rather broad statement
inferring the winding thing is so ridiculous that nobody
would have worn it attitude.  Irish trade with the low
countries at that time was equal to that of England.  Many
elements of the costumes are similar, including the cut of
the Shinrone gown.

To switch gears slightly, has anyone else seen Aretha
Franklin in that whacky hat on the magazine cover this week?
Sort of a gilt cardboard version of the halo.  Does rather
suggest humans will wear anything when they are trying to
set style.  Apologies to a great and beloved lady ..... but
she has worn better garb, in my opinion!

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Sent: Friday, October 08, 1999 11:50 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Found it
>
>
>
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
> > > its purely allegorical.  Someone dismissed the 1570 de
> Heere travelogue
> > > watercolor of the same thing on an Irish woman.  Don't
know why.
> >
> > Just a guess, but maybe because it's from well over 100
> years later and a
> > different country? I would be leery of linking two
isolated
> hats over that
> > duration of time unless there was a mostly unbroken
chain of similar
> > examples during the intervening years.
>
> Twas I who dismissed it.  I did specify my reasons.  I try
> not to dismiss out
> of hand, honest.  But now I have a picture.  The above is
one
> of the reasons I
> stated but the main reason for me is that deHeere's
> watercolor doesn't look
> like the same hat *to me*.  It resembles the same shape to
a
> point but then
> all resemblance stops.  If we are talking about the same
> Lucas de Heere lady
> (there aren't too many, she is in red and yellow) it is at
> http://www47.pair.com/lindo/Laterirl.htm  There are ear
flaps
> for one thing.
> And while there is obviously some linen wrapped, it isn't
> coiled from the
> center out.  It is wrapped around a red hat of two levels,
> kind of plateaued
> with some kind of tie holding the whole thing together.
To
> me, it looks
> nothing like the Magdalen hat.
>
> Assuming that this *is* the same picture by de Heere that
was being
> discussed.  If not, then nevermind.  ;->
>
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 12:15:45 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: copyrights
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 10:38:40 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



Wouldn't it work somewhat like a book.  The previous owner gives permission,
the picture gets  published in a book. The new owner doesn't like it, but
can't  make the already printed and sold books no longer exist.  I know that
a site isn't that permanent, but how would you control what was already
released?
Michelle
>-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
>
><<If the person who gave me the permission later sells the photograph,
does
>the new owner have the right to make me take it off the site?>>
>
>Probably. Reproduction rights usually -- not always -- go with the sale
>(major exception is when the person selling the work created it. In other
>words, when you buy an original painting or work of art from the artist,
>you normally don't automatically get the reproduction rights.)
>
>
>Deborah

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From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



Margo Anderson wrote:
> 

<snip>

> >Try spelling it "pouf".  It's an overstuffed, usually round and "pouffy"
> hassock thing.
> 
> Margo
> 
> "One Tough Costumer"
>

Oh, that was fast!  And I knew I was spelling it wrong, I had no clue. 
Thank you!

I bring it up 'cause my Grandmother made one, from an old table, and it
has been in the family ever since.  My sister has it now, she took a
course in making and repairing furniture.  Fixed it up like new.

A pouf is for sitting on when wearing a hoop skirt.

Or so I have been told.

Russell Hedges
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 09:50 AM 10/09/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
>Depends where you are.  Pouf in Europe means gay.   
>~!~ R.L.Shep


Just goes to show that these thngs vary:  I thought the spelling "poof",
short for "poofter", meant gay, and the overstuffed hassock was a "pouf".
Of course,  some gay men I know are round and overstuffed....oops, I had
better stop here.  

Wildly off topic,

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 12:23:45 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: hoop skirts
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 10:46:35 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>




>
>-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
>Can anyone give me info for getting a hoop skirt/ (As cheap as possible,
goes
>w/o saying )
>
>Thanks
>
>Raella

There is a business here in Fresno, Ca that makes and sells them at $65
each.  Can anyone get them cheaper?
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 12:30:03 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Don Juan Style Costume
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 13:51:19 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>


There are a number of Spanish portrait paintings of the
1700's here, which show the male Spanish costumes of the
period beautifully:
http://sunsite.auc.dk/cgfa/spanish.htm#sp17.    There is a
range of male costume depicted here, from very conservative
to flamboyant, for you to pick and choose from.  Countess of
Wilton's description, though written in 1846, would have
applied to many features of 18th Century costume, depending
on the age and rank of the male being depicted. Ramón
Bayeu's "Boy with Guitar," 1786, oil on canvas, Museo del
Prado, Madrid shows those silken epaulettes she mentions,
for instance. The frock coat is much in evidence, but with
heavily embroidered velvet turn-backs (revers and cuffs) and
vest.  The round jacket is shown too.


Hope H. Dunlap



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 12:36:16 1999
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Michelle wrote:

> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
> Wouldn't it work somewhat like a book.  The previous owner gives permission,
> the picture gets  published in a book. The new owner doesn't like it, but
> can't  make the already printed and sold books no longer exist.  I know that
> a site isn't that permanent, but how would you control what was already
> released?
> Michelle

First, as I understand it, what a second copyright owner "liked" would not
really be the issue, but whether the agreement for use made with the previous
copyright owner also bound the second owner.  Second, material can easily be
removed from a web site, and a copyright owner who discovered his/her work
illegally published on a web site could ask for its removal.  Third, a copyright
owner who discovered his/her work illegally published could ask for compensatory
payment to be made for its use, and/or sue for such payment.

Fran Grimble


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 13:08:57 1999
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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

R.L. Shep wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
> 
> Depends where you are.  Pouf in Europe means gay.
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com
> 
> ----------
> >No that one is spelt poof

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 13:27:33 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Don Juan Style Spanish Costume
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 14:49:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

http://www2.iinet.com/art/artists/major/g/goya.htm shows 46
images from Goya, many of which are from the 18th Century.
His style can be quite loose, making details sometimes hard
to pick out, but the unique Spanish sillouettes and colors
are all there!

Usining the painters names from the sunsite index I
referenced earlier, you can do a search on
http://www.metacrawler.com, the master search engine, for
additional paintings by Spanish artists of the 18th Century.

Hpe H. Dunlap




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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: hoop skirt
In-Reply-To: <37FF79A8.5FE584E@home.com>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Sat, 9 Oct 1999, Russell Hedges wrote:

> 
> > >Try spelling it "pouf".  It's an overstuffed, usually round and "pouffy"
> > hassock thing.
> > 
> > Margo
> > 
> > "One Tough Costumer"
> >
> 
> Oh, that was fast!  And I knew I was spelling it wrong, I had no clue. 
> Thank you!
> 
> I bring it up 'cause my Grandmother made one, from an old table, and it
> has been in the family ever since.  My sister has it now, she took a
> course in making and repairing furniture.  Fixed it up like new.
> 
> A pouf is for sitting on when wearing a hoop skirt.
> 
> Or so I have been told.
> 
I've always been under the impression that they were a kind of footstool.
(ie like a giant cushion for putting your feet on) Though I guess you
could put your backside on one too. The word is only used with the 'gay'
connoitation in this country so far as I'm aware, but my mother 
delights in calling her 'Feetseat' a pouf 'cos it embarrasses my brothers 
*grin*
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Wow! Thanks to whoever posted that information about the Memling altarpiece 
picture. What a great thing to see! And that cotehardie (or kirtle, or 
whatever we're calling it today) fits just the way mine do! But I would never 
have imagined that paisley fabric. Pretty great.

Another picture on the same page, the central panel of the Donne Triptych, 
shows a woman on the right hand side of the picture with a plain green gown 
and brocade pinned-on sleeves, apparently meant to be worn without another 
dress on top. It's a lovely picture with quite a few nice gowns -- and all 
the women have "super model" type figures, too, rather than the shorter and 
rounder build I tend to think of as medieval.

When I have more time, I plan to check out the rest of the Memling pix too!

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 19:30:54 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Patterns
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 20:46:38 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Who sells historic patterns for costumes for the War of 1812 reenactment for
men and women?   Can you please send me web addresses and/or phone numbers.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 22:04:19 1999
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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 23:25:17 -0400
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

Cool!

Raella

ches@io.com wrote:

> -Poster: ches@io.com
>
> WOW!
>
> For those of you that are still not able to find it:
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/religion/altar/passion3.jpg
>
> This is just beautiful, not only are there seams but the pattern is not
> matched up and it shows her back! A rare back of the dress view is worth a
> veiwing. We have so few good examples of what they did in the back.
>
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> ches@io.com
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 22:11:19 1999
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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 23:32:45 -0400
From: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: hoop skirt
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

Not only do I know what a POOF is, I have one! I'm not sure it's the same as
yours, My grandparent brought a few back from Nigeria a long time ago. It's
like a leather ottoman w/o wheels or internal structure.
They stuffed them full of newpaper in Africa, mines stuffed w/ old pillows.

Raella

Russell Hedges wrote:

> -Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
>
>         I have to post on this subject.  The first hoop skirt I ever saw in
> person went "SHOOP SHOOP" as she walked.
>
>         Not just a Hula Hoop, but a Shoop Shoop Hula Hoop.
>
>         Does anyone know what a "POOF" is?  Hint, it's a piece of furniture.
>
>         Russell Hedges

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 22:13:29 1999
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

Try  The Historic Spanish Society in NYNY

Raella

"Hope H. Dunlap" wrote:

> -Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>
> There are a few paragraphs in the Countess of Wilton's 1846
> The Book of Costume, or
> Annals of Fashion, ed. by RLShep, regarding the costume of
> the Spaniard and a line drawing:
>
> "The most important part of the Spaniard's costume is the
> capa or cloak ...  that worn by the higher classes is of
> blue or black cloth, faced with rich black silk velvet, and
> frequently lined throughout with taffety ... not a winter
> garment alone; in the hottest days of summer it is often
> worn ...
>
> "The rest of the costume consists of a short round jacket,
> with an upright collar.  It is sometimes of dyed sheepskin
> with the wool outwards, but more commonly of coarse cloth or
> velvet, brown, green, blue or black--adorned with tags on
> the breasts, trimmed with braid and velvet, lined with silk
> ...often has silk epaulettes... Two handkercheifs are thrust
> into small side pockets, red and white, or red and yellow,
> with their ends depending (sic).
>
> "The waistcoat on fete-days is generally bright silk, gaily
> figured, often with representations of bullfights.  It is
> adorned with basket-buttons, and trimmed with braid like the
> jacket, and is worn very open to display the well-worked
> shirt, the collars of which are invariably turned down,
> leaving the throat exposed.  Round the neck is worn a silk
> scarf, tied in a slip knot, descending on the bosom.  It is
> generally crimson, pink, or canary cooed, but ought always
> to correspond in hue to the lineing of the jacket, and with
> the sash or faga, which is a narrow strip of silk or
> worsted, girded round the waist with several turns.  One end
> is often sewn up into a pouch, which serves as a purse, and
> bag for tobacco.  A large clasp knife is a never-failing
> intimate of the faga.
>
> "Tight breeches of blue, green, or chocolate plush, or
> punto, reach below the knee, where they are tied with cords,
> terminating in tassels of the same color.  The outer seams
> are adorned with rows of dangling basket-buttons, plaited or
> gilt, and sometimes with broad stripes of dark braid.  The
> legs are cased in splatterdashes or botines of calf-skin,
> fastened with leather loops on the outer sides of the legs,
> bur left open at the calf, so as always to give the
> appearance of a full and handsome limb.  They are made with
> the rough side outwards--and are carefully worked on the
> front and back with flowers of darker leather ... sometimes
> stittched with silk of various colors.
>
> "The shoes (zapatos) are partially covered by the botines,
> are of similar leather, so that together they appear like
> high boots .... and rarely of black tanned leather studded
> with brass tacks...
>
> "Over the head is a bright silk handkercheif, folded
> diagonally, and tied with a knot behind ... over this is a
> broad -brimmed sugarloaf hat of black felt."
>
> I believe she is describing the plains Spaniard here, as she
> goes on to describe another costume for the men of the
> mountainous regions.
>
> Hope H. Dunlap
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
> [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Design
> > Sent: Friday, October 08, 1999 12:54 PM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: H-COST: Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 11:49:40 -0600
> >
> >
> >
> > -Poster: "Design" <design@alincocostumes.com>
> >
> > Can anyone direct me to pictures of traditional Spanish
> > clothing from the
> > 18th century?  I am especially looking for costume ideas
> for
> > a Don Juan type
> > charater.
> >
> > Thanks to any who can help,
> > Kevin Wasden

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 23:10:45 1999
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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 23:20:38 -0500
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From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Crystal pleated gauze
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>>, Kimberly Gilbert <kimberlygilbert@worldnet.att.net> writes
>
>>Can anyone tell me what crystal pleated gauze is?  The new
>>Simplicity Elizabethan pattern calls for it for the ruff,
>>but I have no idea what it is (or where to obtain it).  Any
>>help would be appreciated.
>>
>>Kimberly
>
Crystal pleating is very tiny accordion pleating, many times used in
ruffles.  Similar to the type of pleating Madame Vionnet is known for.  I
have seen pre-made crystal pleated gauze ruffles and yardage in the bridal
section of Hancocks.  It's probably nylon or polyester (not period!) but
you can get an idea of what it looks like.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 23:27:30 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: National Geographic CD-ROM
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 00:42:28 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I was in COSTCO yesterday and the National Geographic CD-rom set was $99 and
it has a coupon for a $30 rebate good until Dec. 31.  So the price is now
$69.  It is coming down into my price range.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct  9 23:48:42 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Same Woman
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Wow! I just noticed the same woman in the exact same sideless surcote and
red underdress in three separate Memling Paintings.

If you go to;

http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/religion/altar/

Click on - Diptych1.jpg and then on Donne.jpg. See the woman with the
sideless surcote with the white top and patterned bottom and red
underdress?  She is also in another triptych of Memling's in my new
fabulous Bruges book.  'Triptych of Saints John the Baptist and John the
Evangelist'.

OK, why is Mary Magdelene portrayed as having sleeves that are often red or
another color different from the dress?

Also who was Sisamnes?  There is a graphic painting of him being flayed in
my new fabulous (OK, I probably paid too much for it) Bruges book.  The
painting is called The Justice of Cambyses.  Again the people have that
realistic look about them, even the guy being flayed.  I wasn't sure if it
was allegorical in nature.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 10 00:00:15 1999
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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 01:17:07 -0400
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

AlterYears carries 1812 era patterns in these brands: Wingeo, La Mode
Bagatelle, Rocking Horse Farm (has men's and Dragoon uniform as
well),The Mantua Maker, Tailor's Guide (has men's also), Harriet's
Patterns (has men's),and Period Patterns.  They may have more in the new
catalog, mine's from '98. 
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 10 00:39:45 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Same Woman
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 15:35:00 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

She may be a family member, lover or some other friend of the artist.
Artists often placed friends and families in thier work...David's
coronation of Napoleon, for instance, has the artist's family watching
proceedings from a mezzanine in spite of the fact that they had not
attended.

-C.

> Wow! I just noticed the same woman in the exact same sideless surcote and
> red underdress in three separate Memling Paintings.

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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: was it this list?
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

 http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/portrait/

Then click on woman-lo.jpg or portinar.jpg

What is the consensus on the collars on the dresses?  Are they sewn as a
part of the dress or attached separately? The collars in these two
portraits look to be made of fur and look as if they may be attached
separately, but I have seen others that appear to be linen and go under
(tucked?) the belt.

This is a great Web Page.

Kathlene
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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 13:41:08 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: prints in private collections
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
>  As far as I know, photos of paintings are as copyrightable as photos of
>sculptures or
>buildings or people.  If two different photographers take pictures of a
>painting,
>each photographer owns the copyright to his/her own picture (though not to the
>original painting).  A scan is essentially a photo.
<...>
>Actually, as I understand it, you do own the rights to a photo you have taken
>yourself, no matter what it is of. Unless of course you have sold or otherwise
>transferred those rights.  In some cases you may need someone else's
>permission to
>create/take the photo to begin with, or to publish it.

I am wondering if you could clarify a bit.  For the purposes of this
question, I am not so interested in my own things being copyright-protected
as in not violating someone else's copyright.

If a scan is a photo, and the photographer has rights to any photographs
(scans) that they have taken, then if I scan a photo (say, from a book),
and the images in the book are obviously copyrighted, may I or may I not
publish this picture on my website?  I see from your last sentence (in the
above snip) that this may vary, but how do I distinguish?

Also, I am happy to give full attribution to the source--does this change
things any?

My second question relates to the beginning of this thread, in which one
person suggested some ebay images as a source and you replied that this is
a violation of the seller's copyright.  Having read through the relevant
part of ebay's user agreement, this is indeed what it says.  Is this legal
for them to say regarding personal use?  That is, if all I want to do is
copy an image for my own personal use, never to be published or used in any
commercial endeavor?  I am certainly far from an expert, but I thought that
personal and educational uses (not abuses) were legal even for copyrighted
images.

Thanks for any help you can give.

Melanie


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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> -
>
> If a scan is a photo, and the photographer has rights to any photographs
> (scans) that they have taken, then if I scan a photo (say, from a book),
> and the images in the book are obviously copyrighted, may I or may I not
> publish this picture on my website?  I see from your last sentence (in the
> above snip) that this may vary, but how do I distinguish?

If you make a scan of a photo that someone else has taken, and that photo is
covered by modern copyright, then I believe your scan is a derivative work.  You
may not publish derivative works of copyrighted material without the permission of
the copyright owner of the original work


> My second question relates to the beginning of this thread, in which one
> person suggested some ebay images as a source and you replied that this is
> a violation of the seller's copyright.  Having read through the relevant
> part of ebay's user agreement, this is indeed what it says.  Is this legal
> for them to say regarding personal use?  That is, if all I want to do is
> copy an image for my own personal use, never to be published or used in any
> commercial endeavor?  I am certainly far from an expert, but I thought that
> personal and educational uses (not abuses) were legal even for copyrighted
> images.

"Educational use" is subject to significant limitations, which I have mentioned
before at length on the h-costume list.  Among them are a connection with a formal,
nonprofit classroom, the number of copies made, the length of the material used,
spontaneity (there was not enough time to order a textbook and have the students
buy it), and other considerations.  For more information, see a book on copyright,
such as the _Copyright Handbook_, by by Donald E. Johnston.

Ebay is a somewhat different situation also involving a contract--the user's
agreement.  As far as I know, you can put whatever restrictions you want in a
contract as long as they don't violate the law (and it looks to me like ebay's
contract and policies were written by their lawyers, who ought to know).  For
example, ebay's user contract can put restrictions on use of their site that might
not necessarily be included in another auction's web site contract.  When you use
ebay, you are bound by their contract/agreement, not by someone else's, or by what
you personally think is "fair."

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
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Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

>
>
> Also, I am happy to give full attribution to the source--does this change
> things any?

I see I forgot to answer this question.  The copyright owner has the right to
control publication of and charge payment for their work.  Publishing their work
without their explicit and prior permission is a copyright violation regardless of
whether you give credit for it.  If you ask their permission and they say, "Yes, if
you give me credit in such-and-such form," then that credit is part of your
contract/agreement with them, but it is not strictly speaking a copyright issue.


Fran


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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Subject: Re: H-COST: prints in private collections
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	 <37FCCAA8.B37CCB3@best.com> <37FD5029.247F@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> Thanks for sharing your expertise on this matter.  Hopefully it will, by
> informing us of what is legal, help us to respect and adhere to the
> copyright laws.  If you should ever come across a good book on internet
> copyright, I hope that you will share it with the list, as this seems to be
> an issue for a number of us.
>
> Thanks,
> Melanie

OK, but the Internet is just another publishing medium.  The real problem is
that currently many people putting material on the Internet are not fully aware
of the basic copyright laws.  I think that will change eventually, but it
hasn't yet.

Anyway if you want to use material, someone else has published on the net, ask
their permission.  If you are wondering if _they_ are publishing it legally,
I'd recommend asking them relevant questions, such as "Where did you get this
material?" "The date on the book you scanned that from indicates the book may
still be copyrighted; did you verify that the copyright has expired?"  "Can you
put me in touch with the copyright holder so I can ask their permission to use
this material?"  etc.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 17:55:08 -0400
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: hoop skirts
References: <00e701bf127e$3c1bd720$0be6fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

AlterYears has hoops for less than $65.  CS104 - 4 wire no ruffles use
for Tudor and Elizabethan, 135" circumference is available in white for
$40 or black or red for $45.  CS105 - 5 wire no ruffle, use for late
1850's-1860's, 150" circumference in the same three colors is $45-$50. 
CS112 - 6 wire no ruffles, dome-shaped, use for 1850's, 150"
circumference, same three colors is $50-$55.
Their shop is in Pasadena, California, but their catalog ships to other
places.  They also have 18th century full court panniers and 1860's
elliptical.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 10 18:54:43 1999
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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 15:28:39 -0600
From: Elizabeth Lee <elee@xpert.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity 14thC cotehardie and sideless, #8725
References: <19990919194331.93863.qmail@hotmail.com> <37E549C8.D25DC4E4@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Elizabeth Lee <elee@xpert.net>

Hi,

Sorry to be posting so late on this subject, but it took me a while to catch up
on some back e-mail due to a very busy life right now.

There is a wedding dress pattern, Simplicity 6751, that is basically a 12-gore
cotehardie pattern needing minor changes (such as lengthen the sleeves full
length, change necklie to scoop instead of V, change zipper to buttons, etc).
Someone from the Denver area found and used this pattern, and has a picture in
one of her books that looks like it could document the use of 3 panels per
quarter-body (don't remember which one, one of the madonna paintings that you can
see the "princess" seams, 2 of them, on the front right quarter).

I have also found one of the "It's so Easy" simplicity patterns for a modern day
dress, 8-gore with princess seams, that was easily adapted to a cotehardie
pattern (take out zipper, lengthen pieces about a foot or so depending on height,
widen the 'flair' of the skirt starting at the hips) but i don't remember the
number offhand -- I am currently using 'wastecloth' pattern pieces copied from
the paper, which I put away somewhere.  If I find the pattern envelope, I will
post the number (if people are interested).

Richenda




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 10 21:20:48 1999
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Subject: H-COST: RE:Cleaning Machines 
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 22:26:17 -0500
x-sender: tr002203-elisee@williams.tricreations.com
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From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>

The biggest problem with canned air is that if the can has been shaken or 
is not perfectly vertical the can will dispense propellant along with the 
air into the machine.  The propellant will in many years pit the parts.  
In professional repair shops we use an air tank that puts out a much 
higher power jet of air (120 pounds) but is safe because there is no 
propellant.  We refill the tank when it gets low, or some huge shops 
simply have a compressor.

Try this to prove it to yourself.  Shake your can of air and *poof* it on 
your hand.  Then spray it out into the air a time or two and do it again. 
 You shuld feel a _wet_ cold burst the first time, simply air the second. 
 

Take out as much lint and gunk as possible with a paper towel or 
mini-vacuum before you use the air, and it minimizes the lint getting 
into where you don't want it (like foofed back into your face).  Remember 
there can be needle tips or pin tips if you've had collisions, so you 
don't want those flying up into your eyes.  

I just had a machine brought to me with so much lint under the needle 
plate that the feed dogs couldn't rise at all - she thought she had 
jammed her machine for good.  

Lisee

Beth wrote:

>
>-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>>
>> One of the things I do is keep a can of compressed air by the machine so
>> that every time I change the bobbin I remember to clean out the
>> machine.  It's easy to just 'spritz' the bobbin compartment before you
>> put the bobbin back in.
>
>Back when the canned air was first really "big" a sewing machine repairman
> a good one) told me never to use it. Canned air would push a certain amount
>of lint & dirt deeper into the machine, eventually causing more problems. I
>use the same small vacuum attachments as I use for my computer to clean my
>machines.
>
>Beth
>
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 10 21:37:04 1999
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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 22:50:23 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity 
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-Poster: Elysant@aol.com

-Poster: <Elysant@aol.com>

>I have also found one of the "It's so Easy" simplicity patterns for a modern 
day
>dress, 8-gore with princess seams, that was easily adapted to a cotehardie
>pattern (take out zipper, lengthen pieces about a foot or so depending on 
height,
>widen the 'flair' of the skirt starting at the hips) but i don't remember the
>number offhand -- I am currently using 'wastecloth' pattern pieces copied 
from
>the paper, which I put away somewhere.  If I find the pattern envelope, I 
will
>post the number (if people are interested).

Could you please?

Thanks

Elysant
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 10 22:57:47 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 00:06:41 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: They've labeled us! - humour
In-Reply-To: <002e01bf12b8$ea2c08a0$be56accf@e4c2n6>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

I just got this on another e-list I'm on and thought that most of you are
fellow sufferers. 

Cheers,
Danielle

>--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
>The Center for Disease Control in Atlanta today announced the
>identification of a new disease. Tentatively named Acquired Needlework
>Syndrome, the disease is highly infectious. Scientists at CDC say the
>disease is caused by a bacillus called staphloaiguille because of its
>needle-like shape. Under the microscope the bacillus is long and slender
>with a long narrow opening at one end, from which trail thread-like
>cilia.
>
>Symptoms of the disease include feverish babbling of letters such as DMC,
>TW, LOL, ROFL and talking about invisible friends such as Teresa, Paula,
>Robert, Karen, etc. At first sufferers appear to be taking an unusual
>interest in Verdi operas, while more advanced cases develop wanderlust,
>especially wishing to travel to Edinburgh, Dublin, and Belfast. Other
>symptoms include feverish buying and storing of woven goods and printed
>pamphlets, and a 'smoking' credit card. The disease is especially
>dangerous because it cannot only be passed along directly from one
>infected individual to another, but documented cases have been found
>where the sufferer caught the disease from reading a
>magazine, or attending a craft show. 
>
>The CDC says that while the disease is especially prevalent in North
>America, cases have been found in every country on the globe. Family
>members should be aware that while the disease may occasionally enter
>remission, it is at present incurable.
>
>The patient should be given a quiet corner with a comfortable chair and
>good lighting. Interruptions should be minimized. 
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 06:28:08 1999
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From: AnnBWass@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 07:41:39 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1812Patterns
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I'm sorry I missed the initial inquiry about War of 1812 patterns.  This is 
my special area of interest, and I have done quite a bit of research in the 
area.  I would be glad to share with anyone with an interest in this area.  
Ann Wass
annbwass@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 06:31:57 1999
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Message-ID: <0.3c4274f7.253327f0@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 07:45:52 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk brocade
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Of course silk brocades were coming from China, as well as Italy.  But my 
feeling is that most of the modern silk brocades (or part silk--most of them 
are primarily acetate) just look TOO oriental.  Even though "Chinoiserie" was 
popular in the mid 18th century, the patterns did not look like today's 
brocades.  

I have been successful in finding one real silk brocade, from Korea, that has 
a nice baroque-style design.  Alas, there was only enough for an open 
robe--no petticoat.

Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 07:25:23 1999
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Subject: H-COST: RE:Cleaning Machines 
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 08:43:05 -0500
x-sender: tr002203-elisee@williams.tricreations.com
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>

The biggest problem with canned air is that if the can has been shaken or 
is not perfectly vertical the can will dispense propellant along with the 
air into the machine.  The propellant will in many years pit the parts.  
In professional repair shops we use an air tank that puts out a much 
higher power jet of air (120 pounds) but is safe because there is no 
propellant.  We refill the tank when it gets low, or some huge shops 
simply have a compressor.

Try this to prove it to yourself.  Shake your can of air and *poof* it on 
your hand.  Then spray it out into the air a time or two and do it again. 
 You shuld feel a _wet_ cold burst the first time, simply air the second. 
 

Take out as much lint and gunk as possible with a paper towel or 
mini-vacuum before you use the air, and it minimizes the lint getting 
into where you don't want it (like foofed back into your face).  Remember 
there can be needle tips or pin tips if you've had collisions, so you 
don't want those flying up into your eyes.  

I just had a machine brought to me with so much lint under the needle 
plate that the feed dogs couldn't rise at all - she thought she had 
jammed her machine for good.  

Lisee

Beth wrote:

>
>-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>>
>> One of the things I do is keep a can of compressed air by the machine so
>> that every time I change the bobbin I remember to clean out the
>> machine.  It's easy to just 'spritz' the bobbin compartment before you
>> put the bobbin back in.
>
>Back when the canned air was first really "big" a sewing machine repairman
> a good one) told me never to use it. Canned air would push a certain amount
>of lint & dirt deeper into the machine, eventually causing more problems. I
>use the same small vacuum attachments as I use for my computer to clean my
>machines.
>
>Beth
>
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 09:24:22 1999
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-Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>

(laughing quietly to myself....)
does it bother anyone that the words sewer (one who sews) and sewer
(where all the ummm...waste material goes) are spelled the same?  All I
could think of is an archeological dig at a waste water plant where one
centuries from now, they examined all the clothing that was flushed down
the toilet or eaten by the washing machine.

Jonna Hayden wrote:Clothing Re: Past

> Fine Patterns for the Historical Sewer.
>
> (I must be hungry. . .)
>
> Jonna
>
> _

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business...some of my suggestions
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 09:35 AM 10/11/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>
>
>(laughing quietly to myself....)
>does it bother anyone that the words sewer (one who sews) and sewer
>(where all the ummm...waste material goes) are spelled the same?  All I
>could think of is an archeological dig at a waste water plant where one
>centuries from now, they examined all the clothing that was flushed down
>the toilet or eaten by the washing machine.

Maybe they could solve the mystery of Where The Socks Go....

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 10:49:42 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> but it does cast doubt on the rather broad statement
> inferring the winding thing is so ridiculous that nobody
> would have worn it attitude.

I haven't seen anyone with *this* attitude.   It certainly isn't mine.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 12:00:39 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Spanish 18th century
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 10:10:52 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


> Can anyone direct me to pictures of traditional Spanish clothing from the
> 18th century?  I am especially looking for costume ideas for
> a Don Juan type charater.

Goya paintings at the Prado, Madrid.  (Not the black pictures; the dancers,
the picnics, the lovers.)
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

h-costume@indra.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 12:12:03 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Wow! I just noticed the same woman in the exact same sideless surcote and
> red underdress in three separate Memling Paintings.
> http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/religion/altar/
> Click on - Diptych1.jpg and then on Donne.jpg.

She is also in another painting, The Marriage of St. Catherine, I'm not sure
that it's even Memling.  This one I've seen in the Velvet book by Fabrizzio.
The nicest of them all I think.  Exact same dress and surcote.  Exact.
Amazing.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 12:22:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 13:35:30 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: hoop skirts
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com

 The cheapest hoops I've found are from chivalry sports, only $32.95.  Best 
for early civil war or elizabethan.  Check them out at:

<A HREF="http://renstore.com/undergarb.shtml">http://renstore.com/undergarb.sh
tml
</A>
Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 13:15:25 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 13:36:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Same Woman
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Sat, 9 Oct 1999, K & J Hopkins wrote:

> Wow! I just noticed the same woman in the exact same sideless surcote and
> red underdress in three separate Memling Paintings.

Memling placed the same St. Catherine in the Donne Triptych (1479, London,
National Gallery), the altarpiece for the Hospital of St. John in Bruges
(commissioned 1474, completed 1479, still in Bruges, where the hospital
now houses the Memling Museum), and a smaller Virgin & Child with Saints
at the Metropolitan Museum in New York (1480). The latter two pieces
depict the "mystic marriage" of St. Catherine. I'm guessing that these are
the same three paintings you're mentioning. 

The St. John altarpiece was generally considered Memling's finest work and
would have been seen by anyone coming to Bruges at that time.  Memling was
clearly very busy in the late 1470s, and it was quite routine at any major
painter's studio for donors to come in and say "I want something just like
X, but put in me and my family for the donors, and change the saints on
the wings to my patron saints." Or, "I can't afford a triptych. I'd like
just a panel, and squeeze me in on the side." That's probably the case
with the New York St. Catherine, which is almost a direct copy of the
center panel of the St. John altarpiece. In making the copy, Memling
removed two saints (St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangalist, both
patrons of the hospital), added a donor (off to the left, replacing a
sheep), and tripled the size of St. Barbara's tower (presumably to balance
the new donor compositionally -- Memling liked symmetry). He retained the
Virgin, Saints Catherine and Barbara, and two musical angels. Not only are
the Catherines identical, but so are the Barbaras (in green with a brown
mantle).

For the Donne triptych, he made additional changes in the composition,
mostly to place Donne, his wife, and their daughter directly in the front,
as central figures worshipping Mary. The mystic marriage is no longer
depicted, which frees Saints Catherine and Barbara to be moved behind,
escorting the Donne family, to the positions formerly occupied by the
Saints John & John. There are some other changes (details of the canopy,
the instruments carried by the angels). Barbara gets pin-on sleeves to her
green dress, and the virgin gets a brighter blue underdress. 

One thing that's important to remember about Catherine's sideless surcote
is that it was part of her iconography, not a representation of anything
worn in the 1470s. I have a lecture on this that's too long to repeat
here, but suffice it to say that the sideless surcote went out of fashion
almost a century earlier, having become reserved for royal ceremonial use,
and became frozen in art to depict ancient queens, particularly royal
saints, such as Catherine and Ursula. I've collected hundreds of St.
Catherines, and something like 90 percent of them are in sideless
surcotes; it was as much of an identifier for her as the wheel, crown, and
sword. By the time Memling and his contemporaries were painting Catherine,
painting styles were much more realistic than they were when sideless
surcotes were actually worn, and clothing construction methods had changed
considerably. Lacking any direct examples of *real* sideless surcotes,
they apparently painted these dresses as they assumed they would be made
if sewn by tailors of their own day, which bears little resemblance to the
way they had actually been made in the later 1300s for real people. I
would not be surprised if Memling had the dress made up as a costume for
his model, in which case it would have been easy enough to re-use -- or he
could have done it from imagination and then repainted it from the
previous paintings. 

> OK, why is Mary Magdelene portrayed as having sleeves that are often red or
> another color different from the dress?

A red dress or sleeves is iconographically associated with Mary Magdalene,
the former prostitute, as is exotic or flashy clothing. She was one of the
few saints that artists could legitimately dress sexy, and the only one of
those who routinely appears in scenes of Christ's life, so they "went to
town" with her. That tendency increased over the course of the 1400s.  Her
noticable presence and bright colors were very useful compositionally, to
balance other elements of the painting or to draw the eye in certain
directions. I've collected lots of Mary Magdalenes over the years too, and
if you place the Flemish depictions in a chronological line, you can
clearly trace her increasingly prominent placement in the compositions, as
well as increasing flashiness of her dress. (Yeah, it's another lecture.)
The most popular female Saints in the Middle Ages, after the Virgin Mary
of course, were Catherine and Mary Magdalene, so it's easy to find
examples, and artists had plenty of reason to codify their appearance for
easy identification -- and lots of opportunity to play with them. 

> Also who was Sisamnes?  There is a graphic painting of him being flayed in
> my new fabulous (OK, I probably paid too much for it) Bruges book.  The
> painting is called The Justice of Cambyses.  Again the people have that
> realistic look about them, even the guy being flayed.  I wasn't sure if it
> was allegorical in nature.

Not allegory so much as moral tale.  This is a pair of panel paintings
commissioned from Gerard David in 1498 for the alderman's room of the
Bruges City Hall. They now reside in the Groening Museum (just down the
street from the Memling Museum, and another good reason to visit Bruges,
along with lace and waffles). Sisamnes was a Persian judge who did some
heinous crime (I think took a bribe), and who was punished by being flayed
alive. The Bruges alderman chose that subject for their meeting hall as a
reminder for the city fathers to resist corruption. I could find further
details somewhere if someone needs them.

--Robin

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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business...some of my suggestions
Message-Id: <939670399.24395.797@excite.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 12:33:19 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> (laughing quietly to myself....)
> does it bother anyone that the words sewer (one who sews) and sewer
> (where all the ummm...waste material goes) are spelled the same?  

Which is exactly why I spell the one having to do with spot-welding fabric
together sew-er!

> All I
> could think of is an archeological dig at a waste water plant where one
> centuries from now, they examined all the clothing that was flushed down
> the toilet or eaten by the washing machine.

And how else are those who come after us to really know our tastes in
fashion? (Or lack thereof . . .) If it weren't for middins and the like,
we'd have nothing to go by for  . . . oh . . . lots of stuff that's slipped
my tiny mind at the moment! (The bananna in the Elizabethan privvy does
spring to the fore, however . . . strange . . . ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 14:51:30 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 13:08:31 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

>  http://gallery.euroweb.hu/art/m/memling/portrait/
> Then click on woman-lo.jpg or portinar.jpg
> What is the consensus on the collars on the dresses?  Are they sewn as a
> part of the dress or attached separately? The collars in these two
> portraits look to be made of fur and look as if they may be attached
> separately

Yes they are made of fur, the portraits are wonderful.  I would guess that
the gowns are lined and that the collar folds back or is attached in some
way.  If you look at the sleeves you will see a little bit of fur peeking
out from inside the gown.  This indicates to me that the gowns are lined.
But having never actually seen one extant, I am only guessing.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 16:35:18 1999
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From: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <617939F93346D1119D0E0060B01B0B56019AC0B5@ACT02EXC001> <37FAD891.2E115AB0@mediaone.net>
Subject: H-COST: Off-the-subject crisis
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 17:51:36 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica Pence" <antiquity@adelphia.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Sorry that this is off the subject, but I have tried to unsubscribe from =
the list and subscribe with my new email address unsuccessfully.  I =
followed the exact instructions given from my first error message.  I =
have tried it about 3 times.  I have written to the owner at this =
address
majordomo-owner@indra.com=20
with no response.  Can someone email me privately and help me figure =
this out?  I had no problem with any other list I am on. =20

Thanks,
Erica

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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 15:13:13 -0700
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From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Off-the-subject crisis
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

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=00m=00 =00"
>=00>=00m=00a=00j=00o=00r=00d=00o=00m=00o=00-=00o=00w=00n=00e=00r=00@=00i=00=
n=00d=00r=00a=00.=00c=00o=00m=00 =00 =00
>=00<=00/=00A=00>=00<=00/=00D=00I=00V=00>=00 =00 =00<=00D=00I=00V=00>=00w=00=
i=00t=00h=00 =00n=00o=00
>=00r=00e=00s=00p=00o=00n=00s=00e=00.=00&=00n=00b=00s=00p=00;=00 =00C=00a=00=
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>=00p=00r=00i=00v=00a=00t=00e=00l=00y=00 =00a=00n=00d=00 =00h=00e=00l=00p=00=
 =00m=00e=00 =00f=00i=00g=00u=00r=00e=00 =00 =00 =00t=00h=00i=00s=00
>=00o=00u=00t=00?=00&=00n=00b=00s=00p=00;=00 =00I=00 =00h=00a=00d=00 =00n=00=
o=00 =00p=00r=00o=00b=00l=00e=00m=00 =00w=00i=00t=00h=00 =00a=00n=00y=00
>=00o=00t=00h=00e=00r=00 =00l=00i=00s=00t=00 =00I=00 =00a=00m=00 =00o=00n=00=
=2E=00&=00n=00b=00s=00p=00;=00 =00<=00/=00D=00I=00V=00>=00 =00
>=00<=00D=00I=00V=00>=00&=00n=00b=00s=00p=00;=00<=00/=00D=00I=00V=00>=00 =00
>=00<=00D=00I=00V=00>=00T=00h=00a=00n=00k=00s=00,=00<=00/=00D=00I=00V=00>=00=
 =00
>=00<=00D=00I=00V=00>=00E=00r=00i=00c=00a=00<=00/=00D=00I=00V=00>=00<=00/=00=
B=00O=00D=00Y=00>=00<=00/=00H=00T=00M=00L=00>=00 =00 =00

Did anyone get this?  I got garbage and the title sounds desperate.

LynnD
--============_-1272442472==_ma============
Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable



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=00B=00O=00D=00Y=00>=00<<=00/=00H=00T=00M=00L=00>=00 =00 =00

</excerpt>

Did anyone get this?  I got garbage and the title sounds desperate.


LynnD

--============_-1272442472==_ma============--
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 17:01:27 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 17:21:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Off-the-subject crisis
In-Reply-To: <v04011700b4281164fcab@[172.19.1.106]>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>



On Mon, 11 Oct 1999, Lynn Downward wrote:

--clipped a bunch of garbage-- 
> > < D I V > E r i c a < / D I V > < / B O D Y > < / H T M L >     
> 
> Did anyone get this?  I got garbage and the title sounds desperate.

I got it.  The message was:

Sorry that this is off the subject, but I have tried to unsubscribe from 
the list and subscribe with my new email address unsuccessfully.  I 
followed the exact instructions given from my first error message.  I have
tried it about 3 times.  I have written to the owner at this address 
majordomo-owner@indra.com with no response.  Can someone email me 
privately and help me figure this out?
 I had no problem with any other list I am on.


I didn't reply, as I have no idea what is wrong.
Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 17:04:49 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 15:22:25 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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References: <617939F93346D1119D0E0060B01B0B56019AC0B5@ACT02EXC001>
	 <37FAD891.2E115AB0@mediaone.net> <v04011700b4281164fcab@[172.19.1.106]>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

I have received several posts over the weeks from that email address
with the exact same strange letters.  FWIW, Cynthia

>      ÿþ<
>
> Did anyone get this? I got garbage and the title sounds desperate.
>
> LynnD

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 17:08:13 1999
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Message-ID: <010a01bf1437$39de9af0$fe0110ac@akc.state.nv.us>
From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991011172014.11892F-100000@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Off-the-subject crisis
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 15:23:17 -0700
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> I didn't reply, as I have no idea what is wrong.
> Emma

After seeing the preious mesage with all the markup in it, I am willing to
bet the problem is that she is not sending the list commands in plain text.

Dan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 17:20:17 1999
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Message-ID: <3802668E.4A55CFCB@serv.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 15:37:03 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>, SCA Garb <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,
        Historic Needlework <H-Needlework@Ansteorra.ORG>
Subject: H-COST: So Proud!
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Please pardon the cross postings but I'm so happy!

Just have to brag on my friend Lady Liadain, one of our list friends.
She is the new Grand Champion of the Arts and Sciences for the Kingdom
of the Outlands.  Her entry was an absolutely lovely blackworked man's
shirt.  Completely hand sewn in linen with linen thread.  Her
documentation was impeccable, the design her own and none too easy,
the seams incrediblely finished, all french seams with a small pulled
work with each stitch.  Exquisite.  She'll try to pass some of the
kudos off on me, but believe me the Huzzah's go to her and her alone.

Cynthia/Merouda

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> > Which Velvet book?  Who's Fabrizzio?  (besides the author)
> > Always on the hunt for new books...
>
> Hope this works.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0962798517/qid=939682490/sr=1-6/002-4265448-3155432

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Mon, 11 Oct 1999, Dan Fenwick wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
> 
> > I didn't reply, as I have no idea what is wrong.
> > Emma
> 
> After seeing the preious mesage with all the markup in it, I am willing to
> bet the problem is that she is not sending the list commands in plain text.
> 
Yes, there have been quite a few posts to the list lately that haven't
been in plain text (or non-ASCII), which is a pain in the proverbial. My
mail reader can translate such things (with the application viewer!) but
it's a nuisance and I'm tempted not to bother...Please switch to plain 
text!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Wow! I wish I could hear your lectures, Robin.

I like that St. Catherine sideless surcote, too bad it's not real. I knew it 
was not right chronologically, but I do like the way it looks. Not right at 
all, though, huh?

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 19:11:48 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business...some of my suggestions
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 17:27:49 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>-Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>
>
>(laughing quietly to myself....)
>does it bother anyone that the words sewer (one who sews) and sewer
>(where all the ummm...waste material goes) are spelled the same?  All I
>could think of is an archeological dig at a waste water plant where one
>centuries from now, they examined all the clothing that was flushed down
>the toilet or eaten by the washing machine.


Yes, that is why I always write seamstress instead. It isn't as offensive to
the ears.
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 20:40:43 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 18:52:21 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business...some of my suggestions
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:35 AM 10/11/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>
>
>(laughing quietly to myself....)
>does it bother anyone that the words sewer (one who sews) and sewer
>(where all the ummm...waste material goes) are spelled the same?            

           Not really, but sewer is not a term I'd use for naming a person
who sews. :-)  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 20:41:04 1999
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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Off-the-subject crisis
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:10:49 -0400
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-Poster: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>

I, too,  have been trying desperately to get OFF this list.  I feel like the
old woman in the fairytale about the little pot that kept making porridge -
STOP little pot, STOP! A computer guru came to my house and couldn't get me
off. She, at least, explained to me that Major Domo wasn't a person.... I
really enjoy reading the great discussions on this list, but I need to move
it to another address for obvious reasons.

If anybody knows anything, please help.

Thanks!

PS  I don't know what "plain text" is.  Why wouldn't one have it?

----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Fenwick <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 1999 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Off-the-subject crisis


>
> -Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
>
> > I didn't reply, as I have no idea what is wrong.
> > Emma
>
> After seeing the preious mesage with all the markup in it, I am willing to
> bet the problem is that she is not sending the list commands in plain
text.
>
> Dan
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 20:49:02 1999
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From: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910111232.IAA11786@williams.tricreations.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE:Cleaning Machines 
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:18:39 -0400
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-Poster: "Martha Kelly" <marthakelly@erols.com>

I have greatly appreciated the sewing machine maintenance information from
Elisee,  who seems to know of what she speaks.

I've tried to find the Groz-Beckert or Sullivan's sewing machine needles she
recommended.  Clothilde - no, Nancy's Notions - no, Greenberg&Hammer - no,
Atlanta Thread - no,  Newark Dressmaker Supply - no. Where can I get them?

Thanks.


----- Original Message -----
From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 1999 9:43 AM
Subject: H-COST: RE:Cleaning Machines


>
> -Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
>
> The biggest problem with canned air is that if the can has been shaken or
> is not perfectly vertical the can will dispense propellant along with the
> air into the machine.  The propellant will in many years pit the parts.
> In professional repair shops we use an air tank that puts out a much
> higher power jet of air (120 pounds) but is safe because there is no
> propellant.  We refill the tank when it gets low, or some huge shops
> simply have a compressor.
>
> Try this to prove it to yourself.  Shake your can of air and *poof* it on
> your hand.  Then spray it out into the air a time or two and do it again.
>  You shuld feel a _wet_ cold burst the first time, simply air the second.
>
>
> Take out as much lint and gunk as possible with a paper towel or
> mini-vacuum before you use the air, and it minimizes the lint getting
> into where you don't want it (like foofed back into your face).  Remember
> there can be needle tips or pin tips if you've had collisions, so you
> don't want those flying up into your eyes.
>
> I just had a machine brought to me with so much lint under the needle
> plate that the feed dogs couldn't rise at all - she thought she had
> jammed her machine for good.
>
> Lisee
>
> Beth wrote:
>
> >
> >-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> >
> >>
> >> One of the things I do is keep a can of compressed air by the machine
so
> >> that every time I change the bobbin I remember to clean out the
> >> machine.  It's easy to just 'spritz' the bobbin compartment before you
> >> put the bobbin back in.
> >
> >Back when the canned air was first really "big" a sewing machine
repairman
> > a good one) told me never to use it. Canned air would push a certain
amount
> >of lint & dirt deeper into the machine, eventually causing more problems.
I
> >use the same small vacuum attachments as I use for my computer to clean
my
> >machines.
> >
> >Beth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 21:00:09 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:23:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Robin's lectures
In-Reply-To: <0.bbf933e9.2533d53c@aol.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Mon, 11 Oct 1999 Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:

> Wow! I wish I could hear your lectures, Robin.

Me too. It would save me a lot of typing ;-)

I've done most of these at Kalamazoo over the last dozen or so years. 
Some of them required elaborate display that would be hard to reproduce,
and some were done tandem with my partner Verna Rutz. But a few of them
can stand alone, and I occasionally re-run those for other groups. I can't
do this much, as my travel time is limited (I work, and I have two small
children). 

It's also awkward that the gowns I use for visual display are scattered to
the four winds, in the possession of various people who have been kind
enough to serve as models. Audiences that are more interested in
construction usually want to see fully made costumes, not just a slide
show. I'm hoping to re-make a few more outfits for myself in future, so I
can tour more of the talks without having to depend on people's good
nature to UPS me my display materials.

> I like that St. Catherine sideless surcote, too bad it's not real. I
> knew it was not right chronologically, but I do like the way it looks.
> Not right at all, though, huh? 

Not at all. In fact, it might not even be make-able; in practice, if you
cut the bodice like that, the heavy skirt will pull the side openings out
of shape.

--Robin



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 21:37:56 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: nipples & breasts showing
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 16:22:19 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

In some art forms, Flemmish & etc from my very dulled memory, an exposed
breast was a signification of maidenhood - for instance, the Madonna is
often portrayed with one hanging out.

Oh, for a return to ye olden dayes!

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 22:04:02 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 22:18:35 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: nipples & breasts showing
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
>
>In some art forms, Flemmish & etc from my very dulled memory, an exposed
>breast was a signification of maidenhood - for instance, the Madonna is
>often portrayed with one hanging out.
>
>Oh, for a return to ye olden dayes!

:)

There's a detailed discussion of single bare-breastedness (that is, one
breast showing) in art in Anne Hollander's _Seeing Through Clothes_.  She
traces it from Greek statuary to 14th Madonnas through the 18th century and
analyzes its changing significance.  For Greeks, fashion, for Madonnas,
maternity, for later periods sensuality and even "a look of instability,
useful for connoting terror or license or devotional zeal." (!)  (p. 191)

I haven't re-read the whole section, but the entire book is very
intriguing--Hollander analyzes through art history different ways of
portraying the body, dressed and undressed, and how those related to each
other and the viewers in each context.

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 22:04:17 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 20:16:29 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: H-COST: Same Woman]
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 03:59 PM 10/11/1999 -0700, you wrote: -Poster: Merouda the True of
Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
 Which Velvet book? 
           That one, I cannot help with.
 Who's Fabrizzio? 
           Not an author, one of those Italian artists...Ren., I believe.
-- Carol 
 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 22:10:55 1999
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: H-COST: Same Woman]
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 03:59 PM 10/11/1999 -0700, you wrote: -Poster: Merouda the True of
Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net> Which Velvet book?  Who's Fabrizzio?  (besides
the author)
>>
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0962798517/qid=939682490/sr=1-6/002-4
265448-3155432
      My apologies to Merouda/Cynthia et al.  I should have clicked first
and typed after.  There was an artist named Fabrizzio, however. :-)  The
url takes one to the book's biblio info and cites the author as Fabrizio de
Marinis.  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 22:36:35 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Same Woman
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:59:22 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Woo Woo!!! Thank you Robin!!!!

Kathlene

> -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> 
> 
> On Sat, 9 Oct 1999, K & J Hopkins wrote:
> 
> > Wow! I just noticed the same woman in the exact same sideless surcote
and
> > red underdress in three separate Memling Paintings.
> 
> Memling placed the same St. Catherine in the Donne Triptych (1479,
London,
> National Gallery), the altarpiece for the Hospital of St. John in Bruges
> (commissioned 1474, completed 1479, still in Bruges, where the hospital
> now houses the Memling Museum), and a smaller Virgin & Child with Saints
> at the Metropolitan Museum in New York (1480). The latter two pieces
> depict the "mystic marriage" of St. Catherine. I'm guessing that these
are
> the same three paintings you're mentioning. 
> 
> The St. John altarpiece was generally considered Memling's finest work
and
> would have been seen by anyone coming to Bruges at that time.  Memling
was
> clearly very busy in the late 1470s, and it was quite routine at any
major
> painter's studio for donors to come in and say "I want something just
like
> X, but put in me and my family for the donors, and change the saints on
> the wings to my patron saints." Or, "I can't afford a triptych. I'd like
> just a panel, and squeeze me in on the side." That's probably the case
> with the New York St. Catherine, which is almost a direct copy of the
> center panel of the St. John altarpiece. In making the copy, Memling
> removed two saints (St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangalist,
both
> patrons of the hospital), added a donor (off to the left, replacing a
> sheep), and tripled the size of St. Barbara's tower (presumably to
balance
> the new donor compositionally -- Memling liked symmetry). He retained the
> Virgin, Saints Catherine and Barbara, and two musical angels. Not only
are
> the Catherines identical, but so are the Barbaras (in green with a brown
> mantle).
> 
> For the Donne triptych, he made additional changes in the composition,
> mostly to place Donne, his wife, and their daughter directly in the
front,
> as central figures worshipping Mary. The mystic marriage is no longer
> depicted, which frees Saints Catherine and Barbara to be moved behind,
> escorting the Donne family, to the positions formerly occupied by the
> Saints John & John. There are some other changes (details of the canopy,
> the instruments carried by the angels). Barbara gets pin-on sleeves to
her
> green dress, and the virgin gets a brighter blue underdress. 
> 
> One thing that's important to remember about Catherine's sideless surcote
> is that it was part of her iconography, not a representation of anything
> worn in the 1470s. I have a lecture on this that's too long to repeat
> here, but suffice it to say that the sideless surcote went out of fashion
> almost a century earlier, having become reserved for royal ceremonial
use,
> and became frozen in art to depict ancient queens, particularly royal
> saints, such as Catherine and Ursula. I've collected hundreds of St.
> Catherines, and something like 90 percent of them are in sideless
> surcotes; it was as much of an identifier for her as the wheel, crown,
and
> sword. By the time Memling and his contemporaries were painting
Catherine,
> painting styles were much more realistic than they were when sideless
> surcotes were actually worn, and clothing construction methods had
changed
> considerably. Lacking any direct examples of *real* sideless surcotes,
> they apparently painted these dresses as they assumed they would be made
> if sewn by tailors of their own day, which bears little resemblance to
the
> way they had actually been made in the later 1300s for real people. I
> would not be surprised if Memling had the dress made up as a costume for
> his model, in which case it would have been easy enough to re-use -- or
he
> could have done it from imagination and then repainted it from the
> previous paintings. 
> 
> > OK, why is Mary Magdelene portrayed as having sleeves that are often
red or
> > another color different from the dress?
> 
> A red dress or sleeves is iconographically associated with Mary
Magdalene,
> the former prostitute, as is exotic or flashy clothing. She was one of
the
> few saints that artists could legitimately dress sexy, and the only one
of
> those who routinely appears in scenes of Christ's life, so they "went to
> town" with her. That tendency increased over the course of the 1400s. 
Her
> noticable presence and bright colors were very useful compositionally, to
> balance other elements of the painting or to draw the eye in certain
> directions. I've collected lots of Mary Magdalenes over the years too,
and
> if you place the Flemish depictions in a chronological line, you can
> clearly trace her increasingly prominent placement in the compositions,
as
> well as increasing flashiness of her dress. (Yeah, it's another lecture.)
> The most popular female Saints in the Middle Ages, after the Virgin Mary
> of course, were Catherine and Mary Magdalene, so it's easy to find
> examples, and artists had plenty of reason to codify their appearance for
> easy identification -- and lots of opportunity to play with them. 
> 
> > Also who was Sisamnes?  There is a graphic painting of him being flayed
in
> > my new fabulous (OK, I probably paid too much for it) Bruges book.  The
> > painting is called The Justice of Cambyses.  Again the people have that
> > realistic look about them, even the guy being flayed.  I wasn't sure if
it
> > was allegorical in nature.
> 
> Not allegory so much as moral tale.  This is a pair of panel paintings
> commissioned from Gerard David in 1498 for the alderman's room of the
> Bruges City Hall. They now reside in the Groening Museum (just down the
> street from the Memling Museum, and another good reason to visit Bruges,
> along with lace and waffles). Sisamnes was a Persian judge who did some
> heinous crime (I think took a bribe), and who was punished by being
flayed
> alive. The Bruges alderman chose that subject for their meeting hall as a
> reminder for the city fathers to resist corruption. I could find further
> details somewhere if someone needs them.
> 
> --Robin
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 22:38:57 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 22:51:57 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: OT: Neiman Marcus
In-Reply-To: <E11asZj-0002m3-00@mongoose.slip.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Ok ladies, tomorrow morning at 730 ct or so the project that I have been
working on all this time will finally come up for public view. I need your
creative help. Look at it and send me your comments.

http://www.neimanmarcus.com

I need to know what you think of it creatively and what you are viewing it
in and how long it take to look at it in what kind of connection.

Thanks for your time!

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 22:40:35 1999
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From: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: nipples & breasts showing
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

Could someone who is knowledgeable please comment on figures 178 and 179
in QE's Wardrobe Unlock'd?  They're drawings showing a French woman
(c.1566) where the top of the bodice is completely below the breasts.
Her breasts and nipples are showing--artistic license?  

Also, what is the opening down the center front?  If it's the
smock/partlet, wouldn't it end inside the bodice where you couldn't see
it?  Even if the lady has her headpiece, girdle, gloves, etc. she gives me
the impression of not being fully dressed.

lisa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 23:06:29 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 00:37:09 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: no Zoot Suit patterns amywhere!!!
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

So I went down to my local cloth store to look for the Zoot Suit patterns
someone said Vogue had - and nothing!  I found the vintage section and the
men's section, but no Zoot Suit anywhere.  Butterick didn't have one (not
in their retro or men's or costume sections), Simplicity didn't have one,
and McCalls didn't have one.  So refresh my memory.  Where were these
patterns to be found?


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 23:06:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 00:28:38 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Same Woman
In-Reply-To: <199910100502.XAA18520@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>Wow! I just noticed the same woman in the exact same sideless surcote and
>red underdress in three separate Memling Paintings.

There's a yellow bodice with black trim in what seems like half of
Vermeer's paintings.  He must have had it in his studio as a prop.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 23:16:16 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 23:22:15 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Tryptich
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>Memling placed the same St. Catherine in the Donne Triptych (1479, London,
>National Gallery), the altarpiece for the Hospital of St. John in Bruges
>(commissioned 1474, completed 1479, still in Bruges, where the hospital
>now houses the Memling Museum), and a smaller Virgin & Child with Saints
>at the Metropolitan Museum in New York (1480). The latter two pieces
>depict the "mystic marriage" of St. Catherine. I'm guessing that these are
>the same three paintings you're mentioning. 
>
>The St. John altarpiece was generally considered Memling's finest work and
>would have been seen by anyone coming to Bruges at that time.  Memling was
>clearly very busy in the late 1470s,.....

IIRC, There was a very nice article about Memling and the art in the former
Hospital of St. John in Bruges in last month's (Sept. 99) Smithsonian
magazine.  It might be easier to find in most libraries than some of the
books it might be in.

The art is gorgeous.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 11 23:48:19 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: H-COST: Same Woman]
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:29:34 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

I can help with this one:

"Velvet History Techniques Fashions" Edited by Fabrizio de' Marinis
ISBN 88-7017-115-9 (European)
ISBN 0-9627985-1-7 (US)

  Published by Idea Books

I have it and it is good source.

Gia/Giacinta 

>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>At 03:59 PM 10/11/1999 -0700, you wrote: -Poster: Merouda the True of
>Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> Which Velvet book? 
>           That one, I cannot help with.
> Who's Fabrizzio? 
>           Not an author, one of those Italian artists...Ren., I believe.
>-- Carol 
> 
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 00:18:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 01:36:30 -0400
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Found Vogue's 2367- Men's Zoot suit, at Jo-Ann's this weekend.  On sale
also!  I think it was in the catalog with women's swing outfits.  Can't
remember if that was under vintage or not, but I don't think I looked
under costumes in that book.  It looks too straight in the torso line
for what I remembered from the past.  The jacket needs more shoulders
and less waist, I think.
The wonderful Elizabethan was sold out there, of course.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 00:24:40 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 22:50:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business...some of my suggestions
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-Poster: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>


> >
> >-Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>
> >
> >(laughing quietly to myself....)
> >does it bother anyone that the words sewer (one who
> sews) and sewer
> >(where all the ummm...waste material goes) are
> spelled the same?  

I must tell you, when I saw this response, I fell off
my chair in a total fit of laughter, primarily because
I should know better.  You see, my DH was a *waste
water plant operator* for two small towns.  The
archeologists of the future will have a grand time
digging in our own versions of bogs--the clothes that
turn up are pretty interesting. (No, he didn't bring
me any samples!)
Now when my friends tell me I'm a great "sewer" I'll
try not to be offended or giggle.  :)

Thanks for the laugh, 

Jonna        
> 
>            

=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 00:26:30 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 22:52:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business...some of my suggestions
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-Poster: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>


> >
> >-Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>
> >
> >(laughing quietly to myself....)
> >does it bother anyone that the words sewer (one who
> sews) and sewer
> >(where all the ummm...waste material goes) are
> spelled the same?  

I must tell you, when I saw this response, I fell off
my chair in a total fit of laughter, primarily because
I should know better.  You see, my DH was a *waste
water plant operator* for two small towns.  The
archeologists of the future will have a grand time
digging in our own versions of bogs--the clothes that
turn up are pretty interesting. (No, he didn't bring
me any samples!)
Now when my friends tell me I'm a great "sewer" I'll
try not to be offended or giggle.  :)

Thanks for the laugh, 

Jonna        
> 
>            

=====

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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 00:37:42 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.1.19991008003307.00c00b40@pop.slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: New Zoot Pant and Celtic Patterns WAS Re: no Zoot Suit patterns amywhere!!!
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 01:34:08 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Actually, there is one that on first glance at the pattern, appears to have
a really good set of Zoot pants. There is also another that if the lapels
are widened and lengthened, makes a decent jacket.

I'm trying in the next few days to update the reviews and also add the new
Simplicity "Retro" pattern #8952. It's designed by outside sources (Hep Wear
by Angie & Roddy). The other pattern is also of the Retro group but is not
considered a costume and I'm currently too tired and lazy to travel to the
shop to get the number ;)

I'll also be putting up pics and descriptions of the new Celtic pattern
#8913 for men. This is not a top notch kilt, but it looks like it might work
for a novice who just wants the look and not the expense or time to make one
to rule. I haven't looked at either of these well yet.

Hope this information helps someone ;)

~Kyna

Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing Supplies and Accessories
info@granndgarb.com
http://GranndGarb.com
ICQ#12859312

----- Original Message -----
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 08, 1999 3:37 AM
Subject: H-COST: no Zoot Suit patterns amywhere!!!


>
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
> So I went down to my local cloth store to look for the Zoot Suit patterns
> someone said Vogue had - and nothing!  I found the vintage section and the
> men's section, but no Zoot Suit anywhere.  Butterick didn't have one (not
> in their retro or men's or costume sections), Simplicity didn't have one,
> and McCalls didn't have one.  So refresh my memory.  Where were these
> patterns to be found?
>
>
> Kayta
>      ////.\\\
>     ////-@@\\\
>    ((((   7 (((
>      |   -- ))))
>      * )   (((((
>   /----\   /---\
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 06:57:02 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: nipples & breasts showing
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Could someone who is knowledgeable please comment on figures 178 and 179
> in QE's Wardrobe Unlock'd?  They're drawings showing a French woman
> (c.1566) where the top of the bodice is completely below the breasts.
> Her breasts and nipples are showing--artistic license?  

Whereas the top of the breast seems to be below the breast, it is 
more likely that the breasts were pulled down into it. No nipples 
show. At first, I thought so until I realized that what was a nipple 
was actually the tie from her sleeve caps. (Either that or she has 
nipples at other places on her sleeve.)

> Also, what is the opening down the center front?  If it's the
> smock/partlet, wouldn't it end inside the bodice where you couldn't see
> it?  Even if the lady has her headpiece, girdle, gloves, etc. she gives me
> the impression of not being fully dressed.

The chemise/partlet has a front opening, but there is a necklace 
overlying it which goes partway down onto the bodice itself which 
sort of looks like an opening until you look closely at it. (The 
opening is obviously at the back. It's one of our best pictures of a 
back laced gown.)

The outfit is quite simple in design and fabric ornamentation 
compared to many clothes of the time period. I always consider this 
to be "everyday" dress, as opposed to court dress.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 07:23:07 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Costume DC" <costumedc@onelist.com>, "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Deadline Call for Papers
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 08:40:52 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Just a reminder that the deadline for the call for papers for Costume
Society of America is this Friday, Oct. 15.  For more information go to
http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/Symposium/Call.htm

Penny Ladnier
Webmaster,  CSA

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Subject: Re: H-COST: nipples & breasts showing
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
>
>Could someone who is knowledgeable please comment on figures 178 and 179
>in QE's Wardrobe Unlock'd?  They're drawings showing a French woman
>(c.1566) where the top of the bodice is completely below the breasts.
>Her breasts and nipples are showing--artistic license?

I've always thought it looked like her breasts were showing, too, and I
think it's because the lines of the engraving (perhaps not the proper
technical term) seem to follow a curve around them, especially on her right
breast.  Not that that means her breasts are actually meant to be
showing--though I'm not sure I'm convinced about that being a sleeve tie
and not a nipple.

>  Even if the lady has her headpiece, girdle, gloves, etc. she gives me
>the impression of not being fully dressed.

Me, too.  I've always struggled with this picture, but the evidence seems
overwhelming (headdress, apron, gloves, pomander) that it's actually meant
to represent a fully-clad woman.  Is Enea Vico (the artist) perhaps Italian
and making a snide comment on the licentiousness of Frenchwomen?

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 08:26:11 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Czarist Russian Uniforms
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

Can anyone help me?  My theatre is doing a production of Checkhov's Three 
Sisters and the deal that I have arranged to rent the uniforms from New York 
has fallen through.  If you work for a costume rental house or if you're a 
employed by a theatre and might have them in your stock, I would be 
interested in hearing from you.  Recreating uniforms accurately is a royal 
pain and I'm dealing with a shop full of poorly skilled students and a 
deadline that is rapidly approaching (Nov. 24).  Thanks ahead of time.  
Cheryl Odom, Costume Designer, Santa Fe, New Mexico
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 09:27:38 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Neiman Marcus
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-Poster: ches@io.com

I am so sorry for offending many of you.

All opinions are welcome, including the male population of the list!!

One of these days I will be politically correct...

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 10:32:15 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 08:48:46 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

>  Which Velvet book?
>            That one, I cannot help with.
>  Who's Fabrizzio?
>            Not an author, one of those Italian artists...Ren., I believe.

Fabrizzio most certainly is an author.  Of a 20th century book.  Velvet,
History and Techniques.  I posted the info on the book yesterday.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 10:56:34 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 09:11:44 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: no Zoot Suit patterns amywhere!!!
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
>So I went down to my local cloth store to look for the Zoot Suit patterns
>someone said Vogue had - and nothing!  I found the vintage section and the
>men's section, but no Zoot Suit anywhere.  Butterick didn't have one (not
>in their retro or men's or costume sections), Simplicity didn't have one,
>and McCalls didn't have one.  So refresh my memory.  Where were these
>patterns to be found?
>
>
I just bought it last week at Joann's.  The zoot suit pattern is in the
men's section of the newest book, V 2367.  Really! It may be that your
Joann's has had their run on Vogue patterns as they're on sale for 70% off
for the next couple of weeks.  There were lots of copies at my local store.

LynnD
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 12:20:37 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: nipples & breasts showing
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< There's a detailed discussion of single bare-breastedness (that is, one
 breast showing) in art in Anne Hollander's _Seeing Through Clothes_.  She
 traces it from Greek statuary to 14th Madonnas through the 18th century and
 analyzes its changing significance.  For Greeks, fashion, for Madonnas,
 maternity, for later periods sensuality and even "a look of instability,
 useful for connoting terror or license or devotional zeal." (!)  (p. 191) >>

What comes immediately to mind here is the symbol of France, the lady with 
her breast(s) exposed, carrying a flag, leading the troups, etc.

Nancy
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

*The sewer sat in the sewer*  The Smithsonian called them *heteronyms*, but
I now find that they are being called*homographs* in England. We used to
find them and make up sentences like *Art objects to art objects!*
If anyone is really interested in this problem in the English language where
a word can have 2 spellings and 2 meanings you can check it out at a
wonderful site I recently found
http://www.stir.ac.uk/celt/staff/higdox/wordlist/homogrph.htm
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business...some of my suggestions
>Date: Mon, Oct 11, 1999, 5:27 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
>>-Poster: Megan & David Schmidt <megan@airmail.net>
>>
>>(laughing quietly to myself....)
>>does it bother anyone that the words sewer (one who sews) and sewer
>>(where all the ummm...waste material goes) are spelled the same?  All I
>>could think of is an archeological dig at a waste water plant where one
>>centuries from now, they examined all the clothing that was flushed down
>>the toilet or eaten by the washing machine.
>
>
>Yes, that is why I always write seamstress instead. It isn't as offensive
to
>the ears.
>Michelle
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 12:12:59 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: detailed discussion of clothing in art
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 10:25:37 -0700
Message-ID: <000001bf14d6$cef8c530$6b037a86@phoenix.com>
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>

>There's a detailed discussion of single bare-breastedness (that is, one
breast showing) in art in Anne Hollander's _Seeing Through Clothes_.

A very nifty volume covering a similar topic specifically for illuminated
manuscripts is Odile Blanc's _Parades et Parures_.  It may well have been
translated in to English. Dr. Blanc works at the Musee de Tissue in Lyon.
She specifically emphases mid 14thc thru 15th c garments, w/ an emphasis,
unsurprisingly, on France.

>... the entire book is very intriguing--Hollander analyzes through art
history different ways of portraying the body, dressed and undressed, and
how those related to each other and the viewers in each context.

I would say the same about Dr Blanc's book. She specifically covers such
topics as how to distinguish the allegorical, exotic or fantastic from the
real people, conventions of dress & undress, every day dress vs. ritual
garments (wedding, funeral, coronation, baptism, etc) and symbolism.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 12:13:55 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Subscription problem
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-Poster: Lyssa@mgram.com

Hello,

Sorry to bother the list with this, but I'm looking for the list owner.
My email address changed and after following the directions for
unsubscribing and resubscribing to the digest I have a problem.  The
resubscribe was successful, but because my address wasn't the same as
the one I was unsubscribing, that failed.  I am now receiving 2 copies
of each digest.  I tried emailing the address for the list owner in one
of my saved messages, but haven't received a response.  I think the
address was probably wrong.  Does anyone have the list owner's address?

Thanks!
Maggie

lyssa@mgram.com  (formerly lyssa@kktv.com)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 12:23:05 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 10:42:06 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: minikin patterns
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I was looking thru my boxes of older patterns, and I discovered some
'minikin' patterns.  Minikins were those mini-manikins fabric stores used
to dress in small versions of the dresses for which they sold patterns,
right?  If so, are the minikins themselves still available in antique
stores?  As in, has anyone seen one?  How tall were they?  (I forget - 18"
or 24" sounds about right.)


Kayta
     ////.\\\
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     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 12:23:15 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 10:22:26 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: no Zoot Suit patterns amywhere!!!
In-Reply-To: <v04011700b4290da74187@[172.19.1.106]>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>>So I went down to my local cloth store to look for the Zoot Suit patterns
>>someone said Vogue had - and nothing!  I found the vintage section and the
>>men's section, but no Zoot Suit anywhere.  Butterick didn't have one (not
>>in their retro or men's or costume sections), Simplicity didn't have one,
>>and McCalls didn't have one.  So refresh my memory.  Where were these
>>patterns to be found?
>>
>>
>I just bought it last week at Joann's.  The zoot suit pattern is in the
>men's section of the newest book, V 2367.  Really! It may be that your
>Joann's has had their run on Vogue patterns as they're on sale for 70% off
>for the next couple of weeks.  There were lots of copies at my local store.

I too was at a JoAnn's, and I didn't find any Zoot Suit-like objects in
their catalog.  None of their pattern catalogs had them.  My friend
couldn't find them either.  I did not go thru all the patterns they had in
the drawers because my Sweetie was waiting for us.

I will take all the replies I got, mine them for pattern numbers, and try
again.

I really liked how Butterick had re-used the original pattern
illustrations.  Almost made me want to be scrawny-thin, and make some of
the garments to wear.  Problem is my bones aren't that narrow, hips or
ribs.  Barbie's scrawny-thin enough to look like a pattern envelope person,
and her legs are long enough.

Vogue had some wonderfully correct historical doll clothes, and some not so
good ones.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 12:43:10 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 14:00:36 -0400
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I believe they were supposed to be half the measurement size of the
average woman, so about 30"+ would seem right.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 13:10:53 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.1.19991008003307.00c00b40@pop.slip.net> <4.1.19991012101205.00c0d900@pop.slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: no Zoot Suit patterns amywhere!!!
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 14:05:55 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>


> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
> I too was at a JoAnn's, and I didn't find any Zoot Suit-like objects in
> their catalog.  None of their pattern catalogs had them.  My friend
> couldn't find them either.  I did not go thru all the patterns they had in
> the drawers because my Sweetie was waiting for us.
>

My Joann's got the book and patterns in yesterday but they were still in the
boxes ::grins:: I'm so known I was allowed to open and peak. The Rag Shop
across the highway didn't have the new WINTER Simplicity book or
patterns....*BUT* the Rag Shop closer to my house *HAD* the new Winter
catalog *AND* the patterns.  Keep checking, your store just hasn't received
the new shipment from Simplicity yet, but should any day.

It's pattern #8952 from the Retro Costume Collection. The other one I
mentioned in a different email is pattern #8879 from the Retro Fashion
Collection. The second has pretty good pants and a jacket that has a less
flamboyant lapel than some I've seen, but does match some old photos I've
dug up.

~Kyna

--
Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing Supplies and Accessories
http://granndgarb.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 14:48:54 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: minikin patterns
Message-Id: <939758107.9118.199@excite.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 12:55:07 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> 
> I was looking thru my boxes of older patterns, and I discovered some
> 'minikin' patterns.  Minikins were those mini-manikins fabric stores used
> to dress in small versions of the dresses for which they sold patterns,
> right?  If so, are the minikins themselves still available in antique
> stores?  As in, has anyone seen one?  How tall were they?  (I forget -
18"
> or 24" sounds about right.)

I have seen something similar in high-end gift shops. Seems miniature sewing
bits are becoming 'fashionable' as a decorating item. (Which doesn't bother
ME in the slightest! ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Funny Looks (was Re: H-COST: no Zoot Suit patterns amywhere!!!)
Message-Id: <939758361.24793.377@excite.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 12:59:21 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> My Joann's got the book and patterns in yesterday but they were still in
the
> boxes ::grins:: I'm so known I was allowed to open and peak. The Rag Shop
> across the highway didn't have the new WINTER Simplicity book or
> patterns....*BUT* the Rag Shop closer to my house *HAD* the new Winter
> catalog *AND* the patterns.  Keep checking, your store just hasn't
received
> the new shipment from Simplicity yet, but should any day.

I've been so happy with the information on this list, the pattern numbers
being only a small part of it. But this 'inside info' has gotten me some odd
looks from the staff at my favorite local fabric shops. Seems *I* have the
information about the coming patterns before they do! 

Thank you all!

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 14:10:35 -0600 (MDT)
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From: Julie Brautigan <jab@uwm.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: minikin patterns
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-Poster: Julie Brautigan <jab@uwm.edu>


This sounds like a small mannekin a friend of mine gave me about 15 years
ago.  I believe he said it found it in an antique store.  It is about 18"
tall, has a composition body, and the only parts that move are the arms.  I
don't remember if the hair is molded or not.  I believe he said something
about it being a "dressmaker's mannekin".

Julie Brautigan

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
> I was looking thru my boxes of older patterns, and I discovered some
> 'minikin' patterns.  Minikins were those mini-manikins fabric stores used
> to dress in small versions of the dresses for which they sold patterns,
> right?  If so, are the minikins themselves still available in antique
> stores?  As in, has anyone seen one?  How tall were they?  (I forget - 18"
> or 24" sounds about right.)
>
> Kayta

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 15:17:03 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 16:35:44 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 17th Century Groups (long)
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

Someone asked me for addresses for 17th century groups, so
for folks less familiar with the US reenactor scene, I suggest...

"Smoke and Fire News" a monthly "international listing of
living history events."  Their address is P.O. Box 166,
Grand Rapids, Ohio  43522 (USA).  

It's small newspaper format and my October issue was 48 pages
including many b&w photos of costumed folks from various events. 
They cover all periods, including timeline events from Roman to the 
Gulf War.  There are several pages of ads in the back, some with 
websites, to peruse period reproduction items and services for purchase.

For the "Cavalier period" five organizations are listed under the 
heading: 17th Century Living History Organizations.  They are:

Cavalier Association (17th century)
Mark & Jennie Gist
46 Fallis Road
Columbus, OH 43214  USA
e-mail:  73357.3446@compuserve.com
  (I belong to this group.  I don't know the other groups.)

Brethren of the Coast
"Pirate Portrayals"
Patricia Atkinson
2211 N. Cahuenga Blvd. #203
Los Angeles, CA  90068-2775  USA

The Modern Aviso
subscription $9 per year
Leigh Tartaglio
1 Evergreen Ave.
E.H.T., N. J.  08234-7244  USA
e-mail: aviso@dandy.net

Hapsburg Society
Chuck Young
212 W. Eueka St.
Champaign, IL  61820-2932  USA

No Quarter Given
Pirate Newsletter
c/o Christine Markel Lampe
PO Box 7456
Riverside, CA 92513-7456  USA
(909) 785-1233

There may be others out there who don't list themselves in Smoke & Fire
but I bet the people who list their groups could tell you.
S&F lists international events but the coverage for the US is better.
The Oct. issue has short articles and pictures for reenactments at
Kalamazoo, Culloden '99, "Lee vs. Grant" [American CW], Southern California 
Renaissance Pleasure Faire, Tewkesbury, Colonial Williamburg, Battle of 
New Orleans, Rendezvous in the Rouge, Seven Year's War, Yorktown, 
Mississinewa 1812, Rockome Gardens Pow Wow, and the Wyatt Earp Birthplace.

I don't have any affiliation with them but I'm a satisfied subscriber.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 15:19:49 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "VGP list" <VGP@onelist.com>
Cc: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>, "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>,
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Subject: H-COST: Worm Virus
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 16:20:31 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Sorry for the bulk posting, but this is very important!

PLEASE do not open any email with attachments that read....

"I hope you enjoy these links."  in the body area of the email.

DELETE the message immediately.

This is the worm virus, and it just hit one of the large lists I am on.  I
received 6 messages today with the virus from this one email list.  I did
not open them.  If you do open the attachment, the virus is passed on to
everyone in your address book, including the lists you are on.  Maybe our
listmom might consider moderating the list carefully for this message.

Its a good day to back up your files.

Please be cautious...  Penny Ladnier




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 15:37:18 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 15:17:56 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Name My Business...some of my suggestions
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>


>>the toilet or eaten by the washing machine.
>
>Maybe they could solve the mystery of Where The Socks Go....

Didn't you know?  They get transformed into metal hangers.  ;)

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 15:44:10 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 16:03:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: minikin patterns (fwd)
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


My mother, the doll collector, has this to say:

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 16:55:53 -0400
From: Tish Lehman <pvl@umich.edu>
To: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: minikin patterns (fwd)

Besides being used in the stores to illustrate clothes (just as Buddy Lee
was used to illustrate for work clothes since 1914), they were also sold
for little girls to learn to sew with. The 18" size is so much easier to
sew for than the 12", which is much better than the 8" hard plastic ones.

I don't see them often, but when I have, they've been cheap enough for even
me to afford.  I have owned an 18" one (with arms) that I regret selling,
and now have the 12" one, which isn't quite as cool.   Except I do like the
14C twist her body makes.  Look at the Virgin statues, and you'll see what
I mean.  Shoulders, waist, hips, knees, each a gentle turn from the line of
the head.   

She recently showed up in Ursula Mertz's book on compo dolls accompanied by
the original box.  I can't remember the exact name (the book's at home) but
the 12" one had a name like Sally McCall or Alice McCall.  She was, of
course, sold in a little cardboard suitcase with some scraps of trim and
cloth and a McCall's pattern.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 15:54:53 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 16:14:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Worm Virus
In-Reply-To: <00e901bf14ef$3dcdcce0$3bf4accf@e4c2n6>
Message-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991012161108.14668N-100000@bigred.unl.edu>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


This reads like a hoax, but I couldn't find it on any of my usual sources
for internet hoaxes.  I did however find this:
http://www.stiller.com/explorer.htm

It discribes and explains a *real* virus, similar to the one discribed
previously under this subject heading.  

The important thing to remember is to never open executable attachments 
you didn't specifically request, even if they're from a friend.

Hope this helped, and didn't just contribute to the vast supply of
existing spam.
Emma


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 16:02:19 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 14:17:28 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: minikin patterns (fwd)
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
>
>
>My mother, the doll collector, has this to say:
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 16:55:53 -0400
>From: Tish Lehman <pvl@umich.edu>
>To: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: minikin patterns (fwd)
>
>Besides being used in the stores to illustrate clothes (just as Buddy Lee
>was used to illustrate for work clothes since 1914), they were also sold
>for little girls to learn to sew with. The 18" size is so much easier to
>sew for than the 12", which is much better than the 8" hard plastic ones.
>
>I don't see them often, but when I have, they've been cheap enough for even
>me to afford.  I have owned an 18" one (with arms) that I regret selling,
>and now have the 12" one, which isn't quite as cool.   Except I do like the
>14C twist her body makes.  Look at the Virgin statues, and you'll see what
>I mean.  Shoulders, waist, hips, knees, each a gentle turn from the line of
>the head.
>
>She recently showed up in Ursula Mertz's book on compo dolls accompanied by
>the original box.  I can't remember the exact name (the book's at home) but
>the 12" one had a name like Sally McCall or Alice McCall.  She was, of
>course, sold in a little cardboard suitcase with some scraps of trim and
>cloth and a McCall's pattern.
>
Betsy McCall.  I got to cut the paperdolls from the McCall's magazine every
month after my mother read the magazine.  McCalls also sells a pattern for
an 14-18" stuffed doll named Betsy McCall with several patterns for
different types of clothes, including historic clothing (prairie girl,
etc.).

Lynn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 17:06:13 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991012161108.14668N-100000@bigred.unl.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Worm Virus
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 18:22:31 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I wish it were a hoax but it isn't.  It happened today on a DC web tech list
with over 1,000 members.  I am just deleting everything from that list now.
Everytime the computer with the virus is rebooted, it regenerates the
message back out to the list.  If you go to the McAfee (sp) website you will
find more information and an upgrade for the virus.  I am sorry I didn't
keep the URL, because I don't use their software.  The virus has been around
since July 1999.  It is also known by Trojan Horse virus.

Later... Penny

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 17:06:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 17:29:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Tryptich
In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.32.19991011232215.0077b078@radiks.net>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


I wrote:
> >Memling placed the same St. Catherine in the Donne Triptych (1479, London,
> >National Gallery), the altarpiece for the Hospital of St. John in Bruges
> >(commissioned 1474, completed 1479, still in Bruges, where the hospital
> >now houses the Memling Museum)...

Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
> IIRC, There was a very nice article about Memling and the art in the former
> Hospital of St. John in Bruges in last month's (Sept. 99) Smithsonian
> magazine.  It might be easier to find in most libraries than some of the
> books it might be in.

I immediately dashed to the Smithsonian site to view this, but I found no
Memling. I did, however, find an article on the Isenheim Altarpiece,
created by Matthias Grunewald for a hospital chapel in Colmar, France, in
the early 1500s. Different time, different place, different artist, but it
was a hospital altarpiece at least. The Smithsonian website doesn't show
the art, alas, but links to a few partial images in the Webmuseum. 

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 17:10:40 1999
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Message-ID: <0.5f904594.25350f5f@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 18:25:35 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I made aTudor gown from a sari for a friend of mine. Several problems: 1) It 
really has to be lined, interfaced, etc. because it is thin. 2) Since it is 
only SO LONG, you have to lay out cut it very carefully; the sari works 
better for smaller ladies. 3) Since it has a border or two borders, you have 
to be very careful laying out the pattern & cutting it. 4) You should find a 
border design that does not scream SARI.

The one I made turned out pretty well, but I would have liked a few more 
yards for the skirt -- I felt it was a bit skimpy. It was red with metallic 
borders and I combined it with red satin and gold trim. The person I made it 
for was delighted and it looked good. There was not enough fabric left over 
to blow your nose on. 

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 17:13:35 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 18:28:27 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banner Silk--Slightly OT
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I would suggest a silk taffeta. It is the proper weight and texture.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 17:22:07 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 15:39:41 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> 3) Since it has a border or two borders, you have
> to be very careful laying out the pattern & cutting it. 4) You should find a
> border design that does not scream SARI.

Which reminds me.  We were discussing earlier that Elizabethan didn't have
borders like the borders used in saris.  But I was looking through one of my
books the other day, Thomasina Beck's _The Embroiderer's Story_, and there was a
color picture of a lady in one of those cool embroidered jackets with a red
skirt with a border down the front opening and along the hem that reminded me
exactly of sari borders.  Take a look if you have the book and tell me what you
think.  And no, I don't know of a website with the picture.  Sorry.  :}

And it sounds just like what she described.  Red with gold borders.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 19:19:23 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/12/1999 6:28:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Appin1@aol.com writes:

<< Several problems: 1) It 
 really has to be lined, interfaced, etc. because it is thin. 2) Since it is 
 only SO LONG, you have to lay out cut it very carefully; the sari works 
 better for smaller ladies. 3) Since it has a border or two borders, you have 
 to be very careful laying out the pattern & cutting it. >>

Problems??? Sounds like business as usual to me. :-)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 20:20:47 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 20:40:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: minikin patterns (fwd)
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


More from my doll-collecting mother

---------- Forwarded message ----------

To continue:

The Betsy McCall paper doll printed every monthin the fifties had 
dresses made from patterns for life-sized dresses, and has also 
been a terrific doll in three dimensions in at least three versions 
besides the cloth one your friend tells about.  She's currently a very 
hot item among doll collectors, especially in the sixties 6" version 
with lingerie but the maniquin (or minikin, as one of your buddies 
put it) is not Betsy but a predecessor. 

That one (I'm home with my book now) was Peggy McCall.  I quote 
from the 1943 advertisment showing Peggy in a bifold box.   The 
left wing of the box has three pieces of cloth and a booklet entitled 
"McCall: Tricks in Sewing."  The right wing has three patterns for 
doll-sized dresses.  The middle shows the manikin (girlikin?) tied 
naked into the middle, with a dress form in her size, two spools of 
thread, a package marked Talon, and two things I can't make out. 

The text says "This fascinating, educational toy crashes the field 
with terrific appeal to the small fry and the teen-age, as well! 
"Peggy," an adorable manikin 13" high, with detatchable arms, is 
available in a variety of strikingly packaged sets complete with real 
MCCALL Dressmaker patterns and grown-up sewing accessories. 
 Outstanding dealer helps and plenty of publicity in Parents', 
Mademoiselle, McCall's, House and Garden, movie magazines, 
True Confessions, and others.  Sets priced to retail from $1.50 to 
$5.00"

There's also an ad from 1942 selling "Peggy," the Fashion Model 
Sewing Box ($1, $3, or $5).  This appears to be a sturdy 
semicircular sewing box into which Peggy (blonde or brunette) fits, 
along with needles, thread, etc.  and "a descriptive booklet carrying 
a message to young Americans who are just learning to sew.  
Because of the great interest in home sewing which is now 
apparent, this new line of sewing boxes ... willl be of special interest 
to toybuyers."  By the way, "All boxes are carried out in red, white, 
and blue -- patriotic design." " Attractive displays showing Peggy 
fully dressed are available."

The fully dressed Peggys are wearing, respectively, a nun-like 
student nurse outfit, and a dark skirt with clunky white top.

The quality is really pretty chintzy, as composition dolls go, even for 
wartime America.  But I do like her anyway, and wish I had her arms.

Mom


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 20:25:28 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: no Zoot Suit patterns amywhere!!!
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 21:22:53 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

>So I went down to my local cloth store to look for the Zoot Suit patterns
>someone said Vogue had - and nothing!  I found the vintage section and the
>men's section, but no Zoot Suit anywhere.  Butterick didn't have one (not
>in their retro or men's or costume sections), Simplicity didn't have one,
>and McCalls didn't have one.  So refresh my memory.  Where were these
>patterns to be found?


I was wondering the same thing.  I also had a fruitless search this past
weekend at JoAnn's.

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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 21:23:38 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: nipples & breasts showing
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com
>
><< There's a detailed discussion of single bare-breastedness (that is, one
> breast showing) in art in Anne Hollander's _Seeing Through Clothes_.

>What comes immediately to mind here is the symbol of France, the lady with
>her breast(s) exposed, carrying a flag, leading the troups, etc.

Of this one, Hollander comments that there is not enough material in her
dress to actually cover her bosom or her bare, flag-waving arm, but that
Delacroix deliberately designed her costume as "uneven in design,
suggesting Classical rags proper to a working-class goddess."  Delacroix
made an interesting compromise here--the garment she wears looks like it
_could_ be an actual dress (of the negligee style, perhaps) but she wears
it like old-school Classical Drapery.  Hollander continues "Furthermore,
her exposed bosom could never have been denuded by the exertions of the
moment; rather, the exposure itself, built into the costume, is an original
part of her essence--at once holy, desirable, and fierce."  (p. 202)
Sounds like Joan of Arc, which actually may not be too far off.

Painting (and other forms of art) seems to require quite a bit of costume
design--it's been great to hear analyses of various fashion confections and
how real they might have been.

Melanie


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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: H-COST: 16th century fencing garments
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

Hello, the List!

A question for you:  a gentleman here is looking for research on 16th
century fencing garments--that is, anything that would have been worn
specifically for rapier fighting.  Since I know nothing at all about this,
I put it to you.  This gentleman is not on the list, so please mail him
directly at sohei@execpc.com

(I am sending him a reconstructed version of the "blackened linen" thread,
though it's a bit early.)

Many Thanks
Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 23:12:00 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 17:14:45 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: nipples & breasts showing
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Could someone who is knowledgeable please comment on figures 178 and 179
>in QE's Wardrobe Unlock'd?  They're drawings showing a French woman
>(c.1566) where the top of the bodice is completely below the breasts.
>Her breasts and nipples are showing--artistic license?  

It's hard to say because the artist obviously has difficulty with
proportion.  However, there seems to be some evidence for this sort of
"daring" by some women from a couple of countries in the 16th century.  I
can't think of concrete evidence off hand.

>Also, what is the opening down the center front?  If it's the
>smock/partlet, wouldn't it end inside the bodice where you couldn't see
>it?  Even if the lady has her headpiece, girdle, gloves, etc. she gives
>me the impression of not being fully dressed.

I would definitely say she is fully dressed - one doesn't usually wear an
apron in their undress.  ;)  But, I would say it is a smock/partlet with
her chain (necklace) being worn over it.  I'm not clear about your
statement "...smock/partlet, wouldn't it end inside the bodice where you
couldn't see it?"  Her bodice appears to be over the undergarment when I
look at it.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 12 23:32:17 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Lady in red skirt, was Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 03:39 PM 10/12/99 -0700, Merouda the True of Beaumaris wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> 3) Since it has a border or two borders, you have
>> to be very careful laying out the pattern & cutting it. 4) You should find a
>> border design that does not scream SARI.
>
>Which reminds me.  We were discussing earlier that Elizabethan didn't have
>borders like the borders used in saris.  But I was looking through one of my
>books the other day, Thomasina Beck's _The Embroiderer's Story_, and there
was a
>color picture of a lady in one of those cool embroidered jackets with a red
>skirt with a border down the front opening and along the hem that reminded me
>exactly of sari borders.  Take a look if you have the book and tell me what you
>think.  And no, I don't know of a website with the picture.  Sorry.  :}
>
>And it sounds just like what she described.  Red with gold borders.
>
>Cynthia

The only picture I can find that approximates your description is on page
11; while I can see a gold-embroidered pattern around the bottom of the
skirt, there does not seem to be any front opening. The pattern does have an
Indian look to it. According to the caption, this picture is "said to be
Arabella Stuart, wearing a jacket trimed with cutwork. Portrait attributed
to Marcus Gheeraerts, c. 1605."  This is just after Elizabeth's reign (she
died in 1603). 

There is another lady in red with gold lace on page 21, but the portrait is
dated 1610. And she is wearing a red gown, not just a skirt, and the
"edging" of the hem looks to be the lining of the gown (looks like a brocade
to me) finished to show on the outside.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

> her chain (necklace) being worn over it.  I'm not clear about your
> statement "...smock/partlet, wouldn't it end inside the bodice where you
> couldn't see it?"  Her bodice appears to be over the undergarment when I
> look at it.

	Yes, I agree.  I was wondering about the "thing" down the center
front from her neck.  If it's a necklace, that explains it.  I was puzzled
because since the bodice does appear to go over the undergarment, if the
"thing" was the center front opening of said undergarment, it made no
sense that we'd be able to see it.  But if it's a chain hanging over the
bodice I understand.

thanks,
lisa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 05:16:14 1999
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-Poster: Patrizia and Mark Nickel <costumes@wi.net>

Could anyone on the list tell me which town Sirs Fabrics is in.  I know its
located somewhere in Tennessee, and I will be traveling to Nashville tomorrow!

Thanks!



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 08:04:09 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 09:19:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 16th century fencing garments
In-Reply-To: <v03007833b429a9f366c7@[209.207.57.206]>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


In Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620", she has descriptions,
pictures and pattern layouts of two or three fencing doublets. They're
from around 1600-1610.

Hope this helps,

Drea



On Tue, 12 Oct 1999, Melanie Schuessler wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> 
> Hello, the List!
> 
> A question for you:  a gentleman here is looking for research on 16th
> century fencing garments--that is, anything that would have been worn
> specifically for rapier fighting.  Since I know nothing at all about this,
> I put it to you.  This gentleman is not on the list, so please mail him
> directly at sohei@execpc.com
> 
> (I am sending him a reconstructed version of the "blackened linen" thread,
> though it's a bit early.)
> 
> Many Thanks
> Melanie

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>I would definitely say she is fully dressed - one doesn't usually wear an
>apron in their undress.  ;)  But, I would say it is a smock/partlet with
>her chain (necklace) being worn over it.  I'm not clear about your
>statement "...smock/partlet, wouldn't it end inside the bodice where you
>couldn't see it?"  Her bodice appears to be over the undergarment when I
>look at it.
>
>

Also there are a few (not many, but a few) instances of partlets, even sheer
linen ones, worn over the bodice, not tucked in.  I don't think that's
what's happening here, though; I think the problem is bad art.  This also
may be charicature.  Look at the back view, and the way her skirt is
stretched so tight over her farthingale  that the lower edge is forced up,
showing the hoop.

I've seen this picture many times, and it never made me think her breasts
were showing.  Could it be that I have a clean mind?  Nah....

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Subject: H-COST: Sirs fabrics
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-Poster: VICKI@lib.uttyl.edu

Sirs fabric store is in Fayetteville, TN, down near the Alabama line.

Vicki Betts
vicki@lib.uttyl.edu
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 10:19:23 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 08:36:59 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Lady in red skirt, was Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> The only picture I can find that approximates your description is on page
> 11; while I can see a gold-embroidered pattern around the bottom of the
> skirt, there does not seem to be any front opening. The pattern does have an
> Indian look to it. According to the caption, this picture is "said to be
> Arabella Stuart, wearing a jacket trimed with cutwork. Portrait attributed
> to Marcus Gheeraerts, c. 1605."  This is just after Elizabeth's reign (she
> died in 1603).

This is the one.  I was going from my memory in my description not the picture in
front of me.  Thanks for the clarification.  I think a sari border would fall into
the realm of reasonable facsimile for this particular look.  And did you notice?  A
yellow ruff and cuff set.  Yellow is pretty rare.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 10:26:43 1999
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Old Sewing Machines - Damascus & Domestic
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 11:33:58 -0400
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

The Damascus was manufactured by the Standard Sewing Machine Co. as well as
the National Sewing Machine Co.  Standard was formed in the 1880's and
acquired by Singer in 1931.  National was formed in 1890 and their machines
were sold through dept. stores and through mail order establishements (like
Sears and Wards).  In 1953 the company merged with the Free S M Co. and
produced one electric model under the Free-Westinghouse name.  Free went out
of business in 1969.

The Domestic S M Co. sold out to White in 1924.

This information is from "American Antique Sewing Machines" by Slaten.  Good
pictures and information, but not accurate in the value guide, I have heard.

If you are interested in old machines, both treadle and electric, you may be
interested in a newsgroup for old sewing machine collectors and enthusiasts.
There are several members who work on their machines and are very helpful
with problems such as the "stuck stitch selector on a fancy stitch roto
thingie" which Carolyn mentioned as a problem regarding her Domestic.  Their
web site also has good information on old machines.  If you would like that
address, just email me.

For those interested in Featherweights there are several newsgroups or sites
as well, one is Featherweight Fanatics.  Just do a search.  Featherweights
in my area of the Midwest go for about $375 - $425 sometimes more --
depending on their condition, the condition of the case, and number of
attachments.   My aunt in Idaho found one in a second hand store, fully
loaded for $375.  Not a lot for a dear little machine.  : )

Connie Fairchild

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 11:38:30 1999
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Subject: H-COST: patterns overseas
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Do other countries have commercial pattern companies like we do?

What I am getting at is, do they have the same kinda fad costume section
like ours?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 11:53:51 1999
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From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

ches@io.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: ches@io.com
> 
> Do other countries have commercial pattern companies like we do?
> 
> What I am getting at is, do they have the same kinda fad costume section
> like ours?
> 

They have the *same* pattern companies we do. That's why the
patterns are printed in several languages. (I lived overseas,
tho' not in Europe and we could always get Vogue patterns)
Not all patterns may be available in all countries.

Burda originates in Europe, and isn't there one that
originates in Britain??

Susan F.
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 12:09:32 1999
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Susan Fatemi wrote:

> -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
>
> ches@io.com wrote:
> >
> > -Poster: ches@io.com
> >
> > Do other countries have commercial pattern companies like we do?
> >
> > What I am getting at is, do they have the same kinda fad costume section
> > like ours?
> >
>
> They have the *same* pattern companies we do. That's why the
> patterns are printed in several languages. (I lived overseas,
> tho' not in Europe and we could always get Vogue patterns)
> Not all patterns may be available in all countries.
>
> Burda originates in Europe, and isn't there one that
> originates in Britain??
>
> Susan F.
> --
> Oh Noh! Kimonos!
> susanf@netwiz.net
> http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf

How about smaller companies that produce historic patterns?  Do you (or non-US
members of h-costume) know if England and Europe have any we are not seeing
here in the US?

Fran Grimble


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 12:33:44 1999
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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------FD7DC202DA0732F6AE1FC7E5
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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> Burda originates in Europe, and isn't there one that
> originates in Britain??
>
Burda is a German company and they don`t have any useful historical
costume patterns at all (except maybe one that was a special issue for
the celebration of the 1848 democratic revoulution but it`s far from
historically correct).All the costume patterns over here are intended
for carnival use and are mostly Fantasy
(clowns, pirates, animals etc.).

Unfortunately we don`t even get the Simplicity costume patterns in our
stores although the regular Simplicity patterns are available over here.

But I`m very lucky to have nice people in the States getting them for me
(thanks a lot,
Kate !).

Many greetings,
Diana


--------------FD7DC202DA0732F6AE1FC7E5
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<HTML>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>Burda originates in Europe, and isn't there one that
originates in Britain??</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
Burda is a German company and they don`t have any useful historical costume
patterns at all (except maybe one that was a special issue for the celebration
of the 1848 democratic revoulution but it`s far from historically correct).All
the costume patterns over here are intended for carnival use and are mostly
Fantasy
<BR>(clowns, pirates, animals etc.).

<P>Unfortunately we don`t even get the Simplicity costume patterns in our
stores although the regular Simplicity patterns are available over here.
<BR>But I`m very lucky to have nice people in the States getting them for
me (thanks a lot,
<BR>Kate !).

<P>Many greetings,
<BR>Diana
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------FD7DC202DA0732F6AE1FC7E5--


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 13:37:10 1999
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-Poster: Sally Norton <snorton@us.oracle.com>


I asked a friend at work who has fenced for years and is very active in
competition today. He told me that in the 16th c. fencing was a form of
fighting, not the elite sport we think of today. In the 16th c. a man
did not
have garments specifically for fencing.

Sally Norton
snorton@us.oracle.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 14:56:52 1999
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Subject: H-COST: zoot suit
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I can't remember the number of the Simplicity Zoot Suit, but it really 
exists. I don't have my Vogue pattern with me at the moment or I'd tell you 
the number. But you can see it on the cover of the current Vogue pattern 
book, which has a black and white photo of a couple in 1940s clothes. It 
appears a couple of times in the book, so I don't know why you can't find it 
-- unless your store has the old book, in which case it isn't there.

While I'm on the subject . . . I am making the pants for my husband. I 
wouldn't attempt the jacket. It is without a doubt the worst sewing project 
I've ever taken on since our family baptismal gown -- also a Vogue. The 
instructions are awful. Follow them to the letter and you get: a mistake! I 
guess maybe they're geared toward people who have already made tailored 
suits, but for those of us that haven't, they STINK. The kids have been 
wonderful at playing while I sew, and if the instructions weren't awful I 
would be done by now. As it is, I've had to rip lots of things out and do 
them again. So beware.

A little perspective, though: last night at 10:30 I was trying to do the left 
fly (after spending TWO HOURS on the right fly!). I assembled everything 
according to the directions and the picture, and it came out backwards. I 
made my husband look at the directions while I vented. "It says to put right 
sides together, and I did!" I screamed. "I made it look just like the picture 
and I sewed it together and it's backwards!" My dear husband was sympathetic, 
and then it said, "But I guess they were thinking you'd use lining fabric, 
which doesn't have a right side, instead of novelty cotton printed with 
grinning skulls."

Too true. I ripped it out and reassembled it and now my skulls are inside-out.

Gail Finke

PS: It was really cheap, that's why.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 16:23:07 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 17:35:59 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern Instruction sheets
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Margo -- The one major problem I've had with various historical costume 
patterns is that the instructions suck! All of them.

I personally would prefer an 8X11 booklet. La Mode Bagatelle does that with 
their Regency wardrobe, and while I find the instructions a bit obtuse, I 
like the format.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 16:47:00 1999
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I have never heard of a Janome or seen one anywhere. Where does one get them?

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 16:54:37 1999
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Subject: Re: Lady in red skirt, was Re: H-COST: Sari Silk
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Merouda the True of Beaumaris wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> > The only picture I can find that approximates your description is on page
> > 11; while I can see a gold-embroidered pattern around the bottom of the
> > skirt, there does not seem to be any front opening. The pattern does have an
> > Indian look to it. According to the caption, this picture is "said to be
> > Arabella Stuart, wearing a jacket trimed with cutwork. Portrait attributed
> > to Marcus Gheeraerts, c. 1605."  This is just after Elizabeth's reign (she
> > died in 1603).
> 
> This is the one.  I was going from my memory in my description not the picture in
> front of me.  Thanks for the clarification.  I think a sari border would fall into
> the realm of reasonable facsimile for this particular look.  And did you notice?  A
> yellow ruff and cuff set.  Yellow is pretty rare.
Actually yellow, blue and red ruffs were very fashionable according to
Janet Arnold and can be seen on quite a few portraits we just think it's
old varnish in most cases. The yellow is acheived by adding Saffron to
the starch.

Dawn

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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 11:42 PM 10/13/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Sally Norton <snorton@us.oracle.com>
>
>
>I asked a friend at work who has fenced for years and is very active in
>competition today. He told me that in the 16th c. fencing was a form of
>fighting, not the elite sport we think of today. In the 16th c. a man
>did not
>have garments specifically for fencing.
>
>Sally Norton
>snorton@us.oracle.com
>
  Fencing garments do exist in the 16th century.  There is an example shown
in Janet Arnolds book. 

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sari Silk - Elizabethan
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

You should be able to get or order a hoop skirt at a bridal shop. Or try one 
of the bride's magazines. It should have ads for such things.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 17:04:19 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machines/Y2k
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>I have never heard of a Janome or seen one anywhere. Where does one get
them?
>
>Kathleen Norvell


Are you in the US?  They're sold here as "New Home." But in Canada they're
Janome.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 17:23:49 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Actually yellow, blue and red ruffs were very fashionable according to
> Janet Arnold and can be seen on quite a few portraits we just think it's
> old varnish in most cases. The yellow is acheived by adding Saffron to
> the starch.

Well, I don't know about "we" thinking this about varnish.  :)  I certainly don't.  I
know that Arnold mentions it and they are around but I find the pictures in color very
rarely.

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 17:34:43 1999
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Subject: H-COST: H-Cost:  And the Winner Is...
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Thanks to everyone who came up with suggestions for names for my pattern
business.  After long consideration, and finding that some of the
suggestions I liked best were already in use, I have decided to go with my
original idea of Regalia Costume Patterns.

As I promised, I have done a random drawing from all those who suggested
names, and the winner is Mellissa Depner.  Melissa, please send me your
snail address and I will send you a gift certificate for a free copy of the
first pattern, when available.  

The business plan is done and goes in the mail to my potential investor
tomorrow morning.  Think happy thoughts, everyone, and if all goes well,
good Elizabethan patterns will be on the market in about a year, to be
followed by patterns for many other periods.

Nervously,

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 16:00:32 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Cost:  And the Winner Is...
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Thanks to everyone who came up with suggestions for names for my pattern
>business.  After long consideration, and finding that some of the
>suggestions I liked best were already in use, I have decided to go with my
>original idea of Regalia Costume Patterns.
>
>As I promised, I have done a random drawing from all those who suggested
>names, and the winner is Mellissa Depner.  Melissa, please send me your
>snail address and I will send you a gift certificate for a free copy of the
>first pattern, when available.
>
>The business plan is done and goes in the mail to my potential investor
>tomorrow morning.  Think happy thoughts, everyone, and if all goes well,
>good Elizabethan patterns will be on the market in about a year, to be
>followed by patterns for many other periods.
>
>Nervously,
>
>Margo
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>


Best of luck to you, Margo.  Remember that "one tough costumer" part while
you wait for a reply; it should help a bit.

LynnD
With many good thoughts for you
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 19:38:49 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 19:52:49 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fencing garments
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: Sally Norton <snorton@us.oracle.com>
>
>
>I asked a friend at work who has fenced for years and is very active in
>competition today. He told me that in the 16th c. fencing was a form of
>fighting, not the elite sport we think of today. In the 16th c. a man
>did not
>have garments specifically for fencing.

Thanks.  I'll forward this to the person in question.

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 19:41:50 1999
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fencing garments--oops
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

I just noticed that you cleverly sent your mail both to the list and to the
person needing help--thanks!

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 20:00:06 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: patterns overseas
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>

	For those of you interested in commercial historical patterns, I
will be carrying these effective January 1, 2000. At first I will have
stock items in Past Patterns, Period Impressions, Kannik's Korners and Mill
Farm. Expansion will take place throughout the year to encompass time
periods from 500 AD through to 1950.

	As our company already ships internationally, to ship patterns
internationally will not prove a challenge.

regards
Lorina Stephens


--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage & fine
hand-sewn garments http://www.5rivers.org e-mail: info@5rivers.org


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 20:22:42 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 21:41:22 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Neiman Marcus
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.10.9910120940590.8782-100000@fnord.io.com>
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

I was not able to access this site.

At 09:41 AM 10/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>I am so sorry for offending many of you.
>
>All opinions are welcome, including the male population of the list!!
>
>One of these days I will be politically correct...
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>ches@io.com
>

Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 20:44:45 1999
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From: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <38028D2A.DCD7D7D4@pacbell.net> <3.0.3.32.19991013214122.007c7570@intrepid.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Neiman Marcus
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 20:56:20 -0500
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-Poster: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>

What browser were you using? The stats showed that 42% of the shoppers and
browsers of this site were IE 5.0 users, 23% IE 4.X, 30% Netscape 4.X, 3%
Mac and the rest were misc. We had to decide how to create this site based
on these stats and the steering committee decided that we would not support
anything that would not support 128 encryption since we were going to take
your credit card info. Certificates, yadda yadda yadda, and such are not
compatible with lower browsers. So I apologize for the gross inconvience it
may cause any of my fellow surfers.

The shopping feature is now open, you all can register! Currently there is
an Italian exhibit at the Dallas location with costumes from Italian operas
through the ages. All are on loan from various opera houses in Europe. There
is also a Leonardo d'Vinci exhibit that is interactive as well as 8x10
brasses that you can do rubbings off of.

