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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Hallowe'en costumes
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I'm curious about just what you Americans do in all these Hallowe'en costumes. Is wearing them to work as some people have mentioned a common practice?
Hallowe'en is not a big deal here in Britain, perhaps because we have Guy Fawkes Day less than a week after. You can buy pumpkins nowadays (turnip lanterns are the traditional British version, but they are harder to carve as I remember from once having tried). I once dressed as a witch for a party (put a black paper cone over the crown of a black straw hat),  but it wasn't a regular event. Some children have latched on to the "trick or treat" business in recent years, but I've never heard of there being any flurry of costume making - I think they just buy masks or use face paint.


Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 10:08:49 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 10:24:07 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Moth balls
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19991130203641.3afff822@mail2.quiknet.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> I also use the freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw method to kill off any little pests
> without using chemicals. Those of you in the far north or at higher
> altitudes have a larger area to use <g>, I'm limited by the size of my
> freezer but you can use a backyard clothes line or unheated storage shed.
> For my wool blankets, I put them dry(!) in my clothes dryer on high heat for
> 30 minutes or so. The dry heat doesn't hurt the blankets, but kills the
> pests, and the tumbling beats out any dirt and fluffs up the blankets nicely.

Be aware that while this may work on moths, it may not necessarily work on
all the pests you want to get rid of.  My grandfather was experimenting
with methods of killing  ticks (I know, a completely different arthropod)
and put a bunch in the freezer.  He forgot about them.  *FOUR YEARS*
later, he re-discovered them, thawed them out, and they walked away.  

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 11:04:52 1999
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From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Mothballs
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

One thing I've found out.  Never put mothballs in a cedar chest.  It
makes a foul odor and the balls combine with the cedar permanently.  My
husband had to sand the crystalizing off and shellac and I'm still not
sure if the chest will be useable.  I use the natural repellants and
cedar bags now.  It can be impossible to get the odor of mothballs out
of some clothes.
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston,MA area, USA
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 11:19:35 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 09:18:32 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

YES...   I just sent a message about them to the list yestreday but it seems
to have been lost in the shuffle.
I use cedar balls all the time now and am replacing the moth balls - which I
used to use by leaving them in the bag them came in and punching holes in it
with an ice pick... that way they did not come in comtact with the fabric.  
Cedar balls seem to work better, but here again I keep them on the sides so
that do not have direct contact with abric.  I am not sure that is
necessary, just being careful.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
>Date: Wed, Dec 1, 1999, 5:19 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that
>cedar balls (or blocks or chips) that are sanded occasionally to
>'freshen' them, work as moth repellents.
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 11:34:16 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 09:50:21 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
>YES...   I just sent a message about them to the list yestreday but it seems
>to have been lost in the shuffle.
>I use cedar balls all the time now and am replacing the moth balls - which I
>used to use by leaving them in the bag them came in and punching holes in it
>with an ice pick... that way they did not come in comtact with the fabric.
>Cedar balls seem to work better, but here again I keep them on the sides so
>that do not have direct contact with abric.  I am not sure that is
>necessary, just being careful.
>~!~ R.L.Shep
>http://www.rlshep.com
>
Good idea!  I've seen damage done to clothing and quilts kept in cedar
chests because of the oils in the wood.

I use lavendar in fabric bags kept near, but not on, my feathers and fur.
I also have a very fancy, expensive feather mask.  When I bought it a
couple of years ago, the artist told me to keep the mask in a plastic bag
with a fabric bag of lavendar - but not touching the feathers.  The
lavendar will keep the feather mites away, but the oils in the lavendar
could harm the feathers.  Whether he meant the dyes n the feathers or the
feathers themselves I don't know.  Doesn't matter much.  I wear it a couple
times a year and check it every quarter - no damage at all.  The plus with
the lavendar is that the smell of the chemicals used on the feathers has
diminished since I first wore it.  It smelled so strongly at first I
couldn't wear the mask for long but now it's fine.

lynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 11:48:22 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Moth balls
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 09:57:30 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I've had things turn up with "moth" (or something) holes more than once no
matter how often they've been to the cleaners.  Sounds like wishful thinking
or marketting from the dry cleaning industry to me.  

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Russell Hedges[SMTP:russellh@home.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Tuesday, November 30, 1999 8:02 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Moth balls
> 
> 
> -Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
> 
> 
> 
> "Marsha J. Hamilton" wrote:
> > 
> > -Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
> > 
> > >We put an open box of mothballs in the cupboard to
> > >keep the beasties away.....
> > -------------------------
> 
> <snip>
> 
> > 
> > There may be a thread on this in the archives but do others
> > know whether moth balls should be a no-no?  Especially for
> > delicate historical pieces?  Thanks.
> > 
> 
> I was told that moths go for clothing that has not been cleaned.  A dry
> cleaning before storage would therefore be sufficient to protect
> clothing from the ravages of moths.
> 
> I cannot tell you where I heard that. Does anyone know if it's true?  I
> have been relying on it for a while now.  I hope it's right.
> 
> Russell Hedges
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 12:43:04 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: frog closures
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 10:59:11 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>My daughter asked today why they are called frog closures and I realized
that I don't really know.  Does anyone know?

Frog princes found them fashionable. <grin>
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 13:22:16 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 14:36:14 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: Jeanne d'Arc/Chas de Blois pourpoint
To: Marfice_Joseph_P@cat.com, Gaelscot@aol.com, h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



Broom:

Yes, he did reproduce this garment, using the Charles le Blois pattern as a 
general idea (as someone on the list suggested). It's great. The standing 
collar is short, though, and we don't have the cool back to it -- just a 
mandarin type collar. Anyway, you missed it but we discussed this on the list 
a few weeks ago. Those sleeves are FANTASTIC, they give you great mobility. 
Plus, of course, they look great. Try it!

Gail

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 13:47:54 1999
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From: joanj@quiknet.com
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CC: 
Subject: RE: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
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-Poster: joanj@quiknet.com


In order to keep the camphor or moth balls or whatever away from
direct contact with the clean fabric (wool *and* silk), feathers,
or leather (*another* animal product I use a lot of) items being
protected, I put the moth-killer in a small glass (not plastic!)
jar with the metal (not plastic!) lid slightly loosened.  That
way the vapors can escape, but the solid chemical or oils are
kept away from the protected items.  You can tuck the little
bottle in amongst the items for the best protection. and if necessary,
you can use more than one bottle for a very large storage container.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA, aka moth and beetle breeding grounds

--- Original Message ---
"R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com> Wrote on 
Wed, 01 Dec 1999 09:18:32 -0800
 ------------------ 

YES...   I just sent a message about them to the list yestreday
but it seems
to have been lost in the shuffle.
I use cedar balls all the time now and am replacing the moth
balls - which I
used to use by leaving them in the bag them came in and punching
holes in it
with an ice pick... that way they did not come in comtact with
the fabric.  
Cedar balls seem to work better, but here again I keep them on
the sides so
that do not have direct contact with abric.  I am not sure that
is
necessary, just being careful.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
>Date: Wed, Dec 1, 1999, 5:19 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression
that
>cedar balls (or blocks or chips) that are sanded occasionally
to
>'freshen' them, work as moth repellents.
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 17:00:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 15:18:22 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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To: SCA Garb <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>, Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: my new belt
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

If you go to this website  http://sites.netscape.net/ksca/beltsets
and scroll to the last belt on the page you will see the belt I
commissioned and received in the mail yesterday.  I wore it all night
over my sweats.  *GGGGGGGG*

It is lovely (I think) and is a replica of a 14th century belt down to
the color of the leather.  It has sterling silver sexfoils around the
waist and a lovely brass pouch hanger that you can see at
http://www.medievalwares.com/medieval_belt_mounts.htm if you scroll
down to pouch hangers. The gentleman who made this is quite talented,
quite reasonable, and *nice* to boot.  The same can be said the
gentleman who made the pouch hanger.  Both do period work based on
artifacts and scholarly research.  And I highly recommend them.

No benefits for me, just a highly satisfied customer,
Merouda

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 17:25:04 1999
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Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 15:37:12 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: my new belt
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  If you go to this website  http://sites.netscape.net/ksca/beltsets
>  and scroll to the last belt on the page you will see the belt I
>  commissioned and received in the mail yesterday.  I wore it all night
>  over my sweats.  *GGGGGGGG*

My, that is a fine one! And your metalsmith invited one and all to the An
Tir 12th Night to see it. Wasn't that nice!  
So, when should we show up, and is it pot-luck? ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch
In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 17:43:28 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: my new belt
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Wow!! I am impressed with these and now can't wait to order one myself.
Thanks for the url.
Carol Ross

>
>>  If you go to this website  http://sites.netscape.net/ksca/beltsets
>>  and scroll to the last belt on the page you will see the belt I
>>  commissioned and received in the mail yesterday.  I wore it all night
>>  over my sweats.  *GGGGGGGG*
>
>
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 18:27:56 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> My, that is a fine one! And your metalsmith invited one and all to the An
> Tir 12th Night to see it. Wasn't that nice!
> So, when should we show up, and is it pot-luck? ;)

Heh heh.  Originally that was the project deadline, Jan. 6th.  But alas, I
can no longer attend 12th Night.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 21:20:45 1999
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kat & Kent wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> 
> Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that
> cedar balls (or blocks or chips) that are sanded occasionally to
> 'freshen' them, work as moth repellents.

I've always heard that as well, Kat.  In fact, when I refinished the
cedar chest my mother sent me the last thing I did was take a fine grit
sand paper to the interior.  I store my vintage stuff in it now (all
wrapped in acid free tissue or cotton sheets).

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 21:22:56 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 19:40:30 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

I store some of my less-used costumes in a shed in the back of the
garage - lots of spiders but I'm not sure about moths.  But they're in
garment bags inside one of those covered portable closets, and I have an
old sock full of moth balls hanging from the rod. It needs refilling
periodically but seems to work fine.

I wish I'd known about the lavendar - I just trimmed my lavendar bushes
this last weekend.

Carolyn
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Moth balls
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 10:24 AM 12/1/99 -0600, Emma Elizabeth Lehman wrote:
>
>-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
>
>
>> I also use the freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw method to kill off any little pests
>> without using chemicals. Those of you in the far north or at higher
>> altitudes have a larger area to use <g>, I'm limited by the size of my
>> freezer but you can use a backyard clothes line or unheated storage shed.
>> For my wool blankets, I put them dry(!) in my clothes dryer on high heat for
>> 30 minutes or so. The dry heat doesn't hurt the blankets, but kills the
>> pests, and the tumbling beats out any dirt and fluffs up the blankets nicely.
>
>Be aware that while this may work on moths, it may not necessarily work on
>all the pests you want to get rid of.  My grandfather was experimenting
>with methods of killing  ticks (I know, a completely different arthropod)
>and put a bunch in the freezer.  He forgot about them.  *FOUR YEARS*
>later, he re-discovered them, thawed them out, and they walked away.  
>
>Emma

But *ticks* don't eat dead animal protein! All I am trying to do is protect
my fabric, feathers, and leather stuff <VBG>. You usually find ticks
attached to you or a companion animal...not your clothes. (And yes, we have
lots of ticks in California, though I have not personally had to deal with
them, thank heaven!)

Hoping you all are able to keep the pests, of whatever kind, under control,

 
Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  1 22:48:36 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Ok, this is going to sound weird but is the moth problem a regional problem
because here in Texas I haven't had any problems with it at all.
Carol Ross

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 00:15:52 1999
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: was (no subject) now American Girl dolls 
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 22:32:10 -0800
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>

Re: American Girl dolls

 A few days ago, Heidi Fox  wrote: 
> Thanks for that correction Sally!  I thought the whole series of books
was great, and am glad to hear someone else's opinion.  I have yet to see
the dolls.

The dolls are lovely, a bit on the pricey side if you are looking for
inexpensive dolls, but on the lower end of the really nice dolls.  One
particular thing about the A.M. dolls, you can order one with the same
color skin, eyes, and hair as the young lady it is intended for.  The
various ethnic combinations are fairly true to nature -- there are a
variety of colors of skin, almond shaped eyes, straight, curly and very
curly hair.  The dolls are sturdy enough to be played with, and now several
pattern companies have patterns for this size doll.  This all after my
daughter has set her dolls carefully on a shelf.  

Islyle
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 05:37:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 11:52:02 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: V-back collars/pourpoints
In-reply-to: <199912010459.VAA03524@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Cynthia

> I'm not clear on what you're describing.  Do you have a shallow V
> collar only? Is there a big-V inset & little V collar?  Do you use a
> single piece for the garment back or is there a CB seam up to the V?
> The V-collar+inset that I copied from Harmand is about 5-6" from top
> of collar to the point of the V seamline.  How deep is the V you're
> describing?

Sorry, I probably wasn't very clear.  I'm describing a stand collar 
that is set into a nexk-hole that is round (follows the base of the 
neck) at the front of the garment and and a V at the back.  I fhtere 
is a standard size of that V, I don't know what it is.  It appears to 
differ a bit from person-to-person/garment-to-garment, judging by 
the pictures I've seen it appear in.  The ones I've done (so far) ave 
all been between 5 and 7 inches from top of collar to pint of V (the 
height of the collar itself being the varying factor here as I've used 
the same V on all of them so far - it works and I'm not going to alter 
that bit unless I *have* to...<g>)

Made them both with one piece collars (no seam at centre back) 
and 2 piece (seam at centre back) as well as a 4 piece (seams at 
side of neck as well as centre back - it was a parti-coloured 
garent), it doesn't make any difference to the method of doing it as 
I made up the collar into one piece and lined/interlined it *before* 
fitting it tinot the neckline.

All of the garments I've used these collars on have a centre back 
seam, as do *most* of the paintings/pictures I've seen that show it. 
 But I have seen some that don't show a centre back seam on the 
garment (from memory, I think I've seen one that shows a centre 
back seam on the collar but not on the garment - but that's a vague 
memory from somewhere and I could be wrong)!

The low necked (collarless) garments I mentioned are over 
garments usually worn over other garments with stand-collars.  
They are just v-back shaped neckholes, sometimes edged in fur (or 
with fur lining showing around them)

Hope this helps






Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: was (no subject) now American Girl dolls 
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

My big reservation with the dolls, even though they are beautiful and very 
well-made, is the price.  I know that, as a girl, I would have wanted one 
desperately, but there is no way my family could have afforded one.  When I 
expressed this reservation to one of the Pleasant Company people (three years 
ago), she made some comment about there being grandmothers.  Well, I only had 
one living grandmother, and she was on a fixed income, so she couldn't have 
bought me one either.
I have bought two, much less expensive, 18" dolls and am making clothes for 
them clothes.  I will be giving them to Toys for Tots.  I will say that 
clothes for 18" dolls are much easier to make than Barbie-doll size.
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <002501bf3c82$0ec575a0$0200a8c0@mamabear.stormypetrel.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 12:18:28 -0000
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>


 -----
From: Genevieve de Courtanvaux <gdc@airmail.net>
 >
> -Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
>
> Ok, this is going to sound weird but is the moth problem a regional problem
> because here in Texas I haven't had any problems with it at all.
> Carol Ross
  I think that the US might just have pockets ( no pun ) where the problem
exists/
According to my enty-?ist  friend the major culprit, the clothes moth has long
since died out in the UK( and poss Europe), although there are smaller moths
( and one beatle, that evidently likes nylon) ) that may take ocassional
advantage of clothes, they can do nothing like the  tremendous damage that the
original pest could; This had to be seen to be believed- clothes would be
practically shredded and unrecognisasable after  a month or so ( showing my
age).
Our moth balls have also died out; they were made of napthalene, which was a
terrible white stuff that leaked from pipes during the processing of Town gas-
now we use North Sea Gas which doesnt  produce it. It is most probably illegal
as well.
Something ironic about the fact that both beast and cure are no more; but I
cant quite put my finger on it ; too early to be metaphysical.
I hope that nobody goes to the trouble of genetically engineering something
that eats Lycra- boy would some of us be in trouble;

Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 08:14:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 09:22:19 -0500
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

I'm really cheap, um, thrifty.  Instead of buying closet cedar hanger
thingies at $3 for a 3x5" piece of wood, I buy a big bag of cedar
hampster bedding, and make sachets out of muslin.  Total cost: $4 or so;
and you can get about 50 hand-sized sachets to scatter everywhere.

cv
---
  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 08:39:47 1999
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From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Clothes beasties OT
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>the clothes moth has long since died out in the UK (and poss Europe)...
--------------------

Question from the U.S. to the U.K....
Correct me if I'm wrong--the clothes moth has died out, no rabies,
you don't have killer tornados every spring and fall, the mosquitos aren't
the size of humming birds, hurricanes don't wipe out your coastal cities,
your temperatures don't vary from -20 to 100 degrees F with 99% humidity,
you don't have major droughts that turn everything into a dust bowl, no
massive fields of ragweed and other allergens everywhere....

I can't decide if it's idyllic or downright unchallenging!  

But I do wonder how UK folks keep natural fibers from deteriorating in
all the damp.  Or is it only damp in Scotland (where the towels never
seemed to dry out while I was on vacation there?).
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From: "Patricia Szekely" <a.szekely@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Scotish resources
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 09:56:08 -0500
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-Poster: "Patricia Szekely" <a.szekely@worldnet.att.net>

Just wondering if anyone can direct me to resources for Scotland.  In
particular Scottish ladies in the late 16th century.  Can be highland or
lowland or whatever.  I am just starting, and need all of the references I
can get.

Thanks in advance : )

Tricia

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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 15:31:40 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>



> - -Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

 -----
From: Genevieve de Courtanvaux <gdc@airmail.net>

>  I think that the US might just have pockets ( no pun ) where the
> problem exists/ According to my enty-?ist  friend the major
> culprit, the clothes moth has long since died out in the UK( and
> poss Europe),

Really?  Are you *sure,* Dave?  In which case,  what was it that 
infested my place (along with carpet-beetle) a couple of years 
ago??

My entamologist/animal-biologist flatmate identified both the moth 
and the carpet beetle for me and I had a major panic about my poor 
fabrics and costumes...  All sorted now thanks to some nasty stuff 
from the local vet, but worrying for a while.

> - -Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton"
> <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu> 
 
> Question from the U.S. to the U.K....
> Correct me if I'm wrong--the clothes moth has died out, no rabies, you
> don't have killer tornados every spring and fall, the mosquitos aren't
> the size of humming birds, hurricanes don't wipe out your coastal
> cities, your temperatures don't vary from -20 to 100 degrees F with
> 99% humidity, you don't have major droughts that turn everything into
> a dust bowl, no massive fields of ragweed and other allergens
> everywhere....
> 
> I can't decide if it's idyllic or downright unchallenging!  

Ahh, but we have other challenges, like American actors who 
*think* they can do English accents (anyone watch "Buffy"?) and 
MacDonalds.

> But I do wonder how UK folks keep natural fibers from
> deteriorating in all the damp.  Or is it only damp in Scotland
> (where the towels never seemed to dry out while I was on vacation
> there?). 

Perhaps you just came at a bad time or were in a particularly damp 
region - I've never had any problems with my cotton, linen or silk, 
even when visiting Scotland.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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-Poster: "V. =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ren=E9e?= Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>

I was *so* hoping someone else would ask this!  Along the U.S. Gulf Coast and thereabouts, we have
awful problems with an as-yet unmentioned (unless I missed it) beastie...roaches.  Ugh!

I'm told these nasty critters are frequently responsible for holes in garments...especially garments
stored without prior cleaning.  (A little hole in a acetate velvet dress was blamed on a roach
munching away a spot of spilled food.  Shudder...visions of insect parties in my closet at night!)

Any possible truth to this?  And do moth balls / cedar / lavendar repel roaches?  Thanks, Renee (in
humid Houston, Texas)



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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I have bought two, much less expensive, 18" dolls and am making clothes for 
>them clothes.

Some of the big pattern companies also have patterns for cloth dolls that
wear the same size as American Girl.  I made a "Betsy McCall" (remember
her?) doll to use as a mannequin when I made the Elizabethan gown for my
cousin's doll.  This would also be a good period-ish compromise for
reenacting situations where yuou don't want to have girls carrying their
vinyl dolls around.  

Margo


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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

> 
> Ahh, but we have other challenges, like American actors who 
> *think* they can do English accents (anyone watch "Buffy"?) and 
> MacDonalds.

Yes, but we have those challenges in the US, too!  =)

--Jessica
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Moth balls
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>


> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
> I'm really cheap, um, thrifty.  Instead of buying closet cedar hanger
> thingies at $3 for a 3x5" piece of wood, I buy a big bag of cedar
> hampster bedding, and make sachets out of muslin.  Total cost: $4 or so;
> and you can get about 50 hand-sized sachets to scatter everywhere.
>
> cv
  I did this a while back with swatches. I was given a stack of brocade
upholstery swatches, some pieces were up to 8" by 12", which had little to
no use from a costuming perspective.  So, I made beanbag size cedar sachets
to throw in the dresser drawers and my garb boxes.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 11:56:40 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: V-back collars/pourpoints
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 10:11:24 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Teddy said> I'm describing a stand collar that is set into a nexk-hole that
is round (follows the base of the neck) at the front of the garment and and
a V at the back.

OK, that's pretty much what I was working on, too.  If you dont do a CB seam
in the V-inset, how do you get it to "stand" at the back?

Teddy said> It appears to differ a bit from
person-to-person/garment-to-garment, judging by the pictures I've seen it
appear in.  The ones I've done (so far) ave all been between 5 and 7 inches
from top of collar to pint of V (the height of the collar itself being the
varying factor here as I've used the same V on all of them so far - it works
and I'm not going to alter that bit unless I *have* to...<g>)

Yes, I agree.  More so in implementation.  This is quite clear, from my
previous (modern) tailoring experiences.  Collars can be so fiddley with the
amount of lordosis vs vertical posture, forward/bkwd thrust shoulders, neck
length, etc.  I like the CB seam in the collar if only because that makes
the entire CB a fitting seam.  Might be reasonable to use the CB collar seam
in muslins, but not in the finished product if the resulting patterm
permitted.

Thanks for the ideas, Teddy.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Scotish resources
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 10:33:26 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I have a reasonable but probably a bit out of date (we can hope)
bibliography, but of course it's at home.  If you'll email me there and
remind me, I'll try to dig it out for you.  There are also some links from
the Compendium web site Links page (ren.dm.net/links) that should go where
you want to go.  

MaggiRos
NOVLThorn@aol.com

> ----------
> From: 	Patricia Szekely[SMTP:a.szekely@worldnet.att.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Thursday, December 02, 1999 6:56 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Scotish resources
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Patricia Szekely" <a.szekely@worldnet.att.net>
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can direct me to resources for Scotland.  In
> particular Scottish ladies in the late 16th century.  Can be highland or
> lowland or whatever.  I am just starting, and need all of the references I
> can get.
> 
> Thanks in advance : )
> 
> Tricia
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 12:54:54 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 11:15:55 -0800
Subject: H-COST: WTO - very OT
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3026978155_188157_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

If you are not interested - delete this - but I think it is important for
everyone to know what is happening in Seattle. 

I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that could be a trouble
spot.
But I cannot get anything done. I just stay glued to the TV.  There are
pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations.  I watch all of it.
The police are PIGS.  It is bad enough that they will not allow people to
protest... but they make rules and then break their own rules.  They set up
a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and arrest people OUTSIDE of
that area. I know any numbr of people who were gassed trying to get home
from work.
AND the things that they have been doing on Capital Hill at night are beyond
belief.
I really would like to know why they make it a point of beating women and
obviously gay men on Capital Hill.  People who are doing nothing but walking
from one place to another.  This is not a *no protest zone* this is
basically a residential - known gay - area.
I am FURIOUS.  It is best that I stay far away from it all.
The ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD.  
I will be glad when this is all over.  But it won't really be over because
the mayor and the police have a lot to answer for and I am sure that people
here will not let them forget it.

~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com


--MS_Mac_OE_3026978155_188157_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>WTO - very OT</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>If you are not interested - delete this - but I think it=
 is important for everyone to know what is happening in Seattle. <BR>
<BR>
</FONT>I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that could be a tr=
ouble<BR>
spot.<BR>
But I cannot get anything done. I just stay glued to the TV.  There are<BR>
pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations.  I watch all of it.<BR>
The police are PIGS.  It is bad enough that they will not allow people to<B=
R>
protest... but they make rules and then break their own rules.  They set up=
<BR>
a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and arrest people OUTSIDE of=
<BR>
that area. I know any numbr of people who were gassed trying to get home fr=
om work.<BR>
AND the things that they have been doing on Capital Hill at night are beyon=
d<BR>
belief.<BR>
I really would like to know why they make it a point of beating women and<B=
R>
obviously gay men on Capital Hill.  People who are doing nothing but walkin=
g<BR>
from one place to another.  This is not a *no protest zone* this is<BR>
basically a residential - known gay - area.<BR>
I am FURIOUS.  It is best that I stay far away from it all.<BR>
The ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD.  <BR>
I will be glad when this is all over.  But it won't really be over because<=
BR>
the mayor and the police have a lot to answer for and I am sure that people=
<BR>
here will not let them forget it.<BR>
<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
<FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF"><U>http://www.rlshep.com</U></FONT><BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3026978155_188157_MIME_Part--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 13:25:25 1999
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: To mothball or not to mothball?
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 14:32:26 -0500 
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>


	Coming out of lurking to add to the mothball discussion.  I have an
interest in the work of museum conservators, and although I  am not one; I
have been a member of their newsgroup for several years.  I checked the
archives for pertinent info on mothballs.  

> Mothballs are of two types, those made of PDB (paradichlorbenzene) and
> those of naphthalene. A conservator at the Smithsonian wrote that
> Naphthalene only covers the smell of material that insects are looking for
> and therefore it is "hidden" from them.  Napthalene does not kill insects.
> I would guess that cedar and lavender probably also hides the odor of
> delicious animal materials (wool, feathers, leather, taxidermy specimens
> and furs, etc) from hungry insects.
> 
	PDB will kill them if in the right concentration and conditions
(Your items and the PDB must be in an airtight container -- cedar chests
rarely are).  PDB has been suspect for causing health problems (if it kills
bugs -- what else will be effected?).  For very thorough information on
moths and  their control you may want to check this website:

> http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/Entomology/entfacts/struct/ef609.htm
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 13:53:19 1999
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From: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 12:10:31 PST
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-Poster: "Tammie L. Dupuis" <mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com>


Greetings,

I work in an office in downtown Seattle, about 100 yards from where 
everything has been going on. It is very freaky to have police in riot gear 
and national guard camped out on my street, asking me where I am going every 
time I leave the building. My boss got teargassed on his way home last 
night.

About 90% of the protestors are very peaceable and march without violence (I 
saw people in sea turtle costumes yesterday... I almost ran over to them to 
see how they had made the costumes). The last 10% seem to be made up of 
people who really want to cause trouble for no reason other than to do it. 
The police, while having a mandate to keep things orderly, simply are not 
able to effectively handle this violent 10% and have ended up messing with 
people who are merely onlookers or minding their own business. Very 
unfortunate and stupid.

Oh... yeah... the President drove by my office this morning and waved to 
me...

This situation is so weird and so not Seattle...

Laurellen
mka Tammie L. Dupuis

www.vertetsable.com
The Renaissance Tailor

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 15:29:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 16:42:58 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/02/1999 3:14:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
mrq_laurellen@hotmail.com writes:

<< This situation is so weird and so not Seattle. >>

Too much Starbucks coffee, perhaps.

To put in a historical perspective ....I remember as a kid in Greensboro, NC 
machine guns on the tops of buildings and National Guard marching & 
patrolling around. This was the early 60s and they thought because of the 
Woolworth's sit-in in the 50s that Greensboro would be the scene of major 
race riots. Of course protesting over equal rights I can understand better 
than what's going on in Seattle. They all look like they're wearing parkas 
made in Indonesia anyway. But then I know zero about the WTO. Maybe this will 
get me and others to find something out.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 16:56:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 23:33:53 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

I spoke to my friend about this. He is THE plumemaker to many MOD's
around the world and he doesn't use anything at all.
I use herbal balls made from lavender,rosemary,sage and some other herbs

Dawn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 17:15:32 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 15:23:52 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Is the lavendar a specific for moths, or does it matter?

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Dawn[SMTP:dawn.wood1@virgin.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Thursday, December 02, 1999 11:33 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
> 
> 
> -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> 
> I spoke to my friend about this. He is THE plumemaker to many MOD's
> around the world and he doesn't use anything at all.
> I use herbal balls made from lavender,rosemary,sage and some other herbs
> 
> Dawn
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 00:05:35 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

MAGGIE SECARA wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
> 
> Is the lavendar a specific for moths, or does it matter? 
It apparently was used a great deal for moth as was rosemary, with the
added advantage that they smell nice. I have several old herbals which
mention them. I also like cedar wood and wouldn't but a mothball near
anything I wanted to wear as it affects my breathing

Dawn
> 
> MaggiRos
> 
> > ----------
> > From:         Dawn[SMTP:dawn.wood1@virgin.net]
> > Reply To:     h-costume@indra.com
> > Sent:         Thursday, December 02, 1999 11:33 PM
> > To:   h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject:      Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs
> >
> >
> > -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> >
> > I spoke to my friend about this. He is THE plumemaker to many MOD's
> > around the world and he doesn't use anything at all.
> > I use herbal balls made from lavender,rosemary,sage and some other herbs
> >
> > Dawn
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 17:45:13 1999
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From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: American Girls Clothing Design Software
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 17:03:27 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

I was at Target earlier today and saw American Girls Clothing Design
Software. It looked like you could create paperdoll and do some limited
clothing design. I didn't get a chance to read the package, but I
immediately thought of this list. Some of you with girls might be interested
in this.

Heather

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 20:42:53 1999
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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.44decf55.257841e2@aol.com>
Subject: H-COST: Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 20:01:45 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

I just got my birthday present: Fashion in Detail by Avril Hart and Susan
North.   It has wonderful photos of extant items from the late 17th century
(and 18th).  I was wondering, since it is a little later than my interest
(1500-1600) what your opinions were on whether or not the colors (dyes
available), embelishments, fabric manipulations were significantly different
than those of, say, 50-80 years earlier.  I'm not asking about style, as
that is obviously different.

One of my particular interests is dyed fur.  This book has an example of
dyed rabbit fur.
The other is that I have heared repeatedly that fabric with a slub in it
would not have been used.  This book and another I have has examples of
linen with  a definate slub.  Does anyone know where the 'fact' that fabrics
with a slub would not have been used might have come from?


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 22:09:19 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 22:18:01 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: frog closures
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Does anyone know when frog closures came into being used?  My daughter asked 
>today why they are called frog closures and I realized that I don't really 
>know.  Does anyone know?

I don't know why they're called frogs but, I have seen them used in
numerous 16th century portraits.  Particularily Spanish.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 22:29:00 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 20:40:33 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Plumes and Furs / Moth balls
References: <199912012317.QAA10593@net.indra.com> <38469973.F3AB3E76@flash.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



"V. Renée Bedford" wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "V. =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ren=E9e?= Bedford" <salieri@flash.net>
> 
> I was *so* hoping someone else would ask this!  Along the U.S. Gulf Coast and thereabouts, we have
> awful problems with an as-yet unmentioned (unless I missed it) beastie...roaches.  Ugh!
> 
> I'm told these nasty critters are frequently responsible for holes in garments...especially garments
> stored without prior cleaning.  (A little hole in a acetate velvet dress was blamed on a roach
> munching away a spot of spilled food.  Shudder...visions of insect parties in my closet at night!)
> 
> Any possible truth to this?  And do moth balls / cedar / lavendar repel roaches?  Thanks, Renee (in
> humid Houston, Texas)

I don't know what kind of roaches you have in Houston, Renee, but the
ones we had in Hawaii weren't fazed in the slightest by anything I could
think of short of pyrethrins.  They laughed at moth balls, cedar and
lavendar.  

However, roaches have no interest in clean clothes as far as I can tell
- they left my clothes alone as long as they were clean.  But for some
reason they loved to eat my watercolors (and no, they weren't temperas).

Carolyn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 22:41:53 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991202191050.MPXL20526.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 21:16:05 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0054_01BF3D0A.71DF7360
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WTO - very OTR.L. Shep and Tammy, or anyone else in that area,

  Please be careful.=20

Michelle

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>WTO - very OT</TITLE>
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>R.L. Shep and Tammy, or anyone else in that =
area,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp; Please be careful. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Michelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  2 22:59:28 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Scottish resources
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:56 AM 12/2/99 -0500, Patricia Szekely wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Patricia Szekely" <a.szekely@worldnet.att.net>
>
>Just wondering if anyone can direct me to resources for Scotland.  In
>particular Scottish ladies in the late 16th century.  Can be highland or
>lowland or whatever.  I am just starting, and need all of the references I
>can get.
>
>Thanks in advance : )
>
>Tricia

Well, it's probably disappointing, but the Scottish ladies of the late 16th
century dressed pretty much like English ladies of the same time period <g>,
only less richly, since Scotland was not a rich country.  Look for
references about James VI of Scotland (became James I of England after
Elizabeth's death); he married Anne of Denmark in the 1580s (IIRC).
Unfortunately, portraiture in the Scottish court was not as common as in the
English; most of the portraits of James and Anne that I am familiar with
were done *after* James became King of England in 1603.

One author to look for is _J. Telfar Dunbar_. He is *by far* the most
reliable historian of Scottish clothing. Most of the others I have seen are
from the 19th century and have a romantic attachment to Scottish highland
dress styles (often inventions).

Good luck on your researches (and have fun!),

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 08:01 PM 12/2/99 -0700, Dean Quackenbush wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
>
>I just got my birthday present: Fashion in Detail by Avril Hart and Susan
>North.   It has wonderful photos of extant items from the late 17th century
>(and 18th).  I was wondering, since it is a little later than my interest
>(1500-1600) what your opinions were on whether or not the colors (dyes
>available), embelishments, fabric manipulations were significantly different
>than those of, say, 50-80 years earlier.  I'm not asking about style, as
>that is obviously different.
>
>One of my particular interests is dyed fur.  This book has an example of
>dyed rabbit fur.
>The other is that I have heared repeatedly that fabric with a slub in it
>would not have been used.  This book and another I have has examples of
>linen with  a definate slub.  Does anyone know where the 'fact' that fabrics
>with a slub would not have been used might have come from?

Two questions about the linen: 1) What was the magnification used for the
detail? Under high magnification even the smoothest linen will show "slubs".
And 2), what was the thread count (tpi=threads per inch or tpc=threads per
centimeter)? Lower thread count means coarser fibers, which will give you a
"slubbier" thread. The occasional slub is expected, but is not a design
element in the fabric. Remember that *all* the linen woven in that time was
made from thread spun by hand. Even the best spinner cannot make an
absolutely perfectly even thread all the time, although she could come close.

That said, as I recall the earlier list discussion, we were talking about
dating the advent of a deliberately slubby *silk* fabric as a fashion
fabric. As far as I know, silk fabrics in Europe in the 16th century were
made from reeled or thrown silk where slubs were definite faults, not design
features.

This friendly spinner, weaver, and all-around fiber-fanatic sends you her
congratulations on such a lovely birthday gift,


Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From: joanj@quiknet.com
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Subject: H-COST: Interesting item on eBay web site item#212081594: ANTIQUE HAT FORM BLOCK ADJUSTABLE STRETCHER
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 22:41:18 Pacific Standard Time
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-Poster: joanj@quiknet.com

I saw this item for sale at eBay and thought that a member of this list might be interested.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA

Title of item:	ANTIQUE HAT FORM BLOCK ADJUSTABLE STRETCHER
Seller:	gcgc@sympatico.ca
Starts:	12/01/99, 18:07:39 PST
Ends:	12/08/99, 18:07:39 PST
Price:	Currently $9.00
To bid on the item, go to:	http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=212081594


Item Description:		
	When form is closed: 21" or 53 cm diameter
When form is extended: 23" 1/2 or 60 cm
Metal handle and wood adjustable hat form or stretcher. Marked 6 3/4 on bottom. Two graduated pins 6 7/8 to 7 5/8 and 21 5/8 to  
(unreadable). In very good condition.

	Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at http://www.ebay.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 03:46:26 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 09:59:04 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  H-COST: Re: V-back collars/pourpoints
In-reply-to: <199912022332.QAA17193@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> - -Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
>
> OK, that's pretty much what I was working on, too.  If you dont do a
> CB seam in the V-inset, how do you get it to "stand" at the back?

I'm not sure I understand the question - The collar is the regular 
stand-collar shape at the top, but instead of the straight line across 
the bottom (where it would fit into a higher/rounded neckhole) it 
extends down into the V shape at the centre back.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 04:37:45 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Moths in Australia (off-ish topic)
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 21:53:10 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

In Australia, a large moth is the Bogon variety, named for the region they
inhabit. They have a migratory path close to the national Capital,
Canberra. In the 1980s, when the new Parliament House was built, a large
light was placed atop it's sphire and guess what... Yep, the moths were
diverted from thier migration and infested the place.

Lesson? If coming to Australia, do not visit Canberra in your costume!

Still, could be worse, could be in Japan - anyone seen that Mothra movie?
Phew!

-C.
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, differences in
	 fabric treatments
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 06:42:19 -0700 
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

This is an incredible book, I woke up early to read more.  Another question:
I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)
who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving (with
different colors)wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
didn't exist'.  Now its been awhile, but I have been to the textile museum
in D.C. and it seems I recall that stuff as early as 700 b.c..  Most of it
was from the middle east, but it had elephants, metal thread all woven into
the fabric, not embroidered.  Since we have to 'prove' to her that we are
'right', I need written or photographic evidence.  This book has such
fabric, but it is more in the 1740's range.  Did weaving techniques change
that much??

Also, fabric color:  While it is difficult to tell because of photography,
lighting and degradation, some of these colors are quite bright-any opinions
on whether dying changed that much?  I would conjecture not, just because I
wouldn't think that synthetic dyes were becoming available even then.  Any
points to resources would be appreciated.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dean Quackenbush [mailto:deanq@paloverde.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 8:02 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments


-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

I just got my birthday present: Fashion in Detail by Avril Hart and Susan
North.   It has wonderful photos of extant items from the late 17th century
(and 18th).  I was wondering, since it is a little later than my interest
(1500-1600) what your opinions were on whether or not the colors (dyes
available), embelishments, fabric manipulations were significantly different
than those of, say, 50-80 years earlier.  I'm not asking about style, as
that is obviously different.

One of my particular interests is dyed fur.  This book has an example of
dyed rabbit fur.
The other is that I have heared repeatedly that fabric with a slub in it
would not have been used.  This book and another I have has examples of
linen with  a definate slub.  Does anyone know where the 'fact' that fabrics
with a slub would not have been used might have come from?


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 07:32:20 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'joanj@quiknet.com]'" <joanj@quiknet.com]>,
        "'h-costume@indra.com'"
	 <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 06:49:55 -0700 
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Joan, I don't have both books with me, but one in particular is on the
history of silk.  The linen bodice is shown because of the silk embroidery.
It is a shot at a distance that allows you to see the whole bodice on a
large page.  The slub is obvious at even that distance and isn't just here
and there, it is everywhere.  And what puzzled me more is that it is
described as being court dress.  In the other book, Fashion in Detail, the
slubs are more like what you described, just here and there.  But there is a
jacket dating in the early 1600's that is coarsely woven linen.  It almost
looks like the raw silk popular today, fairly open weave in 'natural'
colors.  It does specify that the jacket would probably not have been worn
in public, but used at home.  When I get home tonight I will send the name,
author and ISBN number of that book.  

-----Original Message-----
From: Joan M Jurancich [mailto:joanj@quiknet.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 10:47 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments



-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 08:01 PM 12/2/99 -0700, Dean Quackenbush wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
>
>I just got my birthday present: Fashion in Detail by Avril Hart and Susan
>North.   It has wonderful photos of extant items from the late 17th century
>(and 18th).  I was wondering, since it is a little later than my interest
>(1500-1600) what your opinions were on whether or not the colors (dyes
>available), embelishments, fabric manipulations were significantly
different
>than those of, say, 50-80 years earlier.  I'm not asking about style, as
>that is obviously different.
>
>One of my particular interests is dyed fur.  This book has an example of
>dyed rabbit fur.
>The other is that I have heared repeatedly that fabric with a slub in it
>would not have been used.  This book and another I have has examples of
>linen with  a definate slub.  Does anyone know where the 'fact' that
fabrics
>with a slub would not have been used might have come from?

Two questions about the linen: 1) What was the magnification used for the
detail? Under high magnification even the smoothest linen will show "slubs".
And 2), what was the thread count (tpi=threads per inch or tpc=threads per
centimeter)? Lower thread count means coarser fibers, which will give you a
"slubbier" thread. The occasional slub is expected, but is not a design
element in the fabric. Remember that *all* the linen woven in that time was
made from thread spun by hand. Even the best spinner cannot make an
absolutely perfectly even thread all the time, although she could come
close.

That said, as I recall the earlier list discussion, we were talking about
dating the advent of a deliberately slubby *silk* fabric as a fashion
fabric. As far as I know, silk fabrics in Europe in the 16th century were
made from reeled or thrown silk where slubs were definite faults, not design
features.

This friendly spinner, weaver, and all-around fiber-fanatic sends you her
congratulations on such a lovely birthday gift,


Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 07:44:52 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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 differences infabric treatments
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

"Knauf, Saragrace T" wrote:
> who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving (with
> different colors) wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
> didn't exist'.

I believe this is incorrect.  The fancy machines were invented to
replace master weavers, who were doing this sort of thing already.

I don't have pictures, but an account of some actual fabric I saw at the
Chicago Institute of Art is at
<http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/real_fabrics.html> with a few
images of paintings showing similar fabrics.  For solid documentation,
there are the Museum of London books, and Janet Arnold.

cv
--
  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 09:33:55 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, 
	differences i...
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/3/99 7:05:22 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
cvirtue@thibault.org writes:

<< I believe this is incorrect.  The fancy machines were invented to
 replace master weavers, who were doing this sort of thing already.
 
 I don't have pictures, but an account of some actual fabric I saw at the
 Chicago Institute of Art is at
 <http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/real_fabrics.html> with a few
 images of paintings showing similar fabrics.  For solid documentation,
 there are the Museum of London books, and Janet Arnold.
  >>


OK.  I'm not a weaver although I have dabbled.  My recollection is that the 
fancy loom you're referring to is the Jaquard loom which was a 16-harness 
loom.  Before that 2 and 4-harness looms were the standard.  This would mean 
that each motif would have had to be  worked painstakingly by hand.  No small 
feat, but doable.  Cheryl Odom, not an authority by any means
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 08:50:31 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/03/1999 9:35:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
Cheryldee@aol.com writes:

<< would have had to be  worked painstakingly by hand.  >>

Err....EVERYTHING before machines were " worked painstakingly by hand".
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 10:14:26 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 06:42 AM 12/03/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>
>This is an incredible book, I woke up early to read more.  Another question:
>I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)

Wait a minute, that's not my term.  It's a fairly common one, but I have a
profound distate for it:  to me, it trivializes the greatest tragedy in
history.  I usually use "costume police" in this context.

