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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 09:46:32 +0000
From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I'm curious about just what you Americans do in all these Hallowe'en costumes. Is wearing them to work as some people have mentioned a common practice?
Hallowe'en is not a big deal here in Britain, perhaps because we have Guy Fawkes Day less than a week after. You can buy pumpkins nowadays (turnip lanterns are the traditional British version, but they are harder to carve as I remember from once having tried). I once dressed as a witch for a party (put a black paper cone over the crown of a black straw hat),  but it wasn't a regular event. Some children have latched on to the "trick or treat" business in recent years, but I've never heard of there being any flurry of costume making - I think they just buy masks or use face paint.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: German Slash and puff
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 10:37:38 GMT
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-Poster: ben@hrofi.demon.co.uk

On Sun, 31 Oct 1999 23:31:42 -0600, you wrote:

>
>-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
>
>Hi all, 
>
>I want to make one of those lovely German slash and puff dress.  But I'm
>coming up short on the documentation.  Before I cut the velvet I would
>like to have as much information as possible and not rely on a paperdoll
>interpretation.
>
>Anyone know of any artists I could look up on the web for portraits? 
>What about readily available books?  I have to get cutting pretty
>quick-need it complete for Saturday- so ILL is out of the question.
>
>Thanks
>Alexandria

Try this site:

http://www.landsknecht.com/hall.html

Ben
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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 06:32:51 -0500
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Medieval Laundry
To: "INTERNET:H-fem@onelist.com" <H-fem@onelist.com>
Cc: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Has anyone has any sources or knowledge about 15thC 
laundry (or even general 'medieval' laundry).  I know about laying 
linen on the grass to dry in order to bleach it, but I don't know 
much more...

Mel 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 07:48:10 1999
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From: "Maureen  Brown" <edolen@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: German Slash and puff
Message-Id: <941464798.6539.109@excite.com>
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-Poster: "Maureen  Brown" <edolen@excite.com>

On Sun, 31 Oct 1999 23:31:42 -0600, Alexandria Doyle wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
> 
> Hi all, 
> 
> I want to make one of those lovely German slash and puff dress.  But I'm
> coming up short on the documentation.  Before I cut the velvet I would
> like to have as much information as possible and not rely on a paperdoll
> interpretation.
> 
> Anyone know of any artists I could look up on the web for portraits? 
> What about readily available books?  I have to get cutting pretty
> quick-need it complete for Saturday- so ILL is out of the question.
> 
> Thanks
> Alexandria
>  

Louis Cranach is another good artist for slash and puff.

    --Maureen 




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From: "Maureen  Brown" <edolen@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: German Slash and puff
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-Poster: "Maureen  Brown" <edolen@excite.com>

On Sun, 31 Oct 1999 23:31:42 -0600, Alexandria Doyle wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
> 
> Hi all, 
> 
> I want to make one of those lovely German slash and puff dress.  But I'm
> coming up short on the documentation.  Before I cut the velvet I would
> like to have as much information as possible and not rely on a paperdoll
> interpretation.
> 
> Anyone know of any artists I could look up on the web for portraits? 
> What about readily available books?  I have to get cutting pretty
> quick-need it complete for Saturday- so ILL is out of the question.
> 
> Thanks
> Alexandria
>  


I'm sorry, that should be LUCAS Cranach, not Louis. (I thought that sounded
too French to be right....)

       --Maureen




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 08:07:05 1999
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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 08:19:42 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Halloween here Stateside has been getting bigger and more elaborate as
time goes on. It used to be mostly kids who dressed up, but the
'trick-or-treating' has been going on for quite awhile. Since the 60's,
more adults have gotten into the dress-up part of Halloween and now it's
fairly common for workplaces to have people in costume on Halloween or
the closest day. I went to eat at a restaurant for breakfast yesterday
and all the wait-staff were in costume and they had a box where you could
vote for the costume you liked the best! And decorating your house for
Halloween has gotten bigger. It's almost as big as Christmas. As a kid I
remember that a few cardboard pictures of witches and black cats in the
window and a pumpkin was considered good. Now people have complete
graveyards in their front lawn (I'm not exaggerating!) and lightup ghosts
and stuff. The funniest thing I've seen are three dimensional 'dolls' of
the back half of witches on broomsticks either crashed into telephone
poles or into windows.


Karen

On Mon, 01 Nov 1999 09:46:32 +0000 "KATE M BUNTING"
<K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk> writes:
> 
> -Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> 
> I'm curious about just what you Americans do in all these Hallowe'en 
> costumes. Is wearing them to work as some people have mentioned a 
> common practice?
> Hallowe'en is not a big deal here in Britain, perhaps because we 
> have Guy Fawkes Day less than a week after. You can buy pumpkins 
> nowadays (turnip lanterns are the traditional British version, but 
> they are harder to carve as I remember from once having tried). I 
> once dressed as a witch for a party (put a black paper cone over the 
> crown of a black straw hat),  but it wasn't a regular event. Some 
> children have latched on to the "trick or treat" business in recent 
> years, but I've never heard of there being any flurry of costume 
> making - I think they just buy masks or use face paint.
> 
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Laundry
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> Has anyone has any sources or knowledge about 15thC 
> laundry (or even general 'medieval' laundry).  I know about laying 
> linen on the grass to dry in order to bleach it, but I don't know 
> much more...

I'm in the midst of translating the "Nurnberger Kunstbuch", a 15th
century manuscript dealing with several things, among them cleaning and
processing fabric.

They had several really neat ways to clean fabrics, especially ones which
couldn't be washed with soap and water--egg yolk was actually specified in
more than one recipe, and lye was common. Woad and beech ashes were
specified as the best to make lye from.  They also had an extended
description of how to go about washing all the linen in the nunnery on
washing day, which includes an interesting method of making lye soap.

For ironing fabric, the manuscript mentioned heating a flat, hot
stone and running it over the damp fabric until it was dry.  In case the
fabric could not handle a hot stone, a fresh loaf of bread was another
option.  Altogether, it was really neat.

I'm almost done with the textiles section of the manuscript; when I am,
I'll put it online and post the URL to this list.

Drea

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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 10:24:52 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>> I'm curious about just what you Americans do in all these Hallowe'en 
>> costumes. Is wearing them to work as some people have mentioned a 
>> common practice?

This year, I dressed as Queen Victoria for the Halloween party at work. 
It's become a big thing in the States in the last ten years or so.  We had a 
pumpkin carving contest, costume and skit contest, and costume parade, all 
during work hours.  

At home, we decorated the front yard with pumpkins, a smiling-face wooden 
pumpkin cut-out, a big lit-from-inside plastic pumpkin, and huge amounts
of fake spider webbing draped over all the trees and bushes.  Plus a
tasteful arrangement of Indian corn on the front door.  In past years, 
I've dressed up to hand out candy but I fizzled this year.  

The best neighborhood display is the lady who dresses as a witch, plays 
spooky music and sound effects tapes (you buy them at the store--screams and
moaning, etc.) and has a big black plastic cauldron she fills with
dry ice and stirs.  Many people in our neighorhood replace their
regular outside lights with orange or black bulbs for beggar's night.

My personal favorite costume this year was two little Japanese twins, about 
6 mos. old dressed as pumpkins.  Their mom made the little felt
outfits and pumpkin stem hats and they sat wide eyed in a little red
wagon while their parents took them from house to house getting candy and
snapping pictures.  It was terminally cute!  I wanted to keep them! 

This year there were lots of Darth Mauls, (the entire 8th grade class from a 
local school went as Brittany Spears), princesses, knights, hobo's, etc.
When I asked one young man what he was (he didn't seem to have a costume),
he said he was a "dead rapper."  A guy down the street used to dress from
head to foot in a gorilla costume to hand out candy.  A friend used to 
dress like a scarecrow (face covered, stuffed with straw) and sit outside
all evening propped up on a bale of hay.  When kids (and I) came to the
porch, he'd wait until you were right up close, then jump up. I shriek
more than the kids!  This works because many folks stuff clothes with
straw to make it look like a person--so its sometimes hard to tell if
the scarecrows are people dressed up or not.  You have to see it to
believe it.  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 09:30:10 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Medieval Laundry
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Has anyone has any sources or knowledge about 15thC 
> laundry (or even general 'medieval' laundry).  I know about laying 
> linen on the grass to dry in order to bleach it, but I don't know 
> much more...

There's an interesting book (pamphlet) called The Final Steps by 
Beverly Gordon. (ISBN 0-934026-07-6) which talks about the finishing 
of fabric from early history through medieval and on to late 19th 
Century. In it she discusses bleaching and washing (as these are part 
of finishing, as well as laundry.) You might find something of 
interest there.

Also, check books on women's work, and also social history. Often 
they have descriptions of that sort of thing. Over the years I've 
also seen period paintings of women doing laundry (often as
background figures.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Repro Victorian Garnet Jewelry
References: <0.c179cd41.254e808f@aol.com>
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



> -Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 10/29/99 9:51:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> lavolta@best.com writes:
>
> <<
>  -Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
>
>  http://www.classic-jewelry.de/page_necklace-l.htm
>
>  A company in Germany that reproduces 1860-1880 style Bohemian garnet
>  necklaces, earrings, etc.  I haven't bought from them but am thinking
>  about it.
>
>  Fran
>   >>
> Okay,
>
> I punched in this web address & came up with nothing.  Could you please tell
> us the name of the company? I'm not very computer agile.
>
> Thank You So Much
>
> Pasha
>  _________________________________________________________________
>

They are called Classic Jewelry.  Their main web page is

http://www.classic-jewelry.de

Fran


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 10:34:26 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Halloween costume
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 09:49:56 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>


> costume.  The kicker was that almost no-one figured out what the costume
> was, and the majority's first guess was "Queen Amidala"!!!  In fact, I won
> "Most Beautiful" because they thought that was what I was, even though in
> my bit for the judges I blessed them, flashed the fangs, then bit one of
> them on the neck!

Sandy,

You're not alone. Last night, my son was dressed as a jedi with the jedi
robe and lightsabor. Most people thought he was a vampire!

Heather

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>I haven't seen more than a picture or two in the Elizabethan books i 
>have. Since Puritan women dressed rather plainly, i guess they're not 
>pretty enough. But since they were often somewhat wealthy, my guild 
>master has given me permission to make my costume fancier. I would 
>actually like some references to period paintings of known "Puritan" 
>women, or written references describing how they dressed.
>
>I want to look richer, yet still look plain, remembering that we get 
>locked in the stocks and drubbed with water at least once at nearly 
>every fair, and are meant to be a bit foolish, rather than completely 
>authentic.
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions for how i can dress up my outfit 
>while still remaining "modest"?


When I was designing my costume for Alice Montague, the Queen's Silkwoman, I
decided to dress as a wealthy Puritan.  I don't actually have proof she was
a puritan, but many of the merchant and artisan class that served the Queen
were, and theatrically, it works by giving me a very rich appearance that,
at the same time, is quite diffeent from the noble classes.

As I ran into the same problem with not finding many pictures of Puritan
women, I looked at portraits of men instead.  I found many of them dressed
very richly, but entirely in black and with white body linen.  So, my final
solution was a black linen gown tirmmed with black silky braid and black
embroidered slips, sleeves of black on black embroidered  silk, and a
forepart of black satin, the embroidered silk, and bands of black bobbin
lace.  I wear it with either an Elizabethan tall hat, or a white attifet
with a black veil.  I have a lace standing ruff, but I'm planning a lace
trimmed partlet with small ruff as well.  

Basically, using lots of surface interest and different textures, but all
the same color,  gives the impression of richness without gaudiness.  You
could easily adapt this idea to your needs for water resistance, by your
choice of fabrics and trims. 

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 12:24:22 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>,
        "Kayta Barrows (E-mail)"
	 <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Dylon dye for hot water
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 10:38:41 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>I used to be able to get Dylon dye for hot water.  I haven't seen the stuff
for years now, only the cold water version.  Is it still made for hot
water?  If so, where can I get it? 

How 'bout that. I just bought some.
Since you're in S Silicon Valley:
You should go to JoAnne's in Mt View where the old NY Fabrics was.
Take 101 N, S on San Antonio, you cant turn L at California, so go down & do
a U come back & R on California Ave.  At the next light, JoAnne's is on the
R between Lucky & Beverages-n-More

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: The Original post[Fwd: H-COST: [Fwd: [Cathedral] FWD: Theft a
	nd the businesses who indulge in it]]
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>


>> > >(http://www.narnia-productions.com/blackwork.html) seems awfully
>> > >similar to content at the Blackwork Embroidery Archives
>> > >(http://www.pacificnet.net/~pmarmor/bwarch.html).
   This is there but it is set up a little different. Same fonts and all in
a different order.

In both cases, these are the same work by the same person.  PKMarmor is a
friend as well as my web site designer, and I've let her know about this
stuff.  She's taking it up on her own, and says thanks for the heads-up

Cheers!

MaggiRos


A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 12:54:40 1999
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 02:29:30 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: Hallowe'en costumes in America
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>I'm curious about just what you Americans do in all these Hallowe'en 
>costumes. 

Some of us just use Halloween as an excuse to wear more costumes more
places.  Some enjoy 'freaking the mundanes' - wearing costumes most people
don't understand just to annoy them.  Some use making costumes as a
creative outlet.  Others use wearing them as a way to become someone else
for a while, possibly as an excuse to flirt, drink too much, or otherwise
misbehave, which they wouldn't ordinarily do (MardiGras and other carnivals
are like that, I am told).

I enjoy wearing different clothes, especially top-to-toe historicals,
because my usual t-shirt and jeans choices get boring after 50 weeks.  In
late October I can wear anything I want almost anywhere, and people just
think it's for Halloween.  This includes the stuff from my ethnic
collection and my sarees.  I have a sweater (jersey) I bought because it
had a pattern of skulls and crossbones knitted in it, purple on black, like
a pirate flag.  In the month of October I wear it 'everywhere'.  Other
months I only wear it to San Francisco (where it is always appreciated).


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 14:30:22 -0500
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Medieval Laundry
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

Thanks Drea

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 13:42:45 1999
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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 14:57:19 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Repro Victorian Garnet Jewelry
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

In a message dated 11/1/99 8:06:20 AM Pacific Standard Time, lavolta@best.com 
writes:

<< 
 They are called Classic Jewelry.  Their main web page is
 
 http://www.classic-jewelry.de
 
 Fran
  >>
Attention Everyone,

Fran is evil.  This jewelry is fabulous.  How fortunate for me that my 
birthstone is Garnet!!  

Cheers!!
Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 14:46:32 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s81d6134.028@csv6.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Halloween costumes
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 16:05:00 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Kate,

Here in Richmond, Virginia, Halloween is a very big and the thing to do.  We
have a lot of pumpkin patches and they host a variety of things to do,
hayrides, haunted houses, and picking your pumpkin from the fields.  Many
non-profit organizations host haunted houses.  There are ghost tours of the
cemeteries and many costume contests.  Our county library system hired an
actor to go weekly during October to different libraries and tell ghost
stories. The whole month seems to be a celebration of Halloween.

Halloween has always been my second favorite holiday next to Mardi Gras.
And we do anything to dress up in costume.  I have not made my kids costumes
in years.  We have a giant costume bag and the kids and their friends make
their own costumes from the mixtures of costumes in the bag or they make up
one on their own.  We have had two Halloween parties this year.  I have
three kids with birthdays during this month.  So we throw very big parties,
with bobbing for apples (the girls VS the boys),  pinatas, and egg and water
ballon tosses.  Somehow the tosses always ends up as a boys vs girls war,
eggs and balloons everywhere.  Everyone who comes to the parties HAS to come
in costume.

We always dress the yard and house up for Halloween by Oct. 1st.  We have a
graveyard I made with a grave for every member of our family.  Our family
joke is that the youngest child murdered everyone else and the manner of
death is stated on their graves.  How ever they were murdered is how we
decorate their grave.   Katie was cut up and put in a stew, so we have a
kettle with a bunch of floating eyeballs in water dyed red in front of her
grave.  Fake spider webs, pumpkins, and ghosts are every where.  We have
strobe (sp?) lights all over the yard Halloween night last night.

Our most fun is thinking up a different way every year for the trick or
treaters to get their candy.  One year, I was on the second floor of our
house, and threw the candy out a window (Mardi Gras style).  But before I
would throw the candy, I made the kids back up to our porch rail and one of
my sons (who was underneath the porch) would grab their legs.  At the same
time, I threw a ghost on a rope out the window at them. Another year, we
built a coffin out of a refrigerator box, and one of my sons dressed as a
corpse and handed them the candy.   Last night, I dressed up in a Mardi Gras
costume, and handed out candy and Mardi Gras beads.

A first happened last night.  My son who is in college brought all his
friends over.  They decided to all dress up in costume and take this one
college girl (who looks 14) trick or treating.  They wanted to see if people
would give her candy, thinking that she was a kid.  They had the best time
and the 19 y.o. girl came back with a bag of candy.  They said every house
gave her candy.

We have so much fun with our house at Halloween, we will be decorating our
home and yard for Mardi Gras this year.  We are going to have a big Mardi
Gras party and costumes are required.  I bought all kinds of decorations and
masks when we made our trip home for Mardi Gras last year.  We will be
having our first Mardi Gras tree.  After last year's trip, we each have
pillowcases full of beads, cups and toys from the parades.  So noone will be
leaving the party empty handed.

All is not lost... yes, we are crazy... but all this decorating of our house
has inspired one of my sons to go to college for set and lighting design.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 15:57:21 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 14:13:04 -0800
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Interesting.....I always thought the whole idea of dressing up and "Trick or
Treat", etc. all the other Halloween traditions came from Britain, i.e.
Celtic and pagan traditions...am I way off?

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------
-----Original Message-----
From: KATE M BUNTING <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 1:47 AM
Subject: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes


>
>-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
>
>I'm curious about just what you Americans do in all these Hallowe'en
costumes. Is wearing them to work as some people have mentioned a common
practice?
>Hallowe'en is not a big deal here in Britain, perhaps because we have Guy
Fawkes Day less than a week after. You can buy pumpkins nowadays (turnip
lanterns are the traditional British version, but they are harder to carve
as I remember from once having tried). I once dressed as a witch for a party
(put a black paper cone over the crown of a black straw hat),  but it wasn't
a regular event. Some children have latched on to the "trick or treat"
business in recent years, but I've never heard of there being any flurry of
costume making - I think they just buy masks or use face paint.
>
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 16:11:48 1999
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From: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s81d6134.028@csv6.derby.ac.uk> <01f101bf24ac$c4883960$2a9faccf@e4c2n6>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Halloween costumes
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 15:58:47 -0600
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-Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>

I am glad to know that someone else is as crazy as we are here.  I am in
Texas and my ENTIRE house is decorated Halloween.  Huge spider webs and the
candlabraas all have black candles.  Ghosts are everywhere and the entire
house is wired for Halloween sounds.  Every year we have a huge costume
party and the kids have a costume contest for the best dressed horse
costume. (this is a horse farm).  We always have at least three pintas and
there is everything from candy to games to horse grooming equipment that
might fall out when the pintas are hit.   Christmas gets even crazier.  I
was in a store last year waiting in the check out line when I overheard a
convesation about " THE " place to go a Christmas party and how this place
looked like Santa's workshop and there was a 16 foot live blue spruce
Christmas tree with all animation ornaments but, she did not know the
address.  I turned around and said " do you mean the horse farm ? " and the
reply was " YES ".  I could not believe that it was my own house !!!  I
kindly gave her directions and the date of the party.  After 150
quests----What are a few more ?  The more the merrier and we do have a good
time here.

Diane
----- Original Message -----
From: Penny Ladnier <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 3:05 PM
Subject: H-COST: Re: Halloween costumes


>
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
> Kate,
>
> Here in Richmond, Virginia, Halloween is a very big and the thing to do.
We
> have a lot of pumpkin patches and they host a variety of things to do,
> hayrides, haunted houses, and picking your pumpkin from the fields.  Many
> non-profit organizations host haunted houses.  There are ghost tours of
the
> cemeteries and many costume contests.  Our county library system hired an
> actor to go weekly during October to different libraries and tell ghost
> stories. The whole month seems to be a celebration of Halloween.
>
> Halloween has always been my second favorite holiday next to Mardi Gras.
> And we do anything to dress up in costume.  I have not made my kids
costumes
> in years.  We have a giant costume bag and the kids and their friends make
> their own costumes from the mixtures of costumes in the bag or they make
up
> one on their own.  We have had two Halloween parties this year.  I have
> three kids with birthdays during this month.  So we throw very big
parties,
> with bobbing for apples (the girls VS the boys),  pinatas, and egg and
water
> ballon tosses.  Somehow the tosses always ends up as a boys vs girls war,
> eggs and balloons everywhere.  Everyone who comes to the parties HAS to
come
> in costume.
>
> We always dress the yard and house up for Halloween by Oct. 1st.  We have
a
> graveyard I made with a grave for every member of our family.  Our family
> joke is that the youngest child murdered everyone else and the manner of
> death is stated on their graves.  How ever they were murdered is how we
> decorate their grave.   Katie was cut up and put in a stew, so we have a
> kettle with a bunch of floating eyeballs in water dyed red in front of her
> grave.  Fake spider webs, pumpkins, and ghosts are every where.  We have
> strobe (sp?) lights all over the yard Halloween night last night.
>
> Our most fun is thinking up a different way every year for the trick or
> treaters to get their candy.  One year, I was on the second floor of our
> house, and threw the candy out a window (Mardi Gras style).  But before I
> would throw the candy, I made the kids back up to our porch rail and one
of
> my sons (who was underneath the porch) would grab their legs.  At the same
> time, I threw a ghost on a rope out the window at them. Another year, we
> built a coffin out of a refrigerator box, and one of my sons dressed as a
> corpse and handed them the candy.   Last night, I dressed up in a Mardi
Gras
> costume, and handed out candy and Mardi Gras beads.
>
> A first happened last night.  My son who is in college brought all his
> friends over.  They decided to all dress up in costume and take this one
> college girl (who looks 14) trick or treating.  They wanted to see if
people
> would give her candy, thinking that she was a kid.  They had the best time
> and the 19 y.o. girl came back with a bag of candy.  They said every house
> gave her candy.
>
> We have so much fun with our house at Halloween, we will be decorating our
> home and yard for Mardi Gras this year.  We are going to have a big Mardi
> Gras party and costumes are required.  I bought all kinds of decorations
and
> masks when we made our trip home for Mardi Gras last year.  We will be
> having our first Mardi Gras tree.  After last year's trip, we each have
> pillowcases full of beads, cups and toys from the parades.  So noone will
be
> leaving the party empty handed.
>
> All is not lost... yes, we are crazy... but all this decorating of our
house
> has inspired one of my sons to go to college for set and lighting design.
>
> Later... Penny
> http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 16:25:58 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 14:44:11 -0800 
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

I am unbelievably envious of all of your Halloween activities and
costume-friendly events!  And your costumes sound divine! I was so
disappointed in my Halloween weekend this year...I hope someone will tell me
I'm dead wrong on this one, but San Diego is just not a costume town!  I've
been trying for several months to recruit people for the San Diego
sub-chapter of the ICG and have not gotten an single response.  On the
Saturday night before Halloween, 5 of us went to an Animation Festival in
costume.  Though the MC hauled us on stage for an impromtu contest (where
happily the three costumes I made, including the one I was wearing, one 1st,
2nd, and 3rd place), the entire 45 minutes spent standing in line generated
nothing but skewed glances and snide comments!  Afterwards, we drove through
the Beach bar areas looking for other garbed partiers, and found only one or
two here and there.  The same was true when we drove through one of the more
"flambuoyant" areas of town; very few costumes and apparent costume events
were closing down at 11:30 on a Saturday night.  On Halloween evening, there
were quite a few trick or treaters in my neighborhood, but a good half of
them weren't even in costume!  I know there were a few club activities in
town that our group could have gone to, but I have a feeling I would have
found the same uptight lack of interest in being in costume.  I've gone to
other events this year that were costume events, like the Bloomsday Pub
Crawl, and was one of the very few people in costume!  Someone tell me I'm
wrong!  Someone tell me that I was just in the wrong place at the wrong
time, and that there are other garbaholics out there in my town just looking
for the perfect excuse to dress up!
 
Heidi
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 16:38:17 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 16:53:15 -0600
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Subject: Re: H-COST:Halloween Costumes Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 14:44:11 -0800
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Nashville is FULL of costumed folx... and folx wear halloween related
clothing for a good two weeks beforehand!

Kat
whose kids trick or treated Friday, Saturday AND Sunday!! <grin>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 18:34:19 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 18:54:10 -0600
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

> >
> >I'm curious about just what you Americans do in all these Hallowe'en
> costumes. Is wearing them to work as some people have mentioned a common
> practice?

My oldest son works in a Barns & Noble Cafe/Coffee Shop. He'd been telling
me all week about the woman that works with him, who sews real well, and
was making them all costumes. He wouldn't tell me what it was, but he was
real excited about it. We (the rest of the family - me, Dad and his 3
brothers) went to the Cafe Sunday evening.......it was so funny....he was a
Wench! 

He really looked like a woman (until he spoke, of course). This woman was
making all the ladies dresses so he just had her make him one, too, so they
were all Wenches. He was a hit!

Wearing costumes to work, well, I couldn't because I teach in a High School
and they don't want anyone to influence the kids, so I just wore my black
and crystals:-)  But everyone at the shopping strip was dressed up and kids
were Trick-or-treating the strip. It's a safe, fun Halloween activity.

Amanda
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Samhain (OT) (was: Hallowe'en costumes)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 20:14:19 -0500
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Mabel
----- Original Message -----=20
Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 5:13 PM
>> -Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
>>
>> Interesting.....I always thought the whole idea of dressing up and =
"Trick or
>> Treat", etc. all the other Halloween traditions came from Britain, =
i.e.
>> Celtic and pagan traditions...am I way off?

Celtic yes.....and technically Britain, but more specifically, Ireland!  =
=3D)

My father, who spent his early years in Ireland in the 1920's, used to =
tell fun stories of  turnip carvings and bonfires and things that go =
bump in the night. Samhain was the pre-Christian "New Year's Eve", when =
it was believed that the spirits of the dead could re-enter the world of =
the living. =20

When Catholicism first took hold in Ireland the Church Christianised =
some pagan rituals to try to make the faith more appealing to the =
natives.  Samhain was transformed into a holy day to honour the Catholic =
saints, the Eve of All Saints or All Hallows. The church maintained that =
the spirits and deities originally glorified on this day were actually =
evil beings, hence the modern-day association with daemons, witchcraft & =
goblins, as well as symbols of the dead like ghosts and skeletons. =20

(Of course Dad wasn't old enough to remember all this personally, he =
just had fun spreading the lore, as do I!   :-) )

Cheers!
Kerrie (font of folklore)

------=_NextPart_000_0039_01BF24A5.ADEF2D00
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Mabel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"">
<DIV align=3Dleft>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message -----=20
<DIV>Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 5:13 PM</DIV>
<DIV>&gt;&gt; -Poster: "Broneske" &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:unicorn@softcom.net">unicorn@softcom.net</A>&gt;<BR>&gt;&g=
t;<BR>&gt;&gt;=20
Interesting.....I always thought the whole idea of dressing up and =
"Trick=20
or<BR>&gt;&gt; Treat", etc. all the other Halloween traditions came from =

Britain, i.e.<BR>&gt;&gt; Celtic and pagan traditions...am I way =
off?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Celtic yes.....and <EM>technically </EM>Britain, but more =
specifically,=20
Ireland!&nbsp; =3D)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>My father, who&nbsp;spent his early years&nbsp;in Ireland in the =
1920's,=20
used to tell fun stories of  turnip carvings and bonfires and things =
that go=20
bump in the night. Samhain was the pre-Christian "New Year's Eve", when =
it was=20
believed that the spirits of the dead could re-enter the world of the=20
living.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV><BR>When Catholicism first took hold in Ireland the Church =
Christianised=20
some pagan rituals to try to make the faith more appealing to the =
natives.&nbsp;=20
Samhain was transformed into a holy day&nbsp;to honour the Catholic =
saints, the=20
Eve of All Saints or All Hallows. The church maintained that the spirits =
and=20
deities originally&nbsp;glorified on this day were actually evil beings, =
hence=20
the modern-day association with daemons, witchcraft &amp; goblins, as =
well as=20
symbols of the dead like ghosts and skeletons.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>(Of course Dad wasn't old enough to remember all this personally, =
he=20
just&nbsp;had fun spreading the lore, as do I!&nbsp;&nbsp; :-) )</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Cheers!</DIV>
<DIV>Kerrie (font of folklore)</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0039_01BF24A5.ADEF2D00--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 19:47:25 1999
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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Samhain (OT) (was: Hallowe'en costumes)
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

 
>When Catholicism first took hold in Ireland the Church Christianised  some
>pagan rituals to try to make the faith more appealing to the natives. 
>Samhain was transformed into a holy day to honour the Catholic saints, the
>Eve of All Saints or All Hallows. The church maintained that the spirits
>and  deities originally glorified on this day were actually evil beings,
>hence  the modern-day association with daemons, witchcraft & goblins, as
>well as  symbols of the dead like ghosts and skeletons.     (Of course Dad
>wasn't old enough to remember all this personally, he  just had fun
>spreading the lore, as do I!   :-) )   Cheers! Kerrie (font of folklore)

I lived in Italy for a year and a half and while I was there I saw All
Saints Day (which is Nov. 1st) and the Day of the Dead which is the
following day. I think the relationship to the dead was rather universal.
I'm not very knowledgeable on the cultural exchange between the Celtic form
of Catholicism and the Italian form but I have been told that there was
very little if any cross over. So why would the Italians be worshiping the
same sort of thing about the same time? Any way on All Saints you visit
cathedrals (if your religious) and on the Day of the Dead you visit and
decorate your family's cript and grave sites. No one works and everyone
seems rather morbid. (Sort of like Memorial Day here in the states).

I'm not saying you're wrong, because I know that the Celtic New Year was at
this time too. I'm just wondering about what the truth is. The Mexicans
have the same Day of the Dead but they dress up skeletons to look like
family members and that sort of thing.

I do have a half memory from college that the Romans and Greeks worshiped
Demeter's grief as her Daughter, Persephone, returned to live with her
husband in the underworld for the winter at about this time of year.
Perhaps that is where the Mediterranean influenced form of Catholicism gets
their version rather than the Celtic/Galic celebration of the nearness of
dead friends and family (I do remember that it was a time of joy for them).

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Samhain (OT) (was: Hallowe'en costumes)
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

 
>When Catholicism first took hold in Ireland the Church Christianised  some
>pagan rituals to try to make the faith more appealing to the natives. 
>Samhain was transformed into a holy day to honour the Catholic saints, the
>Eve of All Saints or All Hallows. The church maintained that the spirits
>and  deities originally glorified on this day were actually evil beings,
>hence  the modern-day association with daemons, witchcraft & goblins, as
>well as  symbols of the dead like ghosts and skeletons.     (Of course Dad
>wasn't old enough to remember all this personally, he  just had fun
>spreading the lore, as do I!   :-) )   Cheers! Kerrie (font of folklore)

I lived in Italy for a year and a half and while I was there I saw All
Saints Day (which is Nov. 1st) and the Day of the Dead which is the
following day. I think the relationship to the dead was rather universal.
I'm not very knowledgeable on the cultural exchange between the Celtic form
of Catholicism and the Italian form but I have been told that there was
very little if any cross over. So why would the Italians be worshiping the
same sort of thing about the same time? Any way on All Saints you visit
cathedrals (if your religious) and on the Day of the Dead you visit and
decorate your family's cript and grave sites. No one works and everyone
seems rather morbid. (Sort of like Memorial Day here in the states).

I'm not saying you're wrong, because I know that the Celtic New Year was at
this time too. I'm just wondering about what the truth is. The Mexicans
have the same Day of the Dead but they dress up skeletons to look like
family members and that sort of thing.

I do have a half memory from college that the Romans and Greeks worshiped
Demeter's grief as her Daughter, Persephone, returned to live with her
husband in the underworld for the winter at about this time of year.
Perhaps that is where the Mediterranean influenced form of Catholicism gets
their version rather than the Celtic/Galic celebration of the nearness of
dead friends and family (I do remember that it was a time of joy for them).

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 20:48:50 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 23:12:54 +0000
From: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: German Ren Bodices
References: <3.0.5.32.19991022132958.0079db10@antir.com>
	 <3.0.5.32.19991022193605.00793c30@antir.com> <3.0.5.32.19991027222114.007bace0@antir.com>
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>



Kris wrote:

> -Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
>
> At 07:11 PM 26/10/99 +0000, you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
> >
> >What I've usually seen with this type of bodice is 3 pieces in the front
> and 2
> >in the back. The side pieces go from the side to 1/3 of the chest, the middle
> >pieces from mid breast to mid breast. ( Sorry for the graphic pic but it's
> the
> >best explanation I have) This allows you to make adjustments without darts.
> >Check the visual hist of coustume series and Milla Davenport for period pics.
> >!9th cent redrawings are often not shaped right and are romanticised. Hope
> >this helps
> >
> >Raella
>
> ahh... I will do that! Thanks very much for the idea on cutting the pattern
> pieces. I'll have to try it this weekend :]
>
> oh, and would the 3 front pieces be like 'princess' seams? or would they
> not curve quite that much...
> Probably not, eh?
> No, they don't really curve that much. Sorry I'm kinda slow to respond. I don't
> get to explore my email as much as I would like. Somebody, not sure who, asked
> for more specifics. I'll have to dig around in my books to figure out where
> this picture in my head is documented. I hope it's similar to what you need. :
> ).

Raella


> Kris
> (who can't believe she just thought & typed an "eh"... yeesh..)
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 21:01:45 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199911020155.TAA06406@discordia.io.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 22:12:49 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

> Wearing costumes to work, well, I couldn't because I teach in a High
School
> and they don't want anyone to influence the kids, so I just wore my black
> and crystals:-)

I taught in Middle School last year, and wore my Online Costume Ball '98
logo outfit to school (the hippie) for Halloween.  I did it on a dare from
my students.  They didn't believe it was me in the logo until they saw me
dressed in the outfit.  As the year went on my students got used to me
dressing strange, especially since I wear a lot of wearable art.  We had
another teacher who was into wearable art, so there were two of us.  She
likes more of the quilted look, I like more of the art statement.  One
outfit, I used to wear had an Egyptian veil tied around my waist.  I jingled
as I walked.  Another outfit, had fringe all over in and the textile was an
African print.  When you fall in with the artsy/history/home ec. teacher
category, the staff didn't care what we wore!  I broke the mold of what
teachers are supposed to look like.

Gee, I wonder, if Teddy in England school thinks in the same manner?

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 21:06:51 1999
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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.33a47676.254e4190@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Corset Fitting Challenge
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 20:22:12 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

Wow, thanks for all the response.  I have forwarded them on to my friend -
by the way-no offense was taken to anything.  We think we are going to give
Kat and Kents idea a try.  I'll let you know how it turns out!!

Saragrace

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 21:10:52 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Turn of the century clothing
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 19:27:02 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Aren't you sweet?  I thought the name was Cortland, or something, but since 
I wasn't sure I kept looking.

thank you!

Susannah


>From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Turn of the century clothing
>Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 10:49:49 -0400
>
>
>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
>I saved the original post.  Here you are:
>
>quote on:
>The name of the corset company is:
>
>Cortland Corset Co., Inc.
>PO B 546
>Cortland, NY  13045
>(607) 756-7566
>
>She read this to me from a flyer that is 2 years old, so verify the area
>code before you use it.  The model she uses is the "All-In-One"
>corselet, which you use with the old garter-type stockings.
>
>quote off:
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Susannah Eanes <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: Friday, October 29, 1999 10:21 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Turn of the century clothing
>
>
> >
> >-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
> >
> >This was originally sent in by me, and the company was the one who still
> >provides c. 1915 -1920s corsets for my grandmother, in her late 80s.  
>Now,
> >of course I cannot find the pamphlet that she sent me, but I remember it 
>is
> >in New York state.  Sorry I missed this post until now.  If you saw my 
>post
> >about the turn of the century store stock, there are plenty of c. 1900s -
> >1930s corsets of this type in the inventory.  If you are really 
>interested,
> >let me know.  Meanwhile, I'll keep looking for the corset company 
>pamphlet
> >Grandmother sent me.
> >
> >Susannah
> >
> >
> >
> >>A while back -- several months at least -- there was a discussion about 
>a
> >>corset maker back east who might still make the early century corsets.
> >>The pink/peach one that goes from under the breasts to the hips.  Did
> >>anyone ever contact them and did you get a response?
> >>
> >
> >______________________________________________________
> >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Message-ID: <004b01bf24e3$c0008960$e5d1a4d8@e4c2n6>
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003c01bf24cf$981c87a0$80f4fea9@ouppc>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Samhain (OT) (was: Hallowe'en costumes)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 22:38:36 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0048_01BF24B9.D6058960
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

MabelWhen Catholicism first took hold in Ireland the Church =
Christianised some pagan rituals to try to make the faith more appealing =
to the natives.  Samhain was transformed into a holy day to honour the =
Catholic saints, the Eve of All Saints or All Hallows. The church =
maintained that the spirits and deities originally glorified on this day =
were actually evil beings, hence the modern-day association with =
daemons, witchcraft & goblins, as well as symbols of the dead like =
ghosts and skeletons. =20

  Gee, I'm Catholic and last night our church had a big Halloween party, =
tonight we had mass for All Saints Day, and tomorrow is all All Souls =
Day. Our mass tonight was a combo, all Saints and Souls. =20

  I saw a very early movie where the kids we going out on Halloween =
night, and pulling tricks.  I think the setting was 1900-1910.  Instead =
of the kids receiving treats, the object was to pull tricks on people =
that they didn't like in town.  The kids threw small bags of flour on =
the disliked people. The kids dressed in costume to where the victim did =
not know who the kids were. Has anyone ever heard of this tradition?  =
When did kids start getting candy?

  Later... Penny
  http://www.costumegallery.com=20

------=_NextPart_000_0048_01BF24B9.D6058960
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Mabel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"" bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV align=3Dleft>
  <DIV>
  <DIV>When Catholicism first took hold in Ireland the Church =
Christianised some=20
  pagan rituals to try to make the faith more appealing to the =
natives.&nbsp;=20
  Samhain was transformed into a holy day&nbsp;to honour the Catholic =
saints,=20
  the Eve of All Saints or All Hallows. The church maintained that the =
spirits=20
  and deities originally&nbsp;glorified on this day were actually evil =
beings,=20
  hence the modern-day association with daemons, witchcraft &amp; =
goblins, as=20
  well as symbols of the dead like ghosts and skeletons.&nbsp; </DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Gee, I'm Catholic and last night our church had a =
big=20
  Halloween party, tonight we had mass for All Saints Day, and tomorrow =
is all=20
  All Souls Day. Our mass tonight was a combo, all Saints and =
Souls.&nbsp;=20
  </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I saw a very early movie where the kids we going =
out on=20
  Halloween night, and pulling tricks.&nbsp; I think the setting was=20
  1900-1910.&nbsp; Instead of the kids receiving treats, the object was =
to pull=20
  tricks on people that they didn't like in town.&nbsp; The kids threw =
small=20
  bags of flour on the disliked people.&nbsp;The kids dressed in costume =
to=20
  where the victim did not know who the kids were. Has anyone ever heard =
of this=20
  tradition?&nbsp; When did kids start getting candy?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Later... Penny</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.costumegallery.com">http://www.costumegallery.com</A> =

  </FONT></DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0048_01BF24B9.D6058960--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 21:41:40 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <v03110700b443f5c2c6f7@[166.70.12.4]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Samhain (OT) (was: Hallowe'en costumes)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 23:01:26 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

In our diocese, All Soul's Day is like the Mexican Day of the Dead but
without the skeleton's.  When I lived in New Mexico, they did celebrate Day
of the Dead.  Our present church in Virginia has just been designated as the
hispanic church of our diocese and we will probably be celebrating Day of
the Dead next year.  We have a very large hispanic population in our area.
So we are learning a lot about the hispanic culture through our church.

Both are actually a wonderful celebration in remembrance of our ancestors
and friends who have passed on before us.  At our church, we have table to
place trinkets or photos of those we want to remember and a prayer book is
signed with the belated people names.  At one time, it was called the Book
of the Dead.  Some people do go to cemetries and decorate graves.  One of
our priests suggested that our families have a picnic near our loved ones
graves, and discuss with our family fond memories of the person.

Last year, when we went home at Mardi Gras, we went to my husband's parents
graves, and had a belated All Souls Day.  None of our family lives in VA.
Each member of our family picked out some of our favorite Mardi Gras catches
and placed them all over there graves.  We also bought a deck of cards, and
placed black 3's on Papa's grave and read 3's on Mama's grave.  Both of his
parents loved Mardi Gras, and playing Canastia (sp) card games.  Papa's
always complained when playing cards, that all Mama played down was black
3's.  Our family all sat on the ground and talked about how much his parents
loved these pastimes.

Thanks for letting me share, this is a very special time for my family.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 21:46:23 1999
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Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 21:54:52 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Samhain (OT) (was: Hallowe'en costumes)
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Well, my grandmother was born in 1891 and when I was a child she would
tell me stories of her own childhood. I remember her telling me that one
of the things that she remembered most about Halloween was that she got
to wear her brother's pants as part of the disguise. She told me that it
was really the only time in her life that she wore them. She didn't tell
me what she did while running around at night wearing her brothers' pants
(G) but I suspect that they weren't being good little children! The rest
of the outfit seemed to be her brothers' shirts and some coal to blacken
her face. This probably would have taken place at about 1900-1905 in a
working-class, German ethnic neighborhood of Chicago.

Karen 

On Mon, 1 Nov 1999 22:38:36 -0500 "Penny Ladnier"
<penny.creative.outlets@erols.com> writes:
>   Gee, I'm Catholic and last night our church had a big Halloween 
> party, tonight we had mass for All Saints Day, and tomorrow is all 
> All Souls Day. Our mass tonight was a combo, all Saints and Souls.  
> 
>   I saw a very early movie where the kids we going out on Halloween 
> night, and pulling tricks.  I think the setting was 1900-1910.  
> Instead of the kids receiving treats, the object was to pull tricks 
> on people that they didn't like in town.  The kids threw small bags 
> of flour on the disliked people. The kids dressed in costume to 
> where the victim did not know who the kids were. Has anyone ever 
> heard of this tradition?  When did kids start getting candy?
> 
>   Later... Penny
>   http://www.costumegallery.com 
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 11/1/99 9:24:22 PM Central Standard Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@erols.com writes:

<<  Online Costume Ball  >>

I forgot what is the url of this and how long will it be up?
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 22:20:26 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Halloween costumes
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 20:41:27 -0800
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Well, I guess I had better chime in here too.  This year we created a scene
in our garage.  We hung black plastic down and decorated it with a full moon
and stars.  We had a loveseat draped in black, two stands on which we placed
our jack o'lanterns and various gourds, silk sunflowers, indian corn and
candles,  We had a card table draped in black with a manniquin I made
sitting at it, dressed in black, reading tarot cards.  Suspended from the
ceiling was a manniquin dressed all in white (she was a ghost) and at the
other end was the "Crypt Keeper" dressed in a brown monk's habit.  There was
also a standing, black coffin with a skeleton in it, orange, green and
purple lights around the roof of the house, spider webs and bats.  Then to
top it all off, we had a large black light fixture facing the scene and a
strobe light.  Our neighbors loved it and we had a lot of fun doing it.  In
fact, we are already trying to figure out how we can outdo ourselves next
year - we are thinking maybe an Egyptian tomb theme!!!  I took lots of
pictures with my digital camera.  If anyone is interested in seeing what we
did, let me know and I will post them on my web site.

Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------
-----Original Message-----
From: Diane M. Mathews <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Monday, November 01, 1999 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Halloween costumes


>
>-Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
>
>I am glad to know that someone else is as crazy as we are here.  I am in
>Texas and my ENTIRE house is decorated Halloween.  Huge spider webs and the
>candlabraas all have black candles.  Ghosts are everywhere and the entire
>house is wired for Halloween sounds.  Every year we have a huge costume
>party and the kids have a costume contest for the best dressed horse
>costume. (this is a horse farm).  We always have at least three pintas and
>there is everything from candy to games to horse grooming equipment that
>might fall out when the pintas are hit.   Christmas gets even crazier.  I
>was in a store last year waiting in the check out line when I overheard a
>convesation about " THE " place to go a Christmas party and how this place
>looked like Santa's workshop and there was a 16 foot live blue spruce
>Christmas tree with all animation ornaments but, she did not know the
>address.  I turned around and said " do you mean the horse farm ? " and the
>reply was " YES ".  I could not believe that it was my own house !!!  I
>kindly gave her directions and the date of the party.  After 150
>quests----What are a few more ?  The more the merrier and we do have a good
>time here.
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 22:21:26 1999
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From: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>
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-Poster: KATHARINE WHISLER <KWHISLER@kentlaw.edu>

>>- -Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
>> costume.  The kicker was that almost no-one figured out what the costume
>> was, and the majority's first guess was "Queen Amidala"!!!  In fact, I
>> won "Most Beautiful" because they thought that was what I was, even
>> though in my bit for the judges I blessed them, flashed the fangs, then
>> bit one of them on the neck!
>
>Sandy,
>
>You're not alone. Last night, my son was dressed as a jedi with the jedi
>robe and lightsabor. Most people thought he was a vampire!
>
>Heather

I remember being extremely proud of the "Gandalf the Grey" costume I made
when I was 12 years old, but in a long night of trick-or-treating most 
people thought (understandably, I now realize) that I was Santa Claus or 
Father Time.  Only two people guessed correctly, one of whom answered the 
door in full plate armor!

--Katharine


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 22:38:34 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.38ddaef7.254fbff8@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

> <<  Online Costume Ball  >>

Since Sept. 30.  I still have two sets of historic costume pictures to add
maybe later this week.  The url is
http://www.costumegallery.com/Costume_Ball/99/attend.htm or go to the front
of the Gallery and go to the Courtyard area.

BTW, for the Ball 2000, I will be accepting entries all year long.  But the
pictures will not go up on the site until Sept. 30, 2000.  So if you have a
picture during the year you want to enter, send it to me anytime.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 22:56:50 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 21:11:05 -0800
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Lavolta Press wrote:
> 
> 
> They are called Classic Jewelry.  Their main web page is
> 
> http://www.classic-jewelry.de
> 
> Fran

I didn't have any trouble with the website, but now I'd really like one
of their necklaces.  Gorgeous stuff - naturally I fell in love with the
most expensive one.

CArolyn
> 
> ---------------------------------------------
> Visit our web pages!
> Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
> Historic and vintage dance
> http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: German Slash and puff
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
>
>Hi all,
>
>I want to make one of those lovely German slash and puff dress.  But I'm
>coming up short on the documentation.  Before I cut the velvet I would
>like to have as much information as possible and not rely on a paperdoll
>interpretation.
>
>Anyone know of any artists I could look up on the web for portraits?

Lucas Cranach, Albrecht Altdorfer, Albrecht Durer, Holbein

>What about readily available books?

Lucas Cranach by Friedlander

 I have to get cutting pretty
>quick-need it complete for Saturday- so ILL is out of the question.
>
>Thanks
>Alexandria

You must be a quick seamstress. I've never completed a German gown in 4
days (even working on nothing else.)

You might check out my web page for some info and a list of references:

http://www.znet.com/~savaskan/germans

The German Women's costume by Medieval Miscellania (or whatever they go by
now) has some decent documentation inside. Perhaps you can find a vendor
who will overnight ship it to you.

If you have any specific questions, I'd be happy to answer what I can.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 23:23:19 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 21:36:04 -0800
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Halloween in my neighborhood is pretty big - lots of graveyards,
pumpkins, strobe lights, etc.  Last year we didn't do much in the way of
decorations (I was too busy working overtime) but this year with it
being on Sunday we had Saturday to play around.  We dressed my Lady
Grace mannequin doll in my wedding dress, threw some white silk organza
over her head as a veil, and put a candle in her hand.  Then we put her
in the middle of the front picture window and blacked out the rest of
the window with black velvet, turning off all the lights in the room. 
If we could have figured out a way to give her a red beating heart ala
Disney's Haunted Mansion we would have, but it was spooky enough - lots
of folks commented on it.

The hilarious thing was when we were setting it up, I told my husband it
didn't look good with just the drapes framing the doll and we needed to
black it out with some velvet or something.  Silly man - he said "Do you
have any black velvet?" (only about 10 yards of it).

The other thing he said, after we lit some candles and put them on the
treadle sewing machine next to the door (so we could put the candy
basket on it) was "Now I know why they call that model a coffin top." 
It did give me ideas for next year though - maybe dress Grace all in
black, remove the sewing machine from the treadle base, and put a doll
under the coffin lid for a funeral.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  1 23:25:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 21:37:57 -0800
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Heidi Fox wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> 
> I am unbelievably envious of all of your Halloween activities and
> costume-friendly events!  And your costumes sound divine! I was so
> disappointed in my Halloween weekend this year...I hope someone will tell me
> I'm dead wrong on this one, but San Diego is just not a costume town! 

Heidi, you need to come north to West Hollywood's Halloween bash - I've
been several years and it's a real blast.

The LA Art Deco Society also did their Hollywood Cemetary tour again,
which I would have liked to go on but couldn't make this year. Maybe
next.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 00:28:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 22:48:20 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hallowe'en costumes in America
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>Halloween in my neighborhood is pretty big - lots of graveyards,
>pumpkins, strobe lights, etc.  

Our neighbourhood is pretty dead, decoration-wise, on Halloween.  A few
trick-or-treating kids, but not many decorations.  And there are so many
Victorian houses here which could be really 'spookified'.

This year I went to more Halloween parties than I have ever been to before,
plus helping my disco-ball daughter into her costume twice.  By Sunday
afternoon I was all Halloweened out, so I went to my usual costume buddy's
house - she taped over the doorbell so nobody would ring it - and we sewed.
 I got the body lining of my new 1902 cut out, after looking at her new
costume book.  She got some applique done on her father's Xmas present
quilt, after showing me her new fashion plates.

As we sewed we watched the Bela Lugosi version of Dracula because my friend
had never seen it.  She spotted a star of David around the Count's neck I
had never identified as such before.  I was surprised to see late '20's
clothes on the extras (street scenes) but early '30's ones on the main
characters.  The ethnic clothes (at the inn below Dracula's castle) looked
like they were actual Hungarian/Roumanian garments.  It was interesting to
my friend to see where all those Dracula cliche's had come from:  the
Count's accent, his widow's peak, his cape, his posturing with the cape, etc.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 00:28:44 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 22:06:17 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 14:44:11 -0800 
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

The same was true when we drove through one of the more
>"flambuoyant" areas of town; 

I hope you tried Hillcrest.  The costumes ought to have been spectacular there.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 00:48:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 00:02:57 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: German Slash and puff
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: "AlexandriaDoyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Alexandria wrote:

> I want to make one of those lovely German slash and puff dress.  But
> I'm coming up short on the documentation. Before I cut the velvet I
> would like to have as much information as possible and not rely on a
> paperdoll interpretation.
>
> Anyone know of any artists I could look up on the web for portraits?
> What about readily available books? I have to get cutting pretty
> quick-need it complete for Saturday- so ILL is out of the question.

You might be able to find some good info in Janet Arnold [my copy was borrowed
permanently. :-( ] "Hispanic Costume: 1480-1520" by Ruth Matilda Anderson is
good too. Though it's not about German, there is a lot of related material.
Here are some books to start:

"Pictorial Archive of Decorative Renaissance Woodcuts" by Jost Amman.
     ISBN:  0-486-21987-9  It's very late, but has great woodcuts.
"The Paintings of Lucas Cranach" by Max J. Friela"nder and Jakob Rosenberg
     ISBN:  0-914427-31-8  May be out of print.
"The Triumph of Maximilian I" by Hans Burgkmair and others. It's an out of
     print Dover book, without too many women I'm afraid, but it's one of my
     all-time favorites.
"The German Single Leaf Woodcut; 1550-1600" by Walter Strauss.  The absolute
     best if you can find and afford it.
"German Painting for Du"rer to Holbein" by Otto Benesch.  Another great out
     of print book.

Of course, it somewhat depends on the time period you are considering, but
here's some people to look for in a sort of chronological order. The *
indicates the more widely known artists.

* Martin Schongauer
  Michael Wolgemut
  Michael Pacher
  Max Pachlich
* Albrecht Du"rer (not a lot of women)
* Albrecht Altdorfer (a lot of camp followers and landscapes)
* Hans Burgkmair (great examples of landsknecht in the 'Triumph of Maximillian')
* Hans Holbein the Elder
* Lucas Cranach the Elder (many examples of women)
* Hans Baldung (called) Grien
* Mathias Gru"newald (aka Mathis Gothardt or Neithart)
* Hans Holbein the Younger (mostly active in England)
  Bernhard Strigel
  Hans Su"ss (or Suess, aka von Kulmbach)
  Hans Schaufelein
  Hans Sebald Beham
  Bartel Beham
  Georg Pencz
  Wolf(gang) Huber
  Lucas Cranach the Younger
  Urs Graf
  Christoph Amberger
  Jakob Seisenegger
* Jost Amman (great woodcuts from the last quarter of the 16th century)

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 23:23:21 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Hallowe'en costumes in America
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
>As we sewed we watched the Bela Lugosi version of Dracula because my friend
>had never seen it.  She spotted a star of David around the Count's neck I
>had never identified as such before.  I was surprised to see late '20's
>clothes on the extras (street scenes) but early '30's ones on the main
>characters.  The ethnic clothes (at the inn below Dracula's castle) looked
>like they were actual Hungarian/Roumanian garments.  It was interesting to
>my friend to see where all those Dracula cliche's had come from:  the
>Count's accent, his widow's peak, his cape, his posturing with the cape, etc.

My favorite vampire movie is the 1922 silent film "Nosferatu" by F.W. 
Murnau. I think it has the creepiest vampire. Doesn't contain any of 
the typical American vampire cliches.

Werner Herzog "remade" it in 1979 starring Klaus Kinski as the 
vampire. He followed the original very closely - although there was 
speaking (but not a whole lot) and it was in color - but i still 
prefer the silent original.

It's also great with the music composed for it by the Club Foot 
Orchestra, as they have for "The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari" and 
"Metropolis", a couple more of my favorite movies.

(i've never seen "Vampyr" the 1931 Carl-Theodor Dreyer film... anyone?)

(and i still have a soft spot (or is that two side by side on my 
neck) for the Bela Lugosi Dracula)

Lilinah
ok, so it's not a costume topic

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 07:03:26 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Samhain (OT) (was: Hallowe'en costumes)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 08:19:52 -0500
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Mabel
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Penny Ladnier=20
  Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 10:38 PM
  Subject: Re: H-COST: Samhain (OT) (was: Hallowe'en costumes)
    >>I saw a very early movie where the kids we going out on Halloween =
night, and >>pulling tricks.  I think the setting was 1900-1910.  =
Instead of the kids receiving >>treats, the object was to pull tricks on =
people that they didn't like in town.  The kids >>threw small bags of =
flour on the disliked people. The kids dressed in costume to >>where the =
victim did not know who the kids were. Has anyone ever heard of this =
>>tradition?  When did kids start getting candy?

        I've heard two things about the "tricks" part.  Nothing =
involving flour bags, but the mischief-makers went supposedly went out =
in costume and caused a ruckus in hopes of scaring off the spirits that =
were supposed to be stalking the night, version two is that they were =
actually mimicking the spirits--a great opportunity to pull pranks on =
the cranky folks in the town and blame it on the wandering ghosties.

        Two stories on the "treats" part too! Some people would leave =
offerings of food and drink for the spirits on their doorsteps, which =
could have evolved into the modern day trick or treating.....I also =
remember learning about children going door to door begging for "soul =
cakes", though I have "fuzzy memory syndrome" here and honestly couldn't =
tell you what or why on that topic.

        Our Irish-Catholic church & school always hosted parties and =
children's parades on Halloween too, we really didn't consider it to =
have any religious significance at all, regardless of it's beginnings.  =
I think over time it just developed into a "fun" holiday.

        I've lived most of my life here in the states, so I'm not sure =
how they choose to celebrate (or not celebrate!) it in Ireland today.  =
I'd love to know though, if anyone has the inside scoop! =3D)

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style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:penny.creative.outlets@erols.com"=20
  title=3Dpenny.creative.outlets@erols.com>Penny Ladnier</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, November 01, 1999 =
10:38=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: H-COST: Samhain =
(OT) (was:=20
  Hallowe'en costumes)</DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV align=3Dleft>
    <DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;&gt;I saw a very early movie where the kids =
we going=20
    out on Halloween night, and &gt;&gt;pulling tricks.&nbsp; I think =
the=20
    setting was 1900-1910.&nbsp; Instead of the kids receiving =
&gt;&gt;treats,=20
    the object was to pull tricks on people that they didn't like in =
town.&nbsp;=20
    The kids &gt;&gt;threw small bags of flour on the disliked =
people.&nbsp;The=20
    kids dressed in costume to &gt;&gt;where the victim did not know who =
the=20
    kids were. Has anyone ever heard of this &gt;&gt;tradition?&nbsp; =
When did=20
    kids start getting candy?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I've heard two things about =
the=20
    "tricks" part.&nbsp; Nothing involving flour bags, but the =
mischief-makers=20
    went supposedly went out in costume and caused a ruckus in hopes of =
scaring=20
    off the spirits that were supposed to be&nbsp;stalking the night, =
version=20
    two is that they were actually mimicking the spirits--a great =
opportunity to=20
    pull pranks on the cranky folks in the town and blame it on the =
wandering=20
    ghosties.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Two stories on the "treats" =
part too!=20
    Some people would leave offerings of food and drink for the spirits =
on their=20
    doorsteps, which could have evolved into the modern day trick or=20
    treating.....I also remember learning about children going door to =
door=20
    begging for "soul cakes", though I have "fuzzy memory syndrome" here =
and=20
    honestly couldn't tell you what or why on that topic.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Our Irish-Catholic church =
&amp; school=20
    always hosted parties and children's parades on Halloween too, we =
really=20
    didn't consider it to have any religious significance at all, =
regardless of=20
    it's beginnings.&nbsp; I think over time it just developed into a =
"fun"=20
    holiday.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I've lived most of my life =
here in the=20
    states, so I'm not sure how they choose to celebrate (or not =
celebrate!) it=20
    in Ireland today.&nbsp; I'd love to know though, if anyone has the =
inside=20
    scoop! =
=3D)</FONT></DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BF250B.097FC660--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 07:38:09 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 21:29:05 -0800
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Samhain (OT) (was: Hallowe'en costumes)
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

            I don't know about the candy tradition timing, Penny, but my
granddad, born in 1896, used to go out disguised when he was a young man
[teenager, I think] and they'd put cattle on rooftops or put the buggy in
the rootceller by turning it sideways, or whatever other mischief didn't
cause real harm to the misliked party, but would inconvenience the ever
living daylights out of him/her.  Mostly directed at men, however, I got
the impression.  Carol
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Halloween costumes
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:41 PM 11/01/1999 -0800, you wrote:-Poster: "Broneske"
<unicorn@softcom.net> If anyone is interested in seeing what we did, let me
know and I will post them on my web site.
         Joan--I would love it!  Please be sure to post the url with it
when you let us know they're up.  Thanks !  Carol
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Subject: H-COST: QEWU
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com

Hello
    Did the person who was looking for _QE's Wardrobe Unlocked_ ever find a 
copy? If someone is still looking for it, my catalog from 'Hard-to-Find 
Needlework Books' just arrived and p24 lists QEWU for $175.
    If anyone is interested, the stock number is #31302 and Bette Feinstein can 
be reached at 617/969-0942 or 96 Roundwood Rd Newton MA 02464.
    I have no idea how many copies she may have of this.

    -Judy Mitchell

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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:17:54 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST:  Halloween in the UK
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

There's not much active participation in Halloween stuff here.  It's 
regarded as another "horrible American import" by a lot of people 
(sort of like those dreadful "Hallmark" cards, but at least we only 
get Halloween once a year instead of all year 'round....<g>)

Last year a group of us dressed up to go out trick-or-treating, with 
a difference - we had prepared a cauldron full of packets of sweets 
to give away to the people we called on.  We couldn't get anyone 
to even open their doors and in the end we had to waylay other 
groups of trick-or-treaters to give *them* the sweets.

There was one fun part to the evening.  As we were all getting 
ready I heard the doorbel ring and as somone answered the door 
there was a chorus of, "Trick or aaaaaaaaah!"  and the sound of 
running feet.  Brian was first to be ready so the only one free to 
answer the door.  His Cthulhu costume was more than the kids at 
the door could cope with....<g>

*This* year, I was babysitting my godson (or whatever the athiests 
equivalent of a godson is) Jared.  His parents had returned from 
their rehersal when the doorbell rang.  His father groaned "Oh no, 
bloody trick-or-treaters!" and was just getting up when Jared (aged 
3) appeared from another room and opened the front door.

"Trick or treat!" 

Jared slammed the door and walked into the kitchen where we 
were all sitting.  "It was some silly boys and girls at the door!"  he 
proclaimed solumly.  His parents rewarded him for such an 
appropriate way of dealing with them.

I don't know if the idea will really take off here.  There's too much of 
that sort of attitude. A few years ago, when I mentioned to a friend 
from Boston that we'd had some trick-or-treaters to the door and I'd 
told them that bought masks weren't good enough, they'd need to 
do a lot better with the costumes to get anything out of me, she 
told me we'd have ended up with eggs thrown at our windows or 
toilet-paper festooning garden if I'd done that in the US.  My 
response was that, in my neighbourhood, they'd have run out of 
eggs and toilet paper before they got half way down the first street.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 15:02:55 +0000
From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Thanks for all the replies on this topic.

Joan Broneske wrote "I thought the traditions came from Britain..."

Well, yes. As a child in the 50s and 60s I was aware of the traditions of turnip lanterns, bobbing for apples etc. but it was not something *every*  family did *every* year, just a theme for the occasional party  - and I had never heard of  "trick or treat".

Kerrie's explanation is slightly misleading in that All Saints' Day is the day *after* Samhain, not a replacement for it (hence Hallowe'en = All Hallows' Eve). The idea is that the evil spirits have their fling the night before the holy day.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 10:25:17 -0500
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Halloween in the UK
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>There's not much active participation in Halloween stuff here.  It's 
regarded as another "horrible American import" by a lot of people 
(sort of like those dreadful "Hallmark" cards, but at least we only 
get Halloween once a year instead of all year 'round....<g>)

Hey it might not be up to much in the smoke but in the sticks it is
celebrated and has always been except when they tried to burn celebrants I
guess :)


We don't trick or treat, but we have parties & apple bob, do apples on
strings or biscuits on strings (a more modern thing) coin on flour game,
the chop the bar of choc when you throw a six with scarf, hat gloves etc on
, dress up & eat !!!

Then there are the traditional fortune games involving fires apple pips and
nuts & so on.

Mel
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Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 10:29:14 EST
Subject: H-COST: Miller's Bon Marche
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com


Sorry to clutter the list with this question but I'm not sure where else to 
ask.  I'm going to Gettysburg this weekend and was wondering if anyone had 
any idea where Miller's Bon Marche has moved to.  The last time I drove thru 
Gettysburg I noticed that their store on the Main Square was gone.  Now I've 
checked their website and find it no longer exists.  Information doesn't seem 
to be able to find them either.  Does anyone know where they've moved to or 
if they're still in business?

Also any other recommendations for costuming in Gettysburg?  Thanks.

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <83EAC132956@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Halloween in the UK
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 10:39:22 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Hi Teddy,

Plan to pack up your costumes and come visit me next Halloween here in the
States.  You'll have a Great time!

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 10:31:28 1999
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From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <D8151E3801AA3400@c2smtp.kentlaw.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Misidentified costumes
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>


> I remember being extremely proud of the "Gandalf the Grey" costume I made
> when I was 12 years old, but in a long night of trick-or-treating most
> people thought (understandably, I now realize) that I was Santa Claus or
> Father Time.  Only two people guessed correctly, one of whom answered the
> door in full plate armor!

Katharine, I love it!!

Heather

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 10:35:06 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

_Meet Me in St. Louis_ is a movie which shows old-fashioned Hallowe'en mischief.
Here in Calgary, it's highly unusual for a kid to go trick-or-treating 
without a costume of some sort, even if it's just cross-dressing or a sports 
uniform. (A standard question is "What are you?", and the kid had better 
have an answer.) In fact, in all the years I've been handing out treats, I 
can only remember one costumeless set of kids--they'd just moved from the 
U.K! Trick-or-treating is for younger kids; kids 12 & over get their candy 
with a frown, kids over 14 are told they're too old & may or may not get 
candy. Houses do get egged sometimes! A few people make kids sing a song 
before they get a treat.  
When I was a kid in the late 60's, packaged candy was uncommon--instead we 
often got popcorn balls, cookies, and apples, and instead of yelling 
"trick-or-treat", we'd call "Hallowe'en apples!" *sigh*
Few adults dress up at work on Hallowe'en, with the notable exception of 
elementary school teachers & staff. Most decorations are pretty modest 
(cardboard cutouts & jack-o-lanterns), but some folks do go all-out. 

Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 12:00:59 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 01:29:14 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: old Vampire movie costume
In-Reply-To: <v04210106b4443b9c99df@[208.225.99.112]>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>My favorite vampire movie is the 1922 silent film "Nosferatu" by F.W. 
>Murnau. I think it has the creepiest vampire. Doesn't contain any of 
>the typical American vampire cliches.

Interresting that these two were made so close to each other, one in '22
and the other in '31.  Now I'm going to have to watch the earlier one for
costumes, as I have a copy of that too.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Samhain (OT) (was: Hallowe'en costumes)
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> 
>             I don't know about the candy tradition timing, Penny, but my
> granddad, born in 1896, used to go out disguised when he was a young man
> [teenager, I think] and they'd put cattle on rooftops or put the buggy in
> the rootceller by turning it sideways, or whatever other mischief didn't
> cause real harm to the misliked party, but would inconvenience the ever
> living daylights out of him/her.  Mostly directed at men, however, I got
> the impression.  Carol

This reminds me of the tales my Father would tell, when he was a teen in
Kansas in the early '50's. One of the favorite 'tricks' was to tip over the
outhouse that a local farmer used. The best was when the farmer decided to
wait in the outhouse for the tricksters, with the thought of scaring the
begeebers out of them. Well, my Dad and his friends saw this fellow hide out
in the outhouse, so they did what any young prankster would do, and tipped
the outhouse over onto it's door. The farmer was trapped inside, until the
next morning, when a neighbor came by and got him out.
There was fitting revenge the next year, though. The same group of guys came
to do the traditional deed, but there was a twist. The fellow in the lead
found out that the farmer had moved the outhouse. Can you say *SPLASH!*?

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 14:06:43 EST
Subject: H-COST: hallowe'en
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Hallowe'en is the night before (or the vigil of) All Saints Day, November 1. 
All Souls Day is November 2 (today). It's true that the Catholic Church did 
move All Saints Day from spring to November 1 because of a pagan holiday. 
However, I'm not aware of Hallowe'en ever having any religious meaning. I'm 
Catholic too, and it certainly doesn't today. In fact, the Church (at least 
in America) encourages everyone to give it some meaning by celebrating All 
Saints Day and All Souls Day. I've gotten a couple of "Catholic Update" 
newsletters about it.

In the US, you Brits and Europeans may be interested to know, this most 
secular of holidays is being attacked right and left by Fundamentalists, who 
insist that its pagan roots are really evil and that it's "Satan's holiday," 
etc., etc., etc. My sister is a teacher in a public school that had to 
eliminate all Halloween activities because of some nutsy (my opinion!) 
parents. Lots of fundamentalist churches have "harvest festivals" to keep the 
kids off the streets with Satan. I have given up trying to explain that if 
Halloween ever had religious significance, the idea was to SCARE AWAY the 
evil spirits, not worship them! That's the USA for you, full of all kinds :-)

My daughter got a tract against Halloween with her candy this year -- some 
fundamentalist houses give them out with candy, hoping to convert the 
wretched Satan worshippers who come by. Well, at least they give out candy! I 
don't get the whole furor, but I do wish we could get away from "haunted 
houses" featuring serial killers and kids dressed up like murderers.

Teddy, I enjoyed your Halloween diatribe. You folks in the UK have enough 
weird celebrations, you don't need ours too.

Gail

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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Halloween in the UK
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <199911021025_MC2-8B5A-8F6C@compuserve.com>, Melanie Wilson
<MelanieWilson@compuserve.com> writes
>
>-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
>>There's not much active participation in Halloween stuff here.  It's 
>regarded as another "horrible American import" by a lot of people 
>(sort of like those dreadful "Hallmark" cards, but at least we only 
>get Halloween once a year instead of all year 'round....<g>)
>
>Hey it might not be up to much in the smoke but in the sticks it is
>celebrated and has always been except when they tried to burn celebrants I
>guess :)
>
>
>We don't trick or treat, but we have parties & apple bob, do apples on
>strings or biscuits on strings (a more modern thing) coin on flour game,
>the chop the bar of choc when you throw a six with scarf, hat gloves etc on
>, dress up & eat !!!
>
>Then there are the traditional fortune games involving fires apple pips and
>nuts & so on.
>
>Mel

I think a lot of groups have Halloween parties, and as Mel says there's
lots of games traditional to Halloween, but there's not really trick-or-
treat, and people dress up to go to parties, but not just generally in
the street - and certainly not to work!  And they dress as witches or
ghosts or cats, etc, not just the free-for-all fancy dress which seems
to go in the US.

In Scotland there's the tradition of "guising", which has got sort of
mixed between Halloween and Guy Fawkes, I think - children dress up in
scary costumes and go round with a Guy on a cart (or "guider") asking
for money (originally to buy fireworks, but probably nowadays they can
only spend it on sweets)

Jean

-- 
Jean Waddie
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Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 14:23:21 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Miller's Bon Marche
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Loren,

Check with Cricket Bauer at Gadsby's Tavern Museum in Alexandria for Miller 
Bon Marche new location plus interesting costuming in Gettysburg. She did 
19th century custom tailoring until lured back into the museum world.

Sally

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Kristina Harris book/Dover address needed
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

Dover Publications should shortly release "Authentic Victorian 
Fashion Patterns"  I'd like Dover's address to request a catalog 
since I'd like to order directly through them rather than advance 
order through bn.com or amazon.com.

Can anyone on this list supply me with Dover's address?

Many thanks
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 13:39:14 1999
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Dover Publications
31 E 2ND ST. MINEOLA, NY 11501
Tel: 516-294-7000
Fax: 5167425049

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Tue, 2 Nov 1999, Cindy Abel wrote:

> Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 13:41:46 +0000
> From: Cindy Abel <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Re: Kristina Harris book/Dover address needed
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
> 
> Dover Publications should shortly release "Authentic Victorian 
> Fashion Patterns"  I'd like Dover's address to request a catalog 
> since I'd like to order directly through them rather than advance 
> order through bn.com or amazon.com.
> 
> Can anyone on this list supply me with Dover's address?
> 
> Many thanks
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Dover Publications, Inc.
31 East 2nd Street
Mineola,NY 11501-3582
They have a free catalog.  I julst got the Christmas one.  "Authentic
Victorian Fashion Patterns, A Complete Lady's Wardrobe" is #40721-7, a
paperback, at $11.95.  Kristina Harris is the kEditor
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Thanks, Carolyn!  I will certainly have to check those out next year!

-----Original Message-----
From: Carolyn Richardson [mailto:benrumson@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 9:38 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 14:44:11 -0800



-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Heidi Fox wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> 
> I am unbelievably envious of all of your Halloween activities and
> costume-friendly events!  And your costumes sound divine! I was so
> disappointed in my Halloween weekend this year...I hope someone will tell
me
> I'm dead wrong on this one, but San Diego is just not a costume town! 

Heidi, you need to come north to West Hollywood's Halloween bash - I've
been several years and it's a real blast.

The LA Art Deco Society also did their Hollywood Cemetary tour again,
which I would have liked to go on but couldn't make this year. Maybe
next.

Carolyn
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

By the way, Kristina Harris has another pattern book on Dover.  It's
called "59 Authentic Turn-of-the-century Fashion Patterns" and is
#28357-7, a $10.95 paperback.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 13:54:40 1999
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To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Hi Kayta,

Yup, we drove through Hillcrest, and their Nightmare on Normal Street was
closing down at 11:30...  There were a few stragglers but we'll have to get
there earlier next time.

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows [mailto:kayta@slip.net]
Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 10:06 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 14:44:11 -0800 



-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

The same was true when we drove through one of the more
>"flambuoyant" areas of town; 

I hope you tried Hillcrest.  The costumes ought to have been spectacular
there.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'Julie Adams'" <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Cc: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: ICG
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 12:20:52 -0800 
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Hi Julie,

I too am mainly interested in historical costuming, though I like the
occasional fantasy event (my H'ween costume was a mermaid).  I am a member
of the Bay Area Guild and love their ideas, and want to get more events like
that going down here (I can't afford to fly up north for all of those
events!)  I would like to get more members involved who like the historical
aspect of costuming.  We are having a gathering on Saturday, November 13th
at the Pannikin (formerly the Javabar) on Adams Ave.  If you'd like to come,
e-mail me for more info!

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Julie Adams [mailto:savaskan@sd.znet.com]
Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 10:49 PM
To: Heidi Fox
Subject: ICG


>  I've
>been trying for several months to recruit people for the San Diego
>sub-chapter of the ICG and have not gotten an single response.

I might be interested. I was an ICG member for many years, but the LA crowd
wasn't doing anything I found particularly interesting and I let my
membership lapse.  I am only interested in historical costume.

 Julie Adams

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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Janice Dallas wrote:

> -Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
>
> By the way, Kristina Harris has another pattern book on Dover.  It's
> called "59 Authentic Turn-of-the-century Fashion Patterns" and is
> #28357-7, a $10.95 paperback.

We also published a pattern book from _The Voice of Fashion_ magazines,
which covers the years 1900 through 1906.  The title is _The Voice of
Fashion:  79 Turn-of-the-Century Patterns with Instructions and Fashion
Plates_.  This book is 463 pages and includes the original rulers used
for drafting the patterns (the measurements on all the _Voice of
Fashion_ magazine patterns belong to these rulers; they are not inch
measures).

We also published a companion title _The Edwardian Modiste_, covering
the years 1905 though 1909, which contains rulers for a similar system.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 14:21:25 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I must say that, as a pagan, I find it *vastly* amusing that the
fundamental churches are holding harvest festivals... especially since
for many of us Samhaine is the last of the three harvest festivals!
<grin>  I hope that Halloween continues in Nashville as it is currently
because I like being able to wear costumes for so many days...
especially since we stopped doing SCA.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 14:30:27 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 15:45:20 -0500
From: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>
Organization: The Curiosity Shop
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-Poster: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>

- -Poster: Marionetta@aol.com

> ...I'm going to Gettysburg this weekend and was wondering if anyone
had
> any idea where Miller's Bon Marche has moved to....

Beth Miller, the owner of Bon Marche closed her storefront a while back.
She is still doing custom sewing as far as I know, but found it too
costly for the return to maintain a storefront as well.

Also any other recommendations for costuming in Gettysburg?

I'm afraid it is easier to tell you who to avoid in Gettysburg than to
say who is good. :-( The most popular shops are generally the ones to
avoid if you care at all about historic accuracy. As you were asking
about Beth Miller I suspect accuracy is important to you. There are a
few new shops reportedly opening up there who *claim* to be very
accurate, but talk is cheap. :-( I would be very afraid of any shop that
stocks a lot of read to wear period clothing. Women's clothing of the
1860's was custom made to the wearer and off the rack just doesn't cut
it for accuracy unless you are one of those rare women who is built
exactly like the patterns...

BTW, I assume you're coming for Remembrance Day. If you are, contact me
off the list for details about a Sat. AM brunch for those on the
cw-reenactors list serve. We welcome new and potential list members as
well.

Glenna Jo Christen
gwjchris@rust.net
Visit our web site, "The Curiosity Shop"
http://www.rust.net/~gwjchris/


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 14:58:42 1999
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Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 16:11:44 EST
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/02/1999 1:18:44 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<< 
 Interresting that these two were made so close to each other, one in '22
 and the other in '31.  Now I'm going to have to watch the earlier one for
 costumes, as I have a copy of that too.
  >>

There is a 70s? [80s?] version based on "Nosferatu" and also called that. A 
German film [whose director's name has slipped my mind]. It is a little slow 
but beautifully costumed if I remember correctly. 1830-ish? [it's been a 
while since I saw it]. Anyway, it's on video now and worth seeing.
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 2 Nov 1999 Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:

> 
> In the US, you Brits and Europeans may be interested to know, this most 
> secular of holidays is being attacked right and left by Fundamentalists, who 
> insist that its pagan roots are really evil and that it's "Satan's holiday," 
> etc., etc., etc. My sister is a teacher in a public school that had to 
> eliminate all Halloween activities because of some nutsy (my opinion!) 
> parents. Lots of fundamentalist churches have "harvest festivals" to keep the 
> kids off the streets with Satan. I have given up trying to explain that if 
When I was a kiddie our Catholic Church in England had a harvest
festival already, albeit earlier in the year. Everyone would bring
fruit, veggies or other produce to the church and after mass it was
sold to raise money for the church.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>I must say that, as a pagan, I find it *vastly* amusing that the
>fundamental churches are holding harvest festivals... especially since
>for many of us Samhaine is the last of the three harvest festivals!
><grin>  I hope that Halloween continues in Nashville as it is currently
>because I like being able to wear costumes for so many days...
>especially since we stopped doing SCA.
>
>Kat

Not being pagan myself I didn't think I should say anything. But my pagan
friends have been laughing at this fundamental wierdness for years, too.
Luckily for me there aren't many of these types where I live so we've had a
fun holliday and my high functioning autistic daughter finally got it this
year and had a great time screaming Trick or Treat. It's taken her three
years. She loves dressing up too so this holliday was particularly exciting
for her.

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 15:58:15 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 16:10:37 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Karalee Larsen Pugmire wrote:
> 
> Not being pagan myself I didn't think I should say anything. But my
> pagan friends have been laughing at this fundamental wierdness for
> years, too.

For me, it's not that they're weird... but that to get rid of
celebrating a 'pagan' holiday, they substitute another pagan holiday.

> Luckily for me there aren't many of these types where I live so we've
> had a fun holliday and my high functioning autistic daughter finally
> got it this year and had a great time screaming Trick or Treat. It's
> taken her three years. She loves dressing up too so this holliday was
> particularly exciting for her.