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 1999 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Neiman Marcus


>
> -Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>
> I was not able to access this site.
>
> At 09:41 AM 10/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: ches@io.com
> >
> >I am so sorry for offending many of you.
> >
> >All opinions are welcome, including the male population of the list!!
> >
> >One of these days I will be politically correct...
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >F. Havas
> >ches@io.com
> >
>
> Cordially,
>
> Sue Shatto
>
> Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
> http://www.VictorianMillinery.com
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 21:28:12 1999
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From: Alabaster <mercury@eagle.ca>
Subject: H-COST: Quick trip to NYC
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-Poster: Alabaster <mercury@eagle.ca>

Hi

I've been thinking about a weekend trip for my husband & I (& our 3 kids) in
late October & was wondering if anyone had any ideas about interesting
costume/museum outtings for us.  The kids are 12,11,10 & would love to do
some really fun stuff.  I would like to drop by anywhere that has any
costume exhibits, European Art (or a great fabric store).  We'd also be
looking for somewhere to stay -- fairly central & pretty CHEAP.

Looking forward to any help you can offer (reply privately if you wish!)

Thanks

Elizabeth

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 13 21:34:20 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 19:50:34 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Neiman Marcus
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I was able but since I am not a *lady* I have no opinion on the site.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Neiman Marcus
>Date: Wed, Oct 13, 1999, 6:41 PM
>

>
>-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>
>I was not able to access this site.
>
>At 09:41 AM 10/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>-Poster: ches@io.com
>>
>>I am so sorry for offending many of you.
>>
>>All opinions are welcome, including the male population of the list!!
>>
>>One of these days I will be politically correct...
>>
>>Sincerely,
>>F. Havas
>>ches@io.com
>>
>
>Cordially,
>
>Sue Shatto
>
>Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
>http://www.VictorianMillinery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 07:25:47 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 05:38:53 -0700
From: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

I've been confused over the discussion of different zoot suit patterns, so I thought I'd try to define who makes what pattern, along with my own impression of each:

2367 is the Vogue zoot suit. It has princess seams in the back. In my eyes this is the superior pattern, however, it has the longest bunch of instructions I've ever seen and doesn't provide much in the way of tailoring.  Be forwarned:  a zoot suit is an advanced sewing project (more complicated than a regular suit).  Make sure you are comfy working with welt pockets, lapel piecess and know how to roll lapels before taking this on.  Also, it is only in the new Vogue catalogue--many stores may not have these out yet.

8879 is the Simplicity pattern.  It is from their "retro" line.  They do not identify it as a zoot suit, but as a "long suit." It is constructed like a regular men's jacket, but longer.  It does not seem to have a true princess seams in the back.  Lapels are modern (wrong shape, not just small).  In my impression, it seems to have more simplified construction requirements, but it also doesn't look as tailored as the Vogue pattern...

...And to confuse things a little more:

I made my first attempt from adapting Neue Mode Stil # V 22178.  It is a tacky little outfit that looks kind of like a waiters uniform (not a zoot suit).  It has princess seams in the front and back (I have vintage photos of this, so it is a correct, if not common option) and a wacky two-toned collar option).  It needs to be extended, as it only is cut to the waist.  Instructions are in pidgin English and German.

Hope this helps everyone!

Mary



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 08:02:34 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE:Cleaning Machines (was when to buy good thread
Message-Id: <939325911.28049.622@excite.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 12:51:51 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>



> Some repair technicians claim that this can cause problems by forcing
lint
> particles further into the mechanism.  They say you should use one of
those
> nifty little vaccuum cleaners that computer people use.  You can also buy
a
> kit of mini attachments for a full size canister vac, too.  

I have one of those attachment kits on order. As soon as it arrives, I
intend to take it for a 'test drive'. If anyone is interested in a review,
let me know and I'll post how well it works.

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 08:30:27 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 09:43:05 EDT
Subject: H-COST: bridal hoops for Elizabethan
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Last time I checked, the kind of hoops sold at bridal stores are more 
appropriate for Elizabethan than for antebellum, because they tend to have a 
cone shape rather than a bell shape. But they're still not quite right, and 
they're expensive, too! If you buy one, you might have to alter the hoops. 
You can usually make them smaller by pinning them -- the hoop part isn't 
usually a real circle, but a long stiff tape put into a channel. You can make 
it narrower, and you might have to if you want it to look right.

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 09:00:11 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Quick trip to NYC
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< We'd also be
 looking for somewhere to stay -- fairly central & pretty CHEAP. >>

The Hotel Pennsylvania is right across the street from Penn Station, which is 
great, but it's not the best place to stay in terms of no mold in your room!  
However, for NYC it's cheap.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 09:17:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 10:30:21 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Costume Books on eBay
To: h-costume@indra.com, sewinghistoric@onelist.com, menscostumes@onelist.com
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-Poster: Morses3@aol.com

Sorry for the intrusion, but I just bought a collection of costume books from 
an estate, and I've listed the duplicates I already had on eBay as follows 
with low reserves just to pass them on. I hope someone who needs one gets a 
bargain!

Look under seller :   mayflower

#181507166   "The Book of Costume"  2 volume boxed set by  Millia Davenport, 
from the first printing

#181510608 "Pictorial History of Costume" by Bruhn and Tilke

#181514569 "Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620" by Janet Arnold (with brown 
cover), signed by the author on the front page

Thanks,

Perry
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 09:41:46 1999
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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------F2B4C0815198237E03D68668
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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>  For those of you interested in commercial historical patterns, I
> will be carrying these effective January 1, 2000. At first I will have
> stock items in Past Patterns, Period Impressions, Kannik's Korners and Mill
> Farm. Expansion will take place throughout the year to encompass time
> periods from 500 AD through to 1950.
>
>         As our company already ships internationally, to ship patterns
> internationally will not prove a challenge.
>
What is the name of your business and where are you situated ?Do you
have a website ?
(So many questions in one mail ;-)...).

Many greetings,
Diana


--------------F2B4C0815198237E03D68668
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<HTML>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>&nbsp;For those of you interested in commercial historical patterns, I
will be carrying these effective January 1, 2000. At first I will have
stock items in Past Patterns, Period Impressions, Kannik's Korners and Mill
Farm. Expansion will take place throughout the year to encompass time
periods from 500 AD through to 1950.

&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; As our company already ships internationally, to ship patterns
internationally will not prove a challenge.</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
What is the name of your business and where are you situated ?Do you have
a website ?
<BR>(So many questions in one mail ;-)...).

<P>Many greetings,
<BR>Diana
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------F2B4C0815198237E03D68668--



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 10:20:15 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: patterns overseas
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 11:37:28 -0500
x-sender: tr002203-elisee@williams.tricreations.com
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>

For those of you interested in commercial historical patterns, I carry 
them now, and have been shipping overseas for over a year.  I charge only 
actual shipping costs, adding no "handling" charge.  I carry Period 
Patterns, Costume Connection, Alter Years, Past Patterns, Patterns of 
History, Kannik's Korner, Eagle's View, and Laughing Moon Mercantile, and 
am adding other lines of patterns as I discover them.  You may browse our 
catalog at 

http://www.sewingcentral.com

As an added benefit, I have made up many of the patterns I carry, and can 
help advise on their construction.

We are in the process of enabling a shopping cart system on the website, 
to further ease the ordering process especially for our overseas 
customers.  You may also want to check out my new silk page for silk noil 
at $6 a yard.

I have not previously posted such a blatant commercial announcement.

Lisa Brandt, owner
Sewing Central/The Merlion's Tail

Gary Stephens wrote:

>
>-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>
>
>	For those of you interested in commercial historical patterns, I
>will be carrying these effective January 1, 2000. At first I will have
>stock items in Past Patterns, Period Impressions, Kannik's Korners and Mill
>Farm. Expansion will take place throughout the year to encompass time
>periods from 500 AD through to 1950.
>
>	As our company already ships internationally, to ship patterns
>internationally will not prove a challenge.
>
>regards
>Lorina Stephens
>
>
>--------------------------------------
> Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage & fine
>hand-sewn garments http://www.5rivers.org e-mail: info@5rivers.org
>
>
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 10:45:14 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 10:57:53 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: patterns overseas
In-Reply-To: <199910141526.LAA12783@williams.tricreations.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Is everyone missing the point of my post!?!

I was not looking for merchants to sell them overseas I was looking for
REAL pattern manufacutures overseas.

If you are selling them to customers overseas change the subject line
please.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 10:56:33 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Quick trip to NYC
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-Poster: Stephen Fairman <fairmans@teleport.com>



Alabaster wrote:

> -Poster: Alabaster <mercury@eagle.ca>
>
> Hi
>
> I've been thinking about a weekend trip for my husband & I (& our 3 kids) in
> late October & was wondering if anyone had any ideas about interesting
> costume/museum outtings for us.  The kids are 12,11,10 & would love to do
> some really fun stuff.  I would like to drop by anywhere that has any
> costume exhibits, European Art (or a great fabric store).  We'd also be
> looking for somewhere to stay -- fairly central & pretty CHEAP.
>
> Looking forward to any help you can offer (reply privately if you wish!)
>
> Thanks
>
> Elizabeth


I don't know if you can still do it but back in 1978, my wife, daughter, and I
stayed at the YMCA, which was walking distance from the UN and Grand Central.
I remember it being very cheap back then and family-friendly.  Very modest rooms
but you will only be sleeping in them.

Esteban McLachan
Shadow's Treasure Chest
http://www.cyberis.net/~fairman1

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Subject: Re: H-COST: nipples & breasts showing
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-Poster: Pandoorah@aol.com

Under this heading there were two books mentioned.  One was the Anne 
Hollender book...  (I think that was the author's name) but I have lost the 
information on the other one.  If someone has that information could you 
please send it to me privately.

Thank you,
Shannon
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 12:35:43 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Pourpoints & passe-poils
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 10:46:51 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


Does anyone know what  "Passe-poils" are? The are only referenced in the
plural; generally with either sort of pourpoint. The 15th c expression is
typically something like: monies paid "pour faire une pourpoint passe-poils
vert fonce assiettes grises".  I've tried several french dictionaries but
can only go back as far as Jean Nicot's "Thresor de la langue française"
(1606)
which says "Passe-poil. s. m. Petit bord de tafetas, de satin, ou d'autre
estoffe, qui est different de celle de l'habit, & qui
se met à l'endroit des coutures, & aux extrémitez de l'habit". This
description is rather like contrasting piping or dagging set into a seam or
as edging.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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Subject: H-COST: Check this out!
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-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180321545

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180321545
>

Stop it, you're hurting me.

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 12:58:37 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180321545

ROTFL!  1200 - 1700???  okay, whatever.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


I'm terrefied... I definitely need to start making
junk to sell on e-bay... my nice stuff won't sell, but
look at the number of bids!  Geez... 

sarah

--- KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu wrote:
> 
> -Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu
> 
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180321545
> 
> 


=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 13:09:23 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 11:22:09 -0700
From: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

What a nightmare!  It seemed like there were a zillion pieces in that pattern and the instructions just went on and on!  I will start mine probably next weekend (I'm away to Boston this weekend).  I'll let you know how mine go!

Mary
---
Visit my homepage:
http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly

On Wed, 13 Oct 1999 16:07:59   Gaelscot wrote:
>
>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>
>
>I can't remember the number of the Simplicity Zoot Suit, but it really 
>exists. I don't have my Vogue pattern with me at the moment or I'd tell you 
>the number. But you can see it on the cover of the current Vogue pattern 
>book, which has a black and white photo of a couple in 1940s clothes. It 
>appears a couple of times in the book, so I don't know why you can't find it 
>-- unless your store has the old book, in which case it isn't there.
>
>While I'm on the subject . . . I am making the pants for my husband. I 
>wouldn't attempt the jacket. It is without a doubt the worst sewing project 
>I've ever taken on since our family baptismal gown -- also a Vogue. The 
>instructions are awful. Follow them to the letter and you get: a mistake! I 
>guess maybe they're geared toward people who have already made tailored 
>suits, but for those of us that haven't, they STINK. The kids have been 
>wonderful at playing while I sew, and if the instructions weren't awful I 
>would be done by now. As it is, I've had to rip lots of things out and do 
>them again. So beware.
>
>A little perspective, though: last night at 10:30 I was trying to do the left 
>fly (after spending TWO HOURS on the right fly!). I assembled everything 
>according to the directions and the picture, and it came out backwards. I 
>made my husband look at the directions while I vented. "It says to put right 
>sides together, and I did!" I screamed. "I made it look just like the picture 
>and I sewed it together and it's backwards!" My dear husband was sympathetic, 
>and then it said, "But I guess they were thinking you'd use lining fabric, 
>which doesn't have a right side, instead of novelty cotton printed with 
>grinning skulls."
>
>Too true. I ripped it out and reassembled it and now my skulls are inside-out.
>
>Gail Finke
>
>PS: It was really cheap, that's why.
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 13:09:59 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.3.96.991014105537.22308D-100000@general1.asu.edu>
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  Oh dear.
  Margo, PLEASE hurry with your patterns...there's obviously
a huge need.......

  Liadain,


> 
> -Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180321545
> 
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 13:12:56 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 13:26:47 -0500 (CDT)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Check this out!
In-Reply-To: <38061D8D.E800A1DE@serv.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Ditto!!

But still a nice picture, found it about the time she put it up and was
the second bidder but lost it rather quickly. :)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 14 Oct 1999, Merouda the True of Beaumaris wrote:

> Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 11:14:38 -0700
> From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Check this out!
> 
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180321545
> 
> ROTFL!  1200 - 1700???  okay, whatever.
> 
> Cynthia
> 
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 13:15:31 1999
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Message-ID: <002b01bad882$222c8100$5cf1a2d0@default>
From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991014182903.14073.rocketmail@web802.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Check this out!
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 12:48:27 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>


  Excellent idea!  We can all sell those gawdawful "First Attempts"
on Ebay, and make enough money for a raid en masse on Britex....<G>

  Liadain,
     snickering.......

> I'm terrefied... I definitely need to start making
> junk to sell on e-bay... my nice stuff won't sell, but
> look at the number of bids!  Geez... 
> 
> sarah


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 13:20:09 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Ebay wench-wear
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 11:31:27 -0700
Message-ID: <000201bf1672$54970750$6b037a86@phoenix.com>
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


>This ensemble style is typical of middle class european ladies in the
period from the 1200's to the 17'00's.

Now *that's* versatile! ROFL!

 --cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 13:28:16 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000201bf1672$54970750$6b037a86@phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ebay wench-wear
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 13:01:00 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  One wonders how the "middle-class LADIES" would feel about
being referred to as "wenches", though....<GGGG>

  Liadain,
   who will attempt to stop snarking now...<G>

> >This ensemble style is typical of middle class european ladies in the
> period from the 1200's to the 17'00's.
> 
> Now *that's* versatile! ROFL!
> 
>  --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> 408.570.1023
> Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
> Phoenix Technologies
> 411 E. Plumeria Dr.
> San Jose CA 95134
> "I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
> the wrong answers."
> 
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 13:29:38 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.3.96.991014105537.22308D-100000@general1.asu.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Check this out!
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Okay, I have been trying to figure out how to ask this question for weeks
about this type of costume.  Where did people come up with this idea of the
front lacing bodice?

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 13:34:04 1999
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From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@mackie.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Recent posts
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Greetings, 

I don't post often, in fact, hardly at all.  But the last couple of comments relating to the garb for sale on ebay set me to thinking.

I realize that the majority of the costumers on this list are experts (I, on the other hand, am not anywhere close to that.)  However, I would respectfully ask people to stop and consider what they post and how it might be taken.  

I'll grant that the description could have been written to more appropriately describe the outfit.

The person who has that outfit for sale may be on this list (or they may not).  My point is that the commentary that just went on could intimidate or offend, or, at the very least, make newcomers or people who are not experts think that we are not interested in helping them improve.  I know if I read comments like that about something I made, I would think long and hard about *ever* posting anything to this list.  (I would post the comments, but I deleted the emails already...)

Please don't flame me for this - I am just asking people to be considerate of others.

Colleen



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 13:37:00 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Okay, I have been trying to figure out how to ask this question for weeks
> about this type of costume.  Where did people come up with this idea of the
> front lacing bodice?

Probably from paintings like this.  Granted the "wench" bodices aren't accurate
but many of the bodices in these paintings do lace in the front.
http://www.lepg.org/gallery.htm

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 13:41:11 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Check this out!
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 11:54:13 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180321545

Ok - joke's over.  Well I guess it could be a RenFaire costume (if it was 
decorated a bit) - but really.  Denim-like?  (eeeew)

Allessandre / Karie

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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Check this out!
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 19:15:00 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Message-ID: <380f2b5c.128008614@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Thu, 14 Oct 1999 11:54:13 PDT, the following was written in this
electric book by "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>:

>
>-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
>
>>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180321545
>
>Ok - joke's over.  Well I guess it could be a RenFaire costume (if it was 
>decorated a bit) - but really.  Denim-like?  (eeeew)

They probably mean twill. And if you take the hoop out, it's kind of
an okay rennfaire boothie costume. Maybe if it wasn't laced up with
white shoelaces.

The hat's nice. But it doesn't go with the outfit.

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 14:13:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 15:26:37 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Check this out!
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com

In a message dated 99-10-14 14:45:18 EDT, you write:

<< Where did people come up with this idea of the
 front lacing bodice? >>

Off the top of my head I can cite the More Family portrait with the daughters 
in Tudor dresses that clearly show lacing in the front. I'm sure there are 
others.

Yours,
Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 15:31:48 1999
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To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: new pattern?
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-Poster: ches@io.com

McCalls has a pattern that I have never seen before

http://www.nampa.net/lucretia/9-10pattern9427.jpg

Is this new? What do you all think of it? What fixes can we do?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 15:34:43 1999
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Subject: Was Re: H-COST: OT: Neiman Marcus, Now Gender Issues
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com


"I was able but since I am not a *lady* I have no opinion on the site."

<gets up on soapbox>
I would just like to say that I, for one, am getting very tired of seeing 
responses to this effect every time someone addresses a post generally to the 
"ladies/women/girls/females" of the list.  We all understand there are males 
on this list.  That point was clearly made several months ago when this 
behavior began.  However, everyone slips up in their postings from time to 
time, and Ches did send out a post apologizing for her error immediately 
after her initial post about the site. 

If the lady/gentleman thing is such a big deal and so offensive, then don't 
read the post that makes the error.  Or better yet, just let it go.  Please 
don't waste everyone's bandwidth by making comments such as the one above.  
It really serves no purpose.  
<steps off soapbox>

--Jen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 15:52:16 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 14:07:08 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Extant fabrics?
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

So, if you had the opportunity to have a private tour of the Henry Art
Gallery's costume and textile collection pre-1600 in Seattle would you
travel far to do it?  From Idaho? Oregon? Saskatchewan?  I am thinking
of trying to work out a tour with the curator and I have to know that
I could get a sizable amount of people together to make it worth her
while to come in on a Saturday, say 30-40.  They have to un-store the
things, then set them up, and then just be there.

So, how many of you would be interested?  Please respond to me
privately for a head count.  Do not respond to the lists.

Thanks!
Cynthia/Merouda
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 15:52:45 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>


> http://www.nampa.net/lucretia/9-10pattern9427.jpg
> 
> Is this new? What do you all think of it? What fixes can we do?

To fix it, I'd recommend going out and buying Simplicity's Italian Ren,
and never opening the McCall's.

That said, I could see that it would work for someone who just wanted a
halloween costume, without spending a lot of time on the more-accurate
details that most of us on this list enjoy doing.

cv
--
October 12 is the day the UN figures that Earth's population will hit 6
Billion (6,000,000,000)
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 14:04:39 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: Was Re: H-COST: OT: Neiman Marcus, Now Gender Issues
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com
>
>
>"I was able but since I am not a *lady* I have no opinion on the site."
>
><gets up on soapbox>
>I would just like to say that I, for one, am getting very tired of seeing
>responses to this effect every time someone addresses a post generally to the
>"ladies/women/girls/females" of the list.  We all understand there are males
>on this list.  That point was clearly made several months ago when this
>behavior began.  However, everyone slips up in their postings from time to
>time, and Ches did send out a post apologizing for her error immediately
>after her initial post about the site.
>
>If the lady/gentleman thing is such a big deal and so offensive, then don't
>read the post that makes the error.  Or better yet, just let it go.  Please
>don't waste everyone's bandwidth by making comments such as the one above.
>It really serves no purpose.
><steps off soapbox>
>
>--Jen


And I agree completely with Jen.  And I'm hoping that he who was quoted in
the first sentence was making a joke, however heavy-handed, and not simply
an unkind posting.  Listen, guys, we've been dealing with "the man's world'
garbage throughout history; lighten up

But, somehow, and more importantly, with an electrical outage during the
night at work, I missed the original Neiman marcus posting.  Would someone
please mind repeating it?

TIA,
LynnD
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 14:12:24 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: new pattern?
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>McCalls has a pattern that I have never seen before
>
>http://www.nampa.net/lucretia/9-10pattern9427.jpg
>
>Is this new? What do you all think of it? What fixes can we do?
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>ches@io.com
>
>
This pattern is at least a year old; I remember seeing it last Halloween.
A propos to the Check this out! suggestions, I can only suggest that anyone
making this costume skip the Burger King crown.

And it's perfectly lovely for Florida weather. (End of quote.)  ;>

LynnD
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s805c393.035@Mackie.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 16:53:03 -0400
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

>
> -Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
>
> Greetings,
>
> I don't post often, in fact, hardly at all.  But the last couple of
comments relating to the garb for sale on ebay set me to thinking.
>
> I realize that the majority of the costumers on this list are experts (I,
on the other hand, am not anywhere close to that.)  However, I would
respectfully ask people to stop and consider what they post and how it might
be taken.
>
> I'll grant that the description could have been written to more
appropriately describe the outfit.
>
> The person who has that outfit for sale may be on this list (or they may
not).  My point is that the commentary that just went on could intimidate or
offend, or, at the very least, make newcomers or people who are not experts
think that we are not interested in helping them improve.  I know if I read
comments like that about something I made, I would think long and hard about
*ever* posting anything to this list.  (I would post the comments, but I
deleted the emails already...)
>
> Please don't flame me for this - I am just asking people to be considerate
of others.
>
> Colleen
>

Greetings all,

I have to agree with Colleen on this one. There are some things on Ebay
where they are 50's dresses or standard off the rack old dresses that the
seller probably thinks "this renaissance stuff is going quick and for high
prices...I wanna get in on some of the action." These types make me cringe.
They try and push off just about anything as "great for the renaissance
fair".

However there is another type out there. They are the new home seamstresses
who are trying to make a few extra dollars. They buy store patterns, sew
them and sell them to people who might otherwise have *nothing* even
remotely atmospheric looking to wear to the renaissance fair or their first
SCA event. I don't think these people, who are making a genuine effort and
creating the garb themselves should be knocked. I looked at the photos and
the garment appears to be well made with some attention to detail, like the
matching waist pouch with a flap. Even the materials picked are better than
alot of the Historic Clothing Businesses out there use. From the description
I'm imagining it's a cotton twill.

True, the person that put the url up might not be a regular member and might
have been "advertising" to what was thought their intended market. That
shouldn't have happened. But do be at least helpful in posts and point out
pleasantly, what might have been down to make it more period or better sewn.
I don't think anyone wants to chase away someone new to sewing and the SCA
because they area worried that their efforts, which may not have been as
good as the Ebay item in their eyes, will draw the same pointed tongues.

::lecture mode off::

Regards,

~Kyna Grannd

Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing Supplies and Accessories
info@granndgarb.com
http://GranndGarb.com
ICQ#12859312


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 16:05:00 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 17:15:47 -0400
Subject: H-COST: Hair Shirt?
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

Hello all,

My mom asked if I knew what type of material hair shirts were made of in the Middle Ages. 
Her guess was some type of unrefined animal hair, and I took that one step further to 
guess maybe at a loosely spun wool. (A woolen as opposed to a worsted?) Does anyone 
out there know for sure, or have another theory? We're just curious.

Thanks!
--Jessica
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 16:10:08 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> My mom asked if I knew what type of material hair shirts were made of in the Middle Ages.
> Her guess was some type of unrefined animal hair, and I took that one step further to
> guess maybe at a loosely spun wool. (A woolen as opposed to a worsted?) Does anyone
> out there know for sure, or have another theory? We're just curious.

Being *no* expert on this, I will jump in with what I have heard.

I was under the impression that the a hair shirt was a shirt made from the skin of a goat (I
think) and then worn fur side in.

I'd love to know the reality.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

A. I don't think these people, who are making a genuine effort and
>creating the garb themselves should be knocked. I looked at the photos and
>the garment appears to be well made with some attention to detail, like the
>matching waist pouch with a flap. Even the materials picked are better than
>alot of the Historic Clothing Businesses out there use. From the description
>I'm imagining it's a cotton twill.
>
True, but I would have been more impressed if the seller hadn't told a flat
out lie about the periods for which it was appropriate. And if she didn't
know any better, she should have spent five minutes with a costume book to
learn.  

Margo

"One Tough Costumer"
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm

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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 17:58:40 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Quick trip to NYC
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 10/14/99 4:11:28 PM !!!First Boot!!!, 
fairmans@teleport.com writes:

<< Hi
 >
 > I've been thinking about a weekend trip for my husband & I (& our 3 kids) 
in
 > late October & was wondering if anyone had any ideas about interesting
 > costume/museum outtings for us.  The kids are 12,11,10 & would love to do
 > some really fun stuff.  I would like to drop by anywhere that has any
 > costume exhibits, European Art (or a great fabric store).  We'd also be
 > looking for somewhere to stay -- fairly central & pretty CHEAP.
 >
 > Looking forward to any help you can offer (reply privately if you wish!)
 >
 > Thanks >>


Hi,
      OK, The Metropolitan Museum of Art is spectacular...it has a costume 
gallery..not very big, but some nice stuff.  When I was there right after 
Versacce  died, they had an exhibit of his costumes that he had designed, but 
right now ( I was there in Ausgust) They have an exhibit of white garments 
through history.  Starts about the time of Louis XIV and works foreward...all 
the dresses and clothing is in white...pretty spectacular....anyhow...I could 
ramble forever.
    When I go to NY, I always spend a day between there and The Cloisters.  
The Cloisters is the branch of the Metropolitan that deals with medieval 
art....it is fantastic if you like that time period....some wonderful samples 
of medieval velvets and brocades can be found there.  Here is where The 
Unicorn Tapestries are housed.  There weapons and all kinds of art stuff that 
might apeal to kids.  You can catch the number 4 bus to the Cloisters...it's 
the last stop on the route before turning around....it's on the very 
northern? tip of manhatten if you catch the bus somewhere in the 30's ie 
31st, 32nd st etc....you will get a really nice drive across the island.  you 
will see some increadible churches on the route, as well as seeing the island 
it self.  
    The Cloisters and the Met are closed on Monday, but on Saturday the Met 
closes at 9.  What I do, is hit the Cloisters early when they open ( 9 or 10 
I believe) and spend some time there, head out about 2 and take a bus back to 
The Met and spend some time there untill closing at 9.  It's not ideal if you 
want to see everything, but It works if you only have a Saturday in which to 
see them.
    Along with everything else...The Met has an increadible armour 
exhibit...the kids might like this....swords, helms, plate armour, horse 
armour, all the trappings!!!!
I'm not sure if this was posted yet, if so.....sorry, if not that's one of my 
suggestions.

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 16:48:43 1999
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Pourpoints & Houppelands
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 15:00:29 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


Robin, and any of the other ladies & gents on the Pourpoint thread,
There's an illumination on the inside front cover of "Parades et Parures",
(Boccacio, "De Cleres at Nobles Femmes", circa 1402, BNF Paris). Wish I
could find it online, but the BNF is not responding right now. Here's a
verbal description:
The Seducer: Knee-length houppeland, body portion black, assiettes bright
pink, turning into bag sleeves? w/ yellow-green dagging; lined w/ brown fur;
red-orange pointy toed boots.
Demoiselle studying: Yellow (deep gold) houppeland, w/ safety orange lining
visible inside dagged sleeve, matching orange belt, fitted sleeves of a deep
purple cotte visible.

My questions are these:
Is his pink & black garment truly a houppeland even in this different cut?
Is it a haincelin?
Are the sleeves still cut in the same "grandes assiette manner"? If so, how
does it turn into a bag?
Is his dagging applied as trim, set into a seam I cant see or artistic
license?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 16:50:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 18:02:41 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Check this out!
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

Oh dear......1200-1700.....hmmm, quite a versatile outfit I would assume 
<grin>

Chas
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Yet another reason for me to go back to Bruges....

Kathleen Norvell
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Let me add to the list of 17th century reenactment groups:

McLean's Company of O'Donnell's Regiment of Irishe Foote (English Civil War)

c/o David S. Mallinak
4301 29th St.
Mount Rainer, MD 20712
matchlck@erols.com

I have been a member of this company for many years. I think we were the only 
group NOT mentioned in the Smoke & Fire article on the Battle of the Severn.

Kathleen Norvell
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Extant fabrics?
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> So, if you had the opportunity to have a private tour of the Henry Art
> Gallery's costume and textile collection pre-1600 in Seattle would you
> travel far to do it?  

>From the moon, if need be! Heck, I'd even help 'em set the darn thing up! I
hope this works out! (Gee, I use '!' a lot . . .)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 17:21:36 1999
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From: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910142131.OAA30103@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: Recent posts
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 18:38:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>

Colleen wrote:
<...I would respectfully ask people to stop and consider what they post and
how it might be taken...My point is that the commentary that just went on
could intimidate or offend, or, at the very least, make newcomers or people
who are not experts think that we are not interested in helping them
improve...

Kyna wrote:
<But do be at least helpful in posts and point out
pleasantly, what might have been down to make it more period or better sewn.

I must say, I have to agree with Colleen and Kyna.  I also must point out
that I have seen this very same thing happen numerous times on this list and
others.  You have to view this list as a room full of people you barely know
in which everyone can hear exactly what you are saying.  Would you want
everyone in this room to hear the comments and jokes made earlier?  There
are over 350 people on this list....listening.  Please choose your comments
more wisely.  If the dress is wrong, take some time to let others know of
the corrections that need to be made to be accurate.

Someone wrote:
<True, but I would have been more impressed if the seller hadn't told a flat
out lie about the periods for which it was appropriate. And if she didn't
know any better, she should have spent five minutes with a costume book to
learn.

How do you know it is a "lie" and not just a mistake?  How many discussions
has this list had about the inaccuracy of many costume books readily
available, especially for the medieval/renaissance period?  I myself, have
learned from many here that some books I have read are wrong.  Before I came
to this list, I had no idea of the importance of extensive research, sifting
through inaccuracies only to find more questions about what really did
exist.  Then where do you go from there?  The false information given in the
seller's description may very well have come from some of the incorrect
costuming books on the market today.

Once again.  The point of our discussions is not to criticize but to teach
(and learn).  We do not know the person selling the garment on Ebay or what
research he/she may or may not have done.  People are bidding on this
garment because they like it and it's inexpensive.  We also do not know, who
in this room is offended by jokes, non- constructive comments and
accusations.  Let's all please remember that comments should be positive.
Even when giving instructions on improving garments...we need to do it in a
polite manner.

Okay, I am through freaking out.  I should be away from the computer
finsihing my sewing project anyways.

Erica D. Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Warning!  This site is still under-construction.  Online store coming soon!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 17:33:04 1999
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From: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject:  H-COST: Front lacing bodices
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-Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>

Cynthia wrote:
<Probably from paintings like this.  Granted the "wench" bodices aren't
accurate but many of the bodices in these paintings do lace in the front.
http://www.lepg.org/gallery.htm

I think I am confused.  Aren't these "wench" bodices?  How does a "wench"
bodice differ from the ones shown in the paintings?

Erica D. Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Warning!  This site is still under-construction.  Online store coming soon!

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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Granted the "wench" bodices aren't
> accurate but many of the bodices in these paintings do lace in the front.
> http://www.lepg.org/gallery.htm
>
> I think I am confused.  Aren't these "wench" bodices?  How does a "wench"
> bodice differ from the ones shown in the paintings?

Wandering off into opinion territory here.  This is my opinion.  The ladies in
these pictures are ladies with respectable jobs.  They are not wenches.  These
are not wench bodices.

The wench bodices I am familiar with here in my neck of the woods (An
Tir/Seattle WA) lace tightly so that the edges of the fabric meet.  The front
edges of the fabric doesn't meet in those pictues.  And the in the More Family
portrait those front edges don't touch either.  There is a good 5-6 inches of
stomacher showing under the laces.  Wench bodices don't do this.  Many, many
wench bodices here don't even cover the breasts but leave them hanging above or
outside of the bodice front, only the chemise (underwear) covering them for
modesty.  Not very modest.  Not what a respectable medieval woman would have
worn.  Not in my opinion.  Ergo, wench.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 19:36:30 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 20:49:26 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: Hair shirts
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I recently saw a picture of one -- a saint's relic -- in a book about saints. 
It was a library book, but I think I still have it. I'll check and report 
tomorrow. But it was NOT any kind of skin worn hair-side in, it was knotted 
from what looked like twine, which was made out of some sort of hair. I don't 
think it was human hair, but I'm not sure. It looked kind of like one of 
those net produce bags, but it was definitely a shirt.

Anyway, it caught my eye because I'd never seen one. And of course, this one 
may not be the way all hair shirts were made. More tomorrow --

Gail

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 20:53:56 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Patterns (was patterns overseas)
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <lgsteph@golden.net>

Hi, Diana,

>What is the name of your business and where are you situated ?Do you
>have a website ?
>(So many questions in one mail ;-)...).

	We're called Five Rivers Chapmanry, located in Orangeville,
Ontario. Website is in the tagline. Apologies if you have difficulty
getting in. Our provider has run across a difficulty and has assured me it
will be corrected this evening. If you do have difficulty, please notify me
and I will keep you apprised of my provider's progress.

	Patterns will not be on the website until mid-December.

Lorina Stephens

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage & fine
hand-sewn garments http://www.5rivers.org e-mail: info@5rivers.org


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 22:04:04 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 22:10:59 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair Shirt?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
> My mom asked if I knew what type of material hair shirts were made of 
>in the Middle Ages. Her guess was some type of unrefined animal hair, 
>and I took that one step further to guess maybe at a loosely spun wool. 
>(A woolen as opposed to a worsted?) Does anyone out there know for 
>sure, or have another theory? We're just curious.

That's easy.  We have an example in St. Birgitta's hair shirt. (a
description of which can be found at
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/brgtagl.html).

It's made from knotted hair from horse and cow tails.

Marc
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>How do you know it is a "lie" and not just a mistake?  How many discussions
>has this list had about the inaccuracy of many costume books readily
>available, especially for the medieval/renaissance period?  I myself, have
>learned from many here that some books I have read are wrong.  Before I came
>to this list, I had no idea of the importance of extensive research, sifting
>through inaccuracies only to find more questions about what really did
>exist.  Then where do you go from there?  The false information given in the
>seller's description may very well have come from some of the incorrect
>costuming books on the market today.
>
Well, I've been reading costume books, good and bad, for a lot of years, and
I can't recall ever seeing one that would give the impression that a boned,
laced bodice, drawstring necked smock, skirt worn over hoops, and flat cap
would be "typical of middle class european ladies in the period from the
1200's to the 17'00's."

However, out of curiousity, I have emailed the seller and asked her how she
arrived at these dates.  If she answers, I'll share her reply with the list.  

Margo Anderson 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 22:43:24 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 21:08:50 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



I can't seem to figure out why the reserve hasn't been met yet. When I
looked at it it was at 138.00. I wonder how much the seller is wanting for
it.   It seems a little pricy to me but, I sew.
  As far as what Margo said about the '5 minutes to learn,' I wonder if the
seller  is quoting the pattern. That may have been the years quoted by the
pattern producers.  I am not sure where the pattern came from though.
Michelle
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>A. I don't think these people, who are making a genuine effort and
>>creating the garb themselves should be knocked. I looked at the photos and
>>the garment appears to be well made with some attention to detail, like
the
>>matching waist pouch with a flap. Even the materials picked are better
than
>>alot of the Historic Clothing Businesses out there use. From the
description
>>I'm imagining it's a cotton twill.
>>
>True, but I would have been more impressed if the seller hadn't told a flat
>out lie about the periods for which it was appropriate. And if she didn't
>know any better, she should have spent five minutes with a costume book to
>learn.
>
>Margo
>
>"One Tough Costumer"
>http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 22:55:41 1999
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From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: NY trip
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

Don't forget the Bob Mackie exhibit (wish I could go-he's one of my
favorite designers!)
Bob Mackie is having a retrospective exhibit of his work starting today
(Sept. 21) at Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in NY. It will include
150 of his gowns, plus photos and videos as well as the outfits.

Can anyone tell me if there's a book/catalogue?  How to get it?  TIA.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 23:43:37 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair Shirt?
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 21:56:50 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

While not claiming in any way to be an expert, I have read (have forgotten
sources) that horsehair (mane or tail) was woven or somehow knitted
together.  No doubt in the most uncomfortable way.  I also recall that
Hercules, in a recurring variation of the Greek myth, was killed by wearing
a shirt woven of the poisoned hair of a Centaur.

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: October 14, 1999 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair Shirt?


>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> My mom asked if I knew what type of material hair shirts were made of in
the Middle Ages.
>> Her guess was some type of unrefined animal hair, and I took that one
step further to
>> guess maybe at a loosely spun wool. (A woolen as opposed to a worsted?)
Does anyone
>> out there know for sure, or have another theory? We're just curious.
>
>Being *no* expert on this, I will jump in with what I have heard.
>
>I was under the impression that the a hair shirt was a shirt made from the
skin of a goat (I
>think) and then worn fur side in.
>
>I'd love to know the reality.
>
>Cynthia
>--
>Cynthia Long
>Merouda the True of Beaumaris
>Barony of Madrone
>Kingdom of An Tir
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 14 23:50:57 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair Shirt?/Ebay
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Wow!!  AM I ever glad that Marc has posted this, because it feels so good to
have been on the right track with my earlier posting.  Hate to lead anyone
astray with wrong info.

I looked at the Ebay site - and wished that more people that attended SCA
events in my area got at least this close, or even cracked a book to see if
the write up is at all accurate.  We have a lot of fabulous costumers in the
area who are willing to teach, but few new people seem to want to learn from
them.

My 2 pence worth,
Zelda


-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: October 14, 1999 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair Shirt?


>
>-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
><"Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
>> My mom asked if I knew what type of material hair shirts were made of
>>in the Middle Ages. Her guess was some type of unrefined animal hair,
>>and I took that one step further to guess maybe at a loosely spun wool.
>>(A woolen as opposed to a worsted?) Does anyone out there know for
>>sure, or have another theory? We're just curious.
>
>That's easy.  We have an example in St. Birgitta's hair shirt. (a
>description of which can be found at
>http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/brgtagl.html).
>
>It's made from knotted hair from horse and cow tails.
>
>Marc

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 00:57:00 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

It's been pointed out to me that it was rude of me to say that the person
selling the "1200-1700 Wench Dress"  was lying when she wrote her description.

I truly believed that no one could possibly get it this wrong without
deliberate falsehood.  However, I just got this email from the seller:  

>The dates as stated are incorrect, it's 1400's to 1700's Elizabethan
>according to several SCA members who do that period and to the costume books
>that I rely on for pictures.

Okay, I take it back, some people (and, apparently, some books) really are
that unknowing.

Margo Anderson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 01:16:09 1999
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In rereading all the well-intentioned comments which are in opposition to the 
others of us on this list having fun at the expense of an obviously 
ill-informed 
E-bay seller, I have to say that I must take issue with the presumption that 
the seller should be treated with kid gloves.  She is offering something for 
sale, and is putting forth the item together with a representation as to its 
authenticity.  This is something about which we (the list) have a great deal 
of collective knowledge.  It is fair game.  It is not the same as attacking 
someone who came to this list for advice or offering an opinion.  It is also 
really hard not to notice that anyone would state that any garment was 
appropriate to cover a 500-year time period under any circumstances.  I think 
there is some burden of responsibility for accuracy in information incumbent 
on anyone who is trying to sell me something and who is claiming to know 
something about that item.

I understand that the list should remain as pleasant a place as possible to 
exchange ideas,  but it [the seller's claim] was an amusing statement, and 
since it was given under the guise of alleged knowledge about the suitability 
of an item which was for sale, I think its examination here totally 
appropriate.  I honestly don't think it's worth all this much hoo hah.

It just seems that if we cannot speak critically about "Historical Costume" 
(and that's just what the seller was claiming to be selling) then we should 
just up and disband now, folks.   JMHO

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"Do you not know I am a woman?.  When I think, I must speak."
As You Like It; III, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 02:09:34 1999
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From: "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Japanese hakama patterns
Message-Id: <939972154.26562.599@excite.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 00:22:34 PDT
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-Poster: "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com>

Hi, I'm looking for a hakama pattern;  I've found the Folkwear Pattern,
Round Earth and Costume Connection ones.  Does anyone know of any others and
can anyone comment on these patterns?  The Costume Connection one looks
wrong (no pleats, added belt)..but it's hard to tell in the illustration.
Thanks!

     --Maureen




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 03:38:10 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Costume Trip To Seattle
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

Greetings Friends,

Please allow me to apologize for the bandwidth, but I deleted the post 
regarding the textile "tour" in Seattle.  For the record I WOULD travel to 
it.  A days drive for myself & at least 4 or 5 others in our local costuming 
guild.  Please e-mail me privately w/the information.

Sorry to take up the space.

Cheers
Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 03:57:26 1999
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From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: new pattern?
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings Franchesca wrote:

> McCalls has a pattern that I have never seen before
>
> http://www.nampa.net/lucretia/9-10pattern9427.jpg
>
> Is this new? What do you all think of it? What fixes can we do?

I don't know if it's new, or how to fix it, but my first impressions were
rather silly. I suppose the openings at the shoulder and forearm (should be
elbow) are where the chemise is supposed to puff through, but at first glance,
it looks like she got it caught on a door knob and just pulled. That would
explain the hole in the forearm and the tear at the shoulder. :-}

The one on the left, I'd at least switch the colors and make the chemise
off-white and the overdress blue.

Just musing,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 05:46:38 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Japanese hakama patterns
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 07:04:51 -0500
x-sender: tr002203-elisee@williams.tricreations.com
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From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>

I carry the Costume Connection pattern.  The hakama does have several 
large pleats stitched onto two belts, one that ties to the front, with an 
added trapezoidal shape in the back, and one that ties to the back.  It 
makes up beautifully and looks comfortable to wear.  The hakama take over 
4 yards of 60" wide fabric, 4 7/8 in the larger sizes in 45".

I would be interested in contact information for Round Earth to add them 
to the stock of the shop.

Lisee
www.sewingcentral.com

maureen+ brown wrote:

>
>-Poster: "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com>
>
>Hi, I'm looking for a hakama pattern;  I've found the Folkwear Pattern,
>Round Earth and Costume Connection ones.  Does anyone know of any others and
>can anyone comment on these patterns?  The Costume Connection one looks
>wrong (no pleats, added belt)..but it's hard to tell in the illustration.
>Thanks!
>
>     --Maureen
>
>
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.5fa7a417.253823f0@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>



>
> -Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>
> In rereading all the well-intentioned comments which are in opposition to
the
> others of us on this list having fun at the expense of an obviously
> ill-informed
> E-bay seller, I have to say that I must take issue with the presumption
that
> the seller should be treated with kid gloves.  She is offering something
for
> sale, and is putting forth the item together with a representation as to
its
> authenticity.  This is something about which we (the list) have a great
deal
> of collective knowledge.  It is fair game.  It is not the same as
attacking
> someone who came to this list for advice or offering an opinion.  It is
also
> really hard not to notice that anyone would state that any garment was
> appropriate to cover a 500-year time period under any circumstances.  I
think
> there is some burden of responsibility for accuracy in information
incumbent
> on anyone who is trying to sell me something and who is claiming to know
> something about that item.
>
> I understand that the list should remain as pleasant a place as possible
to
> exchange ideas,  but it [the seller's claim] was an amusing statement, and
> since it was given under the guise of alleged knowledge about the
suitability
> of an item which was for sale, I think its examination here totally
> appropriate.  I honestly don't think it's worth all this much hoo hah.
>
> It just seems that if we cannot speak critically about "Historical
Costume"
> (and that's just what the seller was claiming to be selling) then we
should
> just up and disband now, folks.   JMHO
>
> angela


Very true Angela, and posts that do speak critically but constructfully are
not what I was referring to. Margo was the only one that jumped in as a
defense sort of, but I wasn't singling her out, hers at least listed
something she thought incorrect as did some others.  Unfortunately I just
cleaned out my email folders about two days ago and don't have any of the
comments saved. If I remember correctly some were along the lines of "can
you believe their selling this" and seeming to laugh. No constructive
criticism in that. It was just a suggestion that rather than making a
comment which could be construed as laughing at the person, or catty and not
giving a constructive reason why or suggestions as to what could have been
done, the statement serves no purpose. ::shrugs:: If something is that bad
in someone's eyes that it's below examination and constructive comment,
perhaps it doesn't need comment at all. Because someone reading this list
that doesn't know *why* folks are seeming to be I can't think of the right
word, because cruel is too strong but I think you understand what I'm
getting at. Comments like "Oh my gawd ::laughs::"  might turn of a newer
lurking member off, so that we never get to hear their questions and
observations on *worthy* topics. I certainly wasn't suggesting that people
not criticize....just that perhaps they should consider doing it in a
constructive and helpful manner...for the sake of others on the list in this
case, who may have thought there was nothing wrong with the scope of dates
1200-1700 for that dress.

Last on that subject from me :::chuckles:: *it's* not worthy of a huge
debate and taking the lists time...I just wanted to clarify.

~Kyna

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 07:30:04 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 05:56:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: new pattern?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


I bought this pattern for the underdress... but I
figured out that if you have any talent at patterning
for yourself whatsoever, it was alltogether
unnecessary... but for some people who don't have that
knack, it was okay... but I must say, I really don't
like the overdress... personal preference...

Sarah

--- Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
> 
> Greetings Franchesca wrote:
> 
> > McCalls has a pattern that I have never seen
> before
> >
> > http://www.nampa.net/lucretia/9-10pattern9427.jpg
> >
> > Is this new? What do you all think of it? What
> fixes can we do?
> 
> I don't know if it's new, or how to fix it, but my
> first impressions were
> rather silly. I suppose the openings at the shoulder
> and forearm (should be
> elbow) are where the chemise is supposed to puff
> through, but at first glance,
> it looks like she got it caught on a door knob and
> just pulled. That would
> explain the hole in the forearm and the tear at the
> shoulder. :-}
> 
> The one on the left, I'd at least switch the colors
> and make the chemise
> off-white and the overdress blue.
> 
> Just musing,
> 
> Dietmar
> 
> 
> "Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
>  over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
> 


=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 07:52:13 1999
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From: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.5fa7a417.253823f0@aol.com> <002b01bf1706$10f50940$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 08:10:33 -0500
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-Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>

As a new arrival with the SCA and an ademate lurker, I want you to know that
I got the BEST laugh out of this one and the starting comments about the
garment.  In fact, I did not get irritated until the members of the list
began slamming each other.  Please---let's just laugh and have some fun with
it !  I happen to agree that someone who presents themself as an expert and
gives incorrect information has left themselves open for any insuing
comments and the information about how incorrect the dress was might have
saved a new SCA mamber from purchasing the gown and thinking it would be
appropriate for their time period.   Back to lurking !

Gwinevere
----- Original Message -----
From: Kyna Grannd <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts


>
> -Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
>
>
>
> >
> > -Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
> >
> > In rereading all the well-intentioned comments which are in opposition
to
> the
> > others of us on this list having fun at the expense of an obviously
> > ill-informed
> > E-bay seller, I have to say that I must take issue with the presumption
> that
> > the seller should be treated with kid gloves.  She is offering something
> for
> > sale, and is putting forth the item together with a representation as to
> its
> > authenticity.  This is something about which we (the list) have a great
> deal
> > of collective knowledge.  It is fair game.  It is not the same as
> attacking
> > someone who came to this list for advice or offering an opinion.  It is
> also
> > really hard not to notice that anyone would state that any garment was
> > appropriate to cover a 500-year time period under any circumstances.  I
> think
> > there is some burden of responsibility for accuracy in information
> incumbent
> > on anyone who is trying to sell me something and who is claiming to know
> > something about that item.
> >
> > I understand that the list should remain as pleasant a place as possible
> to
> > exchange ideas,  but it [the seller's claim] was an amusing statement,
and
> > since it was given under the guise of alleged knowledge about the
> suitability
> > of an item which was for sale, I think its examination here totally
> > appropriate.  I honestly don't think it's worth all this much hoo hah.
> >
> > It just seems that if we cannot speak critically about "Historical
> Costume"
> > (and that's just what the seller was claiming to be selling) then we
> should
> > just up and disband now, folks.   JMHO
> >
> > angela
>
>
> Very true Angela, and posts that do speak critically but constructfully
are
> not what I was referring to. Margo was the only one that jumped in as a
> defense sort of, but I wasn't singling her out, hers at least listed
> something she thought incorrect as did some others.  Unfortunately I just
> cleaned out my email folders about two days ago and don't have any of the
> comments saved. If I remember correctly some were along the lines of "can
> you believe their selling this" and seeming to laugh. No constructive
> criticism in that. It was just a suggestion that rather than making a
> comment which could be construed as laughing at the person, or catty and
not
> giving a constructive reason why or suggestions as to what could have been
> done, the statement serves no purpose. ::shrugs:: If something is that bad
> in someone's eyes that it's below examination and constructive comment,
> perhaps it doesn't need comment at all. Because someone reading this list
> that doesn't know *why* folks are seeming to be I can't think of the right
> word, because cruel is too strong but I think you understand what I'm
> getting at. Comments like "Oh my gawd ::laughs::"  might turn of a newer
> lurking member off, so that we never get to hear their questions and
> observations on *worthy* topics. I certainly wasn't suggesting that people
> not criticize....just that perhaps they should consider doing it in a
> constructive and helpful manner...for the sake of others on the list in
this
> case, who may have thought there was nothing wrong with the scope of dates
> 1200-1700 for that dress.
>
> Last on that subject from me :::chuckles:: *it's* not worthy of a huge
> debate and taking the lists time...I just wanted to clarify.
>
> ~Kyna
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 07:59:21 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 06:26:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

Okay, I will apologize for my earlier post... but I
guess it just irritates me... I tried the e-bay
thing... I did both "historical" and "fantasy"
stuff... but I tried my hardest to use really good
quality materials and quality work... but I never got
a bid higher than $10... and then I see something that
is described as a "denim material" going for those
kind of prices... it is frustrating!  I have no
problem with people doing what they want as far as
costuming, I guess I just have a problem with how
people approach their purchases.

Again, I apologize if I offended...

Sarah


--- "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Diane M. Mathews"
> <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
> 
> As a new arrival with the SCA and an ademate lurker,
> I want you to know that
> I got the BEST laugh out of this one and the
> starting comments about the
> garment.  In fact, I did not get irritated until the
> members of the list
> began slamming each other.  Please---let's just
> laugh and have some fun with
> it !  I happen to agree that someone who presents
> themself as an expert and
> gives incorrect information has left themselves open
> for any insuing
> comments and the information about how incorrect the
> dress was might have
> saved a new SCA mamber from purchasing the gown and
> thinking it would be
> appropriate for their time period.   Back to lurking
> !
> 
> Gwinevere
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kyna Grannd <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 7:09 AM
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
> 
> 
> >
> > -Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > -Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
> > >
> > > In rereading all the well-intentioned comments
> which are in opposition
> to
> > the
> > > others of us on this list having fun at the
> expense of an obviously
> > > ill-informed
> > > E-bay seller, I have to say that I must take
> issue with the presumption
> > that
> > > the seller should be treated with kid gloves. 
> She is offering something
> > for
> > > sale, and is putting forth the item together
> with a representation as to
> > its
> > > authenticity.  This is something about which we
> (the list) have a great
> > deal
> > > of collective knowledge.  It is fair game.  It
> is not the same as
> > attacking
> > > someone who came to this list for advice or
> offering an opinion.  It is
> > also
> > > really hard not to notice that anyone would
> state that any garment was
> > > appropriate to cover a 500-year time period
> under any circumstances.  I
> > think
> > > there is some burden of responsibility for
> accuracy in information
> > incumbent
> > > on anyone who is trying to sell me something and
> who is claiming to know
> > > something about that item.
> > >
> > > I understand that the list should remain as
> pleasant a place as possible
> > to
> > > exchange ideas,  but it [the seller's claim] was
> an amusing statement,
> and
> > > since it was given under the guise of alleged
> knowledge about the
> > suitability
> > > of an item which was for sale, I think its
> examination here totally
> > > appropriate.  I honestly don't think it's worth
> all this much hoo hah.
> > >
> > > It just seems that if we cannot speak critically
> about "Historical
> > Costume"
> > > (and that's just what the seller was claiming to
> be selling) then we
> > should
> > > just up and disband now, folks.   JMHO
> > >
> > > angela
> >
> >
> > Very true Angela, and posts that do speak
> critically but constructfully
> are
> > not what I was referring to. Margo was the only
> one that jumped in as a
> > defense sort of, but I wasn't singling her out,
> hers at least listed
> > something she thought incorrect as did some
> others.  Unfortunately I just
> > cleaned out my email folders about two days ago
> and don't have any of the
> > comments saved. If I remember correctly some were
> along the lines of "can
> > you believe their selling this" and seeming to
> laugh. No constructive
> > criticism in that. It was just a suggestion that
> rather than making a
> > comment which could be construed as laughing at
> the person, or catty and
> not
> > giving a constructive reason why or suggestions as
> to what could have been
> > done, the statement serves no purpose. ::shrugs::
> If something is that bad
> > in someone's eyes that it's below examination and
> constructive comment,
> > perhaps it doesn't need comment at all. Because
> someone reading this list
> > that doesn't know *why* folks are seeming to be I
> can't think of the right
> > word, because cruel is too strong but I think you
> understand what I'm
> > getting at. Comments like "Oh my gawd ::laughs::" 
> might turn of a newer
> > lurking member off, so that we never get to hear
> their questions and
> > observations on *worthy* topics. I certainly
> wasn't suggesting that people
> > not criticize....just that perhaps they should
> consider doing it in a
> > constructive and helpful manner...for the sake of
> others on the list in
> this
> > case, who may have thought there was nothing wrong
> with the scope of dates
> > 1200-1700 for that dress.
> >
> > Last on that subject from me :::chuckles:: *it's*
> not worthy of a huge
> > debate and taking the lists time...I just wanted
> to clarify.
> >
> > ~Kyna
> >


=====

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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 06:17:23 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 11:09 PM 10/14/1999 -0700, you wrote:-Poster: Margo Anderson
<margo@directcon.net>
However, I just got this email from the seller:  The dates as stated are
incorrect, it's 1400's to 1700's Elizabethan according to several SCA
members who do that period and to the costume books that I rely on for
pictures.
               It's embarrassing that someone who is a member of the SCA
would give her that range of dates, esp. since the SCA 'period' is
Medieval/Early Renaissance, and thus is not generally considered to extend
much past 1650, although the corpora of the Society was made to flex and
some do extend the dates, preferring to enact the Cavalier period.  It is
exactly this sort of incident that gives many in the scholarly
community/academia the impression that people in the SCA don't bother to
research.  Most of the people with whom I interact in the SCA do research
meticulously for the delight of it, but one example like this one does much
to perpetuate the stereotype of SCA as a place to dress up and party and
not for serious work. It would be useful to have a bibliography of the
costuming books this lady is relying upon for her information.  Perhaps the
lady will now look for other sources.  It will also make me even more
exacting about any information may I give others, so that there will be
little room for such inaccuracies / for possible misinterpretation to creep
in.  Thanks, Margo.   Carol
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 09:29:54 EDT
Subject:  Re: H-COST: Recent posts VERY LONG
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-Poster: Morses3@aol.com

I've read all the posts concerning this item listed on eBay and I feel like I 
need to delurk and mention a few things....

I am a full time antique dealer and I've been selling on eBay for over a year 
in addition to my other outlets. I have a feedback rating of over 600, so 
I've completed a few transactions and might be able to shed some perspective 
here.

First of all, I absolutely believe that if a person assumes the 
responsibility to sell merchandise to the public, that they also assume the 
responsibility to be an informed seller and present their merchandise 
correctly and with the best information possible.  I have to agree with the 
posts about the information in the listing mentioned that was, politely, 
inaccurate.

I know that many people feel like someone should not be "slammed", perhaps 
because it's a first effort, etc., and that's all fine in the arena of 
presenting something as part of a hobby. Once you cross over the line into 
selling, you assume a different role with different obligations to the people 
to whom you are selling.

To address the point of others selling on eBay and not having their 
merchandise well received, I can only say welcome to the world of selling. I 
often find that when dealing with the public, my own taste concerning 
merchandise is more evolved (if for no other reason than the fact that I'm 
more exposed to the merchandise regularly than they are), and often the best 
things don't get the attention they receive. (I also try to use this to my 
advantage and buy those things when I see them :-)  )  eBay, even more than 
other methods of selling, makes this true. Sometimes, things don't photograph 
well, sometimes the copy isn't written to enhance the item properly, and 
sometimes, everything is great, but the right buyers just aren't there THAT 
MINUTE.  Remember, it's an auction and the dynamic of buying and selling is 
different from it would be in a shop or booth at a show.

I think it's important for everyone to remember not to take this personally 
and let their feeling get hurt. For the seller, they SHOULD be better 
informed if they are in business, which is the position they put themselves 
in when they offered to sell to the public at large. For others selling more 
accurate or "better" merchandise, I say don't give up, maybe you just haven't 
hit the right combination yet (and remember, you have to sell what others 
want to buy, not what you want to sell them). 

Perry
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From: "Leed, Drea" <Drea.Leed@lexis-nexis.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Stubbes on Jerkins
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-Poster: "Leed, Drea" <Drea.Leed@lexis-nexis.com>


And just to throw another fish into the pot, here's a quote from
Phillip Stubbes (Elizabethan commentator extroardinaire) on the
subject (written in 1583:)

"Their coates and Jerkins, as they be diverse in colors, so be they
diverse in fashions; for some be made with colors, some without, some
close to the bodie, some loose, covering the whole body downe to the
theighe, like baggs or sacks that weare

drawen over them, hidinge the dimensions and proportions of the body:
some are buttened down the brest, some under the arm, and some downe
the back; some with flappes over the brest, some without, some with
great sleeves, some with small, and some with non at all; some pleated
and crested behind, and curiously gathered; some not so; & how many
days so many sortes of apparell some one man will have, and thinketh
it good provision in faire weather to lay up against a storme! "

>Several people have emailed me asking where they can find Janet Arnold's
>discussion of jerkins and doublets.  Look on page 144 of Queen Elizabeth's
>Wardrobe Unlocked.  (yes, I know this is a book on one woman's clothing,
but
>she's discussing men's clothing in relation to the fashion of women wearing
>doublets and jerkins.)

>She discusses doublets, jerkins, and the fact that it is difficult to
>distinguish between the two.   The idea that it is a matter of sleeved vs
>unsleeved is dispelled, however it may have been that a doublet had the
>sleeves sewn in and a jerkin had detachable sleeves.  Just to confuse
>matters even more, there's a reference to a "doublet made jerkinwise".

Drea 


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From: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendra@tweedlebop.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Quick trip to NYC
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-Poster: "Kendra Van Cleave" <kendra@tweedlebop.com>


Not sure if anyone has replied re: costume museums, so I wanted to recommend
the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of art
(http://www.costumeinstitute.org/), the Museum of the City of New York
(http://www.mcny.org/) and the museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
(http://www.fitnyc.suny.edu/happening/6.0.html).

Have fun!

Kendra






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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 09:04:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 09:17:06 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Japanese hakama patterns
In-Reply-To: <939972154.26562.599@excite.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

I have a theatrical costume book that has a good one that I use. I tweak
it a little but then when don't we. I can put a schetch of it on my
costume site for you tonight to see if it would work. If so I would
recomment the book for you to get. It has no instructions other than how
to enlarge the pattern to whatever size you need it but since I have made
several I am will to help you. However, I highly recommend the folkwear
one, everyone has it for sale on their pattern site, it is 16.00 at the
cheapest so shop around, I have seen too many sites with it at 25.00 not
including shipping!

Email me privately if you want the site that has it at the lower price.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Fri, 15 Oct 1999, maureen+ brown wrote:

> Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 00:22:34 PDT
> From: maureen+ brown <edolen@excite.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Japanese hakama patterns
> 
> 
> -Poster: "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com>
> 
> Hi, I'm looking for a hakama pattern;  I've found the Folkwear Pattern,
> Round Earth and Costume Connection ones.  Does anyone know of any others and
> can anyone comment on these patterns?  The Costume Connection one looks
> wrong (no pleats, added belt)..but it's hard to tell in the illustration.
> Thanks!
> 
>      --Maureen
> 
> 

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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

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MabelHello dear list,
I hope you'll forgive me for filling your mailbox, especially those of =
you who receive the cross-postings!  This message arrived from another =
of my lists, and I hope it might be of interest to you all here, since =
these groups are mostly women (And of course our gentlemen have mothers, =
and perhaps sisters, wives, friends and girlfriends as well. =3D) )

Thanks for reading, and have a wonderful weekend!
Kerrie

Subject: Breast Cancer

Please read and pass on.  It would be wonderful if 1999 were
the year a cure for breast cancer was found!!!!

This is one note I'll gladly pass on.  The notion that we
could raise $16 million by buying a book of stamps  is powerful!

As you may be aware, October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month.
The U.S. Postal Service recently released its "Fund the Cure" stamp to
help fund breast cancer research. The stamp was designed by Ethel =
Kessler
of Bethesda, Maryland.   It is important that we take a stand against =
this disease that kills and maims so many of our mothers, sisters, =
friends.
Instead of the normal $.33 for a stamp, this one costs $.40.  The
additional $.07 will go to breast cancer research. A "normal" book costs
$6.60.  This one is only $8.00.  It takes a few minutes in line at the =
Post
Office and means so much. If all stamps are sold, it will raise an
additional $16,000,000 for this vital research!  Just as important  as =
the
money is our support. What a statement it would make if the stamp =
outsold
the lottery this week. What a statement it would make that we care.

I urge each of you to do two things TODAY:
1. Go out and purchase some of these stamps.
2. E-mail your friends to do the same.

Many of us know women and their families whose lives are
turned upside-down by breast cancer.  It takes so little to do so
much in this drive. Please help!





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<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Mabel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"">
<DIV align=3Dleft>Hello dear list,</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>I hope you'll forgive me for filling your mailbox, =
especially=20
those of you who receive the cross-postings!&nbsp; This =
message&nbsp;arrived=20
from another of my lists, and I&nbsp;hope it might be of interest to you =
all=20
here, since these groups are mostly women (And of course our gentlemen =
have=20
mothers,&nbsp;and perhaps sisters, wives, friends and girlfriends as =
well. =3D)=20
)</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>Thanks for reading, and have a wonderful =
weekend!</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>Kerrie</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft><BR>Subject: Breast Cancer</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Please read and pass on.&nbsp; It would be wonderful if 1999=20
were<BR>the year a cure for breast cancer was found!!!!</DIV>
<DIV><BR>This is one note I'll gladly pass on.&nbsp; The notion that =
we<BR>could=20
raise $16 million by buying a book of stamps&nbsp; is powerful!</DIV>
<DIV><BR>As you may be aware, October is Breast Cancer Awareness =
Month.<BR>The=20
U.S. Postal Service recently released its "Fund the Cure" stamp =
to<BR>help fund=20
breast cancer research. The stamp was designed by Ethel Kessler<BR>of =
Bethesda,=20
Maryland.&nbsp;&nbsp; It is important that we take a stand against this =
disease=20
that kills and maims so many of our mothers, sisters, =
friends.<BR>Instead of the=20
normal $.33 for a stamp, this one costs $.40.&nbsp; The<BR>additional =
$.07 will=20
go to breast cancer research. A "normal" book costs<BR>$6.60.&nbsp; This =
one is=20
only $8.00.&nbsp; It takes a few minutes in line at the Post<BR>Office =
and means=20
so much. If all stamps are sold, it will raise an<BR>additional =
$16,000,000 for=20
this vital research!&nbsp; Just as important&nbsp; as the<BR>money is =
our=20
support. What a statement it would make if the stamp outsold<BR>the =
lottery this=20
week. What a statement it would make that we care.<BR><BR>I urge each of =
you to=20
do two things TODAY:<BR>1. Go out and purchase some of these =
stamps.<BR>2.=20
E-mail your friends to do the same.</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Many of us know women and their families whose lives =
are<BR>turned=20
upside-down by breast cancer.&nbsp; It takes so little to do so<BR>much =
in this=20
drive. Please help!<BR><BR></DIV>
<P></P>
<CENTER>&nbsp;</CENTER></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 09:14:31 1999
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From: "RSewellBrown" <rsewellbrown@computerlink.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: recent posts
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 07:34:53 -0700
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-Poster: "RSewellBrown" <rsewellbrown@computerlink.com>

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----- Original Message -----=20
To: MzScahlett@aol.com=20


Well said!  It is not a crime,yet, to be well educated and to poke a =
little mild fun at someone who professes to be and obviously isn't.

Thanks for your courageously un-p.c. reply.  We have not all been =
assimilated yet!

Rebecca

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<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----=20
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:MzScahlett@aol.com"=20
title=3DMzScahlett@aol.com>MzScahlett@aol.com</A> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Well said!&nbsp; It is not a crime,yet,&nbsp;to be =
well=20
educated and to poke a little mild fun at someone who professes to be =
and=20
obviously isn't.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks for your courageously un-p.c. reply.&nbsp; We have not all =
been=20
assimilated yet!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rebecca</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <vintage@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Breast Cancer Fundraiser (OT)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:37:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

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Mabel

Hello dear list,
I hope you'll forgive me for filling your mailbox, especially those of =
you who receive the cross-postings!  This message arrived from another =
of my lists, and I hope it might be of interest to you all here, since =
these groups are mostly women (And of course our gentlemen have mothers, =
and perhaps sisters, wives, friends and girlfriends as well. =3D) )

Thanks for reading, and have a wonderful weekend!
Kerrie

Subject: Breast Cancer

Please read and pass on.  It would be wonderful if 1999 were
the year a cure for breast cancer was found!!!!

This is one note I'll gladly pass on.  The notion that we
could raise $16 million by buying a book of stamps  is powerful!

As you may be aware, October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month.
The U.S. Postal Service recently released its "Fund the Cure" stamp to
help fund breast cancer research. The stamp was designed by Ethel =
Kessler
of Bethesda, Maryland.   It is important that we take a stand against =
this disease that kills and maims so many of our mothers, sisters, =
friends.
Instead of the normal $.33 for a stamp, this one costs $.40.  The
additional $.07 will go to breast cancer research. A "normal" book costs
$6.60.  This one is only $8.00.  It takes a few minutes in line at the =
Post
Office and means so much. If all stamps are sold, it will raise an
additional $16,000,000 for this vital research!  Just as important  as =
the
money is our support. What a statement it would make if the stamp =
outsold
the lottery this week. What a statement it would make that we care.

I urge each of you to do two things TODAY:
1. Go out and purchase some of these stamps.
2. E-mail your friends to do the same.

Many of us know women and their families whose lives are
turned upside-down by breast cancer.  It takes so little to do so
much in this drive. Please help!







------=_NextPart_000_006B_01BF16F9.51265E40
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Mabel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"">
<CENTER>&nbsp;</CENTER>
<P></P>
<DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>Hello dear list,</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>I hope you'll forgive me for filling your mailbox, =
especially=20
those of you who receive the cross-postings!&nbsp; This =
message&nbsp;arrived=20
from another of my lists, and I&nbsp;hope it might be of interest to you =
all=20
here, since these groups are mostly women (And of course our gentlemen =
have=20
mothers,&nbsp;and perhaps sisters, wives, friends and girlfriends as =
well. =3D)=20
)</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>Thanks for reading, and have a wonderful =
weekend!</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>Kerrie</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft><BR>Subject: Breast Cancer</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Please read and pass on.&nbsp; It would be wonderful if 1999=20
were<BR>the year a cure for breast cancer was found!!!!</DIV>
<DIV><BR>This is one note I'll gladly pass on.&nbsp; The notion that =
we<BR>could=20
raise $16 million by buying a book of stamps&nbsp; is powerful!</DIV>
<DIV><BR>As you may be aware, October is Breast Cancer Awareness =
Month.<BR>The=20
U.S. Postal Service recently released its "Fund the Cure" stamp =
to<BR>help fund=20
breast cancer research. The stamp was designed by Ethel Kessler<BR>of =
Bethesda,=20
Maryland.&nbsp;&nbsp; It is important that we take a stand against this =
disease=20
that kills and maims so many of our mothers, sisters, =
friends.<BR>Instead of the=20
normal $.33 for a stamp, this one costs $.40.&nbsp; The<BR>additional =
$.07 will=20
go to breast cancer research. A "normal" book costs<BR>$6.60.&nbsp; This =
one is=20
only $8.00.&nbsp; It takes a few minutes in line at the Post<BR>Office =
and means=20
so much. If all stamps are sold, it will raise an<BR>additional =
$16,000,000 for=20
this vital research!&nbsp; Just as important&nbsp; as the<BR>money is =
our=20
support. What a statement it would make if the stamp outsold<BR>the =
lottery this=20
week. What a statement it would make that we care.<BR><BR>I urge each of =
you to=20
do two things TODAY:<BR>1. Go out and purchase some of these =
stamps.<BR>2.=20
E-mail your friends to do the same.</DIV>
<DIV><BR>Many of us know women and their families whose lives =
are<BR>turned=20
upside-down by breast cancer.&nbsp; It takes so little to do so<BR>much =
in this=20
drive. Please help!<BR><BR></DIV>
<P></P>
<CENTER>&nbsp;</CENTER></DIV>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 09:35:58 1999
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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

I would like to support Kyna that the topic had got out of hand.  It really is not polite to talk about a person's actions in a forum where they do not have a chance to see the critique or respond directly.  Regardless of technical expertise or even being right, it is hurtful.  

Then again, there is a really tough line to draw from when discussion is constructive (like sharing critiques of patterns) and hurtful.  Sometimes I don't know myself when I go over the line...

For instance, if I were a pattern drafter, I would be especially upset if I read when someone wrote a bad review my pattern--I wouldn't know if this person were out of their technical depth or if he/she just plain didn't follow instructions. I know of another email list that has descended into petty squabbles over historical accuracy.  For some folk, I geuss this is a compelling debate.  For me, it was like having a contentious argument intrude on in my life a couple times a day.  I got weary and unsubscribed.

Some of my most embarassing moments have come from making stupid assertions unknowingly to genuine experts.  The experts who got me as their true disciples were the ones who corrected me gently and kept my ignorance in confidence. I really don't like making stupid mistakes and I'd really rather minimize the times I've made them.

Anyhow, I think this really isn't a contentous listserve.  Generally, we only talk about ourselves.  I'm staying subscribed, guys and gals!

Also, one other point.  I'm not an SCA'er, but one of the things I have respected most about that organization is the "A" in "SCA"--anachronism.  From the very start, it seems that SCA has had a understanding of the intrinsinctly anachronistic side of reenacting.  Within this there are various ranges of accuracy and assumptions--but they are all anachronisms.

We don't live in (and events aren't occuring in) a past time, so at best, reenacting can only be an impression--not a recreation of a past time.  I think this is truly to SCA's credit--sadly, an element that frequently is ignored in other reenacting activities.  It really gets disturbing when people bring contentious modern concerns out and use reenacting as a forum for advocacy.  Well, that is another topic for discussion...

Over and out,
Mary 
---
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 09:42:10 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I used the Folkwear Pattern for a Production of "The Mikado".  It isn't
really a "pattern", but a set of instructions on how to draft it for
various sizes.  My husband reduced it to a formula so we could just put
the body measurements into the computer and it came up with the correct
distances between points for each person.  Since they varied from waist
24" to 63" and there were about 20 pants to make, this was helpful. 
Instructions were simple enough for my "mixed bag" of volunteer sewers. 
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:17:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
In-Reply-To: <199910150609.XAA20663@apollo.directcon.net>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


This whole discussion got me curious to finally look up this thing to see
just what was being offered for sale, and how it was represented. I don't
need to repeat the other opinions on the list -- I think most of us can
see the errors. But the statement the lady gave Margo was enlightening:

> >The dates as stated are incorrect, it's 1400's to 1700's Elizabethan
> >according to several SCA members who do that period and to the costume books
> >that I rely on for pictures.

I wouldn't be too harsh on the SCA for this one, at least not without
further detail.  (I don't think there are many in the SCA who would refer
to "1400s Elizabethan.")  But I can envision a scenario that would explain
this unawareness, because I've seen similar things before. Imagine this:

Someone is planning on going to a costumed event -- a wedding, maybe --
but knows next-to-nothing about medieval/renaissance costume, and she
can't sew at all. For help, she calls on a friend who does sew.  The
friend does mostly modern stuff; maybe she's done a little theater or
opera costume -- 18th and 19th century.  Hmm, this can't be hard, says the
friend, and flips open a few of the books she has on hand, which have
maybe three or four drawings of "generic medieval" or "generic
Elizabethan" and a paragraph of description. She brings to the task her
own incomplete knowledge of "historic costume" and the needs of people who
wear costume for parties and/or performances: maybe you want to use hoops,
maybe not, make the bodice reversible so you can change the look, etc. She
makes the dress...

...and the client moves away before it's done, or changes her mind and
doesn't pay, or the wedding is called off, or something.

So she decides to sell it off on ebay. But how to write it up? She shows
the costume to some friends who have done SCA and/or Faire. They are
polite. One of them says, "Well, this part looks Elizabethan." Another one
says, "They were wearing tie-on sleeves as early as the 1400s."  Another
says, "Be sure you cover the hair, no woman at this time would get caught
dead with her hair showing." Comments like these, with no context or
background, combine with the paragraph or two in her generic books to
create a rather garbled image of what people in "that early time" wore.

Once she sells this, she probably will never do another
medieval/renaissance job again. (Or, worse, she'll decide that now that
she's done one, she can go market her skills to all those people with
ready money in the SCA...) 

In my experience, a lot of people graduate from school with a collapsed
view of early modern history -- "medieval" and "Elizabethan" are not
distinct terms, and it's all jumbled up with the feudal system and knights
in shining armor and Shakespeare. Fantasy art and the generic Hollywood
images that mix up hundreds of years' worth of styles feed that
misunderstanding. 

My guess is that the people who are bidding on this clothing are also have
that collapsed view, and they recognize that wench-dress image as generic
medieval/renaissance. Lots of people have a use for this -- maybe they
want to sell their pottery at Faires and need something to wear, or they
want a fantasy costume for a con, or they do storytelling programs for
children, or whatever. Unfortunately, historical knowledge (or historical
costume knowledge) isn't as common among the public as it is on this list.

--Robin


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 10:19:45 1999
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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: H-Costume: Ebay Sellers (longish)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:27:23 -0500
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


I have to admit that I am one of those less experienced costumers 
getting bummed out by the recent snarkfest, until (as usually happens)
the discussion swung back to more gracious ground.  I do want to hear what 
should be different about any given item (some of which we have heard 
already), but there is definately a qualitative difference between 
constructive criticism and snarking.

I am, however, a slightly experienced ebay seller (not costumes, but handmade), buyer, 
general collector of sales trends & techniques.  

For  Sarah -- I don't know how many times or when you attempted selling 
your garments on Ebay, but recently I've seen many *better* quality elizabethan 
& tudor garments sell in what I think is a reasonable price range.  There is 
currently quite a range of quality/accuracy in costume and clothing being offered, 
and keywords are sometimes a little hard to sift through to find what a buyer 
is looking for.  ('Renaissance' + 'costume'/'clothing'/'garb' will bring up 
everything from gunne sax & prom dresses to the high end 'will build for 
you'  custom stuff)  I would suggest using as many (applicable, of course) 
keywords in the first few sentences of your description) including Handmade, 
handsewn, clothing, costume, garb, historical, etc.   Give garment measurments 
as well as approximate 'off-the-rack' size.  Also, quality pictures are 
SO important, accurate color especially. showing details on a garment is even 
better! Describe the fabric. Some catagories have regular shoppers that reject 
anything posted with a reserve price -- costuming does not seem to suffer from this. 
So you can set your reserve reasonably, set your starting bid high enough 
to denote that you're selling handmade goods (if I saw off the first listing 
"Renaissance dress"  with a bid or starting bid of $10, I would assume that it 
was off-the-rack goth garb and not even look)  

In general:
If you can, post more items before the last round of your auctions expire.   This 
allows people to check 'other auctions by seller'  from the auction page, and they 
may see something that didn't come up in their search.
Be willing to take lower amounts if you don't have a feedback rating yet, 
and be patient.  Once the 'regulars'   find you, they will check for auctions 
by your username.  Your feedback rating is like gold -- treasure it and nurture 
it..  I will NOT buy from anyone with recent or abundant negative feedback.  I *do*  
read what feedback has been left-- positive feedback that says "exactly as 
advertised"  is lukewarm.. I am usually double critical of the descriptions of those 
sellers.


I would love to see more quality historical items for sale -- I have limited time to 
sew, and less time to research at the moment. Still gotta wear something, though.

BTW, has anyone considered leaving neutral feedback comments on the seller & 
item in question? something like " no clothing ensemble is accurate for all of a 500 
year span. "

then bidders are warned, if they bother to check feedback

Carrie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 10:31:14 1999
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From: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.5fa7a417.253823f0@aol.com> <002b01bf1706$10f50940$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 11:43:43 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>

I just wanted to point out that most of us showing objection to some rude or
rash remarks made about an inaccurate garment and its mistaken description
on Ebay, were not saying "do not criticize".  I fully agree that all the
inaccuracies should be pointed out so others may learn.  My point was be
constructive and polite.  Once again, you are speaking to 350 people you do
not know.  Choose a more politically correct way of wording what bothers you
about an inaccurate garment.  Those that do not know better will be thankful
to learn why the garment is wrong, but many will be offended when you attack
the ill-informed dressmaker rather than the dress.

Just a couple more of my cents.

Erica D. Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Warning!  This site is still under construction.  Online store coming soon!

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References: <0.5fa7a417.253823f0@aol.com> <002b01bf1706$10f50940$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com> <017801bf170e$b173cac0$6c6b1f26@camelot>
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-Poster: Stephen Fairman <fairmans@teleport.com>



"Diane M. Mathews" wrote:

> -Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
>
> As a new arrival with the SCA and an ademate lurker, I want you to know that
> I got the BEST laugh out of this one and the starting comments about the
> garment.  In fact, I did not get irritated until the members of the list
> began slamming each other.  Please---let's just laugh and have some fun with
> it !  I happen to agree that someone who presents themself as an expert and
> gives incorrect information has left themselves open for any insuing
> comments and the information about how incorrect the dress was might have
> saved a new SCA mamber from purchasing the gown and thinking it would be
> appropriate for their time period.   Back to lurking !
>
> Gwinevere
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kyna Grannd <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 7:09 AM
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
>
>
> > > It just seems that if we cannot speak critically about "Historical
> > Costume"
> > > (and that's just what the seller was claiming to be selling) then we
> > should
> > > just up and disband now, folks.   JMHO
> > >
> > > angela
> >
> >
> > Very true Angela, and posts that do speak critically but constructfully
> are
> > not what I was referring to. Margo was the only one that jumped in as a
> > defense sort of, but I wasn't singling her out, hers at least listed
> > something she thought incorrect as did some others.  Unfortunately I just
> > cleaned out my email folders about two days ago and don't have any of the
> > comments saved. If I remember correctly some were along the lines of "can
> > you believe their selling this" and seeming to laugh. No constructive
> > criticism in that. It was just a suggestion that rather than making a
> > comment which could be construed as laughing at the person, or catty and
> not
> > giving a constructive reason why or suggestions as to what could have been
> > done, the statement serves no purpose. ::shrugs:: If something is that bad
> > in someone's eyes that it's below examination and constructive comment,
> > perhaps it doesn't need comment at all. Because someone reading this list
> > that doesn't know *why* folks are seeming to be I can't think of the right
> > word, because cruel is too strong but I think you understand what I'm
> > getting at. Comments like "Oh my gawd ::laughs::"  might turn of a newer
> > lurking member off, so that we never get to hear their questions and
> > observations on *worthy* topics. I certainly wasn't suggesting that people
> > not criticize....just that perhaps they should consider doing it in a
> > constructive and helpful manner...for the sake of others on the list in
> this
> > case, who may have thought there was nothing wrong with the scope of dates
> > 1200-1700 for that dress.
> >
> > Last on that subject from me :::chuckles:: *it's* not worthy of a huge
> > debate and taking the lists time...I just wanted to clarify.
> >
> > ~Kyna
> >

 Just my 2 cents worth:  I appreciated the comments.  As a renaissance clothing
seller, I get upset at the people who are selling clothing without adequate
documentation.  If you go to the trouble to sell on ebay, you are attempting to
be a professional.  If so, you have to accurate.  Too many people get misled and
spend a great deal of time and money on making or buying something that is not
accurate.  Since the reserve on the auction has not been met yet, the seller is
attempting to sell at a professional price and should be accurate as to the
source and documentation.  If not, she should be met with critical comment from
those of us who take the time and effort to be accurate.

Yours
Esteban McLachan
Shadow's Treasure Chest
http://www.cyberis.net/~fairman1

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 10:33:12 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 08:47:44 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> > McCalls has a pattern that I have never seen before
> > http://www.nampa.net/lucretia/9-10pattern9427.jpg

Well I would make the underdress white, the overdresses colored.  I would make the
bodice tighter.  I would make the sleeves of the overdress tighter and the sleeves
of the underdress fuller and make sure to pull them out of the gaps in the over
sleeves.  I would never in a million zillion years use either headdress.  It looks
to me as though in the teeny picture at the botton of the blue chemise that the
model is wearing a narrow padded headroll.  This would be more appropriate than
either of the other head dresses.

Actually as someone else said, I wouldn't make this one but would turn around and
go to the nearest Joann's and buy the Simplicity Italian.

FWIW,  Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 10:50:10 1999
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From: Gina Torretta <gtorretta@cid.wustl.edu>
To: "'Historic Costuming'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 11:07:40 -0500
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-Poster: Gina Torretta <gtorretta@cid.wustl.edu>

Could I beg the list's indulgence for a brief period and ask of everyone
their favorite
"authentic-period" movies where the costumer really did earn their academy
award
or nomination?
	I've been following the career of Gabriella Pescucci, Deborah Scott
and
Sandy Powell.

-gina
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:54:10 -0500
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Ok, I have to correct all of you on a statement that most have been making
from this person's e-bay clothing. Some of you have ranted about the twill
fabric it was made from. Well, not that I would choose that type of fabric
to make something but a twill weave goes farther back than the 1200-1700 the
maker of the clothing stated it was from. The European decent mummies that
were found in a Chinese desert had a fabric that was of a twill weave. The
textile expert that was called in on this job likened to jeans.....saying
that it was the same weave as our jeans today.
Carol Ross

and then I see something that
>is described as a "denim material" going for those
>kind of prices... it is frustrating!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 11:06:42 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 11:27:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pourpoints & Houppelands
In-Reply-To: <000b01bf168f$87ff8eb0$6b037a86@phoenix.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 14 Oct 1999, Cynthia Barnes wrote:

> Robin, and any of the other ladies & gents on the Pourpoint thread,
> There's an illumination on the inside front cover of "Parades et Parures",
> (Boccacio, "De Cleres at Nobles Femmes", circa 1402, BNF Paris). Wish I
> could find it online, but the BNF is not responding right now. Here's a
> verbal description:
...

Without a picture I couldn't begin to make a guess on the specifics. But
a few stabs regarding your questions:

> Is his pink & black garment truly a houppeland even in this different cut?
> Is it a haincelin?

What's a haincelin? :-) I don't remember hearing that term before. 
Seriously, terminology at the time wasn't standard, so anything we say
today can only be arbitrary. I only worry about terms when I'm reading a
source document and need to figure out what they're referring to, and that
can vary by time and place and language/dialect. Today we have a few terms
that most people will agree on, but even then there's a lot of variation. 
If you think it's a houppeland, I'm sure someone will agree with you, and
someone else won't, and it doesn't really matter. In order to talk about
something, we simply need to make a habit of establishing our definitions
every time. 

> Are the sleeves still cut in the same "grandes assiette manner"? If so, how
> does it turn into a bag?
> Is his dagging applied as trim, set into a seam I cant see or artistic
> license?

No idea without seeing the picture, but I found that once I figured out
how to make a certain form of open sleeve (the cut is not immediately
apparent), then converting it into a bag required only one more seam. I've
seen dagging running along the outer lower edge of a bag sleeve before;
that's where the seam is, so I presume that sort of dagging is set into
the seam. Sometimes you see hanging bells or fringe on that same line.
I've also seen dagging or other decorations along the line of an armhole,
so again I figure it's set into a seam. 

I would use the term "grande assiette" to refer to an armhole that's
deeply cut into the body at the back in a large circular shape. Is that
what you're seeing?  I suppose there's no reason you couldn't use that
armhole with a bag sleeve, though I'd have to see an example to get a
sense of how it might be cut. 

If you do find this image online, or in another book, let me know. This is
the kind of illustration you sometimes see in the Medieval Woman series,
but it didn't come to hand in the few items I just flipped through. 

--Robin

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From: "Design" <design@alincocostumes.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 11:30:42 -0600
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-Poster: "Design" <design@alincocostumes.com>

Cyrano de Bergerac, the French version with Gerard Depardieu.

Kevin

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Gina Torretta
> Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 10:08 AM
> To: 'Historic Costuming'
> Subject: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
>
>
>
> -Poster: Gina Torretta <gtorretta@cid.wustl.edu>
>
> Could I beg the list's indulgence for a brief period and ask of everyone
> their favorite
> "authentic-period" movies where the costumer really did earn their academy
> award
> or nomination?
> 	I've been following the career of Gabriella Pescucci, Deborah Scott
> and
> Sandy Powell.
>
> -gina
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 11:32:32 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 09:46:28 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Could I beg the list's indulgence for a brief period and ask of everyone
> their favorite
> "authentic-period" movies where the costumer really did earn their academy
> award or nomination?

First I'll state that I don't believe it would be possible for a costumer to
make entirely period and authentic costumes for any movie, mainly due to time
and money constraints, but I think some try harder than others.  My personal
favorite costume designer for period films is Sandy Powell.  I think I like her
best because she obviously has a background in historical costuming and she
uses it.  I love that she lavishly embroiders many of the costumes.  And the
actors always look good in what she does.  Her choice of fabrics is exquisite
and I think she has great taste and style.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/15/1999 9:47:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< First I'll state that I don't believe it would be possible for a costumer 
to
 make entirely period and authentic costumes for any movie, mainly due to time
 and money constraints, but I think some try harder than others.  >>

Cynthia, I find your statement intriguing.  I believe I disagree, but am 
unclear as to what you mean by "entirely period"... if you mean down to 
underwear and fastenings that might never be seen, then certainly it is rare, 
but *never* ?? Just curious as to what your meaning was.

I would point you to "Angels & Insects" which I believe has some of the best 
period clothing I've ever seen, as well as a magnificent sense of design & 
use of color for cinema.

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

Cyrano de Bergerac.....costumes by Franca Squarciapino
Perfection!
Also, let's not forget Jenny Beavan & John Bright of Merchant/ Ivory fame!
Also capable of perfection is Piero Tosi but the only films of his I know are 
La Traviata & Death in Venice.
Then there's Danilo Donati, who does the Zeffirelli Shakespeare films & 
Fellini's Satyracon, which may be the most convincing Ancient Rome I've 
seen....though I know it's not actually accurate.
Barry Lyndon is perfection too....that's Milena Cananero [with Ulla-Britt 
Søderlund] . I worked with an assistant of hers, on a TV miniseries. Milena 
kept calling the shop to try to get him to do a show with her. He would roll 
his eyes and exclaim: "She's a nut! I won't do it!" Well...the results of her 
nuttiness are magnificent! [She also did Chariots of Fire]

....to mention a few of my faves!
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <006e01bf171a$d93b6480$80f4fea9@ouppc>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Breast Cancer Fundraiser (OT)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 18:04:04 +0100
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BF1737.AAF3FCA0
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MabelI just had to delurk to correct an false impression that you may =
have inadvertently strengthened.
Breast cancer is not confined to the female of the species, usually yes =
but not solely.
LDM
   ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Vince Lyons=20
   Hello dear list,
  I hope you'll forgive me for filling your mailbox, especially those of =
you who receive the cross-postings!  This message arrived from another =
of my lists, and I hope it might be of interest to you all here, since =
these groups are mostly women (And of course our gentlemen have mothers, =
and perhaps sisters, wives, friends and girlfriends as well. =3D) )

  Thanks for reading, and have a wonderful weekend!
  Kerrie

  =20

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BF1737.AAF3FCA0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Mabel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"" bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I just had to delurk to correct an =
false impression=20
that you may have inadvertently strengthened.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Breast cancer is not confined to the =
female of the=20
species, usually yes but not solely.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>LDM</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">&nbsp;----- Original Message ----- =
</DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:vjlyons@snip.net" title=3Dvjlyons@snip.net>Vince =
Lyons</A>=20
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B></B></DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><STRONG>&nbsp;</STRONG>Hello dear =
list,</DIV>
  <DIV>
  <DIV align=3Dleft>I hope you'll forgive me for filling your mailbox, =
especially=20
  those of you who receive the cross-postings!&nbsp; This =
message&nbsp;arrived=20
  from another of my lists, and I&nbsp;hope it might be of interest to =
you all=20
  here, since these groups are mostly women (And of course our gentlemen =
have=20
  mothers,&nbsp;and perhaps sisters, wives, friends and girlfriends as =
well. =3D)=20
  )</DIV>
  <DIV align=3Dleft>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV align=3Dleft>Thanks for reading, and have a wonderful =
weekend!</DIV>
  <DIV align=3Dleft>Kerrie</DIV>
  <DIV align=3Dleft><BR> </DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/15/1999 12:49:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< First I'll state that I don't believe it would be possible for a costumer 
to
 make entirely period and authentic costumes for any movie, mainly due to time
 and money constraints, but I think some try harder than others. >>


Check out the 2 part Little Doritt....with Derek Jacobe & Alec Guiness. All 
the clothes were actually made by hand. It took 2 years.
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/15/1999 12:49:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< My personal
 favorite costume designer for period films is Sandy Powell. >>

As you all know I love to remind everyone....I worked with her on Interview 
with the Vampire. She is lovely & charming and part of her success is she 
loves input from her assistants and cutters. She likes an accurate cut but 
will be liberal with fabric choices. She also loves dangerous color schemes. 
...which she works to perfection. I'm so glad she won an Oscar....'bout time!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 12:06:56 1999
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From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

I'm partial to the costumes in Resurection I think it's called, it's been so long since I've seen it. It had meg ryan and robert downey Jr. in it. I think it won a costuming award but I"m not sure.

---
Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure

ask of everyone
>their favorite
>"authentic-period" movies where the costumer really did earn their academy
>award
>or nomination?


Get free e-mail with a women.com membership at http://women.com
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:20:56 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Cynthia, I find your statement intriguing.  I believe I disagree, but am
> unclear as to what you mean by "entirely period"... if you mean down to
> underwear and fastenings that might never be seen, then certainly it is rare,
> but *never* ?? Just curious as to what your meaning was.

I mean every single detail.  Head to toe.  Websters:  "Entire, Having no part left
out, being without limitation or reservation, complete, intact".  And I do mean
accurate.  Given time and money, they could probably do it.  Would they?  I doubt
it.  Should they?  Personal opinion.  Truly it would then depend on the era
wouldn't it?  Pre-1550 it would be close to impossible for anyone, for any reason,
to create a fully accurate ensemble since we don't know everything about every
item of  clothing earlier than that.  Right?

 I realize that the one thing I left out was the title of my favorite period
costume movie.  Hmmmm.  That's a really really tough question.  I *love*
_Interview with a Vampire_ for the men's clothing, accurate or not.  For women's
clothing, I liked _Robin Hood_, the one with Patrick Bergen and Uma Thurman,
accurate or not.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Pourpoints & Houppelands
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-Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu


<Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>>
> What's a haincelin? :-) I don't remember hearing that 
>term before.

Personally, I don't have a clue.

> Seriously, terminology at the time wasn't standard, so 
>anything we say today can only be arbitrary...

Unfortunately, while this is true enough, I'm not 
certain that it isn't overstating the issue far enough 
that it makes it somewhat pointless to try and even 
asume we know what we are talking about.

I agree though that we do need to be careful to define 
what we are talking about.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 12:22:18 1999
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From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


Maybe not perfect, but I recall that the clothing in Robin & Marian had
the right "hang" to it, and nice little details that many costumers miss.
I haven't seen the movie since the early 1980s, though, so maybe my
standards would be higher now. 

The designer for that -- Yvonne or Yvette something? I forget -- also did
Nicholas & Alexandra, which had a sumptuous look. That period is out of my
specialty area, so I have no idea if it was accurate at all. 

I'm also remembering the clothing in Dragonslayer, a middlin'-quality
fantasy movie that actually had some good early-medieval costumes, with
things like hand-stitching on collars that you could see in closeups.
Again, my judgment might be different if I saw it today -- it's been maybe
20 years.  With fantasy, I suppose designers have a lot of leeway, but
it's nice to see them do something that has some grounding in reality.

I've noticed that the leading lady or the ingenue often is not dressed as
authentically as the other characters. The usual reason cited is that
the leading lady can insist on clothes that are sexy/attractive by modern
standards, which usually means a different silhouette, colors, fabrics,
cleavage, hairdo, etc. Or maybe it's the director that does the insisting.
Or maybe the costume designer has more control over the lesser actors...

In The Lion In Winter, I always much preferred Eleanor, properly wimpled,
to the sexy young Alys, whose dress would have been completely beyond the
pale of respectable to medieval eyes. 

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 12:27:57 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Restoration!  From the moment I saw the film, I thought there goes the
Costuming Oscar! And it won.

Later... Penny

> Could I beg the list's indulgence for a brief period and ask of everyone
> their favorite
> "authentic-period" movies where the costumer really did earn their academy
> award
> or nomination?
> I've been following the career of Gabriella Pescucci, Deborah Scott
> and
> Sandy Powell.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 12:28:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 13:24:34 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: wench, was Front lacing bodices
In-Reply-To: <3806616D.8788791@serv.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Speaking as someone who works at a Ren. Faire where some people call
themselves by the name of wench, and having seen some pretty 'revealing'
examples of bodices on said wenches, I feel the need to reply.

What are commonly thought of as 'wench bodices', by our customers, are
usually without sleeves or sleeve attachments, are front-lacing, and are
sometimes cut below the breasts (leaving the poor overworked chemise to try
to do the job usually done by a bra).  My guess is that this bodice
originally derived from the Bermondsly (sp?) Wedding picture, by way of
several costume directors, many different bodice manufacturers, and decades
of usage.  The 'wench' bodices in the B.W. picture are respectably
high-cut, and front closing.  At Faire, ours are anywhere from pretty
correct to pure fantasy.

My understanding of the word wench is that originally it meant lower class
young woman and only later came to mean 'available' lower class young
woman.  So many of our young female participants call themselves wench
without meaning anything their mothers wouldn't approve of.  Wench a word
our customers know, so they delight in calling all our female ale stand
servers by that name.  I even get called wench, at age 50, when they aren't
calling me milady, the only other word they know for woman.

>> Granted the "wench" bodices aren't
>> accurate but many of the bodices in these paintings do lace in the front.
>> http://www.lepg.org/gallery.htm
>>
>> I think I am confused.  Aren't these "wench" bodices?  How does a "wench"
>> bodice differ from the ones shown in the paintings?
>
>Wandering off into opinion territory here.  This is my opinion.  The ladies in
>these pictures are ladies with respectable jobs.  They are not wenches.  These
>are not wench bodices.
>
>The wench bodices I am familiar with here in my neck of the woods (An
>Tir/Seattle WA) lace tightly so that the edges of the fabric meet.  The front
>edges of the fabric doesn't meet in those pictues.  And the in the More Family
>portrait those front edges don't touch either.  There is a good 5-6 inches of
>stomacher showing under the laces.  Wench bodices don't do this.  Many, many
>wench bodices here don't even cover the breasts but leave them hanging
above or
>outside of the bodice front, only the chemise (underwear) covering them for
>modesty.  Not very modest.  Not what a respectable medieval woman would have
>worn.  Not in my opinion.  Ergo, wench.
>
>Cynthia
>--
>Cynthia Long
>Merouda the True of Beaumaris
>Barony of Madrone
>Kingdom of An Tir
>
>



Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 12:45:23 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 13:35:33 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Stubbes on Jerkins
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

What country was he talking about - Germany?

>And just to throw another fish into the pot, here's a quote from
>Phillip Stubbes (Elizabethan commentator extroardinaire) on the
>subject (written in 1583:)
>
>"Their coates and Jerkins, as they be diverse in colors, so be they
>diverse in fashions; for some be made with colors, some without, some
>close to the bodie, some loose, covering the whole body downe to the
>theighe, like baggs or sacks that weare
>
>drawen over them, hidinge the dimensions and proportions of the body:
>some are buttened down the brest, some under the arm, and some downe
>the back; some with flappes over the brest, some without, some with
>great sleeves, some with small, and some with non at all; some pleated
>and crested behind, and curiously gathered; some not so; & how many
>days so many sortes of apparell some one man will have, and thinketh
>it good provision in faire weather to lay up against a storme! "



Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 12:45:31 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 13:28:38 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Check this out!
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.3.96.991014105537.22308D-100000@general1.asu.edu>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

What's all the fuss?  It's someone's old Ren. Faire outfit.  I've seen MUCH
worse.

KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu writes, in a message sent 10:56 A 10/14/99 -0700:
>
>-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180321545
>



Kayta
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <006e01bf171a$d93b6480$80f4fea9@ouppc> <001d01bf172f$696e20b0$7e065cc3@herimats>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Breast Cancer Fundraiser (OT)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:01:22 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0057_01BF1715.C3746340
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Mabel
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: LDMundy=20
  Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 1:04 PM
  Subject: Re: H-COST: Breast Cancer Fundraiser (OT)


  >I just had to delurk to correct an false impression that you may have =
>inadvertently strengthened.
  >Breast cancer is not confined to the female of the species, usually =
yes but not >solely.
  >LDM

  Yes, you're right of course.  This year the American Cancer Society =
estimates that there will be about 175,000 new cases of invasive breast =
cancer this year among women in the United States and about 43,300 =
deaths from the disease,  statistics for men are 1,300 diagnosed with =
approximately 400 deaths.

  The death rate for men would likely be much lower if they were more =
aware of the disease and obtained aggressive treatment earlier.



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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Mabel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"" bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk"=20
  title=3Ddave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>LDMundy</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, October 15, 1999 =
1:04=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: H-COST: Breast =
Cancer=20
  Fundraiser (OT)</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&gt;I just had to delurk to correct =
an false=20
  impression that you may have &gt;inadvertently =
strengthened.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&gt;Breast cancer is not confined to =
the female=20
  of the species, usually yes but not &gt;solely.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&gt;LDM</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Yes, you're right of course.&nbsp; =
This year the=20
  American Cancer Society estimates that there will be about 175,000 new =
cases=20
  of invasive breast cancer this year among women in the United States =
and about=20
  43,300 deaths from the disease,&nbsp; statistics for men are 1,300 =
diagnosed=20
  with approximately 400 deaths.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The death rate for men would likely =
be much lower=20
  if they were more aware of the disease and obtained aggressive =
treatment=20
  earlier.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 12:51:04 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
Message-Id: <940009185.16407.133@excite.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:39:45 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> Could I beg the list's indulgence for a brief period and ask of everyone
> their favorite
> "authentic-period" movies where the costumer really did earn their
academy
> award
> or nomination?
> 	I've been following the career of Gabriella Pescucci, Deborah Scott
> and
> Sandy Powell.
> 
> -gina

I don't know about the level of accuracy for this one, but it rates pretty
high on the inspiration side: Coppola's(sp?) Dracula. I loved nearly every
one of the costumes, even the odd ones worn by Lucy. (Though I'm not sure
I'd go for the lace thing around my neck that she was buried in. Is that
remotely period for anywhen?)

I also very much liked the costumes in Age of Innocence. The gown of pale
satin with the purple embroidery is a great favorite. 

Actually, it just occured to me that the woman wearing the costumes I liked
best in both these films is Winona Ryder. From what I've read, she has a
small enough figure to fit into corsetted style garments, without a whole
lot of corsetting. Which means that if I ever get around to recreating any
of these dresses, I'm not going to get *quite* the same look! ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 13:05:28 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:16:01 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 12:57 PM 10/15/99 EDT, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 10/15/1999 9:47:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
>keltia@serv.net writes:
>
><< First I'll state that I don't believe it would be possible for a costumer 
>to
> make entirely period and authentic costumes for any movie, mainly due to time
> and money constraints, but I think some try harder than others.  >>
>
>Cynthia, I find your statement intriguing.  I believe I disagree, but am 
>unclear as to what you mean by "entirely period"... if you mean down to 
>underwear and fastenings that might never be seen, then certainly it is rare, 
>but *never* ?? Just curious as to what your meaning was.
>

        I can not speak for Cynthia, but for most of human history clothing
has been hand sewn from hand woven fabric, perhaps that is what she means.
Of course the ability to make an "entirely period" production depends
greatlt on the period.  Recently I watched "The Great Lebowski".  As a movie
made in the late nineties that is about the early nineties it is a period
film, with very accurate costuming.  

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 13:08:56 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:22:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Stubbes on Jerkins
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19991012133447.00c1ade0@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


He was an Englishman, commenting on English fashion.  I have his collected
opinions on Ruffs, women's hair, shoes, clothing, etc. online at
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/stubbes.html

Drea

On Tue, 12 Oct 1999, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
> What country was he talking about - Germany?
> 
> >And just to throw another fish into the pot, here's a quote from
> >Phillip Stubbes (Elizabethan commentator extroardinaire) on the
> >subject (written in 1583:)
> >
> >"Their coates and Jerkins, as they be diverse in colors, so be they
> >diverse in fashions; for some be made with colors, some without, some
> >close to the bodie, some loose, covering the whole body downe to the
> >theighe, like baggs or sacks that weare
> >
> >drawen over them, hidinge the dimensions and proportions of the body:
> >some are buttened down the brest, some under the arm, and some downe
> >the back; some with flappes over the brest, some without, some with
> >great sleeves, some with small, and some with non at all; some pleated
> >and crested behind, and curiously gathered; some not so; & how many
> >days so many sortes of apparell some one man will have, and thinketh
> >it good provision in faire weather to lay up against a storme! "
> 
> 
> 
> Kayta
>      ////.\\\
>     ////-@@\\\
>    ((((   7 (((
>      |   -- ))))
>      * )   (((((
>   /----\   /---\
> 
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 13:15:58 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: movie accuracy/ was "inspirations"
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/15/1999 10:22:37 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< I mean every single detail.  Head to toe.  Websters:  "Entire, Having no 
part left
 out, being without limitation or reservation, complete, intact".  And I do 
mean
 accurate.  Given time and money, they could probably do it.  Would they?  I 
doubt
 it.  Should they?  Personal opinion.  Truly it would then depend on the era
 wouldn't it?  Pre-1550 it would be close to impossible for anyone, for any 
reason,
 to create a fully accurate ensemble since we don't know everything about 
every
 item of  clothing earlier than that.  Right? >>

I see little benefit in that kind of extreme replication of historical detail 
in film, unless it is a documentary of the construction of the clothing.  
While it is important to note that visible details should be very carefully 
tended to, in order that they appear accurate to their time period, and that 
historical details should be incorporated into the film whenever the plot or 
story merits, I take issue (yes, personal choice here) with the suggested 
position that there is some particular merit that say: garments in a film 
about Ancient Egypt should be hand-woven out of Papyrus reeds, or whatever 
method was used in the past, rather than say, manufactured in a modern way 
which would appear just as accurate (I feel it necessary to reiterate that 
this only works if there is no visual difference in the resultant 
end-product).  It just seems like overkill to me.  

While I "get" why costumers sometimes sew items by hand, or use other 
historically appropriate methods of building costumes for film, and sometimes 
it can and does lend itself to the feel of a story, because it helps the 
actors really feel transported, I think it's generally a bit much, and 
couldn't myself conceive of  a convincing argument for why it would be worth 
all the money and time it would entail.  To say one had done it perhaps?  

Maybe-- but I just don't see film as necessarily the venue for that kind of 
instructive detail, particularly when it appears you're discussing the lack 
of  "details in the invisible" so to speak.  Unless a closeup of a particular 
item of clothing, displaying the "period accurate" construction, lent itself 
to the story,  I don't see it's value to the film.  To the costumer, perhaps, 
as there is always a sense of creative delight in doing things in a well 
thought out and detailed manner.  So my response to the "should they" would 
be no, of course not (with the foregoing provisos).  But, you're right, it's 
just a matter of opinion at that point.  Interesting question though.

angela+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"As in a theater, the eyes of men, 
after a well-graced actor leaves the stage, 
are idly bent on him that enters next, 
thinking his prattle to be tedious."
Richard II;  V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html 
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/15/1999 11:20:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
rcarnegie@widomaker.com writes:

<<   I can not speak for Cynthia, but for most of human history clothing
 has been hand sewn from hand woven fabric, perhaps that is what she means. >>

Without reiterating it here, she did mean exactly that apparently.  I 
responded at length, as the question intrigued me.  I think that I will 
always value "inspiration over accuracy" (to quote a fellow lister) in film 
or stage, the latter being my venue of choice. I understand many find 
accuracy rewarding, and do not begrudge them their own passions, I simply 
believe that what we see should move our souls first, teach us history, a 
distant second.

angela+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 13:24:05 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> << I mean every single detail.  Head to toe.  Websters:  "Entire, Having no
> part left
>  out, being without limitation or reservation, complete, intact".  And I do
> mean accurate
>
> I see little benefit in that kind of extreme replication of historical detail
> in film, unless it is a documentary of the construction of the clothing.

[major snip]

Please don't assume that my comments mean I think this should be so.  I don't.
The question pertained to accuracy of costuming in movies and I said it wasn't
done.  I never said it should be done, just said I didn't think it would be
done.  You're reading *WAY* to much into my comments.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 13:37:04 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:50:03 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie accuracy/ was "inspirations"
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/15/1999 11:40:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< Please don't assume that my comments mean I think this should be so.  I 
don't.
 The question pertained to accuracy of costuming in movies and I said it 
wasn't
 done.  I never said it should be done, just said I didn't think it would be
 done.  You're reading *WAY* to much into my comments >>

Cynthia

Didn't mean to sound as though you were the only one who might take the 
position, but since you brought it up, I was moved to respond with my 
opinion.  I honestly think it's a very valid point of discussion.  Which is 
more important, art or accuracy? When do they coincide? At what point is one 
more valuable than the other? It comes up a lot here on the list, and we're 
certainly divided on the issue.  

I did get the feeling that you believed accuracy to have a certain amount of 
importance and that it's absence in film was something you felt needed 
correcting, but it's a valid point.  It's something I feel rather passionate 
about (could you tell?), but sometimes it's hard not to sound "harsh" in an 
e-mail.  Didn't mean to be abrasive.

Perhaps I was a bit dazed from the bump on my head left by the Webster's 
Dictionary (::rubs head grinning::)  

angela+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,
 and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here,
 while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 13:38:04 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:47:55 -0400
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From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 02:33 PM 10/15/99 EDT, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 10/15/1999 11:20:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
>rcarnegie@widomaker.com writes:
>
><<   I can not speak for Cynthia, but for most of human history clothing
> has been hand sewn from hand woven fabric, perhaps that is what she means. >>
>
>Without reiterating it here, she did mean exactly that apparently.  I 
>responded at length, as the question intrigued me.  I think that I will 
>always value "inspiration over accuracy" (to quote a fellow lister) in film 
>or stage, the latter being my venue of choice. I understand many find 
>accuracy rewarding, and do not begrudge them their own passions, I simply 
>believe that what we see should move our souls first, teach us history, a 
>distant second.
>
        True, but you are creating an argument were none was suggested.
Cynthia stated that costuming could not practicaly be truly authentic, and
then asked her question (that being what films are considered to have an
authentic feel to the costuming by the list members).  Later, some one asked
why she did not think a film could be trully authentic, and so I answered
the question.  Cynthia's comment is true, and you agree that it is not
difficulty.  No one I have read on this thread so far (including myself)
have stated anything different.