No apologies are needed, I know it's easy to misremember who said what on a
list as active as this one. 

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 10:15:31 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Oops, just after I hit"send" I realized the writer might have meant the word
"Snark" rhather than "Nazi".  If so, I don't really know where I got it.  It
sounds right, though, doesn't it?

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 10:32:04 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Moth balls
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

I think moths do go for the food spills on woolen clothes.  I doen't trust 
dry cleaners to do a thorough job of cleaning, however.  I wash all my woolen 
knits with Orvus Paste in the washer on gentle, lay flat to dry, then freeze 
3 days in plastic zip lock bags before storing.  It is effective and 
foolproof.  Wovens are tougher, as ready-to-wear isn't preshrunk and doesn't 
tolerate water.  Then you have to rely on the cleaners, but you can still 
wrap them in plastic and hang them outdoors in freezing weather, or lay them 
in the freezer for a time.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 10:39:16 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, di
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for something
like the statement you had made (I think) earlier in one of your posts "Who
died and made you Janet Arnold"-WDAMYJA-nope doesn't have the same ring as
SNARK.

-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson [mailto:margo@directcon.net]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 9:31 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was Slub, dyed fur,
differences in fabric treatments



-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Oops, just after I hit"send" I realized the writer might have meant the word
"Snark" rhather than "Nazi".  If so, I don't really know where I got it.  It
sounds right, though, doesn't it?

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 11:21:52 1999
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> This is an incredible book, I woke up early to read more.  Another
question:
> I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)
> who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving
(with
> different colors)wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
> didn't exist'.  Now its been awhile, but I have been to the textile museum
> in D.C. and it seems I recall that stuff as early as 700 b.c..  Most of it
> was from the middle east, but it had elephants, metal thread all woven
into
> the fabric, not embroidered.  Since we have to 'prove' to her that we are
> 'right', I need written or photographic evidence.

You can purchase color slides of the Pourpoint of Charles de Blois from the
Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.  The museum dates it as prior to Charles'
death in 1364.  It is made from a brocade with a slightly off-white back
ground and gold thread for the pattern of lions and eagles in octagons (or
is it hexagons? Anyway...)  You can also find pictures of it in a few books,
but I haven't seen any in color in the books.

Dan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 11:25:16 1999
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  differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 09:55 AM 12/03/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>
>Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for something

Ooh, let's make something up to fit it!


>like the statement you had made (I think) earlier in one of your posts "Who
>died and made you Janet Arnold"-WDAMYJA-nope doesn't have the same ring as
>SNARK.

It's not as funny since Ms. Arnold died, either.  Too bad, I really liked
its effect on the snarks.  

Margo


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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,  differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  >Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for something
>  
>  Ooh, let's make something up to fit it!

Sew-ers Needing A Reality Kick?

(Sorry, OT, but I couldn't resist.)

Kate
----
StitchWitch
In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8





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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 12:10:53 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: "snark"
In-Reply-To: <199912031734.JAA23008@apollo.directcon.net>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> >Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for something
> 
> Ooh, let's make something up to fit it!

Sorry, No Advice Required, Kiddo!


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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 12:21:53 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Another Snark
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


Superior Nobody, Always (Regretfully,) "Knowing"

Sorry.  It's a habit.  Make it a game, and I'll play.

Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:02:45 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 09:53:57 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
	 differences infabric treatments
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I can't buy that notion at all!  There are many examples and documentation
about fabrics being woven by hand in different colors and with patterns not
only in Euope but all over the world.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
differences infabric treatments
>Date: Fri, Dec 3, 1999, 6:00 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>"Knauf, Saragrace T" wrote:
>> who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving
(with
>> different colors) wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
>> didn't exist'.
>
>I believe this is incorrect.  The fancy machines were invented to
>replace master weavers, who were doing this sort of thing already.
>
>I don't have pictures, but an account of some actual fabric I saw at the
>Chicago Institute of Art is at
><http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/real_fabrics.html> with a few
>images of paintings showing similar fabrics.  For solid documentation,
>there are the Museum of London books, and Janet Arnold.
>
>cv
>--
>  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
>       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:04:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 12:22:26 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Snotty Nonrequested "Advice" Rendered Kuttingly

Sinfully Nosey Advisor Reminiscent (of) Kobolds

Sees Nothing Accurate Regardless, Kemosabe

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:14:30 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, di
	fferences infabric treatments
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 10:20:55 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

There's always someone who things everyone in the past was stupid, and that
nothing of quality can be made without machines.  Like the visitor to
Colonial Williamsburg who told the sadler that what he was doing was
impossible because only machines could do that kind of work.  Or another,
who wondered with awe if they had needles "back then".

It's not even a matter of what we think is true.  There are plenty of
portraits that show all kinds of fancy woven stuff.  There's no need to
prove anything to an aggressivly misinformed person who probably will find
some reason not to believe you anyway, no matter how sound your evidence,
because they think "it isn't logical."

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	R.L. Shep[SMTP:rlshep@home.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Friday, December 03, 1999 9:53 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed
> fur, differences infabric treatments
> 
> 
> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
> 
> I can't buy that notion at all!  There are many examples and documentation
> about fabrics being woven by hand in different colors and with patterns
> not
> only in Euope but all over the world.
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com
> 
> ----------
> >From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> >To: h-costume@indra.com
> >Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
> differences infabric treatments
> >Date: Fri, Dec 3, 1999, 6:00 AM
> >
> 
> >
> >-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> >
> >"Knauf, Saragrace T" wrote:
> >> who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving
> (with
> >> different colors) wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the
> 'machines
> >> didn't exist'.
> >
> >I believe this is incorrect.  The fancy machines were invented to
> >replace master weavers, who were doing this sort of thing already.
> >
> >I don't have pictures, but an account of some actual fabric I saw at the
> >Chicago Institute of Art is at
> ><http://www.virtue.to/virtue/articles/real_fabrics.html> with a few
> >images of paintings showing similar fabrics.  For solid documentation,
> >there are the Museum of London books, and Janet Arnold.
> >
> >cv
> >--
> >  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
> >       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:27:31 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, di
	 fferences infabric treatments
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

Maggie makes a very good point.  That type of person will never let
something as simple as facts get in the way of what they "Know".  Best
example I have heard to date was at Fort Sutter here in Sacramento.  Someone
told one of the Docents that the wood floor was "wrong" because they had
used nails.  After a few minutes of conversion it became clear that there
was no getting through to this guy that nails are period for most of
history.  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
it.

-----Original Message-----
From: MAGGIE SECARA [mailto:SECARAM@mainsaver.com]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 10:21 AM
To: 'h-costume@indra.com'
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was Slub, dyed fur,
di fferences infabric treatments



-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

There's always someone who things everyone in the past was stupid, and that
nothing of quality can be made without machines.  Like the visitor to
Colonial Williamsburg who told the sadler that what he was doing was
impossible because only machines could do that kind of work.  Or another,
who wondered with awe if they had needles "back then".

It's not even a matter of what we think is true.  There are plenty of
portraits that show all kinds of fancy woven stuff.  There's no need to
prove anything to an aggressivly misinformed person who probably will find
some reason not to believe you anyway, no matter how sound your evidence,
because they think "it isn't logical."

MaggiRos

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:33:06 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mus=E9e_des_Tissus_catalog=3F?=
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 10:50:22 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>

>You can purchase color slides of the Pourpoint of Charles de Blois from the
>Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.   You can also find pictures of it in a
few books,
>but I haven't seen any in color in the books.

Nor have I.  Does the MdT have a catalog?  Do you know it's name? 
I'm afraid I dont actually own a slide projector.  So retrotech.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:40:25 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg exhibit
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 10:57:34 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


I see in the Jan '00 issue of "Threads" that Colonial Williamsburg has an
exhibit "Revealing Fashions" (1750-1790) where the garments are shown
specifically to reveal construction techniques.  There's a book _Costume
Closeup_ supposed to be available soon w/ patterns.
If anyone has seen the show or the book, I'd be delighted to read your
review,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:41:56 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: =?iso-8859-1?Q?RE=3A_H-COST=3A_Mus=E9e_des_Tissus_catalog=3F?=
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 11:58:41 -0700 
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

You can take a slide and have it developed into a pic, or even put on disk!
Got an address for the Museum anyone, or might we find it on line??

-----Original Message-----
From: Cynthia Barnes [mailto:Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 11:50 AM
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Musée des Tissus catalog?



-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>

>You can purchase color slides of the Pourpoint of Charles de Blois from the
>Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.   You can also find pictures of it in a
few books,
>but I haven't seen any in color in the books.

Nor have I.  Does the MdT have a catalog?  Do you know it's name? 
I'm afraid I dont actually own a slide projector.  So retrotech.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi

> Snotty Nonrequested "Advice" Rendered Kuttingly
> 
> Sinfully Nosey Advisor Reminiscent (of) Kobolds
> 
> Sees Nothing Accurate Regardless, Kemosabe
> 

ROTFL especially at the last one!

Henk



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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all


On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, Kat & Kent wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> 
> Snotty Nonrequested "Advice" Rendered Kuttingly
> 
> Sinfully Nosey Advisor Reminiscent (of) Kobolds
> 
> Sees Nothing Accurate Regardless, Kemosabe
> 
> Kat
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

http://www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus/


> You can take a slide and have it developed into a pic, or even put on disk!
> Got an address for the Museum anyone, or might we find it on line??
>
> >You can purchase color slides of the Pourpoint of Charles de Blois from the
> >Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 12:58:35 1999
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Subject: H-COST: brocades, history, etcl
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

MAGGIE SECARA wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
> 
> There's always someone who things everyone in the past was stupid, and that
> nothing of quality can be made without machines.  Like the visitor to
> Colonial Williamsburg who told the sadler that what he was doing was
> impossible because only machines could do that kind of work.  Or another,
> who wondered with awe if they had needles "back then".

I go the other way -- I can't imagine how machines can do
stuff I only know how to do by hand!

As to brocade weaves, the Chinese invented the draw-loom
which allows elaborate patterning. Not sure of the date, 
but poss. B.C.  And the Central Asian and Persian weavers
learned it from them, and so on.
  Numerous examples of T'ang dynasty (ca 8-9th c.) patterned
silks have been found in western China (formerly Chinese
Turkestan) of Chinese manufacture as well as Sogdian and
Iranian. 

Susan F.

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> >You can purchase color slides of the Pourpoint of Charles de Blois from
the
> >Musée des Tissus in Lyon, France.   You can also find pictures of it in a
> few books,
> >but I haven't seen any in color in the books.
>
> Nor have I.  Does the MdT have a catalog?  Do you know it's name?
> I'm afraid I dont actually own a slide projector.  So retrotech.
> --cin

I actually got an email contact from their web site at
http://www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus/musee00.htm and emailed them.  I
explained what I was doing and they recommended 5 images, one of them being
a closup of the fabric that also shows a seem right down the middle of it.
They were very nice to deal with, although the email was about half in
French.  I only purchaced rights to use the images myself.  I did not get
rights to redistribute or publish.

I took the slides and had them scanned so I could print them out and also
blow them up on my monitor to get better detail.  They printed out
beautifuly as 8x10's from my HP 810C on the high grade HP photo paper.

Dan


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg exhibit
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Cynthia,

Book is due out NLT December 31, 1999 and exhibit is due to open the first 
week of January to coordinate with the symposium that starts January 9. Stay 
tuned. I saw a draft chapter in the early stages of development -- comes with 
scale drawings and construction details of selected garments in the CW 
collection.

Sally 

Costume Collections Calendar Series
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <3.0.3.32.19991202100132.006a41ac@pop.service.ohio-
state.edu>, "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
writes

>But I do wonder how UK folks keep natural fibers from deteriorating in
>all the damp.  Or is it only damp in Scotland (where the towels never
>seemed to dry out while I was on vacation there?).

I know Scotland has a terrible social problem of damp in housing, but
I've never had any trouble with fabrics - certainly not in year-to-year
terms, though I don't know about preserving costumes over long periods.
Reasonable heating and ventilation is all it needs.  Admittedly our
towels never dry in the bathroom, but I think that's down to the lack of
either - we hang them over a chair in the living room :)
-- 
Jean Waddie
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Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>

>Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all

This one gets my vote for favorite!!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 13:23:47 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 14:41:31 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Several months ago, we were discussing baby dolls dresses that were popular
in the last 1960s to early 1970s.  These are dresses worn by teenagers that
were VERY short and sometimes had matching short bloomers.  I found Baby
Doll dress documentation last night in an excellent book called Couture- The
Great Designers.   Two designers had pictures of them in the book.  I think
one was Bill Blass in 1968.  My Simplicity patterns date 1971.  The
designers did call them Baby Doll dresses.

The image of my Baby Doll dresses pattern is at
http://www.costumegallery.com/patter1.jpg

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 15:31:51 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur, 
	differences i...
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/3/99 8:09:32 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< In a message dated 12/03/1999 9:35:51 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
 Cheryldee@aol.com writes:
 
 << would have had to be  worked painstakingly by hand.  >>
 
 Err....EVERYTHING before machines were " worked painstakingly by hand".
  >>

Meaning the threads would have had to be woven without the use of a harness.  
Point of clarification.  Cheryl
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

These dresses were also called "skimmers".  Unfortunately, I tossed the pattern I used as a teenager when I moved about a year ago.  Didn't think ANYONE would be interested in it.

Pamela D. 
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



> > >Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for
something
> >
> > Ooh, let's make something up to fit it!

 I can't believe I am actually saying this but...
  How about 'snarc'

Sorry Novice Attempt for Required Costume

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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

>   How about 'snarc'
> Sorry Novice Attempt for Required Costume

Except that it implies that it is the fault of the person being
criticized.  :}
Cynthia


--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>- -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>You can take a slide and have it developed into a pic, or even put on disk!
>Got an address for the Museum anyone, or might we find it on line??

Sure, have a field day.  I didnt see the pourpoint in the pics.  Believe me,
I would
 have downloaded that image so fast even porn pics would pull aside.
http://www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus/
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 17:26:30 -0500 (EST)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
In-Reply-To: <199912031232.AA783679794@Herb-Lore.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any English Lit majors
out there..)

The Hunting of the Snark
or
An Agonizing 8 Fittings

"Just the place for a Snark!"  The seamstress cried,
Arranging her skirts with care;
Wearing machine-stitched clothing with pride,
Her finger aloft in the air.

"Just the place for a Snark!  I have said it twice:
That alone should bring one round.
Just the place for a Snark! I have said it thrice:
By god, I'll stand my ground.

"Come listen, my ladies; I'll tell you again
the five unmistakeable marks
by which you may know, wherever you go,
the warrented, genuine Snarks.

"Let us take them in order.  The first is their taste,
An excess of which makes them quite rude;
Unless it's handwoven, hand-spun and hand-sewn,
You're better off totally nude.

"You may seek them with thimbles--but seek them with care!
You may lure them with velvet as well,
You may ask them for documentation for their
Inexpressibly period smell."

Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at work when...

Drea


On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
> 
> >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> 
> This one gets my vote for favorite!!
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 



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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 14:28:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Lyssandre MacKenzie <lyssandre@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Lyssandre MacKenzie <lyssandre@yahoo.com>

I may "borrow" these with the gracious permission of
the ladies/ gentlemen wo thougth of them!  

Wonderful!!

Noelle 

--- aleed <aleed@dnaco.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any
> English Lit majors
> out there..)
> 
> The Hunting of the Snark
> or
> An Agonizing 8 Fittings
> 
> "Just the place for a Snark!"  The seamstress cried,
> Arranging her skirts with care;
> Wearing machine-stitched clothing with pride,
> Her finger aloft in the air.
> 
> "Just the place for a Snark!  I have said it twice:
> That alone should bring one round.
> Just the place for a Snark! I have said it thrice:
> By god, I'll stand my ground.
> 
> "Come listen, my ladies; I'll tell you again
> the five unmistakeable marks
> by which you may know, wherever you go,
> the warrented, genuine Snarks.
> 
> "Let us take them in order.  The first is their
> taste,
> An excess of which makes them quite rude;
> Unless it's handwoven, hand-spun and hand-sewn,
> You're better off totally nude.
> 
> "You may seek them with thimbles--but seek them with
> care!
> You may lure them with velvet as well,
> You may ask them for documentation for their
> Inexpressibly period smell."
> 
> Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at
> work when...
> 
> Drea
> 
> 
> On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:
> 
> > 
> > -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
> > 
> > >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> > 
> > This one gets my vote for favorite!!
> > 
> > 
> > 
>
_________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 16:10:25 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9912031509450.15527-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 15:32:04 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  Hah!  Perfect.......

 Liadain,
 giggling

> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any English Lit majors
> out there..)
> 
> The Hunting of the Snark
> or
> An Agonizing 8 Fittings
> 
> "Just the place for a Snark!"  The seamstress cried,
> Arranging her skirts with care;
> Wearing machine-stitched clothing with pride,
> Her finger aloft in the air.
> 
> "Just the place for a Snark!  I have said it twice:
> That alone should bring one round.
> Just the place for a Snark! I have said it thrice:
> By god, I'll stand my ground.
> 
> "Come listen, my ladies; I'll tell you again
> the five unmistakeable marks
> by which you may know, wherever you go,
> the warrented, genuine Snarks.
> 
> "Let us take them in order.  The first is their taste,
> An excess of which makes them quite rude;
> Unless it's handwoven, hand-spun and hand-sewn,
> You're better off totally nude.
> 
> "You may seek them with thimbles--but seek them with care!
> You may lure them with velvet as well,
> You may ask them for documentation for their
> Inexpressibly period smell."
> 
> Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at work when...
> 
> Drea
> 
> 
> On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:
> 
> > 
> > -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
> > 
> > >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> > 
> > This one gets my vote for favorite!!
> > 
> > 
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > 
> 
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

 _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 14:35:32 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>  
>  
>  Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all

I vote for this one! 

Kate
----
StitchWitch
In our play we reveal what kind of people we are. - Ovid, c.e. 8





_______________________________________________________
Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://voicemail.excite.com 
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E637841ABC4@scl-exch.phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: h-costume-digest V4 #823
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> >- -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> >You can take a slide and have it developed into a pic, or even put on
disk!
> >Got an address for the Museum anyone, or might we find it on line??
>
> Sure, have a field day.  I didnt see the pourpoint in the pics.  Believe
me,
> I would
>  have downloaded that image so fast even porn pics would pull aside.
> http://www.lyon.cci.fr/musee-des-tissus/
> --cin

They don't have any pics of it online.  You have to pay to get pics.  But,
at least tehy are good, clear pics.

Dan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 16:46:31 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: SAQUEEN@aol.com
Subject: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg costume exhibit
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 15:05:18 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>Book is due out NLT December 31, 1999 and exhibit is due to open the first 
week of January to coordinate with the symposium that starts January 9. Stay

tuned. I saw a draft chapter in the early stages of development -- comes
with 
scale drawings and construction details of selected garments in the CW 
collection.

"Threads" really wrong then.  They say it opened 4 Dec (thru 4 Sept). 
They also said the book s/b in stores on 15 Dec which jives w/ what you say.
It's seems quite cheap at US$25.
Here's the info number if anyone else wants to call: 757..220.7724 CW Dec
Arts Museum.  It's after hours.  The tape has no info about the current
exhibits & programs.
Hmmm, I'd hoped to run thru CW when I'm in VA in a few weeks.  See my old
school, run up & down DOG street. 

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."
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From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg exhibit
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 02:20 PM 12/3/99 EST, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com
>
>Cynthia,
>
>Book is due out NLT December 31, 1999 and exhibit is due to open the first 
>week of January to coordinate with the symposium that starts January 9. Stay 
>tuned. I saw a draft chapter in the early stages of development -- comes with 
>scale drawings and construction details of selected garments in the CW 
>collection.
>
>Sally 
>

        The Colonial Williamsburg newspaper, and the Daily Press both state
that the exhibit opens tomorrow.  

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 16:51:12 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 18:07:15 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg costume exhibit
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

> 
> Hmmm, I'd hoped to run thru CW when I'm in VA in a few weeks.  See my old
> school, run up & down DOG street. 
> 
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes

Hey, another William & Mary alum? Cool!  =) I'm actually going to be driving through the 
burg this weekend.... I'm looking forward to a Cheese Shop sandwich. ;-)

--Jessica (class of '95 - yes, I'm young)
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Well, I don't care if my clothes moths are an endangered species - I'm
squishing them whenever possible, along with all those carpet beetles (who
eat the same things).

BTW, you forgot to list earthquakes (she said, from California).

>>the clothes moth has long since died out in the UK (and poss Europe)...
>--------------------
>
>Question from the U.S. to the U.K....
>Correct me if I'm wrong--the clothes moth has died out, no rabies,
>you don't have killer tornados every spring and fall, the mosquitos aren't
>the size of humming birds, hurricanes don't wipe out your coastal cities,
>your temperatures don't vary from -20 to 100 degrees F with 99% humidity,
>you don't have major droughts that turn everything into a dust bowl, no
>massive fields of ragweed and other allergens everywhere....
>
>I can't decide if it's idyllic or downright unchallenging!  
>
>But I do wonder how UK folks keep natural fibers from deteriorating in
>all the damp.  Or is it only damp in Scotland (where the towels never
>seemed to dry out while I was on vacation there?).



Kayta
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 15:06:58 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: authentic vs. stage/theatrical (was The Messenger/movies)
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

'Innacurate' historical costuming on stage and screen isn't necessarily the
same as bad theatrical/movie costuming.  Sure, there are choices based on
ignorance, but there are also choices based on design, purpose, message,
and like that.  Complain about the first, but understand the second.

There exist some valid reasons why costume designers will choose not to do
100% accurate copies of historical costumes when they costume a
stage/screen production.  Most important is the fact that one can 'talk' to
a modern audience better, in some cases, by digressing from absolute
accuracy in a way that the modern audience can understand.  You can make
statements by choosing what you have the characters wear, even if it isn't
strictly period.  Like having the villain wear a black hat.  Like putting a
Stratford On Avon souvenir mug into the movie Shakespeare In Love, or (same
movie) using Lurex 'gold' embroidery so there will be enough glittery gold
on the costumes.  Like simplifying the details so they will show up from
the last row of seats in the theatre.  

Budget is another factor.  As in, how good can we afford to get, or how can
we suggest what we want using only the money we have.  "Champaigne period
on a beer budget".  I am usually of the '3-D Xerox' school of historical
costuming, but have also done some theatrical costuming - sometimes I have
been allocated less for the entire costuming budget than I have spent on
single historical outfits of my own.

>It seems like many of you here on the list seem to disapprove of the 
>costumes in many  movies, including most recently,  _The Messenger_.
>
>May I respectfully request that instead of just making blanket negative 
>statements, perhaps  it would better serve everyone on the list if we were 
>more specific and give real reasons why a particular article was or wasn't 
>correct.  References to good books and websites are always welcome.  I, like 
>many others here, am a novice costumer/historian.  Every day I try to 
>improve upon my knowledge base, and this list is a very valuable tool for 
>doing so.  I very much enjoy the comments and information shared by 
>everyone, but IMHO it serves no real purpose to just flatly dismiss 
>something just because "I heard it was awful".  
>
>Another observation:  I've often gotten the impression in different movies 
>that the costumes may not be correct for the time that is being portrayed, 
>but perhaps were perfectly acceptable in and of themselves.  In other words, 
>"good costume, wrong movie".  Yes, No?



Kayta
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

carpet-beetle)

All sorted now thanks to some nasty stuff 
>from the local vet, 

Please tell.  What nasty stuff is this?  In addition to everything else, we
have wool carpeting here. 


Kayta
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 15:07:06 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Snaps
In-Reply-To: <002401bf3bb5$e552ee40$dc920f3f@pbc.adelphia.net>
References: <009d01bf3b9b$9c437720$94a2193f@oemcomputer>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Teens or early twenties?

>When did snaps come into play for clothing and accessories?  General time
>frame is fine.  I am just too tired to look into myself and thought maybe
>someone knows off the top of their head.  It's not important, just curious.



Kayta
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Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 15:47:37 -0800
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:
>Ahh, but we have other challenges, like American actors who
>*think* they can do English accents (anyone watch "Buffy"?) and
>MacDonalds.

Ah, c'mon, Spikey is *cute*!

Now what i can't stand is Gwenyth Paltrow's awful fraudulent English 
accent, fortunately somewhat modified and improved in "Shakespeare in 
Love". She sounds like she has a clothespin on her nose and something 
is wrong with her palate...

OK, i know there's no costume content in this... sorry...

Lilinah

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/03/1999 5:26:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
aleed@dnaco.net writes:

<< With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any English Lit majors
 out there..)
  >>
I use to have this in a big book with fantastic lithographs for the award 
winning illustrations by.....by....Damn! Ralph ....something that begins "ST" 
[he also illustrated an "Alice in Wonderland" and a Through the Looking 
Glass"...all incredibly wonderful!]
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Yea,

That's good news that the exhibit is open during the busy Christmas season. 
Thanks for the update!

Ron, any mention of book publish date?

Sally

Costume Collection Calendar Series
Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Oh, Brava, Milady!

Now the big question...does this go on your website or mine?  It's too good
not to share!

Margo


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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>I use to have this in a big book with fantastic lithographs for the award
>winning illustrations by.....by....Damn! Ralph ....something that begins "ST"
>[he also illustrated an "Alice in Wonderland" and a Through the Looking
>Glass"...all incredibly wonderful!]

Ralph Steadman. Very psychotic looking. I have a couple of his books...


Lilinah

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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 16:55:32 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> The Hunting of the Snark
> or
> An Agonizing 8 Fittings
>
> Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at work when...

ROTFLMAO!!!      I pray that you continue in this vein, you clearly have a
knack.  And then when you've covered all bases, please, on any website!

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 20:15:03 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 18:29:34 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
   differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:34 AM 12/03/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
>At 09:55 AM 12/03/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>>-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>>
>>Snark was what I meant.   Darn I thought it was an acronym for something
>
>Ooh, let's make something up to fit it!
                    Well, the 'sn' part must stand for "snide"... Carol
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 22:00:11 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Colonial Williamsburg exhibit
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 07:09 PM 12/3/99 EST, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com
>
>Yea,
>
>That's good news that the exhibit is open during the busy Christmas season. 
>Thanks for the update!
>
>Ron, any mention of book publish date?
>
>Sally
>
>Costume Collection Calendar Series
>Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
>http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com

        It sounds like the book has been held up...I am wondering if that is
part of the inconsistancy with the dates.  I may go see the exhibit sunday.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 21:11:25 1999
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 15:23:14 -0800
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>

Ney, I say.  Skimmers were longer than baby doll dresses.  Skimmers were
very light material - sometimes permanent pleated which like - floated
around you as you moved, but came closer to the knee than the crotch (some
more modest ones wore them to the knee).  Baby dolls inspired some to wear
them so short that you always saw the ruffles underneath. ;-)). 

Islyle
who was thin enough back them to hem her babydolls.
----------
> From: Panmela@aol.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
> Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 1:33 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Panmela@aol.com
> 
> These dresses were also called "skimmers".  Unfortunately, I tossed the
pattern I used as a teenager when I moved about a year ago.  Didn't think
ANYONE would be interested in it.
> 
> Pamela D. 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 21:28:48 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
  differences i...
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:33 AM 12/3/99 EST, Cheryldee@aol.com wrote:
>
[snip]
>
>OK.  I'm not a weaver although I have dabbled.  My recollection is that the 
>fancy loom you're referring to is the Jaquard loom which was a 16-harness 
>loom.  Before that 2 and 4-harness looms were the standard.  This would mean 
>that each motif would have had to be  worked painstakingly by hand.  No small 
>feat, but doable.  Cheryl Odom, not an authority by any means

Actually, draw-looms capable of weaving all sorts of very complex patterns
were developed in China more than two millenia ago. Other looms using sets
of pattern headles (also called harnesses) were developed in various places
around the world a loooooonnnng time ago.

Two- and four-harness looms are perhaps the most common for everyday
fabrics, but the highly decorated (and *extremely* expensive) woven fabrics
used many more harnesses (i.e., groups of headles controlling particular
warp threads to make the patterning easier); weaving satin fabrics (silk or
wool) can use 7 harnesses to keep the smooth, glossy threads of the warp
showing an almost unbroken surface.

Apparently the person who inspired the first message in this thread has
*never* studied anything about the history of weaving. Or spinning. Or
dyeing. Our ancestors had to be clever to manage; some of our oh-so-smart
moderns would have never made it to adulthood, let alone reproduced.

Can you guess that fiber and fabric technologies are special interests of
mine? <VBG> Sorry for getting on such a high soapbox, but I am constantly
irritated by the attitude that everything was "crude" in the 19th century
and earlier. Humph..Our woolen fabrics (not all, but quite a large
proportion) would not have been given approval by the medieval guilds of
weavers because they are not properly finished. ... I had best get down off
this soapbox, the air is getting thin...

Back on the ground now. That's better <g>.  A wonderful book for learning
about the impact of cloth-making in the lives of women in Europe and the
Mideast is "Women's Work: the first 20,000 Years" by Elizabeth Wayland
Barber, published in 1994 [ISBN 0-393-03506-0 (hardback)]. It's an expanded
chapter from her earlier book, "Prehistoric Textiles: the Development of
Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with Special Reference to the Aegean"
(a wonderful scholarly book for fanatics like me <g>).

I'll sign off and go lay down on my ice bag for a while (it's for my lower
back, not my head <g>).

>From an easily aroused spinner and weaver in the Central Valley of
California, where a cold wind is blowing masses of leaves around,

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 22:54:28 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 00:11:57 +0100
From: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>
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-Poster: Lois <books@woodenporch.com>

I have listed 2 very nice historic costume books on ebay:

Concise History of Costume and Fashion
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=212944598


Modes and Manners 16th C by von Boehn
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=213551061

Lois




--
Lois Mueller
Wooden Porch Books
books@woodenporch.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 23:09:32 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 00:27:53 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/3/99 1:43:40 PM Central Standard Time, 
penny.creative.outlets@erols.com writes:

<<  baby dolls dresses that were popular
 in the last 1960s to early 1970s.   >>

I never wore the dresses but I had several of the baby doll pj's.  I had one 
in red with little white hearts on it.  It had the matching panties.  It was 
one of my favorite as a young teen.  
I have some of my old patterns that my mom made me as a child.  Some of them 
are "in" again.  I have a top that would fit my daughter.  I just might make 
it up for her.
Now if I could find some of my favorite materials from back then.  One was a 
blue knit with penguins on it.  
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 23:44:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 22:05:40 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 03:23 PM 03/12/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
>
>Ney, I say.  Skimmers were longer than baby doll dresses.  Skimmers were
>very light material - sometimes permanent pleated which like - floated

Permanent pleated material? As in you can wash it and possibly dry it and
no ironing and no drycleaning?

Is it still around? and what would the content be?

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec  3 23:53:36 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
 differences in 	 fabric treatments
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)
>who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving (with
>different colors)wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
>didn't exist'.

Perhaps she suffers from Black and White book photo syndrome :-)  I believe
there are some descriptions and black and white photos of some very
detailed muli-colored brocades in the Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd. There
are additional descriptions in text. Also there are some examples in Five
Centuries of Italian Textiles, A Selection from the Museo del Tessuto Prato
1300-1800 (No ISBN) organized by Rosalia Bonito Fanelli 1981

One thing to be careful of is popularity and fashion in period, and just
because it was possible, doesn't mean a particular pattern or color
combination was worn as clothing. By the pictoral evidence I have, I would
say that 3 or more colored brocades in Europe became much more popular
after 1600, though there seemed to be a brief fad in the late 15th c Italy.
Early 16th c German costumes are usually single colored or two colored.
When they are two-toned, inevitably one of the colors is black,
white/silver, or orange/gold. Their clothing brocade choices seemed to tend
toward heraldic color mixtures in taste, yet background furniture textiles
are more often multicolored brocades. In the book Textiler Hausrat,
Kleidung un Haustextilien in Nurnberg von 1500-1600 by Zander-Seidel, there
are chapters devoted to house textiles. These were often woven specifically
for various household purposes or decoration and clearly had some popular
patterns and weaves.  IMHO, we don't wear upholstery fabric now and they
didn't then.

In general,  I admit I tend to steer people away from brocades, mostly
because it takes a lot of study, analysis and somewhat of a good eye to
pick out a "period" brocade.  Some of the ones I've seen people pick just
come out badly.  When I was costume director of a Landsknecht re-enacting
group, I always pleaded with people to get swatches before purchasing that
showed the whole pattern. I hate to see people spend time and effort into
something that is just not right. The funny thing is that some very
interesting patterns can be found in period brocades. Some are very modern
geometric looking.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 00:01:12 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912040302.TAA02320@ivic.ivic.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 01:18:38 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

That's correct, the purpose of baby doll dresses was to wear them as short
as possible to show the matching bloomers or underpants.  My dress's hemline
met the bottom of the bloomers.  This was a fashion for teenagers.  In the
pattern front that I referred to, the girl on the right is showing her dress
very short and the bloomers showing.

The idea of this teenage fashion was stemmed off of little baby girls who
wore these types of outfits in the early 60s through early 80s.  The
bloomers or underpants were made to match, so that crawling babies' panties
matched their dress.  I had some of these baby doll dresses for Katie in the
early ninties.

Later... Penny

> -Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
>
> Ney, I say.  Skimmers were longer than baby doll dresses.  Skimmers were
> very light material - sometimes permanent pleated which like - floated
> around you as you moved, but came closer to the knee than the crotch (some
> more modest ones wore them to the knee).  Baby dolls inspired some to wear
> them so short that you always saw the ruffles underneath. ;-)).


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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 23:53:08 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

HERE! HERE! AND VIVOT!

If we were voting on such a thing, this gets mine.  Good going Drea.

Kathlene

----------
> From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
> Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 12:04 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
> 
> 
> Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all

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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>



>
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
> >   How about 'snarc'
> > Sorry Novice Attempt for Required Costume
>
> Except that it implies that it is the fault of the person being
> criticized.  :}
> Cynthia

  Yeah, you are right.  I realized it was backwards after I sent it...oh
well.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 03:04:44 1999
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Someone wondered about the origin of the word "snark."  Lewis Carroll wrote a 
poem called "The Hunting of the Snark."  I assume he made it up, as he did so 
many other names.
Ann Wass 
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Drea
How absolutely wonderful. excellent; marvellous; Even as I type my friend is
trying to fit it to music. Could this be the anthem that will be sung at
costume and re-enactor events around the world.? Could it be more popular than
Synchronised Columbo. To whom should royalties be sent?
The next quiet Friday you get  finish the whole thing and let us know when it
hits Broadway; Perhaps Sir Cliff will be interested- he is not having a very
good time at the moment - bit of flack for ressurecting an Oldie for his
Christmas single and not selling out for his millennium concerts.
Keep up the good work.
Dave>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 09:59:28 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

In a message dated 99-12-03 22:31:16 EST, you write:

> Skimmers were longer than baby doll dresses.  Skimmers were
>  very light material - sometimes permanent pleated which like - floated
>  around you as you moved, but came closer to the knee than the crotch (some
>  more modest ones wore them to the knee).  Baby dolls inspired some to wear
>  them so short that you always saw the ruffles underneath. ;-)). 
>  
Well, I found the ANCIENT photo of me in my skimmer and it BARELY covered my 
rearend - the same length you describe for the baby doll.  It had bottoms  - 
somewhat skimpy ones  <G>but they were there - to go with it.   I don't 
remember anyone wearing something close to the knee and calling it a skimmer. 
 But then at the advanced age of 43 my brain may have turned to mush  ;-).

Pamela D. 

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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,differences in 	 fabric treatments
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!
>>I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)


I was one of the folks who popularized its usage in the SCA, in the term
"garb snark" as a substitution for a term using the "N"-word, some years
ago.  I don't know that I actually invented the term, but for me was a back
formation of the term "snarky", as in "snarky remarks".  The fact that the
description of the snark in "The Hunting of the Snark" kinda fits was one of
those serendipidous sorts of things.....

I continue to promote the term, because I don't like the term "Nazi" used so
lightly, and "authenticity police" makes it seem as if those interested in
authenticity are by definition "enforcers."

Nicolaa

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 10:47:05 1999
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From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9912031509450.15527-100000@kirk.dnaco.net> <004701bf3e72$ac9960b0$01075cc3@herimats>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 10:04:54 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> The next quiet Friday you get  finish the whole thing and let us know when
it
> hits Broadway; Perhaps Sir Cliff will be interested- he is not having a
very

If it goes to Broadway, who's going to do the costumes? <BG>



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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 09:59:02 -0800
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

Here! Here!

Pray, do continue it!!!

    |                  
    |      
    |     Joan Broneske
   \|/    unicorn@softcom.net
   /|\
  //|\\ 

-----Original Message-----
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 2:26 PM
Subject: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark


>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any English Lit majors
>out there..)
>
>The Hunting of the Snark
>or
>An Agonizing 8 Fittings
>
>"Just the place for a Snark!"  The seamstress cried,
>Arranging her skirts with care;
>Wearing machine-stitched clothing with pride,
>Her finger aloft in the air.
>
>"Just the place for a Snark!  I have said it twice:
>That alone should bring one round.
>Just the place for a Snark! I have said it thrice:
>By god, I'll stand my ground.
>
>"Come listen, my ladies; I'll tell you again
>the five unmistakeable marks
>by which you may know, wherever you go,
>the warrented, genuine Snarks.
>
>"Let us take them in order.  The first is their taste,
>An excess of which makes them quite rude;
>Unless it's handwoven, hand-spun and hand-sewn,
>You're better off totally nude.
>
>"You may seek them with thimbles--but seek them with care!
>You may lure them with velvet as well,
>You may ask them for documentation for their
>Inexpressibly period smell."
>
>Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at work when...
>
>Drea
>
>
>On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:
>
>> 
>> -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
>> 
>> >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
>> 
>> This one gets my vote for favorite!!
>> 
>> 
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>> 
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912031232.AA783679794@Herb-Lore.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi

> >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> 
> This one gets my vote for favorite!!

Mine too...

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 12:14:53 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1D0F5BB98E98D311B17E0008C75D0B3A03EC1F@HHSMAIL>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' 
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

>  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
> They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
> it.

ROTFL again! 

Henk

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9912031509450.15527-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 19:25:30 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi,

Drea wrote:
> With heartfelt apologies to Lewis Carroll. (and any English Lit majors
> out there..)
>
> The Hunting of the Snark
> or
> An Agonizing 8 Fittings
>
> "Just the place for a Snark!"  The seamstress cried,
> Arranging her skirts with care;
> Wearing machine-stitched clothing with pride,
> Her finger aloft in the air.
>
> "Just the place for a Snark!  I have said it twice:
> That alone should bring one round.
> Just the place for a Snark! I have said it thrice:
> By god, I'll stand my ground.
>
> "Come listen, my ladies; I'll tell you again
> the five unmistakeable marks
> by which you may know, wherever you go,
> the warrented, genuine Snarks.
>
> "Let us take them in order.  The first is their taste,
> An excess of which makes them quite rude;
> Unless it's handwoven, hand-spun and hand-sewn,
> You're better off totally nude.
>
> "You may seek them with thimbles--but seek them with care!
> You may lure them with velvet as well,
> You may ask them for documentation for their
> Inexpressibly period smell."
>
> Yes, I'll stop now...You know it's a slow friday at work when...
>
> Drea
>
>
ROTFL again!! This is getting outa hand! I feel my sides splitting... help!

Henk

PS  Tomorrow is St Nicholas overhere and a tradition with the Dutch is:
sticking poems (well, rhymes actually...) with the presents. They have to be
humorous and must say something about some defects or quirks of the
receiver. Is Drea Dutch, you think? She'll fit the bill! Easily!

Henk
> On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:
>
> >
> > -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
> >
> > >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> >
> > This one gets my vote for favorite!!
> >
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
>
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 13:32:19 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Snaps
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

I have an original 1909 ad in my bathroom which advertises "press fasteners" 
for sale and they are what we call snaps today. Hope this helps a little. Mela
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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 13:48:23 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "snark"
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.4.10.9912031355580.15527-100000@kirk.dnaco.net>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 02:04  03/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
>
>Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all

My vote is with this one!

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 10:40:23 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

> and "authenticity police" makes it seem as if those interested in
>authenticity are by definition "enforcers."
>
>Nicolaa

So true and often such an incorrect assumption.  If someone asks why I did
something such and such a way or if such and such was period, I'll provide
my opinion, though usually couched with "this is the information I have at
this time" or "based on the documentation I've seen so far". I can't
imagine walking up to someone and critiquing their attire or other art
endeavor in most forums, especialy the SCA. It would just be rude.  There
are other re-enacting groups that have designated costume directors that
are concerned with such, but the people belonging to those groups have
already bought in to the level of authenticity that is required or they
wouldn't be there.  I've been in that position and did not find it a
particularly fun job.  The person in that position needs to have "teeth"
and so often the promised support from others in the group flitters away
when the "standards" really need enforcing.  Especially if its a big shot's
girlfriend or a good party buddy.  My biggest irritation is when "not so
knowledgable" members of the re-enacting group decide to become
"enforcers", but are actually just garb snarks.  Inevitably they are less
than tactful and often seem to take some joy in causing other people grief.
And usually they really don't know what they are talking about and end up
spreading costume myths that are often hard to get rid of.

On the other hand, I've heard requests from some of the journeyman and
senior level artists in our SCA area to have a forum to be able to ask for
a private and true critique of the Laurel "experts".  I would still do my
best to be very cautious and tactful in that kind of situation.

And gosh knows that I  don't worry about authenticity 100% of the time.
Just try being 100% authentic with a toddler....

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 12:36:55 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 13:54:08 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book' & SNARKS
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>This is an incredible book, I woke up early to read more.  Another
>question: I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it
>come from?) who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or >patterned
weaving (with different colors)wasn't possible between 1550->1600 because
the 'machines didn't exist'.

You could always tell them to check out the book:

"Prehistoric Textiles" by E.J.W. Barber.  ISBN 0-691-03597-0\

This is a fabulous book!  I saw Dr. Barber lecture on "The Mummies of
Urumachi"  (sorry I can't spell the wretched name <g> ) and she is
incredibly knowledgable!  On page 10 of "Prehistoric Textiles" she mentions
that some textile bits found from 3000 B.C. included brocading!  Isn't that
just totally WOW!  

Anyway, now you can tell the SNARK to stick that in her pipe and smoke it.  ;)

Cheers,
Danielle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 13:32:35 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>>  
>Well, I found the ANCIENT photo of me in my skimmer and it BARELY covered my 
>rearend - the same length you describe for the baby doll.  It had bottoms  - 
>somewhat skimpy ones  <G>but they were there - to go with it.

We called those "sizzlers". 