That's wonderful!!!  What did she wear?

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 16:47:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 17:56:37 -0500
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: Halloween UK
To: "INTERNET:h-costume-digest@indra.com" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

>In Scotland there's the tradition of "guising", which has got sort of
mixed between Halloween and Guy Fawkes, I think - children dress up in
scary costumes and go round with a Guy on a cart (or "guider") asking
for money (originally to buy fireworks, but probably nowadays they can
only spend it on sweets)

Guising, was far more common than just Scotland & the youth of the area
took part, it was quite rowdy in that laws were from time to time passed
against it !

Mel
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Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 15:38:22 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: old Vampire movie costume
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 11/02/1999 1:18:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>kayta@slip.net writes:
> >Interresting that these two were made so close to each other, one in '22
> > and the other in '31.  Now I'm going to have to watch the earlier one for
> > costumes, as I have a copy of that too.
>
>There is a 70s? [80s?] version based on "Nosferatu" and also called that. A
>German film [whose director's name has slipped my mind]. It is a little slow
>but beautifully costumed if I remember correctly. 1830-ish? [it's been a
>while since I saw it]. Anyway, it's on video now and worth seeing.

I mentioned it in my first post, in one of the old Halloween costume 
threads. OK, to dredge it up, here's what i said, in case anyone else 
missed it and is curious...

quoting myself:

My favorite vampire movie is the 1922 silent film "Nosferatu" by F.W. 
Murnau. I think it has the creepiest vampire. Doesn't contain any of 
the typical American vampire cliches.

Werner Herzog "remade" it in 1979 starring Klaus Kinski as the 
vampire, and Isabelle Adjani (i'd follow her anywhere :-). Herzog 
followed the original very closely - although there was speaking (but 
not a whole lot) and it was in color - but i still prefer the silent 
original.

It's also great with the music composed for it by the Club Foot 
Orchestra, as they have for "The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari" and 
"Metropolis", a couple more of my favorite movies.

(i've never seen "Vampyr" the 1931 Carl-Theodor Dreyer film... anyone?)

(and i still have a soft spot (or is that two soft spots side by side 
on my neck) for the Bela Lugosi Dracula)

Lilinah
ok, so it's not a costume topic

(end quote of myself)

And i'm still curious about Dreyer's film - if anyone has seen it, 
comments, please?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  2 19:36:09 1999
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From: "christianna del Oro" <chritikat@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject:  H-COST: please help!
Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 17:48:19 PST
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-Poster: "christianna del Oro" <chritikat@hotmail.com>


hi i really need some help with these questions.  i would appericate any 
help i can get thanks

>
>        first anyone know any good online sources for  italian ren 
>patterns?
>  i had a overdress that just tied ( one ribbon tie) in front to hold it
>closed it had  2 or 3 part sleeves chained to it.it had a relativly short
>bodice ending around the bottom of the breasts and it had a full pleated
>bottom.  It looked like it would be relativly easy too make i can't get a
>hold of the person who loaned it too me for lender garb, and  i have been
>told it has since disapeared from sight.  i would really like to get the
>pattern or source for it.
>
>
>      second i need tips on making a dove gray very soft suede jacket into 
>a
>womens bodice? i guess i'll have use rivets for the holes
>
>        third does anyone know what happened to the sca site at kumc.edu
>????
>
         and fourth  i have a box of  giest sewing aids i think # 4 or 6  i 
need instructions for them or a web site for instructions


                     THANKS!!!!!!          >

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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

The Purple Elephant wrote:
> 
> -Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
> 
> On Tue, 2 Nov 1999 Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >
> > In the US, you Brits and Europeans may be interested to know, this most
> > secular of holidays is being attacked right and left by Fundamentalists, who
> > insist that its pagan roots are really evil and that it's "Satan's holiday,"
> > etc., etc., etc. My sister is a teacher in a public school that had to
> > eliminate all Halloween activities because of some nutsy (my opinion!)
> > parents. Lots of fundamentalist churches have "harvest festivals" to keep the

Witches weren't Satan worshippers anyway. Some people are just
wet blankets. (When I was a kid I resented the fact that we had
to get up and go to Mass the next morning. Before school!)

It's a bit early for harvest here, it was about 80 degrees on
Sunday so we burned the sacrificial meat. And the tomatoes are
doing very nicely thank you! (after a cold weird summer)

Nothing to do with costume, just compelled to chime in.

Susan F.
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov  3 02:23:21 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 00:37:48 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Kate wrote:

> Kerrie's explanation is slightly misleading in that All Saints' Day is the
> day *after* Samhain, not a replacement for it (hence Hallowe'en = All Hallows'
> Eve). The idea is that the evil spirits have their fling the night before
> the holy day.

Well, not exactly. Once upon a time, the day started at sundown. (It still
does for those of the Jewish faith.) Thus, All Hallow's Eve was the evening
portion of All Hallow's (or All Saints') which continued until the next
sundown. This also explains Christmas Eve being the night before Christmas and
New Year's Eve being the night before the new year begins.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Kat wrote:

> I must say that, as a pagan, I find it *vastly* amusing that the fundamental
> churches are holding harvest festivals... especially since for many of us
> Samhaine is the last of the three harvest festivals! <grin>

Around here there is a big born-again revival meeting at the local baseball
stadium in mid July. They have the nerve to call it "Harvest Crusade", which
really bothers me when I see the bumper stickers all over town. I'm thinking
of printing bumper stickers with nice Arabic script and the words "Autumn Jihad".
;-)

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov  3 02:57:47 1999
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I don't know any fundamentalists, but here in England most mainstream churches hold a harvest festival one Sunday in September. The tradition only goes back to Victorian times, but it has no connection with Hallowe'en that I've ever heard of. What's weird about wanting to thank God for our food?

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Harvest Festival (OT)
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Kate wrote:

> I don't know any fundamentalists, but here in England most mainstream churches
> hold a harvest festival one Sunday in September. The tradition only goes back
> to Victorian times, but it has no connection with Hallowe'en that I've ever
> heard of. What's weird about wanting to thank God for our food?

I don't object to a harvest festival, but this one is held in mid-July.
(Hardly the time of harvest.) What bothers me is calling it a Crusade without
being sensitive to the facts of what a crusade really means. Or is the
medievalist in me just over-reacting?

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Halloween in the UK
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Well, I have no objection to something catching on that allows for 
more opportunities for wearing costume/costuming.  My concerns 
over the Trick-or-treat thing are mainly to do with it being *partly* 
adopted.

I've experienced gangs of 14 ir 15 year olds, some with a bit of 
make up or a cheap plastic mask, turning up on the doorstep "trick-
or-treating"

Most households (certainly in areas where I've lived) don't *expect* 
it and probably haven't given it enough thought to plan having 
sweets available to give out.  These kids seem to be relying on 
that, and the fact that some people will be foolish enough to give 
them money instead of sending them away empty handed.

Some people (particularly old people and those living alone) can 
find a group of teenagers "begging" at the door very intimidating.  A 
lot of pensioners couldn't afford to buy sweets to give out, let alone 
hand out cash at the door and some are soft-hearted enough to 
think that they *ought* to.

If it was under twelves, accompanied by a "responsible" adult or 
older teenager to see they didn't bother anyone inappropriate, then 
I'd have no objections, but it's not something we have the 
background of experience of.  Halloween themed parties and the 
activities that go with them have been around for years (more 
common in some areas than others, but they've been happening) 
but this incomplete trickling in of the American Trick-or-treat 
thing... I dunno, but it's not well received among a lot of the people I 
know and seems more likely to get the reaction of not answering 
the door, or making sure that you aren't at home, if anyone bothers 
to plan for it at all.

Goodness, where *did* that soap-box come from?!


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 11:21:39 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Halloween in the UK
In-reply-to: <199911022006.NAA05846@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Penny

> Hi Teddy,
> 
> Plan to pack up your costumes and come visit me next Halloween here in
> the States.  You'll have a Great time!
> 
> Later... Penny

Thansk for the invite!  Don't I just wish I could afford to come over to 
the US again.  This year we scraped together enough to go for a 
lonf weekend in Sweden to visit friends there (Tomorow lunchtime 
until Tuesday)  but that's a short and (relatively) inexpensive 
journey.

Tom wants us to try for Costume Con 2000, but I have my doubts 
about being able to afford travel, let alone accomodation as well.  
Especially as we are currently (at last) applying for planning 
permission to build the extension to the house so we can have a 
sewing room and fabric/costume store-room.  If permission is 
granted the work will be taking place around March/April and it's 
going to be *expensive*... travel might be right out for several years. 
 We've already had to drop the plans for remodelling the kitchen 
and bathroom until we see how much the final bill for the building 
work will be.




Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Tee Hee! "Autumn Jihad". Very clever Deitmar.You print them up--and I'll want 
one.
albra
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 07:56:20 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Harvest Festival (OT)
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

KATE M BUNTING wrote:
> 
> I don't know any fundamentalists, but here in England most mainstream
> churches hold a harvest festival one Sunday in September. The
> tradition only goes back to Victorian times, but it has no connection
> with Hallowe'en that I've ever heard of. What's weird about wanting to
> thank God for our food?

Absolutely nothing... I thank the Gods for my food at least four times a
year (Lammas, Mabon, Samhaine & Thanksgiving).  What I find odd is that
they are claiming that Halloween is a pagan ritual (in their eyes, "of
the devil") and turning around to adopt *another* pagan ritual.  I know
of no traditional American Harvest Festivals other than Thanksgiving (in
November).

Kat
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Humour!
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:19:39 -0500
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_013F_01BF25DC.8E347AA0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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MabelHi Everyone!
This posting may be slightly ot, but I hope you'll all forgive me!  This =
arrived in my mail today and I immediately thought of some of the folks =
here. ;-)

Hope it gives you a smile for the day.
--Kerrie

14 Great Reasons To Buy More Fabric!
>=20
> 1. Because I'm worth it!
>=20
> 2. It insulates the closet where it is kept.
>=20
> 3. It helps keep the economy going.
>=20
> 4. It is less expensive and more fun than psychiatric care.
>=20
> 5. Because it is on sale.
>=20
> 6. The one with the most fabric wins!
>=20
> 7. It keeps without refrigeration, you don't cook it, feed it, change =
it,
> wipe it or walk it.
>=20
> 8. You need extra weight for traction in winter.  This is very =
important.
>=20
> 9. Because I'm worth it!
>=20
> 10. It protects empty spaces like the ironing board, laundry hamper =
and
> dining room table.
>=20
> 11. Stress from dealing with the fabric control officer [my husband] =
made me
> do it.
>=20
> 12. It is not illegal or fattening.
>=20
> 13. Buy it before your husband retires, and goes with you when you =
shop.
>=20
> 14. Because I'm worth it!
>=20
>   I hope this offends no one...let me tell you why it is funny to =
me...Nana
> just sent 22 bolts of fabric up here and she has at least 50 more to
> send...she has 2 cabinets with lace by the bolt and a triple closet =
with
> yard goods....now she hardly sews and just ordered more....so John =
uses
> humor with her and he loved this~!
>=20
> "A woman was near death and insisted that she be buried with her =
fabric
> stash.  Her kids thought she was crazy but they complied and the =
lady's
> coffin was filled with her most favorite fabrics.  After she passed =
on, she
> found herself in a beautiful, mystical place, and was surrounded by =
other
> women.  Each one was at a sewing table admiring bolts of beautiful =
fabric.
> As far as the eye could see, beautiful bolts of fabric.  Overjoyed, =
the
> woman approached a lady at one of the sewing tables, who was admiring =
a
> gorgeous silk.  She said--"This is a beautiful place, it must be =
heaven!!"
> The lady seated at the table replied-- "No, this is hell, there aren't =
any
> scissors."




------=_NextPart_000_013F_01BF25DC.8E347AA0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Mabel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"">
<DIV align=3Dleft>Hi Everyone!</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>This posting&nbsp;may be slightly ot, but I hope =
you'll all=20
forgive me!&nbsp; This arrived in my mail today and I immediately =
thought of=20
some of the folks here. ;-)</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>Hope it gives you a smile for the day.</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>--Kerrie</DIV>
<P></P>
<DIV>14 Great Reasons To Buy More Fabric!<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; 1. Because =
I'm worth=20
it!<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; 2. It insulates the closet where it is =
kept.<BR>&gt;=20
<BR>&gt; 3. It helps keep the economy going.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; 4. It is =
less=20
expensive and more fun than psychiatric care.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; 5. =
Because it is=20
on sale.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; 6. The one with the most fabric wins!<BR>&gt; =
<BR>&gt;=20
7. It keeps without refrigeration, you don't cook it, feed it, change=20
it,<BR>&gt; wipe it or walk it.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; 8. You need extra =
weight for=20
traction in winter.&nbsp; This is very important.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; 9. =
Because=20
I'm worth it!<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; 10. It protects empty spaces like the =
ironing=20
board, laundry hamper and<BR>&gt; dining room table.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; =
11. Stress=20
from dealing with the fabric control officer [my husband] made =
me<BR>&gt; do=20
it.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; 12. It is not illegal or fattening.<BR>&gt; =
<BR>&gt; 13.=20
Buy it before your husband retires, and goes with you when you =
shop.<BR>&gt;=20
<BR>&gt; 14. Because I'm worth it!<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp; I hope =
this=20
offends no one...let me tell you why it is funny to me...Nana<BR>&gt; =
just sent=20
22 bolts of fabric up here and she has at least 50 more to<BR>&gt; =
send...she=20
has 2 cabinets with lace by the bolt and a triple closet with<BR>&gt; =
yard=20
goods....now she hardly sews and just ordered more....so John =
uses<BR>&gt; humor=20
with her and he loved this~!<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; "A woman was near death =
and=20
insisted that she be buried with her fabric<BR>&gt; stash.&nbsp; Her =
kids=20
thought she was crazy but they complied and the lady's<BR>&gt; coffin =
was filled=20
with her most favorite fabrics.&nbsp; After she passed on, she<BR>&gt; =
found=20
herself in a beautiful, mystical place, and was surrounded by =
other<BR>&gt;=20
women.&nbsp; Each one was at a sewing table admiring bolts of beautiful=20
fabric.<BR>&gt; As far as the eye could see, beautiful bolts of =
fabric.&nbsp;=20
Overjoyed, the<BR>&gt; woman approached a lady at one of the sewing =
tables, who=20
was admiring a<BR>&gt; gorgeous silk.&nbsp; She said--"This is a =
beautiful=20
place, it must be heaven!!"<BR>&gt; The lady seated at the table =
replied-- "No,=20
this is hell, there aren't any<BR>&gt; scissors."<BR></DIV>
<P></P>
<CENTER>&nbsp;</CENTER></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_013F_01BF25DC.8E347AA0--

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Harvest Festival (OT)
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 11/3/99 2:29:09 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
dietmar@pacbell.net writes:

<< I don't object to a harvest festival, but this one is held in mid-July.
 (Hardly the time of harvest.) What bothers me is calling it a Crusade without
 being sensitive to the facts of what a crusade really means. Or is the
 medievalist in me just over-reacting?
  >>
 I think they're referring to the harvesting of souls not of food.  There are 
several metaphors in the Bible relating to this.  Wish some of them would 
read it more thoroughly and find the "pagan" parts.  Cheryl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov  3 08:48:21 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Harvest Festival (OT)
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

>   >>
>  I think they're referring to the harvesting of souls not of food.  There are 
> several metaphors in the Bible relating to this.  Wish some of them would 
> read it more thoroughly and find the "pagan" parts.  Cheryl

Me too.  The Bible's a fascinating conglomeration of several cultures'
traditional stories.  I especially like the flood part, nabbed straight
from Gilgamesh.

Drea

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-Poster: ben@hrofi.demon.co.uk

On Wed, 03 Nov 1999 09:11:57 +0000, you wrote:

>
>-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
>
>I don't know any fundamentalists, but here in England most mainstream churches hold a harvest festival one Sunday in September. The tradition only goes back to Victorian times, but it has no connection with Hallowe'en that I've ever heard of. What's weird about wanting to thank God for our food?
>
Actually, it was revived in Victorian times - the urge to thang God or
the Gods for food goes much further back.  Apparently this festival
comes from the old Germanic (Anglo-Saxon) Pagan faith, many elements
of which relating to harvest festivities continued on well into the
18th century, and were then revived in the 19th.  Part of the
Anglo-Saxon ritual appears to have been taking offerings from the
harvest to the shrine of the Earth goddess, Nerthus (and apparently
after the conversion many carried this tradition on taking the harvest
to a Christian Church).  We also know a little more about early
Germanic harvest festivals and how they carried on...

September was Halig-monaþ (holy month), the month of festivals in
honour of Nerthus in her aspect as giver. This is the festival for
which we have the best idea of the ritual, as Tacitus devotes a
chapter of Germania to this festival, common to all the Germanic
tribes:

'They worship in common Nerthus, that is the Earth Mother, and believe
she intervenes in human affairs and goes on progress through the
tribes. There is a sacred grove on an island of the ocean, and in the
grove is a consecrated wagon covered with a cloth. Only one priest is
allowed to touch it; he understands when the goddess is present in her
shrine and follows with profound reverence when she is drawn away by
cows. Then there are days of rejoicing: the places she considers
worthy to entertain her [i.e. the places where the cows pulling the
driverless wagon choose to stop] keep holiday. They do not go to war,
do not use weapons, all iron is shut away - peace and quiet is much
esteemed and loved at that time - until the same priest returns the
goddess to her sanctuary when she has had enough of human company.
Directly the wagon, the covering cloth and, if you like to believe
this, the goddess herself, are washed in a secluded lake. Slaves are
the ministers; immediately the same lake swallows them. [They are
drowned as soon as they have finished their tasks as lay folk may not
see or touch the goddess and live] From this arises a mysterious
terror and a pious ignorance about what that may be, which is only
seen by those about to die.' 

We also know that the sheaf was also a symbol of the goddess (the
origin of the corn-dolly), and it seems that even after the conversion
this ritual had not been forgotten. In September 1598 a German visitor
travelling to Eton describes a country ritual he witnessed:

 'We were returning to our lodging house; by lucky chance we fell in
with the country-folk, celebrating their harvest home. The last sheaf
had been crowned with flowers and they had attached it to a
magnificently robed image, which perhaps they meant to represent Ceres
[Ceres was the Roman name for a goddess of the fruitful earth and the
harvest, and a much more widely known deity than Nerthus in the 16th
century] They carried her hither and thither with much noise; men and
women were sitting together on the wagon, men-servants and
maid-servants shouting through the streets until they come to the
barn.'

About 1,000 years after the conversion, the English still had a
goddess of the fruitful earth, still riding a wagon, making random
progress amidst public rejoicing. Servant-ministers were in
attendance, although in the September of 1598 they were on their way
to a more cheerful and less final end to the ceremonies.
 Even as late as the end of the 18th century, the antiquarian William
Hutchinson reported meeting the Harvest Queen in Northumberland:

 'I have seen in some places an image apparelled in great finery,
crowned with flowers, a sheaf of corn placed under her arm and a
scythe in her hand, carried out of the village in the morning of the
concluding reaping day, with music and much clamour of the reapers,
into the field where it stands fixed to a pole all day, and when the
reaping is done it is brought home in like manner. This they call the
Harvest Queen and it represents the Roman Ceres. [To classically
educated scholars from one end of Europe to the other, all the old
gods appeared in their Roman forms.]'


It also seems that the Anglo-Saxons kept the grain from the last sheaf
of corn, and in springtime made small cakes from it, of which some
were eaten by the community and others were buried in the fields
before sowing as an offering to the spring goddess (Eostre or Ostara -
who gives her name to Easter) and these cakes may be the origin of hot
cross buns!

Ben
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Subject: H-COST: Costume Con and ???
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-Poster: STRAUSS@WCUVAX1.WCU.EDU

I wish Costume Con and Horror Con (and throw in USITT!) could be
same time/same place. Now that would be "interesting."

Bob

====================================================================
Bob Strauss                                      Cataloger
Hunter Library                                   Western Carolina U.
strauss@wcu.edu
Class home page:    http://www3.wcu.edu/~strauss
Personal home page: http://www3.wcu.edu/~strauss/personal
====================================================================
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov  3 09:29:58 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Vince Lyons wrote:
> 
<snip all the other great stuff!!>
> > The lady seated at the table replied-- "No, this is hell, there
> > aren't any scissors."

I've heard this last one before... and remarked that I had teeth and
arms for a reason!!

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov  3 09:30:53 1999
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-Poster: Elizabeth Lear <eliz>


Hi all,

Please remember we're here to discuss historic costuming.  I let the
Halloween costume thread go on since it seemed vaguely related, but
now that we've digressed into religion it's time to move this
discussion off the h-costume mailing list.

Thanks,
					...eliz, list admin

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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

> I'm thinking
> of printing bumper stickers with nice Arabic script and the words "Autumn
Jihad".
> ;-)
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Dietmar

*BWA-HA-HA-HA!*
I want one! I want one! 
And think of the potential for an on-stage presentation that would make.
(See, I brought this back to costuming after all! Now, to work in the
Historical . . .)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Humour!
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Aack!  I could hear myself using every one of those reasons!  I am in a
strict budget these days, and I dipped into my grocery money this month
because I found this divine peacock blue silk taffeta that would make a
gorgeous 1880's ball gown...but it was on SALE (my only defense)!  And
ramen's not so bad...
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Vince Lyons [mailto:vjlyons@snip.net]
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 6:20 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Humour!


Hi Everyone!
This posting may be slightly ot, but I hope you'll all forgive me!  This
arrived in my mail today and I immediately thought of some of the folks
here. ;-)
 
Hope it gives you a smile for the day.
--Kerrie

14 Great Reasons To Buy More Fabric!
> 
> 1. Because I'm worth it!
> 
> 2. It insulates the closet where it is kept.
> 
> 3. It helps keep the economy going.
> 
> 4. It is less expensive and more fun than psychiatric care.
> 
> 5. Because it is on sale.
> 
> 6. The one with the most fabric wins!
> 
> 7. It keeps without refrigeration, you don't cook it, feed it, change it,
> wipe it or walk it.
> 
> 8. You need extra weight for traction in winter.  This is very important.
> 
> 9. Because I'm worth it!
> 
> 10. It protects empty spaces like the ironing board, laundry hamper and
> dining room table.
> 
> 11. Stress from dealing with the fabric control officer [my husband] made
me
> do it.
> 
> 12. It is not illegal or fattening.
> 
> 13. Buy it before your husband retires, and goes with you when you shop.
> 
> 14. Because I'm worth it!
> 
>   I hope this offends no one...let me tell you why it is funny to
me...Nana
> just sent 22 bolts of fabric up here and she has at least 50 more to
> send...she has 2 cabinets with lace by the bolt and a triple closet with
> yard goods....now she hardly sews and just ordered more....so John uses
> humor with her and he loved this~!
> 
> "A woman was near death and insisted that she be buried with her fabric
> stash.  Her kids thought she was crazy but they complied and the lady's
> coffin was filled with her most favorite fabrics.  After she passed on,
she
> found herself in a beautiful, mystical place, and was surrounded by other
> women.  Each one was at a sewing table admiring bolts of beautiful fabric.
> As far as the eye could see, beautiful bolts of fabric.  Overjoyed, the
> woman approached a lady at one of the sewing tables, who was admiring a
> gorgeous silk.  She said--"This is a beautiful place, it must be heaven!!"
> The lady seated at the table replied-- "No, this is hell, there aren't any
> scissors."


 
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Harvest Festival (OT)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:26:43 -0800
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Touche'  !!!


-----Original Message-----
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 6:59 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Harvest Festival (OT)


>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>KATE M BUNTING wrote:
>> 
>> I don't know any fundamentalists, but here in England most mainstream
>> churches hold a harvest festival one Sunday in September. The
>> tradition only goes back to Victorian times, but it has no connection
>> with Hallowe'en that I've ever heard of. What's weird about wanting to
>> thank God for our food?
>
>Absolutely nothing... I thank the Gods for my food at least four times a
>year (Lammas, Mabon, Samhaine & Thanksgiving).  What I find odd is that
>they are claiming that Halloween is a pagan ritual (in their eyes, "of
>the devil") and turning around to adopt *another* pagan ritual.  I know
>of no traditional American Harvest Festivals other than Thanksgiving (in
>November).
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
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>

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: History of Beauty
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 12:38:18 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

A friend of mine has just opened her website on the history of beauty called
Jolique, http://www.jolique.com/ .  The author of the site has a BA in art
history and has an interesting series of articles on her website that
combines her love of art history and costume.  This month, she is discussing
the history of body shaving, curling hair, makeup, and tatooing.  She will
be changing the articles so you might want to print them out for safe
keeping.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov  3 11:59:28 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: OT: Pictures
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 10:19:47 -0800
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

I have posted my Halloween pictures at:

http://www.softcom.net/users/unicorn/pictures.htm

However, this does pertain somewhat to historical costuming.  The flying
ghost is wearing a white Edwardian number; the fortune teller in black, off
to the right, is wearing a black, vintage blouse, circa. 1900-1905 and black
vintage skirt, circa 1905.  The Crypt Keeper on the left is wearing a
pseudo-Monk's robe and hood ;).

I, am wearing a dress I created using Simplicity Retro 40s pattern #8643.  I
simply changed the neckline and added long, trumpet sleeves.

Enjoy!


Joan Broneske
unicorn@softcom.net
@-->----------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov  3 14:04:33 1999
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From: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.6bf8a21.254623ee@aol.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costume books and Patterns on Ebay
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 15:25:22 -0500
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-Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>

I am cleaning out my house in preparation for a big move.  I have listed
several costuming books and patterns including 2 Period Patterns (#41 and
#46) on Ebay for those interested.  The link below will list all the items I
am selling.

http://cgi3.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewListedItems&us
erid=pence1@earthlink.net&include=0&since=-1&sort=2&rows=25

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov  3 14:30:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 12:59:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Martha McCain <mmccain_2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Corset terminology
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-Poster: Martha McCain <mmccain_2000@yahoo.com>


I’m writing instructions for making a mid nineteenth
century corset and I’d like to get the terminology
correct. The front clasp – or busk – has two sides:
one is loops and the other is knobs. What do you
REALLY call the knobs and loops?

I’ve looked high and low for this. If anyone knows,
could you also share your source with me?

Thanks a lot.

Martha McCain


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 12:59 PM 11/03/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Martha McCain <mmccain_2000@yahoo.com>
>
>
>I’m writing instructions for making a mid nineteenth
>century corset and I’d like to get the terminology
>correct. The front clasp – or busk – has two sides:
>one is loops and the other is knobs. What do you
>REALLY call the knobs and loops?

I've always heard them called loops and studs.

Margo


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Subject: RE: H-COST: Humour!
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Aack!  I could hear myself using every one of those reasons!  I am in a
>strict budget these days, and I dipped into my grocery money this month
>because I found this divine peacock blue silk taffeta that would make a
>gorgeous 1880's ball gown...but it was on SALE (my only defense)!  And
>ramen's not so bad...

I heard a joke about a man in Las Vegas begging for money.  He pleaded that
he needed the money to buy food because his family was going hungry, he
needed to pay the bills, etc.  The person he was pleading with said no
because he was afraid the man would just use the money for gambling.  The
man reassured the person that he wouldn't because he already had money for
gambling.  (BTW, sometimes we eat a lot of ramen after fabric sales too.)


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov  3 17:24:15 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Harvest Festival (OT)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 15:54:06 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>




>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>Me too.  The Bible's a fascinating conglomeration of several cultures'
>traditional stories.  I especially like the flood part, nabbed straight
>from Gilgamesh.
>
>Drea


Yeah, or the part about Eve and the apple....looks like Persephone and the
pomegranite.
    I am taking a mythology class in college and almost everything looks
like something else.
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov  3 21:13:01 1999
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From: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.6bf8a21.254623ee@aol.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costume Books and Patterns on Ebay
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 22:33:52 -0500
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-Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>

<<My browser got an error with your link. What catagories are they listed
under?

The books are under general books and patterns under general misc.  It would
be much quicker to go to the search by seller and enter pence1@earthlink.net
This will bring up all the items I am selling.  If you have more problems,
feel free to email me privately.

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Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 00:34:28 EST
Subject: H-COST: Tourist hints for Dallas, Fort Worth
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

I am off to Texas next week for 6 days and would like recommendations for 
what to see (art, sculpture, theatre, exhibits) and where to shop for 
fabrics/ antique clothes.

Responses not dealing with costume topics can be sent to me directly if you 
wish.

Joan McTeer
Minneapolis
JPMcTeer@aol.com
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From: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.429fd745.255274e4@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tourist hints for Dallas, Fort Worth
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 22:47:10 -0600
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-Poster: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>

There is a fabric shopping site for the DFW area,

http://ares.redsword.com/dduperault/stores.htm

The bible museum always has real cool illuminations, so does SMU's museum.
There is an arboretum in Fair Park that is just beautiful! I think that the
butterflies are still there. They only last a few weeks then they turn into
cocoons. There is a Dallas Zoo, a Fort Worth Zoo, and of course the
Galleria.

I work at the Info Mart, it is the replica of the Crystal Palace. It has
huge wall size prints of paintings made at the World's Fair during Albert
and Victoria's reign. Lots of costume depictions from around the world as
well as items in general, very beautiful. If you are going to be driving
around I highly encourage you to tune into KRLD, am 1080, they are the only
ones that will give you traffic reports every 10 minutes including
Saturdays. There are quite a few of us from the area on this list so if you
need help getting around just buzz one of us. :)

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: <JPMcTeer@aol.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 11:34 PM
Subject: H-COST: Tourist hints for Dallas, Fort Worth


>
> -Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com
>
> I am off to Texas next week for 6 days and would like recommendations for
> what to see (art, sculpture, theatre, exhibits) and where to shop for
> fabrics/ antique clothes.
>
> Responses not dealing with costume topics can be sent to me directly if
you
> wish.
>
> Joan McTeer
> Minneapolis
> JPMcTeer@aol.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 07:33:52 1999
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From: Martha McCain <mmccain_2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Corset terminology
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-Poster: Martha McCain <mmccain_2000@yahoo.com>

Thank you, Margo.  I'll go with loops and studs unless
somebody comes up with something more difinitive.  I
phoned a "learned institution" and was told they call
them do-hickeys....

Martha


=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 09:02:26 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costume Con and ???
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 02:13:37 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> I wish Costume Con and Horror Con (and throw in USITT!) could be
> same time/same place. Now that would be "interesting."

Ha, you ever tried running a con? You instantly get horror when you search
for volunteers.

-C.
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

set digest
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 13:46:25 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 12:02:23 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Retro 8640
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

http://simplicity.com/853/8640.htm

Well.. I was wondering approx what time period this would be. I know I've
seen something similar in old photos or something, and it's got me curious
:] I was also wondering what type of foundation garments the women would
have been wearing under this style.

I realize that this pattern is probably not accurate, but since I'm not
making it for the historical aspect, I don't really care :] I'm doing it it
chocolate poly wool, with black sandwash poly sleeves and inset. It's
looking fab, and I'm very pleased with the ease of putting the tunic together.

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 13:58:44 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Surf the Musee de Tissus
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 12:15:06 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Fabric junkies can while away a few minutes here looking at the pics of
vintage fabrics.
http://www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus/
Choose "images access".
You will be asked to promise no reproduction of the images, press
"acceptation".
Click "local images bank".
There are very few images yet, and the notes "Textiles informations" are in
french. 
I saw maybe 50, but they are pretty and good quality digital images, too.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Retro 8640
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> I realize that this pattern is probably not accurate, but since I'm not
> making it for the historical aspect, I don't really care :] I'm doing it
it
> chocolate poly wool, with black sandwash poly sleeves and inset. It's
> looking fab, and I'm very pleased with the ease of putting the tunic
together.
> 
> Kris

Yum! That sounds wonderful! I have this pattern as well, but haven't decided
if I want to make it out of velvet or silk or quilted Japanese print cotton
yet. Decisions, decisions!

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 14:36:58 1999
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From: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Simplicity Retro 8640
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 12:57:34 -0800 
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-Poster: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>

I think it's supposed to be faux-Titanic.  The staircase behind is the
giveaway.

-----Original Message-----
From: Kris [mailto:i.wonder@L7.net]
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 1999 3:02 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Simplicity Retro 8640



http://simplicity.com/853/8640.htm

Well.. I was wondering approx what time period this would be.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 14:40:40 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 12:33:43 -0800
From: Cindy Brown <cbrown@SISNET.SSKU.K12.CA.US>
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-Poster: Cindy Brown <cbrown@sisnet.ssku.k12.ca.us>

Hi, Kris...
    I used this pattern as a base for costuming a version of The Little Princess,
set in 1911-1912.  The styles at this time were quite diverse, and with the coming

of WWI dresses changed pretty radically.
    I used some old Delineators and other fashion journals from the 1906 - 1914
period to "date" this particular costume.
    Hope this helps!   Cindy Brown

Kris wrote:

> -Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
>
> http://simplicity.com/853/8640.htm
>
> Well.. I was wondering approx what time period this would be. I know I've
> seen something similar in old photos or something, and it's got me curious
> :] I was also wondering what type of foundation garments the women would
> have been wearing under this style.
>
> I realize that this pattern is probably not accurate, but since I'm not
> making it for the historical aspect, I don't really care :] I'm doing it it
> chocolate poly wool, with black sandwash poly sleeves and inset. It's
> looking fab, and I'm very pleased with the ease of putting the tunic together.
>
> Kris
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 15:04:33 1999
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From: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <EB55BCC162CAD111BD0A00A0C9979E3201BE1262@cvo1.cvo.roguewave.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Retro 8640
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 16:18:37 -0500
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-Poster: "Vince Lyons" <vjlyons@snip.net>


----- Original Message -----
From: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 1999 3:57 PM
>
> I think it's supposed to be faux-Titanic.  The staircase behind is the
> giveaway.
>

Yep, that's the Simplicity version of the blue velvet suit Rose wears in the
"I'm Flying" scene.  Actually it's one of their better reproductions too.
Turn the skirt gather toward the front, straighten out the sweetheart
neckline on the bodice,  it's a close match.  It should even be fairly
historically accurate for the 1900's as it was based on an original vintage
outfit.

I'm glad to hear it goes together nicely!  I may try this one when I get my
figure back after this baby arrives....(sometime near the *next* millennium)
;-)

Rapidly expanding,
Kerrie



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 15:31:39 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 16:47:04 -0500
Subject: H-COST: Pleats on Henry VIII jerkin?
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

Hello all,

I'm curious about what kind of pleats are used to attach the skirt to a Tudor jerkin, like the 
ones Henry VIII is wearing in various portraits:

http://tudor.simplenet.com/henry8/henryred2.jpg

http://tudor.simplenet.com/henry8/henry.jpg

The first portrait is Eworth's, and the pleats look (to my untrained eye) like cartridge pleats.
The second is Holbein's and the pleats there look like plain old knife pleats. They look 
flatter than the ones in Eworth's portrait. 

I'm using the men's Tudor Period Pattern as a basis to start from for the outfit I'm making. 
The pattern instructions simply say, pleat the skirt onto the jerkin using a pleating method 
of your choice (or something like that). How helpful!  =)  Anyone have any input or 
suggestions? I've never pleated anything before, but hey... why should that stop me?  =)

Thanks!
--Jessica
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 15:38:43 1999
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From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

I have mine partly made: the skirt is done and it is Daisy Kingdom's 
"Rose Lace" in pink voile over white eyelet with rose buds in the 
design.  I have tons of time as the wedding I was to finish it for 
turned into an elopement after the happy couple was refused a church 
ceremony on a technicality(!).  My best friend  hadn't eloped for her 
previous weddings and found it wonderfully romantic just to elope on 
the spur of the moment.  I told her maybe the previous weddings had 
been a jinx and since our dresses are classics, they won't date.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 15:43:05 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Pleats on Henry VIII jerkin?
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 13:56:43 -0800 
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

They are knife pleats with tapes to hold them in place.  If you like I can
send you a copy of the pattern from "History of Costume" It shows it much
better than I can explain it.

Yours Stephen Bergdahl

-----Original Message-----
From: Jessica Wilbur [mailto:jessica@pop.net]
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 1999 1:47 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Pleats on Henry VIII jerkin?



-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

Hello all,

I'm curious about what kind of pleats are used to attach the skirt to a
Tudor jerkin, like the 
ones Henry VIII is wearing in various portraits:

http://tudor.simplenet.com/henry8/henryred2.jpg

http://tudor.simplenet.com/henry8/henry.jpg

The first portrait is Eworth's, and the pleats look (to my untrained eye)
like cartridge pleats.
The second is Holbein's and the pleats there look like plain old knife
pleats. They look 
flatter than the ones in Eworth's portrait. 

I'm using the men's Tudor Period Pattern as a basis to start from for the
outfit I'm making. 
The pattern instructions simply say, pleat the skirt onto the jerkin using a
pleating method 
of your choice (or something like that). How helpful!  =)  Anyone have any
input or 
suggestions? I've never pleated anything before, but hey... why should that
stop me?  =)

Thanks!
--Jessica
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 17:19:34 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Retro 8640
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/04/1999 3:53:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
betsyp@roguewave.com writes:

<< 
 I think it's supposed to be faux-Titanic.  The staircase behind is the
 giveaway.
  >>

It's definitely teens but I wonder why they gave the illustration such a 
1930s look?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 17:21:01 1999
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Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 18:37:38 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Retro 8640
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/04/1999 3:53:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
betsyp@roguewave.com writes:

<< 
 I think it's supposed to be faux-Titanic.  The staircase behind is the
 giveaway.
  >>
Oops....forgot to answer you underpinning question. You'd wear a long 
straight front corset under this. Basically you want a monobosom....not two 
breasts...and slim hips.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 17:23:12 1999
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From: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Have to unsub
Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 23:37:11 GMT
Organization: The Corner of my Desk
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-Poster: rio@austin.rr.com (StrangeGirl)

Sorry to have to do this, as I know I'll miss lots of good stuff while
I'm gone, but I have to unsub for awhile (moving, life, etc)

Anyone who needs to, for whatever reason, can email me directly at
rio@austin.rr.com

Margery
"Do you have any files?"
"We're the government, of course we have files."
Millenium
{*to reply take spambegone from my reply-to address*}
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Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 15:26:13 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pleats on Henry VIII jerkin?
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>I'm curious about what kind of pleats are used to attach the skirt to a
>Tudor jerkin, like the
>ones Henry VIII is wearing in various portraits:
>
>http://tudor.simplenet.com/henry8/henryred2.jpg
>
Organ pipe pleats as shown in the existing bases in Blanche Payne and
Kohler, with a diagram in Blanche Payne's History of Costume FIRST edition.

>http://tudor.simplenet.com/henry8/henry.jpg

Knife pleats, but the skirt is still most likely cut on the round. Box and
knife pleats are both used in this period in addition to organ pipe pleats.

Julie Adams


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Subject: H-COST: New Corset from Chivalry Sports
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Has anyone else gotten the new Chivalry Sports Catalog yet?  If so, I'd like
to hear your opinions on the "Simple Boned Corset" on page 8, which they say
"combines features of both Victorian and Elizabethan corsets making it
appropriate for wear with either genre".

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 18:49:34 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: New Corset from Chivalry Sports
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 17:01:55 -0800 
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

I've seen it....And I feel it is one of the worst designed corsets I have
ever seen.  It's too curved to be a Elizabethan and too straight to be
Victorian.  No matter what you wear it under it's going to be wrong.  I am
sure it will sell, things like that always do.

Stephen Bergdahl

-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson [mailto:margo@directcon.net]
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 1999 4:53 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: New Corset from Chivalry Sports



-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Has anyone else gotten the new Chivalry Sports Catalog yet?  If so, I'd like
to hear your opinions on the "Simple Boned Corset" on page 8, which they say
"combines features of both Victorian and Elizabethan corsets making it
appropriate for wear with either genre".

Margo


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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 18:51:00 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: New Corset from Chivalry Sports
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 17:00:40 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Margo!  Just morbidly curious... How long did it take you to stop laughing
before you could actually get to the keyboard?


MaggiRos




A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net

Leap, and the net will appear.
	--Orson Wells

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Margo Anderson [SMTP:margo@directcon.net]
> Sent:	Friday, November 05, 1999 12:53 AM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	H-COST: New Corset from Chivalry Sports
> 
> 
> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> 
> Has anyone else gotten the new Chivalry Sports Catalog yet?  If so, I'd
> like
> to hear your opinions on the "Simple Boned Corset" on page 8, which they
> say
> "combines features of both Victorian and Elizabethan corsets making it
> appropriate for wear with either genre".
> 
> Margo
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 20:47:00 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 05:00 PM 11/04/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
>
>Margo!  Just morbidly curious... How long did it take you to stop laughing
>before you could actually get to the keyboard?
>
"Laughing?  Moi?  Oh no...(batting her eyes in ladylike innocence)  I just
assumed that when they said it was suitable for "either Victorian or
Renaissance" that they had mistakenly left out an "n".

Margo



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 20:51:51 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Ooh, the plot thickens...  My husband just took a look at this corset and he
thought it was a BR Creation.  BR is a company that markets to the "adult"
crowd, with very nicely made corsets with little attention paid to
historicality.  

It might be a close copy, or it could be that Chivalry Sports is reselling
BR corsets under their own name.  BR has had this sort of arrangements with
other companies, so I'm not intending to suggest that there's anything
illicit going on, just sloppy history.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 22:17:50 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 23:43:14 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com>
Subject: H-COST: Capes for Men
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-Poster: Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com>

  I guess I should introduce myself a bit first... My main cloth-related
creative outlet is making Puppets.  But I do some costumes as well - mostly
animal costumes.   I am joining this list to do some research for one
project I am working on.
  I have always wanted a cape for my own use. Now that I tour with a theater
company (One Way Productions - we do one-man biblical dramas) I will have
opportunity to wear some cold-weather gear.  I went shopping for coats today
(not alot of selection in So. Fla.) and was thinking about a trench coat and
found nothing I liked, so... I am thinking about hireing a local lady to sew
a cape for me.  I will need to provide her with a pattern, though.
  I have spent several hours on the internet searching for a pattern for ANY
man's coat, and come up empty handed. I even have visited several vintage
clothing sights that sold patterns, but apparently capes for men are not in
demand now.  When I joined this list, I had hoped the welcome message would
tell me about an archive I can use a find command on - but no such thing
apparently. (tell me if I am wrong) Which now leaves me to directly asking
you folks.

  I want a pattern for a men's cape.  I am not knowledgable about period
clothing, but here are some of the things I am wanting for the coat, and
maybe someone can tell me about the type of cape I am looking for.
  Since wearing a cape is a bit outlandish, I would rather the cape be a
solid dark color and not highly decorative.  The only cape I can picture in
my head is Shirlock Holmes' cape, but perhaps other styles would be
appropriate.  I do want to be able to stick my arms out when the cape is
closed - I am definitely not fond of cold weather and really want to use the
coat to keep warm.  Any suggestions?

  One more thing... I would like to line the coat with a material that
reflects heat.  I.e. a radiant heat barrier.  Shiney mylar is one such
material, but I have seen knit gloves advertised that had this features as
well.  So, apparently some cloth is manufactured with this feature - can
anyone recommend a source for this?

Joe Dunfee,  joe@dunfee.com
Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 22:40:06 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Interesting Website
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 00:00:36 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I found this website tonight called The Tsar Village,
http://homepages.go.com/~jediguin/tsar.html  It has some really nice
photographs of the Russian Royality.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 22:45:33 1999
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Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 00:02:17 EST
Subject: H-COST: Good instructions for Organ pleats
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com

Could someone direct me to good written and visual instructions on how to do 
organ pleats?

Yours gratefully,
Pattie Rayl
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From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Retro 8640
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 11/04/1999 3:53:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
>betsyp@roguewave.com writes:
>
><< 
> I think it's supposed to be faux-Titanic.  The staircase behind is the
> giveaway.
>  >>
>Oops....forgot to answer you underpinning question. You'd wear a long 
>straight front corset under this. Basically you want a monobosom....not two 
>breasts...and slim hips.

Ack! That's what I thought, and it's definately not going to happen! :]
Oh well, as I said, it shall be a wonderful thing to wear for the.. oh..
Work Christmas Party.. maybe.. if I don't wear it before then :]

Kris

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Simplicity Retro 8640
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 21:44:09 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
>
>Yum! That sounds wonderful! I have this pattern as well, but haven't
decided
>if I want to make it out of velvet or silk or quilted Japanese print cotton
>yet. Decisions, decisions!
>
>Kate


I loved this pattern, too!  So much that I bought it in a couple of sizes.
I haven't made it yet for the same reasons as you.  I guess I am waiting for
the fabric to scream at me.
Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Surf the Musee de Tissus
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 21:53:28 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
>
>
>Fabric junkies can while away a few minutes here looking at the pics of
>vintage fabrics.
>http://www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus/


  That was fun. Thanks Cynthia, for sharing your find.
Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Corset from Chivalry Sports
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:07:18 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Has anyone else gotten the new Chivalry Sports Catalog yet?  If so, I'd
like
>to hear your opinions on the "Simple Boned Corset" on page 8, which they
say
>"combines features of both Victorian and Elizabethan corsets making it
>appropriate for wear with either genre".
>
>Margo

  Oh, yeah, isn't that the one that was cut lower than a 'wench' bodice?  I
was trying my darndest to figure out how it supported anything...
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov  4 23:42:49 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Corset from Chivalry Sports
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Ooh, the plot thickens...  My husband just took a look at this corset and
he
>thought it was a BR Creation.  BR is a company that markets to the "adult"
>crowd, with very nicely made corsets with little attention paid to
>historicality.
>
>Margo



You mean the kind that the gals bring to your home and try to sell you like
it was a Tupperwear party?  I think there is a local company called
"Undercover Wear."
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 02:06:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 01:21:25 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: waistcoat vs. weskit
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

What's the difference between a waistcoat and a weskit?  My impression is
that a waistcoat is long and 18th century, possibly as late as the Regency,
whereas a weskit is what I would call a vest - shorter and Victorian or
later.  Which name goes with what garments?

And when does one properly say 'weskit' when one sees 'waistcoat' written?
Is 'waistcoat' ever pronounced like the letters indicate it ought to be
pronounced?  I'd like a time-frame in centuries or decades, if possible.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
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     * )   (((((
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Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 07:32:23 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Capes for Men
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

 
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Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 07:52:28 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Capes for Men
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Patterns for capes, coats, redingotes for men from all periods up through 
Edwardian.
Amazon Drygoods Pattern Catalog
info@amazondrygoods.com
2218 East 11th Street
Davenport, Iowa 52803-3760
1-319-322-4138 Questions
1-319-322-6800 Business
1-800-798-7979 Orders
1-319-322-4003 Fax
http://www.amazondrygoods.com

For measuring, cutting, and tailoring instruction, see the reproductions of 
period tailors books for sale on line at http://www.rlshep.com.

Janet Arnold's *Patterns of Fashion 3, The Cut and Construction of Slothes 
for Men and Women c 1560-1620*, 1985 New York: Drama Book, ISBN 089676-027-8 
has patterns for one or two capes, photos of several historic ones, and 
patterns for other mens overgarments, robes, doublets etc.

Hope H. Dunlap
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 06:39:17 1999
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Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 07:56:22 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Good instructions for Organ pleats
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Drea Aleed's website has instructions.  Plug her name into 
www.metacrawler.com and the URL should pop up immediately.

Also, Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion 3, The Cut and Construction of 
Slothes for Men and Women c 1560-1620*, 1985 New York: Drama Book, ISBN 
089676-027-8 has instructions.  Same book published in London by Macmillan, 
differnent ISBN.

Hope H. Dunlap
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: waistcoat vs. weskit
Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 05:12:26 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Not being familiar with ANYTHING prior to 1690 regarding clothing, and if I 
am wrong, it's probably because of this, but I am inclined to believe that 
the term 'weskit' was invented by the fashion industry in this century.  I 
first started hearing it associated with 1970s crocheted vests, called 
'weskits' at the time.  You know, those short little things that tied in the 
front that we wore in grade school with mini skirts & knee boots if we grew 
up in that decade.  As far as the pronounciation of "weskit," vs. 
"waistcoat," it could be a bastardization of the British pronounciation of 
the word "waistcoat", which, like in the word "Greenwich", often drops 
certain sounds that we pronounce on this side of the Atlantic.

One of my MAIN barfs about the little old blue-haired ladies that volunteer 
at historic sites is their propensity to wear those laced, unboned "English 
bodices" that never existed and call them weskits.  I am positively CERTAIN 
that this is VERY incorrect.

This is just my 2c.  I have never seen the word 'weskit' in *any* period 
writing c. 1690 - 1860s, which is my period of study.  If anyone else has, 
please enlighten me.

Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
>What's the difference between a waistcoat and a weskit?  My impression is
>that a waistcoat is long and 18th century, possibly as late as the Regency,
>whereas a weskit is what I would call a vest - shorter and Victorian or
>later.  Which name goes with what garments?
>
>And when does one properly say 'weskit' when one sees 'waistcoat' written?
>Is 'waistcoat' ever pronounced like the letters indicate it ought to be
>pronounced?  I'd like a time-frame in centuries or decades, if possible.
>

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Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 08:43:41 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Capes for Men
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Sherlock Holmes actually wore an Inverness, which is a coat but with a cape 
instead of sleeves.  As for a basic long cape, there are should be at least 
one women's pattern among the "Big Three" pattern companies (McCall, 
Simplicity, Vogue/Butterick.)  A friend of mine made one for a tall man using 
one of these, and I made one for my husband.  A cape is not like a more 
fitted garment, so a women's pattern works fine.  You can always make it 
longer if need be.  (I have also in the past seen men's overcoat patterns.  I 
got one several years ago.  Burda, a German pattern company, often has a good 
assortment of men's patterns.)  I haven't looked through a pattern book in a 
while, so I don't know what is currently available, but this is coat pattern 
season.
Ann Wass
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Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 08:46:27 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Capes for Men
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Sorry, I just read the rest of your message.  There are special linings made 
for warmth.  Sunback (I think that is the spelling) is one.  It is satin 
surfaced, but with a pile on the other side.  You can also use an 
interlining, a separate layer between outer fabric and lining.  But a good 
heavy wool coating shouldn't need too much to be toasty warm.  A cape should 
not be too structured, either.  It should flow.  Also, be sure the 
seamstress/seamster you choose is up to the task.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 08:14:26 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Capes for Men
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I made my husband a cloak from polar fleece.  Not period, but it keeps him
warm & we through it over the bed at camping events.  I always think of a
cloak as a utilitarian garment, unless you are making to go with a specific
costume.  I have also known people to line with polar fleece and have
something more period on the outside.

Kathlene
----------


> -Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com
> 
> Sorry, I just read the rest of your message.  There are special linings
made 
> for warmth.  Sunback (I think that is the spelling) is one.  It is satin 
> surfaced, but with a pile on the other side.  You can also use an 
> interlining, a separate layer between outer fabric and lining.  But a
good 
> heavy wool coating shouldn't need too much to be toasty warm.  A cape
should 
> not be too structured, either.  It should flow.  Also, be sure the 
> seamstress/seamster you choose is up to the task.
> Ann Wass

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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: waistcoat vs. weskit
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 07:34:12 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>


> -Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
> but I am inclined to believe that 
> the term 'weskit' was invented by the fashion industry in this century. 
I 
> first started hearing it associated with 1970s crocheted vests, called 
> 'weskits' at the time.  

I was reading an article (alas my poor brain cannot remember where) that
talked about the split in the British/English and American/English after
the Revolutionary War.  It seems that the British were so upset that words,
for various items, changed so that they would not be mistaken for an
American.  Our accents were the same back then.  Anyway, one of the items
that was mentioned was a vest.  Apparently a vest was a vest in both
countries until after the War, when in England it became known as a
waistcoat.  There were several other items cited, but because this was
costume related, it stuck.

As far a 'weskit', could it be a slang term?  From Scottish, Irish, Welsh,
or one of the many British dialects?

Kathlene
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From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: waistcoat
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the word is WAISTCOAT, 
pronounced like it's written.

weskit is a vulgar pronunciation, and that spelling is not correct

BTW, vulgar simply means "of the people," not nasty

Kim
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I once made a cloak for a friend which had a shell of black cotton denim
and a lining of dark gray polar fleece.  In anything other than
brilliant sunlight it looked just like moleskin... lovely.

Kat
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Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 15:48:56 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Hello
I am preparing to make a mans suit 1770 for myself.
I have baught silk taffeta for the whole suit, trousers, waistcoat and
jacket. Waistcoat and jacket is having embroidery with fine silk floss.
Buttons is also going to be embroidered.
I have started to make som samplers for the embroidery. It is very
difficult to find patterns for embroidery, but i have found one that i
can use. I found it in a catalog i had from a museum in Lisboa. It was
embroidered on a small belt.
Now i am not sure if i want to use this pattern afterall. Many jackets
is embroidered with flowers. Does any of you have any sourses, books
where i can se some of those embroideryes?
I have made the jacket in muslin, after the book Evolution of Fashion,
pattern and cut of Margot Hammilton Hill. Here i have  a question about
the back vent (opening split)
On my jacket the vent is making an opening. Isnt this back split
supposed to be closed?
You can se the pattern of the embroidery at my homepage, the first below
and clicks on news.
Sorry about all those questions, but i would be glad if someone could
help me.
Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

I recently made a cloak for my husband. He can't stand the cold, either. We
used two wool Army blankets and lined it with a black satin-type fabric (I'm
just starting to sew clothing, and it was easy!). It's so heavy I can hardly
stand to wear it, but he loves it and has never complained of being cold.

Heather

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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1770 mans suit
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/05/1999 9:53:14 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

<< On my jacket the vent is making an opening. Isnt this back split
 supposed to be closed? >>

No, 

And the waistcoat is usually a different color/fabric even if the embroidery 
matched....usually in another color way. [IOW...if the coat is blue with 
white and yellow flowers, the waistcoat may be white, with the same 
embroidery in the blue of the coat and maybe pink instead of yellow]
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 09:53:34 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/05/1999 10:55:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< << On my jacket the vent is making an opening. Isnt this back split
  supposed to be closed? >>
 
 No, 
  >>

I'm rereading your question and.....

Do you mean sewn closed [No] or it hangs open. This is not an unusual 
problem. [Mine usually overlap at the bottom.] It's that CB seam that must be 
perfect! Also, the long full shirts were often pushed to the back of the 
breeches when tucked in. They want a big butt. This will effect the hang of 
the back vent.
But don't listen entirely to me...I'm a mediocre tailor.
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Portrait of a Lady
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 11:01:36 -0500 
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

I received a PAST TIMES gift catalog in the mail recently and on the cover
is a beautifully reproduced portrait which they describe as "Portrait of a
Lady in a richly embroidered dress attributed to Daniel Dumonstier (1565 -
1656).  Courtesy of Sotheby's, London."  This is not my period of most
interest (1830's - 1840's is), but thought some of you might be interested
in this portrait due to the very clear large image and detail shown, it is
from the mid-chest up.  The georgeous ruff (I think it's called) is
incredibly done, if I knew how to make lace, I think I could look at this to
make a pattern.  I don't know the descriptions of the parts of the apparel
to do it justice with a description, but the minute details are striking.

They describe their catalog as having gifts and home accents inspired by
Great Britain's past, it is a new one to me and have not seen this one
before.  However, I think I'll choose a couple of items just so I can get
another catalog to see what they have on the next cover!!  They have some
medieval-style Christmas cards which have caught my interest.

They have a web site www.past-times.com and on the catalog request page
although they don't have the present cover, they do show a different one
which was also a period portrait.

No affiliation, not even a customer, yet.   Connie Fairchild

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 10:21:55 1999
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Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 17:35:35 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Hello

Yes the back slit opends. I suppose i have to make the CB seam so that it will
meet.
Thanks for your reply. I had the feeling it was wrong.
Do you know of any good books that shows some of the embroideryes?

AlbertCat@aol.com skrev:

> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 11/05/1999 9:53:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> << On my jacket the vent is making an opening. Isnt this back split
>  supposed to be closed? >>
>
> No,
>
> And the waistcoat is usually a different color/fabric even if the embroidery
> matched....usually in another color way. [IOW...if the coat is blue with
> white and yellow flowers, the waistcoat may be white, with the same
> embroidery in the blue of the coat and maybe pink instead of yellow]
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 10:26:54 1999
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

I know that many have a different colour for waistcoat, but i have also
seen suits where all three parts is the same colour.
Besides i am planning to make an ivory waistcoat also.
Am i right that the back slit musnt open slightly, but should meet?
This is going to be a longtime job to make this, therefore i want it to
be as correctly as posible, and i am not sattisfyed with my embroidered
sampler i have to make a new one.
Bjarne in Copenhagen.

--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 10:31:44 1999
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Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 09:01:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Capes for Men
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-Poster: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>

To make a hooded cape for my husband, I adapted a
pattern for a woman's cape. I can't recall the number
right now, but it was a halloween costume pattern from
one of the big companies--Simplicity or McCall's. The
pattern was simple and easy to adjust. There were four
gore pieces for the cape and one piece for the hood. I
just made the gores wider and longer to accommodate my
husbands measurements. 

You can also check this site for instructions on
making your own cloak pattern. There are three
different styles described here.

http://www.mid-gard.demon.co.uk/midgard/resource/Cloak.html

--- Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com>
[snip]
>   I have always wanted a cape for my own use. Now
> that I tour with a theater
> company (One Way Productions - we do one-man
> biblical dramas) I will have
> opportunity to wear some cold-weather gear.  I went
> shopping for coats today
> (not alot of selection in So. Fla.) and was thinking
> about a trench coat and
> found nothing I liked, so... I am thinking about
> hireing a local lady to sew
> a cape for me.  I will need to provide her with a
> pattern, though.
>   I have spent several hours on the internet
> searching for a pattern for ANY
> man's coat, and come up empty handed. I even have



=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 12:52:36 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Good instructions for Organ pleats
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 13:05:19 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

I must admit that I am still confused over this subject. Now I have the
impression that organ pleats and cartridge pleats are the same thing....is
this an accurate assumption?
Carol Ross
-----Original Message-----
From: Hhdunlap@aol.com <Hhdunlap@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 6:57 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Good instructions for Organ pleats


>
>-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com
>
>Drea Aleed's website has instructions.  Plug her name into
>www.metacrawler.com and the URL should pop up immediately.
>
>Also, Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion 3, The Cut and Construction of
>Slothes for Men and Women c 1560-1620*, 1985 New York: Drama Book, ISBN
>089676-027-8 has instructions.  Same book published in London by Macmillan,
>differnent ISBN.
>
>Hope H. Dunlap
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: 1770 man's suit
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 11:28:57 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>



>Do you know of any good books that shows some of the embroideryes?

For real color photos of real stuff:

Catalog from the Musee de la Mode in Paris.
Set of 5+ Catalogs from the "Costumi Storici" at the Pitti Palace in
Florence
Catalog from the Kyoto Museum, 1989 French centennial exhibit
Catalog from the Musee de Tissus in Lyon
Catalog from the V&A - 400 Years of Fashion
Catalog from the Bath Museum of Costume
Modes et Revolutions
Revolution in Fashion

Both of these have the same name "Art of Fashion" ? "Art of Costume"??
Ashelford's book that covers about 1500 to WWI
Dr Eileen Riberia's 18thc book

Happy hunting, Bjarne,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 13:18:18 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0B3E3AA67456D311A9FC0000E889ED9847BF4C@na-dpw1.dpw.alcoa.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Portrait of a Lady PastTimes
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 19:34:46 -0000
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


----- Original Message -----
 > -Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
>
 > They describe their catalog as having gifts and home accents inspired by
> Great Britain's past, it is a new one to me and have not seen this one
> before.  However, I think I'll choose a couple of items just so I can get
> another catalog to see what they have on the next cover!!  They have some
> medieval-style Christmas cards which have caught my interest.
>
 Connie,
Past Times now have retail outlets in the important townes of the UK; I
regularly visit both Stratford and Birmingham Pavilions( a mall). Amongst many
of the joys is that they have a reduced area where you can get things for a
very large reduction on the original price. Wow;  a nightgown only has to have
a button missing and be an overlarge size and it seems to show up on the rail
with a third off. Also by till they often have a box of small things with bits
missing- last week there was a quizzing glass which had lost a stone and was
about half price.
They also have a club like arrangement and members get invited to special
presentations of new stock etc
There were planning to open a branch or two in the US but I dont know if they
did. It may be woth checking.
However if you ever get a chance to visit do; the Christmas stuff they have is
magic a lot is Dickensian.
I dont know if I would ever dare to turn up to a re-enactment in the crushed
velvet medieval tunic I bought  (garb snark heaven) but its great for parties.
The thing that I highly recommend - I use it for gifts every year - is the
Medieval Woman Calendar; Although as it is published by Workman of NY, maybe
its better to buy somewhere else than shipping them back across the Atlantic.
If there is ever anything you want me to go and check out before you send for
it let me know and I will have a look at the quality etc. No problem as I have
to go to Culpepers Herbal which is on the floor above at Pavilions to get my
organic apple juice, every week.
Dave



+++++++++
Heritage Matters

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 13:51:47 1999
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Good instructions for Organ pleats
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com
>
>Drea Aleed's website has instructions.  Plug her name into
>www.metacrawler.com and the URL should pop up immediately.
>
>Also, Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion 3, The Cut and Construction of
>Slothes for Men and Women c 1560-1620*, 1985 New York: Drama Book, ISBN
>089676-027-8 has instructions.  Same book published in London by Macmillan,
>differnent ISBN.

No. They both have instructions for cartridge pleats. Cartridge pleats are
different than Organ Pipe Pleats. As I wrote before, there are instructions
on the pattern draft in Blanche Payne's History of Costume First Edition.

Julie Adams



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 14:06:36 1999
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From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: waistcoat vs. weskit
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 07:34 AM 11/5/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>
>
>> -Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>> but I am inclined to believe that 
>> the term 'weskit' was invented by the fashion industry in this century. 
>I 
>> first started hearing it associated with 1970s crocheted vests, called 
>> 'weskits' at the time.  
>
>I was reading an article (alas my poor brain cannot remember where) that
>talked about the split in the British/English and American/English after
>the Revolutionary War.  It seems that the British were so upset that words,
>for various items, changed so that they would not be mistaken for an
>American.  Our accents were the same back then.  Anyway, one of the items
>that was mentioned was a vest.  Apparently a vest was a vest in both
>countries until after the War, when in England it became known as a
>waistcoat.  There were several other items cited, but because this was
>costume related, it stuck.
>
>As far a 'weskit', could it be a slang term?  From Scottish, Irish, Welsh,
>or one of the many British dialects?
>
>Kathlene

        The use of the word waistcoat far predates the seperation of these
colonies from Great Britain.  It was also in frequent use here in the US
before that time.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 15:28:04 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Man's Cape
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-Poster: Jessica Speer <speerj@up.lib.mi.us>

I'm new to the list, and uncertain That I belong.  I'm involved witth a
1900-1920 Mining location (miner's housing).

I just bought Simplicity 7438, a cape in 3 lengths, for myself, I've always
wanted one, who knows where I'll wear it.  I'm a weaver and I will make the
fabric, Many handdyed shades of blue, green and purple.

Anyway, I see no reason why it wouldn't make a man's cape, view A or B, with
B's collar, A has a hood.

Jess

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 15:40:53 1999
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Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 13:58:42 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: waistcoat vs. weskit
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I have never seen this spelling - not that it might not exist.  But the
English often pronounce words differently than we do.
Certainly people in much of London pronounce *waistcoat* *weskit*.
They also pronouce *Tottingham* *Tutnum* as in Tottingham Court Road.
I say this having gone to school and lived in London for some 3 years.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: waistcoat vs. weskit
>Date: Fri, Nov 5, 1999, 12:17 PM
>

>
>-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
>
>At 07:34 AM 11/5/99 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>>
>>
>>> -Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>>> but I am inclined to believe that 
>>> the term 'weskit' was invented by the fashion industry in this century. 
>>I 
>>> first started hearing it associated with 1970s crocheted vests, called 
>>> 'weskits' at the time.  
>>
>>I was reading an article (alas my poor brain cannot remember where) that
>>talked about the split in the British/English and American/English after
>>the Revolutionary War.  It seems that the British were so upset that
words,
>>for various items, changed so that they would not be mistaken for an
>>American.  Our accents were the same back then.  Anyway, one of the items
>>that was mentioned was a vest.  Apparently a vest was a vest in both
>>countries until after the War, when in England it became known as a
>>waistcoat.  There were several other items cited, but because this was
>>costume related, it stuck.
>>
>>As far a 'weskit', could it be a slang term?  From Scottish, Irish, Welsh,
>>or one of the many British dialects?
>>
>>Kathlene
>
>        The use of the word waistcoat far predates the seperation of these
>colonies from Great Britain.  It was also in frequent use here in the US
>before that time.
>
>Cheers,
>Ron Carnegie
>rcarnegie@widomaker.com
> *************************************************
> "The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
>  once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
>  other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
>  their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
>  all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
>  ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
>    G.M. Trevelyan
> *************************************************
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 17:02:11 1999
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Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 18:17:02 EST
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Remember men's coats were designed for horseback riding.  Even if they were 
not going to be worn for that, there was a vent or slit (still is, actually.)
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 17:36:45 1999
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-Poster: Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com>

  Thank you all for your great response to my inquiry.  I didn't expect it
to be so much and so fast.  You all are an enthuasistic bunch.

Joe Dunfee,  joe@dunfee.com
Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA

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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Capes for Men
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 16:01:37 -0800 
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

Joe

Not enthusiastic, just bored or obsessed.  GRIN :)

Stephen Bergdahl

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Dunfee [mailto:joe@dunfee.com]
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 4:01 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Capes for Men



-Poster: Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com>

  Thank you all for your great response to my inquiry.  I didn't expect it
to be so much and so fast.  You all are an enthuasistic bunch.

Joe Dunfee,  joe@dunfee.com
Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 17:54:47 1999
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Received: from Unknown/Local ([?.?.?.?]) by hotbot.com; Fri Nov  5 16:10:32 1999
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 16:10:32 -0800
From: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

Hi Leif,

I've missed you!  I'm glad you're back online again! 

I'm not much of an expert on 18th century clothes, but I do have a page posted to my website that includes pictures from an exhibit on this that I saw last winter.  Many of the pieces are closeups of embroidery to men's clothing, so it should be helpful.  To go directly to this page go to...

http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly/18thcent.html

Good luck!

Mary 
---
Visit my homepage:
http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly

On Fri, 05 Nov 1999 17:35:35   leif drews wrote:
>
>-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>
>Hello
>
>Yes the back slit opends. I suppose i have to make the CB seam so that it will
>meet.
>Thanks for your reply. I had the feeling it was wrong.
>Do you know of any good books that shows some of the embroideryes?
>
>AlbertCat@aol.com skrev:
>
>> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>>
>> In a message dated 11/05/1999 9:53:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>>
>> << On my jacket the vent is making an opening. Isnt this back split
>>  supposed to be closed? >>
>>
>> No,
>>
>> And the waistcoat is usually a different color/fabric even if the embroidery
>> matched....usually in another color way. [IOW...if the coat is blue with
>> white and yellow flowers, the waistcoat may be white, with the same
>> embroidery in the blue of the coat and maybe pink instead of yellow]
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>
>
>--
>
>
>Leif Drews
>Eboulevard 5, 3 th
>1635  Kxbenhavn V
>
>Bjarne Drews
>Eboulevard 5,3.th
>1635 Kxbenhavn V
>
>tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
>Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
>Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 18:10:36 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Advice Needed
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 19:28:53 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

This is a detailed description of a gown, but I need to provide the details,
to obtain your advice.  I have several questions after the description of
the dress and I would really apprieciate your advice.

Well, I am all excited... my daughter is making her first communion in May
and we are almost to the needlepoint stage of the dress.  We have been
planning on the making of this dress for two years.  We are going over board
on the dress because this is my only daughter and the last of my six kids.
Three of my best friends, one is her Godmother, and I will be making the
dress.  We plan on her having a late Victorian style little girl's dress but
floor length.

Since three of us do cross stitch, we will each be stitching a panel of her
dress.  The fourth person will be purchasing the fabric. I wanted to place
big cross stitched angels on the panels of the skirt.   For a year, I have
been searching for the patterns for the angels.  I wanted each angel to be
different to reflect the stitcher.  Today, I finally found the patterns for
the angels <ouch, $9.00 for each pattern>.  The company that made the cross
stitch design is Lavender and Lace Victorian Designs. The largest angel will
be on the front panel, she will be finished 10" by 17" tall.  She has a
white dress with a blue stole, gold ribbon, and a red flowered trim near the
bottom of her dress.  BTW, her hair is red.  The second and third angels for
the back panels mirror one another, but have different accent colors.  The
angels are floating sideways.  They each measure 14" by 16".  The right side
angel is carrying a garland of dark green and light pink.  Her accent colors
are rose and tans with a light pink polka dotted dress. She has blonde hair.
The left side angel is playing a mandolin, strawberry blonde hair, antique
blue over dress, lavender  stole and lavender polka dotted dress.  The
bottom of the dress has bouquets of pink roses.  All the angels dresses are
based white and have white wings.

Now for your advice or opinions....please...

We want to cross stitch the angels on linen.  Can linen be bought in another
color than white?  White is the tradition colors little girls wear for
communion dresses, but I can use pastels.  We want to use linen for the
dress <it is suggested for the cross stitch patterns>.  Would linen be a
good choice fabric for a first communion dress?  Does linen come in other
colors than white?  We want the angels to stay out on the dress.  Can you
suggest another color for the dress than white, knowing the colors of the
angels?  Can linen be dyed?  <Can you tell I am not a textile or dye person>
One of my friends suggested to tea dye the linen to give it an antique look.
Is this possible? And would it contrast the angels enough?  Has someone done
this and does the color turn out even?
What is the price range for good linen per yard?

Your thoughts and advice are very much appreciated.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 18:27:15 1999
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From: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@mediaone.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Capes for Men
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 19:41:10 -0500
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-Poster: "Andy Oppenheim" <Laguz@Mediaone.net>

Joe also try this url.
http://www.mid-gard.demon.co.uk/midgard/resource/Cloak.html
If you need help. E-mail me privately laguz@mediaone.net . I am in tamarac

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On Behalf
Of Joe Dunfee
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 7:01 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Capes for Men


-Poster: Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com>

  Thank you all for your great response to my inquiry.  I didn't expect it
to be so much and so fast.  You all are an enthuasistic bunch.

Joe Dunfee,  joe@dunfee.com
Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 19:18:39 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Capes for Men
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

Simplicity 7781 goes up to size 32, so the cape should fit a lot of men.

Darla
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 20:05:38 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991105215624.QUXC16527.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: waistcoat vs. weskit
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 02:21:46 -0000
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
> I have never seen this spelling - not that it might not exist.  But the
> English often pronounce words differently than we do.
> Certainly people in much of London pronounce *waistcoat* *weskit*.
> They also pronouce *Tottingham* *Tutnum* as in Tottingham Court Road.
> I say this having gone to school and lived in London for some 3 years.
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com
>
Sorry Robb,
I try to avoid correcting people but----
Its Tottenham as in Hotpurs;
However them southerners are a funny breed;
I once got some advice from a shop assistant  in Catford, and spent a whole
week trying to buy some "Batten" thread when she had meant " button thread"
The weskit in the the Northern areas  Lancs/Yorks pronunciation "Weztkot"
where it is a " kot" that only reaches down to the "Wezt" -the fat bit half
way up the body .
There is also a  "Noverkot" and a "renkot". its a halfway between a long and
short "o"
But then I am sure I will raise some disagreement
I have a very funny poem written by my late father-in-law ( a famous
Lancashire dialect poet) about a waistcoat; I shall try and dig it out.
Evidently southerners insist that their waistcoats have only a showy front
with two pockets or more with a satiny back complete with a strange adjustment
device;and it is used as an adjunct to a suit and used for storing things like
watches and thumbs.  Northerners have waistcoats that are the same material
back and front and were often used as warming garment when the arms were
required to be free ( to grab passing sheep) so the back part was important to
keep the back warm in those terrible northern winds. I was force to wear one
of these with a dozen buttons as a compulsory part of my school uniform;
Traditionally Londoners wore waistcoats with bowler hats;never with a flat
cap. The nort south divide also had different styles of these; Five panels in
the north, only four in the south until the advent of the single ; midlanders
would not wear a cap without a button;
BTB My friend got your most excellent books a week or so ago and is absolutely
over the moon; however it seems I may have to buy my own as any borrowing must
be several months down the line;
Dave


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Penny, are you familiar with the magazine Sew Beautiful?  It's about
heirloom sewing, and has many many ads for fabrics and notions, including
pastel linens.  Also lots of information and design ideas for communion dresses.

Margo
(who is jealous because she only has boys)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 20:37:17 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Good instructions for Organ pleats
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

I read your note too hastily.  The references I gave were good for cartridge 
pleats, not organ pleats.  Can anyone else help with a reference for organ 
pleats?

Hope H. Dunlap
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 21:35:27 1999
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Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 19:52:26 -0800
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Margo's advice to pick up a copy of Sew Beautiful is a good one. You
might also try talking to Joady at Hedgehog Handworks - I've bought some
lovely unbleached linen from her, and I know she'll provide any color
you like.

The Lavendar and Lace cross stich patterns are lovely, aren't they?  I'm
working on one (off and on) myself.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 21:46:08 1999
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

Is anybody on the list looking for a copy of this book? I saw one at an
antique store today for $30, in excellent condition.  It didn't even
look like the spine had hardly been creased.  If you're interested email
me privately.  First one in gets it.  I imagine shipping could be
handled priority mail ($3.20).

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov  5 22:38:59 1999
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Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 23:52:59 -0500
From: Hilary Doda <vaqqa@ibm.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Titanic outfits
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-Poster: Hilary Doda <vaqqa@ibm.net>

I'm trying to get a head start on next year's Hallowe'en (!)
costumes, 'cause I'm sick of grabbing an ID badge with a suit
and going as Scully yet again. My SO and I have decided to
go as Titanic Zombies, so I need to find a pattern for a
dress that I can make for myself. Now the minimal amount that
I know about the time period is that slender was in -- the
longline corsets, and empire waists. How far off am I?

I am very short-waisted and short-rised, with a large
waist-hip differential and a decent-sized bust. Which means
that almost nothing fits. :} What styles of the time would
be appropriate? What might fit? Empire waists are very out
of the question.

I know that I'm asking for a lot... I appreciate any
help that I can get!

Hilary Doda.



*****************************************

Please note that as of October 1st, my e-mail address will be
vaqqa@attglobal.net. The old address will continue to operate
simultaneously until October 1st 2000.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov  6 00:29:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 22:46:43 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Titanic outfits
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: Hilary Doda <vaqqa@ibm.net>
>
>and going as Scully yet again. My SO and I have decided to
>go as Titanic Zombies, so I need to find a pattern for a
>dress that I can make for myself. Now the minimal amount that
>I am very short-waisted and short-rised, with a large
>waist-hip differential and a decent-sized bust. Which means
>that almost nothing fits. :} What styles of the time would
>be appropriate? What might fit? Empire waists are very out
>of the question.


Oh! oh! what about the simplicity retro design I'm making! #8640..
http://simplicity.com/853/8640.htm
It fits generous hips & bust (I should know :] ) and you can shorten the
back-waist to make it fiit better, and it has a belt , so it won't bag out
too much at the waist. If you like it, it's really easy to put together...
And it's flattering for more.. curvy figures.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov  6 11:04:17 1999
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Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999 18:16:23 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1770 mans suit
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Dear Firefly
I just visited your exhibition pages and had a look on the embroidered mans suit.
Whow here really is something to look up to. If i practised from now and till about 10 years from now, i might do similar work. Very impressive i must say,
Thanks for the help.
Bjarne.

Firefly skrev:

> -Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
>
> Hi Leif,
>
> I've missed you!  I'm glad you're back online again!
>
> I'm not much of an expert on 18th century clothes, but I do have a page posted to my website that includes pictures from an exhibit on this that I saw last winter.  Many of the pieces are closeups of embroidery to men's clothing, so it should be helpful.  To go directly to this page go to...
>
> http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly/18thcent.html
>
> Good luck!
>
> Mary
> ---
> Visit my homepage:
> http://pages.hotbot.com/travel/fire.fly
>
> On Fri, 05 Nov 1999 17:35:35   leif drews wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> >
> >Hello
> >
> >Yes the back slit opends. I suppose i have to make the CB seam so that it will
> >meet.
> >Thanks for your reply. I had the feeling it was wrong.
> >Do you know of any good books that shows some of the embroideryes?
> >
> >AlbertCat@aol.com skrev:
> >
> >> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> >>
> >> In a message dated 11/05/1999 9:53:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> >> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
> >>
> >> << On my jacket the vent is making an opening. Isnt this back split
> >>  supposed to be closed? >>
> >>
> >> No,
> >>
> >> And the waistcoat is usually a different color/fabric even if the embroidery
> >> matched....usually in another color way. [IOW...if the coat is blue with
> >> white and yellow flowers, the waistcoat may be white, with the same
> >> embroidery in the blue of the coat and maybe pink instead of yellow]
> >>  _________________________________________________________________
> >>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >
> >
> >Leif Drews
> >Eboulevard 5, 3 th
> >1635  Kxbenhavn V
> >
> >Bjarne Drews
> >Eboulevard 5,3.th
> >1635 Kxbenhavn V
> >
> >tlf. 35 37 13 70
> >
> >Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> >
> >Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
> HotBot - Search smarter.
> http://www.hotbot.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov  6 11:49:07 1999
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 13:04:53 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1770 mans suit
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/06/1999 12:20:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:

<< Dear Firefly
 I just visited your exhibition pages and had a look on the embroidered mans 
suit.
 Whow here really is something to look up to. If i practised from now and 
till about 10 years from now, i might do similar work. Very impressive i must 
say,
 Thanks for the help.
 Bjarne. >>

You must trot down to the local library or book store and get "The Revolution 
In Fashion". There's a whole room full of these suits....with 
close-ups.....in it. Not to mention other waistcoats & women's embroidered 
things. 

Besides....this is a good book to own [out of print at the moment] even if 
one isn't interested in clothes. It's just one of the most fascinating & 
beautiful books there are.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov  6 11:59:18 1999
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Could you please inform me the name of the publisher and author?
I must save it til later, hopefully they will reprint it!!
Thankyou eaver so much for this lovely thing
Bjarne.