        My soul has never been moved by a movie, but it has been by history.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 13:41:07 1999
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

I like Sandy Powell (Shakespeare in Love, Interview with the Vampire,
Orlando, Rob Roy, Wings of the Dove, and several other dazzling
productions) James Acheson (Restoration, the Sheltering Sky, Dangerous
Liaisons), Gabrielle Pescucci (Dangerous Beauty, A Midsummer Night's
Dream,Indochine, Age of Innocence, The Scarlet Letter) Jenny Beavan & John
Bright (Room with a View, Howard's End, Sense and Sensibility).

Drea


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 13:55:41 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> I honestly think it's a very valid point of discussion.  Which is
> more important, art or accuracy? When do they coincide? At what point is one
> more valuable than the other? It comes up a lot here on the list, and we're
> certainly divided on the issue.

It is a good question.  It just wasn't asked.  But since you have now, I would
say that for me I like to see both.

> I did get the feeling that you believed accuracy to have a certain amount of
> importance and that it's absence in film was something you felt needed
> correcting, but it's a valid point.

I certianly never meant to give that feeling.  :)  I felt that it's absence
needed *explaining*.  Not correcting.   I know that some folks on this list *DO*
feel that way, at least to a certain point, judging from the irate comments that
appear on the list after an historical costuming flick has hit the screens.  I
am not one of them.  I do appreciate an attempt on the designer to get the feel
and the silhouette right so that it doesn't jar the psyche but I also appreciate
human creativity.  Personally, while I am a serious researcher and recreator to
the best of my abilities in the SCA, I also believe that the C (Creative) is
desirable.

> It's something I feel rather passionate
> about (could you tell?), but sometimes it's hard not to sound "harsh" in an
> e-mail.  Didn't mean to be abrasive.

Nope, couldn't tell at all.  *G*

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 19:08:17 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:54:10 -0500, the following was written in this
electric book by "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>:

>
>
>Ok, I have to correct all of you on a statement that most have been making
>from this person's e-bay clothing. Some of you have ranted about the twill
>fabric it was made from. 

If you are referring to me, I was merely attempting to surmise what
was meant byt the persom auctioning the dress when she stated
'denim-like', in response to someone who could not figure out what
this person meant. No more. I cannot figure out how you read that into
my posting. <confused>

All I objected to was her use of a white lacing that looked pretty
unattractive (rather like inexpensive white shoelaces) in the context
of such a fantasy outfit. Hopefully the new owner will make a change
there.

I did like the hat. It's pretty, even if it looks like it was borrowed
form someone else's costume :)

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: Pourpoints & Houppelands (grande assiettes)
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>

Robin asked:
>I would use the term "grande assiette" to refer to an armhole that's
>deeply cut into the body at the back in a large circular shape. Is that
>what you're seeing?

yes, exactly. By the way, I asked you & the list whether the term "grandes
assiettes" was modern or something mentioned by 15th contemporaries.  I've
answered by own question.  It is a 15th c term as you can see from these
quotations; your nomenclature is well justified for pourpoints.

1432  “To Perrin Bossout, valet and tailor,  … for assembly of 2 pourpoints
made for MdS in his city of Brouxelles (Brussels), the one of black damasked
cloth in 4 quarters, and the other “a grands assiettes” in VI layers of
fabric & 1 leather”
 For fabric and fashioning of 2 pourpoints [for] MdS in his city of Bruges
in order to go to Holland to be done(derrain?) in black fustian, the one in
4 quarters and of 5 fabric layers, the other “a grandes assiettes” in 3
layers; for each one XLs”
 And for assembly of 2 pourpoints in black fustian that these would be made
in the city of Dijon to put on & wear at Avalon, the one in in 4 quarters
and of 5 fabric layers, the other “a grandes assiettes” in 3 layers; for
each one XLs”

from accounts published in “Les Ducques de Burgoygne" as cited in "Jeanne
d'Arc, ses costumes, son armeur" by A. Harmand and translated by moi.

And also:
* Red “assiettes”, white passé-poils … assiettes deep green, red passé-poils
* A very rich “assiette” of sleeves (menches?) which will be made in one
color (collier?)
* Pourpoint white, assiettes deep green … Pourpoint blue, assiettes light
grey

also cited in "Jeanne d'Arc, ses costumes, son armeur" by A. Harmand and
translated by moi.  You'll also see here the problem word "passé-poils" that
I asked about earlier this week. Parenthetical words are transcribed from
the original text.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:41:27 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pourpoints & Houppelands
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>> Seriously, terminology at the time wasn't standard, so 
>>anything we say today can only be arbitrary...
>
>Unfortunately, while this is true enough, I'm not 
>certain that it isn't overstating the issue far enough 
>that it makes it somewhat pointless to try and even 
>asume we know what we are talking about.
>
>I agree though that we do need to be careful to define 
>what we are talking about.

Ok, let's try this again - actually having a point this
time... :)

Let's look at the term "Doublet", just as an example.  It's
a term that appears frequently in the costuming literature.  
General meaning is a shortish man's garment, fastens up the 
front, may or may not have sleeves, ancestor to modern garments 
like jackets a vests.  Very popular in the 16th century.  
Does anyone have any problem with that?

I have heard some people in modern context differentiate 
between doublets and jerkins, suggesting that the jerkin is
the sleeveless garment.  But if we are talking about clothing 
before 1500 or thereabouts there is a problem with this (since
that's when the earliest appearance of the term "jerkin" is 
in English (OED2)).  "Doublet" appears well before that.

In fact, the earliest noted appearence of "doublet" is in the
Wardrobe accounts of Edward II (1326).  That would seem strange
to me, and wonder what they were referring to, except that I
know that under Edward II men's clothes in England (and perhaps
elsewhere) went through a period of getting very short before
getting longer again.  The term doesn't seem to appear again 
in English until the 1400s (OED2 and MED).  So I think it's not
unreasonable to assume that it meant more or less what we've
defined it to mean.

So, if we turn to the "Charles of Blois" outfit, is that a 
doublet?  By the definition above, sure it is.  But we think
of it as a "pourpoint".  So what is a pourpoint?  I was 
originally taught that it was an undergarment, the sole purpose
of which is to attach one's hose to.

Ok, so, Wilcox (1969) defines Pourpoint as "See gambeson, jerkin, 
action [sic]."  She defines Acton as "See gambeson, pourpoint, 
doublet" (although she shows a sketch of a padded sleeveless 
hip-length garment).  Doublet is defined as "See gambeson, 
jerkin".  "Gambeson or Pourpoint,  a doublet, often sleeveless, 
of leather or cloth, stuffed and quilted.  It was worn as a pad 
under armor in the Middle Ages and in civil dress by men, women, 
and children."  "Jerkin,  In the fourteenth century, the man's 
cote-hardie developed into a garment known as a doublet or 
pourpoint, both words meaning a wadded jerkin, jaque, jacket, or 
gambeson.  A similar garment for women was known as a jerkinet.  
The jerkin became a sort of waistcoat in the north of England, 
worn up to the early twentieth century."

Davies (1994) refers to Pourpoint as "Masc. Close-fitting jerkin,
padded. 14th cent.  Predecessor of doublet (see GIPON)."  "Gipon Masc. 
Padded bodice of 14th century. Forerunner of doublet (see (GYPON)."
"Gypon Masc. Well tailored, fitting garment worn over shirt, later 
called DOUBLET. 14th-17th Cent. (also GIPON)."  However, "Doublet  
Masc. Padded, closefitting body garment, with or without sleeves, 
worn originally under a breastplate.  Later worn over the shirt, 
14th-16th Cent. Sometimes slashed. Became shorter after 17th Cent., 
evolving into the waistcoat (See GAMBESON)." "Gambeson Masc. Padded 
bodice of leather or cloth, worn under armour of Middle Ages.  
Later in the 16th cent., worn by civil. population."  "Jerkin Masc. 
Tight-fitting jacket which replaced the cotehardie in the late 
15th Cent.  Sometimes made of leather...."

Boucher (1966) defines  Pourpoint  as "See Doublet".  "Doublet/Pourpoint  
Originally a quilted garment, i.e. padded with cotton or waste, 
held in place by stitching; worn under the hauberk.  It was a 
variety of gippon or gambeson  in in rich cloth, which passed 
from military to civil costume and became an outer garment from 
the early 14th century.  In the 16th century and up to the 17th 
century it was a garment worn by all men; the shape and trimmings 
changed, but its basic character remained unchanged."  "Gambeson  
Quilted padded garment worn under armour; it passed into civilian 
costume in the 14th century under the name of juppe, gippon, 
pourpoint or doublet". "Gipon/Gippon  Also called jupe, jupel, 
jupon, in the Middle Ages.  A sort of doublet made of padded, 
quilted material.  It was an undergarment and the breeches were 
attached to it; in the mid 14th century it became indistinquishable 
from the doublet and the jacket made in rich materials which 
replaced it."  "Jupe  From the Arabic djuba, jacket.  In the Middle 
Ages it was confused with GIPPON but also meant women's jacket..."

The OED defines Pourpoint  as 1.  Something quilted, such as a Gambais 
purpoint, or a Cuilt purpoint and 2. A doublet, stuffed and quilted,
worn by men in the 14th and 15th centuries.  The additional text 
implies that this is a modern usage.

Obviously, there is a problem here (I selected these three of these 
glossaries because they are commonly used today by costumers).  There's 
no surprise that people are being confused by the topics since the 
sources really don't agree with each other, and appear to be 
contradicting themselves.

This isn't helped by the fact that the definitions change over time
(although that was one of the reasons I picked this example -- details
change, but overall it seems to be the same garment).

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 14:29:24 1999
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From: Gina Torretta <gtorretta@cid.wustl.edu>
To: "'Historic Costuming'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: art vs. accuracy
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:47:23 -0500
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-Poster: Gina Torretta <gtorretta@cid.wustl.edu>

following the transformed thread (and I appreciate all the input on
"movie inspirations") - 

I was recently intrigued by a comment from a relative who is only
marginally aware of the historical validity of clothing. He had seen the
movie Dangerous Beauty and was asking me why the courtesan's
dresses exposed the legs in a majority of the scenes. Was this a 
possible fashion of 16thc Venice? Or just artistic license of Pescucci?

I've spent a month or less perusing my limited art books to discover that
I have *no* art of actual courtesan's couture (in fact I have no idea if a
Toulouse Lautrec could have existed at this time period eaking out a living
doing the portraits of the medieval call girl)

any takers?
-gina
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 15:43:01 -0400
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From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie accuracy/ was "inspirations"
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 12:10 PM 10/15/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> I honestly think it's a very valid point of discussion.  Which is
>> more important, art or accuracy? When do they coincide? At what point is one
>> more valuable than the other? It comes up a lot here on the list, and we're
>> certainly divided on the issue.
>

        Art and accuracy are NOT mutually exclusive terms.  A very high
level of artistic ability is necessary for quite a few historical periods. I
for one am far more impressed with the artistic ability to recreate accurate
clothing than with a costume designers ideas of what SHOULD have been period.  

        Now I am a first person interpreter in a living history mueseum.
Where I work I would prefer a very high level of accuracy (higher than we
have), but many of the same requirements I would expect at work, I would NOT
expect for a movie or theatrical program.  Much of it is unneccesary in that
venue.

        It is far more imortant in my mind, that movie costumes appear
historical than that they be truly authentic.  As example, movies SHOULD use
proper underclothes in most occasions, as they often affect sillouhette, but
handsewn, hand woven, even natural fabric is not so needed.  It is true that
all of these things can affect the visual appearance of the clothing, but
how much of that carries over to the film?  As long as it appears
historically authentic that is fine.  

        The historical accuracy of a period film does affect my enjoyment of
the film, and can lead to my decision even to see the film.  One of my
favourite films is Rob Roy, but many of its costumes are rather inaccurate,
so it does not always stop me from enjoying a film.  Persuasion, the clothes
are my favourite part of that film.  (Innacurate costumes alone are not
enough to stop me from seeing a film, it takes that and a similiar lack of
concern to the other historic concerns like Braveheart).

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 12:59:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costume Designers
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

>Dangerous Liaisons

I must say, I think this is my favorite... the
costuming is great (and I find it inspirational) and
the movie was better! ;-)

An amusing side note:  While I will neither confirm
nor deny that I hated "Cruel Intentions", I found it
amusing that the local college paper hailed it as the
"wonderful and completely original new work"...
Original, huh?  I didn't realise that Dangerous
Liaisons was such an obscure movie that someone on the
newspaper staff would not have heard of it and know
that CI was a remake... ;-)  Anyway, amusing...

Now back to the regularly scheduled topic

=====

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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 21:54:03 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: patterns overseas
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <3804F186.1ABB1DE@ndh.net>, Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>
writes
>Unfortunately we don`t even get the Simplicity costume patterns in our
>stores although the regular Simplicity patterns are available over here.
>
>But I`m very lucky to have nice people in the States getting them for me
>(thanks a lot,
>Kate !).
>
>Many greetings,
>Diana
I went last week to get a mundane pattern, and the latest Simplicity
book has a _huge_ costume section - I reckon it's all the ones our
friends in the US talk about - the various Italian ren(ish), cotehardies
and sideless surcotes, the Shakespeare in Love one (which is gorgeous)
and the Scottish Lassies, amongst others.  The lady in the shop said
that you can't necessarily actually get the patterns in the UK, or some
have to be specially ordered, but it's much more than they used to even
show us.

Jean
>

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 16:58:37 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 18:12:08 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Needlework resources
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

I promised a friend that I'd remember to post and ask for the addresses of 
any needlework lists, or urls to any good needlework sites for her.

I forgot.  Anyone got a favorite they'd recommend?

angela+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both 
wind and tide."
King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 17:11:53 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 15:28:05 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> I promised a friend that I'd remember to post and ask for the addresses of
> any needlework lists, or urls to any good needlework sites for her.
> Anyone got a favorite they'd recommend?

Several websties that I like.  A couple are merchants.  If you want my entire
bookmark list let me know.  :)

http://www.anu.edu.au/english/jems/sharon/stitchdictionarycontents.html
http://www.pacificnet.net/~pmarmor/bwarch.html
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Wymarc/master1.htm
http://www.staff.uiuc.edu/~jscole/medembro.html
http://www.classicstitches.com/
http://www.staff.uiuc.edu/~jscole/angelic.html
http://library.advanced.org/12834/text/fahions.html
http://www.nordicneedle.com/
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of An Tir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 17:37:35 1999
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From: "m b" <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 15:51:33 PDT
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-Poster: "m b" <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>

TITANIC gets my vote.


>From: Gina Torretta <gtorretta@cid.wustl.edu>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: "'Historic Costuming'" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
>Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 11:07:40 -0500
>
>
>-Poster: Gina Torretta <gtorretta@cid.wustl.edu>
>
>Could I beg the list's indulgence for a brief period and ask of everyone
>their favorite
>"authentic-period" movies where the costumer really did earn their academy
>award
>or nomination?
>	I've been following the career of Gabriella Pescucci, Deborah Scott
>and
>Sandy Powell.
>
>-gina

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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 18:02:56 -0500
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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: art vs. accuracy
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: Gina Torretta <gtorretta@cid.wustl.edu>
>
>I've spent a month or less perusing my limited art books to discover that
>I have *no* art of actual courtesan's couture (in fact I have no idea if a
>Toulouse Lautrec could have existed at this time period eaking out a living
>doing the portraits of the medieval call girl)

Long ago, I made a note of a book called _Lives of the Courtesans:
Portraits of the Renaissance_ by Lynne Lawner, ISBN 0-8478-0738-X.  I have
never actually seen this book, so I can't say anything about it, but it
sounds relevant.

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 18:20:59 1999
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Message-ID: <380782EE.71BB5E9@woodenporch.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 19:39:34 +0000
From: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>

On ebay I have two of Arnold's Patterns of Fashion:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=182335099
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180208257

And an 1892 Harper's Bazar with a fold-out tissue pattern sheet with overlay
patterns for several garments:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181956097

Postage is very reasonable, so check them out. Will be listing more.
Lois

--
Lois Mueller
Wooden Porch Books
books@woodenporch.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 18:45:31 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 23:30:28 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Recent posts or check this out
In-Reply-To: <007901bf1694$e93b1f00$f826163f@pbc.adelphia.net>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

Given all the discussion about that outfit on ebay I have a question.

Does anyone know of the origin of SCA/Ren Fair thing of lacing the side
(underarm) seams as well as the front?  I've never seen any evidence for it
in relation to Elizabethan stuff and was wondering if I'm missing something
obscure and Italian or what?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 18:52:38 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 17:07:39 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Melanie Schuessler wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> 
> >-Poster: Gina Torretta <gtorretta@cid.wustl.edu>
> >
> >I've spent a month or less perusing my limited art books to discover that
> >I have *no* art of actual courtesan's couture (in fact I have no idea if a
> >Toulouse Lautrec could have existed at this time period eaking out a living
> >doing the portraits of the medieval call girl)
> 
> Long ago, I made a note of a book called _Lives of the Courtesans:
> Portraits of the Renaissance_ by Lynne Lawner, ISBN 0-8478-0738-X.  I have
> never actually seen this book, so I can't say anything about it, but it
> sounds relevant.
>
I have it - it's very relevant and an excellent book on courtesan
lifestyles.  However, most of the art presented is "speculative" in that
a lot of it you probably already have in costume books, and the author
is making reasoned assumptions based on history that some of the women
depicted were courtesans.  I guess respectable women didn't normally get
painted in their underwear (shocking, I know ;-0).  Great book - I
recommend it.

Carolyn
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 20:43:10 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: art vs. accuracy
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I was recently intrigued by a comment from a relative who is only
>marginally aware of the historical validity of clothing. He had seen the
>movie Dangerous Beauty and was asking me why the courtesan's
>dresses exposed the legs in a majority of the scenes. Was this a 
>possible fashion of 16thc Venice? Or just artistic license of Pescucci?

The exposed leg thing is actually a take off of some 16th century woodcuts
but, not an accurate in terms of a style worn.  There are a couple of
woodcuts which either show two frames or have a flip-up portion.  In the
left hand picture is a picture of a Venetian woman wearing what appears to
be a more-or-less normal gown (flip-up down).  In the right hand picture or
with the skirt flipped-up you see the woman's legs encased in Venetians
(the knee-breeches type things).  I believe this was possibly artists
showing how scandalous Venetian ladies can be NOT a demonstration of
cut-away skirts and bustles.
 
>I've spent a month or less perusing my limited art books to discover >that
I have *no* art of actual courtesan's couture (in fact I have no >idea if a
Toulouse Lautrec could have existed at this time period eaking >out a
living doing the portraits of the medieval call girl)

Actually, I don't even know if the women depicted were actully cortesans
but, the seem to be the obvious source of the costuming idea.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 21:00:29 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 21:23:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pourpoints & Houppelands
In-Reply-To: <3.0.6.32.19991015144127.007a5100@pop.utulsa.edu>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


I wrote:
> >> Seriously, terminology at the time wasn't standard, so 
> >>anything we say today can only be arbitrary...

Marc wrote:
> >Unfortunately, while this is true enough, I'm not 
> >certain that it isn't overstating the issue far enough 
> >that it makes it somewhat pointless to try and even 
> >asume we know what we are talking about.

Oh, I'm sorry. Out of context my comment is indeed an overstatement. In
context, though, was responding to someone's query about a particular
garment: "Is it a houppelande even though it's cut in such-and-so a way?" 
My point is exactly what you also said -- it all depends on your
definition, and how narrowly or broadly we choose to apply the term.
Within the period, the same word might refer to different things, and
different words might refer to the same thing, and of course terms changed
by locale/language as well as time. So beyond a certain core of cases
in which we *know* the term was used, whether *we* call a particular item
a houppelande is arbitrary, and our use of the term is meaningful only if
all the people in our conversation understand exactly how we're defining
"houppelande."  Which might not be the same way some authors have defined
houppelande, or a different group of costumers talking on another day, or
even our same group of costumers talking a year ago or a year from now.

That doesn't mean none of us know what we're talking about (and Marc's
awe-inspiring discussion of "doublet" shows that some of us know more than
others -- I couldn't have produced that much information). But as was
pointed out some weeks ago, as we talk among ourselves, we have to be very
very careful not to fall into the trap of assuming that the terms we use
will mean the same thing to all others on this list, or in the costume or
scholarly community as a whole. 

For instance, I've noticed that some costumers today use the term
"cotehardie" to mean just about any fitted dress of 14th-15th century
Europe. Twenty years ago I learned the term as meaning only a fitted
overdress of 14th century Western Europe (primarily France, Flanders,
England, Germany). So now when someone says "cotehardie," I make sure to
stop and ask them exactly what they're referring to. (Especially crucial
when someone asks me what I think of the 10-gore "cotehardie"
construction...) 

That doesn't mean no one knows how the term "cotehardie" might have been
used in the period; we have some evidence for its use, at various times
and places. But it does mean our application of the term today is rather
arbitrary -- can we use it for a Bohemian dress that looks identical to a
French one, even though the Bohemians would not have used the same term? 
Can we use it for an underdress as well as an overdress? Can we use it for
a dress of 1440 as well as one of 1380? 

For my purposes, when I talk about a 14th-century fitted dress, I call it
a "14th-century fitted dress," because I figure that's the clearest way I
can express myself. And I have a little boilerplate paragraph that goes
within the first five minutes of every lecture I give: "Costume
terminology was not standard at the time, and it is not standard today..."
and then I state and define the exact terms I'm using in that lecture.

Despite all this, someone not long ago read one of my papers and still
came away confused because she was using a different definition for
"tippet" than I was. It hadn't even occurred to me that there was another
way to use that word in that context. That'll teach me to be even MORE
careful about taking terminology for granted.

--Robin



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 21:13:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 19:24:42 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

StitchWitch wrote:
> 
> I don't know about the level of accuracy for this one, but it rates pretty
> high on the inspiration side: Coppola's(sp?) Dracula. I loved nearly every
> one of the costumes, even the odd ones worn by Lucy. (Though I'm not sure

I liked "Dracula's" costumes in Dracula -- outrageous flights of
fantasy all the way. 

And Sandy Powell's wonderful costumes in Wings of a Dove (is that
the right title?) 

And the woman (I can't remember anything lately) who won the Oscar
for Priscilla Queen of the Desert. Far out.

And most of the programs in the British "Mystery" series
(ok, it's TV, sorry) But in Poirot, for example, they go to
such great pains to be "period". Even the shoes.

And the King and I. Not very "authentic", but very gorgeous.

And Raise High the REd Lantern for Chinese costumes. (don't
think it got an oscar)

Susan F.
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 19:25:54 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Japanese hakama patterns
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Elisee du Lyonnais wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
> 
> I carry the Costume Connection pattern.  The hakama does have several
> large pleats stitched onto two belts, one that ties to the front, with an
> added trapezoidal shape in the back, and one that ties to the back.  It
> makes up beautifully and looks comfortable to wear.  The hakama take over
> 4 yards of 60" wide fabric, 4 7/8 in the larger sizes in 45".
> 
> I would be interested in contact information for Round Earth to add them
> to the stock of the shop.

Round Earth is at:  http://www.round-earth.com/

The focus is on hakama for Aikido and other martial arts.
I haven't used the pattern yet, but the instructions are
very good esp. about how to fit different sizes. It's
meant for people who are really going to wear these things
(and jump around in them) so they really have to work.

I didn't have this one when I was making a pair for my
son. I started with the drawing in the theatrical costume
book I can't remember the name of, got the Folkwear pattern,
got catalogues from other martial arts places, watched
ninja movies (to see how they move), etc. But I also
found a *genuine* silk pair in an antique shop and used
them for a pattern. The bands/belts (himo) and back piece
(koshiita) are not sturdy enough for martial arts and I
had some trouble there, also with the pleats.

The next pair is going to be great!

cheers,

Susan F.
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 22:41:53 -0400
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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Subject: H-COST: side-laced bodices
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>



> - -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>
> Does anyone know of the origin of SCA/Ren Fair thing of lacing the side
> (underarm) seams as well as the front?  I've never seen any evidence for it
> in relation to Elizabethan stuff and was wondering if I'm missing something
> obscure and Italian or what?

The simplest answer is that the additional lacing (and the gaps they
create) allow for greater length of wear for those who tend to go up and
down in weight and dress size.

(Of course, I'm almost wishing that was what I had just made...instead
of the Irish dress I just finished...and forgot to re-fit one last time
over the chemise alone.  Laced all the way shut (instead of the 2 1/2
inch gap I planned) it still isn't snug enough...well, when I'm
standing, and remembering my posture sitting down, anyway....I mean to
give any real support/taming.  Thankfully I don't need much..but I've
still got to figure out how to alter it down a couple of sizes.)

-Elisabeth
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 22:56:53 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/15/1999 1:24:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ginnaphure@email.women.com writes:

<< I'm partial to the costumes in Resurection >>
 That's RESTORATION. [after the period it takes place in] Designed by James 
Acheson [another designer I like to mention I worked for :-)] He also did 
Dangerous Liaisons & The Last Emperor.
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/15/1999 2:06:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stitchwitch@excite.com writes:

<< Coppola's(sp?) Dracula. >>
EWWWWWWWW!
I hate it! A perfect example of beautiful ideas but a failure because nothing 
is remotely right. The date 1898 is flashed on the screen and the bustles are 
1880. The men are all over the place....even in one costume! And the Klimt 
robe! And the Kabuki wedding dress! Yuk!
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: side-laced bodices
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>> - -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>>
>> Does anyone know of the origin of SCA/Ren Fair thing of lacing the side
>> (underarm) seams as well as the front?  I've never seen any evidence for it
>> in relation to Elizabethan stuff and was wondering if I'm missing something
>> obscure and Italian or what?
There are examples of side laced German Renn gowns, though the lacing was
in lieu of, not in addition to front lacing.

Julie Adams


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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 23:20:20 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/15/1999 6:53:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
gwenvyre@hotmail.com writes:

<< TITANIC gets my vote >>
This has some lovely things in it but I have a prob with it.....
After I saw Wings of the Dove , I realized that Rose should've dress more 
like that. I mean she's supposed to be so unconventional and she dresses in 
the most conventional style of the day. She should be part of that crowd that 
wore the latest Poirot and Fortuni....especially after her trip to Europe. I 
did love that pale green gown you see for about 10 seconds.....with the lace 
tiered skirt. That yellow thing she sees Jack's [awful] sketches in with what 
looks like puffer paint on the shoulders was not as successful.

I hope everyone realizes these are just  MNSHO.....and won't get upset if I 
don't like what they do. Titanic & Dracula both have some lovely, exquisitely 
made things in them.
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 23:24:12 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: wench
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Today, "wench" has the connotation of a loose woman, generally a lower-class 
one. But originally it meant any young woman or girl. "Lusty" is another word 
that's had a similar degradation. When Shakespeare called someone a "lusty 
wench," he meant a healthy young woman, nothing pejorative at all. Just to 
clarify things a bit.

Gail

 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 22:20:16 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 21:43:30 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

This is hard.   I don't know off-hand which of my favorite costume movies
won awards or not.  I'm not even sure if they are accurate historically,
but here goes anyway

Shakespeare in Love (I marvel at the story every time I see this movie, how
clever)  I have seen it enough, that I have started looking at the people
in the background and they all seem to be dressed so well.

Artemisia - Fabulous Italian.  And yes, you do get to see the underwear.

Titanic - Completely out of my period.  Don't have a clue how accurate, but
beautiful.

Young Bess - Looks like well researched Tudor to me.  For the women anyway.

Ghandi - Yes, that is what I said.  There is a scene when Ghandi is still
in Africa and they are having a meeting (?) I have never been able to
forget all of those incredible turbans.

The Wind and the Lion - The scene where the Marines land and march on the
Palace (?)  Love that uniform.  Brian Keith as Teddy, it doesn't get much
better than that.

Paint Your Wagon, My Fair Lady, The King and I.  I know, I know, Musicals. 
I can't help myself.

Likely these could all be emotional choices, and I am sure that some people
are scratching their heads over most of them.  Oh well...

Kathlene






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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 22:26:26 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 23:38:44 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Costume: Ebay Sellers (longish)
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 10/15/99 10:45:04 AM Central Daylight Time, 
carrie@greateralchemy.net writes:

<< BTW, has anyone considered leaving neutral feedback comments on the seller 
& 
 item in question? something like " no clothing ensemble is accurate for all 
of a 500 
 year span. "
  >>

This shouldn't be done in their feedback file.  If you wrote her personally 
that is enough.  A person needs to be careful of what they post in a feedback 
file.  It isn't for comments like that.
What was the url for the garment again?
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 22:44:27 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations" - Madness of King George?
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 21:00:10 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello!

It's finally Friday, and I can really read the list instead of browsing . .
. . ahhhhhh.

I'd have to say I have two current favorites:  "Ever After" and "The Lion in
Winter".  However, I have a video I haven't watched yet, and that hasn't
been mentioned:  does anyone have any comments about the costuming in the
movie  "The Madness of King George"?

And, just because I'm sentimental, any old big budget Hollywood musical with
fancy dresses!  No matter what era or how accurate!

Zelda



-----Original Message-----
From: K & J Hopkins <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: October 15, 1999 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"


>
>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>
>This is hard.   I don't know off-hand which of my favorite costume movies
>won awards or not.  I'm not even sure if they are accurate historically,
>but here goes anyway
>
>Shakespeare in Love (I marvel at the story every time I see this movie, how
>clever)  I have seen it enough, that I have started looking at the people
>in the background and they all seem to be dressed so well.
>
>Artemisia - Fabulous Italian.  And yes, you do get to see the underwear.
>
>Titanic - Completely out of my period.  Don't have a clue how accurate, but
>beautiful.
>
>Young Bess - Looks like well researched Tudor to me.  For the women anyway.
>
>Ghandi - Yes, that is what I said.  There is a scene when Ghandi is still
>in Africa and they are having a meeting (?) I have never been able to
>forget all of those incredible turbans.
>
>The Wind and the Lion - The scene where the Marines land and march on the
>Palace (?)  Love that uniform.  Brian Keith as Teddy, it doesn't get much
>better than that.
>
>Paint Your Wagon, My Fair Lady, The King and I.  I know, I know, Musicals.
>I can't help myself.
>
>Likely these could all be emotional choices, and I am sure that some people
>are scratching their heads over most of them.  Oh well...
>
>Kathlene

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 15 22:59:49 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 23:12:17 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pourpoints & Houppelands
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>>
>Oh, I'm sorry. Out of context my comment is indeed an overstatement. In
> context, though, was responding to someone's query about a particular
> garment: "Is it a houppelande even though it's cut in such-and-so a way?"
> My point is exactly what you also said -- it all depends on your
> definition, and how narrowly or broadly we choose to apply the term.

I'm sorry, I hadn't intended to take your comment out of context, but
merely to condense it to what I saw as the kernel of what you were
saying.

> Within the period, the same word might refer to different things, and
> different words might refer to the same thing, and of course terms changed
> by locale/language as well as time. So beyond a certain core of cases
> in which we *know* the term was used, whether *we* call a particular item
> a houppelande is arbitrary, and our use of the term is meaningful only if
> all the people in our conversation understand exactly how we're defining
> "houppelande."

The problem is that "arbitrary", to me, implies that there's no point 
in trying to determine what terms were being used when, since people
are just going to use them hither thither today.  And that's what I
was
looking at.  Personally, I'd like to hammer down what was meant by
such and such a term at a set date (it's a dream, but hey, if you set
goals you can easily meet, you set them too low).

I apologize if that was not your intent.
>That doesn't mean none of us know what we're talking about (and Marc's
>awe-inspiring discussion of "doublet" shows that some of us know more 
>than others -- I couldn't have produced that much information)...

Not to sound self-denegrating, but it's what I do.

> For instance, I've noticed that some costumers today use the term
> "cotehardie" to mean just about any fitted dress of 14th-15th century
> Europe...

I'll be honest, I've heard it (and the other one "houpelande") so many
different ways, I have no idea what's right.  I *am* pretty sure that
calling any of the Herjolfsnes garments "cote-hardies" is wrong, but
still people do it.

>That doesn't mean no one knows how the term "cotehardie" might have 
>been used in the period; we have some evidence for its use, at various 
>times and places. But it does mean our application of the term today is 
>rather arbitrary -- can we use it for a Bohemian dress that looks 
>identical to a French one, even though the Bohemians would not have 
>used the same term?

Can we? Sure? Should we?  Should I call an Elizabethan bumroll a
bustle?  It does the same thing.  In modern anthropology, native
americans traditionally wear essentially two different sorts of 
footwear - moccasins and opankes.  That means that Lakota have their
shoes referred to by an Algonkian term - regardless of what it was
made like, and Apaches a term that is Serbian.  All because it's an
easy shorthand.  That also is why many people seem to think that
European medieval shoes are "moccasins", so moccasins wind up being
used as
"medieval shoes", when they aren't.

I do agree (obviously) it's something that we need to be careful
about, and perhaps we can work to ameliorate the difficulty a bit.

marc
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations" - Madness of King George?
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 22:25:35 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Orlando! How could I have forgotten Orlando!!!

Amadeus, Restoration, Dangerous Liaisons (hated the movie, loved the
costumes) Blade Runner, The Ghost and the Darkness, El Cid (I have always
coveted that one mantle(?) of black and silver that the Cid wears over his
armor.  And if I ever get the chance to wear a coronet, I want the thin one
with all the pearls, classy), Cannery Row, Ragtime, Boogie Nights,
Pleasantville...

OK, I will stop now and get my butt to bed.

Wait, wait!  The Ice Storm.

Kathlene
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From: "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Costume: Ebay Sellers (longish)
Message-Id: <940048254.12047.846@excite.com>
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-Poster: "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com>

It was my understanding that you're only allowed to leave comments if you're
involved in the transaction;  i.e., you've successfully bid on item and
afterwards you can comment on the seller..please correct me if I'm wrong.

   --Maureen

> 
> BTW, has anyone considered leaving neutral feedback comments on the seller
& 
> item in question? something like " no clothing ensemble is accurate for
all of a 500 
> year span. "
> 
> then bidders are warned, if they bother to check feedback
> 
> Carrie





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 00:12:21 1999
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 00:36:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pourpoints & Houppelands
In-Reply-To: <3807FB21.C354DEC9@utulsa.edu>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


<continuing the public conversation with Marc..>

I think we basically agree, though we're coming at the same points from
different directions.

Marc:

> The problem is that "arbitrary", to me, implies that there's no point in
> trying to determine what terms were being used when, since people are
> just going to use them hither thither today.  And that's what I was
> looking at.  Personally, I'd like to hammer down what was meant by such
> and such a term at a set date (it's a dream, but hey, if you set goals
> you can easily meet, you set them too low). 
> 
> I apologize if that was not your intent.

Thanks -- it certainly wasn't my intent to imply that! Maybe I need a
better term than "arbitrary." Maybe "random"? "generic"?

I think part of the confusion is that I was referring not to the accurate
understanding of historic terms as used by the people who invented them.
You and I are in complete agreement about the value (and crying need) for
that kind of scholarship, and I am in great debt to you and others like
you who can get down to the exact references and sort them out -- so that
I can use that knowledge in my own work.

But I was referring to modern peoples' adoption of various medieval terms
to mean something specific and immutable, and (almost always) to apply to
a broader place and time than the term originally meant. This actually
tends to blur the efforts of people who are trying to "hammer down" the
details of exactly what term was used when and by whom, because once a
term has been misapplied to cover too broad an area (like calling the
Greenland gown a "cotehardie") it can be next to impossible to re-train
people to use it another way. (If it's been used that way in a well-read
costume book, it's even harder to reclaim exact use.) 

My own preference is to use the historic term as accurately as possible,
which usually means pretty narrowly. But I have to figure that when I talk
to a roomful of people (either a classroom or a "virtual room" like this
list), there will be a very few people who know and understand the
historic use of particular terms (like Marc), and other people who apply
the same terms more generically -- or who have all read different costume
books and have different definitions of the same term, or different terms
to hang on the same garment. In general, I find it safest to use a modern
descriptive -- ergo, "14th-century fitted underdress" or whatever -- to
avoid confusion. 

The arbitrariness comes in any attempt to choose a single term when many
might do -- and when there is no single historical term that is broad
enough. If I'm talking about a style that crossed language divisions, I
might have a choice of accurate terms (kirtle, tunica, gunna, etc.) -- and
in choosing one to stand for all, and in giving it a fixed definition
(when historically it might have been mutable over time), I would be
making an arbitrary choice.  So I will write/say something like this: "For
the purposes of this paper, we will call this underlayer a `chemise,' even
though the people who actually wore it might have called it by any of the
following names..."  which strikes me as more honest than the many books
that declare "In the middle ages, women wore an underlayer called a
chemise, a basic garment called a kirtle, and an overlayer called a
surcote" -- leading some readers to believe that these terms were standard
and fixed.

> Should I call an Elizabethan bumroll a bustle?  It does the same thing. 

And we do something similar when we call an Elizabethan upper-body shaper
a "corset." I think it's probably too late to rescue *that* term from
generic use.

> I do agree (obviously) it's something that we need to be careful
> about, and perhaps we can work to ameliorate the difficulty a bit.

And we definitely agree there.

--Robin



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 00:49:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 23:01:02 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Costume: Ebay Sellers (longish)
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:30 PM 10/15/1999, "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com> wrote: It was
my understanding that you're only allowed to leave comments if you're
involved in the transaction;  i.e., you've successfully bid on item and
afterwards you can comment on the seller..please correct me if I'm wrong.
           I don't know if that's true, but imnsho [and I'm not expecting
anyone else to agree], it would be unethical for me to post comments on
something I was not going to bid on, unless the seller and I had a negative
history together and I stated that this was only my experience, and that
that experience had caused me to decide not to transact business with that
seller again.  For me to do this, I would have to be very upset with the
seller--for example--I had paid for an item, but never rec'd it.  To write
the seller directly with my thoughts/concerns regarding the description of
the item would be fine.   Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 00:53:03 1999
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From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Needlework resources
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:

> I promised a friend that I'd remember to post and ask for the addresses of
> any needlework lists, or urls to any good needlework sites for her.
>
> I forgot.  Anyone got a favorite they'd recommend?
>

OK, I'd say that's an opening for a plug.  *G*

You can subscribe to the historical needlework list by sending the message
'subscribe h-needlework' to majordomo@ansteorra.org.

Please note, this list is hosted on an SCA machine but is open to anyone and
covers all time periods.

--Charlene

--
If you give a man a fish, he will eat for a day.  If you give a man a stick of
TNT, there will be little unidentifiable fish parts all over the village. --
Jack Handy


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 01:13:53 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Japanese hakama patterns
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 02:19:42 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Could you share your formula for hakama with us so we could
sew our own for our families??
Would be grateful!
Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Janice Dallas
> Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 10:57 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Japanese hakama patterns
>
>
> -Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
>
> I used the Folkwear Pattern for a Production of "The Mikado".
>  It isn't
> really a "pattern", but a set of instructions on how to draft it for
> various sizes.  My husband reduced it to a formula so we
> could just put
> the body measurements into the computer and it came up with
> the correct
> distances between points for each person.  Since they varied
> from waist
> 24" to 63" and there were about 20 pants to make, this was helpful.
> Instructions were simple enough for my "mixed bag" of
> volunteer sewers.
> --
> Janice Dallas
> JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
> "Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 01:16:38 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 23:31:55 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

The Rogue wrote:

> I'd have to say I have two current favorites:  "Ever After" and "The Lion in
> Winter".  However, I have a video I haven't watched yet, and that hasn't
> been mentioned:  does anyone have any comments about the costuming in the
> movie  "The Madness of King George"?

I would kill for the red, white and blue outfit Queen Charlotte is
wearing near the end of the movie.  Costumes in general in this movie
looked pretty good to me.

Carolyn
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Julie Adams wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
> 
> >> - -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> >>
> >> Does anyone know of the origin of SCA/Ren Fair thing of lacing the side
> >> (underarm) seams as well as the front?  I've never seen any evidence for it
> >> in relation to Elizabethan stuff and was wondering if I'm missing something
> >> obscure and Italian or what?
> There are examples of side laced German Renn gowns, though the lacing was
> in lieu of, not in addition to front lacing.

Ditto on the Italians.  

Carolyn
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 09:47:07 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations" - Madness of King George?
References: <012d01bf178a$f2d60060$03000004@van1282> <38081BDB.795B6E10@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Carolyn Richardson wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
> 
> The Rogue wrote:
> 
> > I'd have to say I have two current favorites:  "Ever After" and "The Lion in
> > Winter".  However, I have a video I haven't watched yet, and that hasn't
> > been mentioned:  does anyone have any comments about the costuming in the
> > movie  "The Madness of King George"?
> 
> I would kill for the red, white and blue outfit Queen Charlotte is
> wearing near the end of the movie.  Costumes in general in this movie
> looked pretty good to me.

I quite agree. This is my dressing up period and I keep trying to think
of an excuse to make it. It's a good example of women wearing military
fashion in this period.

My favourites Dangerous Liasons the best costumed opening sequence,
Elizabeth, gone with the wind, when you stop and think there really are
just too many to list. 
Just one thing while we're on this subject, we've just got the new
adventures of robin Hood on terrestrial tv over here, can anyone let me
have a manuscript or painting reference for babe marions little red
leather number. A perfect example of a designers costume fantasy. I love
it!!

Dawn 
> 
> Carolyn

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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 07:40:46 -0500
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"Dangerous Beauty", though accuracy checking is far beyond my skill.

Carrie 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 09:13:20 1999
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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: H-cost: Ebay seller
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


Re:  leaving neutral feedback


I agree, the *best* course of action would be to engage 
the seller in an email conversation.  

the Ebay feedback system currently allows any registered 
user to leave feedback on any other registered user, referencing 
a specific auction or independently of any specific auction. You 
do not have to be engaged in an auction with the person 
presently or in the past. The ratings system only counts (1) for 
feedback left by a unique user (you could leave  hundreds of 
positive feedback items for your friend, you would only influence 
their rating once).  The system also requires you to wait (I'm not 
certain how long)  before leaving additional feedback for the same 
user.  A feedback item left with a neutral flag does not impact 
the user's overall rating.  

As in posting auctions & sending email to a mailing list or other public 
forum, one should check one's attitude, double check one's wording, 
and be willing to claim every word before leaving a feedback message 
of positive, negative or neutral value.

Carrie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 09:14:07 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: side-laced bodices
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 08:35:54 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

> > >> Does anyone know of the origin of SCA/Ren Fair thing of lacing the
side
> > >> (underarm) seams as well as the front?  

Not only the 'side' of the garment, directly under the arms, but the 'side
back' also, if I am not mistaken.  So the back of the bodice would be in
three or four pieces.  But, now that I am looking at Orazio Gentileschi's,
The Lute Player,  I see that there does not appear to be a side seam at
all!

Kathlene

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 11:08:36 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 16:18:27 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
Message-ID: <380fa4a8.290156989@smtp-server.austin.rr.com>
References: <940009185.16407.133@excite.com>
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

On Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:39:45 PDT, the following was written in this
electric book by "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>:

>I don't know about the level of accuracy for this one, but it rates pretty
>high on the inspiration side: Coppola's(sp?) Dracula. I loved nearly every
>one of the costumes, even the odd ones worn by Lucy. (Though I'm not sure
>I'd go for the lace thing around my neck that she was buried in. Is that
>remotely period for anywhen?)

That whole outfit was inspired by a Klimt painting, and he's period
(to the 1890's), but extremely stylized. His work was a big stylistic
influence on the whole film, even the posters and ads. 

Hpoe this answered your question!

margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 12:12:43 1999
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 10:25:43 -0700
From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
Organization: Lavolta Press
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



>
>
> the Ebay feedback system currently allows any registered
> user to leave feedback on any other registered user, referencing
> a specific auction or independently of any specific auction. You
> do not have to be engaged in an auction with the person
> presently or in the past. The ratings system only counts (1) for
> feedback left by a unique user (you could leave  hundreds of
> positive feedback items for your friend, you would only influence
> their rating once).  The system also requires you to wait (I'm not
> certain how long)  before leaving additional feedback for the same
> user.  A feedback item left with a neutral flag does not impact
> the user's overall rating.
>
> As in posting auctions & sending email to a mailing list or other public
> forum, one should check one's attitude, double check one's wording,
> and be willing to claim every word before leaving a feedback message
> of positive, negative or neutral value.

I've bought on ebay for a long time. And I've read a lot of feedback on
other people's transactions.  Yes, a greal deal of merchandise on ebay is
misdated or otherwise misdescribed. When sellers range from amateurs
conducting on-line yard sales, through professional dealers dumping
merchandise that didn't sell elsewhere, to professionals who consistently
sell accurately described, quality merchandise, that's what you'd expect.
Furthermore, sellers and buyers can be honest, prompt, and pleasant to deal
with; or sometimes the reverse.

However, as I understand ebay's policies, feedback is meant to reflect your
_own_ experiences _doing business with_ with that seller, buyer, or bidder
_at ebay's auctions_.  I don't think I've ever seen feedback left on an item
description by someone who did not bid or sell at that auction.  Certainly,
ebay tries to prevent "feedback bombing," which is what they call feedback
left by either enemies or friends of the ebay member to damage or inflate
that member's business reputation.  I have seen feedback bombing expressly
forbidden in ebay policies, they reserve the right to edit the feedback file
in such cases, and I have seen such edited files.  I think the members of an
unrelated mailing list getting together to leave feedback for an ebay seller
they have never (as far as I know) done business with, would be classified
as feedback bombing.

Frankly, what _are_ people's motives here?  I really don't believe, whether
the feedback is presented politely/privately or not,  that "education" is
one of them.

Fran


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
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http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 12:18:40 1999
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 13:32:38 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations" - Madness of King George?
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

In a message dated 10/16/99 5:34:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dawn.wood1@virgin.net writes:

<< My favourites Dangerous Liasons the best costumed opening sequence,
 Elizabeth, gone with the wind, when you stop and think there really are
 just too many to list.  >>

I just have to be picky...my friends will never watch GWTW with me again. The 
costumes in this movie have some, slight, sence of being 
correct...well...they wore hoops, at least...but mostly they are SO off, as 
is the hair. Now, some of Melly's dresses are much closer, but at least 
towards the end too young for her.

Not to say I don't like the movie. Vivianne Leight and Olivia DeHavellend (or 
however you spell that) are simply fabulous.

My favorite movies...Ever After, Pleasentville, Emma, Elizabeth, Shakespeare 
in Love, Austin Powers (seriously!), Casablanca...probably more I can't think 
of.

I also saw Midsummer's Night Dream at the Stradsford Frestival in Canada last 
weekend. Fabulous production, and the fairies were beautiful. I wanted to 
take Puck home with me.

-Alison Stacy
AliaClaire@aol.com
acstacy@cc.owu.edu
Delaware, Ohio
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 13:01:45 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: H-Costume: Ebay Sellers (longish)
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

>From the feedback forum:  The Feedback Rating system is easy. You receive: 
           +1 point for each positive comment 
           0 points for each neutral comment 
           -1 point for each negative comment (Negative comments can only be 
left by the winning high bidder and seller in an auction. Also, if a comment 
is not about an eBay transaction, it is not counted) 
You can leave multiple comments in someone's Feedback Profile, but they'll 
only count once (+1). This makes the system fair. No one person can "tip the 
scales" in either feedback direction, positive or negative. 

 Q.Can any bidder leave feedback about a specific auction or just the
    winning bidder?
 A. Only the seller and successful bidder (one for a regular auction, several 
for a Dutch Auction) can leave transaction-related feedback about a specific 
buy or sell transaction. 

You are responsible for your own words. 
Your comments will be attributed with your name and  the date. eBay cannot 
take
responsibility for the commentsyou post here, and you should be careful about 
makingcomments that could be libelous or slanderous. To be safe, make only 
factual,emotionless comments.  Contact your attorney if you have any doubts. 
Once left,Feedback cannot be retracted or edited by you or by eBay.  Please 
try to resolve any disputes with the other party before publicly declaring a 
complaint. 

Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 14:03:08 1999
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 12:12:43 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

Thanks, after I typed it and sent it I thought, Oh damn, that's restoration wasn't it...? sorry about that
---
Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure


"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 




On Fri, 15 Oct 1999 22:56:53   AlbertCat wrote:
>
>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 10/15/1999 1:24:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>ginnaphure@email.women.com writes:
>
><< I'm partial to the costumes in Resurection >>
> That's RESTORATION. [after the period it takes place in] Designed by James 
>Acheson [another designer I like to mention I worked for :-)] He also did 
>Dangerous Liaisons & The Last Emperor.
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 14:10:44 1999
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To: Costume list <h-costume@indra.com>
From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: H-COST: Period Patterns
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

I have followed the discussions on this list concerning the Simplicity
Patterns with interest. You've noted the modern cuting styles and over
simplified construction and modern shortcuts. May I turn the direction of
your critism to Period Patterns?

I am particularly intersted in the late style tunics (1200's) in Pattern
#16. I am really a novice at period cutting styles. I've looked at the web
sites and books that show line drawins of archeological finds, I've even
tried using these cutting styles in clothes for my daughter's barbies.
Though the clothes look really good on the dolls, I'm a little intimidated
about trying to cut into a peice of fabric that has cost more than I had a
right to spend. (We are at the struggling, but have to make clothes and
armor stage.)

The other day when I was looking at a suggested web site I saw this pattern
by Period Patterns and wondered what you all think of them. They are too
expensive for me to just buy one and see. Is it a good step from the
Simplicity type pattern toward blindly cutting into a peice of $10 a yard
fabric and knowing it's going to look good and that I won't be giving it
away a year later because I hate the way it fits and the fact that it's
really not that period?

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 15:11:52 1999
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 20:35:06 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

AliaClaire@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 10/16/99 5:34:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dawn.wood1@virgin.net writes:
> 
> << My favourites Dangerous Liasons the best costumed opening sequence,
>  Elizabeth, gone with the wind, when you stop and think there really are
>  just too many to list.  >>
> 
> I just have to be picky...my friends will never watch GWTW with me again. The
> costumes in this movie have some, slight, sence of being
> correct...well...they wore hoops, at least...but mostly they are SO off, as
> is the hair. 
They are as accurate as most films and are for the most part gorgeous

I've just remembered Amadeus. and if we're talking inspiration the film
that inspired me to become a costume proffessional was wait for
it............
John Wayne's Genghis Kahn. I figured if they could get away with it so
could I and decided that was what I wanted to do with my life. So young
so impressionable

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 15:55:01 1999
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

We have a high-persona event coming up.  It's geographically and
temporally far from my usual persona.  For this event I'll be a late
15th C Italian (Venice) fruitseller (preferably female).  Any pointers
to appropriate clothing?

Thanks,
--Charlene

--
If you give a man a fish, he will eat for a day.  If you give a man a
stick of TNT, there will be little unidentifiable fish parts all over
the village. -- Jack Handy


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 16:00:39 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Period Patterns
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Francesca,
I can't help you on the particular patterns you are interested in--my 
interest is another time period and I make my own patterns.  But, always try 
patterns out in cheap fabric first.  If muslin is too expensive for you, go 
to a thrift store and get some second-hand sheets to cut up.
Ann Wass
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>The other day when I was looking at a suggested web site I saw this pattern
>by Period Patterns and wondered what you all think of them. They are too
>expensive for me to just buy one and see. Is it a good step from the
>Simplicity type pattern toward blindly cutting into a peice of $10 a yard
>fabric and knowing it's going to look good and that I won't be giving it
>away a year later because I hate the way it fits and the fact that it's
>really not that period?
>

I've never actually made up a Period Pattern, but I've heard they tend to
have a lot of problems with fit, and that the directions can be confusing.  

However, if you're worried about it not fitting well and wasting your
expensive fabric, why not do what the professionals do, and make a muslin
first?  Just make the pattern up in an inexpensive fabric, like the $.99
muslin from JoAnne's .  You can leave out facings, hems, etc, to test for fit. 

If you like the fit, make it up in your good fabric.  You can also finish
the muslin one and use it for an undertunic, sleep shirt, or hot
weather/messy job garb.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 16:29:56 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: movie inspirations
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



There are so many! I loved the costumes in "The Scarlet Letter," although the 
movie stunk. "Dangerous Liaisons" was good but "Valmont" (same book, same 
movie release time, no fanfare) was better. Also a better movie, IMHO 
(although both had different endings from the book). "Age of Innocence." The 
old "Three Musketeers" movies were probably my original impetus for historic 
costuming, and I still love them. I could go on and on. I love "Thoroughly 
Modern Millie" for movie musical costumes. "Singing in the Rain" has nice 
costumes too, especially the movie Baroque costumes. And I love lots of the 
old Hollywood King Arthur ones, which often have the right look if the wrong 
fabrics and construction. Like "Robin Hood" and "The Court Jester." They look 
more like the real thing than most of the new Hollywood medieval stuff, which 
usually just looks stupid. IMHO, of course. Don't get me started on the Kevin 
Costner "Robin Hood," or the Disney "Three Musketeers," which are so bad that 
the bad costumes look good. Olivia de Havelland looks great in a wimple, even 
if the wimple isn't right! When I was young, that's what I wanted to look 
like. Heck, that's STILL what I want to look like!

Gail
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 20:57:09 1999
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From: "Kels" <smadsen@primenet.com>
To: "Historical Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 17:18:02 -0700
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-Poster: "Kels" <smadsen@primenet.com>

Hi all--

One of my favorites is Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead, by the same
writer/director as Shakespeare in Love, for those of you who don't know.  I
read the play when I was a teenager, and it was made even better in the
movie.  Stoppard had a chance to use about twenty more years of writing
experience to re-do it as a movie.  I love that movie, and I want to make
R&G's costumes, the Player King's and Hamlet's.  In Orlando I want to do
that black doublet and outfit s/he's in for the Elizabethan section.  Black
Adder ll's black leather outfit as well.

Kels

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 20:57:35 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: movie inspirations - I don't remember the name of it!
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 16:31:40 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

OH, I just remembered one that I saw a while back - it was from the 50's,
I'd guess, about Henry VIII's sister Mary (Margaret?).  It was on twice, and
each time I only caught the last half hour, so I can't say much about it
other than the sister wound up marrying the dashing young man, who had an
actually not bad rapier fight sequence late in the show.  It had the word
"Rose" (?) in the title, something like The (blank) and the Rose?

Anyhow, I loved the costumes in it, so much so that I paid attention to
nothing else!!  How accurate they were, I don't know, but they looked fairly
close (but I'm no expert).

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Gaelscot@aol.com <Gaelscot@aol.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Date: October 16, 1999 2:45 PM
Subject: H-COST: Re: movie inspirations


>
>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>
>
>There are so many! I loved the costumes in "The Scarlet Letter," although the
>movie stunk. "Dangerous Liaisons" was good but "Valmont" (same book, same
>movie release time, no fanfare) was better. Also a better movie, IMHO
>(although both had different endings from the book). "Age of Innocence." The
>old "Three Musketeers" movies were probably my original impetus for historic
>costuming, and I still love them. I could go on and on. I love "Thoroughly
>Modern Millie" for movie musical costumes. "Singing in the Rain" has nice
>costumes too, especially the movie Baroque costumes. And I love lots of the
>old Hollywood King Arthur ones, which often have the right look if the wrong
>fabrics and construction. Like "Robin Hood" and "The Court Jester." They look
>more like the real thing than most of the new Hollywood medieval stuff, which
>usually just looks stupid. IMHO, of course. Don't get me started on the Kevin
>Costner "Robin Hood," or the Disney "Three Musketeers," which are so bad that
>the bad costumes look good. Olivia de Havelland looks great in a wimple, even
>if the wimple isn't right! When I was young, that's what I wanted to look
>like. Heck, that's STILL what I want to look like!
>
>Gail

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 20:57:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 18:18:44 -0700
From: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: side-laced bodices
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>

The lacing on the side back are directly attributable to a period garment
belonging to Eleanora of Toledo in which she was buried. This bodice is
featured as one of the examples in Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion
c.1560-1620" pgs 40-41, plates 286, 288-291. A more detailed description is
with the penciled sketch on pages 102-104. Very good to help you see exactly
how it all fits. I have several bodices made from this pattern and they work
beautifully. Hope this helps.

Maleah
maleah@swbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: K & J Hopkins <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 1999 7:35 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: side-laced bodices


>
> -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>
> > > >> Does anyone know of the origin of SCA/Ren Fair thing of lacing the
> side
> > > >> (underarm) seams as well as the front?
>
> Not only the 'side' of the garment, directly under the arms, but the 'side
> back' also, if I am not mistaken.  So the back of the bodice would be in
> three or four pieces.  But, now that I am looking at Orazio Gentileschi's,
> The Lute Player,  I see that there does not appear to be a side seam at
> all!
>
> Kathlene
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 20:57:45 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: side-laced bodices
In-Reply-To: <199910161427.IAA06231@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Sat, 16 Oct 1999, K & J Hopkins wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> 
> > > >> Does anyone know of the origin of SCA/Ren Fair thing of lacing the
> side
> > > >> (underarm) seams as well as the front?  
> 
> Not only the 'side' of the garment, directly under the arms, but the 'side
> back' also, if I am not mistaken.  So the back of the bodice would be in
> three or four pieces.  But, now that I am looking at Orazio Gentileschi's,
> The Lute Player,  I see that there does not appear to be a side seam at
> all!
> 
Eleanor of Toledo's burial gown was laced down the side backs, but again
only down there, not also down the front/back/sides.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 20:57:51 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Period Patterns #16 is the one that Mistress Nerak makes her tunics for
the men of House Ladyhall out of... so far as I know, it isn't hard to
work with so long as you follow her rules... 1) never, ever, ever cut
the pattern pieces... make new ones out of butcher paper (or newsprint
or cut open brown bags etc) 2) look at the pictures and don't read the
instructions (this particular pattern is fairly easy to put together)
and 3) make a muslin pattern first.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 21:06:40 1999
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 21:22:31 -0700
From: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: movie inspirations - I don't remember the name of it!
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>

I believe you are referring to the movie "The Sword and the Rose" a Disney
production starring Glynis Johns (the same one who is in Court Jester with
Danny Kaye) as Mary Tudor, and Richard Todd as Charles Brandon. She is Henry
VIII's sister who secretly marries Charles Brandon after her husband the
King of France dies. I can't find the release date on my copy of the video
but I believe it was about the same time frame as the "Court Jester." The
men's costumes are gorgeous and for the most part at least close to accurate
but the women's garb leaves something to be desired. Still entertaining none
the less..... You should be able to purchase a copy almost anywhere. At
least I've seen it in our local Wal-Mart lately.
     FYI Margaret Henry's other sister married the Scottish King and is Mary
Queen of Scots paternal grandmother hence her claim to the English throne.
And we all know what happened from there.

Maleah
maleah@swbell.net


----- Original Message -----
From: The Rogue <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 1999 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: movie inspirations - I don't remember the name of
it!


>
> -Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
> OH, I just remembered one that I saw a while back - it was from the 50's,
> I'd guess, about Henry VIII's sister Mary (Margaret?).  It was on twice,
and
> each time I only caught the last half hour, so I can't say much about it
> other than the sister wound up marrying the dashing young man, who had an
> actually not bad rapier fight sequence late in the show.  It had the word
> "Rose" (?) in the title, something like The (blank) and the Rose?
>
> Anyhow, I loved the costumes in it, so much so that I paid attention to
> nothing else!!  How accurate they were, I don't know, but they looked
fairly
> close (but I'm no expert).
>
> Zelda
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gaelscot@aol.com <Gaelscot@aol.com>
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
> Date: October 16, 1999 2:45 PM
> Subject: H-COST: Re: movie inspirations
>
>
> >-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
> >
> >There are so many! I loved the costumes in "The Scarlet Letter," although the
> >movie stunk. "Dangerous Liaisons" was good but "Valmont" (same book, same
> >movie release time, no fanfare) was better. Also a better movie, IMHO
> >(although both had different endings from the book). "Age of Innocence." The
> >old "Three Musketeers" movies were probably my original impetus for historic
> >costuming, and I still love them. I could go on and on. I love "Thoroughly
> >Modern Millie" for movie musical costumes. "Singing in the Rain" has nice
> >costumes too, especially the movie Baroque costumes. And I love lots of the
> >old Hollywood King Arthur ones, which often have the right look if the wrong
> >fabrics and construction. Like "Robin Hood" and "The Court Jester." They look
> >more like the real thing than most of the new Hollywood medieval stuff, which
> >usually just looks stupid. IMHO, of course. Don't get me started on the Kevin
> >Costner "Robin Hood," or the Disney "Three Musketeers," which are so bad that
> >the bad costumes look good. Olivia de Havelland looks great in a wimple, even
> >if the wimple isn't right! When I was young, that's what I wanted to look
> >like. Heck, that's STILL what I want to look like!
> >
> >Gail
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 16 21:18:30 1999
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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Period Patterns
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Period Patterns #16 is the one that Mistress Nerak makes her tunics for
>the men of House Ladyhall out of... so far as I know, it isn't hard to
>work with so long as you follow her rules... 1) never, ever, ever cut
>the pattern pieces... make new ones out of butcher paper (or newsprint
>or cut open brown bags etc) 2) look at the pictures and don't read the
>instructions (this particular pattern is fairly easy to put together)
>and 3) make a muslin pattern first.
>
>Kat

I always make a newsprint copy of my patterns because I hate messing up.
Are the instructions that bad? Once, in the first few months I was in the
SCA my sister, who joined about the same time in a different city was given
access to a pattern that was so hard. It was for a cotehardie and surcote.
The pattern said it was sized up to 20 or something but when I cut out the
fabric and stitched it up I knew it was at least several sizes smaller than
what it said. My sister never knew who made the pattern. Could this be the
same company? I have very bad memories and a half finished dress I can't do
anything with.

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 17 00:02:11 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: movie inspirations - I don't remember the name of it!
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 00:39:11 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

The name of the Danny Kaye film is The Court Jester.  The costumes were
designed by Edith Head.  It was made in 1956.  Check the Internet Movie
Database, http://us.imdb.com/  for more information on this or any film.
The Court Jester was on either TCM or AMC last month.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

> I believe you are referring to the movie "The Sword and the Rose" a Disney
> production starring Glynis Johns (the same one who is in Court Jester with
> Danny Kaye) as Mary Tudor, and Richard Todd as Charles Brandon. She is
Henry
> VIII's sister who secretly marries Charles Brandon after her husband the
> King of France dies.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 17 10:32:59 1999
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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 11:46:00 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations" - Madness of King George?
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/16/1999 4:26:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dawn.wood1@virgin.net writes:

<< I've just remembered Amadeus. >>

Amadeus is the film I love to hate! [I know, I know....everyone's a critic!] 
I found the costumes completely awful but for the ones taken directly from 
portraits. I can't explain it.....they look like a high school project to me. 
Those awful wigs! Not just Woofie's.... everyone's! The same designer did Valm
ont....which I also found amateurish.
Remember.....this is just MNSHO!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 17 10:39:29 1999
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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 11:53:52 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: movie inspirations
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/16/1999 5:45:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<<  "Dangerous Liaisons" was good but "Valmont" (same book, same 
 movie release time, no fanfare) was better. >>

See...different strokes...
But as Skeptics often say "Extraordinary claims need extraordinary proof"
You'll have to explain why you think this! James Acheson's designs are 
exquisite! All I can remember about Valmont is some coat he wears that looks 
like blue willow china....and is a fabric they would never have used for a 
coat.....and that awful short pannier thing Cecile wears. What outfits did 
you feel captured upper crust France better than in Dangerous Liaisons?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 17 10:46:50 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: movie inspirations
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/16/1999 5:45:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<<  I love "Thoroughly 
 Modern Millie" for movie musical costumes. >>

I must say here [since I sorta put you on the spot in my last post....and 
because all I've talked about is what I don't like] that this film is the 
earliest one I remember the costumes inspiring me. I use to draw them in 
class instead of listening to the teacher....especially the black & white 
thing she wears when she decides to become "Chic & mysterious". What great 
clothes!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 17 10:53:45 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

 All I can remember about Valmont is some coat he wears that looks 
>like blue willow china....and is a fabric they would never have used for a 
>coat.....and that awful short pannier thing Cecile wears.

and that the women are either wearing no corset, or really badly cut and
fitted ones.  Even my sister who doesn't sew caught this.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 17 15:46:09 1999
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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 15:57:28 -0400
From: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>
Organization: The Curiosity Shop
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-Poster: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>

I'm rather behind in my digests and may have missed a few posts so
please forgive my delay and any repeated bits of info.

Regarding poufs being used for sitting when wearing a hoop skirt, I
can't speak of other time periods, but I've never seen nor heard of any
special seating used during the crinoline era of the 1850's and 1860's.
All a woman needed in that era was a chair with no arms.

Someone posted a place that offered hoops for $65 and asked if anyone
else had them for less. If historic accuracy and proper shape and skirt
support, at least for the 1850's to about 1865, is at all important, I
find it hard to imagine anyone could make a cage for that price. If
accuracy is not a factor, ACW merchants offer a variety of covered hoops
with 4 to 6 plastic covered metal hoops for as low as $35-$40. They
would be fine for theatrical productions and other shorter term use
where 'suspension of disbelief' is a major element. They are much better
than those sold in bridal shops that's for sure.

If on the other hand your purpose is to create as an impression as
accurate as you can make it, a reproduction cage is the best choice.
They have a more accurate shape and they move in a more period
appropriate way.

If you are interested in the latter, a good source for cage crinolines
is Heritage Reproductions at:
http://members.tripod.com/~heritage_repro/

If  I may be so bold, I now offer cage crinoline on-line as well at:
http://www.rust.net/~gwjchris/GCATALOG

At the risk of sounding like I'm bragging, I must say our quality
matches that of Heritage, but at a somewhat more modest price. We also
offer a wider range of cage diameters for different purposes.

I hope I haven't broken any list rules regarding "advertising"...

Glenna Jo Christen
gwjchris@rust.net
Visit our web site, "The Curiosity Shop"
http://www.rust.net/~gwjchris/




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 17 16:19:10 1999
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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 17:33:01 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: valmont
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Actually, I cannot defend that choice at all. I saw both films before I knew 
much about that period, clothing-wise, and haven't seen them since. I just 
remember that I liked "Valmont" better. I do think it was a better film (What 
was supposed to be remotely attractive about what's-his-name, who played 
Valmont, in DL? How could anyone take him seriously as an irresistable Don 
Juan?), but the costumes in "Dangerous Liaisons" were probably better. Maybe 
I remember the costumes in "Valmont" as being better than they were because I 
liked the film. I thought it did a good job of showing aristocratic life -- 
tons of servants, lots of picnics and dancing and romping about. That thing 
they put Cecile in, though, was just plain stupid -- the whole scene was 
stupid. 

Cecile in "DL" looked dumb too. Was it Uma Thurman? She was shaped all wrong 
for the clothes, she looked like a twig. Sort of like Elle McPherson in "Jane 
Eyre." She may be our idea of a perfect beauty, but she looked like a colt in 
that hoop skirt and off-the-shoulder ballgown, meant for a small, dainty 
figure. It's interesting to see how clothes of the time fit the ideal look of 
the time -- not necessarily our ideal look.

Gail

PS: The book is still better than either movie, or the play. And ALL FOUR 
have different endings!

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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 18:18:22 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: valmont
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/17/1999 5:34:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<< Was it Uma Thurman? She was shaped all wrong  >>

This is an intersting observation. The best use of this kind of thing is in Je
fferson in Paris. Gweneth Paltro is perfect as the tall, gawky Virginia girl 
with buck teeth among petit, dreamy French beauties. She stood out 
wonderfully from the rest of the girls in their red wool school uniforms.
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: valmont
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> it was a better film (What 
> was supposed to be remotely attractive about
> what's-his-name, who played 
> Valmont, in DL? How could anyone take him seriously
> as an irresistable Don 
> Juan?), but the costumes in "Dangerous Liaisons"

Honestly, I think John Malkovich is one of the sexiest
men of our time... AND he (in my opinion) is a great
actor... Dangerous Liasons, Con-Air and Man in the
Iron Mask all were better movies for his being
there...

Just my 2 cents.

Sarah


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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/17/1999 5:34:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<< Maybe 
 I remember the costumes in "Valmont" as being better than they were because 
I 
 liked the film. >>

Ahhhh...that sounds reasonable. I still think DL is a better film. Everyone 
was too young in Valmont and not EVIL...with a capital "E". I do agree that 
John Malcovich was not the most obvious choice where you think you might need 
a 38-ish gorgeous man....but he does well. I have a hard time believing 
Michelle Pfifer hadn't been hit on before.

But now we've really gotten OT!
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 00:09:20 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Terminology (was: Pourpoints & Houppelands)
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Earlier this weekend, Robin Netherton and I were discussing the
seemingly unstructured nature of modern usage of historical terms, and
it appeared that her use of the term "arbitrary" hit a negative cord
with me.  We appear to agree on the essentials, that because of the
difficulties of the modern usage, it's important that we try to get to
examine and share the meanings, while focusing on the realities of
modern usage (if I have misunderstood this, I hope that she will
correct me).

As an example of a term where the modern definition has been badly
confused by obscure interpretation, we can look at the word "Cyclas". 
If we look at the interpretations available on the Internet, it would
be understandable if we assumed that the definition were of a sideless
surcote, of the sort also apparently called "gates of hell" (or having
"gates of hell" sleeves), or that it meant a crusader-style surcote -
with perhaps the former developing from the latter.  There is also an
interpretation of the garment that appears to blend a surcote with a
cope.  For the record, the following web-sites were used to make this
description (I cite these not for any criticism of their usage, but
because they are what I found after an extensive search, and it's
important that I DO cite them):

http://renstore.com/cyclas.shtml
http://www.varmouries.com/vcloth.html
http://www.cf.ac.uk/uwcc/archi/howshall/arthurm/costume/making.html
http://www.cf.ac.uk/uwcc/archi/howshall/arthurm/costume/costume.html
http://www.village.org/sca/costuming_0696.html
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/rialto/clothing-L-msg.html
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/fenians/womensleine.htm
http://virtualelpaso.com/neverwinter/dress/dress.htm

There is also a website that describes a cyclas as a woman's mantle
with some sort of border around it.
http://www.uky.edu/ArtsSciences/Classics/jlsgloss.html

This suggests two totally differing interpretations of the term.

If we look at the basic dictionaries, we can see where some of this
confusion might arise:

"[Latin cyclas, Greek kuklas a women's garment with a border all
around it.]  A tightly-fitting upper garment or tunic worn by women
from ancient times; also sometimes by men, esp. the tunic or surcoat
made shorter in front than behind, won by knights over their armour in
the 14th century.
1860 FAIRHOLT Costume 97 The lady wears a long gown, over which is a
cyclas, or tightly fitting upper body garment...
  [i.e. a catachrestic or erroneous use] Identified or confused with
CICLATOUN q.v.; see also Du Cange s.v. Cyclas.
1834 PLANCHÉ British Costumes 95  "a rich stuff manufactured in the
Cyclades, and therefore called cyclas or ciclatoun, gave its name to a
garment like a dalmatic or supertunic worn by both sexes.
1876 ROCK Text. Fabr, iv. 27. 
[n.b.  Ciclatoun [Obsolete] Various forms in English from 13th century
to 16th: ciclatun(e, ciclatoun, siclatoun, sikelatoun, syclatoun,
sicladoun, siklatoun, ciclatoune, syclatowne, syclatown, shecklaton,
checklaton [Old French ciclaton, -un, chiclaton, ciglaton, siglaton,
segleton, senglaton, singlaton; Spanish ciclaton; Provençal sosclato
(Diez); Middle High German ciclât, ziglât, siglât, siklatîn]. The
source of names found in most European languages in the Middle Ages,
appears to have been Arabic (originally Persian) siqlatun, also
siqilat, siqalat, etc.  The original Persian term, sakarlat, is the
same word from which we derive Scarlet.  The primary meaning was
"scarlet cloth", later "fine painted or figured cloth", "cloth of
gold".
Diez took ciclaton as a derivative of the Latin Cyclas-adem, a Greek
kuklas,'a state robe of women with a border running around it.  Dozy,
Suppl. Arab. Lex. appears to derive the Arabic from cyclas.  Du Cange
also identified cyclas and ciclatum, and it is possible that the two
words were, from their similarity, confused in Europe in the Middle
Ages.  A precious material much esteemed in the Middle Ages.  In the
first quotation (1225) it refers perhaps to 'scarlet cloth'; in others
it is cloth of gold or other rich material.  Perhaps, sometimes, a
robe or mantle of this stuff (cf. Godefroy).   The word is obsolete by
1400, although variations still appear in English for another
century.]" [OED2]

"1Cyclas -adis feminine. (kuklas) a female robe of state, having a
border of purple or gold embroidery: Propertius, Juvenal.
2Cyclas feminine (namely Island) generally used in the plural
Cyclades, -um, a group of islands in the Aegean Sea." [Cassell's
Latin] 

"Cyclas1 ~adis (~ados) A female's light outer garment having a
decorated border.
Cyclas2 ~adis (~ados) One of the Cyclades, the islands in the Aegean
surrounding Delos (usually plural)." [OLD] 

"Kuklas - encircling, as in the Cyclades, and also a woman's garment
with a circling decoration." [Liddell & Scott's Greek-English Lexicon] 

It would appear that none of these have anything to do with the Middle
Ages, and certainly not a "sideless surcote" of any sort.

Looking at a wide selection of costuming material yields the following
definitions:

"Cyclas. masc. fem. Silken short tunic, or cloak, crom Cyclades, Greek
Islands.  Worn over armour from 13th century." [Davies, 1994]
"Cyclas  A short capelike cloak or tunic worn by men and women from
ancient Greek and Roman times to thirteenth century England; made of a
rich silk cloth called cyclas because it was made in the Cyclades. 
Greeks, Romans, Franks, and Goths wore the garment.  At the coronation
of the English Henry III in the 13th century, the guest "citizens of
London wore the cyclas over vestements of silk."  In the same period,
knights wore the cyclas over their armor as a surcoat." [n.b. the
illustration shown is of a short, loose garment edged at the collar
and cuffs in fur]   [Wilcox, 1969] 
[Not referred to in Boucher, 1966] 
Under "Spain", two women and a man are depicted and described as
wearing a "cyclas".  One woman and a man are in pellots (edged in a
border), tunics and copes (edged in a border).  These are described as
"cyclas and loba".   In the next picture, a woman is described as
having a cyclas, two women are depicted - one argueably wearing a
sideless surcote with attached sleeves the same material as the
surcoat, the other in a fitted bodice. [Racinet, 1988] 
"Cyclas, or sleeveless tunic" shown as a military garment and there is
a vague distinction between it and the sideless gown. [Hill &
Bucknell, 1967]
"Men's dress. Tunics; cyclas or cyclaton: sleeves tapering to wrist;
use of parti-color; dagged edges; fur linings." [two illustrations
showing sleeveless tabard over armor] [Davenport, 1948.]
"Cyclas (ciclatoun, syglaton, gardcorp, surcote).  Matthew of Paris
relates that at the wedding of Henry III, in 1236, many... dressed in
garments for which he uses the word "cycladibus," worked with gold,
over vestments of silk.  This garment was usually made of very rich
material (especially when it came into fashion) manufactured in the
Cyclades, and the name Cyclas is attributed to this source."
[illustrations show sideless surcotes]. "an over-robe without sleeves
-- the cyclas-- shaped like that of the men..." [Norris, 1927]

Clearly, somewhere between the definition used in 1860, "a tightly
fitting upper body garment..." and 1927 the meaning has changed
completely, possibly from Matthew of Paris's misunderstanding of the
term (as suggested by the OED definition), or perhaps Matthew of Paris
was misunderstood.  I don't have a copy of Matthew of Paris at home,
so I haven't started checking that link yet.  I do find it suggestive
that the term is not used in Bouchet, Kohler, or my Middle English
Dictionary.

Of course, the easy thing to do at this point would be to say "well,
it's Norris, and this is another case where he's screwed things up
again" and that might well be.  But until I can verify his initial
source, I'd rather not.  There may still be other factors at play
here.

In any case, I'm fairly certain the term has nothing to do with the
Cyclades, but rather from the encircling nature of the decoration, and
that the older connecting it to the fabric (as ascribed to Matthew of
Paris) is erroneous.  However, since that is not how it is being used
today, we can set that aside.

Marc
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From: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: art vs. accuracy
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-Poster: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>



--- Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com> wrote:
. He had seen the
> >movie Dangerous Beauty and was asking me why the
> courtesan's
> >dresses exposed the legs in a majority of the
> scenes. ?
> 
> The exposed leg thing is actually a take off of some
> 16th century woodcuts

This is from Vecellio's Renaissance Costume book, and
indeed, it is a flip up to show the excessive height
of the Courtesan's chopines and their underwear. More
often than not the flip up part is reproduced without
the regular view and presented as "haute courtesan."

Jonna

=====

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:23:28 +0100
From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #706
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I checked the O.E.D. and its definitions of the word "wench" boil down to 3 basic meanings:-
1. A girl or young woman (In "The Mill on the Floss", Maggie Tulliver's father refers to her as "the little wench")
2. A lower class or rustic young woman
3. A woman of easy virtue, a mistress

>>>
- -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


My understanding of the word wench is that originally it meant lower class
young woman and only later came to mean 'available' lower class young
woman.  So many of our young female participants call themselves wench
without meaning anything their mothers wouldn't approve of.  Wench a word
our customers know, so they delight in calling all our female ale stand
servers by that name.  I even get called wench, at age 50, when they aren't
calling me milady, the only other word they know for woman.

>>

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:03:33 EDT
Subject: H-COST: bodice lacing
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

I've been lurking for a while now and since the topic of lacing has come up, 
thought I'd ask my curiosity question:

It's my understanding that a corset was worn over the chemise and under the 
bodice of Elizabethan costumes of all but peasant level. Is this accurate? 
I've seen many posts about gap between the laces--both front and back--and am 
wondering how one keeps the corset from showing between the laces.

All my bodices lace tightly closed over my corset. Are there alternatives?

I'm also interested in making a front lace bodice with a detachable stomacher 
so that a) I can lace into myself, b)it will give me several options for 
combinations (peasant, merchant class, etc).  Any thoughts and/or tips would 
be appreciated.

Thanks!
Dani G
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 09:33:09 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:45:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ioana Timariu <ioana@yucc.yorku.ca>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: COS Real Folkloric costumes from Turkey etc (fwd)
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-Poster: Ioana Timariu <ioana@yucc.yorku.ca>


Hello! Thought some of you might appreciate this: 

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 15:15:17 -0700
From: "Faint, Kylie" <KFaint@sempra.com>
Reply-To: med-dance@europe.std.com
To: med-dance@world.std.com
Subject: COS Real Folkloric costumes from Turkey etc

X-33208-Poster:  "Faint, Kylie" <KFaint@sempra.com>

Hi list,

An "International Gallery" in my neighbourhood is closing down, and they
have some *awesome* folkloric outfits for sale, which were part of a
travelling exhibition they did in the US & Canada - these are museum quality
costumes!

I've been wracking my brain trying to think who might appreciate these, to
little avail, so I'm just throwing the info out there, in case anyone's
interested.

The costume I looked at (they are all bagged up) was 13 pieces, for a
particular village in Turkey.  It had everything from underwear (very cute
bloomer type undies!), tunic, apron, vest, jacket, shawls, headpiece &
jewelry, even a set of kashiklar (dancing spoons)!  The owner phoned me up
today, and said that he might be able to swing me a special deal, since he
knows I'm genuinely interested in the stuff.  I am, but I'm wondering what I
would do with a collection of authentic folk costumes :)  I don't know where
all the costumes are from, as I only looked at one.  The shop has garments
from Syria, Morroco, Egypt, Afghanistan etc also.

I guess thats all, just had to pass this info on to someone!!

Kylie
KFaint@Sempra.com

--
X-To-Get-Help-File: re list & assoc. info (graphics, lyrics, digests, etc),
email dancers-archive@world.std.com w/ SUBJECT: 'help med-dance'. Body ignored.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 09:35:02 1999
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To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: rare glove article
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-Poster: ches@io.com

If anyone is interested in rare articles about gloves from Elizabeth's I
time this Threads issue has one!

I already own this copy and love the photos in it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=183258162

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 09:57:46 1999
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From: melanies@skylightopera.com
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
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-Poster: melanies@skylightopera.com


Regarding the exegesis of the term "cyclas," I am wondering if 
there are any references to this word in texts from the period(s) in 
which these garments (whatever shape they took) were worn.  How 
did we, or Planche, for that matter, come to use this word?  Surely 
there must be a source, though it's certainly possible that the 
source is in error.

A-hunting we will go...
Melanie Schuessler



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 10:05:45 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 09:47 AM 10/18/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>If anyone is interested in rare articles about gloves from Elizabeth's I
>time this Threads issue has one!

I don't recall that this article is about gloves from Elizabeth's time, but
rather, it's about how to pattern and make gloves.  One of the illustrations
shows a drop dead gorgeous pair of white leather gloves with lavender insets
and crystal and freshwater pearl beads, in an Elizabethanish style, but the
article is not specifically about historical gloves.  



Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 12:30:42 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: indian traveller 1515
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 19:03:11 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BF199B.6C11E2C0
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Hi all,

A question from me: what would a well-to-do Indian (and I mean the Asian =
sub-continent) traveller to 1515 Europe wear? It's just before Moghul =
rule and I suppose he would have been Hindu. Would he, f.i., aquire =
western type clothes on the long and slow way west and combine these =
with some of his native dress, or would he be conservative, or, on the =
other hand, completely do away with his things and go Habsburg/late =
burgundian/landsknecht (he is not a military person, though).

Are there any websites you people know, where I can go to find out?

Thanks in advance,

Henk

tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands

------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BF199B.6C11E2C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>A question from me: what would a =
well-to-do Indian=20
(and I mean the Asian sub-continent) traveller to 1515 Europe wear? It's =
just=20
before Moghul rule and I suppose he would have been Hindu. Would he, =
f.i.,=20
aquire western type clothes on the long and slow way west and combine =
these with=20
some of his native dress, or would he be conservative, or, on the other =
hand,=20
completely do away with his things and go Habsburg/late =
burgundian/landsknecht=20
(he is not a military person, though).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Are there any websites you people know, =
where I can=20
go to find out?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks in advance,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Henk</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>tScapreel</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Medieval Advisors</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dordrecht, =
Netherlands</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_003B_01BF199B.6C11E2C0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 12:30:43 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 11:23:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Terminology (was: Pourpoints & Houppelands)
In-Reply-To: <380AAB80.DCAA5900@utulsa.edu>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Mon, 18 Oct 1999, Marc Carlson wrote:

> Earlier this weekend, Robin Netherton and I were discussing the
> seemingly unstructured nature of modern usage of historical terms, and
> it appeared that her use of the term "arbitrary" hit a negative cord
> with me.  We appear to agree on the essentials, that because of the
> difficulties of the modern usage, it's important that we try to get to
> examine and share the meanings, while focusing on the realities of
> modern usage (if I have misunderstood this, I hope that she will
> correct me).

I think that's about right!

> As an example of a term where the modern definition has been badly
> confused by obscure interpretation, we can look at the word "Cyclas". 

OH, yes. Thanks for the in-depth sourcehunt, Marc!

I think of "cyclas" every time the terminology issue comes up.  The first
time I ever took notice of the term "cyclas" was when I came across it in
"Fashion in History," by Marybelle Bigelow (second edition c. 1979; I
don't know when the first edition came out). This happened to be the
textbook in my college history-of-fashion class, about 1980. It was the
only class I ever took from my university's home ec school, which is large
and has a good reputation. Alas, it became obvious from almost the first
day of class that (1) the textbook, and apparently the class, were geared
to aspiring modern fashion designers, and (2) neither the author of the
book nor my own professor knew much about the Middle Ages/Renaissance, but
they were obligated to cover those periods in a survey course. The
professor taught from the book, and the book's section on medieval is an
abomination. I cannot begin to list the misrepresentations and
misappropriations in the four medieval/renaissance chapters (one of which
is titled "Dark Ages and Before"). Of course the errors are randomly mixed
in with some solid information, very few "facts" are cited to specific
sources, and virtually all the sources listed are modern. 

Bigelow defines cyclas as a "floor-length surcoat that featured deep
armholes (female), 12th-14th centuries" and shows a picture of one of the
statues of a French queen at the Palais de Justice -- the classic sideless
surcote with fur front and edging and buttons down the middle. Bigelow
also interprets the statue's crown as a "coronet of fresh leaves" (huh?) 
and describes the sleeved body garment (showing from beneath the sideless
surcote) as a "sorquenie," a "snug, buttocks-length garment with very
tight sleeves." On the next page is a drawing (most of the book is
drawings, with some photos of real art) of this hip-length sorquenie worn
OVER a "floor-length chainse" (chemise). I can't even begin to figure out
what source was misinterpreted to produce that image. 

If you have a strong stomach, check the book out. Note the definition of
"a grandes assiettes" as a noun meaning the "full-skirted peplum" hanging
from the waist of the pourpoint and (later) the 16th-century doublet. 
Check out the illustration of a steeple hennin with a big fluffy bow,
complete with ribbon, tied onto the tip. You'll find out that a
supercotehardie is a shorter version of the cotehardie. You'll see James
Laver's (modern) slam at the farthingale recast as being a comment from
"wits of the era."

I'm can only hope the book is better in its later chapters -- I'm not an
expert in those eras, and I knew even less when I took this course 20
years ago, so I can't judge the quality of the rest of the book. I suspect
that the author was probably a specialist in 18th or 19th-century dress,
or maybe 20th-century fashion illustration, and that she was put in the
awkward position of writing a textbook that covered everything from
Mesopotamia to modern. She most likely cobbled together the chapters that
were outside her area from a few secondary sources and little real
personal knowledge. And I'm sure this was a well-meaning effort --
probably the best she could do given the sources she had access to, in the
time available to her. 

This is too common an occurrence. I have a whole shelf of books like this. 
I collect them, because I frequently get inquiries from people whose ONLY
exposure to historic dress research has been some textbook like this, in a
class like the one I took. I'm keenly aware that many of my
readers/listeners come to my material with this kind of background, and I
have to anticipate it -- and I have to understand what they're saying when
they ask me questions based on what they learned (in all good faith) from
these sources. 

Which brings me back to terminology. This book, like some others on my
"notorious sources" shelf, presents hundreds of terms (with a nice
glossary at the end). Words I've never heard of are boldfaced and set
forth without comment as THE name for various garments. People who read
these books, and don't already have some background in costume history,
have no reason to suspect these definitions, and no reason to consider
that these particular terms weren't even standard at the time, much less
now. So the whole terminology issue that concerns us so deeply is
invisible to most people outside the circles of in-depth costume research.
To an extent, that's a problem with the specialized language in many
fields, from economics to theology.

Maddening? Yes. Can we do anything about it? Within the field, yes -- Marc
demonstrates that. But in dealing with people who aren't doing costume
research themselves -- like the art historians and literature scholars I
often speak to -- there's less we can do. I'm probably the only member of
my costume history class to have noticed any problem with the medieval
terminology in that book, which means the other students (and the ones who
took the class in later years) are still probably relying on the
half-remembered information they picked up from that one exposure. And
library shelves are full of books like Bigelow, which (because they set
everything out so clearly and precisely) are wonderfully attractive to the
person looking for basic information on medieval clothing.

Which is one reason I try now to use generic modern terms when I'm making
modern observations, and reserve the specific historic terms for when I'm
citing specific historic sources. I try to name multiple terms when I know
them, and at the start of every paper, I define the basic terms I'm going
to use. If I can raise a little awareness that these matters are NOT all
neat and tidy, then perhaps I've helped. 

And -- back to the post that started this whole thread. The woman who
originally posted asked whether a garment was a houppelande or a
haincelin. Haincelin? I hadn't heard that one -- but Biglow has it here,
as "[French]: short houppelande (male), Renaissance" and "an outer wrap
worn by young Renaissance dandies" with a variety of sleeves. The picture
she reproduces is Italian. OK, the term is out there somewhere. I have no
idea where she got it, and I wouldn't trust her definition as far as I can
throw the book.

--Robin


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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>From: AlbertCat@aol.com
>Check out the 2 part Little Doritt....with Derek Jacobe & Alec >Guiness. 
>All the clothes were actually made by hand. It took 2 years.

Tell me more!  Tell me more!  Where, when, and the story!  Please, please 
(whimper, whimper!)

Karie/Allessandre

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 13:45:57 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Courtesans
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-Poster: Pandoorah@aol.com

In a message dated 10/15/99 5:08:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
benrumson@worldnet.att.net writes:

> However, most of the art presented is "speculative" in that
> a lot of it you probably already have in costume books, and the author
> is making reasoned assumptions based on history that some of the women
> depicted were courtesans.  I guess respectable women didn't normally get
>  painted in their underwear (shocking, I know ;-0).

I promise, there is a point to this...  My roommate and I are currently 
looking for documentation of Courtesan's clothing, so this discussion has 
been very interesting.  It has been a two year long search (so far) and once 
and while we will find something...  We have been collecting documentation 
(written, speculative, visual) from every source imaginable and storing it in 
a binder...  But the other day my roommate called me at work, and in a very 
excited voice, told me she had found the perfect painting of a Courtesan...  
She promised to get to get it copied and bring it home.  When she got home 
she showed me her precious copy.  Now before I go any further I want to make 
sure and point out that my roommate is a very smart woman.  And she does 
great research...  Having followed the notes and descriptions about what 
courtesans wore, she assumed the painting, which did not have a label, must 
be a courtesan...  It was however Eleanor of Toledo.  My roommate was very 
embarrassed when I was able to identify to portrait.

Shannon
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X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express for Macintosh - 4.0c (197) 
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 11:17:34 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: indian traveller 1515
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3023090254_38999_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

I have forwarded your request to Irene Joshi the South Asian Librarian at
the University of Washington Library.  Clothing is one of her specialties. 
In case you want to contact her directly her email is
joshi@u.washington.edu

~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: indian traveller 1515
Date: Mon, Oct 18, 1999, 10:03 AM


Hi all,
 
A question from me: what would a well-to-do Indian (and I mean the Asian
sub-continent) traveller to 1515 Europe wear? It's just before Moghul rule
and I suppose he would have been Hindu. Would he, f.i., aquire western type
clothes on the long and slow way west and combine these with some of his
native dress, or would he be conservative, or, on the other hand, completely
do away with his things and go Habsburg/late burgundian/landsknecht (he is
not a military person, though).
 
Are there any websites you people know, where I can go to find out?
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Henk
 
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht, Netherlands


--MS_Mac_OE_3023090254_38999_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: H-COST: indian traveller 1515</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>I have forwarded your request to Irene Joshi the South A=
sian Librarian at the University of Washington Library.  Clothing is one of =
her specialties.  In case you want to contact her directly her email is<BR>
joshi@u.washington.edu<BR>
<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
http://www.rlshep.com<BR>
<BR>
----------<BR>
From: &quot;Henk 't Jong - tScapreel&quot; &lt;scapreel@tip.nl&gt;<BR>
To: &quot;H-Costume&quot; &lt;h-costume@indra.com&gt;<BR>
Subject: H-COST: indian traveller 1515<BR>
Date: Mon, Oct 18, 1999, 10:03 AM<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Hi all,</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
 <BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">A question from me: what would a well-to-do Indi=
an (and I mean the Asian sub-continent) traveller to 1515 Europe wear? It's =
just before Moghul rule and I suppose he would have been Hindu. Would he, f.=
i., aquire western type clothes on the long and slow way west and combine th=
ese with some of his native dress, or would he be conservative, or, on the o=
ther hand, completely do away with his things and go Habsburg/late burgundia=
n/landsknecht (he is not a military person, though).</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><T=
T><BR>
 <BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Are there any websites you people know, where I =
can go to find out?</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
 <BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Thanks in advance,</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
 <BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Henk</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
 <BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">tScapreel</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Medieval Advisors</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Dordrecht, Netherlands</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>=
<BR>
<BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3023090254_38999_MIME_Part--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 13:35:23 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 14:45:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie "inspirations"
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/1999 1:48:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
allessandre@hotmail.com writes:

<< >Check out the 2 part Little Doritt....with Derek Jacobe & Alec >Guiness. 
 >All the clothes were actually made by hand. It took 2 years.
 
 Tell me more!  Tell me more!  Where, when, and the story!  Please, please 
 (whimper, whimper!)
  >>

Calm....calm....

All I know is that the clothes were indeed hand made. We rented some for the 
miniseries Queen and they were entirely hand sewn....down to the whipped 
overcasting of raw seam allowances. If the hooks & eyes had been brass, I 
would've thought they were very well preserved originals.

I believe they were exhibited at the V&A after production. The film[s] looks 
perfect. Every walk of life is represented.

James Acheson only asks that leads & featured extras have all stitching & 
sewing that shows be done by hand....usually just above the hip. This is 
because a buttonhole on the big screen may end up 3 feet long. Sandy Powell 
was not quite as picky. We could do machine buttonholes but had to do a quick 
overwhipped so the stitching didn't look so perfect, machinelike & even. She 
had me take some ruffles off some chemise sleeves worn by a tavern 
wench/victim in "Interview" because the edges were machine scalloped. It 
looked too neat. But I've seen some real, early 19th century lappets & 
engagentes with hand scalloping that looked so perfect it was machinelike.
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From: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: Pourpoints & Houppelandes (Haincelin)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 11:46:50 -0700
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-Poster: "Cynthia Barnes" <Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com>


Cin>> There's an illumination on the inside front cover of "Parades et
Parures", (Boccacio, "De Cleres at Nobles Femmes", circa 1402, BNF Paris).
Wish I could find it online, but the BNF is not responding right now. Here's
a verbal description:
Cin>>The Seducer: Knee-length houppeland, body portion black, assiettes
bright pink, turning into bag sleeves? w/ yellow-green dagging; lined w/
brown fur; red-orange pointy toed boots.
Cin>> Demoiselle studying: Yellow (deep gold) houppeland, w/ safety orange
lining visible inside dagged sleeve, matching orange belt, fitted sleeves of
a deep purple cotte visible.
Cin>> Is his pink & black garment truly a houppeland even in this different
cut?
>> Is it a haincelin?

Robin>What's a haincelin? :-) I don't remember hearing that term before.

Let me "read" you the text that I'm having trouble with:

Excerpted from _Parades et Parures_, Dr. Odile Blanc, ISBN, 2.07.073725.X
translated by Cynthia Barnes, 1999

_Parades & Finery_, p36, Ch. 1 "Surfaces" - discussing mens' wear, e.g. the
garment of the seducer described above

"The long garment (houppelande), very expansive at the turn of the 15th c.,
is the subject of the same passion as the jack [jaque] over which it was
often worn.   Additionally, it was adopted by women as much as by men, and
was particularly directed toward [indique pour] those persons for whom the
dignity of their social position or simply their age forbade the wearing of
short or closely fitted garments. Here then, is testimony to the to the
diversity of available clothing. More rare, this garment was worn without a
belt, but some other element was added to break the uniformity: hood [] with
a long, tied horn [chaperon a cornette], or a heavily worked sleeve.
Finally, the length mattered less than it previously had; and while these
garments did get quite long, there were some short houppelands
(haincelins)".

Translator's notes:
1. Round parens, ( ), denote words that were in parens in the original text.
2. Words in square parens, [], denote words, regretfully w/o proper French
accents, from Dr. Blanc's original text; they follow the English
translation.
3. There is no glossary in the back of this book.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 14:53:06 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Courtesans
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/1999 1:48:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Pandoorah@aol.com writes:

<<  It was however Eleanor of Toledo.  >>

Well...who knows what she did week ends!

Anyway, that painting [you no doubt already know] of courtesans in a garden 
has them dress beautifully, like any other wealthy lady. Why should they have 
a "special" look? Were one to design, say, Bianca from Much Ado, one would 
maybe show more skin and some bright colors & flash to attract attention. 
But, come to think of it, these is not unusual aspects of court dress.
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Courtesans
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-Poster: ches@io.com

When we did Dangerous Liasons at Zach Scott each actor was charged
with the task of researching their character and report to the director
what they found. We did an exercize based on what we found.

The courtesan found most of her stuff from the original book of letters
that the play was based on. Specifically from Valmont's letters. She found
other sources through writing letters (in french) to the publisher of the
play we were using. Or rather fromt he sources that publisher sent her.

All I can tell you is that she played her character as much to the letter
of what she found. One of the interesteing things she found was that cross
dressing for females was exclusive to the courtesans. Sorry I could not be
much more help than that.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: Pandoorah@aol.com

Just because nobody has said any of these...

The Buccaneers (the BBC production)
North and South (the mini-series...  Yes, I know, TV)
Old, Period Hollywood Movies - Diane, The Seahawks and Zorro
Death on the Nile
Gaslight
Lady Jane
Anne of a Thousand Days

I know some have more problems then others...  But they are great to sit and 
watch while trying to be inspired for a new costume.

Shannon
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 14:20:13 1999
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

I did read an article recently on Courtesans in Renaissance Florence (15th
century), specifically their encounters with the legal system.  The
article contained a list of "violations" for which the courtesans were
arrested. Top of the list was "snatching men's hats off their heads", and
right below that was "dressing like a man."

If anyone's interested, I can give them the bibliographic info for it.
Fascinating article.

Drea



 On Mon, 18 Oct 1999 ches@io.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: ches@io.com
> 
> When we did Dangerous Liasons at Zach Scott each actor was charged
> with the task of researching their character and report to the director
> what they found. We did an exercize based on what we found.
> 
> The courtesan found most of her stuff from the original book of letters
> that the play was based on. Specifically from Valmont's letters. She found
> other sources through writing letters (in french) to the publisher of the
> play we were using. Or rather fromt he sources that publisher sent her.
> 
> All I can tell you is that she played her character as much to the letter
> of what she found. One of the interesteing things she found was that cross
> dressing for females was exclusive to the courtesans. Sorry I could not be
> much more help than that.
> 
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> ches@io.com
> 

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 14:20:15 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 14:34:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: Pourpoints & Houppelandes (Haincelin)
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


I normally snip for space, but I'll quote Cynthia's description of an
illumination and her translation of a costume analysis below. 

And I'll ask -- um, what was the question again?

If the question is, was a short full gown on a c. 1400 man a houppelande
or a haincelin, I'd probably use houppelande because I'm an English
speaker, and because this is the term more generally used today by
English-speaking costume researchers as an umbrella term for a full gown
of this period.

The common definition of houppelande, at least as I hear/see the term
used, usually assumes a full overgown cut in single pieces from shoulder
to hem, probably with a circular or near-circular general form to the
entire garment (there are certainly many ways to achieve this, and the
details of cut obviously varied over time and place), often belted at the
waist but sometimes hanging loose, and having full sleeves, either open or
bag-style. I'd personally resist using the term "houppelande" for a
gown with fitted body or sleeves, or for anything with a waistline seam,
because I see fullness and shoulder-to-hem cut as key elements of the
definition. Someone else might have a different definition. (I haven't
seen the picture, so I'm assuming it meets this definition.) 

If the question is, what would a person of that time call it, I would
think that would depend on where and when he was. I gather "haincelin" is
a French term? As I mentioned earlier, I hadn't heard the term till this
week, and now I found it in another book this morning (see my Terminology
post).  That book is unreliable, but the definition of "short houppelande"
matches the one you quote, which could simply mean both authors are
quoting the same source, or one is quoting the other. I don't know of any
historic sources for the word, but I don't read much medieval French. I
have no idea if the word was common in the period or if some later
researcher popularized it.

When in doubt, I always use the word "gown." For men or women. It's the
most generic term I've seen either now or in the period.

--Robin


> Cin>> There's an illumination on the inside front cover of "Parades et
> Parures", (Boccacio, "De Cleres at Nobles Femmes", circa 1402, BNF Paris).
> Wish I could find it online, but the BNF is not responding right now. Here's
> a verbal description:
> Cin>>The Seducer: Knee-length houppeland, body portion black, assiettes
> bright pink, turning into bag sleeves? w/ yellow-green dagging; lined w/
> brown fur; red-orange pointy toed boots.
> Cin>> Demoiselle studying: Yellow (deep gold) houppeland, w/ safety orange
> lining visible inside dagged sleeve, matching orange belt, fitted sleeves of
> a deep purple cotte visible.
> Cin>> Is his pink & black garment truly a houppeland even in this different
> cut?
> >> Is it a haincelin?

> Excerpted from _Parades et Parures_, Dr. Odile Blanc, ISBN, 2.07.073725.X
> translated by Cynthia Barnes, 1999
> 
> _Parades & Finery_, p36, Ch. 1 "Surfaces" - discussing mens' wear, e.g. the
> garment of the seducer described above
> 
> "The long garment (houppelande), very expansive at the turn of the 15th c.,
> is the subject of the same passion as the jack [jaque] over which it was
> often worn.   Additionally, it was adopted by women as much as by men, and
> was particularly directed toward [indique pour] those persons for whom the
> dignity of their social position or simply their age forbade the wearing of
> short or closely fitted garments. Here then, is testimony to the to the
> diversity of available clothing. More rare, this garment was worn without a
> belt, but some other element was added to break the uniformity: hood [] with
> a long, tied horn [chaperon a cornette], or a heavily worked sleeve.
> Finally, the length mattered less than it previously had; and while these
> garments did get quite long, there were some short houppelands
> (haincelins)".
> 
> Translator's notes:
> 1. Round parens, ( ), denote words that were in parens in the original text.
> 2. Words in square parens, [], denote words, regretfully w/o proper French
> accents, from Dr. Blanc's original text; they follow the English
> translation.
> 3. There is no glossary in the back of this book.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 14:33:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 15:45:36 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/1999 3:23:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Pandoorah@aol.com writes:

<< North and South (the mini-series...  Yes, I know, TV) >>

YIKES! [here I go again!]

Now stop looking at Patrick Swazey and look at the clothes! There seems to be 
a rule: 
Older married women: buttoned up to the neck
Younger married women: some décolletage
Unmarried women: Plunging décolletage
This in any situation at any time of day.
There's a scene where they pick cotton in hoops and low necklines I believe.

For even funnier costumes check out the minisearies they did by the same guy 
that's Revolutionary War....with Don Johnson. I forget the name. Hysterical! 
[don't miss the Victorian furniture in the background while you're at it]

The clothes in Queen are pretty good.....even if I did work on it myself :-)

<<Death on the Nile
Gaslight
Lady Jane
Anne of a Thousand Days>>

All yummy!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 14:41:17 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 15:54:37 -0400
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Asia Poppers <apoppers@BBNPLANET.COM>
Subject: H-COST: Wide Soutache
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-Poster: Asia Poppers <apoppers@BBNPLANET.COM>

Hi All, 

At my favorite little discount fabric store, I found some soutache braid
much wider than the Wright's stuff that's sold in the little packages.
It's about 3/16" wide, and looks like it's made by winding the glossy fiber
(rayon, probably) over two *pairs* of cords, with the cords of each pair
laid side-by-side, to make a wider but fairly flat soutache.

My favorite little discount fabric store has prices that can't be beat,
because the folks who run it buy remnants and bolt ends and odd lots.
Therefore they have this stuff only in a very few colors, and once it's
gone, I'll probably never see it again.

That's the problem.  I want it in other colors.  Lots of it, where I know I
can get it again reliably.  Has anyone on the list ever seen this stuff?
Is it just jumbo soutache or does it go by some other name?  And does
anyone know where to get it on a range of colors, or even just black?

Thanks in advance for any info, 

Asia
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 15:06:43 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 15:26:41 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<melanies@skylightopera.com>
>Regarding the exegesis of the term "cyclas," I am wondering if 
>there are any references to this word in texts from the period(s) in 
>which these garments (whatever shape they took) were worn.  How 
>did we, or Planche, for that matter, come to use this word?  Surely 
>there must be a source, though it's certainly possible that the 
>source is in error.

Here we are.  Matthew of Paris, in describing the wedding and coronation
of Eleanor to Henry III in 1236 "...sericis vestimentis ornati, cicladibus
auro textus circumdati, ..."  Well, hmm.  After checking with my Latin
resources, this looks like *either* "silken ornate garments, encircled (in
the manner of a cyclas) with golden made stuff" *or* "silken ornate garments,
encircled (in the manner of the Cyclades). with golden made stuff".  I'm
thinking the former.

That means that unless better information turns up, it *could* be that 
Norris screwed it up.

Marc
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Courtesans
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/99 7:18:09 PM !!!First Boot!!!, aleed@dnaco.net 
writes:

<< If anyone's interested, I can give them the bibliographic info for it.
 Fascinating article.
 
 Drea
  >>


Drea,

     I would love to get the biblio on it
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 15:49:40 1999
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 15:02:24 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: side-laced bodices
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

> > There are examples of side laced German Renn gowns, though the lacing was
> > in lieu of, not in addition to front lacing.
> 
> Ditto on the Italians.  

Actually, I've found a painting using both front and side lacing. It's 
Cosimo Tura's "Spring" from c. 1460.

You can find it at the Web Gallery Search:
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.html

Just search for Tura.

This is the same gown that Hunniset uses in her book. It clearly 
shows both side and front laces.


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 16:32:57 1999
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

That was "Restoration". I was impressed by the costuming. To think that Sam 
Neill could actually wear petticoat breeches & a waist-length wig and NOT 
look silly....

I think my favorite is "Dangerous Liaisons" wiht "Wings of the Dove" second.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 16:42:16 1999
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I think Sandy Powell tends to go for the fantastical, or at least 
exaggerated, over the accurate (Don't get me started on "Rob Roy"...-- the 
English costumes were fine, but the Scottish costumes -- ouch!). Certainly 
her costumes for "Orlando" were exaggerated, as were those for "Interview". 
"Wings of the Dove" was gorgeous, however. I'm never sure what she's trying 
to accomplish in her costuming.

Kathleen Norvell
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Zefferelli's Romeo and Juliet.


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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I have a postcard of an early 16th century painting (Italian, I think, but I 
can check) that shows a lady from the back view. Her bodice is laced at the 
side. 

I will check the reference at home.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 16:56:35 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/1999 5:56:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Appin1@aol.com writes:

<< 
 I think Sandy Powell tends to go for the fantastical, or at least 
 exaggerated, over the accurate (Don't get me started on "Rob Roy"...-- the 
 English costumes were fine, but the Scottish costumes -- ouch!). Certainly 
 her costumes for "Orlando" were exaggerated, as were those for "Interview". 
 "Wings of the Dove" was gorgeous, however. I'm never sure what she's trying 
 to accomplish in her costuming.
  >>

Y'know she also did Michael Collins. Exaggerated?

In Vampire it's clear that living, breathing people are usually depicted in 
natural linens, rusts, yellows, oranges....warm colors. Vampires are 
generally in purples, strange greens, deep blues and sparkle or glitter 
unnaturally. Claudia wears a pink dress with clunky padded appliqué at the 
hem.....an artificial costume of deception in the "wrong" color.... for when 
she deceives & kills Lestat. 

And Wings of the Dove is not as exaggerated as you might think. Her choices 
are for the then very popular avant garde very wealthy of the day. Besides, 
when else are you gonna get to put someone in Pioret hostess pajamas?

Orlando is very styalized....but of course it is....look at what it's about.

Seems clear to me.

Have you seen Velvet Gold Mine? [Not a good film, alas] What did you think?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 18:26:56 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costume Designers
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

What about

"Jefferson In Paris" (awful flick, but I loved the costumes when I was 
watching it)  No idea if they were more than superfically period.

To reiterate my faves from those previously offfered up 
Restoration
Romeo & Juliet (Zefferelli)
Elizabeth (transformation at the end was captivating)
& Shakespeare in Love (I know they're not perfect, but oh that overcloak worn 
by Lord Wessex(?) before he attacks young Will in the theater! delicious!)

Most abominable

Anything seen in Bonanza (what kind of corsets WERE those anyway?  the 
"authentic" 1950's pointy chested kind?)

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"All the world's a stage, 
and all the men and women merely players.
They have their exits and their entrances; 
and one man in his time plays many parts."
W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costume Designers
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/1999 3:12:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< In Vampire it's clear that living, breathing people are usually depicted 
in 
 natural linens, rusts, yellows, oranges....warm colors. Vampires are 
 generally in purples, strange greens, deep blues and sparkle or glitter 
 unnaturally. Claudia wears a pink dress with clunky padded appliqué at the 
 hem.....an artificial costume of deception in the "wrong" color.... for when 
 she deceives & kills Lestat.  >>

This is my favorite feature of being a costumer.  Being able to paint the 
actors like scenery, if you will, with color schemes and fabrics that tell us 
about them, or mislead us a bit, as in the case of the young and tragically 
undead Claudia.  There is so much artistic joy in the creation of a "look".  
I think Sandy Powell is a goddess to worship, but that's just mnsho!