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 14:08:16 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: The Hunting of the Snark
In-Reply-To: <008801bf3e85$a96675a0$18d6f1c3@henk>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Wow, I didn't know the extent of people's enthusiasm for this one!  It's
quite flattering.  :)

If anyone puts it to music or wants to continue it, I'd love to see/hear
it.  I just picked a few verses at random.

Thanks,

Drea
Terrorizor of Snarks (and Boojums) Everywhere


> PS  Tomorrow is St Nicholas overhere and a tradition with the Dutch is:
> sticking poems (well, rhymes actually...) with the presents. They have to be
> humorous and must say something about some defects or quirks of the
> receiver. Is Drea Dutch, you think? She'll fit the bill! Easily!
> 
> Henk
> > On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, heather  wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > -Poster: "heather " <heather@Herb-Lore.com>
> > >
> > > >Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all
> > >
> > > This one gets my vote for favorite!!
> > >
> > >
> > >  _________________________________________________________________
> > >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 16:40:30 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Q E's Wardrobe Unlock'd
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd *is* available through Amazon.co.uk!! My
copy is in the mail... I ordered it on 30 Oct and it was shipped on 26 Nov
(the day my credit card was charged) via Royal Mail. Price, with air mail
shipping from the UK, was GBP79.95, which translated to US$129.81, a bargain
in my book. Now all I need to do is wait until it arrives...

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 18:21:13 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991202191050.MPXL20526.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 00:40:00 -0000
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BF3EB9.4352E080
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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WTO - very OTRobb;=20
Without differing with you in any respect; I would just say that you are =
lucky it gets into the media.
Here in the UK such things tend not get reported and if they are, are =
down played. During Kosovo daily demonstrations in our major cities were =
just not covered in our own media.
I do a little part time photowork for  a collective that specialises in =
pics of such for the dailies- a very mean time was had by all - the =
whole market just suddenly dried up overnight, leaving us with reams of =
unsaleable pictures.
Take care.
Dave
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: R.L. Shep=20
  To: h-costume=20
  Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 7:15 PM
  Subject: H-COST: WTO - very OT


  If you are not interested - delete this - but I think it is important =
for everyone to know what is happening in Seattle.=20

  I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that could be a =
trouble
  spot.
  But I cannot get anything done. I just stay glued to the TV. There are
  pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations. I watch all of it.
  The police are PIGS. It is bad enough that they will not allow people =
to
  protest... but they make rules and then break their own rules. They =
set up
  a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and arrest people =
OUTSIDE of
  that area. I know any numbr of people who were gassed trying to get =
home from work.
  AND the things that they have been doing on Capital Hill at night are =
beyond
  belief.
  I really would like to know why they make it a point of beating women =
and
  obviously gay men on Capital Hill. People who are doing nothing but =
walking
  from one place to another. This is not a *no protest zone* this is
  basically a residential - known gay - area.
  I am FURIOUS. It is best that I stay far away from it all.
  The ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD.=20
  I will be glad when this is all over. But it won't really be over =
because
  the mayor and the police have a lot to answer for and I am sure that =
people
  here will not let them forget it.

  ~!~ R.L.Shep
  http://www.rlshep.com



------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BF3EB9.4352E080
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>WTO - very OT</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2722.2800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Robb; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Without differing with you in any =
respect; I would=20
just say that you are lucky it gets into the media.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Here in the UK such things tend not get =
reported=20
and if they are, are down played. During Kosovo daily demonstrations in =
our=20
major cities were just not covered in our own media.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I do a little part time photowork =
for&nbsp;&nbsp;a=20
collective that specialises in pics of such for the dailies- a very mean =
time=20
was had by all - the whole market just suddenly dried up overnight, =
leaving us=20
with reams of unsaleable pictures.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Take care.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:rlshep@home.com" title=3Drlshep@home.com>R.L. =
Shep</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com"=20
  title=3Dh-costume@indra.com>h-costume</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, December 02, =
1999 7:15=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> H-COST: WTO - very =
OT</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=3D4><TT>If you are not interested - delete =
this - but=20
  I think it is important for everyone to know what is happening in =
Seattle.=20
  <BR><BR></FONT>I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that =
could be=20
  a trouble<BR>spot.<BR>But I cannot get anything done. I just stay =
glued to the=20
  TV. There are<BR>pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations. I =
watch all=20
  of it.<BR>The police are PIGS. It is bad enough that they will not =
allow=20
  people to<BR>protest... but they make rules and then break their own =
rules.=20
  They set up<BR>a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and =
arrest=20
  people OUTSIDE of<BR>that area. I know any numbr of people who were =
gassed=20
  trying to get home from work.<BR>AND the things that they have been =
doing on=20
  Capital Hill at night are beyond<BR>belief.<BR>I really would like to =
know why=20
  they make it a point of beating women and<BR>obviously gay men on =
Capital=20
  Hill. People who are doing nothing but walking<BR>from one place to =
another.=20
  This is not a *no protest zone* this is<BR>basically a residential - =
known gay=20
  - area.<BR>I am FURIOUS. It is best that I stay far away from it =
all.<BR>The=20
  ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD. <BR>I will be glad when =
this is=20
  all over. But it won't really be over because<BR>the mayor and the =
police have=20
  a lot to answer for and I am sure that people<BR>here will not let =
them forget=20
  it.<BR><BR>~!~ R.L.Shep<BR><FONT=20
  color=3D#0000ff><U>http://www.rlshep.com</U></FONT><BR><FONT=20
size=3D4><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></TT></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BF3EB9.4352E080--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 21:29:07 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Off topic - sewing machine advice requested.
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 22:48:55 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>


After reading this list the past year or so, I am finally ready to fix up my
sewing space.  I have a dress form on order, the parts to make a large
ironing table, and find to my horror that there are loud grinding noises
coming from my sewing machine. I figure I sew enough to upgrade to a fairly
decent one (better than the $150 Sears Kenmore I've been abusing for the
past 15 years), but would like some advice.  I understand Bernina's are good
(G-Street uses them in their classes), but what about the other brands?  Who
makes the Sears ones these days?  What about Brother, Singer, Husqvarna
(sp?), Pfaff?  I need to keep this in the triple digit price range.  If you
want to keep this off the list you can email me privately.  Thank you.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 22:48:58 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Off topic - sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

My next sewing machine will be a Pfaff.  I think all of the European machines 
are of good quality, but I have had a Pfaff serger since 1992 and love it.  
The only problem I have ever had with it is that the timing finally had to be 
readjusted this year.  The model I want (the number escapes me) was on sale 
for $899 last summer, so is within the 3-digit price range if you can find it 
on sale.  (My regular sewing machines are a 20 year old Singer and a 26 year 
old Kenmore.  They are okay, but how I long to get an exciting new machine!)
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 22:53:59 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 23:12:46 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I have a White Jeans machine... it sews leather, has a triple lock
stitch, a free arm and I've done four plays & a Ren Faire with it as
well as mundane sewing with no problems.  I paid $280 which included
three years of free maintenance.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 22:56:55 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

At my second event I think it was, I was wearing a cream flannel dress
that had a wide (about a foot) stripe of rust colored fabric sewn about
four inches from the bottom with another strip of cream sewn to it to
make it floor length.  I had someone come up to me and tell me that they
did NOT "do that" in the middle ages.  I looked at her and said
something along the lines of, "I did it this way because I didn't have
enough fabric to make a full length dress from just the cream... somehow
I seriously doubt that my ancestors were *dumber* than I am... I'm sure
they were quite capable of coming up with the same solution."  Just the
fact that I didn't take the... let's be polite... stern criticism...
seemed to startle her.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:10:27 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Reenactment Episode
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 00:27:25 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Did anyone catch the Thanksgiving week episode of Southpark?  It was the
funniest yet.  They did a reenactment of the Civil War.  Cartman was Robert
E. Lee.  We were ROTFL.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:20:01 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Off topic - sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

 
> My next sewing machine will be a Pfaff.  I think all of the European machines 
> are of good quality, but I have had a Pfaff serger since 1992 and love it.  
> The only problem I have ever had with it is that the timing finally had to be 
> readjusted this year.  The model I want (the number escapes me) was on sale 
> for $899 last summer, so is within the 3-digit price range if you can find it 
> on sale.  (My regular sewing machines are a 20 year old Singer and a 26 year 
> old Kenmore.  They are okay, but how I long to get an exciting new machine!)

I'd agree with this. I have 2 sergers and 2 sewing machines (all 
Pfaffs). After working with them and several other machines over the 
years both at home and with others, I don't think I'd want any other 
kind. Of course, that doesn't stop me from wanting a machine which 
only does embroidery. Sigh. ;)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:34:30 1999
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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 21:57:33 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3027189454_67931_MIME_Part
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I read the *Electronic Telegraph* everyday. Interesting.  They reported
Seattle a bit, not much.  They also reported the demonstration outside
Euston Station on the Monday of last week.
Sometime I learn more about what is going on the the US from them than I do
from our papers and webpapers.
During this whole thing with the WTO I was most interested to see what made
the *national media* here.   Some of it got through.
We had 24 hour coverage on one local TV station and pretty good coverage on
other ones here.
What you have to keep in mind that you are closer to New York and we are!! 
The US is a BIG country.  And like it or not, if it does not make the news
in New York then it is not news!
Robb
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT
Date: Sat, Dec 4, 1999, 4:40 PM


Robb; 
Without differing with you in any respect; I would just say that you are
lucky it gets into the media.
Here in the UK such things tend not get reported and if they are, are down
played. During Kosovo daily demonstrations in our major cities were just not
covered in our own media.
I do a little part time photowork for  a collective that specialises in pics
of such for the dailies- a very mean time was had by all - the whole market
just suddenly dried up overnight, leaving us with reams of unsaleable
pictures.
Take care.
Dave
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From:   R.L. Shep <mailto:rlshep@home.com>  
  To: h-costume <mailto:h-costume@indra.com>  
  Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 7:15   PM
  Subject: H-COST: WTO - very OT
  
If you are not interested - delete this - but   I think it is important for
everyone to know what is happening in Seattle.   
I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that could be   a trouble
spot.
But I cannot get anything done. I just stay glued to the   TV. There are
pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations. I watch all   of it.
The police are PIGS. It is bad enough that they will not allow   people to
protest... but they make rules and then break their own rules.   They set up
a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and arrest   people OUTSIDE
of
that area. I know any numbr of people who were gassed   trying to get home
from work.
AND the things that they have been doing on   Capital Hill at night are
beyond
belief.
I really would like to know why   they make it a point of beating women and
obviously gay men on Capital   Hill. People who are doing nothing but
walking
from one place to another.   This is not a *no protest zone* this is
basically a residential - known gay   - area.
I am FURIOUS. It is best that I stay far away from it all.
The   ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD. 
I will be glad when this is   all over. But it won't really be over because
the mayor and the police have   a lot to answer for and I am sure that
people
here will not let them forget   it.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com


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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>I read the *Electronic Telegraph* everyday. Interesting.=
  They reported Seattle a bit, not much.  They also reported the demonstrati=
on outside Euston Station on the Monday of last week.<BR>
Sometime I learn more about what is going on the the US from them than I do=
 from our papers and webpapers.<BR>
During this whole thing with the WTO I was most interested to see what made=
 the *national media* here.   Some of it got through.<BR>
We had 24 hour coverage on one local TV station and pretty good coverage on=
 other ones here.<BR>
What you have to keep in mind that you are closer to New York and we are!! =
 The US is a BIG country.  And like it or not, if it does not make the news =
in New York then it is not news!<BR>
Robb<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
http://www.rlshep.com<BR>
<BR>
----------<BR>
From: &quot;LDMundy&quot; &lt;dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk&gt;<BR>
To: &lt;h-costume@indra.com&gt;<BR>
Subject: Re: H-COST: WTO - very OT<BR>
Date: Sat, Dec 4, 1999, 4:40 PM<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Robb; </FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Without differing with you in any respect; I wou=
ld just say that you are lucky it gets into the media.</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4">=
<TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Here in the UK such things tend not get reported=
 and if they are, are down played. During Kosovo daily demonstrations in our=
 major cities were just not covered in our own media.</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><=
TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">I do a little part time photowork for  a collect=
ive that specialises in pics of such for the dailies- a very mean time was h=
ad by all - the whole market just suddenly dried up overnight, leaving us wi=
th reams of unsaleable pictures.</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Take care.</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Dave</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
  ----- Original Message ----- <BR>
  </TT></FONT><B>From:</B><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>   R.L. Shep &lt;mailto:rlshep=
@home.com&gt;  <BR>
  </TT></FONT><B>To:</B><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT> h-costume &lt;mailto:h-costume@=
indra.com&gt;  <BR>
  </TT></FONT><B>Sent:</B><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT> Thursday, December 02, 1999 7=
:15   PM<BR>
  </TT></FONT><B>Subject:</B><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT> H-COST: WTO - very OT<BR>
  <BR>
If you are not interested - delete this - but   I think it is important for=
 everyone to know what is happening in Seattle.   <BR>
I have *forced myself* to stay away from any area that could be   a trouble=
<BR>
spot.<BR>
But I cannot get anything done. I just stay glued to the   TV. There are<BR=
>
pro-police TV stations and pro-people stations. I watch all   of it.<BR>
The police are PIGS. It is bad enough that they will not allow   people to<=
BR>
protest... but they make rules and then break their own rules.   They set u=
p<BR>
a *no protest* area and then hassle, beat, gas and arrest   people OUTSIDE =
of<BR>
that area. I know any numbr of people who were gassed   trying to get home =
from work.<BR>
AND the things that they have been doing on   Capital Hill at night are bey=
ond<BR>
belief.<BR>
I really would like to know why   they make it a point of beating women and=
<BR>
obviously gay men on Capital   Hill. People who are doing nothing but walki=
ng<BR>
from one place to another.   This is not a *no protest zone* this is<BR>
basically a residential - known gay   - area.<BR>
I am FURIOUS. It is best that I stay far away from it all.<BR>
The   ACLU is filing a suit against the city - GOOD. <BR>
I will be glad when this is   all over. But it won't really be over because=
<BR>
the mayor and the police have   a lot to answer for and I am sure that peop=
le<BR>
here will not let them forget   it.<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
</TT></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF"><U>http://www.rlshep.com</U></FONT><FONT =
SIZE=3D"4"><TT><BR>
<BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3027189454_67931_MIME_Part--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:42:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 00:00:17 -0600
From: Winifred Smith <winifred.smith@imsday.com>
Organization: Windy's Pockets
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
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-Poster: Winifred Smith <winifred.smith@imsday.com>

I think this group of post is a prime example of something that I keep pointing
out.  If we can get this many names and description of some that was made just 20
or 30 years ago and the ones of us who wore it are still alive, just think of the
differences that must have existed 200 or 300 years ago. I think this is why
historical clothing is so hard to research and causes so much confusion, and why
it is so interesting.

Windy aka Momma M'Crack
Liberty, Texas

Margo Anderson wrote:

> -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
>
> >>
> >Well, I found the ANCIENT photo of me in my skimmer and it BARELY covered my
> >rearend - the same length you describe for the baby doll.  It had bottoms  -
> >somewhat skimpy ones  <G>but they were there - to go with it.
>
> We called those "sizzlers".
>
> Margo
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 22:06:16 -0800
Subject: H-COST: Sorry
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I am sorry about that last message.... I thought I was responding to an *off
list* message.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:44:08 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 01:03:12 -0500
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Back in 1963-5, I had a baby doll dress, but it was emplire waist, full
gathered skirt, and just above knee-length.  I was in college at the
time and the style was rarely worn.  No bloomers needed.  My friends
thought it looked too much like a maternity outfit (even though I was
very thin),so I went back to fitted dresses.  Salem, MA just wasn't with
it.
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston,MA area, USA
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec  4 23:48:57 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 07:08:29 +0100
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Off topic - sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>

I have a Pfaff creative 7550, computer sewing machine, which I got 
in 1995 as a graduation present. It has 200 stitches, it embroiders, 
comes with PC designer software so that you can make your own 
embroidery patterns, sews leather and any other fabric you can 
think off, special transport for chiffon and silks so they won't pucker, 
free arm, many different button holes both mechanically and 
electronically (type in the length and width and it does it 
automatically) and god knows whatever else. I just love it and 
couldn't live without it anymore. Practically indistructible (no plactics 
insides, all metal), three year free service which I didn't need once. 
It is a German make and cost about 4.000 DM, I think that would be 
around 2.000 dollar. I don't know what Pfaff costs in America 
though. It's a machine for a lifetime and a special treat. Today there 
are the 7560 and 7570 on the market.
http://www.pfaff.com/
Just saw they had an English language homepage too.
P.S. I don't recommend Singer, my mother had too many problems 
after only a very few years since Singer switched over to using 
plastic parts inside, some broke and it was impossible to repair it, or 
would have been incredibly expensive. They advertise with 
'featherlight' but I rather have a sturdy though computerised heavy 
model than a lightweight one which breaks easily. So she got a Pfaff 
as well, they have lots of different makes, all levels.
I was told Husquarna is quite good as well. But that's all the makes I 
know, somehow the German/European market is rather ruled by 
Pfaff *laughs* now what a surprise...
Have fun and good luck finding the right machine!
Nicole
************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 23:13:25 -0800
From: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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 differences infabric treatments
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-Poster: Carolyn Richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



"Bergdahl, Stephen" wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
> 
> Maggie makes a very good point.  That type of person will never let
> something as simple as facts get in the way of what they "Know".  Best
> example I have heard to date was at Fort Sutter here in Sacramento.  Someone
> told one of the Docents that the wood floor was "wrong" because they had
> used nails.  After a few minutes of conversion it became clear that there
> was no getting through to this guy that nails are period for most of
> history.  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
> They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
> it.

ROTFL!!!!!  Oh, that's priceless.  I'll have to save that one.

Still giggling,
Carolyn

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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 18:10:39 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

>There  are other re-enacting groups that have designated costume directors
that are concerned with >such,

What's worse is when the costume directors decide to go on "what looks good"
rather than what is accurate.  I've seen examples of this - and the same
people then bag the SCA for not being authentic enough!

What I love though is that a lot of these people are only too willing to use
SCA research - and their garments are accurate - but not  to the time period
of their group!

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn


>

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 01:08:49 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

>
> So true and often such an incorrect assumption.  If someone asks why I did
> something such and such a way or if such and such was period, I'll provide
> my opinion, though usually couched with "this is the information I have at
> this time" or "based on the documentation I've seen so far". I can't
> imagine walking up to someone and critiquing their attire or other art
> endeavor in most forums, especially the SCA. It would just be rude.

Certainly unasked critiquing is rude, and only excusable when it is done in
a fit of absence of mind (and manners), which happens only occasionally.
However, sometimes the critiquing is done to a second party, not involved
with the wearer, who asks "is _that_ period?".  At which time a discussion
takes places (quietly, and away from the wearer).  Unfortunately, many garb
snarks and their counterparts of police, policing garb snarks, then find it
necessary to carry tales to the wearer with "you should hear what Lady X is
saying about _your_ garb."  Usually the language and/or criticism is far
from what was actually said.  The tattletale achieves the smug pleasure of
spoiling someone else's fun, and smearing the people who find authenticity a
fascinating subject in and of itself.

Question however:  The longer I am a Laurel, and in the SCA, the more I
realize I do not know about my chosen field (the Middle Ages in Western
Europe alone is a BIG place!).  What are the suggestions for asking someone
for documentation for a piece you are interested in?  I remember the first
time I saw a replica of one of the Bog Dresses from Denmark (not the Irish
or Herjolfness ones).  It looked so "wrong".  I tried my very best to be
polite and asked where the outfit came from, she was taken aback, and I
think a little scared.  They we went to her car where she had books in
Danish with a picture of the particular find which is a bolero length, short
sleeved top and I think, a string skirt.  I learned something I would not
have known for years by asking for documentation.

At the same event was a young lady dressed right out of Elf Quest, and she
knew it and said so when I asked about her costume.

Bottom line, if you don't ask about something you'll be left ignorant.  The
trick, and it is a real trick, is to ask so you don't come across as
accusatory. With some people this is simply impossible, since the act of
asking the question makes you "rude".

Regina Romsey, OL

>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 04:06:37 1999
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Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_H-COST:_Mus=E9e_des_Tissus_catalog=3F?=
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Nor have I.  Does the MdT have a catalog?  Do you know it's name? 
>I'm afraid I dont actually own a slide projector.  So retrotech.

Cyn - if you get any such slides, please let me lend you my slide projector.


Kayta
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Clothes beasties OT
In-Reply-To: <1aD5pAAcoBS4IwHx@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>I know Scotland has a terrible social problem of damp in housing, but
>I've never had any trouble with fabrics - certainly not in year-to-year
>terms, though I don't know about preserving costumes over long periods.
>Reasonable heating and ventilation is all it needs.  Admittedly our
>towels never dry in the bathroom, but I think that's down to the lack of
>either - we hang them over a chair in the living room :)

Folks in houseboats, and in our Pacific Northwest, sometimes leave a low
wattage lightbulb on all the time in damp closets.  15 watts is enough.
This keeps said closets too dry to allow the growth of mold.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 04:06:39 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 02:23:39 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
In-Reply-To: <LPBBKNMJBFAPBEPPLOBJCEIMCDAA.madilayn@one.net.au>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

and the same
>people then bag the SCA for not being authentic enough!

The thing is that nobody can be 100% accurate.  There's always some point
on which people compromise.  Was the velvet woven by hand, of period
materials, and dyed with period-available dye?  If one so much as used
fluorescent light to sew by, or used modern thread and a modern steel
needle, the garment less than perfectly period.  So why get hung up on
perfectionism?  I can see trying to do things just the way another time or
culture did, for the learning experience, but I can't see the rudeness
which goes with perfectionism.


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
In-Reply-To: <l03130300b46f0b05bfdf@[207.167.66.88]>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Just try being 100% authentic with a toddler....

Let them run around in their shirts.  Plenty of period pictures of that,
pick a period.  And leading strings are always good.  OTOH, I did crochet a
plastic bottle tidy for my kids for Victorian use.


Kayta
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 01:58:06 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: brocades, history, etcl
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>As to brocade weaves, the Chinese invented the draw-loom
>which allows elaborate patterning. Not sure of the date, 
>but poss. B.C.  And the Central Asian and Persian weavers
>learned it from them, and so on.
>  Numerous examples of T'ang dynasty (ca 8-9th c.) patterned
>silks have been found in western China (formerly Chinese
>Turkestan) of Chinese manufacture as well as Sogdian and
>Iranian. 

We're not talking about tapestry weaves here, are we?  The Coptic people
were doing that in some one-digit century, presumable with low-tech looms.


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,
  differences in fabric treatments
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving (with
>different colors)wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
>didn't exist'.  

I have several photos, in an exhibit book from an exhibition of church
vestments, showing very complicated weaves from the 1400's-1600's.  This
ought to be well before M. Jacquard, and his pattern weaving machine, were
born. 


Kayta
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Thank you.  This is indeed the difference between polite and rude.

>Certainly unasked critiquing is rude, and only excusable when it is done in
>a fit of absence of mind (and manners), which happens only occasionally.
>However, sometimes the critiquing is done to a second party, not involved
>with the wearer, who asks "is _that_ period?".  At which time a discussion
>takes places (quietly, and away from the wearer).  Unfortunately, many garb
>snarks and their counterparts of police, policing garb snarks, then find it
>necessary to carry tales to the wearer with "you should hear what Lady X is
>saying about _your_ garb."  Usually the language and/or criticism is far
>from what was actually said.  The tattletale achieves the smug pleasure of
>spoiling someone else's fun, and smearing the people who find authenticity a
>fascinating subject in and of itself.
>
>Question however:  The longer I am a Laurel, and in the SCA, the more I
>realize I do not know about my chosen field (the Middle Ages in Western
>Europe alone is a BIG place!).  What are the suggestions for asking someone
>for documentation for a piece you are interested in?  I remember the first
>time I saw a replica of one of the Bog Dresses from Denmark (not the Irish
>or Herjolfness ones).  It looked so "wrong".  I tried my very best to be
>polite and asked where the outfit came from, she was taken aback, and I
>think a little scared.  They we went to her car where she had books in
>Danish with a picture of the particular find which is a bolero length, short
>sleeved top and I think, a string skirt.  I learned something I would not
>have known for years by asking for documentation.
>
>At the same event was a young lady dressed right out of Elf Quest, and she
>knew it and said so when I asked about her costume.
>
>Bottom line, if you don't ask about something you'll be left ignorant.  The
>trick, and it is a real trick, is to ask so you don't come across as
>accusatory. With some people this is simply impossible, since the act of
>asking the question makes you "rude".



Kayta
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 09:13:05 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: brocades, history, etcl
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 11:13 AM 12/3/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
>
>MAGGIE SECARA wrote:
>> 
>> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
>> 
>> There's always someone who things everyone in the past was stupid, and that
>> nothing of quality can be made without machines.  Like the visitor to
>> Colonial Williamsburg who told the sadler that what he was doing was
>> impossible because only machines could do that kind of work.  Or another,
>> who wondered with awe if they had needles "back then".
>
>I go the other way -- I can't imagine how machines can do
>stuff I only know how to do by hand!
>

        That is what people miss.  It is far more impressive that technology
has given us machines that CAN do work priviously only done by hand.  I work
for the museum mentioned in Maggie's quote, and we get questions doubting
that something can be done or existed in the period all the time.  Rarely is
it about anything that is even NEW in the 18th century.  (I was informed
while locked in an original gaol cell last thursday that there was no METAL
in the 18th century!  Not only were we well into the iron age, but the iron
he mentioned dated from the period!!.

        We are never asked about the steam pump, or the jacquard loom, or
the incredible scientific equipment available in the period, but rather
about nails, neddles, architecture.....

Oh well,

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 08:35:32 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 09:51:05 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 02:23 AM 12/5/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
>and the same
>>people then bag the SCA for not being authentic enough!
>
>The thing is that nobody can be 100% accurate.  There's always some point
>on which people compromise.  Was the velvet woven by hand, of period
>materials, and dyed with period-available dye?  If one so much as used
>fluorescent light to sew by, or used modern thread and a modern steel
>needle, the garment less than perfectly period.  So why get hung up on
>perfectionism?  I can see trying to do things just the way another time or
>culture did, for the learning experience, but I can't see the rudeness
>which goes with perfectionism.
>
>
>Kayta

        There is NO reason that perfectionism and rudeness have to go
together.  The fact that they so often do is unfortunate as it give us
perfectionists who couldn't care less what others do a bad name.  

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 08:57:03 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
In-Reply-To: <015401bf3ed3$a98a54e0$0200a8c0@pavilion>
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

--=====================_207988923==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Some comments on the sewing machine dilemma, from one who has owned 8 
different machines, and 3 sergers:

Don't buy any Singer that is not black cast iron

Bernina makes the BEST home sewing machines. Period.

A good used Bernina sews better than most new machines.

Pfaff does not make any sergers. None of the sewing machine companies do. 
They go to the experts, factories in Japan or China, and have sergers made 
to their own specifications. Of course, they offer their own warranties.

The dealer makes a difference. I hate to say it, but you may be better off 
with a not-quite-as-good brand of machine, if the dealer is friendly, 
helpful, supportive and up-to-date.

New machines are DIFFERENT than your old Kenmore. Computerized machines 
offer many features that save time and effort, and improve your sewing. You 
might need to learn a few new tricks, so it's good to have a dealer who 
gives lessons, which should be included in the price of a new machine, but 
probably not a used one.

Dealers tend to sell machines by extolling their "bells and whistles." 
Manufacturers add lots of stitches, most of which you will never use, to 
make more expensive (and thus more profitable) machines.

These are the features that are really helpful, and get used:

electronic foot control
         The foot pedal responds EXACTLY to what you want to do. One tap, 
and you get the needle up (if it was down) or down (if it was up). Tap the 
other end of the pedal and get one and only one complete stitch.

needle stop up/down
         Electronic machines automatically stop with the needle in the 
fully UP position. Or, push a button and the opposite will always occur.

Remember the flywheel?  I haven't touched mine in years because of these 2 
features. I can keep my hands on the fabric and save time.

reverse sewing control
         Most machines have this button way over to the left. Get one that 
has it just above the needle, so you don't have to take one hand off the 
fabric to use it--just reach up with a thumb. Hey, if women were designing 
these things, all machines would be that way!

knee lever
         This presser foot lifter means you can use your knee to lift the 
presser foot, and don't have to take your hands off the work for turning 
corners or other adjustments, or even to stop and start a seam. WARNING: 
don't use a machine with this lever unless you can afford to buy it. Once 
you get used to this, it's absolutely IMPOSSIBLE to live without!

That said, if you have to choose between all those convenience features and 
a consistently good straight stitch, choose the stitch.

If you haven't had enough of my opinions yet, respond privately and I will 
answer questions.

Kim

At 10:48 PM 12/04/1999 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
>
>After reading this list the past year or so, I am finally ready to fix up my
>sewing space.  I have a dress form on order, the parts to make a large
>ironing table, and find to my horror that there are loud grinding noises
>coming from my sewing machine. I figure I sew enough to upgrade to a fairly
>decent one (better than the $150 Sears Kenmore I've been abusing for the
>past 15 years), but would like some advice.  I understand Bernina's are good
>(G-Street uses them in their classes), but what about the other brands?  Who
>makes the Sears ones these days?  What about Brother, Singer, Husqvarna
>(sp?), Pfaff?  I need to keep this in the triple digit price range.  If you
>want to keep this off the list you can email me privately.  Thank you.
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--=====================_207988923==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
Some comments on the sewing machine dilemma, from one who has owned 8
different machines, and 3 sergers:<br>
<br>
Don't buy any Singer that is not black cast iron<br>
<br>
Bernina makes the BEST home sewing machines. Period.<br>
<br>
A good used Bernina sews better than most new machines.<br>
<br>
Pfaff does not make any sergers. None of the sewing machine companies do.
They go to the experts, factories in Japan or China, and have sergers
made to their own specifications. Of course, they offer their own
warranties.<br>
<br>
The dealer makes a difference. I hate to say it, but you may be better
off with a not-quite-as-good brand of machine, if the dealer is friendly,
helpful, supportive and up-to-date.<br>
<br>
New machines are DIFFERENT than your old Kenmore. Computerized machines
offer many features that save time and effort, and improve your sewing.
You might need to learn a few new tricks, so it's good to have a dealer
who gives lessons, which should be included in the price of a new
machine, but probably not a used one.<br>
<br>
Dealers tend to sell machines by extolling their &quot;bells and
whistles.&quot; Manufacturers add lots of stitches, most of which you
will never use, to make more expensive (and thus more profitable)
machines.<br>
<br>
These are the features that are really helpful, and get used:<br>
<br>
<b>electronic foot control<br>
</b><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>The
foot pedal responds EXACTLY to what you want to do. One tap, and you get
the needle up (if it was down) or down (if it was up). Tap the other end
of the pedal and get one and only one complete stitch.<br>
<br>
<b>needle stop up/down<br>
</b><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>Electronic
machines automatically stop with the needle in the fully UP position. Or,
push a button and the opposite will always occur.<br>
<br>
Remember the flywheel?&nbsp; I haven't touched mine in years because of
these 2 features. I can keep my hands on the fabric and save time.<br>
<br>
<b>reverse sewing control<br>
</b><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>Most
machines have this button way over to the left. Get one that has it just
above the needle, so you don't have to take one hand off the fabric to
use it--just reach up with a thumb. Hey, if women were designing these
things, all machines would be that way!<br>
<br>
<b>knee lever<br>
</b><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>This
presser foot lifter means you can use your knee to lift the presser foot,
and don't have to take your hands off the work for turning corners or
other adjustments, or even to stop and start a seam. WARNING: don't use a
machine with this lever unless you can afford to buy it. Once you get
used to this, it's absolutely IMPOSSIBLE to live without!<br>
<br>
That said, if you have to choose between all those convenience features
and a consistently good straight stitch, choose the stitch.<br>
<br>
If you haven't had enough of my opinions yet, respond privately and I
will answer questions.<br>
<br>
Kim<br>
<br>
At 10:48 PM 12/04/1999 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>-Poster: &quot;Megan McHugh&quot;
&lt;mmchugh@starpower.net&gt;<br>
<br>
<br>
After reading this list the past year or so, I am finally ready to fix up
my<br>
sewing space.&nbsp; I have a dress form on order, the parts to make a
large<br>
ironing table, and find to my horror that there are loud grinding
noises<br>
coming from my sewing machine. I figure I sew enough to upgrade to a
fairly<br>
decent one (better than the $150 Sears Kenmore I've been abusing for
the<br>
past 15 years), but would like some advice.&nbsp; I understand Bernina's
are good<br>
(G-Street uses them in their classes), but what about the other
brands?&nbsp; Who<br>
makes the Sears ones these days?&nbsp; What about Brother, Singer,
Husqvarna<br>
(sp?), Pfaff?&nbsp; I need to keep this in the triple digit price
range.&nbsp; If you<br>
want to keep this off the list you can email me privately.&nbsp; Thank
you.<br>
<br>
&nbsp;_________________________________________________________________<br>
&nbsp;To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com<br>
&nbsp;with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME</blockquote></html>

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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 10:33:01 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I found another brand on the internet last night.  Does anyone have =
experience with Elna?  So far (as oof 10:30 am Sunday), Pfaff and =
Bernina seem to be the favorites.  Thanks again.


------=_NextPart_000_004D_01BF3F0C.1B30BE80
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I found another brand on the =
internet last=20
night.&nbsp; Does anyone have experience with Elna?&nbsp; So far (as oof =
10:30=20
am Sunday), Pfaff and Bernina seem to be the favorites.&nbsp; Thanks=20
again.</FONT></DIV>
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 09:41:17 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
In-Reply-To: <005001bf3f36$062783a0$0200a8c0@pavilion>
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

--=====================_245300==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Elna used to be made in Sweden. Now it is an American company. Many owners 
of older Elnas like them very much, but I don't know how the new machine 
compares.

Another brand you haven't mentioned is Janome/New Home, a Japanese-made 
machine that I have heard good things about.

Kim


At 10:33 AM 12/05/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>I found another brand on the internet last night.  Does anyone have 
>experience with Elna?  So far (as oof 10:30 am Sunday), Pfaff and Bernina 
>seem to be the favorites.  Thanks again.
>>

--=====================_245300==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
Elna used to be made in Sweden. Now it is an American company. Many
owners of older Elnas like them very much, but I don't know how the new
machine compares.<br>
<br>
Another brand you haven't mentioned is Janome/New Home, a Japanese-made
machine that I have heard good things about.<br>
<br>
Kim<br>
<br>
<br>
At 10:33 AM 12/05/1999 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<font size=2><blockquote type=cite cite>I found another brand on the
internet last night.&nbsp; Does anyone have experience with Elna?&nbsp;
So far (as oof 10:30 am Sunday), Pfaff and Bernina seem to be the
favorites.&nbsp; Thanks again.</font><br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>&nbsp;</blockquote></blockquote></html>

--=====================_245300==_.ALT--

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Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 10:43:50 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

In a message dated 12/5/1999 9:58:49 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kimbaird@uswest.net writes:

> Pfaff does not make any sergers. None of the sewing machine companies do. 
>  They go to the experts, factories in Japan or China, and have sergers made 
>  to their own specifications. Of course, they offer their own warranties.
>  
To correct this, true, Pfaff does not make the serger but they DO (at least 
when I bought mine) produce the electronic components.

And I know people that love their Berninas and Vikings, too.  As I said, I 
think any of the European machines are of good quality.

Amen, though, to all the stitches we will never use.  To get the features I 
want, when I can afford it, I will have to take a bunch of other stuff.  It's 
kind of like a car, I suppose.  If you want, say, power windows, you have to 
take the whole "accessory package."  

Ann Wass  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 09:36:19 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 09:55:19 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> >Just try being 100% authentic with a toddler....
> 
> Let them run around in their shirts.  Plenty of period pictures of
> that, pick a period.  And leading strings are always good.  OTOH, I
> did crochet a plastic bottle tidy for my kids for Victorian use.

Well, I must admit that I used disposable diapers/pull-ups with my
children.  OTOH you never *saw* them because they both wear complete &
accurate garb over the items in question.  I did have to use a bottle
with Jennifer but I nursed Corwyn so I didn't have that question with
him and as soon as they went to cups I had child sized tankards for
them.  What always startled me though was seeing children dressed in an
adult t-shirt for a tunic & a pair of tennis shoes.  My children always
wear a t-tunic or dress, tights and either boots, the most period
looking maryjanes I can find, sandals or medieval moccasins.  The latter
are quite economical because the children can wear them for several
years... in fact, from infancy to size 12 (which Jennifer is in now) I
have only had to use five pairs of them.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 10:37:14 1999
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

I love my White too...  It has all metal construction, sews leather
armor and sheer silk with equal ease, and I recently purchased a foot
that will convert it into a one thread serger if I use the correct
stitches.  It has survived 6 years of hard use and my mom dropping it on
concrete without need of repairs.  I do maintain it properly, tho.  ;>
It doesn't have all the bells and whistles that Pfaffs and Berninas of
the same general type do, but it cost me a lot less too.  One word of
warning, do _not_ buy a machine that has plastic parts!  They _will_
wear out.  I spent last night poking at a friend's machine's innards
trying to fix it, until I noticed the gears were worn out....

-Magdalena


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 11:20:27 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 17:56:11 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.ageofelegance.dabsol.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

In my various uk groups we often refer to thes people as doctor details.
In the Napoleonic Association there is one particular person who was
very much like this and often criticised clothing, She also dressed as a
male soldier. On one particular occassion when I was congratulated on a
gown with the aside of 'of course trains were oldfashioned by 1810' I
recall a reply of ----- when you get balls then you can criticise untill
then you are less authentic than I am. 

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 11:39:17 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

>>Bottom line, if you don't ask about something you'll be left ignorant.
The
>>trick, and it is a real trick, is to ask so you don't come across as
>>accusatory. With some people this is simply impossible, since the act of
>>asking the question makes you "rude".


The trick, I've found, is to bubble with enthusiasm. It's very, very
difficult to come off as rude this way.  "What a neat way of cutting that
gown!  It looks wonderful on you.  Where DID you learn to do that?"  That,
along with an open mind (you never know what's going to turn up as being
accurate-people are learning new things about historic dress every day) will
get you far.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 11:43:53 1999
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Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 13:01:46 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #829
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

In a message dated 12/5/99 12:41:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,  someone writes:

<< Elna used to be made in Sweden. Now it is an American company. Many owners 
 of older Elnas like them very much, but I don't know how the new machine 
 compares.>>

Incorrect.  Elnas were Swiss made (though if an American company has bought 
them out, they may be manufactured in this country, too).  

Viking-Husqvarna is/was made in Sweden.  The sewing machine portion of Viking 
was bought by White here in the US, a few years ago I believe). I've sewn on 
both Elnas and Viking, and I bought a Viking 990 (was top of the line when I 
bought it a dozen or more years ago).  I like the machine.. it has more fancy 
stitches than I need, and it's been solid and dependable through a lot of 
sewing... home dec, costuming and professional suits for work.  My 990 isn't 
even in the same LEAGUE anymore as far as bells and whistles with the current 
top of the line machines, though......

I also tried Bernina and Pfaff when I was shopping for a machine.  A close 
friend has a Pfaff (she'd just gotten it) and after using it a few times, I 
didn't like how it felt.  It was (to me) too ponderous... not responsive 
enough to the controls.  The Berninas I tried felt like driving a five speed 
on a dump truck, and the machine I used "hammered" at the fabric.  I was not 
impressed, so I bought the Viking.  This isn't to say that both Bernina and 
Pfaff don't make good machines.... it could easily be that the particular 
models I was looking at were iffy, or that the dealers weren't maintaining 
them properly.... and my experience might be entirely different if I were to 
do the same tests today with my bag 'o scraps.
 
<< Another brand you haven't mentioned is Janome/New Home, a Japanese-made 
 machine that I have heard good things about. >>

I can't speak to the Janome/New Home sewing machines, but I recently (within 
the last six months) retired my Viking serger and bought a Janome CompuLock.  
I absolutely ADORE it!!  (This is my third serger and by *far* the easiest to 
use, and makes an absolutely perfect stitch.  I know I'm not pushing this 
machine's capabilities yet, but it's been very impressive).

Ditto to the comments about buying from a dealer who will actually "be there" 
for you... it makes a world of difference.  

~M
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 16:06:31 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 17:21:58 -0500
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From: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>
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-Poster: Elisee du Lyonnais <elisee@sewingcentral.com>

Minor correction.  An American company, Tacony out of St. Louis is the 
American distributor of Elna Machines (Elna USA).  The machines are NOT 
made in the US.  To my knowledge, there are no sewing machines or sergers 
made in the US with the possible exception of the Featherweight 
reproduction that is coming out this Christmas.  The Elna 9006 (Envision) 
was made in Japan, the CLUB; Switzerland, DIVA; Switzerland, 8000; 
Switzerland, 3007; Taiwan, 3005; Taiwan, 2002, 2004, and 2006; all 
Taiwan.  Book value on the Envision is $659.50.  You might be able to 
pick up one of those used reasonably.

Lisa
www.sewingcentral.com

Kim Baird wrote:

>Elna used to be made in Sweden. Now it is an American company. Many owners 
>of older Elnas like them very much, but I don't know how the new machine 
>compares.
>
>Another brand you haven't mentioned is Janome/New Home, a Japanese-made 
>machine that I have heard good things about.
>
>Kim
>
>
>At 10:33 AM 12/05/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>>I found another brand on the internet last night.  Does anyone have 
>>experience with Elna?  So far (as oof 10:30 am Sunday), Pfaff and Bernina 
>>seem to be the favorites.  Thanks again.
>>>
>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
> >As to brocade weaves, the Chinese invented the draw-loom
> >which allows elaborate patterning. Not sure of the date,
> >but poss. B.C.  And the Central Asian and Persian weavers
> >learned it from them, and so on.
> >  Numerous examples of T'ang dynasty (ca 8-9th c.) patterned
> >silks have been found in western China (formerly Chinese
> >Turkestan) of Chinese manufacture as well as Sogdian and
> >Iranian.
> 
> We're not talking about tapestry weaves here, are we?  The Coptic people
> were doing that in some one-digit century, presumable with low-tech looms.
> 

Hi Carolyn --

Nope. The tapestry weave is one of the few things the Chinese
didn't invent! They learned it from the Central Asian people
(proto-Turks??) who used it in rug weaving. (I've seen this
in print, but don't have the energy to look it up.) Tapestry
weave is ko-ssu (sp?) in Chinese and kesi in Japanese and
I *want* some!

I don't know the technical terms, but someone else also
mentioned that the Chinese invented the drawloom a couple
of millenia ago. And I have definately seen pictures of 
brocaded textiles from the 8th c. One source of documention
is the *fabulous* book "When silk was gold" base on items
in the Cleveland and Metropolitan Museums.