AlbertCat@aol.com skrev:

> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 11/06/1999 12:20:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
>
> << Dear Firefly
>  I just visited your exhibition pages and had a look on the embroidered mans
> suit.
>  Whow here really is something to look up to. If i practised from now and
> till about 10 years from now, i might do similar work. Very impressive i must
> say,
>  Thanks for the help.
>  Bjarne. >>
>
> You must trot down to the local library or book store and get "The Revolution
> In Fashion". There's a whole room full of these suits....with
> close-ups.....in it. Not to mention other waistcoats & women's embroidered
> things.
>
> Besides....this is a good book to own [out of print at the moment] even if
> one isn't interested in clothes. It's just one of the most fascinating &
> beautiful books there are.
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov  6 12:54:01 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Advice Needed
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>White is the tradition colors little girls wear for
> communion dresses, but I can use pastels.
> Does linen come in other colors than white  Can linen be dyed?
> One of my friends suggested to tea dye the linen to give it an antique
look.
> Is this possible? And would it contrast the angels enough?  Has someone
done
> this and does the color turn out even?
>
> Later... Penny
> http://www.costumegallery.com

  I know Margo covered most of your questions already but I am concerned
about one thing.  Linen doesn't hold its color. It fades fairly rapidly.  I
would hate to see you go through all the work of crossstiching those angels
and then the gown doesn't last.   Linen comes in 'natural' and if I were in
your place, I would buy that.  It would give you something similar to the
'tea dye' as your friend suggested, without the risk of color fade.
Michelle

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Advice Needed
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

 >Linen doesn't hold its color. It fades fairly rapidly.
 >Michelle


What? Explain please. Never heard of a problem before. What kind of dye 
fades on linen?

Kim

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Date: Sun, 07 Nov 1999 00:41:25 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 11/06/1999 12:20:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> drewscph@post12.tele.dk writes:
> 
> << Dear Firefly
>  I just visited your exhibition pages and had a look on the embroidered mans
> suit.
>  Whow here really is something to look up to. If i practised from now and
> till about 10 years from now, i might do similar work. Very impressive i must
> say,
>  Thanks for the help.
>  Bjarne. >>
> 
> You must trot down to the local library or book store and get "The Revolution
> In Fashion". There's a whole room full of these suits....with
> close-ups.....in it. Not to mention other waistcoats & women's embroidered
> things.
> 
> Besides....this is a good book to own [out of print at the moment] even if
> one isn't interested in clothes. It's just one of the most fascinating &
> beautiful books there are.
I couldn't agree mor. I got it when it first came out and it came with
me everywhere as well as essential bedtime reading. It's also my first
port of call for anything georgian particualrly the men's. The aim is to
make All the garments in it. Perhaps when I'm old and grey and I don't
have to sew for a living.

Dawn
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov  6 18:43:13 1999
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

>> Luckily for me there aren't many of these types where I live so we've
>> had a fun holliday and my high functioning autistic daughter finally
>> got it this year and had a great time screaming Trick or Treat. It's
>> taken her three years. She loves dressing up too so this holliday was
>> particularly exciting for her.
>
>That's wonderful!!!  What did she wear?

(Sorry been off line for a day or two)

She actually got interested in pumpkins and jackolanterns as people were
puting out their decorations. So I made her a jackolantern costume with a
hat (the hat being the most important part of course in her eyes). I used
the McCall's pattern as the base but put my own face on it since I didn't
like their faces. She still gets into it and plays in it even a week later.
She says that she is a prince pumpkin when she wears the hat.

For the party we took her to a week before I hadn't had time to finish her
costume so she went in an SCA dress with a crown and cape as a princess
which was fine with her since in a single day she will change persona and
accompanying costume up to five times.

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>
> -Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
>
>  >Linen doesn't hold its color. It fades fairly rapidly.
>  >Michelle
>
>
> What? Explain please. Never heard of a problem before. What kind of dye
> fades on linen?
>
> Kim

   Well, I don't know why...Two times I have had some colorful linen.
      The first was a warmly rich apricot color.  I prewashed it and it
faded, a lot. Then for some reason, I had to wash it a second time.  It is
now a peach color. It lost all its vibrance and it is pale.  Because of
that, I haven't bothered making anything with it. I am afraid that with a
few more washings, it might end up off white.
      The other piece was turquoise.  Again, this was fairly vibrant, until
I washed it.  I made a skirt for someone with the express order, hand wash
cold only if neccessary.
   Both pieces were remnants and it could have been a problem with the dye.
I have no idea. I just know how disappointed I was, especially with the
apricot.

Michelle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov  7 06:16:51 1999
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Date: Sun, 07 Nov 1999 13:29:10 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Hello
Was there anybody who could give me an adress where i could find
material to make flat buttons in fabric.
They must be flat and not curved, as they were in the 18th.century.
I would prefer an english supplier as i live in Denmak, but if possible
i could order them from USA.
I discovered that those i used are curved, and this is not period
correct.
I have embroidered a button with silkfloss and seaquins, i am using it
for my costume from 1770.
Thanks for the help!
Bjarne

--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Was there anybody who could give me an adress where i could find
> material to make flat buttons in fabric.
> They must be flat and not curved, as they were in the 18th.century.
> I would prefer an english supplier as i live in Denmak, but if possible
> i could order them from USA.

How about using a flat washer. It would be cheap and would be flat. 
Of course, it wouldn't be two piece, but it would look like some of 
the buttons I've seen (although they were not necessarily 18th 
Century.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


>    Well, I don't know why...Two times I have had some colorful linen.
>       The first was a warmly rich apricot color.  I prewashed it and it
> faded, a lot. Then for some reason, I had to wash it a second time.  It is
> now a peach color. It lost all its vibrance and it is pale.  Because of
> that, I haven't bothered making anything with it. I am afraid that with a
> few more washings, it might end up off white.
>       The other piece was turquoise.  Again, this was fairly vibrant, until
> I washed it.  I made a skirt for someone with the express order, hand wash
> cold only if neccessary.
>    Both pieces were remnants and it could have been a problem with the dye.
> I have no idea. I just know how disappointed I was, especially with the
> apricot.

How odd. I really like linen. I've got bright red, bright blue and 
bright purple dresses made of it. I wash them in the regular washing 
machine all the time and none have ever faded.

I suspect that you are right about why they faded. It could be that 
they were in the sale/remnant area because the dye was bad.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

What is a flat washer?

kat@grendal.rain.com skrev:

> -Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com
>
> > Was there anybody who could give me an adress where i could find
> > material to make flat buttons in fabric.
> > They must be flat and not curved, as they were in the 18th.century.
> > I would prefer an english supplier as i live in Denmak, but if possible
> > i could order them from USA.
>
> How about using a flat washer. It would be cheap and would be flat.
> Of course, it wouldn't be two piece, but it would look like some of
> the buttons I've seen (although they were not necessarily 18th
> Century.)
>
> Kat
>
> Kat(June Russell)
> kat@grendal.rain.com
> Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: Re: H-COST: buttons
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/07/1999 10:56:02 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kat@grendal.rain.com writes:

<< 
 > Was there anybody who could give me an adress where i could find
 > material to make flat buttons in fabric.
 > They must be flat and not curved, as they were in the 18th.century.
 > I would prefer an english supplier as i live in Denmak, but if possible
 > i could order them from USA.
 
 How about using a flat washer. It would be cheap and would be flat. 
  >>

Y'know, most buttons of the period have cardboard or wooden cores. Cardboard 
doesn't sound like it would stand up to dry cleaning. How does wood hold up? 
Anyone know? There is no doubt a plastic alternative that is drycleanable. 
Like maybe that thick plastic mesh for craft needlepoint projects. There's 
probably something already round....like in the plumbing dept. of the 
hardware store. A PVC washer of some kind.
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Advice Needed
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


> How odd. I really like linen. I've got bright red, bright blue and
> bright purple dresses made of it. I wash them in the regular washing
> machine all the time and none have ever faded.
>
> I suspect that you are right about why they faded. It could be that
> they were in the sale/remnant area because the dye was bad.
>
> Kat

  Yeah, I really like it too. It is one of my favorite fabrics. That is part
of the reason why it was so disappointing.
   Anyway, things like this happen (bad dye lots, etc) and I wanted to speak
up.
Michelle

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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> What is a flat washer?

It is a piece of metal, plastic or rubber with a hole in the middle 
of it. It is used in plumbing so that there are fewer leaks (plastic 
and rubber) or in building things where you need to have some 
movement left in a joint (like when joining pipes, putting together 
furniture or sometimes in cars.)

They are essentially flat metal rings. The ones I use are made by 
stamping out the circle of metal with a hole in the center of that. 
They are usually smoothed. I use small ones (which I embroider over) 
when doing eyelets. I've used larger ones for buttons (although they 
can be a bit heavy.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


> What is a flat washer?
> Bjarne Drews

It is a metal disk with a hole in the middle. You can find them at the
hardware store. They can be used for securing bolts, by putting them on the
side with the nut.  What are they called in Danish?

Michelle

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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I think it is the highly crystalline structure of linen that makes it 
difficult for it to be dyed, and then to hold it's color.  Chemically, it is 
cellulose, like cotton is, but the cellulose in cotton in more amorphous, 
giving more places for dye molecules to get into the fibers.
Ann Wass 
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Michelle wrote:
> 
 >
> > What? Explain please. Never heard of a problem before. What kind of dye
> > fades on linen?
> >
> > Kim
> 
>    Well, I don't know why...Two times I have had some colorful linen.
>       The first was a warmly rich apricot color.  I prewashed it and it

It's gotta be the dye, not the linen. I've dyed linen with procion
and it takes it wonderfully. A bit darker than the cotton in the
same batch, tho' that might have been my samples.

Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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Date: Sun, 07 Nov 1999 12:48:37 -0800
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: H-COST: vatican museums
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

This may be old news to some of you, but it's a
wonderful site with lots of pictures.

http://www.christusrex.org/www1/vaticano/0-Musei.html


Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov  7 15:12:50 1999
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Date: Sun, 07 Nov 1999 13:33:39 -0800
Subject: H-COST: website
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
CC: fred <fsbks@mcn.org>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

We have had some work done on our website.... it has been drastically
revised - for the better one hopes.
There is also a *links* page in it again.  This page is not quite finished -
but it is up and running.
If you are interested - go look:
www.rlshep.com
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov  7 16:13:34 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <011a01bf27ed$e975b100$013daccf@e4c2n6> <4.2.0.58.19991106132823.00abbcf0@rrnet.com> <000901bf28ef$0c67fea0$5cfafea9@gunsafes> <3825E42A.20CB@netwiz.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: linen
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 14:43:31 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


> It's gotta be the dye, not the linen. I've dyed linen with procion
> and it takes it wonderfully. A bit darker than the cotton in the
> same batch, tho' that might have been my samples.
>
> Susan F.

   Yet another good reason to prewash fabrics before cutting into them. In
the case of all that extensive cross-stiching, it might be a good idea to
wash a small piece several times and see what it does.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov  7 17:56:30 1999
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From: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>
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-Poster: " Firefly" <fire.fly@hotbot.com>

Today we went (in garb, no less) to the preview of the new movie Mansfield Park, which was playing at the Kennedy Center here. 

It is an odd adaptation of this novel.  If you love the book, you may hate this, because they have really changed it.  The heroine of the novel is probably one of Austen's more difficult characters.  The folks who produced this movie essentially transformed her from a rather spineless sorrowful creature into a spunky, 1990s sort of woman.  Entertaining, but considerably odd for the period.

As for the costumes--equally wierd.  Some characters had wonderful outfits in some scenes, then appear in other scenes in really odd outfits.  Notables included Fanny Price's many jumper style dresses (I swear she must have hit a sale at Laura Ashley) worn over blouses, a rather odd paisley-printed velvet spencer with a mandarin collar, and Mary Crawford's dark saphire gown with peek-a-boo lace sleeves.  But on the other hand, in another scene, the same characters will appear in absolutely fantastic outfits--and the men looked appropriate. So, go figure!

More odd elements included making Fanny a budding young writer, dropping her brother completely out of the plot and adding odd references to lesbianism (Mary had the hots for Fanny!!!), incest, and a very graphic sex scene.  So,figure it's a movie inspired by the book and that's about it.  Still, it's an entertaining flick, with lots of bits of humor and irony that make it a good way to spend an evening -- or a sunday afternoon!




HotBot - Search smarter.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov  7 21:10:09 1999
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Date: Sun, 07 Nov 1999 00:10:35 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: waistcoat vs. weskit
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>As far a 'weskit', could it be a slang term?  From Scottish, Irish, Welsh,
>or one of the many British dialects?

In my experience  a "weskit" is how I've sometimes heard the word
"waistcoat" pronounced.  Not a separate garment.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov  7 22:10:59 1999
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Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 23:26:47 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: old Vampire movie costume
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

FYI --

The 1922 Murnau version of Dracula, entitled "Nosferatu" was made without 
permission from Bram Stoker's estate. The German courts ordered all copies of 
the film to be destroyed, since it violated copyright.

Obviously, some one kept a copy....

The newer version, also entitled "Nosferatu," starred Klaus Kinski as the 
vampire. I believe it was directed by Fassbinder. It is worth renting on 
video.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 09:34:28 1999
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From: "Lady Unicorn" <ladyunicorn@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Business out of home
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-Poster: "Lady Unicorn" <ladyunicorn@aol.com>

Question to pose to those of you with a sewing business run from your home.
Have any of you had people just stop by, unnanounced, to pick up, drop off,
try on etc. and how did you handle it? Specifically during odd times like
8:30 pm on a week night or on a Sunday.

Carrie



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 09:47:35 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Business out of home
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:02:28 -0800 
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

Well when I ran my business out of my house.  I made appointments for my
costumers when they came over for a fitting.  You have to put your foot down
with some people.  They just don't seem to understand that you have a life
that has nothing to do with them.  If they turn up at odd hours just polity
and firmly tell them to call during business hour and make a appointment.
If you don't have set hours, make a set.  You have to draw a line and stick
to it.

Stephen Bergdahl - Out of the Business, because of Unreasonable customers.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lady Unicorn [mailto:ladyunicorn@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 7:48 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Business out of home



-Poster: "Lady Unicorn" <ladyunicorn@aol.com>

Question to pose to those of you with a sewing business run from your home.
Have any of you had people just stop by, unnanounced, to pick up, drop off,
try on etc. and how did you handle it? Specifically during odd times like
8:30 pm on a week night or on a Sunday.

Carrie



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 12:12:02 1999
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 13:26:33 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Business out of home
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 11/8/1999 7:57:50 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
ladyunicorn@aol.com writes:

<< Question to pose to those of you with a sewing business run from your home.
 Have any of you had people just stop by, unnanounced, to pick up, drop off,
 try on etc. and how did you handle it? Specifically during odd times like
 8:30 pm on a week night or on a Sunday.
 
 Carrie
  >>
No, but I'd immediately say that they needed an appointment, particularly 
because it is a business run from your home. Without appts, you would have 
absolutely NO privacy, since you can't even leave your place of business...

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both 
wind and tide."
King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 12:22:38 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199911081547.IAA26011@net.indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Business out of home
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 18:37:44 -0000
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>




 > Have any of you had people just stop by, unnanounced, to pick up, drop off,
> try on etc. and how did you handle it? Specifically during odd times like
> 8:30 pm on a week night or on a Sunday.
>
> Carrie
 Albeit a few years ago and for shoes and leather / metalwork /saddlery
equipment more than costumes---If they were picking up, dropping off or trying
on I would have already told them what times to call; Callers on spec at these
times would find me in the stables and most probably would be handed a fork to
help with the mucking out.- they only called once.
Mind you I was so far out in the  sticks that people would usually phone
first.
I  finally gave up because of people's picky picky attitude as much as their
opposition to realistic prices.
Its all a matter of making sure they know their place in the scheme of
things.; if they spot a weakness in this respect most punters will soon try to
look for other s and walk all over you. Where you can put it in writing- terms
and conditions and also an instruction to phone before calling. Mail or thrust
same into hot sticky hand at earliest oppurtunity.
Remember the customer is always right but they are not technically a customer
until they have parted with cash, which is their true role in the arrangement,
until they fulfill this  they are not only wrong but a timewaster and should
be treated with suitable disdain..
When I had taken on more work than I could cope with I used to go out of my
way tobe really really rude to customers ( a skill I still retain as so many
people refuse to accept that I have retired  and think I can just start up
again just for them)) unfortunately this resulted in my being seen as a bit of
an eccentric character and they seemed to gain some social credence from being
able to deal with me.- trade increased. So I stopped.
People who call at or near your mealtimes should be asked to join you, this
will make them think that you are a nice person ( not that I am suggesting
that you are not)-  you can then stick a bit extra on the final bill  for some
obscure " extras"
Even when actually working from your house, rather than a shed or extension.,
you should have your workroom set apart from all else and be welcoming for
clients, banish children and partners motor bike parts and have a chair.  But
it should not be too warm-- more painful customers can be left for quite a
while half dressed or worse while you pop into the house for " a moments "
have a fag and a brew and watch a soap and they will be much more amenable on
your return.
What is charmingly called a "shingle" in the US is always useful and should
boldy contain " visitors by appointment only" or " beware of the dog"
"electrified fence" or some other suitable epithet.
A friend in the business always insists on calling upon clients rather than
have them visit for "insurance purposes " but as she charges a "nominal " fee
for each  visit, finds that she doesnt get called out for extra tryons etc.
The ensuing remuneration is almost pure profit and allows her to keep her
published prices lower than any competition.
Above all be firm and clear in all matters.

Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 16:18:12 1999
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Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 23:29:56 +0100
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Surf the Musee de Tissus
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

My goodnes here are the most magnificent embroideries for my 1770 male
costume.
I really is inspired of those wonderfull flowers
Thankyou for joining this with mee
Bjarne.

Michelle skrev:

> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
>
> >-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
> >
> >
> >Fabric junkies can while away a few minutes here looking at the pics of
> >vintage fabrics.
> >http://www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus/
>
>   That was fun. Thanks Cynthia, for sharing your find.
> Michelle
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 16:22:02 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:38:49 -0800 
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

I must say that the eternal fashion/costume cycle has gone 360 degrees yet
again after looking at a site with fashion images from the haute couture
world.  
 
I often visit this site to get inspired (and when I want to compare my
elephantine thighs to those of the runway models...)
http://www.firstview.com/designerlist/index.html
<http://www.firstview.com/designerlist/index.html>   
If you look at the Fall 1999 images (i.e. Betsey Johnson and Andrew Groves),
you'll find (along with influences from the last few decades) corsets
galore, bustles, delicate white insertion lace dresses, leg o' mutton
sleeves, and laced up jackets that I swear look just like they'd go with an
1880's riding habit, and even a "weskit" or two...  (a caveat for sensitive
persons: stay away if you don't like seeing the occasional bare breast!)
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 16:24:19 1999
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

I would die to see it, but the url is wrong
Bjarne

Heidi Fox skrev:

> -Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> I must say that the eternal fashion/costume cycle has gone 360 degrees yet
> again after looking at a site with fashion images from the haute couture
> world.
>
> I often visit this site to get inspired (and when I want to compare my
> elephantine thighs to those of the runway models...)
> http://www.firstview.com/designerlist/index.html
> <http://www.firstview.com/designerlist/index.html>
> If you look at the Fall 1999 images (i.e. Betsey Johnson and Andrew Groves),
> you'll find (along with influences from the last few decades) corsets
> galore, bustles, delicate white insertion lace dresses, leg o' mutton
> sleeves, and laced up jackets that I swear look just like they'd go with an
> 1880's riding habit, and even a "weskit" or two...  (a caveat for sensitive
> persons: stay away if you don't like seeing the occasional bare breast!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 16:27:35 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:38:49 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Hmmm, sorry Lief, try just going to www.firstview.com and making your way to
their Woman's Collections...

-----Original Message-----
From: leif drews [mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 2:38 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:38:49 -0800



-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

I would die to see it, but the url is wrong
Bjarne

Heidi Fox skrev:

> -Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> I must say that the eternal fashion/costume cycle has gone 360 degrees yet
> again after looking at a site with fashion images from the haute couture
> world.
>
> I often visit this site to get inspired (and when I want to compare my
> elephantine thighs to those of the runway models...)
> http://www.firstview.com/designerlist/index.html
> <http://www.firstview.com/designerlist/index.html>
> If you look at the Fall 1999 images (i.e. Betsey Johnson and Andrew
Groves),
> you'll find (along with influences from the last few decades) corsets
> galore, bustles, delicate white insertion lace dresses, leg o' mutton
> sleeves, and laced up jackets that I swear look just like they'd go with
an
> 1880's riding habit, and even a "weskit" or two...  (a caveat for
sensitive
> persons: stay away if you don't like seeing the occasional bare breast!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 16:29:46 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:38:49 -0800
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:47:43 -0800 
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Ooops!  I meant Bjarne!  I'm just amazed at how fast these messages get
across the Atlantic and back!

-----Original Message-----
From: Heidi Fox [mailto:hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 2:44 PM
To: 'h-costume@indra.com'
Subject: RE: H-COST: Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:38:49 -0800



-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Hmmm, sorry Lief, try just going to www.firstview.com and making your way to
their Woman's Collections...

-----Original Message-----
From: leif drews [mailto:drewscph@post12.tele.dk]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 2:38 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:38:49 -0800



-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

I would die to see it, but the url is wrong
Bjarne

Heidi Fox skrev:

> -Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> I must say that the eternal fashion/costume cycle has gone 360 degrees yet
> again after looking at a site with fashion images from the haute couture
> world.
>
> I often visit this site to get inspired (and when I want to compare my
> elephantine thighs to those of the runway models...)
> http://www.firstview.com/designerlist/index.html
> <http://www.firstview.com/designerlist/index.html>
> If you look at the Fall 1999 images (i.e. Betsey Johnson and Andrew
Groves),
> you'll find (along with influences from the last few decades) corsets
> galore, bustles, delicate white insertion lace dresses, leg o' mutton
> sleeves, and laced up jackets that I swear look just like they'd go with
an
> 1880's riding habit, and even a "weskit" or two...  (a caveat for
sensitive
> persons: stay away if you don't like seeing the occasional bare breast!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 17:37:19 1999
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 18:50:29 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: first communion dress
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Penny: That sounds like quite a dress! When my daughter makes her first 
communion in 2 1/2 years I am going to make her something special -- but not 
that decorative!

I am not an expert on linen, but I want to caution you that not all linen has 
an even enough weave to cross stitch on; and I'm not sure that any of the 
lighter weights do. But you can certainly buy it in pastels, as well as 
whites and off-whites.

Gail Finke
Who just spent $50 on three yards of linen for a shift -- and that was on 
sale!!! Temporary insanity is my only excuse, I never spend that much on 
ANYTHING.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 18:06:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 00:37:09 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Lady Unicorn wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Lady Unicorn" <ladyunicorn@aol.com>
> 
> Question to pose to those of you with a sewing business run from your home.
> Have any of you had people just stop by, unnanounced, to pick up, drop off,
> try on etc. and how did you handle it? Specifically during odd times like
> 8:30 pm on a week night or on a Sunday.
> 
> Carrie
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
> Answerphones
Mine is on permanently and I use it like a switchboard. If I can I pick
up but if I'm busy doing something tricky then I don't. The message
gives my business hours 10-6 monday to friday and I don't answer during
lunch times of course I work ouside thes hours but that's my perogative
not theirs.
 If someone doesn't leave a message then that's their problem not mine.
They'll call back if they really want something from me if they don't
they were timewasters anyway. If advertisers jam up my machine  then I
don't advertise with their magazine, and I don't answer the door to
anyone unless they are expected. I do see clients out of hours but it's
on my terms and we have fittings at my convenience, if I have to go to a
fitting I charge both time and travel. Prospective and new clients are
told to speak to the machine if I don't answer first and if I can I will
pick up. they actually see the sense in it and are pleased that if I
won't leave a job I'm doing for this reason then I will devote the same
time to their work. Anyone who doesn't like it doesn't get taken onto my
books or keeps getting put to the back of the queue
When I had my shop I had a client who was always phoning and turning up
to check progres, witter etc. He then asked one day why it was taking so
long I added up all the minutes I'd spent with him and he realised that
he could have had his work a month earlier if he'd not hassled. He
behaved after that. When people realise that your time is also their
money and that part of the cost to them is wastage of hours spent with
them they soon stop.


dawn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 18:35:07 1999
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From: "m b" <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 16:50:40 PST
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-Poster: "m b" <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>

I have a new dress which laces up the front, and am having difficulty 
figuring out how to 'finish off' the lacing cords so that they will not 
ravel.

Some friends have metal tips that they have used, but which I have not yet 
found.  I have also seen this done with copper wire, but do not know how to 
do this technique.

Any advice, help would be appreciated.

Eileigh

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 19:33:11 1999
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 18:02:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Martha McCain <mmccain_2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
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-Poster: Martha McCain <mmccain_2000@yahoo.com>

The metal ends are called points or aglets. Some have
holes through which you can sew them to a cord -
others you need to glue with Magnatac or the like. I
see they are in the AlterYears catalogue.  Usually
they are available at a fabric/craft store.

If you're in a hurry, saturate the end of your cord
with Fraycheck or Magnatac and wrap a thread tightly
around it for 3/8-1/2". You can overpaint this with
acrylics.  You can also wrap with a metallic thread. 
Etc. Be as decorative as you like. You get the idea.

Martha McCain


=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 22:05:14 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 04:30:41 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>I have a new dress which laces up the front, and am having difficulty 
>figuring out how to 'finish off' the lacing cords so that they will not 
>ravel.
>
>Some friends have metal tips that they have used, but which I have not yet 
>found.  I have also seen this done with copper wire, but do not know how to 
>do this technique.

Here in the Silicon Valley, where we have access to electronics stuff, we
sometimes use heat-shrink insulation to finish off lacing-tie ends.  About
an inch of this insulation is fitted over the end of the cord, then heated
with a hair-dryer to cause it to shrink tightly onto the end.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov  8 22:05:17 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 04:23:28 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: waistcoat vs. weskit
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>>As far a 'weskit', could it be a slang term?  From Scottish, Irish, Welsh,
>>or one of the many British dialects?
>
>In my experience  a "weskit" is how I've sometimes heard the word
>"waistcoat" pronounced.  Not a separate garment.

I talked to three people from England, this weekend, and they all told me
that the only difference between 'weskit' and waistcoat' is reigonal
pronunciation.  None of them sew, and two of them were Morris dancers
(wearing what I would call vests).


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: buttons
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

leif drews writes, in a message sent 05:00 P 11/07/99 +0100:
>
>-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>
>What is a flat washer?

A washer is a flat metal disk with a little hole in the middle, usually
used for reinforcing a hole in something where a screw goes thru, or so the
nut on a bolt won't pull thru the hole it's in.  

You could use a small coin as a base for a flat button, or a little bone or
plastic ring.  Or you could cut a disk out of a disposable plastic bottle.
Test plastic first for dry-clean-ability before making buttons out of it,
of course.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 00:21:56 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991109005040.73079.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:50:47 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

 I'd wrap some thread around it, then knot it. (Depending on period, you
have the option of gluing the  ends to make them stiff.)
    If you want the metal points, aglets (spell?), I found some at Tandy
Leather.  They were marked 'bolo' tips but were those (somewhat) filagree
type.
    I attached some to some cord, wrapping the ends in thread first, then
sewed them in. I couldn't get them to fit through the eyelets in the front
of my bodice, so I ended up not using them.
    Then, I thought I would use them as pointing for my sleeves and while
holding the cord, the dangling end got snagged on the trim of my overskirt.
  I was so thrilled when I found them clearanced.   I bought all they had
left, after wanting some for a while. I think they look so pretty. Now, I am
ready to throw them all away! ;)

Michelle

>
> -Poster: "m b" <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>
>
> I have a new dress which laces up the front, and am having difficulty
> figuring out how to 'finish off' the lacing cords so that they will not
> ravel.
>
> Some friends have metal tips that they have used, but which I have not yet
> found.  I have also seen this done with copper wire, but do not know how
to
> do this technique.
>
> Any advice, help would be appreciated.
>
> Eileigh
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 02:40:17 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: White Jeans Machine
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Was this the list where someone wanted information about the White Jeans
Machine sewing machine?  I just got a flyer from Hancock Fabric Warehouse
(possibly called Minesota Fabrics or something else in another part of the
country) which had these for sale at $249, marked down from $349.  No
free-arm, no case (has handle on top for carying), 32 built-in stitches and
and built-in buttonholer.  (This is not a reccomendation, just info.)


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 07:58:48 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

For tips going through large holes I use bolo tips which can be found at
many craft stores... for smaller holes I use coiled spacer beads...
these come in silver & gold (and sometimes brass) and are in the bead
section of most craft stores.  I secure the later with superglue but
they also come with a ring on the end which can be used to sew them
down.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 08:29:59 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 09:45:27 EST
Subject: H-COST: San Diego costume talk
To: h-costume@indra.com, vintage@indra.com
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Dear San Diego list members,

I will be speaking to the students at Mesa College in San Diego, California 
on Monday, November 15th at 2:00pm. Topic is 18th century women's wear and 
period construction. Free and open to the public.

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries and the companion 
notecards will be available with profits going to the Mesa College Student 
Fashion Group. (Great time for holiday purchases without the mailing cost 
while benefitting our students!)   

Mesa College, 7250 Mesa College Drive, B-104.  
Monday, November 15 at 2:00 p.m.
Contact Person: Andrea Marx, 858-627-2930 

Andrea says: "Parking Lot 9 is the designated Special Event parking lot. If I 
know that a large group will be arriving I can notify security." Please call 
Andrea if you can join us.

I will have my 1770s reproduction outfit, complete from the skin out 
including a great pair of stays and from head to toe, including silk 
brocaded, straight-lasted shoes. 

For those bemoaning no costuming in San Diego, maybe this crowd can help! 
Please send this posting to others who might be interested.

Sally Queen

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http:// www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 08:45:22 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: waistcoat vs. weskit
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/08/1999 11:22:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<< (wearing what I would call vests).
  >>

Say....isn't a "vest" in Britain a sleeveless undershirt? What we would call 
a "tank".
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 08:50:35 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Depending on the size of the lace you can use "bolo points" (available
from Fire Mountain Gems (http://www.firemountaingems.com)
or, if the lace is skinny, thread a metal cylinder bead on the end and
hammer it flat.  If you really want to snazz up your aglets, Fire Mountain
Gems also sells enamelled, tubular beads--perfect for Elizabethan
decorative aglets.

Drea



On Mon, 8 Nov 1999, m b wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "m b" <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>
> 
> I have a new dress which laces up the front, and am having difficulty 
> figuring out how to 'finish off' the lacing cords so that they will not 
> ravel.
> 
> Some friends have metal tips that they have used, but which I have not yet 
> found.  I have also seen this done with copper wire, but do not know how to 
> do this technique.
> 
> Any advice, help would be appreciated.
> 
> Eileigh
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 09:16:05 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I've finished the ends by passing them through a flame (synthetic
laceing only) or using clear nail polish on the ends.  I suppose you
could use "fray-check" but I hate the formaldyhyde smell of it.  Would
love to have metal ends, also, but don't.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 09:42:55 1999
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From: "Johnna and David Goss" <djgoss@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
References: <199911091506.IAA12844@net.indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re:   h-costume:  Buttons
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 09:44:25 -0600
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-Poster: "Johnna and David Goss" <djgoss@bellsouth.net>

I am new to this list.  Could anyone direct me to a good source to purchase
historical buttons in bulk?   Thank you kindly in advance.

DJGoss

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 09:50:34 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re:   h-costume:  Buttons
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 08:05:28 -0800 
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

There are a number of places that sell buck buttons, what Period are you
looking for?

-----Original Message-----
From: Johnna and David Goss [mailto:djgoss@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 7:44 AM
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume: Buttons



-Poster: "Johnna and David Goss" <djgoss@bellsouth.net>

I am new to this list.  Could anyone direct me to a good source to purchase
historical buttons in bulk?   Thank you kindly in advance.

DJGoss

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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 10:21:15 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

I ordered cords with points on them from Swan and Lion. The 
points fit through smaller holes than the bolo points will.

http://www.historicenterprises.com/swanlion/

They're listed under Dress Accessories and called "points." 

http://www.historicenterprises.com/swanlion/dress_images.html

They usually sell them to tie men's hose to a doublet and come, I 
think, in lenghts of about 22 inches. When I ordered mine, they 
made them up in custom lenths for tying on sleeves. I got a 48 inch 
cord to lace the front of a dress and six 8-inch cords for around $20.

Usual disclaimer, just a satisfied cutomer.


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Waistcoat vs. weskit
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Albert Cat wrote
"Isn't a "vest" in Britain a sleeveless undershirt?

Yes, it is. I believe tailors use the term to mean 'waistcoat', but in everyday usage it refers to an undergarment.
BTW, I've never heard of 'weskit' as an independent word either, just a jokey mis-spelling or a rendering of colloquial speech.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 12:23:33 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Egyptians
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 17:48:22 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF2ADA.9DD3BE00
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tscapreelHi,

Some of you may have seen the movie The Hour of the Pig (with a.o. Ian =
Holm) in which a city lawyer defends a pig in a murder trial somewhere =
in the 15th c French countryside. In it Egyptians or gypsies play a =
crucial part. The thing is: I don't believe their costumes. Especially =
that of the girls. It's a lot like the ones you see on Esmeralda in The =
Hunchback etc.: loose blouse, seperate laced body and skirt(s). Somewhat =
wench-like, in other words. After looking intently through my library I =
can't find any reference on gypsy dress in the middle ages, at all! I =
know they entered nord-western Europe ca 1400, but I found no =
illlustrations mentioning them by name and showing them as dressed =
differently from the common populace.

Has anybody on this list any information on pre-1500 gypsy dress?

Thanks,

Henk

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF2ADA.9DD3BE00
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>tscapreel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Briefpapier\">
<META content=3D"Microsoft Word 97" name=3DGenerator>
<META content=3D"C:\PROGRAM FILES\MICROSOFT OFFICE\OFFICE\html.dot" =
name=3DTemplate>
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff link=3D#0000ff vLink=3D#800080>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Some of you may have seen the movie The =
Hour of the=20
Pig (with a.o. Ian Holm) in which a city lawyer defends a pig in a =
murder trial=20
somewhere in the 15th c French countryside. In it Egyptians or gypsies =
play a=20
crucial part. The thing is: I don't believe their costumes. Especially =
that of=20
the girls. It's a lot like the ones you see on Esmeralda in The =
Hunchback etc.:=20
loose blouse, seperate laced body and skirt(s). Somewhat wench-like, in =
other=20
words. After looking intently through my library I can't find any =
reference on=20
gypsy dress in the middle ages, at all! I know they entered nord-western =
Europe=20
ca 1400, but I found no illlustrations mentioning them by name and =
showing them=20
as dressed differently from the common populace.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Has anybody on this list any =
information on=20
pre-1500 gypsy dress?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Henk</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF2ADA.9DD3BE00--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 12:40:42 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Waistcoat vs. weskit
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 10:47:42 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

The only place I've seen the word written out as "weskit" is in clothing
catalogs, presumably so folks will say the word the way the manufacturers
want us to.

Cheers!

MaggiRos


A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	KATE M BUNTING [SMTP:K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 09, 1999 5:32 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	H-COST: Re: Waistcoat vs. weskit
> 
> 
> -Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> 
> Albert Cat wrote
> "Isn't a "vest" in Britain a sleeveless undershirt?
> 
> Yes, it is. I believe tailors use the term to mean 'waistcoat', but in
> everyday usage it refers to an undergarment.
> BTW, I've never heard of 'weskit' as an independent word either, just a
> jokey mis-spelling or a rendering of colloquial speech.
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 13:07:06 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:11:31 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

For clarity and accuracy, I must point out that "points" are the laces or
cords themselves.  The decorative/ protective ends are aglets. I know people
often say points for the ends, but that doesn't make it correct.  

Your hose may be pointed or trussed to your doublet, that is tied with
points, even if the ends of the cords are nothing but knots.

Cheers!

MaggiRos




A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net



> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Linda Yordy [SMTP:abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 09, 1999 5:21 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	Re: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
> 
> I ordered cords with points on them from Swan and Lion. The 
> points fit through smaller holes than the bolo points will.
> 
> http://www.historicenterprises.com/swanlion/
> 
> They're listed under Dress Accessories and called "points." 
> 
> http://www.historicenterprises.com/swanlion/dress_images.html
> 
> They usually sell them to tie men's hose to a doublet and come, I 
> think, in lenghts of about 22 inches. When I ordered mine, they 
> made them up in custom lenths for tying on sleeves. I got a 48 inch 
> cord to lace the front of a dress and six 8-inch cords for around $20.
> 
> Usual disclaimer, just a satisfied cutomer.
> 
> 
> Linda Yordy
> Phone: 208/426-4034
> Boise State University
> Center for Management Development
> 1910 University Drive
> Boise, ID  83725-1660
> ********************************************************
> Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
> directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 14:43:11 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 15:56:56 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: San Diego costume talk
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-Poster: MLaventure@aol.com

Hi Sally,

I've been meaning to e-mail you to tell you how much I enjoyed your symposium 
and how delightful it was to meet you and come over to your house for dinner.

I just got back in town from teaching hat-making in the San Francisco Bay 
area  last week and San Luis Obispo the week before.  

Will you be here in California for more than one day?  I'm about one hour 
from San Diego.  It would be nice to see you again.    

My home number is 949 716-0643, although e-mail is always the best way to 
leave a message...my husband doesn't accidentally delete that...

Thanks,

Mary LaVenture

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 14:57:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 16:12:05 -0500
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Deely-boppers in catalog
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

For those who were interested in them, I just found some deely-boppers
in the Oriental Trading Co. Christmas catalog.  Looks like its a red
headband with 3" fuzzy santa head boppers on springs.  A dozen is
US$6.50.  I imagine one could substitute any other ball on them and
wouldn't be surprised if Oriental has them in other forms.  #CF-4/543
for those who are interested.  800-228-2269
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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Subject: Re: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 11/9/99 8:34:24 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
janicedals@mediaone.net writes:

<< Would
 love to have metal ends, also, but don't.
 --  >>
Richard the Thread, in Los Angeles, carries a corset lacing crimper tool and 
the metal crimps that go with it.  It is a bit pricey.  I think the tool 
costs about $75.00.    The tips are cheap.   However, it is the best way to 
deal with lacing tips I have found, having tried nearly all of the 
suggestions so far offerred on this list.  They also carry lacing cord which 
comes on a cone or can be purchased by the yard.  That way you can have any 
length you wish.  Very strong, and dyeable.  It's the only thing I use 
anymore.  Cheryl Odom
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Subject: H-COST: Obituary-Richard Martin, Curator of the Costume Institute
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 99 18:32:26 -0500
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>

>> From the New York Times on the web.
>>>
>>>November 9, 1999
>>>
>>>
>>>        Richard Martin, 52, Curator of the
>>>        Costume Institute 
>>>
>>>        By ANNE-MARIE SCHIRO
>>>
>>>        Richard Martin, who infused the Costume Institute of
>>>        the Metropolitan Museum of Art with his deep
>>>        knowledge of popular culture and art history, died
>>>        yesterday at his apartment in New York. He was 52. 


     I didn't include the whole article, but people can find it at 
http://search.nytimes.com/search/daily/bin/fastweb?getdoc+site+iib-site+135
+0+wAAA+Richard%7EMartin

     Richard Martin's name came up on the list about a year ago when he 
used the term "roadkill" to describe the flattened 18th century look of 
stays and panniers.

     The exhibits at the Met have been lots of fun to visit with the 
themes that Mr. Martin used in presenting costume. It was more than 
simply costume arranged along a timeline.

     -Carol Kocian
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 20:43:48 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:00:47 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>


I got my Dover Book Catalog the other day.  I was glancing through it and a
couple books caught my eye.  Does anyone have an opinion, good or bad, on
any of the following, before I possibly waste some money? From reading this
list, I have learned to take Norris with a grain of salt, but how about
these?

Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns: A Complete Lady's Wardrobe ed. by
Kristina Harris.

Everday Dress of Rural America, 1783-1800: With Illustrations and Patterns,
byt Merideth Wright.

Racinet's Full-Color Pictorial History of Western Costume:.......August
Racinet  (92 pages)



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 21:31:58 1999
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I don't have the Victorian book so I can't comment on that one, but I do
have the Rural American book and I think that it is very well done. It's
a good examination of a period of time which I think is a bit under
studied, i.e. post-Rev War America. Although it is focused on New England
(it was originally written based on sources from Vermont IIRC) it seems
to be applicable to most of Post-Colonial America. Racinet is a 19th
century reprint and as such I find that it has all the flaws inherent in
any Victorian source. It's a nice picture book, but I wouldn't use it for
any kind of research. 

Karen 

On Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:00:47 -0500 "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
writes:
> 
> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> 
> 
> I got my Dover Book Catalog the other day.  I was glancing through 
> it and a
> couple books caught my eye.  Does anyone have an opinion, good or 
> bad, on
> any of the following, before I possibly waste some money? From 
> reading this
> list, I have learned to take Norris with a grain of salt, but how 
> about
> these?
> 
> Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns: A Complete Lady's Wardrobe ed. 
> by
> Kristina Harris.
> 
> Everday Dress of Rural America, 1783-1800: With Illustrations and 
> Patterns,
> byt Merideth Wright.
> 
> Racinet's Full-Color Pictorial History of Western 
> Costume:.......August
> Racinet  (92 pages)
> 
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 21:33:58 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199911092330.SAA25937@jefferson.patriot.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Obituary-Richard Martin, Curator of the Costume Institute
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:53:53 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Thank you Carol for sharing this information.  Mr. Martin had written
several scholarly articles for the Costume Society of America's journal
"Dress" and sat on the board for many years.  He will be greatly missed.

Later...Penny


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 21:43:25 1999
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Egyptians
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 19:52:41 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0002_01BF2AEB.FB8769A0
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tscapreelJust a side note.  I've rented this movie in the states with the
Title: The Advocate, fairly recently.

Regina Romsey
  -----Original Message-----
  From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Henk 't Jong - tScapreel
  Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 8:48 AM
  To: H-Costume
  Subject: H-COST: Egyptians


  Hi,

  Some of you may have seen the movie The Hour of the Pig (with a.o. Ian
Holm) in which a city lawyer defends a pig in a murder trial somewhere in
the 15th c French countryside. In it Egyptians or gypsies play a crucial
part. The thing is: I don't believe their costumes. Especially that of the
girls. It's a lot like the ones you see on Esmeralda in The Hunchback etc.:
loose blouse, seperate laced body and skirt(s). Somewhat wench-like, in
other words. After looking intently through my library I can't find any
reference on gypsy dress in the middle ages, at all! I know they entered
nord-western Europe ca 1400, but I found no illlustrations mentioning them
by name and showing them as dressed differently from the common populace.

  Has anybody on this list any information on pre-1500 gypsy dress?

  Thanks,

  Henk

------=_NextPart_000_0002_01BF2AEB.FB8769A0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>tscapreel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Briefpapier\">
<META content=3D"Microsoft Word 97" name=3DGenerator>
<META content=3D"C:\PROGRAM FILES\MICROSOFT OFFICE\OFFICE\html.dot" =
name=3DTemplate>
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff link=3D#0000ff vLink=3D#800080>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D347051901-10111999><STRONG>Just a side note.&nbsp; I've rented =
this movie=20
in the states with the Title: The Advocate, fairly=20
recently.&nbsp;</STRONG></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D347051901-10111999></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D347051901-10111999><STRONG>Regina =
Romsey</STRONG></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
  <DIV align=3Dleft class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
owner-h-costume@indra.com=20
  [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Henk 't Jong -=20
  tScapreel<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 09, 1999 8:48 =
AM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
  H-Costume<BR><B>Subject:</B> H-COST: Egyptians<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Some of you may have seen the movie =
The Hour of=20
  the Pig (with a.o. Ian Holm) in which a city lawyer defends a pig in a =
murder=20
  trial somewhere in the 15th c French countryside. In it Egyptians or =
gypsies=20
  play a crucial part. The thing is: I don't believe their costumes. =
Especially=20
  that of the girls. It's a lot like the ones you see on Esmeralda in =
The=20
  Hunchback etc.: loose blouse, seperate laced body and skirt(s). =
Somewhat=20
  wench-like, in other words. After looking intently through my library =
I can't=20
  find any reference on gypsy dress in the middle ages, at all! I know =
they=20
  entered nord-western Europe ca 1400, but I found no illlustrations =
mentioning=20
  them by name and showing them as dressed differently from the common=20
  populace.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Has anybody on this list any =
information on=20
  pre-1500 gypsy dress?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Henk</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 21:45:36 1999
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>



> >> From the New York Times on the web.
> >>>
> >>>November 9, 1999
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>        Richard Martin, 52, Curator of the
> >>>        Costume Institute
> >>>
> >>>        By ANNE-MARIE SCHIRO
> >>>
> >>>        Richard Martin, who infused the Costume Institute of
> >>>        the Metropolitan Museum of Art with his deep
> >>>        knowledge of popular culture and art history, died
> >>>        yesterday at his apartment in New York. He was 52.

What a surprise. First Betty Williams, then Otto Thieme and now
Richard Martin. I wonder who the next costume historian will be
to go. Such a loss to the community.
Lois

--
Lois Mueller
Wooden Porch Books
books@woodenporch.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 22:25:17 1999
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From: "Johnna and David Goss" <djgoss@bellsouth.net>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
References: <199911100347.UAA17344@net.indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re:   h-costume-Buttons
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:26:25 -0600
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-Poster: "Johnna and David Goss" <djgoss@bellsouth.net>



I am looking for mainly ca.1750-1800's.  Any information would be most
helpful.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~
From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 08:05:28 -0800
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re:   h-costume:  Buttons

- -Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

There are a number of places that sell buck buttons, what Period are you
looking for?



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 22:51:21 1999
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I use Everyday Dress of Rural America to make men's shirts.  With some 
modifications, it works for early 19th century, too.  The reprint of 
Cunnington's English Women's Fashion of the 19th Century is good, too.  I 
can't comment of the other titles you suggest.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 23:32:56 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Have to Share (long)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:58:02 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I posted this to the h-needlework list and I thought the costume list might
be interested too.

I just have to share my great good fortune with someone.

My mom conducts Personal Property and Estate sales, and last week she had a
doosy.  For 3 weeks we worked on organizing and pricing, and my job was the
sewing room.  There were at least 300 patterns from the 1940's to the
1980's.  This woman did textile painting, knitting, tole painting and made
her own hats.  Oh yes, there were 50 or so fabulous hats.

But the most amazing and wonderful things were the handmade laces.  My mom
said, "You know more about this stuff, go through and put a price on them".
 Well, I thought, "Sure, no problem, put three or four pieces in a bag and
put $1.00 on it".  It wasn't until I got a good look at them, that I
realized that there something much more special than just some bits of
lace.

As I looked at these treasures, I knew in my heart that they were handmade,
but I had no idea what technique was used to make them.

The pieces belonged to the woman's, first husband's, mother.  Her first
husband was born in 1893 in New York.  His mother was from Scotland.  There
was a note attached to a baby bonnet that explained that it was his baby
bonnet, made by his grandmother.  I found out later that it is Battenberg
Lace.  Most of the pieces are Appliqués, but they don't appear to have ever
been used on a garment.  There were also cuffs and collars.  

So, I was pretty sure that none of the pieces were crafted after 1920.  But
the intricacy of the work is mind boggling and I still could not bring
myself to declare them handmade.  I brought them home to show my DH and he
was so excited that he got out the magnifying glass to study them more
closely.  That was when I started to find the little imperfections, 5
picots on one side, 6 on the exact opposite, tighter needlelace here,
looser over there.  I could see needleweaving, needlelace, twisted threads
and thought... Bobbin Lace?

So I took my treasures to an acquaintance who does Bobbin Lace to see if
she could shed some light on what I had.  All she could tell me is that all
the stitches she saw were in the Bobbin Lace repertoire, but that she
couldn't say if these were Bobbin Lace for sure.

My next stop was with a very knowledge woman in my local chapter of the
EGA.  We spent 2 hours pouring over her lace books trying to figure out
what was what.  An we were more successful than I ever thought we would be.
 She had Elizabeth Kurella's books 'The Pocket Guide to Valuable Old Lace
and Linens' and 'The Guide to Lace and Linens'.  I highly recommend these
books.

We were able to identify the Irish Crochet collar, the 2 yards of
Coronation Cord/Crochet trim, and the Battenberg Lace.  We made the
distinction between the handmade and machine made laces.  Let me tell you,
the machine laces are very fine too.  We made conclusive identification of
three pieces of Bobbin Lace and suspect that the others are as well, but
there are so many different styles of Bobbin Lace!!!!  We also found a
piece of Drawnwork and two Tenerife doilies.  It was fun!

But now I had to fix a price on these beauties.  I had already determined
that I would purchase three items for myself, but how to price the others? 
Lace, no matter how beautiful, is not a hot item in the world of collectors
at the moment.  So, I did not price too cheap or too high, more along the
lines of how much I would spend, if it was me making the purchase.

The end result,  the Drawnwork and the two Tenerife pieces sold, as well as
some beautiful Fillet Crochet pieces.  The rest now resides in my house
with me.  I waited until the end of the sale, half price Sunday, no less,
and they were still there.  If I had not purchased them, they would have
gone to the Thrift Store.

So now I have just over 20 pieces of incredible handmade lace, 15 of which
I know to be Victorian.  My intent is to display them in some fashion.  But
I would like to learn more about them.  It has been suggested that I can
send off several pieces to Lacis, in Berkley, and that they have someone
that could appraise them.  Has anyone out there ever done this?  Is there
anywhere else that might offer the same service?

I am off tomorrow to buy some acid free tissue to store them in, until I
can get them mounted and framed.

Kathlene

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov  9 23:43:41 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.1.19991104043305.00b25440@pop.slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: White Jeans Machine
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 17:45:23 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

It is also available in the Clotilde's catalog.  I have a catalog here if
anyone needs the info on it.

Michelle

>
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
> Was this the list where someone wanted information about the White Jeans
> Machine sewing machine?  I just got a flyer from Hancock Fabric Warehouse
> (possibly called Minesota Fabrics or something else in another part of the
> country) which had these for sale at $249, marked down from $349.  No
> free-arm, no case (has handle on top for carying), 32 built-in stitches
and
> and built-in buttonholer.  (This is not a reccomendation, just info.)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 02:41:10 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Richard the Thread, in Los Angeles, carries a corset lacing crimper tool and 
>the metal crimps that go with it.  

I looked in the Dover reprint of Jost Amman's Book of Trades, and studied
the picture of the lacing maker (thong maker?).  Then I looked at the
surviving real ones in Janet Arnold's book.  I made mine with .006inch
thick brass shim stock I bought at a hardware store, a hammer, and a little
tiny anvil a roommate had.  It took one 1"x3/4" piece for each tip.  Since
then I have done the same with pliers and the same shim stock.  I cut the
brass with my cut-thru-anything scissors.  Richard the Thread's probably
look like mine, minus the hammer/plier marks.


Kayta
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 07:26:52 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Waistcoat vs. weskit
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>BTW, I've never heard of 'weskit' as an independent word either, just a 
>jokey mis-spelling or a rendering of colloquial speech.

Jokey rendering it may be, but somehow my spell checker had heard of it.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 04:10:47 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 05:25:14 -0500
From: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: 18thC Waistcoats
To: all <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: all <h-needlework@Ansteorra.org>
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-Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>

You may already be aware of this, but just in case......

The Bath Museum of Costume's web site currently have a whole load of 18thC
men's waistcoats on display on the site :-

http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk

Click on "Museum Collection", then follow the link "Details of objects" -
this gives you a list of items.  Click on one and you get quite a detailed
description - images can be viewed by clicking on the grren bar above the
list.

Hope this is of some interest!

Margaret
antique costume & textiles
http://www.artizania.co.uk
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:32:41 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Colourfastness in linen
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Michelle

>   Well, I don't know why...Two times I have had some colorful
> linen. The first was a warmly rich apricot color.  I prewashed it
> and it faded, a lot. Then for some reason, I had to wash it a second
> time. It is now a peach color. It lost all its vibrance and it is
> pale. Because of that, I haven't bothered making anything with it.
> I am afraid that with a few more washings, it might end up off
> white. The other piece was turquoise.  Again, this was fairly
> vibrant, until I washed it.  I made a skirt for someone with the
> express order, hand wash cold only if neccessary. Both pieces were
> remnants and it could have been a problem with the dye. I have no
> idea. I just know how disappointed I was, especially with the
> apricot. 

Seems like you had bad luck with that linen.  I haven't done much 
in coloured linen (the price can be prohibitive for linen cloth) but last 
year I saw some cheap linen fabric in awful colours (dusky sky 
blue and pale salmony pink).  It was ends of rolls so I bought what 
there was of each, zig-zagged the raw edges and shoved the lot 
through the washing-machine a *bright* yellow Dylon dye.

The pink came out a lovely golden-yellow, the blue a bluey-sage 
green and I used them to make a parti-coloured cotehardie with 
matching hose and "paltock".  The cotehardie is the only part 
finished so far (lots of handsewn eyelets to do on the hose and 
paltock) so has been worn (and washed) several times with 
different hose and still matches the pieces that haven't been 
washed yet.

Perhaps overdying fixed the exisiting dye in the fabric, or perhaps 
the dye in the fabric you had wasn't very colourfast?


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 11:54:01 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Organ-pipe pleats in Payne
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi

> >http://tudor.simplenet.com/henry8/henryred2.jpg
> >
> Organ pipe pleats as shown in the existing bases in Blanche Payne and
> Kohler, with a diagram in Blanche Payne's History of Costume FIRST
> edition.

I got hold of a copy of the first edition of the Payne book.  It has 
neat patterns in the back and a photo of the bases, but I can't see 
a diagram.  Please can someone tell me the page number in case 
I'm missing it?

Thanks


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:05:30 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  H-COST: waistcoat vs. weskit
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

 
> What's the difference between a waistcoat and a weskit?  My impression
> is that a waistcoat is long and 18th century, possibly as late as the
> Regency, whereas a weskit is what I would call a vest - shorter and
> Victorian or later.  Which name goes with what garments?

Here (in the Uk and among the people I have reason to talk to 
about such things) what Americans call a "vest" is called a 
"waistcoat," and the long ones are referred to as "long waistcoats"

What we call a vest is a sleeveless garment worn next the skin 
under all the otherclothes. Similarly, "pants" are a lower body 
garment worn under everything else.

It's often a source of amusement, to me at least, when Americans 
refer to "vest and pants" because it conjures up a picture of 
someone in his underwear

> Is 'waistcoat' ever pronounced like the letters indicate it ought
> to be pronounced? 

Yes.  Waist-coat, like the two words run together.  "weskit" 
looks/sounds, to me, like a regional variation on the pronunciation, 
or slang.



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:53:08 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Vests and Tanks
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi

> Say....isn't a "vest" in Britain a sleeveless undershirt? What we
> would call a "tank".

I have a couple of "Takn-tops".  Knitted sleeveless sweaters for 
wearing over shirts.  They're pretty old-fashioned but were popular 
in the town I grew up in in the '70s.  Colleagues laugh at them 
when I wear them these days

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:31:36 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 11/10/99 1:57:44 AM Mountain Standard Time, kayta@slip.net 
writes:

<<  I made mine with .006inch
 thick brass shim stock I bought at a hardware store, a hammer, and a little
 tiny anvil a roommate had.  It took one 1"x3/4" piece for each tip.  Since
 then I have done the same with pliers and the same shim stock.  I cut the
 brass with my cut-thru-anything scissors.  Richard the Thread's probably
 look like mine, minus the hammer/plier marks.
  >>
What a wonderful and creative solution and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg.  
This little bit of information is being taken to the costume shop when I go 
to work today!  Thanks, Cheryl
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-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

K & J Hopkins wrote:
> 


> 
> So now I have just over 20 pieces of incredible handmade lace, 15 of which
> I know to be Victorian.  My intent is to display them in some fashion.  But
> I would like to learn more about them.  It has been suggested that I can
> send off several pieces to Lacis, in Berkley, and that they have someone
> that could appraise them.  Has anyone out there ever done this?  Is there
> anywhere else that might offer the same service?
> 
> I am off tomorrow to buy some acid free tissue to store them in, until I
> can get them mounted and framed.
> 
> Kathlene
> 


Kathlene,

Just the other day Lynnette Jenning did a spot on Lacis and showed the
owner's collection.  The owner apparently collects laces and she might
not only be able to give you information about the pieces, but also some
tips on display, as that was part of the spot on Lynnette Jennings.

Alexandria
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From: Martha McCain <mmccain_2000@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
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-Poster: Martha McCain <mmccain_2000@yahoo.com>

"Point" well taken, Maggie.  But absolute?

"Points were originally the metal tags on thongs of
leather, but by the fifteenth century the latter had
been given the French name aiguillette, and the thongs
were then called 'points'. When points bore no
aiguillettes they were said to be 'untagged'."
    "Costume in the Drama of Shakespeare and His
Contemporaries" by M. Channing Linthicum

"Laces of silk or braid, with tags or points at the
ends, were fixed to the top of the hose...."
     "Medieval Costume and Fashion" (p.222) by Herbert
Norris 

Martha



=====

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To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: art gallery
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-Poster: ches@io.com

what is the url for that gallery that we all reference to for costumes
where we can zoom into the picture?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000101bf166c$1a8b5080$6b037a86@phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pourpoints & passe-poils
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 19:15:21 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi all,

This question hasn't been answered yet, has it?
> Does anyone know what  "Passe-poils" are? The are only referenced in the
> plural; generally with either sort of pourpoint. The 15th c expression is
> typically something like: monies paid "pour faire une pourpoint
passe-poils
> vert fonce assiettes grises".  I've tried several french dictionaries but
> can only go back as far as Jean Nicot's "Thresor de la langue française"
> (1606)
> which says "Passe-poil. s. m. Petit bord de tafetas, de satin, ou d'autre
> estoffe, qui est different de celle de l'habit, & qui
> se met à l'endroit des coutures, & aux extrémitez de l'habit". This
> description is rather like contrasting piping or dagging set into a seam
or
> as edging.

The word came up last saturday at a talk by our national
archeological-leather expert at our Medieval Autumn gathering. With shoes
it's french for the narrow strip of thin leather which is used to finish the
openings, especially of later medieval shoes. In other words: a kind of
piping. I guess they did the same with these pourpoints, which were
originally rather thick, padded jackets which are hard to seam.

Henk


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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:17:53 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

 I suspect Norris is where we all got the idea that the correct term for the
tags is points, but Norris is not my resource of choice.   As for the other
quote, I'm not familiar with the author.  

Absolute? At the times they are called whatever they're called, yes. Lots of
things only have one name at any one time.  Obviously I've done my
temporalcentric trick of thinking in the 16th century alone.  For general
clarity, though, I'd still recommend calling the laces points, and the tags
aiglets, to avoid confusion across the time line.  


Cheers!

MaggiRos




A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Martha McCain [SMTP:mmccain_2000@yahoo.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, November 10, 1999 2:48 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	RE: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
> 
> 
> -Poster: Martha McCain <mmccain_2000@yahoo.com>
> 
> "Point" well taken, Maggie.  But absolute?
> 
> "Points were originally the metal tags on thongs of
> leather, but by the fifteenth century the latter had
> been given the French name aiguillette, and the thongs
> were then called 'points'. When points bore no
> aiguillettes they were said to be 'untagged'."
>     "Costume in the Drama of Shakespeare and His
> Contemporaries" by M. Channing Linthicum
> 
> "Laces of silk or braid, with tags or points at the
> ends, were fixed to the top of the hose...."
>      "Medieval Costume and Fashion" (p.222) by Herbert
> Norris 
> 
> Martha
> 
> 
> 
> =====
> 
> __________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:07:50 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Vests and Tanks
In-Reply-To: <8FD47B85A97@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> I have a couple of "Takn-tops".  Knitted sleeveless sweaters for 
> wearing over shirts.  They're pretty old-fashioned but were popular 
> in the town I grew up in in the '70s.  Colleagues laugh at them 
> when I wear them these days

Almost.  We call those "Sweater vests," and they seem to be coming back
into style.  "Tank tops" are much skimpier, usually a much finer knit
(like t-shirts, as opposed to something a sane person would be likely to
be able to knit), and came out in a astonishing variety of designs as
outerwear this summer.  

Or, at any rate, this is the local terminology/variation

Emma, from the midwestern US

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 13:21:40 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 11:35:58 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Vests and Tanks
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
>
>
>> I have a couple of "Takn-tops".  Knitted sleeveless sweaters for
>> wearing over shirts.  They're pretty old-fashioned but were popular
>> in the town I grew up in in the '70s.  Colleagues laugh at them
>> when I wear them these days
>
>Almost.  We call those "Sweater vests," and they seem to be coming back
>into style.  "Tank tops" are much skimpier, usually a much finer knit
>(like t-shirts, as opposed to something a sane person would be likely to
>be able to knit), and came out in a astonishing variety of designs as
>outerwear this summer.
>
>Or, at any rate, this is the local terminology/variation
>
>Emma, from the midwestern US
>
Same terminology here in (rainy)  Northern California.

Teddy, your colleagues will be dismayed when these same sweater vests
become popular again this winter and you're ahead of fashion.  Those skimpy
tank tops from the 70's were being worn by teens here all summer, and I
expect the 70's look, including your sweater vests, will continue to be the
rage everywhere; they work so well with the resurfacing of ABBA, platform
shoes, bell bottoms and the belly button as a fashion accessory we've been
seeing for the past year.

My just-turned-13 daughter even toyed with the idea of wearing one of her
tank tops to school over a turtle-neck shirt yesterday.  It's getting
colder here, and she hates to be cold.

I looked good in these styles in the 70's but I don't dare wear them now.
Maybe I'd wear the sweater vest though - depends on how cold it get!

LynnD
Who doesn't even wear sweats out of the house
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 13:33:14 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 14:47:08 EST
Subject: H-COST: Check out -Museum of London-
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Hi All,

Want a fun look at shoes,check out the exhibition overview from a past 
exhibition at Museum of London. It is a great museum -- put it on your "must 
do" list when in London. 

<A HREF="http://www.museum-london.org.uk/MOLsite/menu.htm">Click here: 
-Museum of London-</A> 

Sally

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 16:34:31 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com>
Subject: H-COST: 1st Century scribe accessories
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-Poster: Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com>

  This may be a bit off topic, as it might be classified as a prop, rather
than a clothing accessory, but here goes...

  I am making scrolls for a play which features the biblical character of
Zacchaeus(a Tax collector), and also for Nicodemus.  In this play, Zac is
going to visit deliquent tax payers and we already have a kind of book of
records he is using for reference.  He also has a quill, to check people
off, but we are currently ignoring where the ink for the quill comes from.
  So, what is the 1st century Roman equivalent of a Palm Pilot computer?
The quill must be parked somewhere and he must have a container of ink.
Anyone know of anything authentic I can make?

  When I try to make up something, what I come up with is a small glass
bottle on a cord, which hangs around his neck. (sort of like the small
bubble blowers kids have) The cork of the bottle has a large ring on top, so
that he can grab the small bottle with his fingers, and fit his thumb into
that ring and remove the cork with the same and, leaving his other hand free
to dip the quill.
  Our book consists of a number of loose pages, which have been folded in
half and then placed over a wood dowel.  Through holes in the pages, a
leather strap has been tied to the dowel rod so that the book can hang from
the character's shoulder like a purse.
  For a place to park the quill pen...  I imagine a leather pocket which is
made part of the book, and attached to the dowel inside.

Joe Dunfee,  joe@dunfee.com
Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 16:00:21 1999
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Well, the classic place for scribes to carry their quills is behind the
ear. Doesn't need a special container, just an ear. As a matter of fact
there is a type of bird called a secretary bird which has sprays of
feathers at the 'ears'. The Europeans who first saw them thought they
looked like secretaries running about with quill pens behind their ears. 


 I also question, probably too late, why you chose a book form for the
'written upon' part? As far I know, the Romans used scrolls. The
book-form that we are familiar with evolved post-Roman. 

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 16:03:18 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1st Century scribe accessories
In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.32.19991110213431.009064f8@shadow.net>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 10 Nov 1999, Joe Dunfee wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com>
> 
>   This may be a bit off topic, as it might be classified as a prop, rather
> than a clothing accessory, but here goes...
> 
> The quill must be parked somewhere and he must have a container of ink.
> Anyone know of anything authentic I can make?
> 
I've seen plenty of depictions of 'portable scribe kits', though 
usually in Egyptian art (I think one of them even makes it as a
hieroglyph). That might be getting a bit old. Why not just use a
wax tablet and a stylus - that was often used by the Romans I understand.
The scribe kits are designed to hang from the belt usually btw.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 16:13:57 1999
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Subject: H-COST: 1st Century scribe accessories
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-Poster: Celeste Chadwick <cchadwic@mdsi.bc.ca>

Actually, I would recommend a wax tablet. Here's a webpage location on how
to construct one:

http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/tablets.html

Celeste
Celeste Chadwick
Development Administrative Assistant
MDSI Mobile Data Solutions 
10271 Shellbridge Way
Richmond, BC
Canada, V6X 2W8
Tel: 604 207 6459
Fax: 604 207 6060
cchadwic@mdsi.bc.ca
www.mdsi-advantex.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 16:26:26 1999
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-Poster: Celeste Chadwick <cchadwic@mdsi.bc.ca>

Found another webpage location with more instructions on how to construct
one! 

http://www.provide.net/~randyaf/tablet.html

>Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 14:32:18 -0800
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>From: Celeste Chadwick <cchadwic@mdsi.bc.ca>
>Subject: H-COST: 1st Century scribe accessories
>
>Actually, I would recommend a wax tablet. Here's a webpage location on how
to construct one:
>
>http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/tablets.html
>
>Celeste
Celeste Chadwick
Development Administrative Assistant
MDSI Mobile Data Solutions 
10271 Shellbridge Way
Richmond, BC
Canada, V6X 2W8
Tel: 604 207 6459
Fax: 604 207 6060
cchadwic@mdsi.bc.ca
www.mdsi-advantex.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 16:42:58 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <5B38B8D7EED8D211997F00A0C9E57FB91DB5A5@HP-LH3>
Subject: Re: H-COST: finishing lacing cords
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>
> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
>For general
> clarity, though, I'd still recommend calling the laces points, and the
tags
> aiglets, to avoid confusion across the time line.
> MaggiRos

  This would also denote usage.  I think Maggi has a good idea.
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 16:47:51 1999
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Amazon Drygoods does indeed have this book in stock; I don't know how
many.

--Charlene

--
When the origin of a thing is remote and mysterious it has been the
custom to attribute it to the Devil or to Asia.  -- Sir William Gurney
Benham, _Playing_Cards_


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 19:01:48 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <brujne@creighton.edu>, <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 20:18:22 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

It was the Dover Christmas Catalog.  It advertises "Featuring over 1200
beautiful and practical books for gift giving, most $1.00 to $6.95"
Funny, they do not accept credit card or phone orders!  The address listed
is:
Dover Publications, Inc.
31 East 2nd Street
Mineola, New York 11501-3582

Payment in full must accompany all orders.....
I cannot find a phone number or web address anywhere on the thing.  They
also say that they offer a complete 112 page catalog you can get if you ask
for it on the order form.  I wonder why they do not want business but send
out catalogs???  I don't know anyone who orders stuff without at least a
phone number.  Has anyone ordered from them?  How was your experience?
-----Original Message-----
From: Cindy Abel <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
To: Megan McHugh <mmchugh@starpower.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books


Can you give me the address to get the Dover book catalog and does it
cost anything?

Thanks


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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 20:35:30 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: art gallery
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 11/10/1999 07:38:38 Pacific Standard Time, ches@io.com 
writes:

<< what is the url for that gallery that we all reference to for costumes
 where we can zoom into the picture?
 
 Sincerely,
 F. Havas
 ches@io.com
  >>
There are many many of them.  The SF De Young has zoom, as well as few 
others.  Did you need something specific? Here's a few of the best, but not 
sure if any are what you wanted.

http://www.thinker.org/imagebase/index.html (DeYoung)

Carol Gerten's Fine Arts
http://cgfa.kelloggcreek.com/

Mark Harden's Artchive
http://www.artchive.com/artchive/ftptoc/leonardo_ext.html

Web Gallery of Art
http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/artist.html



+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,  and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here, while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 20:25:31 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 08:18 PM 11/10/99 -0500, Megan McHugh wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
>It was the Dover Christmas Catalog.  It advertises "Featuring over 1200
>beautiful and practical books for gift giving, most $1.00 to $6.95"
>Funny, they do not accept credit card or phone orders!  The address listed
>is:
>Dover Publications, Inc.
>31 East 2nd Street
>Mineola, New York 11501-3582
>
>Payment in full must accompany all orders.....
>I cannot find a phone number or web address anywhere on the thing.  They
>also say that they offer a complete 112 page catalog you can get if you ask
>for it on the order form.  I wonder why they do not want business but send
>out catalogs???  I don't know anyone who orders stuff without at least a
>phone number.  Has anyone ordered from them?  How was your experience?

Yes, I have ordered from the Dover catalog. And, yes, you must use a check
and USPS mail <g>. But you get the best choice of their publications, which
you don't get at regular bookstores, even the large ones. And they have
quite a number of catalogs on different subjects.

Evidently they get plenty of business without a webpage or email or phone
orders or credit card orders <g>.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 20:38:39 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

    Credit cards cost a company money.  I imagine Dover prefers not to accept 
them to keep costs down.  Many museum shops, including ours, deal with Dover 
all the time and are satisfied.  I'm not sure if they have a toll-free 
number; their regular number is 576-294-7000.  The only thing about them I 
have found slightly annoying is, if part of a shipment is back-ordered, they 
will send it by itself later and charge you the usually higher shipping 
involved for sending just a few items.

    Dover re-prints many out of print books which would otherwise be 
virtually impossible to find.  Their historic paper dolls are great fun.  
They also have a large line of $1 and $2 books from the 19th century (Jane 
Austens are $2.)

Ann Wass
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 20:48:20 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 22:12:40 +0000
From: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: QEWU
References: <M.110299.090134.47@erols.com>
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

The catalog sounds good. Info on that please?  : )

Raella

trekona@erols.com wrote:

> -Poster: trekona@erols.com
>
> Hello
>     Did the person who was looking for _QE's Wardrobe Unlocked_ ever find a
> copy? If someone is still looking for it, my catalog from 'Hard-to-Find
> Needlework Books' just arrived and p24 lists QEWU for $175.
>     If anyone is interested, the stock number is #31302 and Bette Feinstein can
> be reached at 617/969-0942 or 96 Roundwood Rd Newton MA 02464.
>     I have no idea how many copies she may have of this.
>
>     -Judy Mitchell
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 21:08:29 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 19:00:37 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I agree with this - with the exception that buying a Dover book without
looking at it first can cause you a lot of problems.   Many of the books
will cover a large historical time span and the illustrations will not be
dated.  Quite often there is litle or no text to go with them.  
If you hit on the right one for you it can be wonderful, if not... well they
are inexpensive.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: AnnBWass@aol.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books
>Date: Wed, Nov 10, 1999, 6:47 PM
>

>
>-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com
>
>    Credit cards cost a company money.  I imagine Dover prefers not to
accept 
>them to keep costs down.  Many museum shops, including ours, deal with
Dover 
>all the time and are satisfied.  I'm not sure if they have a toll-free 
>number; their regular number is 576-294-7000.  The only thing about them I 
>have found slightly annoying is, if part of a shipment is back-ordered,
they 
>will send it by itself later and charge you the usually higher shipping 
>involved for sending just a few items.
>
>    Dover re-prints many out of print books which would otherwise be 
>virtually impossible to find.  Their historic paper dolls are great fun.  
>They also have a large line of $1 and $2 books from the 19th century (Jane 
>Austens are $2.)
>
>Ann Wass
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 21:23:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 22:48:04 +0000
From: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

This is a fun catalog w/lots of droolable stuff esp for victorian nuts

Raella

"Fairchild, Connie E." wrote:

> -Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
>
> I received a PAST TIMES gift catalog in the mail recently and on the cover
> is a beautifully reproduced portrait which they describe as "Portrait of a
> Lady in a richly embroidered dress attributed to Daniel Dumonstier (1565 -
> 1656).  Courtesy of Sotheby's, London."  This is not my period of most
> interest (1830's - 1840's is), but thought some of you might be interested
> in this portrait due to the very clear large image and detail shown, it is
> from the mid-chest up.  The georgeous ruff (I think it's called) is
> incredibly done, if I knew how to make lace, I think I could look at this to
> make a pattern.  I don't know the descriptions of the parts of the apparel
> to do it justice with a description, but the minute details are striking.
>
> They describe their catalog as having gifts and home accents inspired by
> Great Britain's past, it is a new one to me and have not seen this one
> before.  However, I think I'll choose a couple of items just so I can get
> another catalog to see what they have on the next cover!!  They have some
> medieval-style Christmas cards which have caught my interest.
>
> They have a web site www.past-times.com and on the catalog request page
> although they don't have the present cover, they do show a different one
> which was also a period portrait.
>
> No affiliation, not even a customer, yet.   Connie Fairchild
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 22:06:41 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 23:29:46 +0000
From: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

So far I've been able to use fear as an effective method for keeping most all
but the craziest (alas, there are a few) from darkening my door unanounced. *
Evil grin * I'm a firm believer in the civilized custom of calling ( not too
late ) before plopping yourself on a doorstep.  You may have to turn away
(graciously, of course) those who are not so civilized, a few times before
they get the hint. If you don't, they will continue with a method that
apparently works.
My 2c.
Raella

Lady Unicorn wrote:

> -Poster: "Lady Unicorn" <ladyunicorn@aol.com>
>
> Question to pose to those of you with a sewing business run from your home.
> Have any of you had people just stop by, unnanounced, to pick up, drop off,
> try on etc. and how did you handle it? Specifically during odd times like
> 8:30 pm on a week night or on a Sunday.
>
> Carrie
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 22:11:16 1999
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From: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.a5054ce2.255b7762@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: art gallery
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 10:13:27 -0600
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-Poster: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>

Thanks! I needed the one that sends out postcards of the images and allows
you to search by title or keyword in the description.

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: <MzScahlett@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: art gallery


>
> -Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 11/10/1999 07:38:38 Pacific Standard Time, ches@io.com
> writes:
>
> << what is the url for that gallery that we all reference to for costumes
>  where we can zoom into the picture?
>
>  Sincerely,
>  F. Havas
>  ches@io.com
>   >>
> There are many many of them.  The SF De Young has zoom, as well as few
> others.  Did you need something specific? Here's a few of the best, but
not
> sure if any are what you wanted.
>
> http://www.thinker.org/imagebase/index.html (DeYoung)
>
> Carol Gerten's Fine Arts
> http://cgfa.kelloggcreek.com/
>
> Mark Harden's Artchive
> http://www.artchive.com/artchive/ftptoc/leonardo_ext.html
>
> Web Gallery of Art
> http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/artist.html
>
>
>
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Costumes & Custom Clothing
> Theatrical Costume Design
> "If we shadows have offended, think but this,  and all is mended,
> That you have but slumbered here, while these visions did appear."
> A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
> QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
> FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.1c9535a9.255b882b@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

>     Credit cards cost a company money.  I imagine Dover prefers not to
accept
> them to keep costs down.  Many museum shops, including ours, deal with
Dover
> all the time and are satisfied.

Amen to the credit cards for businesses.

>     Dover re-prints many out of print books which would otherwise be
> virtually impossible to find.  Their historic paper dolls are great fun.
> They also have a large line of $1 and $2 books from the 19th century (Jane
> Austens are $2.)

Most of the costume books I have on my shelves are re-printed by Dover.
Many places are carrying the Dovers books now.  In Richmond, you can buy
them at museums, vintages shops, Barnes & Nobles, and Ben Franklin's Crafts
& More.  I found some Dover books I had not seen before last week at Ben
Franklins.  I have picked up clip art books and CDs from Dover from Egyptian
to Art Deco.

The Dover paper dolls are big sellers on my Paper Doll bookstore.    I am
really surprised that so many people are into historic costumed paper dolls.
Last week, at Ben Franklin's I bought Dover costume coloring books and
sticker books for a friend.  People don't mind spending between $2-$10 for a
costume book and giving it as a gift.  I like decorating packages with the
Dover costume stickers.  It makes the postal worker smile, too!  Costuming
must work for Dover publications, they keep coming out with new ones.  <Tom
Tierney must be smiling somewhere>

Later... Penny

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 23:28:06 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books
Message-Id: <942298998.14200.180@excite.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 21:43:18 PST
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> >     Credit cards cost a company money.  I imagine Dover prefers not to
> accept
> > them to keep costs down.  Many museum shops, including ours, deal with
> Dover
> > all the time and are satisfied.

Another satisfied customer piping up. Though their insistance on checks
instead of credit and a woeful lack of a comprehensive webpage can be
aggrivating, I still look to them for their wide variety and reasonable
prices. I don't even mind paying a little more for shipping, if they have to
send an order in separate parts.

>  I have picked up clip art books and CDs from Dover from Egyptian
> to Art Deco.

Not to mention their alphabet books, with CD included. Duo-platformed for
both PC and Mac. Love the Celtic and Victorian ones!
 
> The Dover paper dolls are big sellers on my Paper Doll bookstore.    
> Costuming must work for Dover publications, they keep coming out with new
ones.  

OK, confession time. I have nearly the whole collection of paper doll books.
Don't tell anybody! 

<Tom Tierney must be smiling somewhere>

The last time I talked with his neice (a friend of mine) she spoke as though
he were still alive and kickin'. Hmmmm . . . perhaps I should go for an
autographed set of books . . .

Kate
----
StitchWitch

A learned bastard takes precedence over an ignorant high priest. - The
Talmud, 5th Cen.




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 10 23:59:41 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <942298998.14200.180@excite.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 01:14:00 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

> >  I have picked up clip art books and CDs from Dover from Egyptian
> > to Art Deco.
>
> Not to mention their alphabet books, with CD included. Duo-platformed for
> both PC and Mac. Love the Celtic and Victorian ones!

I saw today, in Barnes & Noble that they are carrying inexpensive Dover
books on needlework.  I bought last summer Dover's collection of stained
glass windows.  This is really cool!!! One is Egyptian, another Celtic, and
another one Tiffany Windows.  You can paint the windows in the books and use
them in your windows.  What fun!!!