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both 
wind and tide."
King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html



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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 19:41:17 -0700
From: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: bodice lacing
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-Poster: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>

DRGurley@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: DRGurley@aol.com
> 
> I've been lurking for a while now and since the topic of lacing has come up,
> thought I'd ask my curiosity question:
> 
> It's my understanding that a corset was worn over the chemise and under the
> bodice of Elizabethan costumes of all but peasant level. Is this accurate?
> I've seen many posts about gap between the laces--both front and back--and am
> wondering how one keeps the corset from showing between the laces.
> 
> All my bodices lace tightly closed over my corset. Are there alternatives?
> 
> I'm also interested in making a front lace bodice with a detachable stomacher
> so that a) I can lace into myself, b)it will give me several options for
> combinations (peasant, merchant class, etc).  Any thoughts and/or tips would
> be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!
> Dani G

De-Lurking to add:
I've been seeing a number of lacing styles for bodices at my local
renfair which is set in 1526. Most of the "Nobles" bodices lace only in
the back. Lately, I have been seeing more with two panels that are laced
at the sides Some with separate shoulder straps that can be laced to the
bodice. The "Peasant/Wench" bodices are laced in the front with or
without boning with varying amounts of heavage displayed. Is there
documentation for the front peasant lacing? What are your thoughts on
the two panel method?

If the bodicee is boned and no corset is used is it alright to let the
boning channels (stiching) show on the outside? I have some light weight
bones that are too flexible, will it cause problems if I put 2 bones in
each channel?    

Answers to any or all of my questions eagerly accepted. Let me know if
my descriptions were not clear enough.

Thanks
-- 
Freya

Abair ach beag, is abair gu math e.
Say but little, and say it well.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 18:29:53 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 13:14:13 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Period Patterns
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: "KaraleeLarsenPugmire" <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Francesca wrote:

> May I turn the direction of your critism to Period Patterns?

Ok, but it could be dangerous. ;-)

> I am particularly intersted in the late style tunics (1200's) in Pattern #16.
> I am really a novice at period cutting styles. I've looked at the web sites
> and books that show line drawins of archeological finds, I've even tried
> using these cutting styles in clothes for my daughter's barbies. Though the
> clothes look really good on the dolls, I'm a little intimidated about trying
> to cut into a peice of fabric that has cost more than I had a right to spend.
> (We are at the struggling, but have to make clothes and armor stage.)

You're much, much, much better off doing the cutting in a period style. It's
easier. It will look better. It will fit better. You'll be less frustrated. It
will be more authentic. Everyone will be happy. :-)

If you are afraid to jump right in with your expensive fabric, do a mock up of
the period pattern in el cheapo fabric (hey, look I speak Spanish!). You can
check your pattern and make adjustments before cutting your expensive yardage.
Also, the period method is MUCH more conservative of fabric. (At 6'1", I can
make a floor length tunic with 4 yards of 45" fabric with the period cut.)

> The other day when I was looking at a suggested web site I saw this pattern
> by Period Patterns and wondered what you all think of them. They are too
> expensive for me to just buy one and see. Is it a good step from the
> Simplicity type pattern toward blindly cutting into a peice of $10 a yard
> fabric and knowing it's going to look good and that I won't be giving it
> away a year later because I hate the way it fits and the fact that it's
> really not that period?

This was the first pattern that I used. I used it once, swore at it, crumpled
it up and have never used it again. Do yourself a favor and don't waste your
money on it. According to the size chart on the back, my chest size is a
Medium, and my height is an XXL. The cut is totally inauthentic and very
confusing. It is also very wasteful of fabric.

My suggestion is that you take measurements and use the period rectilinear
construction methods. Do a mock up in cheap fabric first before trying it with
more expensive fabric. You can even do three steps; a mock up in cheap waste
fabric, a first try in inexpensive fabric, and then try the perfected pattern
with the expensive fabric. This way you will not waste any valuable fabric on
your first try, you will have an inexpensive first piece of 'real garb' (which
you can still use, even if it's not perfect), and you will have worked out the
bugs and built your confidence before cutting into your expensive fabric.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

Good luck,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 18:33:17 1999
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Subject: H-COST: book review request
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

Has anyone seen or purchased this book?

The Man of Fashion:  Peacock Males and Perfect Gentlemen
 by Colin McDowell

The blurb claims that it covers ostentation in men's dress, 16th-20th
century.  It sounds intriguing, but I'm not ready to buy it without knowing
a little more.

Thanks
Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 18:49:00 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: COS Real Folkloric costumes from Turkey etc (fwd)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 20:01:34 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

Got anything from Poland or Czechoslovakia?  Prussia?  I would be interested
in these, as they are   parts of my heritage.  And would the price break my
wallet?
-----Original Message-----
From: Ioana Timariu <ioana@yucc.yorku.ca>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 10:49 AM
Subject: H-COST: COS Real Folkloric costumes from Turkey etc (fwd)


>
>-Poster: Ioana Timariu <ioana@yucc.yorku.ca>
>
>
>Hello! Thought some of you might appreciate this:
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 15:15:17 -0700
>From: "Faint, Kylie" <KFaint@sempra.com>
>Reply-To: med-dance@europe.std.com
>To: med-dance@world.std.com
>Subject: COS Real Folkloric costumes from Turkey etc
>
>X-33208-Poster:  "Faint, Kylie" <KFaint@sempra.com>
>
>Hi list,
>
>An "International Gallery" in my neighbourhood is closing down, and they
>have some *awesome* folkloric outfits for sale, which were part of a
>travelling exhibition they did in the US & Canada - these are museum
quality
>costumes!
>
>I've been wracking my brain trying to think who might appreciate these, to
>little avail, so I'm just throwing the info out there, in case anyone's
>interested.
>
>The costume I looked at (they are all bagged up) was 13 pieces, for a
>particular village in Turkey.  It had everything from underwear (very cute
>bloomer type undies!), tunic, apron, vest, jacket, shawls, headpiece &
>jewelry, even a set of kashiklar (dancing spoons)!  The owner phoned me up
>today, and said that he might be able to swing me a special deal, since he
>knows I'm genuinely interested in the stuff.  I am, but I'm wondering what
I
>would do with a collection of authentic folk costumes :)  I don't know
where
>all the costumes are from, as I only looked at one.  The shop has garments
>from Syria, Morroco, Egypt, Afghanistan etc also.
>
>I guess thats all, just had to pass this info on to someone!!
>
>Kylie
>KFaint@Sempra.com
>
>--
>X-To-Get-Help-File: re list & assoc. info (graphics, lyrics, digests, etc),
>email dancers-archive@world.std.com w/ SUBJECT: 'help med-dance'. Body
ignored.
>
>

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From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costume Designers
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>Most abominable
>
>Anything seen in Bonanza (what kind of corsets WERE those anyway?  the
>"authentic" 1950's pointy chested kind?)

Oh, but haven't you seen the authentic pointy-chested 18th-century corsets
in Scaramouche??

;)
Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 19:00:45 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 19:14:45 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

>Here we are.  Matthew of Paris, in describing the wedding and coronation
>of Eleanor to Henry III in 1236 "...sericis vestimentis ornati, cicladibus
>auro textus circumdati, ..."  Well, hmm.  After checking with my Latin
>resources, this looks like *either* "silken ornate garments, encircled (in
>the manner of a cyclas) with golden made stuff" *or* "silken ornate garments,
>encircled (in the manner of the Cyclades). with golden made stuff".  I'm
>thinking the former.
>
>That means that unless better information turns up, it *could* be that
>Norris screwed it up.

I tend to be somewhat skeptical of Norris, but I'm sure not everything in
his books is wrong--still, best to just find the original sources, yes?

So according to Matthew of Paris, we have something decorated in the manner
of a cyclas (or the Cyclades, but let's go with cyclas for now, as it seems
likelier to you).  So at this point we know that a cyclas is decorated with
golden made stuff.

Where did the rest of this misinformation come from?  Did some of the 20th
century authors actually go for period sources and that's why the
definition shifted, or were they all relying on 19th century texts and
unwittingly participated in some sort of linguistic drift?

We've heard about people's favorite sources.  I'm interested to hear what's
on everyone's "notorious sources" shelf (especially Robin's--sounds like
you have a bunch!)--those books that are for the most part untrustworthy in
part or as a whole.  Because not everyone can be an expert in everything, I
think it might be useful to have a gentle warning about those sources we
should use only with extreme caution.

Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 19:13:11 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.b18f8e76.253ccd1f@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 20:29:39 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

You all, I love movies so here is part of my real list, (I tried not to
repeat ones mentioned all ready).  I have been compiling my list for awhile.

--Somewhere in Time (it was on TV again last night), designer Jean-Pierre
Dorléac.
--The Great Gatsby, designer Theoni V. Aldredge.
--Recent version of A Midsummer Nights Dream, designer Gabriella Pescucci.
--The Great Ziegfeld (my favorite for historic and fantasy costumes),
designer Adrian
--Silverado, designer Kristi Zea
--Recent version of Last of the Mohicans ( :) Albert Cat), designer Elsa
Zamparelli
--Can help but love the costumes in Monty Python and the Holy Grail,
designer Hazel Pethig
--Meet Me in St. Louis, designer Irene Sharaff
--Lonesome Dove (yes, TV, it was too long for the big screen), designer Van
Broughton Ramsey
--Excalibur, designer Bob Ringwood
--Forrest Gump, designer Joanna Johnston
--Eve's Bayou, designer Karyn Wagner (II)
--Austin Powers #I & #2, designer Deena Appel
--Pleasantville, designer Judianna Makovsky
--Amercian Graffiti, designer Aggie Guerard Rodgers
--Can't think of the Name of the film but it was about an efficiency expert
and he had about thirteen children.  The swimsuits were wonderful!
--Music Man (was good for a musical), designer Dorothy Jeakins
--Grease  (was good for a musical), designer Albert Wolsky
--Now and Then, designer Deena Appel
--Cross Creek, designer Joe I. Tompkins
--Night Shift (1982 version), designer Jodie Lynn Tillen
--Rasputin (HBO movie)
--Lust for Life (story of Van Gogh), designer Walter Plunkett
--Fanny and Alexander, designer Marik Vos-Lundh
--Schindler's List, designer Anna B. Sheppard
--Little Women, designer Colleen Atwood
--Victor, Victoria (not sure how accurate, but loved the costumes), designer
Patricia Norris
--Bonnie and Clyde, designer Theadora Van Runkle
--The Sting, designer Edith Head
--Lion Out of Africa


Some movies that I love that had good costumes that provided representation
of current fashion or what would become fashionable during the time:
--The Philadelphia Story, designer Adrian
--American Gigolo, designer Giorgio Armani (suits)
--Saturday Night Fever, designer Patrizia von Brandenstein
--Urban Cowboy (Boy, this was hard to admit that it was a fashion)
--Xanadu (the mix of costumes, spoke of the transition in fashion at the
time), designer Bobbie Mannix
--Three Coins in a Fountain, designer Dorothy Jeakins
--Woodstock, designer, The Crowd!
--Love Story, designer Alice Manougan Martin & Pearl Somner
--Annie Hall, designer Ralph Lauren & Ruth Morley
--Wayne's World, (those jeans with the knees out), designer Pat Tonnema
Hippie Musicals of the 1960s & 70s:
--Jesus Christ Superstar (chorus), designer Yvonne Blake
--Hair, designer Ann Roth
--Godspell, designers Sherrie Sucher & Susan Tsu
--The Breakfast Club (they are making a new one), designer Marilyn
Vance-Straker
--St. Elmo's Fire, designer Susan Becker

My list goes on and on...

I will be starting an email list soon on Movie Costumes.  I am just trying
to come up with an identifical name for it.  I'll let you know when I get it
up.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 19:13:52 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/1999 7:25:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
MzScahlett@aol.com writes:

<< Anything seen in Bonanza (what kind of corsets WERE those anyway?  the 
 "authentic" 1950's pointy chested kind?)
  >>

And the eye makeup!

In all fairness to TV it must be understood that they have very little time & 
not as much money compared to film. [Britain has less of a problem in this 
respect....mainly I think due to the way they teach costuming: with a respect 
for what is "correct" over being a fashion designer of some kind] Extras & 
walk-ons often look more correct than leads because they are pulled from 
studio stocks....ironic, huh? I mean the Cartwrights didn't change clothes 
for 10 years!
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 20:41:40 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: bodice lacing
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In a message dated 10/18/1999 7:45:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
jns-shadow@home.com writes:

<< 
 If the bodicee is boned and no corset is used is it alright to let the
 boning channels (stiching) show on the outside? I have some light weight
 bones that are too flexible, will it cause problems if I put 2 bones in
 each channel?    
  >>

I would say no. The casing should not show....except maybe the ones at the 
edge of pieces that lace together. I would also not bone the bodice until you 
have proper bones....rigelene or better, steel bones. You may order them from 

Greenberg & Hammer 1-800-955-5135

Ask for a catalogue.  In mine the 1/2" steel are .60 to.65 a piece or $3.40 
to $4.10 a dozen. See....not bad. They come in 1/2" increments of length so 
figure out just how many of each length you need or just get the longest & 
cut & tip them.....but then you have to get tipping fluid. It depends on how 
many you need.
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
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In a message dated 10/18/1999 8:28:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@erols.com writes:

<< -Recent version of Last of the Mohicans ( :) Albert Cat), designer Elsa
 Zamparelli >>

She finished up after James Acheson was driven away by Michael Mann but most 
all the European costumes were Jame's. Elsa did Dances with Wolves which 
looks quite good.....too bad it's sooooo boring...zzzzzzzzzzzzz.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 19:34:19 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> 
> You all, I love movies so here is part of my real list, (I tried not to
> repeat ones mentioned all ready).  I have been compiling my list for awhile.
> 

Didn't anyone else like Kundun and 7 Years in Tibet for the
costumes?? They were as authentic as possible and had real
Tibetans to correct them when they weren't. It's a way of life
that's lost -- it was nice to see it captured on film for a
little while. 

Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/1999 8:50:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
susanf@netwiz.net writes:

<< 
 Didn't anyone else like Kundun and 7 Years in Tibet for the
 costumes?? They were as authentic as possible and had real
 Tibetans to correct them when they weren't. It's a way of life
 that's lost -- it was nice to see it captured on film for a
 little while. 
  >>
I know...we're so occidental!
No one's mentioned 
Ran
or
The Last Emperor
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 20:14:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
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<Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> I tend to be somewhat skeptical of Norris, but I'm 
> sure not everything in his books is wrong--still, best 
> to just find the original sources, yes?

To be fair, I would have checked, even if it hadn't been 
Norris.

> So according to Matthew of Paris, we have something 
> decorated in the manner of a cyclas (or the Cyclades, 
> but let's go with cyclas for now, as it seems
> likelier to you).  So at this point we know that a 
> cyclas is decorated with golden made stuff.

Or we know that these garments were decorated around, 
like a cyclas (i.e., "encircled" by decoration around 
the edges), and in this case that decoration was with 
golden stuff (tacky gold lame' trim or something, 
maybe).

> Where did the rest of this misinformation come from?

I don't have a clue.  At least some of the "Victorian"  
authors had one definition, which the OED continues to 
support, and others had another.

> Did some of the 20th century authors actually go for 
> period sources and that's why the definition shifted, 
> or were they all relying on 19th century texts and
> unwittingly participated in some sort of linguistic 
> drift?

The problem is that I believe (and this is really an 
opinion, since I can't back it up with clear facts) that 
 "linguistic evolution" as a description is really only 
 valid only for current things, not historical things.
If I manage to convince enough people that their 
automobiles should be called "wampuses" that it takes 
hold, then great, that's evolution of the language.  If 
I try to tell you that Henry Ford made it rich with his 
black snuggly-pop machine, and that "model T" was the 
name of his cat, and that anyone who tells you 
differently is a boob -- that's not really "evolving" 
the language.  That's re-writing the past.

If "Cyclas" was used in the Middle Ages to refer to 
anything other than the traditional Greek and Roman 
("woman's garment edged in something"), I'm not sure 
we've seen it.  It may have been used to refer to a 
tight-fitting tunic or bodice (as per the 1860 source, 
which I haven't found yet), but even so, that's a far 
cry from the men's open-armed tabard for armor, much 
less the sideless surcote (By the way, this is not 
intended as a plea for people to stop using the term to 
refer to sideless surcotes.  It's a term learned in good 
faith, and we still haven't proven that it never was 
used in that fashion).

> We've heard about people's favorite sources.  I'm 
> interested to hear what's on everyone's "notorious 
> sources" shelf (especially Robin's--sounds like
> you have a bunch!)--those books that are for the most 
> part untrustworthy in part or as a whole...

It's a nice idea.  OTOH, *most* works have problems, in 
part or in whole.  The OED for example is deeply flawed 
by b) the fact that the vast majority of its definions 
were written by Victorian scholars b) many of whom 
missed references when something first appeared, c) or
just plain didn't always know what they were talking 
about, but d) there is an aura of perfection about it.  
I'd say it's about a 98% good source, but I'm likely to 
be accused of being generous.

If you don't mind, I actually was annotating part of a 
bibliography when this question came up, so I will pass 
along some of what I have.  If you disagree with any of 
these, please tell me...

(Boucher, Françoise.  20000 Years of Fashion. New York: 
Abrams, 1966)  I am under the impression this is a 
beloved source, and it does seem pretty good.  There are 
a few mistakes here and there in the text (mostly of 
typographical), but keeping that in mind it seems pretty 
reliable.

(Davies, Stephanie.  Costume Language, a Dictionary of 
Dress Terms. Malvern: Cresselles Pub.Co.Ltd., 1994)
The author of this work died before the final work was 
finished, and so I shouldn't criticize the work too 
badly as I have no idea what it would have been like had 
she lived.  On the other hand, what we have has some 
problems, not the least of which is credibility.  There 
are sufficient flaws in the topics I do know about, that 
using her for the things I don't know about makes me a 
bit leery.

(Hill, Margot, and Peter Bucknell, Evolution of Fashion, 
New York Drama Book Specialists 1981, c1967)
A lovely beginner's book and written to present the 
information, pre-digested to an audience that doesn't 
have time to mess with research.  For that reason, the 
authors don't cite their material, and it's practically 
impossible to back track their work.  If you are doing 
historical costumes, use the book -- if you are 
researching historical accuracy, use with caution.

(Köhler, Karl, A History of Costume. ed. & aug. by Emma 
von Sichart, trans. by Alexander K. Dallas.  New York : 
Dover Publications, 1963)
A standard work among amateurs.  What doesn't seem to be 
generally realized is that it is a reprint of a 1928 
text, translated from an 1870s German original 
(Praktische Kostümkunde), with some stuff tossed in to 
make it up to date for 1928.

(Norris, Herbert.  Costume and Fashion, Volume Two. 
Senlac to Bosworth. London: Dent, 1927)
I confess to a weakness.  I like Norris.  His work on 
ecclesiastical clothing is really well done enough to 
make me willing to forgive some of the flaws in this 
more general survey -- and this is a deeply flawed work. 
 The text is easy to digest, the pictures are pretty, 
and not generally innaccurate. Conversely, he's 
responsible for some of the worst information to be 
transmitted to costumers.  He doesn't cite the work 
particularly well, or particularly throughly, and there 
I have heard people accuse him of making material up.  I 
wouldn't go THAT far, but I would suggest that if all 
you are doing is simple historical costumes, use the 
book if you want to -- if you are researching historical 
accuracy, use with caution.  In either case, don't brag 
about it, or else you may get to hear all sorts of nasty 
things.

Marc
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:20:15 -0700
From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
Organization: Red Dragon Enterprises
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>

Susannah Eanes wrote:

> I have access to the inventory of an old store that contains, among
> other wonderful things, original late 18th - early 19th c. silk
> stockings & corsets in their original boxes.  I don't know how they
> have stood up to the decades of being stored away in an
> unheated/uncooled store attic warehouse, but they sure look & feel
> pretty good to me.  The owner is currently assessing these items for
> sale either in lots or as one whole.  If anyone is interested in
> finding out more, please e-mail me privately.

I am just starting to clear my H-COST message when I say your offer.

If it is not to late please add my name and address to those who are
interested

David S. Mallinak
matchlck@erol.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 20:35:07 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: indian traveller 1515
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

R.L. Shep wrote:
> 
> I have forwarded your request to Irene Joshi the South Asian Librarian
> at the University of Washington Library. Clothing is one of her
> specialties. In case you want to contact her directly her email is
> joshi@u.washington.edu

But could we all hear the answer please?? I would be very
interested, myself.

> A question from me: what would a well-to-do Indian (and I mean the
> Asian sub-continent) traveller to 1515 Europe wear? It's just before
> Moghul rule and I suppose he would have been Hindu. Would he, f.i.,

He would not have to be a Hindu. The Delhi Sultanate (est. ca.
1200 AD) for example, predates the Moghul "invasion" and the earliest
Moslem incursions into the subcontinent (Sind) was in 711. (I'm
looking in a book on architectural inscriptions, not costume,
unfortunately)

If he's going to be a Hindu, he could be a Rajput -- they wore
nice clothes, not those diaperish looking dhoti things. (what
can I say, I prefer cut-and-sewn garments to wrapped and draped)

> aquire western type clothes on the long and slow way west and combine
> these with some of his native dress, or would he be conservative, or,
> on the other hand, completely do away with his things and go
> Habsburg/late burgundian/landsknecht (he is not a military person,
> though).

Ugh. Then what's the point of having him be Indian?? 
The one book I have with any info on historic Indian
costumes implies that an upper class *Northern* Indian
man would have worn a costume similar to a Persian of
the same status. So that might be a place to start. 

I hope there's lots of responses on this one!

Susan F.
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>


>I mean the Cartwrights didn't change clothes for 10 years!

That is funny.  My grandmother loved Bonanza, and we would watch it every
week.  She would often comment on how much she hated that green coat Little
Joe wore and wonder why they wouldn't let him wear anything else.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 20:39:57 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> The Man of Fashion:  Peacock Males and Perfect Gentlemen
>  by Colin McDowell
> 
> The blurb claims that it covers ostentation in men's dress, 16th-20th
> century.  It sounds intriguing, but I'm not ready to buy it without knowing
> a little more.

I got to see it this weekend. I plan on buying it, but then, I 
collect costume books. It seemed to have a rather gay emphasis, 
however. If that bothers you, you don't want it. It draws parallels 
from various times in history. I found it very interesting.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 20:43:47 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I know...we're so occidental!
> No one's mentioned
> Ran
> or
> The Last Emperor

Oh, I thought Last Emperor had been mentioned. Both Eastern
and Western clothes were wonderful.

Ran was great, but there are so many Japanese movies.
I just thought it was great that someone had done Tibetan.

And speaking of Orlando, I loved the movie, but the "Prince"
in Uzbekistan (or wherever it was supposed to be) was all
wrong!  Was he a eunuch? He had no facial hair at all, and
his clothing looked like it was left over from Thief of
Baghdad.

Cheers,

Susan

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

Regarding 18th Century and Valmont:
> All I can tell you is that she played her character as much to the letter
> of what she found. One of the interesteing things she found was that cross
> dressing for females was exclusive to the courtesans. Sorry I could not be
> much more help than that.

That's interesting. It certainly wasn't the case for 16th Century. 
There are many instances where women crossdressed, often just for the 
fun of it, including notable women who are not necessarily notorious, 
such as Mary Queen of Scots and Elizabeth I. They were known as  
Roaring Girls.  Plays were written about some of the ones who did so. 
I have a playbill copy of one called "He-she." . 

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 08:29 PM 10/18/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>Y
>--Can't think of the Name of the film but it was about an efficiency expert
>and he had about thirteen children. 

Cheaper By the Dozen.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 21:02:56 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:47:09 -0700
From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
Organization: Red Dragon Enterprises
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To: h-costume@indra.com, lib_imc@centum.utulsa.edu
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoes in History question
References: <990416115613.12822b@centum.utulsa.edu>
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>

"I. Marc Carlson" wrote:

> Hi, it's me again.  I am trying to find factual evidence of what types of shoes were
> being worn in Byzantium, Coptic Egypt, the ancient Near East, the Steppes, and the
> Ancient Far East.  Basically, I'm currently out of leads since it appears that no one
> has dug any up, or bothered to discuss them.  However, since I am moving into things
> beyond my normal areas of research, I may just be missing the literature -- so I am
> asking for help.  Any help.  I would prefer archaeology over pictures, contemporary art
> over something made up for a costuming book, you know - the basic drill :)

A friend visted West Germany about ten years ago and brought back a catalog of exhibt of
shoes.  Nearly 100 pages of pictures of shoes from England, Germany and Russia.  I use it
just for the pictures of shoes and the years.  As I do not read German (and do not know
anyone who is will to translate the captions) it is about all I can.  If the information
is usefull maybe you can locate another copy.  I have very little idea what it says but
what would be the publisher I have copied what appears to usefull information
therefore....

Deutsches Ledermuseum Katolog Heft 6

Deutsches Schuhmuseum  1979

KATALOG des DEUSCHEN LEDERMUSUEM mit dem angeschlossenen DEUTSCHEN SCHMUSEUM

...

Heft 6 Deutsches Schuhmuseum 1. Auflage 1980. Katalog der Sonderausstellung,,Market in
der Sahel 1979.

David S Mallinak
matchlck@erols.com


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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 19:16:42 -0700
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Chinese headscarves for men?
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

KATHARINE WHISLER wrote:
> 
> -Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
> 
> Recently, the man in my life asked me to make him an early (Tang
> Dynasty, say) costume to wear to an SCA event.  After looking at a bunch
> of art books, I think I have it covered, but there is one thing that still
> really mystifies me.
> 
> Apparently, many of these men are wearing what looks like a hat but is
> actually a black scarf tied over a topknot.  According to "5000 Years of

Did you find out any more about these "turban"??
Someone I know is thinking about a costume, and this could
be useful info!

Susan F.


-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 21:17:19 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: side-laced bodices
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 19:30:56 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
>Actually, I've found a painting using both front and side lacing. >It's 
>Cosimo Tura's "Spring" from c. 1460.

And there is another one done by Piero della Francesca called "la Madonna 
del parto" which shows both front and side lacing on the gown.
>
>You can find it at the Web Gallery Search:
>http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.html

Ditto.  (But look under Piero della Francesca, religious paintings, 
madonna).

Karie (AKA Allessandre)

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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:43:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoes in History question
In-reply-to: <199910190215.UAA23808@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu


<"David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>>
>> Hi, it's me again.  I am trying to find factual 
>> evidence of what types of shoes were being worn in 
>> Byzantium, Coptic Egypt, the ancient Near East, the
>> Steppes, and the Ancient Far East...
> A friend visted West Germany about ten years ago and 
> brought back a catalog of exhibt of shoes.  Nearly 100 
> pages of pictures of shoes from England, Germany and
> Russia...KATALOG des DEUSCHEN LEDERMUSUEM mit dem 
> angeschlossenen DEUTSCHEN SCHMUSEUM...

Thank you.  I will see if I can find this one.

Marc

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:52 PM 10/18/1999 -0400, you wrote: -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>Ran
           Incredible film.  I loved something I watched as a television
series on Japanese Theater nights for months.  They anglicized the title
as:  "The Shadow Warriors", but it is not the one by Kurosawa ... [et al.].
 If I knew the real title and could find a copy, [I understand it was a 14
hour film that ran in segments in Japan originally.] I would buy it ASA
humanly P. Carol
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/99 8:28:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@erols.com writes:

<< --Can't think of the Name of the film but it was about an efficiency expert
 and he had about thirteen children.  The swimsuits were wonderful! >>

Cheeper by the Dozen. The sequal is Bells on Their Toes. The books are fab- 
never seen the movie.

-Alison Stacy
acstacy@cc.owu.edu
aliaclaire@aol.com
Delaware, Ohio
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 22:45:05 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies 
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/1999 17:29:09 Pacific Daylight Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@erols.com writes:

<< -Can't think of the Name of the film but it was about an efficiency expert
 and he had about thirteen children.  The swimsuits were wonderful! >>

Could you mean "Cheaper by the Dozen", with Clifton Webb & Myrna Loy?  Made 
in the 50s and set in the 20s??

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"O, what a world of vile ill-favored faults  looks handsome in three hundred 
pounds a year!..."
The Merry Wives of Windsor, III, iv - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 22:47:33 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 00:05:03 -0400
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Japanese hakama patterns
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

For the person who asked me what hakama pants looked like, I put the
Folkwear pattern pictures on my website.

http://people.ne.mediaone.net/janicedals/temporary/hakama.html

For the others who wanted the formula, it's really Folkwear's formula,so
I can't just give it to you.  We changed it slightly since we start
before their sizes and extend past them.  We also made the side openings
shorter and altered the back.  They came out fitting wonderfully well,
with no side gapeing.  Just had to fix the hem a bit on some of them,
but that's a figure problem, not a pattern problem.  
My husband took Folkwear's way of measuring point to point to draft the
pattern and did a spreadsheet on Microsoft Excel.  It did the rest of
the work for us.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/1999 17:30:56 Pacific Daylight Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< In all fairness to TV it must be understood that they have very little 
time & 
 not as much money compared to film. [Britain has less of a problem in this 
 respect....mainly I think due to the way they teach costuming: with a 
respect 
 for what is "correct" over being a fashion designer of some kind] Extras & 
 walk-ons often look more correct than leads because they are pulled from 
 studio stocks....ironic, huh? I mean the Cartwrights didn't change clothes 
 for 10 years! >>

I know, GROSS!  By the end of the show, Hoss' leather vest was looking kinda 
scummy!  I think the 50s was the worst decade for current details "oozing" 
into film and television.  Bonanza is one of the best examples, but you see 
it all over the place. To some extent it's a natural phenomenon, discussed 
here on the list from time to time, but the 50s seems to have really left out 
any attempt to get it right (except the bigger budget A films).  What would 
it have cost that show to put those women in even a half-hearted attempt at a 
period corset?  Not that much, but they wanted the modern bustline (Ugh, not 
my favorite).  And then there was all that BLUE eyeshadow.  Very frontier.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,  and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here, while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 00:12:34 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

> >--Can't think of the Name of the film but it was about an efficiency
expert
> >and he had about thirteen children.
>
> Cheaper By the Dozen.


That's it!  I love this movie, especially the lesson on bathing.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 22:58:19 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:08:46 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I am afraid that the costuming in *7 Years in Tibet* put me off because
everything was so CLEAN.  They may be authentic in the ultimate sense but
not in the practical sense.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: AlbertCat@aol.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
>Date: Mon, Oct 18, 1999, 5:52 PM
>

>
>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 10/18/1999 8:50:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>susanf@netwiz.net writes:
>
><< 
> Didn't anyone else like Kundun and 7 Years in Tibet for the
> costumes?? They were as authentic as possible and had real
> Tibetans to correct them when they weren't. It's a way of life
> that's lost -- it was nice to see it captured on film for a
> little while. 
>  >>
>I know...we're so occidental!
>No one's mentioned 
>Ran
>or
>The Last Emperor


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 23:01:59 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 00:15:12 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoes in History question
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Marc Carlson wrote: 
>>  I am trying to find factual 
>> evidence of what types of shoes were being worn in 
>> Byzantium, Coptic Egypt, the ancient Near East, the
>> Steppes, and the Ancient Far East...

Check  "20,000 Years of Fashion"  by Boucher and pull out the source texts he 
used for his references to footwear. He spends almost the first half of the 
book on antiquities, so there's a good deal to pull from. Then if you can 
locate the texts he used to research his conclusions at a library or with 
ILL, it might be a place to find more detailed material.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"So far as my coin would stretch; and where it would not
I have used my credit."
King Henry the Fourth; I, ii - W. Shakespeare


QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 23:02:37 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 00:16:30 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Cross Dressing Elizabeth
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com


In a message dated 10/18/99 10:06:16 PM, kat@grendal.rain.com writes:

<< There are many instances where women crossdressed, often just for the 
fun of it, including notable women who are not necessarily notorious, 
such as Mary Queen of Scots and Elizabeth I.  >>

I would be interested to know where this tidbit came from. I've not 
encountered this in my studies of Queen Elizabeth. Could you please cite the 
source for me?

Yours gratefully,
Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 23:06:41 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:18:06 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



DRGurley@aol.com wrote:

> It's my understanding that a corset was worn over the chemise and under the
> bodice of Elizabethan costumes of all but peasant level. Is this accurate?

CAn't help you there.

> I've seen many posts about gap between the laces--both front and back--and am
> wondering how one keeps the corset from showing between the laces.

The gap referred to is the one between the sides of the corset, not both the
corset and bodice.  The reason you want a gap in the corset is to account for
variations in weight/water retention.  The bodice shouldn't have a gap- it should
close completely.

> All my bodices lace tightly closed over my corset. Are there alternatives?

That's the correct way.

> I'm also interested in making a front lace bodice with a detachable stomacher
> so that a) I can lace into myself, b)it will give me several options for
> combinations (peasant, merchant class, etc).  Any thoughts and/or tips would
> be appreciated.

I'm not sure a detachable stomacher would be period for Elizabethan, but it
probably would be for Cavalier.  Not real interested in Elizabethan myself.

Carolyn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 23:07:50 1999
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Freya wrote:

> -If the bodicee is boned and no corset is used is it alright to let the
> boning channels (stiching) show on the outside? I have some light weight
> bones that are too flexible, will it cause problems if I put 2 bones in
> each channel?

My personal preference is that the boning channels shouldn't show - I just think it
looks neater and more finished.  YMMV, and I don't know if there's a period
precedent.

CArolyn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 18 23:43:26 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
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-Poster: Stephen Fairman <fairmans@teleport.com>



Penny Ladnier wrote:

> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> > >--Can't think of the Name of the film but it was about an efficiency
> expert
> > >and he had about thirteen children.
> >
> > Cheaper By the Dozen.
>
> That's it!  I love this movie, especially the lesson on bathing.
>
> Later... Penny
> http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________

 That is the book that taught me how to bath correctly.  I still find
myself doing it the Gilbreath Way!  Loved the books and still re-read them
and rent the movies periodically.  Those stories really affected my live,
for some reason.

Esteban McLachan
Shadow's Treasure Chest

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: H-COST: cyclas sources and comments on the annotations--long
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu

>The problem is that I believe (and this is really an
>opinion, since I can't back it up with clear facts) that
> "linguistic evolution" as a description is really only
> valid only for current things, not historical things.

This is a valid distinction.  I used the wrong phrase to describe what I
meant, which was a drift in meaning that can occur incrementally and
unwittingly as information is used in several texts, each of which uses
their predecessor as a source.  It's the literary version of the "telephone
game."

Regarding the bibliography, Boucher I love, Kohler I use cautiously, and
Davies I haven't read.

>(Hill, Margot, and Peter Bucknell, Evolution of Fashion,
>New York Drama Book Specialists 1981, c1967)
>A lovely beginner's book and written to present the
>information, pre-digested to an audience that doesn't
>have time to mess with research.  For that reason, the
>authors don't cite their material, and it's practically
>impossible to back track their work.  If you are doing
>historical costumes, use the book -- if you are
>researching historical accuracy, use with caution.

I personally dislike this book rather intensely, and it's mostly because I
feel that the patterns have little relation to the costumes they are meant
to represent.  I admit that I haven't read the text that closely, having
had an instant and visceral reaction to the pattern shapes.  I feel that
your caveat is well-deserved.

>(Norris, Herbert.  Costume and Fashion, Volume Two.
>Senlac to Bosworth. London: Dent, 1927)
<...> He doesn't cite the work
>particularly well, or particularly throughly, and there
>I have heard people accuse him of making material up.  I
>wouldn't go THAT far

I would.  If you'll look at figure 576 on page 490, you'll see a drawing of
Elizabeth on a horse in a very fetching ensemble.  When I first saw this, I
thought, how pretty.  In the text, you'll discover that he's based it on a
very short description:  black velvet, cut all over in a design, worn over
an underdress of white satin; bodice and sleeves braided with narrow gold
[plus description of hair and hat, which are probably pretty close to
true].  Now this description could apply to any of many different styles
from 1564, and I could go into detail about why this particular outfit
wasn't it, but I'll spare you that.

Norris also tends to be, in the best tradition of secondary sources,
revisionist.  For example, in figure 719, on page 625, we see a lovely
young lady setting a ruff.  She seems like a great example of a mid to
lower class woman, and you don't find that many pictures of these.  Now I
will admit that the ruff-setting part stays the same, but if you look in
Janet Arnold's QE's Wardrobe Unlock'd, on page 228 you will see the
original source for Norris' lovely maid--a monkey, wearing a different
dress.  Norris also omits poor young Edward VI's codpiece (to protect the
public, I guess) as well as changing the trim on his outfit.

I'm not claiming that everything in his work is inaccurate, and I think
much of his text is probably just fine, but as you say, use with caution,
especially the pictures.

>In either case, don't brag
>about it, or else you may get to hear all sorts of nasty
>things.

(For sample, see above!)  ;)

Melanie


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Message-ID: <0.1a6ea62d.253d57b3@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 01:12:19 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 10/18/99 11:58:56 PM Central Daylight Time, 
fairmans@teleport.com writes:

<< Cheaper By the Dozen.
 >
 > That's it!  I love this movie, especially the lesson on bathing. >>

I also like it.  THe sequal also where he dies and the Mother goes to work.  
I can't remember the name of it either.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 00:02:00 1999
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From: "Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomad@opalsun.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: COS Real Folkloric costumes from Turkey etc (fwd)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 22:14:12 -0700
Message-ID: <000001bf19f0$e368b9c0$650210ac@opalsun.pacbell.net>
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-Poster: "Margo Glenn-Lewis" <nomad@opalsun.com>

Oooh ooh oooh - I'm interested!!  Turkey, Morocco, Afganistan - you betcha!
Ah, how much?


Margo Glenn-Lewis

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Ioana Timariu
> Sent: Monday, October 18, 1999 7:46 AM
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: COS Real Folkloric costumes from Turkey etc (fwd)
>
>
>
> -Poster: Ioana Timariu <ioana@yucc.yorku.ca>
>
>
> Hello! Thought some of you might appreciate this:
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 15:15:17 -0700
> From: "Faint, Kylie" <KFaint@sempra.com>
> Reply-To: med-dance@europe.std.com
> To: med-dance@world.std.com
> Subject: COS Real Folkloric costumes from Turkey etc
>
> X-33208-Poster:  "Faint, Kylie" <KFaint@sempra.com>
>
> Hi list,
>
> An "International Gallery" in my neighbourhood is closing
> down, and they
> have some *awesome* folkloric outfits for sale, which were part of a
> travelling exhibition they did in the US & Canada - these are
> museum quality
> costumes!
>
> I've been wracking my brain trying to think who might
> appreciate these, to
> little avail, so I'm just throwing the info out there, in
> case anyone's
> interested.
>
> The costume I looked at (they are all bagged up) was 13 pieces, for a
> particular village in Turkey.  It had everything from
> underwear (very cute
> bloomer type undies!), tunic, apron, vest, jacket, shawls, headpiece &
> jewelry, even a set of kashiklar (dancing spoons)!  The owner
> phoned me up
> today, and said that he might be able to swing me a special
> deal, since he
> knows I'm genuinely interested in the stuff.  I am, but I'm
> wondering what I
> would do with a collection of authentic folk costumes :)  I
> don't know where
> all the costumes are from, as I only looked at one.  The shop
> has garments
> from Syria, Morroco, Egypt, Afghanistan etc also.
>
> I guess thats all, just had to pass this info on to someone!!
>
> Kylie
> KFaint@Sempra.com
>
> --
> X-To-Get-Help-File: re list & assoc. info (graphics, lyrics,
> digests, etc),
> email dancers-archive@world.std.com w/ SUBJECT: 'help
> med-dance'. Body ignored.
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 01:01:57 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 13:52:04 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Stubbes on Jerkins
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9910151421060.21069-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>He was an Englishman, commenting on English fashion.  I have his collected
>opinions on Ruffs, women's hair, shoes, clothing, etc. online at
>http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/stubbes.html
>

>> What country was he talking about - Germany?
>> 

>> >"Their coates and Jerkins, as they be diverse in colors, so be they
>> >diverse in fashions; for some be made with colors, some without, some
>> >close to the bodie, some loose, covering the whole body downe to the
>> >theighe, like baggs or sacks that weare
>> >
>> >drawen over them, hidinge the dimensions and proportions of the body:
>> >some are buttened down the brest, some under the arm, and some downe
>> >the back; some with flappes over the brest, some without, some with
>> >great sleeves, some with small, and some with non at all; some pleated
>> >and crested behind, and curiously gathered; some not so; & how many
>> >days so many sortes of apparell some one man will have, and thinketh
>> >it good provision in faire weather to lay up against a storme! "

I know he had some opinions on German costumes, and I was wondering if this
was one of them.  Davenport quotes him on German costume (where is that
book when I need it?).



Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 01:30:40 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 15:51:58 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies 
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Best Japanese historical - Chushingura - the 47 Ronin story.  They've got
the best Japanese court costumes of anyone's.




Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 01:44:32 1999
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From: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Need to take a break from the list/thanks much to all
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 23:59:00 PDT
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-Poster: "L.L. Johnson" <athenekore@hotmail.com>

Hullo to all

I'm realizing that I need to take a break from the list. It's taking me too 
much time to read the posts. You folks are just way too prolific. :-)

Thanks very much for answering my questions and for sharing your knowledge. 
I am planning to resubscribe to the digest version after my break.

Until then, take care

Lonna

______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 04:41:32 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 10:08:36 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

David S. Mallinak wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
> 
> Susannah Eanes wrote:
> 
> > I have access to the inventory of an old store that contains, among
> > other wonderful things, original late 18th - early 19th c. silk
> > stockings & corsets in their original boxes.  I don't know how they
> > have stood up to the decades of being stored away in an
> > unheated/uncooled store attic warehouse, but they sure look & feel
> > pretty good to me.  The owner is currently assessing these items for
> > sale either in lots or as one whole.  If anyone is interested in
> > finding out more, please e-mail me privately.
> 
> I am just starting to clear my H-COST message when I say your offer.
> 
> If it is not to late please add my name and address to those who are
> interested
> 
> David S. Mallinak
> matchlck@erol.com
> 
Please also add me to the list
for some reason I didn't get the original email otherwise I would have
jumped in earlier


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 07:22:52 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Theatre Design list
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 08:39:40 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

There is a new email list on www.onelist.com called TheatreDesign  .  This
list deals with costume design, makeup artists, and set design for the film
and theatre industries.  I do not run this list, I am just a member.

One feature of the list is guest artists.  This month it's make-up
artist Jennifer Aspinall.  Jen is a make-up artist, who has worked in all
media.  Her theatre work includes NY City Opera, Victor/Victoria
(Broadway)and vacation relief for Phantom of
the Opera (Broadway).  Jen created the make-up and special effects for the
Toxic Avenger (film), more recent she designed Basquat turning David Bowie
into Andy Warhol (film).  Currently, for television, she designs MadTV
(Fox), before that Saturday Night Live (NBC).  Next month it's lighting
designer Dawn Chang.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

Of course Tibetans washed their clothes!  Clean clothes were held in high regard and would have been entirely appropriate among the Llasa elite. If you look at Heinrich Harrer's book of photos of pre-occupation Tibet, everyone looks clean--real evidence that the notion of "dirty natives" is much more stereotype than actual truth. 

Mary
---
Visit my homepage:
http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly

On Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:08:46   R.L. Shep wrote:
>
>-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
>I am afraid that the costuming in *7 Years in Tibet* put me off because
>everything was so CLEAN.  They may be authentic in the ultimate sense but
>not in the practical sense.
>~!~ R.L.Shep
>http://www.rlshep.com
>
>----------
>>From: AlbertCat@aol.com
>>To: h-costume@indra.com
>>Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
>>Date: Mon, Oct 18, 1999, 5:52 PM
>>
>
>>
>>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>>
>>In a message dated 10/18/1999 8:50:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>>susanf@netwiz.net writes:
>>
>><< 
>> Didn't anyone else like Kundun and 7 Years in Tibet for the
>> costumes?? They were as authentic as possible and had real
>> Tibetans to correct them when they weren't. It's a way of life
>> that's lost -- it was nice to see it captured on film for a
>> little while. 
>>  >>
>>I know...we're so occidental!
>>No one's mentioned 
>>Ran
>>or
>>The Last Emperor


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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


Take a look at this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=182283185

My question is, it is remotely "period" for any
specific group of people in any specific time or is it
just a "fantasy" makeup?  I'm going to buy it anyway,
but I was curious... If I am going to spend that much
money on something I would like to know about it...

Thanks!

Sarah


=====

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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

I LOVE the Buccaneers!! Tess of the D'Urbervilles had some Beautiful clothes in it as well. I've been watching the Masterpiece theatre version of Aristocrats (3 part series, part 3 on pbs next sunday night) and I'm not sure about how authentic they are, but the costumes are beautiful, and plenty of them to be seen.

---
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Ginnaphure

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"Last time we mixed politics with religion, people got burned at the stake." 




On Mon, 18 Oct 1999 15:21:03   Pandoorah wrote:

>
>The Buccaneers (the BBC production)



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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming 
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

My favorite non-occidental film was Kama Sutra, set in 16th century
India.

Absolutely /droolsome/ costumes!

Drea

On Mon, 18 Oct 1999, Susan Fatemi wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
> 
> AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> > 
> > I know...we're so occidental!
> > No one's mentioned
> > Ran
> > or
> > The Last Emperor
> 
> Oh, I thought Last Emperor had been mentioned. Both Eastern
> and Western clothes were wonderful.
> 
> Ran was great, but there are so many Japanese movies.
> I just thought it was great that someone had done Tibetan.
> 
> And speaking of Orlando, I loved the movie, but the "Prince"
> in Uzbekistan (or wherever it was supposed to be) was all
> wrong!  Was he a eunuch? He had no facial hair at all, and
> his clothing looked like it was left over from Thief of
> Baghdad.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Susan
> 
> -- 
> Oh Noh! Kimonos!
> susanf@netwiz.net
> http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 07:54:34 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Regarding Tibet, and movies

There was a long discussion about Phantom Menace and Tibetan/other asian
derivations of the costumes, this past spring.  One of the fan sites has
a great photo of a Tibetan woman, wearing the sort of outfit which must
have directly influenced the "speaking before the Senate" outfit that
Amidala wears.  (Horned hair, pendant cylinders, shoulders pads on
steroids, etc.)

It's at http://www.sccs.swarthmore.edu/~duffy/pic162.html

cv
--
"Oh bother," said the Borg, "We've assimilated Pooh."     (source
unknown, alas)
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: bodice lacing
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 09:18:16 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

Greenberg & Hammer also sells steel boning by the pound, in rolls you can
cut to fit.  I ordered individual bones as directed for my first corset, and
found I had to alter the corset and then had to cut the bones anyway.  So I
next ordered a roll of the 1/2" boning and have been very happy.  I need to
call in an order for the 1/4" soon........
-----Original Message-----
From: AlbertCat@aol.com <AlbertCat@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: bodice lacing


>
>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 10/18/1999 7:45:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>jns-shadow@home.com writes:
>
><<
> If the bodicee is boned and no corset is used is it alright to let the
> boning channels (stiching) show on the outside? I have some light weight
> bones that are too flexible, will it cause problems if I put 2 bones in
> each channel?
>  >>
>
>I would say no. The casing should not show....except maybe the ones at the
>edge of pieces that lace together. I would also not bone the bodice until
you
>have proper bones....rigelene or better, steel bones. You may order them
from
>
>Greenberg & Hammer 1-800-955-5135
>
>Ask for a catalogue.  In mine the 1/2" steel are .60 to.65 a piece or $3.40
>to $4.10 a dozen. See....not bad. They come in 1/2" increments of length so
>figure out just how many of each length you need or just get the longest &
>cut & tip them.....but then you have to get tipping fluid. It depends on
how
>many you need.
>

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming 
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/19/1999 9:01:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
aleed@dnaco.net writes:

<< My favorite non-occidental film was Kama Sutra, set in 16th century
 India.
  >>

Eduardo Castro designed that in something like 2 weeks! [I worked for him on 
the miniseries "The Wedding" What a great guy! Love him!] The original 
designer was fired because she just wasn't "getting it". She is the one who 
did that horrible "Bram Stoker's Dracula"....in which she also didn't "get 
it".
It is anything but accurate...Kama Sutra....but beautiful in the extreme! 
Great soundtrack too....I recommend the CD.
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 09:35:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming 
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/19/1999 9:01:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
aleed@dnaco.net writes:

<< My favorite non-occidental film was Kama Sutra, set in 16th century
 India.
  >>
I forgot to mention....want to see some interesting Indian costume....and an 
interesting film...try the 3 part "Mahabarata".
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

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Hi,

Costume terminology is a bitch. From the earliest costumebooks writers =
and researchers have struggled with the terms under which different =
costume parts were known; then and now. The problem was only exaggerated =
by people copying these terms form their favourite costumebooks, also =
depending in which language they were written. Some people, out of =
nescessity, can only read books in their own language. I am in the =
luxureous position that, besides Dutch, I can read also English, French, =
German, some Italian and Spanish en a little bit of the Scandinavian =
languages, as well as some Latin (with a little bit of help). I also own =
several etymological dictionaries which give the sources of words in all =
kinds of medieval or earlier languages. Dictionaries for medieval or =
older languages are also useful to have. These makes it easier to =
compare terms and read what writers about costume of the past did wrong =
(;-) ).

The best method, of course, is going back to the original sources. I =
have done that and am still searching for medieval accounts, cronicles, =
testaments. etc. in middle-dutch to find out what people in my favourite =
period (ca1250-1350) called the several parts of the costume they wore. =
What you find is (and the other researchers will agree) that sometimes =
people then had different terms for the same thing and that some terms =
could point to a few different garments, even within this short period =
of a 100 years.

My problem is not as great as that of costume historians who want to use =
a complete and all embracing terminology in the medium they're using, be =
it a lecture, a paper or a book. I write for re-enactors or living =
history people who just want to know what people in their chosen period =
called things. For my own fun I want to know where the terms I encounter =
come from, how they developped and what eventually became of them. I =
also want to search for the development of garments from one thing or =
use to another. And a fascinating search it is...

This brings me to the cyclas. In my experience I have never in medieval =
sources encountered a garment with that name. I have, however, read =
about the cloth 'cyclat', 'ziklat', etc. This was, according to the =
Tristan Romance of Gotfried von Strassburg (ca 1210), a heavy silk cloth =
shot with gold- or silverthreads, a forerummer of 'brocat', which had =
more of a regular pattern woven into it. As with the 'bliaut' which was =
derived from 'bliat' another type of silk weave, the cyclas, if it was =
really called that way then, the name of the cloth could have become the =
name of a typical garment made of it. It must have been a costly one, =
meant for the nobility, as they were about the only ones able to afford =
it. I doubt this, though...

In my opinion (for what it's worth) the confusion has originated with =
the costume historians of the last century who had a broad time-canvas =
to fill. Here's how I think it went: they saw the similarity between the =
medieval 'cyclat' and the greek 'cuclas', 'cuclaton' a kind of loose =
wrap-like robe or mantle (Roman 'cucullus') and as they had seen =
sideless (and I don't mean sleeveless, so with open sides) wraps in =
medieval miniatures, they gave these the name 'cyclas'. They did not =
know then that this type of overthrow garment was mostly called 'jupe', =
'jupon', 'jupel' or 'houce', 'housse' etc. i.o.w. a poncho kind of thing =
of a fairly narrow width. Si non e vero, e ben trovato, huh?

Henk

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Costume terminology is a bitch. From =
the earliest=20
costumebooks writers and researchers have struggled with the terms under =
which=20
different costume parts were known; then and now. The problem was only=20
exaggerated by people copying these terms form their favourite =
costumebooks,=20
also depending in which language they were written. Some people, out of=20
nescessity, can only read books in their own language. I am in the =
luxureous=20
position that, besides Dutch,&nbsp;I can read also English, French, =
German, some=20
Italian and Spanish en a little bit of the Scandinavian languages, as =
well as=20
some Latin (with a little bit of help). I also own several etymological=20
dictionaries which give the sources of words in all kinds of medieval or =
earlier=20
languages. Dictionaries for medieval or older languages are also useful =
to have.=20
These makes it easier to compare terms and read what writers about =
costume of=20
the past did wrong (;-) ).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The best method, of course, is going =
back to the=20
original sources. I have done that and am still searching for medieval =
accounts,=20
cronicles, testaments. etc. in middle-dutch to find out what people in =
my=20
favourite period (ca1250-1350) called the several parts of the costume =
they=20
wore. What you find is (and the other researchers will agree) that =
sometimes=20
people then had different terms for the same thing and that some terms =
could=20
point to a few different garments, even within this short period of a =
100=20
years.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My problem is not as great as that of =
costume=20
historians who want to use a complete and all embracing terminology in =
the=20
medium they're using, be it a lecture, a paper or a book. I write for=20
re-enactors or living history people who just want to know what people =
in their=20
chosen period called things. For my own fun I want to know where the =
terms I=20
encounter come from, how they developped and what eventually became of =
them. I=20
also want to search for the development of garments from one thing or =
use to=20
another. And a fascinating search it is...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>This brings me to the cyclas. In my =
experience I=20
have never in medieval sources encountered a garment with that name. I =
have,=20
however, read about the cloth 'cyclat', 'ziklat', etc. This was, =
according to=20
the Tristan Romance of Gotfried von Strassburg (ca 1210), a heavy silk =
cloth=20
shot with gold- or silverthreads, a forerummer of 'brocat', which had =
more of a=20
regular pattern woven into it. As with the 'bliaut' which was derived =
from=20
'bliat' another type of silk weave, the cyclas, if it was really called =
that way=20
then, the name of the cloth could have become the name of a typical =
garment made=20
of it. It must have been a costly one, meant for the nobility, as they =
were=20
about the only ones able to afford it. I doubt this, =
though...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In my opinion (for what it's worth) the =
confusion=20
has originated with the costume historians of the last century who had a =
broad=20
time-canvas to fill. Here's&nbsp;how I think it went: they saw the =
similarity=20
between the medieval 'cyclat' and the greek 'cuclas', 'cuclaton' a kind =
of loose=20
wrap-like robe or mantle (Roman 'cucullus') and as they had seen =
sideless (and I=20
don't mean sleeveless, so with open sides) wraps in medieval miniatures, =
they=20
gave these the name 'cyclas'. They did not know then that this type of =
overthrow=20
garment was mostly called 'jupe', 'jupon', 'jupel' or 'houce', 'housse' =
etc.=20
i.o.w. a poncho kind of thing of a fairly narrow width. Si non e vero, e =
ben=20
trovato, huh?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Henk</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <HKFBMNIMLBKJBAAA@shared1-mail.whowhere.com> <380C6D53.16D9A561@thibault.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 10:33:17 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

> There was a long discussion about Phantom Menace and Tibetan/other asian
> derivations of the costumes, this past spring.  One of the fan sites has
> a great photo of a Tibetan woman, wearing the sort of outfit which must
> have directly influenced the "speaking before the Senate" outfit that
> Amidala wears.  (Horned hair, pendant cylinders, shoulders pads on
> steroids, etc.)

I was watching Style cable channel this past weekend and saw that some
designer has created a line of clothing inspired from the Phantom Menace.
The ladies hairstyles were great!  They looked so much like the queen's.
The styles also did a lot of fancy braiding.  I didn't catch the name of the
designer.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 09:18:12 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Shoes in History question
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-Poster: Barbara Maren Winkler <barbara@math.tu-berlin.de>

>- -Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
>
>A friend visted West Germany about ten years ago and brought back a
catalog of exhibt of
>shoes.  Nearly 100 pages of pictures of shoes from England, Germany and
Russia....
>
>Heft 6 Deutsches Schuhmuseum 1. Auflage 1980. Katalog der
Sonderausstellung,,Market in
>der Sahel 1979.

http://www.ledermuseum.de/

--
Barbara Maren Winkler                         barbara@math.tu-berlin.de

  
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: late 15th C Italian
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 08:16:08 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
>We have a high-persona event coming up.  It's geographically and
>temporally far from my usual persona.  For this event I'll be a late
>15th C Italian (Venice) fruitseller (preferably female).  Any >pointers to 
>appropriate clothing?
>
>Thanks,
>--Charlene

Dear Charlene,

This might be a bit too late-period, but there is a picture of an Italian 
woman selling fruit at <http://www.lepg.org/gallery.htm> (about mid-page), 
by Vincenzo Campi, 1580.  Or try the search engine at 
<http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.html> looking for Italian (1450 - 1500).  
There are several images you will have to go through but it's worth the 
effort.  Good luck!

Karie (AKA Allessandre)

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3.0.6.32.19991018152641.007abd30@pop.utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 17:20:12 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi,

Marc wrote:
> Here we are.  Matthew of Paris, in describing the wedding and coronation
> of Eleanor to Henry III in 1236 "...sericis vestimentis ornati, cicladibus
> auro textus circumdati, ..."  Well, hmm.  After checking with my Latin
> resources, this looks like *either* "silken ornate garments, encircled (in
> the manner of a cyclas) with golden made stuff" *or* "silken ornate
garments,
> encircled (in the manner of the Cyclades). with golden made stuff".  I'm
> thinking the former.

Could it be: "ornamented silken vestments (or garments) of gold woven
cyclat" or even shorter: "golden ornamented cyclat-silk garments"? 'Textus'
is not 'made' but means specifically 'woven', as the gold thread is woven
through the silk.

Henk


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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991018181427.JQEB22951.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: indian traveller 1515
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:45:08 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Re: H-COST: indian traveller 1515Thanks, R.L.

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 10:26:24 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 08:40:29 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>Take a look at this:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=182283185
>
>My question is, it is remotely "period" for any
>specific group of people in any specific time or is it
>just a "fantasy" makeup?  I'm going to buy it anyway,
>but I was curious... If I am going to spend that much
>money on something I would like to know about it...
>Thanks!
>Sarah

I am _not_ an expert, nor have very much information regarding this type of 
clothing.  I bow to anyone else's more expert opinions, whether they prove 
me wrong or no.  Having said that...

It looks completely fantastic to me (ie fantasy, not historical - although 
it is a lovely costume!).  The first giveaway is the bare midriff.  From my 
meager learning from our Middle Eastern dance troupes I have learned that 
very little was bared on Middle Eastern woman, except her forearms, and her 
face/hair.  As you travel further east, the more covered she is. The baring 
of the midriff occurred when dancers came west.

The colors of the outfit are more like chemical/metallic dyes (vs 
organic/vegetable dyes).  And the striped material is ok but I don't think 
it would have been used as ruffled trim on the outfit.  It doesn't look like 
the outfits some of our SCA Middle Eastern Dancers have done (the ones who 
are more expert).  It looks more like a Cabaret outfit.

Unfortunately, it is not a "traditional" Middle Eastern dance costume, but 
it is very pretty and I hope you get much use out of it.  (Perhaps for 
Halloween?)

Sincerely,

Karie (AKA Allessandre)

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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 08:39:44 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>Take a look at this:
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=182283185
>
>My question is, it is remotely "period" for any
>specific group of people in any specific time or is it
>just a "fantasy" makeup?  I'm going to buy it anyway,
>but I was curious... If I am going to spend that much
>money on something I would like to know about it...
>Thanks!
>Sarah

I am _not_ an expert, nor have very much information regarding this type of 
clothing.  I bow to anyone else's more expert opinions, whether they prove 
me wrong or no.  Having said that...

It looks completely fantastic to me (ie fantasy, not historical - although 
it is a lovely costume!).  The first giveaway is the bare midriff.  From my 
meager learning from our Middle Eastern dance troupes I have learned that 
very little was bared on Middle Eastern woman, except her forearms, and her 
face/hair.  As you travel further east, the more covered she is. The baring 
of the midriff occurred when dancers came west.

The colors of the outfit are more like chemical/metallic dyes (vs 
organic/vegetable dyes).  And the striped material is ok but I don't think 
it would have been used as ruffled trim on the outfit.  It doesn't look like 
the outfits some of our SCA Middle Eastern Dancers have done (the ones who 
are more expert).  It looks more like a Cabaret outfit.

Unfortunately, it is not a "traditional" Middle Eastern dance costume, but 
it is very pretty and I hope you get much use out of it.  (Perhaps for 
Halloween?)

Sincerely,

Karie (AKA Allessandre)

______________________________________________________
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 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 10:32:58 1999
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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
> 
> I LOVE the Buccaneers!! Tess of the D'Urbervilles had some Beautiful clothes in it as well. I've been watching the Masterpiece theatre version of Aristocrats (3 part series, part 3 on pbs next sunday night) and I'm not sure about how authentic they are, but the costumes are beautiful, and plenty of them to be seen.
Nice frocks my only criticism and that of my 1740's group was the use of
saque dresses in the first 2 episodes as they were seen far too
frequently despite it being a very new fashion which didn't really take
off until the 50's, and too few caps worn indoors and caps and hats worn
outdoors and lack of fichus oh and of course the soldiers uniforms in
the last episode which  hadn't been invented yet they being of the 1815
lifeguard variety not 1790's irish militia which they should have been.
but who cares about uniforms, which would also be my comment on Last of
The Mohicans by the way, Other than that they were pretty good and the
nice thing was they were seen in the same dresses on lots of occassions
meaning they had a proper sized (i.e not many frocks) wardrobe
> 
> -dawn--


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 10:34:46 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Membership Scholarship
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 11:49:09 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Please pass this message on to interested college students in the New York,
New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland and Washington, D.C. areas:

Costume Society of America's Region II is inviting students to apply for
their student membership competition.  The region will be giving away 15
memberships to our organization.  The application deadline is Nov. 15, 1999.
Students may be in the following fields of study: Costume History, Fashion
Design or Merchandising, Art History, History, Anthropology, Museum Studies,
Material Culture, and other related fields.

For more information, go to:
http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/Region2/2announcmt.htm or go to the CSA
main homepage and click on the regional webpages at
http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com

Good Luck,
Penny Ladnier
Webmaster, CSA


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 10:39:31 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 08:56:39 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

When I was a young teen, I created a costume from "Xanadu" complete with leg
warmers and roller skates!!


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------


-----Original Message-----
From: Penny Ladnier <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)


>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>You all, I love movies so here is part of my real list, (I tried not to
>repeat ones mentioned all ready).  I have been compiling my list for
awhile.
>
>--Somewhere in Time (it was on TV again last night), designer Jean-Pierre
>Dorléac.
>--The Great Gatsby, designer Theoni V. Aldredge.
>--Recent version of A Midsummer Nights Dream, designer Gabriella Pescucci.
>--The Great Ziegfeld (my favorite for historic and fantasy costumes),
>designer Adrian
>--Silverado, designer Kristi Zea
>--Recent version of Last of the Mohicans ( :) Albert Cat), designer Elsa
>Zamparelli
>--Can help but love the costumes in Monty Python and the Holy Grail,
>designer Hazel Pethig
>--Meet Me in St. Louis, designer Irene Sharaff
>--Lonesome Dove (yes, TV, it was too long for the big screen), designer Van
>Broughton Ramsey
>--Excalibur, designer Bob Ringwood
>--Forrest Gump, designer Joanna Johnston
>--Eve's Bayou, designer Karyn Wagner (II)
>--Austin Powers #I & #2, designer Deena Appel
>--Pleasantville, designer Judianna Makovsky
>--Amercian Graffiti, designer Aggie Guerard Rodgers
>--Can't think of the Name of the film but it was about an efficiency expert
>and he had about thirteen children.  The swimsuits were wonderful!
>--Music Man (was good for a musical), designer Dorothy Jeakins
>--Grease  (was good for a musical), designer Albert Wolsky
>--Now and Then, designer Deena Appel
>--Cross Creek, designer Joe I. Tompkins
>--Night Shift (1982 version), designer Jodie Lynn Tillen
>--Rasputin (HBO movie)
>--Lust for Life (story of Van Gogh), designer Walter Plunkett
>--Fanny and Alexander, designer Marik Vos-Lundh
>--Schindler's List, designer Anna B. Sheppard
>--Little Women, designer Colleen Atwood
>--Victor, Victoria (not sure how accurate, but loved the costumes),
designer
>Patricia Norris
>--Bonnie and Clyde, designer Theadora Van Runkle
>--The Sting, designer Edith Head
>--Lion Out of Africa
>
>
>Some movies that I love that had good costumes that provided representation
>of current fashion or what would become fashionable during the time:
>--The Philadelphia Story, designer Adrian
>--American Gigolo, designer Giorgio Armani (suits)
>--Saturday Night Fever, designer Patrizia von Brandenstein
>--Urban Cowboy (Boy, this was hard to admit that it was a fashion)
>--Xanadu (the mix of costumes, spoke of the transition in fashion at the
>time), designer Bobbie Mannix
>--Three Coins in a Fountain, designer Dorothy Jeakins
>--Woodstock, designer, The Crowd!
>--Love Story, designer Alice Manougan Martin & Pearl Somner
>--Annie Hall, designer Ralph Lauren & Ruth Morley
>--Wayne's World, (those jeans with the knees out), designer Pat Tonnema
>Hippie Musicals of the 1960s & 70s:
>--Jesus Christ Superstar (chorus), designer Yvonne Blake
>--Hair, designer Ann Roth
>--Godspell, designers Sherrie Sucher & Susan Tsu
>--The Breakfast Club (they are making a new one), designer Marilyn
>Vance-Straker
>--St. Elmo's Fire, designer Susan Becker
>
>My list goes on and on...
>
>I will be starting an email list soon on Movie Costumes.  I am just trying
>to come up with an identifical name for it.  I'll let you know when I get
it
>up.
>
>Later... Penny
>http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 10:41:08 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: silk stockings
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 08:58:28 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Me too, I'm interested!!!


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------


-----Original Message-----
From: David S. Mallinak <matchlck@erols.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 6:21 PM
Subject: H-COST: Re: silk stockings


>
>-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
>
>Susannah Eanes wrote:
>
>> I have access to the inventory of an old store that contains, among
>> other wonderful things, original late 18th - early 19th c. silk
>> stockings & corsets in their original boxes.  I don't know how they
>> have stood up to the decades of being stored away in an
>> unheated/uncooled store attic warehouse, but they sure look & feel
>> pretty good to me.  The owner is currently assessing these items for
>> sale either in lots or as one whole.  If anyone is interested in
>> finding out more, please e-mail me privately.
>
>I am just starting to clear my H-COST message when I say your offer.
>
>If it is not to late please add my name and address to those who are
>interested
>
>David S. Mallinak
>matchlck@erol.com
>
>

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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 12:10:42 -0400
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From: "Gaylin Walli" <gwalli@infoengine.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Japanese hakama patterns
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-Poster: "Gaylin Walli" <gwalli@infoengine.com>

I just recently (this weekend) completed the Folkwear pattern for
Japanese Hakama,  specifically trying to create kobakama (a short
version of hakama) for my husband to wear as part of a late 1500's
recreation of a Samurai in full regalia. I must say, this pattern is
not for a true novice. I work with complicated technical information
every day and the Folkwear pattern takes a little getting used to
because it is, after all, only measurements. I am not a rank novice,
but I am still a novice in many regards because of things I've not done.
I can read a pattern, I know a little bit about fitting, and I can sew
better than a straight line if my machine is actually functioning
properly. I still had trouble with this pattern.

Here are the problems that gave me the most trouble:

(1) The alphabetical scheme for measurement points worked well,
but the table included with the pattern for the most common
measurements was inadequate in two ways. First, not all the
measurement points were in the table. Some were instead placed
elsewhere in the pattern. Second, the instructions for doing your
own measurements were very hard to read and follow. Perhaps
this second point is my bias as a technical writer showing, but
I thought the information could have been better layed out to make
it easier to follow. Information in this section had a tendency to
run together.

(2) The pattern assumes you will be making the hakama with the
back support. Understandable, but I would have liked to seen the
pattern give options for making the hakama with just the belts and
not the back support. The pattern is, admittedly, made for modern
(mundane) use.

(3) The layouts assume your fabric will always be folded for the
cutting out. This is hard to explain because there's a point where
it doesn't matter. My husband's size (6'5") made it matter. In
order to have enough fabric to cut out the two halves of the
hakama (or in my case, kobakama), I needed to unfold the fabric to
its full width (60") and cut one piece out, moving down the fabric
to cut out the next piece. This isn't exactly that clear in the pattern
and the pictures belie the reality for most cases.
    If I'm reading the pattern correctly, unless your finished
measurement from hip to floor (or wherever you stop) is 30" or less,
you'll not be able to use the material folded in half the long way. The
pictures show the fabric folded through the measurement and cutting
out stage of construction. I made this mistake and now have a nice,
short pair of hakama or a pair of not quite long enough kobakama.
I'll be faking the bottom of the kobakama by inserting an extra wide
band at the bottom leg openings and that should cover my husband
enough that his shin guards will hide the bottom of the pants.

(4) While my husband isn't large around as one might think for his
height, the belt measurements for ties at the waist seemed short. To
their credit, making the bands was incredibly easy (which is nice,
because I've never made ties like this before) as long as you used
your iron religously.

(5) The pleating is....difficult at best to follow. Possible to follow if
you go word by word and follow what they have to say exactly. But
the pictures and the words don't seem to match, entirely, and that
makes it difficult to get the pleats in front to look good. Eventually,
I ended up trying not to pay attention to the pictures unless I had to.
I also pulled out a pair of professionally made hakama and examined
the pleats in those. I also watched the Seven Samurai and durn near
wore a hole in portions of the tape trying to get a better view of the
clothes to figure it out. Pleats are a new concept to me, especially
the kind in this pattern.

I'll certainly use the pattern again. And keep in mind my sewing
expertise (or lack thereof), but if my problems help anyone, then
I am glad to have shared it here.

Regards,

Gaylin
(SCA: Jasmine, Iasmin de Cordoba)
gwalli@infoengine.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 10:59:18 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 09:14:33 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Having travelled in those areas and in Bhutan and Nepal.... and I am also in
the process of going back... I find that it is not a problem of *being
clean* or of *dirty natives* but a problem of a diferent way of life where
people often oil their bodies in very cold weather and where they wear
things that are not washable.  They do not have the pre-occupation we do
with what *we* consider clean.  It is not possible for a person who has not
been there to imagine.
I do not blame the people who made the film for the way it was presented
because it was made for us as an audience.  The applies also to the film
*City of Joy* which I enjoyed thoroughly and saw just after I had returned
to the US from India... but I found it incredibly clean as well.
I have found in India, China and the border states that people bathe often
and are very particular about themselves to whatever extent they can be. But
their surroundings do not reflect this.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
>Date: Tue, Oct 19, 1999, 5:38 AM
>

>
>-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
>
>Of course Tibetans washed their clothes!  Clean clothes were held in high
regard and would have been entirely appropriate among the Llasa elite. If
you look at Heinrich Harrer's book of photos of pre-occupation Tibet,
everyone looks clean--real evidence that the notion of "dirty natives" is
much more stereotype than actual truth. 
>
>Mary
>---
>Visit my homepage:
>http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly
>
>On Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:08:46   R.L. Shep wrote:
>>
>>-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>>
>>I am afraid that the costuming in *7 Years in Tibet* put me off because
>>everything was so CLEAN.  They may be authentic in the ultimate sense but
>>not in the practical sense.
>>~!~ R.L.Shep
>>http://www.rlshep.com
>>
>>----------
>>>From: AlbertCat@aol.com
>>>To: h-costume@indra.com
>>>Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
>>>Date: Mon, Oct 18, 1999, 5:52 PM
>>>
>>
>>>
>>>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>>>
>>>In a message dated 10/18/1999 8:50:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>>>susanf@netwiz.net writes:
>>>
>>><< 
>>> Didn't anyone else like Kundun and 7 Years in Tibet for the
>>> costumes?? They were as authentic as possible and had real
>>> Tibetans to correct them when they weren't. It's a way of life
>>> that's lost -- it was nice to see it captured on film for a
>>> little while. 
>>>  >>
>>>I know...we're so occidental!
>>>No one's mentioned 
>>>Ran
>>>or
>>>The Last Emperor
>
>
>HotBot - Search smarter.
>http://www.hotbot.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 11:02:07 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 09:31:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>


Thanks Karie!

This is pretty much what I expected, but I figured I
would ask anyway...  Halloween, maybe... I do play
NERO ( a live action roleplaying game) and play a
gypsy in that, so it might be a good place to wear
it... fantasy gypsies are so flamboyant. ;-)  Either
way, I fell in love with it...

Thanks for the info!

Sarah

--- Karie Mitchell <allessandre@hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
> 
> >From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >Take a look at this:
> >
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=182283185
> >
> >My question is, it is remotely "period" for any
> >specific group of people in any specific time or is
> it
> >just a "fantasy" makeup?  I'm going to buy it
> anyway,
> >but I was curious... If I am going to spend that
> much
> >money on something I would like to know about it...
> >Thanks!
> >Sarah
> 
> I am _not_ an expert, nor have very much information
> regarding this type of 
> clothing.  I bow to anyone else's more expert
> opinions, whether they prove 
> me wrong or no.  Having said that...
> 
> It looks completely fantastic to me (ie fantasy, not
> historical - although 
> it is a lovely costume!).  The first giveaway is the
> bare midriff.  From my 
> meager learning from our Middle Eastern dance
> troupes I have learned that 
> very little was bared on Middle Eastern woman,
> except her forearms, and her 
> face/hair.  As you travel further east, the more
> covered she is. The baring 
> of the midriff occurred when dancers came west.
> 
> The colors of the outfit are more like
> chemical/metallic dyes (vs 
> organic/vegetable dyes).  And the striped material
> is ok but I don't think 
> it would have been used as ruffled trim on the
> outfit.  It doesn't look like 
> the outfits some of our SCA Middle Eastern Dancers
> have done (the ones who 
> are more expert).  It looks more like a Cabaret
> outfit.
> 
> Unfortunately, it is not a "traditional" Middle
> Eastern dance costume, but 
> it is very pretty and I hope you get much use out of
> it.  (Perhaps for 
> Halloween?)
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> Karie (AKA Allessandre)


=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 11:08:28 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I don't think Susannah is currently on the  list, but I seem to remember her
saying that the owner of the store contents had been contacted by Christie's
or one of the other big auction houses and was going to be putting the
contents up for auction.  
Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 11:14:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 11:39:42 -0500
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>

Good morning list,
I remember as a kid seeing an empty (modern) coke bottle above Hoss's head as he
was "dyeing" in the bunk house from  flu or snakebite or bad costuming.  I'm sure
we, as a historic costumer, are some of the best flaw finders and NO ONE likes to
watch programs with us.  At least I'm not as bad as my younger brother, he's a
professional videographer!  Master's degree and movie maker.  No one is that
obnoxious!!!!  But talented.
Costuming is like art, as in painting a scene.  What does everyone else think?  I
enjoy the fantasy clothing as much as the actuate period costumes. In our
vignettes I design the garments to fit the characters but also each total cast of
the scene.  I pushed a plum (gorgeous) silk on a girl because the emerald green
outfit on the other sister took over the visual affect under the lights.  The
plum was perfect but not a color  that I could find to be totally actuate.  It
was donated, 16 yards, the price was right.
Thanks,
Ninya




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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 12:33:38 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/19/1999 11:49:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dawn.wood1@virgin.net writes:

<< but who cares about uniforms, which would also be my comment on Last of
 The Mohicans by the way,  >>

The English uniforms on Mohicans came from paintings of the period & some of 
battles in the French Indian War. [I made Hayward's uniform but didn't 
pattern it. The coat had zero interfacings except for a bit of canvas at the 
top of the back pleats. James Acheson wanted it to "look & hang like just a 
piece of cloth"] There was much ado over blue or buff facings on the 
soldiers. The wool coats were thrown in the washing machine by the 
unbelievably incompetent Wardrobe Supervisor so they all are 3" shorter than 
originally planned. The French were done after James left. The horrible 
zigzag silver braid on Montcalm[sp] was there at the insistence of Michael 
Mann. It's source.....a children's book.
Michael also wanted navy blue stockings on the soldiers. 
The Indian's suffered too. Before the Make Up Supervisor quit because of Mr. 
Mann, the Indians were bright with color. They were painted with what for all 
the world looked like sulfur or red clay in bear fat. Had I been a colonial 
and one of these braves jumped out from behind a tree, I'da messed my 
breeches! Michael thought they looked "like clowns".
See Mr. Mann wanted to be Stanley Kubric and have his finger in all the 
department's pie. But he didn't do the research and insisted on foolish & 
incorrect whims being carried out. He did this with all departments. He cut 
down trees and brought them up to the 3rd floor shop so he could see what the 
colonials would look like in front of trees. He made us make a red, blue, 
yellow and green pannier gown each for Alice and Cora because he wouldn't 
know which color was right until they were on the set. I say, if you can't 
figure THAT out beforehand.....you have no business directing. If you can't 
decide....let an expert in the field do it for you.
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>See Mr. Mann wanted to be Stanley Kubric and have his finger in all the 
>department's pie. But he didn't do the research and insisted on foolish & 
>incorrect whims being carried out. He did this with all departments. He cut 
>down trees and brought them up to the 3rd floor shop so he could see what the 
>colonials would look like in front of trees. He made us make a red, blue, 
>yellow and green pannier gown each for Alice and Cora because he wouldn't 
>know which color was right until they were on the set

Oh...My...God.  I knew this guy was a bozo when I saw the film  (Mankiller?)
made from Red Dragon, the prequel to Silence of The Lambs,  There's a scene
in a police station where the background is an entire wall of sleek, classy
looking file cabinets...none of which are labeled.  "Let's see, I think 'Ax
Murderers' is somewhere near the beginning, right?"  


Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 12:23:45 1999
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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <QQhkyf11602.199910142118@wodc7mr3.ffx.ops.us.uu.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hair Shirt?
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 18:34:30 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

Re: Hair shirts

They were made of horse hair (mane or tail) & each one was knotted so that
there was a prickly spike digging into the skin of the wearer

Ho hum
Useless Info Inc.

Emma



----- Original Message -----
From: Jessica Wilbur <jessica@pop.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 1999 10:15 PM
Subject: H-COST: Hair Shirt?


>
> -Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
>
> Hello all,
>
> My mom asked if I knew what type of material hair shirts were made of in the Middle Ages.
> Her guess was some type of unrefined animal hair, and I took that one step further to
> guess maybe at a loosely spun wool. (A woolen as opposed to a worsted?) Does anyone
> out there know for sure, or have another theory? We're just curious.
>
> Thanks!
> --Jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 12:23:56 1999
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From: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.3.96.991014105537.22308D-100000@general1.asu.edu> <008301bf1674$65c09300$c2f4accf@e4c2n6> <3806267B.F67E240C@serv.net> <009601bf1696$808ea240$f826163f@pbc.adelphia.net> <3806616D.8788791@serv.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Front lacing bodices
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 18:36:04 +0100
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-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>

Women without servants had to have front lacing bodices - it's too difficult
to do up a back lacing bodice on  your own.


Useless Info Inc
Emma



----- Original Message -----
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 12:04 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Front lacing bodices


>
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
> > Granted the "wench" bodices aren't
> > accurate but many of the bodices in these paintings do lace in the front.
> > http://www.lepg.org/gallery.htm
> >
> > I think I am confused.  Aren't these "wench" bodices?  How does a "wench"
> > bodice differ from the ones shown in the paintings?
>
> Wandering off into opinion territory here.  This is my opinion.  The ladies in
> these pictures are ladies with respectable jobs.  They are not wenches.  These
> are not wench bodices.
>
> The wench bodices I am familiar with here in my neck of the woods (An
> Tir/Seattle WA) lace tightly so that the edges of the fabric meet.  The front
> edges of the fabric doesn't meet in those pictues.  And the in the More Family
> portrait those front edges don't touch either.  There is a good 5-6 inches of
> stomacher showing under the laces.  Wench bodices don't do this.  Many, many
> wench bodices here don't even cover the breasts but leave them hanging above or
> outside of the bodice front, only the chemise (underwear) covering them for
> modesty.  Not very modest.  Not what a respectable medieval woman would have
> worn.  Not in my opinion.  Ergo, wench.
>
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of An Tir
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 12:24:01 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000a01bf1a4a$88bf3e40$33aca0d1@j9g8x8>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 13:37:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

> When I was a young teen, I created a costume from "Xanadu" complete with
leg
> warmers and roller skates!!

My wedding gown was off the shoulders like the Xanadu dress.  But I was
married the year prior to the film.

This movie really showed the big transition that was occuring in fashion in
the late 70s.  The costumes were that the end of disco, retro forties,
glitter glam, and cowboy look, plus more.  I love to watch it for the
costumes and music.  I love Olivia's 40s hairstyle and the dancers' zoot
suits.  Presently, I have not seen many women wearing the 40s hairstyles
with the new retro 40s look (1990s version).  I wonder why?

The film was raked over the coals for the story.  I checked IMD on the cast
and crew for the film and not many of them have done anything to speak of,
after this film.  Its funny, almost all the songs from the film were hits.

Who cares if the story was bad.  The actors changed costumes frequently, so
it gives you something to look at.  Katie, my 8 y.o. and I love to pause the
movie and look at certain costumes worn by the extras.  Katie loves Grease,
Titanic, and Austin Powers for the extras costuming.  She will be watching a
film and pauses it, then she starts screaming, "Mom come look at this
outfit!"  She wants one of those plastic/vinyl disco dresses from Austin
Powers #1.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 12:25:31 1999
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From: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Medieval Horse and its Equipment for sale
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-Poster: "schuck@vci.net" <schuck@vci.net>

Hi all
Just a brief note to let you know that I have placed The Medieval Horse and Its Equipment up for bids on ebay. I bought it new with the other books, but don't need it as much as th others, since I have no horse!
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=184483855

jb

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 12:25:48 1999
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References: <199910181850.MAA19616@net.indra.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 10:40:06 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
>That means that unless better information turns up, it *could* be that
>Norris screwed it up.
>
>Marc


Marc, you are a wonder!

This brings up a question I was going to ask but forgot to:

Norris:  In my new Christmas Dover catalog, they are offering up two or
three Norris books, no titles of which I can remember.  Is Norris one of
the good witches or the bad witches?  Is he worth the price of the book?
I'm most interested in Elizabethan, Victorian and 1920-30's.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 12:29:01 1999
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From: "Design" <design@alincocostumes.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: <f-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: oriental dragon costume
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 12:39:32 -0600
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-Poster: "Design" <design@alincocostumes.com>

Does anyone know of a company or individual who sells or rents Oriental
Parade Dragons?  I'm looking for one that can be used on stage, not too big,
but still impressive.  Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

Kevin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 12:32:46 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 12:45:13 -0500 (CDT)
From: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
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-Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu


<"Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>>
>>"...sericis vestimentis ornati, cicladibus
>> auro textus circumdati, ..."
>>"silken ornate garments, encircled (in the manner of a 
>>cyclas) with golden made stuff" *or* "silken ornate 
>>garments, encircled (in the manner of the Cyclades). 
>with golden made stuff".
>Could it be: "ornamented silken vestments (or garments) 
>of gold woven cyclat" or even shorter: "golden 
>ornamented cyclat-silk garments"?

Only if I rearranged all the words and took out the 
comma in the original sentance.  I'll have to check with 
people who are better at Latin than I am to see if 
"-dibus" can be made to mean something like that.

At best, it might mean "silken ornate garments, with 
golden made stuff in the manner of cyclas" 

Personally, I have nothing against that definition, mind 
you.  I'm just not sure the words match it.  (BTW, I 
have a friend who is attempting to proove that "blaut" 
was not a cut of garment, but similarly, simply made 
from "bliaut" (a kind of silk).  If you have any 
suggestions of texts I might pass along to her, I'd 
appreciate it)

>'Textus' is not 'made' but means specifically 'woven', 
>as the gold thread is woven through the silk.

I don't know, I think that "golden made stuff" is a 
perfectly acceptable way to translate that, and neatly 
conveys the general obscurity of terms presented into 
English.  For the record, "textus" means considerably 
more than just "woven".

Cassell's Latin Dictionary:
"Textus  _a web_; hence _texture_, _structure_: TRANSF. 
of speach or writing, _mode of putting together_, 
_assembly_"

Oxford Latin Dictionary:
 "1. Pattern or style of weaving; (concr) a woven 
fabric. b. (method of) plaiting or interlacing; (concr.) 
a piece of plaited work.
2.  A method of joining or fitting together, make-up, 
structure (specifically in Epicurian philosophy) atomic 
conformation  b. the point at wich the parts of a 
structure fit together.
3.  The fabric made by joining the words together, the 
body of a passage."

In any case, fabric that is woven through with gold, 
interlaced with gold, attached to the body of the 
garment with gold, or woven from nothing but golden 
threads are all "golden-made stuff".

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 12:45:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 13:02:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: bodice lacing
In-Reply-To: <380BF0FE.E8271F1B@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> > I've seen many posts about gap between the laces--both front and back--and am
> > wondering how one keeps the corset from showing between the laces.
> 
> The gap referred to is the one between the sides of the corset, not both the
> corset and bodice.  The reason you want a gap in the corset is to account for
> variations in weight/water retention.  The bodice shouldn't have a gap- it should
> close completely.

Whoops, wait.....if your corset is going to vary in size as you do, how do
you get your bodice to close completely every time without overlapping
sometimes?  Or do you just wear different dresses on different days of the
month?  (not a serious suggestion, though it would be amusing...)
 
mildly confused,
Emma 

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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 00:27:31 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
In-Reply-To: <008f01bf19c9$0887c660$263daccf@e4c2n6>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>--Can't think of the Name of the film but it was about an efficiency
>expert and he had about thirteen children.  The swimsuits were wonderful!

I believe you mean "Cheaper by the dozen".  I love that movie - it's such a
fabulous story.  ;)

>--The Breakfast Club (they are making a new one), designer Marilyn
>Vance-Straker

Ack!  You can't mean it?!  Oooo, how could they?  That movie really brings
back high school for me...

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 13:15:18 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 11:31:07 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> He cut
> down trees and brought them up to the 3rd floor shop so he could see what the
> colonials would look like in front of trees.

This is GROSS!  What a jerk.  Too bad the actors were too laid up to walk to the
trees.

> He made us make a red, blue,
> yellow and green pannier gown each for Alice and Cora because he wouldn't
> know which color was right until they were on the set. I say, if you can't
> figure THAT out beforehand.....you have no business directing. If you can't
> decide....let an expert in the field do it for you.

What a schmoo.  In the end though, I *love* the movie.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 13:28:38 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Front lacing bodices
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 06:36 PM 10/19/1999 +0100, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "emma smith" <black.smith@virgin.net>
>
>Women without servants had to have front lacing bodices - it's too difficult
>to do up a back lacing bodice on  your own.
>
I've never really bought this story.  First of all, almost no one lived
alone:  there was always a sister, husband, aunt, fellow servant, etc
around.  I'm old enough to remember the dresses of the late 50's and early
60's, which were usually fitted and zipped up the back.  They were near
impossible to get into by one's self, at a time when very few people had
servants.

As for the question of the gap between lacings, and how one keeps one's
undergarments from showing, I and most of the costumers I know always
include a placket flap under the lacing.  Yes, they're supposed to lace edge
to edge, but the edges will tend to gap with movement.  Not to mention that
for most women, there are those days when one just doesn't want to, or
can't, lace quite as tightly.  Having a matching material under the laces
makes this more comfortable and attractive.  

Margo



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 13:37:04 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Cabaret (I bought six sets of false eyelashes and searched in vain for green
nail polish)

Auntie Mame!  My parents saw it the night they conceived my sister, and
believe me, it shows.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 13:38:31 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 14:01:52 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Norris (was cyclas sources (Terminology))
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>>
>Norris:  In my new Christmas Dover catalog, they are offering up two or
>three Norris books, no titles of which I can remember.  Is Norris one of
>the good witches or the bad witches?  Is he worth the price of the book?
>I'm most interested in Elizabethan, Victorian and 1920-30's.

Some people say one thing, others say other things.  I would suggest that,
like using him is sort of like cooking in lead pots.  You can do it, and it
probably won't hurt you any, but if you aren't very, very careful, things 
could get ugly.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 13:50:10 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Gaylin,
We had a real pair to go by and my husband put ALL the points in his
spread sheet.  That must be why our volunteers didn't have your
problems.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: bodice lacing
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> Whoops, wait.....if your corset is going to vary in size as you do, how do
> you get your bodice to close completely every time without overlapping
> sometimes?  Or do you just wear different dresses on different days of the
> month?  (not a serious suggestion, though it would be amusing...)

It is a problem...I like hooks and eyes for my bodices, and during certain
days of the month they just ain't gonna fit unless I'm willing to lace my 
corset extra tightly.  For upper-class garments, that may be what they
did. It's a wonderful incentive not to gain weight.

I do wear a petticoat bodies ( a petticoat with a sleeveless bodice
attached) or a kirtle (undergown) beneath most of my outer gowns, doublets
& skirts.  That way, when my gown lacings don't quite match, you see
nice-looking fabric beneath instead of corset lacings.

Lacing is, of course, the most convenient size-adjuster for gowns.
If your gown laces closed in the front, you can hide any gaps or overlaps
with a stomacher pinned over the top.  You can also have it lace at each
side back or at the center back, where gaps aren't as noticeable. Or you
can have the front edges of the gown several inches apart, and use the
lacing as a decorative accent.

When I lose weight as opposed to gaining it, I usually just pinch the
excess at the side or side back of a gown and stitch it to fit.

Drea

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From: "Kels" <smadsen@primenet.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re:   h-costume-digest V4 #722
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 12:15:05 -0700
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-Poster: "Kels" <smadsen@primenet.com>



><< but who cares about uniforms, which would also be my comment on Last of
> The Mohicans by the way,  >>
>
>The English uniforms on Mohicans came from paintings of the period & some
of
>battles in the French Indian War. [I made Hayward's uniform but didn't
>pattern it. The coat had zero interfacings except for a bit of canvas at
the
>top of the back pleats. James Acheson wanted it to "look & hang like just a
>piece of cloth"] There was much ado over blue or buff facings on the
>soldiers. The wool coats were thrown in the washing machine by the
>unbelievably incompetent Wardrobe Supervisor so they all are 3" shorter
than
>originally planned. The French were done after James left. The horrible
>zigzag silver braid on Montcalm[sp] was there at the insistence of Michael
>Mann. It's source.....a children's book.

Well, the book was =awful=.  For a scathing review of the book, complete
with all of the mistakes pointed out, see the one done by Mark Twain.  He
hated the book and considered it an insult to intelligent readers.

Kels

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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 15:25:38 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: bodice lacing
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 10/19/99 2:21:33 PM Central Daylight Time, aleed@dnaco.net 
writes:

> I do wear a petticoat bodies ( a petticoat with a sleeveless bodice
>  attached) or a kirtle (undergown) beneath most of my outer gowns, doublets
>  & skirts.

If you please, when is/was it appropriate and common for a woman to wear a 
doublet?

DaniG
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Hoss
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<<  I'm sure
 we, as a historic costumer, are some of the best flaw finders and NO ONE 
likes to
 watch programs with us.  >>

It must be as bad as watching any movie with an air plane in it with my 
ex-pilot husband!  

Nancy
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com
>
><<  I'm sure
> we, as a historic costumer, are some of the best flaw finders and NO ONE
>likes to
> watch programs with us.  >>
>
>It must be as bad as watching any movie with an air plane in it with my
>ex-pilot husband!
>
>Nancy

Or ER with a nurse!  Done that, never again!!

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 14:26:47 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 15:43:16 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: bodice lacing
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>If you please, when is/was it appropriate and common for a woman to wear a 
>doublet?

Certainly.  The lower classes wore the fashions of their "betters" but,
they were just made out of lower grades of fabric.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 15:00:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:12:24 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Quasi-stupid dye question
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

Do mixed-fiber fabrics dye evenly?  I'm thinking of getting a batch of the 
silk-rayon devore/etched velvet from Dharma Trading and as I'm trying to 
figure out how much I want/need this question popped into my head.  I know 
there might be an appearance of different shades due to the nap on the 
velvet, but does the silk ground match the rayon pile after dying?  Am I just 
being silly?  Or have I finally found my reason to go buy lots of the lovely 
velvet at G Street?

--Jen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 15:02:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 15:06:14 -0700
From: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>

Greetings,
    Here is what I have learned in my time as a Middle Eastern dancer within
the SCA. Bare midriffs are absolutely taboo. The stomach is considered the
seat of the next generation and is therefore holy. It is still a crime in
Egypt today for which a woman can be put to death!!! Hence the cabaret
dancers use of the fishnet body stockings, not technically a bare tummy!!!
Modesty was a very important virtue and most (not all) dancing was done in
the harem, by women for women.
    The coin jewelry so common to the tradition was earned when a woman
danced on the street to earn her dowry. Once she had it she never danced in
public again.
    These are only what I have gleaned in my time as a dancer. If anyone has
any further or conflicting information I would love to hear about it. I'll
stop learning when they cover over with sod.

Maleah
maleah@swbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Karie Mitchell <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers


>
> -Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
>
> >From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
> >Take a look at this:
> >
> >http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=182283185
> >
> >My question is, it is remotely "period" for any
> >specific group of people in any specific time or is it
> >just a "fantasy" makeup?  I'm going to buy it anyway,
> >but I was curious... If I am going to spend that much
> >money on something I would like to know about it...
> >Thanks!
> >Sarah
>
> I am _not_ an expert, nor have very much information regarding this type
of
> clothing.  I bow to anyone else's more expert opinions, whether they prove
> me wrong or no.  Having said that...
>
> It looks completely fantastic to me (ie fantasy, not historical - although
> it is a lovely costume!).  The first giveaway is the bare midriff.  From
my
> meager learning from our Middle Eastern dance troupes I have learned that
> very little was bared on Middle Eastern woman, except her forearms, and
her
> face/hair.  As you travel further east, the more covered she is. The
baring
> of the midriff occurred when dancers came west.
>
> The colors of the outfit are more like chemical/metallic dyes (vs
> organic/vegetable dyes).  And the striped material is ok but I don't think
> it would have been used as ruffled trim on the outfit.  It doesn't look
like
> the outfits some of our SCA Middle Eastern Dancers have done (the ones who
> are more expert).  It looks more like a Cabaret outfit.
>
> Unfortunately, it is not a "traditional" Middle Eastern dance costume, but
> it is very pretty and I hope you get much use out of it.  (Perhaps for
> Halloween?)
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Karie (AKA Allessandre)
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 15:23:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:38:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Front lacing bodices
In-Reply-To: <199910191836.LAA29656@apollo.directcon.net>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> >
> >Women without servants had to have front lacing bodices - it's too difficult
> >to do up a back lacing bodice on  your own.

Although it's true that, in the 16th century, lower class bodices appear
to have fastened up the front more frequently than they did the back, I
don't think it's impossible to lace up a back-laced corset or bodice on
one's own.  I have back-lacing gowns, corsets & bodices that I lace
loosely, pull over my head, and pull the lace tight on.  

Drea

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Subject: Re: H-COST: bodice lacing
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> If you please, when is/was it appropriate and common for a woman to wear a 
> doublet?

In the 1580s and onward, women's high-necked bodices could imitate men's
doublets in form & cut.  They were worn with skirt, but were quite similar
to men's doublets in all other respects.

 > 
> DaniG
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 16:22:10 1999
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Haven't seen "Velvet Goldmine" yet. "I didn't think the costumes in "Wings of 
the Dove" were exaggerated (I drooled a lot), nor in "Michael Collins" but 
they were both on 20th century topics. Maybe she just does it to earlier 
periods. I thought the costumes from "Orlando" were wonderful, but not 
particularly realistic, but then neither was the story, so I don't offer a 
criticism about that film. But in movies that are supposed to be realistic 
("Rob Roy"), as opposed to fantastic ("Interview" or "Orlando"), I would like 
to see more realistic, accurate costumes. She obviously knows her stuff. I'd 
just like her to prove it occasionally.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 16:39:38 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

In costume terminology and really strange misinterpretations of the clothing 
itself, one must look to Violette-le-Duc in the 1800s (as a clothing 
historian, he was a terrific architect). Earlier 20th century costume 
historians (possibly Norris, since I see some of V-l-D's weird drawings 
copied in his books) continued the practices and terminology begun by him. 
Only in the latter part of the 20th century did we get clothing historians 
who did ORIGINAL research. As much as I like Norris and appreciate him for 
being one of the first clothing historians who wasn't totally off the wall, 
he was a product of his age. If you want a real laugh, read Doris Lester 
(cne't remember the title).

Maybe we should look at Violette-le-Duc's dictionary of medieval clothing (in 
French of course) as a possible source of misinformation and dubious 
terminology.

Henk, what's your take on this?

Kathleen Norvell
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 18:44:26 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

In a message dated 10/19/99 11:53:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< 
 Cabaret (I bought six sets of false eyelashes and searched in vain for green
 nail polish)
  >>
Like Margo I'm a Fosse Fan.  I also love the costumes in Sweet Charity. Now 
here is my list:
Any Merchant Ivory Film (especially Room With A View}
Sabrina
GWTW
Now Voyager
Dangerous Liaisons
Westward the Women (The Tablecloth sequence at the end slays me!}
Silk Stockings (I love the hidden clothes dance number}
Funny Face
The Three Musketeers
Dangerous Beauty
Elizabeth
Excalibur ( I know it's bull but I still have a jones for that mesh wedding 
veil}
Flesh & Blood
Plus a gajillion more.  I just had to chime in on this.  
Cheers!!
Pasha
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Hoss
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 19 Oct 1999, Lynn Downward wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
> 
> >-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com
> >
> ><<  I'm sure
> > we, as a historic costumer, are some of the best flaw finders and NO ONE
> >likes to
> > watch programs with us.  >>
> >
> >It must be as bad as watching any movie with an air plane in it with my
> >ex-pilot husband!
> >
> >Nancy
> 
> Or ER with a nurse!  Done that, never again!!
> 
These are nothing at all compared to watching a film with a physicist!
I drive my husband crazy *grin*
Especially SF films....:-)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
In-Reply-To: <0FJV00E032ND30@vega.utulsa.edu>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 19 Oct 1999 marc-carlson@utulsa.edu wrote:

> 
> -Poster: marc-carlson@utulsa.edu
> 
> 
> <"Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>>
> >>"...sericis vestimentis ornati, cicladibus
> >> auro textus circumdati, ..."
> >>"silken ornate garments, encircled (in the manner of a 
> >>cyclas) with golden made stuff" *or* "silken ornate 
> >>garments, encircled (in the manner of the Cyclades). 
> >with golden made stuff".
> >Could it be: "ornamented silken vestments (or garments) 
> >of gold woven cyclat" or even shorter: "golden 
> >ornamented cyclat-silk garments"?
> 
> Only if I rearranged all the words and took out the 
> comma in the original sentance.  I'll have to check with 
> people who are better at Latin than I am to see if 
> "-dibus" can be made to mean something like that.

Well you can with Latin. Since the inflectional endings are supposed to
convey the meaning you more or less write the words any way round you
like. However, mediaeval Latin is not classical Latin by any stretch of
the imagination so YMMV (as the comma probably indicates).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
Message-Id: <940374338.16190.134@excite.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:05:38 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> I LOVE the Buccaneers!! Tess of the D'Urbervilles had some Beautiful
clothes in it as well. I've been watching the Masterpiece theatre version of
Aristocrats (3 part series, part 3 on pbs next sunday night) and I'm not
sure about how authentic they are, but the costumes are beautiful, and
plenty of them to be seen.

I've been avidly watching the Aristocrats as well, and taking note of all
the details. A question, though, for those who are also watching this. Is
the women's hair correct? The one curl falling down Sara's neckline and the
short, close curls on (I forget her name) the oldest daughter from the
sister (brain gaffed on her name, too, darn it!) in Ireland seem to bother
me a bit, but I can't put my finger on why. Any thoughts? 

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Terminology: CYCLAS
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:16:09 -0700
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>>>Here we are.  Matthew of Paris, in describing the wedding and coronation
>>>of Eleanor to Henry III in 1236 "...sericis vestimentis ornati,
cicladibus
>>>auro textus circumdati, ..."  Well, hmm.  After checking with my Latin
>>>resources, this looks like *either* "silken ornate garments, encircled
(in
>>>the manner of a cyclas) with golden made stuff" *or* "silken ornate
>>>garments,
>>>encircled (in the manner of the Cyclades). with golden made stuff".  I'm
>>>thinking the former.
>>>
>>>That means that unless better information turns up, it *could* be that
>>>Norris screwed it up.

One possible source of the confusion in terminology...

Robert Estienne's 1552 _Dictionarium Latinogallicum_

"cyclas"
"Cyclas, cycladis, pen. corr. foe. gen. Iuuenal. Un grand manteau delié à
usage de femme, trainant. Robbe à femme ronde par bas, et sans queue. "

Rough translation of the 16th c French:  A large, untied/unbelted coat
typically used by women, trained. Woman's dress lower portion round and
without a train.

'Fraid I missed the original question & the Norris quotation, so I dont know
what timeframe & locale the list poster was discussing.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Watching films with experts (was Re: H-COST: Re: Hoss)
Message-Id: <940374919.20229.512@excite.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:15:19 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> ><<  I'm sure
> > we, as a historic costumer, are some of the best flaw finders and NO
ONE
> >likes to
> > watch programs with us.  >>
> >
> >It must be as bad as watching any movie with an air plane in it with my
> >ex-pilot husband!
> >
> >Nancy
> 
> Or ER with a nurse!  Done that, never again!!

As a dyed-in-the-cowhide farm girl from Kansas, I have a hard time watching
westerns. Some of the stuff in the background is pretty jarring, like the
wrong kind of flora for the area, or blooming plants in the dead of winter.
Bonnet styles are a sticking point as well (to bring this back to the list's
purpose.) Seems some directors figure a bonnet is a bonnet is a bonnet, and
any old thing will do. NOT!
One old film had a cattle stampede, which did happen from time to time, but
these cattle were not on the trail, they were in a pen. And there was no
lightening strike, rattlesnake or anything else to set them off. They just
started running. Which cattle do NOT do, they are fairly placid beasts. And
lazy. Well, if you were bred for rapid weight gain and had all the food you
needed right there handy, would you want to go jogging on a whim?

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 18:13:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 19:26:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Watching films with experts (was Re: H-COST: Re: Hoss)
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 10/19/99 11:23:21 PM !!!First Boot!!!, 
stitchwitch@excite.com writes:

<< Well, if you were bred for rapid weight gain and had all the food you
 needed right there handy, would you want to go jogging on a whim?
 
 Kate >>


Not if I can help it.

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 18:18:20 1999
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 <Pine.OSF.3.96.991020083111.24508B-100000@mercury.physics.adelaide.edu.au>
References: <v04011707b43278cf3f73@[172.19.1.106]>
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:32:47 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
>
>On Tue, 19 Oct 1999, Lynn Downward wrote:
>
>>
>> -Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
>>
>> >-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com
>> >
>> ><<  I'm sure
>> > we, as a historic costumer, are some of the best flaw finders and NO ONE
>> >likes to
>> > watch programs with us.  >>
>> >
>> >It must be as bad as watching any movie with an air plane in it with my
>> >ex-pilot husband!
>> >
>> >Nancy
>>
>> Or ER with a nurse!  Done that, never again!!
>>
>These are nothing at all compared to watching a film with a physicist!
>I drive my husband crazy *grin*
>Especially SF films....:-)
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care,
>Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
>and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
>friendly substance.


You win, Claire.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 18:34:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:50:34 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I have seen belly dancers in Egypt.  Yes they are covered up.  And they are
usually heavier than we would think a belly dancer would be.  I remember
reading an Egyptian novelist who was talking about a woman walking down  the
street and praising her buttocks and how big they were and the fact that
they rolled when she walked.
I have also seen belly dancers in strickter muslim countries and they are
even more covered up.
In fact neither in Egypt nor in other countries have I ever seen a woman
wear a body stocking....they really are covered.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
>Date: Tue, Oct 19, 1999, 3:06 PM
>

>
>-Poster: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>
>
>Greetings,
>    Here is what I have learned in my time as a Middle Eastern dancer
within
>the SCA. Bare midriffs are absolutely taboo. The stomach is considered the
>seat of the next generation and is therefore holy. It is still a crime in
>Egypt today for which a woman can be put to death!!! Hence the cabaret
>dancers use of the fishnet body stockings, not technically a bare tummy!!!
>Modesty was a very important virtue and most (not all) dancing was done in
>the harem, by women for women.
>    The coin jewelry so common to the tradition was earned when a woman
>danced on the street to earn her dowry. Once she had it she never danced in
>public again.
>    These are only what I have gleaned in my time as a dancer. If anyone
has
>any further or conflicting information I would love to hear about it. I'll
>stop learning when they cover over with sod.
>
>Maleah
>maleah@swbell.net
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Karie Mitchell <allessandre@hotmail.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 8:39 AM
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
>
>
>>
>> -Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
>>
>> >From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
>> >Take a look at this:
>> >
>> >http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=182283185
>> >
>> >My question is, it is remotely "period" for any
>> >specific group of people in any specific time or is it
>> >just a "fantasy" makeup?  I'm going to buy it anyway,
>> >but I was curious... If I am going to spend that much
>> >money on something I would like to know about it...
>> >Thanks!
>> >Sarah
>>
>> I am _not_ an expert, nor have very much information regarding this type
>of
>> clothing.  I bow to anyone else's more expert opinions, whether they
prove
>> me wrong or no.  Having said that...
>>
>> It looks completely fantastic to me (ie fantasy, not historical -
although
>> it is a lovely costume!).  The first giveaway is the bare midriff.  From
>my
>> meager learning from our Middle Eastern dance troupes I have learned that
>> very little was bared on Middle Eastern woman, except her forearms, and
>her
>> face/hair.  As you travel further east, the more covered she is. The
>baring
>> of the midriff occurred when dancers came west.
>>
>> The colors of the outfit are more like chemical/metallic dyes (vs
>> organic/vegetable dyes).  And the striped material is ok but I don't
think
>> it would have been used as ruffled trim on the outfit.  It doesn't look
>like
>> the outfits some of our SCA Middle Eastern Dancers have done (the ones
who
>> are more expert).  It looks more like a Cabaret outfit.
>>
>> Unfortunately, it is not a "traditional" Middle Eastern dance costume,
but
>> it is very pretty and I hope you get much use out of it.  (Perhaps for
>> Halloween?)
>>
>> Sincerely,
>>
>> Karie (AKA Allessandre)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 18:45:49 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.264d8af8.253e583a@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Watching films with experts (was Re: H-COST: Re: Hoss)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 17:55:19 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>



  Brings to mind the lovely orange Brucellosis tag I once saw on the ear
of a calf in a "Little House" episode.........<G>

  Liadain

> << Well, if you were bred for rapid weight gain and had all the food you
>  needed right there handy, would you want to go jogging on a whim?
>  
>  Kate >>
> 
> 
> Not if I can help it.
> 
> Chas
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 19:01:20 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costume & Film list
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 20:17:28 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I started a new list called FilmCostumes, you may join the list by going to
www.onelist.com, and search with the keyword FilmCostumes (combined the two
words).  You may discussed all types of costumes in film from historic to
sci-fi.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 19:43:02 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 20:56:09 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

I jst thought of 2 more:
Oscar & Lucina....brilliant!

The French Lt.'s Woman.....very wonderful late 1860s.... aniline plaids & 
Merrill Streep looking like a Homer painting near the end. Also interesting 
because you see the actors in their 20th century incarnations as well.
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Subject: Re: Watching films with experts (was Re: H-COST: Re: Hoss)
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/19/1999 7:58:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
hardcorps@vcn.com writes:

<<  Brings to mind the lovely orange Brucellosis tag I once saw on the ear
 of a calf in a "Little House" episode.........<G>
  >>

How about the episode where ther building a spare room....with milled  salt 
treated lumber and stud walls centered at 18" [16?"].
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 19:55:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 21:09:22 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

StitchWitch wrote:
> westerns. Some of the stuff in the background is pretty jarring, like the
> wrong kind of flora for the area,

Ya, after 7 years of living in California, I think I can spot a "it's
supposed to be Italy but we're filming in Northern California because
it's cheaper" situation.

But to bring this back to costumes, I really enjoy seeing historical
costumes pop up in science fiction.