Susan

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 17:55:05 1999
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 19:27:39 -0500
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-Poster: wendy Colbert <wendyc@vivid.net>

Megan McHugh wrote:
> 
> I found another brand on the internet last night.  Does anyone have
> experience with Elna?  So far (as oof 10:30 am Sunday), Pfaff and
> Bernina seem to be the favorites.  Thanks again.
> 
>       
I have an ELna Diva and I love it.  I bought it lightly used to upgrade
from the ancient top of the line Kenmore that I was using.  I purchased
the Diva because a friend had one and I tried hers out and liked it.

It doesn't handle 8 layers of heavy poly cotton as well as the Kenmore
but the embroidery and precision is better.

Wendy Colbert
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 18:13:33 1999
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>What's worse is when the costume directors decide to go on "what looks good"
>rather than what is accurate.  I've seen examples of this - and the same
>people then bag the SCA for not being authentic enough!

I totally agree. I've seen this in the Renn faire stuff a lot, especially
with color "rules", like "no pink", or only the Queen wears purple (even
though the purple they choose is not "Imperial Purple"), but is actually a
purple that can be made with cheaper natural dyes.

A personal example: there was a statement by another costume director that
all men of doppelsoldner rank and above in the landsknecht group should
have more than 3 colors in their costume, yet most of my research indicated
that two colors were predominant, with a very small percentage of 3 or more
colors.  Though it was a "theatrical" decision, it has now become a costume
myth that landsknechts wear so many colors. Between that an the art in the
Osprey Landknecht book, it is now an assumed truth.

Unfortunately even most reeactors do their research by looking at the
clothes other people are wearing, thus my standard warning "its not usually
a good idea to do all your research at an event, and when you do, ask
questions."

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 18:13:45 1999
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 <002301bf3e77$1f98c840$83811a18@dsc.columbus.rr.com>
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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: H-COST:  Kidstuff was (Authenticity Enforcers)
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>>Just try being 100% authentic with a toddler....
>
>Let them run around in their shirts.  Plenty of period pictures of that,
>pick a period.  And leading strings are always good.

I do that, but mine wear disposables and I make diaper covers, neither of
which I have period examples for. And shirts alone only works for warm
days. I even have a coral necklace for my toddler to give him good
health:-) My kids are extremely well-dressed compared to most. I stock up
on period-looking shoes in most sizes when I find them at thrift stores and
such, so I have something for them for most ages.  When we do landsknects,
both boys wear leather puff and slash, striped hosen and feathered hats. My
oldest son, age 6, finally graduated to full lederhosen with codpiece. Very
cute.  When we do 19th c, they've got outfits based on Workwoman's guide
and otehr period paintings and I even put out a 19th c walker for display.
But still I often bring out other items which are not 100% period, like if
we are at an SCA event over 3 days, I will bring out my plastic high chair
for feeding times inside the pavilion, just because it contains the mess of
my youngest who will otherwise scatter food everywhere...

I really needed leading strings for my oldest when he was a toddler. This
second one isn't a runner, so its a lot easier. We also made a wooden
portable fence that is set up as a "play yard" that looks pretty good (and
I have references for similar devices for most periods.) Its usually only
the diaper and shoes part of the costuming that I'm not 100% on,  but since
I'm not perfect, how can I expect others to be?  We usually manage "visual"
accuracy pretty well, but behind the scenes some things are 20th c - like
diapers and plastic bottles.

>OTOH, I did crochet a
>plastic bottle tidy for my kids for Victorian use.

Since I couldn't nurse 100% of the time, I made linen drawstring bags to
cover my bottles. But there is a point that I just don't go too, like
making leather "nipples" for ceramic bottles for example which would be the
16th c equivlent...  but I collect and make cloth, wooden and leather toys
for them to play with, and besides much of the time they are happy with
dirt, sticks and rocks :-)

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 22:42:45 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Interesting item on eBay web site item#212853272: 4  ANTIQUE  WOODEN  SHOE LASTS  /  SHOE FORMS
Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 20:59:34 Pacific Standard Time
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-Poster: joanj@quiknet.com

I saw this item for sale at eBay and thought that someone on the list might be interested.  This seller has several auctions of shoe lasts, so do look at the seller's list.

For any incipient cordwainers, this may be a way to get some shoe lasts at reasonable prices.  Good luck!

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

Title of item:	4  ANTIQUE  WOODEN  SHOE LASTS  /  SHOE FORMS
Seller:	idtrims@ipa.net
Starts:	12/02/99, 18:46:49 PST
Ends:	12/09/99, 18:46:49 PST
Price:	Starts at $9.99
To bid on the item, go to:	http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=212853272


Item Description:		
	This is a lot of 4 ADULT SIZE antique wooden shoe lasts. The shoes you are bidding on are not the exact ones pictured, but almost identical. Shoes may vary in sizes from 5" to 12". See pictures below for other uses. Buyer pays actual shipping, will accept check or money order. Please see my other auctions for more shoe lasts. 






	Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at http://www.ebay.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec  5 23:14:47 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 22:43:52 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

> 
> I totally agree. I've seen this in the Renn faire stuff a lot, especially
> with color "rules", like "no pink", 

Now were would someone get the idea that there was no pink?  What does red
fade to?  In the list of colors of Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe I recall lots
of pinks, they just were not called pink.

At my first Estrella War, I was sitting in camp when a person came in and
said that she had just been told that 'brown' was not period.  I said "That
would mean dirt isn't period".

Kathlene
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 21:36:30 -0800
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From: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Svanhildr Valdimarsdottir <kittykat@primenet.com>

At 09:43 PM 12/05/1999 , you wrote:
>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>
>At my first Estrella War, I was sitting in camp when a person came in and
>said that she had just been told that 'brown' was not period.  I said "That
>would mean dirt isn't period".
>
>Kathlene

<snort>  I just fell of the couch!  That is soooo funny!

Svanny
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Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 21:47:58 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>>Kayta
>
>        There is NO reason that perfectionism and rudeness have to go
>together.  The fact that they so often do is unfortunate as it give us
>perfectionists who couldn't care less what others do a bad name.  
>
>Cheers,
>Ron Carnegie
>rcarnegie@widomaker.com

Striving to achieve perfection doesn't make one a perfectionist.  By
perfectionists I mean those folks so hung up on being perfect that they
can't see any reason not to be.  This makes them unreasonably narrow in
outlook, and they become rude when dealing with other people who have
different goals.  I can't imagine you are what I would call a
perfectionist, regardless of your apparently very high standards. 


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 00:48:59 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 00:44:25 -0600
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Williamsburg book, sewing machines
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

A couple of things:

I read the Threads article about the Williamsburg exhibit, and also saw the
review of the Fashion in Detail book.  I immediately logged on to
Amazon.com, and ordered both the Fashion book and the Williamsburg
patterns.  The Fashion book was $42, rather than the $60 given in the
review.  I have already received it, and after a quick glance decided I
would be doing a lot of drooling - great pics!  The other one Amazon says
it has reserved and will ship when it comes out in February.

As to machines, we tend to the high end - I have a Janome/New Home Memory
Craft 8000, about 6 years old, and it's had no major repairs - just a tune
up now and then.  It was one of the first embroidery machines, which I
wanted, and it sews very well.  My husband just got his new toy -
Husquvarna (Viking) new Designer-1.  We still have my first machine - a 18
yr old or so Kenmore, which gets used for all the really heavy-duty stuff,
as sometimes I don't want the automatic full-stitch-with-one-tap operation
of the computer machines.  This was one of the "Super High Bar" Kenmores -
the main reason I got a new machine was it was just too darned hard to find
feet to fit it.  It's gone thru thick leather, 8 layers of canvas, plastic
canvas, whatever, no problem.  We also have my mothers (less than 10 yo)
Singer - it's a piece of junk.

Just my .02 worth.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 00:54:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 02:07:36 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 10:43 PM 12/5/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>
>> 
>> I totally agree. I've seen this in the Renn faire stuff a lot, especially
>> with color "rules", like "no pink", 
>
>Now were would someone get the idea that there was no pink?  What does red
>fade to?  In the list of colors of Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe I recall lots
>of pinks, they just were not called pink.
>
>At my first Estrella War, I was sitting in camp when a person came in and
>said that she had just been told that 'brown' was not period.  I said "That
>would mean dirt isn't period".
>
>Kathlene

        I think you missed the point of the originial post, that these
decisions were made for "artistic" reasons rather than historical, and then
with time it was forgot that they were not historical decisions.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 01:42:39 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 00:02:36 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: "snark"
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings all,

I'm sorry for jumping into this so late.

Drea had offered:

>> Snotty, Nasty And Righteous Know-it-all

How about:

S-pewing        S-tupid        S-piritual     S-omeone that
N-egativity     N-asty         N-onentity     N-obody
A-bsent         A-nal          A-cquiring     A-cknowledges & is
R-eal           R-etentive     R-ancid        R-arely
K-nowledge      K-illjoy       K-arma         K-ind

Just goofing around,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 01:58:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 00:16:57 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Kidstuff was (Authenticity Enforcers)
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

Julie wrote:

> We also made a wooden portable fence that is set up as a "play yard"
> that looks pretty good (and I have references for similar devices
> for most periods.)

Well, they used to have a fence until a recent night with a new moon when
someone leaving their camp around midnight tripped and fell right through
it...Sorry Julie. :-(

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 10:25:59 +0000
From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #823
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>



Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>>   Someone
told one of the Docents that the wood floor was "wrong" because they had
used nails.  After a few minutes of conversion it became clear that there
was no getting through to this guy that nails are period for most of
history.  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
it.
<<<
An American friend  now resident in the UK claims to have made a similar retort to a fellow-visitor to (I think) an American Civil War battlefield, who asserted that nails were not available then.

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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 22:08:20 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BF4036.67D3AB00
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>Does anyone have experience with Elna?

I swear by my 30 year old Elna.  The best ones are the ones from the 60's -
they have a ful l metal case, and can do everything that a computerised
machine can.  The fancy stitches are done using cams - and one of them even
has a 2 thread overlocking stitch.

I paid $400AUD for mine second hand and re-conditioned - however it was the
top of it's range in the late 60's.

My mother also has an Elna - the same model as mine (the case is cream and
blue) and it has done everything.  She was a professional dressmaker - so it
has had some hard work on lots of different weight fabrics.  It was also
submerged for 5 days under  40 feet of water in 1974 (Brisbane Floods) and
after servicing and cleaning has not had any problems since.

I highly recommend them.  Most Janome retailers also sell Elna.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn


------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BF4036.67D3AB00
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN =
class=3D180470411-06121999></SPAN>&gt;Does anyone=20
have experience with Elna?&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN class=3D180470411-06121999>I swear by =
my 30 year=20
old Elna.&nbsp; The best ones are the ones from the 60's - they have a =
ful l=20
metal case, and can do everything that a computerised machine can.&nbsp; =
The=20
fancy stitches are done using cams - and one of them even has a 2 thread =

overlocking stitch.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN=20
class=3D180470411-06121999></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN class=3D180470411-06121999>I paid =
$400AUD for mine=20
second hand and re-conditioned - however it was the top of it's range in =
the=20
late 60's.&nbsp;</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN=20
class=3D180470411-06121999></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN class=3D180470411-06121999>My mother =
also has an=20
Elna - the same model as mine (the case is cream and blue) and it has =
done=20
everything.&nbsp; She was a professional dressmaker - so it has had some =
hard=20
work on lots of different weight fabrics.&nbsp; It was also submerged =
for 5 days=20
under&nbsp; 40 feet of water in 1974 (Brisbane Floods) and after =
servicing and=20
cleaning has not had any problems since.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN=20
class=3D180470411-06121999></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><SPAN class=3D180470411-06121999>I highly =
recommend=20
them.&nbsp; Most Janome retailers also sell Elna.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<P><FONT color=3D#800080 face=3D"Arial Narrow">Have a terrific =
Day</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT color=3D#008080 face=3DCalligrapher size=3D4>Megan</FONT> </P>
<P><FONT color=3D#800080 face=3D"Arial Narrow">Visit my website:&nbsp; =
<A=20
href=3D"http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/"=20
target=3D_blank>http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/</A></FONT> <BR><FONT=20
color=3D#800080 face=3D"Arial Narrow">ICQ #&nbsp; 57164109</FONT> =
<BR><FONT=20
color=3D#800080 face=3D"Arial Narrow">Yahoo Messageing:&nbsp; =
madilayn</FONT>=20
</P></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BF4036.67D3AB00--

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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 08:58:42 EST
Subject: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



My son (now 3) always wears a t-shirt with my husband's arms stenciled on it. 
Before you criticize -- he WILL NOT wear garb. Any of the nice period things 
we've made for him come off immediately, if we manage to get them on in the 
first place. And both my husband and I try to be authentic -- we garter our 
hose and wear medieval shoes, we always wear period headcoverings, etc. 

I'm not saying that everyone whose children run around in modern clothes to 
costume events are in the same boat. I just want to remind the list that 
there are often reasons we don't know for things we find inexplicable in 
others. But of course, we all know this. Sometimes we just need a reminder.

Gail Finke
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>



> > carpet-beetle) All sorted now thanks to some nasty stuff 
> > from the local vet, 
> 
> Please tell.  What nasty stuff is this?  In addition to everything
> else, we have wool carpeting here. 
> 
> Kayta

To be honest, I can't remember what it was called.  Someone 
suggested I ask in the vet to see if they could suggest something 
and they sold me a huge spray-can of stuff that also does for fleas 
and other nasties that can effect pets.

Treating the house with it involved spraying everything (starting with 
the rooms farthest from the door and working towards the door) 
before leaving for work in the mornin, then leaving allt he doors and 
windows open for at least 30 minutes when we returned in order to 
get trid of the fumes....  But it worked - killed the little buggers and 
stopped their young-uns from hatching/developing.  It said on the 
can it was effective for up to 7 months.  About 18 months later 
there was a repeat of the problem but much smaller and more 
"localized" (traced to something that was brought into the house). 
We retreated the entire place, just to be sure, and haven't had 
problems with it since....

We're considering setting up a "decontamination unit" in the shed - 
any fabric items we buy will be hung in there and sprayed before 
they're allowed in the house....  either that or we put a sewing 
machine and extension-lead out there so we can zig-zag the edges 
of new fabrics then put them into the machine for a good boil before 
they can contaminate the rest of the collection....<g>



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912060533.WAA06147@net.indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 14:29:50 -0000
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



 > -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> 
> > 
  > At my first Estrella War, I was sitting in camp when a person came in and
> said that she had just been told that 'brown' was not period.  I said "That
> would mean dirt isn't period".
> 
  Buttocks clenched for the weekend then?
Sorry -
Dave

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References: <19991206050015.90923A9A49@centaur.qa.ebay.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: I 4  ANTIQUE  WOODEN  SHOE LASTS  /  SHOE FORMS
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 14:27:17 -0000
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



>
> -Poster: joanj@quiknet.com
 > For any incipient cordwainers, this may be a way to get some shoe lasts at
reasonable prices.  Good luck!
>
 Personally I would date these as immediately post war at a pinch; But a word
of warning to those who want to buy them to make shoes- thet are in a bad
state but you also really need TWO - one for each foot,  unless you are
numerically restricted in the lower limb department.
There a couple of Uk firms that have warehouses full of these in pairs and
sets. I have a room full myself
Just thought I would stick in  .
Dave

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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



>
> -Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>
 >
> To be honest, I can't remember what it was called.  Someone
> suggested I ask in the vet to see if they could suggest something
> and they sold me a huge spray-can of stuff that also does for fleas
> and other nasties that can effect pets.
Teddy
 Is it Nuvan-Tops ? comes in two very expensive cans one for the house and one
for cats dogs etc. If so  yes it is tedious but effective but when you get cat
number 7  your clothes are in tatters anyway. They also recognise the colour
of the can the next time around. Only do one room at a time though - if you do
the house in one go - you have to put up a tent in the back yard- I know.
Dave

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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:
> 
> My son (now 3) always wears a t-shirt with my husband's arms stenciled
> on it. Before you criticize -- he WILL NOT wear garb. Any of the nice
> period things we've made for him come off immediately, if we manage to
> get them on in the first place. And both my husband and I try to be
> authentic -- we garter our hose and wear medieval shoes, we always
> wear period headcoverings, etc.

Hey, at least you have the arms on there!!  What do you mean by nice
garb?  With the smalls, I've found that just having a t-tunic of a soft
material is best... tights if you can get them on them... I got some
other kids interested in the medieval moccs by wondering out loud if
they were *old* enough to wear them.  The other type of shoes I use are
so close to sneakers that I never had trouble with either of the kids
and boots are made for stomping so they're fairly easy! <grin>  I found
too that it was easier to get the kids into garb that they had helped
pick out (eg picked out the fabric from my stock or the store).  You
might try asking him what he doesn't like about garb.  I know some kids
don't like certain fabric and if he'll wear a t-shirt it may be that
switching to something like a cotton flannel or a soft linen might help.


> I'm not saying that everyone whose children run around in modern
> clothes to costume events are in the same boat. I just want to remind
> the list that there are often reasons we don't know for things we find
> inexplicable in others. But of course, we all know this. Sometimes we
> just need a reminder.

True... but I must say that my first instinct is still to feel jarred by
it... otoh seeing one with arms on it would lessen that tremendously! 
Most of the parents I've talked to who's kids aren't dressed (most of
them aren't making *any* kind of attempt) say "well, kids won't wear
this kind of stuff"... usually while my kids in garb (her in chemise &
irish, him in t-tunic & tights or tight sweatpants or nothing depending
on the season) are standing right beside me.
Kat
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-Poster: psychopixie@playful.com


I just want to say a huge THANK YOU to everyone who so graciously responded with the information about where to purchase Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'ed.  

So many people responded with different sources, and you all were extremely helpful.  I found out the other day that the very afternoon that I forwarded the info to my fiance, he ordered the book from Amazon.com.UK and the book arrived a week or so ago!  I am so excited- I can't wait for Christmas so I can pore through it!

Thanks to all of you, and I hope that you all have a wonderful Holiday Season!


Sigrid Frazier

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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses
In-Reply-To: <384CA26F.2D29B2E0@imsday.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>

Speaking as one who was not there, what is a skimmer?  I have a pretty
good idea what a babydoll dress looks like, but other than length (well,
sort of) I don't know anything about skimmers.

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, Winifred Smith wrote:

> 
> > -Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> >
> > >>
> > >Well, I found the ANCIENT photo of me in my skimmer and it BARELY covered my
> > >rearend - the same length you describe for the baby doll.  It had bottoms  -
> > >somewhat skimpy ones  <G>but they were there - to go with it.
> >
> > We called those "sizzlers".
> >
> > Margo

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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 14:19:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
cc: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed fur,  differences i...
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19991203194721.3aff4562@mail2.quiknet.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Well said, Joan-- that's a pet peeve of mine, too.  I'm constantly trying
to beat into the heads of a few of my fellow reenactors that EVERYTHING
I've seen from period (mid-18th c.) was MUCH finer than anything we
moderns could reproduce by hand without lots and lots of practice.  (Ok,
so I could actually do a halfway decent job on some common objects.  But
I've been hand-sewing since I was small, just because I like it.   And I
still couldn't possibly replicate some of the handwork done on objects
I've seen from the DAR costume collection.)  Same goes for other hand-made
objects from the period -- people did things well and expected them to
last, by and large.

Our consumer culture, where furniture is made of fiber-board and discarded
after five years, has simply ruined people's appreciation for how much
work and care went into making things and making sure they LASTED.

Cheers,
Mara


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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 10:57:27 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I just want to remind the list that 
>there are often reasons we don't know for things we find inexplicable in 
>others. But of course, we all know this. Sometimes we just need a reminder.

The people on this list seem to be of the reasonable sort, but THANK YOU
for what might be a reality check in other places/situations.


Kayta
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 11:09:31 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
In-Reply-To: <151DDF12CC2@mdx-rf-s1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I will ask my vet about what your bug poison might be.  Thank you for your
reply.  I should be able to set up a decontamination unit here.  

My problem is usually with those bargains from the flea market or yard
sale, especially those which can't be washed, like felt hats or feathers or
shoes.  Maybe quarantine would solve the problem for these items.  If any
signs of infestation appeared, the poison could go into the quarantine bag.
 Thrift stores in California usually have chemical decontamination
procedures - that's what causes that 'thrift store' smell things have.
There may even be a law here mandating such procedure.

>> > carpet-beetle) All sorted now thanks to some nasty stuff 
>> > from the local vet, 
>> 
>> Please tell.  What nasty stuff is this?  In addition to everything
>> else, we have wool carpeting here. 
>> 
>> Kayta
>
>To be honest, I can't remember what it was called.  Someone 
>suggested I ask in the vet to see if they could suggest something 
>and they sold me a huge spray-can of stuff that also does for fleas 
>and other nasties that can effect pets.
>
>Treating the house with it involved spraying everything (starting with 
>the rooms farthest from the door and working towards the door) 
>before leaving for work in the mornin, then leaving allt he doors and 
>windows open for at least 30 minutes when we returned in order to 
>get trid of the fumes....  But it worked - killed the little buggers and 
>stopped their young-uns from hatching/developing.  It said on the 
>can it was effective for up to 7 months.  About 18 months later 
>there was a repeat of the problem but much smaller and more 
>"localized" (traced to something that was brought into the house). 
>We retreated the entire place, just to be sure, and haven't had 
>problems with it since....
>
>We're considering setting up a "decontamination unit" in the shed - 
>any fabric items we buy will be hung in there and sprayed before 
>they're allowed in the house....  either that or we put a sewing 
>machine and extension-lead out there so we can zig-zag the edges 
>of new fabrics then put them into the machine for a good boil before 
>they can contaminate the rest of the collection....<g>


Kayta
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 11:25:42 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Most of the parents I've talked to who's kids aren't dressed (most of
>them aren't making *any* kind of attempt) say "well, kids won't wear
>this kind of stuff"... usually while my kids in garb (her in chemise &
>irish, him in t-tunic & tights or tight sweatpants or nothing depending
>on the season) are standing right beside me.

My younger kid bugged me for a new dress for half the run of Faire this
year.  She's 11 and it's her 3rd year as a card-carrying participant.
She's the one who took over the family dress-up box.  Her older sister
couldn't be bothered by all this costume stuff, so I take her to shop at
the retro fashion places in 'The Haight' instead.  Her 'period' is retro
60's-70's.

(The Haight is the 90's term for the Haight-Ashberry district in San
Francisco, made famous by the Hippies in the 60's.  These days it is mostly
cool little restaurants and cappuccino joints, several retro clothing
shops, a few little bookstores, some leftover "head shops", one
full-service Drag Queen outfitter, two really amazing cloth stores, and one
bead store.  My older kid and I spend all day there for her birthday every
year.)


Kayta
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: 3 or more colored brocades in Europe before 1600?
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 11:45:43 -0800 
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>

Julie said> One thing to be careful of is popularity and fashion in period,
and just
because it was possible, doesn't mean a particular pattern or color
combination was worn as clothing. By the pictoral evidence I have, I would
say that 3 or more colored brocades in Europe became much more popular
after 1600, though there seemed to be a brief fad in the late 15th c Italy.

For the most part, I agree w/ you.  However, I note that popularity and
price rather go hand in hand.  Not all evidence is pictographic.  Here's a
tasty citation from 1416 describing a 3 fibre brocade.

"Item for the fashioning and fabrics of a black satin pourpoint w/ grandes
assiettes to go with said houppelande (black brocaded with fine silver &
figured with green silk) made of three fine black and white fabrics, made of
silk II escuz.[T1] "  From accounts published in _Les Ducs de Bourgoyne_, L
de Laborde, no. 440;

I dont know what the abbreviation "escuz." is. Unit of money?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 14:55:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Kidstuff was (Authenticity Enforcers)
In-Reply-To: <l03130300b470abeb4b5a@[207.167.66.91]>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Sun, 5 Dec 1999, Julie Adams wrote:
> But still I often bring out other items which are not 100% period, like if
> we are at an SCA event over 3 days, I will bring out my plastic high chair
> for feeding times inside the pavilion, just because it contains the mess of
> my youngest who will otherwise scatter food everywhere...

(grin) But that's what dogs are for -- to eat all those scraps, and lick
baby's face clean afterwards!  Why else would our ancestors have kept lots
and lots of dogs underfoot (and under the table)?

Ok, I'll stop the silliness now...



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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: brocades, history, etcl
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 12:04:19 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>



> ----------
> From: 	Ron Carnegie[SMTP:rcarnegie@widomaker.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Sunday, December 05, 1999 6:13 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: brocades, history, etcl
> 
> 
> -Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>
> 
>         That is what people miss.  It is far more impressive that
> technology
> has given us machines that CAN do work priviously only done by hand.  I
> work
> for the museum mentioned in Maggie's quote, and we get questions doubting
> that something can be done or existed in the period all the time.  Rarely
> is
> it about anything that is even NEW in the 18th century.  (I was informed
> while locked in an original gaol cell last thursday that there was no
> METAL
> in the 18th century!  Not only were we well into the iron age, but the
> iron
> he mentioned dated from the period!!.
> 
My turn to fall off the chair!  What were all those Napoleanic cannons made
out of then, one wonders.  And y'know, swords?  

Give me strength.  That's up there with "Is that a real fire?"

MaggiRos
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Restoration London
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 12:29:18 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I meant to refer to the costume section particularly, of course :)  However,
any other observations will be valuable as well.

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	MAGGIE SECARA[SMTP:SECARAM@mainsaver.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, December 06, 1999 12:25 PM
> To: 	'H-Costume'
> Subject: 	H-COST: Restoration London
> 
> 
> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
> 
> My dears--
> 
> I suppose I should have asked BEFORE buying the book, but now that I have
> it
> I really must ask: Does anyone know anything/have an opinion about
> "Restoration London" by Liza Picard? 
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To: "'H-Costume'" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

My dears--

I suppose I should have asked BEFORE buying the book, but now that I have it
I really must ask: Does anyone know anything/have an opinion about
"Restoration London" by Liza Picard?  It's a book of little details sort of
like "What Jane Austen Ate, What Charles Dickens Knew" or whichever way it
goes, grouped by category and largely gleaned from Pepys' diaries.  Every
now and then I run across something I think sounds "off" but it's not my
period really, so I don't like to trust that first reaction alone.

Anyone?

Cheers!
	MaggiRos


> Mary Countess of Southampton (RPF ret.)
> Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend (Corona, CA)
> Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid) 
> and sometimes even 
> 	Maggie Secara
> 
http://ren.dm.net
(recommended ** by britannica.com)
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Whaddya mean, no pink? 8)

Check in the Duc de Berry's Books of Hours (any of them). You'll find a
beautiful pink being used as a clothing color.



					Arlys

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-Poster: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>

My then 2 year old son ONCE staunchly refused to change at an event.  He
WOULD NOT consider it on any terms.  Now, this kid had been better dressed
at events than the average peer form day one, so this was not a normal
thing.  So, considering that a happy kid in sweats was MUCH more appealing
than a well dressed unhappy kid, I left the matter.  This also avoided
future problems.
Well.  This kicked up a furor of epic porportions.  Folks were /purportedly/
talking about violations of corpora.  I was, naturally, very offended.
Turns out, no-one other than the individual who mentioned it to me had heard
anything about this.
My point is that we must do our best within reason, and anyone who objects
politely is /welcome/ to make my son a new wardrobe; ill mannered rudesbys
might be invited to bite a rude portion of my anatomy.  I am certainly
devoted to authenticity, but for myself.  I will happily give advice to any
who /ask/.  I consider it the height of bad manners to presume to criticize
unasked.  Besides, as Lady Tudor Glitz was told "telling people something
isn't period isn't period".
I really wish that people would get their heads out of dark brown places and
get lives.  

mm
(great milennial initials, non?)
 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 15:19:34 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 13:13:18 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

No one said there WAS no pink.  They said we couldn't WEAR pink.  

Actually, they said no pastels.  One group or another (military? maybe
others, not the Court) said don't wear pink.  This was a theatrical
decision, nothing more, like reserving purple for the queen, even tho the
queen at RPF North and South (California) hasn't worn purple in years.  The
audience percieves that anyone wearing purple is royalty, and they don't
want to confuse things. It's a theatrical decision they (the Faire) were not
required to defend, it being their show. I'm not sure what the ban on pink
(except when legitimately faded from red) was about; possibly just to
maintain the manly manliness of the soldiery.

On the other hand, I have a seal brown "Cranach" dress which skirt is
completely lined in a sort of salmon pink faille and no one ever cared.
Pity it no longer fits.

	MaggiRos



> ----------
> From: 	cynthia j ley[SMTP:cley@juno.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, December 06, 1999 1:06 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Cc: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Authenticity "Enforcers"
> 
> 
> -Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
> 
> Whaddya mean, no pink? 8)
> 
> Check in the Duc de Berry's Books of Hours (any of them). You'll find a
> beautiful pink being used as a clothing color.
> 
> 
> 
> 					Arlys
> 
> ___________________________________________________________________
> Why pay more to get Web access?
> Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
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Subject: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

Greetings all,
I just bought 3 bolts of plaid silk taffeta. Each has 12 to 15 yards on it. 
The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? 
because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean electric orange....and black and 
yellow on a white ground. Now I know they can be dipped to kill and change 
the colors to a more acceptable combination. My question is: what to use? I'm 
not a dyer but I use to be dye master for the local Shakespeare Festival 
years ago. All we ever used was Tintex or Rit. All that's available here is 
Rit or Dylon cold dye. In fact I just happen to have about 6 little packages 
of Dylon in "Moon Blue"...a  pale grey/blue. I thought I'd use it to tint a 
length of this orange plait silk. What do ya think? I can follow the 
directions and do enough for a dress. I thought I'd dip some other lengths in 
different tints...mint green or a purple-brown.

Is there another dye I could use to get good results on a 6 or 7 yard length. 
I only have a stove, hot plates, wash tubs, and a washing machine for 
equipment. Should I stick with cold water or just [as I have in the past] use 
hot water & Rit? Rit is fine for stage but I'd hate to make something, sell 
it and then have it fade!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 15:28:08 1999
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

I guess I'm lucky. My daughter, who changes clothing three or four times a
day loves her SCA garb. Frankly I can't get her out of it. I've had to
close my eyes and just take her places because I didn't have time for the
battle of changing into modern clothes. I have fun using her for a barbie
to try out new designs. At first I couldn't get head dresses on her but
lately she's begun showing real interest in wearing mine so I'm planning on
making her several things like padded rolls and such that can be taken off
easily, adjusted and then primped in front of a mirror by an extremely
independent high functioning autistic child.

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu



On Mon, 6 Dec 1999 AlbertCat@AOL.COM wrote:
> The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? 
> because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean electric orange....and black and 
> yellow on a white ground.

	Why dye it? From your description it sounds absolutely perfect for
mid-19th century clothing.  If you don't think you can face looking at the
fabric long enough to make something out of it, you could easily sell the
fabric to people who do that period.  

-Katie

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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

Not only was there pink, the Elizabethans had a number of descriptive
names for it. There's carnation, incarnate, 'devil in the hedge', peach
flower, soppes-in-wine, maiden's blush, Catherine pear, gingerline, and
my personal favorite-lusty gallant!
A snark might argue that paints and pigments have faded thru time ( not
necessarily true) but if they called something 'maiden's blush' I think
that a definite pink tone is being described!

Karen

On Mon, 06 Dec 1999 16:06:57 EST cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com> writes:
> 
> -Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
> 
> Whaddya mean, no pink? 8)
> 
> Check in the Duc de Berry's Books of Hours (any of them). You'll 
> find a
> beautiful pink being used as a clothing color.
> 
> 
> 
> 					Arlys  
> ___________________________________________________________________ 
> Why pay more to get Web access? Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 17:57:13 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 19:13:30 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

You probably risk harming the crisp finish of the silk, especially if you use 
hot water.  The moon blue might give you an all-over muted look, but it 
depends on how bright that orange is.  The mint green sounds to me like it 
would give you an all-over muddy look.  I opt for not dyeing it, either.

By the way, are you sure it's silk?  It could be acetate, in which case all 
the caveats of dyeing still apply.

Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 18:00:31 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: A dying silk question
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 15:43:55 -0800 
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

I have to agree with Kathleen.  It sounds just lovely at it is.  And I would
be more than will to take a bolt off your hands.

Stephen Bergdahl - madly@2xtreme.net

-----Original Message-----
From: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu [mailto:KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu]
Sent: Monday, December 06, 1999 2:39 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question



-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu



On Mon, 6 Dec 1999 AlbertCat@AOL.COM wrote:
> The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? 
> because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean electric orange....and black and 
> yellow on a white ground.

	Why dye it? From your description it sounds absolutely perfect for
mid-19th century clothing.  If you don't think you can face looking at the
fabric long enough to make something out of it, you could easily sell the
fabric to people who do that period.  

-Katie

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 18:12:14 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 18:30:06 -0600
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

Well, my two youngest sons (13 & 8) have been wearing great kilts for 2
years now. Even though they get sorta "messed up" just by being boys, they
still love to put them on. We've gotten real good at it and they stay
pretty secure for most of the day now. I'm sure they're not authentic, but
you can't beat the extra large safety pins (of-course, we put them where
they can't be seen). 

Amanda


----------
> From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
> Date: Monday, December 06, 1999 1:25 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
> 
> >Most of the parents I've talked to who's kids aren't dressed (most of
> >them aren't making *any* kind of attempt) say "well, kids won't wear
> >this kind of stuff"... usually while my kids in garb (her in chemise &
> >irish, him in t-tunic & tights or tight sweatpants or nothing depending
> >on the season) are standing right beside me.
> 
> My younger kid bugged me for a new dress for half the run of Faire this
> year.  She's 11 and it's her 3rd year as a card-carrying participant.
> She's the one who took over the family dress-up box.  Her older sister
> couldn't be bothered by all this costume stuff, so I take her to shop at
> the retro fashion places in 'The Haight' instead.  Her 'period' is retro
> 60's-70's.
> 
> (The Haight is the 90's term for the Haight-Ashberry district in San
> Francisco, made famous by the Hippies in the 60's.  These days it is
mostly
> cool little restaurants and cappuccino joints, several retro clothing
> shops, a few little bookstores, some leftover "head shops", one
> full-service Drag Queen outfitter, two really amazing cloth stores, and
one
> bead store.  My older kid and I spend all day there for her birthday
every
> year.)
> 
> 
> Kayta
>      ////.\\\
>     ////-@@\\\
>    ((((   7 (((
>      |   -- ))))
>      * )   (((((
>   /----\   /---\
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 19:11:27 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Slow out there or is something wrong?
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:04:52 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> I am not over informed about holidays in the colonies though . I was led
to
> believe that the Oztraleans had Christmas in the Summer , however a
friend
> visitted last June and saw no signs whatsoever.

Yes, we do it in summer and a wonderful time is had with all that cooked
meat, cooked vegetables, cooked puddings and heavy fruit cakes followed
with hot custard dishes, and all the other trimmings you may expect at
Christmas - and all this in 100 degrees Farenhiet. Hmmm!

Oh, there is one concession to the weather, cards featuring Father
Christmas in his red hat and board shorts out surfing.

> The quietness from the UK is due to the national baited breath of despair
as
> it seems that our Queen Mother is likely to reach 100 long before any of
our
> batsmen.

Hell, the Queen Mother will hit the double century before the batsmen make
100.

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 19:12:56 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: bees
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:14:07 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> << 300 gold bees on the Merovignian coronation robe  >>
> 
> Could you please be so kind as to post the reference for this
information?  I 
> would appreciate it very much.  Thanks.

Will do (as soon as I can damned well find it in my mess of books!).

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 19:15:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 20:15:24 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

I like my Elna 9000.  It's a lot less money than the Bernina and other top 
end brands, but does the same stuff.  It feels more delicate than my old 40's 
vintage Singer, but I like the ease with which I can do so many stitches, 
buttonholes, darning, overlock, embroidery.  Feature for feature comparison 
with Bernina, it does the same, for about 40 less cost, when I purchased it 
about 4 years ago.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 19:37:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 20:50:02 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: (no subject)
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Please do make a matching Elizabethan for her doll!  

When my niece, age 5, asked me for a Barbie many years ago, I threw away the 
store-bought clothes and created a decent wardrobe for her -- business suit, 
sportwear skirts, slacks, and tops, a pretty evening gown, a bridal dress 
made out of an old silk blouse--so she didn't look like a hooker.  Pardon me, 
but 16 years ago, it was inconceivable to me that parents would buy her for 
their girls.  I loved the role of  indulgent aunt, but was only willing to go 
so far!  The whole wardrobe, including the little wire hangers I made, is 
still intact, quite the complement.

Old fuddy duddy here . . .  .

Hope
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 19:08:34 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
In-Reply-To: <199912070026.SAA19342@anarchy.io.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 06:30 PM 12/06/1999 -0600, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
>
>Well, my two youngest sons (13 & 8) have been wearing great kilts for 2
>years now. Even though they get sorta "messed up" just by being boys, they
>still love to put them on. We've gotten real good at it and they stay
>pretty secure for most of the day now. I'm sure they're not authentic, but
>you can't beat the extra large safety pins (of-course, we put them where
>they can't be seen). 
>
>Amanda
>
            But 'safety pins', or pins similar, have been in use since
Roman times, at the least...Carol, remembering that from my Latin class days...
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 20:55:31 1999
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From: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <2.2.16.19991204145823.4157b7ea@mail2.quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Q E's Wardrobe Unlock'd
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 21:12:48 -0600
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-Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>

How did you ever get it ordered ?  All I have ever been able to get from
them is that it is not in their catelog yet they do give a price and state
that it is a special order.  Is there some secret to doing their special
orders ?
Diane
----- Original Message -----
From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 1999 4:58 PM
Subject: H-COST: Q E's Wardrobe Unlock'd


>
> -Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
>
> Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd *is* available through Amazon.co.uk!!
My
> copy is in the mail... I ordered it on 30 Oct and it was shipped on 26 Nov
> (the day my credit card was charged) via Royal Mail. Price, with air mail
> shipping from the UK, was GBP79.95, which translated to US$129.81, a
bargain
> in my book. Now all I need to do is wait until it arrives...
>
> Joan Jurancich
> Sacramento, CA
> joanj@quiknet.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 21:48:43 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 05:08:17 +0100
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>


Congratulations on the book!

> I suppose I should have asked BEFORE buying the book, but now that I have it
> I really must ask: Does anyone know anything/have an opinion about
> "Restoration London" by Liza Picard?

It is just absolutely fantastic!!! One of the ever best books I have 
seen so far on the late 17th century, admittedly, the 1660s. 
Wonderful, lovely, my bible. Picard isn't a historian, but a lawyer, 
and thus all the wonderful 'evidence' is there. Everyday life from 
brushing one's teeth to monthly hygiene over clothes to statsitics and 
god knows what else.

  It's a book of little details sort of
> like "What Jane Austen Ate, What Charles Dickens Knew" or whichever way it
> goes, grouped by category and largely gleaned from Pepys' diaries.  Every

and of course John Evelyn as well, and Hutchinson.

> now and then I run across something I think sounds "off" but it's not my
> period really, so I don't like to trust that first reaction alone.

Do trust this book. *nods* What might sound "off" to you is not off, 
but the truth. I have a very large and tall bookshelf from the floor to 
the ceiling with almost exclusively books on the late 17th century 
Baroque period, I live and breathe for the French and English 
Baroque ;-), and Picard has researched her book extremely well. 
Plus she almost always gives the source for her facts, which means 
no arguing with her, because it was written down by 
contemporaries. *S* It's my period, really, and I highly recommend 
the book to everyone interested in the period. Around 8 pounds 
sterling.
Nicole

************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 21:48:37 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 05:07:31 +0100
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>


> > Could you please be so kind as to post the reference for this
> information?  I 
> > would appreciate it very much.  Thanks.

I don't know about 'coronation robes' but in King Childerich's grave 
(died 481), which was a huge grave arrangement, with hill and 
everything and horse graves arranged around his grave chamber, 
there were found these gold bees. The grave was opened in the 18th 
century, and unfortunately most of the gold artefacts (there were 
innumerable ones) were stolen from the archaeologists and molten 
down. Thus only (fortunately very detailed and accurate) coloured 
engravings of all the finds remain. The bees must have been 
beautiful. But Childerich was dressed in late Roman-Germanic dress 
and weapons, a combination.
An extensive discussion of the grave and the finds, as well as the 
18th century engravings of the bees can be found in the two volume 
German exhibition catalogue 'the Franks' from a touring large 
exhibition in the 90s.

Nicole  

************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 22:41:00 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 00:00:35 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I have to agree with Kathleen.  It sounds just lovely at it is.  And I would
>be more than will to take a bolt off your hands.

Orange is my favorite colour!  I would buy a bolt from you!.

Cheers,
Danielle
dnunn@interlog.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 22:43:26 1999
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From: "Laurie L. Kittle" <gunstonian@mindspring.com>
Subject: H-COST: Nails -- An Urban Legend
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-Poster: "Laurie L. Kittle" <gunstonian@mindspring.com>

At 10:25 AM 12/6/99 +0000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>
>>>>   Someone
>told one of the Docents that the wood floor was "wrong" because they had
>used nails.  After a few minutes of conversion it became clear that there
>was no getting through to this guy that nails are period for most of
>history.  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
>They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
>it.
><<<
>An American friend  now resident in the UK claims to have made a similar
retort to a fellow-visitor to (I think) an American Civil War battlefield,
who asserted that nails were not available then.

I heard this one, too. Except it was an interpreter at Valley Forge Historical
Park and he got fired for this response to an incredulous tourist.

Laurie Kittle
Alexandria, VA

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 22:43:27 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Pink
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 22:12:31 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

When I first started playing with the SCA I was told "No Pink!.  So this
isn't just coming from a Ren Faire angle.  Or maybe it is and it has
filtered into the SCA.

And I have a personal theory.  No historical precedent, no documentation,
just my own fevered imagination.  

One summer night about 9:00 PM, I was driving back to Boise from an event
in Jerome, Idaho.  That means I would be traveling west into the sunset. 
As I am driving along, the sun is just slipping out from below the clouds
of a small thunderstorm to behind the horizon, off to the left is a curtain
of rain, with lightning striking in the center.  The curtain of rain is
neon/dayglow pink, the clouds are white, black and the sky behind them is
every shade of vibrant pink and orange that one could imagine.  

Right then and there I decided, that if a color occurred in nature, then
man would try and reproduce it.  And there it was, no doubt about it,
neon/dayglow pink and orange.  So, unless it is a color not found in
nature, (I can't think of any myself)  I will always be skeptical when
someone tells me that a color isn't period.  Admittedly the color may not
be appropriate for certain times and places, but that doesn't mean it
didn't exist.  Because I am sure that somewhere, sometime in the past,
others saw the same colors I did and admired them enough to recreate them.