> OK, confession time. I have nearly the whole collection of paper doll
books.
> Don't tell anybody!

I usually buy two of each book.  One for me to keep and the other for Katie
to cut up.  A friend brough me back from England a 12 or 15 inch high
Princess Di paper doll set, called Dressing Princess Diana.  Included are 15
complete outfits and 49 ways to dress her.  All the clothes are put on the
doll with putty.  Needless to say Katie and I fight over this one.  I have
not seen this set in the States.

Are there any more historic costume paper doll collectors out there on the
list???

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 00:44:36 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 22:51:46 -0800
From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Deely-boppers in catalog
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



Janice Dallas wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
> 
> For those who were interested in them, I just found some deely-boppers
> in the Oriental Trading Co. Christmas catalog. 
<snip>

Thank you.  I am currently coding for the Series II light up Deely
Boppers.  But the price on the ones you found is definitely right.

Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 02:28:02 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 02:43:32 -0600
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Karie Mitchell wrote:

> >We have a high-persona event coming up.  It's geographically and
> >temporally far from my usual persona.  For this event I'll be a late
> >15th C Italian (Venice) fruitseller (preferably female).  Any >pointers to
> >appropriate clothing?
>
> This might be a bit too late-period, but there is a picture of an Italian
> woman selling fruit at <http://www.lepg.org/gallery.htm> (about mid-page),
> by Vincenzo Campi, 1580.  Or try the search engine at
> <http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/search.html> looking for Italian (1450 - 1500).
> There are several images you will have to go through but it's worth the
> effort.  Good luck!

Sorry for the delay in reponding.  I was cleaning out my folders and found this
unread.  *SIGH*

Yes, 1580 is a bit late.  I've been searching various art sites with no luck;
very few women, fewer lower class.  Guess I need to spend the afternoon digging
through the art books at the library.

Thanks for the pointers,
--Charlene

--
When the origin of a thing is remote and mysterious it has been the custom to
attribute it to the Devil or to Asia.  -- Sir William Gurney Benham,
_Playing_Cards_


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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:45:04 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Tanks and Vests
In-reply-to: <199911102126.OAA11777@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> Teddy, your colleagues will be dismayed when these same sweater vests
> become popular again this winter and you're ahead of fashion.  Those
> skimpy tank tops from the 70's were being worn by teens here all
> summer, and I expect the 70's look, including your sweater vests, will
> continue to be the rage everywhere; they work so well with the
> resurfacing of ABBA, platform shoes, bell bottoms and the belly button
> as a fashion accessory we've been seeing for the past year.

<Chuckle!>  As I *love* flares and have a pair of genuine early 
1970's flared jeans I often wear to work, perhaps I'll combine them 
with my brightly coloured striped tank-top and see if i can find the 
orange and yellow leather platform shoes (with 3-inch yellowcork 
platforms) a friend passed on to me the other year....  Now, where 
to get a wide collared flowery shirt to wear under the tank-top....<g>


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 08:07:37 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 11/10/99 6:19:35 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
mmchugh@starpower.net writes:

<<  I wonder why they do not want business but send
 out catalogs???  I don't know anyone who orders stuff without at least a
 phone number.  Has anyone ordered from them?  How was your experience? >>
 Perhaps they don't have all of the bells and whistles because their prices 
are so amazingly cheap.  I have found their books overall to be excellent 
resources.  I order them for our library, so the librarian is the one who 
deals with them.  And the're so cheap I don't mind so much when one of them 
walks from the GT500 section of our library.  I just order another one.   
Wouldn't feel quite the same about QE's Wardrobe. Cheryl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 09:05:18 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:19:59 -0600 (EST)
To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
cc: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Subject: H-COST: Coronets
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-Poster: ches@io.com

I need some sources of images of true baronial coronets prior to 1600.
Does anyone have any sources online or otherwise that they can point me
to?

Thanks!

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@mackie.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover books
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Just to clarify, the telephone number is (516) 294-7000.  I just spoke with them and the people in their customer service department seem very helpful.

Colleen McDonald Hinrichs

>>> <AnnBWass@aol.com> 11/10 6:47 PM >>>

-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com 

    Credit cards cost a company money.  I imagine Dover prefers not to accept 
them to keep costs down.  Many museum shops, including ours, deal with Dover 
all the time and are satisfied.  I'm not sure if they have a toll-free 
number; their regular number is 576-294-7000.  The only thing about them I 
have found slightly annoying is, if part of a shipment is back-ordered, they 
will send it by itself later and charge you the usually higher shipping 
involved for sending just a few items.

    Dover re-prints many out of print books which would otherwise be 
virtually impossible to find.  Their historic paper dolls are great fun.  
They also have a large line of $1 and $2 books from the 19th century (Jane 
Austens are $2.)

Ann Wass
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 12:53:57 -0500 (EST)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: 15th c. Ecclesiastical Dress
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Does anyone have any good books or articles which cover the development of
ecclesiastical dress (alb, surplice, chasubule, etc.) in the 15th
century--or through the middle ages in general? I've been looking all
over, but haven't found anything to start with.

Thanks much,

Drea


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 12:01:39 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 15:49:48 -0800
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tanks and Vests
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Now, where 
>to get a wide collared flowery shirt to wear under the tank-top....<g>

In a second-hand clothing shop.  Our thrift stores here in California are
full of those old things.  

BTW, in California, a tank top is like a scoop-necked very sleeveless
t-shirt.  They look like the top of a bathing suit.  There are undershirts
that shape, but the outerwear ones like my teenage daughter wears are made
of slightly thicker material, always in one or more colours.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 13:08:49 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 14:22:46 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: H-COST: Portrait of a Lady
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-Poster: Gerekr@aol.com

On 11/10/99 7:41 PM h-costume@indra.com wrote:

>From:  jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us (Jean Zerby)
>Sender:    owner-h-costume@indra.com
>Reply-to:  h-costume@indra.com
>To:    h-costume@indra.com
>
>-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
>
>This is a fun catalog w/lots of droolable stuff esp for victorian nuts
>
>Raella
>
>"Fairchild, Connie E." wrote:
>
>> -Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
>>
>> I received a PAST TIMES gift catalog in the mail recently


And of course, is our regular source of the Medieval Women calendar!

Chimene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 13:17:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 14:33:16 EST
Subject: H-COST: Veterns Day Announcement
To: h-costume@indra.com, vintage@indra.com, costumedc@onelist.com
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Dear All,

As this is the day we celebrate veterns, this announcement is timely. 
Calendar 2001 will be titled, Historic Fashions During the War Years. (Yes, 
it seems early but the cover has to be designed by December 20, 1999). We 
want to explore not just uniforms and clothing of the front line personnel 
but the effect on clothing, cloth, and culture on the home front. Time 
periods are 1750 - 1950 and the topic can be interpreted broadly. 

We are currently sending out packets for costume collections to be featured, 
and I need your help in spreading the word to those who would like a packet. 
Please send this email to curators of costume collections in North America or 
post to other lists Ask them to call me to receive a packet by November 29. 
Email requests are also acceptable.

Thank you in advance for your help in spreading the word,
Sally Queen

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 13:18:08 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 14:32:42 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: 15th c. Ecclesiastical Dress
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< Does anyone have any good books or articles which cover the development of
 ecclesiastical dress (alb, surplice, chasubule, etc.) in the 15th
 century--or through the middle ages in general? >>

Braun, Joseph.  "Die Liturgisches Gewandung im Occident unde Orient."  
Freiburg:  Herdersche Verlagshandlung, 1907.

Ireland, Marion.  "Textile Art in the Church."  Nashville:  Abingdon Press, 
1971.

Mayer-Thurman, Christa.  "Raiment for the Lord's Service:  A Thousand Years 
of Western Vestments."  Chicago:  Art Institute of Chicago, 1975.

Pocknee, Cyril.  "Liturgical Vesture:  It's Origins and Development."  
Westminster:  Canterbury Press, 1961.

There are others, but these should have all the information you need.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 13:32:50 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 14:48:22 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Coronets
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Francesca, 

Here's a source for incredibly beautiful reproductions. I'd e-mail the maker, 
and see what he uses for a primary reference.

http://mh101.infi.net/~fcderosa/

angela

In a message dated 11/11/1999 07:22:58 Pacific Standard Time, ches@io.com 
writes:

<< I need some sources of images of true baronial coronets prior to 1600.
 Does anyone have any sources online or otherwise that they can point me
 to?
 
 Thanks!
 
 Sincerely,
 F. Havas
 ches@io.com >>


+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Costumes & Custom Clothing
Theatrical Costume Design
"O, what a world of vile ill-favored faults  looks handsome in three hundred 
pounds a year!..."
The Merry Wives of Windsor, III, iv - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 13:55:06 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 12:16:35 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tanks and Vests
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:
><Chuckle!>  As I *love* flares and have a pair of genuine early
>1970's flared jeans I often wear to work, perhaps I'll combine them
>with my brightly coloured striped tank-top and see if i can find the
>orange and yellow leather platform shoes (with 3-inch yellowcork
>platforms) a friend passed on to me the other year....  Now, where
>to get a wide collared flowery shirt to wear under the tank-top....<g>

Now would that really be "authentic"? (grin)

My recollection is that the wide-collared flowery shirts are more mid 
to late 60's, while platforms are more of an early to mid 70's (yes, 
bleeding edge fashion hounds had low platforms in the late 60's - i 
did). Flares are late 60's to mid 70's so they'd work with either. 
The tight skimpy vests (US term) over a shirt is definitely a 70's 
kind of thing.

Anyone watch "That 70's Show" (in the US). Much as i am not 
particularly nostalgic for the past and i do particularly dislike sit 
coms (shudder), i have to say, they really seem to have distilled the 
'70's in this show.

Anahita Gauri bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi

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-Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>

At 10.45 +0100 99-11-11, teddy1 wrote:
>
><Chuckle!>  As I *love* flares and have a pair of genuine early
>1970's flared jeans I often wear to work, perhaps I'll combine them
>with my brightly coloured striped tank-top and see if i can find the
>orange and yellow leather platform shoes (with 3-inch yellowcork
>platforms) a friend passed on to me the other year....  Now, where
>to get a wide collared flowery shirt to wear under the tank-top....<g>

	Oh, the horror! I'm really and truly grateful that you didn't wear
*this* on your visit to Sweden. I would have had an heartattack :-) I
*hate* the yearly 1970s style! Quite one of the ugliest styles ever
invented IM(NS)HO.

/Ninni


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 14:55:17 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 14:54:21 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tanks and Vests
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

I have to side with Ninni on this one, I hate 1970's styles. I escaped
from the decade once, I don't want to have to do it again! However I will
admit in public (does this list count as public?) that my freshman year
of highschool ('76) I distinctly recall wearing a pair of deep purple
bell-bottoms to school. 

Karen

On Thu, 11 Nov 1999 21:00:35 +0100 Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>
writes:
> 
> -Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>
> 
> At 10.45 +0100 99-11-11, teddy1 wrote:
> >
> ><Chuckle!>  As I *love* flares and have a pair of genuine early
> >1970's flared jeans I often wear to work, perhaps I'll combine them
> >with my brightly coloured striped tank-top and see if i can find 
> the
> >orange and yellow leather platform shoes (with 3-inch yellowcork
> >platforms) a friend passed on to me the other year....  Now, where
> >to get a wide collared flowery shirt to wear under the 
> tank-top....<g>
> 
> 	Oh, the horror! I'm really and truly grateful that you 
> didn't wear
> *this* on your visit to Sweden. I would have had an heartattack :-) 
> I
> *hate* the yearly 1970s style! Quite one of the ugliest styles ever
> invented IM(NS)HO.
> 
> /Ninni
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 17:59:39 1999
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From: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: questions in need of answers
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 18:18:10 -0600
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-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>

     Please help if you can....  

     Please advise me of reliable sources that are currently available
(ILL, Internet, museums, etc.) in English that can answer the following
questions:

1.  When and where did Cloisonne used for jewelry, not home decorative
items, originate?  (Yes, I know China perfected the technique and the
technique spread throughout Asia as a decoration, but I'm specifically
trying to date jewelry.)
2.  When and where did Cloisonne used as jewelry enter the European sector?
3.  Are any pictures of early European examples available?  I have a couple
of pictures that seem to show similar enameling from around 1550 AD in
court jewelry, but the picture quality is poor.  I can't tell whether the
pieces are cloissone.   

    Thanks in advance.

Meg
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 17:10:36 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tanks and Vests
In-Reply-To: <l03102802b450cfaef93d@[212.151.169.40]>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>><Chuckle!>  As I *love* flares and have a pair of genuine early
>>1970's flared jeans I often wear to work, perhaps I'll combine them
>>with my brightly coloured striped tank-top and see if i can find the
>>orange and yellow leather platform shoes (with 3-inch yellowcork
>>platforms) a friend passed on to me the other year....  Now, where
>>to get a wide collared flowery shirt to wear under the tank-top....<g>
>
>	Oh, the horror! I'm really and truly grateful that you didn't wear
>*this* on your visit to Sweden. I would have had an heartattack :-) I
>*hate* the yearly 1970s style! Quite one of the ugliest styles ever
>invented IM(NS)HO.

OTOH, many of us in California weren't wearing this mainstream style in the
early 70's.  Many of us were wearing t-shirt, ripped jeans, sandals, and
beads, or long flowing dresses and lots of ethnic embroidery.  This was the
anti-polyester crowd, admittedly - the folks the press called Hippies.  By
the late 70's we were hating Disco and still wearing lots of cotton.  Some
people (Berkeley, Santa Cruz) still dress like this today, with
Birkenstocks as the sandals of preference.  Tie-dye is better these days too.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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Subject: H-COST: Re: Dover catalogue
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



As a teenager, I ordered many books from the Dover catalogue, which came to 
our house every month or so and always offered a dazzling variety of books. I 
bought the Cases of Judge Dee, a Chinese detective created by a Dutch (I 
think) writer; books on Egyptian jewelry; children's books -- all kinds of 
things. I don't know what they are like today (I haven't seen a catalogue for 
years, probably lucky for me), but they were great then. And as they put out 
so many books you can buy in bookstores, I would assume they are reliable.

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 20:34:30 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 18:52:00 -0800
From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

Re someone's comment that "since Dover publishes so many books you can
find in bookstores their books must be reliable . . ."

The mechanisms of distribution, and even publishing, have little to do
with a book's reliability or overall quality.  Books are not published
or distributed unless three entities believe they will sell:  the author
(who does the work and bears the expenses of writing the book), the
publisher (who does the work and bears the expenses of producing the
book), and the bookseller (who takes some risk when he/she carries the
book).  A salable book (or more accurately, one these entities think is
salable; they are sometimes mistaken) can be either good or bad.
Although most people involved in the book business like books, believe
creating and reading books is a good thing, and do the best jobs they
can, it all still comes down to the bottom line:  whether this
particular book will sell.  It takes many thousands of dollars to create
one book.  If these entities think a book is great but won't sell, they
probably won't create it or try to sell it.  If they think it's not very
good but will sell well, they probably will create it and try to sell
it.

Where "available in bookstores" comes into this is:  An increasing
proportion of books are sold through large chains such as Barnes & Noble
and Borders whose buying/selection is completely or partially
centralized.  A large proportion of the books chosen for chain
distribution are those the store buyers think Mr./Ms. Average American
will buy.  This tends to cut down on the number of books chosen in
specialized subject areas like costuming--and the books that are chosen
often tend to be color picture books, rather than technical.  If a
publisher can't sell to the chains, his/her other major option is
independent booksellers--the number of which is decreasing daily.  Of
course, Amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com, and other on-line booksellers
carry almost every book in print.  But the large number of books makes
any given book harder for the casual browser to find.  And, the presence
of the large on-line booksellers taking cuts in profits to give
customers discounts is making it even harder for the independents, who
can't afford that, to stay in business.

What I'm getting to is, a book "not available in bookstores" is less
likely to be "bad," than on a highly specialized or obscure topic.

(And yes, our books are "available in bookstores" and even to some
extent in the chains.)

Fran Grimble


---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 21:01:19 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 21:30:12 -0600
From: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

> 3.  Are any pictures of early European examples available?  I have a couple
> of pictures that seem to show similar enameling from around 1550 AD in
> court jewelry, but the picture quality is poor.  I can't tell whether the
> pieces are cloissone.

There is a book in the Sam Houston State University library that covers Spanish
Renaissance jewelry which I seem to remember includes several very good
pictures of cloisonné pieces.  Muller, Priscilla E., 1930- Jewels in Spain,
1500-1800.

-Magdalena

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 21:36:29 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #781
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-Poster: Jafath@aol.com

Hi, list!

I am caught up on this list for the first time in three months, so I'm 
celebrating by posting to it, for a change.

I'm playing with the idea of making something 1810ish. As it's not anything 
I've done before, I'm a bit short on reference materials as yet, but I _do_ 
happen to have Dover's paper doll book "of the Regency Period." Here's my 
question: they show EVERY daytime dress with what they refer to as "a betsy" 
-- a neckpiece, separate from the dress, made up of varying amounts of 
frills, ruffles, and lace. So, I ask: (a) was it that ubiquitous? and (b) 
haven't I seen it referred to by a more dignified name, somewhere? Oh, and 
(c) has anyone made one that can offer advice? We might add in (d) is there a 
suitable American source I should investigate?

Jo Anne



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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 20:54:54 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Joe Dunfee wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com>
> 
>   This may be a bit off topic, as it might be classified as a prop, rather
> than a clothing accessory, but here goes...
> 
>   I am making scrolls for a play which features the biblical character of
> Zacchaeus(a Tax collector), and also for Nicodemus.  In this play, Zac is
> going to visit deliquent tax payers and we already have a kind of book of
> records he is using for reference.  He also has a quill, to check people
> off, but we are currently ignoring where the ink for the quill comes from.
>   So, what is the 1st century Roman equivalent of a Palm Pilot computer?
> The quill must be parked somewhere and he must have a container of ink.
> Anyone know of anything authentic I can make?

I second the recommendation of a wax tablet and stylus.  These date back
long before the Romans and were used thru the Middle Ages.

Carolyn (and a scribe when I'm not a costumer)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 22:19:15 1999
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Subject: H-COST: The making of top hats
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

I have jsut discovered, after looking through a site with wonderful
'fantasy' style victorian clothing, that I want one. Unfortunately, I
cannot afford to go out and spend $200 on purchasing one. Is it possible
for me to make one myself? If so, where would I get a pattern or a form to
cover? Is there a online resource that I haven't found?

Thanks very much!

Kris
ps.. the site is.. http://www.victoriacostumiere.com/

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 11 23:05:43 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Not movies again
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 22:31:16 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I was home sick today and I got a chance to watch Cousin Bette.  Strange
story.  Completely out of my period, but that dress that you see Hortence
in towards the beginning of the movie?  The one with the mini-tassel fringe
around the collar?  Beautiful.  I must say that it really struck my fancy. 
Oh, then there was that cape(?) wrap(?) that she has on when she went to
but the Four Horseman statue.  Nifty.

Kathlene 
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-Poster: Joe Dunfee <joe@dunfee.com>

  Again, you all have come up with a number of great replies.  I am not the
decision maker, but will definitely lobby for a wax tablet.  It would be
both authentic, and easy to make. 
  I also posted to the Stagecraft maillist, which I would think would be the
better place, but I haven't gotten a single reply there!

Joe Dunfee,  joe@dunfee.com
Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA

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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Jafath@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Jafath@aol.com
> 
> Hi, list!
> 
> I am caught up on this list for the first time in three months, so I'm
> celebrating by posting to it, for a change.
> 
> I'm playing with the idea of making something 1810ish. As it's not anything
> I've done before, I'm a bit short on reference materials as yet, but I _do_
> happen to have Dover's paper doll book "of the Regency Period." Here's my
> question: they show EVERY daytime dress with what they refer to as "a betsy"
> -- a neckpiece, separate from the dress, made up of varying amounts of
> frills, ruffles, and lace. So, I ask: (a) was it that ubiquitous? and (b)
> haven't I seen it referred to by a more dignified name, somewhere? Oh, and
> (c) has anyone made one that can offer advice? We might add in (d) is there a
> suitable American source I should investigate?
> 
> Jo Anne
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
They are called chemisettes and there is an excellent pattern for one in
Janet Arnolds patterns of fashion which covers this period. They are not
ubiquitous but very handy on a cold day as the neckline is a bit
draughty believe me. They are basically a short tabard tied under the
bust and worn under the gown, with a variey of necklines from flat
collar to multipile frill. She also has a couple of dress patterns in
this book which can be used as a starting point and the riding habit
spencer is a good basic style to work from.
Check out revolution in fashion for very nice frocks

dawn

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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tanks and Vests
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>



> >1970's flared jeans I often wear to work, perhaps I'll combine them
> >with my brightly coloured striped tank-top and see if i can find the
> >orange and yellow leather platform shoes (with 3-inch yellowcork
> >platforms) a friend passed on to me the other year....  Now, where to get
> >a wide collared flowery shirt to wear under the tank-top....<g>
> 
> Now would that really be "authentic"? (grin)
> 
> My recollection is that the wide-collared flowery shirts are more mid to
> late 60's,

Not where I grew up.  The only time I was *ever* fashionable was 
my first year at school in 1972 (the year before they introduced a 
uniform) and I had wide-waisted flares and wide-collared flowery 
shirts (with matching "ties" on elastic) one in lime greens, one in 
vivid pinks and one in bright sky-blues.

> while platforms are more of an early to mid 70's 

Just the right period then




Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tanks and Vests
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Kayta 

> Now, where 
> >to get a wide collared flowery shirt to wear under the tank-top....<g>
> 
> In a second-hand clothing shop.  Our thrift stores here in California are
> full of those old things.  

Here too, unfortunately most of them are nylon or 
polyester....<bleuch!>

> BTW, in California, a tank top is like a scoop-necked very
> sleeveless t-shirt.  They look like the top of a bathing suit. 
> There are undershirts that shape, but the outerwear ones like my
> teenage daughter wears are made of slightly thicker material,
> always in one or more colours. 

We have those here, and they're generally called vests (like the 
underwear version) or muscle vests or muscle t-shirts

Tank-tops are definately the (naff) knitted ones....<g>

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Ninni,

You had a close escape.  I had the flares with me in Sweden, I just 
didn't wear them the day we went to the silk mill.

> ><Chuckle!>  As I *love* flares and have a pair of genuine early
> >1970's flared jeans I often wear to work, perhaps I'll combine them
> >with my brightly coloured striped tank-top and see if i can find the
> >orange and yellow leather platform shoes (with 3-inch yellowcork
> >platforms) a friend passed on to me the other year....  Now, where to get
> >a wide collared flowery shirt to wear under the tank-top....<g>
> 
>  Oh, the horror! I'm really and truly grateful that you didn't wear
> *this* on your visit to Sweden. I would have had an heartattack :-) I
> *hate* the yearly 1970s style! Quite one of the ugliest styles ever
> invented IM(NS)HO.
 


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: 70's shirts
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:31:11 -0500
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>


> - -Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
	wrote:
> My recollection is that the wide-collared flowery shirts are more mid 
> to late 60's, 
> 
Not in my area in the mid 60's (the Midwest, but we are usually a little
behind -- but not 10 yrs!).  The mid-60's was small collars sometimes button
down, I don't remember any colors in shirts but white and then sometimes
with fine pinstripes.  There were narrow lapels on suits, pant legs were
"pegged" to be narrow, and ties were narrow as well.

My nephew asked me to make him a "Disco Shirt" to wear to his high school
dance in about 1977 when disco was all the rage. The fabric he chose was
bright blue satin  with BIG flowers (I may be off a year or two, but am
fairly close).

Connie Fairchild
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From: Asia Poppers <apoppers@BBNPLANET.COM>
Subject: H-COST: Seeking an affordable shawl
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-Poster: Asia Poppers <apoppers@BBNPLANET.COM>

Hi All, 

With the recent Pashmina craze bringing shawls back into current fashion, I
have grown hopeful that some maker out there might be offering a synthetic
version that would do well with Regency wear.  However, I have not been
very successful in my web searches for such a thing.  Can anyone suggest
where I might look?  I'll head to the mall tonight to check the deparment
stores, but most of the current versions I've seen are solid-color; I would
really love to track down a nice, big, patterned shawl for less than
US$100.  (I expect that such a thing, if it exists, would be acrylic).  Any
suggestions?

Thanks in advance, 

Asia
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:44:05 -0600 (EST)
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cc: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>,
        SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Subject: H-COST: ANST - Survey.... (fwd)
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-Poster: ches@io.com

This is a scam, do not answer it or send it back. Report it to you
postmaster and theirs

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

---------- Forwarded message ----------
xxxxxx

Good morning.
How many of you received this "survey" today?  Obviously, I did.  It
implies that it is someone's senior project.  What the heck is a Senior
Project Consulting Team, anyway?  It might be something
academic-related, but I'm really doubting it, unless he's in
marketing/business.  It sounds much more like a way for someone to grab
demographic information and associate it with my email address, for the
purpose of finding out how much medieval clothing I have the potential
of buying.  I'm not wasting my time to help someone decide if I'm going
to buy things from him...without a whole lot more information....

xxx


Subject:
        Senior Project SCA Survey
   Date:
        Thu, 11 Nov 1999 19:04:10 -0600
   From:
        David Killian <quishmar@davesworld.net>

This survey was compiled by and is intended for the benefit of a
senior project consulting team from Bradley University.  The answers
are confidential and will only be used for analysis and support of
conclusions.

Instructions for filling out the survey.
First, reply to this email.  This will allow you to edit the survey.
Please type your answers to each of the questions in the space
provided.
Send the survey back to us.

Thank you for your time


1.  Age:   ________

2.  Sex (M/F):   ________

3.  Do you have Internet Access (Y/N)?   ________
     (If you answered no, skip to question #6)


4.  Have you ever purchased anything off of the Internet (Y/N)?
________

        If you have purchased medieval items off of the Internet, what
type
of items have you purchased?





5.      If it were possible to buy quality customized medieval clothing
over the Internet and have it shipped to you,
        would you be interested (Y/N)?   ________


6.      What SCA related newsletters and magazines do you read to find
out
medieval information?






7.      Do the advertisements in these publications impact your buying
habits (Y/N)?   ________


8.      How many medieval events do you attend each year?   ________


9.      How often do you purchase medieval clothing (# of times per
year)?
  ________


10.     How much do you spend on medieval clothing each year?   ________



11.  Have you ever heard of or visited Sofi's Stitches (Y/N)?
________







============================================================================
Go to http://lists.ansteorra.org/lists.html to perform mailing list tasks.

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Dover catalog
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References: <382B80D0.DC3D162A@best.com>
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Barnes & Noble does however have access to a huge selection of highly
specialized books which can be special ordered, and I believe most big
book stores have the same. Order to arrival time is often about a week.

When I worked in the business a number of years ago, we (not B&N, but
another chain) used to require a small deposit on the book. This was more
than anything to commit the customer to buying it; sometimes publishers,
especially those who are small presses, won't accept returns. So if the
person who orders the book refuses it, the store is stuck trying to sell
it.



					Arlys


___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



cynthia j ley wrote:

> -Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
>
> Barnes & Noble does however have access to a huge selection of highly
> specialized books which can be special ordered, and I believe most big
> book stores have the same. Order to arrival time is often about a week.

Some of the chains will special order any book that is carried by one of the
huge wholesalers they deal with.  Some bookstores will special order any book
in print.  Though I suspect customers tend to do this type of ordering
on-line these days.

However, this is an entirely different situation from having the chain
officially carry your book and stock it in the store where customers can see
it without having heard of it before.  If they carry the book, they may order
a hundred copies at a time, multiple times a year.  If it's special order
status, they may order one or two copies a year.

Fran Grimble

---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
Historic and vintage dance
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 11/12/99 9:46:57 AM Central Standard Time, ches@io.com 
writes:

<< How many of you received this "survey" today?  Obviously, I did.  It
 implies that it is someone's senior project.  What the heck is a Senior
 Project Consulting Team, anyway?  It might be something
 academic-related, but I'm really doubting it, unless he's in
 marketing/business.  >>

Bradley is a very expensive local University.  I just called them.  He is 
enrolled there and he is a business major.  They are required to do a 
research project like this for class.  The lady I talked to knows this for a 
fact as she knows someone else in the program and they are doing a project 
like this also right now.  
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:31:29 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: H-COST: 1920's hats on PBS!
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

I just watched a new (dated 1998 in the credits) "Mystery" on PBS last
night starring Diana Rigg as a 1920's  sleuth.  I wish I could remember her
name in this "Mystery" series, called "The Mrs. ---- Mysteries."  Not only
was it a fun story, it had great ragtime and jazz music, superb clothing,
beading up the wazoo and HATS!  As wonderful as many of the dresses were,
the hats knocked me out!  I've taken a couple of classes on forming straw
and wool hats with steam and blocks, and these hats were really exciting.
I kept looking at them trying to figure out how they were made.

Women wore beaded hats to dinner, they wore hats every time they went
outside the house.  Hats had beads and feathers.  Wool cloches were given
really interesting forms.  One hat Ms. Rigg wore in several scenes was a
camel colored cloche with an overwrap of dark brown (or the other way
around?), beautifully twisted and pleated.  Another cloche was very fitted
but the designer had taken all the extra fabric of the hood and put it into
two pleats on either side of her face - very dramatic.

If you like this period of clothing, I highly recommend you watch the
program.  I'm just beginning to do my research in the '20's but it looked
right to me.  There are two dresses I'm going to try to make, along with
the accessories, even though I'll probably look more like a short Margaret
Dumont than Diana Rigg in the dresses.

Gotta get my hands on more silk georgette!

LynnD
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:42:25 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> I just watched a new (dated 1998 in the credits) "Mystery" on PBS last
> night starring Diana Rigg as a 1920's  sleuth.  I wish I could remember her
> name in this "Mystery" series, called "The Mrs. ---- Mysteries."

That would Mrs. Bradley.  Awesome character.

> Not only
> was it a fun story, it had great ragtime and jazz music, superb clothing,
> beading up the wazoo and HATS!  As wonderful as many of the dresses were,
> the hats knocked me out!

They were fantastic.  The feathers and beads and molded felt... wow.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 10:25 AM 11/12/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Asia Poppers <apoppers@BBNPLANET.COM>
>
>Hi All, 
>
>With the recent Pashmina craze bringing shawls back into current fashion, I
>have grown hopeful that some maker out there might be offering a synthetic
>version that would do well with Regency wear. 

I'm also hoping for this, preferably a large square that would do for `1850's.  

Margo


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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 22:25:21 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: questions in need of answers
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Any book about the history of jewelry will show dated pieces of cloisonne,
usually in colour.

>     Please advise me of reliable sources that are currently available
>(ILL, Internet, museums, etc.) in English that can answer the following
>questions:
>
>1.  When and where did Cloisonne used for jewelry, not home decorative
>items, originate?  (Yes, I know China perfected the technique and the
>technique spread throughout Asia as a decoration, but I'm specifically
>trying to date jewelry.)
>2.  When and where did Cloisonne used as jewelry enter the European sector?
>3.  Are any pictures of early European examples available?  I have a couple
>of pictures that seem to show similar enameling from around 1550 AD in
>court jewelry, but the picture quality is poor.  I can't tell whether the
>pieces are cloissone.   
>
>    Thanks in advance.
>
>Meg
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


Kayta
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 23:37:31 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: affordable shawl - 1850's
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>>With the recent Pashmina craze bringing shawls back into current fashion, I
>>have grown hopeful that some maker out there might be offering a synthetic
>>version that would do well with Regency wear. 
>
>I'm also hoping for this, preferably a large square that would do for 
>`1850's.  

Check in the Smithsonian catalog.  They often have big square shawls kind
of like this.


Kayta
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 23:37:53 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: affordable shawl - Regency
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>With the recent Pashmina craze bringing shawls back into current fashion, I
>have grown hopeful that some maker out there might be offering a synthetic
>version that would do well with Regency wear.  However, I have not been
>very successful in my web searches for such a thing.  Can anyone suggest
>where I might look?  I'll head to the mall tonight to check the deparment
>stores, but most of the current versions I've seen are solid-color; I would
>really love to track down a nice, big, patterned shawl for less than
>US$100.  (I expect that such a thing, if it exists, would be acrylic).  Any
>suggestions?

Keep looking - I have one of these and they are out there, both in wool and
in acrylic (mine is acrylic).  The bad news is I got mine at, of all
places, a booth at a Renaissance Faire, so there's no URL.  Mine only cost
like US$35 there, so they may be less elsewhere.  Mine is red on one side
and dark blue on the other, with a nice woven pattern on both ends, and is
about 1 yard/metre x 2 yards/metres (approximately).  In fact, I think I
saw similar ones at a saree store, probably cheaper but probably with a
little Lurex in the weave.  

Also keep your eyes open at thrift stores/second hand clothing places if,
as it is here, there is a large East Indian population locally.  I often
find their clothes at thrift stores near me, often mislabeled as six yards
of cloth (=cheap) or as a costume (=cheap) by the non-East-Indians who work
there. 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 12:58:56 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9911111149250.24003-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 15th c. Ecclesiastical Dress
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 19:57:27 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi,

Drea wrote:
> Does anyone have any good books or articles which cover the development of
> ecclesiastical dress (alb, surplice, chasubule, etc.) in the 15th
> century--or through the middle ages in general? I've been looking all
> over, but haven't found anything to start with.

Millia Davenport in her 'The Book of Costume', volume one (1948, my birth
year), p. 93-102 and Mrs Charles Ashdown's 'British Costume during XIX
centuries', second part: Ecclesiastical Dress (p. 332-358) have plenty of
text and illustrations through the centuries.

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 12:59:12 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1.5.4.32.19991110213431.009064f8@shadow.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1st Century scribe accessories
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 20:24:08 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

Joe wrote:
>   I am making scrolls for a play which features the biblical character of
> Zacchaeus(a Tax collector), and also for Nicodemus.  In this play, Zac is
> going to visit deliquent tax payers and we already have a kind of book of
> records he is using for reference.  He also has a quill, to check people
> off, but we are currently ignoring where the ink for the quill comes from.
>   So, what is the 1st century Roman equivalent of a Palm Pilot computer?
> The quill must be parked somewhere and he must have a container of ink.
> Anyone know of anything authentic I can make?

Ink, made of a mixture of soot, resin, winedross and cuttlefishink, was
carried in bronze, lead or even wood containers hung from the belt by thongs
or chains. Every museum with Roman artifacts  has copies of these. Quills
were made of goosefeather (without the barbs), bronze or reed. Only for
short notes or sums the wax tablets were used, for longer texts pieces of
papyrus or vellum were used. These were sewn together as scrolls which were
wound around sticks woth a wooden knob on each end; the bookscroll. Only in
the last century of the Roman era the codex, our bookform, was used.
>
>   When I try to make up something, what I come up with is a small glass
> bottle on a cord, which hangs around his neck. (sort of like the small
> bubble blowers kids have) The cork of the bottle has a large ring on top,
so
> that he can grab the small bottle with his fingers, and fit his thumb into
> that ring and remove the cork with the same and, leaving his other hand
free
> to dip the quill.

As far as I know, glass was never used for inkwells.

>   Our book consists of a number of loose pages, which have been folded in
> half and then placed over a wood dowel.  Through holes in the pages, a
> leather strap has been tied to the dowel rod so that the book can hang
from
> the character's shoulder like a purse.

As you know these people lived during the first century AD, a time when the
codex-book, as we know it, did not exist yet.

>   For a place to park the quill pen...  I imagine a leather pocket which
is
> made part of the book, and attached to the dowel inside.


>
> Joe Dunfee,  joe@dunfee.com
> Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 11:24:06 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: ANST - Survey.... (fwd)
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:24 PM 11/12/1999, Kelly <M311@aol.com >wrote: Bradley is a very
expensive local University.  I just called them.  He is enrolled there and
he is a business major.  They are required to do a research project like
this for class.  The lady I talked to knows this for a 
fact as she knows someone else in the program and they are doing a project
like this also right now.  
         Kelly--Thank you for fact-checking.  That it is a valid project
does not obviate the gentleman's neglect of courtesy in his approach, imho
only.  He did not write a cover letter explaining that he would like one to
participate in his project, and stating how he obtained one's address, but
simply sent the survey.  I sincerely hope his project advisor will correct
that.  Or, perhaps I'm just old-fashioned that way.  I prefer to be asked.
Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 13:54:58 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <historic-costuming@onelist.com>, <later-medieval-britain@iList.net>,
        <h-costume@indra.com>, <historic-footwear@onelist.com>,
        <atuk-l@onelist.com>
Subject: H-COST: Robin Hood Fest
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 20:10:56 -0000
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Dear All;
The Robin Hood Pageant  photos are now on
http://www.herimats.freeserve.co.uk/PHOTOS4A/phopageh1.htm
Although I have degraded them to load faster they will not be that quick.
Also they are not yet integrated with the index system, but this is a mirror
site , so you can access what previous pics  are still available by clicking
on the "Photopages" button.
There shouldn't be any major problems, although the scruffy bits will probably
be tidied up over the weekend.
I have include a couple of campsite pics ( as a result of requests)- the rest
are as costume orientated as is possible.
Apologies to those receiving duplicates because you are on more than one of
the lists.
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 14:14:02 1999
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From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Why don't you go check out the fabric stores?  roll-hem the edges and
add the fringed upholstery trim, if you want, and you've got a
reasonable facsimile.  It's not that difficult to do and is Lots
cheaper, especially if you don't need fringe. 
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 14:40:35 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: ANST - Survey.... (fwd)
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Fri, 12 Nov 1999 M311@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: M311@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 11/12/99 9:46:57 AM Central Standard Time, ches@io.com 
> writes:
> 
> << How many of you received this "survey" today?  Obviously, I did.  It
>  implies that it is someone's senior project.  What the heck is a Senior
>  Project Consulting Team, anyway?  It might be something
>  academic-related, but I'm really doubting it, unless he's in
>  marketing/business.  >>
> 
> Bradley is a very expensive local University.  I just called them.  He is 
> enrolled there and he is a business major.  They are required to do a 
> research project like this for class.  The lady I talked to knows this for a 
> fact as she knows someone else in the program and they are doing a project 
> like this also right now.  
Legitimate or not, it's still spam. It would have been more courteous
if he'd posted his survey on a web page and asked people to go take a
look, or even better, printed some out and gone to a couple of  events.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 16:10:12 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: ANST - Survey.... (fwd)
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>> Bradley is a very expensive local University.  I just called them.  He is
>> enrolled there and he is a business major.  They are required to do a
>> research project like this for class.  The lady I talked to knows this
for a
>> fact as she knows someone else in the program and they are doing a
project
>> like this also right now.
>Legitimate or not, it's still spam. It would have been more courteous
>if he'd posted his survey on a web page and asked people to go take a
>look, or even better, printed some out and gone to a couple of  events.


I think the amusing thing is that a number of the questions had to do with
buying medieval clothing.  I think the vast majority of readers of H-Costume
probably make their own or aspire to do so (whatever the period), although I
know there are a few here who do just research.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 16:22:37 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: ANST - Survey.... (fwd)
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

It turns out that the Rolls Ethereal (an on-line listing of SCA members'
e-mail addresses) was also a target for this mailing.  Did anyone who's not
on the Rolls get it?

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 16:27:56 1999
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 17:44:07 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: The making of top hats
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

There are forms to cover, but can you afford $65-$80?  That is what a felt 
top hat (as opposed to a silk one) will cost at a place like Hats in the 
Belfry.  Amazon Drygoods has them in this price range, too.  You can also get 
cheaper molded ones at formal wear stores.  They don't look as good as the 
more expensive ones, but I think they would have to look as good as one you 
tried to cover yourself.  My husband started with one of these, then we 
traded up to a felt one that he wears for early 19th c. interpretation, and 
then we bought a real gibus, or collapsible opera hat, for just under $200 
several years ago.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 16:31:14 1999
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 17:46:58 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Seeking an affordable shawl
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I got one at the Textile Museum in Washington, DC, several years ago.  It is 
made in Pakistan, is I think a cotton and rayon blend, is very large, and is 
a love paisley design.  It was about $80, which I thought was a lot at the 
time, but I've definitely gotten my money's worth out of it.  You might see 
if they still have them.  They do mail order.  If you are interested, I can 
look up a phone number for you.
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: H-COST: affordable shawl - 1850's
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:37 PM 11/11/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
>
>>>With the recent Pashmina craze bringing shawls back into current fashion, I
>>>have grown hopeful that some maker out there might be offering a synthetic
>>>version that would do well with Regency wear. 
>>
>>I'm also hoping for this, preferably a large square that would do for 
>>`1850's.  
>
>Check in the Smithsonian catalog.  They often have big square shawls kind
>of like this.
>
Yes, I just saw the Smithsonian catalof at my parent's house.  The current
issue has a 54" square and an oblong, both under $100, as I recall. 

Margo


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-Poster: deborah rand <martyr@gti.net>

Do you mean Agatha Christie's "Miss Marple?"

~Deb Rand

 I just watched a new (dated 1998 in the credits) "Mystery" on PBS last night
starring Diana Rigg as a 1920's  sleuth.  I wish I could remember her name in
this "Mystery" series, called "The Mrs. ---- Mysteries."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 18:36:32 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1920's hats on PBS!
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 01:32:06 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  Saw it too.  She was "Mrs. Bradley", a 1920's divorcee...
Didn't notice who wrote the books, if any.

Liadain

> -Poster: deborah rand <martyr@gti.net>
>
> Do you mean Agatha Christie's "Miss Marple?"
>
> ~Deb Rand
>
>  I just watched a new (dated 1998 in the credits) "Mystery" on PBS last
night
> starring Diana Rigg as a 1920's  sleuth.  I wish I could remember her name
in
> this "Mystery" series, called "The Mrs. ---- Mysteries."
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 18:36:45 1999
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 16:54:51 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

I was surprised to see no comments re: the three Scarlet Pimpernel
shows on A&E.  I thoroughly enjoyed them and loved the costuming.  I
don't know anything about this period, but did love What's Her Name's
chopines.  And Percy's coat.  Loved it.

What do you all have to say about it?  Anything?

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 04:54 PM 11/12/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>I was surprised to see no comments re: the three Scarlet Pimpernel
>shows on A&E.  I thoroughly enjoyed them and loved the costuming.  I
>don't know anything about this period, but did love What's Her Name's
>chopines.  And Percy's coat.  Loved it.
>
>What do you all have to say about it?  Anything?
>
>
I didn't watch much of it, but I thought the tailoring on the men's clothes
was terrible.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 19:55:43 1999
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

It's one of my faorite books, but I'm with Margo on this one.  I had a really 
hard time watching it, because the fit of the clothes on both males and 
females was so ghastly.  I did like the way the range of clothes across 
classes of people was revealed.  And I did love seeing Percy in his  French 
Incroyable garb. 

Hope 
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Worn for modesty, older women, and to keep off the chill.  Y
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 20:22:04 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: EXPENSIVE shawl - 1850's
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 18:37:37 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Speaking of lovely shawls, I just saw at the Cedar Creek (ACW) event in 
Virginia an absolutely gorgeous wool paisley shawl in red and rust with deep 
violet and gold.... Unfortunately, the price tag was $528.00.

I was tempted, but I didn't.

Susannah





> >
> >>>With the recent Pashmina craze bringing shawls back into current 
>fashion, I
> >>>have grown hopeful that some maker out there might be offering a 
>synthetic
> >>>version that would do well with Regency wear.
> >>
> >>I'm also hoping for this, preferably a large square that would do for
> >>`1850's.
> >

______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 20:23:54 1999
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 21:40:19 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: 1810 Betsy
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

They are like a partlet or a dickey, an optional fill-in for a low-necked 
gown.  Patterns and drawings of seven different styles, two of which are the 
frilly necked ones appropriate to 1810, are shown in Janet Arnold's Patterns 
of Fashion 1 1660-1860.  Those go under the neck of the gown and tie under 
the bust.  In Nancy Bradfield's Costume in Detail, this type is shown, as 
well as one with ruffles over the shoulders, which appears to go on *over* 
the gown. Women of all ages wore them, but the older women might have worn 
the more.  They seem to be an optional accessory for younger women, 
especially useful for cooler weather. 

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 20:31:09 1999
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

I cant remeber which URL allows you to send email.  I have seen it.  But you 
can right click and copy just about any image on the Web and paste it into 
your e-mail or attach it.  Its quicker for the receiver, who doesn't have go 
to the Web to access the post card.

Hope
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 22:01:24 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re:   h-costume-Buttons
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Many would have been hand made, not purchased.  Cloth buttons overcast with 
silk floss in patterns like "turks head" for mens frock coats.  Thread 
buttons for shirts, which involve winding a linen thread around a 
pencil-shaped form to make a ring, and then using sort of a buttonhole stitch 
around until it is firm enough to act as a button.
Buttons for mens jackets, uniforms, and the like would have been cast of 
pewter or brass in small molds in which a whole set of buttons would be cast 
at once. 

Hope
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Advice Needed
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 19:05:30 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Penny,
Another good mag is Creative Needle.  They have lovely children's and 
women's outfits, and even some really nice things (like pleated slacks & 
suit jackets) for boys.  Full-size patterns are almost always included in 
the center fold-out section, a plus I really like.
And I have about 10 yards of 45" wide cream-colored fine linen that I would 
be willing to part with for a negotiable price, for a project like yours of 
this significance!
Let me know,

Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris


>From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Advice Needed
>Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 18:31:07 -0800
>
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>Penny, are you familiar with the magazine Sew Beautiful?  It's about
>heirloom sewing, and has many many ads for fabrics and notions, including
>pastel linens.  Also lots of information and design ideas for communion 
>dresses.
>
>Margo
>(who is jealous because she only has boys)
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 21:13:31 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Damage Control (Re: Survey "Scam")
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 22:27:11 -0500
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Hello Everyone,

This message was originally posted on the SCA-East listserve
I am posting it to SCA-Garb and H-Cost

Please forward it to any other lists that you know were hit by the survey.

It would be a real shame if this woman's business suffered due to the 
cluelessness of the students.

(Note: Excess forwarding headers, garbage code, and a phone number 
deleted for clarity and privacy concerns)

---------------- Begin Forwarded Message ----------------
Date:        11/12/99 9:26 PM
Received:    11/12/99 9:31 PM
From:        Vanessa Layne, dagoura@mit.edu
Reply-To:    SCA-East, sca-east@indra.com
To:          SCA-East, sca-east@indra.com
             carolingia@bloom-beacon.mit.edu

-Poster: Vanessa Layne <dagoura@MIT.EDU>


SENT TO: carolingia
         sca-east

I have spoken with Sofi on the phone, and got the real scoop.  She
thought she was doing a good samaritan thing by being the guinea pig
for some college students in a marketing class.  She had no idea that
they would go and do something like this.

She wrote up the attached message for me to send on, explaning it in
her words.

(In one of those weird syncronicity things, I'm currently working in
the marketing division of a consulting firm which tells big companies
how to market on-line; while I'm not actually a marketroid, I've
HTML'd so many of their academic reports on e-marketing, that I now
speak the language.  For any subsequent classes, I am serious
considering writing a letter to the professor for him to read to the
class ("Today's lecture is on 'Brand Damage', boys and girls.")  If
there is someone else out there who speaks marketese more fluently
than I, who'd like to do it or just contribute, let me know.)

-- Tibicen
   tibicen@carolingia.org

------- Forwarded Message

To: tibicen@carolingia.org
From: Sofi <sofi@flink.com>
Subject: Thanks for your help on the Students' goof


I had no clue these guys were doing this. They are very engergized
students working on a semester project.

It really was an innocent survey. The local university (Bradley
University) near where I live offers a marketing class for seniors and
they have to do a marketing project on a real life company to graduate.

The university called me and asked if I would help them out and be the
real life company. (Their orignal company had backed out only four hours
before their project was to begin. The canceling company was a
union-labor management organization, so when they got medieval clothes
and heard about the SCA, these guys were super enthusiastic.)

I had no idea these guys would spam anyone. I don't think they knew what
they were doing. I just called them and asked them what did they think
they were doing. They said they didn't think they were spamming. They are
very sorry.

They have agreed to not do anything else unless they ask me first. You
should not be bothered again. (Their class is over this semester.)

Again, I did not know that they were going to do this. They ask for your
forgiveness.

On the good side, they all think the SCA is really cool and maybe will
join up. Maybe, we'll get a half-more dozen eager members who are wild
about the middle ages.

Kindly,
Sofi
www.medievalclothes.com/
------- End of Forwarded Message
----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 23:10:26 1999
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 21:28:58 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: questions in need of answers
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

I've seen Byzantine cloisonne and Carolingian cloisonne (probably 
learned from Byzantine craftspeople). That puts the technique in 
Europe around 800 CE or earlier.

I'm not certain of the dates on the pieces i've seen. Some of what 
i've seen is not jewelry for personal wear, however, they are 
"jewels" on metal book covers, what a friend of mine calls book 
shrines.

I don't know where they learned it. They could have gotten it from 
points east, although it's also possible they thought it up on their 
own...

I recently looked at two wonderful art books, one on Carolingian art 
and the other on Byzantine art, so i suggest searching through art 
books for examples and data.

Lilinah
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 23:32:16 1999
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-Poster: Broom <Broom@prodigy.net>

Let's add another interesting twist to this one... the only business
mentioned in this survey was "Sofi's Stitches", a business run by a
local SCA member from the home town of Bradley U (Peoria IL).  She
recently mentioned that she's *just* turned her business into a
full-time venture, opened a website, and is taking internet orders.

Don't know whether or not she had anything to do with this spam, of
course.
-- 
  |   Broom                  Broom@prodigy.net
  |   937-222-2330 233 Perrine St Dayton (1 of my fayre citees) OH 45410
 \|/  309-685-1532 1501 E Gardner Ln #1624 Peoria Hts (thother) IL 61614
 /|\  Ministerium honor est, which means:  
//|\\ "My boy, it's kisstomary to cuss the bride."
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 00:14:04 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: QEWU
In-Reply-To: <3829EDD2.790F3A3D@pcs.k12.mi.us>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 10:12  10/11/99 +0000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
>
>The catalog sounds good. Info on that please?  : )
>
>Raella

Greetings Raella,

You can reach Bette at:

Bette S. Feinstein of Hard-to-Find Needlework Books
96 Roundwood Road, Newton, MA  02464-1217
617-969-0942 tel/fax
hardtofind@needleworkbooks.com
Searchable database at:  
http://www.needleworkbooks.com  

I've ordered from her in the past and been very pleased.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 12 23:35:06 1999
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 21:58:54 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 70's shirts
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Connie Fairchild wrote:
> > - -Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net> wrote:
> > My recollection is that the wide-collared flowery shirts are more mid
> > to late 60's,
>
>Not in my area in the mid 60's (the Midwest, but we are usually a little
>behind -- but not 10 yrs!).

I grew up in Chicago. In the mid-60's the English Mod fashions were 
around. Many men's shirts had white collars and bodies of tiny bright 
flowers on a dark ground. I bought a number of men's shirts, often 
styled somewhat like what we now often call a "poet's shirt", and 
men's wide neckties (one was a wide white moire tie) which i wore. I 
still own some of my mid-to-late '60's women's shirts with the big 
collars.

>The mid-60's was small collars sometimes button
>down, I don't remember any colors in shirts but white and then sometimes
>with fine pinstripes.  There were narrow lapels on suits, pant legs were
>"pegged" to be narrow, and ties were narrow as well.

This is what straight people, normals, wore. My father would only 
wear white and he thought our neighbor was strange because he 
sometimes wore blue shirts.

Those into the fashion edge checked out high fashion magazines, such 
as Bazaar (which had the most wonderful, absolutely impossible, 
designer women's clothes). I wasn't rich so i didn't get bleeding 
edge designer clothes, but there was a store called "Paraphernalia", 
which had outlets in a number of US cities (and in London, i think), 
where i got mini-skirts, sleeveless turtleneck bodysuits with the 
deeply cut armholes, mini-dresses with simple almost loose bodies and 
all manner of unusual sleeve treatments, odd accessories such as a 
green lame cloth "aviators helmet" and other odd things, like false 
eyelashes with rhinestones on the eyelid part.

>My nephew asked me to make him a "Disco Shirt" to wear to his high school
>dance in about 1977 when disco was all the rage. The fabric he chose was
>bright blue satin  with BIG flowers (I may be off a year or two, but am
>fairly close).

70's disco stuff was generally polyester, back when it was new and 
exciting, and often polyester knit, which was quite fashionable. The 
fabric came in an amazing variety of bright prints. I still have 
unsewn fabric from then, but i tended to get the pseudo-Art Deco 
patterns.

In the early 70's i had some polyester knit mini-dresses, but by the 
late '60's i was already into the midi look, which when properly 
shaped could look very nice - i tended to buy dresses and suits from 
London or from Betsey Johnson when she wasn't as expensive as she is 
now.

I made my boyfriend some shirts of those photoprint fabrics when they 
were new and unusual (i see them making a bit of a comeback). I was 
especially fond of two photoprinted polyester fabric shirts i made, 
one with Monet's Waterlilies and the other with Maxfield Parrish 
designs on a sky blue ground. But the 70's stuff i made didn't have 
those really big collars. 'Course, it's been a few decades :-) and i 
could be mis-remembering.

Lilinah

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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 22:16:01 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1920's hats on PBS!
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Well, if you like the period, and i REALLY do, and you get PBS, give 
"The Mrs. Bradley Mysteries" on "Mystery!" a look. I hope there's 
another next Thursday. The story felt like it was modern, written to 
seem like it was old, perhaps a bit too self-conscious. But the 
costumes were good. I liked the Chinoise pyjama set Dame Diana Rigg 
wore near the end - wasn't it black, coral, and muted turquoise?

And the hats, the hats! Oh! Oh! I was near fainting. Some may not 
have been all that authentic, but, my! they were wonderful! I own a 
bizarrely twist felt hat made by a local craftswoman, similar to, 
although not as wonderful as, a couple Dame Diana Rigg wore.

I also own a dark blue velvet and lace dress and matching cloche from 
the 20's, a red velvet and gold lace cloche, and one of those 
squashed looking hats that some of the younger women were wearing. I 
love hats and the first half of this century was a wonderful time for 
them. I'm not as fond of those little feathered things from the 
'50's. Besides, they are wrong for my hair :-)

My mother, born in 1921, hates hats and always accuses me of wearing 
them to annoy her, but i almost never go out without a hat. I had a 
hat in the mid-60's that had a not too high crown and a *square* brim 
turned up at the corners. I miss that hat.

Lilinah
hat lover
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 00:06:51 1999
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 <3.0.1.32.19991113001404.0094ea70@mail.interlog.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 22:28:56 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: QEWU
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>
>You can reach Bette at:
>
>Bette S. Feinstein of Hard-to-Find Needlework Books
>96 Roundwood Road, Newton, MA  02464-1217
>617-969-0942 tel/fax
>hardtofind@needleworkbooks.com
>Searchable database at:
>http://www.needleworkbooks.com
>
>I've ordered from her in the past and been very pleased.

Wow! This is a gem of a site! Thank you for sharing the info.

Lilinah
drooling into her keyboard

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 02:35:57 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 00:47:20 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lee Carter <mouse@well.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1920's hats on PBS!
In-Reply-To: <382D56E6.ECE4D4D@gti.net>
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-Poster: Lee Carter <mouse@well.com>

At 07:17 AM 11/13/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: deborah rand <martyr@gti.net>
>
>Do you mean Agatha Christie's "Miss Marple?"
>
>~Deb Rand
>
> I just watched a new (dated 1998 in the credits) "Mystery" on PBS last night
>starring Diana Rigg as a 1920's  sleuth.  I wish I could remember her name in
>this "Mystery" series, called "The Mrs. ---- Mysteries."
>
Mrs. Bradley,  Her first name is Adela... very notorious.... I like her
quote "better to get married young .... just like having the chicken
poxs... something to that effect...

Lee

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 05:16:23 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 12:24:54 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Hello all
Could someone please help me with this, i have no idea what so eaver.
Someone told me that an english inch is different from an amerikan.
How much is an american inch in centimeters?
We only use centimeters here in Denmark and i need the information to
check out some sizes of some amerikan palliettes (seaquins)

Would be most greatfull for this help!!

Bjarne.


--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 07:46:00 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 08:00:14 -0600
From: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Maleah <maleah@swbell.net>

Bjarne,
    One American inch is equal to 2.5cm (at least that's what's on my tape
measure). I hope this helps.

Maleah
maleah@swbell.net
Oklahoma USA
----- Original Message -----
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 1999 5:24 AM
Subject: H-COST: inches


>
> -Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>
> Hello all
> Could someone please help me with this, i have no idea what so eaver.
> Someone told me that an english inch is different from an amerikan.
> How much is an american inch in centimeters?
> We only use centimeters here in Denmark and i need the information to
> check out some sizes of some amerikan palliettes (seaquins)
>
> Would be most greatfull for this help!!
>
> Bjarne.
>
>
> --
>
>
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
>
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
>
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 09:53:28 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 11:05:21 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Egyptians
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

By the way, In the US, the film is called The Advocate, in case anyone 
wonders what Henk is talking about.

No information on "Egyptians" for you, though.

Kathleen Norvell
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 12:24 PM 11/13/1999 +0100, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>
>Hello all
>Could someone please help me with this, i have no idea what so eaver.
>Someone told me that an english inch is different from an amerikan.


No, you have been misinformed.  The English inch and the American inch are
the same.

Your informant may have been confused by the fact that the English people
have had the good sense to go over to the metric system, leaving the US
alone in our stubborness in maintaining this ridiculous system.  

Have any of the list members who were raised with the Imperial system
managed to train themselves to think in metric when they sew?  I keep
thinking I should, but haven't managed to do it yet.  One thing I did find
handy, when I was in the bridal gown fitting racket, was to take the bride's
measurements in metri, so she didn't argue with numbers she wasn't
emotionally fixated on.  

Margo


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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 11:04:19 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: questions in need of answers
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
>1.  When and where did Cloisonne used for jewelry, not home decorative
>items, originate?
>2.  When and where did Cloisonne used as jewelry enter the European sector?
>3.  Are any pictures of early European examples available?

You might check out information on the Sutton Hoo ship burial (burial hoard
of an East Anglian king found in Suffolk, England), which included a
fabulous cloisonne purse cover c. 654.  I just have it in a general art
history book, but look under early "Germanic" art in the library.  Also
check out Frankish, as there's an example of a lovely Frankish 6th/7th c.
cloisonne fibula in my book.

Good luck
Melanie


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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: questions in need of answers
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 11:11:51 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

OK, completely out of left field here.  I was watching the Antiques
Roadshow and these sisters brought in a 5'-0" tall Chinese Cloisonné vase. 
Do you ever wonder how those people get that kind of stuff to the site? 
This thing must have weighed a ton!!  Anyway, he dated it to the 1880's and
gave them a really good price.  But, as he was describing the vase, he
mentioned that Cloisonné technique was first used in Greece before Christ.

Not saying it's true, just passing along some of the information that my
brain hangs onto.

Kathlene

----------
> From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: questions in need of answers
> Date: Saturday, November 13, 1999 9:04 AM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> 
> >-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
> >1.  When and where did Cloisonne used for jewelry, not home decorative
> >items, originate?
> >2.  When and where did Cloisonne used as jewelry enter the European
sector?
> >3.  Are any pictures of early European examples available?
> 
> You might check out information on the Sutton Hoo ship burial (burial
hoard
> of an East Anglian king found in Suffolk, England), which included a
> fabulous cloisonne purse cover c. 654.  I just have it in a general art
> history book, but look under early "Germanic" art in the library.  Also
> check out Frankish, as there's an example of a lovely Frankish 6th/7th c.
> cloisonne fibula in my book.
> 
> Good luck
> Melanie
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 15:35:55 1999
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From: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: questions in need of answers
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 15:49:34 -0600
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-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>

     Thanks to all who have mentioned sources to check. While I have
numerous art books that show cloisonne, very few of them give more than a
statement guessing (albeit educated guesses) as to dates.  I had hoped to
find a primary statement, even though it would be a translation.  I figured
that if anyone knew, the folks on this list would.
     Kathlene, what a coincident!  A vague reference made by a professor
(one that I have long since learned not to challenge) at a recent
department activity is what led to my question.  His statement suggested a
Greek/B.C. possibility too.  All the truly ancient pieces I have found have
been Asian, decidedly Chinese.  Of course, after the professor's statement,
I thought perhaps my own ignorance or lack of enough source material had
let me jump to a single-source theory.  If you have any other information,
albeit ever so slight, concerning the Greek/B.C. connection, I would
greatly appreciate receiving it.
     Thanks, All.
Meg

----------
> From: K & J Hopkins <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: questions in need of answers
> Date: Saturday, November 13, 1999 12:11 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> 
> OK, completely out of left field here.  I was watching the Antiques
> Roadshow and these sisters brought in a 5'-0" tall Chinese Cloisonné
vase. 
> Do you ever wonder how those people get that kind of stuff to the site? 
> This thing must have weighed a ton!!  Anyway, he dated it to the 1880's
and
> gave them a really good price.  But, as he was describing the vase, he
> mentioned that Cloisonné technique was first used in Greece before
Christ.
> 
> Not saying it's true, just passing along some of the information that my
> brain hangs onto.
> 
> Kathlene
> 
> ----------
> > From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: Re: H-COST: questions in need of answers
> > Date: Saturday, November 13, 1999 9:04 AM
> > 
> > 
> > -Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
> > 
> > >-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
> > >1.  When and where did Cloisonne used for jewelry, not home decorative
> > >items, originate?
> > >2.  When and where did Cloisonne used as jewelry enter the European
> sector?
> > >3.  Are any pictures of early European examples available?
> > 
> > You might check out information on the Sutton Hoo ship burial (burial
> hoard
> > of an East Anglian king found in Suffolk, England), which included a
> > fabulous cloisonne purse cover c. 654.  I just have it in a general art
> > history book, but look under early "Germanic" art in the library.  Also
> > check out Frankish, as there's an example of a lovely Frankish 6th/7th
c.
> > cloisonne fibula in my book.
> > 
> > Good luck
> > Melanie
> > 
> > 
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 16:24:01 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 17:40:00 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: questions in need of answers
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

I remember cloisonne Celtic work from my art history days.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 16:24:07 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 17:38:10 EST
Subject: H-COST: 1860's Mourning Attire
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

I enjoyed seeing the picture in the paper today of two women in 1860's 
mourning attire at The Citidel, participating in a ceremony to rebury a 
number of Civil War dead who were unearthed during an archeological dig prior 
to a new stadium being built.  (I (I hope I reported that accurately.)  They 
wore black dresses and bonnets with black veils over all.  Really made the 
heart skip a beat.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 17:02:52 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
In-Reply-To: <199911131628.IAA23359@apollo.directcon.net>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Sat, 13 Nov 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> 
> No, you have been misinformed.  The English inch and the American inch are
> the same.
> 
> Your informant may have been confused by the fact that the English people
> have had the good sense to go over to the metric system, leaving the US
> alone in our stubborness in maintaining this ridiculous system.  
In the past weren't there differences between French and English
imperial measurements? Maybe that's where the confusion has come
from. The English still do road signs in miles (or at least,
they did ten years ago), but everything else is metric.
> 
> Have any of the list members who were raised with the Imperial system
> managed to train themselves to think in metric when they sew?  I keep
> thinking I should, but haven't managed to do it yet.  One thing I did find
> handy, when I was in the bridal gown fitting racket, was to take the bride's
> measurements in metri, so she didn't argue with numbers she wasn't
> emotionally fixated on.  
> 
Depends what you mean by 'thinks in'. I was raised in metric, but I can
still do inches if need be (ie if something says turn up a 1 1/2" hem I
could do that without reference to a tape measure, or thinking 1"=2.5cm).
I can also cook in imperial because my mother, who taught me, doesn't
get metric.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 17:07:37 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Scarlet Pimpernel
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Fri, 12 Nov 1999, Margo Anderson wrote:

> >
> >
> I didn't watch much of it, but I thought the tailoring on the men's clothes
> was terrible.  
> 
Really? I thought the women's clothes were terrible. None of Percy's 
wife's dresses fitted properly. But I  thought the men's clothes
were okay. Then again, I don't know so much about men's clothes.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 18:21:23 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:31:36 -0500
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-Poster: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>

Can anyone tell me the period name for a material I often see as a
lining in women's and children's dresses, from the 19thC?  It looks like
a coarse linen - or sometimes cotton - with a heavy glaze on it, often
cracked with age, crackles almost like paper and the color varies from
pale beige to a golden brown.  I've seen references to book (or buk)
muslin, glazed calico, brown holland, victoria lawn, etc.  But what's
what?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 19:02:55 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 20:15:30 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Scarlet Pimpernel
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

In a message dated 11/13/1999 3:25:22 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au writes:

<< Really? I thought the women's clothes were terrible. None of Percy's 
 wife's dresses fitted properly. But I thought the men's clothes
 were okay. Then again, I don't know so much about men's clothes. >>
I agree about the women's clothes, most items did not fit correctly, but I 
happen to know that they were pulled from Angels and Bermans stock in London, 
not custom fit. I loved the men's tailoring and they were custom done by the 
master tailor, R.I. Davis from Angels and Bermans. It would be interesting to 
know what people did not like about it. Finally, there was the correct cut 
and hang for the period as opposed to the 1970's one with Jane Seymour. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 19:48:21 1999
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From: "Steve & Michelle Plumb" <splumb@ic.net>
To: "historic costume group" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 21:01:44 -0400
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Subject: H-COST: Hey, what's happened to La Mode Bagatelle's web page?
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-Poster: "Steve & Michelle Plumb" <splumb@ic.net>

Yikes!

I have a question to ask the good folks at La Mode Bagatelle.  But when
I tried to access their web page, 

http://www.lamodebagatelle.com

it was nowhere to be found!  What's happened?  I know that's the
correct URL, since I've visited the site before and bookmarked the
page.  I even double-checked through search utilities, and they all
point to the same page.  Then I tried to run a tracer and ping, and had
no better luck.  Waaaaaaaahhh!

Anyone know what's going on?

TIA,
Michelle
===========================================================
                      Steve & Michelle Plumb   --    splumb@ic.net
                                     Plymouth, Michigan  USA

"Give me ten men like Clouseau, and I could destroy the world."

					-- Herbert Lom, in
					"A Shot In the Dark"
===========================================================

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 20:11:25 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 21:25:29 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: Marquise
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

For those of you who saw the French movie "Marquise" (about a 17th century
actress) a year or so ago.  Great news!  It's now out on video - I bought a
copy today.  It's a wonderful film.  And to keep it on topic, anyone know
how acurate the costumes are?  I love them unfortunately, they aren't my
specialty.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 20:17:06 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 12:24 PM 11/13/99 +0100, leif drews wrote:
>
>-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>
>Hello all
>Could someone please help me with this, i have no idea what so eaver.
>Someone told me that an english inch is different from an amerikan.
>How much is an american inch in centimeters?
>We only use centimeters here in Denmark and i need the information to
>check out some sizes of some amerikan palliettes (seaquins)
>
>Would be most greatfull for this help!!
>
>Bjarne.

An American inch is 2.54 cm. 

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 21:06:50 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 22:20:52 -0800
From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
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To: h-costume@indra.com, evedave1@netcom.ca
Subject: Re: H-COST: Buff Coats
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>

David Stamper & Eve Harris wrote:

> I am interested in any info people might have on pre -17th century
> buff coats (say 1550-1600) .  Are there examples of long leather coats
> used as armour during the Elizabethan period, or were they mostly
> found around the time of the English Civil War.  I know there were a
> lot of leather garments in the 16th century, but when did the coat
> come in? I've seen some long coats worn under breast plates in the
> Lant's Rolls of the funeral of Sir Phillip Sydney, could these be a
> form of buff coat?  Any info you have would be greatly appreciated.  I
> was mostly hoping to confirm that such a thing existed.

I would reccomend Military Illustrated (an English magizine) #54 has an
article by Mark Beabey.  I will say that I have not seen it (and would
love a photcopy). But I have read his artcle on 17th century shoes. It
gives extensive detail on the types and construction of shoes.

David S MAllinak
MacLean's Company, MacDermott Regiment of Irish Foote
Fighing in Scotland for the Royalist Cause and the Irish Confederation
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 21:34:47 1999
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-Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>

Ok, to sidestep the inches for a minute, does anyone know how long an
'el' is? This is often mentioned in the Spanish tailors book, but I
couldn't find the modern equivelent.
Raella

Joan M Jurancich wrote:

> -Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
>
> At 12:24 PM 11/13/99 +0100, leif drews wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> >
> >Hello all
> >Could someone please help me with this, i have no idea what so eaver.
> >Someone told me that an english inch is different from an amerikan.
> >How much is an american inch in centimeters?
> >We only use centimeters here in Denmark and i need the information to
> >check out some sizes of some amerikan palliettes (seaquins)
> >
> >Would be most greatfull for this help!!
> >
> >Bjarne.
>
> An American inch is 2.54 cm.
>
> Joan Jurancich
> Sacramento, CA
> joanj@quiknet.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 21:45:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:52:29 -0800
From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



Kris wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
> 
> I have jsut discovered, after looking through a site with wonderful
> 'fantasy' style victorian clothing, that I want one. Unfortunately, I
> cannot afford to go out and spend $200 on purchasing one. 

<snip>

The best way to get one is to inherit it.  Ask around your family.  I am
lucky in that one from an ancester has been preserved, and with a lack
of interest by anyone else, it came to me.

It's delicate, but it came with the original leather hat case.

When did the fashion of beaver fur hats end?  I have the impression that
the hat is about 120 years old.  But I am not sure.

I also have the cheapest Opera hat ever made.  The brim is flocked
plastic, with the  collapsing part of cloth.  Sold by the Johnson Smith
Company (who advertises in the back of comic books) for the amature
magician.  No longer available, I am afraid.  But, as long as what shows
is right, the structure of a re-production could be of materials not
available when the object was originally stylish.

Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 22:10:41 1999
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 20:17:02 -0800
From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



leif drews wrote:
> 
> -Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> 
> Hello all
> Could someone please help me with this, i have no idea what so eaver.
> Someone told me that an english inch is different from an amerikan.
> How much is an american inch in centimeters?

<snip>

This is a place to go for free conversions of metric to English units of
measure. Or the other way.


http://www.psinvention.com/zoetic/convert.htm

	Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 22:32:35 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


I know there's some discussion in the Alcega Tailor's book about the
different Ell measurements, near the back I believe.

Drea

On Sat, 13 Nov 1999, Jean Zerby wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
> 
> Ok, to sidestep the inches for a minute, does anyone know how long an
> 'el' is? This is often mentioned in the Spanish tailors book, but I
> couldn't find the modern equivelent.
> Raella
> 
> Joan M Jurancich wrote:
> 
> > -Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
> >
> > At 12:24 PM 11/13/99 +0100, leif drews wrote:
> > >
> > >-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> > >
> > >Hello all
> > >Could someone please help me with this, i have no idea what so eaver.
> > >Someone told me that an english inch is different from an amerikan.
> > >How much is an american inch in centimeters?
> > >We only use centimeters here in Denmark and i need the information to
> > >check out some sizes of some amerikan palliettes (seaquins)
> > >
> > >Would be most greatfull for this help!!
> > >
> > >Bjarne.
> >
> > An American inch is 2.54 cm.
> >
> > Joan Jurancich
> > Sacramento, CA
> > joanj@quiknet.com
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Scarlet Pimpernel
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com

In a message dated 11/13/99 6:25:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au writes:

<< Really? I thought the women's clothes were terrible. None of Percy's 
 wife's dresses fitted properly. But I  thought the men's clothes
 were okay. >>

I read that the actress playing his wife had a baby around the time of 
filming, this could account for the strange fit for her clothes.


Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 13 22:56:22 1999
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: inches
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 21:04:14 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

In the first edition of Alcega  the conversion tables are on pages 18 and 19
at the beginning of the translated section.  When we made the "learned mans
gown" on page 40 (f.49) we found we could translate the el as 36" and it
worked fine.

Regina Romsey
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>
> I know there's some discussion in the Alcega Tailor's book about the
> different Ell measurements, near the back I believe.
>
> Drea
>
> On Sat, 13 Nov 1999, Jean Zerby wrote:
>
> >
> > -Poster: Jean Zerby <jzerby@scnc.pcs.k12.mi.us>
> >
> > Ok, to sidestep the inches for a minute, does anyone know how long an
> > 'el' is? This is often mentioned in the Spanish tailors book, but I
> > couldn't find the modern equivelent.
> > Raella
> >
> > Joan M Jurancich wrote:
> >
> > > -Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
> > >
> > > At 12:24 PM 11/13/99 +0100, leif drews wrote:
> > > >
> > > >-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> > > >
> > > >Hello all
> > > >Could someone please help me with this, i have no idea what so eaver.
> > > >Someone told me that an english inch is different from an amerikan.
> > > >How much is an american inch in centimeters?
> > > >We only use centimeters here in Denmark and i need the information to
> > > >check out some sizes of some amerikan palliettes (seaquins)
> > > >
> > > >Would be most greatfull for this help!!
> > > >
> > > >Bjarne.
> > >
> > > An American inch is 2.54 cm.
> > >
> > > Joan Jurancich
> > > Sacramento, CA
> > > joanj@quiknet.com
> > >
> > >  _________________________________________________________________
> > >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 00:37:35 1999
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From: Katrina Worley <kworley@ns.net>
Subject: H-COST: what's an "ell"?
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-Poster: Katrina Worley <kworley@ns.net>

The word "ell" refers to arm (that's why the bow or bend in your arm is
called an "el-bow").  An ell, then, is an arms length.  How you measure the
arms length is different depending on your culture.   You can measure from
fingertips to the shoulder of the same arm (Scotland), from fingertips to
breastbone or nose (U.S.), or from fingertips across the chest to the
opposite shoulder, or from fingertips to fingertips (this last is usually
called a "fathom", and is a basic measurement of long lengths of line on
shipboard).  The ell is usually from about 27 inches to maybe 45 or so.  If
you measuure from fingertips to breastbone you should get something
aproximating a yard (mine is about 34 inches- close enough for estimating).

Katrina

Katrina in Loomis, CA
<mailto:kworley@ns.net>
***************
History: what special people were doing in special places at special times;
Anthropology: what everyone else was doing the rest of the time.

						**K. Worley, 1997**


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 00:51:07 1999
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Margo Anderson wrote:

> Have any of the list members who were raised with the Imperial system
> managed to train themselves to think in metric when they sew?  I keep

I have a researcher friend who works with metric all day in the lab, but can't
make her brain use metric when cooking.  She thought it odd.

--Charlene

--
When the origin of a thing is remote and mysterious it has been the custom to
attribute it to the Devil or to Asia.  -- Sir William Gurney Benham,
_Playing_Cards_




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 02:04:19 1999
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Silk Flowers for Hair Ornaments at the Italian Courts 1550
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 00:08:46 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

I've been going through the topics listings from the Medici Archives project
in the Costume and Dress section.  These are letters and notes sent to and
from Eleonora di Toledo and Duke Cosimo I.  Unfortunately the really
interesting pieces are in Italian, but there is also a short synopsis of
some 150 documents in English. Two talk about silk flowers sent to be used
as hair ornaments.

Eleonora de' Medici
 Duchessa di Mantova (1587)
 Location: Mantova

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From: " The days" <days@alltel.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Archives?
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-Poster: " The days" <days@alltel.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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When I joined the list on my instructions there an address? for an =
archives of sort for the list. Does anyone have the e-mail address to =
acces them? Thank you!

                                                    Scarlett

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Subject: Re: H-COST: The making of top hats
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-Poster: MLaventure@aol.com


It is very possible to make a top hat yourself without having a lot of tools. 
 I would recommend DL Designs patterns...Alteryears should carry them.  
Deborah gives extensive instructions in her patterns. This would walk you 
through making a buckram base.  

I would also recommend that you pick up the book From the Neck Up by D. 
Dreher.  This book covers felt, buckram, straw, etc., and is considered the 
"Bible" for hatmaking.

Some top hats will require wooden hat blocks, but you can do a flat pattern 
top hat from buckram.  

Look around for classes.  I just taught a top hat class in the Bay area last 
weekend.   
There are now 12 new top hats being sported there.

Mary LaVenture
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 08:25:44 1999
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 09:34:32 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk Flowers for Hair Ornaments at the Italian Courts
	1550
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

In a message dated 11/14/99 12:40:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
wandapease@bigfoot.com writes:

<< 
 I've been going through the topics listings from the Medici Archives project
 in the Costume and Dress section.  These are letters and notes sent to and
 from Eleonora di Toledo and Duke Cosimo I.  Unfortunately the really
 interesting pieces are in Italian, but there is also a short synopsis of
 some 150 documents in English. Two talk about silk flowers sent to be used
 as hair ornaments.
 
 Eleonora de' Medici
  Duchessa di Mantova (1587)
  Location: Mantova
 
 
 - >>
WOW!!

This is the first I've heard of the Medici Archives project.  How do you 
access this information?  I am very interested.  Do they have a web site?

Please share
Pasha
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 11:38:38 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST:Ells
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1 and 3 both have a discussion of this.  
She references F. W. Maitland's Doomsday Book and Beyond and Philip 
Grierson's Stenton Lecture of 1971 entitled English Linear Measures and 
published by University of Reading.  The ell was different lengths in 
different times and different places.  The English ell has been 45 inches 
since the sixteenth century.  45 inches was accepted by some before that, but 
it was not universal in England.  Prior to 1406, the ell had variously been 2 
yards or 1 1/2 yards.  In the Sixteenth Century, the Spanish ell and the 
French ell were a few inches different from the English ell.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 10:40:19 1999
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 11:49:02 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

There's a book called "Bury Me Standing Up" which is a cultural history of 
the Gypsies.  They were thought to have migrated to Europe from India.  The 
book covers several centuries and locations, so for a specific place and time 
there is only a little info.  However, there *may* be a bibliography in it to 
help you in your investigation.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 12:46:18 1999
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Message-ID: <003601bf2ed1$1d8ebec0$05e6f1c3@henk>
From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <2.2.16.19991113183841.44af3c0c@mail2.quiknet.com> <382DEC98.812C6571@pcs.k12.mi.us>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 17:27:09 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi

Raella wrote:
, does anyone know how long an
> 'el' is? This is often mentioned in the Spanish tailors book, but I
> couldn't find the modern equivelent.

Over in the Netherlands an 'ell' could from ca 1000 to ca now (some market
merchants still have ell-measuring sticks!) be from ca 60 cm to about 80 cm.
69-70 was the most common measure though.