There was a colony of klingons that showed up in roughly 1300s garb on
Star Trek (the one where they did an extended holodec simulation to let
them "escape" to another safe haven), and another which seemed to have
peasant-1800s garb (the prot-vulcans).  Plenty of others; those are the
ones that spring to mind.

cv
--
"Oh bother," said the Borg, "We've assimilated Pooh."     (source
unknown, alas)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 20:12:57 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 18:22:43 -0700
From: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Quasi-stupid dye question
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-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>

AnnoraK@aol.com wrote:

> -Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com
>
> Do mixed-fiber fabrics dye evenly?  I'm thinking of getting a batch of
> the
> silk-rayon devore/etched velvet from Dharma Trading and as I'm trying
> to
> figure out how much I want/need this question popped into my head.  I
> know
> there might be an appearance of different shades due to the nap on the
>
> velvet, but does the silk ground match the rayon pile after dying?  Am
> I just
> being silly?  Or have I finally found my reason to go buy lots of the
> lovely
> velvet at G Street?

Dear Jen,

This isn't a stupid question at all!  And the answer is that it depends
on the fibers and the dye that you use.  In the instance of your
proposed fabric, all I can say is that silk takes dye very, very well.
I am not as sure about rayon but I seem to remember that it takes pretty
well.  And I have had good success with Rit dye on just about
everything.  There are other commercial "cold" dyes in some fabric
stores but I don't think that they work very well.

It seems to me that unless you are trying to *cover up* a color you
shouldn't have too much of a problem with these fabrics dyeing
similarly.  If you are merely darkening a color or trying to blend
colors (i.e. adding blue to an already red fabric to get purple) it
should work out fine.  But, as always, you should do a test swatch to
see what you will get and if you will like it afterwards.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Diana :~>

--

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
"There are too many mediocre things in life to deal with.....Love
shouldn't be one
 of them."
--Ione Skye in "Dream for an Insomniac"


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 20:25:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 21:39:32 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: silk stockings
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I don't think Susannah is currently on the list, but I seem to remember her
saying that the owner of the store contents had been contacted by Christie's
or one of the other big auction houses and was going to be putting the
contents up for auction.  
And also, when she contacted me directly (several months ago) she told me 
there weren't any silk stockings after all.  So don't get your hopes up.
Ann Wass 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 20:31:11 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Quasi-stupid dye question
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Different fibers do take dyes differently.  This is the principle of 
CROSS-DYING, where two (or more) different types of fibers take the dye 
differently and give a multicolored result.  But silk and rayon should take 
the dye similarly, even though silk is protein and rayon is cellulose.  Silk 
takes dyes beautifully, and, because of its amorphous structure, rayon does 
too.  But you probably want to try a sample first.  But, as you pointed our, 
voided velvet is going to have some color shading anyway because of the 
pile/ground differences.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 21:04:46 1999
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From: Ioana Timariu <ioana@yucc.yorku.ca>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Bellydance 
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-Poster: Ioana Timariu <ioana@yucc.yorku.ca>


Now that's a subject close to my heart... :) 

I have a question: I'm learning about the history and the costume of
dancers from Middle East from a book by Wendy Bunoventura, "Serpent of
the Nile". Does anybody know how historically accurate she is? What other
books do you recommend on this subject?


-ioana



> 
> From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:50:34 -0700
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
> 
> - -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
> 
> I have seen belly dancers in Egypt.  Yes they are covered up.  And they are
> usually heavier than we would think a belly dancer would be.  I remember
> reading an Egyptian novelist who was talking about a woman walking down  the
> street and praising her buttocks and how big they were and the fact that
> they rolled when she walked.
> I have also seen belly dancers in strickter muslim countries and they are
> even more covered up.
> In fact neither in Egypt nor in other countries have I ever seen a woman
> wear a body stocking....they really are covered.
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 22:03:00 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 20:06:03 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:

> -Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
>
> > > I've seen many posts about gap between the laces--both front and back--and am
> > > wondering how one keeps the corset from showing between the laces.
> >
> > The gap referred to is the one between the sides of the corset, not both the
> > corset and bodice.  The reason you want a gap in the corset is to account for
> > variations in weight/water retention.  The bodice shouldn't have a gap- it should
> > close completely.
>
> Whoops, wait.....if your corset is going to vary in size as you do, how do
> you get your bodice to close completely every time without overlapping
> sometimes?  Or do you just wear different dresses on different days of the
> month?  (not a serious suggestion, though it would be amusing...)

Well, different costumes are always a solution ;-) but I'd recommend having a placket
in the bodice to account for any minor swelling.  If we're talking major weight gain,
make new costumes.

Carolyn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 22:53:13 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: hoss
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-Poster: IroadkillI@aol.com

In a message dated 10/19/1999 5:36:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com writes:

<< I'm sure we, as a historic costumer, are some of the best flaw finders and 
NO ONE likes to watch programs with us.  >>
 

I don't know about that, when Gandhi came out I had the chance to watch it 
with the Dean of International University in the Philippines who was from 
that part of India and his comments and asides during the movie were great.  

Currently I have a couple of costuming friends that I try to see every 
historical movie with.  The only drawback is the reeltime critiques result in 
laughter in unexpected places in the movie, so maybe they're actually 
hysterical rather than historical movies.

Paul
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 23:38:25 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 23:51:36 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: film costumes (well, TV, but...)
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

This is TV, but it's historical, so....

What about one of my favorite shows, Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman?

I realize that her attitudes would not have been the norm at that time
period, but what about the clothes?  Women's in particular?  As far as I
could tell, they at least were all somewhat corsetted.  You do get to see
the underwear in some episodes.

There was one two-parter about midway thru the series run when the family
went to Washington DC to get a pardon or something for Sully.  In the
course of the two episodes, there were THREE White House balls - talk about
acres of hoopskirts!

I'm interested in the opinions of those who know - as opposed to yours
truly who mostly does fantasy stuff.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 23:38:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 23:55:21 -0700
From: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>

Glad to hear from someone who's seen first hand. The info I have came from
several videos taken by my teacher while at a cabaret in Cairo. I definitely
saw body stockings but that has been at least 10-12 years ago and from what
my Lebanese friends tell me things have gotten much more conservative all
over the region since then.
    When I dance in the SCA if you can see more than my forearms and head,
then you've crawled in my clothes with me. Down Chas. now is not the time to
check my seams.

Maleah
----- Original Message -----
From: R.L. Shep <rlshep@home.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers


>
> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
> I have seen belly dancers in Egypt.  Yes they are covered up.  And they
are
> usually heavier than we would think a belly dancer would be.  I remember
> reading an Egyptian novelist who was talking about a woman walking down
the
> street and praising her buttocks and how big they were and the fact that
> they rolled when she walked.
> I have also seen belly dancers in strickter muslim countries and they are
> even more covered up.
> In fact neither in Egypt nor in other countries have I ever seen a woman
> wear a body stocking....they really are covered.
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 23:42:29 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 00:56:52 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 10/20/99 4:54:36 AM !!!First Boot!!!, maleah@swbell.net 
writes:

<< Glad to hear from someone who's seen first hand. The info I have came from
 several videos taken by my teacher while at a cabaret in Cairo. I definitely
 saw body stockings but that has been at least 10-12 years ago and from what
 my Lebanese friends tell me things have gotten much more conservative all
 over the region since then.
     When I dance in the SCA if you can see more than my forearms and head,
 then you've crawled in my clothes with me. Down Chas. now is not the time to
 check my seams.
 
 Maleah >>


Dern..here I thought would have been the perfect opportunity for a seam 
chack..You do realize Maleah that when I see you in middle eastern from here 
on out I am going to have some interesting comments.

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 19 23:48:01 1999
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com





I remembered another one too.  Murder on the Orient Express.  Love the train 
station scene.

Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 00:37:16 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: film costumes (well, TV, but...)
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 11:51 PM 10/19/99 -0500, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
>
>-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
>
>This is TV, but it's historical, so....
>
>What about one of my favorite shows, Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman?
>
>I realize that her attitudes would not have been the norm at that time
>period, but what about the clothes?  Women's in particular?  As far as I
>could tell, they at least were all somewhat corsetted.  You do get to see
>the underwear in some episodes.
>
>There was one two-parter about midway thru the series run when the family
>went to Washington DC to get a pardon or something for Sully.  In the
>course of the two episodes, there were THREE White House balls - talk about
>acres of hoopskirts!
>
>I'm interested in the opinions of those who know - as opposed to yours
>truly who mostly does fantasy stuff.
>
>Sandy

I have only seen one or two episodes (no TV at home). But my first
impression was a blending of about 40 years of women's fashions into one
show. The shirtwaist (modern term is blouse) and skirt combination became
widespread in the 1890s. Large hoop skirts went out by the end of the 1860s.
And the medical knowlege seemed a bit too advanced for the apparent time period.

All in all, it's not historical, though the costumes are nice in their own way. 

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 02:38:11 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 14:46:02 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: oriental dragon costume
In-Reply-To: <000801bf1a61$48eb6700$e42c46a6@DESIGN.alinco>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Try places in San Francisco?

Design writes, in a message sent 12:39 P 10/19/99 -0600:
>
>-Poster: "Design" <design@alincocostumes.com>
>
>Does anyone know of a company or individual who sells or rents Oriental
>Parade Dragons?  I'm looking for one that can be used on stage, not too big,
>but still impressive.  Any leads would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Kevin
>



Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 03:03:40 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: silk stockings
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 01:18:00 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>


David,
Will do.
The inventory has not yet been completed; will post a message to the group 
on the status when it has.

Susannah

>From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Re: silk stockings
>Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:20:15 -0700
>
>
>-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
>
>Susannah Eanes wrote:
>
> > I have access to the inventory of an old store that contains, among
> > other wonderful things, original late 18th - early 19th c. silk
> > stockings & corsets in their original boxes.  I don't know how they
> > have stood up to the decades of being stored away in an
> > unheated/uncooled store attic warehouse, but they sure look & feel
> > pretty good to me.  The owner is currently assessing these items for
> > sale either in lots or as one whole.  If anyone is interested in
> > finding out more, please e-mail me privately.
>
>I am just starting to clear my H-COST message when I say your offer.
>
>If it is not to late please add my name and address to those who are
>interested
>
>David S. Mallinak
>matchlck@erol.com
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 03:22:03 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: silk stockings
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 01:36:33 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>


Hi again guys,
After reading the other posts regarding this, I thought a quick update was 
in order.  There have been several delays along the way; among them, the 
owner of the inventory leaving the country for several months without giving 
us instructions to go ahead and do the mail-out.  There are about a dozen 
pairs of brown silk plain stockings, and maybe a half-dozen pairs of black 
patterned silk, and oooooodles of black woolen stockings.  And lots of c. 
1920 - 1940 argyles.  Over 3,000 pairs of shoes c. 1890 - 1940.  About 50 - 
75 corsets c. 1890s - 1930s, mostly earlier rather than later.  I have been 
back in contact with the owner, and expect to get this off my plate within 
the month, barring any major catastrophies.

Christie's and a couple of very large dealers have expressed an interest, 
but that doesn't mean their bid for the contents of the store is going to be 
higher than anyone else's, or that their bids for the total contents will be 
higher than all bids on all the smaller lots combined.  The owner will award 
the items to the highest bids, whether that be the combined bids from many 
people for many lots, or to one bidder for the total lot.  It also depends 
on how much stuff is left over from all the combined bids... he wants to get 
rid of it all.

I am still on the list, just pretty busy this time of year so in lurk 
mode...

Susannah

>>Susannah Eanes wrote:
>>
>> > I have access to the inventory of an old store that contains, among
>> > other wonderful things, original late 18th - early 19th c. silk
>> > stockings & corsets in their original boxes.  I don't know how they
>> > have stood up to the decades of being stored away in an
>> > unheated/uncooled store attic warehouse, but they sure look & feel
>> > pretty good to me.  The owner is currently assessing these items for
>> > sale either in lots or as one whole.  If anyone is interested in
>> > finding out more, please e-mail me privately.
>>
>>I am just starting to clear my H-COST message when I say your offer.
>>
>>If it is not to late please add my name and address to those who are
>>interested
>>
>>David S. Mallinak
>>matchlck@erol.com
>>

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 15:43:16 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Sabrina

>The Three Musketeers

which versions?  I haven't seen the latest version of Sabrina, but the
costuming in the latest version of The Three Musketeers (while better than
the acting/plot) didn't impress me. 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 03:50:26 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 15:50:11 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Watching films with experts (was Re: H-COST: Re: Hoss)
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I watched some costume movie with my then husband the military buff.  I
could spot the flaws in the costumes, tho he couldn't, but if anything was
wrong with the uniforms he could spot it, tho I couldn't. 

>> ><<  I'm sure
>> > we, as a historic costumer, are some of the best flaw finders and NO
>ONE
>> >likes to
>> > watch programs with us.  >>
>> >
>> >It must be as bad as watching any movie with an air plane in it with my
>> >ex-pilot husband!
>> >
>> >Nancy
>> 
>> Or ER with a nurse!  Done that, never again!!
>
>As a dyed-in-the-cowhide farm girl from Kansas, I have a hard time watching
>westerns. Some of the stuff in the background is pretty jarring, like the
>wrong kind of flora for the area, or blooming plants in the dead of winter.
>Bonnet styles are a sticking point as well (to bring this back to the list's
>purpose.) Seems some directors figure a bonnet is a bonnet is a bonnet, and
>any old thing will do. NOT!
>One old film had a cattle stampede, which did happen from time to time, but
>these cattle were not on the trail, they were in a pen. And there was no
>lightening strike, rattlesnake or anything else to set them off. They just
>started running. Which cattle do NOT do, they are fairly placid beasts. And
>lazy. Well, if you were bred for rapid weight gain and had all the food you
>needed right there handy, would you want to go jogging on a whim?

My grandfather was a cowboy in the 1880's, and wrote some reminiscences
about, among other things, cows, which I have read.  He didn't know why
they would 'want to go jogging on a whim', but he thought they did sometimes.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 07:15:01 1999
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From: "Carol Blanchard" <blanchard@oak.ait.fredonia.edu>
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 08:26:42 +0000
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-Poster: "Carol Blanchard" <blanchard@oak.ait.fredonia.edu>

> From:          AnnoraK@aol.com
> Date:          Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:12:24 EDT
> Subject:       H-COST: Quasi-stupid dye question
> To:            h-costume@indra.com
> Reply-to:      h-costume@indra.com

> 
> -Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com
> 
> Do mixed-fiber fabrics dye evenly?  I'm thinking of getting a batch of the 
> silk-rayon devore/etched velvet from Dharma Trading and as I'm trying to 
> figure out how much I want/need this question popped into my head.  I know 
> there might be an appearance of different shades due to the nap on the 
> velvet, but does the silk ground match the rayon pile after dying?  Am I just 
> being silly?  Or have I finally found my reason to go buy lots of the lovely 
> velvet at G Street?
> 
> --Jen
>  _________________________________________________________________
This isn't a stupid question at all.  Different fibres take various 
dyes differently.  With this fabric you may have the best luck using 
a dye that is meant to deal with two types of fibres, protein (silk) 
and cellulose (rayon).  That would be the household variety of union 
dye like RIT or TINTEX.  Both these dyes are combination dyes 
containing both acid and direct dyes which is why they will color so 
much.  The only problem with RIT is that you can't get really intense 
colors from it and it fades out under repeated washings.  If you need 
an intense color you might test try an acid dye.  They are meant for 
protein fibres (and don't take on cotton/linen at all) but might hold 
on a rayon.  

Carol
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

In a message dated 10/20/99 2:06:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time, kayta@slip.net 
writes:

<< 
 which versions?  I haven't seen the latest version of Sabrina, but the
 costuming in the latest version of The Three Musketeers (while better than
 the acting/plot) didn't impress me. 
  >>
Sorry, 
I had forgotten the latest travesties (especially the remake of Sabrina}.
I meant the Charleton Heston/Faye Dunnaway Musketeers & The Original Sabrina 
with the immortal Audrey Hepburn,
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 07:36:08 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 22:39:23 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

Good historicals? Umm...

How about 'The Three Musketeers' (the real one with Oliver Reed, not the
recent crappy cowboys on heat version).

For strange, there's the Douglass Fairbanks Jr 'Sinbad the Sailor' - you
can spend many entertaining hours trying to work out where Anthony Quinn
got that perfectly cut jacket with shoulder padding and set sleeves.

Sum'n say 'Orlando'? Well, nice chicks' movie, I suppose.


By the way, as one with a bit in my brain about Georgian/Regency military,
what is the word on the Hornblower TV series that has yet to show
here...will I be spending my time or wasting it?


-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 07:43:02 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 05:57:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

> By the way, as one with a bit in my brain about
> Georgian/Regency military,
> what is the word on the Hornblower TV series that
> has yet to show
> here...will I be spending my time or wasting it?
> 
I LOOOOOOOVED it... but I was watching it for the
military stuff, not the costuming...  It is...
different from the old movie version, but good just
the same... they put more emphasis on some of the
subplot points which made it interesting...

As for the costuming, I don't have any idea what is
"right" and "wrong" in that time frame, so I thought
they were pretty good. ;-)

Sarah


=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 08:33:44 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: Watching films with experts (was Re: H-COST: Re: Hoss)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 07:55:33 -0600
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

My DH is an expert on Armor, weapons (all ages), ships, Aircraft
(everything, but not so perfect in World War I).  And I find that it is
very interesting to watch anything with him.  In fact we were watching
Matrix the other day (cool costuming, by the way) and at some point we get
a good look at an agent's gun.  He says "What a great gun", I turn to him
and say, "Desert Eagle?", he said, "Yes, but what caliber".  Well I didn't
get the caliber right, but that was because I was wondering how I knew what
is was to begin with!  I am also becoming pretty proficient at spotting
Mustangs and Flying Fortresses, telling a battleship from a destroyer, fast
attack sub from a boomer and I have even spotted armor flaws in movies.

By the way, I asked him if there was a movie where he thought the armor was
outstanding or even remotely accurate and he is still thinking about it.

Kathlene

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 08:37:36 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 08:52:24 -0500 (CDT)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: silk stockings
In-Reply-To: <0.ca499e94.253e7754@aol.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Christi's does not have a category for textiles or clothing, could it be a
different auction house? Under what name would the lots be under?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Tue, 19 Oct 1999 AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:

> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 21:39:32 EDT
> From: AnnBWass@aol.com
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: silk stockings
> 
> 
> -Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com
> 
> I don't think Susannah is currently on the list, but I seem to remember her
> saying that the owner of the store contents had been contacted by Christie's
> or one of the other big auction houses and was going to be putting the
> contents up for auction.  
> And also, when she contacted me directly (several months ago) she told me 
> there weren't any silk stockings after all.  So don't get your hopes up.
> Ann Wass 
> 

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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Article on Courtesans
In-Reply-To: <v03007806b43159430aac@[209.207.57.157]>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Seeing as how there was such an overwhelming desire  for the info on the
article on Renaissance Courtesans I read ;), here it is:

The article is one of three comprising a book on renaissance florence.
The other two concern themselves with the social status of nuns and how it
changed during the 15th century in Florence, and the other article was on
the lives of widows in Florence during the 15th century.  All three are
based on statistics and documents from the Florentine archives.

The book itself is a paperback, called  
The Women of Renaissance Florence: Power and Dependence in Renaissance
Florence, by Richard Trexler.  Published by Pegasus Press, ISBN:0866981578

You can buy it from Pegasus Press at http://www.pegasuspress.org

Drea


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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 11:26:31 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/20/1999 8:56:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:

<< Sum'n say 'Orlando'? Well, nice chicks' movie, I suppose.
  >>

I know what you mean....zero drama. But the clothes may be the best thing 
about it. I love how when she's...er....a man the periods are sorta 
androgynous...Elizabethan & petticoat breeches. When she becomes a woman it's 
all corsets and hoops of some kind. Remember then she & a maid sorta "dance" 
around each other to get by that enormous pannier?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 10:34:54 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 08:48:25 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

We just had an *Arab Festival* here in Seattle and the belly dancers were
all in folk costume - as opposed to night club dress - and they were very
much covered up.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
>Date: Tue, Oct 19, 1999, 11:55 PM
>

>
>-Poster: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>
>
>Glad to hear from someone who's seen first hand. The info I have came from
>several videos taken by my teacher while at a cabaret in Cairo. I
definitely
>saw body stockings but that has been at least 10-12 years ago and from what
>my Lebanese friends tell me things have gotten much more conservative all
>over the region since then.
>    When I dance in the SCA if you can see more than my forearms and head,
>then you've crawled in my clothes with me. Down Chas. now is not the time
to
>check my seams.
>
>Maleah
>----- Original Message -----
>From: R.L. Shep <rlshep@home.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 4:50 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
>
>
>>
>> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>>
>> I have seen belly dancers in Egypt.  Yes they are covered up.  And they
>are
>> usually heavier than we would think a belly dancer would be.  I remember
>> reading an Egyptian novelist who was talking about a woman walking down
>the
>> street and praising her buttocks and how big they were and the fact that
>> they rolled when she walked.
>> I have also seen belly dancers in strickter muslim countries and they are
>> even more covered up.
>> In fact neither in Egypt nor in other countries have I ever seen a woman
>> wear a body stocking....they really are covered.
>> ~!~ R.L.Shep
>> http://www.rlshep.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 12:43:26 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 10:56:04 -0700
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

Anna Karenina was on TBS (or was it tnt) the other night and there were alotof very pretty dresses in that movie as well, not sure but I think they are replaying it this week sometime.

Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 13:27:17 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0FJV00E032ND30@vega.utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 20:26:27 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi all,

It was al about the following:
> >>"...sericis vestimentis ornati, cicladibus
> >> auro textus circumdati, ..."
> >>"silken ornate garments, encircled (in the manner of a
> >>cyclas) with golden made stuff" *or* "silken ornate
> >>garments, encircled (in the manner of the Cyclades).
> >with golden made stuff".
> >Could it be: "ornamented silken vestments (or garments)
> >of gold woven cyclat" or even shorter: "golden
> >ornamented cyclat-silk garments"?
>
To which Marc replied:
> Only if I rearranged all the words and took out the
> comma in the original sentance.

In medieval as well as classic  Latin it is not unusual to rearrange words
and so get different meanings of sentences. But I grant you; I'm no
latinist. About the comma; is it really there in the original text? They did
not have commas in the middel ages, as far as I know. At least not in the
13th c.

> At best, it might mean "silken ornate garments, with
> golden made stuff in the manner of cyclas"

I could live with that.
>
> Personally, I have nothing against that definition, mind
> you.  I'm just not sure the words match it.  (BTW, I
> have a friend who is attempting to proove that "blaut"
> was not a cut of garment, but similarly, simply made
> from "bliaut" (a kind of silk).  If you have any
> suggestions of texts I might pass along to her, I'd
> appreciate it)

Belinda Sibly wrote in het article about the Bliaut in the SCA's Tournaments
Illuminated, nr 109, winter 1993 that bliaut was a German word meaning a
type of fabric, as does Lehnart in Kleidung und Waffen 1150-1320. The last
ellaborates and writes that it is a fabric worked through with gold, called
'bliat'. He doesn't say it's silk, but says the cloth was imported from the
orient and southern Europe later; so it's probably silk.
>
> >'Textus' is not 'made' but means specifically 'woven',
> >as the gold thread is woven through the silk.
>
> I don't know, I think that "golden made stuff" is a
> perfectly acceptable way to translate that, and neatly
> conveys the general obscurity of terms presented into
> English.  For the record, "textus" means considerably
> more than just "woven".
>
> Cassell's Latin Dictionary:
> "Textus  _a web_; hence _texture_, _structure_: TRANSF.
> of speach or writing, _mode of putting together_,
> _assembly_"
>
> Oxford Latin Dictionary:
>  "1. Pattern or style of weaving; (concr) a woven
> fabric. b. (method of) plaiting or interlacing; (concr.)
> a piece of plaited work.
> 2.  A method of joining or fitting together, make-up,
> structure (specifically in Epicurian philosophy) atomic
> conformation  b. the point at wich the parts of a
> structure fit together.
> 3.  The fabric made by joining the words together, the
> body of a passage."

Granted, but it originally meant and still means any stuff that's been
crossed vertically and horizontally to make a kind of mesh as threads in a
piece of cloth or sticks to make a fence. The later meanings are more
figurative.
>
> In any case, fabric that is woven through with gold,
> interlaced with gold, attached to the body of the
> garment with gold, or woven from nothing but golden
> threads are all "golden-made stuff".

OK

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 13:27:17 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.b7095555.253e420c@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 20:36:41 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi everybody,

Kathleen wrote:
> Maybe we should look at Violette-le-Duc's dictionary of medieval clothing
(in > French of course) as a possible source of misinformation and dubious
> terminology.
>
> Henk, what's your take on this?

I heartily agree and have been doing that since 1996. His mistakes are being
made again (in commission) by every beginning costume researcher, historian
and costume book writer, because most of them don't do original research.
and Viollet has been copied in every costumebook up till now. It's mostly
rather easy to disqualify his drawings and texts. The first are often
wrongly interpreted, so the texts write about things that were already
wrongly copied in the first place. Most of the drawings, when you compare
them to recent photo's of the same statues or with the original miniatures,
show themselves as rather silly interpretations. Be careful people...

Henk

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: terminology
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 11:53:19 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_012D_01BF1AF1.B3B6B7C0
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    Si non e vero, e ben trovato, huh?
   =20
    Henk
   =20
    Ok, I followed you until the point quote above...Italian.
    Michelle

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
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</HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"" bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Si non e vero, e ben trovato, =
huh?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Henk</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Ok, I followed you until the point =
quote=20
    above...Italian.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Michelle</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 13:33:00 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 11:57:09 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>




>
>-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>
>When I was a young teen, I created a costume from "Xanadu" complete with
leg
>warmers and roller skates!!
>
>
>Joan Broneske
>unicorn@softcom.net


And a brave person, indeed, to admit to that.   And, which of Charlie's
Angels was your favorite?
;)

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 14:02:36 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: bodice lacing
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 12:26:41 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>> > The gap referred to is the one between the sides of the corset, not
both the
>> > corset and bodice.  The reason you want a gap in the corset is to
account for
>> > variations in weight/water retention.  The bodice shouldn't have a gap-
it should
>> > close completely.
>>
>> Whoops, wait.....if your corset is going to vary in size as you do, how
do
>> you get your bodice to close completely every time without overlapping
>> sometimes?  Or do you just wear different dresses on different days of
the
>> month?  (not a serious suggestion, though it would be amusing...)


The corset is going to take all the stress so the bodice doesn't have to be
skin tight. You can lace it so it meets, not overlapping and leave it a
little loose. If the weight or water gain is so much that the bodice can't
encompass you anymore, then chances are it is not going to fit in the
armholes anymore, which can be so painful (unless you keep your shoulders
back and don't move all day). Both of these garments, if fit correctly in
the first place, can't adjust more than an inch or two and still fit
correctly.
Michelle

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From: "Andrew Clark" <andrew@militarymetal.free-online.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 1895 Lancers full levee dress
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-Poster: "Andrew Clark" <andrew@militarymetal.free-online.co.uk>


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of MissMela@aol.com
Sent: 12 September 1999 05:48
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1895 Lancers full levee dress



-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

I am starting on a 17th or 16th (haven't found the right wool yet) 1895
Lancer's Full Levee Dress uniform for my husband but am having trouble
locating the correct hat. I have pictures but do not know who sells them.
Any
help list? Miss Mela


Dear Miss Mella.
Dawn has passed your message on to me regarding lancer Czapska hats.
I am currently manufacturing new pattern one for the Band of the Royal
Lancer Regiment.
I can supply an 1890 pattern Officer's Czapska at a figure of £650.00
excluding plate and cords.
There is some difficulty regarding plate patterns and the exact lace, as
these are difficult to obtain.
I can also supply a 1902 regulation 17th Lancer Officers complete for
 750.00. This is a more theatrical version using synthetic laces and two
colour plating on the front plate, rather than the correct seperate peices
of the original.

Please let me know if these are of any interest to you and I can send
further details and delivery times.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 16:24:03 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 16:19:48 -0500
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From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: dye
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

Rayon, although it is a "synthetic" fiber, is nevertheless made from 
plants, as are cotton, ramie and linen. They should all dye well with 
procion fiber reactive dyes.

Protein, or animal, fibers such as silk and wool can also be dyed with 
fiber reactive dyes, BUT, they probably will not yield the exact same color 
on silk as on cotton.

Acid dyes are intended for protein fibers, and must be steamed to be fast.

A good source for procion dyes, and lots more interesting stuff, is Dharma. 
(No affiliation).
http://www.dharmatrading.com

Kim
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 16:25:54 1999
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 10/19/1999 11:49:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dawn.wood1@virgin.net writes:
> 
> << but who cares about uniforms, which would also be my comment on Last of
>  The Mohicans by the way,  >>
> 
>
> figure THAT out beforehand.....you have no business directing. If you can't
> decide....let an expert in the field do it for you.
 Doesn't surprise me in the least I'm a friend of Tim Pickles who was
supposed to be military advisor on the film for all the notice that was
taken of him so have heard the stories.
When the bbc did the last version of Pride and Predudice they employed
Colonel Walton a uniform historian who wanted me to make the uniforms,
as I've been making them for museums for so long I'm now considered
something of an expert apparently, however they then took no notice much
to his bemusement and used the old wrong standards that had been lurking
around Bermans since forever. Even on Sharpe which is about soldiers and
which originally had Andrew Mollo as art director, and John Mollo (oscar
for Star Wars) as designer who together with their brother Major Boris
had one of the largest private military collections, the uniforms were
wrong as the budget was so small that they had to take whatever was
vaguely okay from Angels rather than what he wanted me to make, there
are allsorts in there inc Charge of the light brigade Hussars . John
didn't do the rest of the series'. He did do Hornblower and as he has
several Royal Marine items he was determined to make sure at least one
uniform was accurate so I made a handfinished prototype for the rest to
be copied from. He was also responsible for Barry Lyndon and Revolution

By the way no one has mentioned The Draughtsman's Contract which is one
of the best 'designed' films IMHO as the clothing is also accurate In
most cases.
My favourite designers are Jim Aicheson who I worked with when at
Berman's on Empire of the Sun just about his first film I think and
Dangerous Liasons when I was at Angels although I escaped soon after
he'd started on it which was a shame But he's a lovely man who came up
through th ranks, and Bob Ringwood who is also not afraid to get in
there and sew himself unlike most of the designers I've worked with

dawn   

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 16:29:05 1999
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

K & J Hopkins wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> 
> 
ies.> 
> By the way, I asked him if there was a movie where he thought the armor was
> outstanding or even remotely accurate and he is still thinking about it.
> 
> Kathlene
> 
> Excalibur is of course the greatest armoured movie there has been although alot of it was fantasy, but even until relatively recently The Royal Armouries and several of the UK's top armour experts (who happen to be pals) considered Henry V (the proper version not Branagh's attempt) to be the most accurately armoured film even though most of the plate was in fact cardboard due to anything metal having gone to the war effort as the shapes etc were correct.

Of course the mail and akhetons in Zefferelli's Hamlet were excellent
but then I would say that as I made them

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 16:30:11 1999
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 10/18/1999 1:48:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> allessandre@hotmail.com writes:
> 
> << >Check out the 2 part Little Doritt....with Derek Jacobe & Alec >Guiness.
>  >All the clothes were actually made by hand. It took 2 years.
> 
>  Tell me more!  Tell me more!  Where, when, and the story!  Please, please
>  (whimper, whimper!)
>   >>
> 
> Calm....calm....
> 
> All I know is that the clothes were indeed hand made. We rented some for the
> miniseries Queen and they were entirely hand sewn....down to the whipped
> overcasting of raw seam allowances. If the hooks & eyes had been brass, I
> would've thought they were very well preserved originals.
> 
> I believe they were exhibited at the V&A after production. The film[s] looks
> perfect. Every walk of life is represented. They were exhibited at the museum of London I have the catalogue and went to see them. The clothes were not only made by costume makers but they intrigued the locals so much that even the milkman got a look in and did some work. The actor/esses were not allowed to wear makeup either or have there hair 'done'.

Dawn
> 
> James Acheson only asks that leads & featured extras have all stitching &
>


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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 21:49:55 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1895 Lancers full levee dress
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Andrew Clark wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Andrew Clark" <andrew@militarymetal.free-online.co.uk>
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of MissMela@aol.com
> Sent: 12 September 1999 05:48
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: 1895 Lancers full levee dress
> 
> -Poster: MissMela@aol.com
> 
>Apologies from Andrew to the list for this mail not going privately. It's been a long week

dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 17:15:08 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 17:28:40 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>>
>In medieval as well as classic  Latin it is not unusual to rearrange words
>and so get different meanings of sentences. But I grant you; I'm no
>latinist. About the comma; is it really there in the original text? They did
>not have commas in the middel ages, as far as I know. At least not in the
>13th c.

Since I don't have the original text in hand, I'm afraid I couldn't tell
you why
the Great Britain Public Record Office chose to put the commas in their
_Matthœi 
Parisiensis, monachi Sancti Albani Historia Anglorum, sive, ut vulgo dicitur, 
Historia minor. Item, ejusdem Abbreviatio chronicorum Angliœ_.  All I can
tell you
is that they are there on the microfiche.

>Belinda Sibly wrote in het article about the Bliaut in the SCA's Tournaments
>Illuminated...

Thank you, I'll pass that along for her consideration.

>Granted, but it originally meant and still means any stuff that's been
>crossed vertically and horizontally to make a kind of mesh as threads in a
>piece of cloth or sticks to make a fence. The later meanings are more
>figurative.

I'll have to take your word for it.  Obviously your knowledge of Latin
exceeds mine.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 17:17:02 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 15:27:44 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: bodice lacing
In-Reply-To: <380BDA4D.26AC@home.com>
References: <0.36aa41a1.253c82b5@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 07:41 PM 18/10/99 -0700, you wrote:
>If the bodicee is boned and no corset is used is it alright to let the
>boning channels (stiching) show on the outside? I have some light weight
>bones that are too flexible, will it cause problems if I put 2 bones in
>each channel?    

Putting 2 bones in each channel shouldn't cause a problem. I did this both
with my Elizabethan corset, and my wench bodice. Just make sure that you
put a bone casing in to protect the outer fabric, especially if it's not
heavy canvas-like material. And of course, if you're using rigilene (evil
stuff, but all that's available here [Langley, BC.. if you have another,
non-mail order source, lemme know please!]) make sure you singe the ends of
the bones so they don't work thru the fabric. *S* For my wench bodice, for
the boning channels on either sides of the lacing, I put in 3 pieces. That
fixed the problem of the stuff bending at the waist, if you have the
pointy-front styled bodice.

HTH!

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 17:35:45 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Quasi-stupid dye question
In-Reply-To: <380D1963.C60D740A@inreach.com>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 19 Oct 1999, Diana H wrote:

> This isn't a stupid question at all!  And the answer is that it depends
> on the fibers and the dye that you use.  In the instance of your
> proposed fabric, all I can say is that silk takes dye very, very well.
> I am not as sure about rayon but I seem to remember that it takes pretty
> well.  And I have had good success with Rit dye on just about
> everything.  There are other commercial "cold" dyes in some fabric
> stores but I don't think that they work very well.
> 
Well lots of people have been saying rayon and silk should dye the same
so I thought I would relate my experience. A little while ago now I dyed
some silk and rayon together in a dye bath. The dye was Rit Dark Green
liquid dye, and the fabrics were already coloured, both shades of lime
green (except for one piece of silk which was ice-blue). I used two
bottles of dye (there was 6m of the rayon and 4m of silk). The silk became
quite a dark green, the rayon only a medium shade. There was a very
noticeable difference between them.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 17:41:51 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 20 Oct 1999, Marc Carlson wrote:

> >and so get different meanings of sentences. But I grant you; I'm no
> >latinist. About the comma; is it really there in the original text? They did
> >not have commas in the middel ages, as far as I know. At least not in the
> >13th c.
> 
> Since I don't have the original text in hand, I'm afraid I couldn't tell
> you why
> the Great Britain Public Record Office chose to put the commas in their
> _Matthœi 
> Parisiensis, monachi Sancti Albani Historia Anglorum, sive, ut vulgo dicitur, 
> Historia minor. Item, ejusdem Abbreviatio chronicorum Angliœ_.  All I can
> tell you
> is that they are there on the microfiche.
> 
Well, in a quick glance at my library I saw no commas, but plenty of full
stops, colons and semi-colons. Perhaps one of those was used in the
context we might today use a comma and someone thought they would do the 
modern reader a favour by 'translating' it.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 17:43:34 1999
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Message-ID: <0.2952e4b4.253fa267@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 18:55:35 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: movie inspirations
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com


The first costume "movie" that truly inspired me was the Lillie series on 
Masterpiece Theater when I was a kid back in the 70s.  So many gorgeous 
bustle era dresses!  Such a small waist!  I bought the videos quite some time 
ago now, not a small purchase, but very worth it.

Dangerous Liaisons also has to top the list.  Not many movies where we get to 
actually see them dressing from head to toe as in the credits of this one.  

When I think of movies that are inspirational costume-wise I think of the 
ones I've watched over and over, even just a particular scene...

I must have seen the A & E Pride and Prejudice at least 10 times so I guess 
that counts.  I've got Immortal Beloved queued to my favorite scenes, yes, 
yes I know it's not truly period, but despite any inaccuracies the dresses 
are a refreshing change from the basic Regency white with their rich colors 
and eastern influence.  Greta Satchi wears some beautiful gowns & wigs in 
Jefferson in Paris. Angels and Insects is wonderful for the vibrant colors 
and insect-inspired gowns. I also liked the video I checked out recently that 
was a film adaptation of Wilkie Collin's Basil, it had some nice artistic 
inspired gowns.  Also like a little known Merchant Ivory film of the Henry 
James story "The Europeans".  I could go on and on...

And for the completely over-the-top historically *inspired* melange of a 
bunch of time periods, completely inaccurate ON PURPOSE the award goes to 
Desperate Remedies - a fabulous send up of the typical bodice ripper.  One of 
my all-time favorite movies.

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 17:43:51 1999
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From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 10:39 PM 10/19/99 +1000, you wrote:

>By the way, as one with a bit in my brain about Georgian/Regency military,
>what is the word on the Hornblower TV series that has yet to show
>here...will I be spending my time or wasting it?
>
>
>-C.
> _________________________________________________________________
>
        Where is here?  The Hornblower miniseries already aired both in
England where it was produced, and in the U.S..  I would argue that it is
worth watching, but it is not Hornblower as presented in the books.
Clothing was generally good, but the kept crossing periods (Naval and
Civilian).  They took a few liberties on the uniforms as well, apparently
for more flash.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cyclas sources (Terminology)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 19:09:03 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings--

Since I don't have the original text in hand, I'm afraid I couldn't tell
you why
the Great Britain Public Record Office chose to put the commas in their
_Matthœi
Parisiensis, monachi Sancti Albani Historia Anglorum, sive, ut vulgo
dicitur,
Historia minor. Item, ejusdem Abbreviatio chronicorum Angliœ_.  All I can
tell you
is that they are there on the microfiche.


Punctuating edited Latin texts (particularly medieval Latin texts) is pretty
much standard practice;  it dates back at least to the early printed
editions printed in the 1500s. Having looked at 13th and 14th century
manuscripts quite extensively in the course of my doctoral work, I can
confirm the lack of commas in the originals.  In fact, I've got some
translated excerpts of the _Chronica Majora_ of Matthew of Paris (different
work than the one cited, but same author) in a "coffee-table-type" book I
found at Barnes and Noble, including some pictures of what is thought to be
the autograph copy (with Matthew's own drawings).  Not a comma in site.
There are, however, periods.

I can also tell you that punctuation by modern scholars is very much an
idiosyncratic thing.  My supervisor and I spent a lot of time working out
the punctuation in my text;  when I made the final corrections after my
defense, one of my committee members suggested some changes--and it turns
out he was closer to *my* original punctuation of the text.

Susan Carroll-Clark

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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 19:04:26 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com

In a message dated 10/20/99 1:02:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Mayfair13a@aol.com writes:

<< I remembered another one too.  Murder on the Orient Express.  Love the 
train 
 station scene. >>

Death on the Nile's great too.  I love all the wild fortuny type dresses 
Angela Landsbury's wacky drunken character wears.  I think D on the N won or 
was nominated for an award for costumes, but I could be wrong.


Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 17:56:15 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 19:09:15 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Military Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com


If you're into Napoleonic costumes (and GUY costume movies) one of the best 
in my opinion is The Duelists, with Harvey Keitel.  Some of the costumes 
looked like they'd come straight out of the military museum in Paris.

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 18:53:30 1999
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From: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@mediaone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: spray  dye
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 20:06:50 -0400
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-Poster: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@Mediaone.net>



I am making a tent and need to dye a large yardage of fabric. (18 sq yards)
has anyone used it? What can I use.
andy

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/20/1999 5:42:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dawn.wood1@virgin.net writes:

<< But he's [James Acheson] a lovely man who came up
 through th ranks, and Bob Ringwood who is also not afraid to get in
 there and sew himself unlike most of the designers I've worked with >>

Agreed. I've only worked with James but met Bob Ringwood here in Wilmington. 
Both very excellent designers and great people. Bob's costumes for "DUNE" are 
stored here [were stored here] in Wilmington because the studio was Dino 
deLauentes' then. They are magnificent! "Dune" is a horrible film with 
fantastic art direction. Each planet has a look with its foot firmly planted 
in an historical period.....which comments on the character of that planet. 
The Emperor's court has definite Spanish Inquisition overtones and the "good 
guys" evoke Nicholas & Alexandria.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 19:20:17 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 19:38:29 -0500
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

I am a dancer and have enjoyed costuming research.  All of what y'all say
is acceptable as accurate.

*Yes, there is even today a controversy over exposed bellies in Egypt. It
doesn't matter how famous you are, you are still supposed to cover - even
if it is with a flesh colored body stocking. I don't think the penalty is
death, but I believe there may be some heavy fines involved.

*As for the size of the women - y'all know that different cultures have
different ideas on beauty. My husband (whom I've dragged to way too many
Belly Dance shows) believes the more "mature" body does the dance more
justice.

*If I were going to go "in period" as a ME dancer, I would check out the
designs of Persia, Turkey and Lebanon. There is a style of dress called the
Beledi dress (or Baladi) that can VERY easily be designed to "look" period.
Lebanese ladies wear them quite a lot. Check these out:

	http://www.greenduck.com/gfxfc/af23.htm
	http://users.lazerlink.com/~dwarph/v1n1/al-must_v1N1.html#RTFToC11

*Gypsies are not limited to one area of the world. Gypsy is a generic name
for nomad bands from "anywhere".

*I know most of you make your own costumes, but this lady has a handle on a
"look" that very appropriate for "period" dance dressing:

	http://www.mindspring.com/~whill/Ghazallah

Amanda

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 19:44:46 1999
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From: "Sally Ann Chandler" <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1895 Lancers full levee dress
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 01:39:19 +0100
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-Poster: "Sally Ann Chandler" <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk>

Have you tried Tom Norbury?  He can manage most things and will be at the
Re-enactors Market at Oxford next month.  Contact me privately if this makes
no sense at all!!

Sally Ann
medcc@medcc.free-onlone.co.uk

-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Clark <andrew@militarymetal.free-online.co.uk>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: 20 October 1999 20:57
Subject: RE: H-COST: 1895 Lancers full levee dress


>
>-Poster: "Andrew Clark" <andrew@militarymetal.free-online.co.uk>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
>Behalf Of MissMela@aol.com
>Sent: 12 September 1999 05:48
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: 1895 Lancers full levee dress
>
>
>
>-Poster: MissMela@aol.com
>
>I am starting on a 17th or 16th (haven't found the right wool yet) 1895
>Lancer's Full Levee Dress uniform for my husband but am having trouble
>locating the correct hat. I have pictures but do not know who sells them.
>Any
>help list? Miss Mela
>
>
>Dear Miss Mella.
>Dawn has passed your message on to me regarding lancer Czapska hats.
>I am currently manufacturing new pattern one for the Band of the Royal
>Lancer Regiment.
>I can supply an 1890 pattern Officer's Czapska at a figure of £650.00
>excluding plate and cords.
>There is some difficulty regarding plate patterns and the exact lace, as
>these are difficult to obtain.
>I can also supply a 1902 regulation 17th Lancer Officers complete for
>£750.00. This is a more theatrical version using synthetic laces and two
>colour plating on the front plate, rather than the correct seperate peices
>of the original.
>
>Please let me know if these are of any interest to you and I can send
>further details and delivery times.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_0000_01BF1A75.D9584600
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>
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 18:09:32 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>*I know most of you make your own costumes, but this lady has a handle on a
>"look" that very appropriate for "period" dance dressing:
>
>	http://www.mindspring.com/~whill/Ghazallah
>

As a note, if the period one is doing is pre-17th c, the bodice would not
be cut under the bust. That is a mid-17th c fashion modeled after the
European fashions of the time.  Also most of the trousers narrow down to a
small cuff in period, however there are some trousers labeled 16th c in
Tilke which state they are poofy and girded at the calf.. IMHO, this is a
mismark as there are no other examples of these pants in the 16th c or
earlier I've seen and it clearly comes into fashion in the late 17th c.

Most dancing costume I've seen pre-17th c is no different from everyday
dress, usually is not accompanied by any dangly bits or wide hip sashes,
and has all the typical layers.   And for Persian in particular, often worn
with that silly looking dog-eared head wrap that I've never seen any
recreationists wear....

Some of the best information on Women's costume is "Women's Costume of the
Near and Middle East" by Jennifer Scarce and I like the closeups of the
garments in "Splendors of the Ottoman Sultans" from the traveling Topkapi
exhibit.  Any University library usually carries a number of books on
Islamic Miniature paintings, which are great for color and general look.
One thing to note as well is that pre-17th c Turkish and Persian costumes
do not use nearly as much striped fabrics as we tend to see in
recreationist groups, and I've yet to find someone in a primary source
wearing black.

The hard thing is to find clear costume representations from pre-1325 or
so. There are some ceramics, metalwork and etc, but they aren't often very
clear, and fewer still can be identified as female.

Julie Adams


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Subject: Re: H-COST: movie inspirations
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

In a message dated 10/20/99 6:58:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Marionetta@aol.com writes:

<< I must have seen the A & E Pride and Prejudice at least 10 times so I 
guess 
 that counts.  I've got Immortal Beloved queued to my favorite scenes, yes, 
 yes I know it's not truly period, but despite any inaccuracies the dresses 
 are a refreshing change from the basic Regency white with their rich colors 
 and eastern influence.  Greta Satchi wears some beautiful gowns & wigs in 
 Jefferson in Paris. >>

Okay, I stayed out of this discussion but cannot resist sharing a unique 
experience. Last week while in London for research, and we made a side trip 
to Costprop. They  shared costumes from Pride and Prejudice, Sense and 
Sensibility, Jefferson in Paris, and a few from Dangerous Liaisons. We had 
great fun, particularly with the hats.

Costprop would be interested in exhibiting costumes in the US. Email me 
offline for more details.

Also found goodies at Portobello market for November and December door prizes 
for calendar purchasers! Watch the web site at the first of each month.


Sally 
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>*As for the size of the women - y'all know that different cultures have
>different ideas on beauty. My husband (whom I've dragged to way too many
>Belly Dance shows) believes the more "mature" body does the dance more
>justice.
>
I've had a "mature" body, if by that you mean fat, since I was eight years
old, but I never felt that I was getting the basic movement of Middle
Eastern dance right until my third trimester of pregnancy.  It makes sense,
considering that many people believe that the dance is actually a metaphore,
or even a training method, for sexuality, pregnancy, and childbirth.  


Margo


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Subject: H-COST: Looking for Swavelle
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-Poster: "Kathryn L. Herb" <kayherb@juno.com>



A friend is looking for Swavelle, a fabric company from whom she used to
order fabrics at a ridiculously low price.  She no longer can locate
them.  Anyone know of them?  She didn't mention their location (except
that it was in the US), and is away for a while so I can't ask her.

Any leads would be most welcome!


Kay Herb Martz
kayherb@juno.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 20:30:40 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 18:45:35 -0700
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From: Alikhat <alikhat@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies (NOT!) and dancers
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-Poster: Alikhat <alikhat@ix.netcom.com>

At 07:38 PM 10/20/99 -0500, Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com> wrote:
>
>*Gypsies are not limited to one area of the world. Gypsy is a generic name
>for nomad bands from "anywhere".

 Not exactly. Oh, true, you can use the word as a generic term, (you can
even use it to apply to Broadway chorus dancers) but more properly the
word "Gypsy" refers to people of Romani descent. The Rom are a nomadic
people whose roots are Northern Indian and the word "Gypsy" was bestowed
upon them by Europeans who erroneously thought they originated from 
Egypt.

 The Romani have a culture and traditions that (while they vary somewhat
from region to region) are uniquely their own. They are not Arabic, they 
have little in the way of a tradition of belly dancing (though the Gypsies 
in Spain did invent the Tango) and though a traditional Romani woman 
could dance for money, she would *never* bare her midriff.

 Please, folks, everything that is exotic and/or nomadic is not necessarily 
"Gypsy".


 Alikhat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 21:16:47 1999
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-Poster: Oxalis <simurray@engin.umich.edu>

Tango was invented in Argentina, in the brothels of the port area of
Buenos Aires.  It was considered very imporper by most Argentines untill
ti was popularised by expatriate singers living in Paris.  This is why
many of the best known Tango songs are the laments of men missing their
hometown.  Many Argentines are still sort of ashamed of the Tango.



Alikhat wrote:
> have little in the way of a tradition of belly dancing (though the Gypsies
> in Spain did invent the Tango)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 21:18:09 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies - Silent Era
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 19:34:05 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Or, how about the silent film, with Douglas Fairbanks Sr. called 1001
Arabian Nights, (Possibly also called Sinbad the Sailor (I saw it a while
back).  Or the Phantom of the Opera with Lon Chaney - the effects of both
those movies, the costumes especially, have remained with me since seeing
them 10 years ago.  Whether they were inaccurate or not, they looked so
lush!

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Ballis <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: October 20, 1999 5:53 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies


>
>-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
>
>Good historicals? Umm...
>
>How about 'The Three Musketeers' (the real one with Oliver Reed, not the
>recent crappy cowboys on heat version).
>
>For strange, there's the Douglass Fairbanks Jr 'Sinbad the Sailor' - you
>can spend many entertaining hours trying to work out where Anthony Quinn
>got that perfectly cut jacket with shoulder padding and set sleeves.
>
>Sum'n say 'Orlando'? Well, nice chicks' movie, I suppose.
>
>
>By the way, as one with a bit in my brain about Georgian/Regency military,
>what is the word on the Hornblower TV series that has yet to show
>here...will I be spending my time or wasting it?
>
>
>-C.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 21:39:07 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 19:57:22 -0700
Subject: H-COST: costume in the movies
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Oddly enough *Bravo* is doing a whole week of best dressed movies.
Tonight they did *Shanghai Triad* which was done by a Chinese Director and
set in Shanghai in the 30s...   A wonderful mix of western and oriental and
show-girl type costumes.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 21:46:47 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume in the movies
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

OH no!!  How am I going to convince my sweetie to give up the TV when hockey
and resting are on?!  Auuugghh!

Zelda, rushing off to appropriate the remote.
-----Original Message-----
From: R.L. Shep <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: October 20, 1999 7:55 PM
Subject: H-COST: costume in the movies


>
>-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
>Oddly enough *Bravo* is doing a whole week of best dressed movies.
>Tonight they did *Shanghai Triad* which was done by a Chinese Director and
>set in Shanghai in the 30s...   A wonderful mix of western and oriental and
>show-girl type costumes.
>~!~ R.L.Shep
>http://www.rlshep.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 22:06:07 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 20:23:54 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

None of them, actually, but I did have a Dorothy Hamill haircut, wore a red
satin baseball jacket and Jordache jeans (gee, you can't tell I went to
high-school in the late 70s.)

Can you say "That 70's Show"?

:) :) :)
Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------


-----Original Message-----
From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 11:48 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies (long list)


>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
>
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>>
>>When I was a young teen, I created a costume from "Xanadu" complete with
>leg
>>warmers and roller skates!!
>>
>>
>>Joan Broneske
>>unicorn@softcom.net
>
>
>And a brave person, indeed, to admit to that.   And, which of Charlie's
>Angels was your favorite?
>;)
>
>Michelle
>
>

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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

The Rogue wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
> 
> OH no!!  How am I going to convince my sweetie to give up the TV when hockey
> and resting are on?! 
> 

Resting's a sport now? At last, something I'm qualified for!
Olympics, here I come!  ;->


Susan F. 



-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 20 23:36:59 1999
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Pourpoints & Houppelands
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 21:41:43 -0700
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

Hope I'm not too late with this question, but....

Robin, I have several closeups of the Arnofini Marriage picture, and a slide
of only the mirror.  Believe it or not the back of her dress is very
carefully painted and shows up well in the mirror.  Her sleves are huge in
back, in fact they seem to come off the base of her neck at either side and
curve way down, then out.  Would this be what you mean by "grandes assiette
manner?"

Regina Romsey, OUDV

>> Are the sleeves still cut in the same "grandes assiette manner"? If so,
how
>> does it turn into a bag?
>> Is his dagging applied as trim, set into a seam I cant see or artistic
>> license?>

>No idea without seeing the picture, but I found that once I figured out
>how to make a certain form of open sleeve (the cut is not immediately
>apparent), then converting it into a bag required only one more seam. I've
>seen dagging running along the outer lower edge of a bag sleeve before;
>that's where the seam is, so I presume that sort of dagging is set into
>the seam. Sometimes you see hanging bells or fringe on that same line.
>I've also seen dagging or other decorations along the line of an armhole,
>so again I figure it's set into a seam.

>I would use the term "grande assiette" to refer to an armhole that's
>deeply cut into the body at the back in a large circular shape. Is that
>what you're seeing?  I suppose there's no reason you couldn't use that
>armhole with a bag sleeve, though I'd have to see an example to get a
>sense of how it might be cut. >

>If you do find this image online, or in another book, let me know. This is
>the kind of illustration you sometimes see in the Medieval Woman series,
>but it didn't come to hand in the few items I just flipped through.

>--Robin

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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 23:54:49 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Deeply Cut Sleeves (Pourpoints & Houppelands)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

> >I would use the term "grande assiette" to refer to an armhole that's
> >deeply cut into the body at the back in a large circular shape. Is that
> >what you're seeing?  I suppose there's no reason you couldn't use that
> >armhole with a bag sleeve, though I'd have to see an example to get a
> >sense of how it might be cut. >

How about cut deeply into the back as an angled piece, such as the Moy
Gown (http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/moy.html)

Marc
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 01:09:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Deeply cut sleeves
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


Replying to two messages at once...

On Wed, 20 Oct 1999, Wanda Pease wrote:

> Robin, I have several closeups of the Arnofini Marriage picture, and a
> slide of only the mirror.  Believe it or not the back of her dress is
> very carefully painted and shows up well in the mirror.  Her sleves are
> huge in back, in fact they seem to come off the base of her neck at
> either side and curve way down, then out.  Would this be what you mean
> by "grandes assiette manner?" 

Mark wrote:

> How about cut deeply into the back as an angled piece, such as the Moy
> Gown (http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/moy.html)

First, I should note that the post Wanda quoted was from the middle of a
conversation; some of us had discussed this sleeve cut in some detail
already. We were using the term to refer specifically to a
late-14th-century armhole cut suggested on some men's short, fitted
garments in illuminations, and seen clearly in the extant pourpoint of
Charles de Blois (see Blanche Payne's or Stella Mary Newton's books for
good images of this garment). I've never heard the term applied outside
that fairly narrow context, and since we're being careful this week about
not misusing terms, I myself wouldn't apply it to anything else -- not to
an angled piece, and not to a woman's gown. 

I wrote earlier about my belief that the deep cut was developed as a
practical method of dealing with the back, chest, and shoulders of a
heavily muscled man. I've found that to be the case in my own
reconstructions -- I found the deep cut essential when I was fitting a man
with strongly muscled shoulders, but never when I was fitting women or
less-muscled men.  This is consistent with the fact that every example
I've seen that might be this cut has been on a warrior or otherwise
athletic young man. This need for shoulder flexibility seems to be
intrinsic to the body shape; the men of my acquaintance who are built this
way tell me tales of modern shirts that rip down the backs when they
happen to stretch their arms forward, because of the expansion of the
muscles; they have that problem with fitted costumes as well. An armorer
friend of mine showed me a way to measure the expansion; he uses that
measurement routinely when building armor for fighters. Now I use it when
fitting athletic men. I found that on the back, the curved seam follows
the line that separates the area of the back that does not "stretch" with
arm motion from the area that does. That is, if you place your seam on the
line dictated by the body movement, it produces the same "grande assiette"
line as seen in the sources. I am attracted to the idea that there was a
logical reason for developing such a weird-looking cut. 

I see that in my last post I referred to the cut as being deep "in the
back," but Charles' poupoint is cut deeply in the front as well, as was
the one I made. I tend to think of the back because that's the area where
I do my "expansion" measurements, but you need the flexibility in the
front, too.

Mindful of our desire not to misapply the term, I also wouldn't use this
term for a garment that was loose in the body, such as the houppelande
Giovanna is wearing. That's not to say that there were never deep or loose
armholes in women's clothing or houppelandes, but rather that (as far as I
can determine) the "grande assiette" armhole was developed specifically
for a fitted garment.  Moving again into theory, if you buy the logic that
the cut was a means to provide flexibility in a fitted garment for a
muscular man, it would not have been necessary in a full-bodied garment
like a houppelande.

In my earlier musing about bag sleeves, I said I suppose it would be
possible to put a bag sleeve into a deep-cut armhole, but that I hadn't
seen it done and I couldn't quite picture how it might be done (or why).
The pourpoints generally had fitted sleeves as well as bodies. 

I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the curved line was picked up
from the pourpoint and applied decoratively to different styles of
clothes, or to women's clothes. I'd have to look for images to get a sense
of whether this was actually done. (Now watch, I'll probably find twenty
of them next time I open a book.) Even so, unless and until I hear of a
historic source that uses the term "grande assiette" for these, I won't do
so myself. Cynthia posted some references from French documents of the
period that used the term; all of them applied to men's pourpoints. She
also listed some references simply to "assiettes," which would suggest
that the "grande" ones were a specific style. The distinction might be as
simple as saying "armholes" and "big armholes," assuming everyone at the
time knew what the "big" kind looked like.

I can't speak to the shape of the back armhole of Giovanna's gown. I just
got nose-to-nose with (1) my life-size poster reproduction of the painting
and (2) a close-up print published by the National Gallery. Both were too
dark to give me any clues. Given the angle at which she is standing,
though, I would wonder whether a line might be the actual seam or simply
the visible edge of the puffed-out surface of the sleeve. However, the
front armhole is clearly cut traditionally -- no deep circles there. I
think that alone would preclude us from saying she's wearing a "grande
assiette" cut. 

--Robin, getting verbose after midnight (too tired to edit)






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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 09:37:53 +0100
From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re. Favourite costumes in movies
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Christopher - (I take it 'here' means Australia?). A friend of mine who collects military uniforms and is quite knowledgeable thought that 'Hornblower' was well done.
Dawn - By the 'proper' version of 'Henry V' I take it you mean Olivier's? I think both versions are excellent in their own ways, Olivier's for the wonderful designs based on art of the period, Branagh's for the human realism and immediacy of the campaigning scenes (though of course it's absurd that the King doesn't wear armour).

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Movie inspiration
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 10:49:51 +0100
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-Poster: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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The BBC 'midsummer Night's Dream' with Helen Mirren as Titania. Looked =
to me as if it was inspired by Richard Dadd's paintings.
Joy
*************************************************************************=
*******************************************
"Balls! We want the finest wines available to humanity. We want them =
here, and we want them now."

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Caslon Antique" size=3D4>The BBC =
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Dream' with Helen Mirren as Titania. Looked to me as if it was inspired =
by=20
Richard Dadd's paintings.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Caslon Antique" =
size=3D4>Joy</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Caslon Antique"=20
size=3D4>****************************************************************=
****************************************************<BR>"Balls!=20
We want the finest wines available to humanity. We want them here, and =
we want=20
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Marionetta@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Marionetta@aol.com
> 
> If you're into Napoleonic costumes (and GUY costume movies) one of the best
> in my opinion is The Duelists, with Harvey Keitel.  Some of the costumes
> looked like they'd come straight out of the military museum in Paris.
> 
>This gets my vote in this category. Most of my Hussar clients decide they want to be one because of this film

Dawn


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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

SAQUEEN@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 10/20/99 6:58:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Marionetta@aol.com writes:
> 
> << I must have seen the A & E Pride and Prejudice at least 10 times so I
> guess
>  that counts.  I've got Immortal Beloved queued to my favorite scenes, yes,
>  yes I know it's not truly period, but despite any inaccuracies the dresses
>  are a refreshing change from the basic Regency white with their rich colors
>  and eastern influence.  Greta Satchi wears some beautiful gowns & wigs in
>  Jefferson in Paris. >>
> 
>
> 
> Cosprop would be interested in exhibiting costumes in the US. Email me
> offline for more details.
They now exhibit at museums around the country in the Uk. For those that
don't know Cosprop is the only decent costume house as the owner
actually  loves and respects clothing and his staff unlike the other
place which justwants to make a fast buck. The owner of Cosprop is a
designer in his own right as he codesigned Out of Africa among others
> 
Dawn
>  _________________________________________________________________
>


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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 10/20/1999 5:42:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> dawn.wood1@virgin.net writes:
> 
> << But he's [James Acheson] a lovely man who came up
>  through th ranks, and Bob Ringwood who is also not afraid to get in
>  there and sew himself unlike most of the designers I've worked with >>
> 
> Agreed. I've only worked with James but met Bob Ringwood here in Wilmington.
> Both very excellent designers and great people. Bob's costumes for "DUNE" are
> stored here [were stored here] in Wilmington because the studio was Dino
> deLauentes' then. They are magnificent! "Dune" is a horrible film with
> fantastic art direction. Each planet has a look with its foot firmly planted
> in an historical period.....which comments on the character of that planet.
> The Emperor's court has definite Spanish Inquisition overtones and the "good
> guys" evoke Nicholas & Alexandria.

I couldn't agree more. My friend Jenny worked with him on Batman whilst
at Angels and had a great time, He was particularly respected when he
was having trouble with Kim Basinger who never turned up for any of her
fittings or shopping. He apparently in the end was so fed up he stormed
into her hotel room and when she then didn't have time because she was
busy with her personal trainer told her to go and get her clothes
herself (only not so politely)and refused to deal with her. Too many
prima donnas in this business

Dawn


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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Robin Netherton wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> 
> Replying to two messages at once...
> 
> On Wed, 20 Oct 1999, Wanda Pease wrote:
> 
> > Robin, I have several closeups of the Arnofini Marriage picture, and a
> > slide of only the mirror.  Believe it or not the back of her dress is
> > very carefully painted and shows up well in the mirror.  Her sleves are
> > huge in back, in fact they seem to come off the base of her neck at
> > either side and curve way down, then out.  Would this be what you mean
> > by "grandes assiette manner?"
> 
> Mark wrote:
> 
> > How about cut deeply into the back as an angled piece, such as the Moy
> > Gown (http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/moy.html)
> 
> First, I should note that the post Wanda quoted was from the middle of a
> conversation; some of us had discussed this sleeve cut in some detail
> already. We were using the term to refer specifically to a
> late-14th-century armhole cut suggested on some men's short, fitted
> garments in illuminations, and seen clearly in the extant pourpoint of
> Charles de Blois (see Blanche Payne's or Stella Mary Newton's books for
> good images of this garment). I've never heard the term applied outside
> that fairly narrow context, and since we're being careful this week about
> not misusing terms, I myself wouldn't apply it to anything else -- not to
> an angled piece, and not to a woman's gown.
> 
> I wrote earlier about my belief that the deep cut was developed as a
> practical method of dealing with the back, chest, and shoulders of a
> heavily muscled man. I've found that to be the case in my own
> reconstructions -- I found the deep cut essential when I was fitting a man
> with strongly muscled shoulders, but never when I was fitting women or
> less-muscled men.  This is consistent with the fact that every example
> I've seen that might be this cut has been on a warrior or otherwise
> athletic young man. This need for shoulder flexibility seems to be
> intrinsic to the body shape; the men of my acquaintance who are built this
> way tell me tales of modern shirts that rip down the backs when they
> happen to stretch their arms forward, because of the expansion of the
> muscles; they have that problem with fitted costumes as well. An armorer
> friend of mine showed me a way to measure the expansion; he uses that
> measurement routinely when building armor for fighters. Now I use it when
> fitting athletic men. I found that on the back, the curved seam follows
> the line that separates the area of the back that does not "stretch" with
> arm motion from the area that does. That is, if you place your seam on the
> line dictated by the body movement, it produces the same "grande assiette"
> line as seen in the sources. I am attracted to the idea that there was a
> logical reason for developing such a weird-looking cut.
> 
> I see that in my last post I referred to the cut as being deep "in the
> back," but Charles' poupoint is cut deeply in the front as well, as was
> the one I made. I tend to think of the back because that's the area where
> I do my "expansion" measurements, but you need the flexibility in the
> front, too.
> 
It is interesting that the cut of  sleeves for arming garments is very
similar to the cut of sleeves for Napoleonic uniforms' i.e high under
the armpit, well over the shoulder bone and far front and back I
discussed this the clients I have of both periods and realised that this
is because the sword/fighting movements are identical in both these
periods.

Dawn

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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

Do any of you know anything regarding the accuracy of the costume in 
"Alexander Nevsky"?  My husband & I caught this on A&E for the first time 
last year & loved it!!
Could any of you point me towards a good source for researching Russian Garb?

Cheers!!
Pasha
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From: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
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-Poster: Sarah Toney <sarah_and_pooh@yahoo.com>

My DH refers to it as the "body of the goddess"... in
many wiccan references, the goddess is pictured has
having a rounded belly (symbol of fertility), not this
skinny barbie doll look... I have several friends who
are actually middle eastern dancers who all have that
kinda "pear-ish" shape.

Sarah


> >
> >*As for the size of the women - y'all know that
> different cultures have
> >different ideas on beauty. My husband (whom I've
> dragged to way too many
> >Belly Dance shows) believes the more "mature" body
> does the dance more
> >justice.
> >
> I've had a "mature" body, if by that you mean fat,
> since I was eight years
> old, but I never felt that I was getting the basic
> movement of Middle
> Eastern dance right until my third trimester of
> pregnancy.  It makes sense,
> considering that many people believe that the dance
> is actually a metaphore,
> or even a training method, for sexuality, pregnancy,
> and childbirth.  
> 
> 
> Margo


=====

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From: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)
Subject: H-COST: hornblower
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-Poster: pulliam@acadia.net (Deborah Pulliam)

<<I would argue that it is worth watching, but it is not Hornblower as
presented in the books. Clothing was generally good, but the kept crossing
periods (Naval and
Civilian).  >>

I'm a Hornblower fan (haven't seen the series, don't intend to), have all
the books, but I have to say, Forster didn't know his clothing, he made
some mistakes himself (but I doubt he made any about the navy or ships.)


Deborah


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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 14:17:46 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Treasure Trove!!
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Oooh!  

One of our Subject Librarians has just weeded her book stock and 
passed some stuff my way.

I've just been given a stack of back issues of "Costume: The journal 
of the Costume Society"... Issues No 3 to No 27... a quick glance 
through has shown up several articles by Janet Arnold.

Am I a Lucky Bunny or what?


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: film costumes (well, TV, but...)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 23:15:07 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> What about one of my favorite shows, Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman?

Dr Quinn was a slut...I mean, that hair!

-C.
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 23:18:16 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> >He cut 
> >down trees and brought them up to the 3rd floor shop so he could see what the 
> >colonials would look like in front of

Jeeze, did he wear a coon skin cap?

-C.
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: hornblower
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 00:37:08 +1000
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

Gotta agree that Forrester knew his maritime and history and had the sense
to usually keep details of the uniforms to a minimum [the occasional
reference to lace, epulettes (loved the use of plural in Beat to Quarters
giving us an idea of old Horny's time in the rank), and bad weather wear].
Mention of things such as gold coated rather than pure gold buttons and
steel shoe buckles when gold could not be afforded were nice touches,
though some of the descriptions of clothing throughout the books made one
wonder (just what the hell was Lady Barbara doing in THAT dress when...bah,
you know what I mean).

Am disappointed it is not THE Hornblower as in the books but will be
interested to see how the uniforms and other clothing match the supposed
time period. So, is it chronological, in order of publication, mix'n'match
or some goofy impressionistic variant of the stories?

-C.

> 
> <<I would argue that it is worth watching, but it is not Hornblower as
> presented in the books. Clothing was generally good, but the kept
crossing
> periods (Naval and
> Civilian).  >>
> 
> I'm a Hornblower fan (haven't seen the series, don't intend to), have all
> the books, but I have to say, Forster didn't know his clothing, he made
> some mistakes himself (but I doubt he made any about the navy or ships.)
> 
> 
> Deborah
> 
> 
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 10:31:48 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Deeply cut sleeves
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>>
>First, I should note that the post Wanda quoted was from the middle of a
>conversation; some of us had discussed this sleeve cut in some detail
>already...

Thank you for the recap, but it really wasn't necessary.  I just hadn't seen
anything previously posted that answered the question I asked.  Since I was
moving away from the "houpelande" concept (as the Moy Gown is NOT a
houpelande),
and asking a different question based on a similar concept - succinctly
stated 
in the material I referred to (which I did not cite since I didn't see any 
attribution to it in the message I was quoting), I changed the subject
heading.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 21 10:51:11 1999
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 12:03:20 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume in the movies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/20/1999 11:02:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
the_rogue@imag.net writes:

<< OH no!!  How am I going to convince my sweetie to give up the TV when 
hockey
 and resting are on?!  Auuugghh!
  >>

Championship resting???   ;-)
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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>


--------------077BDA1530A754A8FA854DAA
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> They now exhibit at museums around the country in the Uk. For those that
> don't know Cosprop is the only decent costume house as the owner
> actually  loves and respects clothing and his staff unlike the other
> place which justwants to make a fast buck. The owner of Cosprop is a
> designer in his own right as he codesigned Out of Africa among others
> >
>
Now I have just recently been in London and I didn`t know about them-
what a pity.Do they rent the costumes to theatres and film companies or
what do they do in particular ?
Does anybody have the adress ?
A friend of mine is going to London soon and she might be interested in
having a look.

Many greetings,
Diana


--------------077BDA1530A754A8FA854DAA
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>They now exhibit at museums around the country in the Uk. For those that
don't know Cosprop is the only decent costume house as the owner
actually&nbsp; loves and respects clothing and his staff unlike the other
place which justwants to make a fast buck. The owner of Cosprop is a
designer in his own right as he codesigned Out of Africa among others
></PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
Now I have just recently been in London and I didn`t know about them- what
a pity.Do they rent the costumes to theatres and film companies or what
do they do in particular ?
<BR>Does anybody have the adress ?
<BR>A friend of mine is going to London soon and she might be interested
in having a look.

<P>Many greetings,
<BR>Diana
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------077BDA1530A754A8FA854DAA--



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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 12:25:14 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/21/1999 7:44:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Mayfair13a@aol.com writes:

<< "Alexander Nevsky"?  My husband & I caught this on A&E for the first time 
 last year & loved it!! >>

And what a GREAT score! By Prokofiev. It's on CD....get it! NOW!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 21 11:15:21 1999
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 12:26:14 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/21/1999 10:10:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
stilskin@netspace.net.au writes:

<< Jeeze, did he wear a coon skin cap?
  >>

No....but he tried to get us to put one on some colonials.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 21 11:28:02 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Treasure Trove!!
Message-Id: <940524094.9270.945@excite.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 09:41:34 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> One of our Subject Librarians has just weeded her book stock and 
> passed some stuff my way.
> 
> I've just been given a stack of back issues of "Costume: The journal 
> of the Costume Society"... Issues No 3 to No 27... a quick glance 
> through has shown up several articles by Janet Arnold.
> 
> Am I a Lucky Bunny or what?

And where is it you live, exactly . . . ? 
*She says, smiling sweetly, innocent expression in her eyes . . .*

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 21 11:38:33 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: The Perfect Festival
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 09:51:53 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Now, why haven't I heard of this before? It sound like the ideal place for
folks on this list to flock to. History, costumes and CHOCOLATE! 

***************************************************

Feeding Frenzy At Chocolate Festival
Updated 8:12 AM ET October 21, 1999

  PERUGIA, Italy (Reuters) - It's a chocoholic's dream and a dentist's
nightmare. For one gluttonous week,
  Italy's self-styled chocolate city, Perugia, is hosting "Eurochocolate" --
a festival dedicated to the cocoa
  sweetmeat in all its forms.

  A fashion show at the "Sweet Tooth Theatre" displays chocolate-inspired
dresses, artists paint in molten
  chocolate, streets are transformed into mini-histories of chocolate.

  Peroxide blonde Italian girls in pseudo Dutch costumes sell hexagonal
rolls of Droste chocolate drops, while
  one counter is piled high with the famous nipple-shaped "Baci" ("Kisses")
sweets made by Perugia-based
  chocolate maker Perugina.

  The centerpiece of the Cedrinco stall is a giant chocolate and caramel
bonbon weighing a staggering 1.003 kg
  (2.2 lbs).

  A poster pasted to walls around Perugia extols the nutritional values of
the much-maligned delicacy. "Those
  in need of an energy boost should have a bar or cup of chocolate rather
than any other food -- it is so
  digestible that it can be absorbed in two hours," the poster says.

************************************** 

I simply must speak to my travel agent about professional discounts to Italy
. . . perhaps a perscription for a vacation from my MD? I am, after all, a
life-long hardcore chocolholic. It would be therapeutic . . . yeah, that's
it . . .

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 21 11:50:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 17:12:42 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Andrea Clef wrote:
> 
>      They now exhibit at museums around the country in the Uk. For those that
>      don't know Cosprop is the only decent costume house as the owner
>      actually  loves and respects clothing and his staff unlike the other
>      place which justwants to make a fast buck. The owner of Cosprop is a
>      designer in his own right as he codesigned Out of Africa among others
>      >
> 
> Now I have just recently been in London and I didn`t know about them-
> what a pity.Do they rent the costumes to theatres and film companies
> or what do they do in particular ?
> Does anybody have the adress ?
> A friend of mine is going to London soon and she might be interested
> in having a look.
> 
> Clothing is only rented to film and theatre not general public and she would need an appointment

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 21 13:24:55 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: fishnets
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com



Hi all,

Just got back from seeing the Brassai exhibit at the National Gallery.  He 
photographed Paris in the late 20s early 30s, with a lot of photos of 
''underground" Paris and portraits of the famous artists of the day.  Anyway, 
I noticed that several of the women in the pictures (one in an opium den and 
other in a brothel I think...) were wearing fishnet stockings and it got me 
wondering how long fishnets have been around.  Also, in these particular 
pictures they seemed to be worn by women of "questionable morals."  Has there 
long been an association with fishnets and risque women?  My books were 
silent on the subject, anyone know?

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Putting powder in pourpoints
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 12:38:48 -0700
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


	Marc & I have been conversing over a particularly mysterious &
problematic section of A. Harmand's "Jeanne d'Arc, ses costumes, son
armeur", ch. 10 "Gippon". The section involves putting powder into
pourpoints.  I'm reluctant to translate anything I don't understand, hence
the thread & the broader request for comments.

	In the conversation you will see abbreviations like: PP=pourpoint,
AH= A. Harmand, the author.

cin>> Were you interested in the paragraph [p. 120-1] speculating whether
powder is perfume, fungicide/flea 
>>powder or magical charm?  It's a curiosity, but few re-enactors would go
this far.

marc> No, but it's really interesting.  It's possibly also just decomposing
stuffing :)

cin> No way.  This stuff seems pricey.  40 livres tournois for a livre of
powder to put into pourpoints that are being made.  This is quite clear from
the footnotes where AH cites original, 1395 accounting records (bottom of p.
121).  
cin> Admittedly, I'm not clear what a livre (monetary) or a livre (weights &
measures) is.  I thought it was a gold coin, possibly cut w/ silver.  A
livre tournois is a livre from Tours. I've found a definition (16xx) that
says 1 livre tournois = 4/5 livre parisiens, but I cant be sure this is true
for 1395.

marc> Think "Pound", as in English pounds.  A livre is a french pound, and
like the English is based (theoretically) on a pound of silver.

cin> Ok, today an oz of silver is around $10.  $160.  
cin> And in weights & measures a livre is ... 16 oz.  A pound of powder
costing $160 in each pourpoint in 1395.  Now in a later ref, the pourpoint
itself cost XL s.p.  (40 solidi parisiens, I'm guessing. Any better ideas?)
The garment is a tenth or less of the cost of the powder.
cin> In a 1417 note, the PP cost III francs (same as a livre in money).
cin> That's some expensive goodie to put in clothes!  
cin> This must be why the costume police were after Jeanne d'Arc: vanity,
luxury or witchcraft.

marc> Cocaine.  Stuff the pourpoints with cocaine...

cin> ROFL!  Ah, and JofA got caught going thru customs.  Right!

marc>> Exactly.
marc>> Seriously though, that sort of priciness should be some clue as to 
marc>> it's purpose.  I've always been reluctant to buy into the
anthropology
marc>> cop-out of "it's a ritual object", but it is an easy answer
sometimes.

cin> Granted, that's why I suggested luxury & why AH suggests perfume.  I
cant see her suggestion of fungicide/insect repellant costing that much, but
maybe.  

marc>> It could depend on what they were using for insecticide :)

cin> This leaves her suggestion of witchcraft.  But what price a good spell?
cin> What would be the goal?  Luck in battle?  Fortune at court?  Charming
the chicks? Warding vs disease or demons?

marc>> There's always simple sorcery (as opposed to Witchcraft).  And if it
were of a sorcerous nature, then a high price would be normal (as opposed to
Witchcraft, which uses things one finds around the hovel)
marc>> But I've never heard of any spells involving dumping powder into
one's armor 
(and in all modesty, I know more about medieval magical practices than I do
about shoes :) )
marc>> OTOH, I might be able to find someone else to ask...

cin> I don't have any hint what the powdered PP were worn for; knowing this
would
cin> shed some small rays of light on the powder.  Maybe someone else does.
After
cin> all citations like "MdS to wear at his village of Bruges", probably
means
cin> something to a thorough-going historian. The red satin PP I would guess
is
cin> court, but I'm not clear on the luxury levels.  Why not a black satin
arming
cin> jack for the foppish?

marc>> Possibly.  Of course, there we have the problem of basing what we
know of
marc>> practice based on the actions of a specific minority.   For example,
if the powder
marc>> was of an occult nature, why would we have reports of it from both
Joan of Arc and
marc>> Charles of Blois - both people noted for their sanctity?

cin> Mind if I pull the whole "Putting powder in pourpoints" conversation &
post
cin> to h-costume?  Maybe we'll find someone with a brilliant insight or an
original source.

marc>> It's worth a shot.

So there you have it.  Brilliant insight?  Correction of cin's erroneous
assumptions?  Monetary values & clothing costs circa 1400?  An original
source? Relevant scholarly works?  Witty repartee?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 21 14:54:16 1999
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 13:08:13 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
>
>SNIP of really fascinating conversation>
>
>cin> Mind if I pull the whole "Putting powder in pourpoints" conversation &
>post
>cin> to h-costume?  Maybe we'll find someone with a brilliant insight or an
>original source.
>
>marc>> It's worth a shot.
>
>So there you have it.  Brilliant insight?  Correction of cin's erroneous
>assumptions?  Monetary values & clothing costs circa 1400?  An original
>source? Relevant scholarly works?  Witty repartee?
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes

Not "a brilliant insight or an original source":
Although I really like the idea of Joan of Arc getting busted for cocaine,
I'll make a different suggestion based on not very much period research.
Didn't someone recently write about decorating/painting clothing?  Could
the powder be powdered gold or silver for decoration?  Could "in
pourpoints" also be translated to be "on pourpoints"?

A total guess,  please don't laugh too loudly if this makes no sense
whatsoever.

LynnD
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 16:23:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dyeing quesion
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19991008194318.3a67648c@mail2.quiknet.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>



On Fri, 8 Oct 1999, Joan M Jurancich wrote:
> >What I would like to know is what color I should over dye it for something
> >more appropriate, and what kind of dye is reasonably easy to use for
> >someone without a kitchen or washer of her own (ie: living in a dorm).
> >
> >Many thanks in advance for any help or advice
> >
> >Emma
> 
> Well, which color to use depends upon what color you are hoping to achieve
> <g>. If you want to get away from greens, you would need to add red to it
> until you reach a nice rich brown. Or if you want a deeper green, you add
> black to it. 
> 
> Another way to proceed is to first strip the color out of the cloth with
> something like the color stripper from RIT. You then have a paler cloth to
> start from.
> 
> I have found an Artist's Color Wheel to be a valuable tool when I'm trying
> to decide what dye colors to use.

If you're at all curious about what happened, I got some red rit dye and
dyed the fabric earlier this week.  The kelly green side is a sickly
greenish brown, but the teal-ish side turned a nice dark royal purple.
Possibly a little too dark, if anything.  I figure I'll wash it once or
twice before buying the fabric that needs to compliment it, maybe it will
lighten a little.

At the same time, I dyed some hideous bright turquoise linen, it came out
a beautiful eggplant.  Luckily, I'm fond of purple.

Thanks again for the advice.
Emma

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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 18:45:41 -0500 (CDT)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Putting powder in pourpoints
In-Reply-To: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E63781EA1EC@scl-exch.phoenix.com>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


This isn't nearly as fun a response as cocaine or a magical charm, but... 
perhaps that pound of powder noted in the books was meant for a whole
bunch of pourpoints? You didn't quote the original passage, but your
phrasing on the translation made me think this: "40 livres tournois for a
livre of powder to put into pourpoints that are being made." One pound of
powder for multiple pourpoints, not a pound of powder for each. Is that
reading consistent with the rest of the text? 

I'm not sure whose books we're looking at, but if these payments were to a
tailor who routinely did work for this client, perhaps the client paid for
supplies in bulk. That is, you keep on hand a stock of powder (could be
perfume, maybe just talc to coat the inside layers for some practical
reason, anything), and you use a little in each pourpoint you make. When
you run out, you order another pound.

Do these same books also include bulk orders of pins? silk for edgings?
other supplies?

In any case, I would have trouble believing you could put a pound of ANY
kind of powder into a pourpoint. I believe records already make clear they
were made of multiple layers, and I believe they were also stuffed out
with interlayers of cotton wool or something similar, like a quilt. So
where would all this powder GO?

Alternatively: Does this entry show up on lots of different pourpoints? 
If not, maybe this one pourpoint was special -- and "powdered" all over
with little gold spangles (think the heraldic use of the word "powder"). 
It might take a pound of spangles to cover the surface. 

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 21 19:34:13 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: resting?
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 17:49:37 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Spell checkers and late night postings . . . . oops!  Sorry about that!

Wrestling.  I meant wrestling.  Really!

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: October 20, 1999 8:24 PM
Subject: H-COST: resting?


>
>-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
>
>The Rogue wrote:
>>
>> -Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>>
>> OH no!!  How am I going to convince my sweetie to give up the TV when hockey
>> and resting are on?!
>>
>
>Resting's a sport now? At last, something I'm qualified for!
>Olympics, here I come!  ;->
>
>
>Susan F.
>--
>Oh Noh! Kimonos!
>susanf@netwiz.net
>http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf

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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Putting powder in Pourpoints - original citations (translated)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 18:23:40 -0700
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


I've translated these original 14th c. citations as much as I can. The text
gets esoteric, heavily abbreviated and ungrammatical; all this with creative
orthography!

A. Harmand's "Jeanne d'Arc, ses costumes, son armeur", ch. 10 "Gippon",
1929. 
Notes from page 120:
	1.	1395 - "Jehan of Saligny apothecary living in Paris
confesses having received payment of 40 'livres tournois'[T1, T2] from Jehan
Poulain, treasurer to the Duke of Orleans. For which the said lord received
4 'livres'[T1] of powder to put in 4 satin pourpoints; 1 of vermilion and 3
others of black satin, to be made and delivered 'c'est assavoir a' Mons. de
Bourgoigne, to the Sieur of Tremoille, to M. Guill[aume] de la Tremoille,
his brother and to M. Elyan d Neilhac. [T3]", British Museum, Add. Chart.
2165.
	*	"Jehan of Saligny apothecary for 4 livres of powder to put
into 4 pourpoints dess.[T4] diz.[T5] at Xl. each 'livre'". [ibid.]
	*	"Receipt by Perrin Pillot, tailor of "robes" and valet de
chamber to the Duke of Orleans, to Jean Poulain treasurer to the Duke of
Orleans for 48 l. tournois for the making of two satin pourpoints made of
capiton[T6] and powder, the one for the Duke, the other for Louis de
Sancerre Mareschal of France; under his seal the 4th of March 1395", Bib.
Nat de France, fr 10431, p. 106.
	*	"Receipt by Jean de Saligny apothecary living in Paris, to
Jean Poulain, treasurer to the Duke of Orleans, for 20 'livres tournois' for
2 'livres' of powder at 10l the 'livre' in order to put in 2 black satin
pourpoints that the said Duke has had made, on 24 April 1395." [ibid.]

Translators notes: 
	T1. Livre a measure of weigh equal to 16 oz.; Livre a measure of
money.
	T2. Livre tournois, a livre [T1] coin from Tours, hence tournois,
valued approx 1/5 less than the livre of Paris. (source: Dictionaire de
l'Acadamie Francaise, 1694-1835.)
	T3. Likely "Mons" is an abbreviation for "Monsigneur", "M" for
"Monsieur", and "Guill" for "Guillaume".
	T4. Likely "dess." is short for either "dessus" or "dessous",
meaning "above/over" and "below/under", respectively. It is not clear which
is intended here.
	T5. "Diz." unknown, some possibilities: "des" (some), "dizane" (a
group of 10 things), a form of "dire" ( to say)
	T6. capit??? - the fax is unclear here. Likely this is: "CAPITON.
sub. m. Soye grossiere dont on se sert dans les ouvrages de tapisserie. Ce
n'est pas de la fine soye, ce n'est que du capiton.", Dictionaire de
l'Acadamie Francaise, 1694. (Capiton (noun, masc.) coarser silk that one
makes use of in tapestry. [e.g.] This is not fine silk, this is but
capiton.)
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 21:48:55 -0500
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>



----------
> From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
> Date: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 9:09 PM
> 
> -Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
> 
> >*I know most of you make your own costumes, but this lady has a handle
on a
> >"look" that very appropriate for "period" dance dressing:
> >
> >	http://www.mindspring.com/~whill/Ghazallah
> >
> As a note, if the period one is doing is pre-17th c, the bodice would not
> be cut under the bust. That is a mid-17th c fashion modeled after the
> European fashions of the time.  Also most of the trousers narrow >
down..........................snip...........................

Well, I didn't say accurate, :-)  but do you think this is a starting point
for costuming dancers in a more "period" look? Sure, back then they
probably danced in "every day" wear, but dancers really want a something
that will make them stand out as "dancers". The beaded Cabaret costumes
simply scream "Hollywood" but that is what many of the Ren performers base
their dress on because they also scream "dancer". It seems the dancers are
looking at the Fat Chance Belly Dance/American Tribal style as an
appropriate look, but it doesn't really work either.
 
Amanda

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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 22:40:24 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: grande assiette cut
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I think that Robin is right about the grande assiette cut being for heavily 
muscled, or at least extremely active, men with tight garments. My husband, 
who may not qualify as heavily muscled (he's tall and slim) but does qualify 
as extremely active, says the padded gambeson he made in this style is the 
best one he's ever worn. He says it pads the arm all the way around and no 
matter how you move it protects you and never bunches up or gaps.

Reading Robin's post gave us both a "eureka" moment. Not having anything to 
go by but the Charles the Blois pattern, he sort of made the arms in an 
arbitrary way. Now we have a way to measure it! So thanks again, Robin.

Gail (and Scott)

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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 20:38:11 -0800
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies and dancers
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>
>Well, I didn't say accurate, :-)  but do you think this is a starting point
>for costuming dancers in a more "period" look?

"More period" than what?  I assume you are talking SCA and Renn faires?
--Than cabaret, definitely yes, -- than American Tribal, I dunno, a bit
better I guess, but fine for theatrical presentation, -- than the "little
Egypt" look, I dunno, its as period as the undercut gawazee.

The green outfit was cut ok anyway... I'm sure the lady would cut necklines
above the bust if asked, and narrow cuffed trousers aren't hard to make at
all.

>Sure, back then they
>probably danced in "every day" wear, but dancers really want a something
>that will make them stand out as "dancers".

I don't have a problem with theatre, I have a problem calling it "period".

> The beaded Cabaret costumes
>simply scream "Hollywood" but that is what many of the Ren performers base
>their dress on because they also scream "dancer". It seems the dancers are
>looking at the Fat Chance Belly Dance/American Tribal style as an
>appropriate look, but it doesn't really work either.
>
>Amanda

I guess the question is "appropriate" for what?

Julie Adams



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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 11:58:53 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: Ren Faire belly dancers (was Gypsies and dancers)
In-Reply-To: <l03130304b4359856c152@[207.167.66.123]>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>>Well, I didn't say accurate, :-)  but do you think this is a starting point
>>for costuming dancers in a more "period" look?
>
>"More period" than what?  I assume you are talking SCA and Renn faires?

There were three groups of belly dancers at Northern Ren Faire this year.
One group dressed in modern pastels, Lurex, and coin-shaped metal
sequin-things (they looked like they'd rented their outfits).  The second
group wore all ethnic stuff, including large quantities of asuit (that
silver-bits-on-mesh stuff), real coins, etc.  The third group were the
dancers from Mullah's, and I don't know what they were wearing.  Then there
were the non-belly-dancers dressed in Middle-Eastern-oid Ren Faire clothes
(anywhere from what the patrons wore to what some of the folks at Ale 4
wore to the India-stuff the folks at the ethnic clothes booth wore).
Mileage varied considerably among this group.  

It would be interesting to know what category you would put each of these
groups into, re. being either Elizabethan-period or authentic
Middle-Eastern from any period.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 03:00:28 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 04:12:13 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dyeing quesion
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-Poster: Tigershado@aol.com

> > Another way to proceed is to first strip the color out of the cloth with
>  > something like the color stripper from RIT. You then have a paler cloth 
to
>  > start from.
>  > 

I went looking for linen lately and all I could find was some linen/cotton 
blend in colors I really didn't like. Well, I went ahead and bought some in a 
light purple with the idea of dyeing it. Threw it in the washer with some RIT 
color remover and it turned kind of beige. "Ahah!" I think, " This looks like 
it's going work great." Went back later to dye it and what do I find? On 
contact with air the fabric had turned light blue! From what little I've read 
on dye this sounds like how indigo works. Maybe some form of synthetic indigo 
in this case? This color I like, so I think I'll use it as is to make a leine 
for Faire (without gathered sleeves). 

IIRC several people have bought some of the wool gabardine from Phoenix 
Textiles. Has anybody tried washing some of it yet? My mother bought 10 yds 
each of the camel, berry, & blue and I haven't had a chance to do any test 
washing yet. Being from an area that only gets cold for a few weeks a year, 
this is my first contact with wool outside of US army blankets.

Barbara
(For email use tigershadow@freewwweb.com not my AOL address.)
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 09:32:11 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Treasure Trove!!
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> I've just been given a stack of back issues of "Costume: The
> journal of the Costume Society"... Issues No 3 to No 27... a quick
> glance through has shown up several articles by Janet Arnold. 

And where is it you live, exactly . . . ? 
*She says, smiling sweetly, innocent expression in her eyes . . .*

- ----
<laugh!>  Hi Kate,

I live in Wimbledon.... South West of London,  England.

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
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References: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E63781EA1EC@scl-exch.phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Putting powder in pourpoints
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 17:18:31 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

Cynthia wrote:
> Marc & I have been conversing over a particularly mysterious &
> problematic section of A. Harmand's "Jeanne d'Arc, ses costumes, son
> armeur", ch. 10 "Gippon". The section involves putting powder into
> pourpoints.  I'm reluctant to translate anything I don't understand, hence
> the thread & the broader request for comments.

Could you give me the exact French sentence in which this is mentioned? I
might have an idea.

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 10:41:04 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 11:04:22 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Putting powder in pourpoints
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

I think I see one of the problems here - when I said when you read "livre" to 
think "pound", I was referring to the money, not the weight.  In France in the
Middle Ages, a "Livre" was worth 240 Deniers or 24 Dizains.

Marc
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References: <l03130304b4359856c152@[207.167.66.123]>
 <199910220245.VAA10875@discordia.io.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 09:00:51 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ren Faire belly dancers (was Gypsies and dancers)
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
>
>>>Well, I didn't say accurate, :-)  but do you think this is a starting point
>>>for costuming dancers in a more "period" look?
>>
>>"More period" than what?  I assume you are talking SCA and Renn faires?
>
>There were three groups of belly dancers at Northern Ren Faire this year.
>One group dressed in modern pastels, Lurex, and coin-shaped metal
>sequin-things (they looked like they'd rented their outfits).  The second
>group wore all ethnic stuff, including large quantities of asuit (that
>silver-bits-on-mesh stuff), real coins, etc.  The third group were the
>dancers from Mullah's, and I don't know what they were wearing.  Then there
>were the non-belly-dancers dressed in Middle-Eastern-oid Ren Faire clothes
>(anywhere from what the patrons wore to what some of the folks at Ale 4
>wore to the India-stuff the folks at the ethnic clothes booth wore).
>Mileage varied considerably among this group.
>
>It would be interesting to know what category you would put each of these
>groups into, re. being either Elizabethan-period or authentic
>Middle-Eastern from any period.
>
>
>Kayta

This was not a written policy but those working the faire knew how this
worked as there were conversations that were made public, one way or
another.  The Mulla's people do what they do however they want because they
are Mulla's people, and that's ok because they've been grandfathered in.
The lurid, lurex pastel troup are there, not because they're so good, not
because they're historic but because the new Powers That Be feel that
that's what the public expects of belly dancers, forget Middle Eastern
dancers.  The ethnic group has been asked, from what we hear, to dress more
like belly dancers, so the patrons are happy.  These are contracted dance
troups that dance at the faires; they do not follow the rules set down for
participants.  I fear the difference may be hard to understand unless
you've been to a fair, so I apologize to those of you who have not.

Except for the court people and the military (and even the German group is
right but about 50-75 years too late) the participants themselves, on the
whole, are not really doing any research on their own clothing.  They
follow the guidelines set by the fairs.

As usual, look in books, go by portraits, don't depend on other peoples'
research unless you can back it up.

LynnD
Worked there for 21 years, took sabbatical this time around
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 09:23:35 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Sarees
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3023429015_86716_MIME_Part
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Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

For all of you who were interested in this subject I have been pointed to
the following website by the South Asian Librarian at UW.
http://www.shakti.clara.net/index.html
If you fish around some you can see how to wrap them, etc.
The illustrations - again you have to fish around a bit - are a lot more
realistic in terms of how people actually look in India unless they are very
wealthy than most of what I see in print.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

--MS_Mac_OE_3023429015_86716_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Sarees</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>For all of you who were interested in this subject I hav=
e been pointed to the following website by the South Asian Librarian at UW.<=
BR>
</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF"><U>http://www.shakti.clara.net/index.html<BR>
</U></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4">If you fish around some you can see how to wrap t=
hem, etc.<BR>
The illustrations - again you have to fish around a bit - are a lot more re=
alistic in terms of how people actually look in India unless they are very w=
ealthy than most of what I see in print.<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
http://www.rlshep.com<BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3023429015_86716_MIME_Part--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 11:45:11 1999
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 <199910220245.VAA10875@discordia.io.com>
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 10:04:38 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ren Faire belly dancers (was Gypsies and dancers)
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
>
>This was not a written policy but those working the faire knew how this
>worked as there were conversations that were made public, one way or
>another.  The Mulla's people do what they do however they want because they
>are Mulla's people, and that's ok because they've been grandfathered in.
>The lurid, lurex pastel troup are there, not because they're so good, not
>because they're historic but because the new Powers That Be feel that
>that's what the public expects of belly dancers, forget Middle Eastern
>dancers.  The ethnic group has been asked, from what we hear, to dress more
>like belly dancers, so the patrons are happy.  These are contracted dance
>troups that dance at the faires; they do not follow the rules set down for
>participants.  I fear the difference may be hard to understand unless
>you've been to a fair, so I apologize to those of you who have not.

Besides, some of the people who dance at the Mullah's are members of 
other guilds who dress in whatever they want to dance at the Mullah's.

As for the "cabaret" style dancers, well, maybe that's what RenCo 
thinks  the great unwashed expect or want, but Habiru, who dressed in 
Tribal stuff with asuit and minimal flesh exposure (hands, feet, and 
faces), never lacked for audience. In fact, the stage where they 
performed was always packed to very overflowing.

It's just another example of RenCo's bad judgment. I also think it 
was a mistake to cut down on the number and topics of pre-Faire 
classes required for performers. I think that the historical nature 
of the Faire, even though far from perfect, was one of the Faire's 
best points, and made it unlike many others around the US. RenCo, to 
make a buck or save a buck, are gradually gutting this Faire, which 
is the grandmother of all the US Renn Faires.

It seemed to me that many Faire participants were gradually 
"upgrading" their costumes to become more authentic - within limits, 
given the climate (hot and dusty) and the need to wash costumes 
(yeah, i know, some folks with really spiff costumes don't toss them 
in the washer, but after all the dust on the outside and sweat on the 
inside , since i'm upper middle class and in parades, i want to wash 
mine).

I mourn this turn away from even a vague semblance of authenticity 
and toward the evil god Love-of-Money. (yeah, a Faire's got to make a 
profit, but does the whole environment of the Faire have to suffer 
just for a few dollars more?)

Enough local politics.

I remember this Faire same back in 1970 when it had Flamenco dancers 
who were definitely not Elizabethan, but i also miss the rather 
authentic Commedia del Arte troupes who haven't been a regular part 
of the Faire for a long time.

Lilinah
who also "sat out" this year

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Treasure Trove!!
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 10:55:19 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

Photocopies?  Beg, beg..grovel, grovel.  

Michelle (one jealous bunny)



-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
I've just been given a stack of back issues of "Costume: The journal 
of the Costume Society"... Issues No 3 to No 27... a quick glance 
through has shown up several articles by Janet Arnold.

Am I a Lucky Bunny or what?

Teddy


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Treasure Trove!!
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>>
>> I've just been given a stack of back issues of "Costume: The journal
>> of the Costume Society"... Issues No 3 to No 27... a quick glance
>> through has shown up several articles by Janet Arnold.


>And where is it you live, exactly . . . ?
>*She says, smiling sweetly, innocent expression in her eyes . . .*
>
>Kate
Hey, Kate! Isn't that a ski mask and rope in your hand?  Why are you wearing
that black suit?

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 13:01:32 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: putting powder in pourpoints
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 11:15:32 -0700
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Henk> Could you give me the exact French sentence in which this is
mentioned? I might have an idea.

Bien sur M. 't Jong!
There are 4 separate entries.  I would love corrections to my translations.
The is my 1st shot at something this early. Please give it a go.  Note that
all I have is a transcription; any punctuation, abbreviations,
capitalizations, etc are as they appear in the footnotes of A. Harmand's
book. I do not use a french keyboard a cannot type the accents properly; I
have instead placed apostrophes after the letters to represent the accents
when they appear. Cedilla represented by *. So ugly. Sorry!

	1395 - << Jehan de Saligny apoticaire demourant a` paris confesse
avoir eu et recu de Jehan Poulain tresorier de monseigneur le duc d'Orle'ans
la somme de quarante livres tournois. En quoy le dit seigneur lui estoit
tenuz pour quatre livres de poudre que ycclui seigneur a fait prendre rachat
de lui pour mettre en quatre pourpoins de satin, l'un de satin vermeil et
les III autres de satin noir qu'il fait faire et deliverez c'est assavoir a
Mons. de Bourgoigne, au sire del le Tre'moille, a` messire Guill. del la
Tre'moille, son fre're et a` messire Elyan de Neilhac.>>  Brit. Mus., Add
Chart., 2165

	<<A Jehan de Saligny apotiquaire pour 4 livre de poudre pour mettre
es quat pourpoins dess diz. a' X l. la livre.>> [ibid.]

	<<Quittance par Perrin Pillot, tailleur de robes et valet de chambre
du duc d'Orle'ans a' Jean Poulain tre'sorier du duc d'Orle'ans de 48 l.
tournois pour la fac*on de  deux pourpoints de satin noir faits de capiton
et de poudre, l'un pour le duc, l'autre pour Louis de Sancerre Mareschal de
France; sour son sceau l 4 mars 1395.>> Bibl. nat., fr. 10431, p. 106

	<<Quittance par Jean de Saligni apothicaire demeurant a` Paris a'
Jean Poulan tre'sorier du duc d'Orle'ans de 20 livres tournois pour 2 livres
de poudre a' 10 l. la livre pour mettre en 2 pourpoints de satin noir que
ledit duc a fait faire; du 24 avril 1395.>>  [ibid.]

Again, I'm copying from A. Harmand's "Jeanne d'Arc, ses costumes, son
armeur", ch. 10 "Gippon", p.120, 1929. 
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Treasure Trove!!
Message-Id: <940616070.23582.276@excite.com>
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 11:14:30 PDT
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> >> I've just been given a stack of back issues of "Costume: The journal
> >> of the Costume Society"... Issues No 3 to No 27... a quick glance
> >> through has shown up several articles by Janet Arnold.
> 
> 
> >And where is it you live, exactly . . . ?
> >*She says, smiling sweetly, innocent expression in her eyes . . .*
> >
> >Kate


> Hey, Kate! Isn't that a ski mask and rope in your hand?  Why are you
wearing
> that black suit?
> 
> Michelle

Shhhhhhh!!!!! It's an authentic 17th century Highwayman's costume, with
appropriate props. Now, don't blow my entrance, I want Teddy to be . . . um
. . . surprised!


Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 21:15:57 +0200
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Hello all historical costumers.
I have been away for a while from this list, but now i am back again.
In the pastime i have finished an 18.th century sack dress with
pearlembroidery. You can se it if you go to my first homepage below and
clicks on the ball gown.
Now my project is to make a compleat 1770 mans suit for myself. I have
started the lace for the shirt and the cravat today with a new thread in
silk. The jacket and the waistcoat are also going to be embroidered all
over with a small motif i found at a museum in Lisboa.
Glad to be back.......
Bjarne Drews

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

R.L. Shep wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
> 
> Oddly enough *Bravo* is doing a whole week of best dressed movies.
> Tonight they did *Shanghai Triad* which was done by a Chinese Director and
> set in Shanghai in the 30s...   A wonderful mix of western and oriental and
> show-girl type costumes.

I was a little disappointed in Triad, but I'm re-watching
Pascali's Island (also on Bravo -- yes, watching TV in the
daytime! what luxury)  It has terrific costuming IMHO --
the designer is Pam Tait. I don't know the name, but that
doesn't mean anything.

Susan F.


-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 15:14:52 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 13:29:58 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: H-COST: Seams on German Ren Bodices
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

http://victorian.fortunecity.com/bacon/175/clandwo1.gif

Well.. that's the best example on my puter of what I'm trying to accomplish
:] German, 1475-1500-ish. (Yes, I know that's a bit later :] ) I'm having
problems getting the rounded bust line. All I can seem to get is the flat
front, momo-bosom thing going on. I'm curious if I should have a curved
centre front seam on my bodice, and curve the side seams in a bit as well.

If someone knows of a semi-decent pattern out there (not TOO expensive!),
or if there's a web site with an example, that would be the best.. but if
you think you can get me to understand directions written down, I'd really
appreciate that as well.

Thanks!

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 16:18:41 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 17:30:50 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Dawn --

You might be the person to answer this question. In past years, I noticed 
many costumes supplied by "Bermans & Nathans."  Now I see costumes supplied 
by "Angles and Bermans." Is this the same company? Was "B&N" bought out by 
Angel's? What's the story?

Thanks.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 16:49:30 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 18:03:32 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costuming in Movies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/22/1999 5:34:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Appin1@aol.com writes:

<< 
 Dawn --
 
 You might be the person to answer this question. In past years, I noticed 
 many costumes supplied by "Bermans & Nathans."  Now I see costumes supplied 
 by "Angles and Bermans." Is this the same company? Was "B&N" bought out by 
 Angel's? What's the story?
  >>

I can answer that one. Angels swallowed up Bermans while we were in the 
middle of filming Queen. It made wrap a little confusing.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 16:59:05 1999
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 07:09 PM 10/20/99 EDT, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com
>
>
>If you're into Napoleonic costumes (and GUY costume movies) one of the best 
>in my opinion is The Duelists, with Harvey Keitel.  Some of the costumes 
>looked like they'd come straight out of the military museum in Paris.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Loren Dearborn
>marionetta@aol.com
> _

A superb movie in every degree, as far as I am concerned.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 17:19:25 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: putting powder in pourpoints
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 15:31:53 -0700
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>

Marc>I think I see one of the problems here - when I said when you read
"livre" to 
>think "pound", I was referring to the money, not the weight.  In France in
the
>Middle Ages, a "Livre" was worth 240 Deniers or 24 Dizains.

Not to worry.  There are places where the text livre refers to weight and
others where livre is clearly cash as in "48 l. tournois". Ah, then the
mysterious "diz." could even be 1/10 of a livre, then?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 17:29:14 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 15:45:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: h-needlwork ?
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Can someone help me?  After being away for a month, I
am re-subcribing to my various lists, but h-needlework
keeps rejecting me!  Does anyone on this list know the
secret to subscribing?  I have the Majordomo address,
but it comes back saying something like, it doesn't
like my domain.  Well, it like it fine before! 
Thanks.

Kristen M. Sieber
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 17:30:55 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Ren Faire belly dancers (was Gypsies and dancers)
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 18:51:36 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

In response to an earlier comment about a middle eastern
dancer "earning her dowry coins" by dancing in the street,
I'm curious where this idea came from and what culture.  In
the Turkish Ethnographic Museum in Bursa, there is a series
of bridal garments depicted for the eighteenth century, each
one of which involves a good deal of coinage.  These are the
wedding costumes of virgins who remained all of their lives
in seclusion.  Painters visiting Turkey were only able to
paint the rare female dancer, as no other women (the vast
majority, rich or poor) were shielded from males eyes.
(Hence so few depictions of women among hundreds of images
of men.)  If any of the brides had danced in the street, it
would have disqualified them for marriage.  The coins have a
symbolism that extends beyond the dancer.  The h-cost writer
makes a great story, but is there any shred of historic
authencenticity  to it?  It is not a subject I know much
about, admittedly.

Hope H. Dunlap





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 18:16:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 16:32:50 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Masques
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

I have seen one or two pictures showing people in masque clothing,
Elizabeth I included.  But I was wondering if someone could give me
just some general pointers about pre-1600 masques.

1.  Were masques popular *before* 1500, say 1350?

2.  Were masks worn

3.  Would all clothing norms have flown out the window so to speak?
For instance if the masque took place in Elizabeth's court would women
have chosen not to wear their corsets if the outfit was say, Greek in
the year 300c.e. ?

4.   What types of themes might have been popular?

Thanks,
Merouda/Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 18:40:09 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Deeply Cut Sleeves (Pourpoints & Houppelands)
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

This is cool! I've only seen this sleeve and shoulder construction with men's
14th cent.

Raella

Marc Carlson wrote:

> -Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
> > >I would use the term "grande assiette" to refer to an armhole that's
> > >deeply cut into the body at the back in a large circular shape. Is that
> > >what you're seeing?  I suppose there's no reason you couldn't use that
> > >armhole with a bag sleeve, though I'd have to see an example to get a
> > >sense of how it might be cut. >
>
> How about cut deeply into the back as an angled piece, such as the Moy
> Gown (http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/moy.html)
>
> Marc

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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 17:06:22 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Masques
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

Merouda, I can speak for Elizabethan England with some expertise but that's
all I can guarantee that my knowledge covers correctly.

>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>I have seen one or two pictures showing people in masque clothing,
>Elizabeth I included.  But I was wondering if someone could give me
>just some general pointers about pre-1600 masques.
>
>1.  Were masques popular *before* 1500, say 1350?
>
>2.  Were masks worn
>
>3.  Would all clothing norms have flown out the window so to speak?
>For instance if the masque took place in Elizabeth's court would women
>have chosen not to wear their corsets if the outfit was say, Greek in
>the year 300c.e. ?

In Elizabethan England, the women would have work a chiton over their court
clothes - corsets, hoops and all.  No noblewoman would be seen without her
proper underclothing producing the correct silouette (sp?), even for a
masque.
>
>4.   What types of themes might have been popular?