Kathlene

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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 21:21:57 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Marquis de Kipar wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
> 
> Congratulations on the book!
> 
> > I suppose I should have asked BEFORE buying the book, but now that I have it
> > I really must ask: Does anyone know anything/have an opinion about
> > "Restoration London" by Liza Picard?
> 
> It is just absolutely fantastic!!! One of the ever best books I have
> seen so far on the late 17th century, admittedly, the 1660s.

I agree.  I'd read a review of it in the LA times about 2 years ago but
couldn't get the book here in the states, so when I went to England last
year in May, I bought it there and read it in the week we were on a tour
of north England and Scotland.  I thought it was terrific.

> Wonderful, lovely, my bible. Picard isn't a historian, but a lawyer,
> and thus all the wonderful 'evidence' is there. Everyday life from
> brushing one's teeth to monthly hygiene over clothes to statsitics and
> god knows what else.
> 
>   It's a book of little details sort of
> > like "What Jane Austen Ate, What Charles Dickens Knew" or whichever way it
> > goes, grouped by category and largely gleaned from Pepys' diaries.  Every

True, but what's the objection?  Pepys *did* live in the period - if he
doesn't know what he's talking about who does?  And Picard's research
was all based on original sources from what I understand from the review
I read.  Hardly any of it, if any, was based on secondary accounts.

It was a fascinating read.

Carolyn
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: "Merouda" <keltia@serv.net>, "Steps" <steps@antir.sca.org>,
        "The Reeds" <aquaterra-list@eskimo.com>,
        "Mistress Isolde" <isoldex@yahoo.com>,
        "Julian and Arianne" <jerand@gte.net>,
        "Laurellen" <ruffbugg@nwlink.com>,
        "Andrew and Fiamma" <ABertino@aol.com>, <fiammetta@aol.com>,
        "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Ursalmas Fashion Show
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 21:29:46 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BF4031.04BAF640
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Greetings one and all!

The Aquaterra Costumers Guild invites one and all to display their =
wonderful clothing in the Known World Fashion Show that will be occuring =
during Ursalmas.

For those not in the in the SCA, Ursalmas is an annual event that occurs =
indoors at the Everegreen Fairgrounds, in Monroe Washington during the =
last weekend (Friday - Sunday) of January, which is the 28th, 29th, =
30th.  (The Barony of Aquaterra in in the Kingdom of An Tir, for those =
in other Kingdoms)

The Known World Fashion Show is open to any and all people to wear and =
show their garb (within the SCA timeframe of 600 - 1650 *50 years either =
way - depending on who you talk to*)  but do not like to do =
competitions.  This is just for fun! =20

The link below provides the web site for the event and the form to =
complete online (or print out and snail mail to me).

http://www.aquaterra.antir.sca.org/ursulmas/index.html

Please come and enjoy the festivities!  I have been commissioned by the =
Aquaterra Guildmistress, HL Fiamma the Unquenchable, to bring my =
costuming library (small one *ha*) for consultation.  If you, or someone =
you know, wants to do some research, please let me know and I'll see if =
I can either find or bring a book to assist.  I will be sitting at the =
Consulting table most (and Merouda some of the time) of the event, and =
hope to meet many of the wonderful people I have "met" online! =20

Please feel free to forward this information to anyone who would be =
interested or any list that would be appropriate.

Gia/Giacinta
costuming nut


------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BF4031.04BAF640
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Greetings one and all!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The Aquaterra Costumers Guild invites one and all to display their=20
wonderful clothing in the Known World Fashion Show that will be occuring =
during=20
Ursalmas.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>For those not in the in the SCA, Ursalmas is an annual event that =
occurs=20
indoors at the Everegreen Fairgrounds, in Monroe Washington during the =
last=20
weekend (Friday - Sunday) of January, which is the 28th, 29th, =
30th.&nbsp; (The=20
Barony of Aquaterra in in the Kingdom of An Tir, for those in other=20
Kingdoms)</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The Known World Fashion Show is open to any and all people to wear =
and show=20
their garb (within the SCA timeframe of 600 - 1650 *50 years either way =
-=20
depending on who you talk to*)&nbsp; but do not like to do =
competitions.&nbsp;=20
This is just for fun!&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The link below provides the web site for the event and the form to =
complete=20
online (or print out and snail mail to me).</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><A=20
href=3D"http://www.aquaterra.antir.sca.org/ursulmas/index.html">http://ww=
w.aquaterra.antir.sca.org/ursulmas/index.html</A></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Please come and enjoy the festivities!&nbsp; =
I have=20
been commissioned by the Aquaterra Guildmistress, HL Fiamma the =
Unquenchable, to=20
bring my costuming library (small one *ha*) for consultation.&nbsp; If =
you, or=20
someone you know, wants to do some research, please let me know and I'll =
see if=20
I can either find or bring a book to assist.&nbsp; I will be sitting at =
the=20
Consulting table most (and Merouda some of the time) of the event, and =
hope to=20
meet many of the wonderful people I have &quot;met&quot; online!&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Please feel free to forward this information =
to anyone=20
who would be interested or any list that would be =
appropriate.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV>
<DIV>costuming nut</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BF4031.04BAF640--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 23:18:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 00:34:56 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: bees
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< > << 300 gold bees on the Merovignian coronation robe  >>
 > 
 > Could you please be so kind as to post the reference for this
 information?  I 
 > would appreciate it very much.  Thanks.
 
<< Will do (as soon as I can damned well find it in my mess of books!). >>

Chris, you mentioned that you thought there was a Merovingian statue in 
Boucher that showed this.  However, I've just been through Boucher twice and 
couldn't find it.  I'll look forward to being pointed in the right direction, 
when you have time, of course.  Thanks.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 23:20:43 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 00:39:04 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Thanks for all the info, Nicole.  Do you happen to have the full citation for 
this 2-volume exhibition catalogue?  Sometimes interlibrary loan can surprise 
me!  Thanks.

<< An extensive discussion of the grave and the finds, as well as the 
 18th century engravings of the bees can be found in the two volume 
 German exhibition catalogue 'the Franks' from a touring large 
 exhibition in the 90s.
  >>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 23:22:22 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 21:40:42 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kim Baird wrote:
> 
> Some comments on the sewing machine dilemma, from one who has owned 8
> different machines, and 3 sergers:
> 
> Don't buy any Singer that is not black cast iron

I think I'd qualify that - don't buy any Singer machine made before
1965.  A lot of the 40s, 50s and 60s models came in green, pink, or tan
(featherweights came in all 3 I think, as well as white).

And I doubt the featherweight reproduction scheduled for the end of the
year will be worth the money.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec  6 23:56:11 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Kidstuff was (Authenticity Enforcers)
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
>
>Greetings,
>
>Julie wrote:
>
>> We also made a wooden portable fence that is set up as a "play yard"
>> that looks pretty good (and I have references for similar devices
>> for most periods.)
>
>Well, they used to have a fence until a recent night with a new moon when
>someone leaving their camp around midnight tripped and fell right through
>it...Sorry Julie. :-(
>
>Dietmar

Hey, you only took out one panel! I was meaning to ask if you were
ok...especially since you hadn't posted much.  There were some big
splinters there...  Well, at least bloody costumes would still be period...

Julie


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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
>
>Whaddya mean, no pink? 8)
>
>Check in the Duc de Berry's Books of Hours (any of them). You'll find a
>beautiful pink being used as a clothing color.
>
Somewhere back in the Mists of Time, the Living History Centre (California
Renn Faires) decided no pastels based on theatrical? reasons. It eventually
was translated to "pink is not period" by the masses. Since then the myth
has propagated that pink is not period. I've heard this from SCA folks and
others ad nauseum. Its pretty obvious that pink is period, especially when
I seen both pink and red clothing in the same painting... and I LOVE the
pink and white landknechts... not that I could ever convince my hubby to
wear them..

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 00:02:45 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 07:21:31 +0100
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>


> Thanks for all the info, Nicole.  Do you happen to have the full citation for 
> this 2-volume exhibition catalogue?  Sometimes interlibrary loan can surprise 
> me!  Thanks.

*groans* i just had a quick look at the copies...
i didn't copy the title page obviously *thwaps herself* but my 
boyfriend has the books (yes i know, it's funny, he's english, has 
those books, i'm german, can read them but don't have them *L*) 
he's on this list so hopefully he'll read this post.
anyway, the title was "Wegbereiter Europas. Die Franken" but I 
can't remember more... I  have to check if I can find the reference..
ah! i just found it at amazon.de *S*
http://www.amazon.de/exec/obidos/ASIN/3805318138/qid=94454737
9/sr=1-33/028-3012395-4071410
"Die Franken. Wegbereiter Europas. Vor 1500 Jahren: König 
Chlodwig und seine Erben."  (1996) Mainz: v. Zabern.  ISBN: 
3805318138
165 DM (I have no idea if you can get them at amazon.com, nor 
how much it is, just in case you can't get them via inter libarary loan)
I cross my fingers!
Nicole
************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 00:03:44 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 01:22:43 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/07/1999 12:01:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
dnunn@interlog.com writes:

<< Orange is my favorite colour!  I would buy a bolt from you!.
  >>
E-mail me. but.....don't expect $10 a bolt!
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Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/06/1999 7:22:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us writes:

<< 
 I have to agree with Kathleen.  It sounds just lovely at it is.  And I would
 be more than will to take a bolt off your hands.
  >>

No no no...it screams Halloween. Did I mention it has black too? There is 
enough yellow & white in it to turn it a brown, green & pale blue plaid. Mint 
would turn it and different brown, different green and mint plaid. A brown 
will yield a plaid of rich browns. I plan to do samples before dunking the 
entire bolt. It is silk.
I have, for Interview with the Vampire, dyed in hot water & tan Rit a piece 
of the same stuff in red white & blue, which tuned out very nice but not as 
stiff as before dying. Some spray starch and an industrial iron made it look 
very nice. That's why I want to try cold water. Loosing some body is worth 
toning down the color to me.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 00:27:14 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 01:51:42 -0600 (EST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: Historic Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: New book
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


I don't read Italian, but someone out there may be interested in this new
book:

Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli, Guardaroba medievale:  vesti e societa dal
13. al 16. secolo (Bologna:  Il mulino, 1999).

I know nothing about this other than the rather promising title. (I have a
librarian friend who lets me know about any medieval costume publications
he happens to spot.) 

--Robin

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 00:41:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 01:58:28 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Baby Doll Dresses (and skimmers/sizzlers)
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

Dear Emma - skimmers came in a number of designs.  The one I had (which I 
remember so vividly because my parents were LIVID that I made it and I still 
have  the tacky commemorative photograph of wearing it without permission at 
school) had a v neck, tiny half circle slightly gathered cap sleeves and 
princess lines.  The princess lines flared deeply at the hip and just beyond 
(it only went just beyond).  The bottoms were cut like slightly over large 
undies and showed whenever you moved.  I made it out of a slinky synthetic 
knit.  


Pamela D.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 01:28:10 1999
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From: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912070502.WAA13263@net.indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: "Michelle" <mandrake@mypad.com>

> As I am driving along, the sun is just slipping out from below the clouds
> of a small thunderstorm to behind the horizon, off to the left is a
curtain
> of rain, with lightning striking in the center.  The curtain of rain is
> neon/dayglow pink, the clouds are white, black and the sky behind them is
> every shade of vibrant pink and orange that one could imagine.
  Wow. That sounds beautiful!

>
> Right then and there I decided, that if a color occurred in nature, then
> man would try and reproduce it.  And there it was, no doubt about it,
> neon/dayglow pink and orange.  So, unless it is a color not found in
> nature, (I can't think of any myself)  I will always be skeptical when
> someone tells me that a color isn't period.
   I agree.  When I first started participating in Renaissance Faires, I was
told that the rule of thumb was -- if you can figure out how to get a color
with nature, then you can use it. The point is, if you research and can find
plants, bark, berries, etc. to get a certain color, chances are high that
they did too.

Michelle



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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Moths in UK
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Dave

> - -Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>
>  Is it Nuvan-Tops ? comes in two very expensive cans one for the
> house and one for cats dogs etc. 

No.  I can't remember the name but it was one word.  As I recall it 
sounded vaguely "dynamic"... if that makes any sense.

The strange thing is that another friend (a vet) told me later that the 
stuff *doesn't* work on moth or carpet beetle, other than killing off 
the existing ones (and anything else that breathes in too much of 
it).  All I can say is that it worked on the ones we had - killed the 
existing ones and stopped the young ones from developing.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  H-COST: A dying silk question
In-reply-to: <199912062139.OAA02658@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

 
> - -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> Greetings all,
> I just bought 3 bolts of plaid silk taffeta. Each has 12 to 15
> yards on it. The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a
> bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean
> electric orange....and black and yellow on a white ground. 

Wow!  that sounds like *my* sort of fabric!



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 10:11:38 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Pink!
In-reply-to: <199912062139.OAA02658@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

 
> - -Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>
> 
> Whaddya mean, no pink? 8)
> 
> Check in the Duc de Berry's Books of Hours (any of them). You'll find
> a beautiful pink being used as a clothing color.
>
>      Arlys

Personally, I'd question the use of the word "beautiful" to describe 
pink....<g>  

but then, unless it's a really *vivid* pink (used for effect!), I'm bound 
to hate it.  Pink has one  *slight* saving grace - it's marginally nicer 
than grey (which isn't saying much)





 


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 10:23:07 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re:  H-COST: A dying silk question
In-reply-to: <199912070459.VAA12279@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>



> >I have to agree with Kathleen.  It sounds just lovely at it is.  And
> >I would be more than will to take a bolt off your hands.
> 
> Orange is my favorite colour!  I would buy a bolt from you!.
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle

I might have known Danielle would jump in here!

Hi Danielle!

I just tried out a new shade of orange dye - managed to get cheap 
cotton lining dyed *just* the right colour to line a gown of the 
*softest* orange velvet I've ever handled - unfortunately, it's not for 
me!


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 05:36:29 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 11:58:01 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Admittedly the color may not
>be appropriate for certain times and places, but that doesn't mean it
>didn't exist.  Because I am sure that somewhere, sometime in the past,
>others saw the same colors I did and admired them enough to recreate them.

How about 'admired them enough to try to recreate them'?  I will take the
word of a dyer on the possibility/probability of those colours, but I won't
believe neon colours are possible with natural dyestuff till then.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 05:36:30 1999
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

I used to own a book of Hungarian art, one photo in which showed a
'spangled' garment from before 1400 (I think).  Anyway, said garment had
lots of little flat metal bits sewn onto it, many in recognizable shapes.
It looked a lot like a charm bracelet, but the bits were gold.  I would
believe it if I were told all these bees were sew-ons from a garment.  I
would also believe washer-like things which were nailed onto something
solid, like a saddle frame.

>I don't know about 'coronation robes' but in King Childerich's grave 
>(died 481), which was a huge grave arrangement, with hill and 
>everything and horse graves arranged around his grave chamber, 
>there were found these gold bees. The grave was opened in the 18th 
>century, and unfortunately most of the gold artefacts (there were 
>innumerable ones) were stolen from the archaeologists and molten 
>down. Thus only (fortunately very detailed and accurate) coloured 
>engravings of all the finds remain. The bees must have been 
>beautiful. But Childerich was dressed in late Roman-Germanic dress 
>and weapons, a combination.
>An extensive discussion of the grave and the finds, as well as the 
>18th century engravings of the bees can be found in the two volume 
>German exhibition catalogue 'the Franks' from a touring large 
>exhibition in the 90s.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 05:47:57 1999
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From: "TC Carstensen" <eccentri@sprynet.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3.0.1.32.19991207000035.0094f7c0@mail.interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: Orange Cloth (Was: A dying silk question)
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 07:09:33 -0500
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-Poster: "TC Carstensen" <eccentri@sprynet.com>

Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> Orange is my favorite colour!

Oh, then you need to check out the pumpkin colored unsheared corduroy that
Phoenix Textiles has for sale for $3 a yard.   I already bought some in
another color and was so delighted with it  that I couldn't resist placing
another order for the pumpkin, too.   It is the softest stuff!

http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/uncor2.html

BTW, orders for $30 or more through Wednesday Dec. 9 get  free shipping,
just in case you weren't tempted enough to order from them already.  I love
Phoenix Textiles.  I always get such great deals from them.


TC Carstensen, no affiliation, just a very satisfied customer  :)


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 07:12:56 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 08:30:41 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: carnation
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I love all those color names too, but they can be misleading. Carnation was, 
I believe, a sort of dried blood color, not a pink. Boy, I wish the Color 
Marketing Group and the other so-called color "forecasters" would make up 
names like that today!

Gail Finke

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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

My database tells me that this book IS now available in the US (St Martin's Press, ISBN 0312186592)

I haven't seen it myself, but it definitely sounds like one to look out for!

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> 
> How about 'admired them enough to try to recreate them'?  I will take
> the word of a dyer on the possibility/probability of those colours,
> but I won't believe neon colours are possible with natural dyestuff
> till then.

I haven't done natural dying since Girl Scout camp but I seem to recall
making something that came out pretty neon... and the ancient Bruce
tartan *screams* with neon orange & green.

Kat
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #831, Kid's SCA clothing
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

"Marsha S. McLean" wrote:
> 
<snip>
> My point is that we must do our best within reason, and anyone who
> objects politely is /welcome/ to make my son a new wardrobe; ill
> mannered rudesbys might be invited to bite a rude portion of my
> anatomy.  I am certainly devoted to authenticity, but for myself.  I
> will happily give advice to any who /ask/.  I consider it the height
> of bad manners to presume to criticize unasked.  Besides, as Lady
> Tudor Glitz was told "telling people something isn't period isn't
> period".<snip>

I agree... while it may really jar me to see children in mundanes... I
would NEVER tell the parents or child that it was bad... I do sometimes
ask why as nicely as I can because there have been times when I've run
across someone who wasn't wearing something because their only piece of
garb had been damaged or the child's garb wasn't finished etc. and I've
been able to provide/find something suitable.  Certainly if a parent
says to me that they've tried and can't get the child to wear garb...
while I might make suggestions on how to change this I will sympathize
and think nothing bad about them... it's the ones who just blithely say,
"oh, well, he's just a kid... they *won't* wear garb" without having
even bothered to try that annoy me... and even then I'll just nod
sagaciously and go on my way.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 08:23:20 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

When a batch of natural dyestuffs failed to arrive for a local class I was 
teaching--we played with the herbs in my garden and the spices in my rack. 
When the contents of my spice rack produced a most wonderous shade of neon 
fuschia pink , I too, was convinced that earlier folks must have enjoyed it, 
too!! 
cheers,
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 08:26:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 08:44:25 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

Don't you mean AFTER 1965?

At 09:40 PM 12/06/1999 -0800, you wrote:

>-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>
>I think I'd qualify that - don't buy any Singer machine made before
>1965.  A lot of the 40s, 50s and 60s models came in green, pink, or tan
>(featherweights came in all 3 I think, as well as white).

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 08:52:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 10:11:27 -0500 (EST)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

About a year ago, someone on the list posted a message regarding the
corset worn by Queen Elizabeth's effigy--apparantly, Arnold had examinied
it and pronounced it contemporary with QE's death.

Does anyone have a copy of this message, or can the original poster
contact me?  I made a replica of this corset based on the photo in the
Westminster Effigies book, but am now trying to document it as an early 
17th century item, and can't find any info on it.

Many thanks,

Drea

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Nails -- An Urban Legend
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> >>>>   Someone
> >told one of the Docents that the wood floor was "wrong" because they had
> >used nails.  After a few minutes of conversion it became clear that there
> >was no getting through to this guy that nails are period for most of
> >history.  She just looked him in the eye, and told him, "Your right sir.
> >They screwed Jesus to the cross!"  It still makes me laugh to thing about
> >it.
> ><<<
> >An American friend  now resident in the UK claims to have made a similar
> retort to a fellow-visitor to (I think) an American Civil War battlefield,
> who asserted that nails were not available then.
> 
> I heard this one, too. Except it was an interpreter at Valley Forge Historical
> Park and he got fired for this response to an incredulous tourist.

Perhaps people are getting confused about joining items. In many 
periods of history nails were used only for rough work. They are a 
rather labor intensive item as they need to be drawn and forged. 
Screws were definitely not used. However, wooden pegs were used for 
finer work like nice boxes and floors. Joints (like dovetail joints) 
were often used as well. Nails have their place but many floors 
especially were pegged together with doweling. Doweling is 
comparatively fast to make and holds well because it will generally 
swell just slightly after being put in (where nails progressively 
work looser with time.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> When a batch of natural dyestuffs failed to arrive for a local class I was 
> teaching--we played with the herbs in my garden and the spices in my rack. 
> When the contents of my spice rack produced a most wonderous shade of neon 
> fuschia pink , I too, was convinced that earlier folks must have enjoyed it, 
> too!! 

Folks may have enjoyed it at times. However, it was not as popular 
amongst the people who bought cloth as one might think. Yes, they did 
have it (and peach) but it is our *modern* aesthetics which says they 
would like it if we do. They had different attitudes about this.

That's why the old saw "if they could have had it they would have 
used it" doesn't work when studying history. There are a lot of 
things they could have done and didn't because they didn't like it. 
It wasn't their style. Pink is one of those things which could be 
done and was done some, but wasn't as popular as it is now.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 09:32:05 1999
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From: Linda Thompson <lthompsn@sound.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Sewing machines and buying
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-Poster: Linda Thompson <lthompsn@sound.net>

Just in case you haven't gotten enough replies, here are my machines.

I have an Elna from the early 80's ($400.00)- It clothed my children and
has been a work horse with very little maintenance.(no plastic interior
parts)
A Singer "Jeans Machine" from the 90's ($200.00 range)- It works well
but its stitch speed could be faster, and I have continual trouble with
the thread not seating properly when threaded (have to constantly make
sure it is snug in the thread tension wheel) And I am tking it too the
repair person to frequently.
A Viking 1000 from the 93/4 ($1200.00 range)- My main machine right now,
has been put through extensive abuse doing Ren clothes for 6 years now,
no real maintenance.  
A Singer Industrial Needle Feed from the 60's (used $500.00)- FAST, fast
fast... straight stitch only, and sounds like a jet plane when you start
it up.  Use this for long runs of straight seams.  Love it for
velvet/satin
A Babylock Serger from 94 ($800.00 range)- Has always performed well,
although it needs to be adjusted for each fabric change.
A Singer "Featherweight" from 1929 (Swapped costume for this machine)-
Incredible straight stitch, it goes forward and backwards, used for
incredibly sheer fabric such as silk gauze and for topstitching, the
feed dog plate has only a small hole about the size of a "pencil lead"
so sheer fabrics do not get pulled into the feed dog area. Been told it
is a favorite of quilters.

Remember one thing... When you do go to buy a machine, take your own bag
of scraps to sew on.  Make sure you take fabric that you frequently
sew.  Brocades, denims, velvets.. All react quite differently than those
small scraps of cottons and polyester they usually use at the demo
table.
The main feature you should consider looking for is a walking foot
machine, or one that has a walking foot option.  Or if you can find it,
a needle feed machine.  (Needle moves with the fabric as it sews)...
With either of these you will not have near the problem with the lower
fabric creeping through faster than the upper fabric.  And of course any
of the other bells and whistles..

Me.. I am looking for an embroidery machine that does not cost a fortune
and lets me use my own designs.  I have no desire or need to get a
mchine that offers a 1000 designs some one else did.  So why should I
have to pay for them.  Anyone have any suggestions?
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Nicole, thanks so very much for the citation.  I'll put in an ILL request 
today.
Nancy
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From: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.122f1691.257e012c@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 09:36:28 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> No no no...it screams Halloween. Did I mention it has black too? There is
> enough yellow & white in it to turn it a brown, green & pale blue plaid.
Mint
> would turn it and different brown, different green and mint plaid. A brown
> will yield a plaid of rich browns. I plan to do samples before dunking the
> entire bolt. It is silk.

If you wouldn't mind posting them somewhere, I'd like to see the before and
afters of your samples.

Thanks,
Heather

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 10:53:14 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:08:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: tshirt t-tunics
In-Reply-To: <v03110702b471df8477ee@[166.70.12.200]>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

When I was a kid, all I wanted to wear were long dresses... this was the
early 70s, and mom had to make them all by hand.  Well, two dresses,
total, I think, but she couldn't get me to wear anything else.  I still
love floor-length skirts.  And we weren't even cognizant of the SCA... I
think I just imprinted on the long gowns in the fairy-tale books!

Mara


On Mon, 6 Dec 1999, Karalee Larsen Pugmire wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
> 
> I guess I'm lucky. My daughter, who changes clothing three or four times a
> day loves her SCA garb. Frankly I can't get her out of it. I've had to
> close my eyes and just take her places because I didn't have time for the
> battle of changing into modern clothes. I have fun using her for a barbie
> to try out new designs. At first I couldn't get head dresses on her but
> lately she's begun showing real interest in wearing mine so I'm planning on
> making her several things like padded rolls and such that can be taken off
> easily, adjusted and then primped in front of a mirror by an extremely
> independent high functioning autistic child.
> 
> Francesca da Bari
> Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
> Francesca.da.Bari
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Subject: Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: Kwhykelly@aol.com

In a message dated 12/6/99 4:36:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< 
 -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
 
 Greetings all,
 I just bought 3 bolts of plaid silk taffeta. Each has 12 to 15 yards on it. 
 The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? 
 because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean electric orange....and black and 
 yellow on a white ground. Now I know they can be dipped to kill and change 
 the colors to a more acceptable combination. My question is: what to use? 
I'm 
 not a dyer but I use to be dye master for the local Shakespeare Festival 
 years ago. All we ever used was Tintex or Rit. All that's available here is 
 Rit or Dylon cold dye. In fact I just happen to have about 6 little packages 
 of Dylon in "Moon Blue"...a  pale grey/blue. I thought I'd use it to tint a 
 length of this orange plait silk. What do ya think? I can follow the 
 directions and do enough for a dress. I thought I'd dip some other lengths 
in 
 different tints...mint green or a purple-brown.
 
 Is there another dye I could use to get good results on a 6 or 7 yard 
length. 
 I only have a stove, hot plates, wash tubs, and a washing machine for 
 equipment. Should I stick with cold water or just [as I have in the past] 
use 
 hot water & Rit? Rit is fine for stage but I'd hate to make something, sell 
 it and then have it fade!
  __________________ >>

Finally, a question that I can answer!  I have been dying silk for that last 
5 years or so for costuming purposes.  I can say that Rit really is not a 
good choice as it never seems to stop bleeding.

You need a good acid dye.  Why not try Dharma Trading Co.  
http://www.dharmatrading.com/  I have successfully dyed 10 yard lengths with 
little to no streaks in it in the washing machine. Using the recommended oil 
helps keep the color even.

Kristi Kelly
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-Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>


Hi Albertcat,

Hmm.... cold water dye bath.... a beige overdye? Might calm down
the screaming orange nicely. Or how about a tea dye (depending on
how fast you want the color to be)

Let us know what happens-- I'm dying (oops, excuse me, how about
"anxious") to hear all about it!

-Gail DeCamp

>> The price at the rummage sale was right... $10 a bolt!!!!! Why so cheap? 
>> because the plaid is ORANGE! ... I mean electric orange....and black and 
>> yellow on a white ground.





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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>>
>>  Is it Nuvan-Tops ? comes in two very expensive cans one for the
>> house and one for cats dogs etc. 
>
>No.  I can't remember the name but it was one word. 

Zodiac?  I've had excelllent luck with that brand.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 11:05:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:22:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
In-Reply-To: <0.62171ae1.257df778@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Regarding bees and the Merovingians, there are certain legends (which are
just that -- legends -- so far as I can tell; little or no proof to back
it up) that the Merovingian kings were descended from the line of King
David (you know, the one in the Bible).  I can't decide whether this falls
into the medieval practice of trying to tie everything into the Bible,
whether there was historic documentation or not, or whether there might
have been something to it, since a good number of Jewish exiles after the
fall of Jerusalem in 70 AD did wind up in what was then southern Roman
Gaul.  Who knows?  But they might have believed it themselves, whether
it's true or not, in which case the bees might have to do with that.  

I was thinking that David killed a lion, but I'm mistaken, it's Samson who
killed the lion then returned later to find that bees had taken up
residence in the skull.  Still, there might be a tie-in, symbolically.




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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: OT- Ships/IWTV (was Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Since you mentioned Interview with the Vampire -- did you get a chance to
see the Schooner Alexandria when she was in New Orleans for the shoot?
She only wound up in about 30 seconds of the film, during the opening
credits, but we (volunteer crew) were thrilled that she was used at all.
She has since been sold and is unfortunately keeping company with other
ships off Cape Hatteras in the aptly-named Graveyard of the Atlantic.

Cheers
Mara

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From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
In-Reply-To: <001d01bf4089$5e19a760$6b67fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, Michelle wrote:
>    I agree.  When I first started participating in Renaissance Faires, I was
> told that the rule of thumb was -- if you can figure out how to get a color
> with nature, then you can use it. The point is, if you research and can find
> plants, bark, berries, etc. to get a certain color, chances are high that
> they did too.
> 
> Michelle

That's a good criteria.  I cringed a bit at the original poster saying
that if she'd seen a color in nature (i.e., the sunset), then she'd wear
it.  Well, there are some beautiful colors -- in flowers, bird plumage,
etc. -- which, while occuring in nature, are very hard or impossible to
acheive with natural dyes.  On the other hand, sometimes you'd be
surprised what you can find.

A good example is orchil, a dye from lichens in the Scottish Hebrides.
Yes, you can get brilliant mauves and pinks from this lichen, but it would
be SO cost-prohibitive that anything other than a stripe or a bit of trim
in this color would be beyond the means of any common person.  Likewise
with purple -- I got a rather muddy purple (more of a maroon) when I tried
overdyeing madder with indigo.  The fine ('royal') purples came from that
whelk whose name I can't remember right now, and the sheer quantity of
shellfish necessary to dye the fabric would have made it very expensive
for anyone to wear that particular shade of purple.

A good madder red is hard to acheive; usually it comes out barn-red.  This
color might or might not fade to a nice pink; it depends on the quality of
the dye and the skill of the dyer.  I think it is possible, but tricky.
They obviously did get pinks, if we can rely on the Tres Riches Heures.
It would be a good idea to look at existing portraits as a guide to what
range of colors was available.

The best reds in the Renaissance period were from cochineal or several
other insects.  This is where you get your true scarlets, and it would
probably be very expensive.  In the 18th century British army, soldiers'
coats were dyed with madder, and the officers' coats with cochineal.

I think any reenactor ought to get a good book on natural dyes, just to
give them a bit of an eye for the range of colors available.

Cheers,
Mara

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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 09:37:53 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>



> ----------
> From: 	don and carolyn richardson[SMTP:benrumson@worldnet.att.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, December 06, 1999 9:21 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
> 
I said:
> > 
> >   It's a book of little details sort of
> > > like "What Jane Austen Ate, What Charles Dickens Knew" or whichever
> way it
> > > goes, grouped by category and largely gleaned from Pepys' diaries.
> Every
> 
And Carolyn said:
> True, but what's the objection?  Pepys *did* live in the period - if he
> doesn't know what he's talking about who does?  
> 
Did I object?  I also said "grouped by category".  Just a point of
information.

MaggiRos



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 11:30:01 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:43:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
In-Reply-To: <0.bf612c26.257e75eb@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

What did you use to get this color?  Inquiring minds want to know...
Cheers,
Mara


On Tue, 7 Dec 1999 AlbraKat@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com
> 
> When a batch of natural dyestuffs failed to arrive for a local class I was 
> teaching--we played with the herbs in my garden and the spices in my rack. 
> When the contents of my spice rack produced a most wonderous shade of neon 
> fuschia pink , I too, was convinced that earlier folks must have enjoyed it, 
> too!! 
> cheers,
> albra
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 11:39:54 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 09:46:13 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Nicole--

Thank you so much!  That's what I was hoping to hear.  In fact, I was
particularly hoping to hear from you, since I've spent kind of a lot of time
on your website lately <g>.  The last time I asked about this period, the
only reply I got was a pointer to the your URL.  Since I was specifically
looking for working class costume, it wasn't perhaps exactly to the point,
but I've sure been learning a lot!  

I bought this book particularly hoping to fill in some of the blanks in my
general (as well as costume) knowledge, and add credible detail to a work of
fiction.  My concern wasn't with her sources but with possible flaws in her
interpretation of them.  Good to know I can rely on her.  This is all just
for a novel, mind you, not an advanced degree or anything, but I do prefer
to be right :)

Thanks,


> MaggiRos
> 
> 
> Mary Countess of Southampton (RPF ret.)
> Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend (Corona, CA)
> Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid) 
> and sometimes even 
> 	Maggie Secara
> 
A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1604)
is at   http://ren.dm.net


> ----------
> From: 	Marquis de Kipar[SMTP:marquis@kipar.org]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, December 06, 1999 8:08 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Re: Restoration London
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
> 
> 
> Congratulations on the book!
> 
> > I suppose I should have asked BEFORE buying the book, but now that I
> have it
> > I really must ask: Does anyone know anything/have an opinion about
> > "Restoration London" by Liza Picard?
> 
> It is just absolutely fantastic!!! One of the ever best books I have 
> seen so far on the late 17th century, admittedly, the 1660s. 
> Wonderful, lovely, my bible. Picard isn't a historian, but a lawyer, 
> and thus all the wonderful 'evidence' is there. Everyday life from 
> brushing one's teeth to monthly hygiene over clothes to statsitics and 
> god knows what else.
> 
>   It's a book of little details sort of
> > like "What Jane Austen Ate, What Charles Dickens Knew" or whichever way
> it
> > goes, grouped by category and largely gleaned from Pepys' diaries.
> Every
> 
> and of course John Evelyn as well, and Hutchinson.
> 
> > now and then I run across something I think sounds "off" but it's not my
> > period really, so I don't like to trust that first reaction alone.
> 
> Do trust this book. *nods* What might sound "off" to you is not off, 
> but the truth. I have a very large and tall bookshelf from the floor to 
> the ceiling with almost exclusively books on the late 17th century 
> Baroque period, I live and breathe for the French and English 
> Baroque ;-), and Picard has researched her book extremely well. 
> Plus she almost always gives the source for her facts, which means 
> no arguing with her, because it was written down by 
> contemporaries. *S* It's my period, really, and I highly recommend 
> the book to everyone interested in the period. Around 8 pounds 
> sterling.
> Nicole
> 
> ************************
> N. Kipar
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> French and English Baroque
> http://www.kipar.org/
> *Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
> *Triumphant Even In Adversity*
> marquis@kipar.org
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 11:41:45 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 09:49:49 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Yep, I got it from Amazon.com (US) this week, $19.25.  My only objection is
there aren't nearly enough pictures!  Some good ones, oh yes, but I always
want more.

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	KATE M BUNTING[SMTP:K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Tuesday, December 07, 1999 5:52 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Re: Restoration London
> 
> 
> -Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
> 
> My database tells me that this book IS now available in the US (St
> Martin's Press, ISBN 0312186592)
> 
> I haven't seen it myself, but it definitely sounds like one to look out
> for!
> 
> Kate Bunting
> Library, University of Derby
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 13:21:19 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 13:40:21 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
In-Reply-To: <384C9DDA.89B46E9A@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> I think I'd qualify that - don't buy any Singer machine made before
> 1965.  A lot of the 40s, 50s and 60s models came in green, pink, or tan
> (featherweights came in all 3 I think, as well as white).
> 
> And I doubt the featherweight reproduction scheduled for the end of the
> year will be worth the money.

I have seen *a* featherweight reproduction (not Singer, but with Singer's 
permission), with the same greek key decals, known as the "mini" or
something like that.  It was *not* worth the budget price it was given.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 13:32:00 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.SV4.3.96.991206145418.16504B-100000@saltmine.radix.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  Kidstuff was (Authenticity Enforcers)
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 19:44:43 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi all,

Mara wrote:
> (grin) But that's what dogs are for -- to eat all those scraps, and lick
> baby's face clean afterwards!  Why else would our ancestors have kept lots
> and lots of dogs underfoot (and under the table)?
>
> Ok, I'll stop the silliness now...

Ok. I know that it's meant to be silly, but it's sort of a pet (!) peeve of
mine: during most of the Middle Ages dogs were most of the time not kept as
pets (except for rich and/or noble ladies and wealthy abesses). They were
working animals. They were hunters for the nobility and farmers, guardians
of property or packanimals. Some of the first might have joined their noble
masters during dinner and were probably given scraps (see Duc de Berry in
his january portrait) and some lapdogs were very much indulged, but this
wasn't the norm. Dogs were certainly not as numerous as today and only from
a few breeds.
Henk

(And it has nothing to do with costume either... ;-)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 13:40:33 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E637841AD7D@scl-exch.phoenix.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: escuz
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 19:36:10 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi all

Cynthia asked:
> I dont know what the abbreviation "escuz." is. Unit of money?

Yes, it's a French gold coin, coined since 1337 (and often called 'Old
Shield' in the early 15th c) by then worth about half of an English noble.
On it was the coat of arms of the kings of France, the three fleurs de lis
in a shield. Shield in French is 'ecu', of which 'escuz' is the medieval
plural. Funny thing is that the new European coin from 1.1.2001 is going to
be called 'ecu' again.

Henk

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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 21:05:14 +0100
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>



Dear Maggie,

> Thank you so much!  That's what I was hoping to hear.  In fact, I was
> particularly hoping to hear from you, since I've spent kind of a lot of time
> on your website lately <g>.  The last time I asked about this period, the
> only reply I got was a pointer to the your URL.  Since I was specifically
> looking for working class costume, it wasn't perhaps exactly to the point,
> but I've sure been learning a lot!  

*blush* Thanks a lot!
That's what makes me happy and worthwhile to spend hundred of 
hours on the website. And even more, I remembered, since you are 
looking for working class costume, that I still have engravings from 
1689 depicting lower classes. I uploaded them and put them into the 
galleries. I hope 1689 is a date helpful for you. Go to
http://www.kipar.org/galleries.html
and then to Baroque Englavings then to 1680s. They are at the 
bottom.
All the best and I hope this helps (if you have more questions, just 
mail me via the address below)
Nicole


************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 13:54:23 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:02:49 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Bless your heart!  Thank you.   My particular focus is the 1670s (1675 to be
specific for this novel)  Naturally I wouldn't pick a year anyone else was
using, or a decade in which anything apparently happened. But I figure
working from the 60s and 80s, I may be able to make some reasonable
extrapolations.

Thanks again.

Maggie

> ----------
> From: 	Marquis de Kipar[SMTP:marquis@kipar.org]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Tuesday, December 07, 1999 12:05 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Re: Restoration London
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
> 
> 
> 
> Dear Maggie,
> 
> > Thank you so much!  That's what I was hoping to hear.  In fact, I was
> > particularly hoping to hear from you, since I've spent kind of a lot of
> time
> > on your website lately <g>.  The last time I asked about this period,
> the
> > only reply I got was a pointer to the your URL.  Since I was
> specifically
> > looking for working class costume, it wasn't perhaps exactly to the
> point,
> > but I've sure been learning a lot!  
> 
> *blush* Thanks a lot!
> That's what makes me happy and worthwhile to spend hundred of 
> hours on the website. And even more, I remembered, since you are 
> looking for working class costume, that I still have engravings from 
> 1689 depicting lower classes. I uploaded them and put them into the 
> galleries. I hope 1689 is a date helpful for you. Go to
> http://www.kipar.org/galleries.html
> and then to Baroque Englavings then to 1680s. They are at the 
> bottom.
> All the best and I hope this helps (if you have more questions, just 
> mail me via the address below)
> Nicole
> 
> 
> ************************
> N. Kipar
> Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
> French and English Baroque
> http://www.kipar.org/
> *Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
> *Triumphant Even In Adversity*
> marquis@kipar.org
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 15:01:37 1999
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

I can't get my system to copy Judie Adams post, but she was saying that back in the Mists of Time the RPFN/RPFS folks decided no pastels.  They did, right around 1980.  They also decided wheel farthingales were out (there had been a few, earlier).  As I recall they wanted to focus court clothes on Elizabeth's mid reign and not the end of the reign with the huge ruffs, pale colors and monumental sized farthingales.  

So we've been stuck with jewel tones (which is to my mind, not the end of the world) and of course, black....

Pamela D. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 16:34:58 1999
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To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
References: <199912062139.OAA02658@net.indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Listowner
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-Poster: "Johnna and David Goss" <djgoss@bellsouth.net>

Will the listowner please email me.

Thanks,
djgoss

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 18:22:25 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Restoration London
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>



Nicole said: 
> Plus she almost always gives the source for her facts, which means 
> no arguing with her, because it was written down by 
> contemporaries. 
> 
I'd hate to take this logic too far.  We are all contemporary with our own
fashions and heaven knows we argue all the time over what we wore when and
how it was made and what it was (or is) called. Tends to happen every time
we talk about the 60s, for example, we find that not everyone remembers the
same things or the same way.  Facts get interpreted by every witness.  No
arguing?  Not around here.:)

I find that re-enactors (including faire people from faires with costume
standards) tend to have a much better idea about how clothes fit and were
worn than anyone writing from ordinary research.  

On the other hand, I constantly have to make myself realize I may be
applying what I know about one era to another


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 19:10:21 1999
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

I need to dredge up my class notes to tell you.Give me a day or so--to make 
good on that:)
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 19:15:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 20:15:55 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Orange Cloth (Was: A dying silk question)
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>> Orange is my favorite colour!
>
>Oh, then you need to check out the pumpkin colored unsheared corduroy that
>Phoenix Textiles has for sale for $3 a yard.   I already bought some in
>another color and was so delighted with it  that I couldn't resist placing
>another order for the pumpkin, too.   It is the softest stuff!
>
>http://store.yahoo.com/phoenixtextiles/uncor2.html
>
>BTW, orders for $30 or more through Wednesday Dec. 9 get  free shipping,
>just in case you weren't tempted enough to order from them already.  I love
>Phoenix Textiles.  I always get such great deals from them.

Thanks!  I will. <g>  I'm not sure my husband will thank you but, hey, its
orange!  I hope no one buys it all before I get there!

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 19:17:07 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 18:45:50 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>


> That's a good criteria.  I cringed a bit at the original poster saying
> that if she'd seen a color in nature (i.e., the sunset), then she'd wear
> it.  

I never said I would wear it.  Sheesh....

Kathlene
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

> Folks may have enjoyed it at times. However, it was not as popular 
> amongst the people who bought cloth as one might think. Yes, they did 
> have it (and peach) but it is our *modern* aesthetics which says they 
> would like it if we do. They had different attitudes about this.
> 
> That's why the old saw "if they could have had it they would have 
> used it" doesn't work when studying history. There are a lot of 
> things they could have done and didn't because they didn't like it. 
> It wasn't their style. Pink is one of those things which could be 
> done and was done some, but wasn't as popular as it is now.
> 
> Kat 

Who is they?  When? Where?  This is too much of a generalization 

Again, I just can't bring myself to believe that, somewhere on this vast
planet, over the last 2000 or more years, neon-like pink was not at one
time or another, all the rage.  Just because we as modern humans with all
of our knowledge, machines and science, don't know about it, doesn't make
it not so.