Hope this helps,

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 13:02:38 1999
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:15:27 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The making of top hats
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

If anyone is interested in original top hats - I have 5 or 6 to sell on my
web site.


At 09:24 AM 11/14/99 EST, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: MLaventure@aol.com
>
>
>It is very possible to make a top hat yourself without having a lot of
tools. 
> I would recommend DL Designs patterns...Alteryears should carry them.  
>Deborah gives extensive instructions in her patterns. This would walk you 
>through making a buckram base.  
>
>I would also recommend that you pick up the book From the Neck Up by D. 
>Dreher.  This book covers felt, buckram, straw, etc., and is considered the 
>"Bible" for hatmaking.
>
>Some top hats will require wooden hat blocks, but you can do a flat pattern 
>top hat from buckram.  
>
>Look around for classes.  I just taught a top hat class in the Bay area last 
>weekend.   
>There are now 12 new top hats being sported there.
>
>Mary LaVenture
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>

Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 13:17:28 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.a520fa52.256041fe@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 19:53:09 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi,

Hope wrote:
> There's a book called "Bury Me Standing Up" which is a cultural history of
> the Gypsies.  They were thought to have migrated to Europe from India.
The
> book covers several centuries and locations, so for a specific place and
time
> there is only a little info.  However, there *may* be a bibliography in it
to
> help you in your investigation.

Thank you, Hope. Does this mean that out in H-Costume-land nobody knows
anything about how gyspies were dressed in the middle ages?

Henk


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 13:19:21 1999
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 17:21:37 +0000
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
In-Reply-To: <199911131628.IAA23359@apollo.directcon.net>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <199911131628.IAA23359@apollo.directcon.net>, Margo Anderson
<margo@directcon.net> writes
>No, you have been misinformed.  The English inch and the American inch are
>the same.
>
>Your informant may have been confused by the fact that the English people
>have had the good sense to go over to the metric system, leaving the US
>alone in our stubborness in maintaining this ridiculous system.  
>
>Have any of the list members who were raised with the Imperial system
>managed to train themselves to think in metric when they sew?  I keep
>thinking I should, but haven't managed to do it yet.  One thing I did find
>handy, when I was in the bridal gown fitting racket, was to take the bride's
>measurements in metri, so she didn't argue with numbers she wasn't
>emotionally fixated on.  
>
>Margo
>
Hi - thanks for your help, Margo, I'm back.

I grew up using metric all the way through school, but I can't do
anything personal in metric - sewing, cooking, weighing myself.  But
often I just go for whichever comes to a whole number on whatever I'm
doing - I'm quite happy to measure something as 23 inches long and 68
centimetres wide!

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 15:43:09 1999
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From: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.a520fa52.256041fe@aol.com> <004301bf2ed5$c1097f00$05e6f1c3@henk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 03:49:31 -0600
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-Poster: "fhavas" <ches@io.com>

You have no idea how correct you are Henk. Everyone that I have conversed
with had a totally different view of what they looked like. On the SCA list
we have two individuals that have done a great deal of personal research on
these people and have come out with different answers. I personally know
someone from Macedonia and he tells me that it is on purpose that their true
dress and identity is obscured or purposely misdirected.

So tell us what you have learned and we will add it to our files of one more
person's research of what these 4 different peoples called the gypsy's look
like to you.

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 14, 1999 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies


>
> -Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Hope wrote:
> > There's a book called "Bury Me Standing Up" which is a cultural history
of
> > the Gypsies.  They were thought to have migrated to Europe from India.
> The
> > book covers several centuries and locations, so for a specific place and
> time
> > there is only a little info.  However, there *may* be a bibliography in
it
> to
> > help you in your investigation.
>
> Thank you, Hope. Does this mean that out in H-Costume-land nobody knows
> anything about how gyspies were dressed in the middle ages?
>
> Henk
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 16:29:05 1999
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:43:06 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
Subject: H-COST: shawls
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-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

People looking for shawls--I've seen lots of these on eBay. Are they the 
wrong type?


http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=197037728

Kim
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Silk Flowers for Hair Ornaments at the Italian Courts1550
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:55:54 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

Drat! I don't know if it is my server, or what, but it looks as though
several of my posts have been cut off in about mid sentence.  I'll try
sending them again.  The URL for the Medici Archive is
medici.org/hum/topics/topicreports/CostumeandDress_1Page119.html with the
usual beginning.
I cut off the http and www because some of my friends cannot receive them
when I simply cut and paste.

Regina

Eleonora de' Medici
 Duchessa di Mantova (1587)
 Location: Mantova

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 16:54:34 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: shawls
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 04:43 PM 11/14/99 -0600, J,K,S&A Baird wrote:
>
>-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>
>
>People looking for shawls--I've seen lots of these on eBay. Are they the 
>wrong type?
>
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=197037728
>
>Kim

I can testify to the loveliness of these Russian-made shawls. I have two of
them <g>; one with a red ground and one with dark blue. I bought them for
$65 (includes California sales tax) each (less my docent discount <g>) at
the Sutter's Fort Trade Store in Sacramento, CA. If anyone is interested in
one of these shawls, you can call the store at 916-442-4966 to find out
which ones are available (it's a small store so they don't order these in
large numbers; but special orders and mail order are available). If you are
in the area, Sutter's Fort is at 2701 L Street, Sacramento, right off the
Capital City Freeway. Come visit us at the Fort on Saturday, November 20,
10am-4pm, for Living History Day, when you walk into 1846.

>From your friendly Sutter's Fort docent,



Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 15:13:53 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The making of top hats
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: MLaventure@aol.com
<snip very helpful info>

thanks so much! I will definately take a closer look at my alteryears
catalogue tonite.

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 17:31:02 1999
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Silk Flowers for Hair Ornaments at the Italian Courts1550-one more time
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 15:39:08 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

I'm going to type this in myself instead of using the cut and paste option
from the Medici Archives site:

>From Eleonora de' Medici
Duchess di Mantova (1587)
Location: Mantova

To:  Cristina de' Medici
Grand Duchess of Ferdinando I
Location: Toscana

Synopsis:  Having learned that Grand Duchess Crinstin di Lorena used the
silk flower hair ornaments that Duchess of Mantua Eleonora de' Medici sent
her last year, Eleonora sends Cristina a new sample of silk flowers and
offers to send more if they are to her liking.

(second letter)

Synopsis:  Duchess of Mantua Eleonora de'Medici entrusts to Biagio Pignatta
a specially-wripped box containing flowers (possibly made of silk) that are
too fragile to send via regular courier, and asks him to ensure its safe
delivery to Cardinal Francesco Sforza in Rome

	If anyone reads Italian and can translate all these synopses, it would be
wonderful.  The Italian is much more detailed than the English.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Wanda Pease
> Sent: Sunday, November 14, 1999 2:56 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: RE: H-COST: Silk Flowers for Hair Ornaments at the Italian
> Courts1550
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
>
> Drat! I don't know if it is my server, or what, but it looks as though
> several of my posts have been cut off in about mid sentence.  I'll try
> sending them again.  The URL for the Medici Archive is
> medici.org/hum/topics/topicreports/CostumeandDress_1Page119.html with the
> usual beginning.
> I cut off the http and www because some of my friends cannot receive them
> when I simply cut and paste.
>
> Regina
>
> Eleonora de' Medici
>  Duchessa di Mantova (1587)
>  Location: Mantova
>

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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 15:52:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Margretta de Vries <smstrss@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The making of top hats
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-Poster: Margretta de Vries <smstrss@yahoo.com>

Does anyone have a suggestion on museums (with costume exhibits?))  to
visit in Munich, Nurnberg, or Stuttgart?  I'll be in Germany in a week
or so, and would love to look at what I can while I'm there!

margretta 


=====

Margretta de Vries

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From: Margretta de Vries <smstrss@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: museums
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-Poster: Margretta de Vries <smstrss@yahoo.com>

Does anyone have a suggestion on museums (with costume exhibits?))  to
visit in Munich, Nurnberg, or Stuttgart?  I'll be in Germany in a week
or so, and would love to look at what I can while I'm there!

margretta 


=====

Margretta de Vries

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 17:47:17 1999
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: museums
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 15:55:35 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

Go to the German History Museum in Nurnberg.  If you can get someone to call
in for you (or try it yourself, you have nothing to lose) ask for the
curator of the costume section.  When I was there, we managed to arrange to
have him (it was a he at the time) take us into the basement where they keep
the clothing that Janet Arnold used for her book.  We were even allowed to
handle the dresses (not the hats, they were in too fragile condition), and I
got to wear the one man's cape after the curator took it off the special
stand they have made for it!
   Even if you don't get to go into the Vaults, the art collection will keep
you moving slowly for an entire day (at least!)

Regina

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Margretta de Vries
> Sent: Sunday, November 14, 1999 3:53 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: museums
>
>
>
> -Poster: Margretta de Vries <smstrss@yahoo.com>
>
> Does anyone have a suggestion on museums (with costume exhibits?))  to
> visit in Munich, Nurnberg, or Stuttgart?  I'll be in Germany in a week
> or so, and would love to look at what I can while I'm there!
>
> margretta
>
>
> =====
>
> Margretta de Vries
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 19:42:11 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 20:31:05 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>


>I have a researcher friend who works with metric all day in the lab, but
can't
>make her brain use metric when cooking.  She thought it odd.



I have the same problem.  I use metric all day at work, for everything
except height and weight.  Have no idea how to cook in metric as all my
measuring devices in the kitchen are american.  I rather wish this country
would get with it and finish switching.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 20:27:23 1999
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 21:38:09 EST
Subject: H-COST: inches & Anna and the King
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 11/14/99 8:02:18 PM Central Standard Time, 
mmchugh@starpower.net writes:

<<  I rather wish this country
 would get with it and finish switching.
  >>

I don't I like inches.  I find the metric confusing.  I know it does the 10 
thing but the other is what I am used to.  

I just saw a commerical for the remake of "Anna and the King"  I plan on 
seeing it.  Has anyone heard anything about it yet?  Are the clothes suppose 
to be great?
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 21:01:52 1999
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 17:59:13 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: affordable shawl - 1850's
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Margo Anderson wrote:
> >>>With the recent Pashmina craze bringing shawls back into current fashion, I
> >>>have grown hopeful that some maker out there might be offering a synthetic
> >>>version that would do well with Regency wear.
> >>
> >>I'm also hoping for this, preferably a large square that would do for
> >>`1850's.
> >
> >Check in the Smithsonian catalog.  They often have big square shawls kind
> >of like this.
> >
> Yes, I just saw the Smithsonian catalof at my parent's house.  The current
> issue has a 54" square and an oblong, both under $100, as I recall.

One word of warning about the Smithsonian shawls - I received the 54"
square one for christmas last year (I'd asked for it) and was rather
disappointed in it.  They say in the catalog that it's 100% wool, but
it's *very* thin - you can see right thru it.  I live in So Cal and I
wouldn't even try to wear it for warmth with a Regency even here.  I
think it was $60 in last year's catalog, but I don't consider it worth
that amount of money.  This is the wool shawl they have which is
predominantly reds with a paisley pattern.

Carolyn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 21:13:21 1999
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 19:33:44 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

What you don't understand is that metric measurements are a Communist
Plot!!!  You may laugh, but that is the basis of the right wing and the
Replublican refusal to let us progress in that direction.
Oh, if only cows could fly we would all be more covered in it than we are
now.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
>Date: Sun, Nov 14, 1999, 5:31 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
>
>>I have a researcher friend who works with metric all day in the lab, but
>can't
>>make her brain use metric when cooking.  She thought it odd.
>
>
>
>I have the same problem.  I use metric all day at work, for everything
>except height and weight.  Have no idea how to cook in metric as all my
>measuring devices in the kitchen are american.  I rather wish this country
>would get with it and finish switching.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 21:22:39 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
>What you don't understand is that metric measurements are a Communist
>Plot!!!  You may laugh, but that is the basis of the right wing and the
>Replublican refusal to let us progress in that direction.
>Oh, if only cows could fly we would all be more covered in it than we are
>now.


You'd think that after that recent Mars Orbiter debacle (caused by the fact
that some of the instructions were in metric and some in English) that
they'd catch a clue. Most of the scientific world has been metric for years;
heck, we even used metric in high school science.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 14 21:57:00 1999
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 20:12:38 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>I have the same problem.  I use metric all day at work, for everything
>except height and weight.  Have no idea how to cook in metric as all my
>measuring devices in the kitchen are american.  I rather wish this country
>would get with it and finish switching.

We have both at home. I know that tupperware makes metric baking tools :]

I've grown up using metric in the school system, and inches, pounds and
metres at home. The only thing I have no concept of is a mile :] I've never
timed myself walking one, I guess. The system I use for baking is "1 litre
= 4 cups", and it works for almost everything.

Kris

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Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 20:10:38 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

I'm still unconverted.  I use a double-sided rule, one metric, one English
for everything.  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 15 03:38:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 09:49:24 +0000
From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: inches
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Margo wrote
"The English... have gone over to metric"

Not entirely! All foodstuffs have to be sold by metric measures, but pubs still serve beer in pints. Many fabric shops have still been selling by the yard in recent times. We measure cooking ingredients by weight rather than volume as the Americans do, and most recipe books give figures for both grammes and ounces - and, yes, we still use miles!
I was taught science in metric at school, but still think in feet and inches.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1860's Mourning Attire
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/13/1999 5:40:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Hhdunlap@aol.com writes:

<< I enjoyed seeing the picture in the paper today of two women in 1860's 
 mourning attire at The Citidel, participating in a ceremony to rebury a 
 number of Civil War dead who were unearthed during an archeological dig 
prior 
 to a new stadium being built.  (I (I hope I reported that accurately.)  They 
 wore black dresses and bonnets with black veils over all.  Really made the 
 heart skip a beat.
  >>

Nearly every Southern mother, sister, wife lost someone during the Civil War 
and needed a black dress. Many, poor because of the war, dyed existing 
dresses [I've heard with Walnut husks] black. 
And then there's that black crepe veiling....anybody know where to get that 
today? I've never seen anything like it out there.
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-Poster: Asia Poppers <apoppers@BBNPLANET.COM>

Hi Kim, 

Thanks so much for posting this info!  The shawls you mentioned on e-bay
are almost exactly what I am looking for; the factory that makes them was
founded in 1812!  I was sort of hoping for something with a more paisleyish
or generally Indian pattern, but that's just a picky detail.

Others who are interested in shawls ofr Regency wear should check this
auction out and also take a look at the seller's other auctions.

I have no affiliation with the seller, nor have I ever bought anything from
them.  I just think their product is cool.

Asia

>-Poster: "J,K,S&A Baird" <baird@rrnet.com>

>People looking for shawls--I've seen lots of these on eBay. Are they the 
>wrong type?


>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=197037728

>Kim
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 15 08:22:57 1999
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-Poster: Asia Poppers <apoppers@BBNPLANET.COM>

Thanks for the heads-up, Carolyn.  Depending on what one were looking for,
the light weight might actually be a bonus; wedding-ring shawls having been
the vogue in the 19th century and all.  I will certainly keep in mind that
the item I'm looking for might turn out to be far more useful for fashion
than for warmth.

Asia

>One word of warning about the Smithsonian shawls - I received the 54"
>square one for christmas last year (I'd asked for it) and was rather
>disappointed in it.  They say in the catalog that it's 100% wool, but
>it's *very* thin - you can see right thru it.  I live in So Cal and I
>wouldn't even try to wear it for warmth with a Regency even here.  I
>think it was $60 in last year's catalog, but I don't consider it worth
>that amount of money.  This is the wool shawl they have which is
>predominantly reds with a paisley pattern.

>Carolyn

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From: "Alexandra Frazier" <alexfrazier@hotmail.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Ell Measurement
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-Poster: "Alexandra Frazier" <alexfrazier@hotmail.com>

An ell is 45 inches.

Kathy Pryor


______________________________________________________
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:19:23 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: questions in need of answers
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

I have another question: Does anyone know when cloisonne beads came into use, 
in Western Europe?

Thanks!
--Jessica

> 
> -Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
> 
> I've seen Byzantine cloisonne and Carolingian cloisonne (probably 
> learned from Byzantine craftspeople). That puts the technique in 
> Europe around 800 CE or earlier.
> 
> I'm not certain of the dates on the pieces i've seen. Some of what 
> i've seen is not jewelry for personal wear, however, they are 
> "jewels" on metal book covers, what a friend of mine calls book 
> shrines.
> 
> I don't know where they learned it. They could have gotten it from 
> points east, although it's also possible they thought it up on their 
> own...
> 
> I recently looked at two wonderful art books, one on Carolingian art 
> and the other on Byzantine art, so i suggest searching through art 
> books for examples and data.
> 
> Lilinah
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 15 16:59:32 1999
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:22:36 -0800
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

re: information on cloisonne enamels.

Here is one resource i've located:
Wessel, Klaus.  _Byzantine Enamels from the 5th to the 13th century_, 
copyright 1967.
23 colour plates; 133 black & white.
Part of a description: "A comprehensive selection of important pieces 
illustrates the development of the art of enamel..."

i have not actually seen this book, just read some references to it, 
but it could be a start in one's research, since, as i recall, there 
were no specific resources mentioned in the thread.

Lilinah
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Subject: H-COST: turning ivory silk tulle white
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 99 17:43:50 -0800
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-Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>


Hi all,

I have some ivory silk tulle (modern, not vintage) that I would like
to bleach or otherwise turn white. Anybody know how I would do it?

thanks in advance,

Gail DeCamp


Dogs come when you call them. Cats have answering machines.  

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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:43:24 -0800
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

M311@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I just saw a commerical for the remake of "Anna and the King"  I plan on
> seeing it.  Has anyone heard anything about it yet?  Are the clothes suppose
> to be great?
> Kelly

There's a short article on it in the current Victoria magazine.
The used about 15 kilometers of Thai silk!

There was an article in Newsweek last August:
http://members.tripod.com/abesapien/articles/anna_newsweek1.html

Susan Fatemi

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 20:49:59 EST
Subject: H-COST: beads
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

I found these beads on ebay the otherday while searching.  They say they are 
made of tobacco. Has anybody ever heard of this before?  I haven't heard or 
seen anything like this.  I was wondering if this is just weird or was this 
was a practice.  It isn't something I want to buy but was more curious about.
Unusual Tobacco Beads 14 Feet! Vintage?
                                                       Item #196306730
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=196306730
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 15 19:50:16 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

KATE M BUNTING wrote:
> 
> Margo wrote
> "The English... have gone over to metric"
> 
> Not entirely! All foodstuffs have to be sold by metric measures, but pubs still serve beer in pints. 

Not only that, but their pints are way bigger than ours!

Maybe that's why someone thought English and American 
inches were different!

Susan F.


-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 15 20:20:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 21:35:51 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1860's Mourning Attire
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

There is no mourning crape being manufactured anymore.  It emitted a toxic
odor that caused respritory ailments and was actually ruining the eyesight
of the wearer.  I have several mourning veils.  Smaller sizes sell for $35
and larger sell for $45.  




Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 15 20:23:17 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: beads
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 20:35:53 -0600
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

It seems kinda odd, but beads have been made out of lots of stuff,
especially in the South. What would vintage mean here?

Amanda



----------
> Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 7:49 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: M311@aol.com
> 
> I found these beads on ebay the otherday while searching.  They say they
are 
> made of tobacco. Has anybody ever heard of this before?  I haven't heard
or 
> seen anything like this.  I was wondering if this is just weird or was
this 
> was a practice.  It isn't something I want to buy but was more curious
about.
> Unusual Tobacco Beads 14 Feet! Vintage?
>                                                        Item #196306730
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=196306730
> Kelly
> m311@aol.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 15 20:58:40 1999
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 22:11:52 EST
Subject: H-COST: Gypsies
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

The book is actually  *Bury Me Standing,* by Isobel Fonseca, Vintage Books, 
New York, 1995, ISBN 0-679-40678-6, and fascinating.  There is an extensive 
bibliography of cultual anthropolofy type books.  The List might like:

*History of the Kings of the Earth,* by the Persian chronicler Hamza 
al-Isfahani in the year 950, the first known reference to the Roma in print.

*The Gypsies in the Byzantine Empire and The Balkans in the Late Middle 
Ages,* by G. C. Soulis in Dunbarton Oaks Papers 15 (1961), pages 143-65.

I'm sure there is a lot to be gleaned from the extensive bibliography, but 
these two pop up immediately referring to SCA period.

The Indian origin of the gypsies was first discovered by a Hungarian in 1753 
who colllected 1000 words from peoples on the SouthWest coast of India, can 
home and discovered that the local Roma knew them all.  There are words of 
Iranian and Armenian origin in the Roma language too.

The diaspora of the gypsies was far-reaching, but some communities of Roma 
such as in Albania, remained completely cut off from the rest their people 
for some 600 years.  In Albania, the Roma were Moslem, for instance.  But 
nonetheless, Fonseca indicates they had more in common with other Roma in far 
off places than they did with the native Albanians.  Nevertheless there had 
to be regional differences as the scores of books about gypsies in a certain 
country certainly attest.

The photographs in Fonseca's book show the Roma over the last 150 years.  The 
fabrics, prints, headcloths, wedding hats, decorations, necklaces of money, 
have obvious visual links to their Indian and Iranian origins.  The few 
photos are a rich resource, but the index has no references to costume, 
dress, sewing, tailoring, and articles of dress, and there are no images of 
gypsies from previous times. 


Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 15 21:23:06 1999
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

More on gypsies  here:  http://www.geocities.com/Paris/5121/culture.htm

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 15 21:36:17 1999
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 22:57:09 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costume Institute
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

List,
	I was in New York last weekend and stumbled into this great exhibit at the
MET.  The curator had died the night before and the staff and docents were
visibly shaken.


http://costumeinstitute.org/ingres.htm


	The week before, I was in DC and saw the Annie Leibovitz show.  I was
really blown away!  The catalog was $45 for soft bound and $75 for the hard
bound, which was out of my league.  But sitting there next to the
catalogues was the November issue of Vogue which has just about all of the
photographs from the show. it was an excellent way to spend $4. 
I wonder if there is a website for Vogue that will include pics?  I'll
check on it.


Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:55:26 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: turning ivory silk tulle white
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



"Gail K. DeCamp" wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have some ivory silk tulle (modern, not vintage) that I would like
> to bleach or otherwise turn white. Anybody know how I would do it?

For god's sake don't use chlorine bleach on it - it will turn yellow if
it's 100% silk, or even has some silk content.  I don't know how they
make silk white - I think it's natural color is ivory.  But you might
test a small piece of it with something like Rit Color Remover, or Biz.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 15 22:06:15 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: turning ivory silk tulle white
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 22:00:56 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Yes, silk's natural color is ivory. Rit Color remover will only take out any
color added to the silk. So if the tulle is already ivory color it is
probably the natural color and trying Rit Color remover will not turn it
white.
Carol Ross

>For god's sake don't use chlorine bleach on it - it will turn yellow if
>it's 100% silk, or even has some silk content.  I don't know how they
>make silk white - I think it's natural color is ivory.  But you might
>test a small piece of it with something like Rit Color Remover, or Biz.
>
>Carolyn
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.c401c45c.25621247@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: beads
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 23:42:22 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> I found these beads on ebay the otherday while searching.  They say they
are
> made of tobacco. Has anybody ever heard of this before?  I haven't heard
or
> seen anything like this.  I was wondering if this is just weird or was
this
> was a practice.  It isn't something I want to buy but was more curious
about.
> Unusual Tobacco Beads 14 Feet! Vintage?

I've made similar beads with rose petals (for a small bracelet). It probably
wouldn't be too hard to make out of tabacco. I have no idea what anyone
would do with 14 feet, though. Any ideas?

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Subject: Re: H-COST: beads
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

How do you make beads from rose petals?
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 10:24:52 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Metic vs. Imperial measures
In-reply-to: <199911132147.OAA23089@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> the English people have had the good sense to go over to the metric
> system, leaving the US alone in our stubborness in maintaining this
> ridiculous system.  

No no no!  It's the Americans who have had the good sense to 
stick to *real* measurements instead of those fiddly little metric 
ones!
 
> Have any of the list members who were raised with the Imperial
> system managed to train themselves to think in metric when they
> sew?  I keep thinking I should, but haven't managed to do it yet. 
> One thing I did find handy, when I was in the bridal gown fitting
> racket, was to take the bride's measurements in metri, so she
> didn't argue with numbers she wasn't emotionally fixated on.  

I was raised and schooled in metric and *still* think and do 
everthing in inches.  I find them so much easier to work in and I 
can actually visiualise how big something is if someone says, for 
example,  "two feet"  If I they said "60 cm." I'd have think ... "about 
30 cm to a foot...  that's two feet then"  before I could visualise it ( 
and that's one of the *easier* conversions.  Give me good old 
Imperial measurements any day.

I'm a three barleycorns to and inch man and no mistake....<g>

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 07:09:43 -0500
From: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>
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Subject: H-COST: begging, please, lining question?
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-Poster: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>

I don't mean to sound persistent to the point of irritation, but can
ANYone help with this question?  Surely there are some on this list who
have worked with museum collections or have studied this era and know
something about these fabrics?  Please? Here goes again:

Can anyone tell me the period name for a material I often see as a
lining in women's and children's dresses, from the 19thC?  It looks like

a coarse linen - or sometimes cotton - with a heavy glaze on it, often
cracked with age, crackles almost like paper and the color varies from
pale beige to a golden brown.  I've seen references to book (or buk)
muslin, glazed calico, brown holland, victoria lawn, etc.  But what's
what?

Thank you!!!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 07:22:17 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Metic vs. Imperial measures
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 00:31:41 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> > the English people have had the good sense to go over to the metric
> > system, leaving the US alone in our stubborness in maintaining this
> > ridiculous system.  
> 
> No no no!  It's the Americans who have had the good sense to 
> stick to *real* measurements instead of those fiddly little metric 
> ones!

Actually, if my feeble brain for history serves me correctly, the US went
metric in its road system many, many years ago but no one paid attention,
including the people who make the roadsigns.

For my money, in Australia that converted to metric during the 1960s and
'70s, I am damned if I can figure out metric weights or measurements -
makes it hell for the shop assistants in my favourite fabric stores.

In short, they should have waited until all the old people died before
introducing it,

-C.
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From: "Kim & Ian Stanley-Eyles" <danthonia@smartchat.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: H-COST Cloth questions
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 01:10:47 +1100
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-Poster: "Kim & Ian Stanley-Eyles" <danthonia@smartchat.net.au>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF3098.9471A020
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Greetings all,

I am making a costume from the period of Richard I.  It has a wide round =
collar and inset arm bands with a wide bodice, full skirt and full =
sleeves.

My questions are:

1.  Is the bodice of a different material (colour, linen/wool/silk, etc) =
to the sleeves and skirt?

2.  According to the SCA publication "Survey of Period Fabrics and =
Proper Fabric Selection" p5, it says antique satins are an acceptable =
equivalent.  Is this correct?

3.  According to my copy of Calthorp's 1926 edition of "English Costume" =
p56, it says that cloth-of-gold and cloth-of-silken-gold was available =
at this time.  Are gold threads and gold colours acceptable?

I am looking at using an orange/gold antique satin for the bulk of the =
dress and  beaded collar and insets.

Yours,


Michaelin of the Artes Gentill
(Kim Stanley-Eyles)

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF3098.9471A020
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Greetings all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am making a costume from the period =
of Richard=20
I.&nbsp; It has a wide round collar and inset arm bands with a wide =
bodice, full=20
skirt and full sleeves.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My questions are:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>1.&nbsp; Is the bodice of a different =
material=20
(colour, linen/wool/silk, etc) to the sleeves and skirt?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>2.&nbsp; According to the SCA =
publication "Survey=20
of Period Fabrics and Proper Fabric Selection" p5, it says antique =
satins are an=20
acceptable equivalent.&nbsp; Is this correct?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>3.&nbsp; According to my copy of =
Calthorp's 1926=20
edition of "English Costume" p56, it says that cloth-of-gold and=20
cloth-of-silken-gold was available at this time.&nbsp; Are gold threads =
and gold=20
colours acceptable?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am looking at using an orange/gold =
antique satin=20
for the bulk of the dress and&nbsp; beaded collar and =
insets.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Yours,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Michaelin of the Artes =
Gentill</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>(Kim =
Stanley-Eyles)</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF3098.9471A020--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 07:59:49 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Well, I don't know about anyone else but I didn't answer because I don't
know!!  I do recall reading in the "Little House" books about Laura
using muslin to line a basque but I'd have to go hunt the book down to
make sure that that's what she said.

Kat
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Tobacco and Other Beads
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 09:13:02 -0500
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

	Back in the early to mid-50's (when I was just a kid), I remember
that there was a resurgence of making beads from rose petals.  I believe
this was done in Victorian times.  They were mottled rose colored and brown
and smelled like roses.  In imitation of these beads/necklaces, there were
also ones which were matte light pink in color, molded into little round
beads with impressed rose petals, and appeared to be almost chalky.  My
Mother said these were "Sachet necklaces" and of course they smelled lightly
of roses too.

	Of course in the '50s, beads were also being made from triangles of
rolled up wallpaper strung together lengthwise for a necklace.  I remember
my Mother and her friends making matching handcrafted earrings and necklaces
from tiny glass beads and sequins,  and then there was the plastic "pop-it"
bead rage.  ; )

	So I think it's entirely possible that beads could be made of
tobacco, although I'd think they'd have to have varnish or shellac on them
to prevent the brown tobacco stain from getting on your neck in hot humid
weather -- or maybe they just wore them in winter!

	Connie 
	--------------------------------------
	Kelly wrote:

> I found these beads on ebay the otherday while searching.  They say they
> are 
> made of tobacco. Has anybody ever heard of this before?  I haven't heard
> or 
> seen anything like this.  I was wondering if this is just weird or was
> this 
> was a practice.  It isn't something I want to buy but was more curious
> about.
> Unusual Tobacco Beads 14 Feet! Vintage?
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 08:18:37 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 09:35:01 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: begging, please, lining question?
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

Well, I don't know what the original stuff is called but if you're looking 
for a substitute, I always thought it looked like pocket lining, also called 
silesia and available at tailoring supply companies.  Cheryl Odom
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 08:59:31 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: begging, please, lining question?
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 07:18:41 -0800
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

There were any number of fabrics used to line dresses.  Plain white muslin,
colored muslin, most anything that they could find.  Now the fabric you are
discribing has two theories about it.  One that it is a cheap cotton with a
white glue glaze.  Or two that it is hemp with a glaze.  It is my feeling
that it is a hemp.  While I know there are colored cottons, they com in as a
light brown and have never been commonly grown.  While hemp is naturally the
right color.  And I believe that hemp use to be very common.  So I feel that
your fabric is a glazed hemp.  But the only way to be sure is to take a look
at a strand under a microscope.

Yours Stephen Bergdahl

-----Original Message-----
From: jmhr@alltel.net [mailto:jmhr@alltel.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 4:10 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: begging, please, lining question?



-Poster: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>

I don't mean to sound persistent to the point of irritation, but can
ANYone help with this question?  Surely there are some on this list who
have worked with museum collections or have studied this era and know
something about these fabrics?  Please? Here goes again:

Can anyone tell me the period name for a material I often see as a
lining in women's and children's dresses, from the 19thC?  It looks like

a coarse linen - or sometimes cotton - with a heavy glaze on it, often
cracked with age, crackles almost like paper and the color varies from
pale beige to a golden brown.  I've seen references to book (or buk)
muslin, glazed calico, brown holland, victoria lawn, etc.  But what's
what?

Thank you!!!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 09:53:44 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I seem to remember reading somewhere that tobacco was used to repel
insects from stored fabric.  I suppose it didn't smell any worse than
cedar, and a lot better than moth balls.  That might account for the
unusual length also.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: beads
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> How do you make beads from rose petals?

At last! A question I know the answer to! *Happy Dance*

*ahem*

I've found a lot of variation in different recipies, but here is a basic for
making rose petal clay, from which you make rose petal beads. (I'm also
available for panels to teach how to work with the stuff, if anyone is
interested.)

First, get a whole lotta rose petals. Fresh is best, but dried can work if
you re-hydrate them.

Grind up the petals in a blender, into a fine mush.

Next, in an iron skillet (which conducts the heat properly, and adds a touch
of color) put the mush and a bit of water in, and start to lightly simmer.
Do not bring to a boil, as burnt petals just smell nasty. Cook this mush
until it turns dark and the water is mostly cooked off. If the water cooks
off before the right color is reached, add more, and KEEP STIRRING!

When the mush is ready, scoop out of the skillet and allow it to cool. Then,
take a morter and pestle (or whatever you can use to really grind with) and
get ready to have the best work-out your arms have ever had. 

When the mush is ground into a workable clay, you can form beads from it. I
usually go for the basic round bead, but you can use forms to press the clay
into shapes if you like. String the formed beads (carefully, so as not to
de-form them) onto a string or thin wire. 

Once strung, find a warm, dry area to hang them up and let them dry
completely. Be sure and turn them once a day, so they won't stick to the
string and crumble when you remove them. After three or four days, they
should be ready to string into a necklace, or whatever you like. 

Once dry, the beads may be polished, for a more finished look, or left
rough. If you want to add more rose scent to the beads, take some rose
essential oil, and put it into the clay as you are making the beads. You may
also add a small amount of oil to re-scent dried beads, but be careful not
to add too much. The beads may start to crumble if you do.
Also, store them well protected from small critters, as they are a tasty
munch for anything that likes to nosh on organic matter.

Please note, if you don't have time to do all this at once, you can, at any
point, put the rose mush/clay into the freezer and start up again with it
when you have time. 

I have lots more info, so please let me know if you'd like me to dig it out
for y'all. Also, there are some good web pages on the subject, just a quick
click from any of your favorite search engines.

Kate
----
StitchWitch

In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8




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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: beads
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> I found these beads on ebay the otherday while searching.  They say they
are 
> made of tobacco. Has anybody ever heard of this before?  I haven't heard
or 
> seen anything like this.  I was wondering if this is just weird or was
this 
> was a practice.  It isn't something I want to buy but was more curious
about.
> Unusual Tobacco Beads 14 Feet! Vintage?

It is a very interesting thing. Someone suggested that it might have been
used to repel insects. Maybe, but 14 feet worth? I'd be very interested to
know how this was used. My own theory is that it was personal decoration of
some sort, for persons who did not have access to fancier adornment. (But
then, I think EVERYTHING should be used for personal adornment!:)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8




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Subject: H-COST: turning ivory silk tulle white
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 99 09:30:04 -0800
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-Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>


Hi,

Carolyn and Carol,

Thank you for the warning about chlorine bleach. I thought there
might be something bad about bleach, but I wasn't sure. 

I think I'll cut a 1" slice off the bottom of it for swatches and test 
various substances (biz, bleach, Rit color remover) on it to see what 
they do. I may also try hanging a swatch in the sunlight. 

Any other suggestions of things I could try?

Thanks!

Gail DeCamp





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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I know hydrogen peroxide solution can be used to bleach wool, so perhaps
it would work on silk.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: beads
In-Reply-To: <199911160232.UAA15613@discordia.io.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> -Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
> 
> It seems kinda odd, but beads have been made out of lots of stuff,
> especially in the South. What would vintage mean here?

I'm betting in this case, "vintage" means "I don't know how old it is, but
it isn't new"

Emma

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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: turning ivory silk tulle white
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 09:53:21 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Hello,

You might also test a solution of lemon juice and water, or hydrogen
peroxide?

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Gail K. DeCamp [mailto:gdecamp@best.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 9:30 AM
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: turning ivory silk tulle white



-Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>


Hi,

Carolyn and Carol,

Thank you for the warning about chlorine bleach. I thought there
might be something bad about bleach, but I wasn't sure. 

I think I'll cut a 1" slice off the bottom of it for swatches and test 
various substances (biz, bleach, Rit color remover) on it to see what 
they do. I may also try hanging a swatch in the sunlight. 

Any other suggestions of things I could try?

Thanks!

Gail DeCamp





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 11:38:05 1999
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Message-ID: <0.ef50550f.2562f3d4@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 12:52:20 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tobacco and Other Beads
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 11/16/99 8:23:31 AM Central Standard Time, 
Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com writes:

<< Of course in the '50s, beads were also being made from triangles of
 rolled up wallpaper strung together lengthwise for a necklace.   >>

I had forgotten this.  I did these with my mom in the early 70's.  Necklaces 
and braceletts.  We strung them on corded elastic.  My daughter likes to make 
necklaces.  I guess I will have to tell her about this kind since I had 
forgotten.  
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 11:52:11 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991115150213.29141.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ell Measurement
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:58:56 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Wait a minute! Kathy wrote:
> An ell is 45 inches.
This is 1 m 12,5 cm (or with an American inch: 1 m 14,3 cm). I know for a
fact that an ell is considerably less. During the later middle ages and
until about 1800 this measure was used all over North Western Europe (except
Britain which used yards!) to measure cloth of all kinds. Depending on where
you were every city or region had it's own ell, of which a measuringstick
was kept in an official building and to which all ell-sticks had to be
measured. Depending on the region it was a length between 60 and 80 cm (24 -
32 inches) which is about the length of bent arm between wrist and shoulder
(depending on your size, of course). 69-70 cm  (27,6-28 inches) was the most
common length of the ell (ca 80%). 90 cm or more is just too much, because
the ell was really taken from a 'natural limb' and it wasn't the inside leg
;-).

In the Netherlands, after Napoleon initiated the metric standard, the meter
was often called an ell althoug it was a 100 cm, but before the end of the
19th c the meter was pretty much integrated in society. Only some cloth
merchants still used the ell-stick until very recently. Now they all have 50
cm measuring sticks.

You should also see it practically: a measuring stick more than a meter long
for cloth is just to awkward to handle.

Henk

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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.a520fa52.256041fe@aol.com> <004301bf2ed5$c1097f00$05e6f1c3@henk> <00a001bf2f4f$a9fc4f70$ac350418@C59303A>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:47:57 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi,

Fran wrote:
> You have no idea how correct you are Henk. Everyone that I have conversed
> with had a totally different view of what they looked like. On the SCA
list
> we have two individuals that have done a great deal of personal research
on
> these people and have come out with different answers.

Could you bring me into contact with these people? I'm curious as to their
sources.

 I personally know
> someone from Macedonia and he tells me that it is on purpose that their
true
> dress and identity is obscured or purposely misdirected.

Now why would they do that? They were a travelling people and as such very
visible to the more settled burghers and peasants. I can imagine they would
dress down to trade with the settlers, but they also had a reputation for
being exotic and until relatively recent they dressed the part in Hungarian
or Balkan outfits at fairs and other public events. So what's behind this
statement?
>
> So tell us what you have learned and we will add it to our files of one
more
> person's research of what these 4 different peoples called the gypsy's
look
> like to you.
>
Up till now I have one late 15th c drawing of a couple with two kids,
supposed to be gypsies. Apart from some details they look quite normal. I
also have written reports about Egytians from 1407 and later in our country.
That's all.

Henk
>

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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Tobacco Beads
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 12:59:23 -0500
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

In regard to the 14 ft string of tobacco beads:  Do you suppose this may be
a garland for a Christmas tree?

Connie Fairchild


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 11:57:13 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies
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-Poster: ches@io.com

I really do not know what is behind the statement that he gave me about
obscuring their tribal indentity. We can speculat as he will not
elaborate. He just tells me the history of how they came to be and the
legend of why they split into these different groups or tribes.

I will find the emails that I found before and send them to you privately
when I get home tonight.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 04:15:26 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: begging, please, lining question?
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Can anyone tell me the period name for a material I often see as a
>lining in women's and children's dresses, from the 19thC?  It looks like
>
>a coarse linen - or sometimes cotton - with a heavy glaze on it, often
>cracked with age, crackles almost like paper and the color varies from
>pale beige to a golden brown.  I've seen references to book (or buk)
>muslin, glazed calico, brown holland, victoria lawn, etc.  But what's
>what?

A lot of different kinds of thin cloth were used as linings in the 19th
century, some more common in one decade and some in others.  A lot of
things had different names depending on where they were made and who was
doing the talking.  Sizing, fillers, processing stuff, and even body oil
often destroyed whatever cloth they were put on after a few decades.  It is
really difficult, by e-mail, to know exactly which kind of cloth you might
have, or even what decade of dress you mean.  We can only speculate.

OTOH, you seem to have the actual lining in front of you.  Read, research,
ask people in your area who can see what you are seeing, look under a
microscope, etc.  Please don't get too upset if people on this list can't
help you with a question like this which has so many possible answers -
especially since there is no way for us to check our opinions against your
lining without seeing it.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 04:23:42 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tobacco and Other Beads
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


><< Of course in the '50s, beads were also being made from triangles of
> rolled up wallpaper strung together lengthwise for a necklace.   >>
>
>I had forgotten this.  I did these with my mom in the early 70's.  Necklaces 
>and braceletts.  We strung them on corded elastic.  My daughter likes to make 
>necklaces.  I guess I will have to tell her about this kind since I had 
>forgotten.  

I recently saw a paper-bead-making jig for sale in some mail order catalog.
 It was a stand holding a wire with a crank at one end, so you could wind
the paper around the wire.  It was in some mail order catalog, and it cost
way more than the plain old piece of coathanger wire I always used to use.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
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     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 10:38:29 -0800
From: "ldemas" <ldemas@lanset.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.9911161212060.5190-100000@fnord.io.com>
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-Poster: "ldemas" <ldemas@lanset.com>

I recently joined the list and have been following the Gypsy (Rom or
Romani) postings. Several months ago, PBS, A&E, or the History Channel
ran a one or two hour documentary on the "Rom"  which I believe is their
now preferred identification. There are many web sites devoted to the
Rom.  These sites may provide the information on their dress at various
times and within different host cultures.

Louis Demas
ldemas@lanset.com     

ches@io.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: ches@io.com
> 
> I really do not know what is behind the statement that he gave me about
> obscuring their tribal indentity. We can speculat as he will not
> elaborate. He just tells me the history of how they came to be and the
> legend of why they split into these different groups or tribes.
> 
> I will find the emails that I found before and send them to you privately
> when I get home tonight.
> 
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> ches@io.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 12:22:34 1999
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Message-ID: <005401bf3061$a6be17e0$59cdf1c3@henk>
From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <000a01bf303c$93171e00$ca0908d2@mudbrick>
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-COST Cloth questions
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:28:20 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004F_01BF3068.BD8671A0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Hi all,

Kim wrote:
  I am making a costume from the period of Richard I.  It has a wide =
round collar and inset arm bands with a wide bodice, full skirt and full =
sleeves.

  Do you mean British 1190-ish? Nobility?

  My questions are:

  1.  Is the bodice of a different material (colour, linen/wool/silk, =
etc) to the sleeves and skirt?

  No, you must see this as a long dress with long wide sleeves of one =
colour. Where the sleeves are sewn to the body a broad band of cloth, =
embroidered, worked with beads or gold and silver trinkets or made of =
brocate/bliat/sendal covered the seem. Around the neck-opening a similar =
band was sewn (what you call the collar) and if there was a front split =
this was bordered by the same type of band.

  2.  According to the SCA publication "Survey of Period Fabrics and =
Proper Fabric Selection" p5, it says antique satins are an acceptable =
equivalent.  Is this correct?

  Satin is a kind of silk woven in a special way. It was imported form =
the east, but therefore very expensive, even to nobles. It could also =
have come from spoils from the Crusades, which was considerably =
cheaper.;-)

  3.  According to my copy of Calthorp's 1926 edition of "English =
Costume" p56, it says that cloth-of-gold and cloth-of-silken-gold was =
available at this time.  Are gold threads and gold colours acceptable?

  Yes, especially for the bands. Cloth with gold threads woven into was =
even more expensive than satin. It was mainly used for ceremonial robes =
for kings and high nobility, or the vestments of bishops and even higher =
church-officials. Bands made of this stuff were affordable to the richer =
nobility.

  I am looking at using an orange/gold antique satin for the bulk of the =
dress and  beaded collar and insets.

  Sounds nice.

  Yours,

  Henk

------=_NextPart_000_004F_01BF3068.BD8671A0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Kim wrote:</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am making a costume from the period =
of Richard=20
  I.&nbsp; It has a wide round collar and inset arm bands with a wide =
bodice,=20
  full skirt and full sleeves.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Do you mean British 1190-ish?=20
  Nobility?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My questions are:</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>1.&nbsp; Is the bodice of a different =
material=20
  (colour, linen/wool/silk, etc) to the sleeves and skirt?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>No, you must see this as a long dress =
with long=20
  wide sleeves of one colour. Where the sleeves are sewn to the body a =
broad=20
  band of cloth, embroidered, worked with beads or gold and silver =
trinkets or=20
  made of brocate/bliat/sendal covered the seem. Around the neck-opening =
a=20
  similar band was sewn (what you call the collar) and if there was a =
front=20
  split this was bordered by the same type of band.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>2.&nbsp; According to the SCA =
publication "Survey=20
  of Period Fabrics and Proper Fabric Selection" p5, it says antique =
satins are=20
  an acceptable equivalent.&nbsp; Is this correct?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Satin is a kind of silk woven in a =
special way.=20
  It was imported form the east, but therefore very expensive, even to =
nobles.=20
  It could also have&nbsp;come from spoils from the Crusades, which was=20
  considerably cheaper.;-)</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>3.&nbsp; According to my copy of =
Calthorp's 1926=20
  edition of "English Costume" p56, it says that cloth-of-gold and=20
  cloth-of-silken-gold was available at this time.&nbsp; Are gold =
threads and=20
  gold colours acceptable?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Yes, especially for the bands. Cloth =
with gold=20
  threads woven into was even more expensive than satin. It was mainly =
used for=20
  ceremonial robes for kings and high nobility, or the vestments of =
bishops and=20
  even higher church-officials. Bands made of this stuff were affordable =
to the=20
  richer nobility.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am looking at using an orange/gold =
antique=20
  satin for the bulk of the dress and&nbsp; beaded collar and=20
  insets.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sounds nice.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Yours,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Henk</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_004F_01BF3068.BD8671A0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 12:23:55 1999
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From: "Alexandra Frazier" <alexfrazier@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ell Measurement
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-Poster: "Alexandra Frazier" <alexfrazier@hotmail.com>

This is in American inches and taken from the current edition
of the American Merriam-Webster Dictionary.  They don't go into much
detail, especially differentiating between an English, Spanish or
whatever "ell".  It would be interesting if someone on the list had
an 18th century dictionary to see how an ell is defined.

Kathy Pryor


>>
>-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
>Wait a minute! Kathy wrote:
> > An ell is 45 inches.
>This is 1 m 12,5 cm (or with an American inch: 1 m 14,3 cm). I know for a
>fact that an ell is considerably less. During the later middle ages and
>until about 1800 this measure was used all over North Western Europe 
>(except
>Britain which used yards!) to measure cloth of all kinds.

______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 12:32:17 1999
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:20:31
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kristin Page <kdp@tiac.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: turning ivory silk tulle white
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-Poster: Kristin Page <kdp@tiac.net>

The old Venetian method to bleach silk was to place the silk on a tenter
frame and then burn sulfur under it.  The method does work but it's not
very practical for home use (I did it with a small piece under a hood in
chemistry lab -- it STINKS!!)

Good luck,
Kristin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 12:36:17 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 13:52:17 EST
Subject: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
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-Poster: AnnoraK@aol.com

What is the easiest/best way to copy an existing vintage piece, short of 
taking the whole thing apart?  I have a 1910-ish coat that I've decided to 
try to copy rather than wear.  Other than a couple faded spots and some 
period repairs, it's in great shape and I'd rather not pick the whole thing 
apart (especially since I know I'll never get around to putting it back 
together).  It's fairly simple, except for some interesting decorative pieces 
that are layered on the upper torso front and back.  

I've done some pattern drafting (SCA) and alterations of modern patterns to 
get what I want, but never flat-out copied an existing piece.  I liked the 
details on this coat, and so in order to get what I want, I have to get them 
right.  What do I do?

Thanks!
--Jen
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Survey of Historical Textiles class at Stanford Univ
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 11:11:42 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


For those of you in the Silicon Valley area:
Stanford Continuing Ed is offering a class in Textiles called "Warps, Wefts,
and Whorls: A Structural Survey of Historical Textiles" (ART 80)
http://continuingstudies.stanford.edu/teal/courses/art80.html
I've taken many classes thru Stanford & love the University.  I cannot
recommend the program enough. That said, I've not taken this class, nor do I
know the instructor.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 13:28:45 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 12:42 PM 11/16/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
>
>I know hydrogen peroxide solution can be used to bleach wool, so perhaps
>it would work on silk.
>-- 


It might.  Or it might have the same effect that bleach does, and turn the
silk bright yellow.  

I believe I've told the story before on this list,  of the time this
happened to me, and what I went through to fix the dress before the bride
saw it, so I'll spare you all the bloody details.  Just be sure you do a
swatch before any procedure, every time, even if you've done it to that
fabric before.  Or you'll be sorry.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 13:51:31 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: turning ivory silk tulle white
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I'm not sure why you want to bleach your tulle.  I bought some (very 
expensive!) silk illusion, and while the "white" was whiter than the ivory, 
it was still creamy--not bright white.  Anything you use may also affect the 
hand of your tulle.  It could very well lose all its crispness and go limp.  
Also, unless you are doing a very small piece, I would think you are going to 
have a very difficult time handling the fabric and might not be able to get 
an even result.  So yes, be sure you test it first.

Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 14:00:25 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 15:15:47 EST
Subject: H-COST: re: richard 1 gown
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com




All one color, definitely. Clothes were all one color for a very long time, 
and usually are to this day.

I'm not certain about the satin question, but I would GUESS it should be 
shiny satin. Interested to hear the real answer . . .

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 14:46:14 1999
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From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lining question?
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

I have seen exactly what you describe lining 19th c. dresses; more 
1860's items than other decades (but that could be what I looked at!)

Sorry I don't know what its called but it looked like a thin glazed
cotton.  I previously assumed whatever the glaze chemical
was had caused it to go all brittle and possibly contributed to
the darkness of the brown color.  Good luck with your search.

---------------------------
>>Can anyone tell me the period name for a material I often see as a
>>lining in women's and children's dresses, from the 19thC?  It looks like
>>a coarse linen - or sometimes cotton - with a heavy glaze on it, often
>>cracked with age, crackles almost like paper and the color varies from
>>pale beige to a golden brown. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 15:02:27 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 15:08:46 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: H-COST Cloth questions
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-Poster: seamstrix@juno.com

Hello,

While I freely admit that the 12th century is not my area of primary
interest, I was under the impression that gowns did not have seperate
bodices, as such, during this period. All the illustrations that I have
seen indicate that gowns for men and women were cut with the bodice and
skirts as one which would mean that the whole piece would be one kind of
fabric. It's also my understanding that while the Crusades had brought
back many new kinds of silk from the Middle East, cloth of gold would
still have been ruinously expensive for any but the upper levels of
royalty, and would certainly not have been used in average clothing.
Another problem with the cloth of gold idea is that it is almost
impossible to get these days and is still extremely expensive and lame
just isn't the same. 

I'm also not sure where the collar is supposed to go? Other than around
the neck, of course.:-)  I don't recall seeing gowns of this period with
collars. The only decoration which I am familar with for this time period
is woven or embroidered bands at the edges of the garment. I'm not sure
if glass beads would have been used in decoative trim, and if they were,
they would be of a rather large size, not like the seed beads which we
commonly use today. 

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 15:10:38 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:26:19 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: lining question?
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

Many times Holland was used to line 19th and early 20th century bodices. 
Holland is a plain woven linen finished by a sizing of oil and starch which 
renders it opaque. Cambric, lining was also used. Cambric is a thin, narrow, 
stiff, glazed cotton fabric made from poorer yarns that underwear cambric. 
may be white or pieced-dyed.  It is always sized and has a high polish on 
right side. Does not launder. Similar to paper cambric and comes in widths of 
25 inches and 27 inches. Was also used for fancy dress costumes.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 15:23:10 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:39:26 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tobacco Beads
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 11/16/99 12:10:22 PM Central Standard Time, 
Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com writes:

<< 
 In regard to the 14 ft string of tobacco beads:  Do you suppose this may be
 a garland for a Christmas tree? >>

Would that be something people would do?  It would be long enough and the 
ribbon was a reddish color.  I just wonder if the smell is strong.  I wonder 
if this came from someone who owned a tobacco plantation.  
Kelly
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 15:32:07 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Fabric available for "Titanic" Boarding Suits
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

I received the message below from a gal who is trying to get a big order
together in order to receive a lower price for a nice linen suiting
appropriate for the "boarding" suit Rose wears in the opening scenes of
"Titanic."

Please respond directly to Tracie if you are interested.  Thanks!

Jennie

------------------
I finally found some pinstripe fabric that will work for the boarding
suit.  The only thing I can find wrong with it is it is 100% linen,
which means wrinkles, but I was told that if I line the suit with
taffeta the suit will hold its shape better and won't wrinkle as bad.  I
have available pictures of the sample that was sent to me with black
pinstripes.  The weave of the fabric seems loose but it is pretty tight
and sturdy.  I can also get it with navy stripes as well. If anyone is
interested in ordering some, I am trying to get a better price than what
has been quoted so far.  Right now the price is based on a min order of
8 yards and is coming out to be about 18.00 per yard. My supplier told
me that she could get the price down if I place a larger order, so I am
having her price it on 20 yard and 40 yards orders to see what kind of
break I can get.  Anyone who may be interested can contact me at
TArnold30@aol.com.

--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 15:36:10 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: turning ivory silk tulle white
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Mon, 15 Nov 1999, Kristin Page wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Kristin Page <kdp@tiac.net>
> 
> The old Venetian method to bleach silk was to place the silk on a tenter
> frame and then burn sulfur under it.  The method does work but it's not
> very practical for home use (I did it with a small piece under a hood in
> chemistry lab -- it STINKS!
Besides that of course, the fumes would be poisonous and contribute
to acid rain. Definitely not something to try at home....
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 15:42:22 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 13:58:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Satin is not silk
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-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

Sorry, Henk, but this is one of my personal hot
buttons, so you get the lecture: 

Satin is a weave structure, a specific variety of
broken twill with very long warp floats.  Silk is a
fiber.  The two have nothing to do with each other
except that it is possible to make satin from silk. 
It can also be made from wool, cotton, hemp, linen,
polyester, acetate, and many other fibers.

End of lecture. I feel much better now.

--Val

--- Henk 't Jong - tScapreel <scapreel@tip.nl> wrote:
 
Satin is a kind of silk woven in a special way. 



=====

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 15:50:16 1999
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

I just copied a circa 1908-1910 woman's walking jacket myself.  I laid
it out on the table, flattening it as best as possible and traced each
section, adding a seam allowance as I went (and doublechecking the
measurements of each piece with my measuring tape).  I'll clean up my
tracing later with the french curve and other drafting tools.  The coat
also had a fabulous braided trim design all over, and I traced that as
well.  Once I had the basic outline of the trim, I went back and
"illustrated" it, looking at the original as I went along.

That's the best way I know to copy without destroying the original.
This was a princess-line walking jacket, so it was fairly easy to trace,
but I've also done entire dresses with pleats or gathers -- just
measuring the skirt at the hips and hem and measuring pleats where
necessary.  It doesn't take very long, and the cleaning-up process isn't
difficult.  :-)

Just my two cents....

Jennie
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 15:55:03 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 17:09:47 -0500
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Jen asked:
>What is the easiest/best way to copy an existing vintage piece, short of 
>taking the whole thing apart?

I know that Threads magazine has published at least one (but I think two 
or more) articles on methods for taking a pattern off an intact garment.

Unfortunately, their website is currently down, so I can't search for the 
issue numbers.

Try visiting www.threadsmagazine.com and using their search feature to 
find the articles.  Then see if your local library has those issues.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


I have a dress I'd like to duplicate as well.  It is a very early
rayon(??) bias cut dress that is falling apart. Some of the pieces seem to
be square on the grain, some of them odd combinations of on grain and
bias.  Just laying it flat and tracing won't work well, because all the
pieces hanging on the bias have stretched out of shape.  

Does anybody know of any tricks that might help?


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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Satin is not silk
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Val wrote:
> Sorry, Henk, but this is one of my personal hot
> buttons, so you get the lecture:
>
> Satin is a weave structure, a specific variety of
> broken twill with very long warp floats.  Silk is a
> fiber.  The two have nothing to do with each other
> except that it is possible to make satin from silk.
> It can also be made from wool, cotton, hemp, linen,
> polyester, acetate, and many other fibers.

I know all that, but I thought that in the 12th c it was only silk that was
woven into satin. I looked it up though, and I seem to be wrong on both
accounts. Satin wasn.'t imported into England until the last quarter of the
13th c and didn't appear in London deposits until the late 14th c. There was
also satin-damask silk, also imported in the 14th c. So I guess satin is out
for the late 12th c.

Sorry,

Henk


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> I have a dress I'd like to duplicate as well.  It is a very early
> rayon(??) bias cut dress that is falling apart. Some of the pieces seem
to
> be square on the grain, some of them odd combinations of on grain and
> bias.  Just laying it flat and tracing won't work well, because all the
> pieces hanging on the bias have stretched out of shape.  
> 
> Does anybody know of any tricks that might help?

There is a book, which I belive is still in print, about making patterns
from finished garments. I have it at home, but WHERE at the moment is a darn
good question. If you try a search on, say, Amazon.com, you may be able to
find the information you need to hunt down ISBN and suchlike.

Kate
----
StitchWitch

In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8




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Subject: H-COST: making ivory tulle white
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 99 14:40:32 -0800
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-Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>


This was, as you may all have suspected, my wedding veil. I
specifically went for ivory, since it matched my dress perfectly.

But.

Now my sister would like to wear the same veil when she marries.
The problem:  Her dress is white, not ivory. We laid the dress and
veil out against each other, and you could tell the difference. (It
doesn't need to be _a lot_ lighter, just a little bit.)
I offered to make her one, out of white tulle, but then it wouldn't be
my veil. Whoops. Darn.)

Gail DeCamp


>I'm not sure why you want to bleach your tulle.  I bought some (very 
>expensive!) silk illusion, and while the "white" was whiter than the ivory, 
>it was still creamy--not bright white.  Anything you use may also affect the 
>hand of your tulle.  It could very well lose all its crispness and go limp.  
>Also, unless you are doing a very small piece, I would think you are going 
>to 
>have a very difficult time handling the fabric and might not be able to get 
>an even result.  So yes, be sure you test it first.
>
>Ann Wass




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Subject: Re: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 17:41:18 -0500
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From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

I Just wrote:
>Unfortunately, their website is currently down, so I can't search for the 
>issue numbers.

Well, the website just came up again.

The articles are:

Issue 21 page 66
A Dressmaker Extraordinaire
Starting on page 69 the author begins to describe how she took patterns 
off existing garments.

Issue 26 page 34
Copying the Clothes You Love

Issue 39 page 40
Copying a Schiaparelli


Emma asked:
>Just laying it flat and tracing won't work well, because all the
>pieces hanging on the bias have stretched out of shape.  
>
>Does anybody know of any tricks that might help?

The method described in issue 21 claims to correct distortion due to bias 
stretching.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:47:39 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
In-Reply-To: <942791600.13971.673@excite.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> > I have a dress I'd like to duplicate as well.  It is a very early
> > rayon(??) bias cut dress that is falling apart. Some of the pieces seem
> to
> > be square on the grain, some of them odd combinations of on grain and
> > bias.  Just laying it flat and tracing won't work well, because all the
> > pieces hanging on the bias have stretched out of shape.  
> > 
> > Does anybody know of any tricks that might help?
> 
> There is a book, which I belive is still in print, about making patterns
> from finished garments. I have it at home, but WHERE at the moment is a darn
> good question. If you try a search on, say, Amazon.com, you may be able to
> find the information you need to hunt down ISBN and suchlike.

I do have a book that discribes a method which uses pins to mark the
seams, and then pencils to do a rubbing on muslin over the pins. I'd 
rather not poke holes in the fabric. It is excruciatingly delicate.

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 16:27:35 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

I've done this two ways.  If something isn't very far off grain, and the
grain is very obvious, pin your pattern copying material to one grain
line centered across the piece, then another at right angles to it.
Continuing out from these center lines, pinning along other grain lines
until the piece "squares up". you may still have some rippling, but if
it's only from stretching out you should come up with a reasonable
pattern piece.  On another dress, 1931 bias cut, I copied straight from
the dress with paper, marking the changes in grain as they happened,
then "trued" everything up so I had a pattern that was on the atraight
grain.  Bias sleeves that have hung up for long periods of time are the
worst, as they elongate and twist severely.  Sometimes you just have to
make an educated guess.
Oh yes, It's very hard to find the grain on a twill or fine weave unless
you have some sort of magnifying glass or 'scope.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Satin is not silk
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/16/1999 5:26:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
scapreel@tip.nl writes:

<< Sorry,
 
 Henk
  >>

Hey! Don't apologies. Because of this thread, we now all know the truth.
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

It has been my experience that the best way of copying an historical garment
is to do a draping.  Most of the lovely stuff I have copied over the years,
has been no where near the right size or even the right proportions, waist
too small, arms too narrow, and so on.  What I do is use the original
garment as a guild and drape a copy over a modern from.  It can take some
time, but I feel that the results are better in the long run.  It is also a
good way to practice draping until you start to do your own designs.

Yours Stephen Bergdahl
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

>
> > There is a book, which I belive is still in print, about making patterns
> > from finished garments. I have it at home, but WHERE at the moment is a darn
> > good question. If you try a search on, say, Amazon.com, you may be able to
> > find the information you need to hunt down ISBN and suchlike.
>

Our book _After a Fashion:  How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles_
gives step-by-step illustrated instructions for copying vintage garments without
taking them apart.  Details are on our web site:

Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm

Allan Terry



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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/16/1999 5:45:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
janicedals@mediaone.net writes:

<< Oh yes, It's very hard to find the grain on a twill or fine weave unless
 you have some sort of magnifying glass or 'scope.
  >>

Yes. I have pinned muslin to a dress keeping the grain the same and marking 
the seams....a piece at a time. One advantage of this is say, there's a dart 
that's been snipped to press open; you can get the grain matching on one 
side, then scoot the muslin up 'til the grain matches on the other side of 
the dart and, Voila!, you know how deep the dart was before it was clipped. 
It gets difficult with the sleeves [as was mentioned]. If you have a dummy 
and a sleeve board, that helps. Then I take measurements all over the place & 
see that they match up. Then clean it up...as mentioned. And, also as 
mentioned, sometimes you have to guess.
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

Oh...I forgot...
I was gonna say, if it's falling apart already....just take it apart and 
pattern it up.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 17:13:49 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: beads
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> At last! A question I know the answer to! *Happy Dance*

I'll have to try this way. It sounds a easier than the way I learned.

Simmer rose petals in rose water for about 30 minutes. Just tear the petals
up and throw them in the water. You'll need a lot; 2 cups does about enough
for one bracelet. After 30 minutes, turn off the heat and let it soak for 24
hours. Repeat the simmering for 3-4 days, adding rose water as needed. One
the last day, drain well and shape as Kate said. They shrink to about half
the size, so you'll want to make them big. They smell nice and the kids like
making them, but they are fairly ugly.

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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: beads
Message-Id: <942797120.6973.918@excite.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:05:20 PST
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

On Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:28:25 -0800, Heather wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
> 
> > At last! A question I know the answer to! *Happy Dance*
> 
> I'll have to try this way. It sounds a easier than the way I learned.
> 
> Simmer rose petals in rose water for about 30 minutes. Just tear the
petals
> up and throw them in the water. You'll need a lot; 2 cups does about
enough
> for one bracelet. After 30 minutes, turn off the heat and let it soak for
24
> hours. Repeat the simmering for 3-4 days, adding rose water as needed.
One
> the last day, drain well and shape as Kate said. They shrink to about
half
> the size, so you'll want to make them big. They smell nice and the kids
like
> making them, but they are fairly ugly.
> 

I have seen recipies for the manner you describe. As far as I can tell,
these are from Victorian times. According to the source I have, the manner
of cooking anything vegative was to boil the heck out of it. Not necessarily
the best (or only) way to do it, but it worked for them!

Kate
----
StitchWitch

In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 19:00:11 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Garter collar replica
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

A few months ago, someone on the list was looking for replica Garter
collars.  I just ran across a source for Garter and Golden Fleece collars at
http://www.signetring.com/Jewelry/Renaissance_Jewelry/garter_collar/garter_c
ollar.html

They aren't cheap, but they're gorgeous.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 20:01:20 1999
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-Poster: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>

Many thanks to all who helped, on and off list, with information on the
kinds of fabrics used in lining.  I guess I've imagined that when a
customer went shopping for dress material, she could count on finding
several bolts of material that were commonly used for lining, same as in
a fabric shop today.  Or common ones a dressmaker might keep in stock.
(I'm not considering remnants or scraps that were used.)  And since I've
seen very similar linings in gowns that were widely separate in years
(1830-80s) and places of origin, I assumed that there were a few that
were most popular.  The names I mentioned are the ones I've seen most
often in period fashion magazines or dressmaking guides, but I've felt
so helpless not knowing how to match the names with surviving garments.

I'm adding to my files the information you've so kindly helped me with.
Thank you!

Melissa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 20:11:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 18:25:25 -0800
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
References: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991116164615.2123K-100000@bigred.unl.edu> <3831E30E.79735626@best.com>
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-Poster: Little Bird <tuppence@ricochet.net>

May I de-lurk a moment?  There is also a book out called
_Making_Patterns_From_Finished_Clothes_, by Rusty Bensussen, published by Sterling
Publishing Co, Inc, New York, ISBN 0-8069-5704-2.

Thanks :)

> -Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
>
> >
> > > There is a book, which I belive is still in print, about making patterns
> > > from finished garments. I have it at home, but WHERE at the moment is a darn
> > > good question. If you try a search on, say, Amazon.com, you may be able to
> > > find the information you need to hunt down ISBN and suchlike.
> >
>
> Our book _After a Fashion:  How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles_
> gives step-by-step illustrated instructions for copying vintage garments without
> taking them apart.  Details are on our web site:
>
> Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
> http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
>
> Allan Terry
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: begging, please, lining question?
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 07:09 AM 11/16/99 -0500, jmhr@alltel.net wrote:
>
>-Poster: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>
>
>I don't mean to sound persistent to the point of irritation, but can
>ANYone help with this question?  Surely there are some on this list who
>have worked with museum collections or have studied this era and know
>something about these fabrics?  Please? Here goes again:
>
>Can anyone tell me the period name for a material I often see as a
>lining in women's and children's dresses, from the 19thC?  It looks like
>
>a coarse linen - or sometimes cotton - with a heavy glaze on it, often
>cracked with age, crackles almost like paper and the color varies from
>pale beige to a golden brown.  I've seen references to book (or buk)
>muslin, glazed calico, brown holland, victoria lawn, etc.  But what's
>what?
>
>Thank you!!!

One of the best (and my favorite) references to textile types that I have
found is "Textiles in America: 1650-1870" by Florence M. Montgomery,
published in 1984. ISBN 0-393-01703-6. Now out-of-print, but often available
in good libraries or via ILL. The subtitle tells it all: "A dictionary based
on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American
merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with
original swatches of cloth."

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 20:49:51 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 22:06:26 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Satin is not silk
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Thanks, Val.  I had to do that myself a few months ago.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 20:50:25 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 21:27:42 -0800
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

In grocery stores in Western Canada, they are going back to pounds and
ounces.  It's been going on for several years - the stores got tired of
hearing "OK, that's nice, but what is the cost per pound?".  Every sign I
see in the meat, vegetable and deli departments has the cost in pounds in
large print and kilograms in small print.  Many fabric stores advertise
their sales "per yard"!

I grew up with my earliest years of school being all "metricised" and high
schools trying their darnedest to see that we did everything in metric.
Didn't really work.  We have, at best, a hybrid system.

But that's OK, because 17 yards of black cotton velvet has more meaning to
me than 17 metres!

Zelda
-----Original Message-----
From: Carol J. Bell Cannon <cjcannon@greymists.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: November 14, 1999 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches


>
>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>I'm still unconverted.  I use a double-sided rule, one metric, one English
>for everything.  Carol
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 20:52:01 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: making ivory tulle white
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I still think you're courting disaster.
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: H-COST: making ivory tulle white
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I just realized that reply was not very helpful.  Could you, perhaps, put 
another layer of really white tulle either over, or in between, the existing 
tulle?  This might make it appear white enough.  I just think anything you 
try to whiten the veil, especially since it is already made up and would 
almost certainly need to be undone, would just not work and might ruin the 
whole thing.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 21:34:52 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: beads
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 21:55:13 -0600
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

From: Dogpatch USA Cookbook, Dogpatch Receipts, Superstitions of the Ozarks
and Hill Country Remedies.

"To make a string of rose beads place 1 3/4 cups flour, 4 tablespoons salt
in a bowl and add water, a little at a time to make a smooth dough. Press 3
cups finely chopped rose petals into the dough. Flour a bread board and
roll dough 1/4 inch thick. Cut with thimble. Roll each circle in palm of
hand to form a smooth bead. String on wire (thin) and hang finished strands
in dark place to dry. Move often to keep from sticking. Add a little food
coloring if more color is desired. Moonbeam likes glitter beads of gold
strung with her rose beads."

Rose beads will make those who wear them healthy and lucky.



Amanda

----------
> From: Heather <heather@herb-lore.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: beads
> Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 6:28 PM
> 
> -Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
> 
> > At last! A question I know the answer to! *Happy Dance*
> 
> I'll have to try this way. It sounds a easier than the way I learned.
> 
> Simmer rose petals in rose water for about 30 minutes. Just tear the
petals
> up and throw them in the water. You'll need a lot; 2 cups does about
enough
> for one bracelet. After 30 minutes, turn off the heat and let it soak for
24
> hours. Repeat the simmering for 3-4 days, adding rose water as needed.
One
> the last day, drain well and shape as Kate said. They shrink to about
half
> the size, so you'll want to make them big. They smell nice and the kids
like
> making them, but they are fairly ugly.
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 21:37:14 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: making ivory tulle white
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-Poster: "Alexandria Doyle" <dragonlair@wireweb.net>

What about making it another color, like a pale blue, or such? That
could be really pretty.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 21:50:52 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 18:42:02 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.10.9911161212060.5190-100000@fnord.io.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:14 PM 11/16/1999, <ches@io.com> wrote: I really do not know what is
behind the statement that he gave me about obscuring their tribal indentity.
           Like most groups who were different, the gypsies were mistrusted
and often mistreated, so they learned to disguise themselves when they went
amongst other folk, saving when they went en masse and played to the
audience in order to earn food, money/other necessities...according to the
one gypsy I met who was willing to talk a little bit about his folk. -- Carol 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 21:50:53 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 18:18:14 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tobacco and Other Beads
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

                While I can't think of why beads, unless to chew...and I
don't really want to think too much about that idea...my maternal grandma
from Arkansas used to put tobacco--particularly cigars--in the bureau
drawers to keep moths out.  -- Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 22:56:21 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 21:16:53 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

What I can't deal with is Celsius for temperature.... there is too big a gap
between 20 degrees C and 21 degrees C for my tiny mind to make sense of!
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
>Date: Sun, Nov 14, 1999, 9:27 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>In grocery stores in Western Canada, they are going back to pounds and
>ounces.  It's been going on for several years - the stores got tired of
>hearing "OK, that's nice, but what is the cost per pound?".  Every sign I
>see in the meat, vegetable and deli departments has the cost in pounds in
>large print and kilograms in small print.  Many fabric stores advertise
>their sales "per yard"!
>
>I grew up with my earliest years of school being all "metricised" and high
>schools trying their darnedest to see that we did everything in metric.
>Didn't really work.  We have, at best, a hybrid system.
>
>But that's OK, because 17 yards of black cotton velvet has more meaning to
>me than 17 metres!
>
>Zelda
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Carol J. Bell Cannon <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
>Date: November 14, 1999 8:25 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
>
>
>>
>>-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>>
>>I'm still unconverted.  I use a double-sided rule, one metric, one English
>>for everything.  Carol
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 16 23:02:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 23:16:48 -0600
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Copying garments
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

The other book I was thinking of is:

Patterns from Finished Clothes

Don't remember the author right off, but IIRC it's a skinny paperback.  It
deals more with modern clothes.

Sandy

>> > There is a book, which I belive is still in print, about making patterns
>> > from finished garments. I have it at home, but WHERE at the moment is
a darn
>> > good question. If you try a search on, say, Amazon.com, you may be
able to
>> > find the information you need to hunt down ISBN and suchlike.
>>
>
>Our book _After a Fashion:  How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage
Styles_
>gives step-by-step illustrated instructions for copying vintage garments
without
>taking them apart.  Details are on our web site:
>
>Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
>http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
>


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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

Several times in the past two years or so, the question of the use of silk
noil fabrics (modern name: raw silk) has come up. I found the following
reference in "Textiles in America: 1650-1870" on page 175:

"BOURETTE

"Silk dress and furnishing material in plain weave waith a rough, knotty
surface. The weft yarns were made from coarse outer fibers of cocoons which
were carded and spun rather than reeled. A swatch of _Bourette filoselle et
Fil_, waste silk and linen, is in the Richelieu Papers (see Pl. D-89)."

The caption on Pl. D-89 (which is in color) says that the bourette is on a
page dated 1736; the title of the page is "Etosses d' Avignon". The sample
is striped in two shades of red, green, white, bright yellow gold, and
brown(?). The center stripe looks like a warp-painted ikat with white ground
and brown pattern. The Richelieu Papers are in the Bibliotheque Nationale.

Has anyone found any other references to this type of fabric?

As always, trying to learn more,

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.654207d9.2563290e@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tobacco Beads
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 00:03:51 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


> In a message dated 11/16/99 12:10:22 PM Central Standard Time,
> Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com writes:
>
> <<
>  In regard to the 14 ft string of tobacco beads:  Do you suppose this may
be
>  a garland for a Christmas tree? >>
>
> Would that be something people would do?  It would be long enough and the
> ribbon was a reddish color.  I just wonder if the smell is strong.  I
wonder
> if this came from someone who owned a tobacco plantation.
> Kelly

Eeewww!  The heat from the candles or lights would set it off. Yuck! Or, it
just might burn...

Michelle

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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 10:59:12 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
In-reply-to: <199911162209.PAA00870@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> What is the easiest/best way to copy an existing vintage piece, short
> of taking the whole thing apart? 

I have a book that explains several (I think) methods of doing this.  
It's called "Making patterns from your favourite clothes"

I'm afraid that I can't supply any other details as my books are all 
in storage until the new sewing room is built (possibly by Easter, 
*if* I'm lucky) and we have enough space to turn the existing 
sewing room into a library.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 06:13:24 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

Hi,

This is a trick I learned from a friend.  I have a beautiful 1920s gown out 
of black silk velvet. By some chance it fits me like it was made for me.  It 
is a fairly delicate garment & great care needs to be taken when wearing it.  
I wanted one exactly like it out of a heavy silk so my friend helped me using 
this method.

Supplies:
Tissue Paper
Silk dress pins
butcher paper
tracing wheel 
comforter or big towel

Okay, lay out your comforter or towel.  Make sure it is nice & flat.  Next 
lay out your tissue paper.  You want it to be large enough to fit under the 
entire piece you are copying. Secure it to the towel or blanket.  Place the 
gown upon the tissue paper.
Using a superfine silk pin, poke through to the tissue following the pattern 
piece.
When you are done, place the tissue on butcher paper (or whatever you pattern 
out on} & copy using the tracing wheel to follow the fine pin marks.  You may 
want to use colored tissue paper so that the white of the pattern paper 
shines through.  It makes it easier on the eyes.  I would do a test on the 
hem or some other discreet place on the garment to make sure it is hardy 
enough for the silk pin.  If you are copying a garment made of silk chiffon 
or silk gauze, I would be super cautious.

Hope this helps
Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 08:33:27 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 09:49:38 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Isobel Fonseca emphasizes the differences between gypsies in different countries. This likely explains why two people who have carefully researched gypsy dress come up with different answers.  She says that the most overwhelming characteristic they share is the tendency to obscure their origins, not to admit where they were yesterday, to remember only what the oldest member of their group can recall.  There is no epic oral tradition. She says it is the definitive thing about being a gypsy.  Definitely a protective mechanism, but there may be more to it than that.

Hope
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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> Oh...I forgot...
> I was gonna say, if it's falling apart already....just take it apart and 
> pattern it up.

Well, "falling apart" was a bad choice of words.  It is tearing severely
around the neckline, where the fabric is too fragile to bear the weight of
the dress. Most of the rest of the dress is in good condition, and the
preservationist in me won't let me take it apart.

emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 09:12:32 1999
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>

>> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com 
>> Oh...I forgot...
>> I was gonna say, if it's falling apart already....just take it apart and 
>> pattern it up.

>-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
>Most of the rest of the dress is in good condition, and the
>preservationist in me won't let me take it apart.

     I also agree that taking a vintage dress apart is not the best 
approach. There may be construction details that could not be determined 
after the dress is taken apart. Is there any hand stitching? What type of 
stitch is used? If the dress is not particularly rare, another example 
may be available (perhaps already in one's own closet!) to see these 
details.

     When copying a garment, I hope these things are considered before 
taking it apart!

     Several of the techniques mentioned on the list for copying garments 
sound great! Here's a question, though - something that is bias cut will 
have stretched along the bias already. The pieces will appear to be 
longer and narrower than the dress was originally cut. Other things are 
made of woodgy fabric - something that drapes nicely but is not tightly 
woven so the yarns in the fabric move. The sections can move around so 
that it's hard to tell if a line is straight or a curve.

     Any suggestions with handling these problems?

     -Carol
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/17/1999 10:13:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
00217146@bigred.unl.edu writes:

<< 
 Well, "falling apart" was a bad choice of words.  It is tearing severely
 around the neckline, where the fabric is too fragile to bear the weight of
 the dress. Most of the rest of the dress is in good condition, and the
 preservationist in me won't let me take it apart.
  >>

My roommate was like this. I say to you what I use to say to him:

"When you get around to reweaving the neckline....let me know."

I understand of course. He use to collect vintage and had a box full of 20s 
gowns that were now only shredded pieces of silk chiffon incredibly beaded in 
the most fantastic deco patterns. So very beautiful.... and so very 
unwearable or unsavable. Still, we'd take 'em out and just look at them 
sometimes. I wanted to make "art" out of them....glue the beaded scraps flat 
to a board [many were unrecognizable as having been dresses] in a pleasing 
arrangement and hang it on the wall.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 09:41:23 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Where to buy silk stockings?
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Dear list,

I know this question was asked and answered some time ago on here, but can
anyone refresh my memory--is there a place where one can buy silk
stockings through mailorder, preferably the sheer "pantyhose" weight
stockings?