Religious for the populace (think of the mystery plays so popular from
pre-Chaucer times through Shakespeare - although I guess those would be
called mummer's plays) and religious and classical for the nobles (Greek
and Roman stories of gods and goddesses, Odyssey,  masques for the queen
comparing her to Venus, Athenae, that sort of stuff).

Shakespeare writes of plays within his plays.  Think of the masque for the
wedding in "Midsummer Night's Dream", where they do indeed wear masks, esp.
for Bottom.

Speaking of which, did anyone see the PBS program combining the Boston
Pops, opera and the Shakespeare and Company actors, all combining to see an
interdisciplinary program of Shakespeare? On last night in the S.F Bay
area. We let the kids stay up to watch it all.)  It was wonderful to see a
scene from "Romeo and Juliet" with the ballet music playing in the
background and then seeing two people in more modern clothing singing from
"West Side Story".  I hope you all can see this wonderful program.  I know
the Shakespeare side, but my opera education is slim - and "Othello" was
very powerful, both in the spoken word and in the opera bit.
>
>Thanks,
>Merouda/Cynthia
>
This only answers half your question.  You'll need help from the
medievalists for pre-1550.

LynnD
Rambling a bit, sorry
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 19:14:24 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 17:25:32 -0700
From: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
Organization: Well, I wouldn't call it organized......
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Seams on German Ren Bodices
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-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>

Kris wrote:

> -Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
>
> http://victorian.fortunecity.com/bacon/175/clandwo1.gif

Dear Kris,

I have to ask firstly if you are trying to make your dress a
historically researched work or if you just want the look that you see
in this picture.  If the former is the case, then I recommend that you
don't use this picture.  It not a good resource because it is an Italian
artists version of a German gown that has been re-drawn.  The partlet
(the cape-like thing on her shoulders) isn't a bad example, but the
reality pretty much ends there.

If the latter is true, I am not sure how to help you fit your bodice.
In this particular example, it is difficult to see what is going on in
the bodice and whatnot.  All I can suggest is that you look at your
friendly local book of paintings by Hans Holbein.  He was a German
painter who did a few paintings and drawings of Burgher's and their
wives in Germany.  The pictures might be similar to what you are looking
for and give better details on what is going on in the bodice.

> Well.. that's the best example on my puter of what I'm trying to
> accomplish
> :] German, 1475-1500-ish. (Yes, I know that's a bit later :] ) I'm
> having
> problems getting the rounded bust line. All I can seem to get is the
> flat
> front, momo-bosom thing going on. I'm curious if I should have a
> curved
> centre front seam on my bodice, and curve the side seams in a bit as
> well.
>
> If someone knows of a semi-decent pattern out there (not TOO
> expensive!),
> or if there's a web site with an example, that would be the best.. but
> if
> you think you can get me to understand directions written down, I'd
> really
> appreciate that as well.

As far as I know, there aren't any good German Renn (or earlier)
patterns out there.  You might (after finding a more detailed example of
the style) want to just take a pattern from another country/time period
and see if you can modify it.  I do this quite often and it usually
works fairly well.  Just make a muslin pattern and add what you think
might be the significant changes.  Then fit it to your shape and recut
your pattern and fit it again.  Repeat until you get the look you want.
Usually once or twice will do it.

Good luck & HTH!

Diana :~>

--

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
"There are too many mediocre things in life to deal with.....Love
shouldn't be one
 of them."
--Ione Skye in "Dream for an Insomniac"


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 21:09:43 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Masques
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/22/1999 8:08:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ldownward@chori.org writes:

<< Shakespeare writes of plays within his plays.  Think of the masque for the
 wedding in "Midsummer Night's Dream", where they do indeed wear masks, esp.
 for Bottom.
  >>

A more typical masque is presented in "The Tempest"...where spirits represent 
Juno, Ceres, Iris and other allegorical characters. It's a bit later but the 
operas of Monteverdi are obviously recently derived from masques. "L'Orfeo" 
opens with a prologue sung by "La Musica". The begining of "L'Incoronazione 
Di Poppea" has a duel between  "Fortuna", "Virtù" and "Amore". Pastoral 
scenes are popular [lots of this in "L'Orfeo"] Both of these operas are on 
video, with costumes early 17th century. Lot's of Roman armor with full 
bottomed wigs.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 21:13:39 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: film costumes (well, TV, but...)
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 11:51 PM 10/19/99 -0500, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote:
>
>-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
>
>This is TV, but it's historical, so....
>
>What about one of my favorite shows, Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman?
>
>I realize that her attitudes would not have been the norm at that time
>period, but what about the clothes?  Women's in particular?  As far as I
>could tell, they at least were all somewhat corsetted.  You do get to see
>the underwear in some episodes.
>
>There was one two-parter about midway thru the series run when the family
>went to Washington DC to get a pardon or something for Sully.  In the
>course of the two episodes, there were THREE White House balls - talk about
>acres of hoopskirts!
>
>I'm interested in the opinions of those who know - as opposed to yours
>truly who mostly does fantasy stuff.
>
>Sandy

I have only seen one or two episodes (no TV at home). But my first
impression was a blending of about 40 years of women's fashions into one
show. The shirtwaist (modern term is blouse) and skirt combination became
widespread in the 1890s. Large hoop skirts went out by the end of the 1860s.
And the medical knowlege seemed a bit too advanced for the apparent time period.

All in all, it's not historical, though the costumes are nice in their own way. 

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 21:20:04 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 19:36:05 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
>I have to ask firstly if you are trying to make your dress a
>historically researched work or if you just want the look that you see
>in this picture.  If the former is the case, then I recommend that you
>don't use this picture.  It not a good resource because it is an Italian
>artists version of a German gown that has been re-drawn.  The partlet

Yeah.. I know it's not a good example :] I have all sorts of photocopies
here at home, but with no scanner, I can't get them up onto my site.. I've
found another that's *slightly* better.
http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE34AX.HTML

You see how the bust is being supported somewhat in a Victorian shape? (I
know that could be part of the re-drawing of the figures in the book :] But
I've seen it in a couple of library books too..) *that's* what I want. The
sleeves are the way I've got mine done, and I'd REALLY appreciate it if
someone could point me towards the original for this drawing. PLEASE! :]

I'm finding that I have a major problem getting the curve of the bust. I'm
having one heck of a time fitting it. I know what style of bodice I need,
and I've got the sleeves and the shoulder area down pat, but that one,
important spot is driving me nuts! The one I made last weekend ended up
having a somewhat flat front on it, that I had to bone it because it was
wrinkling so badly. And I used canvas and about 5 or 6 pieces of heavy
interfacing basted together. *sigh* It looks good, but it's not what I was
trying to achieve.

Kris

ps.. I've seen many portraits of the young women having a sheer shawl
tucked around their neckline into the top of the bodice when the bodice is
very low cut. I think the pictures were italian or dutch, but could that
apply to a young german girl too?

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-Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>

I think we would ALL LOVE YOU if you would share with us !  I know I would.
PLEASE   PLEASE  PLEASE !!!!
If not on the list, then maybe personal email ?

Diane  ( new at this and needing help ! )
----- Original Message -----
From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Friday, October 22, 1999 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Treasure Trove!!


>
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
> Photocopies?  Beg, beg..grovel, grovel.
>
> Michelle (one jealous bunny)
>
>
>
> -Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> I've just been given a stack of back issues of "Costume: The journal
> of the Costume Society"... Issues No 3 to No 27... a quick glance
> through has shown up several articles by Janet Arnold.
>
> Am I a Lucky Bunny or what?
>
> Teddy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 22:46:43 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 22:58:49 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: RE: putting powder in pourpoints
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>>
> Not to worry.  There are places where the text livre refers to weight > and others where livre is clearly cash as in "48 l. tournois"...

Curiously, there is a possibility that "livre tournais" could refer to
a  unit of weight, since the different regions had different standards
of weight (the ultimate reason for the French developing the metric
system).

> Ah, then the mysterious "diz." could even be 1/10 of a livre, then?

Although this is possible too.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 23:01:41 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: h-needlwork ?
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 03:45 PM 10/22/99 -0700, Kristen Morgaine Sieber wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
>
>Can someone help me?  After being away for a month, I
>am re-subcribing to my various lists, but h-needlework
>keeps rejecting me!  Does anyone on this list know the
>secret to subscribing?  I have the Majordomo address,
>but it comes back saying something like, it doesn't
>like my domain.  Well, it like it fine before! 
>Thanks.
>
>Kristen M. Sieber

Kristen,

At the end of my h-needlework messages is the following message:

Go to http://lists.ansteorra.org/lists.html to perform mailing list tasks.

Have you tried this yet?

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 22 23:06:50 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 23:02:15 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Deeply Cut Sleeves (Pourpoints & Houppelands)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>>
> This is cool! I've only seen this sleeve and shoulder construction 
> with men's 14th cent.

That's what I thought as well, although I have now seen a few
paintings  (the citations for which have wandered off this evening)
with this sort of cut on woman's gowns.  The range of arm movement,
though is really interesting.

Marc
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 19:23:46 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Seams on German Ren Bodices
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
>
>http://victorian.fortunecity.com/bacon/175/clandwo1.gif
>
>Well.. that's the best example on my puter of what I'm trying to accomplish
>:] German, 1475-1500-ish. (Yes, I know that's a bit later :] )

and its Swiss....

 I'm having
>problems getting the rounded bust line. All I can seem to get is the flat
>front, momo-bosom thing going on. I'm curious if I should have a curved
>centre front seam on my bodice, and curve the side seams in a bit as well.

Yes.

Julie Adams


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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ren Faire belly dancers (was Gypsies and dancers)
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>It would be interesting to know what category you would put each of these
>groups into, re. being either Elizabethan-period or authentic
>Middle-Eastern from any period.
>
How about "entertainment for the masses"? :-)


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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 22:38:41 -0700
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From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Ren Faire belly dancers (was Gypsies and dancers)
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>
>In response to an earlier comment about a middle eastern
>dancer "earning her dowry coins" by dancing in the street,
>I'm curious where this idea came from and what culture.

(snip interesting stuff Hope says about Turkey)

Additionally, from what i know of the Near East (North Africa), 
daughters would not have been dancing in the streets for money, 
except perhaps for a few women from a very few tribal or sub-cultural 
groups, such as the Ouled Naïl, the Gnawa, and one or two others 
which may specialize in dancing (and are often considered to be low 
class for it).

While the coins decorating some garments and accessories are indeed 
part of a woman's dowry, by no means did the average girl earn them 
by dancing for money. Her family saved up for her dowry. Some of her 
labor may have been involved, if the women in her region or tribe 
wove or made ceramics or helped harvest crops or helped take care of 
the flocks, but certainly not by public displays.

I've seen some late 19th and early 20th c. art by Western educated 
North Africans, and generally women are depicted dancing only with 
other women in the privacy of their home, not in front of men, even 
family.

>The coins have a
>symbolism that extends beyond the dancer.  The h-cost writer
>makes a great story, but is there any shred of historic
>authencenticity  to it?

I suspect a bit of fantasy courtesy of 19th and early 20th c. 
European exoticists. This trend is illustrated by many of the 
paintings in "Serpent of the Nile", which show women dancing half 
naked in public - like that nearly naked nubile Bedouin girl dancing 
on a rug in the middle of the desert half-surrounded by older men - 
NOT at all the way Bedouins behave!  These are the fantasies of 
European men - and the artists may have paid some "not so nice" women 
to pose for them, but it doesn't represent what was really happening 
in the culture nor how the average young woman behaved, as the author 
of  "Serpent of the Nile" points out.

Anahita Gauri bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi

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Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 09:42:41 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 10/22/1999 5:34:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Appin1@aol.com writes:
> 
> <<
>  Dawn --
> 
>  You might be the person to answer this question. In past years, I noticed
>  many costumes supplied by "Bermans & Nathans."  Now I see costumes supplied
>  by "Angles and Bermans." Is this the same company? Was "B&N" bought out by
>  Angel's? What's the story?
>   >>
> 
> I can answer that one. Angels swallowed up Bermans while we were in the
> middle of filming Queen. It made wrap a little confusing.

they certainly did and what a big mouth Tim Angel has. I was working on
some costumes for the musical Blue Angel at the time which had been
ordered by Bermans. I went in on the friday for fittings and then on the
Monday to deliver imagine my horror, sorry surprise to see Angels had
moved in. Particularly when Tim said that they wouldn't pay for any work
oredered by Bermans!!!

Dawn 


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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Ren Faire belly dancers (was Gypsies and dancers)
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 09:26:16 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Thanks for this very informative answer.  The take on
exoticism in Western 19th century painters attitudes makes a
lot of sense to me!  I think the attitudes, rumors, and
twisting of information of subsequent generations is as
interesting and meaningful in its own way as the original
"facts" --- just helpful to differentiate one from the
other.  By the way, my original post should have referred to
the bridal costumes in the Bursa Ethnographic Museum as
nineteenth century, not eighteenth.

Hope H. Dunlap



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Lilinah biti-Anat
> Sent: Saturday, October 23, 1999 1:39 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: H-COST: Ren Faire belly dancers (was Gypsies and dancers)
>
>
>
> -Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
>
> >-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
> >
> >In response to an earlier comment about a middle eastern
> >dancer "earning her dowry coins" by dancing in the street,
> >I'm curious where this idea came from and what culture.
>
> (snip interesting stuff Hope says about Turkey)
>
> Additionally, from what i know of the Near East (North Africa),
> daughters would not have been dancing in the streets for money,
> except perhaps for a few women from a very few tribal or sub-cultural
> groups, such as the Ouled Naïl, the Gnawa, and one or two others
> which may specialize in dancing (and are often considered to be low
> class for it).
>
> While the coins decorating some garments and accessories are indeed
> part of a woman's dowry, by no means did the average girl earn them
> by dancing for money. Her family saved up for her dowry.  Some of her
> labor may have been involved, if the women in her region or tribe
> wove or made ceramics or helped harvest crops or helped take care of
> the flocks, but certainly not by public displays.
>
> I've seen some late 19th and early 20th c. art by Western educated
> North Africans, and generally women are depicted dancing only with
> other women in the privacy of their home, not in front of men, even
> family.
>
> >The coins have a
> >symbolism that extends beyond the dancer.  The h-cost writer
> >makes a great story, but is there any shred of historic
> >authencenticity  to it?
>
> I suspect a bit of fantasy courtesy of 19th and early 20th c.
> European exoticists. This trend is illustrated by many of the
> paintings in "Serpent of the Nile", which show women dancing half
> naked in public - like that nearly naked nubile Bedouin girl dancing
> on a rug in the middle of the desert half-surrounded by older men -
> NOT at all the way Bedouins behave!  These are the fantasies of
> European men - and the artists may have paid some "not so nice" women
> to pose for them, but it doesn't represent what was really happening
> in the culture nor how the average young woman behaved, as the author
> of  "Serpent of the Nile" points out.
>
> Anahita Gauri bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi
>
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 23 10:55:47 1999
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Sally Ann Chandler wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Sally Ann Chandler" <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk>
> 
> Have you tried Tom Norbury?  He can manage most things and will be at the
> Re-enactors Market at Oxford next month. 
As far as I know Tom doesn't make hats himself he ges them made at the
factory in Luton we buy our felts from. They can't make cszapskas which
are extremely complicated and not very cost effective as the demand
these days is not great enough Andrew actually spoke to them about
making the hats for him but they weren't interested. The only other
company that makes them is an MOD company which doesn't do retail they
are also made from flocked fibreglass which is why the army have now
decided to go back to the original method of manufacture as the
regiments don't like the fibreglass ones.

Dawn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 23 10:56:00 1999
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

teddy1 wrote:
> 
> -Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> 
> > I've just been given a stack of back issues of "Costume: The
> > journal of the Costume Society"... Issues No 3 to No 27... a quick
> > glance through has shown up several articles by Janet Arnold.
> 
> By the way I've been meaning to ask which bit of middlesex Uni are you in. I used to be costume technician/pt lecturer with the BAPA students at Trent Park when it was still the polytechnic

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 23 12:40:56 1999
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-Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>

At 15.17 +0100 99-10-21, teddy1 wrote:
<snip>
>I've just been given a stack of back issues of "Costume: The journal
>of the Costume Society"... Issues No 3 to No 27... a quick glance
>through has shown up several articles by Janet Arnold.
>
>Am I a Lucky Bunny or what?

	No, you are a very naughty, indeed evil, bunny, saying things like
that straight out without preparing us first. The more sensitive of us
might get a heart attack from the shock (or possibly from the envy :-)

/Ninni

------------------------------------------------------------
"How I loathe haste and violence and all that ghastly, slippery cleverness.
Unsound, unscholarly, insincere - nothing but propaganda and special
pleading and 'what do we get out of this?' No time, no peace, no silence;
nothing but conferences and newspapers and public speeches till one can't
hear one's self think." -- Lord Peter Wimsey c. 1935
------------------------------------------------------------
Ninni M Pettersson --- Stockholm, Sweden --- vidumavi@swipnet.se


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 23 13:15:24 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E63781EA3C9@scl-exch.phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: putting powder in pourpoints
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 17:29:01 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hello,

Cynthia wrote:
> There are 4 separate entries.  I would love corrections to my
translations.
> The is my 1st shot at something this early. Please give it a go.  Note
that
> all I have is a transcription; any punctuation, abbreviations,
> capitalizations, etc are as they appear in the footnotes of A. Harmand's
> book. I do not use a french keyboard a cannot type the accents properly; I
> have instead placed apostrophes after the letters to represent the accents
> when they appear. Cedilla represented by *. So ugly. Sorry!
>
I confess I'm flabbergasted. I've never heard of putting powder in
pourpoints before and I thought maybe the translation wasn't correct. It
seems to be allright, though (well done, Cynthia, only a few question marks,
see below).  'Poudre' is quite close to 'foudre' and 'fourre' which can mean
'lining with fur', or 'fourni' which might mean 'filled with something'. It
still may be a mistake in the transcription, but this seems to be a bit
farfetched, although these things happened quite frequently while rewriting
medieval mss in modern languages.

Of course 'poudre' might be powdered gold, which they had, to decorate the
pourpoints, although I've never heard of late 14th c pourpoints being
decorated in this way.

As Robin suggested it might also be golden objects being 'powdered' or
stitched in a repeating pattern over the finished garment, but I think this
would have been written down differently. It's not really period either.

> 1395 - << Jehan de Saligny apoticaire demourant a` paris confesse (this is
more 'acknowledging' than 'confessing')
> avoir eu et recu de Jehan Poulain tresorier de monseigneur le duc
d'Orle'ans
> la somme de quarante livres tournois. En quoy le dit seigneur lui estoit
> tenuz pour quatre livres de poudre que ycclui seigneur a fait prendre
rachat
> de lui pour mettre en quatre pourpoins de satin, l'un de satin vermeil
(more like rose-red, vermillion = vermillion or firy red, vermeil might even
mean mingled) et
> les III autres de satin noir qu'il fait faire et deliverez c'est assavoir
a
> Mons. de Bourgoigne, au sire del le Tre'moille, a` messire Guill. del la
> Tre'moille, son fre're et a` messire Elyan de Neilhac.>>  Brit. Mus., Add
> Chart., 2165
>
This really looks like the apothecary has sold 40 livres worth of powder (or
4 pounds in weight) to put on or in pourpoints. He would not sell fur and
although he might make powdered gold (which was sometimes used as a part of
medicine) I can only assume that the powder was used between the layers of
cloth pourpoints consisted of. To kill vermin if and when encountered? Beats
me...

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 23 21:35:35 1999
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Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 19:52:10 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: H-COST: What are the pieces? Victorian Basque..
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

I'm trying to make this to wear in 2 weeks!
I've drawn everything out & have the front (1) fitting perfectly. However,
I can't really figure out what the rest of the pieces are.. Help! :]

This is a teensy pic.. 12 kb gif file, so anyone should be able to load it..
http://victorian.fortunecity.com/bacon/175/glb1-57dip2.gif

1 - Well, it can only be the front :]
2 - I think that this is the back. With the flat line on the bottom being
the part cut on the fold.
3 - I think that this is the "skirt" part of the basque. Attached at the hip..
4 - the collar?
5 - the sleeve?

This is what the finished product is supposed to resemble (it's a little
bigger)
http://victorian.fortunecity.com/bacon/175/glb1-57di2.gif

I'm going to continue making up the muslim as what I think the pieces are,
and find out by trial and error. Of course, having someone tell me what is
supposed to be sewn to what is much easier :]

Thank you!
Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 23 21:53:15 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 20:24:00 -0600
From: Elizabeth Lee <elee@xpert.net>
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-Poster: Elizabeth Lee <elee@xpert.net>

Sorry it took so long to reply, again, catching up on back posts, and also
_finding_ the pattern.

I am also wrong about it being Simplicity (tho' I think they do have a similar
one). The one I have is Butterick See 'n' Sew 3986.

I add about 12-15 inches to the length of the pattern, and widen from the hips to
the width of the doubled-over material (so I am cutting 2 pieces at the same
time).  This works on both 44" and 60" material. (of course you will get a fuller
skirt with the 60" material)

Elysant@aol.com wrote:

> -Poster: Elysant@aol.com
>
> -Poster: <Elysant@aol.com>
>
> >I have also found one of the "It's so Easy" simplicity patterns for a modern
> day
> >dress, 8-gore with princess seams, that was easily adapted to a cotehardie
> >pattern

<snip>

> If I find the pattern envelope, I will >post the number (if people are
> interested).

> Could you please?
>
> Thanks
>
> Elysant

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: What are the pieces? Victorian Basque..
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 07:52 PM 10/23/99 -0700, Kris wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
>
>I'm trying to make this to wear in 2 weeks!
>I've drawn everything out & have the front (1) fitting perfectly. However,
>I can't really figure out what the rest of the pieces are.. Help! :]
>
>This is a teensy pic.. 12 kb gif file, so anyone should be able to load it..
>http://victorian.fortunecity.com/bacon/175/glb1-57dip2.gif
>
>1 - Well, it can only be the front :]
>2 - I think that this is the back. With the flat line on the bottom being
>the part cut on the fold.

Yes. "Seam" D is the center back, cut on the fold.

>3 - I think that this is the "skirt" part of the basque. Attached at the hip..

Yes. It is cut with the back of the ruffle on the fold. But note that the
description with the basque illustration says that the "front of the skirt
is not so deep as the back". It seems that the pattern is incorrect since it
labels both the front and back "seams" as 9 in. Perhaps the back "seam"
should be 10 in. and the Piece 5 should be a ruffle in the back of the skirt.

>4 - the collar?

No. Piece 4 is the side back; that curved part at the bottom is the lower
part of the armscye. The seam labeled "C 12 in." attaches to the curved seam
labeled "C 12 in." on Piece 2.  The seam labeled "B 9 in." attaches to the
side seam of the front Piece 1, which is also labeled "9 in.".

>5 - the sleeve?

This is the confusing one. The description with the picture of the basque
indicates that there are two pieces for the skirt and doesn't mention the
sleeve. But Piece 5 mentions "sleeve" on two of the four sides of the
pattern; but I don't see how one can get a sleeve head of any sort out of
that pattern, even if you put the straight line on the fold. Too bad that
there is no illustration of the back of the basque.

>I'm going to continue making up the muslim as what I think the pieces are,
>and find out by trial and error. Of course, having someone tell me what is
>supposed to be sewn to what is much easier :]
>
>Thank you!
>Kris

At least I could help with Piece 4 <g>. You need to make your own pattern
for the collar and, if my guess about Piece 5 being part of the skirt is
correct, the sleeves (which might be simpler to do than fuss with Piece 5
and try to make a sleeve out of it). If you have Jean Hunnisett's "Period
Costume for Stage & Screen, Patterns for Women's Dress 1800-1909", she has a
sleeve pattern that looks like the sleeve on the basque.

Good luck,

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 00:17:54 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: I did it!
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Hi everyone!  I met this weekend with the potential investor for my costume
pattern business, and we shook hands on the deal this afternoon. (In the
parking lot at a Ren Faire, which seems appropriate).  We're on our way!

I want to thank everyone on this list who helped me gather information for
my business plan, who suggested names,  who prayed for me,  sent encouraging
messages, and for all the other wonderful support and help I've gotten.  

Also, thanks to the list mistresses, past and present, who've kept this list
going and given me a place to learn and grow and gain confidence.  Three
years ago, I wouldn't have felt capable of doing this project:  Now, thanks
to all of you, I've got a shot at making my dreams come true. 

This is sounding like an Oscar speech, I know, but I had to tell all of you
how very grateful I am for your help.  I know that I'll be asking for, and
getting, much more over the next year or so, while I work to bring the
product to market.  

Thanks to all of you,

Margo Anderson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 01:35:17 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: putting powder in pourpoints
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 23:52:45 -0700
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello,

I have just picked up this thread, and think I may have an alternate answer
(at the risk of sounding out to lunch!)for the "powder".  Perhaps it is duck
or goose down?  I recall some reference to the down as "powder", and I wish
I could remember where!

Zelda



-----Original Message-----
From: Henk 't Jong - tScapreel <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: October 23, 1999 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: putting powder in pourpoints


>
>-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
>
>Hello,
>
>Cynthia wrote:
>> There are 4 separate entries.  I would love corrections to my
>translations.
>> The is my 1st shot at something this early. Please give it a go.  Note
>that
>> all I have is a transcription; any punctuation, abbreviations,
>> capitalizations, etc are as they appear in the footnotes of A. Harmand's
>> book. I do not use a french keyboard a cannot type the accents properly;
I
>> have instead placed apostrophes after the letters to represent the
accents
>> when they appear. Cedilla represented by *. So ugly. Sorry!
>>
>I confess I'm flabbergasted. I've never heard of putting powder in
>pourpoints before and I thought maybe the translation wasn't correct. It
>seems to be allright, though (well done, Cynthia, only a few question
marks,
>see below).  'Poudre' is quite close to 'foudre' and 'fourre' which can
mean
>'lining with fur', or 'fourni' which might mean 'filled with something'. It
>still may be a mistake in the transcription, but this seems to be a bit
>farfetched, although these things happened quite frequently while rewriting
>medieval mss in modern languages.
>
>Of course 'poudre' might be powdered gold, which they had, to decorate the
>pourpoints, although I've never heard of late 14th c pourpoints being
>decorated in this way.
>
>As Robin suggested it might also be golden objects being 'powdered' or
>stitched in a repeating pattern over the finished garment, but I think this
>would have been written down differently. It's not really period either.
>
>> 1395 - << Jehan de Saligny apoticaire demourant a` paris confesse (this
is
>more 'acknowledging' than 'confessing')
>> avoir eu et recu de Jehan Poulain tresorier de monseigneur le duc
>d'Orle'ans
>> la somme de quarante livres tournois. En quoy le dit seigneur lui estoit
>> tenuz pour quatre livres de poudre que ycclui seigneur a fait prendre
>rachat
>> de lui pour mettre en quatre pourpoins de satin, l'un de satin vermeil
>(more like rose-red, vermillion = vermillion or firy red, vermeil might
even
>mean mingled) et
>> les III autres de satin noir qu'il fait faire et deliverez c'est assavoir
>a
>> Mons. de Bourgoigne, au sire del le Tre'moille, a` messire Guill. del la
>> Tre'moille, son fre're et a` messire Elyan de Neilhac.>>  Brit. Mus., Add
>> Chart., 2165
>>
>This really looks like the apothecary has sold 40 livres worth of powder
(or
>4 pounds in weight) to put on or in pourpoints. He would not sell fur and
>although he might make powdered gold (which was sometimes used as a part of
>medicine) I can only assume that the powder was used between the layers of
>cloth pourpoints consisted of. To kill vermin if and when encountered?
Beats
>me...
>
>Henk
>
>

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From: "mann" <saffron@citynet.net>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
References: <199910230258.UAA21570@net.indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re. masques
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 11:32:36 -0400
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-Poster: "mann" <saffron@citynet.net>

From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 16:32:50 -0700
Subject: H-COST: Masques
- -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
I have seen one or two pictures showing people in masque clothing,
Elizabeth I included.  But I was wondering if someone could give me
just some general pointers about pre-1600 masques.

(the information I got out of the book "the Wives of Henry VIII" by Alison
Wier-secondary source)
1.  Were masques popular *before* 1500, say 1350?
She says that masques because popular in England during Henry VIII's
reign--I think around 1520)
2.  Were masks worn
variable
3.  Would all clothing norms have flown out the window so to speak?
did not really say
4.   What types of themes might have been popular?
mostly religious or of mythological theme

Hope this helps
Philippa Graves

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 10:18:33 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910240532.WAA18865@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: I did it!
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

Congratulations Margo!

I've enjoyed reading your messages leading up to this point and hope you
won't get too busy to keep us filled in on all the fun that's ahead as you
live your dream. :-D

Many blessings,
Kerrie


----- Original Message -----
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 1999 1:32 AM
Subject: H-COST: I did it!


>
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> Hi everyone!  I met this weekend with the potential investor for my costume
> pattern business, and we shook hands on the deal this afternoon. (In the
> parking lot at a Ren Faire, which seems appropriate).  We're on our way!
>
> I want to thank everyone on this list who helped me gather information for
> my business plan, who suggested names,  who prayed for me,  sent encouraging
> messages, and for all the other wonderful support and help I've gotten.
>
> Also, thanks to the list mistresses, past and present, who've kept this list
> going and given me a place to learn and grow and gain confidence.  Three
> years ago, I wouldn't have felt capable of doing this project:  Now, thanks
> to all of you, I've got a shot at making my dreams come true.
>
> This is sounding like an Oscar speech, I know, but I had to tell all of you
> how very grateful I am for your help.  I know that I'll be asking for, and
> getting, much more over the next year or so, while I work to bring the
> product to market.
>
> Thanks to all of you,
>
> Margo Anderson

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 10:49:14 1999
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Welcome back!

I went to your site and took a look around. Very nice! I was particularly
impressed by the 'butterfly' collar you put on the late Elizabethan gown
at Selsoe Castle. And the embroidery and jeweling you did on the
Josephine gown. How did you pick that shade of pink for the dress? I was
under the impression that Regency colors were a bit softer (not paler,
just softer) than the one you chose. Do you have period sources for it?

Karen
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-Poster: Andrea Clef <a.clef@ndh.net>

Congratulations Margo !

I wish you all the best for you and your business and hope that you`ll
be selling your
patterns to Europe, too :-) !

Many greetings,
Diana



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 12:25:37 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.a3a40146.253e99de@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: watching films with costumers
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:35:57 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

Someone wrote:
> << I'm sure we, as a historic costumer, are some of the best flaw finders
and
> NO ONE likes to watch programs with us.  >>

If and when we start viewing a costumefilm on tv or video with the family,
especially if it's situated between the classic period and, say, ca 1820, I
get a ban on reacting on costume, sword- or rapierfighting, heraldry, arms
and armour, architecture in sets or real buildings (shown as how they now
are, not as they were then: especially churches and castles), household
implements, etc. by my spouse and sons. There's not much left to enjoy after
that ;-(

I normally just make notes in a special notebook, and waite till I can see
this movie on my own and can rave and rant in private ;-)

Sometimes though, if the movie is very good, I just forget te react... And
while viewing Braveheart even my loved ones could not stop me cursing this
abominable product!!!

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 12:25:42 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3810F421.3088CF3E@serv.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Masques
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:40:15 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

Cynthia wrote:
> 1.  Were masques popular *before* 1500, say 1350?

Not as such. Masqued revels were sometimes part of tournaments, courtdances,
seasonal festivals like Carnaval and Christmas. These last since antique
times.
>
> 2.  Were masks worn

Yes.

> 4.   What types of themes might have been popular?

During the middle ages animal masks were very popular, as were masks of
devils, angels, saints, etc. during mystery plays.

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 12:26:11 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <013001bf1b2c$613a87c0$171ffea9@gunsafes>
Subject: Re: H-COST: terminology
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:09:07 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BF1E53.3E9F2840
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi,
  Michelle wondered what the following meant:
    Si non e vero, e ben trovato, huh?

    If it isn't true, it's at least a good find, eh?

    Henk

------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BF1E53.3E9F2840
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"" bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Michelle wondered what the following=20
  meant:</FONT></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Si non e vero, e ben trovato, =
huh?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>If it isn't true, it's at least a =
good find,=20
    eh?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>Henk</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BF1E53.3E9F2840--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 13:08:32 1999
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Kristen Morgaine Sieber wrote:

> Can someone help me?  After being away for a month, I
> am re-subcribing to my various lists, but h-needlework
> keeps rejecting me!  Does anyone on this list know the
> secret to subscribing?  I have the Majordomo address,
> but it comes back saying something like, it doesn't
> like my domain.  Well, it like it fine before!
> Thanks.

Answered privately.

--Charlene, h-needlework administrator

--
Plan to be spontaneous tomorrow.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 15:22:12 1999
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 13:38:32 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: What are the pieces? Victorian Basque..
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19991023204342.3a175388@mail2.quiknet.com>
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 09:34 PM 23/10/99 -0600, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
>>4 - the collar?
>
>No. Piece 4 is the side back; that curved part at the bottom is the lower
>part of the armscye. The seam labeled "C 12 in." attaches to the curved seam
>labeled "C 12 in." on Piece 2.  The seam labeled "B 9 in." attaches to the
>side seam of the front Piece 1, which is also labeled "9 in.".

Ack! this is the one I got totally wrong :]

Thanks very much.. this will be so much easier to fit when I get that last
piece in there. No wonder it was wrinkling in the curve between the waist
and the hip!

Now I'll have more room in the arm hole, and I'll be able to make up my own
sleeve pattern (I'm changing it a bit, because it doesn't have to be
TOTALLT authentic :])

Thanks so much! 

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 15:51:18 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910240532.WAA18865@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: I did it!
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 15:08:14 -0600
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  Congratulations, Margo,and much luck and prosperity!
    When they're ready, will your patterns be available through
your website?

  All Health!
  Liadain 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 16:27:08 1999
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 14:43:42 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: What are the pieces? Victorian Basque..
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

http://victorian.fortunecity.com/bacon/175/glb1-57dip2.gif

Ok.. I finally did it!
The only place I added fabric was to the centre front.. about 1-1/2 inches
worth. Otherwise, the thing fits me perfectly! I suppose it was intended
for a woman measuring 38-28-38 or so, because the hip area was a little
snug (easily altered) and the waist was a leetle big with the undergarments
I have.
Yay!
It's really easy to enlarge this pattern, and really easy to put together.
The only difficult part I believe I will have now is getting the sleeves to
fit right, because I don't have any pattern books handy (or patterns that
have sleeves..), and the local library doesn't carry them. Oh well!

Hopefully I'll be able to afford to have pictures of this developed soon,
just so I can show off my first vaguely Victorian clothes :]

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 16:43:56 1999
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From: "suchanek" <suchanek@sprint.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: standing collar c.1600
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 14:58:48 -0700
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-Poster: "suchanek" <suchanek@sprint.ca>

Hi!  I am new to the list.  You will see right away from my questions that I
am not a costumer.  I am a lacemaker specializing in hand made bobbin lace.
I do see a lot of historical costumes when I study lace, mainly from old
paintings.

I am working on a lace trim for a standing collar/band of an early 17th
century.
I am using a technique of bobbin lace and patterns from the book Le Pompe
(published in Venice, 1556).  I decided to make the trim from fine silver
wire. It holds shape beautifully and that is just what I need for the spiky
scallops.  But the trim will be heavier than if it was made from thread.
The question:   How do I make the collar to stand up?  Special cut?
Interfacing?
I intend to make the collar from velvet, which is quite heavy fabric on its
own. I do not have enough experience to judge if it will work. Is the idea
of standing velvet collar with metal lace trim feasible?
Can you recommend me a book/source for finding patterns for costumes with
standing bands/collars and matching cuffs of c.1600-1620?

Lenka
Art of Hand-made Lace http://www.silverpinstudio.com
e-mail:  lenka@silverpinstudio.com



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 16:53:37 1999
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 <006a01bf1e46$f37c0b00$3bd3f1c3@henk>
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 15:18:40 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: watching films with costumers
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl> wrote:
>
>Sometimes though, if the movie is very good, I just forget te react... And
>while viewing Braveheart even my loved ones could not stop me cursing this
>abominable product!!!

Hear! Hear!

Ok, i don't usually post "Me, too!"s, but i just have to for this 
one. Because of the acclaim, i had expected much more from 
Braveheart. But it was pathetic in every respect. I was astonished it 
got the Oscar (tm) for best movie, considering the "weenie waving" 
scene and the prudery in so much of the US (yeah, i know, "sex 
sells", but it has to be "just the right kind" of sex) (and, of 
course, many other pathetic films get Oscars (tm)).

My daughter was angry with me because i mocked the film nearly from 
start to finish (and, sheesh, it was on TWO video cassettes). I 
usually have more self-control and I'll let all sorts of egregious 
errors go by if i'm enjoying the movie. (although my daughter finally 
admitted that she thought it wasn't particularly good either, she 
just didn't want to hear my endless comments :-)

I'm just glad i saw it at home and not in a movie theater. The 
thought of so many shots of Mel Gibson's scruffy face as tall and as 
wide as the theater makes me cringe - i fortunately only had to see 
it, repeated over and over unnecessarily, on my little TV. Besides, 
in a theater, the audience would probably have dragged my into the 
lobby and pummelled me :-)

Lilinah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 17:16:33 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: I did it!
In-Reply-To: <199910240532.WAA18865@apollo.directcon.net>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Sat, 23 Oct 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> Hi everyone!  I met this weekend with the potential investor for my costume
> pattern business, and we shook hands on the deal this afternoon. (In the
> parking lot at a Ren Faire, which seems appropriate).  We're on our way!
> 
Woohoo!!! Way to go Margo! You give hope to all of us who want to do
things more authentically.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 17:23:52 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re. masques
In-Reply-To: <004201bf1e35$010b9720$57ff00cf@default>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Sun, 24 Oct 1999, mann wrote:

> 1.  Were masques popular *before* 1500, say 1350?
> She says that masques because popular in England during Henry VIII's
> reign--I think around 1520)
I recall reading that at one time a ball or feast would be 'interrupted'
by mysterious strangers wearing masks or sometimes dressed as wild men
or the like. However I can't remember when this was popular though 
my brain does associate it with Henry VIII
The revellers would recite verses in honour of guests or otherwise
entertain them.
> 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 17:34:41 1999
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 15:44:08 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: watching films with costumers
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

Braveheart.  My daughter's only positive comment was that she liked the
Irishman.  I felt it was good for modern audiences to get up front and
personal at the execution, because most don't realize how it was.  But that
was about it. -- Carol, putting in my own bit
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 17:44:12 1999
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:00:13 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: standing collar c.1600
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

Have you considered using buckrum/buckram (something like that)?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 17:50:21 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: watching films with costumers
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:10:29 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>Braveheart.  My daughter's only positive comment was that she liked the
>Irishman.  I felt it was good for modern audiences to get up front and
>personal at the execution, because most don't realize how it was.  But that
>was about it. -- Carol, putting in my own bit


I've often been criticized in other forums for answering honestly when asked
whether "Braveheart" was accurate or not.  "It's only entertainment! It's
only a movie!"

Well, truth be told, it was no great shakes from a moviemaking standpoint,
either, relying way too much on its epic scale and pulling on the
heartstrings (those bad, nasty, evil, English--heck, I think they're even
called "pagan" in the opening sequence--imposing "right of the first night"
(which never existed in Scotland, if it existed anywhere) on the poor,
downtrodden Scots;  that shot of the mournful bride tearfully bidding
farewell IN SLOW MOTION to her new husband so that the lord can take his
"right"--blecch!) for its effect.  Frankly, I was bored.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 18:23:55 1999
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:39:10 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re. masques
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

In a message dated 10/24/99 6:40:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au writes:

<< I recall reading that at one time a ball or feast would be 'interrupted'
 by mysterious strangers wearing masks or sometimes dressed as wild men
 or the like. However I can't remember when this was popular though 
 my brain does associate it with Henry VIII
 The revellers would recite verses in honour of guests or otherwise
 entertain them. >>

This is entierly theoretical....

In Romeo and Juliet, Romeo and his friends crash the ball in masks. I 
remmeber from my HS freshman English class that this was a tradition that was 
accepted and masked guests of even a rival faction would be tolerated as long 
as they didn't make trouble. I don't know if they meant this about 
Shakespeare's time or in Juliet's Verona, or if it's even true, but it's 
something.

-Alison Stacy
acstacy@cc.owu.edu
AliaClaire@aol.com
Ohio Wesleyan University
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:20:49 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: standing collar c.1600
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

I suspect your velvet band will be strong enough to hold up the lace by 
itself. If not, use a Victorian solution and add stays (you can use men's 
collar stays, trimmed to length) in little casings on the back of the collar.

If you prefer interfacing, I would recommend some non-woven, polyester 
stuff or stiff canvas rather than buckram.

Kim


At 02:58 PM 10/24/1999 -0700, you wrote:

>-Poster: "suchanek" <suchanek@sprint.ca>
>
>Hi!  I am new to the list.  You will see right away from my questions that I
>am not a costumer.  I am a lacemaker specializing in hand made bobbin lace.
>I do see a lot of historical costumes when I study lace, mainly from old
>paintings.
>
>I am working on a lace trim for a standing collar/band of an early 17th
>century.
>I am using a technique of bobbin lace and patterns from the book Le Pompe
>(published in Venice, 1556).  I decided to make the trim from fine silver
>wire. It holds shape beautifully and that is just what I need for the spiky
>scallops.  But the trim will be heavier than if it was made from thread.
>The question:   How do I make the collar to stand up?  Special cut?
>Interfacing?
>I intend to make the collar from velvet, which is quite heavy fabric on its
>own. I do not have enough experience to judge if it will work. Is the idea
>of standing velvet collar with metal lace trim feasible?
>Can you recommend me a book/source for finding patterns for costumes with
>standing bands/collars and matching cuffs of c.1600-1620?
>
>Lenka
>Art of Hand-made Lace http://www.silverpinstudio.com
>e-mail:  lenka@silverpinstudio.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 19:44:26 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>    When they're ready, will your patterns be available through
>your website?
>
We'll be setting up a seperate website for the business, as soon as we
decided on a name...because we found out Saturday that "Regalia" is being
used by a trim merchant, which is just too close.  So now I get to go BACK
over all those suggestions and think about it some more.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 19:44:30 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> << I recall reading that at one time a ball or feast would be 'interrupted'
>  by mysterious strangers wearing masks or sometimes dressed as wild men
>  or the like. However I can't remember when this was popular though 
>  my brain does associate it with Henry VIII
>  The revellers would recite verses in honour of guests or otherwise
>  entertain them. >>
> This is entierly theoretical....
> 
> In Romeo and Juliet, Romeo and his friends crash the ball in masks. I 
> remmeber from my HS freshman English class that this was a tradition that was 
> accepted and masked guests of even a rival faction would be tolerated as long 
> as they didn't make trouble. I don't know if they meant this about 
> Shakespeare's time or in Juliet's Verona, or if it's even true, but it's 
> something.

Shakespeare didn't make it up. He probably got the idea from either 
history (as there were descriptions of this kind of thing occurring 
well before the 16th C) or from what he saw or heard of the courts of 
the time.

In either Splendor at Court by Roy Strong or Renaissance Theatre 
Costuming by Stella Mary Newton there is a drawing or watercolor of a 
ball where "wild men" came and interrupted. It's a lovely source too 
as it shows people in their regular clothing in the background of the 
activities going on where ladies in "old costumes" from the previous 
century being abducted by these wild men. There are also others from 
that same series which show details of backs of women's wear (which 
is something which made me look more than once as we don't get those 
details usually.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 22:41:24 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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Subject: H-COST: More dying
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

Since people have been talking about dying lately I have a couple of 
questions about dying silk.

1. I have a piece of silk that is orange. I'm not overly fond of orange,
and I realise I could overdye it to a darker colour quite easily, but 
for what I have in mind for it, it would look better as a pale colour. Any
suggestions of a way to fade or remove the colour without damaging the
fabric? (I have access to Rit or Dylon products here but that's about it).

2. I have some silk taffeta that I also wish to dye, but I would like to
retain the 'crisp' quality of the fabric if possible. Would I be better
off using a cold water dye? 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 24 23:10:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 00:24:58 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re. masques
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/24/1999 7:40:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
AliaClaire@aol.com writes:

<< 
 In Romeo and Juliet, Romeo and his friends crash the ball in masks. I 
 remmeber from my HS freshman English class that this was a tradition that 
was 
 accepted and masked guests of even a rival faction would be tolerated as 
long 
 as they didn't make trouble. I don't know if they meant this about 
 Shakespeare's time or in Juliet's Verona, or if it's even true, but it's 
 something.
 
  >>

This of course is done also in "Don Giovanni" and its roots "Don 
Juan"....which is Spanish and I've always thought was mid to late 16th 
century, but I don't know it could come from an earlier source.
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 21:48:02 -0700
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: I did it!
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 05:58 PM 10/24/1999 -0700, you wrote:-Poster: Margo Anderson
<margo@directcon.net>
>We'll be setting up a seperate website for the business, as soon as we
>decided on a name...because we found out Saturday that "Regalia" is being
>used by a trim merchant, which is just too close.  So now I get to go BACK
>over all those suggestions and think about it some more.  
          Well, I'm sorry that you have to start over, in one sense, but
since I never cared for Regalia, for the reasons I stated, I'll pray that
whatever name you choose will be perfect and will bring you business!  Carol 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 03:22:21 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:16:56 +0100
From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Standing bands
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Lenka - It's earlier in the century than the period I do, but my understanding is that standing bands were made of white linen (like the later falling bands) and held up by  a wire frame called an underpropper. I've never heard of a velvet one. The silver lace sounds lovely.

Kate Bunting
King's Lifeguard of Foote, Sealed Knot

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 04:09:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:20:15 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #735
In-reply-to: <199910231819.MAA25437@net.indra.com>
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Organization: Middlesex University
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Dawn

> By the way I've been meaning to ask which bit of middlesex Uni are
> you in. I used to be costume technician/pt lecturer with the BAPA
> students at Trent Park when it was still the polytechnic 

Bounds Green in the department that buys in and catalogues the 
books for the libraries at all the sites....  The Issues of costume I've 
been given are ones withdrawn from the Library at Trent Park

> - -Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>
>
> >Am I a Lucky Bunny or what?
> 
>  No, you are a very naughty, indeed evil, bunny, saying things
> like that straight out without preparing us first. The more
> sensitive of us might get a heart attack from the shock (or
> possibly from the envy :-) 

Oh, Ninni, does this mean you aren't going to come @round the 
silk mill and museum with me when I come to Stockholm in 
November...?  <presses back of hand to brow in  overly-
melodramatic manner>....<g>


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 04:49:47 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 11:58:06 +0200
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Yes as i know it, the standing bands or collars were made in white
holland lawn. They were made with small darts at the neckedge so that
the fabric could be straight in the grid all way arround. These darts
together with the starching helped the collar to stand right.
Some of them were also edged with wire.
I have never seen a standing collar in the time made in velvet, but if
you want to make one, you could make small pockets at the wrong side and
bone it.
Bjarne in Copenhagen.
--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 07:30:43 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 08:42:28 -0400
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-Poster: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>

Can anyone help me with an address (snail mail) for the Fasion Research
Centre at the Museum of Costume, Bath?  All email I've tried is returned
as undeliverable.
thanks!
Melissa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 09:15:04 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 07:30:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: standing collar
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

In the V&As "400 Years of Fashion" they show an
undercollar made of pink satin which goes with a ca.
1600 overcoat.  It's stiffened by being sewn over
cardboard strips.  The one on display is a
reproduction made from taking the pattern of the
original (now very fragile) one.  The lace collar lays
on top of this.
-Val

--- leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> 
> Yes as i know it, the standing bands or collars were
> made in white
> holland lawn. They were made with small darts at the
> neckedge so that
> the fabric could be straight in the grid all way
> arround. These darts
> together with the starching helped the collar to
> stand right.
> Some of them were also edged with wire.
> I have never seen a standing collar in the time made
> in velvet, but if
> you want to make one, you could make small pockets
> at the wrong side and
> bone it.
> Bjarne in Copenhagen.
> --
> 
> 
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
> 
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
> 
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
> 
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> 
> Homepage:
> http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 09:32:00 1999
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From: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <38145034.6A78B53D@alltel.net>
Subject: H-COST: museum of costume
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:49:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>

<<Can anyone help me with an address (snail mail) for the Fashion Research
Centre at the Museum of Costume, Bath?

Fashion Research Centre
Museum of Costume
4 The Circus
Bath
BA1-2EW

Phone number (dial as shown if calling from US)
011-44-1225-477-789

Erica D. Pence
Robes of Antiquity
www.robesofantiquity.com
Online store coming soon!



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 09:42:12 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:50:43 +0200
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Dear Valerie and others.

Apropos this supportasse from the V&A in London. Does anybody know if
there is made a pattern of this?
I have tryed to reconstrukt it from a picture, but i have failed each
time.

I think that this type is particular good with the cardboard strips, and
cheap also.
I would be very interrested in hearing of any books or other thing about
this supportasse.

Bjarne Drews

Valerie Robertson skrev:

> -Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
>
> In the V&As "400 Years of Fashion" they show an
> undercollar made of pink satin which goes with a ca.
> 1600 overcoat.  It's stiffened by being sewn over
> cardboard strips.  The one on display is a
> reproduction made from taking the pattern of the
> original (now very fragile) one.  The lace collar lays
> on top of this.
> -Val
>
> --- leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk> wrote:
> >
> > -Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> >
> > Yes as i know it, the standing bands or collars were
> > made in white
> > holland lawn. They were made with small darts at the
> > neckedge so that
> > the fabric could be straight in the grid all way
> > arround. These darts
> > together with the starching helped the collar to
> > stand right.
> > Some of them were also edged with wire.
> > I have never seen a standing collar in the time made
> > in velvet, but if
> > you want to make one, you could make small pockets
> > at the wrong side and
> > bone it.
> > Bjarne in Copenhagen.
> > --
> >
> >
> > Leif Drews
> > Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> > 1635  København V
> >
> > Bjarne Drews
> > Åboulevard 5,3.th
> > 1635 København V
> >
> > tlf. 35 37 13 70
> >
> > Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> >
> > Homepage:
> > http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> >
> >

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 11:08:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 11:18:44 -0500
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From: "Heather Jones" <HJones@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com>
Subject: H-COST: tapestries and hats
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-Poster: "Heather Jones" <HJones@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com>

Hello everyone,

I don't believe I've posted to this list before, but I have learned quite a
bit from everyone so far.  I am hoping someone can help me now.

Could someone point me to a URL where I can view the Unicorn tapestries in
color?  I found one site, but the scanned pictures are B/W.

Also, could someone point me to a good resource (on line preferably) with
men's Italian headgear?  I am looking for men's hats for 1450-1550 or
thereabouts, and my schedule does not permit me to get to a library during
business hours.

Thanks in advance,
Heather
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 11:31:33 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <006401bf1dec$61cd6000$03000004@van1282>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: putting powder in pourpoints
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:56:55 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

Zelda wrote:
> I have just picked up this thread, and think I may have an alternate answer
> (at the risk of sounding out to lunch!)for the "powder".  Perhaps it is duck
> or goose down?  I recall some reference to the down as "powder", and I wish
> I could remember where!

This might be the powderpuff. In French this would be: 'houppe a poudrer'.
So the word is there, but I doubt if the pourpoints were fileld with
powderpuffs.

Henk

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910240532.WAA18865@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: I did it!
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:51:11 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi,

Margo wrote:
> Hi everyone!  I met this weekend with the potential investor for my
costume
> pattern business, and we shook hands on the deal this afternoon. (In the
> parking lot at a Ren Faire, which seems appropriate).  We're on our way!

Congratulations, Margo. I hope you'll find happiness and fulfilment in your
craft. It so happens that my sister is also going official in her costumers
business (strictly medieval) right next month, after having worked for
tScapreel and several re-enactment and living history societies for several
years as a side job. I gave here your businessplan and contract some years
ago to read and that started her off then. Now she's about ready to take the
plunge too. We are at the moment all helping her to realise her dream, like
you did yours.

Good luck,

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 13:50:25 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 14:03:43 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Now all I want to know is... how many patterns will you be starting
with, what period will they be, how much will they be and will you have
discounts or a 'pattern club' (e.g. buy 6 get 1 free)? <grin>  Excited? 
Me? Getting patterns from someone I trust to get it right?  Naaaaaah.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 14:23:29 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 02:03 PM 10/25/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Now all I want to know is... how many patterns will you be starting
>with, what period will they be, how much will they be and will you have
>discounts or a 'pattern club' (e.g. buy 6 get 1 free

I'll be starting with one pattern, but it'll be a doozy... A complete
Elizabethan lady's wardrobe, including underpinnings and accesories.  A
similar man's package will follow in about six months. Other Elizabethan
period patterns, including children's and various ethnic styles, will come
later, as will patterns for other periods.  

At present we plan to concentrate on the pre-18th century period, as later
periods seem to already be fairly well represented in the pattern business.

One of our plans, down the road, is to have other designers make patterns
and/or write documentation for them.  I already have a commitment for this
from an expert in one of the popular ethnic groups.  When the time comes,
I'll be recruiting from this list.  It won't be for several years, but if
any of you are experts in specific styles, start thinking about it.  

Yes, I'd like to offer the list members a discount.  I'll have to look into
how I can do this effectively.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 14:52:24 1999
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From: "suchanek" <suchanek@sprint.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s814234d.000@csv6.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Standing bands
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 13:06:58 -0700
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-Poster: "suchanek" <suchanek@sprint.ca>




KATE wrote
>
> Lenka - It's earlier in the century than the period I do, but my
understanding is that >standing bands were made of white linen (like the
later falling bands) and held up by  a >wire frame called an underpropper.
I've never heard of a velvet one.

I have never seen velvet one either, just linen.  The project that I am
working on doesn't have to be historically correct though.  It is just a
variation on a theme of early plaited lace and I will use only black velvet
and silver.  I will try suggested support techniques.
Thank you all for replies!

Lenka

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 15:39:53 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 13:55:51 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Thanks everyone!  There have been some really good replies.  All the books
are here at the University of Washington and I have checked them out.  So,
I'm well on my way.

Many thanks,
Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 16:09:51 1999
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Arbeau's "Orchesography" describes masque costume for one of the dances, 
Buffens. It was a performed dance but it was part of a masque, not a 
theatrical performance. Dancers don't wear masks. "The dancers are dressed in 
small corslets, with fringe epaulets and fringe hanging from beneath their 
belts over a silken ground. Their helmets are made of gilded cardboard, their 
arms are bare and they wear bells upon their legs and carry a sword in the 
right hand and a shield in the left." (translation by Mary Stewart Evans) So 
in this case it seems that the dancers wore their regular clothes and added a 
few props.

Oh, and it's French, 1580.

Gail

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 17:14:39 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 18:12:10 -0400
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From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re. masques
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I recall reading that at one time a ball or feast would be 'interrupted'
>by mysterious strangers wearing masks or sometimes dressed as wild men
>or the like. However I can't remember when this was popular though 
>my brain does associate it with Henry VIII
>The revellers would recite verses in honour of guests or otherwise
>entertain them.

Well, in the book called "Medieval Pagentry" by Bryan Holme there is copy
of an illumination from "Froissart's Chronicles", French 15th century.
Which depicts the story of the Charles VI dressing up with a group as
"wildmen" who were set on fire.  The king was rescued by the young
Duchesse du Berry when she recognised him and threw her train over the king
and extinguished the flames.

It was apparently a masquerade devised by Huget de Guisay.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 20:02:01 1999
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

As with any film set in the Regency, I am constantly scrutinizing the
costumes.  Did anybody catch that George Osborne's sister at one point
is wearing the dress that Jane Fairfax wears to Emma's wedding in the
Miramax film?  It is most definitely the exact gown (see link below).
And I know I've seen Becky's ballgown from the officer's ball before.  I
recognize the lace and the sleeve detailing.  Someone's been robbing the
costume stash!

Lots of fun things to drool over in this production.  Sure wish I could
find some of those gorgeous Indian shawls.  Yummy.

Cheers,
Jennie

Link:
http://www.sensibility.com/vintageimages/1800s/images/Janefairfax.jpg

--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

Boy, you're a tough audience :-)

> >Well, I didn't say accurate, :-)  but do you think this is a starting
point
> >for costuming dancers in a more "period" look?
> 
> "More period" than what?  I assume you are talking SCA and Renn faires?

There seems to be a very strong attitude on this list about authenticity
especially at the Faire events. I thought this was the place to ask what
works best for dancers.

> >Sure, back then they
> >probably danced in "every day" wear, but dancers really want a something
> >that will make them stand out as "dancers".
> 
> I don't have a problem with theatre, I have a problem calling it
"period".

What do you call "period"?

> I guess the question is "appropriate" for what?

Appropriate for taking us back in our imaginations.

Amanda
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re. masques
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/25/1999 6:30:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dnunn@interlog.com writes:

<< It was apparently a masquerade devised by Huget de Guisay. >>

And Edgar Allen Poe   ;-)
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 21:28:57 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Anyone watching Vanity Fair?
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/25/1999 9:18:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
jchancey@rica.net writes:

<< As with any film set in the Regency, I am constantly scrutinizing the
 costumes.  Did anybody catch that George Osborne's sister at one point
 is wearing the dress that Jane Fairfax wears to Emma's wedding in the
 Miramax film?  It is most definitely the exact gown (see link below).
 And I know I've seen Becky's ballgown from the officer's ball before.  I
 recognize the lace and the sleeve detailing.  Someone's been robbing the
 costume stash!
  >>

This is always fun. 

There's a dress from Dangerous Liaisons that was originally worn by Swoozie 
Kurts that shows up in lots of 18th century shows. Perhaps you know it? It's 
cherry pink with a stomacher of ribbon loops fanning upward.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 20:51:23 1999
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Subject: H-COST: 1926 HELP! "Inherit the Wind"
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

We're doing "Inherit the Wind" for my dad's fall play.  My problem is
that, once again, he has more females than males.  Some of which are
playing male parts... as in attorneys!  I know that at least one *must*
have a jacket in the play because she has to take it off.  Any
suggestions?

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 20:52:56 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: putting powder in pourpoints
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 19:07:04 -0700
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>

>> 1395 - << Jehan de Saligny apoticaire demourant a` paris confesse 
>> avoir eu et recu de Jehan Poulain tresorier de monseigneur le duc
d'Orle'ans
>> la somme de quarante livres tournois. En quoy le dit seigneur lui
estoit<>
>> tenuz pour quatre livres de poudre que ycclui seigneur a fait prendre
rachat
>> de lui pour mettre en quatre pourpoins de satin, l'un de satin vermeil et
>> les III autres de satin noir qu'il fait faire et deliverez c'est assavoir
a
>> Mons. de Bourgoigne, au sire del le Tre'moille, a` messire Guill. del la
>> Tre'moille, son fre're et a` messire Elyan de Neilhac.>>  Brit. Mus., Add
>> Chart., 2165

Henk> (more like rose-red, vermillion = vermillion or firy red, vermeil
might even
mean mingled)

Henk> This really looks like the apothecary has sold 40 livres worth of
powder (or
4 pounds in weight) to put on or in pourpoints. He would not sell fur and
although he might make powdered gold (which was sometimes used as a part of
medicine) I can only assume that the powder was used between the layers of
cloth pourpoints consisted of. To kill vermin if and when encountered? Beats
me...

Vermeil: what could "mingled" possibly mean in this context?  A variety of
colors? a 2-toned damask?

Did you have a guess on "c'est assavoir"; 

And to everyone who offered a guess from feathers to spangles to perfume to
vermicide to  sorcery, thanks for the help; I'll keep an eye out for
references.  There's nothing like an obscure mystery, huh?

And, for what it's worth, A. Harmand, author of "Jeanne d'Arc", didnt have
an answer to the mystery either.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Oct 25 23:04:51 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 21:19:01 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Anyone watching Vanity Fair?
References: <19990918194709.18254.rocketmail@web803.mail.yahoo.com> <3814FFEA.DE1F3125@rica.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Jennie Chancey wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
> 
> As with any film set in the Regency, I am constantly scrutinizing the
> costumes.  Did anybody catch that George Osborne's sister at one point
> is wearing the dress that Jane Fairfax wears to Emma's wedding in the
> Miramax film?  It is most definitely the exact gown (see link below).
> And I know I've seen Becky's ballgown from the officer's ball before.  I
> recognize the lace and the sleeve detailing.  Someone's been robbing the
> costume stash!

I taped Vanity Fair and watched the last episode of the Aristocrats on
Masterpiece Theater instead.  I loved the fact that they had the younger
women in this last episode wearing the more "fashionable" styles of the
1790s (including hair) while the older ladies who the story centered
around continued to wear more Georgian styles.
 
> Lots of fun things to drool over in this production.  Sure wish I could
> find some of those gorgeous Indian shawls.  Yummy.

Funny you should mention that - I was reading in the LA Times last week
about indian pashmanis shawls which are the *hot* fashion item this
season.  Not entirely period looking from the sound of it, but they
mentioned that many of the upper end shawls had nice metallic
embroideries on them.  I'm looking forward to these hitting the second
hand market in a few years (btw, they pointed out that the word
"pashmani" means a combination of silk and cashmere fibers - that's
all).

Carolyn
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 22:03:47 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: V&A supportasse
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I don't know how the one in the V&A was made, but a theatre-major friend of
mine made one for me in 1972.  It worked fine.  There was a U-shaped wire
sewn along the neck edge which was longer than the neck edge at both ends
of the U and stuck out a few inches on each side.  This wire had loops at
each end which took ribbon ties which were sewn to the bodice.  Once tied,
the ribbons were not visible under the "collar".  Having the support
attached to the bodice by these wires made it stand at just the right angle
to support the "collar".  It's anyone's guess where my friend got the idea.

>Apropos this supportasse from the V&A in London. Does anybody know if
>there is made a pattern of this?
>I have tryed to reconstrukt it from a picture, but i have failed each
>time.
>
>I think that this type is particular good with the cardboard strips, and
>cheap also.
>I would be very interrested in hearing of any books or other thing about
>this supportasse.



Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 00:10:23 -0500
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Unicorn Tapestry
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>- -Poster: "Heather Jones" <HJones@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com>
>
>Could someone point me to a URL where I can view the Unicorn tapestries in
>color?  I found one site, but the scanned pictures are B/W.
>
This isn't a URL, but we just got a book from the museum store of the
Norton-Simon Art Museum in Kansas City, MO, called: The Unicorn Tapestries
at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Adolfo Salvatore Cavallo.  It's
published by the Met thru Harry N. Abrams publishers.  ISBN(s):
0-87099-868-4 (museum hc), 
0-87099-869-2 (museum paperbk), 0-8209-3947-9 (Abrams hc).

It has 77 color plates and shows closeups of many areas.  I don't remember
exactly how much it was, I think around $40 (hardcover).  It may be
available from Amazon for less, esp. if you can get the paperback.

Not sure if this is the exact tapestries you need, but this is a good book.

Sandy

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 11:33:29 +0200
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: H-COST: "pashmani" shawls
References: <19990918194709.18254.rocketmail@web803.mail.yahoo.com> <3814FFEA.DE1F3125@rica.net> <38152BB5.59504149@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

I have seen pictures of these, they are very much popular amongst royalties
here in "europe"
But those i have seen is only plain, without embroidery, but i think they are
made in many many colours, as those i saw matched the dresses compleatly.
Bjarne Drews in Copenhagen where it is raining and dark, dark

Carolyn Richardson skrev:

> -Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Jennie Chancey wrote:
> >
> > -Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
> >
> > As with any film set in the Regency, I am constantly scrutinizing the
> > costumes.  Did anybody catch that George Osborne's sister at one point
> > is wearing the dress that Jane Fairfax wears to Emma's wedding in the
> > Miramax film?  It is most definitely the exact gown (see link below).
> > And I know I've seen Becky's ballgown from the officer's ball before.  I
> > recognize the lace and the sleeve detailing.  Someone's been robbing the
> > costume stash!
>
> I taped Vanity Fair and watched the last episode of the Aristocrats on
> Masterpiece Theater instead.  I loved the fact that they had the younger
> women in this last episode wearing the more "fashionable" styles of the
> 1790s (including hair) while the older ladies who the story centered
> around continued to wear more Georgian styles.
>
> > Lots of fun things to drool over in this production.  Sure wish I could
> > find some of those gorgeous Indian shawls.  Yummy.
>
> Funny you should mention that - I was reading in the LA Times last week
> about indian pashmanis shawls which are the *hot* fashion item this
> season.  Not entirely period looking from the sound of it, but they
> mentioned that many of the upper end shawls had nice metallic
> embroideries on them.  I'm looking forward to these hitting the second
> hand market in a few years (btw, they pointed out that the word
> "pashmani" means a combination of silk and cashmere fibers - that's
> all).
>
> Carolyn



--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 07:59:44 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Praire Dresses
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 23:26:40 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

A new question for all of you:  is there a pattern from the big three
(simplicity, McCall's, Butterick, etc.) for a praire dress that has any
basis in reality?  For example, Simplicity 8755 has little sleeve ruffles
and a hat that I can't figure out.  I know McCalls has two patterns, don't
have the numbers handy, one of which looks to be like a standard Renn Faire
chemise with a belt.  Which would be the closest to what was?  Or are all of
these merely TV versions of a child's dress?  (Bear with me, this is not my
area of study at all).  Any pointers?  Thank you.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 08:11:48 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Anyone watching Vanity Fair?
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Jennie,

Cosprop manager told us that most costumes are returned "to stock" after 
filming. That makes them available for other films/TV productions. Very 
possible that the same dress was seen in other productions.

However, with the increase interest in costumes, they are reserving some for 
exhibition and not re-makes and re-wearings.

Cosprop ran an ad in American Association of Museums magazine about their 
exhibition costume opportunities.

Enjoy hunting for more duplications,
Sally 


Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com 
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Time Travelers Ball
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>


Hello

If you live in California or are planning a trip come join us March 4th
2000 for an evening of Dancing and Socializing with everyone from the 
Past,Present, and Future.

The Fashioner's of Fancy present our first annual "Time Travelers Ball".
>From whatever time you reside in, put on your best clothes, masks, and dance
Time away to the music of Swingtime  

We will dance to everything and anything from the Waltz to maybe the 
Time Warp.

To help pass the time between the dances there will be Party Games, 
No-host Wine bar, and Finger Food with Punch and Coffee.  There will 
also be an Opportunity Drawing for a basket of Goodies that will make 
any Costumer drool.  

So please join us, tickets are $15.00 per person in advance, and $18.00
at the door.  Please dress in any time period you would like, we just 
ask that it be Formal for it's time, and masks will not be required, 
but are highly encouraged.  

The Doors open at 7pm with the Music starting at 8pm.  With the coming 
of Midnight, we all return to our respective times.  The Ball will be 
held at the Clunie Clubhouse at 601 Alhambra Blvd, Sacramento.  Please 
see map at our web site.

For more information please either explore our Web Site at
http://www.2xtreme.net/madly/GSACG/index.htm 
or E-mail us at madly@2xtreme.net.


Yours Stephen Bergdahl VP and Webmaster for the GSACG.



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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Apropos this supportasse from the V&A in London. Does anybody know if
> there is made a pattern of this?

I don't remember seeing any patterns of it.

> I have tryed to reconstrukt it from a picture, but i have failed each
> time.
> 
> I think that this type is particular good with the cardboard strips, and
> cheap also.
> I would be very interrested in hearing of any books or other thing about
> this supportasse.

According to the V&A display, it is made of "paste" which we would 
probably all cardboard. It is covered with satin.

There are actually 2 on display at the V&A costume room. One is hung 
on the wall and the other is on the mannikin wearing the surcoat 
which is also in Janet Arnold.

Perhaps you could make it to London and see it for real. (Pictures 
aren't as helpful as seeing from multiple directions. Next time I get 
the chance I'm going to do some drawings because even the multiple 
photographs I took don't get all the details!)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Dear Kat (June Russel)
I have been to the museum several times, but when i have my partner with
me, i must se in a rush, because he dont find it as interresting as i
do, besides when you only have 5 days in London, there are other things
that you have to se.
One thing i have always wondered. Why dont the museum hire some people
who can draft the costumes to pattern. I am sure that there would be a
big sale on those items, it could pay itself and more i think. Why dont
they do this? They could sell it from the museum shop.
This supportasse has a "thing" in the neck where it is fastened to the
back of the dress, and it has a special cut that i cant find out to make
(grrrrrrrrr.)
It is odd that Janet Arnold didnt make a draft of this when it is so
rare.
Bjarne in a cold, dark and rainy Copenhagen.
--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: griffinhold@usa.net
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Italian gown
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-Poster: griffinhold@usa.net






Hello-

OK all, I need help!  I have a deadline of two weeks to create an Italian gown
nice enough to wear with 'real' royalty.  I need something simple enough that
I don’t have to fuss excessively with patterning.  I was thinking about the
dress in the portrait of Caterina Sforza painted by Lorenzo di Credi
(1459-1587) which is in the Pinacoteca in Forli.  However, alternate ideas are
cheerfully accepted as I’d originally been thinking about the St. Ursula gown
from the Carpaccio cycle. 

My copy of the Sforza painting is in a book titled The Renaissance Woman by
Hannelore Sachs.  The bodice is cut wide and laced and there is what appears
to be a placket behind the dress front so you’re still not seeing anything
except the very top of the chemise.  The sleeves are a variant of tie-on.  The
problem is the skirt.  My repro is in B&W and I can’t tell what the skirt
would have been.  It doesn’t look like it was cartridge pleated and I don’t
know what would be an acceptable method of attaching the skirt.  Box pleating?
 

Any help would be greatly appreciated before I start seriously tearing my hair
out.  

Lyn Gillespie


____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 10:02:58 1999
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From: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Italian gown
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:16:28 PDT
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-Poster: "Karie Mitchell" <allessandre@hotmail.com>

>From: griffinhold@usa.net
>OK all, I need help!  I have a deadline of two weeks to create an >Italian 
>gown nice enough to wear with 'real' royalty.  I need >something simple 
>enough that I don’t have to fuss excessively with >patterning.  I was 
>thinking about the dress in the portrait of >Caterina Sforza painted by 
>Lorenzo di Credi (1459-1587) which is in >the Pinacoteca in Forli.  
>However, alternate ideas are cheerfully >accepted as I’d originally been 
>thinking about the St. Ursula gown
>from the Carpaccio cycle.

I think the easiest design is a heavily lined bodice with perhaps some light 
boning.  Or you can skip the boning if the bodice is short (ending just 
beneath the bustline).

>My copy of the Sforza painting is in a book titled The Renaissance >Woman 
>by Hannelore Sachs.  The bodice is cut wide and laced and >there is what 
>appears to be a placket behind the dress front so >you’re still not seeing 
>anything except the very top of the >chemise.  The sleeves are a variant of 
>tie-on.  The problem is the >skirt.  My repro is in B&W and I can’t tell 
>what the skirt would >have been.  It doesn’t look like it was cartridge 
>pleated and I don’t
>know what would be an acceptable method of attaching the skirt.  Box 
> >pleating?

Box pleats are fine.  I tend to make early Ren, Milanese gowns and they were 
still not very "full", box pleats or simple gathers would work for a gown 
like that.  However, if there is some suggestion that the skirt "stands 
away" from the legs, I would use cartridge or the like.

>Any help would be greatly appreciated before I start seriously >tearing my 
>hair out.

I hope this helps.  Unfortunately I could not find the images you mentioned. 
  But just as a reminder, religious figures aren't always a good source for 
authentic clothing.  But if there are similar examples on the patrons or 
servants in the picture, I think it would be a better example of accuracy.

Just my $.02,

Allessandre
>
>Lyn Gillespie
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 10:03:02 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 10:10:36 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Anyone watching Vanity Fair?
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Well, I actually wasn't watching (I'm not a Jane Austen fan, guess that
makes me a heretic) until there wasn't anything else decent on last
night. I caught the last hour of the show (what was with that bizarro
shower/spa scene?!). I must say that I was more impressed with the
costuming than I expected to be. In particular I liked the men's
costuming, I found it very attractive even tho I never thought of the
1820's as being a particularly 'manly' period of costume. Was this an
accurate representation of men's clothing of the era, or did the designer
select the ones which would read best to a late 20th century audience?

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 11:06:16 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Anyone watching Vanity Fair?
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/26/1999 11:19:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
seamstrix@juno.com writes:

<< I never thought of the
 1820's as being a particularly 'manly' period of costume.  >>

Really? As compared to.... what?....petticoat breeches? The late 18th & early 
19th centuries are fantastic for men. All that equestrian influence and the 
tailored look still with some flare before it later all becomes dark colors 
with no trim. It's the best!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 11:48:46 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: needlework cushion
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 19:01:22 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF1FE4.7E633A60
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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tscapreelHenk & Pauline 't Jong
tScapreel
Medieval Advisors
Dordrecht - Netherland

Hi,

I put down here a question from a friend. Some of you may know the =
beautiful fresco's of Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Publico of =
Siena called: Good and Bad Government and their Effects in Town and =
Countryside, ca 1338-39. In this ensemble their is a picture of Peace =
(Pax) as a woman dressed in a voluminous chemise resting on the armour =
of knights. She's reclining on a large cushion of white cloth with red =
decoration. My friend thinks these decorations are a kind of =
openwork-embroidery (making holes and pulling them together to form =
patterns) and that the cushion has a red lining. Is he right? An =
enlarged photocopy of a picture from a book called 'Five centuries of =
Sienese Painting', Thames & Hudson, 1998, shows this quite clearly. Has =
anybody on this list anything to say about this?=20

Thanks,

Henk



------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF1FE4.7E633A60
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>tscapreel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Briefpapier\">
<META content=3D"Microsoft Word 97" name=3DGenerator>
<META content=3D"C:\PROGRAM FILES\MICROSOFT OFFICE\OFFICE\html.dot" =
name=3DTemplate>
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff link=3D#0000ff vLink=3D#800080>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Henk &amp; Pauline 't Jong<BR>tScapreel<BR>Medieval=20
Advisors<BR>Dordrecht - Netherland</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I put down here a&nbsp;question from a friend. Some =
of you may=20
know the beautiful fresco's of Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo =
Publico of=20
Siena called: Good and Bad Government and their Effects in Town and =
Countryside,=20
ca 1338-39. In this ensemble their is a picture of Peace (Pax) as a =
woman=20
dressed in a voluminous chemise resting on the armour of knights. She's=20
reclining on a large cushion of white cloth with red decoration. My =
friend=20
thinks these decorations are a kind of openwork-embroidery (making holes =
and=20
pulling them together to form patterns) and that the cushion has a red =
lining.=20
Is he right? An enlarged photocopy of a picture from a book called 'Five =

centuries of Sienese Painting', Thames &amp; Hudson, 1998, shows this =
quite=20
clearly. Has anybody on this list anything to say about this? =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Henk</FONT></DIV><FONT face=3DArial,Arial>
<P>&nbsp;</P></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF1FE4.7E633A60--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 11:49:10 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991025080152.2165B-100000@mercury.physics.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re. masques
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 19:28:37 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

Claire wrote:
> > 1.  Were masques popular *before* 1500, say 1350?
> > She says that masques because popular in England during Henry VIII's
> > reign--I think around 1520)
> I recall reading that at one time a ball or feast would be 'interrupted'
> by mysterious strangers wearing masks or sometimes dressed as wild men
> or the like. However I can't remember when this was popular though
> my brain does associate it with Henry VIII
> The revellers would recite verses in honour of guests or otherwise
> entertain them.

This was already fashionable in the 14th c. There was a famous ball given
january 28, 1393 by the French queen Isabeau of Bavaria in which her
husband, the slightly mad Charles VI, and 5 others surprised the guests and
dressed themselves in 'wild men' costumes made of linen and sewn on their
bodies, which were soaked in resinous wax and pitch to let frazzled hemp
cling to the costume to form a ragged pelt. Unfortunately, although open
fire had been forbidden in the hall, a brother and a cousin of the king
entered with torches and a spark set the dancers alight. The queen, who knew
her husband was among them, fainted, but the duchesse de Berry covered the
king, whom she had recognised, with her skirts. One other flung himself into
a large winecooler and escaped a painfull death. Tho other four were burned
to death. The king only got madder after that.

This was by no means the earliest masked ball, it was one of the most
notorious, though....

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 11:51:25 1999
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References: <0.a3a40146.253e99de@aol.com><006a01bf1e46$f37c0b00$3bd3f1c3@henk> <v04210103b43932ae592e@[208.225.99.192]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: watching films with costumers
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 19:16:24 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

Don't start me again on Bravehaert. Somebody mentioned that the torturescene
(I suppose that's when Wallace got his rewards for 'lese-majeste' in 1305)
was so useful to watch for modern viewers. Well, there was nothing to watch
except the faces of the crowd who seemed to enjoy themselves. In fact it was
one of the scenes I  LOL: Mel looking out into the audience while his
entrails were dragged out of him with a look as if he thought:"Hello, what
are they doing now? I don't think I'm going to like this... No, I'm
definetely not going to like this, but they still go on...  Drat, I wonder
if I should say something about this. This is kind of getting unbearable,
but I suppose they would not listen. They never do, not even if you ask them
politely... Oh, well, it's got to end sometime. etc . etc."

My wife did not know what to make of my roaring, as she thought it a pity he
suffered so. Very understated acting that was, Mel, worth the Oscar!

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 12:09:54 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Henk's Braveheart/OT
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 10/26/1999 10:05:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
scapreel@tip.nl writes:

<< Well, there was nothing to watch
 except the faces of the crowd who seemed to enjoy themselves. In fact it was
 one of the scenes I  LOL: Mel looking out into the audience while his
 entrails were dragged out of him with a look as if he thought:"Hello, what
 are they doing now? I don't think I'm going to like this... No, I'm
 definetely not going to like this, but they still go on...  Drat, I wonder
 if I should say something about this. This is kind of getting unbearable,
 but I suppose they would not listen. They never do, not even if you ask them
 politely... Oh, well, it's got to end sometime. etc . etc." >>

I can't stop laughing!  I did not have the same reaction upon watching, but 
can certainly recognize some good humor with a little reflection!  Oh my!  
ROTFL

angela
+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both 
wind and tide."
King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 12:14:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 12:21:16 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Anyone watching Vanity Fair?
Message-ID: <19991026.122636.-366793.0.seamstrix@juno.com>
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Okay, I'll admit that my sense of what makes an outfit 'manly' is
probably hopelessly skewed from decades of doing historical costuming.
No, petticoat breeches don't make my 'manly' costume list, but cavalier
does, as does mid/late 15th century pourpoints (what can I say, I love
the look of a man's legs in tights!). As my teen-age years were spent
doing American RevWar re-enactment, my idea of manly attraction is
heavily influenced by both the extreme primitive end of leggins and
breechclout, and the tight knee-breeches and full white linen shirt of
the more conventional 18th century mode. In a 20th century mode, I like
the post-WWII broad shoulder/nipped waist look. Not quite as extreme as a
zoot suit, but showing the influence. Perhaps I will pay more attention
to the post-Napoleonic if "Vanity Fair" was a decent representation.....

Karen
(and let's not forget the attraction of a man in a kilt!) 

On Tue, 26 Oct 1999 12:19:14 EDT AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 10/26/1999 11:19:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> seamstrix@juno.com writes:
> 
> << I never thought of the
>  1820's as being a particularly 'manly' period of costume.  >>
> 
> Really? As compared to.... what?....petticoat breeches? The late 
> 18th & early 
> 19th centuries are fantastic for men. All that equestrian influence 
> and the 
> tailored look still with some flare before it later all becomes dark 
> colors 
> with no trim. It's the best!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 12:19:15 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E63781EA7DB@scl-exch.phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: putting powder in pourpoints
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

Cynthia asked:
> Vermeil: what could "mingled" possibly mean in this context?  A variety of
> colors? a 2-toned damask?
>
Yes, a warp of one colour and a weft of a different colour.

> Did you have a guess on "c'est assavoir";
>
"it's to know that..."?

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 12:38:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 22:26:25 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: Indian pashmani shawls
In-Reply-To: <38152BB5.59504149@worldnet.att.net>
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 <3814FFEA.DE1F3125@rica.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>> Lots of fun things to drool over in this production.  Sure wish I could
>> find some of those gorgeous Indian shawls.  Yummy.
>
>Funny you should mention that - I was reading in the LA Times last week
>about indian pashmanis shawls which are the *hot* fashion item this
>season.  Not entirely period looking from the sound of it, but they
>mentioned that many of the upper end shawls had nice metallic
>embroideries on them.  I'm looking forward to these hitting the second
>hand market in a few years (btw, they pointed out that the word
>"pashmani" means a combination of silk and cashmere fibers - that's
>all).

Well, start watching the saree stores.  They ought to have them cheaper
than anyone else.  More to the point, they ought to actually have them.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 10/26/1999 11:19:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> seamstrix@juno.com writes:
> 
> << I never thought of the
>  1820's as being a particularly 'manly' period of costume.  >>
> 
> Really? As compared to.... what?....petticoat breeches? The late 18th & early
> 19th centuries are fantastic for men. All that equestrian influence and the
> tailored look still with some flare before it later all becomes dark colors
> with no trim. It's the best!
That's why I do Georgian re-enactment such a pleasure to attend the
events!!!

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 13:05:06 1999
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From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

I've been taping it both nights. sorry it took so long to reply I haven't been able to get into my email the past few days. I love the light green/sea foam and goldish dress Becky wears a couple of times. and of course they are all so pretty, accurate or not. and then there's Colonel crawly, he's a cutie!, looks a lot like Ciaran Hinds, I think he's the same man that played Edward Rochester in Wide Sargasso Sea. Anyway, lots to drool over all the way around. :)
---
Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 13:38:21 1999
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I'm wondering if the "Vanity Fair" you people across the pond are discussing is the BBC production of a year or two ago (Miriam Margolyes played Miss Crawley and Nathaniel Parker, Rawdon)?
NB to Karen - the novel is by Thackeray, not Jane Austen (much more cynical!) and the story runs from about 1812-1830. Although I re-enact English Civil War,  I adore the fashions of the Napoleonic era and second AlbertCat's opinion of the men's clothes of the time


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 14:47:09 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 20:59:14 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: fishnets
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <0.5946cddc.2540b770@aol.com>, Marionetta@aol.com writes
>Hi all,
>
>Just got back from seeing the Brassai exhibit at the National Gallery.  He 
>photographed Paris in the late 20s early 30s, with a lot of photos of 
>''underground" Paris and portraits of the famous artists of the day.  Anyway, 
>I noticed that several of the women in the pictures (one in an opium den and 
>other in a brothel I think...) were wearing fishnet stockings and it got me 
>wondering how long fishnets have been around.  Also, in these particular 
>pictures they seemed to be worn by women of "questionable morals."  Has there 
>long been an association with fishnets and risque women?  My books were 
>silent on the subject, anyone know?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Loren Dearborn
>marionetta@aol.com

I'm not sure, but it sounds to me as if you yourself wouldn't normally
associate fishnets with "risque" women?  I do, automatically.  As soon
as I'm cast as a "dancer who might offer a bit more than just dancing"
(it happens a lot), out they come!  I very occasionally come across
someone wearing them in real life, and I would look at them very
askance.

I was wondering when and why fishnets came about?  I wonder if they were
thought naughty because you could see real bare flesh through the holes?
Were they ever (or are they still, in some places) worn just as everyday
hosiery? 
-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 14:55:03 1999
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From: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <8bXrpFASggF4IwuF@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: fishnets
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:08:42 -0500
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-Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>

We wore them in the late 1960's to school !  It was definitely a fashion
statement and EVERYBODY  wore them.

Guinevere
----- Original Message -----
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: fishnets


>
> -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
> In message <0.5946cddc.2540b770@aol.com>, Marionetta@aol.com writes
> >Hi all,
> >
> >Just got back from seeing the Brassai exhibit at the National Gallery.
He
> >photographed Paris in the late 20s early 30s, with a lot of photos of
> >''underground" Paris and portraits of the famous artists of the day.
Anyway,
> >I noticed that several of the women in the pictures (one in an opium den
and
> >other in a brothel I think...) were wearing fishnet stockings and it got
me
> >wondering how long fishnets have been around.  Also, in these particular
> >pictures they seemed to be worn by women of "questionable morals."  Has
there
> >long been an association with fishnets and risque women?  My books were
> >silent on the subject, anyone know?
> >
> >Cheers,
> >
> >Loren Dearborn
> >marionetta@aol.com
>
> I'm not sure, but it sounds to me as if you yourself wouldn't normally
> associate fishnets with "risque" women?  I do, automatically.  As soon
> as I'm cast as a "dancer who might offer a bit more than just dancing"
> (it happens a lot), out they come!  I very occasionally come across
> someone wearing them in real life, and I would look at them very
> askance.
>
> I was wondering when and why fishnets came about?  I wonder if they were
> thought naughty because you could see real bare flesh through the holes?
> Were they ever (or are they still, in some places) worn just as everyday
> hosiery?
> --
> Jean Waddie
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 15:05:41 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 13:20:48 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: fishnets
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
>
>In message <0.5946cddc.2540b770@aol.com>, Marionetta@aol.com writes
>>Hi all,
>>
>>Just got back from seeing the Brassai exhibit at the National Gallery.  He
>>photographed Paris in the late 20s early 30s, with a lot of photos of
>>''underground" Paris and portraits of the famous artists of the day.
>>Anyway,
>>I noticed that several of the women in the pictures (one in an opium den and
>>other in a brothel I think...) were wearing fishnet stockings and it got me
>>wondering how long fishnets have been around.  Also, in these particular
>>pictures they seemed to be worn by women of "questionable morals."  Has
>>there
>>long been an association with fishnets and risque women?  My books were
>>silent on the subject, anyone know?
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>Loren Dearborn
>>marionetta@aol.com
>
>I'm not sure, but it sounds to me as if you yourself wouldn't normally
>associate fishnets with "risque" women?  I do, automatically.  As soon
>as I'm cast as a "dancer who might offer a bit more than just dancing"
>(it happens a lot), out they come!  I very occasionally come across
>someone wearing them in real life, and I would look at them very
>askance.
>
>I was wondering when and why fishnets came about?  I wonder if they were
>thought naughty because you could see real bare flesh through the holes?
>Were they ever (or are they still, in some places) worn just as everyday
>hosiery?
>--
>Jean Waddie


Around 1960-62 (?), in San Francisco, they were acceptable wear with
Correge boots.  I had a pair of white ones and even my mother thought they
were acceptable.  As a matter of fact, she bought them for me; I had never
even heard of them before.  I remember wearing them to church on several
occassions - and we went to a very traditional church.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 16:09:26 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <8bXrpFASggF4IwuF@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: fishnets
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 3:59 PM



> I was wondering when and why fishnets came about?

Oh goodness!
Hmm, Drat these fatigue-induced brain lapses!

I can remember just recently running across fishnets offered in one of my
Victorianish vintage & reproduction suppliers, and thinking it odd as I'd
never seen that particular type of hose with any fashions of the era, but I
can't for the life of me remember (or find) the source!

I *do* recall that as mentioned they seemed intentioned for everyday wear
into society, no "naughty" association at all.

I'll keep leafing through my catalogues and browsing my favourite
websites--if I find the darn things again I'll post. =)

Sleepily,
Kerrie

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 16:09:27 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: fishnets
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 14:14:12 -0700
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

We all wore them till we got tired of squirming around in those hard desk
seats all day.  Those things are a pain to sit down in/on 50 minutes at a
time.  Especially in a miniskirt.

I know someone told me once that the idea is to make your legs look naked
without the tedious jiggling that naked legs are subject to.  That could
have just been one dancer's opinion, of course.

Hi gang. I'm back! <grin>

Cheers!

	MaggiRos

A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net



> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Diane M. Mathews [SMTP:camelothorse@earthlink.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, October 26, 1999 9:09 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	Re: H-COST: fishnets
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
> 
> We wore them in the late 1960's to school !  It was definitely a fashion
> statement and EVERYBODY  wore them.
> 
> Guinevere
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 2:59 PM
> Subject: Re: H-COST: fishnets
> 
> 
> >
> > -Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
> >
> > In message <0.5946cddc.2540b770@aol.com>, Marionetta@aol.com writes
> > >Hi all,
> > >
> > >Just got back from seeing the Brassai exhibit at the National Gallery.
> He
> > >photographed Paris in the late 20s early 30s, with a lot of photos of
> > >''underground" Paris and portraits of the famous artists of the day.
> Anyway,
> > >I noticed that several of the women in the pictures (one in an opium
> den
> and
> > >other in a brothel I think...) were wearing fishnet stockings and it
> got
> me
> > >wondering how long fishnets have been around.  Also, in these
> particular
> > >pictures they seemed to be worn by women of "questionable morals."  Has
> there
> > >long been an association with fishnets and risque women?  My books were
> > >silent on the subject, anyone know?
> > >
> > >Cheers,
> > >
> > >Loren Dearborn
> > >marionetta@aol.com
> >
> > I'm not sure, but it sounds to me as if you yourself wouldn't normally
> > associate fishnets with "risque" women?  I do, automatically.  As soon
> > as I'm cast as a "dancer who might offer a bit more than just dancing"
> > (it happens a lot), out they come!  I very occasionally come across
> > someone wearing them in real life, and I would look at them very
> > askance.
> >
> > I was wondering when and why fishnets came about?  I wonder if they were
> > thought naughty because you could see real bare flesh through the holes?
> > Were they ever (or are they still, in some places) worn just as everyday
> > hosiery?
> > --
> > Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 16:22:33 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <2CE99B08DC@mdx-ref1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Treasure Trove!!
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-Poster: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>


Copies? Scans? 

Sidne Kneeland 
(Psychotherapy is expensive, bubble wrap is cheap.  You choose)

Sent: Thursday, October 21, 1999 7:17 AM
Subject: H-COST: Treasure Trove!!


> 
> -Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> 
> Oooh!  
> 
> One of our Subject Librarians has just weeded her book stock and 
> passed some stuff my way.
> 
> I've just been given a stack of back issues of "Costume: The journal 
> of the Costume Society"... Issues No 3 to No 27... a quick glance 
> through has shown up several articles by Janet Arnold.
> 
> Am I a Lucky Bunny or what?
> 
> 
> Teddy
> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> air and darkness, apparently!)
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 16:37:32 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I remember wearing them as gartered stockings in the early sixties
(before mini-skirts).  No problems with sitting since they didn't go
that high, but they hurt your feet if you didn't wear another pair of
stockings underneath!  Mine were white nylon net and did help warm up
our cold legs (no pants allowed at school then).  I don't believe
pantyhose were available at that time, and tights were only for
dancers.  How the world has changed.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 16:58:26 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 14:07:03 -0800
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

that's the one I'm talking about. I assumed everyone else was too. It's on A & E here in the US. and yes now I remember Nathaniel Parker yes...mmm...yes that's his name, *giggle*
---
Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure

 

>I'm wondering if the "Vanity Fair" you people across the pond are discussing is the BBC production of a year or two ago (Miriam Margolyes played Miss Crawley and Nathaniel Parker, Rawdon)?




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 17:03:41 1999
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 <3816230A.6609E305@mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:25:48 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: fishnets
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
>
>I remember wearing them as gartered stockings in the early sixties
>(before mini-skirts).  No problems with sitting since they didn't go
>that high, but they hurt your feet if you didn't wear another pair of
>stockings underneath!  Mine were white nylon net and did help warm up
>our cold legs (no pants allowed at school then).  I don't believe
>pantyhose were available at that time, and tights were only for
>dancers.  How the world has changed.

Yeah, my first pair of fish net stockings were sort of olive green. I 
wore them with a mushroom brown A-line skirt and olive green mary 
janes of a non-standard shape (odd shaped toe - strap down toward the 
toe) with a garter belt. This was in junior high in the early 1960's.

I still have some of my stockings from the 60's and early 70's - one 
pair is copper mesh, looks rather like a pot scrubber. I might even 
still have my white lace garter belt somewhere. When i show this 
stuff to my daughter she thinks we were nuts. And the stockings don't 
really go up all that high, but then, our skirts were not very short. 
Even the first mini-skirts, at least where i grew up, were barely 
over the kneecap and were considered quite shocking. As mini-skirts 
got shorter, the stockings (yes, still stockings) got longer. By high 
school (mid to late 60's) i would wear two different colored 
stockings together (day glo orange and day glo pink) with dresses i'd 
buy in the children's department (i could squeeze into a size 12, 
although it was sometimes a little tight in the "chest")

As for pantyhose, no they didn't exist. Tights, however, did exist, 
but were only worn by little girls (one brand was called "Suzy 
Longlegs), ice skaters, and dancers. I had a number of them made by 
Capezio, but they came in really limited colors: black, navy, white, 
red, pink. Eventually there was purple. They were all fairly heavy 
weight.

Finally, and it didn't take too long, a thinner weight of tights 
replaced stockings for those of us in mini-skirts - If you see the 
movie "Blow Up", you'll notice (A) Vanessa Redgrave's mini-skirt is 
quite long, and (B) most of the groupies are wearing colored tights.

Lilinah
who gets nostalgic when she sees the costumes in the Austin Power's movies

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 17:39:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 18:52:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chamberlain <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
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-Poster: Chamberlain <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

And my strange question for the day is...
 I have an old pendant of my grandmother's. It no longer has a chain and
nothing I've tried it on looks right to me. Any suggestions of where I
could find examples of antique jewelry? I think the pendant is from the
20's or 30's but I'm not really sure so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Beth

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/26/1999 1:31:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
seamstrix@juno.com writes:

<< No, petticoat breeches don't make my 'manly' costume list, >>

I was being a smart ass.....as  usual.
It is interesting that any period can produce butch as well as fop. Some more 
readily than others. There IS a way to be butch in petticoat breeches & a 
full bottomed wig.....somehow. Just as there are Elizabethan [a period 
definitely butch] fops. So to with the manly & proper Edwardian man.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 17:44:14 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: braveheart
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I am interested to hear so many people's opinions of "Braveheart," because it 
was such a popular film. Here is my experience with it: My husband and I saw 
it in the theater and really liked it. In fact, we raved about it. Then we 
checked out the real history (we have a strange habit of doing that . . .) 
and found, as usual with a historical film, that it was much more 
interesting. The prince, though gay, was actually an accomplished tournament 
fighter who was quite admired, though everyone hated him because he played 
favorites. William Wallace introduced a lot of interesting group fighting 
techniques and strategies. The princess was only 11 years old at the time. Of 
course, there was never any "prima nocte" anywhere. Etc., etc., etc. And even 
at the film, I thought the first hour was boring (I, however, don't mind 
looking at lots of shots of Mel Gibson!). Anyway, despite thinking the real 
thing would have made a better story, we still liked the movie -- or so we 
thought. Then I bought the video for my husband as a gift (he requested it) 
and I couldn't even make it through the video. It was AWFUL! And the SCRIPT! 
William Wallace's speeches before battles wouldn't inspire a high school 
football team! Anyway, there were some parts I liked (the fact that the 
characters spoke numerous languages, for instance, which is rarely addressed 
in medieval films; and the whole idea that being married might be important 
to anyone is sadly left out of most movies) but on the whole we both agree 
that it stunk.

We had the same experience with "Batman," which we thought was great the 
first time. Then we went to see it again for $1 and sat through it in 
complete silence. I realized that it made no sense at all and was one of the 
worst films I'd ever seen. We walked out of the theater in silence. Finally, 
in the car, I said that I was a little disappointed in it the second time. My 
husband said he'd hated it! We both wanted to leave all the way through, but 
stayed because we thought the other liked the movie! And they've made how many
 other Batman movies since then?? Surely the quality hasn't gotten any better.

Oh well. Strange things happen in Hollywood.

Gail

PS: "Batman" reminded me of "The Shadow," which is entertaining and far 
superior to "Batman." Anyway, the costumes are FANTASTIC. Margo Lane's white 
bias cut evening gown is spectacular, and the Khan wears a wonderful huge 
robe of some kind that seems to be alive in one scene. . .

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 17:49:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 19:11:44 +0000
From: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

What I've usually seen with this type of bodice is 3 pieces in the front and 2
in the back. The side pieces go from the side to 1/3 of the chest, the middle
pieces from mid breast to mid breast. ( Sorry for the graphic pic but it's the
best explanation I have) This allows you to make adjustments without darts.
Check the visual hist of coustume series and Milla Davenport for period pics.
!9th cent redrawings are often not shaped right and are romanticised. Hope
this helps

Raella

Kris wrote:

> -Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
>
> >-Poster: Diana H <dch@inreach.com>
> >I have to ask firstly if you are trying to make your dress a
> >historically researched work or if you just want the look that you see
> >in this picture.  If the former is the case, then I recommend that you
> >don't use this picture.  It not a good resource because it is an Italian
> >artists version of a German gown that has been re-drawn.  The partlet
>
> Yeah.. I know it's not a good example :] I have all sorts of photocopies
> here at home, but with no scanner, I can't get them up onto my site.. I've
> found another that's *slightly* better.
> http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE34AX.HTML
>
> You see how the bust is being supported somewhat in a Victorian shape? (I
> know that could be part of the re-drawing of the figures in the book :] But
> I've seen it in a couple of library books too..) *that's* what I want. The
> sleeves are the way I've got mine done, and I'd REALLY appreciate it if
> someone could point me towards the original for this drawing. PLEASE! :]
>
> I'm finding that I have a major problem getting the curve of the bust. I'm
> having one heck of a time fitting it. I know what style of bodice I need,
> and I've got the sleeves and the shoulder area down pat, but that one,
> important spot is driving me nuts! The one I made last weekend ended up
> having a somewhat flat front on it, that I had to bone it because it was
> wrinkling so badly. And I used canvas and about 5 or 6 pieces of heavy
> interfacing basted together. *sigh* It looks good, but it's not what I was
> trying to achieve.
>
> Kris
>
> ps.. I've seen many portraits of the young women having a sheer shawl
> tucked around their neckline into the top of the bodice when the bodice is
> very low cut. I think the pictures were italian or dutch, but could that
> apply to a young german girl too?
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 17:50:43 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Anyone watching Vanity Fair?
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:58:32 -0700
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I think Sam Neill does pretty well by both in "Restoration".  He even
manages to look dangerous.  It's manner and carriage and the all important
attitude that makes the difference.  Plus you have to be looking at the man,
not just the wrapper.

Cheers!

Maggie Secara
secaram@mainsaver.com

A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net

Leap, and the net will appear.
	--Orson Wells

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	AlbertCat@aol.com [SMTP:AlbertCat@aol.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, October 26, 1999 11:54 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	Re: H-COST: Anyone watching Vanity Fair?
> 
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 10/26/1999 1:31:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> seamstrix@juno.com writes:
> 
> << No, petticoat breeches don't make my 'manly' costume list, >>
> 
> I was being a smart ass.....as  usual.
> It is interesting that any period can produce butch as well as fop. Some
> more 
> readily than others. There IS a way to be butch in petticoat breeches & a 
> full bottomed wig.....
> 
	[...]
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 17:51:07 1999
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From: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Deeply Cut Sleeves (Pourpoints & Houppelands)
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

If the citations wander back, let me know. : )

Raella

Marc Carlson wrote:

> -Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
>
> <Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>>
> > This is cool! I've only seen this sleeve and shoulder construction
> > with men's 14th cent.
>
> That's what I thought as well, although I have now seen a few
> paintings  (the citations for which have wandered off this evening)
> with this sort of cut on woman's gowns.  The range of arm movement,
> though is really interesting.
>
> Marc

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 16:10:45 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Old jewelry -OT
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Chamberlain <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
>And my strange question for the day is...
> I have an old pendant of my grandmother's. It no longer has a chain and
>nothing I've tried it on looks right to me. Any suggestions of where I
>could find examples of antique jewelry? I think the pendant is from the
>20's or 30's but I'm not really sure so any help would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance
>Beth
>
But Beth, it's NOT OT; it's accessorizing!

My sister collects antique jewelry and she has a sizable library of books
to help her figure out what she's got, so there's books out there specific
to jewelry.  Many large libraries should have books in either the jewelry
section or the antique section.  There are many at bookstores to look at
also - Barnes and Noble had several books on antique jewelry the last time
I looked - I was looking for one my sister didn't have.

Good luck.

LynnD
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Praire Dresses
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 16:14:38 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Actually, at one time McCall's had a very nice version of a "prairie" 
wrapper, that is close to an original I photographed and examined belonging 
to a lady in North Carolina, circa mid-1870s, and also is frequently seen in 
photographs c. 1870 - 1890.  I don't think it is still available though.. I 
have it, it is McCall's 7198.  You might be able to find it through some of 
the companies that hold archival patterns.  It was from the MartiMitchell 
collection and featured a separate apron and had options for shoulder 
ruffles... by and large, the present offerings are pretty farby, IMHO.
Better to try Past Patterns #711, 1860s (late 60s) Homestead Dress, or #803, 
1850s Pioneer Dress.
For a nice (and cheap) overview of Pioneer wrappers, check out Calico 
Chronicle, by Betty Mills, avail. from Texas Tech. press, at Amazon 
DryGoods.

Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris



>From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Praire Dresses
>Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 23:26:40 -0400
>
>
>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
>A new question for all of you:  is there a pattern from the big three
>(simplicity, McCall's, Butterick, etc.) for a praire dress that has any
>basis in reality?  For example, Simplicity 8755 has little sleeve ruffles
>and a hat that I can't figure out.  I know McCalls has two patterns, don't
>have the numbers handy, one of which looks to be like a standard Renn Faire
>chemise with a belt.  Which would be the closest to what was?  Or are all 
>of
>these merely TV versions of a child's dress?  (Bear with me, this is not my
>area of study at all).  Any pointers?  Thank you.
>
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 18:01:07 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 19:23:27 +0000
From: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

In case you're interested there's a book , A pictorial History of
Turkish Dance that has a lot of cool pictures and dance info.

Raella

"Hope H. Dunlap" wrote:

> -Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
>
> In response to an earlier comment about a middle eastern
> dancer "earning her dowry coins" by dancing in the street,
> I'm curious where this idea came from and what culture.  In
> the Turkish Ethnographic Museum in Bursa, there is a series
> of bridal garments depicted for the eighteenth century, each
> one of which involves a good deal of coinage.  These are the
> wedding costumes of virgins who remained all of their lives
> in seclusion.  Painters visiting Turkey were only able to
> paint the rare female dancer, as no other women (the vast
> majority, rich or poor) were shielded from males eyes.
> (Hence so few depictions of women among hundreds of images
> of men.)  If any of the brides had danced in the street, it
> would have disqualified them for marriage.  The coins have a
> symbolism that extends beyond the dancer.  The h-cost writer
> makes a great story, but is there any shred of historic
> authencenticity  to it?  It is not a subject I know much
> about, admittedly.
>
> Hope H. Dunlap
>

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Subject: Re: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
>
>What I've usually seen with this type of bodice is 3 pieces in the front and 2
>in the back. The side pieces go from the side to 1/3 of the chest, the middle
>pieces from mid breast to mid breast. ( Sorry for the graphic pic but it's the
>best explanation I have)

I've never seen an early 16th c German gown cut like this. Can you provide
some specific sources?

>Check the visual hist of coustume series and Milla Davenport for period pics.

I can't recall seeing German gowns in them. Do you describe some specifics?

>> ps.. I've seen many portraits of the young women having a sheer shawl
>> tucked around their neckline into the top of the bodice when the bodice is
>> very low cut. I think the pictures were italian or dutch, but could that
>> apply to a young german girl too?

Yes.

Julie Adams


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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com



On Tue, 26 Oct 1999 18:53:54 EDT AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 10/26/1999 1:31:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> seamstrix@juno.com writes:
> 
> << No, petticoat breeches don't make my 'manly' costume list, >>
> 
> I was being a smart ass.....as  usual.
And it's just one of the things we love you for. ;-)

> It is interesting that any period can produce butch as well as fop. 
> Some more 
> readily than others. There IS a way to be butch in petticoat 
> breeches & a 
> full bottomed wig.....somehow. Just as there are Elizabethan [a 
> period definitely butch] fops. So to with the manly & proper Edwardian
man.
The clothing may make the man on occasion, but the man always makes the
clothing. There are some guys who just look fab in whatever they wear,
and there are other guys who need all the help they can get. And yes,
Elizabethan is a wonderfully attractive style. It's just that I talk
about that era so ofter, I thought I'd expound on some other eras for a
change. 

And Austen....Thackery.....Regency novels, who can keep them all
straight......lots of manners, not much sex. 8-)

Karen




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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Praire Dresses
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:26 PM 10/25/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
>A new question for all of you:  is there a pattern from the big three
>(simplicity, McCall's, Butterick, etc.) for a praire dress that has any
>basis in reality?  For example, Simplicity 8755 has little sleeve ruffles
>and a hat that I can't figure out. 

the Simplicity pattern is really quite good for the 1880's, including the
sleeve ruffles.  I made it (after altering it up to a size 26) with the
following changes:  I ditched the zipper up the back and put buttons and
holes in front, on the yoke.  I left the front seam open to waist level, and
wore it with a waist tied apron that holds it closed.  I also lengthened the
dress to 2" off the ground.  This style is really a wrapper, which in period
would probably have had a fitted inner bodice.  I didn't make one, and don't
miss it. 

I almost never use commercial patterns, but this one was almost identical to
the style I was planning to draft after much research.  It went together in
an afternoon, and is so comfortable I'm going to make it up in cotton
flannel for home wear this winter.  

The bonnet is certainly strange though.  I don't even care if it's period,
I'm just not putting something that ugly on my head.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 18:58:16 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>One thing i have always wondered. Why dont the museum hire some people
>who can draft the costumes to pattern. I am sure that there would be a
>big sale on those items, it could pay itself and more i think. Why dont
>they do this? They could sell it from the museum shop.

I can't name any names, but someone is working on this idea right now.  (no,
not me).

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 19:08:14 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'H-Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Ordinary folks--mid-late 17th century Caribbean
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 17:16:09 -0700
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Hello again. 

I have done something foolish and wonderful and well, here's what I mean.
My first novel is generating some belated interest. I say belated because I
"finished" it almost 10 years ago and although it had some nibbles at the
time, it never sold.  Just recently, I have had an agent express enthusiasm,
so of course I've embarked on the adventure of putting some new shine on it,
taking some very good suggestions, and extending it by a couple of chapters
to tie up loose ends I was too exausted to see at the time.  

My costume problem is, it takes place in the 1670s.  That's a hundred years
or more after any of the clothes I know well. Now I have found some
wonderful online sources for fashion plates and paintings of the nobility,
but most of my characters don't spend much time in fancy clothes--except for
the party in chapter 2 and the wedding at the very very end.  The action
takes place entirely in and around Port Royal, Jamaica.  Most of the
characters are English.  It's the mid-1670s.   And while clothes don't take
up all that much space in a novel, no matter how well researched, I'd like
to make sure I'm not ripping the wrong sort of bodices (joke! joke! No
bodice ripping, I swear! :)

Can someone point me in the right direction for ordinary people's clothes?
I don't want to get the catalog of my costume errors a week after (crossing
my fingers) publication

Help!

MaggiRos
~All my men wear a sword or they wear nothing at all!


A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 19:26:32 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I was wondering when and why fishnets came about?  I wonder if they were
>thought naughty because you could see real bare flesh through the holes?
>Were they ever (or are they still, in some places) worn just as everyday
>hosiery? 

Yes.  the year I was 12, which would have been 1969,  white fishnet
stockings were de riguer for girls my age, and older teens, to wear to
school.  this was in a very small town in Northern California, where styles
tended to be 3-5 years behind the times, so they may have bee popular around
66 or so in more sophisticated areas. 

I remember them particularly because it was my first experience with wearing
garter stockings, and I found them horribly uncomfortable.  Between the
fishnets cutting into my toes and sitting on the garters, it was torture.
It may explain why we were so happy shortly afterwards, when pantyhose
(which I detest now) came in.  

Margo


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Masques
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-Poster: karolee@fenris.net (Karolee Smiley)

>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>I have seen one or two pictures showing people in masque clothing,
>Elizabeth I included.  But I was wondering if someone could give me
>just some general pointers about pre-1600 masques.
>
>1.  Were masques popular *before* 1500, say 1350?
>
>2.  Were masks worn

Note-the difference between the "masque" and "mask"
masks go back through ancient times.  The masque is a participatory play.
These developed during the renaissance and became extremely popular during
the Jacobean time-Ben Johnson was well known for his masques.