There is a philosophy whose basic principle is, "There is nothing new under
the sun."  It is most accurate when applied to fashion.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 20:09:52 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 18:23:25 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
In-Reply-To: <199912070620.HAA16755@raq.dnsworld.de>
References: <0.62171ae1.257df778@aol.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 07:21 AM 12/07/1999 +0100, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Nicole-- I found three citations that may have the info. you were citing,
and I believe it's the 1st that's the one-- Carol / Gra/inne


1. Die Franken : Wegbereiter Europas : vor 1500 Jahren, Konig Chlodwig und
   seine Erben.  Mainz : Verlag P. von Zabern, c1996.
       UCB   Main      DC64 .F73 1996 v.1-2 (1996)
       UCLA  URL       DC 64 F73 1996
       UCSB  Arts Lib  AEC-83520 Arts
       UCSD  Art&Arch  DC64 .F73 1996 Stacks

2. Kaiser, Reinhold.
     Die Franken : Roms Erben und Wegbereiter Europas? / Reinhold Kaiser.  1.
   Aufl.  Idstein : Schulz-Kirchner, 1997.
     Series title:  Historisches Seminar (Series) ; n.F., Bd. 10.
       UCB   Main      DC64 .K35 1997

3. Oppermann, Hans, 1895-
     Caesar, Wegbereiter Europas.  Gottingen, Musterschmidt [1963, c1958].
     Series title:  Personlichkeit und Geschichte ; Bd. 10.
       SRLF            A 0008951147 Type EXP SRLF for loan details.


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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 21:46:01 EST
Subject: Re: OT- Ships/IWTV (was Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/07/1999 12:30:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
lindo@Radix.Net writes:

<< Since you mentioned Interview with the Vampire -- did you get a chance to
 see the Schooner Alexandria when she was in New Orleans for the shoot?
 She only wound up in about 30 seconds of the film, during the opening
 credits, but we (volunteer crew) were thrilled that she was used at all.
 She has since been sold and is unfortunately keeping company with other
 ships off Cape Hatteras in the aptly-named Graveyard of the Atlantic.
  >>

How sad! I live on the coast of NC and have been to the Outer Banks many 
times. I remember some 1830s masted ship washed up on a public beach after a 
storm one fall when we were there. People were flocking to it with chainsaws 
and cutting chunks off as souvenirs! The police couldn't stop them so they 
gave everybody parking tickets for parking on the sand and imposed the 
highest fines.

On "Vampire" I worked in the shop from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM and they filmed 
from 8:00 PM to 8:00 AM so I never was on set or saw any filming, alas.
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Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 21:47:45 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Thank you Kathlene.I could'nt have said it better.
Albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 20:31:34 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 18:44:13 -0800
To: (Recipient list suppressed)
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fwd: Widowhood
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

I don't recall if this was a topic on H-Costume or SCA Garb, so I'm posting
it to both.  I just copycataloged a pbk. copy of this today.  It would be a
worthwhile read for those with widow-/widower personae from England, Italy,
Germany, from a quick skim through. -- Gra/inne / Carol

>   LCCN: 98-52954    ISBN: 0582317479 (cased) ;  0582317487 (paper :
17.99p. UK)
>LC Call#: HQ1058.5.E97 W53 1999 Dewey Decimal #: 305.48/9654/094 2 21
>   Widowhood in medieval and early modern Europe /  edited by Sandra
Cavallo and
>Lyndan Warner.   Singapore :  Longman ;  Harlow, U.K. ;  New York :  Pearson
>Education Ltd., c1999.   xiii, 272 p. :  ill. ; 22 cm. (Women and men in
>history)    Includes bibliographical references (p. 240-261) and index.
>1. Widowhood--Europe--History. 2. Widows--Europe--History. 3.
Widowers--Europe--History. 
>I. Cavallo, Sandra.  II. Warner, Lyndan.  UC Davis's Zebra ID#:
31175024933973

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 21:05:28 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 22:22:28 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

I seem to recall reading that this book, by Stella Mary Newton, was out.
But I just tried Borders.com and Amazon, and they have it listed as back
ordered, not out yet.  Has it been released?  Is there a better place for me
to order it from?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 21:10:58 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 12:38 PM 12/7/99 -0500, Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
[lots of snips]
>
>They obviously did get pinks, if we can rely on the Tres Riches Heures.
>It would be a good idea to look at existing portraits as a guide to what
>range of colors was available.

I have a picture of a full-length portrait of Sir Francis Drake, painted c.
1580-85, in which he is wearing a full suite of clothes in an intense pink:
doublet (satin), venetians (velvet), and netherhose (probably knitted in
silk), plus cloak (satin). Said doublet worn with white, slashed sleeves
(satin). Cloak is lined with black and the black is edged with wide silver
lace; the collar and fronts of the cloak are turned to show the black
against the pink cloak. He is wearing white shoes inserted into black
pantofles (sp?) to protect them. He is holding a soft black hat (looks like
velvet) in his hand. And he is wearing a sword and back dagger (you can see
the end of the hilt peeking out on his right side). I would like to see
anyone accuse *this* seaman of being weak! Looks to me like this color would
merit the label "lusty gallant"!

>I think any reenactor ought to get a good book on natural dyes, just to
>give them a bit of an eye for the range of colors available.

I agree completely, Mara. Too many people have no idea what colors are
possible with natural dyestuffs. In many cases today's dyestuffs are simply
synthetically produced copies of natural plant dyes; indigo is the prime
example but it is not alone.  Our ancestors found the best sources for red
and blue dyes; all we have done is copy them.

One thing to remember, silk takes dyes *much* more intensely than wool.
Putting silk and wool samples into the same dyebath can be very instructive.
Most of the portraits we are using are of people wearing silk fabrics of one
sort or another.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 21:16:27 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: costume list <H-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: partlet q
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

Just quickly (this is for something I'd like to have finished by
Saturday), can anyone give me an idea of how common partlets
without collars were? (Talking the black over-partlet here, not the
linen 'is this a shirt or not' sort)


------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 20:08:53 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: sewing machine advice requested.
References: <4.2.0.58.19991205083536.00965d70@pop.farg.uswest.net> <4.2.0.58.19991207084341.0094ec80@pop.farg.uswest.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kim Baird wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
> 
> Don't you mean AFTER 1965?
> 
> At 09:40 PM 12/06/1999 -0800, you wrote:
> 
> >-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
> >
> >I think I'd qualify that - don't buy any Singer machine made before
> >1965.  A lot of the 40s, 50s and 60s models came in green, pink, or tan
> >(featherweights came in all 3 I think, as well as white).

Yep.  Mea culpa.  That should have been *after* 1965.  My primary
machine is a 1961 Model 500A.  I'm thinking of one of the fancy
embroidery machines (I was looking at the Janome) but since buying a $20
buttonholer for the slant 500A (on Ebay, a wonderful place), I'm less
inclined to spend the nearly $2000 on the model I was looking at.  I
really only wanted it for buttonholes. 

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 22:54:08 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 06:10:17 +0100
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>

Morning Carol,

> Nicole-- I found three citations that may have the info. you were citing,
> and I believe it's the 1st that's the one-- Carol / Gra/inne
> 
> 
> 1. Die Franken : Wegbereiter Europas : vor 1500 Jahren, Konig Chlodwig und
>    seine Erben.  Mainz : Verlag P. von Zabern, c1996.
>        UCB   Main      DC64 .F73 1996 v.1-2 (1996)
>        UCLA  URL       DC 64 F73 1996
>        UCSB  Arts Lib  AEC-83520 Arts
>        UCSD  Art&Arch  DC64 .F73 1996 Stacks

Yes, exactly, it is this one *S* So you did find it by inter library 
loan? Fantastic books but... of course in German (I translated quite 
some now and then for my boyfriend ;-) But the illustrations are 
worth borrowing it anyway, loads of them.
Enjoy!
Nicole
P.S. If you need the odd picture caption to be translated, just send it 
over, no problem.
************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 22:58:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 23:27:12 -0600
From: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>
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Subject: H-COST: quotes  was: bees
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

I'm sorry to take so long in getting back to this.  I know it is
probably too late for your class sampler, but I thought I'd go ahead and
send this out for the future.  There is a resource online called the
Internet Public Library that has links to all sorts of reference
materials.  For instance, there are links to about 14 different quote
pages in the quotation section (under reference), including a link to
Bartlett's online.

http://www.ipl.org/ref/

It is a great site.  I highly recommend it for quick reference searches.

-Magdalena the librarian in training

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 23:04:49 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Pink!
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I have several "color wheel" samples of wool dyed in pre-1600 dyes & 
mordants. There is a lovely pink dyed with cochineal mordanted with tin ( or 
dyed in a tin pot). Medieval illuminations (like the Tres Riches Heures) show 
pink garments next to red ones, so pink was NOT a red that faded, like some 
have argued. 

Kathleen Norvell
How many costumes do you think I can pack?"
--"Start the Revolution without Me"
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec  7 23:34:50 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 06:53:23 +0100
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Subject: H-COST: 1670s (was Restoration London)
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>


Hi Maggie,

> Oh these are perfect.  Perfect!  Now of course if you do happen to run
> across anything for mid-70s English, of course I'll want to know. 

There you go, I put up more engravings into the 1670s section. 
Including some hunting scenes, which means not the latest fashion 
is depicted in them.

> is grand!  The current story is set in '75 (and actually in the Caribbean,
> where it's such a pain sifting good material from bad pyrates), but it's

It's a safe bet to look at English or French fashion and extrapolate 
from there. Plus, what came out to be very true is the following: 
lower/working class costume is always 'old fashioned' in the sense 
of 'keeping one's best clothing for many years'. Thus if you describe 
1660s clothing for the 1670s, it wouldn't be wrong. Of course it was 
impossible for the people to be dressed according to the latest 
fashion. Unless, of course, it is a maid or manservant in service of a 
noble or rich person who would then probably be dressed in a 
simpler version of their Mistress's/Master's high fashion. A lot like 
nowadays, when cars are a status symbol, or an expensive leash for 
a dog. I know this sounds a bit weird now, but it's the best 
comparison I have available ;-)

> Now how an Elizabethan girl like me found herself in the early Baroque is,
> well, another story.  In any case, I may very well be tugging on your sleeve
> for a hint or two in the next few weeks while I finish the last chapter and
> refine the rest before turning it over to my agent.  Thanks for
> volunteering!

No problem. *S* oh, and your comment on how people nowadays 
get the contemporary clothing wrong, hmm... but they were 
eyewitnesses. Have you actually read Pepys? There are 
paperbacks available. And his descriptions of what he bought for his 
wife or for himself are really very detailed, he had a keen interest in 
clothes. After all, he made a career in Restoration London, and 
again, clothes for himself and his wife were a status symbol of his 
upgoing in society.

All the best
Nicole

************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 03:48:42 1999
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From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Re; Pink
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-Poster: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>

Just a thought, but is the 'problem with pink' more to do with terminology
rather than wether the colour existed? Without the photographs etc. how else
would people describe colours than with reference to known items? Does
anyone know when pinks were introduced? (All my fathers pinks are white!)
The textile artist who has recreated some of the painted textiles for
Hampton court warns of using paintings as evidence for fabric colours.
For years I'd been told that orange carrots didn't exist until the 18th
century, then one day I was shown a beautiful gardening book from 1638 which
described both red and white carrots. The hand coloured illustration was of
orange carrots. This got me thinking, as I have two red haired daughters who
were curious as to why their orangey blonde hair was called red? Perhaps
it's because oranges were relatively rare so the common association of
colour with the fruit wasn't used until later? Modern colour descriptions
tend to be more mundane anyway.
As to bright colours, I finally got to see goose turds! Rather than the
muted green I thought goose turd green would be it was a strange bright
yellowy green.

Joy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 06:33:20 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Cc: folly_hill@hotmail.com
Subject: H-COST: Old Store Stock Inventory Complete!
Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 04:43:39 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Hi guys,
Just letting every one know that the Old Store Stock Inventory is complete 
and we are finalizing the format for the bidding and notification to 
interested parties.  Please let everyone who is interested (or might be) 
know that bidding is scheduled to be from Jan. 1, 2000 to Jan. 15, 2000.  
There will be a viewing date tentatively scheduled for Wednesday, Jan. 5, 
2000 where people can come and see the merchandise before they submit a bid. 
  There are over 3000 items, divided into over 300 lots of like components.  
Bids will be accepted for individual lots (thes are mostly groups of 10 or 
so like items) or the entire inventory, which is valued at well over 
$30,000.  Minimum bids will be posted, and the owner of the inventory 
reserves the right to reject all bids if the minimum is not met.  Winning 
bidders will be notified within 3 days after the bidding closes Jan. 15.  
Payment will be in cashier's check, money order, or wired funds.  Personal 
checks will be held for 14 business days to clear.  Reasonable shipping 
charges will be added unless prior arrangements are made.  Again, a list of 
items in the inventory includes:

(all items c. 1890 - 1940, unsold overstock from TofC General Store)
Corsets & girdles
Stockings - silk, wool, and cotton
Gloves & mittens - cotton, rayon, silk, and wool types
Hats (knitted & leather caps, mostly)
Ladies' shirtwaists
Men's pants & shirts
Children's clothing
Boxed shoes - mostly ladies, some childrens
Unboxed shoes & boots - men's, women's, children's
Galoshes
Sewing supplies - thread, notions, buckles, etc.
Millinery ribbon - rayon and silk
Underwear - incl. nainsook bocker sets, silky rayon tap pants, wool long 
johns, all types
2 thread cabinets w/ unsold silk thread in mint condition
Wool & wool blend sweaters - many in unbelievably great condition - men's, 
women's, children's

If you are interested and have not yet notified me, please do so now so that 
I can see you get a copy of the inventory & photos of the merchandise.

Please pass this on to the vintage costume mailing list, as I do not 
subscribe and I know there are people out there who need this stuff.  I will 
post a message to the list when the final dates & arrangements are made, 
within the next week or two.  So stay tuned!

Thanks,
Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991208124339.66964.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Old Store Stock Inventory Complete!
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-Poster: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>


----- Original Message -----
From: Susannah Eanes <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 7:43 AM

> Hi guys,
> Just letting every one know that the Old Store Stock Inventory is complete
> and we are finalizing the format for the bidding and notification to
> interested parties.

Oh hooray!  I have been _waiting_ for these. ;-)
>
> Please pass this on to the vintage costume mailing list, as I do not
> subscribe and I know there are people out there who need this stuff.

I'll be happy to.....or wait...that would mean more
competition....hmm....*grin*
Okay, okay, I listened to the good angel on my shoulder and just did it. =)

Can't wait to see everything!
Kerrie (who will now be saving every penny that falls into her Christmas
stocking)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 07:52:33 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: costume list <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: partlet q
In-Reply-To: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991208135731.9936B-100000@mercury.physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


In Flanders in the 1550s to 1570s, they were very commonly worn by
peasants, marketwomen, and others working outdoors.  In Flemish genre
paintings of the time, most women are shown either wearing a black partlet
with a flared collar, or a white partlet of the same shape.  
Partlets with ruffs attached to a collar band began appearing in late
1560s paintings, and were ubiquitous in paintings of the 1570s.

These partlets were a feather of lower-class or servants' dress; I haven't
seen them worn with upper class or merchant class dress in the 1570s.

Hope this helps,

Drea

 On Wed, 8
Dec 1999, The Purple Elephant wrote:

> 
> -Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
> 
> Just quickly (this is for something I'd like to have finished by
> Saturday), can anyone give me an idea of how common partlets
> without collars were? (Talking the black over-partlet here, not the
> linen 'is this a shirt or not' sort)
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
> Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
> and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
> friendly substance.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:03:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:18:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
In-Reply-To: <199912080133.SAA10350@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, K & J Hopkins wrote:
> Who is they?  When? Where?  This is too much of a generalization 
> 
> Again, I just can't bring myself to believe that, somewhere on this vast
> planet, over the last 2000 or more years, neon-like pink was not at one
> time or another, all the rage.  Just because we as modern humans with all
> of our knowledge, machines and science, don't know about it, doesn't make
> it not so.
> 
> There is a philosophy whose basic principle is, "There is nothing new under
> the sun."  It is most accurate when applied to fashion.
> 
> Kathlene

Maybe.  BUT -- research and document!  You could use the same argument
that camoflauge fatigue-cloth was surely all the rage somewhere, sometime
in the past... and then use it to justify making 16th c. garb out of it.
I know that's not your intention, but...  There ARE new things, and we DO
need to figure out what's appropriate for our period before doing it.  The
people who assume that some things are not period without doing their
research and the people who assume that some things are period without
doing their research are both at fault.

We need a careful balance between 'Nobody has ever done that' and 'Surely
somebody did that', and that balance is mediated by research.

Cheers,
Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:05:52 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:22:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: OT- Ships/IWTV (was Re: H-COST: A dying silk question
In-Reply-To: <0.525dc43d.257f2069@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> How sad! I live on the coast of NC and have been to the Outer Banks many 
> times. I remember some 1830s masted ship washed up on a public beach after a 
> storm one fall when we were there. People were flocking to it with chainsaws 
> and cutting chunks off as souvenirs! The police couldn't stop them so they 
> gave everybody parking tickets for parking on the sand and imposed the 
> highest fines.
> 
> On "Vampire" I worked in the shop from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM and they filmed 
> from 8:00 PM to 8:00 AM so I never was on set or saw any filming, alas.

Ugh -- I hate to hear about people doing that.  We have so little respect
for our sailing heritage...  The Alexandria was built in 1929, a
traditional Baltic schooner, so she's not as big a loss as, say, a
historic vessel.  They're still building ships like her in the Baltic, I'm
happy to say.

I know Anne Rice fans had problems with IWTV, but the movie (and our
ship's involvement with it) at least got me to read her books!  I'd never
heard of her before.  Great costumes :D

-- Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:10:31 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re; Pink
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

It could  very well be a terminology thing.As you say, with regard to  the 
REAL, fresh from the goose  'goose turd green',  in particular---it looks 
rather shockingly like the 'acid' or 'lime' or 'pistachio' green that made 
it's revival in fashion circles of late:)
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:12:43 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:29:01 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19991207192526.3b577fb2@mail2.quiknet.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999, Joan M Jurancich wrote:
> 
> At 12:38 PM 12/7/99 -0500, Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> [lots of snips]
> >
> >They obviously did get pinks, if we can rely on the Tres Riches Heures.
> >It would be a good idea to look at existing portraits as a guide to what
> >range of colors was available.
> 
> I have a picture of a full-length portrait of Sir Francis Drake, painted c.
> 1580-85, in which he is wearing a full suite of clothes in an intense pink:
> doublet (satin), venetians (velvet), and netherhose (probably knitted in
> silk), plus cloak (satin). Said doublet worn with white, slashed sleeves
> (satin)
(snips)

Certainly sounds interesting!  And like I said, it's pretty clear that
pinks were available... but I still think that 'neon' is a bit much.
 
> >I think any reenactor ought to get a good book on natural dyes, just to
> >give them a bit of an eye for the range of colors available.
> 
> I agree completely, Mara. Too many people have no idea what colors are
> possible with natural dyestuffs. In many cases today's dyestuffs are simply
> synthetically produced copies of natural plant dyes; indigo is the prime
> example but it is not alone.  Our ancestors found the best sources for red
> and blue dyes; all we have done is copy them.
> 
> One thing to remember, silk takes dyes *much* more intensely than wool.
> Putting silk and wool samples into the same dyebath can be very instructive.
> Most of the portraits we are using are of people wearing silk fabrics of one
> sort or another.
> 
> Joan Jurancich
> Sacramento, CA
> joanj@quiknet.com

Point taken.  However, I disagree that modern synthetic dyes are usually
copies of natural dyes.  I'm thinking in particular of a gawd-awful piece
of neon-green woolen fabric, the posessor of whom will remain nameless.  I
refuse to believe that that neon green was acheivable in the 18th century,
on wool.  I've never seen a similar shade in any period portraits, and I
don't think I could even begin to duplicate it using natural dyes.

Fortunately, such lapses in color judgement are rare :D

Usually I fall on the side of the argument that says we would be simply
amazed at the wonderful and creative things our ancestors could do.  But
that simply MUST be tempered with caution and research.

Cheers,
Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:14:01 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:30:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: costume list <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Banyan question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991208135731.9936B-100000@mercury.physics.adelaide.edu.au>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Can anyone point me to pictures on the web, or instructions, for a man's
dressing gown from the mid-1700s?

Thanks,
Mara


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:18:06 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:34:14 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Pink!
In-Reply-To: <0.c651ca74.257f44a4@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

We did a cochineal/tin sample at a workshop I took last year, and
got a shockingly bright shade of pink.  Quite lovely!  (But I still
wouldn't call it neon <grin>)

Cheers,
Mara


On Wed, 8 Dec 1999 Appin1@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Appin1@aol.com
> 
> I have several "color wheel" samples of wool dyed in pre-1600 dyes & 
> mordants. There is a lovely pink dyed with cochineal mordanted with tin ( or 
> dyed in a tin pot). Medieval illuminations (like the Tres Riches Heures) show 
> pink garments next to red ones, so pink was NOT a red that faded, like some 
> have argued. 
> 
> Kathleen Norvell
> How many costumes do you think I can pack?"
> --"Start the Revolution without Me"
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.SV4.3.96.991208091938.3151C-100000@saltmine.radix.net>
Subject: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:44:00 -0500
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-Poster: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>


----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 AM

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:34:16 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Claudia Kidwell's article on short gowns, in Dress, vol. 4 (1978) shows 
directions from M. de Garsault for a "manteau-de-lit."  You should be able to 
find the volume in a good university library.  Back issues are also available 
from the Costume Society of America:  www.costumesocietyamerica.com.  A 
banyan was basically just a longer version of a short gown.  The 
milliners/tailor at Colonial Williamsburg have made a reproduction of a 
banyan in their collection.  I'm not sure if they have information available 
on how to do it.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 08:45:44 1999
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From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@mackie.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

The book is just now arriving in publisher Boydell & Brewer's US warehouse.  It was originally supposed to be published in September, but was delayed.

You can reach them at:

Boydell & Brewer
PO Box 41026, Rochester NY 14604
P (716) 275-0419 F (716) 271-8778
www.boydell.co.uk   

Regards, 

Colleen McDonald Hinrichs

>>> "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net> 12/07 7:22 PM >>>

-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

I seem to recall reading that this book, by Stella Mary Newton, was out.
But I just tried Borders.com and Amazon, and they have it listed as back
ordered, not out yet.  Has it been released?  Is there a better place for me
to order it from?

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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:02:14 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/08/1999 9:32:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
lindo@Radix.Net writes:

<< 
 Can anyone point me to pictures on the web, or instructions, for a man's
 dressing gown from the mid-1700s?
  >>

I have a picture of 3 men all in Banyans in a Metro. Museum bulletin I can 
try to scan and send you. [We got the procedure down for that 1770s coat 
thread] The early one is a T shaped tunic! out of fantastic Indian silk. The 
later ones in the group are tailored somewhat like a mans coat.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 10:31:24 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Just a thought, but is the 'problem with pink' more to do with terminology
> rather than wether the colour existed? Without the photographs etc. how else
> would people describe colours than with reference to known items? Does
> anyone know when pinks were introduced? (All my fathers pinks are white!)

Pinks by the 16th century were a range of colors but what we now call 
pink is one of them (as can be seen by portraits of the time). Tudor 
times was one of the first times when pink as a color for clothing 
was popular (the ones in Tres Riche Heurs being a rarity, not a 
common color at the time). They became more popular as you get to 
Elizabethan times. They were probably made with either lichens (for 
small amounts such as used in embroidery or tapestries) and either 
madder or kermes (madder giving a more brick pink) pre1500, then 
cochineal after 1500. 

> The textile artist who has recreated some of the painted textiles for
> Hampton court warns of using paintings as evidence for fabric colours.

You can find pink in tapestries from the time periods pre1600  and 
there are color descriptions in manuscripts which help as well. 
Manuscripts, wills and inventories give us an idea of how common 
colors were.

> For years I'd been told that orange carrots didn't exist until the 18th
> century, then one day I was shown a beautiful gardening book from 1638 which
> described both red and white carrots. The hand coloured illustration was of
> orange carrots. 

As far as carrots are concerned, we know exactly when the mutation 
for the gene arrived. Until shortly after 1600 (I forget the exact 
date. It's either 1604 or 1607) there were yellow, white and purple 
carrots. There was a new mutation which was so dominant, it became 
just about the only color available. Although you can sometimes find 
seeds for white carrots (which look more like parsnips but taste like 
carrots) in catalogs which specialize in "old varieties", you can't 
get the yellow or purple anymore. Also, if you grow the white ones 
anywhere near where there are orange ones, the next years seeds are 
going to grow orange ones. (Been there, done that.)

This got me thinking, as I have two red haired daughters who
> were curious as to why their orangey blonde hair was called red? Perhaps
> it's because oranges were relatively rare so the common association of
> colour with the fruit wasn't used until later? Modern colour descriptions
> tend to be more mundane anyway.

I do know that red hair has been called that from fairly early in 
history. I come from a very red headed family (which is a 
recessessive gene but that didn't seem to make a difference in our 
family.) Our family got its name (Russell) from the french for red in 
early medieval times. In reading about the family, the "red" is 
described in many shades from pink to russet to tawny to flaming  and 
many others I'd have to dig out too many sheets of paper to list. I 
don't know when they started describing it as "orange" or "carroty" 
but it's probably fairly recent.

I think what this whole discussion boils down to is that: 
1. even when they could get the color, it wasn't necessarily used. 
Our modern aethetics doesn't match what they would have liked and 
what they liked changed from year to year (sometimes regulated by the 
guilds so that even if you liked it, it wouldn't have been 
available.) Also even if *you* liked it, you wouldn't be caught dead 
wearing it because we can get away with individuality now in a way 
that didn't happen in most other period in Europe.

2. do the research. Don't assume that something popular in 1580 was 
popular in 1550, let alone 1800 or in 1200, even if you like it.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 12:26:42 1999
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Subject: H-COST: partlets
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 99 09:47:34 -0800
x-sender: gdecamp@shell12.ba.best.com
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From: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>
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-Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>



I have seen plenty of pictures of these. This is from memory, I can go
home and look up artists and dates if you want. (I lectured on this at
last year's Celebrate History convention, and I still have the slides
from that.)

When:  1540-1580
Where: Lowlands (roughly, belgium IIRC)
On Who:  Mainly I found these in pictures of women who were well,
but not richly, dressed. I found black over-partlets worn with red 
bodices and skirts, and the women also had white linen stomachers
and head coverings. 

cheers,

Gail DeCamp

>- -Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
>
>Just quickly (this is for something I'd like to have finished by
>Saturday), can anyone give me an idea of how common partlets
>without collars were? (Talking the black over-partlet here, not the
>linen 'is this a shirt or not' sort)



Dogs come when you call them. Cats have answering machines.  

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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 12:15:56 -0600 (EST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re; Pink
In-Reply-To: <005301bf4164$b57768e0$6a21893e@default>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Wed, 8 Dec 1999, Joy Shillaker wrote:

> Just a thought, but is the 'problem with pink' more to do with terminology
> rather than wether the colour existed?

I always figured that the myth that "Pink isn't period" came from a
misinterpretation of the fact that the *word* pink wasn't period (at least
not in SCA/Faire periods). The word comes from the name of the flower,
which itself was named for its ragged edges (using the earlier meaning of
the word "pink," as in pinked edges). It's been a while since I looked
this up, so I don't have the dates of the word origins handy, but they're
in the OED, among other places.

Anyway, I figure the current misunderstanding may have gone like this
(over the course of time):

Person One: "Did you know the word `pink' isn't period?"
Person Two: "Person One says `pink' isn't period."
Rest of flock: "Pink isn't period!"

Person One may have been a well-read book or article, for that matter.

I don't think there's much question that the *color* pink existed. It just
wasn't called "pink."

--Robin

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912081648.IAA20239@eclipse.pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re; Pink
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi List,

Kat wrote:
> Pinks by the 16th century were a range of colors but what we now call
> pink is one of them (as can be seen by portraits of the time). Tudor
> times was one of the first times when pink as a color for clothing
> was popular (the ones in Tres Riche Heurs being a rarity, not a
> common color at the time).

Just recently I have browsed through thousands of miniatures, mostly in
black and white, because the books which published the manuscripts in
facsimile at the time (pre World War II) were not in colour, but also lots
of them in colour (especially the more recent facsimile's). Apart from such
well known MSS as the Maciejowski Bible, the Manesse Codex and The Luttrell
Psalter and the Romance of Alexander, there are hundreds more of my period
(1250-1350). I can assure you, that lots of cottes, surcottes and several
other types of overcoats and mantles are painted in pinks. Of course
manuscript colours are not the same as cloth dyes and a painter might have a
limited palette, but IMO pink was a pretty common colour before 1400. It
might be a costly wool or silk for a noble or rich merchant, or a faded red
(Dutch people are mentioned to wear red a lot before 1500) with peasants or
artisans, but they are depicted in pinks, yes sir!

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 12:50:50 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:05:11 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Fwd: Hands-On WOrkshops (fwd)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>

As this is on the East Coast, I won't be able to attend. However, if some of
you who are closer happen to drop by, I'd be interested in a review of this
event.

>  -----fwd--------
>  Subject: Hands-On WOrkshops
>  
>  Crafts and skills from Eastern Europe and the Balkans will be featured
>  at the upcoming Celebration 2000 conference, held at Tompkins Cortland 
>  Community college, May 12,13,14, 2000.
>  
>  Participants will be able to actually make Polish papercuttings, paint
>  Silesian wood ornaments and learn Czech and Slovak folkdance. They will
>  see demonstrations of Russian woodcarving, Ukrainian and Ruthenian egg
>  decoration and learn about Hungarian folk textiles. The workshops will
>  take place on Friday afternoon, May 12 from 12-3 and from 3-5pm. Sign up
>  now for these workshops. During the afternoon, videos on folk crafts and
>  life will be shown to those not participating in the workshops.
>  
>  Famed dancers, Jeanette and Don Pafko will demonstrate folk dances from
>  the Czech and Slovak republics in the dance studio. Then, participants
>  will learn dance steps and try out folk dances. At the same time,
>  Professor Nicolai Klimaczewski will demonstrate Russian woodcarving. Nic
>  has restored several local Orthodox churches. In the art studio
>  Professor Mary Kelly, who spent several summers in Krakow will show her
>  collection of Polish papercuttings, demonstrate and help participants to
>  make their own papercuttings using traditional methods.
>  
>  During the later session, California painter Marilyn Brown demonstrate
>  Silesian folk painting and help students to paint a wood ornament. At
>  the same time, Binghamton artist Kathy Tatich, will show her collection
>  of Rusyn and Ukrainian eggs and demonstrate the wax batik and scratch
>  methods of decorating and dyeing them. FInally Hungarian textile artist
>  Eniko Farkas will discuss embroidery and lacemaking tehniques of her
>  native land, augmenting her presentation with pieces from her personal
>  collection.  
>  
>  After the workshops, an art opening the the college Board Room gallery
>  will feature the photography show "Sisters to Amazons", folk dress and
>  life in the Volga region of Chuvashia, Russia. Chuvash ethnographer
>  Valentina Elem will be present during the opening and will bring with
>  her many spectacular pieces from her collection of folkdress.
>  
>  the evening will conclude with a Parade of Folkdress organized and
>  narrated by Helene CIncebeaux, of Rochester, NY. Constumes from each of
>  the regions highlighted by the conference will be modeled by their
>  owners. The conference is sponsored by the Department of Humanities.
>  Pleases direct inquiries to Sandra Pollack, alternate coordinator at the
>  college pollacs@sunytccc.edu.
>   
>  


Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 12:53:42 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 11:09:14 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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References: <199912081648.IAA20239@eclipse.pacifier.com> <007801bf41ae$02ed8a20$70eaf1c3@henk>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Just recently I have browsed through thousands of miniatures, mostly in
> black and white, because the books which published the manuscripts in
> facsimile at the time (pre World War II) were not in colour, but also lots
> of them in colour (especially the more recent facsimile's). Apart from such
> well known MSS as the Maciejowski Bible, the Manesse Codex and The Luttrell
> Psalter and the Romance of Alexander, there are hundreds more of my period
> (1250-1350).

Henk, I have looked and looked and can't find the Romance of Alexander or the
Manesse Codex.  Which leads me to believe that the books are titled
differently.  I would so love some titles or your book list or something along
those lines.  Can you do this?

Merouda

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:23:15 -0500
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-Poster: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Mabel
Allo everyone!
I posted this to the list earlier, but when it arrived in my inbox the =
entire message was blank.  If it didn't come in that way for anyone else =
I apologise for the re-run but I thought I'd re-send it just in case. =
=3D)=20

----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 AM

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 13:18:30 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re; Pink
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:27:29 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>



> ----------
> From: 	Robin Netherton[SMTP:robin@shell.nightowl.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, December 08, 1999 10:15 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Re; Pink
> 
> 
> -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
> 
> 
> Person One: "Did you know the word `pink' isn't period?"
> Person Two: "Person One says `pink' isn't period."
> Rest of flock: "Pink isn't period!"
> 
> Person One may have been a well-read book or article, for that matter.
> 
Uh-hunh.  The folk process in action!  That's exactly what happens.  Or
someone says "buttons aren't period"  or pockets or any number of things.
Sometimes they mean "we don't want you to use them" but they don't trust
their people, or think everyone is dumb, or what people remember (because
someone of them weren't paying attention) and what remains is "it isn't
period."

Sad but true.  This is probably how someone arrived at the "knowledge" that
metal isn't period, too. :)


MaggiRos




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 13:30:22 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 11:52:24 -0800
Subject: FW: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Here is some info I got on the availability of this book.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
From: Irene Joshi <joshi@u.washington.edu>
To: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
Subject: Re: FW: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Wed, Dec 8, 1999, 11:25 AM


Barnes and Noble lists as available in 1-2 weeks.  $28.00

Amazon.co.uk  lists as shipped in 24 hours. pds. 15.99.

This is a reprint of 1980.  


Irene Joshi, M.L.S.
South Asia Librarian 
Box 352900 
University of Washington
Seattle, WA 98195-2900
http://www.lib.washington.edu/subject/SouthAsia/
Committee on South Asia Libraries and Documentation
http://www.lib.virginia.edu/area-studies/SouthAsia/Lib/consald.html

On Wed, 8 Dec 1999, R.L. Shep wrote:

> Isn't this your area??
> Robb
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com
> 
> ----------
> From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> To: <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
> Date: Tue, Dec 7, 1999, 7:22 PM
> 
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
> 
> I seem to recall reading that this book, by Stella Mary Newton, was out.
> But I just tried Borders.com and Amazon, and they have it listed as back
> ordered, not out yet.  Has it been released?  Is there a better place for
me
> to order it from?
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> 
> 



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From: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:40:25 -0500
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-Poster: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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MabelAllo everyone!
I posted this to the list earlier, but when it arrived in my inbox the =
entire message was blank.  If it didn't come in that way for anyone else =
I apologise for the re-run but I thought I'd re-send it just in case. =
=3D)=20

----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 AM

> Ugh -- I hate to hear about people doing that.  We have so little =
respect
> for our sailing heritage...

This is too true!  Anyone in or near Philadelphia, who's interested in =
such
things, might like to know that the beautiful S.S. United States is =
sitting
forlornly at pier 82.
Even though she's been stripped of all her fittings, her paint is faded =
and
she's all but covered in rust, she is still one of the most breathtaking
sights I've ever seen.  We make it a point to drive by the pier and =
"visit"
whenever we go downtown.  =3D)
There is an effort in motion to try to have this ship restored to her =
old
glory, please visit Mike Alexander's website at:
http://www.ss-united-states.com/ .  He's got some wonderful pictures, =
both
before and after, and an incredible amount of information.

Cheers!
Kerrie


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Mabel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<STYLE></STYLE>

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<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#993399>Allo everyone!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft><FONT color=3D#993399>I posted this to the list =
earlier, but when=20
it arrived in my inbox the entire message was blank.&nbsp; If it didn't =
come in=20
that way for anyone else I apologise for the re-run but I thought I'd =
re-send it=20
just in case. =3D) </FONT></DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft><FONT color=3D#993399><BR>----- Original Message =
-----<BR>From:=20
Kevin &amp; Mara Riley &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:lindo@Radix.Net">lindo@Radix.Net</A>&gt;<BR>Sent: =
Wednesday,=20
December 08, 1999 9:22 AM<BR><BR>&gt; Ugh -- I hate to hear about people =
doing=20
that.&nbsp; We have so little respect<BR>&gt; for our sailing=20
heritage...<BR><BR>This is too true!&nbsp; Anyone in or near =
Philadelphia, who's=20
interested in such<BR>things, might like to know that the beautiful S.S. =
United=20
States is sitting<BR>forlornly at pier 82.<BR>Even though she's been =
stripped of=20
all her fittings, her paint is faded and<BR>she's all but covered in =
rust, she=20
is still one of the most breathtaking<BR>sights I've ever seen.&nbsp; We =
make it=20
a point to drive by the pier and "visit"<BR>whenever we go =
downtown.&nbsp;=20
=3D)<BR>There is an effort in motion to try to have this ship restored =
to her=20
old<BR>glory, please visit Mike Alexander's website at:<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.ss-united-states.com/">http://www.ss-united-states.com=
/</A>=20
.&nbsp; He's got some wonderful pictures, both<BR>before and after, and =
an=20
incredible amount of=20
information.<BR><BR>Cheers!<BR>Kerrie<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 13:52:19 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 15:12:36 -0500
From: Lola Lee <lola@his.com>
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-Poster: Lola Lee <lola@his.com>



> >  Crafts and skills from Eastern Europe and the Balkans will be featured
> >  at the upcoming Celebration 2000 conference, held at Tompkins Cortland
> >  Community college, May 12,13,14, 2000.
> >

Where is this community college?  State?  City?  I'd like to forward this to a
couple of religious email lists that I'm on.


--
Lola J. Lee
QRC

work  -  llee@qrc.com   http://www.qrc.com/
home  -  lola@his.com   http://www.his.com/~lola/ljl.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 13:55:20 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 12:05:23 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Oh, but this time it came through!  How odd!

Nevermind,
MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Kerrie Lyons[SMTP:kerrielyons@tellurian.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, December 08, 1999 11:40 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
> 
> Allo everyone!
> I posted this to the list earlier, but when it arrived in my inbox the
> entire message was blank.  If it didn't come in that way for anyone else I
> apologise for the re-run but I thought I'd re-send it just in case. =) 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kevin & Mara Riley < lindo@Radix.Net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 AM
> 
> > Ugh -- I hate to hear about people doing that.  We have so little
> respect
> > for our sailing heritage...
> 
> This is too true!  Anyone in or near Philadelphia, who's interested in
> such
> things, might like to know that the beautiful S.S. United States is
> sitting
> forlornly at pier 82.
> Even though she's been stripped of all her fittings, her paint is faded
> and
> she's all but covered in rust, she is still one of the most breathtaking
> sights I've ever seen.  We make it a point to drive by the pier and
> "visit"
> whenever we go downtown.  =)
> There is an effort in motion to try to have this ship restored to her old
> glory, please visit Mike Alexander's website at:
> http://www.ss-united-states.com/ .  He's got some wonderful pictures, both
> before and after, and an incredible amount of information.
> 
> Cheers!
> Kerrie
> 
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 13:56:17 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 12:04:32 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Kerrie, it's still all blank. :(

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Kerrie Lyons[SMTP:kerrielyons@tellurian.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, December 08, 1999 11:23 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
> 
> Mabel
> Allo everyone!
> I posted this to the list earlier, but when it arrived in my inbox the
> entire message was blank.  If it didn't come in that way for anyone else I
> apologise for the re-run but I thought I'd re-send it just in case. =) 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 9:22 AM
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 14:08:42 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: costume business
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 15:36:05 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF4191.F12D3B80
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I've been gone, but now I'm back with a new address.

I've been thinking about making my hobby a business and am curious to =
hear from others who have.  I'm mainly looking to hear from people who =
sell to SCA members and reenactors, not those who work in theater.
Are you glad you made the jump to professional?
Do you still enjoy sewing?
Do you sell to friends AND stranger?
Do you prefer one over the other?
Do you sell strictly on-line or strictly at events?
Do you have inventory or do you only sew when ordered?

Andrea

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF4191.F12D3B80
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've been gone, but now I'm back with a new=20
address.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've been thinking about making my hobby a business =
and am=20
curious to hear from others who have.&nbsp; I'm mainly looking to hear =
from=20
people who sell to SCA members and reenactors, not those who work in=20
theater.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Are you glad you made the jump to =
professional?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do you still enjoy sewing?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do you sell to friends AND stranger?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do you prefer one over the other?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do you sell strictly on-line or strictly at=20
events?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do you have inventory or do you only sew when=20
ordered?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF4191.F12D3B80--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 14:20:59 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: costume business
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 12:39:25 -0800 
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Andrea
 
I have sold costumes to both friends and strangers over the years, mostly
for reenacting, and I must say I always put more effort and in and make less
money on my friends, while strangers get exactly what they pay for.  I can
never seem to charge my friends enough money for something I love to do, and
often find it hard to charge them for more than the basic fashion fabric,
and end up eating the cost of lining, boning, trim, new patterns, etc. that
we all know makes up the "bulk" of most period costumes, not to mention the
cost of so many hours put in.  I too, would love to make my sole living
doing this, and may, someday.  I wish you all the good fortune in the world
in your endeavors!
 
Heidi
 
-----Original Message-----  
From: Andrea Gideon [mailto:ahgideon@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 12:36 PM
To: H-Costume
Subject: H-COST: costume business


I've been gone, but now I'm back with a new address.
 
I've been thinking about making my hobby a business and am curious to hear
from others who have.  I'm mainly looking to hear from people who sell to
SCA members and reenactors, not those who work in theater.
Are you glad you made the jump to professional?
Do you still enjoy sewing?
Do you sell to friends AND stranger?
Do you prefer one over the other?
Do you sell strictly on-line or strictly at events?
Do you have inventory or do you only sew when ordered?
 
Andrea
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 14:31:31 1999
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From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Fwd: Hands-On WOrkshops (fwd)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  > >  Crafts and skills from Eastern Europe and the Balkans will be
featured
>  > >  at the upcoming Celebration 2000 conference, held at Tompkins
Cortland
>  > >  Community college, May 12,13,14, 2000.
>  > >
>  
>  Where is this community college?  State?  City?  I'd like to forward this
to a
>  couple of religious email lists that I'm on.

I believe it's in New York, or thereabouts. The last paragraph mentions
something about that.

Kate

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://voicemail.excite.com 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 14:39:02 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

There is a section on "Costuming as A Business" on my website at
http://www.directcon.net/wander/main.htm which you may find helpful.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 14:52:15 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 12:31:39 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I feel guilty for steering this off topic, but please forgive me.