Thanks,

Drea


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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
>
>     Please advise me of reliable sources that are currently available
>(ILL, Internet, museums, etc.) in English that can answer the following
>questions:

I don't know how much cloisonne is in this book, but a friend who is 
an excellent scholar recommends this title for early enamels:

Enamels of Limoges: 1100-1350
Metropolitan Museum of Art, John P. O'Neill Editor in Chief.
published by Harry N. Abrams, New York, 1996.
ISBN #0-87099-759-9 (paperback)

Lilinah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 11:27:02 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 09:48:15 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Noil is a specail type of silk - not necesarily *raw silk* at all.  Noil sik
is made from short lengths that have been spun.  You can make it from wild
silk - as the do in Orissa, India - or from China silk , or whatever.  Noil
Silk *blankets* are the rage in Europe these days.  I got one when I was in
Orissa last winter.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
>Date: Tue, Nov 16, 1999, 9:39 PM
>

>
>-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
>
>Several times in the past two years or so, the question of the use of silk
>noil fabrics (modern name: raw silk) has come up. I found the following
>reference in "Textiles in America: 1650-1870" on page 175:
>
>"BOURETTE
>
>"Silk dress and furnishing material in plain weave waith a rough, knotty
>surface. The weft yarns were made from coarse outer fibers of cocoons which
>were carded and spun rather than reeled. A swatch of _Bourette filoselle et
>Fil_, waste silk and linen, is in the Richelieu Papers (see Pl. D-89)."
>
>The caption on Pl. D-89 (which is in color) says that the bourette is on a
>page dated 1736; the title of the page is "Etosses d' Avignon". The sample
>is striped in two shades of red, green, white, bright yellow gold, and
>brown(?). The center stripe looks like a warp-painted ikat with white
ground
>and brown pattern. The Richelieu Papers are in the Bibliotheque Nationale.
>
>Has anyone found any other references to this type of fabric?
>
>As always, trying to learn more,
>
>Joan Jurancich
>Sacramento, CA
>joanj@quiknet.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 11:33:35 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 23:49:01 -0600
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

Having spent the better part of a week looking at archaeological
debris with a gentleman who refused to use metric for anything, and I
*prefer*
using metric for tiny measurements, I can easily understand the Mars
orbiter problem :)

Since Metric predates Communists by some years, I can't rightly see
how it's a Communist plot though...  Here I thought it was an attempt
to resolve all the different French units at the time of the
Revolution into one single coherent and consistant whole (Trade is
trickier when different regions have utterly different standards for
the "same" weights and measures).

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 11:41:50 1999
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From: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

> The other book I was thinking of is:
> Patterns from Finished Clothes
> Don't remember the author right off, but IIRC it's a skinny paperback.  It
> deals more with modern clothes.

Could this be the one? I saw it in the latest Hamilton Book catalog.

PATTERNS FROM FINISHED CLOTHES: Re-Creating the Clothes You Love. By Tracy
Doyle. Current Item #56673X Pub at $14.95 - Our Price $10.46

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 13:06:55 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Where to buy silk stockings?
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

The only place I have been able to find lately is WinterSilks, and they are 
not sheer.
(Victoria's Secret used to carry them but evidently no longer does.)  You can 
try an Internet search and wade through all the soft porn sites you'll get 
and you may find one or two places that have real silk stockings, not simply 
"silky" ones.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 13:08:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 11:27:25 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Copying existing garments?
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Here's a question, though - something that is bias cut will 
>have stretched along the bias already. The pieces will appear to be 
>longer and narrower than the dress was originally cut. Other things are 
>made of woodgy fabric - something that drapes nicely but is not tightly 
>woven so the yarns in the fabric move. The sections can move around so 
>that it's hard to tell if a line is straight or a curve.
>
>     Any suggestions with handling these problems?

Look at the threads, take lots of angle and length measurements, and
reconstruct the pattern on graph paper from the measurements?  Sounds like
a co-ordinate geometry problem to me, with screwy co-ordinates which might
have to be straightened out by hand first, gently.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 15:06:36 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Carol,
Concerning distortions on bias cut dresses: If you baste a line of
thread beside one of the original threads, you can see where the
original grain line was.  Do the same on the perpendicular and start
pinning down to paper.  There are special brass pins sold for use on
vintage fabrics, though I don't know where now.  Someone who sells acid
free tissue and boxes might know.  I got mine through F.I.T.'s school
store in NY city when I was there for a special course on copying
vintage costume.
-- 
Janice Dallas
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 15:06:38 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Ell Measurement
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Well, Janet Arnold would have disagreed with you.  She dwells on this issue in Patterns of Fashion, and while it varied by time and place, the ell was as much as 47 inches (Renaissance Spain). 
Hope
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 13:38:14 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

R.L. wrote:

> What I can't deal with is Celsius for temperature.... there is too big a
> gap between 20 degrees C and 21 degrees C for my tiny mind to make sense of!

Beg your pardon? The difference between 20 degrees C and 21 degrees C is the
same as that between 68 degrees F and 69.8 degrees F. That's not a very big gap.

The problem is when the temp. is 20 C today and will be 30 C tomorrow. A ten
degree jump in Fahrenheit is pretty small, but in Celsius it's much larger.
(The confusion for me lies in the fact that room temperature is 25 C and 77 F.
It's hard to get past the 50 degrees in between.)

I've done enough chemistry, engineering, and physics that I'm comfortable
working in either, but converting back and forth is still difficult for me.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Amazon Dry Goods
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 17:22:16 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Does anyone know the url for Amazon Dry Goods?  I would really appreciate
it.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 16:29:55 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 17:44:59 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Amazon Dry Goods
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-Poster: DRGurley@aol.com

Penny,
try  www.amazondrygoods.com
it comes right up for me.

DaniG
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 16:30:19 1999
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

While I haven't studied the subject extensively, I learned while doing
enameling that Cloisonne is a very specific technique: separate wires are
used to make cells or lines into which the enamels are applied, then fired.

While enamels go back a long way- I've seen some lovely early Celtic work-
many of them look to me more like champleve, where the metal is carved to
make the cells into which enamel is placed. A modern short-cut can be to
have castings made complete with the cells, saving the carving time; I
don't know whether that was done in period.

The metal can also be repouseed, or formed decoratively via hammering, then
enamleled; I don't think there's a specific name for this.

And, of course, all these techniques can be combined into one piece! -which
is usually called "cloisonne".

So it would be important to determine how strictly one wanted to define
cloisonne while doing the research.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 16:42:34 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: H-COST: Historic Diana dress doesn't sell
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

Some list members may remember a brief discussion of the Princess of Wales' 
only foray into historic costume: a pink dress, c. 1890, which she wore to 
Edmonton's Klondike Days and Fort Edmonton Park in 1983.

Well, I just read in the Edmonton Journal that London designer John Bright 
had the dress and matching hat returned to him after the visit. It was 
recently put up for auction in New York, with proceeds to benefit a British 
charity. Nobody bought it, despite the fact that the dress was heavily 
promoted. Anybody who has a spare $12,000-$18,000 (the expected auction 
price) should grab their chance now! 

Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 16:54:54 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.c87a5b0.256489eb@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Amazon Dry Goods
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Thanks!!!

> 
> -Poster: DRGurley@aol.com
> 
> Penny,
> try  www.amazondrygoods.com
> it comes right up for me.
> 
> DaniG
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 17:39:08 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Nordstrom Cleaner
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-Poster: MMoore@mbs.ednet.ns.ca

Sorry to rehash an old topic but somewhere in the past a silk or stain (?)
cleaner from Nordstroms was highly recommended and I have a family member
making a trek to the US who would be willing to pick some up. Anyone
remember the product name?  Any advice cheerfully received. Mark


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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 18:42:11 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 16:55:28 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nordstrom Cleaner
From: Agnes Gawne <costume11@hotmail.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Message-ID: <B4588E80.9CE%costume11@hotmail.com>
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-Poster: Agnes Gawne <costume11@hotmail.com>

Nordstrom's lingerie cleaner is just a product called "Zout" that has been
re-packaged ad priced up for Nordstrom.  Except when Nordstrom is having a
sale it's cheaper for me to get it at my local fabric store, Nancy's Sewing
Basket. 

Agnes Gawne
Seattle, Washington

> From: MMoore@mbs.ednet.ns.ca
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 21:04:27 -0500
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Nordstrom Cleaner
> 
> 
> -Poster: MMoore@mbs.ednet.ns.ca
> 
> Sorry to rehash an old topic but somewhere in the past a silk or stain (?)
> cleaner from Nordstroms was highly recommended and I have a family member
> making a trek to the US who would be willing to pick some up. Anyone
> remember the product name?  Any advice cheerfully received. Mark
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 19:11:03 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 20:23:43 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nordstrom Cleaner
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Local grocery stores (in the Ventura,California) area also carry it.
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 20:24:05 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 21:36:32 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Joan,

Great reference as Montgomery's _Textile in America_ is the "bible". However, 
her emphasis is on household and furnishing textiles. I've found differences 
when looking at textiles for clothes of the 18th century. We need a book that 
focuses on clothing textiles of the same caliber as Montgomery.

Sally Queen

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 20:55:51 1999
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Message-ID: <38336C64.AB9AA6E6@home.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 19:03:00 -0800
From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Amazon Dry Goods
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



Penny Ladnier wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> 
> Does anyone know the url for Amazon Dry Goods?  I would really appreciate
> it.
> 
> Later... Penny
> http://www.costumegallery.com
> 


http://www.victoriana.com/amazon/

Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 21:32:35 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:36 PM 11/17/99 EST, SAQUEEN@aol.com wrote:
>
>-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com
>
>Joan,
>
>Great reference as Montgomery's _Textile in America_ is the "bible". However, 
>her emphasis is on household and furnishing textiles. I've found differences 
>when looking at textiles for clothes of the 18th century. We need a book that 
>focuses on clothing textiles of the same caliber as Montgomery.
>
>Sally Queen
>

Sally,

It's true that Montgomery's emphasis is on furnishing textiles and I would
love a similarly-researched dictionary on clothing textiles. But many of her
definitions relate to clothing uses. Including the one I posted on Bourette.

Do we have anyone on this list (or anyone someone knows) who is looking for
a new book subject? A reference book on clothing textiles would have a good
market just from this list <g>.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

Rob,

To a spinner like myself, a "noil" is merely an annoying short bit of fiber
that tends to make your thread look messy <VBG>. And a noil can occur in
*any* fiber, wool, cotton, silk, etc. Here is another situation where the
technical term from one craft (i.e., spinning) gets used in a related, but
different, craft (i.e., weaving), and then gets divorced from its original
meaning--silk noil, originally a short bit of fiber, comes to mean a fabric
woven from silk threads that are full of noils. True "raw silk" is simply
silk with the natural sericin residues from the cocoon still on it; it is
often used to refer to Tussah silk, which is from a non-domesticated species
of silk moth, but it applies to any silk with the sericin still on it.
Because the Tussah silk cocoons are harvested after the moth emerges, the
simplest way to make usable fiber is to card and spin the broken cocoons.
This silk is coarser than that from the domesticated Bombyx. I have seen
*both* Tussah silk and silk noil cloths labeled as "raw silk" in fabric stores.

I'll hop down from my soapbox now <g>...

But I am still interested in any other primary references anyone might come
across refering to a nubby-surfaced silk fabric. As of now, the earliest I
am aware of is 1736, and you can't get a better primary source than a piece
of the stuff. 

Still looking,

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

At 09:48 AM 11/17/99 -0800, R.L. Shep wrote:
>
>Noil is a specail type of silk - not necesarily *raw silk* at all.  Noil sik
>is made from short lengths that have been spun.  You can make it from wild
>silk - as the do in Orissa, India - or from China silk , or whatever.  Noil
>Silk *blankets* are the rage in Europe these days.  I got one when I was in
>Orissa last winter.
>~!~ R.L.Shep
>http://www.rlshep.com
>
>----------
>>From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
>>To: h-costume@indra.com
>>Subject: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
>>Date: Tue, Nov 16, 1999, 9:39 PM
>>
>>Several times in the past two years or so, the question of the use of silk
>>noil fabrics (modern name: raw silk) has come up. I found the following
>>reference in "Textiles in America: 1650-1870" on page 175:
>>
>>"BOURETTE
>>
>>"Silk dress and furnishing material in plain weave waith a rough, knotty
>>surface. The weft yarns were made from coarse outer fibers of cocoons which
>>were carded and spun rather than reeled. A swatch of _Bourette filoselle et
>>Fil_, waste silk and linen, is in the Richelieu Papers (see Pl. D-89)."
>>
>>The caption on Pl. D-89 (which is in color) says that the bourette is on a
>>page dated 1736; the title of the page is "Etosses d' Avignon". The sample
>>is striped in two shades of red, green, white, bright yellow gold, and
>>brown(?). The center stripe looks like a warp-painted ikat with white
>ground
>>and brown pattern. The Richelieu Papers are in the Bibliotheque Nationale.
>>
>>Has anyone found any other references to this type of fabric?
>>
>>As always, trying to learn more,
>>
>>Joan Jurancich
>>Sacramento, CA
>>joanj@quiknet.com
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

Rob,

To a spinner like myself, a "noil" is merely an annoying short bit of fiber
that tends to make your thread look messy <VBG>. And a noil can occur in
*any* fiber, wool, cotton, silk, etc. Here is another situation where the
technical term from one craft (i.e., spinning) gets used in a related, but
different, craft (i.e., weaving), and then gets divorced from its original
meaning--silk noil, originally a short bit of fiber, comes to mean a fabric
woven from silk threads that are full of noils. True "raw silk" is simply
silk with the natural sericin residues from the cocoon still on it; it is
often used to refer to Tussah silk, which is from a non-domesticated species
of silk moth, but it applies to any silk with the sericin still on it.
Because the Tussah silk cocoons are harvested after the moth emerges, the
simplest way to make usable fiber is to card and spin the broken cocoons.
This silk is coarser than that from the domesticated Bombyx. I have seen
*both* Tussah silk and silk noil cloths labeled as "raw silk" in fabric stores.

I'll hop down from my soapbox now <g>...

But I am still interested in any other primary references anyone might come
across refering to a nubby-surfaced silk fabric. As of now, the earliest I
am aware of is 1736, and you can't get a better primary source than a piece
of the stuff. 

Still looking,

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

At 09:48 AM 11/17/99 -0800, R.L. Shep wrote:
>
>Noil is a specail type of silk - not necesarily *raw silk* at all.  Noil sik
>is made from short lengths that have been spun.  You can make it from wild
>silk - as the do in Orissa, India - or from China silk , or whatever.  Noil
>Silk *blankets* are the rage in Europe these days.  I got one when I was in
>Orissa last winter.
>~!~ R.L.Shep
>http://www.rlshep.com
>
>----------
>>From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
>>To: h-costume@indra.com
>>Subject: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
>>Date: Tue, Nov 16, 1999, 9:39 PM
>>
>>Several times in the past two years or so, the question of the use of silk
>>noil fabrics (modern name: raw silk) has come up. I found the following
>>reference in "Textiles in America: 1650-1870" on page 175:
>>
>>"BOURETTE
>>
>>"Silk dress and furnishing material in plain weave waith a rough, knotty
>>surface. The weft yarns were made from coarse outer fibers of cocoons which
>>were carded and spun rather than reeled. A swatch of _Bourette filoselle et
>>Fil_, waste silk and linen, is in the Richelieu Papers (see Pl. D-89)."
>>
>>The caption on Pl. D-89 (which is in color) says that the bourette is on a
>>page dated 1736; the title of the page is "Etosses d' Avignon". The sample
>>is striped in two shades of red, green, white, bright yellow gold, and
>>brown(?). The center stripe looks like a warp-painted ikat with white
>ground
>>and brown pattern. The Richelieu Papers are in the Bibliotheque Nationale.
>>
>>Has anyone found any other references to this type of fabric?
>>
>>As always, trying to learn more,
>>
>>Joan Jurancich
>>Sacramento, CA
>>joanj@quiknet.com
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 22:13:31 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 20:24:44 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Amazon Dry Goods
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 05:22 PM 11/17/1999,  "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
asked ... the url for Amazon Dry Goods? 
                It is:      http://www.amazondrygoods.com/               
  Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 17 23:35:06 1999
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From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <v01530505b458c666b08f@[142.227.148.14]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nordstrom Cleaner
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 22:47:09 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

There's also a cleaner I've used available at quilting stores. I can't
remember the name, but it was originally designed to clean cow utters with
so its really delicate.

> Sorry to rehash an old topic but somewhere in the past a silk or stain (?)
> cleaner from Nordstroms was highly recommended and I have a family member
> making a trek to the US who would be willing to pick some up. Anyone
> remember the product name?  Any advice cheerfully received. Mark
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 18 00:21:10 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.752fbff3.2564755f@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ell Measurement
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 22:51:48 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>





>
> -Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com
>
> Well, Janet Arnold would have disagreed with you.  She dwells on this
issue in Patterns of Fashion, and while it varied by time and place, the ell
was as much as 47 inches (Renaissance Spain).
> Hope

I think the original poster wanted to know so that he or she could enlarge
the layouts in the Alcega's book.   No matter how many different varients,
that book is set up for 84 cm.
      So,  in answer to the original question...for Alcega's, an ell is 84
cm. There is a table in the book that divides it up and down, from fractions
to cm.

Michelle

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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <E11oJBa-0001zN-00@mongoose.slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Amazon Dry Goods
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 08:13:27 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Thanks you for the URL.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

----- Original Message -----
From: Carol J. Bell Cannon <cjcannon@greymists.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Amazon Dry Goods


>
> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
> At 05:22 PM 11/17/1999,  "Penny Ladnier"
<penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> asked ... the url for Amazon Dry Goods?
>                 It is:      http://www.amazondrygoods.com/
>   Carol
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 18 10:49:20 1999
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 12:01:53 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nordstrom Cleaner
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

The animal cleaner you reference is Orvus Paste by Proctor and Gamble.  It is available in gallons from major animal supply stores.  It is used by museum conservators for fabrics, and is sold in smaller bottles in quilt stores under a different name.  A little goes a long way.  No fragrances or dyes, so its great for people with sensitive skin for everyday wash.  I get mine from the pet feed store which needs a day or two to order it in. It cleans well, despite being gentle.

Hope


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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.5724fb2e.25658b01@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nordstrom Cleaner
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

Thanks, Hope.

----- Original Message -----
From: <Hhdunlap@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 1999 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nordstrom Cleaner


>
> -Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com
>
> The animal cleaner you reference is Orvus Paste by Proctor and Gamble.  It
is available in gallons from major animal supply stores.  It is used by
museum conservators for fabrics, and is sold in smaller bottles in quilt
stores under a different name.  A little goes a long way.  No fragrances or
dyes, so its great for people with sensitive skin for everyday wash.  I get
mine from the pet feed store which needs a day or two to order it in. It
cleans well, despite being gentle.
>
> Hope
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 18 13:05:38 1999
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 11:25:37 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I am afraid that my understanding of this subject and yours differ.
Chinese silk is Bombyx mori and the worm feeds on mulberry leaves.  This is
what we mostly know here.  And it is produced in many countries other than
China at this point in time.
*Raw Silk* is undegummed fliaments of B. mori - Chinese silk - this can
either be in filament form or spun in the form of *noil*.
*Tasar, or Tussah*, *Eri or endi*, and *Muga or Mugah* silk are all *wild*
silk.  They are produced by a diferent worm and it does not feed on mulberry
leaves.  All three of these originally were wild in the jungles of India but
now they are being domesticated.   I have seen both Tussah and Mugah being
raised and have examples of both.  These silks are all brown to golden in
color, not the color of Chinese silk. Fo example Tussah is a brownish tan,
and Mugah is known as golden silk. The reason has to do with the form of the
filament, in Wild Silk they are flat and are not easy to degum.  Chinese
silk has a more round filament and can be degummed.
*Noil* can be and is spun from either Chinese silk or wild silk, or raw
silk. It is the process that is important.
Also the whole question of silk that comes from cocoons where the worm has
eaten its way out has to do mainly with the fact that in some Bhuddhist
countries - like Bhutan - they will not boil the cocoon to kill the worm. 
Therefore the worm is allow to eat its way out and they cannot get a long
continuous filament from the cocoon.
Sorry to be so pedantic about it, but it can be a very confusing subject.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com, h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
>Date: Wed, Nov 17, 1999, 8:08 PM
>

>
>-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
>
>Rob,
>
>To a spinner like myself, a "noil" is merely an annoying short bit of fiber
>that tends to make your thread look messy <VBG>. And a noil can occur in
>*any* fiber, wool, cotton, silk, etc. Here is another situation where the
>technical term from one craft (i.e., spinning) gets used in a related, but
>different, craft (i.e., weaving), and then gets divorced from its original
>meaning--silk noil, originally a short bit of fiber, comes to mean a fabric
>woven from silk threads that are full of noils. True "raw silk" is simply
>silk with the natural sericin residues from the cocoon still on it; it is
>often used to refer to Tussah silk, which is from a non-domesticated
species
>of silk moth, but it applies to any silk with the sericin still on it.
>Because the Tussah silk cocoons are harvested after the moth emerges, the
>simplest way to make usable fiber is to card and spin the broken cocoons.
>This silk is coarser than that from the domesticated Bombyx. I have seen
>*both* Tussah silk and silk noil cloths labeled as "raw silk" in fabric
stores.
>
>I'll hop down from my soapbox now <g>...
>
>But I am still interested in any other primary references anyone might come
>across refering to a nubby-surfaced silk fabric. As of now, the earliest I
>am aware of is 1736, and you can't get a better primary source than a piece
>of the stuff. 
>
>Still looking,
>
>Joan Jurancich
>Sacramento, CA
>
>At 09:48 AM 11/17/99 -0800, R.L. Shep wrote:
>>
>>Noil is a specail type of silk - not necesarily *raw silk* at all.  Noil
sik
>>is made from short lengths that have been spun.  You can make it from wild
>>silk - as the do in Orissa, India - or from China silk , or whatever. 
Noil
>>Silk *blankets* are the rage in Europe these days.  I got one when I was
in
>>Orissa last winter.
>>~!~ R.L.Shep
>>http://www.rlshep.com
>>
>>----------
>>>From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
>>>To: h-costume@indra.com
>>>Subject: H-COST: Silk noil fabric
>>>Date: Tue, Nov 16, 1999, 9:39 PM
>>>
>>>Several times in the past two years or so, the question of the use of
silk
>>>noil fabrics (modern name: raw silk) has come up. I found the following
>>>reference in "Textiles in America: 1650-1870" on page 175:
>>>
>>>"BOURETTE
>>>
>>>"Silk dress and furnishing material in plain weave waith a rough, knotty
>>>surface. The weft yarns were made from coarse outer fibers of cocoons
which
>>>were carded and spun rather than reeled. A swatch of _Bourette filoselle
et
>>>Fil_, waste silk and linen, is in the Richelieu Papers (see Pl. D-89)."
>>>
>>>The caption on Pl. D-89 (which is in color) says that the bourette is on
a
>>>page dated 1736; the title of the page is "Etosses d' Avignon". The
sample
>>>is striped in two shades of red, green, white, bright yellow gold, and
>>>brown(?). The center stripe looks like a warp-painted ikat with white
>>ground
>>>and brown pattern. The Richelieu Papers are in the Bibliotheque
Nationale.
>>>
>>>Has anyone found any other references to this type of fabric?
>>>
>>>As always, trying to learn more,
>>>
>>>Joan Jurancich
>>>Sacramento, CA
>>>joanj@quiknet.com
>>>
>>> _________________________________________________________________
>>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________
>> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 18 13:18:46 1999
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 20:30:57 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Dear all!
I have a question about a matter i often have wondered.
I am making 3 pairs of stays. They are in different sizes to fit thre
different ladies.
The tracing of the pocketholes for the bones is going to be as precisely
as possible and i am using tracingpaper to do this tedious work cause my
stays is made in cotton muslin and they are not going to be seen by the
dress over it.
How are you making this proses, what do you do, perhaps there was a
better way to do it.
All replyes will be most apreciated.
Bjarne Drews in Copenhagen.

--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 15:21:16 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: inches
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>But that's OK, because 17 yards of black cotton velvet has more meaning to
>me than 17 metres!

ahh... but if they were the same price, which would you prefer? Meters, of
course *grin*
That 3" makes a big difference when you're purchasing more then 4 metres of
fabric!

Kris

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References: <199911120015.SAA22583@cdale3.midwest.net> <v04210104b456462810b7@[208.225.99.166]>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Byzantine Enamels book 
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 15:32:17 -0800
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-Poster: "Sidne Kneeland" <skskaw@worldaccessnet.com>

Greetings all,

Sorry I'm late to join in on this thread.  I'm catching up on my email.
Check out this site for Bibliofind, Rare Books:
    http://www.bibliofind.com/
Bibliofind has nine copies of the Klaus Wessel book listed, prices ranging
from $59 to $125.

> re: information on cloisonné enamels.
>
> Wessel, Klaus.  _Byzantine Enamels from the 5th to the 13th century_,
..(snip)...
> i have not actually seen this book, just read some references to it,...


Sidne Kneeland
- o - o - o - o - o - o - o - o - o - o - o - o - o -
(Psychotherapy is expensive, bubble wrap is cheap.  You choose)

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From: Carol Mitchell <listcost@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: silk stockings
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-Poster: Carol Mitchell <listcost@yahoo.com>


This topic comes up about once a year. I've done the
sifting through thousands of porn sites bit. I got
about 4 that actually talked about the stockings, but
all the links turned out to be dead. I asked at one
site that used to carry them and was told they simply
didn't sell well enough to be worthwhile. I've noticed
the last few years that even in Hong Kong you can
rarely find real silk any more-they try to pretend the
junk they're selling is better. I think the only way
we'll ever get new silk stockings is if someone
decides to go into making them in a small way-and then
they'll cost even more than the $25 a pair they used
to cost.
Carol Mitchell

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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-Poster: Broom <Broom@prodigy.net>

There's a shop in London where I got a coupla pair, sheer smoke... I'm
racking my brains now...  Agent Provocateur!

They have a website, but it's a real bitch to navigate (*very*
bandwidth-intensive, Javascript only), and too artsy to figure out
easily. Try the 9 of Clubs or 10 of Clubs cards in the shop index.

The price was $20L ($35).
-- 
  |   Broom                  Broom@prodigy.net
  |   937-222-2330 233 Perrine St Dayton (1 of my fayre citees) OH 45410
 \|/  309-685-1532 1501 E Gardner Ln #1624 Peoria Hts (thother) IL 61614
 /|\  Ministerium honor est, which means:  
//|\\ "A letter doesn't blush."
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Uniquely You Dress Form
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 22:22:05 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>


Does anyone know if there is a web site for the uniquely you dress form?  I
just tried to order one from JoAnn's (killer sale, only $99.00!!!) but I
just got a call from the store saying the sizing of the forms had changed
and the old method (the one on Farthingale's web site) no longer applies.  I
am trying to get info on the current sizing method as email is faster than
waiting for the store to call me back next week. Any takers?

-Megan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 18 21:17:32 1999
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From: "Cathy Harding" <charding@nwlink.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Questions_on_enamel_&_cloisonn=E9?=
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 19:44:38 -0800
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-Poster: "Cathy Harding" <charding@nwlink.com>

I deleted the original question on Cloisonné so I will do a brain dump on
numerous conversations with Mistress Fjorlief (Alison Fine)and Master
William (Bill Dawson)of the SCA Kingdom of An Tir (Washington state) about
glass on metal in period and earlier.  Neither of these folks are on this
list but I will ask them to make more comments if anyone wants them.  (my
area of interest is glassware) Sorry no actual sources were cited in this
email, my brain is too tired to go look for them, but we can come up with
them....  They both do a lot of research in period techniques and apply them
to their work. I have listed some links to examples of cloisonné and other
enamels at the bottom of this email.

Glass on metal is very old, appears to have developed in the area now called
Cyprus in the middle bronze age.  Like a lot of glass associated objects of
the time, the artisans used techniques they were familiar with from stone
and metal working, like inlay. So the early examples are pieces of glass cut
to shape and inlayed in metal channels on bowls, jewelry, etc.  Somewhere in
this early period it was found that fusing the chunks of glass inside a
built metal framework and then doing the grinding and polishing was faster.
The glass was fused on copper and bronze.  The bent wires of cloisonné come
later.  Often the designs were abstract and geometric shapes.

The height of this art form was in Byzantium.  There are a lot of extant
enameled objects from this time period, because they massed produced them.
There starts to be details, people, faces and attributes (can't tell a saint
with out his or her attribute, and square and round halos to help
distinguish who is who.) They were produced in large work shops with each
task done by different people or groups.  The wires were bent on jigs,
groups fused the wires to the metal, packed the glass (some where in here
they started to use finely ground glass instead of chunks) and fired it.
still another group ground and polished it.  The metal here is very often
gold. Bill's comment was that the state of the art has "gone down hill a
bit" in the last 1500 years. This is the cloisonné form, wires bent and
fused on glass on metal to make cells to hold glass and the glass is melted
in many many thin layers in the cells and then ground and polished.

Champleve is from a later period in Europe (France) and is thought to be
European artisans imitating the Byzantine works. The cells were carved in
thick pieces of metal or cast and the glass fused into these cells.  The
glass industry of this time in Europe was pretty primitive in the sense of
color and chemistry, they were making some pretty interesting glassware
though' (that's another story.....) The glass here was of a lesser quality
and often the various colors were not very compatible, chemically. They were
getting colored frit (which is basically glass scrape) from middle eastern
glassworks and using that as the coloring agents.  The metal used was often
gold plated copper as actual gold was scare,  this was one of those times
when the currency was debased.

There are also glass on glass examples, glassware, beakers, pitchers and
other vessels.  The glass was blown or mold produced and then more glass was
painted or inlayed and fused on the vessel.  This didn't really take off in
Europe and most of the examples found are in the middle east, Persia and
Arabia.


Here are some examples of glass on metal work with some commentary, I am
using Bill's site as I am very familiar with these items, I scanned many of
them for the site.  I don't actually own any of these things or make them,
but I would like too.....

http://billdawsonmetalsmith.com/hware.html Heraldic cloisonné on a beaker
and mazers
http://billdawsonmetalsmith.com/ones.html  There are examples of both
Champleve and cloisonné.
http://billdawsonmetalsmith.com/Stock.html The dragonesque pin is a copy of
a migration period pin where the cells created by casting them in the metal.
http://billdawsonmetalsmith.com/othercus.html  Some other enamels where much
of the design is in the metal underneath the glass.

Cathy Harding
Maeve d'Maas in the SCA
(A newsletter editor in search of a successor!)
Seattle, WA







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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 18 22:18:51 1999
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From: "Ches, a mommy of two, wife of one" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.a520fa52.256041fe@aol.com> <004301bf2ed5$c1097f00$05e6f1c3@henk> <00a001bf2f4f$a9fc4f70$ac350418@C59303A> <000901bf305d$5d2104c0$59cdf1c3@henk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 10:30:41 -0600
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-Poster: "Ches, a mommy of two, wife of one" <ches@io.com>


Here they are with their emails. My macedonian friends however is very
secretive and will not discuss anything with anyone not of the brotherhood.

He speaks to me because I resemble a member of his family. I have no
macedonian in me, just italian peasant farmers who migrated to Texas to
remain farmers all their lives....except me....I got to go to college! :)

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lilinah biti-Anat" <lilinah@GRIN.NET>
To: <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 12:23 PM
Subject: Gypsies (was gwazhees)Now, i realize it's difficult to find much
information on Gypsy
clothing within period. The few comments i've seen from "SCA period"
indicate that they often wore cast-off clothing of the people through
whose country they were travelling. But no crop tops, tiered skirts,
brightly colored triangular head scarves, Flamenco dresses, etc. on
the women, and no open throated white shirts with neck scarves, black
vests, high heeled boots, and those flat crowned hats worn by
Flamenco dancers and The Man With No Name in "A Fist Full of Dollars"
etc. on men. Not before 1600 :-)

Before reaching Europe in the 1400's, the Gypsies had spent several
centuries in Persia - in fact they had been brought there by the
Persian government - and they were from several different regions of
what is now India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and other parts of Central
Asia - they did not represent one particular ethnic or linguistic
group. Because of the different ethnic and cultural groups they were
from, they are unlikely to have arrived with a single distinctive
costume, other than to adapt what the Persians wore.

After they left Persia, they spent about another 75 years or so in
what is now Turkey and a little bit of Eastern Europe, where i assume
they would have picked up some additional garb elements.

But once they reached Europe they spread rapidly, covering the entire
continent within less than 100 years. But i don't recall any mention
of distinctly foreign dress. They just were described as rather
rag-tag in worn cast-off mismatched clothing. Of course, it wasn't as
if any of the writers "in period" really had any understanding of
Gypsy culture or even any sympathy for them. The Gypsies were
generally pariahs wherever they went. A few kingdoms or
principalities, particularly in Scandinavia, opened their gates to
them in generosity, when they heard about the bad treatment they were
getting elsewhere, but within a VERY short time, the Gypsies were
being driven from those places as well.

Of course, i can't remember where i read the above information. I
think the travel from South and Central Asia to Persia and Turkey is
fairly well documented, but i can't give anyone a reference :-( And
i'm sure that the dates of various laws regarding Gypsies in Europe
can be verified.

Sorry i'm not more helpful. This is rather third hand info, but i
hope it gives anyone who's interested a starting point.

Anahita Gauri bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------

----- Original Message -----
From: "Harold Tackett" <htackett@EAGNET.COM>
To: <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 1999 8:43 AM
Subject: Gypsies Garb


> Gypsies garb at least the womens dress was very distinct in Europe from
the
> first recored sitings in the early 15th century until just post-period in
> the 17th. The women wore a Chemise styled dress, a rectangular mantle tied
> on one shoulder and a Turban.
>
> A realy good book that shows some early  examples is "The Gypsies" by
Angus
> Fraser, ISBN 0631159673.
>
> The one of earliest example I have found is "Gypsy Family" by Master of
the
> Housbook,
> 1480.
> other examples are:
> Hieronymus Bousch 's "The Haywain" , 1500 - bottom center of panel
>
> Titan's "La Zingarella", 1510
>
> Coregio's "Gypsy Madonna", 1530
>
> Caravaggio's "The Fortune Teller", 1594-95 - Caravaggio's gypsy is dressed
> in a high neck chemise instead of the more typical chemise dress.
>
> I am currently working on a class for Gulf Wars next year on gypsy garb.
If
> I can help more let me know.
> Lady Dinah bint Ismai'l
> htackett@eagnet.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fhavas <ches@IO.COM>
> To: SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
> Date: Saturday, October 30, 1999 9:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Gypsies
>
>
> >I think this subject is definitely worth getting into!! :)
> >
> >Several individuals have tried through the years to get appropriate
> >information on the dress and no one until you has been able to give some
> >insight the way you did. Thank you!!
> >
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >FHavas
> >Dallas, Texas
>

----- Original Message -----
From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gypsies


>
> -Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Fran wrote:
> > You have no idea how correct you are Henk. Everyone that I have
conversed
> > with had a totally different view of what they looked like. On the SCA
> list
> > we have two individuals that have done a great deal of personal research
> on
> > these people and have come out with different answers.
>
> Could you bring me into contact with these people? I'm curious as to their
> sources.
>
>  I personally know
> > someone from Macedonia and he tells me that it is on purpose that their
> true
> > dress and identity is obscured or purposely misdirected.
>
> Now why would they do that? They were a travelling people and as such very
> visible to the more settled burghers and peasants. I can imagine they
would
> dress down to trade with the settlers, but they also had a reputation for
> being exotic and until relatively recent they dressed the part in
Hungarian
> or Balkan outfits at fairs and other public events. So what's behind this
> statement?
> >
> > So tell us what you have learned and we will add it to our files of one
> more
> > person's research of what these 4 different peoples called the gypsy's
> look
> > like to you.
> >
> Up till now I have one late 15th c drawing of a couple with two kids,
> supposed to be gypsies. Apart from some details they look quite normal. I
> also have written reports about Egytians from 1407 and later in our
country.
> That's all.
>
> Henk
> >
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

We just updated our web site, which features books on historic costume
and vintage clothes:

http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm

Feel free to take a look!

Allan Terry



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 19 00:56:21 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <004401bf323d$43cd8700$0200a8c0@pavilion>
Subject: Re: H-COST:Uniquely You Dress Form
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 23:28:43 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


> Does anyone know if there is a web site for the uniquely you dress form?
I
> just tried to order one from JoAnn's (killer sale, only $99.00!!!) but I
> just got a call from the store saying the sizing of the forms had changed
> and the old method (the one on Farthingale's web site) no longer applies.
I
> am trying to get info on the current sizing method as email is faster than
> waiting for the store to call me back next week. Any takers?
>
> -Megan

 I don't know about a web site for the forms but is Joann's far from you?
The last time I was in our local store, I remember seeing forms you could
pick up off the counter with all that information on it. Will that work?
MIchelle

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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 14:26:35 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hello folks

I followed the recent discussion on organ-pipe pleats and how to do 
them but really need to *see* it in order to make sure I've got it 
right fromt he descriptions.

The first edition of Blanche Payne's "History of costume" was 
mentioned as having details of organ-pipe pleated bases and a 
diagram. 

I got the book on inter-library loan and founf the diagram is a 
pattern-layout for the bases and not, as I had hoped, a diagram of 
how the pleats are constructed.

So, has anyone on h-costume got any ideas where I should look 
for *pictorial instructions* or clear diagrams of how organ pipe 
pleats are constructed?

Many thanks in advance for any and all suggestions


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 19 17:19:56 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Greetings!
I think "The Art of Manipulating Fabric" has the information you need.  I
think I've got the title right.  It's the book that has *innumerable*
pictures of actual muslins done up in each and every manipulation you can
think of, as well as very detailed line drawings and verbal directions.

I keep hoping to find my copy of the book so I could give the ISBN and
author, but the book is buried *somwhere*!  I'm not sure which project it is
under, and I've moved and shuffled them all to try and find it over the last
few days, since this question came up.

Gia/Giacinta
bookahilic
_________________
Hello folks

I followed the recent discussion on organ-pipe pleats and how to do
them but really need to *see* it in order to make sure I've got it
right fromt he descriptions.

The first edition of Blanche Payne's "History of costume" was
mentioned as having details of organ-pipe pleated bases and a
diagram.

I got the book on inter-library loan and founf the diagram is a
pattern-layout for the bases and not, as I had hoped, a diagram of
how the pleats are constructed.

So, has anyone on h-costume got any ideas where I should look
for *pictorial instructions* or clear diagrams of how organ pipe
pleats are constructed?

Many thanks in advance for any and all suggestions


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
_________________________________________________________________
To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 19 17:41:16 1999
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From: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: <lisaleon@hawaii.edu>

> I think "The Art of Manipulating Fabric" has the information you need.  I
> think I've got the title right.  It's the book that has *innumerable*
> pictures of actual muslins done up in each and every manipulation you can
> think of, as well as very detailed line drawings and verbal directions.

	I also hunted down this book with the express purpose of finding
out how to do organ pipe pleats.  Although there are instructions for
organ pipe pleats, they aren't the same thing as the ones on German gowns.  
However, it _is_ a very nice book with wonderful photos of all kinds of
other nifty things you can do to fabric.

lisa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 19 20:19:51 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Ah HA!  I found it under a needlework project...don't have a clue how it got
there!  But, the author is Colette Wolff, ISBN 0-8019-8496-3

Lisa is right, the organ pleats are 'stuffed', and might not provide the
amount of 'fullness' that you typically see at the hems and other portions
of the garments.

It is possible that the 'Rollback Cartridge'  that is in the book might
provide more fullness to get the correct silohette.  I don't think the
book's muslin sample is an example that one can use to visualize this,
because the sample's material *is* muslin, and rather lightweight.  In my
mind's eye, I can visualize using a material of the weight of, say, good
thick wool, and doing the rollback cartridge, to get that really 'stuffed
organ pleat' look.

Granted, this is in my mind's eye, and I've not done a practical application
of this thought.  Has anyone tried this?

Gia/Giacinta


>
> I also hunted down this book with the express purpose of finding
>out how to do organ pipe pleats.  Although there are instructions for
>organ pipe pleats, they aren't the same thing as the ones on German gowns.
>However, it _is_ a very nice book with wonderful photos of all kinds of
>other nifty things you can do to fabric.
>
>lisa
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I don't think the company has a web site, but it does have a toll-free 
number. Just call toll free directory assistance (1-800-555-1212) and ask for 
it; you don't have to know what state it's in. 

Gail Finke

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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 22:27:58 -0800
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>



Gia Gavino-Gattshall wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
> 
> Greetings!
> I think "The Art of Manipulating Fabric" has the information you need. 

> I keep hoping to find my copy of the book so I could give the ISBN and
> author, but the book is buried *somwhere*!  

The Art of Manipulation Fabric
  By Colette Wolff
  ISBN 0-8019-8496-3
  1996
  Chilton Book Co.
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-Poster: MMoore@mbs.ednet.ns.ca

Thanks to everyone. If the Nordstrom product is just Zout repackaged I will
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Subject: H-COST: Making rose beads
Message-ID: <19991121.085224.4783.8.cley@juno.com>
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	<QQhpmf07476.199911152023@wodc7mr3.ffx.ops.us.uu.net>
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Could someone please re-pst directions for making beads out of rose
petals? I accidently deleted it! :(



			Many thanks,

				Arlys

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Fw: H-COST: beads
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 12:09:05 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


----- Original Message -----
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: beads


>
> -Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
>
>
> > How do you make beads from rose petals?
>
> At last! A question I know the answer to! *Happy Dance*
>
> *ahem*
>
> I've found a lot of variation in different recipies, but here is a basic
for
> making rose petal clay, from which you make rose petal beads. (I'm also
> available for panels to teach how to work with the stuff, if anyone is
> interested.)
>
> First, get a whole lotta rose petals. Fresh is best, but dried can work if
> you re-hydrate them.
>
> Grind up the petals in a blender, into a fine mush.
>
> Next, in an iron skillet (which conducts the heat properly, and adds a
touch
> of color) put the mush and a bit of water in, and start to lightly simmer.
> Do not bring to a boil, as burnt petals just smell nasty. Cook this mush
> until it turns dark and the water is mostly cooked off. If the water cooks
> off before the right color is reached, add more, and KEEP STIRRING!
>
> When the mush is ready, scoop out of the skillet and allow it to cool.
Then,
> take a morter and pestle (or whatever you can use to really grind with)
and
> get ready to have the best work-out your arms have ever had.
>
> When the mush is ground into a workable clay, you can form beads from it.
I
> usually go for the basic round bead, but you can use forms to press the
clay
> into shapes if you like. String the formed beads (carefully, so as not to
> de-form them) onto a string or thin wire.
>
> Once strung, find a warm, dry area to hang them up and let them dry
> completely. Be sure and turn them once a day, so they won't stick to the
> string and crumble when you remove them. After three or four days, they
> should be ready to string into a necklace, or whatever you like.
>
> Once dry, the beads may be polished, for a more finished look, or left
> rough. If you want to add more rose scent to the beads, take some rose
> essential oil, and put it into the clay as you are making the beads. You
may
> also add a small amount of oil to re-scent dried beads, but be careful not
> to add too much. The beads may start to crumble if you do.
> Also, store them well protected from small critters, as they are a tasty
> munch for anything that likes to nosh on organic matter.
>
> Please note, if you don't have time to do all this at once, you can, at
any
> point, put the rose mush/clay into the freezer and start up again with it
> when you have time.
>
> I have lots more info, so please let me know if you'd like me to dig it
out
> for y'all. Also, there are some good web pages on the subject, just a
quick
> click from any of your favorite search engines.
>
> Kate
> ----
> StitchWitch
>
> In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://voicemail.excite.com
> Talk online at http://voicechat.excite.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Fw: H-COST: beads
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 12:11:33 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


----- Original Message -----
From: Amanda Reeves <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: beads


>
> -Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
>
> From: Dogpatch USA Cookbook, Dogpatch Receipts, Superstitions of the
Ozarks
> and Hill Country Remedies.
>
> "To make a string of rose beads place 1 3/4 cups flour, 4 tablespoons salt
> in a bowl and add water, a little at a time to make a smooth dough. Press
3
> cups finely chopped rose petals into the dough. Flour a bread board and
> roll dough 1/4 inch thick. Cut with thimble. Roll each circle in palm of
> hand to form a smooth bead. String on wire (thin) and hang finished
strands
> in dark place to dry. Move often to keep from sticking. Add a little food
> coloring if more color is desired. Moonbeam likes glitter beads of gold
> strung with her rose beads."
>
> Rose beads will make those who wear them healthy and lucky.
>
>
>
> Amanda
>
> ----------
> > From: Heather <heather@herb-lore.com>
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: Re: H-COST: beads
> > Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 6:28 PM
> >
> > -Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
> >
> > > At last! A question I know the answer to! *Happy Dance*
> >
> > I'll have to try this way. It sounds a easier than the way I learned.
> >
> > Simmer rose petals in rose water for about 30 minutes. Just tear the
> petals
> > up and throw them in the water. You'll need a lot; 2 cups does about
> enough
> > for one bracelet. After 30 minutes, turn off the heat and let it soak
for
> 24
> > hours. Repeat the simmering for 3-4 days, adding rose water as needed.
> One
> > the last day, drain well and shape as Kate said. They shrink to about
> half
> > the size, so you'll want to make them big. They smell nice and the kids
> like
> > making them, but they are fairly ugly.
> >
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 21 13:46:54 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199911120015.SAA22583@cdale3.midwest.net><QQhpmf07476.199911152023@wodc7mr3.ffx.ops.us.uu.net> <19991121.085224.4783.8.cley@juno.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Making rose beads
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 12:20:07 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


> Could someone please re-pst directions for making beads out of rose
> petals? I accidently deleted it! :(
>
> Arlys

I wasn't sure which one you wanted so...while I was looking, I found 2.
    Also, some time back I posted a detailed description on sca-garb.  If
you want more on the topic, let me know and I will look for that one too.
Michelle

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Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 20:25:33 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Making rose beads
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> > Could someone please re-pst directions for making beads out of rose
> > petals? I accidently deleted it! :(
> >
> > Arlys
> 
> I wasn't sure which one you wanted so...while I was looking, I found 2.
>     Also, some time back I posted a detailed description on sca-garb.  If
> you want more on the topic, let me know and I will look for that one too.
> Michelle

And, as somebody else pointed out, a simple web search turns up lots of
other recipes.

Emma

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Making rose beads
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References: <199911120015.SAA22583@cdale3.midwest.net><QQhpmf07476.199911152023@wodc7mr3.ffx.ops.us.uu.net> <19991121.085224.4783.8.cley@juno.com>
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>


>I wasn't sure which one you wanted so...while I was looking, I found 2.
>    Also, some time back I posted a detailed description on sca-garb. 
If
>you want more on the topic, let me know and I will look for that one
too.
>Michelle


Please, please! :-)

Thanks to everyone for sending me the recipes. We just bought a house
with lots of rose bushes! There will be more by the time I get done with
it. ;)


				Arlys

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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: The Costume Institute and my trip to NYC
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 22:11:23 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

I went to NYC this past weekend, for the first time in several years.  I
actually went to Greenberg & Hammer, in person!  What a great little shop.
More buttons than anyplace I've ever seen.  I got several pounds of
quarter-inch boning, for my corset experiments this winter.  I saw Wellner?
fabrics - where the cheapest thing in the store appeared to be $50/yard, and
my eye was caught by some bronze lace - at a mere $150/yd I didn't get to
bring any home, but just seeing it was great.  My disappointment was that I
went to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and  wanted to go to the costume
institute in the basement for the victorian clothing exhibit, which my
catalog said was open until the 21st.  It had closed on the 17th.  So I had
to content myself with getting a book from the shop, and seeing a leather
men's doublet that is displayed in the armor section.  First time I've
actually seen a 500 year old piece of clothing.  My husband and I also went
to the Cloisters.  Wonderful place.  Anyone who goes to NY please go there -
it is full of treasures such as the Unicorn tapestries!  Just wonderful!!!!
We had such a good time actually going to these places I had only read
about, and I heartily recommend it.  Just be sure to leave some room in your
luggage to bring back all the stuff you buy!!!!!!!!!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 21 23:36:17 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fw:      Re: [SCA-U] Rose beads 
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 22:06:45 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


----- Original Message -----
From: Michelle <mandrake@MYPAD.COM>
To: <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: [SCA-U] Rose beads (fwd)


> I have made rose beads and lilac beads.  I have seen or have copies of a
> couple of different recipes.  I am not sure of the periodness of them
> though.
>   The easiest way I found to make them was:
>         Grind petals (just petals) in a food processor. Petals will be
lumpy
> but ground.  Put them in a lightly covered container. Be sure that there
is
> some air, otherwise your petals will mold but, not so much air that you
> cause them to dry out. Once a day for a week, take your petals out and
grind
> them some more. At the end of a one week period, the petals should be a
> clay-like consistency. If not, a few more days may be necessary.  Before
> forming balls/beads, to make them a bit more aromatic you can add some
> essential oil.  I did, and it helped.
>        Roll your clay-like mixture into balls twice the size of the size
you
> want.  Pierce them with 'T' pins and stab the pins into a cork board.  As
> they dry, manipulate them on the pin.  Rotate to keep from sticking and
> adjust roundness of bead. Manipulation can only be done in the early parts
> of the dying stage, otherwise, they will crack and wont go back together.
> They should take a few weeks to thoroughly dry.  Once the outside is dry
you
> can remove from them from the pin and allow to dry in an open area.
>
>   I can look up the recipes if you want. After trial and error this is
what
> worked best for me.  The recipes called for iron skillets.  (keeping the
> petal mixture in there and grinding with a mortor and pestal.  I had a
> problem with rust and the food processor made for less wear on my wrists.)
>     It doesn't matter what color the petals are to start.  Once they
> deteriorate they turn a brownish-black.  This will be the color of your
> bead.
>
>   Michelle

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Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 09:44:01 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> The Art of Manipulation Fabric
>   By Colette Wolff
>   ISBN 0-8019-8496-3
>   1996
>   Chilton Book Co.

Many thanks for the suggestions of checking this book.  I've just 
requested it from our campus that does fabric arts courses, but I 
think I looked at it when it was bought and came through here for 
cataloguing, and the version of organ-pipe pleats disn't seem 
applicable.



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 07:52:03 -0600 (EST)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Making rose beads
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Cool, then for those that do not have web access please post those URL's
so that when they have the opportunity to go to a library they can look it
up. In the mean time if you can post the instructions I am sure they will
just as greatful.

PLEASE remember not every one has web access!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Sun, 21 Nov 1999, Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:

> Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 20:25:33 -0600 (CST)
> From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Making rose beads
> 
> 
> -Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
> 
> 
> > > Could someone please re-pst directions for making beads out of rose
> > > petals? I accidently deleted it! :(
> > >
> > > Arlys
> > 
> > I wasn't sure which one you wanted so...while I was looking, I found 2.
> >     Also, some time back I posted a detailed description on sca-garb.  If
> > you want more on the topic, let me know and I will look for that one too.
> > Michelle
> 
> And, as somebody else pointed out, a simple web search turns up lots of
> other recipes.
> 
> Emma
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 10:30:47 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Making rose beads
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> -Poster: ches@io.com
> 
> Cool, then for those that do not have web access please post those URL's
> so that when they have the opportunity to go to a library they can look it
> up. In the mean time if you can post the instructions I am sure they will
> just as greatful.
> 
> PLEASE remember not every one has web access!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Aah, terribly sorry! A bad assumption on my part.  Here are a few from
google:

http://www.spiritonline.com/gallery/crafts/beadsrose.html
http://markw.com/rosebeads.htm
http://www.i-depth.com/P/d/d00004.frm.yl-crafts.msg/14.html
http://www.nfobase.com/html/rose_beads.htm
http://www.mindspring.com/~maclain/southdowns/phoenix/Articles/rosebeads.html
http://www.nactx.com/country/rose.htm
http://www.pathcom.com/~newmoon/cont5.htm
http://www.mtsu.edu/~kgregg/dmir/14/rose_beads.html
http://www.astro.wisc.edu/~mukluk/rose.html
http://www.roo.com/archive/rope.htm
http://www.suite101.com/discussion.cfm/rose_gardening/6927/latest/11

Hope this is helpful
Emma

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Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 16:54:09 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Mis-matched sleeves
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi all,

Can anyone point me at paintings, illustrations etc that support the 
concept of  "mismatched sleeves" for 14th and/or 15th century 
women.

I've heard/read various things about one sleeve being elaborately 
decorated and embroidered, and the other and that this may have 
been so that the lady could give her sleeve as a "favour" to a 
gentleman.  I've also read (somewhere) that with one sleeve gone 
the other would still have been worn, possibly paired up with 
another sleeve which had lost its partner as a "favour".

I *know* I've seen some pictures of women with mismatched 
sleeves (different fabrics, or one more highly decorated than the 
other) or one sleeve missing, but I can't remember where.  It wasn't 
something I was looking for a tt he time, and now that I need it, I 
can't think where to start looking

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

> I've heard/read various things about one sleeve being elaborately 
> decorated and embroidered

Hi Teddy!
Jacqueline Herald mentions that the Italian ladys use to decorate 
the left sleeve with heraldic or fanciful ornaments. She uses the 
"Portrait of a Lady in Yellow" by Alessio Baldovinetti as an 
example. She also mentions a painting by Cranach, I believe it was 
Mary Magdalene, who had a Phoenix embroidered with pearls and 
jewels. She also mentions wardrobe accounts listing single sleeves 
under the heading of jewelry.

The book is "Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500," Humanities 
Press, 1981.

Hope that helps!


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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-Poster: deanq@ionet.net

I am just about finished boning my first corset.  I used the corset generator 
on the Elizabethan costuming page and am about ready to put the grommetts in.
The diagrams show boning right up close to each side of the center back.  I am 
using 1/2 metal stays, so my grommets would be 1/2 inch away from the edge.  
The instructions say they should be at least 1/2 inch away. . .but I am getting 
an uneasy feeling about it.  Any words of wisdom or warnings???
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Grommet placement in corset
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


> -Poster: deanq@ionet.net
>I am
> using 1/2 metal stays, so my grommets would be 1/2 inch away from the
edge.
> The instructions say they should be at least 1/2 inch away. . .but I am
getting
> an uneasy feeling about it.  Any words of wisdom or warnings???

  If you don't put any reinforcement along that edge it will probably
ripple.  I want to caution you about  putting grommets or eyelets in until
it is adjusted exactly how you want it.  A line of stitching you can take
out, a hole you cannot.
   What prompted me to give advice is from my experience with boning the
back.  I used metal bones, made from a band saw blade, in the corset I made
last.
   While we were  fitting it, my mom and I noticed how the back of the
corset stuck out at the top. It didn't follow the natural curve on my upper
back. When we put my bodice on over it, the bones held the corset and bodice
out, away from my back.  It looked really dumb. I thought about making the
bones shorter, so that they just went part way up my back but then realized
that my eyelets wouldn't get support.  What I ended up doing is putting a
double thickness of  horsehair braid up the boning channels.  That allowed
it to follow the curve of my back and support the pull on the eyelets.  Only
the front has the metal bones, to flatten my breasts.

Michelle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 22 14:55:49 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Gypsy dress
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>

> Caravaggio's "The Fortune Teller", 1594-95 - Caravaggio's gypsy is dressed
> in a high neck chemise instead of the more typical chemise dress.

You might also look at a Georges de la Tour painting by the same name approx
1630.  There are several other of his that are related.  National Portrait
Gallery, Smithsonian, Wash DC did a GdlT exhibit that went on tour through
out the US several years ago (it was at the Met, too).  You might find the
catalog in your local library.  I bought it.  A beautiful work collecting,
comparing & contrasting many works of the Candlelight masters.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At last, I have finished the text of my Gold Rush Costume webpage.  I'd like
to break it down into sections and add a ton of illustrations, but the
likelihood of my getting to it this century is nil, so I decided to put it
up as is.  Let me know what you think!

It's at   http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm


Margo Anderson


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Grommet placement in corset
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


"by "1/2 inch away", I mean the center of the grommet...I should clarify
that in the instructions.

In one corset I made, I had a 1/2 inch wide stay on either side of the
opening and the grommets on the outside of each, with the grommet hole
butted up against the edge of the stay.  It was very secure. If you have
boning between the grommet and edge, you should be fine.

Drea



 On Mon, 22
Nov 1999 deanq@ionet.net wrote:

> 
> -Poster: deanq@ionet.net
> 
> I am just about finished boning my first corset.  I used the corset generator 
> on the Elizabethan costuming page and am about ready to put the grommetts in.
> The diagrams show boning right up close to each side of the center back.  I am 
> using 1/2 metal stays, so my grommets would be 1/2 inch away from the edge.  
> The instructions say they should be at least 1/2 inch away. . .but I am getting 
> an uneasy feeling about it.  Any words of wisdom or warnings???
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 22 16:18:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:34:10 EST
Subject: H-COST: Great Fabric Outlet in East Bay!
To: h-costume@indra.com, vintage@indra.com
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Dear List,

I thought I had posted this, but cannot find a trace of it in my sent 
e-mails, so decided it could never hurt to provide the information again.

DISCOUNT FABRICS, one of the BEST fabric outlets in SF, is now open in 
Oakland, at 17th and Harrison.  It's actually on Harrison, just down from 
17th Street.

The fabric prices are reasonable, and go down if you buy by the bolt. It is a 
warehouse, so whatever they have, they have, but they have a lot, especially 
of luscious and exotic fabrics with which to make costumey goodies.  Right 
now some exquisite imported silk brocades are on sale.

Enjoy shopping!

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
"What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both 
wind and tide."
King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 22 16:31:53 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Great Fabric Outlet in East Bay!
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>


> DISCOUNT FABRICS, one of the BEST fabric outlets in SF, is now open in 
> Oakland, at 17th and Harrison.  It's actually on Harrison, just down from

> 17th Street.

Oh, you would! Here I am, trying to stick to some sort of budget, and there
you go, tempting me with outlet prices on my favorite addiction. (Well, next
to chocolate, but it's close.) And I'm going to be in the area over the
Thanksgiving weekend, so there goes all hope. *stamps foot*
By the way, would you happen to know if they have fabrics suitable for
Medieval Spain . . . ?

Kate
----
StitchWitch

In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 22 16:42:53 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Mis-matched sleeves
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

An SCA friend of mine did her Laurel elevation gown, Italian in style,
with mismatched sleeves. The ground fabric was the same, but the
embellishment she did on top of it was amazing. As her personal heraldry
features a sun in splendor and a night sky full of stars, she embroidered
the sun on one sleeve and beaded the other for the stars. Absolutely
gorgeous! 



					Arlys


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 22 17:00:54 1999
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Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 15:16:54 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Great Fabric Outlet in East Bay!
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
>
>
>> DISCOUNT FABRICS, one of the BEST fabric outlets in SF, is now open in
>> Oakland, at 17th and Harrison.  It's actually on Harrison, just down from
>> 17th Street.
>
>Oh, you would! Here I am, trying to stick to some sort of budget, and there
>you go, tempting me with outlet prices on my favorite addiction. (Well, next
>to chocolate, but it's close.) And I'm going to be in the area over the
>Thanksgiving weekend, so there goes all hope. *stamps foot*
>By the way, would you happen to know if they have fabrics suitable for
>Medieval Spain . . . ?
>
>Kate
>----
>StitchWitch
>
>In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8

You'll have to check you likes/dislikes yourself but they had some
lightweight brocades when I was in there last - forest green, burgundy,
deep blue, you know the sort.  They carry silks at a pretty good price, and
their linen prices are pretty good too.  This store isn't as good for trims
as I remember the ones on Haight and on Irving are, but the people are
really nice.  Do not look for patterns; they have one or two old pattern
books for reference but their pattern supply is very spotty.  They're
selling out what patterns they have and won't be replacing them (Simplicity
only, IIRC).  I had lots of fun  in there the several times I've gone.  The
first time I went they had all wools on sale 33% off all marked prices and
less for the full bolt than for yardage.  I ended up spending about $45 for
10 yards of beautiful burgundy suit weight wool.

I don't know their holiday hours, but they are closed on Sundays.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 22 17:37:32 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST:Gold Rush Costume Webpage
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 14:34:13 -0800
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

Margo, just read it and it is very good.  Most enjoyable and informative.
But I have one small point, and I will admit to being picky here.  You said,
"Suspenders were made of sturdy cloth, woven tape with leather ends with
buttonholes which fastened to buttons on the trousers. Ladies sometimes made
them in Berlin work, similar to needlepoint."  Berlin work is needlepoint.
The term "Berlin work" describes the charts that were printed in Germany and
imported all over. So if a woman was doing "Berlin work" she was doing
needlepoint with a German chart.  I know a small point, but needlework is
one of the most misunderstood of the needle arts.

Yours Stephen Bergdahl

-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson [mailto:margo@directcon.net]
Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 1:40 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST:Gold Rush Costume Webpage



-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At last, I have finished the text of my Gold Rush Costume webpage.  I'd like
to break it down into sections and add a ton of illustrations, but the
likelihood of my getting to it this century is nil, so I decided to put it
up as is.  Let me know what you think!

It's at   http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm


Margo Anderson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 22 18:05:37 1999
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From: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Great Fabric Outlet in East Bay!
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-Poster: "StitchWitch" <stitchwitch@excite.com>

 *snip*

> first time I went they had all wools on sale 33% off all marked prices
and
> less for the full bolt than for yardage.  I ended up spending about $45
for
> 10 yards of beautiful burgundy suit weight wool.
> 
> I don't know their holiday hours, but they are closed on Sundays.

Thank you, thank you. Y'all are not helping my budget one little bit, thank
you! ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch

In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8




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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:47:54 EST
Subject: H-COST: French Bustle Help
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-Poster: WendiRae@aol.com

I am trying to put a French Bustle into my wedding gown, does anyone know of 
any good websites that can help or offer advice?

Thanks,
Wendi
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 08:31:07 1999
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Mis-matched sleeves
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Linda
 
> > I've heard/read various things about one sleeve being elaborately
> > decorated and embroidered
> 
> Hi Teddy!
> Jacqueline Herald mentions that the Italian ladys use to decorate the
> left sleeve with heraldic or fanciful ornaments.

Thanks!  Straight to the book I got it from in the first place.  I'll have 
to borrow it again so I can show my friend.

She's just started costuming, is just learning clothing construction  
is interested in Italian styles and has the patience for embroidery 
(any patience for hand sewing is alien to my nature....<g>).

We made her an ivory damask Italian Ren.  Back lacing, low 
rounded neckline with seperate sleeves split up the back 
(sleeveless red/ivory boracade V necked overgown to go with it) We 
had enough ivory fabric left for an extra sleeve, so drew out the 
shape on the fabric and she took it away to "embelish"

She outlined all the woven pattern in various colours and filled in a 
lot of the "leaves" with different stitches.  It looks great and I said 
I'd see if I could dicg up some doccumentation for having one 
sleeve decorated

Thanks for your help


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 08:38:01 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 06:29:47 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

I am using pieces of 1/2 metal stay intended for hoop skirts.  I have
protected the ends with those little metal pieces that you pound on.  That
seems to be working well, but I have two questions:  The metal seems a
little stiff for the sides (front bottom is nice and flat)where the tabs
are.  I have been successful in modifying the parts where I want it to curve
around my breast(this is for a German 1540's silhouette-{I know!!!  They
didn't really wear corsets!!!})by using metal on the bottom and a double
layer of ridgeline on top-but I was wondering about the bottom.  Do most
people just use stays that bend a lot more, or have I missed something?

Second question.  I tried using that plastic dip stuff for protecting the
bottom.  This type of stay has to 1/16" metal running down both sides
encased in fabric which appears to be stiffened.  I can't seem to get much
protection with the plastic dip (So far I've only dipped once each-I'm just
curious if anyone else has had the same problem).

Thanks to those who responded to my earlier question.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 08:46:07 1999
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:03:25 -0600 (EST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: French Bustle Help
In-Reply-To: <0.895dfd06.256bf50a@aol.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

If you do not find one let me know. I saved some info from someone's
website years ago and the site is now gone. I will share the pictures with
you and the text so long as it is not put back on the web. I have not been
able to find the owner to ask permission for it to be put back up for her.
:( 

It has been about 2 years.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Tue, 23 Nov 1999 WendiRae@aol.com wrote:

> Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:47:54 EST
> From: WendiRae@aol.com
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: French Bustle Help
> 
> 
> -Poster: WendiRae@aol.com
> 
> I am trying to put a French Bustle into my wedding gown, does anyone know of 
> any good websites that can help or offer advice?
> 
> Thanks,
> Wendi
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

 
> > > I've heard/read various things about one sleeve being elaborately
> > > decorated and embroidered
> > 
> > Hi Teddy!
> > Jacqueline Herald mentions that the Italian ladys use to decorate the
> > left sleeve with heraldic or fanciful ornaments.

In Lightbown's Medieval European Jewelry he shows some German women 
with the *right* sleeve ornamented. The Italians seemed to have done 
the left while the Germans did the right.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:34:28 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Mis-matched sleeves
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

> Thanks!  Straight to the book I got it from in the first place.  I'll have 
> to borrow it again so I can show my friend.

Hi again Teddy!
Glad that helped out.
 
> We made her an ivory damask Italian Ren.  Back lacing, low 
> rounded neckline with seperate sleeves split up the back 
> (sleeveless red/ivory boracade V necked overgown to go with it)

Sounds nice. I'd like to make myself another Italian Ren with an 
embellished sleeve. The Society for Creative Anachronism just 
passed my arms, so I'd like to embroidered a sleeve with my 
heraldic device.

> She outlined all the woven pattern in various colours and filled in a 
> lot of the "leaves" with different stitches.  It looks great 

Ahh, to have the time to sit and embroider ;-)

I'm off to Denver for the Thanksgiving holiday. I'm trying to talk my 
boyfriend into stopping at Denver Fabrics while we're there. They 
had some wonderful brocades on sale when we were there last. 
And they have a whole wall of buttons!

Hope all is well!


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

> In Lightbown's Medieval European Jewelry he shows some German women 
> with the *right* sleeve ornamented. The Italians seemed to have done 
> the left while the Germans did the right.

Hi Kat! 

Was this during the same time period? 1460s-1500?

Do you have more info on the book you mentioned. I did a search 
on Amazon.com and it didn't come up with it.

Thanks!


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 09:47:25 1999
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:14:57 -0600
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Footwear of the Middle Ages
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

For those who are interested, the website Footwear of the Middle Ages has
moved to 
"http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOEHOME.HTM" 

Please feel free to pass it on.

Marc Carlson
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

 
> > In Lightbown's Medieval European Jewelry he shows some German women 
> > with the *right* sleeve ornamented. The Italians seemed to have done 
> > the left while the Germans did the right.

> Was this during the same time period? 1460s-1500?

Figure 137 is 1460 and shows the L on a German lady. Plates 118 and 
119 are on the R, 1500. These last 2 are in the color section. 

> Do you have more info on the book you mentioned. I did a search 
> on Amazon.com and it didn't come up with it.

ISBN 0-948107-87-1. It's out of print and very hard to find used. I 
know people who have been looking for nearly a year and haven't found 
it.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 13:31:05 -0600 (EST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Mis-matched sleeves
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Tue, 23 Nov 1999 kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:

> > > In Lightbown's Medieval European Jewelry he shows some German women 
> > > with the *right* sleeve ornamented. The Italians seemed to have done 
> > > the left while the Germans did the right.
> 
> > Was this during the same time period? 1460s-1500?
> 
> Figure 137 is 1460 and shows the L on a German lady. Plates 118 and 
> 119 are on the R, 1500. These last 2 are in the color section. 

I haven't seen these, but I'd immediately be alert as to the possibilty of
directional reversal that may have occurred at some time in the
publications process. If the image in your book is a photoreproduction of
a painting or other non-print art from the period, you're *probably* OK.
If it's an engraving or etching (from any period), it could have been
flipped left-to-right in the course of creating the plate from an artist's
original drawing and then printing with it. If it's a modern redrawing, it
could have been copied from an engraving (and thus the redrawing will
preserve the flip). So, if there was engraving or etching used at any
point in the process of carrying this image from 1500 to now, directionals
are suspect. 

I've seen cases in which a 19th-century costume book (before photography
could be used in printing) used an engraving to show a costume seen in a
painting. Then a 20th century costume book includes a redrawing of that
engraving, but cites the image as being based on a painting -- without
noting that the image is still switched left-to-right. 

Even modern photographs aren't completely safe; they can be flipped over
in the process of bookmaking (sometimes intentionally, sometimes not). In
my days as a typesetter, we used the word "flopped" to describe an image
that had a left-to-right reversal. ("Reversed," in printing, means change
black-on-white to white-on-black, like a photo negative.) We flop images
all the time in newspapers and magazines when we're putting together an
illustrative or artistic layout -- you don't want the person in a
photograph or drawing facing off the page if you can help it. (But you
have to make sure there's no writing in the image.)

--Robin

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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

Just a note, as you get to the later slashed sleeves in Germany
(1500-1550), the slashing patterns and colors are symmetrical for women,
but often asymetrical in men. (I have no idea why).

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 14:10:26 1999
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Subject: Re: Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

Teddy,

Isn't there a diagram showing a 1/2 circle with radiating lines in the back
of Blanche Payne's book? This should say "men's bases" or something like
that. It doesn't say "organ pipe pleats".  The instructions are on the
diagram and are not that detailed. There are no step by step instructions
printed that I know of.

Julie Adams


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Mis-matched sleeves
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

> Date:          Tue, 23 Nov 1999 13:31:05 -0600 (EST)
> From:          Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> To:            h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:       Re: H-COST: Mis-matched sleeves
> Reply-to:      h-costume@indra.com

> 
> -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> 
> 
> On Tue, 23 Nov 1999 kat@grendal.rain.com wrote:
> 
> > > > In Lightbown's Medieval European Jewelry he shows some German women 
> > > > with the *right* sleeve ornamented. The Italians seemed to have done 
> > > > the left while the Germans did the right.
> > 
> > > Was this during the same time period? 1460s-1500?
> > 
> > Figure 137 is 1460 and shows the L on a German lady. Plates 118 and 
> > 119 are on the R, 1500. These last 2 are in the color section. 
> 
> I haven't seen these, but I'd immediately be alert as to the possibilty of
> directional reversal that may have occurred at some time in the
> publications process. If the image in your book is a photoreproduction of
> a painting or other non-print art from the period, you're *probably* OK.

These are from paintings of the time period. (I wouldn't recommend a 
redrawing nor do I believe engravings done at a later time.) I 
wondered if the black and white (figure 137) was reversed, but 
something about the paintings (all 3) said they weren't. (I'd have to 
pull the book, but I was wondering about possible flipping. However, 
I think there was some lettering or something about the hands that 
said that it was properly printed.)


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 15:50:56 1999
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 17:05:40 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: (new topic) The Costume Institute exhibit
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Like Megan, my friend David Mallinak (who also hangs out on this list) and I 
drove to NYC to see the Costume Institute to see the clothing associated with 
Ingres (We had seen the Ingres exhibit at the National Gallery earlier this 
year). We wanted to do some research on clothing of the period because we 
volunteer at several period houses in the Baltimore/Washington area and it 
would have been very helpful. This trip involved a 4+ hour drive, a lot of 
money in tolls, almost $20 for parking, AND the $10 apiece "donation" to get 
into the Met. 

When we finally found the entrance to the Costume Institute, it was blocked 
off & a guard told us the exhibit had closed early so they could install the 
next exhibit! To add insult to injury, there was NO catalogue of the exhibit! 
 We met another couple from Wilmington, DE, who also had come to the Met to 
see the Costume Institute exhibit.

What makes me so angry is that David checked out the website on Friday 
evening, the 19th and there was nothing to indicate that a) the exhibit had 
closed and b) there was no catalogue. Now, I can understand about the 
catalogue, but a simple message on the C.I. web site stating that due to the 
death of Richard Martin, no catalogue would be available would have been 
appropriate -- and appreciated. 

Even the Met personnel manning the Information Desk didn't know about the 
catalogue. When we went to the book/gift shop, one of the people there told 
us there was no catalogue. There WAS a book by Ribeiro on Ingres and 
clothing, but that wasn't the catalogue mentioned on the web site. It also 
wasn't available in paperback, and at $55 a pop, was a bit pricey. Luckily, 
we DID find a few books we didn't have, so the trip wasn't a total waste, but 
I am appalled at the arrogance and negligence of the Costume Institute. 
Frankly, I donoubt this would have happened with Diana Vreeland in charge. 
Five minutes on a computer to let people know what was going on wouldn't have 
hurt anyone.

We both filed formal complaints at the Information Desk, but I doubt that 
anyone will bother to contact us. At least the gentleman at the desk gave us 
free passes.

I am very disappointed with and angry at the Costume Institute. I urge anyone 
who might consider visiting an exhibit there to CALL AHEAD OF TIME to make 
sure the darn exhibit is still on, because the web site is useless.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 15:56:56 1999
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 02:25:42 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>I am using pieces of 1/2 metal stay intended for hoop skirts.  

You're going to poke yourself in the soft place once too often and hate
yourself.  Use real corset bones, not hoop skirt hooping.  It's not the
same stuff.  www.lacis.com should be able to mail order you any bones you
wanted, maybe other places as well.

Do most
>people just use stays that bend a lot more, or have I missed something?

All you have missed is that you aren't really using corset bones.  Nothing
I know of will keep those hoop wire things from poking you eventually.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 16:12:47 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 14:21:30 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Seconding this sentiment.  Thanks to mail order and the 'net, proper corset
bones are just too easy to come by for anyone to need clever substitutions. 

My one workaround: On the occasions when I find I've got the wrong sizes,
and need some shortened in the middle of the night, my husband trims and
rounds the ends for me, and I seal them with red nail polish which lasts
almost forever and doesn't melt or take up space like that plastic dip
stuff.


MaggiRos


~All my men wear a sword, 
   or they wear nothing at all.


> ----------
> From: 	Carolyn Kayta Barrows[SMTP:kayta@slip.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Tuesday, November 23, 1999 2:25 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset
> 
> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
> 
> >I am using pieces of 1/2 metal stay intended for hoop skirts.  
> 
> You're going to poke yourself in the soft place once too often and hate
> yourself.  Use real corset bones, not hoop skirt hooping.  It's not the
> same stuff.  www.lacis.com should be able to mail order you any bones you
> wanted, maybe other places as well.
> 
> Do most
> >people just use stays that bend a lot more, or have I missed something?
> 
> All you have missed is that you aren't really using corset bones.  Nothing
> I know of will keep those hoop wire things from poking you eventually.
> 
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 16:16:10 1999
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: (new topic) The Costume Institute exhibit
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 14:32:42 -0800
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>


 Kathleen Norvell wrote of her disappointing trip to the Costume Institute,
and I was reminded that I still, after four trips to the Getty have yet to
see their infamous collection of illuminations.  Each time I have gone,
even after calling to be sure they were on exhibit, they were not. 
Fortunately, the trip is only about 2 hours, entrance is free, and I enjoy
the rest of the museum.  

Lorene

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 16:34:16 1999
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Subject: H-COST: early 19thC men's pantyhose?
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 99 17:53:23 -0500
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>

     Early 19thC men's pantyhose?

     Frame knit silk, they have feet in them and they go up to the waist. 
There is a cotton or linen waistband with a button in front and a buckle 
in back for size adjustment. 

     What are they? Perhaps a stocking/drawers combo for underneath snug 
fitting breeches or pantaloons? Has anyone heard of this item in 
descriptions, logs, etc?

     -Carol Kocian
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 16:35:28 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: The Sari discussion (reprise)
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 14:52:10 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Remember the Sari discussion here a few months ago?  Well, I can leave well
enough alone. I had to know why some many people on this list had so many
differing views on how to tie or wrap a sari or indeed even what to call it,
how large one was, where it was worn & by whom.  Here's the info on the book
I ordered (and am very pleased with).

_The Sari : Styles, Patterns, History, Technique_, by Linda Lynton, Sanjay
K. Singh, ISBN 0810944618
 Out-of-Print, Remainder price $25.
My copy just arrived last nite from Edward Hamilton Bargain Books.
http://www.hamiltonbook.com/subject2/etc.html  
No, I'm not affliliated.
 
Amazon's Synopsis: 
"The dazzling variety of fabrics, colors, patterns, and draping styles of
the sari have long been a source of fascination. This superb volume,
comprising a comprehensive text and an array of sumptuous photos taken
throughout the Indian subcontinent, reveals the richness and diversity of
saris worn by women at all levels of society. 350 illustrations, 150 in
color. 75 maps. "

"Most comprehensive, detailed survey of South Asian textiles. Five years of
serious fieldwork, linguistic, anthropological, historical and iconographic
research went into this book. It is the most detailed and comprehensive book
on South Asian textiles on the world-wide market."

I see now why various people recommended Bandaras brocaded silks for
high-end costuming.  Yowsa!
 --cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 17:57:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

Hi folks,

I asked indirectly about organ-pipe pleats a couple of weeks ago, and Stephen Bergdahl 
was kind enough to scan that page and put it up on a web page for me. He gave me 
permission to post the URL here so that anyone can take a look at it. (Thanks Stephen!)

http://www.2xtreme.net/madly/temp/Tudor_Bases.gif

Hope this helps!
--Jessica

> 
> -Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
> 
> Teddy,
> 
> Isn't there a diagram showing a 1/2 circle with radiating lines in the back
> of Blanche Payne's book? This should say "men's bases" or something like
> that. It doesn't say "organ pipe pleats".  The instructions are on the
> diagram and are not that detailed. There are no step by step instructions
> printed that I know of.
> 
> Julie Adams
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 17:04:23 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: early 19thC men's pantyhose?
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

That sounds like what they should be -- tightfitting unders for tightfitting 
pantaloons. Where in the world did you see these? How intriguing.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 17:10:26 1999
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 17:39:31 -0600
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
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-Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>

This is going to sound strange but my big tough cowboy [and all his friends]
wear pantyhose to keep down saddle rub and stay warm in the winter. Just
thought I'd give the city folk a giggle.
Ninya

aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:

> -Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
>
>      Early 19thC men's pantyhose?
>
>      Frame knit silk, they have feet in them and they go up to the waist.
> There is a cotton or linen waistband with a button in front and a buckle
> in back for size adjustment.
>
>      What are they? Perhaps a stocking/drawers combo for underneath snug
> fitting breeches or pantaloons? Has anyone heard of this item in
> descriptions, logs, etc?
>
>      -Carol Kocian
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



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Subject: Re: H-COST: early 19thC men's pantyhose?
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 16:43:16 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

Ninya,

I know a lot of marines that wear pantyhose to keep bugs from biting them.