>
>3.  Would all clothing norms have flown out the window so to speak?
>For instance if the masque took place in Elizabeth's court would women
>have chosen not to wear their corsets if the outfit was say, Greek in
>the year 300c.e. ?
>
Inigo Jones designed special costumes and sets for the masques that went
with the story.  Many of these were very fantastical and some quite risque.
Some of the classical examples I've seen seem a bit Minoan, with small
bodice and their breasts exposed.  It didn't look greek at all, of course
it doesn't look renaissance either.


>4.   What types of themes might have been popular?


Masques were plays, and many were based on classical myths (part of that
Greek revival thing)


Good masque sources- look up books on Ben Johnson and Inigo Jones.  They
were eknown for thier excellent work in the masques for the Jacobean court.
Masked balls, were all the guests were masks (like Halloween) is
completely different and significantly later in period.  I did some
research on masques a while ago, and my husband studies music history.  He
could forward you names for referencing masque composers if necessary.

Hope that helps.

Karolee J. Smiley


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 19:48:58 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Ordinary folks--mid-late 17th century Caribbean
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 01:02:48 GMT
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-Poster: ben@hrofi.demon.co.uk

Try http://www.kipar.org and go to the galleties - there are
contemporary costumes by decade from 1660-1700 there

Ben

On Tue, 26 Oct 1999 17:16:09 -0700, you wrote:

>
>-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
>
>Hello again. 
>
>I have done something foolish and wonderful and well, here's what I mean.
>My first novel is generating some belated interest. I say belated because I
>"finished" it almost 10 years ago and although it had some nibbles at the
>time, it never sold.  Just recently, I have had an agent express enthusiasm,
>so of course I've embarked on the adventure of putting some new shine on it,
>taking some very good suggestions, and extending it by a couple of chapters
>to tie up loose ends I was too exausted to see at the time.  
>
>My costume problem is, it takes place in the 1670s.  That's a hundred years
>or more after any of the clothes I know well. Now I have found some
>wonderful online sources for fashion plates and paintings of the nobility,
>but most of my characters don't spend much time in fancy clothes--except for
>the party in chapter 2 and the wedding at the very very end.  The action
>takes place entirely in and around Port Royal, Jamaica.  Most of the
>characters are English.  It's the mid-1670s.   And while clothes don't take
>up all that much space in a novel, no matter how well researched, I'd like
>to make sure I'm not ripping the wrong sort of bodices (joke! joke! No
>bodice ripping, I swear! :)
>
>Can someone point me in the right direction for ordinary people's clothes?
>I don't want to get the catalog of my costume errors a week after (crossing
>my fingers) publication
>
>Help!
>
>MaggiRos
>~All my men wear a sword or they wear nothing at all!
>
>
>A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
>is at http://ren.dm.net
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 20:28:26 1999
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Ren Faire belly dancers (was Gypsies and dancers)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 21:47:08 -0400
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-Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>

Sounds wonderful!!

At Topkapi Palace, music was supplied to the Sultans chamber
from an adjoining room where an all-female "band" played,
the music filtering in through an interior window.  The
original "stereo" in the corner, it would have supplied nice
accompaniment for a dancer.

Thanks, Hope



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com
[mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Jean Zerby
> Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 3:23 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Ren Faire belly dancers (was Gypsies and dancers)
>
>
> -Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
>
> In case you're interested there's a book , A pictorial History of
> Turkish Dance that has a lot of cool pictures and dance info.
>
> Raella
>
> "Hope H. Dunlap" wrote:
>
> > -Poster: "Hope H. Dunlap" <hhdunlap@msn.com>
> >
> > In response to an earlier comment about a middle eastern
> > dancer "earning her dowry coins" by dancing in the street,
> > I'm curious where this idea came from and what culture.  In
> > the Turkish Ethnographic Museum in Bursa, there is a series
> > of bridal garments depicted for the eighteenth century, each
> > one of which involves a good deal of coinage.  These are the
> > wedding costumes of virgins who remained all of their lives
> > in seclusion.  Painters visiting Turkey were only able to
> > paint the rare female dancer, as no other women (the vast
> > majority, rich or poor) were shielded from males eyes.
> > (Hence so few depictions of women among hundreds of images
> > of men.)  If any of the brides had danced in the street, it
> > would have disqualified them for marriage.  The coins have a
> > symbolism that extends beyond the dancer.  The h-cost writer
> > makes a great story, but is there any shred of historic
> > authencenticity  to it?  It is not a subject I know much
> > about, admittedly.
> >
> > Hope H. Dunlap


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 20:52:58 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Vintage" <vintage@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: NYU Fashion Conference
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 22:08:47 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I was passed this information and thought some of you might be interested.
Later... Penny

****************************************************************************

Please join us at "The American Century: America's Fashion
Ascendancy and Its Roots," a conference to be held from Thursday
evening, November 4th through Saturday, November 6th.  Offered by
NYU's School of Continuing and Professional Studies, the
conference will examine the inception, rise, and power of American
fashion in the 20th century.

The conference considers designers and the fashions they created;
institutions and individuals who collect and preserve American
fashion; and the many aspects of marketing the American Look.

For more information, visit the Web site at
http://nyu.preferredmail.com/X?/6914-32772150/fashion

To register for the conference using a major credit card, call
(212)998-7171 on or before October 28. After that date call
(212) 998-7130.

Tuition for the conference is $250 plus a $20 registration fee.
The cost to attend for one day only is $125 plus a $20
registration fee.

The conference will feature:
..Lectures by renowned authorities, including: legendary retailer,
Stanley Marcus; one of America¹s great designers, James Galanos;
and creator of the signature wrap dress, Diane Von Furstenberg.

..Panel discussions with guest presenters: Vera Wang, fashion
designer; CNN style editor, Elsa Klensch; and designers of
distinctive accessories: Judith Leiber, Patricia Underwood, and
Robert Lee Morris, among other notable and influential industry
leaders.

..Book signings to be held at Steelcase for The American Century
written by Harold Evans and published by Alfred A. Knopf; and at
Tiffany & Co. for Tiffany Jewels written by John Loring and
published by Harry N. Abrams, Inc.

..A breakfast and private viewing of "Fashion on Stage: Couture
for the Broadway Theater, 1910-1955," an exhibit at the Museum of
the City of New York.

..A closing reception will be held at Saks Fifth Avenue.

June Weir, former vice-president, Fairchild Publications and Lisa
Koenigsberg, director, Programs in the Arts and adjunct associate
professor at the School of Continuing and Professional Studies,
will co-direct the conference.

"The American Century: America's Fashion Ascendancy and Its Roots"
is offered under the aegis of the program in appraisal studies in
fine and decorative arts which is a part of The Division of Arts,
Sciences, and Humanities.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 21:11:44 1999
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From: "christianna del Oro" <chritikat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: LOTS of questions
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 19:26:07 PDT
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-Poster: "christianna del Oro" <chritikat@hotmail.com>





        first anyone know any good online sources for  italian ren patterns? 
  i had a overdress that just tied ( one tie) in front to hold it closed it 
had  2 or 3 part sleeves chained to it.  It looked like it would be 
relativly easy too make i can't get a hold of the person who loaned it too 
me for lender garb, and it has since disapeared from sight.  i would really 
like to get the pattern or source for it.


      second i need tips on making a dove gray very soft suede jacket into a 
womens bodice? i guess i'll have use rivets for the holes

       and third does anyone know what happened to the sca site at kumc.edu  
????




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From: "christianna del Oro" <chritikat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: one more q
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-Poster: "christianna del Oro" <chritikat@hotmail.com>




>does any one know where  or have instructions for griest sewing assesories? 
>  i think i have kit # 4 or 6



                     thanks

                    christianna

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: LOTS of questions
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-Poster: "christianna del Oro" <chritikat@hotmail.com>





        first anyone know any good online sources for  italian ren patterns? 
  i had a overdress that just tied ( one ribbon tie) in front to hold it 
closed it had  2 or 3 part sleeves chained to it.it had a relativly short  
bodice ending around the bottom of the breasts and it had a full pleated 
bottom.  It looked like it would be relativly easy too make i can't get a 
hold of the person who loaned it too me for lender garb, and  i have been 
told it has since disapeared from sight.  i would really like to get the 
pattern or source for it.


      second i need tips on making a dove gray very soft suede jacket into a 
womens bodice? i guess i'll have use rivets for the holes

       and third does anyone know what happened to the sca site at kumc.edu  
????




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Oct 26 22:11:12 1999
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From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Unmistakably Mackie
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

In case anyone is interested, the catalogue from the Mackie exhibit at FIT
is available from Amazon.com for a significant discount.  Ours is on the
way!  (Wish we could see the real thing, tho! :( ]

Sandy

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 23:34:13 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: fishnets
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com


I guess I forgot about the 60s.  I wore some of my mom's 60's fishnets in the 
early 80s as a punky sort of fashion statement...but really I was wondering 
about the 20s or before then - Victorian someone said, were they around that 
long ago? How old are they?


Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Masques
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

Sorry for the late reply...

>>3.  Would all clothing norms have flown out the window so to speak?
>>For instance if the masque took place in Elizabeth's court would women
>>have chosen not to wear their corsets if the outfit was say, Greek in
>>the year 300c.e. ?
>
>In Elizabethan England, the women would have work a chiton over their court
>clothes - corsets, hoops and all.  No noblewoman would be seen without her
>proper underclothing producing the correct silouette (sp?), even for a
>masque.

At least one piece of evidence to the contrary exists.  The "Rainbow"
portrait of Queen Elizabeth, which was painted c. 1603, clearly shows her
without the huge barrel-shaped farthingale that appears in other portraits
of the Queen in her last decade.  Janet Arnold speculates that this, when
considered with the fantastic headdress and other elements of the painting,
may suggest that this costume was for a masque.  I must mention that she
certainly does seem to be wearing proper stays.

Melanie


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-Poster: Gwnvr@aol.com

Flash to the past!  I was 12 in 1969, too, and living in a small town in 
Texas.  One of my most embarrassing moments revolved around those stockings 
and a rather short dress.  (Not a good mix)  As I turned in a test paper at 
the front of the classroom, I leaned forward to staple my papers together  
thus revealing the top of the stockings and garters.  Of course everyone 
began giggling and I was mortified.  Thank God for pantyhose!  I can't even 
imagine my daughter at 12 trying to wear garters and stockings!  
                                       Jen

In a message dated 10/26/99 8:42:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<<  the year I was 12, which would have been 1969,  white fishnet
 stockings were de riguer for girls my age, and older teens, to wear to
 school.  this was in a very small town in Northern California, where styles
 tended to be 3-5 years behind the times, so they may have bee popular around
 66 or so in more sophisticated areas. 
 
 I remember them particularly because it was my first experience with wearing
 garter stockings, and I found them horribly uncomfortable.  Between the
 fishnets cutting into my toes and sitting on the garters, it was torture.
 It may explain why we were so happy shortly afterwards, when pantyhose
 (which I detest now) came in.   >>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: V&A supportasse
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> I have been to the museum several times, but when i have my partner with
> me, i must se in a rush, because he dont find it as interresting as i
> do, besides when you only have 5 days in London, there are other things
> that you have to se.

I know what you mean. There's never enough time. The gal I had 
brought to London with me as my "research assistant" was acting like 
that too. We call it "museum fatigue syndrome."   ;)

> One thing i have always wondered. Why dont the museum hire some people
> who can draft the costumes to pattern. I am sure that there would be a
> big sale on those items, it could pay itself and more i think. Why dont
> they do this? They could sell it from the museum shop.

Because the people have to have monetary backing to do it. Also, the 
people who are qualified to do it are too busy with other projects. 
(Which I suspect is why Janet Arnold didn't do it.)

> This supportasse has a "thing" in the neck where it is fastened to the
> back of the dress, and it has a special cut that i cant find out to make
> (grrrrrrrrr.)

I agree with the "grrrrr". I frequently have that reaction!

> It is odd that Janet Arnold didn't make a draft of this when it is so
> rare.

I don't think they are all that rare. I think I saw one in the 
Textile and Costume Museum in Nottingham as well. However, they don't 
allow photographs and I don't remember things like that without it. 
(I do remember all the lace they had. Much more than in their Lace 
museum there, at least pre18th C.)

> Bjarne in a cold, dark and rainy Copenhagen.

It's cold, dark and rainy here in Washington State (Vancouver 
Washington, across the Columbia River from Portland, Oregon). 
However, my girlfriend in Redmond, Oregon called saying she might not 
be able to come to visit my husband and me for Halloween weekend 
because it just snowed 3" there. I'm no longer complaining.  ;)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 01:00:14 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: watching films with costumers
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-Poster: Gwnvr@aol.com

I was just disappointed when they trotted out that tired plot device..."kill 
off the girlfriend/wife so the hero can go crazy and get the action going"  
Please, are men not motivated by anything else?  

In a message dated 10/26/99 1:04:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, scapreel@tip.nl 
writes:

<< 
 Don't start me again on Bravehaert. Somebody mentioned that th >>
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 00:59:55 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Unmistakably Mackie
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-Poster: Pandoorah@aol.com

In a message dated 10/26/99 8:26:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
costumrs@radiks.net writes:

> 
> In case anyone is interested, the catalogue from the Mackie exhibit at FIT
> is available from Amazon.com for a significant discount.  Ours is on the
>  way!  (Wish we could see the real thing, tho! :( ]
>  
>  Sandy
>  
It's a really great exhibit!  Anyone who can, should try to get in to see it!

Shannon
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 22:34:53 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Chinese headscarves for men?
In-Reply-To: <6235FD3701AA3400@c2smtp.kentlaw.edu>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:05 AM 10/08/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
                Hi, Katharine--I have two Chinese books that have many
pictures of Chinese men in hats, inc. the one you described.  If you
already have the info. you sought, I will turn them back in.  If not, I
will sit down with the books and really delve.   Please let me know. --
Gra/inne  PS  And this, thanks to our Asian Languages Reference Librarian,
Phyllis Wang, who is a Super Lady!!! :-)
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From: "suchanek" <suchanek@sprint.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: needlework cushion
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 02:09:24 -0700
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-Poster: "suchanek" <suchanek@sprint.ca>

Henk wrote:

>...the fresco's of Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Publico of =
>Siena called: Good and Bad Government and their Effects in Town and =
>Countryside, ca 1338-39. In this ensemble their is a picture of Peace =
>(Pax) as a woman dressed in a voluminous chemise resting on the armour =
>of knights. She's reclining on a large cushion of white cloth with red =
>decoration. My friend thinks these decorations are a kind of =
>openwork-embroidery (making holes and pulling them together to form =
>patterns) and that the cushion has a red lining. Is he right?

I think he is. The painting reveals enough to guess that the pillow case is
decorated with cut-work.
According to F. Nevill Jackson, "CUT-WORK, or Italian Punto Tagliato, was
made by cutting spaces out of closely-woven linen, and after buttonholing
round the sides to prevent fraying, partly filling in the space with
ornamental sitches.  Elaborate embroidery in white linen thread usually
found upon the plain linen in ancient specimens of this work.  Gradually
more of the linen was cut away, and more elaborate designs were filled in,
until mere threads were left;  these were buttonholed over, and Reticella or
Greek lace was evolved." (Old Handmade Lace, 1900).
The colour plate of the painting in a book that I have is quite small, but
still shows enough detail.  The cutwork squares have rather simple filling,
and there is a suggestion of embroidery on linen.  Even timing seems right:
the more elaborate forms of Reticella evolved in the 15th century, so it is
quite possible that the early cut-work was known in the 14th century.  I
wish I knew more facts to support my opinion, but my field of interest
starts from Reticella, which is considered to be the first 'real' lace.

Lenka




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 05:59:02 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Praire Dresses
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 04:12:53 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

After reading Margo's comments about her experience with the Simplicity 
pattern, I'll admit I am now intrigued and must make a stop at the fabric 
store this afternoon on my way from work to check it out.  Will let you know 
if I change my opinion!!  It sounds from the description very much like the 
old McCalls' pattern I was talking about, and if so, I'd recommend it.  As I 
said, will let you know.

And now, I've got to see this "ugly" bonnet you guys are talking about...

Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris


>From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Praire Dresses
>Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 17:10:12 -0700
>
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>At 11:26 PM 10/25/1999 -0400, you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> >
> >A new question for all of you:  is there a pattern from the big three
> >(simplicity, McCall's, Butterick, etc.) for a praire dress that has any
> >basis in reality?  For example, Simplicity 8755 has little sleeve ruffles
> >and a hat that I can't figure out.
>
>the Simplicity pattern is really quite good for the 1880's, including the
>sleeve ruffles.  I made it (after altering it up to a size 26) with the
>following changes:  I ditched the zipper up the back and put buttons and
>holes in front, on the yoke.  I left the front seam open to waist level, 
>and
>wore it with a waist tied apron that holds it closed.  I also lengthened 
>the
>dress to 2" off the ground.  This style is really a wrapper, which in 
>period
>would probably have had a fitted inner bodice.  I didn't make one, and 
>don't
>miss it.
>
>I almost never use commercial patterns, but this one was almost identical 
>to
>the style I was planning to draft after much research.  It went together in
>an afternoon, and is so comfortable I'm going to make it up in cotton
>flannel for home wear this winter.
>
>The bonnet is certainly strange though.  I don't even care if it's period,
>I'm just not putting something that ugly on my head.
>
>Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 06:19:43 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Strapt' shirts, c. 1778
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 04:33:29 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

I've been watching for this thread to pick back up, as others were going off 
to do a bit of research & report back (I thought?)

I examined some shirts with the pieces at the shoulders about which some of 
you were speculating could have been referred to as "straps" at the 
collection of the University of Rhode Island, of which Alda Kaye is curator, 
about two years ago.  These were coarsely woven linen, bleached to an 
off-white, and at least two of them sported these "strap"-like pieces.

Also, in Rural Pennsylvania Clothing, my copy of which is being loaned to a 
friend right now, I am certain the author Ellen Gehret refers to these 
straps and gives information as to their cutting and positioning on the 
shirts.  And if memory serves me correctly, she alludes to their being used 
as reinforcement in an area where the shirts received alot of stress and 
were apt to pull away from the neck gussets.  I know that the men for whom I 
make shirts will attest to this, and most of them who work at historic farm 
sites and many who portray soldiers prefer them for this reason.

Anyone?

Susannah


"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris





> >
> > In a message dated 9/12/1999 2:38:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > agottfre@telusplanet.net writes:
> >
> >  It would be highly unusual for the method of packing to be given on an
> >  inventory list. The inventory for 1776 lists 10 "white strapt" shirts
>(and
> >  no other kind), the 1777 inventory gives 10 "white strapt" shirts and 6
> >  "check strapt" shirts, and the 1778 inventory has 4 "cotton striped"
>shirts,
> >  6 "white strapt" shirts, and 2 "check Plain" shirts.
> >
>
>This is COMPLETE speculation, based on working-class shirts from nearly a
>century and a half later.. but could it possibly refer to a shirt that was
>meant to be worn with suspenders?
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 08:45:27 1999
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-Poster: Asia Poppers <apoppers@BBNPLANET.COM>

I seem to recall reading somewhere that in the 18-teens, at the height of
the popularity of those super-lightweight muslin gowns, it became quite
chic to wear a pair of black net hose over a pair of solid pink ones, to
give the impression of bare, rosy legs covered only in fishnet when seen
through the lightweight, semi-sheer skirt of a muslin gown.

I regret to admit that I have no idea whatsoever where I read this, and so
I can't offer any opinion as to its accuracy.  Sorry...

Asia
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 08:45:31 1999
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From: "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re:Japanese clothing
Message-Id: <941032551.1724.395@excite.com>
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-Poster: "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com>

I have another question about Japanese clothing, this one *I think* is a
kimono with a kind of hunting sleeve.  (An image of what I'm trying to make
can be seen here: 
http://www.ualberta.ca/~aziesel/inuyasha/tank5.html;  the red costume.)

I haven't been able to find a source for this kimono; I've been able to find
a garment with those sleeves for hunting (kariginu? suikan?), but always
with a tunic type body rather than a kimono.  It's supposed to be from 15th
century Japan, but it is a comic book so I have no way of knowing how
authentic it is (or whether the artist was going for that anyway). 

The question I have is about the folded section in front above the belt;
what is this???  The only thing I've been able to come up with is from The
Book of Kimono;  when it shows the section on putting a kimono on, they fold
up the "excess material" in front and fold it below the obi in a way that
looks similar to this pouchy thing.

Any help would be greatly appreciated......

   --Maureen 




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 09:53:24 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: watching films with costumers
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 01:00 AM 10/27/1999 EDT, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Gwnvr@aol.com
>
>I was just disappointed when they trotted out that tired plot device..."kill 
>off the girlfriend/wife so the hero can go crazy and get the action going"  
>Please, are men not motivated by anything else?  
>
Yes, money, power, and threatened masculinity.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 10:10:57 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Does anyone on this list have ANY info on women's suits or jackets worn
over dresses in 1926?

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 11:23:44 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 12:30:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1926 Women's Suits
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/27/1999 11:28:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
kdyer@home.com writes:

<< Does anyone on this list have ANY info on women's suits or jackets worn
 over dresses in 1926?
  >>

You sound desperate!
What do you need? The answer is yes if the question is did they wear suits or 
dresses with matching [or not] jackets. The jackets are like the gowns....cut 
straight & softly draped; not much if any stiffening or padding. They will 
often form the hipline emphasis by ending there, with a band or belt of some 
kind. If they are longer than hip level, say to mid thigh, they can have 
belts at the hip level often passing though slits in the jacket. Under this 
can be found skirt & blouses and even vests but all will be cut straight with 
no heavy tailoring. Blouses usually are untucked and stop at that ever 
present hip level. Everything is soft soft soft.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 11:23:46 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 12:36:15 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1926 Women's Suits
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

Oh...I forgot! One of my favorite forms of jacket dressing in the 20s [and 
later] is favored by Coco Chanel. She'll make the dress out of a beautiful, 
light fabric usually with some pattern printed on or woven into it. The 
jacket will take the form of a "floater coat"....it just hangs from the 
shoulders without closings. It will be a solid matching color but will be 
lined with the same fabric the dress is made of. This you of course see as 
the woman walks & moves and the light airy open coat moves.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 11:30:01 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.8b9f6abe.25478c28@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 16:22:56 +0200
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

Gail wrote:
> I am interested to hear so many people's opinions of "Braveheart," because
it
> was such a popular film. Here is my experience with it: My husband and I
saw
> it in the theater and really liked it. In fact, we raved about it. Then we
> checked out the real history (we have a strange habit of doing that . . .)
> and found, as usual with a historical film, that it was much more
> interesting.

That's just my handicap: I know too much of medieval history and customs to
be able to take the nonsense Hollywood shows. They don't have the knowledge
(I mean writers, art directors, costumers, setdesigners and finally
directors) to make a good product which is a good story as well as a
spectacular film. The real histories are often much more interesting than
what Hollywood makes of them, because movies, according to the powers that
be, have to underwrite a kind of cliche vision of historiy and storytelling.

The prince, though gay, was actually an accomplished tournament
> fighter who was quite admired, though everyone hated him because he played
> favorites.

Edward was admired and loved by his servants and the common people, because
he was one of the few English kings who took care of them as people not as
cattle, but, except for his mother, stepmother, sisters and half-brothers,
most of the nobility loathed this behaviour and the favouritism that was his
weakness. Het was also a very athletic, strong and handsome man with the
strawberry blond hair of the real Plantagenets and he was by the time he
became king a seasoned campaigner and armyleader.

> William Wallace introduced a lot of interesting group fighting
> techniques and strategies.

In fact he used the already ancient way of fighting of the Scots (guerilla
warfare) in an intelligent way. He also used the already existing schiltron,
a pikeman's square, to very great effect in the few set battles he fought.
Pointed wooden staves, pah! They used 10 foot spears/pikes in formations
that fought with great discipline.Don't make me laugh: kilts and blue
faces!!!

> The princess was only 11 years old at the time.

Edward II and Isabelle married in 1308 in France (not England) when she was
16 and he 23 and already king but not crowned, 3 years after Wallace was
executed and 1 year after Edward I died. Isabella might have come over for
the wedding of her aunt Margaret to Edward I in 1299, but it is not certain
and I doubt it. She therefore most probably had not been to England before
her marriage and the whole story of her meeting Wallace and even making a
probable bastard is utter nonsense.

> Anyway, despite thinking the real
> thing would have made a better story,

Hear, hear!

> Anyway, there were some parts I liked (the fact that the
> characters spoke numerous languages, for instance, which is rarely
addressed
> in medieval films;

The royal family and most of the nobility spoke French and did not bother to
speak English. Edward II is supposed to have talked English with his
subjects, another point in his favour (or disfavour). His son Edward III was
fluent in English as well as French and Latin and a smatter of Dutch and
German. Wallace was a Lowlands gentleman of knight-status (he lived in a
manor house near Glasgow, not a hovel somewhere in the Highlands) and must
have spoken French as well as Scottish-English. He was definitely no
Highlander and it's doubtful that he spoke more than a few words of Gaelic.
As far as I know everybody spoke English in the movie although Mel's tried
to speak with a Scottish accent; it was laughable.

> and the whole idea that being married might be important
> to anyone is sadly left out of most movies)

I'm not sure what you mean by this: Edward's or Wallace's wedding?

> but on the whole we both agree that it stunk.

I could not agree more...

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 11:36:12 1999
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-Poster: deborah rand <martyr@gti.net>

Kat-

What kind of info exactly?  Do you want to draft a pattern?
~Deb Rand

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 12:40:26 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

While the links aren't all correct if you go to the home page for
www.narnia-productions.com and then go to Shakespearean Wedding you will find
that the accusations are true.  Drea, I hope you plan on taking action on
this!  Cynthia

> ----- Forwarded message from Robert J Welenc -----
>
> Forwarded with permission.
> Lady Karen Larsdatter, Deputy KMoAS for Atlantia writes:
>
> >So I says to myself ... "SELF!!  There's some free time between now
> and
> >5:00; let's go looking for links for the MoAS site."
> >
> >So I look for new pages under some keywords that I like to use.
> >
> >And I find a website.  Really interesting company in Canada, telling
> me
> >that they're awfully knowledgeable at event productions.
> >http://www.narnia-productions.com
> >
> >And I use the little search window at the top to find information
> about
> >their packages for "A Shakespearean Wedding."  Because, y'know,
> >sometimes information for themed weddings can be humorous.
> >
> >And they've even got some interesting articles at the bottom of the
> >page.  Like, for example, the "Information and Patterns - Coifs"
> >(http://www.narnia-productions.com/1500's2.html).
> >
> >So I click on that.  And I says to myself, "SELF!!  This looks
> mighty
> >familiar."  And I go to my friend Drea's page -- you know Drea, she
> >does that wonderful Elizabethan Costuming page -- and lo and behold,
> it
> >looks an awful lot like the coif pages I'd sent her some pictures
> for a
> >coupla' years ago
> >(http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/headwear/coif.html and
> >http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/headwear/coifmake.html).
> >
> >Well, that's mighty interesting.
> >
> >Narnia Productions sells theatrical make-up and books and that sort
> of
> >thing.  So, naturally, I'm awfully interested to read their article
> on
> >"Make Up Techniques of the 16th Century," especially since I'm
> slowly
> >working on a page of links on period cosmetics for the MoAS site
> >(http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/topics/cosm.htm), and the only other
> page
> >I know of that has period cosmetics for that part of history is
> another
> >one of Drea's pages -- the "Elizabethan Make-Up 101"
> >(http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/makeup.html).
> >
> >So I look at Narnia Productions' site at
> >http://www.narnia-productions.com/1500'smu.html and darn if it ain't
> >familiar ... except for the photograph being on the other side of
> the
> >page.  Plus, an additional page, which shows you which of their
> >products you should buy for that Elizabethan look that's all the
> rage.
> >
> >Zowie, I think I'm beginning to notice a trend.
> >
> >Their page on blackwork
> >(http://www.narnia-productions.com/blackwork.html) seems awfully
> >similar to content at the Blackwork Embroidery Archives
> >(http://www.pacificnet.net/~pmarmor/bwarch.html).  And their page on
> >stays (http://www.narnia-productions.com/1500's1.html) sure doesn't
> >credit Caroline Vincent, but it looks an awful lot like one of her
> >pages (http://www.vincents.demon.co.uk/stays/stays.htm).
> >
> >I've emailed Drea and PK Marmor and Catherine Vincent but haven't
> heard
> >back from 'em yet ... but this wouldn't be the first time I've seen
> >this sort of thing happen *without* the original author's
> permission.
> >
> >I just get so angry when it does ...
>
> [Alanna's note:  this is more than angry-making -- this is copyright
> theft, and legally actionable.]
>
> >The main page for the Elizabethan section says, "You may be planning
> to
> >recreate the 16th Century with a beautiful Renaissance Wedding or
> >Event. You might be capitalizing on the popularity of the
> Elizabethan
> >Era by staging a play set in the 1500's. In any case, we have
> gathered
> >the information and resources you'll need to create authenticity.
> >We are featuring the tips and techniques, including patterns and
> >step-by-step makeup procedure, in an attempt to create a
> comprehensive
> >overview of the period. You will find the supplies you require,
> >including the wigs and makeup and some great links to other sites.
> So
> >read on- have a Wonderful Production, a Unique Wedding or
> Renaissance
> >Event and please let us know if you need any further assistance.
> We're
> >full of good ideas!"
> >
> >I sure am tempted to ask them about the coif that it says right
> there
> >on the webpage that they've made ... or their lovely (but awfully
> >familiar) blackwork designs ... ;)
> >
> >Karen
>
> One also wonders if they have the permission of the heirs of C. S.
> Lewis to use the name 'Narnia'...
>
> Alanna Volchevo Lesa
> Partan Herald
>
> ----- End of forwarded message from Robert J Welenc -----
>
> --
>       Conflict checker to knaves, knights, kings, and all between.

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 14:42:33 1999
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-Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>

At 11.20 +0100 99-10-25, teddy1 wrote:
<snip>
>> - -Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>
>>
>> >Am I a Lucky Bunny or what?
>>
>>  No, you are a very naughty, indeed evil, bunny, saying things
>> like that straight out without preparing us first. The more
>> sensitive of us might get a heart attack from the shock (or
>> possibly from the envy :-)
>
>Oh, Ninni, does this mean you aren't going to come @round the
>silk mill and museum with me when I come to Stockholm in
>November...?  <presses back of hand to brow in  overly-
>melodramatic manner>....<g>
>
>Teddy
>(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
>air and darkness, apparently!)

	<puzzled frown> Of course I will! I thought I were paying you a
compliment. After all you *are* an evil bunny, aren't you? <goes away
muttering "You can't even trust people's signatures anymore, what is the
world coming to">

/Ninni



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From: Gary Stephens <info@5rivers.org>
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <info@5rivers.org>

	Would Margo Anderson please contact me privately off-list?

many thanks
Lorina Stephens

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage & fine
hand-sewn, embroidered garments http://www.5rivers.org e-mail:
info@5rivers.org




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From: Elisabeth Amalie von Haimhausen <costume@gmx.li>
Subject: Re: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
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-Poster: Elisabeth Amalie von Haimhausen <costume@gmx.li>

At 04:36 23.10.99 , you wrote:

>Yeah.. I know it's not a good example :] I have all sorts of photocopies
>here at home, but with no scanner, I can't get them up onto my site.. I've
>found another that's *slightly* better.
>http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE34AX.HTML

*that* lady is french so it's not a good example either...

>You see how the bust is being supported somewhat in a Victorian shape? (I
>know that could be part of the re-drawing of the figures in the book :] But

it's true that they weren't flat-fronted - they didn't use boing in
the=20 bodice front, so it bulged somewhat.  the question is: was the
bodice as heavily stiffened as you made yours? if= =20 yes, it would
still flatten the breast unless there were shaping seams. or= =20
maybe it was only stiffened over the tummy? if it was not or only
lightly=20 stiffened, you'd get horizontal creases which are not in
evidence in any=20 painting i know. could be the artists left them out
because they didn't=20 look good...


salut,
amalie


Yours, etc, Elisabeth Amalie Gr=E4fin von Haimhausen
also known outside the 18th century  as
His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)
http://www.marquise.de                  costume@gmx.li=20



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 15:07:41 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:06:11 -0700
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I'm coming into the middle of this, Iknow, but it would be beter if you
weren't working out of Braun & Schneider.  There are so many other, not to
mention better, sources for just about anything.

Cheers!

MaggiRos

A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net

Leap, and the net will appear.
	--Orson Wells

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Elisabeth Amalie von Haimhausen [SMTP:costume@gmx.li]
> Sent:	Wednesday, October 27, 1999 9:09 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	Re: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
> 
> 
> -Poster: Elisabeth Amalie von Haimhausen <costume@gmx.li>
> 
> At 04:36 23.10.99 , you wrote:
> 
> >Yeah.. I know it's not a good example :] I have all sorts of photocopies
> >here at home, but with no scanner, I can't get them up onto my site..
> I've
> >found another that's *slightly* better.
> >http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE34AX.HTML
> 
> *that* lady is french so it's not a good example either...
> 
> >You see how the bust is being supported somewhat in a Victorian shape? (I
> >know that could be part of the re-drawing of the figures in the book :]
> But
> 
> it's true that they weren't flat-fronted - they didn't use boing in
> the=20 bodice front, so it bulged somewhat.  the question is: was the
> bodice as heavily stiffened as you made yours? if= =20 yes, it would
> still flatten the breast unless there were shaping seams. or= =20
> maybe it was only stiffened over the tummy? if it was not or only
> lightly=20 stiffened, you'd get horizontal creases which are not in
> evidence in any=20 painting i know. could be the artists left them out
> because they didn't=20 look good...
> 
> 
> salut,
> amalie
> 
> 
> Yours, etc, Elisabeth Amalie Gr=E4fin von Haimhausen
> also known outside the 18th century  as
> His Excellency, etc, the Minister of Silly Walks (Mrs)
> http://www.marquise.de                  costume@gmx.li=20
> 
> 
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 15:22:43 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft and the businesses who i
	ndulge in it]
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:27:51 -0700
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Hunh, the background art for the Shakespearean wedding page is directly off
the front page of my (non-costume related) website.  And also the work of
Paula Kate Marmor (pkm@dm.net).  This IS interesting.  I suppose I should be
flattered.  We do sometimes get requests for our graphics, so perhaps they
asked and I've forgotten.  I should start keeping better track of these
things.

This wouldn't be so bad except that they've apparently copied the pages as
their own, instead of, with permission, linking to Drea's and Katie's and
Catherine's sites --oh yeah, and the REC's page on accents too!--and so on.
(That's the Renaissance Pleasure Faire, for those outside the REC's sphere
of influence.)  So they've made sure to put the rest of their tainted links
at the bottom of most of them.

They did leave the blackwork page with its copyright statement and links
back to the rest of pkm's embroidery stuff.  Now that's irony.


MaggiRos



A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net

Leap, and the net will appear.
	--Orson Wells

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Merouda the True of Beaumaris [SMTP:keltia@serv.net]
> Sent:	Wednesday, October 27, 1999 6:56 PM
> To:	Historical Costume
> Subject:	H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft and the businesses who
> indulge in it]
> 
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> While the links aren't all correct if you go to the home page for
> www.narnia-productions.com and then go to Shakespearean Wedding you will
> find
> that the accusations are true.  Drea, I hope you plan on taking action on
> this!  Cynthia
> 
> > ----- Forwarded message from Robert J Welenc -----
> >
> > Forwarded with permission.
> > Lady Karen Larsdatter, Deputy KMoAS for Atlantia writes:
> >
> > >So I says to myself ... "SELF!!  There's some free time between now
> > and
> > >5:00; let's go looking for links for the MoAS site."
> > >
> > >So I look for new pages under some keywords that I like to use.
> > >
> > >And I find a website.  Really interesting company in Canada, telling
> > me
> > >that they're awfully knowledgeable at event productions.
> > >http://www.narnia-productions.com
> > >
> > >And I use the little search window at the top to find information
> > about
> > >their packages for "A Shakespearean Wedding."  Because, y'know,
> > >sometimes information for themed weddings can be humorous.
> > >
> > >And they've even got some interesting articles at the bottom of the
> > >page.  Like, for example, the "Information and Patterns - Coifs"
> > >(http://www.narnia-productions.com/1500's2.html).
> > >
> > >So I click on that.  And I says to myself, "SELF!!  This looks
> > mighty
> > >familiar."  And I go to my friend Drea's page -- you know Drea, she
> > >does that wonderful Elizabethan Costuming page -- and lo and behold,
> > it
> > >looks an awful lot like the coif pages I'd sent her some pictures
> > for a
> > >coupla' years ago
> > >(http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/headwear/coif.html and
> > >http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/headwear/coifmake.html).
> > >
> > >Well, that's mighty interesting.
> 
	<snip>
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  who indulge in it]
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>This wouldn't be so bad except that they've apparently copied the pages as
>their own, instead of, with permission, linking to Drea's and Katie's and
>Catherine's sites --oh yeah, and the REC's page on accents too!--and so on.
>(That's the Renaissance Pleasure Faire, for those outside the REC's sphere

Marc Carlson's shoe site is also plagarized on their website.   Gee, I'm
starting to feel a bit left out.

Margo Anderson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 16:04:43 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Marc Carlson's shoe site is also plagarized on their website.   Gee, I'm
> starting to feel a bit left out.

Aw, honey, it just because they're an old website.  They stole before you were
up and running.  *GGGGGGG*  Give 'em enough time and you too can have a
copyright nightmare.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 16:18:57 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it]
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 17:31:11 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

One of the people in the many levels of quoting and forwarding of the 
original post mentioned:

> [Alanna's note:  this is more than angry-making -- this is copyright
> theft, and legally actionable.]

So my question is... What would be the first step?  (Not that _I_ will be 
doing anything, as it was not _my_ work that was stolen, but I am very 
curious.)

Also, are those people whose work has been stolen taking action?

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 16:44:49 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

deborah rand wrote:
> 
> What kind of info exactly?  Do you want to draft a pattern?

Actually, I'd prefer to avoid having to draft a pattern... I've already
gotten a bunch of dresses from the Goodwill Warehouse and I'll be going
back this weekend.  If I can find suitable items... or ones that can be
easily altered, I'll go with that first... but if I can't find anything
I'll need to make something for them.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 16:53:17 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Okay... now I have a better idea of what I'm looking for (all hail the
great Goodwill! <grin>).  Now to match the dresses I already have with
parts and then figure out what I need while making costumes for
Halloween for my son & cousin!

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 17:03:55 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 18:16:57 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft and the businesses who
	indulge in it]
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

I missed the original post...could someone please forward it to me.  I want 
to have a clue...I really do about what everyone is talking about  :-)

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 17:09:23 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Anyone watching Vanity Fair?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Yes, that was Nathanial Parker in both roles. A Keanu Reeves lookalike who 
can act. He was also in "Othello" (with Fishburn & Branagh).

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 17:12:17 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: fishnets
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I used to wear a pair of colored tights with a pair of contrasting fishnets 
over them. Went well with the thigh-high boots and miniskirts.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 17:35:02 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 15:39:34 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: watching films with costumers
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-id: <38171CAF.7E94241E@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Margo wrote:

>> I was just disappointed when they trotted out that tired plot device..."
>> kill off the girlfriend/wife so the hero can go crazy and get the action
>> going" Please, are men not motivated by anything else?  
>
> Yes, money, power, and threatened masculinity.

Come on! You forgot the desire to have a good, cold beer!!

(Can we stop male bashing now?)

In jest,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 18:22:10 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 16:34:55 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lee Carter <mouse@well.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft and the businesses
  who indulge in it]
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-Poster: Lee Carter <mouse@well.com>

At 10:55 AM 10/27/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>While the links aren't all correct if you go to the home page for
>www.narnia-productions.com and then go to Shakespearean Wedding you will find
>that the accusations are true.  Drea, I hope you plan on taking action on
>this!  Cynthia
>
I must concur with this statement.  I too look at this site.  Talk of
copyright infringement.  I hope that those authors and designers contact
this site or the site provider to complain about giving credit where credit
is due.

Gwenyth of Mousehold Heath
who also works for Dept. of Justice 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 18:58:57 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 20:11:39 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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Subject: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

...and tell us if you think it would be useful for us to post "shame on
you for stealing copyright material" notes (polite ones) to them.

Merouda the True of Beaumaris wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> While the links aren't all correct if you go to the home page for
> www.narnia-productions.com and then go to Shakespearean Wedding you will find
> that the accusations are true.  Drea, I hope you plan on taking action on
> this!  Cynthia
--
Never attribute to Devil-worshipping conspiracies what opportunism,
emotional instability, and religious bigotry are sufficient to explain. 
-- Shawn Carlson, Ph.D
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 20:23:09 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 21:38:05 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Gwenyth wrote:
>I must concur with this statement.  I too look at this site.  Talk of
>copyright infringement.  I hope that those authors and designers contact
>this site or the site provider to complain about giving credit where credit
>is due.

and Cynthia wrote:
>...and tell us if you think it would be useful for us to post "shame on
>you for stealing copyright material" notes (polite ones) to them.


While I agree some action like this should be taken at a minimum, I have 
to admit that if it were my work that they'd stolen, I'd be leaning 
towards a much harsher reaction.

I think perhaps people have missed the point that they're a business, and 
they've been using the stolen material to promote their sales.  
Admittedly, I'm no lawyer, but it seems to me that because of this 
they've opened themselves right up to a copyright infringement suit which 
could ask for money damages.

I can see if others don't feel so strongly as me. (Which is sorta why I 
asked what others thought was the first step to take.)  I just think that 
since they've been making money off of other peoples work, they ought to 
get more than just a slap on the wrist.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 20:34:59 1999
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From: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <38173C92.DE51A91@serv.net> <38179469.EA1D145A@thibault.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 20:42:37 -0500
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-Poster: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>

Ok Ladies and gents here is what I have been able to "dig" up on this site.
So email your complaints while you can. :)

Myrias Computer Technologies Inc. (NET-MYRIAS)
   8522 Davies Road Edmonton, Alberta
   Calgary, AB T5N 4Y5
   CA
http://cal.sfl.net/

   Netname: MYRIAS
   Netnumber: 139.142.0.0
   Maintainer: MYRA

   Coordinator:
      Shaw Fiberlink Ltd, Ip Administrator  (IAS-ARIN)  ipadmin@CAL.SFL.NET
      (403) 750-4677 (FAX) (403) 750-6999

   Domain System inverse mapping provided by:

   NS.CG.SFL.NET  139.142.2.2
   NS.MT.SFL.NET  209.135.99.2

   Record last updated on 30-Dec-1998.
   Database last updated on 27-Oct-1999 15:54:52 EDT.

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cynthia Virtue" <cvirtue@thibault.org>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 7:11 PM
Subject: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it


>
> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
> ...and tell us if you think it would be useful for us to post "shame on
> you for stealing copyright material" notes (polite ones) to them.
>
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris wrote:
> >
> > -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> >
> > While the links aren't all correct if you go to the home page for
> > www.narnia-productions.com and then go to Shakespearean Wedding you will find
> > that the accusations are true.  Drea, I hope you plan on taking action on
> > this!  Cynthia
> --
> Never attribute to Devil-worshipping conspiracies what opportunism,
> emotional instability, and religious bigotry are sufficient to explain.
> -- Shawn Carlson, Ph.D
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 20:51:27 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 22:05:35 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: Theft of Drea Leed's copyrighted work
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

Regarding the theft of some of Drea's work for the Narnia website..... if a 
strongly worded demand to remove the stolen material from her site doesn't 
work, then I'd think the next step is going to Narnia's webhost.  (I frankly 
wouldn't bother with a polite request to Joan Herron/Narnia at this point.... 
it's obvious that the Narnia website creator blatantly stole this 
information....being that some of the other links on the "Shakespeare and 
Love" page go directly to another website --- like the first one for 
Elizabethan footwear patterns going directly to the 
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/carlson/SLIST5.HTM  website.  I don't believe any 
author would have a problem with a link....but to copy the information and 
claim authorship is plain theft.  

And yes, in checking her source code, she DOES claim authorship.  This from 
the makeup page:  "META NAME="author" CONTENT="Joan Herron- Narnia 
Productions">

If she won't take it down, I'd suggest contacting her webspace provider.  
>From the Whois records she gets her webspace from Islandnet.com (all 
information from the record pasted below).  Webspace providers don't like 
having clients who get embroiled in copyright infringement actions... they 
can be involved, albeit unwillingly, and I know of a couple cases here where 
putting pressure on an upstream webspace provider got the violater to pull 
down a site.

++++++++++++++++
Registrant:
Narnia Productions (NARNIA-PRODUCTIONS-DOM)
   1170 Gerda Rd.
   Victoria, B.C. V8Z 2Z4
   CA

   Domain Name: NARNIA-PRODUCTIONS.COM

   Administrative Contact:
      Herron, Joan  (JH16597)  dangelo@ISLANDNET.COM
      250-744-2161
   Technical Contact, Zone Contact:
      Morley, Mark  (MM5709)  domains@ISLANDNET.COM
      1-250-383-0096 (FAX) 1-250-383-6698
   Billing Contact:
      Herron, Joan  (JH16597)  dangelo@ISLANDNET.COM
      250-744-2161

   Record last updated on 21-Oct-1998.
   Record created on 15-Oct-1998.
   Database last updated on 26-Oct-1999 17:54:51 EDT.

   Domain servers in listed order:

   NS1.ISLANDNET.COM        199.175.106.253
   NS2.ISLANDNET.COM        199.175.107.253
++++++++++++++++++++++++++

What does all this have to do with h-costume?  Anyone who puts copyrighted 
information on the 'net has a right to keep that information under their name 
and control.  And I know a lot of the folks who post to this list have 
costume related sites.....  if we all don't protest this blatant 
theft......whose site is the next victim?

~Morghana

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it
References: <199910280138.VAA02590@bajor.ici.net>
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-Poster: Stephen Fairman <fairmans@teleport.com>



Irene leNoir wrote:

> -Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
>
> Gwenyth wrote:
> >I must concur with this statement.  I too look at this site.  Talk of
> >copyright infringement.  I hope that those authors and designers contact
> >this site or the site provider to complain about giving credit where credit
> >is due.
>
> and Cynthia wrote:
> >...and tell us if you think it would be useful for us to post "shame on
> >you for stealing copyright material" notes (polite ones) to them.
>
> While I agree some action like this should be taken at a minimum, I have
> to admit that if it were my work that they'd stolen, I'd be leaning
> towards a much harsher reaction.
>
> I think perhaps people have missed the point that they're a business, and
> they've been using the stolen material to promote their sales.
> Admittedly, I'm no lawyer, but it seems to me that because of this
> they've opened themselves right up to a copyright infringement suit which
> could ask for money damages.
>
> I can see if others don't feel so strongly as me. (Which is sorta why I
> asked what others thought was the first step to take.)  I just think that
> since they've been making money off of other peoples work, they ought to
> get more than just a slap on the wrist.
>
> Jessica Clark
> SCA: Irène leNoir
> irene@ici.net
> http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica
>
>

I agree with the desire to punish, or receive some gain.  Lifting peoples work
and using it in your business site is despicable.  Any usually, people will
grant the right very easily.

Yours
Esteban McLachan
Shadow's Treasure Chest
http://www.cyberis.net/~fairman1

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 21:09:26 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:24:11 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>



Fran?  Rob Shep?  What say you on this subject?
As people in the book business, I know I have seen posts from one or both of 
you on copyright infringement & the law.  Your 2c would be interesting in 
this case.

Susannah




> > and Cynthia wrote:
> > >...and tell us if you think it would be useful for us to post "shame on
> > >you for stealing copyright material" notes (polite ones) to them.
> >
> > While I agree some action like this should be taken at a minimum, I have
> > to admit that if it were my work that they'd stolen, I'd be leaning
> > towards a much harsher reaction.
> >
> > I think perhaps people have missed the point that they're a business, 
>and
> > they've been using the stolen material to promote their sales.
> > Admittedly, I'm no lawyer, but it seems to me that because of this
> > they've opened themselves right up to a copyright infringement suit 
>which
> > could ask for money damages.
> >

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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Praire Dresses
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:34:29 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

After checking out the aforementioned version of a "Prairie Wrapper" 
available in a commercial pattern, I had the uncomfortable decision of 
bringing out my old and very much patched flame undies and letting fly with 
MHO, or keeping my mouth shut.  I choose the latter in this case.

The bonnet, btw, is a button bonnet, fashioned after the originals that came 
apart in order to be easier to iron.  Not a very good one, better ones are 
available from Sunbonnet Treasures, carried by Amazon Drygoods.  They offer 
octagon, round, and square shaped button bonnets.

Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris


>From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Praire Dresses
>Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 04:12:53 PDT
>
>
>-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>
>After reading Margo's comments about her experience with the Simplicity
>pattern, I'll admit I am now intrigued and must make a stop at the fabric
>store this afternoon on my way from work to check it out.  Will let you 
>know
>if I change my opinion!!  It sounds from the description very much like the
>old McCalls' pattern I was talking about, and if so, I'd recommend it.  As 
>I
>said, will let you know.
>
>And now, I've got to see this "ugly" bonnet you guys are talking about...
>
>Susannah
>
>"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
>  --William Morris
>
>> >-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>> >
>> >A new question for all of you:  is there a pattern from the big three
>> >(simplicity, McCall's, Butterick, etc.) for a praire dress that has any
>> >basis in reality?  For example, Simplicity 8755 has little sleeve 
>>ruffles
>> >and a hat that I can't figure out.
>>
>>the Simplicity pattern is really quite good for the 1880's, including the
>>sleeve ruffles.  I made it (after altering it up to a size 26) with the
>>following changes:  I ditched the zipper up the back and put buttons and
>>holes in front, on the yoke.  I left the front seam open to waist level,
>>and
>>wore it with a waist tied apron that holds it closed.  I also lengthened
>>the
>>dress to 2" off the ground.  This style is really a wrapper, which in
>>period
>>would probably have had a fitted inner bodice.  I didn't make one, and
>>don't
>>miss it.
>>
>>I almost never use commercial patterns, but this one was almost identical
>>to
>>the style I was planning to draft after much research.  It went together 
>>in
>>an afternoon, and is so comfortable I'm going to make it up in cotton
>>flannel for home wear this winter.
>>
>>The bonnet is certainly strange though.  I don't even care if it's period,
>>I'm just not putting something that ugly on my head.
>>
>>Margo
>>

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:36:12 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft and the businesses
  whoindulge in it]
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 06:16 PM 10/27/1999, Charles <Fopdejour1@aol.com> wrote: I missed the
original post...could someone please forward it to me.  I want to have a
clue...I really do about what everyone is talking about  :-)  Chas
             Replied privately...Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 21:31:53 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Regency Trims
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:46:45 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Just back from an event this past weekend, saw an old friend who has a 
delightful assortment of ribbons, tapes and trims, some of which may be 
exactly what you are looking for.  He had several colors of a particularly 
interesting type of ribbon-flower chain-like trim --pink and blue come to 
mind.  I wish I had looked at it more closely, it may be exactly what you 
need.

Contact Mary and Ken at:

Wooded Hamlet Designs
4044 Coseytown Road
Greencastle, PA  17225
(717) 597-1782

In general, they are an excellent source for such obscure and useful items 
as waxed linen cord, brass buckles, linen & hemp twine, silk ribbon, service 
& military laces, woolen braid, striped gartering, antique bone 2 & 4 hole 
buttons, hand wrought brass buttons, button molds, and other delightful 
things.
No affiliation, just an affectionate and loyal customer.

Susannah

>From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: H-COST: Regency Trims
>Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 12:10:34 -0400
>
>Cheers everyone!
>
>I'm looking for sources for trim that would be appropriate on an 1810-ish 
>evening gown.  Im thinking of using a *lot* of small rosettes, I'm not up 
>to making them myself and the type you generally find in the notions 
>departments just seem a bit too "commercial-looking".
>
>Thanks for any and all info!
>~*~Kerrie~*~
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 21:36:36 1999
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From: "m b" <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:51:07 PDT
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-Poster: "m b" <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>

If one is going to point out the differences between historical fact, and 
fiction, why not ALSO point out the things in the film that really DID 
happen!  How else can you show more than a biased viewpoint?

Wallace might not have been a highlander, but he did spend a great deal of 
time there.  He was a patriot for his country who stood up for what he 
believed, and died for it as well.  He was drawn and quartered, and his 
'parts' were indeed sent to the "four corners" of Scotland as a warning to 
other Scots.  Indeed, not much more is known for SURE about him.  There are 
no pictures of the man, mostly just word of mouth passed from one generation 
to another.  Only one possession of William Wallace's remains...his 
sword....housed in the Wallace Monument located in Stirling...across the 
bridge from Stirling castle....both sites of two of his major battles.

just a thought.....


>From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
>Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 16:22:56 +0200
>
>
>-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
>Hi,
>
>Gail wrote:
> > I am interested to hear so many people's opinions of "Braveheart," 
>because
>it
> > was such a popular film. Here is my experience with it: My husband and I
>saw
> > it in the theater and really liked it. In fact, we raved about it. Then 
>we
> > checked out the real history (we have a strange habit of doing that . . 
>.)
> > and found, as usual with a historical film, that it was much more
> > interesting.
>
>That's just my handicap: I know too much of medieval history and customs to
>be able to take the nonsense Hollywood shows. They don't have the knowledge
>(I mean writers, art directors, costumers, setdesigners and finally
>directors) to make a good product which is a good story as well as a
>spectacular film. The real histories are often much more interesting than
>what Hollywood makes of them, because movies, according to the powers that
>be, have to underwrite a kind of cliche vision of historiy and 
>storytelling.
>
>The prince, though gay, was actually an accomplished tournament
> > fighter who was quite admired, though everyone hated him because he 
>played
> > favorites.
>
>Edward was admired and loved by his servants and the common people, because
>he was one of the few English kings who took care of them as people not as
>cattle, but, except for his mother, stepmother, sisters and half-brothers,
>most of the nobility loathed this behaviour and the favouritism that was 
>his
>weakness. Het was also a very athletic, strong and handsome man with the
>strawberry blond hair of the real Plantagenets and he was by the time he
>became king a seasoned campaigner and armyleader.
>
> > William Wallace introduced a lot of interesting group fighting
> > techniques and strategies.
>
>In fact he used the already ancient way of fighting of the Scots (guerilla
>warfare) in an intelligent way. He also used the already existing 
>schiltron,
>a pikeman's square, to very great effect in the few set battles he fought.
>Pointed wooden staves, pah! They used 10 foot spears/pikes in formations
>that fought with great discipline.Don't make me laugh: kilts and blue
>faces!!!
>
> > The princess was only 11 years old at the time.
>
>Edward II and Isabelle married in 1308 in France (not England) when she was
>16 and he 23 and already king but not crowned, 3 years after Wallace was
>executed and 1 year after Edward I died. Isabella might have come over for
>the wedding of her aunt Margaret to Edward I in 1299, but it is not certain
>and I doubt it. She therefore most probably had not been to England before
>her marriage and the whole story of her meeting Wallace and even making a
>probable bastard is utter nonsense.
>
> > Anyway, despite thinking the real
> > thing would have made a better story,
>
>Hear, hear!
>
> > Anyway, there were some parts I liked (the fact that the
> > characters spoke numerous languages, for instance, which is rarely
>addressed
> > in medieval films;
>
>The royal family and most of the nobility spoke French and did not bother 
>to
>speak English. Edward II is supposed to have talked English with his
>subjects, another point in his favour (or disfavour). His son Edward III 
>was
>fluent in English as well as French and Latin and a smatter of Dutch and
>German. Wallace was a Lowlands gentleman of knight-status (he lived in a
>manor house near Glasgow, not a hovel somewhere in the Highlands) and must
>have spoken French as well as Scottish-English. He was definitely no
>Highlander and it's doubtful that he spoke more than a few words of Gaelic.
>As far as I know everybody spoke English in the movie although Mel's tried
>to speak with a Scottish accent; it was laughable.
>
> > and the whole idea that being married might be important
> > to anyone is sadly left out of most movies)
>
>I'm not sure what you mean by this: Edward's or Wallace's wedding?
>
> > but on the whole we both agree that it stunk.
>
>I could not agree more...
>
>Henk
>
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 21:54:02 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: henk on braveheart
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



What he said. I was trying not to take too much space in my post, although 
I'm glad Henk did. Perhaps I'm guilty of the same Hollywood "dumbing down"? I 
think Edward would have made a much more interesting character if he were 
portrayed the way he really was -- it would certainly have been different 
from your average gay movie character! FYI, Henk, they did speak a couple of 
different languages -- Isabelle spoke French (of course, they all would have 
spoken French, but  . . .), a priest spoke Latin, and Wallace said he spoke 
both. I think he spoke at least one of the two to the princess. My point was 
that the movie included any non-English at all, which is a step above most. 
As for marriage, I meant that I thought it was nice that Wallace wanted to 
marry his girlfriend and not just sleep with her, and that after she died it 
was important to him that she had been his wife. I'd just prefer to see a 
little more of that sentiment in movies.

My husband just mentioned that Wallace did have a girlfriend whom he might 
have secretly married, but no one knows whether they were married or not, and 
she was actually killed protecting him. And he also said that all the battle 
scenes in the movie were like football teams charging at each other, which he 
can't stand, and that the real Wallace was famous for wearing a bright green 
tunic (there -- some historic costume in this post!). Oh, and "the Barns of 
Ayr is almost certainly mythical." He says Wallace was so fascinating that he 
could write a better script himself. Of course, maybe there WAS a better 
script than the one we saw . . .

Gail
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 22:19:52 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 23:35:47 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>If one is going to point out the differences between historical fact, and
>fiction, why not ALSO point out the things in the film that really DID
>happen!  How else can you show more than a biased viewpoint?


Well, it's usually assumed that unless someone points out otherwise, what
happens in a historical movie is more or less true.

>Wallace might not have been a highlander, but he did spend a great deal of
>time there.  He was a patriot for his country who stood up for what he
>believed, and died for it as well.

True enough, but "patriot for his country" seems to imply a Revolutionary
War/modern ethos. Wallace was not standing up for all the poor oppressed
peasant Scotsmen being oppressed by the nasty Englishmen;  rather, he had
much closer affinities for those of his own class (gentry, small to
mid-sized landowners, the "knightly" class) in their aspirations, which
often brought them into conflict with English landowners and the English
crown. The movie alludes to some of the shifting political alliances to be
found amongst the Scots nobles, who were mostly of Norman extraction with
close ties and feuds with those "across the border." Wallace was part of
this complex political landscape.

He was drawn and quartered, and his
>'parts' were indeed sent to the "four corners" of Scotland as a warning to
>other Scots.

Simon de Montfort was also chopped into bits and set around England.  It's
interesting to compare him with Wallace.  I don't think I've ever seen
Montfort called a "patriot," although you can't cross a bridge in the
Midlands without running into him.

Actually, speaking of things not too badly done in the movie, the women's
costuming (the panne velour cotehardie notwithstanding) was better than I've
seen in a number of movies. It was recognizable as 14th century, and the
headdresses were nice. Too often the nifty headgear is ditched because
someone decides it's fussy or "oppressive."

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 22:20:48 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 22:25:54 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Anyone know where one can purchase (new or used) a copy of this book?

Thanks,
--Charlene

--
Plan to be spontaneous tomorrow.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 22:20:52 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
> 
> At 12:05 AM 10/08/1999 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
>                 Hi, Katharine--I have two Chinese books that have many
> pictures of Chinese men in hats, inc. the one you described.  If you
> already have the info. you sought, I will turn them back in.  If not, I
> will sit down with the books and really delve.   Please let me know. --
> Gra/inne  PS  And this, thanks to our Asian Languages Reference Librarian,
> Phyllis Wang, who is a Super Lady!!! :-)
>

I'd be interested in this information, too, please.
Or at least the names of the books?

Susan F.

-- 
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 22:31:38 1999
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 10/28/99 3:36:39 AM !!!First Boot!!!, charlene@flash.net 
writes:

<< Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
 
 Anyone know where one can purchase (new or used) a copy of this book?
 
 Thanks,
 --Charlene >>


Charlene,

    I purchased mine from a friend, who bought it for the needlework 
documentation.  She was laureled and passed it on to me.  I have not been 
able to find it available from any of the regular book stores, but I have 
seen it from time to time appear at Ren Faire book sellers.  I think however 
your best bet would be to search the out of print/ hard to find book finders 
on line.  Before Stasya sold her book to me, I had to inter library loan it 
and I made coppies of several sections that I had immediate use for.  I am 
sorry that I can't provide you with a deffinite place to go.  Perhaps you 
could contact the publishers:

WS Maney and Sons Ltd, Hudson Road, Leeds, Great Brittain
ISBN 0901286206

I purchased mine for second hand for $100, but I wouldn't part with it for 
$500....Good luck.

Charles

Would you mind if I posted your request to other lists?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 22:32:28 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 23:48:13 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Irene leNoir wrote:
> and Cynthia wrote:
> >...and tell us if you think it would be useful for us to post "shame on
> >you for stealing copyright material" notes (polite ones) to them.
> 
> While I agree some action like this should be taken at a minimum, I have
> to admit that if it were my work that they'd stolen, I'd be leaning
> towards a much harsher reaction.

Oh, definitely.  I meant as a backup to whatever the original authors
are doing.  Let the thieves know that the world knows, as well as the
official method being pursued.

cv
--

The way to draw a girl, I somehow absorbed [as a child], was to draw a
regular person, then add certain signifiers: long hair, a skirt, high
heels, huge curling eyelashes.  I didn't look like that, and there was
something instinctively offensive to me about  overgeneralizing women
merely as a way to differentiate them from "regular" -- i.e. male --
people.  The female is [drawn as] a male with accessories.        --
Alison Bechdel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 22:33:29 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

maureen+ brown wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com>
> 
> I have another question about Japanese clothing, this one *I think* is a
> kimono with a kind of hunting sleeve.  (An image of what I'm trying to make
> can be seen here:
> http://www.ualberta.ca/~aziesel/inuyasha/tank5.html;  the red costume.)
> 
> I haven't been able to find a source for this kimono; I've been able to find
> a garment with those sleeves for hunting (kariginu? suikan?), but always
> with a tunic type body rather than a kimono.  It's supposed to be from 15th
> century Japan, but it is a comic book so I have no way of knowing how
> authentic it is (or whether the artist was going for that anyway).
> 
You mean the "drawstring" sleeve? In books and a museum exhibit,
I've only seen this on a jacket-type garment "karaginu" (not counting
the court-style tunic) never a full-length kimono. I think the 
drawing is misleading (you almost never see bearclaw necklaces worn
with kimonos either) and the jacket is tucked in the hakama hence
the bunching (not fold, I think)

If you want to see real ones in action, watch the sumo wresting
on one of the sports channels. The referees wear the whole
outfit.

> The question I have is about the folded section in front above the belt;
> what is this???  The only thing I've been able to come up with is from The
> Book of Kimono;  when it shows the section on putting a kimono on, they fold
> up the "excess material" in front and fold it below the obi in a way that
> looks similar to this pouchy thing.

This is only for women and for modern kimonos. Not when they
were wearing "battle dress". (Is that character female?? or male
with long hair??)

I'm wondering what the purple string across the chest is for?

Well that's my take on it, anyway.

Susan F.
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 22:42:45 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 20:58:52 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Irene leNoir wrote:

> While I agree some action like this should be taken at a minimum, I have
> to admit that if it were my work that they'd stolen, I'd be leaning
> towards a much harsher reaction.
> 
> I think perhaps people have missed the point that they're a business, and
> they've been using the stolen material to promote their sales.
> Admittedly, I'm no lawyer, but it seems to me that because of this
> they've opened themselves right up to a copyright infringement suit which
> could ask for money damages.

I agree with you 100% Jessica.  If it were my website that had been
pirated, I know I'd be on the phone to my attorney.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 22:43:54 1999
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From: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3817C241.2D237272@flash.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 22:59:06 -0500
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-Poster: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>

Amazon Dry goods,
Green Duck,
Amazon.com in Europe,
And the publisher I think still has copies.
Also try http://www.dealpilot.com/
they are pretty good about finding the used copies of about any book, use
the ISBN to search, it is better than using the title or author name.

The prices you will find are anywhere from 128.00 to 200 a copy. Good luck.

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlene Charette" <charlene@flash.net>
To: "H-Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 10:25 PM
Subject: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd


>
> -Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
>
> Anyone know where one can purchase (new or used) a copy of this book?
>
> Thanks,
> --Charlene
>
> --
> Plan to be spontaneous tomorrow.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 22:45:03 1999
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From: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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-Poster: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>

If you go through Amazon.uk.co, you can get a new copy of this book by 
credit card. It will run you about $150 if I remember correctly,

Laurellen

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 23:03:48 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910280138.VAA02590@bajor.ici.net> <3817C9FC.7FD3A1E9@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Unfortnately, in the world of website design there is a lot of pirating.  I
have a friend who just quit her job with a small design firm over this very
issue.  The company was trying to make her steal from another website.  She
turned the issue to the state officials.  Now, the IRS is involved too and
other government agencies.

This company, Nakia, that stole from our friends' websites, also designs and
hosts websites for other businesses.  Maybe that needs to be looked into.
Funny, if you go to their link pages, you find links to editing and
publishing materials.

I have had people steal or directly link into my images before.  When I
write the "scary letter" to them, I generally find out that it is a kid or
young adult who didn't know better.  A business should know better than to
pirate, especially if they are designing for other businesses.

But unfortnatley, this is not the first time it has happened, and it won't
be the last.  I am happy that you all are standing up for the original
authors.  If more people did this, maybe it wouldn't occur as often.

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 23:20:27 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 23:32:48 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: RE: H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft and the businesses who
 indulge in it]
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>>
>...Marc Carlson's shoe site is also plagarized on their website.

Really.  Thank you.  I'll take a look at it.

(You know, I don't ask for a lot to keep me content)

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 23:21:48 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 00:36:34 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Re: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

Go to Green Duck Designs.  They carry it.  $180 (US).  My SO bought mine 
there three years ago as a Yule gift.  The book is worth every penny!

www.greenduck.com

(No affiliation, yadda-yadda)

~Morghana
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Oct 27 23:26:57 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 23:36:07 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
Message-ID: <19991027.234145.-433945.0.seamstrix@juno.com>
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Was Wallace sent to the four corners of Scotland, or was he sent about
England? He was killed at Smithfield in London (actually just outside the
city gates at the time) and I can't see them sending his bits back to the
hinterlands of Scotland. As a matter of fact there is a great, big bronze
marker on one of the walls of St. Barts Hospital commemorating his
execution. When I was there last February, there were several oldish
bouquets of flowers beneath it. I don't remember seeing any flowers left
on Edward's tomb.........

Karen
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 23:43:04 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: RE: H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft and the businesses who
 indulge in it]
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>>
> Marc Carlson's shoe site is also plagarized on their website...

Ok, I checked.  In all fairness, they just directly link to that part
of my web site, so I can't complain.

Thank you for the concern though.

Marc
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 22:21:14 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
In-Reply-To: <3815FCF0.E19160ED@pcs.k12.mi.us>
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 <3.0.5.32.19991022193605.00793c30@antir.com>
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 07:11 PM 26/10/99 +0000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
>
>What I've usually seen with this type of bodice is 3 pieces in the front
and 2
>in the back. The side pieces go from the side to 1/3 of the chest, the middle
>pieces from mid breast to mid breast. ( Sorry for the graphic pic but it's
the
>best explanation I have) This allows you to make adjustments without darts.
>Check the visual hist of coustume series and Milla Davenport for period pics.
>!9th cent redrawings are often not shaped right and are romanticised. Hope
>this helps
>
>Raella

ahh... I will do that! Thanks very much for the idea on cutting the pattern
pieces. I'll have to try it this weekend :]


oh, and would the 3 front pieces be like 'princess' seams? or would they
not curve quite that much...
Probably not, eh?

Kris
(who can't believe she just thought & typed an "eh"... yeesh..)

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 22:36:22 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 02:08 PM 27/10/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE34AX.HTML
>
>*that* lady is french so it's not a good example either...

*laughing* oops. I didn't notice that one :] But I must say that it does
have the bodice shape I was after.. what I see in these dratted photocopies
here before me :]

>maybe it was only stiffened over the tummy? if it was not or only
>lightly=20 stiffened, you'd get horizontal creases which are not in
>evidence in any=20 painting i know. could be the artists left them out
>because they didn't=20 look good...

I like to think that some of the people from that time period were as
perfectionistic as I, and would have figured out some way to get rid of
those awful wrinkles.. *grin*

I *do* think, however (from looking closer at some copies) that there could
be a curved centre-front seam. That would take care of everything. The only
problem is fitting it right..

hmm.. there are many points to think about now, when I go to fiz the
pattern :]

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 00:30:55 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 21:45:43 -0800
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

I always thought he looked more like a cross between Ciaran Hinds and Kevin Spacey. They couldn't have picked a better person to play a young Edward Rochester if you are basing what he looks like on the A&E version with Ciaran hinds and Samantha Morton.

I love historical fiction in both books and movies yet I've never seen Othello, seems everytime I go to the movie store it's checked out...along with Branaigh's Hamlet. I finally was able to catch that one on channel 3 a few months ago (tnt I think it is). I'm gonna have to go to another video store I think, LOL must be someone checked those two out and din't bring them back. That happens alot here, it's a college town, the library loses alot of books too.

Oh well.

*smile*

---
Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 01:25:53 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

When does Dupionni or Shantung (are they the same?) silk first appear? Is it
just a part of our modern fascination with slubby things? I understand that
during most periods people would have wanted fine, smooth-looking fabrics
as a sign of quality.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>


>I *do* think, however (from looking closer at some copies) that there could
>be a curved centre-front seam. That would take care of everything. The only
>problem is fitting it right..

It is a curved front center seam.  I've NEVER seen a 3 piece bodice front
in early 16th c German costuming and I've looked a LOTS of sources and in
person paintings.

Julie Adams


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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 09:45:08 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Off Topic
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> >Oh, Ninni, does this mean you aren't going to come @round the
> >silk mill and museum with me when I come to Stockholm in
> >November...?  <presses back of hand to brow in  overly-
> >melodramatic manner>....<g>
> >
> >Teddy
> >(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> >air and darkness, apparently!)
> 
>  <puzzled frown> Of course I will! I thought I were paying you a
> compliment. After all you *are* an evil bunny, aren't you? <goes away
> muttering "You can't even trust people's signatures anymore, what is
> the world coming to">
> 
> /Ninni

<Grin!>  Sorry Ninni, I just couldn't resist the urge to overdramatize




Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 03:55:34 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 04:29:17 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

but it would be better if you
>weren't working out of Braun & Schneider.  There are so many other, not to
>mention better, sources for just about anything.

Like the places Braun and Schneider got their stuff from, etc.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk Q
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 08:37:31 -0400
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

>When does Dupionni or Shantung (are they the same?) silk first appear?

Well, I can't say when they first appear.  But I can say they aren't the 
same (at least not modernly).

Shantung is a fabric of any fiber that has a slubby weft.

Dupioni is a silk fabric woven from a yarn reeled from a twin cocoon.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 07:42:28 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 08:57:22 EDT
Subject: H-COST: william wallace again
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



This is getting way OT, but I don't think I'd agree that Wallace wasn't a 
patriot. He wasn't an American-style patriot, by any means. But he has been 
called one of the first modern sort of patriots by some historians, because 
he really was all for Scotland being independent of England, not just for 
this or that family being in charge. Anyway, I believe that the SCOTS 
certainly think so, and they have a long history of wanting independence. 
William Wallace was very much in evidence this year when the Scots finally 
got their own parliament. They haven't had one in 300 years and they opened 
this one as if the last one had happened a week ago. A friend of mine was in 
Edinburgh at the time, and when she got back we marveled over the way the 
Scots still care about things that happend hundreds of years ago as if they 
had happened yesterday. It's a European kind of attitude that we Americans 
think we understand but, when face to face with it, we just don't get it. 
It's one of those qualities that you give up to become and American.

Gail
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 08:27:31 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 09:41:40 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: william wallace again
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/28/1999 9:00:21 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<<  It's a European kind of attitude that we Americans 
 think we understand but, when face to face with it, we just don't get it.  >>

Hmmmmm...must be why there so many Civil War reenactors.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 08:30:33 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft and the businesses
	whoindulge in it]
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

In a message dated 10/27/99 9:40:42 PM Central Daylight Time, 
cjcannon@greymists.com writes:

> I missed the
>  original post...could someone please forward it to me.  I want to have a
>  clue...I really do about what everyone is talking about  :-)

I, too, missed out. But I would love to be involved in the solution. Could 
someone email me the original post? Thx!

DaniG
DRGurley@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 08:38:14 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Irene leNoir wrote:
> Shantung is a fabric of any fiber that has a slubby weft.
> 
> Dupioni is a silk fabric woven from a yarn reeled from a twin cocoon.

Looks like different sources will define it differently.  The source I
used for my silk page said that the slubbed yarn has identical
provenance, but Shantung is silk with slubs in one direction (as Irene
said), and Dupioni is silk with slubs in two directions.

cv
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 09:32:55 1999
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From: "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Japanese clothing
Message-Id: <941122009.7446.896@excite.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 07:46:49 PDT
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-Poster: "maureen+ brown" <edolen@excite.com>

Ok, I'm guessing now that the outfit *isn't* authentic and I shouldn't look
for an explanation of the bunching in historical clothing. I will look at
sumo wrestling;  do the referees' clothes look just like this garment?

The character is male but a demon and the necklace is supposed to be a
magical/holy thing, so the character *wouldn't* normally wear it (and in the
story, would very much like to get rid of it ^_^).  I was assuming the
purple string was for tying up the bunchy stuff (whatever it is). I did see
a later garment (hitare) with a kimono opening and the drawstring sleeves
with some kind of string around the neck opening, but the string isn't used
to tye anything up, and the kimono lies flat, rather than bunching.

Anyway, thanks for your help and if anything else occurs to you, please let
me know.

    --Maureen

(An image of what I'm trying to make
> > can be seen here:
> > http://www.ualberta.ca/~aziesel/inuyasha/tank5.html;  the red costume.)

On Wed, 27 Oct 1999 20:45:26 -0700, Susan Fatemi wrote:

> You mean the "drawstring" sleeve? In books and a museum exhibit,
> I've only seen this on a jacket-type garment "karaginu" (not counting
> the court-style tunic) never a full-length kimono. I think the 
> drawing is misleading (you almost never see bearclaw necklaces worn
> with kimonos either) and the jacket is tucked in the hakama hence
> the bunching (not fold, I think)
> 
> If you want to see real ones in action, watch the sumo wresting
> on one of the sports channels. The referees wear the whole
> outfit.
> 
> > The question I have is about the folded section in front above the
belt;
> > what is this???  The only thing I've been able to come up with is from
The
> > Book of Kimono;  when it shows the section on putting a kimono on, they
fold
> > up the "excess material" in front and fold it below the obi in a way
that
> > looks similar to this pouchy thing.
> 
> This is only for women and for modern kimonos. Not when they
> were wearing "battle dress". (Is that character female?? or male
> with long hair??)
> 
> I'm wondering what the purple string across the chest is for?
> 
> Well that's my take on it, anyway.
> 
> Susan F.
> -- 
> Oh Noh! Kimonos!
> susanf@netwiz.net
> http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 10:10:45 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 10:23:57 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: william wallace again
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I think that as a general rule, many Americans don't get a personal sense
of history because no one tries to give them one. American schools treat
the majority of history as something that happened to someone else
somewhere else, not as something that has relevancy to them. I know many
people who are passionate about history (okay, I have a skewed population
sample ;-) ), and are very emotionally involved, and every summer at the
RenFaire (imperfect tho it is) we give Americans a sense that history can
be alive and interesting. And 20-25 thousand people coming each day has
got to say something about Americans wanting to be involved in history.
Do people in other parts of the US, East Coast or Southwest, where at
least in theory more history happened, find that there is more personal
involvement with history?


Karen

On Thu, 28 Oct 1999 08:57:22 EDT Gaelscot@aol.com writes:
> 
> -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
> 
> 
> 
> This is getting way OT, but I don't think I'd agree that Wallace 
> wasn't a 
> patriot. He wasn't an American-style patriot, by any means. But he 
> has been 
> called one of the first modern sort of patriots by some historians, 
> because 
> he really was all for Scotland being independent of England, not 
> just for 
> this or that family being in charge. Anyway, I believe that the 
> SCOTS 
> certainly think so, and they have a long history of wanting 
> independence. 
> William Wallace was very much in evidence this year when the Scots 
> finally 
> got their own parliament. They haven't had one in 300 years and they 
> opened 
> this one as if the last one had happened a week ago. A friend of 
> mine was in 
> Edinburgh at the time, and when she got back we marveled over the 
> way the 
> Scots still care about things that happend hundreds of years ago as 
> if they 
> had happened yesterday. It's a European kind of attitude that we 
> Americans 
> think we understand but, when face to face with it, we just don't 
> get it. 
> It's one of those qualities that you give up to become and American.
> 
> Gail
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 10:11:01 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>


> I was assuming the
> purple string was for tying up the bunchy stuff (whatever it is). 

I am not an expert on asian costume, but my interpretation of the
"purple string" is that it is edge-piping on the edge of the garment
where it closes over the chest, with a matching tie, fastened in a bow
-- one on the edge of the garment and one mid-chest, so that when tied,
they overlap.

cv

--
The way to draw a girl, I somehow absorbed [as a child], was to draw a
regular person, then add certain signifiers: long hair, a skirt, high
heels, huge curling eyelashes.  I didn't look like that, and there was
something instinctively offensive to me about  overgeneralizing women
merely as a way to differentiate them from "regular" -- i.e. male --
people.  The female is [drawn as] a male with accessories.        --
Alison Bechdel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 10:31:01 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 16:45:28 +0100
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 From: Henk 't Jong - tScapreel <scapreel@tip.nl>

 >
>" That's just my handicap: I know too much of medieval history and customs  "
A truly terrible and awesome burden; sometimes the rest of us tend to forget
just how lucky we are in our ignorance and simple enjoyments;
LD Mundy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 10:34:03 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 10:44:13 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Walter Robin Findlay <findlay@griffon.mwsc.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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-Poster: Walter Robin Findlay <findlay@griffon.mwsc.edu>

I got mine from amozon.com england not the american one


>-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 10/28/99 3:36:39 AM !!!First Boot!!!, charlene@flash.net
>writes:
>
><< Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
>
> Anyone know where one can purchase (new or used) a copy of this book?
>
> Thanks,
> --Charlene >>
>
>
>Charlene,
>
>    I purchased mine from a friend, who bought it for the needlework
>documentation.  She was laureled and passed it on to me.  I have not been
>able to find it available from any of the regular book stores, but I have
>seen it from time to time appear at Ren Faire book sellers.  I think however
>your best bet would be to search the out of print/ hard to find book finders
>on line.  Before Stasya sold her book to me, I had to inter library loan it
>and I made coppies of several sections that I had immediate use for.  I am
>sorry that I can't provide you with a deffinite place to go.  Perhaps you
>could contact the publishers:
>
>WS Maney and Sons Ltd, Hudson Road, Leeds, Great Brittain
>ISBN 0901286206
>
>I purchased mine for second hand for $100, but I wouldn't part with it for
>$500....Good luck.
>
>Charles
>
>Would you mind if I posted your request to other lists?



THANK YOU
W. ROBIN FINDLAY

"Is that all there is?".................Miss Peggy Lee
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 11:02:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 09:20:30 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

>  I think however
> your best bet would be to search the out of print/ hard to find book finders
> on line.  Before Stasya sold her book to me, I had to inter library loan it
> and I made coppies of several sections that I had immediate use for.  I am
> sorry that I can't provide you with a deffinite place to go.  Perhaps you
> could contact the publishers:

This book was re-published last year and is widely available as many have said.
Ain't it grand!?

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 11:06:21 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991028.102405.-433945.1.seamstrix@juno.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: william wallace again
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 12:23:24 -0400
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

> Do people in other parts of the US, East Coast or Southwest, where at
> least in theory more history happened, find that there is more personal
> involvement with history?

I didn't care much about history until I moved to Richmond, VA.  History is
a very active part of our area.  There is something about touching or
standing in area where a historic event occured that moves people.  It also
takes the right person to guide and explain what happened at a historic
site.  I will never forget the first time I went to the Petersburg
Battlefield and saw the Crater and the tunnel.  On that same day, an
infantry crew ran a cannon on a wagon across a field and then fired it.
Movies or history books do not stir that kind of excitement but seeing real
people recreating an event does.

I have spent the last two months out shooting photographs of historic
reenactments and I have not left the Richmond area yet.  Sometimes, so many
events are going on that I have had to pick and choice which one I wanted to
go to most.  It has been a blast.  I have sat down and talked with the
people about why they love the period and why they choose to represent it.
Believe me, I have learned more about history form these people who have
made it their passion, than ever learning from a book.

When people are passing through our area, we always stop and take them on a
"tour" (as we call it) in whatever area of history they are interested in.
My personal favorite is what I call the Petersburg Ghost Tour and Hollywood
Cemetry.  Last week, a cousin came in town who was interested in the ACW, so
we did the Historical Society, Lee's Encampment, Monument Ave., White House
of the Confederacy and Museum.  I love taking people around the historic
sites.  One of our cousins really likes Stuart.  She was so excited when she
saw his statue on Monument Ave., and just cryed when she saw his hat with
the feather in the Museum of the Confederacy.  She couldn't believe that she
was actually seeing it.  That's what makes these "tours" so much fun, when
they can see and touch history.

When my husband went to Egypt, I told him, "I won't believe those pyrimads
are really there until you bring me back a picture with you in front of
them."  When he got home, he handed me a picture of himself in front of the
pyrimads.  I told him, "Now I believe they are there!"

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com




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Subject: H-COST: Movies
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-Poster: psychopixi@flashmail.net


"m b" <gwenvyre@hotmail.com> wrote: 
"If one is going to point out the differences between historical fact, and 
fiction, why not ALSO point out the things in the film that really DID 
happen!  How else can you show more than a biased viewpoint?

Hear hear!  I applaud your fairness.  Thank you!

(lurk mode OFF)  First, let me preface this message with the caveat that my mail provider has been losing approximately every other message for the last few days, so if I repeat anything already covered, please forgive me.

Also, please forgive the OT nature of this string.

The persons who subscribe to this list are on average a well-educated, bunch who share among other things, a penchant for history.  The **average** movie goer is not.  

I am well aware of the flaws in Braveheart, be they in historical accuracy or in costuming, or whatever.  It is extremely easy to sit back and pick apart someone else's work.  It is much harder to create (as most of you well know!).  Flaws aside, Braveheart acquainted millions of people with a time period that they previoously were well nigh completely ignorant of.  It led many people to look further into that and other time periods, and for this, I give it extreme kudos.  I am completely behind sharing information with others.  

What Mel and his people did was bring a little known legend to life.  They told a rocking good story.  (and at least they TRIED to do the accents)  (Henk- how good is your Scottish accent?)  Please remember that it was a story, pure entertainment.  Years before it was released I heard about it and marveled that someone had the courage to gamble so much money and effort on a movie that would on the surface have such limited appeal, but I couldn't wait to see it.  When it came out I dragged myself and my freshly squeezed son to it (before I was supposed to be allowed out of the house), I whooped, laughed, and yes, cried.  It was thoroughly entertaining.  For the first time I could clearly see what I had only read about in puzzlement, how men and horses were tumbled and thrown far behind the lines of the other side when the two armies met.  When I joined the SCA, I did so seeking the feelings that watching the battle scenes of that movie made me feel.  I shivered and cringed and !
!
bounced up and down in my seat.  If other people felt that way- great!  They must have, else it would not have garnered the acclaim and money that it has.

All flaws aside, the movie brought a little knowledge to a lot of people.  It also entertained them.  Before snarking about it, look at other movies that are out and compare.  I'd take a flawed historical piece over Die Hard, Scream, etc. any day.  Why not cut people a little slack?

Well, that's my own two cents...  Carry on (lurk mode ON)

Sigrid


Knowing others is intelligence:
knowing yourself is true wisdom.
Mastering others is strength;
mastering yourself is true power.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 11:15:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 12:29:30 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
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-Poster: Pandoorah@aol.com

> but it would be better if you
>weren't working out of Braun & Schneider.  There are so many other, not to
>mention better, sources for just about anything.


Personally, I like Braun & Schneider...  I think they are great to flip 
through when looking for an idea...  Once I get one, I go to secondary 
sources (art books and the like) to find what it really looked like, and try 
to decide is what I see is what I want.  Not to mention, is is great when 
trying to help people who don't know anything about costumes/time periods get 
a basic understanding.

Shannon
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 11:37:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 09:49:53 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I have very strong feeling about the subject, but I mostly know it from a
book publishing standpoint.
Fran Grimble is the person I defer to in these matters.
However..... if there is copyright infringement then giving *credit* is not
enough.  These people should get it off their website - i.e. cease and
desist.
It is a legal matter and the web is too new for me to know that much about
it.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it
>Date: Wed, Oct 27, 1999, 7:24 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>
>
>
>Fran?  Rob Shep?  What say you on this subject?
>As people in the book business, I know I have seen posts from one or both
of 
>you on copyright infringement & the law.  Your 2c would be interesting in 
>this case.
>
>Susannah
>
>
>
>
>> > and Cynthia wrote:
>> > >...and tell us if you think it would be useful for us to post "shame
on
>> > >you for stealing copyright material" notes (polite ones) to them.
>> >
>> > While I agree some action like this should be taken at a minimum, I
have
>> > to admit that if it were my work that they'd stolen, I'd be leaning
>> > towards a much harsher reaction.
>> >
>> > I think perhaps people have missed the point that they're a business, 
>>and
>> > they've been using the stolen material to promote their sales.
>> > Admittedly, I'm no lawyer, but it seems to me that because of this
>> > they've opened themselves right up to a copyright infringement suit 
>>which
>> > could ask for money damages.
>> >


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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 10:10:26 -0700
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I'm not sure B&S gives anyone the basic understanding you want them to have,
since the lines are often wrong, or moved, or missing, and dates and places
are misattributed.  It's all in one place, sure, but that just makes it
easier to toss in the trash.

Why not start with those art books to begin with?

Just my tuppence ha'penny

MaggiRos
secaram@mainsaver.com

A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net

Leap, and the net will appear.
	--Orson Wells

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Pandoorah@aol.com [SMTP:Pandoorah@aol.com]
> Sent:	Thursday, October 28, 1999 5:30 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	Re: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
> 
> 
> -Poster: Pandoorah@aol.com
> 
> > but it would be better if you
> >weren't working out of Braun & Schneider.  There are so many other, not
> to
> >mention better, sources for just about anything.
> 
> 
> Personally, I like Braun & Schneider...  I think they are great to flip 
> through when looking for an idea...  Once I get one, I go to secondary 
> sources (art books and the like) to find what it really looked like, and
> try 
> to decide is what I see is what I want.  Not to mention, is is great when 
> trying to help people who don't know anything about costumes/time periods
> get 
> a basic understanding.
> 
> Shannon
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 10:58:12 -0700
From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
Organization: Lavolta Press
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



R.L. Shep wrote:

> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
> I have very strong feeling about the subject, but I mostly know it from a
> book publishing standpoint.
> Fran Grimble is the person I defer to in these matters.

I mostly know it from a print publishing standpoint too, and I'm not a lawyer.
I'd recommend that the people whose copyright was violated (a) verify whether
the site linked to or copied their pages and then (b) consult a lawyer.  At
least at the beginning, they might want to get together and consult the same
lawyer to save time and money.  In the US, for a lawyer to actually sue for
you, he/she has to be located either in the state where you do business or the
state where the person you are suing does business.  A branch or sales office
of either party can serve, so what is really interesting to me is how this
applies to the net, which is everywhere.  I just don't know.

In my mind there are some uses of links that ought to be illegal without the
permission of the owners of the pages, but this is where you get into the new,
fuzzy area of web copyright.  On the other hand, just copying someone's
material (unless the copyright has expired) and reprinting it without their
permission, anywhere, is already clearly illegal.  I should add that some book
and magazine designs can be copyrighted (the more unique, the more likely) and
this probably includes web designs too.

I have seen my material appear under other people's names more than once and it
is indeed a very unpleasant experience.  Anyway, as I see it, in this case
there are three courses of action:  (a) Tell the person to take the material
off their web site right away or you'll take legal action (b) Tell the person
to take it off their web site right away _and_ you want some money paid to you
for its past use and for how its use/sale by you has been diminished by their
illicit use or  (c) Tell them you're very angry but you understand this might
have been a mistake on their part.  And since they find your material so very
useful they can continue using it--as long as they not only put your name and
copyright info on it, but pay you money.  Because a web site can exist an
indefinite amount of time in any given form, if you think they will use the
material for a long time you might want to make them pay a monthly payment, or
whatever, instead of a lump sum.  Although you should also be paid for the
length of time they've _already_ used your material.

Option (a) is probably the easiest and cheapest to pursue for you to pursue,
because it costs them only a few minutes and no money at all to pull your
material off their site.  I might add that if you want to do much more than
that, it probably should be with the help of a lawyer.

Lawyers think you ought to consult them right away, and if you take a lot of
action before you've come to them you'll just make things more complicated and
mess them up. Which in many cases is probably true. However, doing research on
your own--such as finding out how long the material has been on the site--will
save you some money.  Lawyers bill by the hour (it's also unwise to spend the
hourly time telling them how upset you are).


> However..... if there is copyright infringement then giving *credit* is not
> enough.

This is absolutely true.  The legal issue is not credit, it's the right of the
copyright owner to control the use of his/her work and derive payment from it
if he/she wishes. Academic "credit" (telling the world where you got your
_information_) is an entirely different issue from copyright.  It is not legal
to use someone's text or illustrations without their permission even if you
give them full credit.

Incidentally, it is a very good idea to put your name and copyright notice on
all the sections of your web site, not just your index page.  This won't stop
people whose intent is to copy your work.  But if someone just links to a
subpage, your name will at least be right there to avoid confusing readers
about whose site they are reading right now.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 12:54:09 1999
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From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it--again
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

BTW, if anyone is planning to take legal action regarding  this web site, I'd
recommend downloading and saving  a  copy of it as it is right now with the
copyright violations. If the person hears complaints (and who knows, they might
even be on this mailing list) and removes the material, and you go back and
it's not there and they say, "Huh?  What blackwork page?" you have a problem.
There is probably a legal way to get their ISP to pull an old backup from their
server but that would be harder.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 13:06:02 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 11:23:30 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and links
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I have seen some mention of *links* not being useable without permission.  
I would like clarification.  I have always thought it was OK to put a link
in for another site - if it was clear that it was just that i.e. another
site. 
When I had my own website I had links to other sites and gave reviews of
those sites so that people could decide if they wanted to go see for
themselves.  We are considering reviving this practice
By the same token I find people on this list putting a link into their
messages all the time so that other people can go to a site in question.
In my mind it is the same as saying *read X book*.
Any comments?
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it
>Date: Thu, Oct 28, 1999, 10:58 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
>
>
>
>R.L. Shep wrote:
>
>> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>>
>> I have very strong feeling about the subject, but I mostly know it from a
>> book publishing standpoint.
>> Fran Grimble is the person I defer to in these matters.
>
>I mostly know it from a print publishing standpoint too, and I'm not a
lawyer.
>I'd recommend that the people whose copyright was violated (a) verify
whether
>the site linked to or copied their pages and then (b) consult a lawyer.  At
>least at the beginning, they might want to get together and consult the
same
>lawyer to save time and money.  In the US, for a lawyer to actually sue for
>you, he/she has to be located either in the state where you do business or
the
>state where the person you are suing does business.  A branch or sales
office
>of either party can serve, so what is really interesting to me is how this
>applies to the net, which is everywhere.  I just don't know.
>
>In my mind there are some uses of links that ought to be illegal without
the
>permission of the owners of the pages, but this is where you get into the
new,
>fuzzy area of web copyright.  On the other hand, just copying someone's
>material (unless the copyright has expired) and reprinting it without their
>permission, anywhere, is already clearly illegal.  I should add that some
book
>and magazine designs can be copyrighted (the more unique, the more likely)
and
>this probably includes web designs too.
>
>I have seen my material appear under other people's names more than once
and it
>is indeed a very unpleasant experience.  Anyway, as I see it, in this case
>there are three courses of action:  (a) Tell the person to take the
material
>off their web site right away or you'll take legal action (b) Tell the
person
>to take it off their web site right away _and_ you want some money paid to
you
>for its past use and for how its use/sale by you has been diminished by
their
>illicit use or  (c) Tell them you're very angry but you understand this
might
>have been a mistake on their part.  And since they find your material so
very
>useful they can continue using it--as long as they not only put your name
and
>copyright info on it, but pay you money.  Because a web site can exist an
>indefinite amount of time in any given form, if you think they will use the
>material for a long time you might want to make them pay a monthly payment,
or
>whatever, instead of a lump sum.  Although you should also be paid for the
>length of time they've _already_ used your material.
>
>Option (a) is probably the easiest and cheapest to pursue for you to
pursue,
>because it costs them only a few minutes and no money at all to pull your
>material off their site.  I might add that if you want to do much more than
>that, it probably should be with the help of a lawyer.
>
>Lawyers think you ought to consult them right away, and if you take a lot
of
>action before you've come to them you'll just make things more complicated
and
>mess them up. Which in many cases is probably true. However, doing research
on
>your own--such as finding out how long the material has been on the
site--will
>save you some money.  Lawyers bill by the hour (it's also unwise to spend
the
>hourly time telling them how upset you are).
>
>
>> However..... if there is copyright infringement then giving *credit* is
not
>> enough.
>
>This is absolutely true.  The legal issue is not credit, it's the right of
the
>copyright owner to control the use of his/her work and derive payment from
it
>if he/she wishes. Academic "credit" (telling the world where you got your
>_information_) is an entirely different issue from copyright.  It is not
legal
>to use someone's text or illustrations without their permission even if you
>give them full credit.
>
>Incidentally, it is a very good idea to put your name and copyright notice
on
>all the sections of your web site, not just your index page.  This won't
stop
>people whose intent is to copy your work.  But if someone just links to a
>subpage, your name will at least be right there to avoid confusing readers
>about whose site they are reading right now.
>
>Fran Grimble
>
>---------------------------------------------
>Visit our web pages!
>Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
>http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
>Historic and vintage dance
>http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm
>
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 13:19:42 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:38:16 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: History's mysteries
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

><<  It's a European kind of attitude that we Americans 
>> think we understand but, when face to face with it, we just don't get it.  

>Hmmmmm...must be why there so many Civil War reenactors.
---------------------------------------------------------

My great-grandfather fought in the Civil War (American).  That is still
relatively recent history, only 3 generations away.  

I believe individuals in many "old world" countries do have an extended 
memory of history that is alien to the average American.  It may be 
a function of different ethnic groups feeling their American history began 
when their group or family arrived from 1492 on (excluding native Americans). 
Also several million Americans had their history almost obliterated 
due to enslavement and separation from Africa.

In the US, emigration, nuclear families, high rates of mobility to follow
jobs, 
and a low level of concern about attachment to "place" reinforce this, IMHO.
(Go west, young man!)

Its not the same as being in Egypt, for example. I remember trying to
visit a 16th century merchant's house (museum) in Cairo.  The locals thought
that was way too modern to bother visiting.  "Real" historic sites were
counted in the thousands, not hundreds, of years. It is different there.

During the 1970's, I tried to explain how Shi'ites are VERY affected by 
events that took place before 700 A.D. and how it drove the Iranian 
revolution. I'd get blank stares from students. They couldn't comprehend 
anyone caring about anything longer than 15 years.  IMHO the rapid increase 
in US re-enactment is helping to counter that false "history-less" trend.  

[I once asked a student in what decade the War of 1812 took place.  He thought
it was a trick question and said 1860.  Sigh.)

end of rambling.
--------------------------------------------- 


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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 11:09:08 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Catherine Keegan <keegan@mcn.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: henk on braveheart
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-Poster: Catherine Keegan <keegan@mcn.org>

>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>snip<  He says Wallace was so fascinating that he 
>could write a better script himself. Of course, maybe there WAS a better 
>script than the one we saw . . .

I for one cannot understand why they have never done a movie about The
Bruce.  The real story reads like a movie script, to me anyway - it even
has plenty of "love interest" so you wouldn't have to make it up like
Isabella in Braveheart.

Tim


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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 11:06:23 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Catherine Keegan <keegan@mcn.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
In-Reply-To: <008b01bf209a$73ac7e40$afd5f1c3@henk>
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-Poster: Catherine Keegan <keegan@mcn.org>

Tim Bray, posting from Catherine's account:

Braveheart was a great movie.  It was a lousy documentary, but that's not
what it was supposed to be.

Why does anyone who understands history always expect that every historical
movie will be a documentary?  The five deadly words are found at the
opening credits: "Based on a true story."  That means someone took the
story, kept a couple of the names and maybe a tiny piece of the real
setting, and made the rest up according to the Hollywood formulas.  So
what?  It's entertainment, not education.

Such criticism should be reserved for actual documentaries or those movies
that do purport to show the "real story."  Part of the entertainment of
watching Braveheart and other "based on a true story" movies, for me at
least, is laughing at the costumes, manners, and other goofy inventions the
H'wood types stick in!

On the other hand, there are the rare occasions when they got more right
than wrong - "Last of the Mohicans" for example.

Just a contrarian view!

Tim Bray

>
>-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
>Hi,
>
>Gail wrote:
>> I am interested to hear so many people's opinions of "Braveheart," because
>it
>> was such a popular film. Here is my experience with it: My husband and I
>saw
>> it in the theater and really liked it. In fact, we raved about it. Then we
>> checked out the real history (we have a strange habit of doing that . . .)
>> and found, as usual with a historical film, that it was much more
>> interesting.
>
>That's just my handicap: I know too much of medieval history and customs to
>be able to take the nonsense Hollywood shows. They don't have the knowledge
>(I mean writers, art directors, costumers, setdesigners and finally
>directors) to make a good product which is a good story as well as a
>spectacular film. The real histories are often much more interesting than
>what Hollywood makes of them, because movies, according to the powers that
>be, have to underwrite a kind of cliche vision of historiy and storytelling.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 13:27:52 1999
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From: Catherine Keegan <keegan@mcn.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
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-Poster: Catherine Keegan <keegan@mcn.org>

>-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
>Well, it's usually assumed that unless someone points out otherwise, what
>happens in a historical movie is more or less true.

Good heavens, where did that assumption come from?  Certainly not borne out
by analysis of historical movies, I think...  ;->


>True enough, but "patriot for his country" seems to imply a Revolutionary
>War/modern ethos. Wallace was not standing up for all the poor oppressed
>peasant Scotsmen being oppressed by the nasty Englishmen;  rather, he had
>much closer affinities for those of his own class (gentry, small to
>mid-sized landowners, the "knightly" class) in their aspirations, which
>often brought them into conflict with English landowners and the English
>crown. 

Hmmm... I am not convinced that is all that much different from the
American Rev. War situation.  Much of the knightly class did not support
Wallace, and the nobility was divided, as you note.  But the rhetoric used
by those at the time makes it pretty clear that the fight was indeed
nationalistic and that Wallace's goal was to free Scotland from English
dominion.  In fact, the single most distinguishing characteristic of his
rebellion was the purity of its motive... as opposed to, say, Robert the
Bruce.

>
>Simon de Montfort was also chopped into bits and set around England.  It's
>interesting to compare him with Wallace.  I don't think I've ever seen
>Montfort called a "patriot," although you can't cross a bridge in the
>Midlands without running into him.

Interesting comparison.  What were de Montfort's motives?  What (or who)
was he fighting for?

Wallace is only called a "patriot" by the Scots; the English have always
called him a traitor.

Have you read the Declaration of Arbroath?  I would put it side by side
with the Declaration of Independence.  The language of it is so forceful
that anyone with a shred of sympathy for the Scots or any other underdogs
would immediately regard Wallace and Bruce as not only patriots, but
heroes.  Without such prose, other rebellions - particularly unsuccessful
ones with baser motives - are not cloaked in glamor.  What do you suppose
would have happened in America if there were no Jefferson and no Declaration?

>Actually, speaking of things not too badly done in the movie, the women's
>costuming (the panne velour cotehardie notwithstanding) was better than I've
>seen in a number of movies. It was recognizable as 14th century, and the
>headdresses were nice. Too often the nifty headgear is ditched because
>someone decides it's fussy or "oppressive."

It should have been recognizable as 13th century!  But I do agree that it
was nice to see noblewomen's hair covered.  The fabric choices were largely
disastrous, though.  That thing they had young Edward in was a howler!

I did get a kick out of the English soldiers' armor - goofy looking, and
clearly based on an illustration from a copy of the late 14th century poem,
"The Bruce."  (My copy is packed so I can't get the date for the
illustration.)

Tim Bray
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



R.L. Shep wrote:

> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
> I have seen some mention of *links* not being useable without permission.
> I would like clarification.  I have always thought it was OK to put a link
> in for another site - if it was clear that it was just that i.e. another
> site.

Robb,

Try this web site for info, especially the sub pages relating to the Internet.
The author is a lawyer specializing in intellectual property law.

http://www.benedict.com/contents.htm



>
> When I had my own website I had links to other sites and gave reviews of
> those sites so that people could decide if they wanted to go see for
> themselves.  We are considering reviving this practice
> By the same token I find people on this list putting a link into their
> messages all the time so that other people can go to a site in question.
> In my mind it is the same as saying *read X book*.
> Any comments?

In my mind there is an ethical difference between different types of links.  In
a web site such as yours, the links are essentially a bibliography.  Readers are
not confused about which web site is yours and which sites belong to other
people.

On the other hand, there are sites that link to other peoples' subpages in a way
that uses the content of those pages to support their own pages and which makes
it unclear which pages belong to who.  This may not be intentional in some
cases, but it  makes me uneasy.

Then there is a third issue of association.  For example, if you object to
pornography and a pornography web site links to your page on "Making a Victorian
Corset," which you intended for serious historical costumers.  I don't know if
this violates copyright, but it could certainly be objectionable.

Anyway, the web site I recommended discusses some of these issues.

Fran Grimble


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 13:48:45 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 05:08:30 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: why own Braun and Schneider?
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>I'm not sure B&S gives anyone the basic understanding you want them to have,
>since the lines are often wrong, or moved, or missing, and dates and places
>are misattributed.  It's all in one place, sure, but that just makes it
>easier to toss in the trash.
>
>Why not start with those art books to begin with?

For a several reasons.  

First, I found that SCA beginners who didn't have any idea of what they
wanted overloaded pretty quickly when I brought out my best books.  Their
newbie brains couldn't yet see past the artistic style changes from one
period to another, and they closed the books in exasperation and confusion.
 B&S, in their cartoon-like way, provided the 'Reader's Digest' version of
all of the SCA periods, in one place, so those people could get started.
Then I would zero in on whatever period they picked - "Now let's see what
this really looked like" - in another book.  Anyway, that's why I got my
copy and how I mostly used it.  (Opinion alert:  I'll take a Victorian
redrawing over anything R. Turner Wilcox ever did!)

Secondly, B&S provides me with a Victorian slant on historical costumes,
such that I can understand Victorian better.  This is useful when I do
Victorian 'fancy dress' (their idea of dressing up in costume).  I also use
B&S as a source of Victorian copies which, when compared with the original
picture, provides me with a guideline by which to measure degree of
Victorian distortion.  I often used to find the Victorian image of some
garment before I found the image they copied, and now I have a feel for
translating back out of Victorian if all I have is a Victorian image (not
foolproof).  

But my favourite use for B&S is in the contemporary (=Victorian) ethnic
sections.  Their engravers were apparently working from photographs, and
the correlation between the B&S plates and any photographs from that period
which I can find is pretty good.  So good that I tend to believe the plates
even when I have no photos to compare with.  I often question the captions
to their plates, but the stuff in them is pretty accurate, and more
detailed than I can usually find elsewhere.  


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:14:12 -0500
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft and links
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>>
>I have seen some mention of *links* not being useable without permission.  
>I would like clarification.  I have always thought it was OK to put a link
>in for another site - if it was clear that it was just that i.e. another
>site. 
>When I had my own website I had links to other sites and gave reviews of
>those sites so that people could decide if they wanted to go see for
>themselves.  We are considering reviving this practice
>By the same token I find people on this list putting a link into their
>messages all the time so that other people can go to a site in question.
>In my mind it is the same as saying *read X book*.
>Any comments?

There are a number of arguements regarding this, however, legally simply
linking to a site is perfectly legal, even without permission since it's
just another form of citation.

I believe the real debate emerges between two different styles of linking.
In the first, the linker clearly specifies that the material being linked to
is outside their site (e.g. "for more on Sumerian facial tatoos, see Cawdrey 
Shiffer's site at http://"www.blah.blah.com""; or setting up a special "Links
section"), as opposed to simply linking to the other site with no notice 
(e.g. "for more on Sumerian facial tatoos, look _here_") as though it were a
continuation of your work.  The latter is technically legal, although it is
rude and potentially misleading.

Beyond that, there ARE some people who don't want there material linked to,
ever, for whatever reason, period, full stop.  That's ok for them, and I 
try to respect that.  Me, I figure if people are going to use my material,
links are going to happen.  If they lead more people to my stuff, all the 
better.  It would be nice if they were a little more specific.  If nothing
else, I'd rather not have the lack of credibility added to my site (THAT much
I can do myself :) )

Marc
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 12:10:18 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> >Simon de Montfort was also chopped into bits and set around England.  It's
> >interesting to compare him with Wallace.  I don't think I've ever seen
> >Montfort called a "patriot," although you can't cross a bridge in the
> >Midlands without running into him.
>
> Interesting comparison.  What were de Montfort's motives?  What (or who)
> was he fighting for?

Montfort's motives were, as I understand it not being a history expert, were that
he desired a 'parliament' type group that would have representatives from *every*
class in England, not just the nobility.  He wanted the workers represented.
Possibly the first socialist.  *GGG*

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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-Poster: "Carol J. Cannon" <cjcannon@libpo.ucdavis.edu>


Date: W991027 From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net> wrote :  I'd be interested
in this information, too, please.  Or at least the names of the books?--Susan F.
    Here are the bib. ref's. for both books:
Shen, Ts'ung-wen, 1902-    .  Chung-kuo ku tai fu shih yen chiu / the author
... [et al.]. Hsiang-kang : Shang wu yin shu kuan, 1992.  9, 28, 328 p. : ill. 
(some col.) ; 36 cm. + 1 index (45 p. ; 36 cm.).  LC Call No.:  Gt1555.S53 1992.
LCCN:   82168821 /ACN  ISBN: 9620750004.    
    This book shows various classes of persons over more than the Tang dynasty.
Lu, Yu[with umlaut]-lin.  Chao-ling T'ang jen fu shih.  Hsi-an : San ch'in ch'u
pan she, 1990.  [4], 160 p. : ill. ; 27 cm.  Inc. bib'l. ref's.  LC Call No. :
GT1555.C554 1990  ISBN:  7805462925.  
    This latter book is strictly for the T'ang dynasty.
    I hope these books will be available through Interlibrary Loan and that you
may find them useful.  Good luck!  Gra/inne / Carol
                         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"We dance round in a ring and suppose,/But the Secret sits in the middle and
 knows."--Robert Frost, 'The Secret Sits' My opinions do NOT represent my 
employer's.--Carol J. Bell Cannon ;cjcannon@ucdavis.edu ; Catalog, Main 
Library, UCD ; (530) 752-6739
  



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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 12:54:58 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: History's mysteries
In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.32.19991028143816.006b2cf0@pop.service.ohio-state.ed
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>My great-grandfather fought in the Civil War (American).  That is still
>relatively recent history, only 3 generations away.  

Mine too.  My father fought in WWII, his father fought in the Spanish
American War, and my brother was all set to have to go to Viet Nam.
Welcome to the timeline.

>During the 1970's, I tried to explain how Shi'ites are VERY affected by 
>events that took place before 700 A.D. and how it drove the Iranian 
>revolution. 

My Serbian landlords (they were Yugoslavians when we moved in), gave me the
same kind of story about those (Serbian expletives deleted) Bosnians, based
on something which happened in, I think, the 1500's.  On the bright side,
they gave me a Yugoslavian Airlines magazine with some really cool photos
of embroidered folk costumes in it.

I'd get blank stares from students. They couldn't comprehend 
>anyone caring about anything longer than 15 years.  IMHO the rapid increase 
>in US re-enactment is helping to counter that false "history-less" trend.  