Kat wrote:

> I do know that red hair has been called that from fairly early in
> history.

Can you be sure? We do know of many nick names in many languages for people
with red hair, but was this the same as the term 'red hair' in the particular
language? (I'm sort of playing devil's advocate, because I don't know one way
or the other.)

> I come from a very red headed family (which is a recessessive
> gene but that didn't seem to make a difference in our family.)

Hair color (unlike eye color) is not controlled by only one gene. The gene for
red hair is not the same as the gene for blonde versus brunette. That's why
you can have a broad range of red hair tones from blondes with just a hint of
red through Raggedy Ann red and auburn to a dark brown with just a hint of red.

> Our family got its name (Russell) from the french for red in early
> medieval times.

There is a widespread misconception that names have or had a meaning. While
many of the words that became did have a meaning, once they are used as a
label for a person they quickly lose their meaning. 'Thomas' meant 'twin' in
Aramaic, but how many do you know that are given that name because they are
one of a set of twins?

Of course, it's possible that 'Russell' did come from a nickname for a red
head, but there are plenty of other possibilities. (For example, it could be
used for the ruddy complexion of someone that regularly worked the field...a
medieval 'red-neck', if you will.)

Sorry about wandering, but names and languages are a hobby. :-}

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:03:44 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Recycling clothing 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was  Slub, dyed 
	fur, differences in  fabric treatments
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:22:02 -0700 
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

<IMHO, we don't wear upholstery fabric now and they
didn't then.>

I guess one could argue that it is not technically upholstery fabric, but
subject book has several clothing items that were made from bedspreads.  It
doesn't seem much of a stretch to me that if they used bedspreads, drapes
and upholstery (especially all the silk ones) were not so far off.  Maybe
Scarlett's drapery dress wasn't so odd after all.




-----Original Message-----
From: Julie Adams [mailto:savaskan@sd.znet.com]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 11:06 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 'Fashion in Detail new book:' was Slub, dyed fur,
differences in fabric treatments



-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>I have a costume Nazi (I love Margo's snark term-where does it come from?)
>who insists that delicately woven, i.e. brocade, or patterned weaving (with
>different colors)wasn't possible between 1550-1600 because the 'machines
>didn't exist'.

Perhaps she suffers from Black and White book photo syndrome :-)  I believe
there are some descriptions and black and white photos of some very
detailed muli-colored brocades in the Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd. There
are additional descriptions in text. Also there are some examples in Five
Centuries of Italian Textiles, A Selection from the Museo del Tessuto Prato
1300-1800 (No ISBN) organized by Rosalia Bonito Fanelli 1981

One thing to be careful of is popularity and fashion in period, and just
because it was possible, doesn't mean a particular pattern or color
combination was worn as clothing. By the pictoral evidence I have, I would
say that 3 or more colored brocades in Europe became much more popular
after 1600, though there seemed to be a brief fad in the late 15th c Italy.
Early 16th c German costumes are usually single colored or two colored.
When they are two-toned, inevitably one of the colors is black,
white/silver, or orange/gold. Their clothing brocade choices seemed to tend
toward heraldic color mixtures in taste, yet background furniture textiles
are more often multicolored brocades. In the book Textiler Hausrat,
Kleidung un Haustextilien in Nurnberg von 1500-1600 by Zander-Seidel, there
are chapters devoted to house textiles. These were often woven specifically
for various household purposes or decoration and clearly had some popular
patterns and weaves.  IMHO, we don't wear upholstery fabric now and they
didn't then.

In general,  I admit I tend to steer people away from brocades, mostly
because it takes a lot of study, analysis and somewhat of a good eye to
pick out a "period" brocade.  Some of the ones I've seen people pick just
come out badly.  When I was costume director of a Landsknecht re-enacting
group, I always pleaded with people to get swatches before purchasing that
showed the whole pattern. I hate to see people spend time and effort into
something that is just not right. The funny thing is that some very
interesting patterns can be found in period brocades. Some are very modern
geometric looking.

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:20:12 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Diderot's Encyclopaedia is going on-line, and the banyan picture and pattern diagram is already up.  Gotta get home and see if I can dig up the URL, however, because the index to date is inadequate.  You can hunt and peck very happily through the images index, but not if you are in a hurry!  Diderot's was fist published in approximately 1766.  Banyans got more tailored towards the 3/4 mark in the century, but for mid-century, I think the Diderot's pattern is good.

Hope 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:32:19 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 1670s (was Restoration London)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 13:37:52 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Nicole sweetly said:

	>There you go, I put up more engravings into the 1670s section. 
> Including some hunting scenes, which means not the latest fashion 
> is depicted in them.
> 
Oh these are wonderful.  You are such a treasure, Nicole!  I want to bring
to everyone's notice, too, the neat little notes you've been attaching to
the artwork in your galleries.  It's nice to have someone tell me what I'm
looking at, especially when the material is new to me.

> > is grand!  The current story is set in '75 (and actually in the
> Caribbean,
> > where it's such a pain sifting good material from bad pyrates), but it's
> 
	>It's a safe bet to look at English or French fashion and
extrapolate 
> from there. Plus, what came out to be very true is the following: 
> lower/working class costume is always 'old fashioned' in the sense 
> of 'keeping one's best clothing for many years'. Thus if you describe 
> 1660s clothing for the 1670s, it wouldn't be wrong. Of course it was 
> impossible for the people to be dressed according to the latest 
> fashion. 
At tbe beginning of the book, the heroine has just returned to Jamaica from
Paris, so she'll have some of whatever was the latest thing, but she spends
very little time in that sort of company :)  There are only two occasions
for high fashion: once at the beginning and once at the end. In between,
these hunstmen and milkmaids and so on give me just the cues I was looking
for.  

	>Have you actually read Pepys? 

Some of it, and sometimes he's wonderfully detailed and sometimes
maddeningly the opposite. The next book in the series will be back in
England (though not mainly in the metropolis) so I guess I'll have to give
him another go.


Great work!


> MaggiRos
> 
> http://ren.dm.net
> 
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:35:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 16:51:55 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Sorry, the Diderot's seems to be restricted now to subscribers.  Alternatively, see this banyan pattern for sale: http://www.longago.com/colonial.html It is appropraite for mid-century.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:40:52 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 12:45:09 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity Enforcers)])
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

 and some lapdogs were very much indulged, but this
>wasn't the norm. 

I read that lapdogs were very popular, among the non-working classes,
because their body temperature was warmer than that of humans.  I see a lot
of small dogs in Late Medieval portraits, and this seems to bear me out
here.  BTW, look for a web page about Bishon Frise dogs (spelling?) for
many many Medieval portraits with these dogs in them. 


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:40:54 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 13:15:01 -0800
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From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Several replies in one post:

>> How about 'admired them enough to try to recreate them'?  I will take
>> the word of a dyer on the possibility/probability of those colours,
>> but I won't believe neon colours are possible with natural dyestuff
>> till then.
>
>I haven't done natural dying since Girl Scout camp but I seem to recall
>making something that came out pretty neon... and the ancient Bruce
>tartan *screams* with neon orange & green.

Then there's 'loud McLeod'. 

* * *

>(All my fathers pinks are white!)

My grandmother's were all pinkish.

>When a batch of natural dyestuffs failed to arrive for a local class I was 
>teaching--we played with the herbs in my garden and the spices in my rack. 
>When the contents of my spice rack produced a most wonderous shade of neon 
>fuschia pink , I too, was convinced that earlier folks must have enjoyed it, 
>too!! 

Turmeric gives a bright yellow, but isn't lightfast. 

* * *

>I have several "color wheel" samples of wool dyed in pre-1600 dyes & 
>mordants. There is a lovely pink dyed with cochineal mordanted with tin ( or 
>dyed in a tin pot). Medieval illuminations (like the Tres Riches Heures) show 
>pink garments next to red ones, so pink was NOT a red that faded, like some 
>have argued. 

Not to disagree with you, but I think both kinds of pink must have been in
use at the same time.  My guess is that the presence of real pink-dyed
garments made the faded-red kind more desirable to the lower classes, who
had to wear the faded stuff anyway till it wore out.  BTW, one can actually
get away with some pinks at Ren. Faire (N.CA) if they look like faded reds
- faded-red-now-pinkish must be period if non-faded-red is.  

* * *

>I think what this whole discussion boils down to is that: 
>1. even when they could get the color, it wasn't necessarily used. 
>Our modern aethetics doesn't match what they would have liked and 
>what they liked changed from year to year (sometimes regulated by the 
>guilds so that even if you liked it, it wouldn't have been 
>available.) Also even if *you* liked it, you wouldn't be caught dead 
>wearing it because we can get away with individuality now in a way 
>that didn't happen in most other period in Europe.

My guess is that embroidererd could get away with a greater range of
colours they liked than clothes wearers.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:41:40 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 12/8/1999 13:54:15 Pacific Standard Time, Hhdunlap@aol.com 
writes:

<< Sorry, the Diderot's seems to be restricted now to subscribers.  
Alternatively, see this banyan pattern for sale: 
http://www.longago.com/colonial.html It is appropraite for mid-century.
 
 Hope >>

Hope, would you mind posting subscription information for the Diderot? Or is 
it something that is associated solely with you ISP provider?

thanks,

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,  and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here, while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 15:55:41 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity Enforcers)]
	)
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:02:45 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

The animals in portraits are often emblematic rather than literal.  Ok, the
dogs could also be pets, I suppose, but they're in the picture to represent
something, I think it's fidelity.  

Charles II, on the other hand, just loved his dogs and they really were
pets, not the working dogs of farms and family homes.

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Carolyn Kayta Barrows[SMTP:kayta@slip.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Monday, December 06, 1999 12:45 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity
> Enforcers)])
> 
> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
>  and some lapdogs were very much indulged, but this
> >wasn't the norm. 
> 
> I read that lapdogs were very popular, among the non-working classes,
> because their body temperature was warmer than that of humans.  I see a
> lot
> of small dogs in Late Medieval portraits, and this seems to bear me out
> here.  BTW, look for a web page about Bishon Frise dogs (spelling?) for
> many many Medieval portraits with these dogs in them. 
> 
> 
> Kayta
>      ////.\\\
>     ////-@@\\\
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> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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> 
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 17:43:24 -0500
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!

>Barnes and Noble lists as available in 1-2 weeks.  $28.00


Well, I'm guessing that was based in it being easily available from Boydell
& Brewer.  I ordered a copy from them over two weeks ago and it hasn't shown
up yet.

Susan

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 16:43:51 1999
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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> 
> Can anyone point me to pictures on the web, or instructions, for a man's
> dressing gown from the mid-1700s?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mara
> 
>  
There is an excellent account of making a banyan in the Uk's costume
society journal can't remember offhand which, but the pattern in cut of
men's clothes is the same one.
I made a copy of it and it works very well

Dawn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 16:50:17 1999
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

I'd be careful with Rockinghorse Farm patterns. The patterns seem to be sort 
of period, but the directions are incomplete and obscure. Good luck if you 
use one.

Kathleen Norvell
"How many costumes do you think I can pack?"
-- "Start the Revolution without Me"
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 16:57:39 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Very OT Historical Ships (was- Ships/IWTV)
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

Thanks for the reference, Kerrie!  Are you familiar with the Godzilla -- er, I
mean, the Gazella, whose home port is also Philly?

-- Mara

At 02:40 PM 12/8/99 -0500, you wrote: 

>
> This is too true!  Anyone in or near Philadelphia, who's interested in such
> things, might like to know that the beautiful S.S. United States is sitting
> forlornly at pier 82.
> Even though she's been stripped of all her fittings, her paint is faded and
> she's all but covered in rust, she is still one of the most breathtaking
> sights I've ever seen.  We make it a point to drive by the pier and "visit"
> whenever we go downtown.  =)
> There is an effort in motion to try to have this ship restored to her old
> glory, please visit Mike Alexander's website at:
> <http://www.ss-united-states.com/>http://www.ss-united-states.com/ . 
He's got
> some wonderful pictures, both
> before and after, and an incredible amount of information.
>
> Cheers!
> Kerrie





Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 17:19:05 1999
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

In a message dated 12/5/99 10:55:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, kdyer@home.com 
writes:

<< My children always
 wear a t-tunic or dress, tights and either boots, the most period
 looking maryjanes I can find, sandals or medieval moccasins.  The latter
 are quite economical because the children can wear them for several
 years.. >>

If you make them somewhat bigger than the child's feet, they can wear them 
OVER the sneakers. A friend of mine did this for her son, who would not part 
with his modern sneakers even fro reenacting. So she made him a pair of 
pampooties (Highland hide shoes) big enough to go over his shoes. The kid 
looked like a cartoon character with big feet, but everyone was happy.

Kathleen Norvell
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>-Poster: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>
>
>Just a thought, but is the 'problem with pink' more to do with terminology
>rather than wether the colour existed?

Not in the context we were talking about, which was Modern costume
directors not allowing Pink for theatrical reasons, and having it evolve
into "pink is not period".

Julie Adams


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From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity Enforcers)]
 	)
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>The animals in portraits are often emblematic rather than literal.  Ok, the
>dogs could also be pets, I suppose, but they're in the picture to represent
>something, I think it's fidelity.
>
>Charles II, on the other hand, just loved his dogs and they really were
>pets, not the working dogs of farms and family homes.

There are a lot of dogs in German woodcuts. And some of them seem to be
pets of poor people, like the campfollowers carrying their little dog and
the other dogs just hanging out with the baggage train. They are shown in
peasant holiday scenes too.  There are quite a few little Lion dogs, maybe
precursors of poodles, tiny dogs with a lion haircut that some people are
trying to recreate now.  There are quite a few dogs shown in feast scenes
too.  Now these were probably hunting dogs for the most part, but that
doen't mean they wouldn't be pets too.  Is this related to costuming? I
dunno, I always considered my Anatolian Shepherd dogs to be great
accessories... especially for Turkish clothes...(but they look more like
pre-16th c mastiffs than the modern "Englis" Mastiffs).

Julie Adams


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 18:44:10 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Of course, it's possible that 'Russell' did come from a nickname for a red
> head, but there are plenty of other possibilities. (For example, it could be
> used for the ruddy complexion of someone that regularly worked the field...a
> medieval 'red-neck', if you will.)

There are, in our family records (which go back quite a ways, 
definitely to the medieval times) quotes about the hair of the 
members of the family and its various names for the red hair.

While I can't say anything about others being called "red", I do know 
that in my family, it meant, specifically, red haired. (In fact, the 
family members all seem to have red hair or red undertones. You 
should see our family reunions!)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 20:22:38 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
Date: Thu, 09 Dec 99 02:45:52 GMT
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-Poster: trekona@erols.com


Hi,
> Can you be sure? We do know of many nick names in many languages for people
> with red hair, but was this the same as the term 'red hair' in the particular
> language? (I'm sort of playing devil's advocate, because I don't know one way
> or the other.)
    I'm not saying that there's necessarily a connection... but among cat 
circles, the proper term for an orange colored cat is 'Red' (just as a gray 
color is properly termed blue). Interesting coincidence, though.

> > Our family got its name (Russell) from the french for red in early
> > medieval times.
> There is a widespread misconception that names have or had a meaning. While
> many of the words that became did have a meaning, once they are used as a
> label for a person they quickly lose their meaning. 'Thomas' meant 'twin' in
> Aramaic, but how many do you know that are given that name because they are
> one of a set of twins?
    uh... actually that's why my husband's name is Thomas, his mother thought 
it was cute. His brother was named for Stephen Foster, though. However this is 
an unusual situation. Most 'Thomas's are not necessarily a twin!

    -Judy Mitchell

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec  8 20:58:50 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 19:12:57 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: bees
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

        Vielen schoenen Dank!  I was a Dts. major many, many years ago...I
could use the practice though...Carol
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 01:34:48 1999
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-Poster: Linda Thompson <lthompsn@sound.net>

Andrea, I have been doing costuming as a business for 6 years now.  For
the previous 20 years I had been doing it for free for friends/family
around Halloween or special events.  The first 3 years I reported a
loss, due to: poor pricing, doing favors and purchasing equipment, and
remodeling my basement into a studio.  The past 3 I have reported
income.  Each year is a little better as I become a better business
person.  The most important lesson to learn is while you might be a
fantastic seamstress/tailor, you will only succeed financially if you
learn to be a fantastic business manager also.  This means you need to
seriously look at how long it takes to do something and price it
according to how much you want to make an hour (above and beyond the
costs for supplies).  And stick to it.  NO EXCEPTIONS.  (I don't charge
my family for stuff obviously, but they do not get items sewn as quickly
either)
Before I learned that lesson, while I enjoyed the actual sewing of the
items, I certainly felt under-appreciated and under-paid.  I realized
that if I did not value my work enough to charge a decent price for it,
how could I expect others to?
I would definetly read Margo's information, it is well written and
informative.  Then I suggest you go to the library and check out books
on how to succeed at small business.  While they may not all apply to
your particular circumstance there will be some hard and fast rules that
apply to every business.
And I never do sewing favors for friends.  Don't get me wrong, I love
and value my friends, but once they become a client (paying or not) the
relationship changes somehow.  I have swapped favors with friends, some
kind of fair trade... I made a set of undergarments
(corset/bloomers/chemise), and got my bathroom scrubbed from ceiling to
floor.  We both were thrilled at the outcome.
Now for your questions:
I really still enjoy sewing.
I sell to everyone who is willing to pay a fair price.
I primarily do costuming for Renaissance Events, and a few special needs
clients.
I sew as I'm commissioned.
And am getting geared up for doing somethings online in the future.

Linda
I love it when our renfair ends, I get a life again for a few months and
get caught up on the list!!!!     YAY
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 03:04:00 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:08:17 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

 We do know of many nick names in many languages for people
> > with red hair, but was this the same as the term 'red hair' in the
particular
> > language? (I'm sort of playing devil's advocate, because I don't know
one way
> > or the other.)

...in Australia, a red haired person is often called Blue or Bluey

By the way, anyone noticed the way this posting title is changing...red
hair was pink? Hmm.

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:17:48 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:36:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
In-Reply-To: <0.6132b77.25802cfb@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Thanks!  That helps.  Has anyone used Rocking Horse Farm patterns?  What's
that web site that has pattern reviews?

Cheers,
Mara


On Wed, 8 Dec 1999 Hhdunlap@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com
> 
> Sorry, the Diderot's seems to be restricted now to subscribers.  Alternatively, see this banyan pattern for sale: http://www.longago.com/colonial.html It is appropraite for mid-century.
> 
> Hope
>  _________________________________________________________________
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> 

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:46:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19991206123101.00a25e00@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Mon, 6 Dec 1999, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:> 
> >I haven't done natural dying since Girl Scout camp but I seem to recall
> >making something that came out pretty neon... and the ancient Bruce
> >tartan *screams* with neon orange & green.
> 
> Then there's 'loud McLeod'. 

Um... are either of these based on actual tartans from before they were
outlawed (following the 1745 uprising), or were these some of the many
that were invented during the Victorian era, when tartans became all the
rage?

'Clan Tartans' are a common misconception -- if you look at the portraits
of Higland nobility from the 17th/18th centuries, you'll often see them
wearing multiple patterns of tartan at once, and in wildly conflicting
patterns (the predecessor of tacky golf clothing, I guess!).  There is one
mention of a particular lord having his attendants dressed in tartan woven
from particular colors, but a sett (pattern) is not mentioned, so this
isn't much different from an English lord clothing his staff in a
particular set of colors for their livery.  There are no mentions of 'Clan
Tartans' before the Victorian era.  And there are very few tartans that
are actually based on pre-1745 patterns.

Martin Martin, I believe, remarks that one could make a good guess at what
area someone came from based on the pattern of their plaid; but that's
different from having clan tartans.  All that means is that weavers in a
particular area tended to turn out patterns of a certain type, and weavers
in the next glen wove patterns that were a little different.

Cheers,
Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:29:56 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:48:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
In-Reply-To: <384F583C.3A02@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Which one from 'Cut of Men's Clothes'?  There's one that is more tailored,
and then the other seems less structured...  can I assume that the
less-structured one is earlier, and the more-tailored one is later?

Mara


On Wed, 8 Dec 1999, Dawn wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> 
> Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> > 
> > -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> > 
> > Can anyone point me to pictures on the web, or instructions, for a man's
> > dressing gown from the mid-1700s?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Mara
> > 
> >  
> There is an excellent account of making a banyan in the Uk's costume
> society journal can't remember offhand which, but the pattern in cut of
> men's clothes is the same one.
> I made a copy of it and it works very well
> 
> Dawn
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:31:04 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:49:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Thanks for the warning.  Maybe I'd be better off drafting one from Norah
Waugh's book :D

Hey, that's what muslins are for, right?

Mara


On Wed, 8 Dec 1999 Appin1@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Appin1@aol.com
> 
> I'd be careful with Rockinghorse Farm patterns. The patterns seem to be sort 
> of period, but the directions are incomplete and obscure. Good luck if you 
> use one.
> 
> Kathleen Norvell
> "How many costumes do you think I can pack?"
> -- "Start the Revolution without Me"
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:59:39 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



WOW!!!! Someone in the last couple of days posted about velvet available at 
Phoenix Textiles. The url she (?) posted didn't work for me, but I did find 
it and I am astonished! I can't believe these prices!!! I am so mad that I 
read that post today -- the day after their no shipping charges sale!!! 
Anyway, that poster was happy with her order. If anyone else has done 
business with them, would you please post me privately and let me know?

Gail Finke
gaelscot@aol.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:50:03 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:07:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: Costume List <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Hey, folks, 
I recently went to the following web site, which has an unfortunate
attempt at what the seamstress calls a Highland Gown:

http://www.chickpages.com/fashionpassion/ralphie9/index.html

(The profile is all wrong, for one thing, and I could go on, and on, and
on...)

Anyhow, I sent a note to the person inquiring as to her source for a few
of the drawings she used (or thinks she used) for references.  She cites
the following:

>   Those pics were from The Historical Encyclopedia of Costumes by Albert
> Racinet.  It is an excellent resource book for all types of period and
> ethnic dress.

Just to satisfy my own curiosity, can anyone tell me when this book was
published?  The drawings look Victorian to me; they might have been lifted
from another source that I'm drawing a blank on at this time.

Cheers,
Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:50:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:08:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

Well, what IS the URL, then? (grin)



On Thu, 9 Dec 1999 Gaelscot@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
> 
> 
> 
> WOW!!!! Someone in the last couple of days posted about velvet available at 
> Phoenix Textiles. The url she (?) posted didn't work for me, but I did find 
> it and I am astonished! I can't believe these prices!!! I am so mad that I 
> read that post today -- the day after their no shipping charges sale!!! 
> Anyway, that poster was happy with her order. If anyone else has done 
> business with them, would you please post me privately and let me know?
> 
> Gail Finke
> gaelscot@aol.com
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:51:31 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:08:40 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: the color pink
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I admit, I am completely clueless when it comes to color. I'm sorry that 
there doesn't seem to be an accessible, easily understood resource about what 
colors were popular (and available!) when. It's too bad that theatrical 
decisions get taken as authoritative statements about what was or wasn't done 
when -- but it seems to me that the argument "well, they could have done it, 
so someone must have" is equally specious. Lots of colors are possible today, 
but not used, and we seem to have much more of an "anything goes" attitude 
about color in clothes.

So someone COULD have produced a particular color with plants in the area. 
But how often would that person have been dying fabric, and what other colors 
might he/she have chosen to make? How much cloth did a person dye and how 
much did he buy already dyed or made up? How many colors did a merchant dye a 
year -- lots, or just a few? Would a "typical" person (if there is any such 
thing) have spent a lot of money to get a few expensive and perhaps 
hard-to-dye things, or have gotten more, less expensive things? We see both 
kinds of behavior today.

My point is that color is a complicated issue, and blanket statements just 
won't work. If I were worried about historical accuracy, I would stick to 
extant garments and try to copy them. I do earlier periods where there are no 
extant garments, and even the artwork (illuminations) can't be considered 
accurate depictions of colors. So I don't worry about it, except to steer 
clear of things available only in modern dyes. That's my solution and it 
won't work for everyone. Someday it may not work for me, either!

Gail Finke


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 07:55:26 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:12:41 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

www.phoenixtextiles.com 

or to reach BOTH of their sites

www.fabric.com

Katrin
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 08:02:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 08:21:22 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

I've bought quite a few things from Phoenix, and am a very satisfied 
customer. Can't beat those prices. But you have to check frequently to see 
what they have, as their stock varies all the time. If you sign up for it, 
they will e-mail you when new fabric arrives.

Kim


At 08:59 AM 12/09/1999 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>
>
>WOW!!!! Someone in the last couple of days posted about velvet available at
>Phoenix Textiles. The url she (?) posted didn't work for me, but I did find
>it and I am astonished! I can't believe these prices!!! I am so mad that I
>read that post today -- the day after their no shipping charges sale!!!
>Anyway, that poster was happy with her order. If anyone else has done
>business with them, would you please post me privately and let me know?
>
>Gail Finke
>gaelscot@aol.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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-Poster: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>

My so (3 1/2) bought himself (his choice with his mad money) a pair of
Godzilla slippers - furry with claws -  that are fairly good interpretations
of the Henrician broad toe shoe with slashes.  The claws come accross as puffs.

mm
 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 08:53:54 1999
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

http://www.lib.uchicago.edu/efts/ARTFL/projects/encyc/

is the URL for the on-line Diderot project.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 09:03:26 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I tried http://www.fabric.com and got a DNS error... but the
http://www.phoenixtextiles.com worked for me yesterday... odd.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 10:26:52 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> I recently went to the following web site, which has an unfortunate
> attempt at what the seamstress calls a Highland Gown:

Just a thought.  How do you know that she isn't on this list?  Personally, I
would be very careful before posting a comment like this to a public forum.
We can't educate if someone's feelings are terribly hurt.

FWIW,
Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 10:43:55 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/08/1999 4:56:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Hhdunlap@aol.com writes:

<< http://www.longago.com/colonial.html  >>

Well, all I can say is I hope it makes up better than it looks in the 
illustration. [Why doesn't he have a head???]
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 12:19:41 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 10:27:43 -0800 
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I've noticed that in Britain red-haired people are sometimes called Ginger.
Red for red hair doesn't seem to be entirely inevitable.

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Christopher Ballis[SMTP:stilskin@netspace.net.au]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Thursday, December 09, 1999 1:08 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Red Hair [was Re: Pink]
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
> 
>  We do know of many nick names in many languages for people
> > > with red hair, but was this the same as the term 'red hair' in the
> particular
> > > language? (I'm sort of playing devil's advocate, because I don't know
> one way
> > > or the other.)
> 
> ...in Australia, a red haired person is often called Blue or Bluey
> 
> By the way, anyone noticed the way this posting title is changing...red
> hair was pink? Hmm.
> 
> -C.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 12:27:28 1999
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From: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 12:37:38 -0600
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-Poster: "Diane M. Mathews" <camelothorse@earthlink.net>

This is not my particular time period nor geographic area ( I attempt to do
late tudor ) but, I did not find fault with what this costumer was trying to
do. Up front, she states that the customer wanted something different than
what " correct " Highland attire would have been and states why.  This
costumer also states that this is not " period correct " and it is a "
costume " for fun rather than a reinactment gown.  As long as both the
parties understand what the changes are and why then I do not see a problem
with modifications and liberties.  I myself have a couple of " costumes "
that I would not wear to an SCA event but have a lot of FUN with at parties
and I do not have to worry about my detailed and expensive court gowns being
spoiled.  Like I said---I do NOT know ANYTHING about Highland attire but
felt this person openly admitted that this was not what she would have
called " Period Correct ".

Guinevere
----- Original Message -----
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)


>
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
> > I recently went to the following web site, which has an unfortunate
> > attempt at what the seamstress calls a Highland Gown:
>
> Just a thought.  How do you know that she isn't on this list?  Personally,
I
> would be very careful before posting a comment like this to a public
forum.
> We can't educate if someone's feelings are terribly hurt.
>
> FWIW,
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 13:31:42 1999
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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I agree that the posting was unfortunately worded.  The gown in question is
pretty and appears to be very well made.  It also fulfills its basic
purpose, as the maker states on the website:

  >I feel like the dress was a reasonable hybrid of the simplicity of shape
that the Highland gowns had, while incorporating Nancy's wishes for
something more frivolous and feminine, without going over the top
>
>
Her client wanted a pretty and dramatic 18th century inspired gown to wear
to a Highland Games.  she didn't ask for a meticulous historical
reproduction, and there was no reason to make one.  It would have been nice
if the page had been titled " Highland Inpired Gown",  but that's quibbling.
The content of the page makes it quite clear what the goal was.


Now, as to the actual question in the original post, yes,  Racinet was
Victorian (1840's I believe) and, like most costume infomation of the time,
is not a terribly good source.  It is, however, widely available in
libraries and bookstores, which accounts for its use by so many people.  

Margo Anderson


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To: lindo@Radix.Net, h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Speaking of Tartans, My brother-in-law checked on the Dallas tartan a
few years ago at the New Hampshire games, and got a print-out of a blue,
pink, and green regular plaid.  When he got a kilt made this year from
that same Scottish textile manufacturer, it came as a lt. brown based,
irregular plaid.  Since he's a bit wide, and the stronger color stripe
is side to side, it's not very flattering.  Have you heard that there
are clan tartans that are irregular plaids, especially with a paler
cross stripe?  I think the manufacturer goofed.
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston,MA area, USA
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 13:33:05 1999
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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:37:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: posting URLs
To: SCA-Arts list <SCA-ARTS@raven.cc.ukans.edu>,
        SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,
        Historic Needlework <h-needlework@ansteorra.org>,
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Please, if you are posting a URL (for us lazy people),
can you type the WHOLE address, i.e. "http://..." 
etc?  Thanks, it makes it esier to link to!

Morgaine

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 13:33:21 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.SV4.3.96.991209090058.6917I-100000@saltmine.radix.net> <384FDBCD.9B0FFB17@serv.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 16:54:59 -0000
Organization: Heritage Matters at Wysewords
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>



To quote>
 > > I recently went to the following web site, which has an unfortunate
> > attempt at what the seamstress calls a Highland Gown:
 > Just a thought.  How do you know that she isn't on this list?  Personally,
I
> would be very careful before posting a comment like this to a public forum.
> We can't educate if someone's feelings are terribly hurt.
  > Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir

I agree , but on the other hand -how refreshing to be directed to a site where
the owner has taken such trouble to explain how things came about; what was
done and why  and all in a non patronising way.

 Top Marks I say.
(Whos bothered about a profile i- its on a dummy with a single light --take a
closer look)
Dave


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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 09:35:51 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Gail Finke <Gaelscot@aol.com> wrote:
>WOW!!!! Someone in the last couple of days posted about velvet available at
>Phoenix Textiles. The url she (?) posted didn't work for me, but I did find
>it and I am astonished! I can't believe these prices!!! I am so mad that I
>read that post today -- the day after their no shipping charges sale!!!
>Anyway, that poster was happy with her order. If anyone else has done
>business with them, would you please post me privately and let me know?

I ordered some "burnt orange hemp cloth", because i was curious about 
hemp cloth and the price was right :-) (it was only $1US per yard)

Then i ordered several other fabrics, all linens at around $1US, or a 
tad more, per yard. My total was around 24 yards of fabric for around 
$26.

Did this all on the web site. Got e-mail confirmation of receipt of 
my order, then a more personal e-mail saying approximately when it 
would be sent, then an e-mail on the day it was shipped via UPS with 
the tracking number. And it arrived when it should have.

This is my only experience, but it was certainly satisfactory. And i 
would consider buying from them again.

Lilinah

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity Enforcers)])
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:31:17 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi,

Kayta wrote:
> I read that lapdogs were very popular, among the non-working classes,
> because their body temperature was warmer than that of humans.  I see a
lot
> of small dogs in Late Medieval portraits, and this seems to bear me out
> here.  BTW, look for a web page about Bishon Frise dogs (spelling?) for
> many many Medieval portraits with these dogs in them.

They weren't called lapdogs for nothing... Remember: most portraits were of
well-to-do to rich people, who had the leisure to care for lap dogs. Common
to poor people had no time for feeding extra mouths and if a dog was kept
for hunting rabbits or guarding the farm it was fed on scraps if they had
any (most farmers did...) or had to fend (in the case of hunting dogs, of
course) for itself.

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 13:38:29 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991207015017.16032I-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New book
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:53:27 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi all,

Robin wrote:
> I don't read Italian, but someone out there may be interested in this new
> book:
>
> Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli, Guardaroba medievale:  vesti e societa dal
> 13. al 16. secolo (Bologna:  Il mulino, 1999).
>
> I know nothing about this other than the rather promising title. (I have a
> librarian friend who lets me know about any medieval costume publications
> he happens to spot.)

No bookshop or library on the web has heard yet of this book, but if you get
to know more, please Robin, keep me posted.

Henk

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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <5B38B8D7EED8D211997F00A0C9E57FB91DB6A4@HP-LH3>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lap dogs 
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:45:35 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>


Hi,

Maggi wrote:
> The animals in portraits are often emblematic rather than literal.  Ok,
the
> dogs could also be pets, I suppose, but they're in the picture to
represent
> something, I think it's fidelity.

What came first the fidelity of the loved dog of somebody or the dog as
symbol of fidelity in a painting. Most of the stuff art-hysterians write or
say about medieval or renaissance painting sounds as so much balderdash to
me. I can't number the older A-H's, including B. Berenson, who have fallen
from grace when people started doing real historical research into the lives
and worlds of the painters.
>
> Charles II, on the other hand, just loved his dogs and they really were
> pets, not the working dogs of farms and family homes.

As everybody knows Charles II is way later than the Middle Ages, but
wouldn't his dogs appear in his portraits because he loved them (and gave
them his name) than because they stood for fidelity? Incidentally, working
dogs can also be loved and were.

Henk


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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 02:47 PM 12/9/99 -0500, Janice Dallas wrote:
>
>-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
>
>Speaking of Tartans, My brother-in-law checked on the Dallas tartan a
>few years ago at the New Hampshire games, and got a print-out of a blue,
>pink, and green regular plaid.  When he got a kilt made this year from
>that same Scottish textile manufacturer, it came as a lt. brown based,
>irregular plaid.  Since he's a bit wide, and the stronger color stripe
>is side to side, it's not very flattering.  Have you heard that there
>are clan tartans that are irregular plaids, especially with a paler
>cross stripe?  I think the manufacturer goofed.
>-- 
>Janice Dallas
>Boston,MA area, USA
>JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
>"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."

Janice,

There are irregular plaids in the "clan tartans" lists, though most of the
patterns are regular. But it does sound like there is a problem. I would let
them know about your bother-in-law's dissatisfaction with the kilt as delivered.

I have my copy of The Scottish Lion catalog, but there is no listing for a
Dallas tartan (does not mean there isn't one, just that they do not carry
it). They are on the web at http://www.scottishlion.com.

I hope you can get a satisfactory replacement from the manufacturer.

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 15:02:10 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> Um... are either of these based on actual tartans from before they
> were outlawed (following the 1745 uprising), or were these some of the
> many that were invented during the Victorian era, when tartans became
> all the rage?

Quoted from Scottish Lion (all emphasis mine):
>The tartans represented here have been scanned from actual cloth
> scarves. The colors are representative as different weavers use their
> own eye and judgement to determine what color of light blue is "light"
> etc. and, for the most part, the colors shown here are somewhat
> **subdued**.<snip part about obtaining swatches>
>Modern colors are strong, vivid colors made possible by today's
> chemical dyes.
> **Ancient or old colors duplicate the shades produced by weavers in
>the old days when dyes were made from vegetables, herbs and berries.** 
> Weathered colors or reproduction colors or muted colors approximate
> the appearance of tartan cloth dyed with the old organic dyes and then
> faded by years of highland weather.
>                     Bruce Ancient

You can't see it as well in the photo which is very muted but my dh has
a tie of the Ancient Bruce and it's NEON... and every other tartan I've
seen noted as Ancient Bruce is JUST as neon.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 14:56:14 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 21:34:19 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

No ther is only one on page 83 xxx111 dated 1750.
They are built like the coats of the period and can be rather elaborate

Dawn
> Which one from 'Cut of Men's Clothes'?  There's one that is more tailored,
> and then the other seems less structured...  can I assume that the
> less-structured one is earlier, and the more-tailored one is later?
> 
> Mara
> 
> On Wed, 8 Dec 1999, Dawn wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > >
> > There is an excellent account of making a banyan in the Uk's costume
> > society journal can't remember offhand which, but the pattern in cut of
> > men's clothes is the same one.
> > I made a copy of it and it works very well
> >
> > Dawn
> >
> >

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 14:58:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 21:30:12 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Kevin & Mara Riley wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
> 
> On Mon, 6 Dec 1999, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:>
> > >I haven't done natural dying since Girl Scout camp but I seem to recall
> > >making something that came out pretty neon... and the ancient Bruce
> > >tartan *screams* with neon orange & green.
> >
> > Then there's 'loud McLeod'.
> 
> Um... are either of these based on actual tartans from before they were
> outlawed (following the 1745 uprising), or were these some of the many
> that were invented during the Victorian era, when tartans became all the
> rage?
> 
> 'Clan Tartans' are a common misconception -- if you look at the portraits
> of Higland nobility from the 17th/18th centuries, you'll often see them
> wearing multiple patterns of tartan at once, and in wildly conflicting
> patterns (the predecessor of tacky golf clothing, I guess!).  There is one
> mention of a particular lord having his attendants dressed in tartan woven
> from particular colors, but a sett (pattern) is not mentioned, so this
> isn't much different from an English lord clothing his staff in a
> particular set of colors for their livery.  There are no mentions of 'Clan
> Tartans' before the Victorian era.  And there are very few tartans that
> are actually based on pre-1745 patterns.
> 
> Martin Martin, I believe, remarks that one could make a good guess at what
> area someone came from based on the pattern of their plaid; but that's
> different from having clan tartans.  All that means is that weavers in a
> particular area tended to turn out patterns of a certain type, and weavers
> in the next glen wove patterns that were a little different.
> 
> Cheers,
> Mara
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
I agree. My society re-enactes the Jacobite rebellion in the Uk.
It is now recognised that the 'tartans' are local weaves and dyes just
as in most countries. these just happen to be of stripes and checks
which were popular 18thc fabric designs anyway, Tartans as we know them
are a victorian idea.
Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 15:50:37 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

I have also worked with a company called Fabrics Unlimited.  They have very 
nice fabric and good service.  Their url is:  http://www.fabricsunlimited.net/
They are out of Texas.  They have sales through out the year, sometimes the 
same days as Phoenix Textiles.  They have a variety of fabrics and all that I 
have ordered from them have been good quaility fabric.  I have been nothing 
but pleased with them.
They also take credit cards.  Not to tempt anyone further to spend money.  LOL
Kelly 
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 15:55:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 14:37:54 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: if they'd had it they'd have used it???
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

If they'd had soap they'd have used it.  Well, they did have soap, but they
don't seem to have used it for keeping their hands clean.  Until the germ
theory was firmly established, the practice of using of soap on hands
wasn't as common as it is today (to say the least).  

The Moslems traditionally use only their right hand for dealing with food
at meals, because their left hand is used for dealing with the other end of
the digestion process.  

Childbed fever was still prevalent in the 1800's because doctors didn't
wash their hands between the dissecting room and the delivery room.  Dr.
Semmelweiss was in disagreement with his learned colleagues for suggesting
a connexion between one and the other.  His students complained about
having to do the washing he insisted on, till the death statistics began to
weigh in favour of his assertion.  I think this was in the 1880's, but I'm
not sure.

If they'd had libidos they'd have used them.  This is probably true for
men, but hardly true for most women thru most of history.  (I just watched
'Dangerous Beauty' again.) 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 15:56:22 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 14:37:47 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity
  Enforcers)])
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>The animals in portraits are often emblematic rather than literal.  Ok, the
>dogs could also be pets, I suppose, but they're in the picture to represent
>something, I think it's fidelity. 

The dogs portrayed in the pictures on that web page don't look like any
working breed I ever saw.  And they all seem to be the same breed (whatever
that is), and small enough to fit on a lap.  Makes me wonder.  OTOH, you
might go to the web site (sorry, no url to give you) to see if they all
look emblematic to you.  Having been there, I think they look like pets. 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 17:06:43 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Did you note what it was from the spice rack that produced the neon pink?  Sounds like fun.  The neon pink shows up in so many old paintings, that I'm convinced they had it too.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 17:18:59 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/09/1999 2:53:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
lilinah@grin.net writes:

<< I ordered some "burnt orange hemp cloth", because i was curious about 
 hemp cloth and the price was right :-) >>

Did that also come in Panama Red? Alcopoco Gold? Don't get arrested burning a 
piece to see if it's natural! 

Seriously...what WAS it like and did you use it for anything historic? 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 18:12:46 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #843
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

In a message dated 12/9/99 10:24:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
owner-h-costume-digest@indra.com writes:

<< From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
 Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 08:36:27 -0500 (EST)
 Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
 
 - -Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
 
 Thanks!  That helps.  Has anyone used Rocking Horse Farm patterns?  What's
 that web site that has pattern reviews?
 
 Cheers,
 Mara >>

I can't speak for any of their patterns other than the Houppeland.  It sucks. 
 There is not *nearly* enough fabric in the body of the garment and the 
sleeves are horribly wrong.  Actually, the pattern I have .... if you cut the 
sleeve pieces exactly to pattern, they don't fit together.  The collar also 
doesn't roll right.  

All in all, one of the worst patterns I've worked with.  It had all the 
reputed problems I've seen for Period Patterns and didn't even have Period 
Patterns' decent documentation to offset the pain.

~Morghana
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 18:39:57 1999
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Subject: H-COST:Shopping in t Thailand and India?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

My brother is  traveling in Thailand, and may be going to India.  Naturally,
I want him to bring me fabric.  Can anyone advise me:

where the best places to shop for fabric are?

What would be a reasonable price to pay for changable Thai silk?

What would be a reasonable price for a metallic embroidered silk sari?

And, finally, did Victorian ladies ever actually make ball gowns out of
those saris, or have I seen too many productions of "The King And I?"

Thanks,

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 18:50:54 1999
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

I'd have to echo Heidi's comments on sewing for friends -- I always feel
bad charging them -- but I also share Linda's feelings that it can be
awkward to sew for friends, since the relationship takes a strange
flavor.  Can't explain it exactly....

Now to answer your questions:

1. Are you glad you made the jump to professional?

Well, I still have a hard time calling myself "professional," since I do
not have a degree in costume or fashion.  I learned everything from my
amazing mother, who learned from her grandmother.  What she doesn't know
isn't worth knowing!  She is a fabulous seamstress.  But, yes,
technically I am a pro, since I sell my skills and make everything to a
certain standard.  And I have thoroughly enjoyed sewing for women all
over the world.