Heather
----- Original Message -----
From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: early 19thC men's pantyhose?


>
> -Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
>
> This is going to sound strange but my big tough cowboy [and all his
friends]
> wear pantyhose to keep down saddle rub and stay warm in the winter. Just
> thought I'd give the city folk a giggle.
> Ninya
>
> aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>
> > -Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
> >
> >      Early 19thC men's pantyhose?
> >
> >      Frame knit silk, they have feet in them and they go up to the
waist.
> > There is a cotton or linen waistband with a button in front and a buckle
> > in back for size adjustment.
> >
> >      What are they? Perhaps a stocking/drawers combo for underneath snug
> > fitting breeches or pantaloons? Has anyone heard of this item in
> > descriptions, logs, etc?
> >
> >      -Carol Kocian
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Mis-matched sleeves
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-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

Could the proper title be: "Secular Goldsmiths' Work
in Medieval France: a History" by R.W Lightbown?

--- Linda Yordy <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Linda Yordy"
> <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
> 
> > In Lightbown's Medieval European Jewelry he shows
> some German women 
> > with the *right* sleeve ornamented. The Italians
> seemed to have done 
> > the left while the Germans did the right.
> 
> Hi Kat! 
> 
> Was this during the same time period? 1460s-1500?
> 
> Do you have more info on the book you mentioned. I
> did a search 
> on Amazon.com and it didn't come up with it.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Linda Yordy
> Phone: 208/426-4034
> Boise State University
> Center for Management Development
> 1910 University Drive
> Boise, ID  83725-1660
>
********************************************************
> Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch
> 
> directly to your shirt -- it will end up there
> anyway.
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
> 
> -Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
> 
>      Early 19thC men's pantyhose?
> 
>      Frame knit silk, they have feet in them and they go up to the waist.
> There is a cotton or linen waistband with a button in front and a buckle
> in back for size adjustment.
> 
>      What are they? Perhaps a stocking/drawers combo for underneath snug
> fitting breeches or pantaloons? Has anyone heard of this item in
> descriptions, logs, etc?
> 
>      -Carol Kocian
>  _________________________________________________________________
> Yes they are the regency version of drawers. Cunnington has a description in their underwear book with pictures. I made some fro the other half underneath his cavalry pantalon and they work well no VPL or stocking line!!

Dawn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 19:07:27 1999
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From: "gail_middleton" <gail_middleton@email.msn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.13b9204e.256b1ee2@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Great Fabric Outlet in East Bay!
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 21:33:32 -0600
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-Poster: "gail_middleton" <gail_middleton@email.msn.com>

I'm going to have a few hours free in San Francisco on Dec. 8th, and a
rental car to take myself where I will.  (My flight from Wisconsin gets in
at 2:45pm and I don't need to be in Modesto until late evening.) How do I
find these fabric outlets? Are they open into the evenings? I know about
Britex downtown, but would rather go where there might be some affordable
wools.

Gail E Middleton
gail_middleton@msn.com
Sun Prairie, Wisconsin


----- Original Message -----
From: <MzScahlett@aol.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>; <vintage@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 4:34 PM
Subject: H-COST: Great Fabric Outlet in East Bay!


>
> -Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
>
> Dear List,
>
> I thought I had posted this, but cannot find a trace of it in my sent
> e-mails, so decided it could never hurt to provide the information again.
>
> DISCOUNT FABRICS, one of the BEST fabric outlets in SF, is now open in
> Oakland, at 17th and Harrison.  It's actually on Harrison, just down from
> 17th Street.
>
> The fabric prices are reasonable, and go down if you buy by the bolt. It
is a
> warehouse, so whatever they have, they have, but they have a lot,
especially
> of luscious and exotic fabrics with which to make costumey goodies.  Right
> now some exquisite imported silk brocades are on sale.
>
> Enjoy shopping!
>
> angela
>
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes
> Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
> "What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both
> wind and tide."
> King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
> QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
> FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
>
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 17:46:12 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Mis-matched sleeves
In-Reply-To: <199911231537.IAA13058@email.boisestate.edu>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 08:34 AM 11/23/1999, "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
wrote:  Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch  directly to
your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
         Lady--If you truly have a list of these, I would be most grateful
to have them, at your convenience. :-) Happy Thanksgiving, to those of you
who w/b celebrating it! -- Gra/inne
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 <A1A28601914@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 18:01:41 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
>
>Hi folks,
>
>I asked indirectly about organ-pipe pleats a couple of weeks ago, and
>Stephen Bergdahl
>was kind enough to scan that page and put it up on a web page for me. He
>gave me
>permission to post the URL here so that anyone can take a look at it.
>(Thanks Stephen!)
>
>http://www.2xtreme.net/madly/temp/Tudor_Bases.gif
>

Yes, thats it. The front area on those particular bases is flat and
overlapped. If you continue the pleats all around it looks just like the
ones in the pictures.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 21:10:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 19:30:24 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: early 19thC men's pantyhose?
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I am so tempted to reply to this but I have bitten my tongue until it
bleeds!
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: early 19thC men's pantyhose?
>Date: Tue, Nov 23, 1999, 4:43 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
>
>Ninya,
>
>I know a lot of marines that wear pantyhose to keep bugs from biting them.
>
>Heather
>----- Original Message -----
>From: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 3:39 PM
>Subject: Re: H-COST: early 19thC men's pantyhose?
>
>
>>
>> -Poster: The Mulders <mulder@mail.brightok.net>
>>
>> This is going to sound strange but my big tough cowboy [and all his
>friends]
>> wear pantyhose to keep down saddle rub and stay warm in the winter. Just
>> thought I'd give the city folk a giggle.
>> Ninya
>>
>> aquazoo@patriot.net wrote:
>>
>> > -Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>
>> >
>> >      Early 19thC men's pantyhose?
>> >
>> >      Frame knit silk, they have feet in them and they go up to the
>waist.
>> > There is a cotton or linen waistband with a button in front and a
buckle
>> > in back for size adjustment.
>> >
>> >      What are they? Perhaps a stocking/drawers combo for underneath
snug
>> > fitting breeches or pantaloons? Has anyone heard of this item in
>> > descriptions, logs, etc?
>> >
>> >      -Carol Kocian
>> >  _________________________________________________________________
>> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>>
>>
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 21:36:00 1999
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 <000201bf361a$87bb1e60$3cf1143f@pavilion>
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 19:59:39 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Great Fabric Outlet in East Bay!
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: "gail_middleton" <gail_middleton@email.msn.com>
>
>I'm going to have a few hours free in San Francisco on Dec. 8th, and a
>rental car to take myself where I will.  (My flight from Wisconsin gets in
>at 2:45pm and I don't need to be in Modesto until late evening.) How do I
>find these fabric outlets? Are they open into the evenings? I know about
>Britex downtown, but would rather go where there might be some affordable
>wools.

There's a Discount Fabrics in San Francisco (mentioned in the first 
message). You never know what you'll find there. I'm usually looking 
for something pretty particular, and they rarely have had anything i 
need. But then i do early period, so i can't use all those fancy 
brocades, etc. But if you like searching though their bins and 
shelves, and your persona is later period, you may find something 
good. I have had little luck finding pure linen and i don't know 
about their wool selection, since i bought mine at a reduced price 
elsewhere (Stonemountain and Daughter in Berkeley)

Britex is next to heaven, but no bargains. Just the finest 
drool-worthy stuff (and sometimes rude help). It is 4 or 5 stories 
high and could easily eat up all your free time. They have an 
astonishing array of woolens.

Too bad you won't have time to really explore the city. There are so 
many wonderful neighborhoods.

But i strongly suggest you go to SFMOMA (the San Francisco Museum of 
Modern Art). Right now they're having an historic exhibit. It's of 
posters from the Fillmore Theater in its psychedelic days as well as 
furniture and *handmade clothing* from famous rock stars and other 
hippies. It may not be real old, but it sure is historic costume! You 
can find wools in other stores, but this exhibit is only here and 
where better to see it!

I'm waiting until my daughter gets home from college (on Jan 02 
(gulp)) to go, but i've seen photos. WoW! I can't wait.

Lilinah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 23:11:18 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Interesting item on eBay web site item#206603595: WOLF MALE TAILORING MANNEQUIN:model 1983 #39
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999  Pacific Standard Time
Message-Id: <19991124052846.56E7CE17@horridus.ebay.com>
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-Poster: joanj@quiknet.com

I saw this item for sale at eBay and thought that someone within driving distance of central Massachusetts on this list might be interested. The seller will not ship due to the size and weight of this item.

Being in California (and not sewing for men anyway <g>), I won't be bidding on this. 

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

Title of item:	WOLF MALE TAILORING MANNEQUIN:model 1983 #39
Seller:	jrett@tiac.net
Starts:	11/23/99, 17:05:56 PST
Ends:	11/30/99, 17:05:56 PST
Price:	Starts at $1.00
To bid on the item, go to:	http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=206603595


Item Description:		
	WOLF MALE TAILORING MANNEQUIN: model 1983 #39. This is a "collapsible model" with a very heavy cast iron base on casters. He has a 40" chest and a 31" inseam. I used him primarily for display for handwoven church vesture. This is a quality form. As you can see in one of the photos, he is water-damaged in the rear but the cloth covering is not damaged in any way. Water damage, of course, is not visible when mannequin is "dressed". The form swivels at the top and makes it very easy to work on. Because of its size and the weight of the base, I am unwilling to pack this item for shipping so he must be picked up in central Massachusetts or buyer must make their own arrangements for professional packing and shipping. Nonsmoker. I will accept a bank check or money order.   

	Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at http://www.ebay.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 23 23:15:34 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 00:33:11 EST
Subject: H-COST: other Interesting item on eBay 
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

I just love ebay and shop alot on there for fabric.  While browsing today I 
found this fabric.  I am not interested in it but thought maybe someone on 
here would be.  It looks interesting but I am into country music and not 
woodstock.
2 yds 60's Hippie Mod Peace Screen Printed
                                                       Item #202423087
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 00:57:10 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <7F402D0574C3D011ACF000A0C92B23D3025E10EA@nt13pv.apsc.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 23:16:02 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

>(this is for a German 1540's silhouette-{I know!!!  They
> didn't really wear corsets!!!})

   I know everyone is mixed in their opinions but, I think some did.  There
is a German style corset in Patterns 3, a little later date but, it is an
example.

Michelle



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 02:33:24 1999
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 03:11:44 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: early 19thC men's pantyhose?
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Yes.  I have a photo of such a garment in a book called Of Men Only (ISBN
0-87273-053-0), listed as being 'footed drawers'.  Date given is 1795-1800,
and they are in the Brooklyn Museum.

>     Early 19thC men's pantyhose?
>
>     Frame knit silk, they have feet in them and they go up to the waist. 
>There is a cotton or linen waistband with a button in front and a buckle 
>in back for size adjustment. 
>
>     What are they? Perhaps a stocking/drawers combo for underneath snug 
>fitting breeches or pantaloons? Has anyone heard of this item in 
>descriptions, logs, etc?
>
>     -Carol Kocian
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset
In-Reply-To: <00ae01bf364d$cb22cb20$f87cfea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I think we all agree that any German woman wearing such a Spanish
silhouette dress as the ones in JA Patterns 3 would have to wear a corset
like the one shown with them.  Certainly the woman buried in it was wearing
it at the time.  What opinion is divided on is whether or not women in the
period of their mothers/grandmothers wore them.  I don't wear one when I do
that period, having learned a bodice cut which makes me the right shape
without a corset.  Other women wear a corset-garment under their bodices,
even tho the cut of theirs is similar to the cut of mine.  

If I saw a woman wearing such a bodice, politeness would forbid that I ask
whether or not she was wearing a corset.  So what's the problem?

>>(this is for a German 1540's silhouette-{I know!!!  They
>> didn't really wear corsets!!!})
>
>   I know everyone is mixed in their opinions but, I think some did.  There
>is a German style corset in Patterns 3, a little later date but, it is an
>example.
>
>Michelle
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



Kayta
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From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST:  Flipped images
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> Even modern photographs aren't completely safe; they can be flipped
> over in the process of bookmaking (sometimes intentionally, sometimes
> not).

This is true.  I have a friend who made a beautiful copy of the Anne 
of Cleves gown from the Holbein portrait.  Absolutely wonderful 
except the book she used had the picture reversed so the 
costume's a mirror image of the picture.

Still beautiful and immediately recognizable, but even so...


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 12:50:08 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

 
> Teddy,
> 
> Isn't there a diagram showing a 1/2 circle with radiating lines in the
> back of Blanche Payne's book? This should say "men's bases" or
> something like that. It doesn't say "organ pipe pleats".  The
> instructions are on the diagram and are not that detailed. There are
> no step by step instructions printed that I know of.

Hi Julie,

I got hold of that book hoping the "diagram" mentioned showed 
constuction method rather than a flat-pattern draft of the garment.

I suspect (after a lot of off-list clarification - thanks Dietmar) that 
what has confused me is that there appear to be two methods of 
constucting these pleats - same/similar results from the *outside*, 
different look on the inside and I've been trying to visualise one 
result when reading descriptions of the other method.  My 
conclusin is that I'll have to do small mock-ups of both and see 
which I prefer (and *how* similar they turn out)


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "'mandrake@mypad.com'" <mandrake@mypad.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 07:12:24 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

 <<German style corset in Patterns 3>>
Is Patterns 3 a company?  Where does this come from.  

-----Original Message-----
From: Michelle [mailto:mandrake@mypad.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 12:16 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset



-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

>(this is for a German 1540's silhouette-{I know!!!  They
> didn't really wear corsets!!!})

   I know everyone is mixed in their opinions but, I think some did.  There
is a German style corset in Patterns 3, a little later date but, it is an
example.

Michelle



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-Poster: "David W. Rickman" <drickman@state.de.us>

Hello,

Well Kathleen, so that was you! I was the male half of that couple you met 
from Wilmington (the other was my wife, Deborah Kraak). We were deeply 
disappointed as well, most especially when we found out that the exhibit of 
costume in the age of Ingres (1790's - 1860's) was closed down early to make 
way for an exhibit of rock stars' costumes - rather a clear slide from the 
sublime to the ridiculous. Pretty shameful.

David Rickman
drickman@state.de.us

Kathleen wrote:
>When we finally found the entrance to the Costume Institute, it >was blocked 
>off & a guard told us the exhibit had closed early so they could >install the 
>next exhibit! To add insult to injury, there was NO catalogue of >the 
exhibit! 
 >We met another couple from Wilmington, DE, who also had >come to the Met to 
>see the Costume Institute exhibit.
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 10:45:34 -0600 (EST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Flipped images
In-Reply-To: <A4D2EFC38B0@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Wed, 24 Nov 1999, teddy1 wrote:

> > Even modern photographs aren't completely safe; they can be flipped
> > over in the process of bookmaking (sometimes intentionally, sometimes
> > not).
> 
> This is true.  I have a friend who made a beautiful copy of the Anne 
> of Cleves gown from the Holbein portrait.  Absolutely wonderful 
> except the book she used had the picture reversed so the 
> costume's a mirror image of the picture.

After writing my first note, I thought of another area in which to beware
of flopped images: tapestries. Tapestries are woven upside down, based on
a "cartoon" (painted pattern) placed underneath as a guide. An experienced
cartoon painter would reverse his images so that the tapestry would come
out the right way. Not all of them did so perfectly, though -- I've seen
tapestries with backward lettering in them -- either whole words backward,
or a single letter backward in an otherwise correct word! 

So, just because one bit is right, that doesn't mean another bit is.  The
same cartoon artist that managed to write an inscription properly backward
might not take the same trouble for a costume elsewhere in the picture. Or
one artist may have painted the figures, and a different artist may have
filled in the inscriptions on the cartoon. Given the unreliability of
this, I simply wouldn't rely on a tapestry at all for reference on
anything directional -- too much possibility for variation. 

--Robin


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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 07:36:31 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Teddy, I'd be very  interested in your opinions and conclusions of the
results.   I'm not sure if others on the list would be interested, so if you
would email me privately that would be just awesome.

 Please, please please with sugar on top??

Gia/Giacinta
================
Teddy wrote:
I got hold of that book hoping the "diagram" mentioned showed
constuction method rather than a flat-pattern draft of the garment.

I suspect (after a lot of off-list clarification - thanks Dietmar) that
what has confused me is that there appear to be two methods of
constucting these pleats - same/similar results from the *outside*,
different look on the inside and I've been trying to visualise one
result when reading descriptions of the other method.  My
conclusin is that I'll have to do small mock-ups of both and see
which I prefer (and *how* similar they turn out)



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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 08:03:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset
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-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

"Patterns 3" is list shorthand for "Patterns of
Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men
and Women C1560-1620" by Janet Arnold (about US$32+s&h
on Amazon.com).  It's a book. A fabulous book.  The
corset mentioned is part of the burial clothing of a
German Princess (Pfalzgrafin) whose name escapes me at
the moment.  This also happens to be the only intact
16th century corset I've ever seen, and Ms. Arnold
gives the pattern for it on gridded paper in the book,
along with 40 or 50 other patterns from most of the
remaining clothing of the period.

Did I mention this is a fabulous book?  Oh, and
standard disclaimers apply.

--- "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)"
> <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> 
>  <<German style corset in Patterns 3>>
> Is Patterns 3 a company?  Where does this come from.
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michelle [mailto:mandrake@mypad.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 12:16 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset
> 
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> 
> 
> >
> > -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)"
> <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> 
> >(this is for a German 1540's silhouette-{I know!!! 
> They
> > didn't really wear corsets!!!})
> 
>    I know everyone is mixed in their opinions but, I
> think some did.  There
> is a German style corset in Patterns 3, a little
> later date but, it is an
> example.
> 
> Michelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 09:58:14 1999
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From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: H-COST: RE: Costume and Character in the Age of Ingres.
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

For those disappointed not to see the Met exibition "Costume and 
Character in the Age of Ingres" there is a $35 exibition catalog 
listed on the publisher's website  Harry N Abrams.  The 
ISBN(International Standard Book Number for those of you who don't 
know what ISBN means)is 0-8109-6542-9.  It may not be released yet as 
I couldn't locate it at Amazon or bn.com    It is on OCLC though and 
the cataloging record appears complete, rather than the Library of 
Congress pre-publication record that usually appears for books not 
yet published. Just two libraries own the book so far; one of then is 
Library of Congress.  Go figure.

So write Santa, especially those of you that went on pilgrimage all 
the way to the Met to see this exibit. You deserve this in your 
stocking.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 10:17:17 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Could the proper title be: "Secular Goldsmiths' Work
> in Medieval France: a History" by R.W Lightbown?

No, but I'd like to see this one too. I've heard of it, but haven't 
yet found it.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 10:42:51 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 10:54:26 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Actually I would love to hear it too as I am still struggling with how to do
them and perhaps a fresh perspective will help. Thanks,
Carol Ross
-----Original Message-----
From: Gia Gavino-Gattshall <ggavino@serv.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....


>
>-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
>
>Teddy, I'd be very  interested in your opinions and conclusions of the
>results.   I'm not sure if others on the list would be interested, so if
you
>would email me privately that would be just awesome.
>
> Please, please please with sugar on top??
>
>Gia/Giacinta
>================
>Teddy wrote:
>I got hold of that book hoping the "diagram" mentioned showed
>constuction method rather than a flat-pattern draft of the garment.
>
>I suspect (after a lot of off-list clarification - thanks Dietmar) that
>what has confused me is that there appear to be two methods of
>constucting these pleats - same/similar results from the *outside*,
>different look on the inside and I've been trying to visualise one
>result when reading descriptions of the other method.  My
>conclusin is that I'll have to do small mock-ups of both and see
>which I prefer (and *how* similar they turn out)
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 11:07:33 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Pattern 3 was Metal Stays for corset
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 10:13:11 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Gee, I guess I should feel really stupid since I have some of her books
including that one!  I don't have the book in front of me, but I remember
the dress.  I guess I just looked at it and it seemed like a very different
silhouette.  (I should qualify that-as far as I can tell the only real
difference is the pattern needs a front seam that is gently curved at the
very upper part of the bust.  I just copied the line from the pattern I was
using which is from the Period Patterns Company-can't remember the number.)
As you noted it is later-I don't remember how much.  I just assumed that it
had been influenced by English styles - or even was English.   I don't
remember much elaboration on who the people were that wore the clothes,
other than titles.  My ruminations were that even though she was German, did
she live elsewhere, was she married to someone besides a German?  Was she in
attendance to someone like an "Anne of Cleaves" who remained at court even
though she was divorced from Henry.  Or could she have been married to a
German representative at court?  

I am not sure when the distinctive German style(more rounded silhouette,
plastrons, "Cranach" style etc.) 'went away' or even if it did.
-----Original Message-----
From: Valerie Robertson [mailto:ladybriony@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 9:03 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset



-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

"Patterns 3" is list shorthand for "Patterns of
Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men
and Women C1560-1620" by Janet Arnold (about US$32+s&h
on Amazon.com).  It's a book. A fabulous book.  The
corset mentioned is part of the burial clothing of a
German Princess (Pfalzgrafin) whose name escapes me at
the moment.  This also happens to be the only intact
16th century corset I've ever seen, and Ms. Arnold
gives the pattern for it on gridded paper in the book,
along with 40 or 50 other patterns from most of the
remaining clothing of the period.

Did I mention this is a fabulous book?  Oh, and
standard disclaimers apply.

--- "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)"
> <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> 
>  <<German style corset in Patterns 3>>
> Is Patterns 3 a company?  Where does this come from.
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michelle [mailto:mandrake@mypad.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 12:16 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset
> 
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
> 
> 
> 
> >
> > -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)"
> <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> 
> >(this is for a German 1540's silhouette-{I know!!! 
> They
> > didn't really wear corsets!!!})
> 
>    I know everyone is mixed in their opinions but, I
> think some did.  There
> is a German style corset in Patterns 3, a little
> later date but, it is an
> example.
> 
> Michelle
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 11:46:13 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 13:04:59 -0500
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From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Ingres exhibit catalog?
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>When we finally found the entrance to the Costume Institute, it was blocked 
>off... To add insult to injury, there was NO catalogue of the exhibit! 
------------------------------------------------------------
I was web surfing the other day and ran across a reference to the exhibit
catalog for the Age of Ingres show.  It said it had been cancelled and 
there were no further plans to publish the catalog. 

I'm not positive but it might have been on the Worldwide Books site. They 
specialize in selling art exhibition catalogs from around the world. 
Their info. is usually very accurate. 





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 12:14:04 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 13:27:42 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Great Fabric Outlet in East Bay!
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 11/23/1999 5:27:04 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
gail_middleton@email.msn.com writes:

<< How do I
 find these fabric outlets? Are they open into the evenings? I know about
 Britex downtown, but would rather go where there might be some affordable
 wools.
  >>
Call the one in downtown SF 1-415-495-5337.  It's right off the freeway 
coming from Oakland. Easy to find, but no parking. They should be able to 
direct you from your hotel.  Have fun!

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
"All the world's a stage, 
and all the men and women merely players.
They have their exits and their entrances; 
and one man in his time plays many parts."
W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 12:20:00 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 10:28:24 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Me too, me too!

> ----------
> From: 	Gia Gavino-Gattshall[SMTP:ggavino@serv.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, November 24, 1999 7:36 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
> 
> Teddy, I'd be very  interested in your opinions and conclusions of the
> results.   I'm not sure if others on the list would be interested, so if
> you
> would email me privately that would be just awesome.
> 
>  Please, please please with sugar on top??
> 
> Gia/Giacinta
> ================
> Teddy wrote:
> I got hold of that book hoping the "diagram" mentioned showed
> constuction method rather than a flat-pattern draft of the garment.
> 
> I suspect (after a lot of off-list clarification - thanks Dietmar) that
> what has confused me is that there appear to be two methods of
> constucting these pleats - same/similar results from the *outside*,
> different look on the inside and I've been trying to visualise one
> result when reading descriptions of the other method.  My
> conclusin is that I'll have to do small mock-ups of both and see
> which I prefer (and *how* similar they turn out)
> 
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 12:35:17 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Lilinah biti-Anat wrote:
> ...
> shelves, and your persona is later period, you may find something
> good. I have had little luck finding pure linen and i don't know

I just bought linen at Poppy -- they had quite a variety.
It said 100% so it better be pure linen! AND got 3 yds (in
2 pcs.) of off-white linen out of the remnant bin for $3.00/yd!
Stonemountain had quite a selection last time I was in there, too.

Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 13:12:15 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

sorry, didn't mean to send to the whole list.
Now you will all become jealous and move to the Bay Area.
(good luck finding housing!)


Susan Fatemi wrote:
> I just bought linen at Poppy -- they had quite a variety.
> It said 100% so it better be pure linen! AND got 3 yds (in
> 2 pcs.) of off-white linen out of the remnant bin for $3.00/yd!
> Stonemountain had quite a selection last time I was in there, too.
> 
> Susan F.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 14:53:09 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 12:41:45 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Metal Stays for corset
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-id: <383BDD05.2C354577@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Please forgive me for picking a tiny nit, but I seem to be operating in that
mode this week. :-)

Valerie wrote:

> The corset mentioned is part of the burial clothing of a German Princess
> (Pfalzgrafin) whose name escapes me at the moment.

A 'Pfalzgräfin' is a palatine countess. Princess is either Fürstin or Prinzessin.

Sorry, but I've been arguing over German names and titles on another list.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 15:15:43 1999
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-Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com

The following request was sent to me from my niece (8 years old) and I was 
not sure what the answer would be - any hints?

In school we are studying colonial times people.  We've 
been talking about some of the clothes they wore.  I was 
wondering what a stomacher was used for.  My teacher did 
not know.  She thought it might be used for making you 
look thinner but Mom said that is what corsets were 
for.  Mom said you knew a lot about old clothes so I 
thought I'd ask you.

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
So many books, so little time

"Hard work is the accumulation of the easy things you didn't do when you 
should have." 
                -Anonymous

schmitt100@aol.com
**********************
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-Poster: Lola Lee <lola@his.com>


 Valerie Robinson wrote:

> on Amazon.com).  It's a book. A fabulous book.  The
> corset mentioned is part of the burial clothing of a
> German Princess (Pfalzgrafin) whose name escapes me at
>

Dorothea Sabine Maria von Neuberg.  Died in 1598; this information (as well as the
dress) is from Kohl.  Yes, I know that book is somewhat inaccurate.  But the info
was there.  There's also a picture of jewelry found with the dress, as well as other
costumes found in that tomb.

--
Lola J. Lee
Quantum Research Corporation

work  -  llee@qrc.com   http://www.qrc.com/
home  -  lola@his.com   http://www.his.com/~lola/ljl.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 15:47:22 1999
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 04:02:50 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pattern 3 was Metal Stays for corset
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Was she in
>attendance to someone like an "Anne of Cleaves" who remained at court even
>though she was divorced from Henry.  Or could she have been married to a
>German representative at court?  
>
>I am not sure when the distinctive German style(more rounded silhouette,
>plastrons, "Cranach" style etc.) 'went away' or even if it did.

The German dress in 'Pattern 3' was way after Henry VIII.  The rounded
German style went away in the later decades of the 16th century, to be
replaced by a more Spanish un-rounded look.  Some Germans kept a slightly
rounded front even while moving to the more Spanish bodice and sleeves
look.  The Dutch did this rounded-plus-Spanish hybrid too.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
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     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 15:47:24 1999
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 04:07:17 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Metal Stays for corset
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Picky with names department - Kohler.  The book may be inaccurate, but I
keep it for the photographs.  Hey - all you have to do is translate back to
their original silhouettes from the ones the models have...  

BTW, I think the same Pflagrafin's corset appears in Norah Waugh's book
'Corsets and Crinolines'.

>> on Amazon.com).  It's a book. A fabulous book.  The
>> corset mentioned is part of the burial clothing of a
>> German Princess (Pfalzgrafin) whose name escapes me at
>>
>
>Dorothea Sabine Maria von Neuberg.  Died in 1598; this information (as well 
>as the
>dress) is from Kohl.  Yes, I know that book is somewhat inaccurate.  But the 
>info
>was there.  There's also a picture of jewelry found with the dress, as well 
>as other
>costumes found in that tomb.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
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     * )   (((((
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 14:05:27 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 07:36 AM 11/24/1999, "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net> wrote:
Teddy, I'd be very  interested in your opinions and conclusions of the
results.   I'm not sure if others on the list would be interested, so if
you would email me privately that would be just awesome. Please, please
please with sugar on top?? --Gia/Giacinta
>================
              Please add me to your list, Teddy.  Hmm, if you've already
sugar on top, perhaps some good lemon curd under?  Carol / Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 15:53:22 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>, h-costume@indra.net
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

I'm sure that many responses on stomachers will be sent by you wise pros out
there, but I thought I'd add my two cents...I discovered the American Girls
series of books this week, and one of them is an introduction to the world
of colonial America (ca. 1774) from a 9-year-old's point of view.  There are
several pages in "Welcome to Kirsten's World" dedicated to what people wore,
including a wonderful photo or two of gowns with interchangable stomachers.

-----Original Message-----
From: Schmitt100@aol.com [mailto:Schmitt100@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 1:32 PM
To: h-costume@indra.net
Subject: H-COST: (no subject)



-Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com

The following request was sent to me from my niece (8 years old) and I was 
not sure what the answer would be - any hints?

In school we are studying colonial times people.  We've 
been talking about some of the clothes they wore.  I was 
wondering what a stomacher was used for.  My teacher did 
not know.  She thought it might be used for making you 
look thinner but Mom said that is what corsets were 
for.  Mom said you knew a lot about old clothes so I 
thought I'd ask you.

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
So many books, so little time

"Hard work is the accumulation of the easy things you didn't do when you 
should have." 
                -Anonymous

schmitt100@aol.com
**********************
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 15:56:59 1999
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

The corset (stays) were not to make one thinner so much as to mold the body 
into the proper posture.  (Shoulders back and torso straight--no slumping.)  
Someone else might weigh in with more.

I think the stomacher was just to fill the gap in the front.  The fitting of 
a gown was not an exact science, and the gap gave some leeway for fitting.  
It was also, of course, highly decorative.  I hope this is close to being 
correct.

Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 16:12:54 1999
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 14:29:27 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

Please post to the list.  If you simply use Organ pipe pleats-again as the
Subject, anyone who is uninterested can just delete.

I'd be especially interested in getting a full length skirt to fall like the
Cranach ones.  I've a big book of their paintings, several of which show the
ladies sitting down, and the pleats are certainly _not_ stay taped past
crotch level nor do they appear to be made up of trapezoids (no seam lines)
as you can see the skirt smoothed out over their legs.  I've used cartridge
pleats to get the line of _some_ of the dresses very successfully, but I'm
sure there are other ways of doing them, and regional differences.

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Gia Gavino-Gattshall
> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 7:37 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
>
> Teddy, I'd be very  interested in your opinions and conclusions of the
> results.   I'm not sure if others on the list would be
> interested, so if you
> would email me privately that would be just awesome.
>
>  Please, please please with sugar on top??
>
> Gia/Giacinta
> ================
> Teddy wrote:
> I got hold of that book hoping the "diagram" mentioned showed
> constuction method rather than a flat-pattern draft of the garment.
>
> I suspect (after a lot of off-list clarification - thanks Dietmar) that
> what has confused me is that there appear to be two methods of
> constucting these pleats - same/similar results from the *outside*,
> different look on the inside and I've been trying to visualise one
> result when reading descriptions of the other method.  My
> conclusin is that I'll have to do small mock-ups of both and see
> which I prefer (and *how* similar they turn out)
>
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 16:19:00 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 14:32:06 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: oops
In-Reply-To: <383C3ABA.5EA@netwiz.net>
References: <0.13b9204e.256b1ee2@aol.com>
 <000201bf361a$87bb1e60$3cf1143f@pavilion>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 11:21 AM 11/24/1999, Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net> wrote:  sorry,
didn't mean to send to the whole list. Now you will all become jealous and
move to the Bay Area. (good luck finding housing!)
         Not to mention that the "big one" [earthquake] should be coming
any time now... Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 17:00:26 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 18:16:05 EST
Subject: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
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-Poster: NScqweb@aol.com

Hello everyone,

I am working a grouping of embroidery pieces with a number of bee motifs for my classroom (I teach high school ... don't ask how this goes together).  The main sampler has all my kids' initials embroidered in the borders, flowers, and BEES.  I  am looking for 2 things: bee quotes (Barlett's was pretty limited) and information on what bees symbolize, both in needlework history and as in "busy as a bee,"  "industrious virtue" etc. I am hoping to find resources similar to the kinds of stuff we have about the language of flowers.  Bees appear in early embroidery samplers, but I only have 2 books on historical needlework, which are beauteous for patterns but not much real explanation of symbolism.  
I have hunted up some info on bees in Medieval heraldry, and know that bees turn up Colonial American and Victorian needlework, but I don't have real sources, just my impressions. Because of what I teach, these are the historical periods for "bee-ness" in which I am most interested.  

Also,I remember hearing at the time that Sarah "Fergie" Ferguson's wedding dress had a bunch of bees embroidered on the train because of some family connection.  Am I dreaming or how would I go about finding this?

Any ideas, web or text hints etc.  Web searches keep sending me off to read about people's quilting or stitiching groups/bees.  Uff.  This project is a
surprise for my students, that I am hoping to complete over the holidays and have up in my classroom when my young Visionaries come back from school holidays.  I would really appreciate any help on this topic, and will be posting the "Bee Visionary" needlework projects on a web site when they are done, in case you decide you've gotta know what bees have to do with high school junior English class (no, not spelling bees.....).

Thanks for any and all ideas/help/URLS/ etc. (-:

Nancy Shour
hprynne99@aol.com
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 15:18:08 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

> -Poster: NScqweb@aol.com
[...]
> Also,I remember hearing at the time that Sarah "Fergie" Ferguson's wedding
> dress had a bunch of bees embroidered on the train because of some family
> connection.  Am I dreaming or how would I go about finding this?
[...]

I don't know about the rest, but as I recall, there are bees in Sarah
Ferguson's family arms, which is why they appeared on her wedding gown



> MaggiRos
> 
Mairghread-Ros FitzGarret of Desmond
Mary, Countess of Southampton
Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend

and even Maggie Secara
maggiros@dm.net

> ~All my men wear a sword, 
>    or they wear nothing at all.
> 
> 
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To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

I seem to recall that bees were associated with Napolean and that Empire,
showing up in the fabric of furniture and clothing.

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: MAGGIE SECARA [mailto:SECARAM@mainsaver.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 3:18 PM
To: 'h-costume@indra.com'
Subject: RE: H-COST: Symbolism of bees: please help



-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

> -Poster: NScqweb@aol.com
[...]
> Also,I remember hearing at the time that Sarah "Fergie" Ferguson's wedding
> dress had a bunch of bees embroidered on the train because of some family
> connection.  Am I dreaming or how would I go about finding this?
[...]

I don't know about the rest, but as I recall, there are bees in Sarah
Ferguson's family arms, which is why they appeared on her wedding gown



> MaggiRos
> 
Mairghread-Ros FitzGarret of Desmond
Mary, Countess of Southampton
Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend

and even Maggie Secara
maggiros@dm.net

> ~All my men wear a sword, 
>    or they wear nothing at all.
> 
> 
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-Poster: Pelikan <haggis@sirius.com>

> Not to mention that the "big one" [earthquake] should be coming
>any time now... Carol
If you haven't been through one, you don't have the right to joke about 
it.
Nadine Pelikan-rocked, rolled and help pick up the pieces in '89.
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Felicity is the American Girls doll of 1776 and she does have a stomacher on 
her blue gown that she wears to the ball at the Governor's Palace. We based 
the design on a little girls gown in the Colonial Williamsburg collection as 
all her clothes we based on extant garments. She has really helped show girls 
and moms what people wore in the pre-Revolutionary period.

A stomacher was the front triangular piece that hooked or pinned onto the 
body of the gown. Purpose was both functional -easier to drape the body from 
the bust point than meeting at the front. Closed front gowns and jackets 
happen in the late 1770s and 1780s. The stomacher also allowed for a smaller 
piece of fabric that could be changed/decorated/ornamented thus changing and 
updating the gown at a lower cost. 

Sally Queen

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
 _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 15:44:53 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: NScqweb@aol.com
>
>Hello everyone,
>
>I am working a grouping of embroidery pieces with a number of bee motifs
>for my classroom (I teach high school ... don't ask how this goes
>together).  The main sampler has all my kids' initials embroidered in the
>borders, flowers, and BEES.  I  am looking for 2 things: bee quotes
>(Barlett's was pretty limited) and information on what bees symbolize,
>both in needlework history and as in "busy as a bee,"  "industrious
>virtue" etc. I am hoping to find resources similar to the kinds of stuff
>we have about the language of flowers.  Bees appear in early embroidery
>samplers, but I only have 2 books on historical needlework, which are
>beauteous for patterns but not much real explanation of symbolism.
>I have hunted up some info on bees in Medieval heraldry, and know that
>bees turn up Colonial American and Victorian needlework, but I don't have
>real sources, just my impressions. Because of what I teach, these are the
>historical periods for "bee-ness" in which I am most interested.
>
>Also,I remember hearing at the time that Sarah "Fergie" Ferguson's wedding
>dress had a bunch of bees embroidered on the train because of some family
>connection.  Am I dreaming or how would I go about finding this?
>
>Any ideas, web or text hints etc.  Web searches keep sending me off to
>read about people's quilting or stitiching groups/bees.  Uff.  This
>project is a
>surprise for my students, that I am hoping to complete over the holidays
>and have up in my classroom when my young Visionaries come back from
>school holidays.  I would really appreciate any help on this topic, and
>will be posting the "Bee Visionary" needlework projects on a web site when
>they are done, in case you decide you've gotta know what bees have to do
>with high school junior English class (no, not spelling bees.....).
>
>Thanks for any and all ideas/help/URLS/ etc. (-:
>
>Nancy Shour
>hprynne99@aol.com


Napoleon Bonapart was also big on the bee symbol, but I can't remember why.
(They were also little pricks?)  Did I say that in my outside voice?

One of the great ancient Greek thinkers (Aristotle?) kept bees on his farm.
He liked to sit in the sun and watch them work; it helped him to think.

I know; this isn't helping much.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 17:36:19 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Thanks for that correction Sally!  I thought the whole series of books was
great, and am glad to hear someone else's opinion.  I have yet to see the
dolls.

-----Original Message-----
From: SAQUEEN@aol.com [mailto:SAQUEEN@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 3:40 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: (no subject)



-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Felicity is the American Girls doll of 1776 and she does have a stomacher on

her blue gown that she wears to the ball at the Governor's Palace. We based 
the design on a little girls gown in the Colonial Williamsburg collection as

all her clothes we based on extant garments. She has really helped show
girls 
and moms what people wore in the pre-Revolutionary period.

A stomacher was the front triangular piece that hooked or pinned onto the 
body of the gown. Purpose was both functional -easier to drape the body from

the bust point than meeting at the front. Closed front gowns and jackets 
happen in the late 1770s and 1780s. The stomacher also allowed for a smaller

piece of fabric that could be changed/decorated/ornamented thus changing and

updating the gown at a lower cost. 

Sally Queen

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 15:50:18 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Come to think of it, there's an old English country tradition that says you
have to go tell your bees when major events happen in the family, births and
deaths and weddings and so on.  They're very social creatures, after all,
and like other social critters, love to gossip.  Apparently if you fail to
tell them the news, they will leave and not come back, taking their luck
(and yours) with them.



> MaggiRos
> 
> 
Mary Countess of Southampton
Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend
Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid) 
and sometimes even Maggie Secara

http://ren.dm.net

> ~All my men wear a sword, 
>    or they wear nothing at all.
> 
> 
> ----------
> From: 	Lynn Downward[SMTP:ldownward@chori.org]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, November 24, 1999 3:44 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
> 
> 
> -Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
> 
> >-Poster: NScqweb@aol.com
> >
> >Hello everyone,
> >
> >I am working a grouping of embroidery pieces with a number of bee motifs
> >for my classroom (I teach high school ... don't ask how this goes
> >together).  The main sampler has all my kids' initials embroidered in the
> >borders, flowers, and BEES.  I  am looking for 2 things: bee quotes
> >(Barlett's was pretty limited) and information on what bees symbolize,
> >both in needlework history and as in "busy as a bee,"  "industrious
> >virtue" etc. I am hoping to find resources similar to the kinds of stuff
> >we have about the language of flowers.  Bees appear in early embroidery
> >samplers, but I only have 2 books on historical needlework, which are
> >beauteous for patterns but not much real explanation of symbolism.
> >I have hunted up some info on bees in Medieval heraldry, and know that
> >bees turn up Colonial American and Victorian needlework, but I don't have
> >real sources, just my impressions. Because of what I teach, these are the
> >historical periods for "bee-ness" in which I am most interested.
> >
> >Also,I remember hearing at the time that Sarah "Fergie" Ferguson's
> wedding
> >dress had a bunch of bees embroidered on the train because of some family
> >connection.  Am I dreaming or how would I go about finding this?
> >
> >Any ideas, web or text hints etc.  Web searches keep sending me off to
> >read about people's quilting or stitiching groups/bees.  Uff.  This
> >project is a
> >surprise for my students, that I am hoping to complete over the holidays
> >and have up in my classroom when my young Visionaries come back from
> >school holidays.  I would really appreciate any help on this topic, and
> >will be posting the "Bee Visionary" needlework projects on a web site
> when
> >they are done, in case you decide you've gotta know what bees have to do
> >with high school junior English class (no, not spelling bees.....).
> >
> >Thanks for any and all ideas/help/URLS/ etc. (-:
> >
> >Nancy Shour
> >hprynne99@aol.com
> 
> 
> Napoleon Bonapart was also big on the bee symbol, but I can't remember
> why.
> (They were also little pricks?)  Did I say that in my outside voice?
> 
> One of the great ancient Greek thinkers (Aristotle?) kept bees on his
> farm.
> He liked to sit in the sun and watch them work; it helped him to think.
> 
> I know; this isn't helping much.
> 
> LynnD
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 18:24:28 1999
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Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 01:00:42 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

dear list,
 Sarah Junipers Shoe catalogue is now online at my website
 http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk/shoes.htm
  Military metalwork is now online at www.metalwork.supanet.com (this
 will change next week when we domain name but we will be having web
  forwarding so you will still be able to access on these.

 Dawn

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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 17:38:12 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: oops
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 03:32 PM 11/24/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Pelikan <haggis@sirius.com>
>
>> Not to mention that the "big one" [earthquake] should be coming
>>any time now... Carol
>If you haven't been through one, you don't have the right to joke about 
>it.
>Nadine Pelikan-rocked, rolled and help pick up the pieces in '89.
           I've been close enough...And I reserve the right to joke about
it.  It helps keep me sane, thank you. Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 19:59:02 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 21:15:32 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Yes, Napoleon used the bee as a symbol (b for Bonaparte.)  It was one of the 
motifs on Josephine's coronation robes.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 20:13:07 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Traveling to Charlotte NC
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 18:40:55 -0800
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-Poster: "Cathy Harding" <charding@nwlink.com>

Greetings all, (sorry for cross postings for those who are mutliple lists)

I find that I will be traveling for business reasons to the Charlotte NC
area next wednesday.  I may find myself at loose ends on Friday.  What is
there to do in the area (food, fabric or museums are what I have in mind).
I won't have a rental car.

Maeve (cathy Harding)
That Crier editor who is looking for a successor
An Tir (Seattle)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 20:17:53 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Interesting item on eBay web site item#206353079: Sewing Bags & Vintage Patterns
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999  Pacific Standard Time
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-Poster: joanj@quiknet.com

I saw this item for sale at eBay and thought that some of you might be interested.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

Title of item:	Sewing Bags & Vintage Patterns
Seller:	pandora@nemaine.com
Starts:	11/23/99, 10:00:29 PST
Ends:	11/30/99, 10:00:29 PST
Price:	Currently $11.09
To bid on the item, go to:	http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=206353079


Item Description:		
	Three sewing bags, two are hand made, the other is by Roxanne New York.  Included are 20 plus vintage McCalls, Simplicity and Superior patterns from the late 40's and 50's. Shipping $6.00 US. IMPORTANT, Buyer to pay shipping, Insurance is extra if requested, checks and money orders are fine if received in 12 DAYS, after 13 days item will be re-listed or I will notify the next in line at that time I will post the appropriate feedback. Buyer must also confirm the sale via email within 3 days of auction closing. 
   

	Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at http://www.ebay.com
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 19:36:54 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: (new topic) The Costume Institute exhibit
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Lorene Dinsmore wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
> 
>  Kathleen Norvell wrote of her disappointing trip to the Costume Institute,
> and I was reminded that I still, after four trips to the Getty have yet to
> see their infamous collection of illuminations.  Each time I have gone,
> even after calling to be sure they were on exhibit, they were not.
> Fortunately, the trip is only about 2 hours, entrance is free, and I enjoy
> the rest of the museum.
> 
> Lorene

Lorene, it's pretty easy to get yourself on the Getty's mailing list, so
they send you monthly updates.  Right now, nothing good in illuminations
is being shown but they are opening a new show in mid-January featuring
a new book they've acquired.

You can also check out the current exhibits at www.getty.org.

Carolyn (and Getty junkie)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 21:31:03 1999
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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: bees
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 22:46:49 -0500
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

If I remember correctly, Napoloen borrowed the bee imagery from the
Merovingian dynasty (medieval royal family) up to the point of using some
gold bees found in a Merovingian tomb as decoration for his coronation robe.
The source for this is not a costume book so it could be wrong.

allison


From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 15:32:14 -0800
  Subject: RE: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help

- -Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

I seem to recall that bees were associated with Napolean and that Empire,
showing up in the fabric of furniture and clothing.

Heidi

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 21:47:39 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 23:08:48 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

I understood bees to be of the Napoleonic Period.


At 06:16 PM 11/24/99 EST, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: NScqweb@aol.com
>
>Hello everyone,
>
>I am working a grouping of embroidery pieces with a number of bee motifs
for my classroom (I teach high school ... don't ask how this goes
together).  The main sampler has all my kids' initials embroidered in the
borders, flowers, and BEES.  I  am looking for 2 things: bee quotes
(Barlett's was pretty limited) and information on what bees symbolize, both
in needlework history and as in "busy as a bee,"  "industrious virtue" etc.
I am hoping to find resources similar to the kinds of stuff we have about
the language of flowers.  Bees appear in early embroidery samplers, but I
only have 2 books on historical needlework, which are beauteous for
patterns but not much real explanation of symbolism.  
>I have hunted up some info on bees in Medieval heraldry, and know that
bees turn up Colonial American and Victorian needlework, but I don't have
real sources, just my impressions. Because of what I teach, these are the
historical periods for "bee-ness" in which I am most interested.  
>
>Also,I remember hearing at the time that Sarah "Fergie" Ferguson's wedding
dress had a bunch of bees embroidered on the train because of some family
connection.  Am I dreaming or how would I go about finding this?
>
>Any ideas, web or text hints etc.  Web searches keep sending me off to
read about people's quilting or stitiching groups/bees.  Uff.  This project
is a
>surprise for my students, that I am hoping to complete over the holidays
and have up in my classroom when my young Visionaries come back from school
holidays.  I would really appreciate any help on this topic, and will be
posting the "Bee Visionary" needlework projects on a web site when they are
done, in case you decide you've gotta know what bees have to do with high
school junior English class (no, not spelling bees.....).
>
>Thanks for any and all ideas/help/URLS/ etc. (-:
>
>Nancy Shour
>hprynne99@aol.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>

Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 22:11:09 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 22:23:09 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

As I understand it, the Napoleonic bees actually came from Merovingian
graves which had been opened during the Revolution. The Merovingians were
the dynasty which ruled France before Charles Martel (their chamberlain)
seized power form them in a coup. The bees were used as decorations in
the graves and Napoleon took them as a symbol of the power which ruled
France before the ruling houses of Valois/Bourbon usurped their
authority. Of course this begs the question of why the merovingians used
bees as a decorative motif......but there you are.

Karen
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

In QEWUL'D, there is a period woodcut of a skirt being set with the
pleats by hanging it with weights attached to bars going across the width
of the skirt. these bars seem to hold the pleats in place while the
weight provides the means to set them in a relatively permanent way. I
believe that the woodcut is by Jost Amman from his Book of Trades, but as
i don't have the book handy, I could be mistaken.


Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 22:21:24 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 23:38:34 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

I don't know if this is anything like what you are looking for ...

A lesser Greek deity, Aristaeus, was keeper of the bees.

A major Hindu god, Kama, was a beautiful youth armed with a bow and arrows.  
His bow was made of sugar cane;  the string was made from a line of honey 
bees;  each arrow was tipped with a flower.

Nice imagery, that last one.

I just found these quickly on the Web, so there may be more.

Nancy
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To: h-costume@indra.com
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Subject: Re: Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

The roll back cartridge should have the same problem that that regular
cartridge pleats do, there is so much fabric where it attaches to the body
or band that the edge of the skirt stands out at the hips in a shelf rather
than dropping in a steep cone as the ones in the German paintings do... The
bases pattern in Payne eliminates the extra fabric. These may be padded as
well, and I've done some for SCA fighting that have built in pads that go
down to the hip. But they are not visible and the pads are not necessary if
the bases are done with a heavy lining that will hold its shape.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Nov 24 22:43:35 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 20:49:37 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>I'd be especially interested in getting a full length skirt to fall like the
>Cranach ones.  I've a big book of their paintings, several of which show the
>ladies sitting down, and the pleats are certainly _not_ stay taped past
>crotch level

Organ pipe pleats normally aren't stay taped past the crotch level.  And
the pinch seams only need to run 4-6" down from the waist depending how
precise you want them to stay at the bottom of the gown. And there are some
German gowns where women are sitting that clearly show the seams go all the
way to the hem for each pleat too.

>nor do they appear to be made up of trapezoids (no seam lines)

And organ pipe pleats don't need to be cut in trapezoids. They can be cut
in 1/2 or 1/4 circles. But note that this is somewhat moot as there are NO
seamlines showing in most Cranach paintings and we all know that there must
be SOME seamlines somewhere.

As far as I know, the original bases (shown in Payne, Kohler and others)
are the only extant garment with these pleats.  And they work.

Julie Adams


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>
>
>In QEWUL'D, there is a period woodcut of a skirt being set with the
>pleats by hanging it with weights attached to bars going across the width
>of the skirt. these bars seem to hold the pleats in place while the
>weight provides the means to set them in a relatively permanent way. I
>believe that the woodcut is by Jost Amman from his Book of Trades, but as
>i don't have the book handy, I could be mistaken.

Yes. That is exactly how I set organ pipe pleats.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 00:54:33 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.bd30281b.256db36b@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: (no subject)
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 23:27:42 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

> -Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com
>My teacher did
> not know.  She thought it might be used for making you
> look thinner but Mom said that is what corsets were
> for.
> Rebecca Schmitt

Well, it can make you 'look' thinner.  If you use a patterned area, with a
darker solid color on the sides, it would give the illusion. So, they are
both right.
    As a reason, you could just tell her that it was the 'style' of the time
or the in thing. A lot of times, too much information is lost on such a
young mind. Or it just leads to a thousand more questions. How much time do
you have? ;)

Michelle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 01:57:27 1999
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Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 03:13:39 -0500
From: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
To: "INTERNET:h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>

Message text written by INTERNET:h-costume@indra.com
>know that bees turn up Colonial American and Victorian needlework, but I
don't have
real sources, just my impressions. Because of what I teach, these are the
historical periods for "bee-ness" in which I am most interested.<

In Victorian UK, bees were a symbol of industry/industrial endeavour.   
Manchester Town Hall - built by the major industry leaders  in the area in
19thC - is *full of bees!  They feature on the stained glass windows, the
walls and the floor tiles - if memory serves me correctly it is quite an
attractive bee motif.

I know there are a few web sites in which the town hall is featured, with
images etc, but am not sure if the bees are shown.  Maybe another UK list
member can help more with this?
The one web site I have used has lots of images of the Town Hall -
http://www.manchester.gov.uk

Margaret
antique costume & textiles
http://www.artizania.co.uk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 04:02:25 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: bees
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 21:06:28 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

Yep...300 gold bees on the Merovignian coronation robe (and don't try to
make one, it'll kill ya - believe me!)

Napoleon used them to try to support his claim to the throne of that part
of the world. There is a representation of it in the portrait of the
coronation painted by David.

If my feeble brane serves me, there is a picture of a Merovignian statuette
in History of Costume in the West (20,000 Years of Fashion) by Boucher.
Stylised but what the hell, you can see the bees marked on it.

-C.

> If I remember correctly, Napoloen borrowed the bee imagery from the
> Merovingian dynasty (medieval royal family) up to the point of using some
> gold bees found in a Merovingian tomb as decoration for his coronation
robe.
> The source for this is not a costume book so it could be wrong.
> 
> allison

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-Poster: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<b>Come to think of it, there's an old English country tradition that says
you</b>
<br><b>have to go tell your bees when major events happen in the family,
births and</b>
<br><b>deaths and weddings and so on.</b>
<p>This is old southern Appalachian tradition, too.
<p>Melissa</html>

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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees: please help
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 06:35:49 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

I have read that one reason Napoleon liked the bee was because it was a 
symbol of industry... many beings working together for a common goal.  Don't 
remember exactly where, tho'; sorry.

Susannah


>From: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>CC: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
>Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 22:23:09 -0600
>
>
>-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>
>
>As I understand it, the Napoleonic bees actually came from Merovingian
>graves which had been opened during the Revolution. The Merovingians were
>the dynasty which ruled France before Charles Martel (their chamberlain)
>seized power form them in a coup. The bees were used as decorations in
>the graves and Napoleon took them as a symbol of the power which ruled
>France before the ruling houses of Valois/Bourbon usurped their
>authority. Of course this begs the question of why the merovingians used
>bees as a decorative motif......but there you are.
>
>Karen
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Traveling to Charlotte NC
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 06:51:18 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Seeing that Charlotte was once my historical stomping ground...

The Hezekiah Alexander Homesite (just north of Independence Blvd.)is a 
must-see (I did some of the clothing for the docents there), along with the 
Charlotte Museum of History which is on the same site.  Also, Latta 
Plantation in Huntersville, about 10-15 minutes away off of Beattie's Ford 
Road, and the Presbyterian Church nearby, which is one of the original 
"Seven Sisters" churches, all but one of which is still standing with active 
congregations.  The Mint Museum had an interesting shoe exhibit not too long 
ago, but their costume collection was badly compromised by a 
theatrically-inspired "helper" who came in and took early- to mid-19th c. 
dresses apart to make patterns for his own purposes and put them all back 
together with his sewing machine.  Don't even ask me about it; he did it all 
over the state in the mid-to-late 1970s, even at the state museum.  It was 
heartbreaking to see the results.  If you get down to Waxhaw, there are some 
of Jason's & my pieces in the museum collection there:  the soldiers, 
Tarleton's Legion outfit, and some of the female mannekins c. 1760 & 
1860s... but I hear they have changed out some of the stuff so it may no 
longer be there.  James K. Polk Memorial has reproductions of Mrs. Polk's 
Inaugural Ball gown, corset, corded silk petticoat, and the embroidered 
chemise that I did.  They also have an original military uniform c. late 
1840s that Mr. Polk's brother wore in the Mexican War, and Santa Ana's 
battle flag, along with interesting early backwoods exhibits.  At Latta 
Plantation, Mr. Latta's frock coat and linen shirt may still be on the bed 
in the Master Bedroom that I did several years ago also.  Let me know if 
things have changed when you get back... I don't keep much in contact with 
them anymore.  If you like gardens, Wing Haven is a must-see; featured in 
Victoria Magazine not too many years back.  I'm probably forgetting some 
obvious things, but this is what immediately comes to mind, and will 
certainly get you started.

Cheers!
Susannah


>From: "Cathy Harding" <charding@nwlink.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: "Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>, 
>        <h-costume@indra.com>, <sca-cooks@Ansteorra.ORG>
>Subject: H-COST: Traveling to Charlotte NC
>Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 18:40:55 -0800
>
>
>-Poster: "Cathy Harding" <charding@nwlink.com>
>
>Greetings all, (sorry for cross postings for those who are mutliple lists)
>
>I find that I will be traveling for business reasons to the Charlotte NC
>area next wednesday.  I may find myself at loose ends on Friday.  What is
>there to do in the area (food, fabric or museums are what I have in mind).
>I won't have a rental car.
>
>Maeve (cathy Harding)
>That Crier editor who is looking for a successor
>An Tir (Seattle)
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 08:40:15 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: bees
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< 300 gold bees on the Merovignian coronation robe  >>

Could you please be so kind as to post the reference for this information?  I 
would appreciate it very much.  Thanks.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 09:20:00 1999
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From: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: bees
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 09:38:53 -0600
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-Poster: "Mary-Gayle Jany" <talk2meg@midwest.net>

     I don't think anyone has mentioned The Complete Guide to Heraldry's
version concerning bees in heraldry, so the following may be useful.

   CGH says that the bee is the "most usually met" insect in heraldry.
    It occurs "in the arms of Dore, Beatson, Abercromby, Smauel, and
Sewell, either as a charge or as a crest".  In various other poses, it also
appears in the arms of Ferguson, Kettle of Wolverhampton, Gwatkin, and
Rowe.
     CGH also says that Napoleon "adopted them under the impression, which
may or may not be correct, that they had at one time been the badge of
Childeric, father of Clovis.  The whole story connected with their
assumption by Napoleon has been a matter of much controversy...." and
"Napoleon changed the fleur-de-lis upon the chief in the arms of Paris to
golden bees upon a chief of gules, and a chief azure, seme of bees or, was
added as indicative of their rank to the arms of "Princes-Grand-Dignitaries
of the Empire."

     All the above information is on page 260 of *The Wordsworth Complete
Guide to Heraldry," ISBN 1-8526-365-6.

     Hope it helps.
Meg
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 09:40:30 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: cranach skirts
In-Reply-To: <NDBBJDHCCMCECNKOPKNDAEFOCIAA.wandapease@bigfoot.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


I use rolled pleats to achieve a Cranach skirt--there's a description of
rolled pleats (and stacked pleats, which can achieve a similar effect) at
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/pleats/

Drea

 On Wed, 24 Nov 1999, Wanda
Pease wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
> 
> Please post to the list.  If you simply use Organ pipe pleats-again as the
> Subject, anyone who is uninterested can just delete.
> 
> I'd be especially interested in getting a full length skirt to fall like the
> Cranach ones.  I've a big book of their paintings, several of which show the
> ladies sitting down, and the pleats are certainly _not_ stay taped past
> crotch level nor do they appear to be made up of trapezoids (no seam lines)
> as you can see the skirt smoothed out over their legs.  I've used cartridge
> pleats to get the line of _some_ of the dresses very successfully, but I'm
> sure there are other ways of doing them, and regional differences.
> 
> Regina Romsey
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> > Behalf Of Gia Gavino-Gattshall
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 7:37 AM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
> >
> >
> >
> > -Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
> >
> > Teddy, I'd be very  interested in your opinions and conclusions of the
> > results.   I'm not sure if others on the list would be
> > interested, so if you
> > would email me privately that would be just awesome.
> >
> >  Please, please please with sugar on top??
> >
> > Gia/Giacinta
> > ================
> > Teddy wrote:
> > I got hold of that book hoping the "diagram" mentioned showed
> > constuction method rather than a flat-pattern draft of the garment.
> >
> > I suspect (after a lot of off-list clarification - thanks Dietmar) that
> > what has confused me is that there appear to be two methods of
> > constucting these pleats - same/similar results from the *outside*,
> > different look on the inside and I've been trying to visualise one
> > result when reading descriptions of the other method.  My
> > conclusin is that I'll have to do small mock-ups of both and see
> > which I prefer (and *how* similar they turn out)
> >
> >
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 09:23:04 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees: please help
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

That is what I was told when I was in France, but I also do not have a
reference for it.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees: please help
>Date: Thu, Nov 25, 1999, 6:35 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>
>I have read that one reason Napoleon liked the bee was because it was a 
>symbol of industry... many beings working together for a common goal. 
Don't 
>remember exactly where, tho'; sorry.
>
>Susannah
>
>
>>From: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>
>>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>>To: h-costume@indra.com
>>CC: h-costume@indra.com
>>Subject: Re: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
>>Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 22:23:09 -0600
>>
>>
>>-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>
>>
>>As I understand it, the Napoleonic bees actually came from Merovingian
>>graves which had been opened during the Revolution. The Merovingians were
>>the dynasty which ruled France before Charles Martel (their chamberlain)
>>seized power form them in a coup. The bees were used as decorations in
>>the graves and Napoleon took them as a symbol of the power which ruled
>>France before the ruling houses of Valois/Bourbon usurped their
>>authority. Of course this begs the question of why the merovingians used
>>bees as a decorative motif......but there you are.
>>
>>Karen
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 12:33:56 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: early 19thC men's pantyhose?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Could they be dancer's tights?

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 13:12:33 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 06:40 PM 11/24/1999 EST, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com
>
>Felicity is the American Girls doll of 1776 and she does have a stomacher on 
>her blue gown that she wears to the ball at the Governor's Palace. We based 
>the design on a little girls gown in the Colonial Williamsburg collection as 
>all her clothes we based on extant garments. She has really helped show girls 
>and moms what people wore in the pre-Revolutionary period.
>

Sally, if I may ask, what was your involvement with the American Girl Dolls? 

 I love this product line, I think they're designing expressly for the
little girl I was. Dolls with historical costumes AND books that go with
them!  Craft kits!  Furniture!  A "stage a play" package!"

  I'm sure that they're going to have a strong influence on the next
generation of costumers.

the only thing I don't like about them, (aside from the price)  is that
"American" means they don't do an Elizabethan one.  I went to town making a
gown for my cousin's doll and had a blast.  I'm considering, when I do my
children's Elizabethan pattern, including a pattern for a dress sized for an
AG doll.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 13:28:06 1999
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From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199911251849.KAA20847@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: H-COST: Silk Ribbon Embroidery
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 12:43:13 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

Does anyone happen to know off-hand when silk ribbon embroidery became
popular? A web search only brings me to sites trying to sell supplies.

Thanks,
Heather

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 13:31:18 1999
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From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199911251928.LAA24318@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: (no subject)
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

Margo,

Do the doll pattern. Little girls love dolls that are dressed like them.

>I'm considering, when I do my
> children's Elizabethan pattern, including a pattern for a dress sized for
an
> AG doll.

Heather

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 14:17:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 12:30:28 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: bees
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 06:39 AM 11/25/1999 -0500, you wrote: 
>
> Come to think of it, there's an old English country tradition that says you 
> have to go tell your bees when major events happen in the family, births
and 
> deaths and weddings and so on. 
>
> This is old southern Appalachian tradition, too. 
>
> Melissa 

                 And Irish--I was copycataloging a biography/memoir earlier
this year that mentioned the custom...Carol

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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: (no subject)
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
said:
  I'm considering, when I do my
>children's Elizabethan pattern, including a pattern for a dress sized for
an
>AG doll.

That would be a wonderful idea!!!  I was up last night making Josephina
outfits for my stepdaughter's dolls, and would love to make them
Elizabethans!!  Count me as one of the ones eagerly awaiting your pattern.
Will it be ready soon??  Please???

-Megan

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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199911251849.KAA20847@apollo.directcon.net> <000d01bf3785$b2afb1a0$c8dfcccf@Flohrschutz>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk Ribbon Embroidery
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 20:57:00 -0000
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


> -Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
>
> Does anyone happen to know off-hand when silk ribbon embroidery became
> popular? A web search only brings me to sites trying to sell supplies.
>
Try a (uk) search on
J.J.Cash
Coventry Silk Industry
 Somewhere there should be  something on the growing of mulberry trees in the
1600 and the start of the silk industry in factories circa 1720/50
There is a huge machine in the mueseul there that weaves pictures into three
hundred ribbons at a time fro c 1860 ( they cant move it)
°°
Dave
L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, <scA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Subject: H-COST: mail problems...yet again! 
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 13:24:46 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BF3748.7120A100
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 To all my buddies on h-cost and SCA-garb,
    During a 15 hour period, between 9:44 on 11/23 and 1:34 on 11/24 I =
didn't get any mail, list or personal. I have had all the problems I can =
take with the 'mypad.com' account that I can take and I am not =
recommending Friendly Email to anyone.   I have sent requests to the =
list manager to switch my subscription to Mandrake@Celtic.com=20
   If anyone sent me private email, please resent it to this new =
address.  I am sorry about the inconvience. =20
Thanks!
Michelle


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;To all my buddies on h-cost and =
SCA-garb,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; During a 15 hour period, between =
9:44 on=20
11/23 and 1:34 on 11/24 I didn't get any mail, list or personal.&nbsp;I =
have had=20
all the problems I can take with the 'mypad.com' account that I can take =
and I=20
am not recommending Friendly Email to anyone.&nbsp;  I have sent =
requests to the=20
list manager to switch my subscription to <A=20
href=3D"mailto:Mandrake@Celtic.com ">Mandrake@Celtic.com =
</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; If anyone sent me private email, please =
resent it=20
to this new address.&nbsp; I am sorry about the inconvience.&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Michelle</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BF3748.7120A100--

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk Ribbon Embroidery
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Heather wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
> 
> Does anyone happen to know off-hand when silk ribbon embroidery became
> popular? A web search only brings me to sites trying to sell supplies.
> 
> Thanks,
> Heather
> 
> Not sure how early it goes but it was a bery popular pastime in the 1st half of the 18thc

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 17:15:58 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: costume list <H-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: 18th c Q & FO
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

I've been reading a book on 18thc clothing recently, and I note that
informal gowns of printed linen were quite popular, especially later in
the century. Anyway, so I have some nice plain green linen, and I was
wondering if that would be acceptable for an informal gown. The book
didn't say much about plain linen.

Anyway, I recently finished something I've been working on for a little
while, a 1660's gown, and I thought I'd boast about it because it's
probably the best thing I've made to date. *grin*
The gown is made of purple and blue shot silk taffeta. The bodice and
sleeves are lined with rose coloured linen, and the bodice is interlined
with light cotton drill (to which the bone casings are sewn). I used
solid plastic boning (not rigilene), because I was too impatient to
wait for mail-order metal boning. The plastic does a pretty good job,
my only gripe is that it twists on the curvy seams. 
 The skirt is made from 4 widths of fabric, cartridge pleated on and
worn over a pink silk petticoat. The sleeves are elbow-length, split
down the front seam, and caught together with silver and red jewelled
buttons. 
 I adapted the pattern for the bodice and boning from a jacket and gown of 
this era described in "The Cut of Women's Clothes 1620-1930". All up it
took me about two months to make and is entirely handsewn. 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 03:17:55 -0600
From: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk Ribbon Embroidery
References: <199911251849.KAA20847@apollo.directcon.net> <000d01bf3785$b2afb1a0$c8dfcccf@Flohrschutz> <383E3661.2DB9@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Sheridan Alder <alderweb@vaxxine.com>


--------------0CB055C9DC3EC5D14A13D414
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I was in Britain recently and at some point in our "museum marathon" saw a Regency gown
with ribbon embroidery combined with silk floss embroidery. I almost missed that it was silk
ribbon, it was so fine. A light, delicate floral pattern with a neo-classical mood, if I
recall.
I think the flowers within the design were ribbon, and the rest floss.

Unfortunately, I'm damned if I can remember where! (Remind one's self - always keep notes!)
It may have been during our charge through the Costume Museum in Bath - our wretched tour
only gave us two hours in Bath! (Told my husband we should just get a rail pass, but did he
listen?) It was almost depressing how information saturated you become! I couldn't squeeze in
any more.

I remember dreading that, during the recent silk ribbon frenzy a few years back, that people
would bust out all over with really bad silk ribbon embroidery stuff on their kit, the way
folks
usually embrace anything that's vaguely "oldy-timey" or perceived as such, whether it was
actually
done during the period or not (1970's wooden salad bowls come to mind). But at the same time I
thought, who knows! maybe it was used, and you are being surly.

Wrong again - never say never!

Surly but chastened Sheridan

--------------0CB055C9DC3EC5D14A13D414
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
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<HTML>
<FONT SIZE=-1>I was in Britain recently and at some point in our "museum
marathon" saw a Regency gown</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>with ribbon embroidery combined with silk floss embroidery.
I almost missed that it was silk</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>ribbon, it was so fine. A light, delicate floral pattern
with a neo-classical mood, if I recall.</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>I think the flowers within the design were ribbon, and
the rest floss.</FONT><FONT SIZE=-1></FONT>

<P><FONT SIZE=-1>Unfortunately, I'm damned if I can remember where! (Remind
one's self - always keep notes!)</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>It may have been during our charge through the Costume
Museum in Bath - our wretched tour</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>only gave us two hours in Bath! (Told my husband we should
just get a rail pass, but did he</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>listen?) It was almost depressing how information saturated
you become! I couldn't squeeze in</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>any more.</FONT><FONT SIZE=-1></FONT>

<P><FONT SIZE=-1>I remember dreading that, during the recent silk ribbon
frenzy a few years back, that people</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>would bust out all over with really bad silk ribbon embroidery
stuff on their kit, the way folks</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>usually embrace anything that's vaguely "oldy-timey"
or perceived as such, whether it was actually</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>done during the period or not (1970's wooden salad bowls
come to mind). But at the same time I</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=-1>thought, who knows! maybe it was used, and you are being
surly.</FONT><FONT SIZE=-1></FONT>

<P><FONT SIZE=-1>Wrong again - never say never!</FONT><FONT SIZE=-1></FONT>

<P><FONT SIZE=-1>Surly but chastened Sheridan</FONT></HTML>

--------------0CB055C9DC3EC5D14A13D414--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 19:32:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 20:48:51 EST
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

In a message dated 11/25/99 2:31:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< Sally, if I may ask, what was your involvement with the American Girl 
Dolls? 
  >>
Hi, Margo,

I headed the team that designed Felicity's first six outfits. We started in 
1989 on contract to Pleasant Company. In the beginning of the American Girls 
Series, Pleasant Rowland, CEO of Pleasant Company, contracted for the 
clothing designs for Kristen (Joan Severa at State Historical Society of 
Wisconsin), Molly (a costume historian in the Boston area), and Samantha (do 
not know who designed these). The series was so popular that they added a 
costume historian position within the company and the remaining clothes were 
designed in-house. Their designers continued to work closely with extant 
garments in museum collections. 

We (Costume Design Center at Colonial Williamsburg) did the clothing for the 
tea party that brought 10,000 girls and their families to CW for the 
introduction of Felicity. It was a great experience and Pleasant Rowland was 
great to work with. Anyone in the Madison, Wisconsin area should consider 
working for her at Pleasant Company.

They are working on a new doll but don't know the date.

And yes, I believe they have had a major impact on the next generation for 
the serious study of costume and culture. 

Happy Thanksgiving everyone,
Sally

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Nov 25 20:45:38 1999
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Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 19:03:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: So what is a Palatine Countess?
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-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

Thank you, Dietmar; I appreciate the correction.  Now,
if you could explain to this idiot American just how a
Palatine Countess differs from a regular Countess, she
would be eternally in your debt.

-Valerie 

--- Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> Please forgive me for picking a tiny nit, but I seem
> to be operating in that
> mode this week. :-)
> 
> Valerie wrote:
> 
> > The corset mentioned is part of the burial
> clothing of a German Princess
> > (Pfalzgrafin) whose name escapes me at the moment.
> 
> A 'Pfalzgräfin' is a palatine countess. Princess is
> either Fürstin or Prinzessin.
> 
> Sorry, but I've been arguing over German names and
> titles on another list.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Dietmar
> 
> 
> "Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
>  over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 26 07:31:03 1999
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Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 08:48:02 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: So what is a Palatine Countess?
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

The Count Palatine of the Rhine was one of the seven electors of the Holy 
Roman Emperor, so I assume the Palatine duchess would be his consort.  I 
can't find out much about the position, though.
Ann Wass
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From Cheryl@sessionware.com  Fri Nov 26 11:18:15 1999
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From: Hand-Fan Webmaster <Cheryl@Hand-Fan.ORG>
To: 
Cc: "'dumodebur@aol.com'" <dumodebur@aol.com>
Subject: FAN-TASTIC Fan Auction on Nov 28!
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 09:42:08 -0800
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I just received this auction catalogue in today's mail, and wanted to let
you know about this fan auction right away!  There are a large variety of
fans to this auction, they span a variety of continents, time periods and
styles...

Dumousset - Deburaux
Paris Auction
November 28
203 fans (eventails) up for auction

For details, click on the URL below:

http://www.gazette-drouot.com/annonceurs/dumousset-deburaux/evenement.html#a
ncre1329427

Please note:
If you have any questions about this auction, please contact the auction
house at: dumodebur@aol.com

Please do not contact me-I have no further information about this auction.

You are receiving this email because you signed up for the mailing list of
The International Fan Collector's Guild.  If you don't want to receive these
occasional updates, drop me a line.  As always, your email address is never
sold, emailed, posted, traded, or sent anywhere without your permission.

Cheryl
_______________________________
Cheryl Melnick, Webmistress
International Fan Collector's Guild
webmistress@hand-fan.org
* 408-559-7799 x 222
http://www.hand-fan.org

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Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 11:35:03 -0800
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Subject: H-COST: Web site update
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

We just updated our web site for vintage and historic dance:

http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm

Feel free to take a look!

Allan Terry



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Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 16:31:13 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: bees
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



If you're working with high school students, you probably don't want "where 
the bee sucks, there suck I" (or whatever the exact quote is)! Even if it is 
pretty. The only other quote I can think of is "How doth the little busy bee 
improve each shining hour . . ." which is the original made fun of in Lewis 
Carrol's "How doth the little crocodile . . .". Believe it or not I recently 
saw the whole thing on a mass-market tapestry. It's pretty dreadful, and 
dreadfully moral. But there you are.

I believe that bees have been symbols of hard work and industry for numerous 
centuries. They certainly are common in heraldry.

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 26 19:38:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 20:54:06 -0500
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Karen R Bergquist wrote about a method in Queen E's wardrobe.

When I visited the Norwegian history museum this summer, there was a
display on clothing.  The "traditional" (150 year-old) wool clothing for
women had pleats that fell the whole length of the skirt; the display
said that it was sewn up into pleats with (basically) basting stitches,
then wetted down and it stayed in the pleats and with the stitching for
a year before it was ready to have the stitches cut and be worn.  Could
the Cranach skirts be similar?

cv
--
The International Space Station has been in orbit for a year now.  It
will first be inhabited in March of 2000, and completed in 2004.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 26 19:38:42 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Both men and women in the Devonshire Hunting Tapestries (V&A) have
sleeves in which one is embellished and the other just (Just!) the fancy
brocade.  This would be England, appx. 1420.

--
Out of the wizard was beat the stuffing.
  -- Bored of the Rings

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 26 20:33:43 1999
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Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 18:51:42 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>Karen R Bergquist wrote about a method in Queen E's wardrobe.
>
>When I visited the Norwegian history museum this summer, there was a
>display on clothing.  The "traditional" (150 year-old) wool clothing for
>women had pleats that fell the whole length of the skirt; the display
>said that it was sewn up into pleats with (basically) basting stitches,
>then wetted down and it stayed in the pleats and with the stitching for
>a year before it was ready to have the stitches cut and be worn.  Could
>the Cranach skirts be similar?
>
>cv

I think they are similar in that part of the process is tacking them
together, steaming, weighting and hanging them.  In the 16th c Germany and
Switzerland there were also a lot of skirts knife-pleated all the way down.
I think that basting them up tightly would probably need to be done for
that. In both cases, some hanging, wetting, and weighting would make a
difference.

I normally hang my organ-pipe pleats for several weeks pinned to the bodice
or doublet before heming them and attaching them. I weight the bottoms and
steam and spritz them every day. This solves two issues. The first is that
the skirts are so heavy they tend to stretch the doublet tops down up to
about 1" or more. This helps get the stretch out first.  The other is that
the skirt is cut on the round, so there is a lot of bias. This helps make
sure the bias is stretched as it will before fixing the hem.  I pin stay
tapes all around to keep the pleats tight during this process.  I often sew
on the guards and hang it some more to set the pleats in the guards better
before attaching. If the guards are not set properly the pleats poof out in
very large arcs, which are not at all what you see in Cranach gowns.

I use less stay tapes on the final skirt. The lowest stay tape is about at
the crotch.

Many of the folk costumes in the Bayerishes Museum had very similar
construction techniques and styles as seen in 16th c costumes. For the most
part, different fabrics were used and the 18th c ones had a very stiff
stomacher matching the fashions of the time. But many of the same
components were the same as the 16th c German gowns. So I wouldn't be
surprised if the Norwegian traditional costumes also used older techniques.
Did you see the Olympics in Sweden with the parade of folk costumes? Many
could have come right out of 16th c German and Flemish woodcuts.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Nov 26 23:28:35 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Those pesky pleats
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 22:55:38 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I was just on the Costume College 2000 Web site, and it looks as though
there may be a class in Organ Pipe Pleating.  That will be the first thing
I sign up for.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 27 10:45:23 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Costume college
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


> I was just on the Costume College 2000 Web site,
>
> Kathlene

Kathlene,
   Would you mind posting the address for this site?  I have been wanting to
go and, two years in a row, managed to miss it.  This is the one in
California, right?

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 27 13:12:20 1999
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From: Susan Courney <bd927@scn.org>
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-Poster: Susan Courney <bd927@scn.org>

Hi,

I saw Sleepy Hollow last night.  Has anyone else seen it?  Did anyone
recognize the dress the stepmother has on in the last scene?  It's from a
pre-raphealite picture.  I can't remember which one, but I know that the
pre-raphealite got the idea of that dress from a portrait of (Isabella?
Beatrice?) d'este. (the portrait is in Hampton court.)  AS this was taking
place in 1799, I figure the dress is either 2 centuries late or one
century early.  Nice dress tho.  I'll have to see if I can find which
picture it was to see if the subject relates to the scene at all.  

All the other clothing I saw seemed at least remotely period.  The only
dress I wasn't sure about was the blue dress the boy's mother had on.  It
had odd folded back bits just above the neckline. 