What always gets me is the idea that people don't have a sense that they
are living on the same timeline as 'history'.  They don't, for example,
realize that their clothes will appear in costume books some number of
years from now.  I often see some piece of twentieth century costume
related stuff and think it's worth saving because someone may want it for
their Ph.D thesis or their museum 100 years from now.  I think about the
fact that every piece of historical costume we now have has spent all the
intervening years between 'then' and 'now' somewhere.  My younger daughter
asks what Hippies wore, and I can show her 'provenanced' period stuff, but
I keep thinking I should write that information on acid-free paper and
include it with each garment.  

>[I once asked a student in what decade the War of 1812 took place.  He
thought it was a trick question and said 1860.  Sigh.)

That's just sad.  But my teenager might have answered the same.  OTOH, my
11-year-old does Living History with me, and will wear her Ren. Faire
outfit for Halloween.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 10/28/1999 2:43:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
keegan@mcn.org writes:

<< "Last of the Mohicans" for example.
  >>

If you only knew.....

Anyone ever see Truffout's "Life of Louis IV"? Very strange. It must be 
accurate! 
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:55:41 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: william wallace again
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <0.659433f0.2549a232@aol.com>, Gaelscot@aol.com writes
>
>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>This is getting way OT, but I don't think I'd agree that Wallace wasn't a 
>patriot. He wasn't an American-style patriot, by any means. But he has been 
>called one of the first modern sort of patriots by some historians, because 
>he really was all for Scotland being independent of England, not just for 
>this or that family being in charge. Anyway, I believe that the SCOTS 
>certainly think so, and they have a long history of wanting independence. 
>William Wallace was very much in evidence this year when the Scots finally 
>got their own parliament. They haven't had one in 300 years and they opened 
>this one as if the last one had happened a week ago. A friend of mine was in 
>Edinburgh at the time, and when she got back we marveled over the way the 
>Scots still care about things that happend hundreds of years ago as if they 
>had happened yesterday. It's a European kind of attitude that we Americans 
>think we understand but, when face to face with it, we just don't get it. 
>It's one of those qualities that you give up to become and American.
>
>Gail

I'm glad your friend enjoyed it - I thought it was superb too.  It was
interesting that the English-led administration tended to refer to it as
the opening of a brand new parliament, where the Scottish Nationalists
talked about reconvening the old one.

I generally suspect that the difference in attitude between "old world"
and "new world" (which includes Australians as well) is just because our
old history is right here.  I believe that in most places in the US a
building 100 years old is pretty old - in Edinburgh it's quite new!  On
my way to work I pass buildings built from about 1200 onwards.  It's
just part of life, and that seems to be what really boggles visitors.

Mind you, still caring about things that happened hundreds of years ago
isn't always so great - Ireland, Yugoslavia, anyone? But knowing the
history accurately can maybe help defuse those feelings (rather than
using the likes of Braveheart to whip it up!)

End of rant,

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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 <0.3d51b249.2549ac94@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 12:59:25 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: History's mysteries
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Kayta's response regarding the timeline we live in hit home on several
levels.  Dad was in the Korean War, my grandfather, born in Golden Gate
Park after the 1906 earthquake was too old to be in WWII and felt the
slight all his life.  My other grandfather spent much of his life trying to
keep alive in Turkish Armenia - he wasn't Turkish - and my brother was old
enough to have a draft number but just young enough to have his number
(#23) cancelled.  There are timelines all around us, and it's important to
remember that, not just so we can keep those acid-free stories for our kids
with our hippy clothes.

>
>That's just sad.  But my teenager might have answered the same.  OTOH, my
>11-year-old does Living History with me, and will wear her Ren. Faire
>outfit for Halloween.

I'm jealous.  I can't get my kids to wear their fair outfits for halloween.
My daughter's quote was, "It's not a costume, Mom.  It's my clothes for
faire!"

LynnD
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 16:35:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: History's mysteries
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

In a message dated 10/28/99 3:44:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kayta@slip.net 
writes:

 realize that their clothes will appear in costume books some number of
 years from now.  I often see some piece of twentieth century costume
 related stuff and think it's worth saving because someone may want it for
 their Ph.D thesis or their museum 100 years from now. >>

Case in point. There is a jacket designed for the new bicycling rage of 1897 
featured in the timeline on Calendar 2000. It is identical to the suit 
jackets in the stores today! 

Sally

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
  
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 13:46:51 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>Tim Bray, posting from Catherine's account:
>
>Braveheart was a great movie.  It was a lousy documentary, but that's not
>what it was supposed to be.

I didn't expect a documentary. I know little about William Wallace, i 
don't have a jones for things Scottish as some many folks at the 
small Renn Faires at which i work do (more Scottish personae than 
English), and i have enjoyed Mel Gibson in other films.

Setting aside all the critiques of costume, history, etc., i thought 
Braveheart was a mediocre movie and way too long, considering its 
content - and length isn't an issue with me as i enjoyed watching 
3-1/2 hours of the weird Danish made-for-tv production "The Kingdom" 
(still waiting for the sequel to be available on videotape in the 
US...)

Just my strongly worded opinion.

Anahita
who will refrain from further comments on "Braveheart"

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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: History's mysteries
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 13:39:08 -0700
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I always find it kind of sobering to think of my youth as a historical era. 

MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Lynn Downward [SMTP:ldownward@chori.org]
> Sent:	Thursday, October 28, 1999 8:59 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	Re: H-COST: History's mysteries
> 
> 
> -Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
> 
> >-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> Kayta's response regarding the timeline we live in hit home on several
> levels.  Dad was in the Korean War, my grandfather, born in Golden Gate
> Park after the 1906 earthquake was too old to be in WWII and felt the
> slight all his life.  My other grandfather spent much of his life trying
> to
> keep alive in Turkish Armenia - he wasn't Turkish - and my brother was old
> enough to have a draft number but just young enough to have his number
> (#23) cancelled.  There are timelines all around us, and it's important to
> remember that, not just so we can keep those acid-free stories for our
> kids
> with our hippy clothes.
> 
> >
> >That's just sad.  But my teenager might have answered the same.  OTOH, my
> >11-year-old does Living History with me, and will wear her Ren. Faire
> >outfit for Halloween.
> 
> I'm jealous.  I can't get my kids to wear their fair outfits for
> halloween.
> My daughter's quote was, "It's not a costume, Mom.  It's my clothes for
> faire!"
> 
> LynnD
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?

I thought I had gotten off easy, as my 6 yr old wants to be a Ninja (black
sweats and a hood.  I offered to make a black gi but he declined) and my
three wants to wear last year's pumpkin suit again.  But of course, these
nice friends offered us their unused bunk beds and Silly Me just had to
volunteer custom Halloween costumes in trade.  So, I've just finished a
Batman and a tiny bride.  

I had a blast doing the bride costume.  I had an old, gaudy bridal gown that
was way out of style.  An Ebay check told me I probably couldn't get more
than $40 for it, so I ripped it apart and used it to make the costume.  Hot
glue, Elmer's, fray check, and unfinished seams;  what a nice break from my
usual meticulous work, and a pile of satin and beaded lace left over to make
bridal shower gifts.  

So what are YOU making?

Margo


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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:23:49 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
>
>I'm not sure B&S gives anyone the basic understanding you want them to have,
>since the lines are often wrong, or moved, or missing, and dates and places
>are misattributed.  It's all in one place, sure, but that just makes it
>easier to toss in the trash.
>
>Why not start with those art books to begin with?

*grin* I did. Unfortunately without a scanner, and very sporadic access to
the UBC library, all I have are copies at home. I just wanted to give an
example of the line I see in what I've researched.. and all I could find
(quickly, and online) was that.. 

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 16:13:23 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:30:38 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?
> So what are YOU making?

Well, having worn it already...  There's an annual party in my crowd always the
Saturday before Halloween.

I did not bother to do anything meticulously on this.  Not at all.  30 minutes
tops for the garments.  Two layers of sheer poly chiffon, one a t-tunic with
long sleeves, the outer layer t-tunic with no sleeves.  A huge veil with a hole
cut for my face in the same sheer, so I have wimple and veil together.  Sheer
gloves (with holes cut for my fingers, none of that finished stuff for me) with
long hangy jagged bits.  A crown of bones (about 6" high) swathed with....
sheer.  Long wired bits with mylar stars and spikes stuck into the crown (this
thing is high)  Under all that sheer a white sheath for modesty.  My spiky
tattoo on my arm showed through and I took a midnight blue eyeliner pencil and
drew a scrolled and spikey tattoo on the left side of my face.  Dark dark
eyeshadow, the whole thing brushed over with silver, just enough for *pow* but
sheer enough for all the stuff under neath to show through.  So, what was I????

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 16:30:41 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 16:49:42 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>



> So what are YOU making?

I'm helping with costumes for Anna and The King, from the movie "The King
and I," (I'll be wearing silk pajamas I already had and be the servant who
beats a gong every time the king wants to go into a new room)

I've made a hooded robe for my boyfriend, the Star Wars (Return of the
Jedi) Emperor (complete with sparking fingertips...fun with Tazers!)

I just finished a nasty (but it was what he wanted) velour hooded cloak
for someone

I'll be finishing up/revamping Pinkie (loosely based on one of the
portraits of Mme. de Pompadour) for myself for a costume contest tonight

I need to put back togeather a nasty stretch velour dress to go under the
wench bodice I need to re-cover with halloween fabric for something
vaguely witchy for class tomorrow and a geology field trip saturday
(Orange bodice with purple spiders and black webs, low cut black velour
dress under it, just below knee length, orange fishnets (remember the
fishnet conversation?) over black tights, and footwear is still uncertain.
Probably my all-black Converse sneakers)

It seems like there was something/somebody else.....hmm.

I do enjoy Halloween.  Anna's costume is taking the most time and effort.
The guy going as Yule Brenner sews well himself, and I'm really only
advising him, but Anna is having difficulty.  

Emma the Overworked

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 16:40:24 1999
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Well, I spend so much of my time doing historical costuming that by the
time Halloween rolls around, I never know what I want to do and usually
end up doing nothing. This year I am in a staged radio play of "The
Island of Doctor Moreau" by H.G. Wells which will be performed by Moebius
Theatre at the Chicago Mensa convention this Saturday. Anyway, as my part
requires me to wear a completely black outfit, and I'm going to a
Halloween party afterwards, I thought I would just follow along with the
all black theme. I got myself a black wig (I'm blond), and a black full
face mask, and black gloves, a black neckscarf, and a long black leather
coat. What am I? I'm a Mystery! It will be fun to see how many of the
people at the party recognize me in the outfit. I'm pretty sure that
people recognize me by my long hair. 

Karen
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:59:53 -0700
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>


>I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?


Hello all (my first posting--I'm no longer a lurker!)

I'm having lots of fun sewing hundreds of iridescent aqua lame scales onto
my mermaid's tail!

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson [mailto:margo@directcon.net]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 2:13 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Halloween Costumes



-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?

I thought I had gotten off easy, as my 6 yr old wants to be a Ninja (black
sweats and a hood.  I offered to make a black gi but he declined) and my
three wants to wear last year's pumpkin suit again.  But of course, these
nice friends offered us their unused bunk beds and Silly Me just had to
volunteer custom Halloween costumes in trade.  So, I've just finished a
Batman and a tiny bride.  

I had a blast doing the bride costume.  I had an old, gaudy bridal gown that
was way out of style.  An Ebay check told me I probably couldn't get more
than $40 for it, so I ripped it apart and used it to make the costume.  Hot
glue, Elmer's, fray check, and unfinished seams;  what a nice break from my
usual meticulous work, and a pile of satin and beaded lace left over to make
bridal shower gifts.  

So what are YOU making?

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 17:40:39 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
In-Reply-To: <199910282113.OAA25848@apollo.directcon.net>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 28 Oct 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> 
> So what are YOU making?
> 
Nothing! Halloween is not such a big deal here. :-(
Which is not to say that I'm not working on anything atm, it's just
for an event a couple of weeks after Oct 31 *grin*
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Gibson Girls
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

The Victorian Gathering Place website has opened up a new section for girls
between the ages of 12-18 who are interested in the Victorian Era.  This new
section is called the Gibson Girls,
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/3002/gibsongirls/  and is open for
memberships.  If you know a young lady who is in this age range and is
interested in the era, please forward this message to them.

This is not one of my websites, but I am a member of the Victorian Gathering
Place website.  The VGP is a group of ladies who are interested in the whole
Victorian Era in several fields.  Some members like costume, ettiquette, and
graphic art, to mention a few.  Their homepage URL is
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/3002/   BTW, if you get on their
email list, it is VERY active.  There is a lot of chit-chat on their email
list, but it is fun.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 19:19:34 1999
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-Poster: "Steve & Michelle Plumb" <splumb@ic.net>


"Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?"


Anybody out there watch the 70s Britcom "Are You Being Served?"

I've transformed myself into Mrs. Slocombe, right down to the bright
blue wig and 
directiore knickers.  Smash hit at last year's party!

Michelle
===========================================================
                      Steve & Michelle Plumb   --    splumb@ic.net
                                     Plymouth, Michigan  USA

"Give me ten men like Clouseau, and I could destroy the world."

					-- Herbert Lom, in
					"A Shot In the Dark"
===========================================================

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:36:38 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: william wallace again
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

In a message dated 10/28/99 6:43:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< 
 <<  It's a European kind of attitude that we Americans 
  think we understand but, when face to face with it, we just don't get it.  
>>
 
 Hmmmmm...must be why there so many Civil War reenactors.
  ___

Sure, we get it and a lot of us show it.  The difference is, we are so 
diverse in this country, we enjoy the history of ancestors from so many 
countries. 

Hence many traditions, holidays, religions, costumes, garb,  GOSH, I LOVE 
this country
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

    I'm wearing what I have for the last two years--an early 19th century 
mourning ensemble.  We do an 1814 funeral reenactment at Riversdale, the 
historic house museum where I work.  My dress, in black wool, is based on the 
one Rosalie Stier Calvert wears in her portrait by Gilbert Stuart.  I wish he 
had been more interested in clothes.  It was hard for me to figure out the 
details based on his painting.  My veil is based on one in an 1818 
Ackermann's fashion plate.  Long black gloves, black shawl, black fan (from 
Pier One), and black beaded reticule complete the outfit.  My husband 
re-enacts an Episcopal minister, so I made him a white linen surplice last 
year to wear over his white shirt, black wool knit pantaloons, and gray, 
white, and black striped silk waistcoat.  (He wears a black tailcoat, black 
felt round hat, and gray gloves when not in clerical garb.)
    One of our volunteers took pictures with infra-red film last year.  (It 
is very dark, with only candles for lighting.)  Almost everyone's black 
outfit photographed as gray, some of them very pale, but my black dress was 
still BLACK.  Weird!
    This is our third and last year for the funeral.  Next year, we will do 
an election.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 21:58:01 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 23:13:57 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>>-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
>>Well, it's usually assumed that unless someone points out otherwise, what
>>happens in a historical movie is more or less true.
>
>Good heavens, where did that assumption come from?  Certainly not borne out
>by analysis of historical movies, I think...  ;->


We, being history buffs for the most part, know better.  Comments from the
general public have indicated to me that the attitude I mentioned is the
more common one.


>Hmmm... I am not convinced that is all that much different from the
>American Rev. War situation.  Much of the knightly class did not support
>Wallace, and the nobility was divided, as you note.  But the rhetoric used
>by those at the time makes it pretty clear that the fight was indeed
>nationalistic and that Wallace's goal was to free Scotland from English
>dominion.  In fact, the single most distinguishing characteristic of his
>rebellion was the purity of its motive... as opposed to, say, Robert the
>Bruce.

I guess it's a pretty subtle shading, and part of the problem is that
Wallace has been analyzed so much in retrospect, with reference to later
periods, that it's difficult sometimes to know exactly what his motives
really were. I do think he felt a stong desire personally to fight off
English domination, but part of the problem is that most medieval historians
tend to believe the concept of "nation" was in its infancy or early
adolescence at this point, and it's difficult to ascertain for sure whether
Wallace felt the same way about Scotland as we would about our home country
(and even then, there's differences there--American patriotism is quite
different than Canadian patriotism, for instance.)

>>Simon de Montfort was also chopped into bits and set around England.  It's
>>interesting to compare him with Wallace.  I don't think I've ever seen
>>Montfort called a "patriot," although you can't cross a bridge in the
>>Midlands without running into him.
>
>Interesting comparison.  What were de Montfort's motives?  What (or who)
>was he fighting for?


Well, in his own day he was fighting for extended baronial rights;  more
involvement of the landowners (especially the great barons) in policy and
government. Henry III had levied taxes for a number of very unpopular and
unsuccessful campaigns, and Montfort became the main opposition to this.
Subsequent generations have often called him the Father of Parliament, or
even turned him into a champion of the common man (because he was the first
to call the knights of the shires to counsel the king;  these folks would
eventually evolve into the House of Commons). Many see him as a pivotal
figure in the march in England towards constitutional monarchy, rather than
a more absolutist style.


>Wallace is only called a "patriot" by the Scots; the English have always
>called him a traitor.


There's evidence that Montfort was actually venerated as a local saint for
awhile.


>>Actually, speaking of things not too badly done in the movie, the women's
>>costuming (the panne velour cotehardie notwithstanding) was better than
I've
>>seen in a number of movies. It was recognizable as 14th century, and the
>>headdresses were nice. Too often the nifty headgear is ditched because
>>someone decides it's fussy or "oppressive."
>
>It should have been recognizable as 13th century!  But I do agree that it
>was nice to see noblewomen's hair covered.  The fabric choices were largely
>disastrous, though.  That thing they had young Edward in was a howler!


Well, they got it within 50 years, which is doing better than average. :-)

>I did get a kick out of the English soldiers' armor - goofy looking, and
>clearly based on an illustration from a copy of the late 14th century poem,
>"The Bruce."  (My copy is packed so I can't get the date for the
>illustration.)


That was actually based on something?  We got a big kick out of the English
"uniform armor." That and the fact that they couldn't apparently splurge for
more than one chain mail coif. Edward had one, and someone else had one for
awhile.  Everyone else wore the knit stuff, which is fine for distance but
looks *wrong* in closeups. (Couldn't they have just passed around the real
one?)


Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 22:02:01 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 23:18:38 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>


>>I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?


Xena for my 8 year old stepdaughter and a white cat complete with ears, and
maribou feather trim for the 6 year old.  Painting all the Xena stuff too
alot longer than I thought it would.   A scrub shirt with bats and
lightening at sunset for me to wear to work.

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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Praire Dresses
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>


>The bonnet, btw, is a button bonnet, fashioned after the originals that
came
>apart in order to be easier to iron.  Not a very good one, better ones are
>available from Sunbonnet Treasures, carried by Amazon Drygoods.  They offer
>octagon, round, and square shaped button bonnets.


Don't worry about your flame undies.  They are not needed with me.  I said
this was not my area of study, and I did not know there was such a thing as
a button bonnet.  I love this list because every time I ask a dumb question
there is someone who knows the time and can help!!!!!!  Thank you. I just
thought it was a rather strange hat.

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 23:19:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!
>> Interesting comparison.  What were de Montfort's motives?  What (or who)
>> was he fighting for?
>
>Montfort's motives were, as I understand it not being a history expert,
were that
>he desired a 'parliament' type group that would have representatives from
*every*
>class in England, not just the nobility.  He wanted the workers
represented.
>Possibly the first socialist.  *GGG*


Not quite true. He was the first to call any group other than the "barons"
(major landowners) to act as counsellors to the king;  the people he called
were the "shire knights"--a rank or two below the barons, they were the
people relied upon to carry out local government, acting in such capacities
as sheriff. The "barons" would eventually evolve into the Lords, the
"knights" into the Commons. Montfort seems to have had significant support
from the merchant classes (London was a big power base) and may have been
seen as a popular hero by others, but there's no evidence he ever asked for
representation for the "working classes" (e.g. craftsmen and peasants).

Susan

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: braveheart
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 23:26:02 -0400
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

I'm always willing to look over historical felicities if the script and
acting is strong. That's why _Lion in Winter_ *rules* (I think John was a
bit too snively, but otherwise....).

If it's just entertainment....then entertain me already!

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 22:13:53 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 23:41:13 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Wendy Colbert <WendyC@vivid.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
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-Poster: Wendy Colbert <WendyC@vivid.net>

>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
>
>>>I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?

My 10 year old son, wants to be a pokemon and we settled on bulbasaur.  I
have lots of green lycra let over from an ice show that I sewed for.  I am
making a green unitard with mits and shoe covers and the bulb on his back
will be sculpted from open cell foam and covered with lycra. He wants me to
arrange it so his "collection bucket" sits in the middle of the bulb, but I
am not sure if that is going to happen.

Wendy


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 22:17:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:30:45 -0500
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

[William Shatner school of acting voice] Have... just... finished...
Obi-Wan costume... from... Episode I.  Sending to... cousin... in...
CA.  Exhausted!  Finish... Blue... tomorrow!!

Kat
off to the post office so her soon to be 6 yo cousin will have a *third*
costume for the festivities!!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 22:17:56 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 23:24:29 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft and the
  businesseswhoindulge in it]
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>> I missed the  original post...could someone please forward it to me. 

>I, too, missed out. But I would love to be involved in the solution. Could 
>someone email me the original post? Thx!

Did the orginal behind posts behind this actually make it to the h-cost
list?  I would have to make it a "me three".  The first post I saw appears
to have been at least the 5th given the responses left on it.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 22:17:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:53:43 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Anyone watching Vanity Fair?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>and of course they are all so pretty, accurate or not. and then there's
>Colonel crawly, he's a cutie!, looks a lot like Ciaran Hinds, I think he's
>the same man that played Edward Rochester in Wide Sargasso Sea. Anyway,
>lots to drool over all the way around. :)

Ciaran Hinds also played the capitan (name escapes me at the moment) in
Persuasion (the one with Fiona Shaw).  But, there is a movie version of
Wide Sargasso Sea!  Please! Give me more info.  :)

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 22:18:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:32:48 -0400
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: costumes reused (was: Anyone watching Vanity Fair?)
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Cosprop manager told us that most costumes are returned "to stock" after 
>filming. That makes them available for other films/TV productions. Very 
>possible that the same dress was seen in other productions.

That reminds me - I'm positive that the crown that "Danielle" is wearing in
"Ever After" (at the end) is the same one worn by "Kathrine" in Branagh's
"Henry V".
Anyone else ever notice recyled costumes?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 22:34:00 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 23:47:50 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

No sewing for me this year. I just finished making periwinkle polyester 
costumes for 20 chorus member in Antigone (I did NOT design the show), so I 
wanted something fast and easy- and that will stand up to cast and other 
parties on Saturday. Halloween is big on this campus...we're cleaning up dead 
leaves from the hall decorating contest as I type.

So my costume is a borrowed shirt that can best be described as a peacock on 
acid- metallic blue, purple, and green. God-aweful ugly. I have peacock 
feathers for my hair, and I'm making a tail out of balloons. Can't wait to 
see the looks.

-Alison Stacy
Ohio Wesleyan University
acstacy@cc.owu.edu
aliaclaire@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 22:57:11 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:11:46 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lee Carter <mouse@well.com>
Subject: H-COST: Theft etc,
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-Poster: Lee Carter <mouse@well.com>

As of October 28, at 9:10pm California time... Narina has changed the
website... Links to other people stuff is gone ... I think ... I hope.
Look at the new version.

Gwenyth of Mousehold Heath
aka Lee Carter

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Oct 28 23:12:03 1999
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From: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199910290411.VAA20256@smtp.well.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft etc,
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 23:26:49 -0500
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-Poster: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>

11:26 Dallas Texas time, there is no site......
Karma at work?

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lee Carter" <mouse@well.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 11:11 PM
Subject: H-COST: Theft etc,


> 
> -Poster: Lee Carter <mouse@well.com>
> 
> As of October 28, at 9:10pm California time... Narina has changed the
> website... Links to other people stuff is gone ... I think ... I hope.
> Look at the new version.
> 
> Gwenyth of Mousehold Heath
> aka Lee Carter
> 
> 

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft etc,
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

I just checked the Narnia-productions website. There is no Renaissance
Wedding page. But there is a link to Richard the Thread's website for
costume patterns.

Did anyone send an email to remind them of good business ethics? Since they
are in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, United States' laws would be
difficult to enforce, although I assume there are reciprical agreements
about copyright protections in some treaty or other.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

At 11:26 PM 10/28/99 -0500, fhavas wrote:
>11:26 Dallas Texas time, there is no site......
>Karma at work?
>
>Sincerely,
>FHavas
>Dallas, Texas
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Lee Carter" <mouse@well.com>
>Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 11:11 PM
>Subject: H-COST: Theft etc,
>> 
>> As of October 28, at 9:10pm California time... Narina has changed the
>> website... Links to other people stuff is gone ... I think ... I hope.
>> Look at the new version.
>> 
>> Gwenyth of Mousehold Heath
>> aka Lee Carter

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 00:30:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:52:20 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Halloween Costume
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

  I haven't decided the final yet this year...but was thinking of using my
dark, dark green houpplande as a start...and working from there.  I have a
matching veil, which will NEVER be worn in sunlight again...I crisped
through the silk...its very transparent for all its color.  And my green
suede shoes.  Last year, I had fallen over my daughter's black leather
overstuffed with books bookbag in an unlighted hallway and blacked both
eyes by smacking but not breaking my nose and forehead on the floor...so I
went as a pirate, and everyone loved it...no makeup, but it looked real.
{wry grin} Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 01:08:49 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 23:32:50 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>This book was re-published last year and is widely available as many have
said.
>Ain't it grand!?
>
>Cynthia
>
Yeah! Except they raised the price of the stinking thing. Geez, I may never
get to own one!

Michelle

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From Cheryl@sessionware.com  Fri Oct 29 01:48:27 1999
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From: Cheryl Melnick <Cheryl@sessionware.com>
To: 
Subject: FAN-tastic update!
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 00:10:30 -0700
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Hello to our new members and welcome to the latest update of the
International Fan Collector's Guild.
I have been busy updating the site, and welcome you to stop on by and take a
look at these new features:

The IFCG Privacy Statement
Links have been updated
A new fan shop is being built online (wait till you see what's being
offered!)
Sayu Chen's original family fan collection!
The Millenium Fan
Fan Artist Contests and tips
Bernie Seinberg's wonderful phonograph fan collection
Debbie Miller's fan recollections
New IFCG graphic buttons to add to your website!
Free Fan clip art
Bridal fans revealed
Graham Morgan antique fan postcards
Awards for the IFCG website
Any many back end features have been added to enhance your viewing
experience.

I also will be posting many fans for sale soon, as well as many link
updates, and more information for the site.  Since I received the message
below and it is of a timely nature, I wanted to be sure that you received it
in your mailbox right away, even though the latest update isn't finished.

There is still time available to post your memories, hints and stories about
fans in Collector's Corner.  For the first 10 entries to this section, each
person will be entered into a drawing for an antique fan.

I will be away next week as a speaker at a conference, so I will try to
complete all the updates when I return.  I've also added an announcement
about my business which supports the IFCG through donations of time and
resources.  The business offers web design, architecture and web
development.  

Please remember that you can order books through the website for your
upcoming Holiday shopping; 100% of the proceeds from any books you purchase
through the fan site are given to NFTE, an international charity.

As always, your email address is never sold, traded or given away without
your permission.  Please drop me a line if you've decided to be removed from
these occasional mailings.

Best wishes-
Cheryl
_______________________________
Cheryl Melnick, Webmistress
International Fan Collector's Guild
webmistress@hand-fan.org
* 408-559-7799 x 222
http://www.hand-fan.org



***********************************************************
Something else of interest:

Please join us at "The American Century: America's Fashion
Ascendancy and Its Roots," a conference to be held from Thursday
evening, November 4th through Saturday, November 6th.  Offered by
NYU's School of Continuing and Professional Studies, the
conference will examine the inception, rise, and power of American
fashion in the 20th century.

The conference considers designers and the fashions they created;
institutions and individuals who collect and preserve American
fashion; and the many aspects of marketing the American Look.

For more information, visit the Web site at
http://nyu.preferredmail.com/X?/6914-32772150/fashion

To register for the conference using a major credit card, call
(212)998-7171 on or before October 28. After that date call
(212) 998-7130.

Tuition for the conference is $250 plus a $20 registration fee.
The cost to attend for one day only is $125 plus a $20
registration fee.

The conference will feature:
..Lectures by renowned authorities, including: legendary retailer,
Stanley Marcus; one of America¹s great designers, James Galanos;
and creator of the signature wrap dress, Diane Von Furstenberg.

..Panel discussions with guest presenters: Vera Wang, fashion
designer; CNN style editor, Elsa Klensch; and designers of
distinctive accessories: Judith Leiber, Patricia Underwood, and
Robert Lee Morris, among other notable and influential industry
leaders.

..Book signings to be held at Steelcase for The American Century
written by Harold Evans and published by Alfred A. Knopf; and at
Tiffany & Co. for Tiffany Jewels written by John Loring and
published by Harry N. Abrams, Inc.

..A breakfast and private viewing of "Fashion on Stage: Couture
for the Broadway Theater, 1910-1955," an exhibit at the Museum of
the City of New York.

..A closing reception will be held at Saks Fifth Avenue.

June Weir, former vice-president, Fairchild Publications and Lisa
Koenigsberg, director, Programs in the Arts and adjunct associate
professor at the School of Continuing and Professional Studies,
will co-direct the conference.

"The American Century: America's Fashion Ascendancy and Its Roots"
is offered under the aegis of the program in appraisal studies in
fine and decorative arts which is a part of The Division of Arts,
Sciences, and Humanities.

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 04:15:05 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 14:14:38 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?

My teenager decided to be a disco ball for Halloween.  I have just finished
sewing a silver tissue-lame skirt and silvering a pair of shoes for her.
She already had the silver sequined tube top, silver sparkle nail polish,
and silver eyelashes.  So tonight we shaved her head, and tomorrow morning
I have to get up real early and glue silver mylar squares all over her
head.  Somehow I got talked into driving her and my other kid, who is
sensibly wearing this year's Ren. Faire stuff, to school.  

At noon Friday, at my college, there is a costume contest with actual cash
prizes.  I will wear my crochet monster-who-carries-me-on-his-shoulders
costume, to which I may add a Wizard coat for the me-part of the costume to
wear.  I have an appointment with my tutor right after the contest.  She's
from Korea, has just seen pictures of some of my old costumes, and can
hardly wait to see what I will do next.  At least she thinks I'm funny and
not crazy.

Saturday I will wear my Lurid-Landsknecht to a party, to a Celtic-rock
concert, then back to the party.  I made this costume for an Austin Powers
party at a small Ren. Faire - 1560's cut, 1960's cloth.  My Sweetie will
wear his 'real' Landsknecht, for contrast.  

On Sunday, actual Halloween, I think I will be wearing old clothes and
painting the bathroom.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 13:19:02 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: History's mysteries
In-Reply-To: <v04011705b43e5a37b993@[172.19.1.106]>
References: <4.1.19991028051810.00b70ea0@pop.slip.net>
 <3.0.3.32.19991028143816.006b2cf0@pop.service.ohio-state.ed u>
 <0.3d51b249.2549ac94@aol.com>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>>That's just sad.  But my teenager might have answered the same.  OTOH, my
>>11-year-old does Living History with me, and will wear her Ren. Faire
>>outfit for Halloween.
>
>I'm jealous.  I can't get my kids to wear their fair outfits for halloween.
>My daughter's quote was, "It's not a costume, Mom.  It's my clothes for
>faire!"

It's a costume now.  My kids' school wouldn't let the kids wear anything
with blue or black or red on a Halloween costume because, in their paranoia
about gang violence, they think it might be gang related.  (Yeah, right.)
So we had to cover her existing blue trim with some other colour.  The
coverup is satin ribbon, that won't pass costume approval, so for now here
Faire clothes are a costume.  Actually it was easy talking her into it.  I
said she could speak in her thick Faire-English accent all day at school,
something I don't let her do at home.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
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     * )   (((((
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From: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <2.2.16.19991028222239.452f2d78@mail2.quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft etc,
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 07:21:35 -0400
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-Poster: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>

> I just checked the Narnia-productions website. There is no
Renaissance
> Wedding page. But there is a link to Richard the Thread's website
for
> costume patterns.
>
> Did anyone send an email to remind them of good business ethics?
Since they
> are in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, United States' laws would
be
> difficult to enforce, although I assume there are reciprical
agreements
> about copyright protections in some treaty or other.

Following is Joan Herron's reply to my message which should answer
your question. I trust that no one is going to get mad at me for how I
communicated to her - obviously it worked.

Eve
(quote begins)

"This matter has been dealt with quite amicably with other authors. I
had some brides who were interested in your info. for Renaissance
weddings they were planning, but all of the information is now
completely eliminated and I will no longer refer them on to you as
requested. The others in your group who cared to discuss the matter
found that I was actually referring many people on to your site and it
was in no way intended to be a copyright
infringement, just a service I was providing for no charge or benefit
to me. I have no interest in your information beyond that and will
continue to refer people on to the people who have requested that I do
so.

Please inform the rest of the people on your list not to contact me
with this request as promptly as your group distributed the
information.

Joan Herron
Narnia Productions

> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Stamper & Eve Harris [mailto:evedave1@netcom.ca]
> Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 4:29 AM
> To: dangelo@ISLANDNET.COM
> Subject: Copyright Theft
>
>
> I've been made aware that your page is full of material stolen from
> other costumers' pages and presented as being under your own
> authorship, including everything from line drawings and text up to
and
> including the entire page format. This is theft. I suggest that you
> take it down now before your web host gets involved.
>
> Eve Harris

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From: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft etc,
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 07:40:25 -0400
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-Poster: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>

Of course, I realize that her reply is basically a form letter and
probably she's been deluged.... just a little early morning
megalomania on my part.

Who else wrote to her?

Eve

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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 07:49:48 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

In a message dated 10/29/99 2:27:31 AM Pacific Daylight Time, kayta@slip.net 
writes:

<< 
 >I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?
  >>
We just had a baby 3 mo ago & my brain seems to have disappeared.  I think 
we'll keep it simple.  My hubby will go as "A Pig in A. Blanket". Pig nose, 
blanket, black socks & thongs for hooves.  We are attending a party w/a 
special category for witches.  Anybody got any ideas.  Endora is already 
taken.  I wouldn't mind some suggestions.

Thanks
Pasha

PS Did I mention the Baby has 3 costumes.  A Bunny, A Pumpkin, & a hugely 
oversized Dinosaur.  Can't miss the photo ops!!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 08:07:05 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 09:21:50 -0400
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

One of these days, I'm going to make a fantasy-spacewoman outfit out of
a bunch of the lurid, lurex, mylar fun fabrics that I never get to use
in my regular sewing.  Y'know, the hologram foils, the shimmery opal
tissues, etc.

But not this year.

A couple years back, I held a "garb out of inappropriate fabrics"
evening, where people came and worked on more-or-less accurate patterns
using very modern fabrics.  We had a poet's shirt out of Pinky & The
Brain cotton print, a long norman T-tunic out of metallic mesh, a gold
lame veil, etc.  It was a lot of fun.

cv
--

The way to draw a girl, I somehow absorbed [as a child], was to draw a
regular person, then add certain signifiers: long hair, a skirt, high
heels, huge curling eyelashes.  I didn't look like that, and there was
something instinctively offensive to me about  overgeneralizing women
merely as a way to differentiate them from "regular" -- i.e. male --
people.  The female is [drawn as] a male with accessories.        --
Alison Bechdel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 08:23:15 1999
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Britcom - Are You Being Served
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 09:21:45 -0400
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

Hardly watch anything but PBS but this is my absolutely most favorite show,
it stands up so well even today. I tape every episode so I'm sure I have
copies, then when nothing is on worth watching I view these again.  So this
year are you going as Mr. Humphries, Miss Brahms, Captain Peacock?  Perhaps
from AYBS Again -- you could go as Mr. Mohlterd!      ; )

Connie Fairchild

> - -Poster: "Steve & Michelle Plumb" <splumb@ic.net>
> 
	"Anybody out there watch the 70s Britcom "Are You Being Served?"

> I've transformed myself into Mrs. Slocombe, right down to the bright
> blue wig and 
> directiore knickers.  Smash hit at last year's party!
> 
> Michelle
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 08:48:40 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Thieving websites: closure
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Hello, everyone.  This is Drea, administrator of the Elizabethan Costuming
Page.  I finally heard back from Narnia Productions, and they said that
they were sorry, no sin was intended, yadda yadda, they'll take my pages
off and would like to link to my site if I'll allow them to.  

I appreciate all the support that this list has
been giving, and all of the copyright/legal info that's been posted; but
as I don't make any money off the ECP, I don't consider it a big enough
deal to pursue. Just a major annoyance.  And given the response of the 
list, I'll bet they've learned their lesson pretty thoroughly by this
time!  :)

Thanks again,

Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 08:49:33 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 10:02:49 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com


I'm glad someone asked this!  I always love to hear what people are 
creating...

For the party I'm going as a saloon girl, nothing too original I know, but I 
did go all out for it.  Made a (laughing moon) corset with shoulder straps 
out of red/black changeable taffeta with tons of beading, fringe and braid on 
it.  A short bustle type over skirt (but no underskirt) with more fringe made 
out of similar taffeta but with velvet flocked designs on it.  And to top it 
off I've got some cute little repro high button boots, a feather boa, a big 
feathery hair thing I got at ren fair and a ton of faux jet beads.  Should be 
fun.

But for Halloween itself I'm going to wear a repo bustle era mourning dress, 
cat eye contacts and vampire fangs and try to scare the stuffing out of the 
trick or treaters.  We're almost done with the tombstones for the front 
yard...

Happy Halloween everyone!

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 08:57:48 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 10:09:52 EDT
Subject: H-COST: A question on Dress Guards
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com

Recently, discussion of Dress Guards came up, and how to properly do them. 
What is a dress guard? Thank you.

Yours,
Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 09:18:43 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: FO:  Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Finally!  I just finished my latest project. It's an Elizabethan kirtle &
doublet. 

The kirtle is of rust-coloured wool/linen, a slightly stretchy fabric. the
bodice is sleevelss, square-necked, laces up the side back, and is cut
like Eleanora de Toledo's gown in Arnold's Patterns of fashion.  The skirt
is 6 yards of the same, stacked box pleats sewn to the waist edge of the
bodice.

I experimented with the pleats--I laid the fabric out, & pleated and
pinned it at the appropriate height so that the selvedge would be the
bottom of the skirt. This left approximately 12 inches between the pleats
and the other end of the fabric.  (It's wide wool). So I sewed the pleats
down, and then turned the remaining fabric to the underside instead of
cutting it off right above the pleats when I stitched it to the bodice.
The extra fabric functions like a bumroll of sorts, making the skirt swell
beautifully away from the waist. Worn over a bumroll, it completely
eliminates the shelf effect and softens the line of the skirt. Don't know
how period it is, but it looks period.  :)

Over the rust-coloured kirtle is a doublet of tawny brushed cotton, with a
slight rib. I based the cut on that of Lettice Knollys' doublet bodice,
for those of you that know the portrait, only there are separate tabs at
the waist instead of one skirting, and single wings at the shoulder
instead of the pickadils.

It has thin bands of rust fabric matching the kirtle for
accents--down the center back, side back and front sides covering the
seams, edging the shoulder tabs, and two vertical bands down the front,
with 22 hand-worked buttonholes in matching rust thread between them.
It buttons up with small brass buttons with a quatrefoil design on them.
It's interlined with heavy wool and lined with pale yellow linen.

The sleeves are slashed open on the outside, accented with the same bands
of fabric as the doublet, and have eight pairs of buttonloops, made
of brown waxed linen cording, going down one side and matching pairs of
brass buttons on the other to button them up, if so desired. They're lined
with the kirtle fabric.

The sleeves fasten to the doublet with points of burgundy silk ribbon,
tipped with small brass aglets.  (well, small brass cylinder beads
hammered flat--but they work!)  

All I have left to do is make a matching toque hat to wear with it, and
I'm set.

Now I can start on that silk satin & cloth of gold kirtle...

Drea


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 09:20:28 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 10:30:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: A question on Dress Guards
In-Reply-To: <0.3af90f3d.254b04b0@aol.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


In the 16th century, guards were bands of fabric, either plain or
embroidered/otherwise decorated, that were applied as decoration to
skirts, bodices and sleeves. Some skirts had a guard 8 inches or wider in
contrasting fabric around the bottom.  This helps to stiffen the skirt and
give it more body, and also makes it easier to replace a worn and muddy
hem.

During the earlier 16th century in Germany, it was popular to have several
guards around the bottom section of a skirt, giving a somewhat striped
appearance.  To apply a guard, get a band of fabric of the appropriate
width, embroider it if you have an extra decade or two, and applique it to
the skirt fabric.

Yours,

Drea


 On Fri, 29 Oct 1999 CONNECT@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: CONNECT@aol.com
> 
> Recently, discussion of Dress Guards came up, and how to properly do them. 
> What is a dress guard? Thank you.
> 
> Yours,
> Pattie Rayl
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 09:39:26 1999
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From: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 09:49:45 -0500
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-Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0087_01BF21F2.EE4EB100
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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This is a fun subject.  I decided this year to copy the new Franklin =
Mint doll   " Morgan le Fay ".  My farm name is Camelot and we play off =
the whole King Arthur--Camelot theme.  I even duplicated the head piece =
with amethyst dangle stone and have my brass chalise for spells.

Diane



------=_NextPart_000_0087_01BF21F2.EE4EB100
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is a fun subject.&nbsp; I decided this year to =
copy the=20
new Franklin Mint doll&nbsp;&nbsp; " Morgan le Fay ".&nbsp; My farm name =
is=20
Camelot and we play off the whole King Arthur--Camelot theme.&nbsp; I =
even=20
duplicated the head piece with amethyst dangle stone and have my brass =
chalise=20
for spells.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Diane</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0087_01BF21F2.EE4EB100--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 09:49:40 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 10:01:44 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: FO:  Elizabethan gown
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

*sounds of drool running out of corners of mouth*

Wow! That sounds fab! Is there any chance of getting to see it? 

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 10:12:49 1999
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

I'll try and get pictures of it this weekend.

Drea

On Fri, 29 Oct 1999 seamstrix@juno.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: seamstrix@juno.com
> 
> *sounds of drool running out of corners of mouth*
> 
> Wow! That sounds fab! Is there any chance of getting to see it? 
> 
> Karen
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 10:14:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 07:12:38 -0800
From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>

Captain Wentworth! yes he was in A & E's Ivanhoe also...(BIG CH fan can you tell??)lol. 

yes the WSS was on tnt or tbs one of those just a few days ago, I taped it. 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0780609883/qid=941209789/sr=1-3/002-5075974-6141032

I think that should take you to the info, if not go to Amazon.com and type in Wide Sargasso Sea under video and it will take you there, :) I liked the movie, the costumes were sort of blah, they all looked like 80's prom dresses but it was a cool movie.
---
Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure


>Ciaran Hinds also played the capitan (name escapes me at the moment) in
>Persuasion (the one with Fiona Shaw).  But, there is a movie version of
>Wide Sargasso Sea!  Please! Give me more info.  


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 10:27:25 1999
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 08:28:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>

Also the pictures are not as clear in the republication.  The paper seems
to be less picture friendly. 

Lorene

----------
> From: Michelle <mandrake@mypad.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
> Date: Thursday, October 28, 1999 11:32 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> 
> 
> >This book was re-published last year and is widely available as many
have
> said.
> >Ain't it grand!?
> >
> >Cynthia
> >
> Yeah! Except they raised the price of the stinking thing. Geez, I may
never
> get to own one!
> 
> Michelle
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 10:40:38 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 08:48:06 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

>  So tonight we shaved her head, and tomorrow morning
> I have to get up real early and glue silver mylar squares all over her
> head.

So, are you serious?
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 10:42:59 1999
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From: psychopixie@playful.com
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-Poster: psychopixie@playful.com

Help!  We can't find this book anywhere!  Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble, etc.  are all saying they've never heard of it...   My sweetie wants desperately to get it for me for christmas, and I'd really like it too <grin>

We would be ever so grateful if someone could please let us know where to find this book.

Thank you,

SF


 
> > >This book was re-published last year and is widely available as many have said.


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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 09:12:55 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Did the orginal behind posts behind this actually make it to the h-cost
> list?  I would have to make it a "me three".  The first post I saw appears
> to have been at least the 5th given the responses left on it.

I no longer have the original post.  But I can say this.  I forwarded it to the
Historical Costume list having recognized many of the websites to belonging to
friends.  Several have taken action, some of their stuff has been removed
already; the company, Narnia Productions, apologized to one already, the
Elizabethan Costuming Page, and has asked for permission to link to it in the
future.  So, things are being taken care of, all over.

Your concern has been most appreciated by the website owners.
Merouda

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 08:56:25 +0000
Subject: Re: H-COST: History Appreciation
Message-ID: <19991029.090440.-451289.0.AnnetteAllen@juno.com>
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-Poster: Annette M Allen <annetteallen@juno.com>

I know we are getting way off topic but I just could not resist.  As a
*generality*, I don't believe that Americans have the sense of history
that I *hear* that Europeans do.  However, that may be changing.

As someone else said, we (on this list) are a skewed population.
IMHO, when you become interested in a historical thing (clothing) or 
period, it is a natural extention to become more interested in history 
generally.

In addition to this list, there are may historical re-enactors in the
U.S.
I realize that the Civil War may not have been that long ago in the 
scheme of things, but it is part of U.S. history.  Then, look at all the
things like the Dickenson Faires and Scottish Highland games that 
are, either more or less, an attempt at historical re-enactment for a 
time that may be previous to U.S. existence.

Then there is the Genealogical craze that is sweeping the U.S., and
perhaps most of the Western World.  I have been fortunate in that my
family has seemingly had this need to pass along family history
since before coming to the U.S.  I identify strongly with history.  It is
my belief that Americans are in a particularly good position to do this
(whether we actually do or not), because we are such a melting pot
from the rest of the world.  I am an American, but I am also Scottish,
English, Prussian, Welsh, Danish, Celtic, and etc.  Much of U.S. 
history came about *because* of World history.

Okay, end of SoapBox!

-Annette



___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 11:00:38 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 12:10:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
In-Reply-To: <99102911495247.19660@webb2.iname.net>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Amazon.co.uk sells it.

Drea

On Fri, 29 Oct 1999 psychopixie@playful.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: psychopixie@playful.com
> 
> Help!  We can't find this book anywhere!  Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble, etc.  are all saying they've never heard of it...   My sweetie wants desperately to get it for me for christmas, and I'd really like it too <grin>
> 
> We would be ever so grateful if someone could please let us know where to find this book.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> SF
> 
> 
>  
> > > >This book was re-published last year and is widely available as many have said.
> 
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 11:12:36 1999
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 10:24:11 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>


> Help!  We can't find this book anywhere!  Amazon.com

I found it on Amazon.co.uk (rather than Amazon.com):

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
Janet Arnold 
Our Price: £75.00
Category(ies): History, Arts & Music
Hardcover - 392 pages (December 1988) 
Maney Publishing; ISBN: 0901286206
Availability: We expect to be able to find this title for you within 4-6 
weeks. However, please note that titles occasionally go out of print 
or publishers run out of stock.

Don't know what the current exchange rate is but you're probably 
looking at around $150. If you've purchased from Amazon.com you 
should have no problem with Amazon.co.uk. I've purchased a 
couple of things from them awhile back and shipping costs were 
reasonable.


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 12:35:05 EDT
Subject: H-COST: suggestions please?
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-Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com

I need to make a dress for a Christmas choir program I am in. The specs are 
all black, tea length with long sleeves. We are supposed wear pearls with the 
dress. I would like to make something that is historically based, if not an 
actual recreation. I also request it be an easy to make pattern, as it is 
Christmastime and I have not a lot of spare time left! Any suggestions? (I'll 
be looking up all ideas in my AlterYears catalog as you make them!)

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
So many books, so little time

"Hard work is the accumulation of the easy things you didn't do when you 
should have." 
                -Anonymous

schmitt100@aol.com
**********************
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 12:37:22 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft etc,
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 10/29/99 12:19:29 AM Central Daylight Time, 
joanj@quiknet.com writes:

<< . But there is a link to Richard the Thread's website for
 costume patterns.
  >>

Which is legal.  It also states that it is Richard the Thread's site.  
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 12:40:28 EDT
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 10/29/99 4:28:23 AM Central Daylight Time, kayta@slip.net 
writes:

<< So tonight we shaved her head, and tomorrow morning
 I have to get up real early and glue silver mylar squares all over her
 head.  >>

Really?  It would have been easier to put on the bald wig and glue them to 
it.  I wouldn't shave my hair for a costume.  It just takes to long to regrow 
and all.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 09:46:42 -0700
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> All I have left to do is make a matching toque hat to wear with it, and
> I'm set.

No that is not all you have to do.  You have to *Take Pictures* so we can
drool over this masteriece!!!  ;->

> Now I can start on that silk satin & cloth of gold kirtle...

Aw jeez, I'll never catch up with you.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Just in case you're not sure how to get there... When you get to amazon.com
in the usual way, scroll to the bottom of the screen and there's a link to
amazon.co.uk

Cheers!

MaggiRos

A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net



> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Linda Yordy [SMTP:abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu]
> Sent:	Friday, October 29, 1999 6:24 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
> 
> 
> > Help!  We can't find this book anywhere!  Amazon.com
> 
> I found it on Amazon.co.uk (rather than Amazon.com):
> 
> Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
> Janet Arnold 
> Our Price: £75.00
> Category(ies): History, Arts & Music
> Hardcover - 392 pages (December 1988) 
> Maney Publishing; ISBN: 0901286206
> Availability: We expect to be able to find this title for you within 4-6 
> weeks. However, please note that titles occasionally go out of print 
> or publishers run out of stock.
> 
> Don't know what the current exchange rate is but you're probably 
> looking at around $150. If you've purchased from Amazon.com you 
> should have no problem with Amazon.co.uk. I've purchased a 
> couple of things from them awhile back and shipping costs were 
> reasonable.
> 
> 
> Linda Yordy
> Phone: 208/426-4034
> Boise State University
> Center for Management Development
> 1910 University Drive
> Boise, ID  83725-1660
> ********************************************************
> Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
> directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 12:27:28 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Repro Victorian Garnet Jewelry
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

http://www.classic-jewelry.de/page_necklace-l.htm

A company in Germany that reproduces 1860-1880 style Bohemian garnet
necklaces, earrings, etc.  I haven't bought from them but am thinking
about it.

Fran

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 12:27:29 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>




>-Poster: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>
>
>11:26 Dallas Texas time, there is no site......
>Karma at work?

>> -Poster: Lee Carter <mouse@well.com>
>> 
>> As of October 28, at 9:10pm California time... Narina has changed the
>> website... Links to other people stuff is gone ... I think ... I hope.
>> Look at the new version.


Oh, darn!  I didn't get to see it!
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 12:45:21 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Halloween Costumes
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-Poster: Elizabeth Cummins <henninlady@juno.com>

>I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?"

This poor soul is bypassing Halloween entirely to work on her wedding
gown for December 4. It has officially become my project of doom (I hate
deadlines cast in concrete!).


Elizabeth Cummins
(muttering under her breath, "110 yards of lace on this thing. Oy vey!
*What* was I thinking?!?" )

___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 13:03:27 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 13:17:48 -0500 (CDT)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
In-Reply-To: <v03110702b43ec72fa115@[209.195.12.131]>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> >>>I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?
> 
> My 10 year old son, wants to be a pokemon and we settled on bulbasaur. 

Oh, yeah, I also made a pokemon Charmander costume for a little [cement]
boy (actually a lawn jockey that has been used for verious pranks at my
boyfriend's place of work.)

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 13:04:12 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A question on Dress Guards
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 11:26:29 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>
>In the 16th century, guards were bands of fabric, either plain or
>embroidered/otherwise decorated, that were applied as decoration to
>skirts, bodices and sleeves. Some skirts had a guard 8 inches or wider in
>contrasting fabric around the bottom.
>To apply a guard, get a band of fabric of the appropriate
>width, embroider it if you have an extra decade or two, and applique it to
>the skirt fabric.


It is kinda like applying bias tape around the edge of a blanket. Guards
were used on almost any edge. In JA's, Patterns 3, there are several
pictures of edges of garments.  Some were satin stiched instead of turned
under, like we do today.  Some had guards.
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 13:37:07 1999
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From: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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-Poster: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>


>Help!  We can't find this book anywhere!  Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble, etc.  
>are all saying they've never heard of it...   My sweetie wants desperately 
>to get it for me for christmas, and I'd really like it too <grin>
>
>We would be ever so grateful if someone could please let us know where to 
>find this book.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0901286206/o/qid=941222803/sr=2-1/026-4719248-6521861

This is the direct link to the Amazon.co.uk site where this book is listed 
for sale.

Hope this helps,

Laurellen

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From: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 13:12:21 -0500
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-Poster: Carrie Veenstra <carrie@greateralchemy.net>


------ =_NextPart_000_01BF2214.E1A15440
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
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I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?

Margo


[Carrie Veenstra]  

I'm making a (fantasy -- tudor era-ish) princess and (fantasy- something 
like "puss-in-boots" to my mind) rogue  costumes for a friend's  6 & 4 yr 
olds -- "to match the hats they bought at faire."  + loaning peasant costumes 
to the parents so they coordinate while serving their miniature royalty.  

The princess is EXTREMELY purple rose-patterned velvet, lots of gold trim 
and gold mesh flounces on the overskirt, a white satin underskirt (strewn 
with heartshaped gems) and inner sleeves with a fake fur trimmed hooded 
cape of barely blue pale satin, and her mom will KILL me if she ever finds out how 
much I spent on materials!! (not as much as it sounds, though..  lots of good 
sale table bits)  I have a great time making them, and an even better time 
seeing the kids faces when I ask them to try on something 
I made especially for them -- that is so totally priceless!  I love halloween!

Happy Halloween!
Carrie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 14:03:45 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 12:21:16 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

My 5-year-old son wanted to be "Link" from the "Legend of Zelda" N64 game.
So, I found some inexpensive green doesuede, made him a tunic and hat, a la
Link; then took a piece of cardboard, covered it with a sheet of blue craft
foam, spray painted some felt gold and placed it around the top and bottom
and made a sword sheath; found some brown boots (that he can actually wear
afterwards too) and voila!

Didn't know whether to make him "Child Link" or "Adult Link" but decided to
go with "Adult Link" because he wears a white shirt and leggings under his
tunic (white long johns worked out just great) and it would be better if it
is chilly outside on Halloween.

For Hubby and I, who are attending a pagan celebration tonight, I made him a
black, wool cape (which he wanted) and some loose, baggy black pants to wear
with his knee-high brown suede, lace-up boots.  For me, I made a black,
stretch velvet, close-fitting "gown" with trumpet sleeves lined in a slate
blue satin,  with matching slate blue satin "cincher", black cape with hood
lined in slate blue satin; and found some cool black angel wings at the
local Halloween shop.

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------
-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, October 28, 1999 2:16 PM
Subject: H-COST: Halloween Costumes


>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?
>
>I thought I had gotten off easy, as my 6 yr old wants to be a Ninja (black
>sweats and a hood.  I offered to make a black gi but he declined) and my
>three wants to wear last year's pumpkin suit again.  But of course, these
>nice friends offered us their unused bunk beds and Silly Me just had to
>volunteer custom Halloween costumes in trade.  So, I've just finished a
>Batman and a tiny bride.
>
>I had a blast doing the bride costume.  I had an old, gaudy bridal gown
that
>was way out of style.  An Ebay check told me I probably couldn't get more
>than $40 for it, so I ripped it apart and used it to make the costume.  Hot
>glue, Elmer's, fray check, and unfinished seams;  what a nice break from my
>usual meticulous work, and a pile of satin and beaded lace left over to
make
>bridal shower gifts.
>
>So what are YOU making?
>
>Margo

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 14:06:13 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 12:22:42 -0700
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Don't know, but it sounds really cool!!!

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------
-----Original Message-----
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, October 28, 1999 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes


>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?
>> So what are YOU making?
>
>Well, having worn it already...  There's an annual party in my crowd always
the
>Saturday before Halloween.
>
>I did not bother to do anything meticulously on this.  Not at all.  30
minutes
>tops for the garments.  Two layers of sheer poly chiffon, one a t-tunic
with
>long sleeves, the outer layer t-tunic with no sleeves.  A huge veil with a
hole
>cut for my face in the same sheer, so I have wimple and veil together.
Sheer
>gloves (with holes cut for my fingers, none of that finished stuff for me)
with
>long hangy jagged bits.  A crown of bones (about 6" high) swathed with....
>sheer.  Long wired bits with mylar stars and spikes stuck into the crown
(this
>thing is high)  Under all that sheer a white sheath for modesty.  My spiky
>tattoo on my arm showed through and I took a midnight blue eyeliner pencil
and
>drew a scrolled and spikey tattoo on the left side of my face.  Dark dark
>eyeshadow, the whole thing brushed over with silver, just enough for *pow*
but
>sheer enough for all the stuff under neath to show through.  So, what was
I????
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 15:30:35 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 15:42:49 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Mayfair13a@aol.com wrote:
> 
<snip>  We are attending a party w/a special category for witches. 
> Anybody got any ideas.  Endora is already taken.  I wouldn't mind some
> suggestions.

Hmmmm, there's the old standby of Glenda bu-ut... how about Sybil Leek? 
She was British but moved to America (in the 60's I believe)... a
walking suit with a big black cape for her... or Diane Tregarde, the
Witch detective/troubleshooter in the books by Mercedes Lackey... for
her you need a black leotard, jeans with a crotch gusset (she's a black
belt in martial arts) and boots... you could go as one of the 'witches'
from the Witch Trials of either America or Europe which covers a fairly
lengthy period... any of the witches from "Halloween Town" that was on
Disney... actually Disney has had a fair number of witches... you could
go as Sabrina or one of her relatives... take a gander on the Internet
for those Wiccans/Pagans who have pics of themselves on their site (mine
doesn't! <grin>) or failing all else... you could go as *me* (she smiles
while wearing her "Witch & Famous" shirt) with red hair and wear a silk
top & silk or linen pants/skirt.

Kat
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 16:45:53 -0400
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>


> - -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> I'm just curious, what's everyone working on for Halloween?

<maniacal giggle entered here...>

Um, I've been doing a marathon stitching stint for my son's costume (the
1 yo's just gonna have to wear the cheerleader outfit someone gave us).

The good news is that he decided that he liked Peter Pan, Robin Hood and
Annais Skywalker costumes the most (nope, of all those, he's only seen
Peter Pan before this week).  Then he saw a nerf bow & arrow set at The
Disney Store...so Robin Hood it is.

The bad news...of course, I saw it as an SCA garb making opportunity...
Could have done it for under $15, and in just a couple of days (hey, I
can't get anything done till after 10pm, if I'm lucky...and if I get too
tired, things go really wrong).  I *think* the total's up around $35 or
so...all fabric was on sale.  Let's see... got a shortcut t-tunicish
shirt done (gathered the sleeves at the wrists, put in 4 eyelets on
either side of the top, to get that 2 Xs look that people will
recognize...nope it's not gonna be done that way, if not for
Halloween).  Jerkin out of suedecloth...thinking about doing an after
the fact interface job on it, but for now it'll be ok...skipped eyelets,
belt'll hold it together...or at least on.  Searched the mall for a
brown belt...finally found one, unfortunately it's got a metal loop, but
it'll do for now.  Searched for stretch pants of a passable brown or
green....no luck.  Made green pants.

Then the big ticket item.  Cloak to actually stay warm with (I'm now
claiming the 70+ temps forecast for this weekend to be my fault...if I
hadn't decided to do a "real" cloak, it'd be cold :-)  2 layers of heavy
flannel (brown is too light colored, but it was the best I could do
after searching 3 stores).  Center layer of waterresistant nylon...the
flannel wasn't as heavy as chamois flannel, and stuck to each other too
much.  Besides, this'll cut the wind and make it warmer.

Then I spent the time and effort to figure out how to construct the
cloak so that not only could he choose to wear either the dark green or
light brown side out, but so that I could flip it "inside out" and get
that nylon on the top (it's a neat green with a touch of blue)...for
temporary raingear, or a warmer cloak...so it's not "period"...who cares
:-)

Did it...

Now, tonight I've got to make up the hood part.  Don't have a
pattern...well, for the hood and for a cowl...see about combining the
lower part of the one with the other...though I know I'll have to alter
the hood too.  Oh, and he insists on a "Robin Hood hat"...but without a
feather...so I've got to zip that up, too...good thing interfacing's on
sale, I can use the leftover from the shirt.

Sigh...I've got the oddest combination of quick, durable, "period" and
fantasy going on in my dining room right now...

And the worst part of it is that as I made a bit of an error in the
length of my underskirt (about 3/4 inch too long...trip on it about 2x
an hour), and another in forgetting to fit the Irish dress over the
chemise..without the bra, *He's* going to have a choice of two
pieces/types of garb to wear to events before I do.  *And* I've got to
get the alterations done to the other outfit by the end of November,
since I've got to wear it in the beginning of December.

On the bright side...my son (he's only 3) picked out *all* the colors
for his costume...and they work!  I only gave him color types, and the
fabric he had to choose from and he picked the actual bolts.  Definitely
hope this continues...I'm not great at making color combos at the store,
myself.


-Elisabeth (the sleep deprived)
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

>
> Mayfair13a@aol.com wrote:
> >
> <snip>  We are attending a party w/a special category for witches.
> > Anybody got any ideas.  Endora is already taken.  I wouldn't mind some
> > suggestions.

  And there are MacBeth's witches, and of course Morgan le Fay...
... and Terry Pratchett's Wyrd Sisters - Granny Weatherwax, tall. skinny,
traditional
except that she has never been able to grow a wart: Nanny Ogg, short, plump,
outlived 4 husbands, likes to drink and sing the Hedgehog Song; and Magrat
Garlick, skinny, frizzy-haired, much addicted to all the "new age" ways and
clanking with "occult" jewelry......

 Happy Haunting!
    Liadain

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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 14:45:25 -0700
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From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com
>We are attending a party w/a
>special category for witches.  Anybody got any ideas.  Endora is already
>taken.  I wouldn't mind some suggestions.

Of course, there's always Lola from "Damn Yankees", ably played on 
stage and in the movie by leggy Gwen Verdun. And it's a good excuse 
to wear the fishnet stockings recently under discussion.

Lilinah

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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Since I live in a "hotbed" of history, Colonial on upwards, I'm used to
seeing tour groups, living history sites, re-enactors, etc. all the
time.  I'd say the Boston MA, USA area is fairly well comfortable with
its historical nature.  There's quite a few development sites that now
have archeological teams checking for artifacts before major upheaval
takes place, for a good example.  We also tend to recycle/restore our
old buildings, rather than automatically tear them down.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 17:11:57 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

How about something from the 20's.  Folkwear has #257 Twenties Day
Dress, and I've seen one ina major pattern company's book, maybe the
retro section, that's fancier, lace overdress, satin slip.  Both pretty
quick and easy.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Another witch I thought of is the character in _The Witch and the
Wombat_ but I can't remember the author... it has the most glorious
silver w/black celestial print dress (w/ high collar, form fitting) on
the cover... oh yeah, and she has a staff in one hand and is carrying a
wombat with glasses under her arm.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 18:05:50 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

What about the Wicked Witch Of the East?  Or, if you really want to go to
town (and probably not this year, if you're sane) Glinda the Good?

Margo
(whose six year old has been begging her to make the Glinda dress to wear
when she volunteers at his school)


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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

How about the witch in The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe? Long sleevelss
gown and, oh gosh, I can see the Pauline Baynes illustration in my head, but
I can't rmember the details.  I know she has a very very tall very spiky
crown.

Always winter and never Christmas!


MaggiRos




A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net

Leap, and the net will appear.
	--Orson Wells

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Kat & Kent [SMTP:kdyer@home.com]
> Sent:	Friday, October 29, 1999 11:50 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	Re: H-COST: Halloween Costumes
> 
> 
> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> 
> Another witch I thought of is the character in _The Witch and the
> Wombat_ but I can't remember the author... it has the most glorious
> silver w/black celestial print dress (w/ high collar, form fitting) on
> the cover... oh yeah, and she has a staff in one hand and is carrying a
> wombat with glasses under her arm.
> 
> Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 20:11:21 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 18:23:44 -0700
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From: Catherine Keegan <keegan@mcn.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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-Poster: Catherine Keegan <keegan@mcn.org>

Lacis still had a few copies when I was there a couple of weeks ago.  I
don't have their phone number handy, but information in the 510 area code
should solve that problem.  The price has gone up to somewhere in the $200
range.  

Lacis also has a website: www.lacis.com  

Good luck!

At 11:48 AM 10/29/99 PDT, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>
>
>
>>Help!  We can't find this book anywhere!  Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble, etc.  
>>are all saying they've never heard of it...   My sweetie wants desperately 
>>to get it for me for christmas, and I'd really like it too <grin>
>>
>>We would be ever so grateful if someone could please let us know where to 
>>find this book.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 20:19:46 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Sally's Calendars...2000!
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 18:33:06 -0700
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Sally,

I just gotta say the Y2K calendars you have is just *awesome*!  even though
I am mostly interested in costuming mid 1600's and earlier, I *love* the
garments that you have in this calendar. *MDF* (Major Drooling Fest)

I'm inspired to try to re-create a couple of them, just for the fun of
it...Plus I have a Band Booster Auction (the theme is "Back to the Future",
a tempting theme for me to try something new) and of course my 25 year
reunion coming up in 2000 (yeeks!  ye gads, am I really that old! *sigh*).
Since I've stayed in touch with some of my former classmates, they know to
expect something...um...unusual *grin*.

I wore one of my Italian Ren gowns to work today; just one of my plainer
ones.  It's a beigy tan linen with the usual articulated sleeves tied on and
the skirt is cartridge pleated onto the bodice with a round neck and that
laces up the front.  The chemise is white linen, gathered into a band at the
neck and sleeves.  My co-workers who've seen me 'dress for Halloween' over
the years were used to this, but the new faculty and administrator were just
blown away!  The reactions were very dramatic and we all got a great laugh
about it.  I can't imagine what the reactions would ave been if had worn my
velvet gown

*LOL*  This was just great fun!

Anyway, Sally, keep up the great work!

Gia/Giacinta

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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft etc,
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 19:08:25 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

I didn't write to her, I went straight to the top & wrote the webhost.  He 
sent me a very courteous reply and said that he would need more contact with 
the various people who were plaigarised (sp?) but if the allegations were 
correct, the site would be terminated if she refused to take the offending 
material off.  I would be glad to forward his message, which states their 
policy on the subject of copyright infringement, if anyone is interested, 
just for the info.

Susannah


>From: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Theft etc,
>Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 07:40:25 -0400
>
>
>-Poster: "David Stamper & Eve Harris" <evedave1@netcom.ca>
>
>Of course, I realize that her reply is basically a form letter and
>probably she's been deluged.... just a little early morning
>megalomania on my part.
>
>Who else wrote to her?
>
>Eve
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 21:04:52 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Turn of the century clothing
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 19:19:57 PDT
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

This was originally sent in by me, and the company was the one who still 
provides c. 1915 -1920s corsets for my grandmother, in her late 80s.  Now, 
of course I cannot find the pamphlet that she sent me, but I remember it is 
in New York state.  Sorry I missed this post until now.  If you saw my post 
about the turn of the century store stock, there are plenty of c. 1900s - 
1930s corsets of this type in the inventory.  If you are really interested, 
let me know.  Meanwhile, I'll keep looking for the corset company pamphlet 
Grandmother sent me.

Susannah



>A while back -- several months at least -- there was a discussion about a
>corset maker back east who might still make the early century corsets.
>The pink/peach one that goes from under the breasts to the hips.  Did
>anyone ever contact them and did you get a response?
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 21:33:03 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 22:47:00 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: suggestions please?
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 10/29/99 11:07:49 AM Mountain Daylight Time, 
Schmitt100@aol.com writes:

<< . We are supposed wear pearls with the 
 dress. I would like to make something that is historically based, if not an 
 actual recreation >>

Howabout 1920's, drop waist, handkerchief hem?  Cheryl 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 21:51:17 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 22:04:00 -0500
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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Subject: H-COST: status - Arnold's Queen Liz...
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Here's what I've found out thus far:

Green Duck usually carries it; they are out of stock, their supplier is
waiting for another printing, and the ship date is "indefinite"; they
are to notify me if and when they receive more

Amazon.co.uk has the book listed as "4-6 weeks additional delivery";
this tells me that they have to order it from the publisher or other
supplier; I've written to them asking if they can indeed get this book;
awaiting reply

Lacis finds the book if you do a search for it; however, the books page
that the search links to doesn't list it; I've written asking if it is
in stock; awaiting reply

Alter Years; I called and they don't have it

Thanks to all who have helped to point me to this book.  If anyone has
any other sources please let us know.  If and when I find any I'll let
the list know.  I have a customer wanting a copy so in this case I
actually make money for finding a copy rather than spend lots of my
own.  :-)  [Got my *biggie* for the year -- a copy of Schuette's
embroidery book for US$175!]

--Charlene

--
Plan to be spontaneous tomorrow.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 21:55:40 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 19:12:44 -0700
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: disco ball 'haircut'
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>>  So tonight we shaved her head, and tomorrow morning
>> I have to get up real early and glue silver mylar squares all over her
>> head.

>So, are you serious?

and

>Really?  It would have been easier to put on the bald wig and glue them to 
>it.  I wouldn't shave my hair for a costume.  It just takes to long to regrow 
>and all.

Yep.  We shaved 1/4 inch off of the 1/2 inch of hair she had, then I spent
an hour with spirit gum this morning gluing on those squares.  She was
delighted.  As it happened, the spirit gum stuck to the hair, not to her
head, because her hair was so short that it was very springy.  But it did
stick tight, and I don't think any squares fell off till she took off the
tube top a little while ago.

I figure hair is a 'renewable resource', and both the hair and the idea of
shaving it were hers, so why not?  I am really liberal about what I let her
do with her hair, and she gets a teenage kick out of getting away with
things.  So if that's the worst of her rebellion against authority, I count
my blessings. 


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 22:14:28 1999
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From: Elizabeth Lear <eliz@indra.com>
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-Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>

Our friend's party is themed "second childhood", so we sort of went
the easy route: my fiance' is wearing flannel pjs and I'm going as his
teddy bear (I'm 5'4", he's 6'5").  But that idea, of course, meant I
had to go and buy fake fur last night, cut it out before I went to
bed, then tonight I sewed up a big long-sleeved tunic, leggings,
mittens, and slippers.  For the ears, I recycled my Winnie the Pooh
ears (a long-ago costume) and covered them in the new fur.  They're
sewn onto a headband for easy wear.  I have a large gold ribbon to tie
around my neck.

But the real fun is that my friend isn't expecting us.  I've cleared
it with her husband, and it'll be a real surprise for her: we live in
Boston and they live in Toronto!  But we got an *incredibly* cheap
airfare and we're going up for the weekend.  

						...eliz

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 22:42:01 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 23:55:58 -0700
From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
Organization: Red Dragon Enterprises
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To: h-costume@indra.com, Cheryldee@aol.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Czarist Russian Uniforms
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>

Cheryldee@aol.com wrote:

> Can anyone help me?  My theatre is doing a production of Checkhov's Three
> Sisters and the deal that I have arranged to rent the uniforms from New York
> has fallen through.  If you work for a costume rental house or if you're a
> employed by a theatre and might have them in your stock, I would be
> interested in hearing from you.  Recreating uniforms accurately is a royal
> pain and I'm dealing with a shop full of poorly skilled students and a
> deadline that is rapidly approaching (Nov. 24).  

Sorry for the delay but a trip to Ireland and the the backlog is slowly
getting done.

Anyway... Since you do not mention a specific period.. For early 19th
century and some earlier see if you can find a copy of the catalog for
"Nicholas & Alexandre: The Last Imperial Family of Tsarist Family." by
Booth-Clibbon, ISBN 1-86154-038-8, 1998
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 23:11:41 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 21:07:11 -0700
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Since so many people have asked for it and Ihappened to save it, here's
Merouda's original forward message from An Tir's Cathedral steps.

Carolyn

Merouda the True of Beaumaris wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> While the links aren't all correct if you go to the home page for
> www.narnia-productions.com and then go to Shakespearean Wedding you will find
> that the accusations are true.  Drea, I hope you plan on taking action on
> this!  Cynthia
> 
> > ----- Forwarded message from Robert J Welenc -----
> >
> > Forwarded with permission.
> > Lady Karen Larsdatter, Deputy KMoAS for Atlantia writes:
> >
> > >So I says to myself ... "SELF!!  There's some free time between now
> > and
> > >5:00; let's go looking for links for the MoAS site."
> > >
> > >So I look for new pages under some keywords that I like to use.
> > >
> > >And I find a website.  Really interesting company in Canada, telling
> > me
> > >that they're awfully knowledgeable at event productions.
> > >http://www.narnia-productions.com
> > >
> > >And I use the little search window at the top to find information
> > about
> > >their packages for "A Shakespearean Wedding."  Because, y'know,
> > >sometimes information for themed weddings can be humorous.
> > >
> > >And they've even got some interesting articles at the bottom of the
> > >page.  Like, for example, the "Information and Patterns - Coifs"
> > >(http://www.narnia-productions.com/1500's2.html).
> > >
> > >So I click on that.  And I says to myself, "SELF!!  This looks
> > mighty
> > >familiar."  And I go to my friend Drea's page -- you know Drea, she
> > >does that wonderful Elizabethan Costuming page -- and lo and behold,
> > it
> > >looks an awful lot like the coif pages I'd sent her some pictures
> > for a
> > >coupla' years ago
> > >(http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/headwear/coif.html and
> > >http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/headwear/coifmake.html).
> > >
> > >Well, that's mighty interesting.
> > >
> > >Narnia Productions sells theatrical make-up and books and that sort
> > of
> > >thing.  So, naturally, I'm awfully interested to read their article
> > on
> > >"Make Up Techniques of the 16th Century," especially since I'm
> > slowly
> > >working on a page of links on period cosmetics for the MoAS site
> > >(http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/topics/cosm.htm), and the only other
> > page
> > >I know of that has period cosmetics for that part of history is
> > another
> > >one of Drea's pages -- the "Elizabethan Make-Up 101"
> > >(http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/makeup.html).
> > >
> > >So I look at Narnia Productions' site at
> > >http://www.narnia-productions.com/1500'smu.html and darn if it ain't
> > >familiar ... except for the photograph being on the other side of
> > the
> > >page.  Plus, an additional page, which shows you which of their
> > >products you should buy for that Elizabethan look that's all the
> > rage.
> > >
> > >Zowie, I think I'm beginning to notice a trend.
> > >
> > >Their page on blackwork
> > >(http://www.narnia-productions.com/blackwork.html) seems awfully
> > >similar to content at the Blackwork Embroidery Archives
> > >(http://www.pacificnet.net/~pmarmor/bwarch.html).  And their page on
> > >stays (http://www.narnia-productions.com/1500's1.html) sure doesn't
> > >credit Caroline Vincent, but it looks an awful lot like one of her
> > >pages (http://www.vincents.demon.co.uk/stays/stays.htm).
> > >
> > >I've emailed Drea and PK Marmor and Catherine Vincent but haven't
> > heard
> > >back from 'em yet ... but this wouldn't be the first time I've seen
> > >this sort of thing happen *without* the original author's
> > permission.
> > >
> > >I just get so angry when it does ...
> >
> > [Alanna's note:  this is more than angry-making -- this is copyright
> > theft, and legally actionable.]
> >
> > >The main page for the Elizabethan section says, "You may be planning
> > to
> > >recreate the 16th Century with a beautiful Renaissance Wedding or
> > >Event. You might be capitalizing on the popularity of the
> > Elizabethan
> > >Era by staging a play set in the 1500's. In any case, we have
> > gathered
> > >the information and resources you'll need to create authenticity.
> > >We are featuring the tips and techniques, including patterns and
> > >step-by-step makeup procedure, in an attempt to create a
> > comprehensive
> > >overview of the period. You will find the supplies you require,
> > >including the wigs and makeup and some great links to other sites.
> > So
> > >read on- have a Wonderful Production, a Unique Wedding or
> > Renaissance
> > >Event and please let us know if you need any further assistance.
> > We're
> > >full of good ideas!"
> > >
> > >I sure am tempted to ask them about the coif that it says right
> > there
> > >on the webpage that they've made ... or their lovely (but awfully
> > >familiar) blackwork designs ... ;)
> > >
> > >Karen
> >
> > One also wonders if they have the permission of the heirs of C. S.
> > Lewis to use the name 'Narnia'...
> >
> > Alanna Volchevo Lesa
> > Partan Herald
> >
> > ----- End of forwarded message from Robert J Welenc -----
> >
> > --
> >       Conflict checker to knaves, knights, kings, and all between.
> 
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir
> 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 23:41:55 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 10:24 AM 10/29/99 -0700, Linda Yordy wrote:
>
>I found it on Amazon.co.uk (rather than Amazon.com):
>
>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
>Janet Arnold 
>Our Price: £75.00
>Category(ies): History, Arts & Music
>Hardcover - 392 pages (December 1988) 
>Maney Publishing; ISBN: 0901286206
>Availability: We expect to be able to find this title for you within 4-6 
>weeks. However, please note that titles occasionally go out of print 
>or publishers run out of stock.
>
>Don't know what the current exchange rate is but you're probably 
>looking at around $150. If you've purchased from Amazon.com you 
>should have no problem with Amazon.co.uk. I've purchased a 
>couple of things from them awhile back and shipping costs were 
>reasonable.

I found a currency converter on the web and changed UK pounds to US dollars.
So... £75 = $123.184, and the £4.95 shipping = $8.13015, for a grand total
of £79.95 = $131.31 (rounded off). Which, if the book can be found for that
price, is a bargain in my mind. I did place an order with Amazon.co.uk, and
will let you know if I actually get it.
Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Oct 29 23:41:59 1999
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 10:24 AM 10/29/99 -0700, Linda Yordy wrote:
>
>I found it on Amazon.co.uk (rather than Amazon.com):
>
>Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
>Janet Arnold 
>Our Price: £75.00
>Category(ies): History, Arts & Music
>Hardcover - 392 pages (December 1988) 
>Maney Publishing; ISBN: 0901286206
>Availability: We expect to be able to find this title for you within 4-6 
>weeks. However, please note that titles occasionally go out of print 
>or publishers run out of stock.
>
>Don't know what the current exchange rate is but you're probably 
>looking at around $150. If you've purchased from Amazon.com you 
>should have no problem with Amazon.co.uk. I've purchased a 
>couple of things from them awhile back and shipping costs were 
>reasonable.

I found a currency converter on the web and changed UK pounds to US dollars.
So... £75 = $123.184, and the £4.95 shipping = $8.13015, for a grand total
of £79.95 = $131.31 (rounded off). Which, if the book can be found for that
price, is a bargain in my mind. I did place an order with Amazon.co.uk, and
will let you know if I actually get it.
Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 00:38:26 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: witches
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 23:00:48 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


How about the Snow Witch in the Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe?

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 00:58:19 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: The Original post[Fwd: H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft and the businesses who indulge in it]]
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 23:26:25 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>
>Since so many people have asked for it and Ihappened to save it, here's
>Merouda's original forward message from An Tir's Cathedral steps.
>
>Carolyn

   Thank you, Carolyn,  I missed a lot of this too somehow and wanted to see
what everyone was talking about.

>> www.narnia-productions.com and then go to Shakespearean Wedding
   There doesn't seem to be a prompt for Shakespearean Weddings anymore. It
wasn't in either list.

>> > >(http://www.narnia-productions.com/1500's2.html).
   This URL wasn't found.  It must have been removed.


>> > >(http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/topics/cosm.htm)
   This is there but it says by Drea at the top.

>> > >http://www.narnia-productions.com/1500'smu.html
   This URL wasn't found. It must be gone too.

>> > >(http://www.narnia-productions.com/blackwork.html) seems awfully
>> > >similar to content at the Blackwork Embroidery Archives
>> > >(http://www.pacificnet.net/~pmarmor/bwarch.html).
   This is there but it is set up a little different. Same fonts and all in
a different order.

>> > >stays (http://www.narnia-productions.com/1500's1.html)
    This URL wasn't found.

  Looks like they just got rid of the 1500's section. Hmm...Just thought I
would give a report.
Michelle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 04:30:57 1999
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 10:23:51 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: disco ball 'haircut'
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19991029154549.00b99800@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

>
>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
>>>  So tonight we shaved her head, and tomorrow morning
>>> I have to get up real early and glue silver mylar squares all over her
>>> head.
>
>>So, are you serious?
>
>and
>
>>Really?  It would have been easier to put on the bald wig and glue them to 
>>it.  I wouldn't shave my hair for a costume.  It just takes to long to regrow 
>>and all.
>
>Yep.  We shaved 1/4 inch off of the 1/2 inch of hair she had, 

>I figure hair is a 'renewable resource', 

1/2 inch of hair is renewable - 2 feet isn't!! :-)

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 05:37:37 1999
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 10:54:48 -0700
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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References: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991029082128.10862B-100000@mercury.physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

The Purple Elephant wrote:
> 
> -Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
> 
> On Thu, 28 Oct 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> >
> > So what are YOU making?
> >
> Nothing! Halloween is not such a big deal here. :-(
Here in the uk either.
I have just finished the last of my orders for this years deadlines (a
rifle officer bridegroom) and am going to spend the weekend cleaning up,
excavating the floor that sort of thing.

I have just worked out I have made over 40 outfits since January which
include 6 wedding dresses, several bridegrooms and a complete wedding
party (all of these historical) 4 Napoleonic uniforms including
Norwegian and German regiments and I designed and made for a modern
play. I even managed to knock up a linen mantua  and a blue and white
chintz pet-en-lair for myself in the odd spare hours I had off for my
re-enacting events.
I start next years work on monday so far I have another 4 different
napoleonic uniforms booked in (one from Israel the first order to come
from my website) and a 1770's bridegroom which should keep me quiet for
a few months. I also want to make myself a fully embroidered and
jewelled court mantua c1740's and a full male dress suit same period for
the other half if I can.

Hey ho I know I've got a hoover here somewhere

Dawn


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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 09:03:26 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sally's Calendars...2000!
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Thanks, Gia, for the MDF (major drool factor) . That is a high compliment 
indeed. Now you can enjoy the year in style. Make sure you tell the 
institutions that you saw their feature in the calendar. It makes them know 
that their efforts are worthwhile!

Now, back to finishing the werewolf costume for my husband to match  
granddaughter's outfit. Too bad we are not attending Al Gore's Costume Bash!

Sally

Costume Calendar Series
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 09:36:44 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Turn of the century clothing
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 10:49:49 -0400
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

I saved the original post.  Here you are:

quote on:
The name of the corset company is:

Cortland Corset Co., Inc.
PO B 546
Cortland, NY  13045
(607) 756-7566

She read this to me from a flyer that is 2 years old, so verify the area
code before you use it.  The model she uses is the "All-In-One"
corselet, which you use with the old garter-type stockings.

quote off:
-----Original Message-----
From: Susannah Eanes <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, October 29, 1999 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Turn of the century clothing


>
>-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>
>This was originally sent in by me, and the company was the one who still
>provides c. 1915 -1920s corsets for my grandmother, in her late 80s.  Now,
>of course I cannot find the pamphlet that she sent me, but I remember it is
>in New York state.  Sorry I missed this post until now.  If you saw my post
>about the turn of the century store stock, there are plenty of c. 1900s -
>1930s corsets of this type in the inventory.  If you are really interested,
>let me know.  Meanwhile, I'll keep looking for the corset company pamphlet
>Grandmother sent me.
>
>Susannah
>
>
>
>>A while back -- several months at least -- there was a discussion about a
>>corset maker back east who might still make the early century corsets.
>>The pink/peach one that goes from under the breasts to the hips.  Did
>>anyone ever contact them and did you get a response?
>>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 10:07:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 11:22:53 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: Czarist Russian Uniforms
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 10/29/99 10:07:32 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
matchlck@erols.com writes:

<< . For early 19th
 century and some earlier see if you can find a copy of the catalog for
 "Nicholas & Alexandre: The Last Imperial Family of Tsarist Family." by
 Booth-Clibbon, ISBN 1-86154-038-8, 1998 >>
 Thanks for the tip.  We have solved most of our problems.  However, the book 
would be useful in our library.  I will forward it to our Librarian.  Cheryl
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 12:10:39 EDT
Subject: H-COST: Theft and the busin...
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 10/30/99 1:14:34 AM Central Daylight Time, 
mandrake@mypad.com writes:

<< 
 >> > >(http://www.narnia-productions.com/blackwork.html) seems awfully
 >> > >similar to content at the Blackwork Embroidery Archives >>

If you scroll down on this page it says that it is from this other site.  It 
gives proper credit.

Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 11:07:50 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Witch Costumes
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

WOW

You guys are terrific!!  Soooo many ideas.  I swear since I had this baby my 
brain has vapored.  My friends tell me it'll return in about 4 months or so!! 
 Thank you all for your ideas.  I think I can come up w/something 
semi-fabulous.  Again, thank you.

Have a Great Time !!!

Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 11:15:32 1999
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 12:30:12 EDT
Subject: Re: H-COST: disco ball 'haircut'
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

In a message dated 10/29/99 8:12:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time, kayta@slip.net 
writes:

<< 
 I figure hair is a 'renewable resource', and both the hair and the idea of
 shaving it were hers, so why not?  I am really liberal about what I let her
 do with her hair, and she gets a teenage kick out of getting away with
 things.  So if that's the worst of her rebellion against authority, I count
 my blessings. 
 
 
 Kayta
  >>
Just a comment on this "hair" issue;

1.  What a cool costume!!  I bet she was adorable.  If I weren't stuck going 
as a witch & I weighed a lot less I might steal your idea.

2.  I started shaving my head when I was 16.  I had a mohawk, a spikey-do, I 
colored it with KoolAid, I dyed it every color under the sun, etc.  I started 
out by cutting off my waist length hair into a perfect DA.  My mom even took 
me to the beauty parlor to do it.  She did lament my hair,  but she was very 
cool.  Now I'm 34, my hair is back to it's original red (with the help of 
Matrix RR7}, It is waist length & my Mom is delighted.  I appreciate my Mom 
letting me be creative.  Even hair 2 feet long does grow back.

Cheers!!
Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 21:04:14 1999
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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9910200924040.7714-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
Subject: H-COST: Corset Fitting Challenge
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 19:18:25 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

I am helping a friend fit a corset for an Elizabethan Era Dress.  She has
had a double masectomy, and needs to have 'pockets' to put her forms in.  We
wondered if we could build a bra into the corset somehow.  Any suggestions?
She plans on closing her chemise or partlet, so there is no concern of
seeing the forms or straps to hold the bra cups up.  Any help would be
appreciated.  Thanks!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 21:04:15 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: Re: H-COST: witches
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

What about one of the many witches from Andre Norton's Witchworld books? My 
memory is foggy here, but I think an SCA-type costume (with appropriate 
jewelry accessories) would be suitable. Or one of the notorious Witches of 
Karres, from James H. Schmitz' book of the same name? Or the biblical Witch 
of Endor, from (IIRC) the days of Solomon?

Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred

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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3817C241.2D237272@flash.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 19:24:04 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

I bought my copy from Amazon DRY GOODS  (NOT AMAZON.com).  This company is
located in Iowa.  It is NOT on the internet.  If you haven't found a copy,
let me know and I will dig up their number.  I remember it being in the $135
range.
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
To: H-Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 8:25 PM
Subject: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd


>
> -Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
>
> Anyone know where one can purchase (new or used) a copy of this book?
>
> Thanks,
> --Charlene
>
> --
> Plan to be spontaneous tomorrow.

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 21:37:04 1999
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From: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3817C241.2D237272@flash.net> <00a701bf2347$014c6fe0$d73d1d26@buck>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 21:50:21 -0500
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-Poster: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>

Their address and phone number however are on the internet. :)

http://www.amazondrygoods.com
AMAZON DRYGOODS
2218 East 11th St.
Davenport, IA 52803-3760 USA
Phone: 1-800-798-7979
info@amazondrygoods.com

They are soooo cool there!! Their answering machine message is too funny!!
:)

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd


>
> -Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
>
> I bought my copy from Amazon DRY GOODS  (NOT AMAZON.com).  This company is
> located in Iowa.  It is NOT on the internet.  If you haven't found a copy,
> let me know and I will dig up their number.  I remember it being in the
$135
> range.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
> To: H-Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 8:25 PM
> Subject: H-COST: Arnold - Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
>
>
> >
> > -Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
> >
> > Anyone know where one can purchase (new or used) a copy of this book?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > --Charlene
> >
> > --
> > Plan to be spontaneous tomorrow.
> >
> >

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Oct 30 22:29:50 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991031021922Z15128-10693+23@smtp1.telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: witches
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 23:46:06 -0400
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

Ooooh!  Don't forget the animated ladies!  The Wicked Queen from Snow White,
Ursula from Little Mermaid and my personal favourite (and scariest--with one
cooool costume imo), Maleficent from Sleeping Beauty!

Former Disney Store cast member,
Kerrie ;-)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 00:42:20 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Corset Fitting Challenge
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 23:10:35 -0700
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

   One of my best friends died 2 years ago. She had her breasts removed a
couple of years before she died  and because of repeat tumors popping up in
her chest area, never got around to getting prostetics.  My 'sister' always
used a couple pairs of her son's socks.  She would put on a bra and stuff it
before she left the house. I realize this is everyday wear and quite a bit
different from what you are asking, but I have an idea.
    How about getting some flesh or peach colored socks and safety pinning
them to the inside of the corset?  Or any color balled up and wrapped with a
nylon stocking?
 I don't think the prostetic 'cookies' can take pinning and using socks
would keep them in place.
Michelle


>-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
>
>I am helping a friend fit a corset for an Elizabethan Era Dress.  She has
>had a double masectomy, and needs to have 'pockets' to put her forms in.
We
>wondered if we could build a bra into the corset somehow.  Any suggestions?
>She plans on closing her chemise or partlet, so there is no concern of
>seeing the forms or straps to hold the bra cups up.  Any help would be
>appreciated.  Thanks!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 00:59:24 1999
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From: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9910200924040.7714-100000@kirk.dnaco.net> <006c01bf2346$3a3fb600$d73d1d26@buck>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Corset Fitting Challenge
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 01:08:25 -0500
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-Poster: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>

I remember that there was a padded roll that is on the inside of the corset
to help with the lifting of our bust and keeping them from sliding down. You
could manipulate this to include something for the enhancements. Drea? You
got any ideas?? :)


Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 9:18 PM
Subject: H-COST: Corset Fitting Challenge

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 01:23:29 1999
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 01:40:12 -0500
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Dean Quackenbush wrote:
> 
> I am helping a friend fit a corset for an Elizabethan Era Dress.  She
> has had a double masectomy, and needs to have 'pockets' to put her
> forms in.  We wondered if we could build a bra into the corset
> somehow.  Any suggestions? She plans on closing her chemise or
> partlet, so there is no concern of seeing the forms or straps to hold
> the bra cups up.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!

I don't know why you would need a bra in it... fit the corset while she
is wearing her regular bra with forms... then add pockets just like the
ones in the bras or swimsuits.  My late grandmother's prosthetic slipped
into a pocket in the bra so you could take it out to wash... and the
pocket is not that difficult to duplicate... because of the way the
corsets are built I don't think there would be any problem with the
corset staying in place with the forms in... do a test run and if there
is a problem add some straps on the side.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 05:57:53 1999
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 07:11:19 -0500
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Surplus clearout of books on ebay
To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

These might be of interest to some of you:

 Traditional Scottish Dyes Book
   http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=191447449

Historical Needlework book
     http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=191447840

  Tudor Women, Queens & Commoners
 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=191448073

Dressed for the Job Book
 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=191448367

Mel
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Subject: Re: H-COST: witches
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-Poster: Wendy Colbert <WendyC@vivid.net>


And how about the Navajo skinwalkers and other indian lore?

Wendy


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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



My Halloween costume this year is just a new set of light up Deely
Boppers.  But this year, they blink red and green.

Not Historical, but definitely Histerical.

Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 09:12:46 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Corset Fitting Challenge
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 10:28:56 -0500
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>I remember that there was a padded roll that is on the inside of the corset
>to help with the lifting of our bust and keeping them from sliding down.
You
>could manipulate this to include something for the enhancements. Drea? You
>got any ideas?? :)


I'm not Drea (although I saw her yesterday), but one thing I might suggest
is a strapped corset with extra-wide straps--these might function to keep in
the prosthetics on more sides, and to partially cover them as well.

Perhaps fitting the lady in a sports bra might also help (are there sports
bras for this purpose?  I'm assuming there are....) If all else fails, she
*could* keep that type of bra on under the corset.

Susan

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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 10:02:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costume
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>

Where, oh, where did you find deely boppers?  It *is* historical (well,
maybe not by the standards of all on this list ;)), I haven't seen them
since my youth!

Emma

> My Halloween costume this year is just a new set of light up Deely
> Boppers.  But this year, they blink red and green.
> 
> Not Historical, but definitely Histerical.
> 
> Russell Hedges
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 10:03:13 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costume
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

*giggle*  *sigh*...what are Deely Boppers?  Must be a historical thing as I
don't remember these things at all!

Gia/Giacinta

>
>Where, oh, where did you find deely boppers?  It *is* historical (well,
>maybe not by the standards of all on this list ;)), I haven't seen them
>since my youth!
>
>Emma
>
>> My Halloween costume this year is just a new set of light up Deely
>> Boppers.  But this year, they blink red and green.
>>
>> Not Historical, but definitely Histerical.
>>
>> Russell Hedges

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Corset Fitting Challenge
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 10/31/99 8:30:08 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
nicolaa@columbus.rr.com writes:

<< Perhaps fitting the lady in a sports bra might also help (are there sports
 bras for this purpose?  I'm assuming there are....) If all else fails, she
 *could* keep that type of bra on under the corset.>> ETc. etc.
 
 I thought that the object of the Elizabethan corset was to flatten the 
breasts out in order to better display the rich fabric of the outer bodice.  
Seems that small breasts or lack of them would be an advantage, almost.  Why 
do anything? Cheryl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 13:08:50 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I agree with Cheryl.  Why go to all the work when the period look is
flat?  kEspecially when the "squished breasts" look is going to be
hidden anyways.  If she's a bit sunken or tender, a bit of velvet pad or
quilting would solve that.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 10/31/99 3:58:37 PM !!!First Boot!!!, 
00217146@bigred.unl.edu writes:

<< Where, oh, where did you find deely boppers?  It *is* historical (well,
 maybe not by the standards of all on this list ;)), I haven't seen them
 since my youth!
 
 Emma >>


Pardon my youth, but what exactly is a deely bopper?

Charles
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

They're  two balls on individual springs attached to a headband.  Look
sort of like bounceing insect eyeballs
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Corset Fitting Challenge
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>I agree with Cheryl.  Why go to all the work when the period look is
>flat?  kEspecially when the "squished breasts" look is going to be
>hidden anyways.  If she's a bit sunken or tender, a bit of velvet pad or
>quilting would solve that.


That same idea had occurred to me.

I think it would depend on the lady herself.  Depending on her shape, it may
simply look "odd" for her to be flat; or she may not be comfortable without
her prostheses. But it might not be a bad idea to pass on that historical
note...

Susan

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Subject: Re: H-COST: disco ball 'haircut'
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>>I figure hair is a 'renewable resource', 
>
>1/2 inch of hair is renewable - 2 feet isn't!! :-)

Doubtless that's why she was willing to do it.  But this is the same kid
who, at age 6 decided she really liked long hair.  We told her she had two
choices:  either she learned to wash and brush it all by herself, or we
would cut it.  So she had beautifully kept waist-length hair by the time
she was 7.  By age 10 she started wanting it shorter and shorter.  Who
knows what she'll want next year.

Non-renewable resource - oh, you must mean like her father, almost totally
bald at age 45.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 15:05:06 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costume
In-Reply-To: <381C988B.1ABCD56@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>They're  two balls on individual springs attached to a headband.  Look
>sort of like bounceing insect eyeballs

or butterflies, or solid colour balls, or eyeball-painted balls, or
whatever the individual manufacturer wanted to put up there.  The idea
keeps recurring because I keep seeing things like this for sale in those
cheezy-cheap 99-cents-for anything places.  Look also at party supply
houses and flea markets/yard sales.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 15:22:44 1999
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 13:30:58 -0800
From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween Costume - Deely Boppers
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>

	
	Well, I haven't found any.
	
	I made a couple of pairs of Deely Boppers.  They don't helix, but are
just antenna that curve forward over my head.  They wiggle nicely when I
move my head though, as Deely Boppers should.

	I too haven't seen a pair of real Deely Boppers in years.  Like most
things, not valued until too late.  Most objects don't survive being old
or out of fashion.  Deely Boppers I think would suffer in particular
from this, being so faddish.


> << Where, oh, where did you find deely boppers?  It *is* historical (well,
>  maybe not by the standards of all on this list ;)), I haven't seen them
>  since my youth!
> 
>  Emma >>
> 

	Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 18:51:58 1999
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 20:06:24 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Corset Fitting Challenge
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com

I guess I'm missing the point, and certainly don't wish to offend anyone 
here. Please pardon my bluntness.

If one has a double masectomy, doesn't that give one nearly the perfect 
Elizabethan silhouette? The only concession to the operation would be higher 
necklines and/or lots of doublets. I think that one could easily get away 
with a low square or round neckline if one had a blackworked partlet similar 
to what Elizabeth is wearing in either the Phoenix or Pelican portrait.

Tudor/Elizabethan and the Roaring Twenties look seem to me be as flat-chested 
as one gets in fastion. Being very full-chested myself, I struggle in vain 
with trying to get the right silhouette. I just don't have the body type for 
it.

Again, your pardon if I've given offense.

Yours,
Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 19:14:26 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Baroque Costumes
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 01:29:41 GMT
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-Poster: ben@hrofi.demon.co.uk

Hi Folks,

If you want a really detailed site on baroque costumes, check out:

http://www.kipar.org/costumes.html

It's just been updated with loads of new information.

Ben
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 19:33:55 1999
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 19:47:00 -0600
From: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
To: cjcannon@libpo.ucdavis.edu, cjcannon@greymists.com
Cc: h-costume@indra.com, susanf@netwiz.net
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Subject: H-COST: Chinese headscarves for men? --update
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-Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>

First of all, my thanks to everyone who sent info on Tang dynasty men's
headwear.  Unfortunately, I didn't get some of the references in time for
interlibrary loan before this weekend, but I will do so in the future.

Instead, I just got all the books on Chinese art that I could find and
looked at what the men had on their heads.

In case people are curious about what I ultimately did:
For the scarf, I decided to go with a 36 inch square out of black silk
georgette.  In some of the illustrations, the fabric appears to be
opaque, in others it looked like fine gauze or chiffon.  I thought the
georgette would be a good compromise.  I put Jim's hair up in a high
ponytail & formed it into a bun (fortunately, his hair comes down past his
shoulderblades, so this was easy.  Next, I tied the scarf at the back of
his head, with adjacent sides together.  I decided not to fold the scarf
in a triangle in the way headscarves are normally tied today because it
is clear from many of the illustrations that there is only one thickness
of fabric over the forehead.  The square was large enough that it left
'ears' sticking out on either side of the knot.  Next, I sort of rolled
the other two ends in and brought them up on opposite sides of his
topknot, and tied the around the topknot.  Finally, I wrapped a
self-fabric tie around the topknot part and tied it again.  (Can't prove
that's what they did, but it looks like there is such a tie in some
illustrations.)  It looked pretty good, if not as tidy as those in some
of the illustrations.  It stayed perfectly all day, and he reported it as
being very comfortable-- in fact, at the end of the day when he changed
back to his normal clothes, he almost forgot to take it off!

I think more research & experimentation is in order, but I believe I am
on the right track.

Sincerely,
Katharine Whisler


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 21:12:24 1999
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 19:36:16 -0800
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From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: H-COST: Elizabethan Puritan suggestions wanted
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

As i have mentioned, i am in a small fair Puritan guild - that is, we 
act at many of the one (and occasionally two) weekend fairs. (i'm 
more brightly dressed Middle Class at the BIG faire).

We've generally been dressing with extreme simplicity, and, as a 
theatrical decision, all in black, although we do know that during 
the Elizabethan period members of Protestant Reformation religious 
groups wore other "sober" colors such as grey and brown.

I am in the process of upgrading my costume, attempting to look 
wealthier, but still "sobre". For theatrical reasons, i will not be 
making an exactly authentic garment. For example, we are frequently 
doused with buckets of water, so i am avoiding wool. After all, we 
are the comic villains at the fairs we work.

I currently wear a high-necked, slightly off-white smock with sleeves 
gathered into cuffs - both neck and cuffs are edged with a small 
amount of lace. My square-necked bodice with peplum, tie-on sleeves, 
and overskirt are medium weight plain black cotton (duck i think), 
while my underskirt is heavier weight black canvas. I wear this over 
a "Spanish Farthingale" (i'm the only one in the guild who wears a 
farthingale). Black knee socks and black shoes on my feet, a coif 
with small lace edging on my head. I have recently replaced my black 
flat cap with a tall black felt hat, a la Pilgrim, but with the 
buckle removed (out of period) - partly to give me more shade from 
the sun, and partly because i'm about 5 feet tall and i look silly in 
such a tall hat.

For a picture of me in costume:
http://www.geocities.com/Broadway/Stage/4233/chron.html
I'm visible in the very last picture on the bottom of the page - i'm 
the one on the left in front of the big tree at Valhalla 98.

Another picture of me is at:
http://www.geocities.com/Broadway/Stage/4233/modesty.html
but not much of my costume is visible.

I haven't seen more than a picture or two in the Elizabethan books i 
have. Since Puritan women dressed rather plainly, i guess they're not 
pretty enough. But since they were often somewhat wealthy, my guild 
master has given me permission to make my costume fancier. I would 
actually like some references to period paintings of known "Puritan" 
women, or written references describing how they dressed.

I want to look richer, yet still look plain, remembering that we get 
locked in the stocks and drubbed with water at least once at nearly 
every fair, and are meant to be a bit foolish, rather than completely 
authentic.

Does anyone have any suggestions for how i can dress up my outfit 
while still remaining "modest"?

Thanks.

Lilinah
aka Modesty "Drive from me all vanity and lies" Thorneycrofte
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 22:28:00 1999
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 22:41:44 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabethan Puritan suggestions wanted
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Your outfit sounds very nice, but unfortunately the Puritan=sober and
plain is not an Elizabethan concept. It really grew as a reaction to
excesses under James and Charles. If you look at portraits of known
Elizabethan Puritans, you will see anything but plain and sober. I mean,
Lettice Knollys and her son Robert Devereux Earl of Essex were both
staunch Puritans who were style-setting peacocks! No plain and sober for
either of them! Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester was also known for his
Puritan stance and once again, bright style setting clothing. The stance
of Puritan meant that they wanted to purify the Anglican Church from
Popish influences, it didn't really indicate much of a lifestyle choice.
They were more worried about scriptural usage than fabric usage. I
realize that this doesn't help you design a recognizably Puritan outfit,
but I hope that you will understand why it may be tricky to find
pictorial representations of Puritans who fit the stereotype. As a matter
of fact, black was a luxury color at the time, so wearing it would have
been unconscionably ostentatious by stereotypically Puritan values. For a
written description of what Puritanical social commentators thought was
horribly wrong with the way Englishmen and women were dressing, check out
Philip Stubbes. But all that really indicates is what people *were*
wearing, and what one curmudgeon didn't like. 

Karen
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 23:16:04 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabethan Puritan suggestions wanted
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Okay, here's a few more Elizabethan Puritans (Precisionists). Just about
anyone of the Sidney family was Puritan, that includes Frances Sidney,
Countess of Sussex, Sir Henry Sidney, Mary Dudley-Lady Sidney (wife of
Henry), Sir Philip Sidney-Poet, Mary Sidney-Countess of Pembroke. Also
you could look for portraits of Sir Henry Hastings-Earl of Huntingdon who
has come down to us with the nickname of 'The Puritan Earl'. 

I took a look thru 'Dynasties' and of the portraits of people whose
religious inclinations I am either familiar with or was indicated in the
description, all black clothing seems to be more typical of Catholics
than of known Puritans. The Browne brothers were noted Recusants
(Catholics) and they chose to be portrayed in a group portrait wearing 3
indentical outfits of black satin with white ruffs. Likewise the Earl and
Countess of Arundel, Catholics, are shown wearing very austere black
clothing with white linen. 

Sir Francis Walsingham was a very staunch Puritan and is shown wearing
all black, but considering his job, he may be using it more for
intimidation and effect than for religious reasons. 


Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 23:10:47 1999
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 23:31:42 -0600
From: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
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-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

Hi all, 

I want to make one of those lovely German slash and puff dress.  But I'm
coming up short on the documentation.  Before I cut the velvet I would
like to have as much information as possible and not rely on a paperdoll
interpretation.

Anyone know of any artists I could look up on the web for portraits? 
What about readily available books?  I have to get cutting pretty
quick-need it complete for Saturday- so ILL is out of the question.

Thanks
Alexandria
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Oct 31 23:18:28 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Repro Victorian Garnet Jewelry
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

In a message dated 10/29/99 9:51:52 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
lavolta@best.com writes:

<< 
 -Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
 
 http://www.classic-jewelry.de/page_necklace-l.htm
 
 A company in Germany that reproduces 1860-1880 style Bohemian garnet
 necklaces, earrings, etc.  I haven't bought from them but am thinking
 about it.
 
 Fran
  >>
Okay,

I punched in this web address & came up with nothing.  Could you please tell 
us the name of the company? I'm not very computer agile.

Thank You So Much

Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 00:49:48 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 01:02:05 -0600
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From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Halloween costume
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

I just had to throw in my experience:

This is the first time since I started working at my company (20 years ago)
that they have allowed us to dress up for Halloween.  Naturally, I was very
happy - until I checked the closet and discovered that almost all of my
"Halloweeny" stuff was now too small (I hate gaining weight!).  (BTW, most
of our costuming is fantasy/Science fiction, so if you don't know the book
or mythology source, it's a mystery.)  Anyway, I decided to bite the bullet
and spend the time to do full vampire makeup and wear my vampire nun.

This is an underskirt of black/gold lace over red taffeta, a purple satin
T-tunic with bat-scalloped hem and bell sleeves, two layers of tabards over
it, one red, one black, a rosary-style belt, and a black lace over gold
lame collar with red jewels.  The headdress is a black hood/wimple with
gold and black bat wings (a la the Flying Nun) and a black net veil.  Add
the vampire makeup and teeth.

Well, everyone was very impressed, especially the ones who don't know I
costume.  The kicker was that almost no-one figured out what the costume
was, and the majority's first guess was "Queen Amidala"!!!  In fact, I won
"Most Beautiful" because they thought that was what I was, even though in
my bit for the judges I blessed them, flashed the fangs, then bit one of
them on the neck!

Go figure.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 02:55:52 1999
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 14:26:09 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: German Slash and puff
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>I want to make one of those lovely German slash and puff dress.  But I'm
>coming up short on the documentation.  Before I cut the velvet I would
>like to have as much information as possible and not rely on a paperdoll
>interpretation.
>
>Anyone know of any artists I could look up on the web for portraits? 

Albrecht Durer and Jost Amman are the best artists.  And search for
Landsknecht on the web.

>What about readily available books?  I have to get cutting pretty
>quick-need it complete for Saturday- so ILL is out of the question.




Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 02:56:00 1999
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 14:24:02 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Elizabethan Puritan suggestions wanted
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>I want to look richer, yet still look plain, remembering that we get 
>locked in the stocks and drubbed with water at least once at nearly 
>every fair, and are meant to be a bit foolish, rather than completely 
>authentic.

The look you are doing, while not strictly period, is monochrome.  So use
more texture and visual interest.  Add those little details which, on
anyone else's garments, would indicate wealth - but do it in black.  Do
some blackwork on your shirt.  Use band or twisted cord trim, in dark grey
or black, on your black garments.  Have visible ribbon ties, using black on
black patterned ribbon.  Use black velvet or one of those black-on-black
woven brocades for something.  Make black/grey changeable taffeta sleeves
and pink them.  Wear an additional garment, like a cape or partlet.  Put
more black feathers in your hat, and make a fancier black hatband.  Wear
patterned black stockings.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 03:06:09 1999
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 01:38:09 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: Dylon for hot water
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I used to be able to get Dylon dye for hot water.  I haven't seen the stuff
for years now, only the cold water version.  Is it still made for hot
water?  If so, where can I get it? 


Kayta
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