I like the movie, but then I liked the other tim burton movies as well.
Besides, it was a grab "drama" I could go to with my boyfriend ;-)

Susan Courney  

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Nov 27 16:23:43 1999
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Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 14:43:38 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Symbolism of bees:  please help
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 03:32 PM 24/11/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>I seem to recall that bees were associated with Napolean and that Empire,
>showing up in the fabric of furniture and clothing.
>

oh... this reminds me. THe other day I was watching a home decorating show,
and a lady had upholstered a napoleonic sofa with a dark fuschia fabric
that had bees woven in it. She said that it was a silk brocade. Would this
have been something you would have seen in that time era? Not necessarily a
sofa, but I was imagining a gown or waistcoat made out of that material..
it was so gorgeous..

Kris
hoping to find something similar in the fabric hunt after Christmas :]

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Subject: Re: H-COST: sleepy hollow costume
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/27/1999 2:31:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, bd927@scn.org 
writes:

<< I saw Sleepy Hollow last night.  Has anyone else seen it?  >>
I wondered when someone was gonna bring this up. 

No, it's not accurate at all really. The women are mostly 1770s& 1780s, the 
men 1740 to 1790s.... but it's a comic book. The sets are all sound stagy. I 
love it thought, the deliberate stylization. It could've even gone further. 
[there's a great scene where the fog sorta reaches out and snuffs several 
torches at once. I wanted more of that!] The costumes are all stylized in a 
deliberate way. The sets are grey....the fog is grey......the trees are 
black....the leaves are grey...grey...black.... grey. But the silks and wools 
of the clothes glow subtly out of the greyness. Anything bold or striking is 
a sign post: this character is supernatural and important. [the girls in the 
forest...the mother] It's a beautiful piece of theatre.
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

So- has any one else seen this movie? What'd they think of the costumes? It's 
a little before my time period, so I knew nothing. I thought Faye Dunaway's 
headdresses were AWESOME, even if they weren't accurate. 

The movie itself? Very disturbing. I'm not sure what I think...I'll have to 
ask the voices in my head ;-)

-Alison Stacy
ACStacy@cc.owu.edu
AliaClaire@aol.com
Ohio Wesleyan University
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 28 01:38:47 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

I just saw Sleepy Hollow tonight & was impressed-with the movie as a whole more
than the costuming specifically. Great overall art direction.
I agree that while the period costume styling is a tad off, the colorful fabric
of the women's gowns really pops out amongst the greys & dark colors.
Plus, it is supposed to be 1799 in a fairly remote Dutch farming community in
upstate NY so maybe they actually wouldn't be dressed at the height of fashion of
the day. Some of the gowns seemed to have a full-backed bustle effect,
specifically Christina Ricci character's riding habit. And I wondered why none of
the women rode aside. Maybe they just didn't have the proper saddles? All of the
Ricci costumes were pretty neat especially the habit & the wonderful cloak she
wore over it.
At least the lace trims weren't overtly machine made.
The judge's cuffs looked like Beds lace while the others looked tamboured.
Sorry, lace is my thing.

See this movie-it's real neat.
My twopence.
~Lisa


> Anything bold or striking is a sign post: this character is supernatural and
> important. [the girls in the forest...the mother] It's a beautiful piece of
> theatre.

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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

Am I missing something, or is it real slow out there-you guys are usually
much more prolific!

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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



----- Original Message -----

> -Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
>
> Am I missing something, or is it real slow out there-you guys are usually
> much more prolific!

Some kind of holiday going on Transpondiawise , I seem to recollect--- might
have something to do with Turkey but I am not sure if it is the country or the
bird. This may account for things?
I am not over informed about holidays in the colonies though . I was led to
believe that the Oztraleans had Christmas in the Summer , however a friend
visitted last June and saw no signs whatsoever.
The quietness from the UK is due to the national baited breath of despair as
it seems that our Queen Mother is likely to reach 100 long before any of our
batsmen.
Dave>
> L.D.Mundy
Editor.Heritage Matters
_________________________________________________________________


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From: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
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-Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>


>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

>No, it's not accurate at all really. The women are mostly 1770s& 1780s, the 
>men 1740 to 1790s.... 

 the website said it takes place in 1799 and that the costumes are several years behind the current for that time because they are country people.

http://www3.sleepyhollowmovie.com/film/production/prod_notes.html

that should have some information about it.


---
Ever Yours,
Ginnaphure

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
ICQ# 41340093
AIM: Ginnaphure



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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>


> At least the lace trims weren't overtly machine made.
> The judge's cuffs looked like Beds lace while the others looked
tamboured.
> Sorry, lace is my thing.

Wasn't the first lace machine invented about 1760?

Kathlene
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-Poster: Dianne Kristoff <vestido@mb.sympatico.ca>

I know that I have this information ....somewhere, but as things go, you
never can find it when you want it.  I'm looking for the approximate
weight of the wardrobe of the 18th century woman when assembled.  The
times I'm looking at are the beginning of the century, mid century and
the end of the century.  Hope someone has the answer on the
list....foolish me, of course someone does.

Smiles,
Dianne

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/28/1999 10:53:45 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
ginnaphure@email.women.com writes:

<<  the website said it takes place in 1799 and that the costumes are several 
years behind the current for that time because they are country people.
  >>

Why is it assumed nearly always that wealthy people, because they live in the 
country, dress 10 to 20 years behind the times? Rubbish! 2 to 3 years behind 
maybe....but if they are rich and NYC is within traveling distance, why 
wouldn't the young women be in fashion?
The inaccuracies of the film are for style. That's fine! Why try to 
historically rationalize everything?
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costume college
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 10:14:26 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Michelle

>    Would you mind posting the address for this site? 

www.costumecollege.org

> I have been wanting to
> go and, two years in a row, managed to miss it.  This is the one in
> California, right?

Yes, Van Nuys, CA!  This will be my first time too.  And I am really
enthused about it.

Kathlene


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 28 11:17:13 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sleepy hollow costume
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 10:45:08 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

OK, I guess that I will open this can of worms.

I have not seen Sleepy Hollow yet,  I love Tim Burton films and it on my
list.  One of the reasons I like his films, is that he so skillful at
putting up on the screen what is in his head.  Even if I didn't know it was
a Burton film, it would not take more than 5 or 10 minutes for me to figure
it out.  It would be even quicker if Danny Elfman was doing the score. 
Their visual and auditory styles were meant for each other.

Sleepy Hollow is a story, a fable, fiction.  It could take place anywhere,
anytime, that the storyteller wants to set it.  As far as I know, this
movie is not depicting itself as 'historical'.  Shouldn't we base our
critiques it on its merits as a Tim Burton, horror film?  So, were the
costumes scary?  Or did they add to the scariness of the film?  Were they
up to the typical Burton vision?

Sometimes I think we need to widen our focus when it comes to movies.

Kathlene


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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 11/28/99 10:36:45 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
khopkins@cyberhighway.net writes:

<< So, were the
 costumes scary?  Or did they add to the scariness of the film?  Were they
 up to the typical Burton vision?
 
 Sometimes I think we need to widen our focus when it comes to movies.
  >>
Bingo!  The look created by this movie is a visual feast.  Burton is the 
master of Gothic Art.  The movie should be enjoyed for the mood and look that 
is created.  I think if you start nit-picking, you're going to lose the 
experience.  My favorite part has nothing to do with costumes.  It's the 
scene where the head rolls between Ichabod's legs and then is speared like an 
olive by the horseman as he rides by.  My 2 cents worth.  Cheryl Odom (loved 
the costumes and didn't really care or pay attention to historical accuracy)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 28 14:30:26 1999
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Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 21:08:44 +0100
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

Sorry about this, if the subject is discussed to an end, but i just
wondered if the lady who married Louis XIV' brother Liselotte Kurfürstin
von Pfaltz was also called Palatine?
I read her memoires some years ago, very interresting stuf!
Bjarne in Copenhagen, who just came back from the cinema watching Tea
with Mussolini, a gorgeous movie!
They showed some clips from a new movie coming soon about Joan of Arc,
it looked very nice, has anybody seen it over in America?, it is not
showed here until January, there must be much stuff here for the
medieval interrested people!


--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html




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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

About weight of a dress, there is a dress in the Danish Nationalmuseum,
a costume from 1695-1709, they are not sure about the year, it is a
mantua with a long train made in brocade of  silk and thick goldthreads.
It consists of a big skirt with 4 widths of fabric and a mantua and
stomacher the weight of the entire dress is: 17 kg.
Being laced in a tight corset, and a small bustle this dress must have
been a killing machine.

Bjarne Drews in Copenhagen.

--


Leif Drews
Åboulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
Åboulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 28 15:08:25 1999
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Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 13:30:57 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: Palatine
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I have no idea what the costumes are like but from all the reviews I have
read it is really bad.  And it has a lot of good actors in it too.  Somehow
it seems to have missed the boat.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: Palatine
>Date: Sun, Nov 28, 1999, 12:08 PM
>

>
>-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>
>Sorry about this, if the subject is discussed to an end, but i just
>wondered if the lady who married Louis XIV' brother Liselotte Kurfürstin
>von Pfaltz was also called Palatine?
>I read her memoires some years ago, very interresting stuf!
>Bjarne in Copenhagen, who just came back from the cinema watching Tea
>with Mussolini, a gorgeous movie!
>They showed some clips from a new movie coming soon about Joan of Arc,
>it looked very nice, has anybody seen it over in America?, it is not
>showed here until January, there must be much stuff here for the
>medieval interrested people!
>
>
>--
>
>
>Leif Drews
>Åboulevard 5, 3 th
>1635  København V
>
>Bjarne Drews
>Åboulevard 5,3.th
>1635 København V
>
>tlf. 35 37 13 70
>
>Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
>
>Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 28 15:53:27 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

Well sort of. In the late 1700s-early 1800 several machines were
invented that created net, which could then be embroidered or tamboured
by hand. Actual lace machines were invented in the 19th c.
~Lisa

> Wasn't the first lace machine invented about 1760?
>

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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

> I loved the movie too not really for the historic accuracy. It has so much more
> to make it interesting than just the costumes. This isn't a Merchant Ivory
> production.
> My favorite scene is when the Hessian stumbles accross the 2 little witch girls
> in the snowy woods and goes "shhh." Christopher Walken was soo great as the
> evil Hessian with the filed down teeth!
> Gotta see this movie again.
>
> ~Lisa

> The movie should be enjoyed for the mood and look that is created.  I think if
> you start nit-picking, you're going to lose the experience.  My favorite part
> has nothing to do with costumes.  It's the scene where the head rolls between
> Ichabod's legs and then is speared like an olive by the horseman as he rides
> by.

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Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 17:41:30 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: sleepy hollow costume
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

Hopefully, not too many more of the good parts will be told on our list 
before the rest of us get to see it!!!

Darla
Who is housebound with the flu and begging y'all not to give away more good 
parts of the movie!!!
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/28/1999 12:36:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
khopkins@cyberhighway.net writes:

<< Sleepy Hollow is a story, a fable, fiction.   >>

Yes, by Washington Irving. It's a bit of American Literature. Like Rip Van 
Winkle, you can't just put it anywhere, anytime, but, also like Rip Van 
Winkle, there's no need for absolute reality.
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From: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
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-Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>





-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

They showed some clips from a new movie coming soon about Joan of Arc,
it looked very nice, has anybody seen it over in America?, it is not
showed here until January, there must be much stuff here for the
medieval interrested people!



I went to see this movie, "The Messenger" last weekend.  My friends and I enjoyed it very much, and thought that the costumes and armor were quite good.  The ladies headwear was fabulous.  I especially liked the leather jupon (?) with the heraldic motifs stitched in, and also the coronation robes, of the Dauphin.  The total "look" of the movie was the best I've seen in years.  Since we all know the story, and how it ends, it allows for plenty of time to absorb the visual details.  Of course, there are plenty of places to criticize and pick apart the details, there always is in every movie.  Hollywood movies are fantasy, and this one has plenty of "artistic license".  The scenes with Dustin Hoffman as God were, to me, very well done.  The other scenes where she saw a younger God, I could have done without.  

I recommend this movie.  Please don't dismiss it based on the professional reviews, which have not been good.  After all, they seldom are for historical movies.

Just my twopence.

Alianora
--



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 28 19:00:36 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: sleepy hollow costume
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/28/1999 5:24:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
martyr@gti.net writes:

<<  My favorite scene is when the Hessian stumbles accross the 2 little witch 
girls
 > in the snowy woods and goes "shhh."  >>

Me too! The cold pink silk dresses with gold lace in the middle of the wet 
grey forest is just so WEIRD that you know something's up. Like the bold 
voided velvets, it a costume as signal. Great costume effects!

Colleen Atwood's work can also be seen in
Mars Attacks
Ed Wood
Wyatt Earp 
Edward Scissorhands [Oscar nomination]
Little Women
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In a message dated 11/28/99 8:08:03 PM, AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< Yes, by Washington Irving. It's a bit of American Literature. Like Rip Van 
Winkle, you can't just put it anywhere, anytime, but, also like Rip Van 
Winkle, there's no need for absolute reality. >>

What I really enjoyed was the mixing of the logic and deduction of Sherlock 
Holmes with the fantasy and magic of witchcraft and demons.

Yours,
Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Nov 28 23:09:26 1999
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Subject: H-COST: where to buy silk socks?
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

I am wondering if anyone has a source for knee-high or slightly higher silk
knit socks.  I am looking for something to mimic the silk stockings, about
knee-high and gartered below the knee, that women wore in the mid to late
16th century (for reference see the ones Eleanora of Toledo was buried
in--Janet Arnold Patterns or QEWU).  They don't need to be fancy.  Plain
ones will do.

Inspired by the recent thread on silk stockings, I checked all the usual
suspects (WinterSilks, Amazon Drygoods, Jas. Townsend, etc., even Voice of
the Mountain) but came up with only cotton, wool, and cotton blends.  Even
opaque knit silk tights could be cut to size, but these seem to be equally
unobtainable.

Any thoughts?
Thanks
Melanie


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 06:07:58 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: where to buy silk socks?
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 04:25:31 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

I have purchased 2 pair of opaque smooth-knit 95% silk/5% nylon tights (dk. 
brown & black) from Eddie Bauer, and rib-knit patterned 100% silk hosiery 
(the kind you need garters with) in a natural oyster color, made in 
Switzerland, from Garnet Hill.  You just need to scrutinize the catalog 
offerings each year...  I know WinterSilks used to carry knee-high smooth 
knit silk "sock-liners" but I guess if you've already looked there they 
don't any more.

Susannah


>From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: where to buy silk socks?
>Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 23:28:56 -0500
>
>
>-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>
>I am wondering if anyone has a source for knee-high or slightly higher silk
>knit socks.  I am looking for something to mimic the silk stockings, about
>knee-high and gartered below the knee, that women wore in the mid to late
>16th century (for reference see the ones Eleanora of Toledo was buried
>in--Janet Arnold Patterns or QEWU).  They don't need to be fancy.  Plain
>ones will do.
>
>Inspired by the recent thread on silk stockings, I checked all the usual
>suspects (WinterSilks, Amazon Drygoods, Jas. Townsend, etc., even Voice of
>the Mountain) but came up with only cotton, wool, and cotton blends.  Even
>opaque knit silk tights could be cut to size, but these seem to be equally
>unobtainable.
>
>Any thoughts?
>Thanks
>Melanie
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Palatine
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 12:45:41 +0000
Message-ID: <b3t44sgg9esdorhggh054gnoeqdul8f4h7@4ax.com>
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-Poster: ben@hrofi.demon.co.uk

On Sun, 28 Nov 1999 21:08:44 +0100, you wrote:

>
>-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
>
>Sorry about this, if the subject is discussed to an end, but i just
>wondered if the lady who married Louis XIV' brother Liselotte Kurfürstin
>von Pfaltz was also called Palatine?
>I read her memoires some years ago, very interresting stuf!

 Yes, she was THE Palatine Princess.  Her full name/title was
Elisabeth Charlotte von der Pfalz, Duchesse d'Orleans, called La
Palatine.  She was wife of Philippe, Duc d'Orleans, brother to Louis
XIV. Lieselotte's simple title was just 'Madame'

Her memoirs contain alot of useful info for people interested in
baroque costume.

Ben Levick
Military Officer - L'Age D'Or
http://www.kipar.org/kirkes.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 06:32:29 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 12:50:14 +0000
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-Poster: ben@hrofi.demon.co.uk

Hi folks,

Some questions on late 17th century costume for you:

Can anyone tell me what is the best way to store real feather plumes
to avoid damage/moths/etc?

Does anyone know what furs were fasionable in the late 17th century,
especially for fur muffs?

Does anyone have any good info on how to make a 1690's frontage?

And Finally:

The L'Age d'Or website has been updated recently - lots of info on
baroque costumes and military uniforms.  http://www.kipar.org


Ben Levick
Military Officer - L'Age D'Or
http://www.kipar.org/kirkes.html
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 07:11:52 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: where to buy silk socks?
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

Melanie--
Do you know anyone who works at Colonial Williamsburg?

I know their artisans reproduce items in their collections. Maybe they have 
made silk stockings, or know of a source.

Kim


At 11:28 PM 11/28/1999 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>
>I am wondering if anyone has a source for knee-high or slightly higher silk
>knit socks.  I am looking for something to mimic the silk stockings, about
>knee-high and gartered below the knee, that women wore in the mid to late
>16th century (for reference see the ones Eleanora of Toledo was buried
>in--Janet Arnold Patterns or QEWU).  They don't need to be fancy.  Plain
>ones will do.
>
>Inspired by the recent thread on silk stockings, I checked all the usual
>suspects (WinterSilks, Amazon Drygoods, Jas. Townsend, etc., even Voice of
>the Mountain) but came up with only cotton, wool, and cotton blends.  Even
>opaque knit silk tights could be cut to size, but these seem to be equally
>unobtainable.
>
>Any thoughts?
>Thanks
>Melanie
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 07:01:56 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

What about buying an opaque knit silk T-shirt from wintersilks and
cutting it to fit?  (ie, using it as yard goods to make knee-high hose feet?)

On a similar note, I bought a set of the long underwear bottoms (no
feet) from LL Bean, in blue.  Since I usually wear low boots with my
costumes, these look like hose (more or less) and are much more comfy
than tights -- and solve the female thigh chafing problem as well.

--
The International Space Station has been in orbit for a year now.  It
will first be inhabited in March of 2000, and completed in 2004.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 07:57:12 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sleepy hollow costume
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 07:24:13 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I don' agree.  A bit of English literature, Romeo and Juliet, King Lear,
Midsummer Nights Dream, Hamlet, just to name a few, have all been 'set' at
different time periods.  As well as Rip Van Winkle, if memory serves.  

Of course, just because you can, doesn't mean you should.  

Kathlene

> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 11/28/1999 12:36:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> khopkins@cyberhighway.net writes:
> 
> << Sleepy Hollow is a story, a fable, fiction.   >>
> 
> Yes, by Washington Irving. It's a bit of American Literature. Like Rip
Van 
> Winkle, you can't just put it anywhere, anytime, but, also like Rip Van 
> Winkle, there's no need for absolute reality.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 10:02:32 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 11:11:59 EST
Subject: H-COST: Paisley Shawls on ebay
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

I don't remember exactly what this thread was, but there are now two shawls 
on ebay.  The first is very large
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=206638029

the second is an oblong
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=206659433

I have no idea whether they are really early 19th Century or not:  The only 
shawls I have were given to me as family pieces not to be sold.
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/29/1999 9:17:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
khopkins@cyberhighway.net writes:

<< Midsummer Nights Dream,  >>
Yes the recent one was moved to Italy ....for no apparent reason. Also all 
the plays you mention were period pieces when written at a time when it 
really didn't matter about accuracy. That's why we have clocks in Julius 
Caesar and they can be set in just about any time period. Irving would seem 
strange if not Colonial or just after The Revolution.
To me anyway...
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 11:11:39 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 09:27:25 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: American Girl Dolls
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>At 06:40 PM 11/24/1999 EST, you wrote:
>>
>>-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com
>>
>>Felicity is the American Girls doll of 1776 and she does have a stomacher on
>>her blue gown that she wears to the ball at the Governor's Palace. We based
>>the design on a little girls gown in the Colonial Williamsburg collection as
>>all her clothes we based on extant garments. She has really helped show
>>girls
>>and moms what people wore in the pre-Revolutionary period.
>>
>
>Sally, if I may ask, what was your involvement with the American Girl Dolls?
>
> I love this product line, I think they're designing expressly for the
>little girl I was. Dolls with historical costumes AND books that go with
>them!  Craft kits!  Furniture!  A "stage a play" package!"
>
>  I'm sure that they're going to have a strong influence on the next
>generation of costumers.
>
>the only thing I don't like about them, (aside from the price)  is that
>"American" means they don't do an Elizabethan one.  I went to town making a
>gown for my cousin's doll and had a blast.  I'm considering, when I do my
>children's Elizabethan pattern, including a pattern for a dress sized for an
>AG doll.
>
>Margo
>

That would be WONDERFUL!!  I would love to have an Elizabethan pattern for
my daughters' dolls.  I've got the McCall's (?) medieval-like pattern that
goes with the child's costume, but something between medieval and American
Colonial.

LynnD
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 11:50:45 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: where to buy silk socks?
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

>-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
>
>Melanie--
>Do you know anyone who works at Colonial Williamsburg?
>
>I know their artisans reproduce items in their collections. Maybe they have
>made silk stockings, or know of a source.

That's a good thought.  I don't know anyone, but I bet Penny Ladnier does.
I'll check with her.

Thanks!
Melanie


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Subject: Re: H-COST: where to buy silk socks?
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I suggest you check WinterSilks again.  They have both the silk sock liners 
and the pointelle knee highs.  (Maybe you were looking in an old catalogue?  
I know these items were out of stock last summer)
Ann Wass
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 99 13:49:18 -0500
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>

>Does anyone have any good info on how to make a 1690's frontage?

     England's Costume Society has a great reprint from the era called 
_The Exact Dress of the Head_. In that booklet, you'll find lots of 
shapes for a fontage. Some have the top ruffle sitting flat instead of 
standing up straight the way we're used to seeing them!

     I made a very simple one with a gathered cap back (gathered in a 
band from ear to ear on top, and a drawstring across the bottom edge of 
the back), and the ruffle stitched to the band in front, and LOTS of 
starch!

     -Carol Kocian
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 12:37:54 1999
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

My most recent Wintersilks catalog shows three types of silk knee-high
socks/sockliners plus two types of Stirrup long johns.  All are unisex
sized so they fit even my long legs. I fit a size medium on my size (US)
9and 1/2 to 10 feet.  Sometimes I buy a large if I'm going to toss them
in the dryer on delicate.  There's a little shrinkage, but not much. 
Phone is 1-800-648-7455 and I've been happy with their stuff.
  
Trouser socks #605 @ $10.95 in cream, taupe, navy or black
Spunsilk socks #005 @ $9.95 in cream, taupe, brown, silver gray, navy or
black
Spunsilk sock liners #019 @ 9.95 in cream

There's also silk/wool knee-highs available
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston,MA area, USA
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 12:43:26 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: sleepy hollow costume
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 10:52:11 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Does anyone happen to know who made the Horseman's sword?



> MaggiRos
> 
> ----------
> From: 	Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke[SMTP:ginnaphure@email.women.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Sunday, November 28, 1999 7:52 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: sleepy hollow costume
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Ginnaphure Jayne Fayrebanke" <ginnaphure@email.women.com>
> 
> 
> >-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> >No, it's not accurate at all really. The women are mostly 1770s& 1780s,
> the 
> >men 1740 to 1790s.... 
> 
>  the website said it takes place in 1799 and that the costumes are several
> years behind the current for that time because they are country people.
> 
> http://www3.sleepyhollowmovie.com/film/production/prod_notes.html
> 
> that should have some information about it.
> 
> 
> ---
> Ever Yours,
> Ginnaphure
> 
> ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
> ICQ# 41340093
> AIM: Ginnaphure
> 
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 13:01:45 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 11:04:52 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I think the trick isn't in trapezoids, but that the skirt is cut in a
circle, or more than a circle.  We don't see a lot of seams in Cranach in
any case (part of the early 16th century Artists' Conspiracy to confuse us
all 400 years later) so you can't rely on their absence to mean much.  

The cut of the bases will give you a "pleat" for every seam, and yes, it's
clear the skirts are not stay-taped (nor is the skirt on every bases-skirted
coat--thinking of a rider in the foreground of "Conversion of St Paul").
Cutting in a circle lets the skirt fall in such a way as to have just as
many "pleats" at the top as at the bottom, which is what we are looking at.
Cartridge pleating is a good overall effect, and I think a reasonable
substitute in terms of conserving fabric, but not the same.

	Cheers!

> MaggiRos
> 
> 
Mary Countess of Southampton (RPF ret.)
Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend (Corona, CA)
Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid) 
and sometimes even 
	Maggie Secara

> ~All my men wear a sword, 
>    or they wear nothing at all.
> 
> 
> ----------
> From: 	Wanda Pease[SMTP:wandapease@bigfoot.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, November 24, 1999 2:29 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	RE: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
> 
> Please post to the list.  If you simply use Organ pipe pleats-again as the
> Subject, anyone who is uninterested can just delete.
> 
> I'd be especially interested in getting a full length skirt to fall like
> the
> Cranach ones.  I've a big book of their paintings, several of which show
> the
> ladies sitting down, and the pleats are certainly _not_ stay taped past
> crotch level nor do they appear to be made up of trapezoids (no seam
> lines)
> as you can see the skirt smoothed out over their legs.  I've used
> cartridge
> pleats to get the line of _some_ of the dresses very successfully, but I'm
> sure there are other ways of doing them, and regional differences.
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 13:24:39 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:40:04 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

I must disagree with you on the stay-taped part as I have a picture of an
extant base that has two rows of stay-taping in it. It is similiar to the
redrawing of a base in Norris's book on Tudor clothing.
Carol Ross
>
>The cut of the bases will give you a "pleat" for every seam, and yes, it's
>clear the skirts are not stay-taped (nor is the skirt on every
bases-skirted
>coat--thinking of a rider in the foreground of "Conversion of St Paul").
>Cutting in a circle lets the skirt fall in such a way as to have just as
>many "pleats" at the top as at the bottom, which is what we are looking at.
>Cartridge pleating is a good overall effect, and I think a reasonable
>substitute in terms of conserving fabric, but not the same.
>
> Cheers!
>
>> MaggiRos
>>
>>
>Mary Countess of Southampton (RPF ret.)
>Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend (Corona, CA)
>Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid)
>and sometimes even
> Maggie Secara
>
>> ~All my men wear a sword,
>>    or they wear nothing at all.
>>
>>
>> ----------
>> From: Wanda Pease[SMTP:wandapease@bigfoot.com]
>> Reply To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 2:29 PM
>> To: h-costume@indra.com
>> Subject: RE: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
>>
>>
>> -Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
>>
>> Please post to the list.  If you simply use Organ pipe pleats-again as
the
>> Subject, anyone who is uninterested can just delete.
>>
>> I'd be especially interested in getting a full length skirt to fall like
>> the
>> Cranach ones.  I've a big book of their paintings, several of which show
>> the
>> ladies sitting down, and the pleats are certainly _not_ stay taped past
>> crotch level nor do they appear to be made up of trapezoids (no seam
>> lines)
>> as you can see the skirt smoothed out over their legs.  I've used
>> cartridge
>> pleats to get the line of _some_ of the dresses very successfully, but
I'm
>> sure there are other ways of doing them, and regional differences.
>>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 13:30:52 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 11:39:42 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I didn't say stay taping wasn't used, did I?  I said from some paitings we
can see that not every skirt is stay-taped.  Some are, some are not.  How is
that a disagreement?


MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Genevieve de Courtanvaux[SMTP:gdc@airmail.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, November 29, 1999 11:40 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
> 
> I must disagree with you on the stay-taped part as I have a picture of an
> extant base that has two rows of stay-taping in it. It is similiar to the
> redrawing of a base in Norris's book on Tudor clothing.
> Carol Ross
> >
> >The cut of the bases will give you a "pleat" for every seam, and yes,
> it's
> >clear the skirts are not stay-taped (nor is the skirt on every
> bases-skirted
> >coat--thinking of a rider in the foreground of "Conversion of St Paul").
> >Cutting in a circle lets the skirt fall in such a way as to have just as
> >many "pleats" at the top as at the bottom, which is what we are looking
> at.
> >Cartridge pleating is a good overall effect, and I think a reasonable
> >substitute in terms of conserving fabric, but not the same.
> >
> > Cheers!
> >
> >> MaggiRos
> >>
> >>
> >Mary Countess of Southampton (RPF ret.)
> >Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend (Corona, CA)
> >Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid)
> >and sometimes even
> > Maggie Secara
> >
> >> ~All my men wear a sword,
> >>    or they wear nothing at all.
> >>
> >>
> >> ----------
> >> From: Wanda Pease[SMTP:wandapease@bigfoot.com]
> >> Reply To: h-costume@indra.com
> >> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 2:29 PM
> >> To: h-costume@indra.com
> >> Subject: RE: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
> >>
> >>
> >> -Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
> >>
> >> Please post to the list.  If you simply use Organ pipe pleats-again as
> the
> >> Subject, anyone who is uninterested can just delete.
> >>
> >> I'd be especially interested in getting a full length skirt to fall
> like
> >> the
> >> Cranach ones.  I've a big book of their paintings, several of which
> show
> >> the
> >> ladies sitting down, and the pleats are certainly _not_ stay taped past
> >> crotch level nor do they appear to be made up of trapezoids (no seam
> >> lines)
> >> as you can see the skirt smoothed out over their legs.  I've used
> >> cartridge
> >> pleats to get the line of _some_ of the dresses very successfully, but
> I'm
> >> sure there are other ways of doing them, and regional differences.
> >>
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: schmitt100@aol.com
Subject: H-COST: re: colonial times people - fashion books for younger readers
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 11:47:13 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>In school we are studying colonial times people.  We've 
been talking about some of the clothes they wore.  I was 
wondering what a stomacher was used for.  My teacher did 
not know.  She thought it might be used for making you 
look thinner but Mom said that is what corsets were 
for.  Mom said you knew a lot about old clothes so I 
thought I'd ask you.

Eyewitness Books has a volume entitled "Costume".  It discusses many
different kinds of costumes & fashions, including the 17th & 18th centuries.
My copy was a gift from a (then) 13 yr old friend.  There are many lovely
color photos of real and repro garments, accessories. As with the other
books in the Eyewitness series, it is a well crafted book.  Best of luck
with your research,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 13:31:35 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 11:40:30 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I mean to say, stay-tapes on bases do not prove stay-tapes on ladies'
skirts.

> ----------
> From: 	Genevieve de Courtanvaux[SMTP:gdc@airmail.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, November 29, 1999 11:40 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
> 
> I must disagree with you on the stay-taped part as I have a picture of an
> extant base that has two rows of stay-taping in it. It is similiar to the
> redrawing of a base in Norris's book on Tudor clothing.
> Carol Ross
> >
> >The cut of the bases will give you a "pleat" for every seam, and yes,
> it's
> >clear the skirts are not stay-taped (nor is the skirt on every
> bases-skirted
> >coat--thinking of a rider in the foreground of "Conversion of St Paul").
> >Cutting in a circle lets the skirt fall in such a way as to have just as
> >many "pleats" at the top as at the bottom, which is what we are looking
> at.
> >Cartridge pleating is a good overall effect, and I think a reasonable
> >substitute in terms of conserving fabric, but not the same.
> >
> > Cheers!
> >
> >> MaggiRos
> >>
> >>
> >Mary Countess of Southampton (RPF ret.)
> >Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend (Corona, CA)
> >Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid)
> >and sometimes even
> > Maggie Secara
> >
> >> ~All my men wear a sword,
> >>    or they wear nothing at all.
> >>
> >>
> >> ----------
> >> From: Wanda Pease[SMTP:wandapease@bigfoot.com]
> >> Reply To: h-costume@indra.com
> >> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 2:29 PM
> >> To: h-costume@indra.com
> >> Subject: RE: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
> >>
> >>
> >> -Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
> >>
> >> Please post to the list.  If you simply use Organ pipe pleats-again as
> the
> >> Subject, anyone who is uninterested can just delete.
> >>
> >> I'd be especially interested in getting a full length skirt to fall
> like
> >> the
> >> Cranach ones.  I've a big book of their paintings, several of which
> show
> >> the
> >> ladies sitting down, and the pleats are certainly _not_ stay taped past
> >> crotch level nor do they appear to be made up of trapezoids (no seam
> >> lines)
> >> as you can see the skirt smoothed out over their legs.  I've used
> >> cartridge
> >> pleats to get the line of _some_ of the dresses very successfully, but
> I'm
> >> sure there are other ways of doing them, and regional differences.
> >>
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 14:27:06 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: sleepy hollow costume
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

Well, get ready to be very happy when you see this movie. Maestro Elfman
does the score. It is such a very, very Tim Burton movie that you can
tell in the first few minutes. There's no one else working today who
could do a movie that looks like that. Although he has taken quite a few
liberties with the story, I was pleased that burton kept the essentially
'intellectual wimpiness' of Ichabod Crane. It is also very amusing to
watch Johnny Depp being an 18th century prig. 

I enjoyed the movie a great deal, the costuming was all over the map, but
as it is a fable/ghost story I was willing to accept the incosistencies.
It was fun to see the post-Revolutionary War fashions even if they were
about 10 years off from the stated date. 

Karen

On Sun, 28 Nov 1999 10:45:08 -0700 "K & J Hopkins"
<khopkins@cyberhighway.net> writes:
> 
> -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> 
> OK, I guess that I will open this can of worms.
> 
> I have not seen Sleepy Hollow yet,  I love Tim Burton films and it 
> on my
> list.  One of the reasons I like his films, is that he so skillful 
> at
> putting up on the screen what is in his head.  Even if I didn't know 
> it was
> a Burton film, it would not take more than 5 or 10 minutes for me to 
> figure
> it out.  It would be even quicker if Danny Elfman was doing the 
> score. 
> Their visual and auditory styles were meant for each other.
> 
> Sleepy Hollow is a story, a fable, fiction.  It could take place 
> anywhere,
> anytime, that the storyteller wants to set it.  As far as I know, 
> this
> movie is not depicting itself as 'historical'.  Shouldn't we base 
> our
> critiques it on its merits as a Tim Burton, horror film?  So, were 
> the
> costumes scary?  Or did they add to the scariness of the film?  Were 
> they
> up to the typical Burton vision?
> 
> Sometimes I think we need to widen our focus when it comes to 
> movies.
> 
> Kathlene
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 14:20:52 1999
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From: Susan Courney <bd927@scn.org>
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-Poster: Susan Courney <bd927@scn.org>

Hi,
Yes, but I enjoyed that while watching the movie I was never distracted
by real out of period costuming detail (except for the pre-raphealite
dress). If I ended up watching for mistakes, because of the large amount
of anachronisms, that would have destroyed the movie's sense of place.  I
didn't expect the same authenticity as dangerous liaisons; I didn't care
if that detail was 1760 or 1790; I wanted the costumes to add to the
movie, not distract from it.  And they did. (Yes, Elfman did do the
score.)

Susan

-- Cropped for brevity's sake----
>Cheryl Odom (loved the costumes and didn't really care or pay attention
>to historical accuracy)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 14:22:03 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Pourpoints - a fully lined, mock-up in damask
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 12:38:53 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


I've done a mock-up in cotton and a 2nd fully lined, mock-up in damask.
(Tho' the gentleman for whom I made it gleefully considers it wearable. Go
figure.)  We used a med. weight, black on black rayon/acetate damask.  The
garment length was described as "positively indecent" just covering the
posterior; this made it very nice to walk, sit, dance, kneel or run in. We
added in all of the conceits: grande assiette armhole, bombard cuff,
standing collar, 32 buttons CF, 9 buttons/sleeve vents.

Some comments:
*  Dont use the various pourpoint patterns as given in "Jeanne d'Arc ses
costumes son armeur" (Harmand) w/o serious reflection. Dont. Dont. The
Charles de Blois pattern in History of Costume (Tarrant) is a repro of one
of Harmand's.  There are many reasons why I think the patterns in "Jeanne
d'Arc" were the result of a thought experiment and never made up.  "Jeanne
d'Arc" is, however, an interesting place to start when looking for
patterning ideas and grainline selection.  After that, close the book and do
a sloper.

* I found that I needed to use light, knitted interfacing (Fusi-knit) to
support the garment in the upperbody as the gentleman would not permit any
padding.  The conversation re padding & quilting went something like: 
	Him: " I have enough."
	Her:  "Not your tummy.  Your chest."
	Him:  "You want to give me falsies?!"

* The grande assiette sleeve is rather clever.  It allows for an amazing
amount of mobility especially considering the skin tight fit.  Wow!  Someone
on this list mentioned this would happen.  I confess I had doubts and now
repent that e'er I did.


So, before I commit the current design to silk brocade, some questions for 
tailors & people who've tried to research and/or make the thing:
* Shaping the collar - I'm tempted towards using modern tailoring techniques
(e.g. felting, pad stitching) to convince the close fitting collar to stay
where I told it to. It tends to collapse.  Is there a 14-15th c set of
techniques?

* Cutting and shaping w/o darts for a small pot belly.  Where does the
waistline go? Rather where does that seam belong? Right across the widest
part (true waist) or somewhere else?  I dropped it a smidge in the CF and
raised it a smidge at the CB. (smidge approx = 2 cm).  Mostly to prevent
emphasising figure problems & not for historical reasons.   I believe the
problem would go away if the chest padding was done.   

* Bombard cuffs and sleeve vents - are they supposed to be lined in the
fashion fabric? I did it but it was, again, personal preference (tailor's
vanity) and not for historical reasons.

Generally, this garment was one of the most interesting tailoring projects
I've ever done.  I love the novel cut and the vanity of long cuffs, the V
collar inset at the CB and especially the grande assiette armhole.
Comments?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 14:43:42 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Pourpoints - a fully lined, mock-up in damask
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 12:52:12 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

No advice, only a request.  There will be detail pictures, I hope!  I'm
dying to see what this armhole is, since I missed whatever earlier
discussion there may have been.


> MaggiRos
> 
> 
> 
> Mary Countess of Southampton (RPF ret.)
> Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend (Corona, CA)
> Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid) 
> and sometimes even 
> 	Maggie Secara
> ~All my men wear a sword, 
>    or they wear nothing at all.
> 
> 
> ----------
> From: 	Cynthia Barnes[SMTP:Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, November 29, 1999 12:38 PM
> To: 	H-Costume (E-mail)
> Subject: 	H-COST: Pourpoints - a fully lined, mock-up in damask
> 
> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
> 
> 
> I've done a mock-up in cotton and a 2nd fully lined, mock-up in damask.
> (Tho' the gentleman for whom I made it gleefully considers it wearable. Go
> figure.)  We used a med. weight, black on black rayon/acetate damask.  The
> garment length was described as "positively indecent" just covering the
> posterior; this made it very nice to walk, sit, dance, kneel or run in. We
> added in all of the conceits: grande assiette armhole, bombard cuff,
> standing collar, 32 buttons CF, 9 buttons/sleeve vents.
> 
> Some comments:
> *  Dont use the various pourpoint patterns as given in "Jeanne d'Arc ses
> costumes son armeur" (Harmand) w/o serious reflection. Dont. Dont. The
> Charles de Blois pattern in History of Costume (Tarrant) is a repro of one
> of Harmand's.  There are many reasons why I think the patterns in "Jeanne
> d'Arc" were the result of a thought experiment and never made up.  "Jeanne
> d'Arc" is, however, an interesting place to start when looking for
> patterning ideas and grainline selection.  After that, close the book and
> do
> a sloper.
> 
> * I found that I needed to use light, knitted interfacing (Fusi-knit) to
> support the garment in the upperbody as the gentleman would not permit any
> padding.  The conversation re padding & quilting went something like: 
> 	Him: " I have enough."
> 	Her:  "Not your tummy.  Your chest."
> 	Him:  "You want to give me falsies?!"
> 
> * The grande assiette sleeve is rather clever.  It allows for an amazing
> amount of mobility especially considering the skin tight fit.  Wow!
> Someone
> on this list mentioned this would happen.  I confess I had doubts and now
> repent that e'er I did.
> 
> 
> So, before I commit the current design to silk brocade, some questions for
> 
> tailors & people who've tried to research and/or make the thing:
> * Shaping the collar - I'm tempted towards using modern tailoring
> techniques
> (e.g. felting, pad stitching) to convince the close fitting collar to stay
> where I told it to. It tends to collapse.  Is there a 14-15th c set of
> techniques?
> 
> * Cutting and shaping w/o darts for a small pot belly.  Where does the
> waistline go? Rather where does that seam belong? Right across the widest
> part (true waist) or somewhere else?  I dropped it a smidge in the CF and
> raised it a smidge at the CB. (smidge approx = 2 cm).  Mostly to prevent
> emphasising figure problems & not for historical reasons.   I believe the
> problem would go away if the chest padding was done.   
> 
> * Bombard cuffs and sleeve vents - are they supposed to be lined in the
> fashion fabric? I did it but it was, again, personal preference (tailor's
> vanity) and not for historical reasons.
> 
> Generally, this garment was one of the most interesting tailoring projects
> I've ever done.  I love the novel cut and the vanity of long cuffs, the V
> collar inset at the CB and especially the grande assiette armhole.
> Comments?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> 408.570.1023
> Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
> Phoenix Technologies
> 411 E. Plumeria Dr.
> San Jose CA 95134
> "I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
> the wrong answers."
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: where to buy silk socks?
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 11:50 AM 11/29/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
>
>>-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
>>
>>Melanie--
>>Do you know anyone who works at Colonial Williamsburg?
>>
>>I know their artisans reproduce items in their collections. Maybe they have
>>made silk stockings, or know of a source.
>
>That's a good thought.  I don't know anyone, but I bet Penny Ladnier does.
>I'll check with her.
>
>Thanks!
>Melanie
>
>

I am not aware of any silk stockings made at CW, we do not have stocking
makers.  The stockings that we wear at CW are the usual poly cotton ones
that most sutlers sell.  I am looking for silk myself.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com, SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 18:41:07 -0500
Subject: H-COST: More Henry VIII questions
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>


Hello,

More silly Tudor questions! I swear, one of these days I'm going to finish this outfit and 
won't have to pester you all any more.

Anyway, first question: In the Holbein and Eworth portraits, it looks like Great Harry is 
wearing a standard 16th c. flat cap. But I can't tell if it's sans brim, or if the brim is pinned 
back to the crown. I'm kind of leaning towards brimless, but it's hard to say. Am I aiming 
for a beret-type thing? How would the ostrich feather be attached, if that were the case? 
Any opinions? I'm planning to use a fairly heavy wool with stiff interfacing (shh! it's on the 
inside, nobody'll know!)

The second question: I'm planning to make hose for the gentleman who will be wearing the 
Final Product. I'm torn between absolute authenticity and ease of making and wearing. I 
could either make them of wool or linen, cut on the bias (but as I've never done this before 
I'd be afraid that I couldn't get them close-fitting enough), or use a cotton knit or cotton 
lycra blend. I've also seen a wool knit that might work, but as Kevin is a warm-natured 
person anyway, I hate to stick him in something that is likely to make him sweat bullets 
anyway. The cotton/lycra I mentioned before might get me something that looks closest to 
the portrait (it's nice and matte and opaque), but as we know, it ain't period! Such a 
quandry! Opinions?

I'm hoping to buy the fabric in the next couple of weeks, since G Street is having it's semi-
annual 25% off sale.  =)

Thanks!
--Jessica
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 17:45:42 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Announcing the Costume-Con 21 Bids!
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 99 18:59:56 -0500
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-Poster: <aquazoo@patriot.net>

Forwarded per the request of Betsy R. Delaney:


Hi, all!

I'm sorry if you receive duplicates of this message. I'm trying to reach 
as many people as I can, and I know there are people on more than one of 
the lists included in this mailing.

This is the official word on the bids for Costume-Con 21.

Karen has received and verified four bids:

 Fond du Lac, Wisconsin (May 23 - 26, 2003)
 Las Vegas, Nevada (February 14 - 17, 2003)
 Salt Lake City (Odgen), Utah (March 28 - 31, 2003)
 and Chicago, Illinois (Dates TBA as soon as I have the info.)

These are the only official bids received by the Service Mark Holders for 
Costume-Con 21. Any others will be considered write-in bids. The bidding 
deadline was Friday, November 26, 1999.

As a reminder, Site Selection will take place at Costume-Con 18. To vote 
on Site Selection, you must be at least a Supporting Member of CC18. 
There is now a Site Selection fee of $10 US, which will provide you with 
a $10 credit towards a membership in the winning bid. All collected 
voting fees will go to the winning bid.

If you have any questions, or would like to find out more information 
about the Site Selection process, visit Costume-ConNections at
 http://www.Costume-Con.org/.
To find out more about Costume-Con 18, visit their web site at 
http://www.cc2000.org/.

We're in the process of updating the Costume-Con ConStitution, to clarify 
and define some of the procedural changes involved in adding a voting 
fee. I will post the bid packages as soon as all of them are in my hands. 
These changes should be available on the Costume-ConNections site by the 
end of this week.

Please let me know if you have any questions!

Cheers,

Betsy

--
Betsy R. Delaney
Web Mistress at large
WebInvent.com, Inc.

************************************************************************
mailto:WebInvent@WebInvent.com or visit http://www.WebInvent.com/
mailto:Costume-Con@Costume-Con.org or visit http://www.Costume-Con.org/
mailto:betsy@hawkeswood.com or visit http://www.hawkeswood.com/
************************************************************************
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 20:07:23 1999
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From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

JPMcTeer@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I don't remember exactly what this thread was, but there are now two shawls
> on ebay.  The first is very large
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=206638029
> 
> the second is an oblong
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=206659433
> 
> I have no idea whether they are really early 19th Century or not:  The only
> shawls I have were given to me as family pieces not to be sold.

thanks for the treat! They both look very "right". I have a mid-19th
French paisley (authenticated at the V&A) very similar to the one
pictured. And the Indian shawl is to die for. This seller has listed
some interesting pieces (I just bid on the rug!)

Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 21:16:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 22:30:21 EST
Subject: H-COST: Elizabethan American Girl pattern
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Simplicity makes an Elizabethan pattern for American Girl-size dolls. I have 
it, but not with me. It comes with a weird quazi-Renaissance gown too, but I 
think the Elizabethan one looks good. There are two, actually, so you can 
make a princess and a servant. Or more likely, so you match whichever adult 
Simplicity Renaissance pattern you made! I plan to make one of these for my 
daughter for Christmas. Or at least, I planned on it earlier. Maybe a New 
Year's present??? Anyway, I hope Margo makes one too. (Hey, how about a whole 
line of historic "Pre-American Girl" gowns???). But this one is doable.

Gail Finke

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 22:38:58 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #814
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com


Cynthia:

Your pourpoint sounds fantastic! I'm afraid I can't answer any questions 
because I am not as advanced a sewer as you are. Maybe you can answer some of 
mine!

1) What do you mean by bombard cuffs? Can't picture it.

2) What did you do in the back at the neck? You mentioned a V cut, and if 
it's what I think you mean, I have never been able to get that to work/

3) If you were to pad the front, how would you do it?

Gail Finke

PS: Broom, if you are still on this list, how do you get your collars to 
stand up?

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 22:39:29 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: movies
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I haven't seen either "Sleepy Hollow" or "The Messenger" yet, but why should 
that stop me from commenting?? :-)

I don't think there's any problem in asking whether costuming from a movie is 
historically accurate. The person who originally asked about Sleepy Hollow 
just wanted to know, I think. If I see something I like that is out of the 
period I know about, I'm curious too! So it sounds as if this is based on 
historic styles, and then "over-the-topped" in the typical Tim Burton way. 
I'm not a fan of his, but I do appreciate his sense of style. Too bad his 
stuff is not as profound and meaningful as he thinks (and constantly tells 
you) it is.

BTW, the movie is LOOSELY based on the Washington Irving story, which means 
(I take it) that the only thing that could be less like the story would be a 
movie called "Washington Irving's Sleepy Hollow" -- which you know would have 
no relation at all. And from what I hear, "The Messenger" stinks big-time. 
The director was French, but he seems to have taken the same view of history 
as the Indian director of "Elizabeth." The writer was English, so maybe 
England once again got a chance to ruin The Maid's reputation?? :-) 

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 22:15:43 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 23:26:38 -0500
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From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Messenger
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>So- has any one else seen this movie? What'd they think of the costumes?
It's 
>a little before my time period, so I knew nothing. I thought Faye Dunaway's 
>headdresses were AWESOME, even if they weren't accurate. 
>
>The movie itself? Very disturbing. I'm not sure what I think...I'll have to 
>ask the voices in my head ;-)

Personally, I thought the costuming was atrocious!  (I was very pround of
myself for my restraint!) <g>  However, I really enjoyed the movie none the
less.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 23:29:12 -0600
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------41B73353783047F65CF030A5
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For those seeking a copy of this book...

--Charlene


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Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 11:34:31 -0800
To: QEWU@geenduck.com
From: Steve or Jane Urbach <theducks@greenduck.com>
Subject: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked by Janet Arnold  now
  available
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Hello; (this is a blind copy reply to all on our waiting list) Please 
include your name in the body of your reply so that we may match up 
requests. Thanks.

WE have just been notified that :

QUEEN ELIZABETHS WARDROBE UNLOCKED  by Janet Arnold is now available;

		The price will be    $190.00

   		+ship/handling              6.00   taxable in California and Arizona.

If you are still interested in this book we would appreciate an immediate 
reply.  We have 4 copies which will be available  for shipment to arrive 
before Christmas.  We can get more,  but can not guarantee Christmas 
delivery unless you notify us immediately.

___________________________________________________________
S&H is $6.00 Flat Rate per order (any size) in the US 48 , Standard Ground.
Ask about rates for faster shipment.

S&H will be quoted for International orders based upon items ordered.

Sub Total  $   including our Normal S&H or if stated, International S&H
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$(sub-total).
(AZ residents, Please tell us your county - we don't have a city to County 
chart, only the county rates)

Sales Tax $______  when required
Total   (please add options and sales tax to subtotal)


,        _
,       | \                           Steve Urbach
,       |  )erek
,   ____|_/ragonsclaw                 theducks@greenduck.com
,  / / /                              http://www.greenduck.com



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From: "Ches" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <384360A8.4EC682F7@flash.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: [Fwd: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked by Janet Arnold  nowavailable]
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-Poster: "Ches" <ches@io.com>

For those who's email services DO NOT ALLOW ATTACHMENTS please place the
text of the message in the email and repost. :)

Many will love you. :)

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlene Charette" <charlene@flash.net>
To: "H-Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, November 29, 1999 11:29 PM
Subject: H-COST: [Fwd: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked by Janet Arnold
nowavailable]


> For those seeking a copy of this book...
>
> --Charlene
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Nov 29 23:45:51 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 21:44:52 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Organ pipe pleats - again....
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

At 01:40 PM 11/29/99 -0600, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
>
>I must disagree with you on the stay-taped part as I have a picture of an
>extant base that has two rows of stay-taping in it. It is similiar to the
>redrawing of a base in Norris's book on Tudor clothing.
>Carol Ross
>>

Maggie wrote:
>>The cut of the bases will give you a "pleat" for every seam, and yes, it's
>>clear the skirts are not stay-taped (nor is the skirt on every
>bases-skirted
>>coat--thinking of a rider in the foreground of "Conversion of St Paul").

I think the key is that some skirts are and some aren't. There is a lot of
variety in Germans in the early 16th c. Many skirts aren't pleated at
all... But to get the "perfect" pleats, the organ pipe pleating in those
extant skirts really does work.  I''ve seen some pictures of both men and
women who have bent knees where the pleats actually follow the bend in the
knee and stay "perfect" and some where the pleats fall open. There just
isn't a "single" option.  My previous point is that you can acheive the
organ pipe pleats at the top with just a 4-6" tuck and a few stay tapes
that still allow a skirt to flow open... The circle cut tends to cause the
pleats do flow down in more even rows.

Julie Adams

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 02:27:18 1999
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 00:43:28 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: So what is a Palatine Countess?
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-id: <38431DB0.17E1719E@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Valerie wrote:

>> Now, if you could explain to this idiot American just how a Palatine Countess
>> differs from a regular Countess, she would be eternally in your debt.

I'm afraid that 'regular Countess' doesn't fit with German practice. You have
to understand that Germany was a collection of tiny duchies, principalities
and kingdoms that weren't united until relatively recently.

Besides the regular title, there are four titles of Count:
Graf - (count)
Burggraf - (burgrave) the military governor of a German city (12th and 13th
    centuries) or a noble ruling a German castle or town and it's surrounding
    land by hereditary right
Landgraf - (landgrave) a German count having a territorial jurisdiction
    (over a county, of course)
Markgraf - (margrave) the military governor of a German border province
    (or mark/march) or a German noble equivalent in rank to a British marquess
Pfalzgraf - (palatine count) a count having jurisdiction over a province or
    territory related to the palace (hence palatial or palatine) of the Holy
    Roman Emperor and possessing royal rights and privileges within his
    domain. These were the Imperial Electors entitled to take part in choosing
    the Emperor

There is still a region in Germany called Rheinland-Pfalz (Rhine Palatinate),
named for its ancient role as the realm of the count palatine of the Rhine.
Palatine as an adjective can also refer to the Mayor of the Palace, imperial
chamberlain or chief minister.

Sorry for being wordy and off-topic. :-}

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 02:48:19 1999
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 01:07:46 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: So what is a Palatine Countess?
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-id: <38432362.4319AE53@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Valerie wrote:

>> Now, if you could explain to this idiot American just how a Palatine Countess
>> differs from a regular Countess, she would be eternally in your debt.

I'm afraid that 'regular Countess' doesn't fit with German practice. You have
to understand that Germany was a collection of tiny duchies, principalities
and kingdoms that weren't united until relatively recently.

Besides the regular title, there are four titles of Count:
Graf - (count)
Burggraf - (burgrave) the military governor of a German city (12th and 13th
    centuries) or a noble ruling a German castle or town and it's surrounding
    land by hereditary right
Landgraf - (landgrave) a German count having a territorial jurisdiction
    (over a county, of course)
Markgraf - (margrave) the military governor of a German border province
    (or mark/march) or a German noble equivalent in rank to a British marquess
Pfalzgraf - (palatine count) a count having jurisdiction over a province or
    territory related to the palace (hence palatial or palatine) of the Holy
    Roman Emperor and possessing royal rights and privileges within his
    domain. These were the Imperial Electors entitled to take part in choosing
    the Emperor

There is still a region in Germany called Rheinland-Pfalz (Rhine Palatinate),
named for its ancient role as the realm of the count palatine of the Rhine.
Palatine as an adjective can also refer to the Mayor of the Palace, imperial
chamberlain or chief minister.

Sorry for being wordy and off-topic. :-}

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 09:52:00 +0000 (GMT)
From: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: V-back collars
In-reply-to: <199911300536.WAA19681@net.indra.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: teddy1 <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> - -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
> 
> 2) What did you do in the back at the neck? You mentioned a V cut, and
> if it's what I think you mean, I have never been able to get that to
> work/

If you look at paintings showing back views of mens costume in the 
15th (and 14th?) century, a lot of them have v neck seams at the 
back.  The stand-collar itself is cut to fit into the neckhole that is v-
shaped at the back at the back instead of a rounded scoop like 
modern collars fit.  Some of the outer garments have low 
(collarless) necklines that are also round at the front and V shaped 
at the back.

I did my first stand-collar fitted into a V-back at the start of the year 
and found it *so* much easier to fit the collar into the neck-hole 
with a V shape than with the rounded shape.  I also think it gives a 
nicer shape to the garment at the back of the neck.

Hope this helps

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 06:31:39 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: where to buy silk socks?
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

Hi Folks,

Just tossing this out there but I've bought silk knee socks in the past at 
Ski Shops.  To be specific "Bob Greenwoods" in Boise, Id.  You might give 
them a try, or any little, more specialized ski shop.

Cheers,
Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 05:32:51 1999
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 16:33:37 +1100
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-Poster: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>

Ben,

>Can anyone tell me what is the best way to store real feather plumes
>to avoid damage/moths/etc?

We just put them on the top shelf of our cupboard, either by themselves, or
in a cardboard box (which still allows the feathers to 'breathe', and they
don't get musty). This being our reenactment cupboard, also has a huge
amount of wool in it. We put an open box of mothballs in the cupboard to
keep the beasties away. It works well, but we don't have a moth plague in
Sydney. I didn't realise that moths had a 'taste' for feathers too. We'll
have to keep out eye out for them.

<snip rest of questions I'm not able to answer>

Glenda.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 09:45:31 1999
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:04:29 -0600
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Pourpoints - a fully lined, mock-up in damask
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

>From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
>I've done a mock-up in cotton and a 2nd fully lined, mock-up in damask.
>(Tho' the gentleman for whom I made it gleefully considers it wearable. Go
>figure.)  We used a med. weight, black on black rayon/acetate damask.  The
>garment length was described as "positively indecent" just covering the
>posterior; this made it very nice to walk, sit, dance, kneel or run in. We
>added in all of the conceits: grande assiette armhole, bombard cuff,
>standing collar, 32 buttons CF, 9 buttons/sleeve vents.

Sounds very nice.

>Some comments:
>*  Dont use the various pourpoint patterns as given in "Jeanne d'Arc ses
>costumes son armeur" (Harmand) w/o serious reflection. Dont. Dont. The
>Charles de Blois pattern in History of Costume (Tarrant) is a repro of one
>of Harmand's.  There are many reasons why I think the patterns in "Jeanne
>d'Arc" were the result of a thought experiment and never made up...

I'm fairly certain that you are right there.  The more I look at it, it seems
like it was just intended to show people what the various pattern pieces were,
and not intended to be a "real" pattern (much like many of my shoe design 
pages, as a matter of fact).

>* I found that I needed to use light, knitted interfacing (Fusi-knit) to
>support the garment in the upperbody as the gentleman would not permit any
>padding.  The conversation re padding & quilting went something like: 

I assume he's not planning on using it for armor then.

>* The grande assiette sleeve is rather clever.  It allows for an amazing
>amount of mobility especially considering the skin tight fit.  Wow!  Someone
>on this list mentioned this would happen.  I confess I had doubts and now
>repent that e'er I did.

I noticed this with the Moy Gown and the generally similar sleeve concept.

>* Bombard cuffs and sleeve vents - are they supposed to be lined in the
>fashion fabric? I did it but it was, again, personal preference (tailor's
>vanity) and not for historical reasons.

Not having seen the original, I can't say for sure, but if I may speculate,
I'll 
bet they are ARE lined, but in a firmer silk.

>Generally, this garment was one of the most interesting tailoring projects
>I've ever done.  I love the novel cut and the vanity of long cuffs, the V
>collar inset at the CB and especially the grande assiette armhole.
>Comments?

If you would be interested in submitting a photo of it to be put up at my 
clothing site under "reproductions", I'd love to talk to you about it.

Marc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 12:19:59 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991126030330.21205.rocketmail@web602.mail.yahoo.com> <38431DB0.17E1719E@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: So what is a Palatine Countess?
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 19:16:30 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

> I'm afraid that 'regular Countess' doesn't fit with German practice. You
have
> to understand that Germany was a collection of tiny duchies,
principalities
> and kingdoms that weren't united until relatively recently.
>
> Besides the regular title, there are four titles of Count:
> Graf - (count)
> Burggraf - (burgrave) the military governor of a German city (12th and
13th
>     centuries) or a noble ruling a German castle or town and it's
surrounding
>     land by hereditary right
> Landgraf - (landgrave) a German count having a territorial jurisdiction
>     (over a county, of course)
> Markgraf - (margrave) the military governor of a German border province
>     (or mark/march) or a German noble equivalent in rank to a British
marquess
> Pfalzgraf - (palatine count) a count having jurisdiction over a province
or
>     territory related to the palace (hence palatial or palatine) of the
Holy
>     Roman Emperor and possessing royal rights and privileges within his
>     domain. These were the Imperial Electors entitled to take part in
choosing
>     the Emperor
>
> There is still a region in Germany called Rheinland-Pfalz (Rhine
Palatinate),
> named for its ancient role as the realm of the count palatine of the
Rhine.
> Palatine as an adjective can also refer to the Mayor of the Palace,
imperial
> chamberlain or chief minister.
>
> Sorry for being wordy and off-topic. :-}

But very well put! It makes it all clear as springwater.

Well done, Dietmar,

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 12:40:22 1999
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:00:12 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I am finding that *cedar balls* are a really good way to get away from moth
balls.  I have been changing over to them for my entire collection.

WTO - Just say NO!
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
>To: "Historical Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
>Date: Mon, Nov 29, 1999, 9:33 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
>
>Ben,
>
>>Can anyone tell me what is the best way to store real feather plumes
>>to avoid damage/moths/etc?
>
>We just put them on the top shelf of our cupboard, either by themselves, or
>in a cardboard box (which still allows the feathers to 'breathe', and they
>don't get musty). This being our reenactment cupboard, also has a huge
>amount of wool in it. We put an open box of mothballs in the cupboard to
>keep the beasties away. It works well, but we don't have a moth plague in
>Sydney. I didn't realise that moths had a 'taste' for feathers too. We'll
>have to keep out eye out for them.
>
><snip rest of questions I'm not able to answer>
>
>Glenda.
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 13:22:33 1999
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 14:43:09 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Moth balls
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>We put an open box of mothballs in the cupboard to
>keep the beasties away.....
-------------------------
My understanding was that moth balls (naptha) can cause or
accelerate fabric deterioration.  I have also heard the 
chemicals in moth balls were linked to cancer and that it is
recommended to use other anti-beastie methods.

There may be a thread on this in the archives but do others
know whether moth balls should be a no-no?  Especially for
delicate historical pieces?  Thanks.


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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <384360A8.4EC682F7@flash.net> <001801bf3b59$60efa730$ac350418@C59303A>
Subject: Re: H-COST: [Fwd: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked by Janet Arnold  nowavailable]
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 12:18:51 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



> For those who's email services DO NOT ALLOW ATTACHMENTS please place the
> text of the message in the email and repost. :)
> Sincerely,
> FHavas
  Mine accepts attachments. Here ya go!
Michelle


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Hello; (this is a blind copy reply to all on our waiting list) Please
include your name in the body of your reply so that we may match up
requests. Thanks.

WE have just been notified that :

QUEEN ELIZABETHS WARDROBE UNLOCKED  by Janet Arnold is now available;

The price will be    $190.00

   +ship/handling              6.00   taxable in California and Arizona.

If you are still interested in this book we would appreciate an immediate
reply.  We have 4 copies which will be available  for shipment to arrive
before Christmas.  We can get more,  but can not guarantee Christmas
delivery unless you notify us immediately.

___________________________________________________________
S&H is $6.00 Flat Rate per order (any size) in the US 48 , Standard Ground.
Ask about rates for faster shipment.

S&H will be quoted for International orders based upon items ordered.

Sub Total  $   including our Normal S&H or if stated, International S&H
US48:
AMERICAN EXPRESS Card Users Add $1.25 for return receipt service required
by AMEX (sorry, their rules).
Alaska & Hawaii will be shipped US Mail (UPS) does not offer Ground
Service) unless
Air Service is Special requested.

International:
AMERICAN EXPRESS Card Users Add US$2.00 for International return receipt
service required by AMEX (sorry, their rules).

CA or AZ residents. YOUR Local (county rate) Sales Tax rate applies on
$(sub-total).
(AZ residents, Please tell us your county - we don't have a city to County
chart, only the county rates)

Sales Tax $______  when required
Total   (please add options and sales tax to subtotal)


,        _
,       | \                           Steve Urbach
,       |  )erek
,   ____|_/ragonsclaw                 theducks@greenduck.com
,  / / /                              http://www.greenduck.com




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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: Pourpoints - a fully lined, mock-up in damask
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 12:43:58 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>



Gail Finke said> 1) What do you mean by bombard cuffs? Can't picture it.

Funnel shaped or shaped like the bell of a horn.  To quote Harmand in
translation:
	 "We find that these "bombardes", such as those on the sleeves of
elegant pourpoints of 1400, live with our peasants of Perche & Dumois where
they are nothing but utilitarian protecting the hands from cold. These long,
funnel shaped cuffs of common cloth, extend beyond the fingertips by a few
cms. They are attached/closed by buttons. The name of these cuffs is, as it
was in the time of Charles VI, bombardes."Out of ignorance, costume
historians have often confused the name of the bombardes with the big, open
sleeves of the 1st years of the 15th c.
	The "pourpoints a bombardes" were worn with covered, closed-sleeve
robes as well as open-sleeved robes.
	The term bombarde, applied to this clothing detail, does not come,
as Gay and Racinet pretend, from the piece of artillery similarly named, but
from the musical instrument "bombarde", due to its bell, of which the flared
cuffs recall the form."

Gail Finke said> 2) What did you do in the back at the neck? You mentioned a
V cut, and if 
it's what I think you mean, I have never been able to get that to work.

I tried the collar pattern cut per A. Harmand's suggestion.  This V-cut
shows up in a lot of cute little Italian portraits, on statuary (there's a
pair of lovely terracottas at the Smithsonian where the seam lines are
clearly given.)

In Harmand, there is a CB seam in the collar/inset halves.  There a sharp
"dog leg" in the seam at the radical change in direction at the base of the
neck. I didnt get it to work either, tho' I think it could.

On the Smithsonian terracottas there is a CB seam in the body, but not in
the V-inset.  The standing collar is separate. (Tourist note: this winter,
when I go back I plan to look again. This time to take pictures & better
notes.  I really hope they were part of the permanent exhibit.)

Gail Finke said> 3) If you were to pad the front, how would you do it?

Gracefully. <ahem>
If you're asking by what means: quilting.to keep the layers in place thru
wear, cleaning & abuse.  There is clear evidence for this from reciepts &
surviving garments.

If you're asking what materials, I would probably use layers of scrap Warm &
Natural quilt batt as I have alot lying around.  I use this, torn in half to
make it thinner, for millinery projects.  I would use cotton knowing that
the pair of gentlemen for whom I'm making these intend to be dancing.

The originals appear , from the citations, to be stuffed w/ goat or sheep
wool, silk "wool" or cotton "wool".   There are clear directions in Harmand
for doing the quilted layers between layers of woven stuff which appear to
correspond to contemporary reciepts for e.g. "For fabric & fashioning of 2
pourpoints [for] MdS in his city of Bruges in order to go to Holland to be
[done] in black fustian, the one in 4 quarters and of 5 fabric layers, the
other "a grandes assiettes" in 3 layers; for each one XLs".
FWIW, uncarded, unspun, washed cotton or wool was used in quilts until very
recently.  The quilting has to be very close to keep the quilt batt from
shiffing & clumping.

Cin said>> the gentleman would not permit any padding. 
Marc C said>I assume he's not planning on using it for armor then.

No, he's not.  Dancing principly.  And decorative value at some SCA thing
that I dont understand.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: Pourpoints - a fully lined, mock-up in damask
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


MaggiRos>No advice, only a request.  There will be detail pictures, I hope!
I'm dying to see what this armhole is, since I missed whatever earlier
discussion there may have been.
Marc C said>If you would be interested in submitting a photo of it to be put
up at my clothing site under "reproductions", I'd love to talk to you about
it.

Marc C has the Charles de Blois pattern on his site.
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/blois.html It has the
"grandes assiettes" armhole design.
As for the one I made, it's black on black damask.  A combination notorious
for being hard to photograph & worse to digitize.  I see if I can get him to
suit up & hold still in daylight.

Marc, I did promise you I'd refine the Harmand pourpoint translation, too.
I'm working it.  Albeit slowly.  That reminds me. I need a cleaner copy of
footnote 7, pg 114 and proper bibliographic info for the volume that you've
faxed me.  I've not done the mysterious "powder in pourpoints" section, the
pretentious dig at Racinet, or the last 3 pages of speculation.  Still want
it? As is?

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: V-back collars/pourpoints
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 13:28:44 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Teddy said >If you look at paintings showing back views of mens costume in
the 15th (and 14th?) century, a lot of them have v neck seams at the back.
The stand-collar itself is cut to fit into the neckhole that is v-shaped at
the back at the back instead of a rounded scoop like modern collars fit.
Some of the outer garments have low (collarless) necklines that are also
round at the front and V shaped at the back.

I'm not clear on what you're describing.  Do you have a shallow V collar
only? Is there a big-V inset & little V collar?  Do you use a single piece
for the garment back or is there a CB seam up to the V?
The V-collar+inset that I copied from Harmand is about 5-6" from top of
collar to the point of the V seamline.  How deep is the V you're describing?

Thanks for the reassurances,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 15:55:29 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Costume and Character in the Age of Ingres.
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

Cindy-- Thanks for the information. That's very odd, since everyone at the 
Met bookstore told me there was no catalogue and the bookstore didn't have 
one. Since you can't find it at Amazon or Barnes & Noble, maybe it doesn't 
really exist. Hmmm.

I intend to write to the honchos at the Met to try to find out what happened.

Kathleen Norvell
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 19:07:40 1999
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From: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Messenger/movies
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-Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>


It seems like many of you here on the list seem to disapprove of the costumes in many  movies, including most recently,  _The Messenger_.

May I respectfully request that instead of just making blanket negative statements, perhaps  it would better serve everyone on the list if we were more specific and give real reasons why a particular article was or wasn't correct.  References to good books and websites are always welcome.  I, like many others here, am a novice costumer/historian.  Every day I try to improve upon my knowledge base, and this list is a very valuable tool for doing so.  I very much enjoy the comments and information shared by everyone, but IMHO it serves no real purpose to just flatly dismiss something just because "I heard it was awful".  

Another observation:  I've often gotten the impression in different movies that the costumes may not be correct for the time that is being portrayed, but perhaps were perfectly acceptable in and of themselves.  In other words, "good costume, wrong movie".  Yes, No?

Thanks for your knowledge, comments and opinions.  After all, it's why we're all here. :o)

Respectfully,

Linda 
going back to Lurkdom now! :o)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 21:39:52 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 11/30/1999 8:27:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
sleipnir@gateway.net writes:

<<  In other words, "good costume, wrong movie".  Yes, No? >>

This is a perfect description of "Bram Stoker's Dracula"
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



"Marsha J. Hamilton" wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
> 
> >We put an open box of mothballs in the cupboard to
> >keep the beasties away.....
> -------------------------

<snip>

> 
> There may be a thread on this in the archives but do others
> know whether moth balls should be a no-no?  Especially for
> delicate historical pieces?  Thanks.
> 

I was told that moths go for clothing that has not been cleaned.  A dry
cleaning before storage would therefore be sufficient to protect
clothing from the ravages of moths.

I cannot tell you where I heard that. Does anyone know if it's true?  I
have been relying on it for a while now.  I hope it's right.

Russell Hedges
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-Poster: "Ches" <ches@io.com>

I applaud your efforts with this email. I am really tired of the generic,
"Oh now that was just atrocious, I am proud of myself....blah blah blah...."
and then give NO reference from where they speak.

As an illumnor I can speak that the armor was right on. The armor patterns
were most definitely taken from the illuminations of the period,
specifically the ones about these very battles and of her. Most of these are
in very public collections through out France for all to see. If one can
stand to stay to the end there is a very long listing of the museums where
you can send off for these depictions. The costumes similarly were also
taken from many of these illuminations.

I am not fond of the style but that gives me no right to say that it is not
from that specific short time frame or that it was atrocious. I have an ugly
high forehead myself and I hate it. :)

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 1999 7:30 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Messenger/movies


>
> -Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
>
>
> It seems like many of you here on the list seem to disapprove of the
costumes in many  movies, including most recently,  _The Messenger

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From: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <009d01bf3b9b$9c437720$94a2193f@oemcomputer> <00a201bf3c18$704fc1a0$ac350418@C59303A>
Subject: H-COST: Snaps
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 23:38:16 -0500
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-Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>

When did snaps come into play for clothing and accessories?  General time
frame is fine.  I am just too tired to look into myself and thought maybe
someone knows off the top of their head.  It's not important, just curious.

Thanks
Erica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 22:20:46 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Moth balls
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 08:02 PM 11/30/99 -0800, Russell Hedges wrote:
>
>-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
>> 
>> -Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
>> 
>> >We put an open box of mothballs in the cupboard to
>> >keep the beasties away.....
>> -------------------------
><snip>
>> There may be a thread on this in the archives but do others
>> know whether moth balls should be a no-no?  Especially for
>> delicate historical pieces?  Thanks.
>> 
>
>I was told that moths go for clothing that has not been cleaned.  A dry
>cleaning before storage would therefore be sufficient to protect
>clothing from the ravages of moths.
>
>I cannot tell you where I heard that. Does anyone know if it's true?  I
>have been relying on it for a while now.  I hope it's right.
>
>Russell Hedges

A good cleaning will remove any eggs, larvae, and moths that may be in the
items before you store them. But that won't necessarily prevent them from
being re-infected. One friend of mine who had a nasty infestation of carpet
beetles (which also eat anything animal or vegetable) cleans everything and
then stores them in large zip-lock bags with as much air as possible pressed
out as you close the bags. You can buy large storage bags designed to let
you exhaust the air using your vacuum cleaner. 

Storing things in partial vacuum also helps by killing off the pests by
suffocating them. It's the technique used in museums when they find that a
chair or other furniture is infested with wood-boring insects; they enclose
the piece in a large plastic bag and then exhaust the air, allowing the bag
to basically shrink-wrap the wooden piece. Then they store it for a year or
so to allow the infesting critters to die; it's the only way to ensure that
you get them all.

I get things clean and then put them in a trunk with camphor. It's worked so
far and camphor definitely smells better than moth balls. Just be certain
*not* to put things in plastic wrappers of any sort if you use moth balls.

I also use the freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw method to kill off any little pests
without using chemicals. Those of you in the far north or at higher
altitudes have a larger area to use <g>, I'm limited by the size of my
freezer but you can use a backyard clothes line or unheated storage shed.
For my wool blankets, I put them dry(!) in my clothes dryer on high heat for
30 minutes or so. The dry heat doesn't hurt the blankets, but kills the
pests, and the tumbling beats out any dirt and fluffs up the blankets nicely.

Sorry I got carried away.... <g>

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 30 Nov 1999, Erica D. Pence wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
> 
> When did snaps come into play for clothing and accessories?  General time
> frame is fine.  I am just too tired to look into myself and thought maybe
> someone knows off the top of their head.  It's not important, just curious.
> 
I'm not really sure, but I think it may have been the early 20th century.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 22:37:34 1999
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 23:55:29 EST
Subject: H-COST: frog closures
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

Does anyone know when frog closures came into being used?  My daughter asked 
today why they are called frog closures and I realized that I don't really 
know.  Does anyone know?
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 22:40:58 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: frog closures
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 12/1/99 4:56:32 AM !!!First Boot!!!, M311@aol.com writes:

<< Does anyone know when frog closures came into being used?  My daughter 
asked 
 today why they are called frog closures and I realized that I don't really 
 know.  Does anyone know?
 Kelly
 m311@aol.com >>


I don't know when they first came into use, but I do know they were in 
existance in the 16th cent, and I am pretty sure earlier then that.

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Nov 30 22:42:09 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 06:01:46 +0100
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>

Hello list,
Ben was so nice to ask the below question, but I've subscribed now 
too. And I asked because I got real plumes, in contrast to the ones 
one usually gets, but had suddenly found out to my utter dismay and 
shock that obviously moths had eaten away on the plumes 
(fortunately not the expensive real ones) on my hat, although I have 
never seen a moth around here in the house.

> >>Can anyone tell me what is the best way to store real feather plumes
> >>to avoid damage/moths/etc?

> >We just put them on the top shelf of our cupboard, either by themselves, or
> >in a cardboard box (which still allows the feathers to 'breathe', and they
> >don't get musty).

Errm, I don't have cupboards or wardrobes. Maybe to wrap them in 
fine paper could work too? Would it help to use a lavender sachet 
wrapped up within the paper?

I didn't realise that moths had a 'taste' for feathers too. We'll
> >have to keep out eye out for them.

Apparently they have, I didn't know that either until I found my 
feathers eaten away. Does someone know if the long straps of anti-
moth paper help too without being dangerous for the fine fabrics or 
delicate feathers? I read too, BTW, that mothballs could be 
dangerous, but I have no proof for this. Anyone had good results 
with the lavender sachets?
Thanks
Nicole
************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 00:12:27 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 12:27:47 -0600
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: H-COST: re: Pourpoints - a fully lined, mock-up in damask
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com wrote:
> 
> h-costume-digest         Tuesday, 30 November 1999     Volume 04 : Number 817
> From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
> Marc, I did promise you I'd refine the Harmand pourpoint translation, too.
> I'm working it.  Albeit slowly.  That reminds me. I need a cleaner copy of
> footnote 7, pg 114 and proper bibliographic info for the volume that you've
> faxed me.  I've not done the mysterious "powder in pourpoints" section, the
> pretentious dig at Racinet, or the last 3 pages of speculation.  Still want
> it? As is?

I'll wait until you are finished.  I'll have to dig out the page you
need from this pile of mess around here.  Lemme get back to you.

Marc
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 01:44:45 -0600
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: [Fwd: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked by Janet Arnold  
 nowavailable]
References: <384360A8.4EC682F7@flash.net> <001801bf3b59$60efa730$ac350418@C59303A> <009c01bf3b70$1f54f2a0$19d1fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Michelle wrote:

> > For those who's email services DO NOT ALLOW ATTACHMENTS please place the
> > text of the message in the email and repost. :)
> > Sincerely,
> > FHavas
>   Mine accepts attachments. Here ya go!
> Michelle

Thanks for reposting the notice.  I didn't realize that selecting "forward
message" send it as an attachment.  I'll make sure I use "quote message" in the
future.

--Charlene

--
A Pragmatist is:  Someone who doesn't see a glass half empty or half full --
just twice as damn big as it needs to be!  --Gary Tolbert


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 06:45:01 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 04:58:45 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: frog closures
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

Look to China or Japan for the history.  The Mongols also used these
closures.  I don't know the timelines, however.  Carol
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 07:19:46 -0600
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that
cedar balls (or blocks or chips) that are sanded occasionally to
'freshen' them, work as moth repellents.

Kat
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Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 08:15:07 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: where to buy silk socks?--thanks
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-Poster: Melanie Schuessler <melanie@faucet.net>

Thank you to all who have sent suggestions regarding a silk sock source.
When I called WinterSilks they claimed not to have anything like this in
stock, but since others have been more successful, I will call again.

Thanks!
Melanie


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