2. Do you still enjoy sewing?

Yes and no.  Some weeks I go through strange fits of wanting to get as
far away from my machine as possible.  That's when I put all the sewing
out of sight for a day and so something completely different.  But then
the "itch" hits again, and I am back at it.

3. Do you sell to friends AND stranger?

Mostly to strangers, but I still sew for friends.

4. Do you prefer one over the other?

Not really.

5. Do you sell strictly on-line or strictly at events?

95% of my business comes through the website, and I don't do events, so
the rest of the orders are word of mouth or through my print catalogue.

6. Do you have inventory or do you only sew when ordered?

Sew when ordered -- definitely!

This is a fun and rewarding hobby/business.  Jump on in!

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 19:09:59 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
>

>
>This is a fun and rewarding hobby/business.  Jump on in!
>

Jennie, I just have to ask the vulgar question here:  Do you actually make a
living at costuming?  Or is it extra money for your household?

I ask because a couple of years ago, I asked the list if anyone on it was
making an actual, full time, pay the rent and feed the children living at
costuming, outside of theatrical, film, or teaching costume.  No one was,
out of the 700+ members.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 19:11:52 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: lap dogs (was Kidstuff [was (Authenticity
  Enforcers)])
In-Reply-To: <00d401bf427f$3e11d8a0$10e9f1c3@henk>
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

At 08:31 PM 12/9/99 +0100, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
>
>Common
>to poor people had no time for feeding extra mouths and if a dog was kept
>for hunting rabbits or guarding the farm it was fed on scraps if they had
>any (most farmers did...) or had to fend (in the case of hunting dogs, of
>course) for itself.
>
>Henk

And remember that not all small dogs are lap dogs. The terrier breeds
developed specifically as ratters, rabbit dogs and badger dogs. They are
small but also served a farm purpose.

Julie Adams

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 19:29:21 1999
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

Margo wrote: "Jennie, I just have to ask the vulgar question here:  Do
you actually make
a living at costuming?  Or is it extra money for your household?"

LOL!  I should have specified that in my first response.  No, I do not
"make a living" at sewing.  I am a stay-at-home mom, and my kids are my
first "job."  I just love to sew, and this adds some "padding" to the
family coffer.  ;-)  That's why I often call it a "hobby-business."

Cheers,
Jennie
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 19:29:25 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <003001bf41bb$dd308ea0$9656f4d1@pavilion> <3850510D.B483CB28@rica.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> I'd have to echo Heidi's comments on sewing for friends -- I always feel
> bad charging them -- but I also share Linda's feelings that it can be
> awkward to sew for friends, since the relationship takes a strange
> flavor.  Can't explain it exactly....

Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people ask
if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to help
them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on it.
Has anyone else tried this?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 19:53:50 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: costume business
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 18:13:29 -0800 
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people ask
if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to help
them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on it.
Has anyone else tried this?

Heather

I must say that none of my friends sew, nor are they willing to undertake
something like a period costume, even the simplest.  I rather enjoy the
challenge and the opportunity to make something new, so if fits with my time
schedule and they are willing to pay for the majority or all of the
materials, then I'll take it on.  Only by doing this do I become better with
each costume I make. I unfortunately won't spend the time or $$$ to just
spontaneously make a ballgown or a frock coat(fabriholic that I am), if I
don't have an event to sew one for, so my friends keep me busy in between
the "real customers".

I did have one friend who wanted an enormous squirrel's tail for a Rocky
costume.  She bought the fur, she drew and cut out the tail, I sewed it
together and she stuffed it.  Then we both rigged (and I do mean rigged) it
to her person.  Now that she knows how easy those things are, and is less
daunted by "costuming" by doing something simple, she is more willing to do
some of the non-sewing work on more complicated costumes.

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Heather [mailto:heather@herb-lore.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 6:43 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business



-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> I'd have to echo Heidi's comments on sewing for friends -- I always feel
> bad charging them -- but I also share Linda's feelings that it can be
> awkward to sew for friends, since the relationship takes a strange
> flavor.  Can't explain it exactly....

Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people ask
if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to help
them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on it.
Has anyone else tried this?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 20:02:35 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: costume business
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 18:22:41 -0800 
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Hi again Heather,

I also want to say that novice though you may be, if you're on this list,
your costuming standards are likely higher than that of your non-sewing
friends, and if you are refraining from making them costumes because you
think you aren't good enough yet, rethink it! I look back on my first
"professional sale" (sale to a stranger) and he was so pleased with a jerkin
that I made for him that I'd never let out of my sewing room now!

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Heather [mailto:heather@herb-lore.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 6:43 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business



-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> I'd have to echo Heidi's comments on sewing for friends -- I always feel
> bad charging them -- but I also share Linda's feelings that it can be
> awkward to sew for friends, since the relationship takes a strange
> flavor.  Can't explain it exactly....

Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people ask
if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to help
them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on it.
Has anyone else tried this?

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 20:08:32 1999
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From: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
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References: <003001bf41bb$dd308ea0$9656f4d1@pavilion> <3850510D.B483CB28@rica.net> <001401bf42b8$4cea4360$0101a8c0@f1>
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
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-Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>

<<Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people
ask if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to
help them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on
it. Has anyone else tried this?

I've tried this with friends, too.  None of my friends took me up on the
offer, either.  Funny, that!


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 20:30:43 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 18:45:27 -0800
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: If you liked QE's Wardrobe unlock'd...this may be of interest
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

    No one's mentioned that this book is out, so I will:
ISBN 1872501893 : $150.00 -- v.1.  LC Style Call#: DA332.I584 1998
    The Inventory of King Henry VIII : Society of Antiquaries MS 129 and
British Library MS Harley 1419.  London : Harvey Miller for the Society of
Antiquaries of London, c1998-    .
v. : ill. ; 29 cm. [Note: v.1 is NOT ill. and is xxviii, 511 p. of text]
(Reports of the Research Committee of the Society of Antiquaries of London,
0953-7163 ; no. 96)  CONTENTS:  v.1.  The transcript / ed. by David Starkey
; transcribed by Philip Ward (Asst. Ed.) and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard.
1. Henry VIII, King of England, 1491-1547.  2.  Great
Britain--History--Henry VIII, 1509-1547.  3.  Inventories of decedents'
estates--England--London.  4.  Manuscripts, English--England--London.  I.
Starkey, David.  II.  Society of Antiquaries of London.  Manuscript.  129.
III.  British Library.  Manuscript.  Harley 1419.  
        I found the listings alone incredible!  For those of you who are on
more than one of the lists to which I sent it, my apologies.-- Carol / Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 20:34:29 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Lucky Chicago
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:03:36 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

In the December 3, Wall Street Journal, is an announcement for the
'Renaissance Portrait' exhibit, at the Art Institute of Chicago, on
December 15.  Raphael's 'Veiled Lady' will be exhibited.  As I recall in
the Medieval Miscellanea Chemise pattern, they site this portrait as a
possible example of a drawstring neck type chemise.  I'm not buying it
myself, but it is a beautiful portrait and I am jealous of any of you who
can attend.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 20:48:26 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

><< I ordered some "burnt orange hemp cloth", because i was curious about
> hemp cloth and the price was right :-) >>


I got some too and am still thinking about what to do with it.  It seems to
be a rather open weave.  Have you washed it yet?  How did it take it, if so?
Dye?

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 22:16:50 -0600 (EST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: If you liked QE's Wardrobe unlock'd...this may be of interest
In-Reply-To: <E11wG7f-0001pl-00@mongoose.slip.net>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 9 Dec 1999, Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:

>     No one's mentioned that this book is out, so I will:
> ISBN 1872501893 : $150.00 -- v.1.  LC Style Call#: DA332.I584 1998
>     The Inventory of King Henry VIII : Society of Antiquaries MS 129 and
> British Library MS Harley 1419.  London : Harvey Miller for the Society of
> Antiquaries of London, c1998-    .
> v. : ill. ; 29 cm. [Note: v.1 is NOT ill. and is xxviii, 511 p. of text]
> (Reports of the Research Committee of the Society of Antiquaries of London,
> 0953-7163 ; no. 96)  CONTENTS:  v.1.  The transcript / ed. by David Starkey
> ; transcribed by Philip Ward (Asst. Ed.) and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard.

Actually, this did come up on the list once before. Drea and I both picked
up copies at Kalamazoo in May. (They had two display copies there, and we
grabbed them at a significant discount on the last day. Never could have
managed it otherwise.) 

Though the $150 tag above surprises me. I seem to remember these going for
$200, or $160 with conference discount. And conference discount is usually
as good as you can possibly find for these things. But I may be wrong, and
I don't have the catalog at hand to check.

I look forward to seeing volume 2.

--Robin


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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <E540CD75BA03D311927F0008C7917A4C660388@NTXCITY>
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 20:10:51 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> Hi again Heather,
>
> I also want to say that novice though you may be, if you're on this list,
> your costuming standards are likely higher than that of your non-sewing
> friends, and if you are refraining from making them costumes because you
> think you aren't good enough yet, rethink it! I look back on my first
> "professional sale" (sale to a stranger) and he was so pleased with a
jerkin
> that I made for him that I'd never let out of my sewing room now!
>
> Heidi

Thanks for your vote of confidence, Heidi, but, by joining this list, I'm
finding out how much I never knew I never knew (sounds like Pocahontas,
huh?). The good note is that I'm really enjoying this list!

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Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

I bought the burnt orange hemp too.  I cut off a couple of yards to use
under my cutwork Thanksgiving tablecloth, then washed it in hot water with
some other clothes.  I did not notice any shrinkage (I was sort of hoping)
and the color seems to have stayed exactly the same, or a bit softer.  The
color is a sort of red orange/copper color, and really one of my favorites.
I'm not sure what I'm going to use it for because of its open weave which
makes it a bit light for most outer garb here in AnTir.  It will make lovely
under tunics though, and I have enough to line the inside of a pavilion if I
want to! :-)

Reference Phoenix textiles.  I've ordered five or six times from them now,
and been very happy with their service and prices.  The products are as
advertised, my only problem is that they aren't necessarily what I expected.
The blue 100% wool they had for $1.95 was the greatest bargain I've ever
gotten, it washed down to a lovely cobalt with a soft fuzzy nap.

This place is a real find, and I'll certainly buy more as they come up with
stuff.

They are very responsive to customer feedback, so let's all whine about
needing plain colored wools and silk! :-)

Regina

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Megan McHugh
> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 7:09 PM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: phoenix textiles
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
> ><< I ordered some "burnt orange hemp cloth", because I was curious about
> > hemp cloth and the price was right :-) >>
>
>
> I got some too and am still thinking about what to do with it.
> It seems to
> be a rather open weave.  Have you washed it yet?  How did it take
> it, if so?
> Dye?
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 21:50:48 1999
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From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>


One other source for a Banyan.  Ms. Beth Gilgun wrote a article for here
column "Tidings From the 18th Century".  The article orginally appeared
in the July/August 1993 issue of Muzzleloader.  I believe that Ms.
Gilgun did included in her book of the same name.  

David S Mallinak
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 22:12:40 1999
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-Poster: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>

You wrote:
>Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people ask
>if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to help
>them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on it.
>Has anyone else tried this?

Yes, I frequently make that offer.  The most interesting time I had was when
a trio of SCA "stick jock" types took me up on it.  We had a fun 36 hours of
straight sewing, and I'm pretty sure none of them has ever done it again,
but they now appreciate what is made for them in a way no-one who has never
made their own clothes ever could. 

mm
 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 22:30:03 1999
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>



Carol J. Bell Cannon wrote:

> -Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>
>     No one's mentioned that this book is out, so I will:
> ISBN 1872501893 : $150.00 -- v.1.  LC Style Call#: DA332.I584 1998
>     The Inventory of King Henry VIII : Society of Antiquaries MS 129 and
> British Library MS Harley 1419.  London : Harvey Miller for the Society of
> Antiquaries of London, c1998-    .
> v. : ill. ; 29 cm. [Note: v.1 is NOT ill. and is xxviii, 511 p. of text]
> (Reports of the Research Committee of the Society of Antiquaries of London,
> 0953-7163 ; no. 96)  CONTENTS:  v.1.  The transcript / ed. by David Starkey
> ; transcribed by Philip Ward (Asst. Ed.) and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard.
> 1. Henry VIII, King of England, 1491-1547.  2.  Great
> Britain--History--Henry VIII, 1509-1547.  3.  Inventories of decedents'
> estates--England--London.  4.  Manuscripts, English--England--London.  I.
> Starkey, David.  II.  Society of Antiquaries of London.  Manuscript.  129.
> III.  British Library.  Manuscript.  Harley 1419.
>         I found the listings alone incredible!  For those of you who are on
> more than one of the lists to which I sent it, my apologies.-- Carol / Gra/inne

Someone mentioned this on h-costume awhile back.  It is listed on the UK amazon.com
site, but not the American one as far as I can tell.  It _is_ on the American
Barnes & Noble web site.

But the transcript mentioned is Volume I.  Are the other volumes even published
yet?

Fran

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 22:48:42 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

> Though the $150 tag above surprises me. I seem to remember these going for
> $200, or $160 with conference discount.
>
> --Robin

  It surprised me too.  I had Borders pull it up on their computer about
three  months ago and it listed for $180. They weren't planning on keeping
it in stock at the stores because of the cost; special item orders only.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 23:00:42 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Pink
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

I'm still looking for my notes from my class, with all the little samples 
attached--so I can tell you all what it was I used to produce that nifty 
neon/fuschia  pink--and I actually have seen similar shades  in various 
medieval, as well later , 16th century paintings:)
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 23:05:55 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Acapulco
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 00:24:30 -0500
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
From: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>
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-Poster: Irene leNoir <irene@ici.net>

Hello Everyone,

I've recently learned that I'm going to be taking a trip to Acapulco in 
February.  As all the literature on the web seems geared towards the 
sun-worshipping type of person (which I'm not), I thought I'd ask you 
folks for advice.

Has anyone been there?  Do you have any advice about activities, places 
to see, items to shop for?  Obviously I'm interested in anything having 
to do with fabric :) but I'd also be interested in whatever local 
handcrafts may be available.

Jessica Clark
SCA: Irène leNoir
irene@ici.net
http://home.ici.net/~beowulf/jessica

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec  9 23:38:18 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 01:05:20 -0600 (EST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: If you liked QE's Wardrobe unlock'd...this may be of interest
In-Reply-To: <015501bf42ce$d641dcc0$8c52fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


Me:
> > Though the $150 tag above surprises me. I seem to remember these going for
> > $200, or $160 with conference discount.

Michelle:
>   It surprised me too.  I had Borders pull it up on their computer about
> three  months ago and it listed for $180. They weren't planning on keeping
> it in stock at the stores because of the cost; special item orders only.

Perhaps the book (coming from a British publisher) is priced in pounds,
and American retailers are basing their prices on different exchange rates
from different times. I haven't kept track of currency exchange lately, so
I don't know if the rate was significantly different last May compared to
now.

To answer Fran: Just Volume 1 is out. That's the transcript of the
inventories themselves.  Volumes 2 and 3 will be commentary, including
historical context, analyses of specific categories of objects by various
scholars, and plates (both b/w and color). At least that's what Volume 1
promises.

--Robin


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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991210005759.11361A-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: If you liked QE's Wardrobe unlock'd...this may be of interest
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 01:16:10 -0500
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>



>
> -Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>
>
> Me:
> > > Though the $150 tag above surprises me. I seem to remember these going
for
> > > $200, or $160 with conference discount.
>
> Michelle:
> >   It surprised me too.  I had Borders pull it up on their computer about
> > three  months ago and it listed for $180. They weren't planning on
keeping
> > it in stock at the stores because of the cost; special item orders only.
>
> Perhaps the book (coming from a British publisher) is priced in pounds,
> and American retailers are basing their prices on different exchange rates
> from different times. I haven't kept track of currency exchange lately, so
> I don't know if the rate was significantly different last May compared to

When I got mine from a UK dealer a year or so back, I paid $125.00 US
dollars plus shipping. It's actually a used one, but I've yet to find
anything that would make me think the previous owner even opened the book.
The spine isn't cracked and it has the original dust jacket in excellent
shape.

~Kyna

Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing Supplies and Accessories
http://GranndGarb.com
info@granndgarb.com
ICQ#12859312


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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Greetings!

I've offered, and the offer has been taken up by friends.  It's loads of
fun!

I've only one instance where I've offered to help (and to work with the gal
to teach her) where I've felt completely taken advantage of.  Hasn't
happened since.

Gia/Giacinta

>-Poster: "Erica D. Pence" <erica@robesofantiquity.com>
>
><<Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people
>ask if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to
>help them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up
on
>it. Has anyone else tried this?
>
>I've tried this with friends, too.  None of my friends took me up on the
>offer, either.  Funny, that!
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: If you liked QE's Wardrobe unlock'd...this may be
  of interest
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991209221003.10137A-100000@shell.nightowl.ne
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 10:16 PM 12/09/1999 -0600, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
>Actually, this did come up on the list once before. Drea and I both picked
>up copies at Kalamazoo in May. (They had two display copies there, and we
>grabbed them at a significant discount on the last day. Never could have
>managed it otherwise.) 
           My apologies.  I missed that.
>Though the $150 tag above surprises me. I seem to remember these going for
>$200, or $160 with conference discount. And conference discount is usually
>as good as you can possibly find for these things. But I may be wrong, and
>I don't have the catalog at hand to check.
           It may be that the University Library, having gotten a standing
order for the entire set, and possibly having ordered it before
publication, got a discount that the public would not have.  I note that is
was originally listed at $225.00 for v.1.
>I look forward to seeing volume 2.
           According to Advanced Book Exchange, v.2-3 were also published
in 1998.  The ISBNs for them are:  v.2:  1872501944X  and v.3:  1872501990.
 They were listed with a seller from the UK at 150Lbs UK or ca.
$2andsomething US.  All I can say is that I had v.1 in hand to catalog, but
no further volumes at this time. I, too, will be waiting for the others. --
Carol

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:38:19 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

I have been making costumes for a living for over 10 years as I live in
London  on my own I have to work extremely hard at it to be able to pay
the exorbitant living charges here. I have made for museums, films,
theatre, private collectors, brides, grooms and re-enactors. I was doing
it before I became a re-enactor and this just expanded my market.
I don't generally sew for friends anymore as the only times I have been
shot in the foot was for friends. I have a very strict business way of
working and very tight terms and conditons which are vital.

I don't do much re-enactment work  and even if I display at shows rarely
sell as I am much too expensive having to do this for a living rather
than a secondary living means my prices have to be higher. But I am
lucky in that I have a very good name over here and people save up to
have one of my outfits.

The only person who gets freebies is my other half as I experiment with
men's styles on him.

I have just started selling over the web and have had an excellent
response so far which means I don't have to advertise in magazines as
much. this should save me a fortune. Although web culture is still new
over here so I will still have to do some otf that as well.

My advice is to be varied and flexible in what you do 
Have strict controls on the value of YOUR time and stick to them
Have good terms and conditions 
Learn to say no to a job if it's not right for you (this is the hardest
one of all)

I do have the girls from my group over to sew as I made a decision when
I started to run the 18thc group that they couldn't afford me and I
couldn't charge them to have kit made, but as non of them  sewed I would
rather teach them properly and keep the group at a high dress standard
rather than letting them go and get cheap stuff elsewhere.
This has worked very well and not one of them is going to go off and
make for anyone else

Dawn   
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
 Ïà¡±á


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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:38:36 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST:Helping friends to make costumes
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

 
> <<Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of
> people ask if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be
> very glad to help them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has
> ever taken me up on it. Has anyone else tried this?
> 
> I've tried this with friends, too.  None of my friends took me up on
> the offer, either.  Funny, that!

I do this all the time (so much that I'm pushed for time to make 
costumes for *me*).  Some of them have gone from strength to 
strength and started making costumes without my help (occasional 
phon-calls to check the next step not withstanding....<g>) others 
turn up when they want a new costume so we can work at it 
together, others are happy to hold things, hand me things and do 
the hand finishing (which I *hate* anyway) but won't attempt the 
"making" part.

I can usually tellt he ones who are going to go on to 
unaccompanied costuming by the way they champ at the bit to go 
out and get their own sewing machines.

My "best-student" made himself a velvet doublet (with my help) as 
his irst project and followed it up by making his wife a boned 
bodice and matching skirt  with very lottle help at all.  I got a 
delighted message from his wife shortly after that.  She'd been 
away on a daytrrip with her mother and brother and got back to find 
he'd made a copy of her favourite denim skirt - she'd always said it 
was a few inches shorter than she liked, so he'd bought the fabric 
and made a copy of it with the extra few inches of length.



Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 07:09:44 1999
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From: "Ulrike Mehringer" <ulrike.mehringer@ub.uni-tuebingen.de>
Organization: UB Tuebingen
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 14:28:36 +0200
Subject: Re: H-COST: Manuscript books (was Re; Pink)
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-Poster: "Ulrike Mehringer" <ulrike.mehringer@ub.uni-tuebingen.de>

> I have looked and looked and can't find the Romance of
> Alexander or the Manesse Codex.  Which leads me to believe that the
> books are titled differently.  I would so love some titles or your
> book list or something along those lines.  Can you do this?
> 
> Merouda

The Codex Manesse is also known as
"Heidelberger Liederhandschrift" or
"Manessische Liederhandschrift" or
"Manessesche Liederhandschrift".
You may try to search the LOC catalogue
http://www.loc.gov/catalog/

Ulrike
=================================================================
Ulrike Mehringer

UNIVERSITAETSBIBLIOTHEK TUEBINGEN
Postfach 2620           Tel.:+49 7071 / 29-77859 
72016 Tuebingen         Fax :+49 7071 / 29-3123

http://www.uni-tuebingen.de/ub
=================================================================
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


>     No one's mentioned that this book is out, so I will:
> ISBN 1872501893 : $150.00 -- v.1.  LC Style Call#: DA332.I584 1998
>     The Inventory of King Henry VIII : Society of Antiquaries MS 129 and
> British Library MS Harley 1419.  London : Harvey Miller for the Society of
> Antiquaries of London, c1998-    .
> v. : ill. ; 29 cm. [Note: v.1 is NOT ill. and is xxviii, 511 p. of text]
> (Reports of the Research Committee of the Society of Antiquaries of London,
> 0953-7163 ; no. 96)  CONTENTS:  v.1.  The transcript / ed. by David Starkey
> ; transcribed by Philip Ward (Asst. Ed.) and indexed by Alasdair Hawkyard.
> 1. Henry VIII, King of England, 1491-1547.  2.  Great
> Britain--History--Henry VIII, 1509-1547.  3.  Inventories of decedents'
> estates--England--London.  4.  Manuscripts, English--England--London.  I.
> Starkey, David.  II.  Society of Antiquaries of London.  Manuscript.  129.
> III.  British Library.  Manuscript.  Harley 1419.  
>         I found the listings alone incredible!  For those of you who are on
> more than one of the lists to which I sent it, my apologies.-- Carol / Gra/inne

I have this book and it's wonderful good fun. I just wish that volume 
2 and 3 were out as they explain what is in volume 1 and were 
supposed to have more clothing information in them. They were 
supposed to be out but were put off. I believe it is volume 3 which 
Janet Arnold had a part in.

Hopefully they will get the last 2 volumes out eventually.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 10:00:22 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 09:17:20 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Can anyone point me to a resource that discusses in fair detail how
violations of sumptuary laws were dealt with?  I have just picked up bits
and pieces that while the laws were in place they were basically ignored.
Any help would be appreciated.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 10:19:35 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>, <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Subject: H-COST: Fw: taffeta?
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

Can any one answer this question?
Andrea\

> Do you have any idea if taffeta is a period fabric (for mid-1400s?)
>
> Hope the moving and garbing is going well!
>
> Brighid née Chris
>
> Chris Harrison, Sr. Writer/Editor
> Office of Public Affairs
> The Catholic University of America
> www.cua.edu
> e-mail: harrisoc@cua.edu
> 202/319-6976 (direct)
> 202/319-5600 (main)
> 202/319-4440 (fax)
>
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 10:41:19 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> > Do you have any idea if taffeta is a period fabric (for mid-1400s?)

I would say yes.  It was sometimes known as shot silk.  Hmmm, I should
say that changeable taffeta (aka shot silk) was period.  It is a simple
plain weave, using one color for the warp and one color for the weft.
Now, I don't have any documentation at my fingertips or even at arms
length, but it seems to me, in my memory bank, that this is so.

Merouda/Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 10:43:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 09:00:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fw: taffeta?
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-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

Well, you have to define taffeta - my research (none
of which I have at hand, sorry) has turned up a thick,
silk based, warp-faced weave known as taffety and
tassety as early as the 12th century.  If you consider
taffeta to be a warp-faced rep weave (plain/tabby
weave with the lengthwise threads much closer together
than the crosswise threads), then yes, it was
available in the 14th century.

If, however, you're thinking about the plastic stuff
labled "taffeta" in the fabric store, that may be
another story.  It is both thinner and stiffer than
the historical equivalent would have been.  A better
approximation of historical taffeta *might* be
bengaline or drapery moire.  Anyone else have thoughts
on the matter?

Briony

--- Andrea Gideon <ahgideon@earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
> 
> Can any one answer this question?
> Andrea\
> 
> > Do you have any idea if taffeta is a period fabric
> (for mid-1400s?)
> >
> > Hope the moving and garbing is going well!
> >
> > Brighid née Chris
> >
> > Chris Harrison, Sr. Writer/Editor
> > Office of Public Affairs
> > The Catholic University of America
> > www.cua.edu
> > e-mail: harrisoc@cua.edu
> > 202/319-6976 (direct)
> > 202/319-5600 (main)
> > 202/319-4440 (fax)
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 10:54:54 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:19:06 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
In-Reply-To: <002001bf42d8$f45f03e0$d946cfcf@gia-g>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> I've offered, and the offer has been taken up by friends.  It's loads of
> fun!
> 
> I've only one instance where I've offered to help (and to work with the gal
> to teach her) where I've felt completely taken advantage of.  Hasn't
> happened since.

I, too, have offered to help/teach, and had that offer taken up, with
great success. Jay never knew he could sew so well!  But I have also been
taken advantage of ("Can you help with a velvet cloak?" turned into
"Here's 4 yards of crushed stretch panne, can you have it done in a
week?"), which is why *I'm* particularly interested in this conversation,
as I'm thinking of starting a business, too.

Emma 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 11:45:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:59:06 -0600
From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: New book
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991207015017.16032I-100000@shell.nightowl.net> <00d701bf427f$4b104320$10e9f1c3@henk>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Henk 't Jong - tScapreel wrote:

> Robin wrote:
> > I don't read Italian, but someone out there may be interested in this new
> > book:
> >
> > Maria Giuseppina Muzzarelli, Guardaroba medievale:  vesti e societa dal
> > 13. al 16. secolo (Bologna:  Il mulino, 1999).
> >
> No bookshop or library on the web has heard yet of this book, but if you get
> to know more, please Robin, keep me posted.

The publisher's web page is http://www.mulino.it and it appears that they accept
online orders.

--Charlene

--
The real art of conversation is not only to say the right thing in the right
place, but also to leave unsaid the wrong thing at the tempting moment.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 12:51:16 1999
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> week?"), which is why *I'm* particularly interested in this conversation,
> as I'm thinking of starting a business, too.

How do most of you bill (or are thinking of billing)?  Is it hourly, by the
piece, combinations? Do you give estimates or set a firm price up front? Are
expenses (fabric, trim,...) included in the price or are they extra?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 12:54:01 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 14:12:10 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

That's right.  About mid-century, the banyan might have had loose pleats starting at the waist, but later in the century,they were much more form-fitting and the pleats might have been stitched in place. 

Hope
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: costume business
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:15:15 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Heather,

I must highly recommend Margo Anderson's site with a great page on beginning
a costuming business:

http://www.directcon.net/wander/cosbiz.htm

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Heather [mailto:heather@herb-lore.com]
Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 12:08 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business



-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> week?"), which is why *I'm* particularly interested in this conversation,
> as I'm thinking of starting a business, too.

How do most of you bill (or are thinking of billing)?  Is it hourly, by the
piece, combinations? Do you give estimates or set a firm price up front? Are
expenses (fabric, trim,...) included in the price or are they extra?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 13:34:42 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> I must highly recommend Margo Anderson's site with a great page on
beginning
> a costuming business:

Thanks. Margo's site was informative.

I was just curious about the business side of costuming. I work in the
computer industry where usually an estimate is given up front but customers
are actually charged hourly. Then, again, on my current project, we were
given a budget and once the money runs out, we're done. (I can see it now.
"Here's you're costume. Oh, I'm sorry. I didn't have the budget to finish
that last pant leg, but here's the leg I did finish. You'll just have to
stand sideways...")

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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 13:41:55 1999
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-Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>

On Fri, 10 December 1999, "Heather" wrote:


> 
> I was just curious about the business side of costuming. I work in the
> computer industry where usually an estimate is given up front but customers
> are actually charged hourly. Then, again, on my current project, we were
> given a budget and once the money runs out, we're done. (I can see it now.
> "Here's you're costume. Oh, I'm sorry. I didn't have the budget to finish
> that last pant leg, but here's the leg I did finish. You'll just have to
> stand sideways...")
> 

If *I* were to make costumes for others (not something I've charged for, but I have tossed around the idea), this is how I would do it:

Have a standard hourly rate: say $25/hour (for illustration only)
Calculate how long you reasonably expect the piece to take you, rounding up rather than down. Quote the price based on hourly*rate. (ie if a Tunic takes 3 hours, quote $75 as your labour price). If you are realizing that the project is taking more of your time than expected  (due to requests of the customer, if you screw up and make a mistake and have to spend hours picking it apart, you can't charge for that), it is your responsibility to inform the customer as soon as possible. Provide alternatives: ie "I can do that funky trim  that you wanted for an additional $25, or  you can take it without the trim for the original price"). I would imagine after a couple times through, you can price the project fairly accurately without any later revisions. 

I would price material separately from labor -- silk costs more than cotton but takes the same amount of labor. For the few projects I have done with aquaintances, I will either charge for fabric (at a slight markup from the fabric store), or have them supply their own fabric (subject to my approval  -- because I want to ensure that the fabric choice is appropriate to the garment). 

Just my two pence,

Sheri

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 13:51:52 1999
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 14:09:44 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

I have a great book on criminal justice called Criminal Justice Through the
Ages. It is put out by the Criminalmuseum in Rothenburg, Germany. It has a
wooden ruff that was used to punish women who violate clothing regulations
(pg 197). Plus it discusses it in some detail according to the index.
(Trying to get out of town at this point so can be more detailed on Sunday
when I get back if that is ok).
Carol Ross
-----Original Message-----
From: Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001) <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: 'h-costume@indra.com' <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, December 10, 1999 10:21 AM
Subject: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?


>
>-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>
>Can anyone point me to a resource that discusses in fair detail how
>violations of sumptuary laws were dealt with?  I have just picked up bits
>and pieces that while the laws were in place they were basically ignored.
>Any help would be appreciated.
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 13:52:36 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <7F402D0574C3D011ACF000A0C92B23D3025E113E@nt13pv.apsc.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>



>
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
>
> Can anyone point me to a resource that discusses in fair detail how
> violations of sumptuary laws were dealt with?  I have just picked up bits
> and pieces that while the laws were in place they were basically ignored.
> Any help would be appreciated.

There is a site on line with the sumptuary laws listed in detail. I have a
print out here, put away. Maybe the site has some details on punishments
also, that I didn't see.  Have you already seen the list?  I'll pull it out
to get the address for the site if you need it. Let me know.
  The othere idea I have for you, is putting the question to the TudorTalk
mail list. I am on the list and can forward your question or point you
toward the list instead. Again, let me know what you want to do, since it is
unknown to me what you have already found or searched through.

Michelle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 14:05:39 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: costume business
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>


Just to add another log to this fire.  Another thing you have to add in when
figuring out the price is what I call the "Boredom Factor".  The first time
I make a costume I have a great time and enjoy the work.  Twenty of the same
thing, and it takes a little more to get my fingers moving.  Making ready to
wear, is one thing.  I can turn out a Ren faire shirt without even being
fully wake.  But a corset or a doublet takes a good number of brain cells,
because each one is pretty much the same, but has different fitting
problems.  But come a month before North Faire I don't want to make one more
doublet, even if its for me.  When Star Trek II came out I made the tailored
uniform for a friend.  It's an tricky outfit, and looks terrible if you
don't get the tailoring just right.  But I was the first one and I figured
it would be good practice before I started on mine.  I charged her $125 plus
cost of fabric.  It looked great and she loved it.  And so did everyone
else.  Luckily I had told her that she was getting a friend price, so when I
got about 15 orders for the same thing they didn't think they were getting
it for $125.  Of the people that called I ended up making 11 costumes, and
never did make one for myself.  I ended up adding about $50 dollars to the
price every couple of costumes.  Except for the one that cost the gentlemen
$1500, (never order a week before the wedding.)  The long and the short of
this is charge what it takes for you to get the job done and better to
figure on the high end rather that on the low.


-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

I was just curious about the business side of costuming. I work in the
computer industry where usually an estimate is given up front but customers
are actually charged hourly. Then, again, on my current project, we were
given a budget and once the money runs out, we're done. (I can see it now.
"Here's you're costume. Oh, I'm sorry. I didn't have the budget to finish
that last pant leg, but here's the leg I did finish. You'll just have to
stand sideways...")

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 14:05:55 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Personally, and I don't do a tremendous amount for others than my kith &
kin, I ask the customer to meet me at the fabric store... they pay for
all materials.  I give them a time estimate & charge $25/hour.  I call
if the estimate runs over 10% of total cost for approval.  I point out
that hand sewing costs more labor because it takes me 7 hours to hand
sew a simple t-tunic dress as opposed to machine sewing it completely
which takes about 1-2.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 14:32:59 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 12:47:21 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Clothing Mistakes (was Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  I have a great book on criminal justice called Criminal Justice Through
the
>  Ages. It is put out by the Criminalmuseum in Rothenburg, Germany. It has
a
>  wooden ruff that was used to punish women who violate clothing
regulations
>  (pg 197). 

Considering the contortions that women have gone through (and men, too) to
be fashionable, I'm surprised the wooden ruff didn't take off as a fashion
statement. (Or maybe it did, not my period! ;)
A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity? Mine is
the c.1830's American women's sleeves. They look to me like linebackers in
lace! And it made thier heads, to my eye, look way too tiny. Perhaps some
women can carry this look, but I sure can't!

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Clothing Mistakes (was Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-p
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


Considering the contortions that women have gone through (and men, too) to
be fashionable, I'm surprised the wooden ruff didn't take off as a fashion
statement. (Or maybe it did, not my period! ;)
A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity? Mine is
the c.1830's American women's sleeves. They look to me like linebackers in
lace! And it made thier heads, to my eye, look way too tiny. Perhaps some
women can carry this look, but I sure can't!

Kate

There are a few periods that are no fun for the mem.  1750 comes formost to
my mind.  Everything fitted like a second skin.  Waistcoat, and coat pulling
your shoulders together.  And the breeches, you can look good or you can sit
BUT not both.

The last time I tried that period I never got past the muslin stage.  I
looked like I was 10 months gone.

Stephen Bergdahl - (Give me a well tailored frock coat any day.)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 14:40:20 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity?

The wheel farthingale is, to me, the most ridiculous piece.  *Especially* when
sitting down.  I'm not crazy about those waspish 19th century waists either.
Yikes!

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 14:42:26 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Sewing Hells (was: costume business)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 13:01:12 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Question. I'm very much a novice, but I've still had a couple of people
ask if I could make them something. I tell them no but I'd be very glad to
help them if they wanted to make a day of it. No one has ever taken me up on
it. Has anyone else tried this?

>I've tried this with friends, too.  None of my friends took me up on the
offer, either.  Funny, that!

Yes, I have.  I usually say that I will show them how and that they will do
all the work.  Sewing Hells have happened at my house on many occasions.
The most I've done at once is a 1902 wedding (3 maids & a bride)
simultaneously helping 9 women into 1848-52 ball gowns for Stanford Vintage
Dance Ensemble. That was a busy 7 months.

I will only barter my costume services for someone else svcs.  Not money.  I
figure an hour for something I'm good at vs. an hour for something you're
good at is fair.  I've had a few say they'd rather pay.  I'm not willing to
go pro & take a pay cut. Instead, I jokingly offer that they can pay my
regular silicon valley S/W engineer hourly rate.  Somehow, they just laugh.
Historically & today, people just aren't willing to pay seamstresses &
tailors.  Maybe if I called myself a Fabric Engineer?

The biggest concern is going to be having enough equipment & space for all
available.  I also try to find a 2:1 ratio of novice to experienced
costumers.  Potluck food makes it a party.  Sometimes, we even start the day
at a new fabric or notions store someone's discovered then off to the slave
pits,
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource? - Long!!!
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:22:52 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

Actually, I decided to take the time to reply :)

First a little background.....This book is from the Kriminalmuseum in
Rothenburg, Germany were they had many pieces of torture on display. The
book is from there and the info on it is... "Criminal Justice Through the
Ages", published by Mittelalterliches Kriminalmuseum. I can't seem to find
an isb number for it. I have the english edition. This book primarly focuses
on Germany laws and their punishments so what I quote may not be true for
all of Europe. What I am going to do is give the page numbers then the
context then the actual quote.

22 through 24 - on Imperial police codes of 16th Century - "The rules of law
and order and the police tried to control blasphemy, excessive drinking,
exaggerated dressiness, and to curb luxury. For example, they prohibited the
wearing of velvet, damak, satin, and silk, coats by merchants and traders in
the town, and laid restraints on superflous bridle equipment for horses and
worldly clothing for the clergy."
85 - on Imperial law on jews - "It was not until the imperial public peace
law of 1103 that the public peace was also extended to the Jews; this was
coupled, however, with the loss of the right to bear arms and complusion to
wear specific clothing (conical hat)."
149 through 150 - Section on wearing degrading Garments - "The symbolic
significance of clothing is as old as clothing itself. It demonstrates the
rank and status of the wearer. So what was more obvious than to make persons
who placed themselve beyond the pale of the community by thier actions,
their peculiar origin or thier vocation recognizable to all special
clothing.
The appearace, and in the broadest sense the dress, of a person includes the
hair. The hair-style. open or tied, long or short, permitted conclusions to
be drawn with regard to a person's legal status. Only the freeman wore long
hair, while the bondsman's was cut short. Consequently, cutting off the hair
of the head was a degrading punishment from time immemorial. Men and women
who had committed sexual offences had their hair cut off, a degrading
punishment still inflicted in our times by moblaw.
Shortening of a woman's dress was a customary degrading punishment. The
mothers of illegimate children and female adulterers had a broad strip cut
off the bottom of thier dress in public. Clothing served primarily as a
protection from inclement weather and the shortening of the dress meant
exposure, deprival of protection and disgrace.
Like the reduction or shortening of clothing, compulsion to wear certain
garments was likewise a degrading punishment or at least the mark of those
considered dishonest. Insolvent debtors were therefor required to wear a
yellow hat and imcompetent farmers a white hat (Schaumburg Lippe, 18th
Century). The sharp distinction between Christians and Jews demanded the
Catholic chruch resulted in Jews  having to wear a pointed hat and a yellow
patch on their breast as identification. To enable better supervision of
prostitution, which though tolerated was viewed with suspicion by the
authoriteis, prostitutes were ordered to wear conspicuous clothig
characteristic of thier calling. Excutioners, too, were required to wear
different clothing than the normal citizen.
The clothing regualtions issued in the 14th and 15th century, above all in
the cities, made breaches of them practically inevitable. Contraventions of
the clothing regulations were punished mainly by fines, but in some cities
the tipstaffs had orders to remove on the open street too opulent clothing
not in keeping with a person's rank."
275 - on women of ill repute - "The courteasans, wenches or ladies of easy
virtue were compelled to wear conspicuous clothing characteristic of their
calling. In Rothenburg, a red-and-white kerchief, in Augusburg merely a
strip of green material two fingers wide on their veil, and in Leipzip short
yellow mantles on which blue cords were sewn."
290 through 296 - I consider this too long to retype out so will have to
read it and summerize for you. I will get back to this in a bit (maybe
Sunday)

Carol Ross

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

Regarding sumptuary laws, what country? What years?  It varied  depending on 
when and where you were.

Pamela D. 
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 02:25 PM 12/10/1999 -0600, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Personally, and I don't do a tremendous amount for others than my kith &
>kin, I ask the customer to meet me at the fabric store... they pay for
>all materials.

I will never do this again, not since the time I took a client along to
select the lambskins for a  leather swashbuckler shirt and he insisted on
closely inspecting every single one of a 150 skin bundle.  "I want this one
for the left cuff..this is the back yoke...this one, no, this one, for the
left side front panel...."  It did turn out stunning, though.  

Margo



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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 08:40:30 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Mara

Racinet was published in the 1800's - and is very romantical!  I own it as
it is a very nice looking book, but would not dream of using it as a source.

Think:  typical Victorian ideals of history and you have it.

Have a terrific Day

Madilayn

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn


>

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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:38:48 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

First off, thank you all for reading and responding to my initial question.

The time period is 1600, the area is England. The person is a very, very
wealthy visiting merchant from Germany.  How would the sumptuary laws been
applied?  

I find it very interesting.  Not that everything human beings do makes
sense, but it was my understanding that some nobles, even kings had to
borrow money from banks run by the wealthy merchant class.  So, how did they
get off restricting what those people wore? 

Anyone know when sumptuary laws 'went out of fashion'?

Does anyone recall coming across examples where the laws were ignored?  I
wish I could remember the source, but I remember reading about one non-noble
woman who was asked or told that she couldn't wear her best dress to a
wedding of a princess because her clothes were more sumptuous than the
nobles.  So, the point being that she may have complied on this occasion but
not usually.
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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

I went and looked through all of my books on criminal justice and torture
and all I could find was what I posted in my last post (the really long
one). I imagine that you would have to obey the English laws but I am not
certain.
Carol Ross

>
>The time period is 1600, the area is England. The person is a very, very
>wealthy visiting merchant from Germany.  How would the sumptuary laws been
>applied?
>
>I find it very interesting.  Not that everything human beings do makes
>sense, but it was my understanding that some nobles, even kings had to
>borrow money from banks run by the wealthy merchant class.  So, how did
they
>get off restricting what those people wore?
>
>Anyone know when sumptuary laws 'went out of fashion'?
>
>Does anyone recall coming across examples where the laws were ignored?  I
>wish I could remember the source, but I remember reading about one
non-noble
>woman who was asked or told that she couldn't wear her best dress to a
>wedding of a princess because her clothes were more sumptuous than the
>nobles.  So, the point being that she may have complied on this occasion
but
>not usually.
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:53:31 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: Re: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

At 08:41 AM 12/9/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> I recently went to the following web site, which has an unfortunate
>> attempt at what the seamstress calls a Highland Gown:
>
>Just a thought.  How do you know that she isn't on this list?  Personally, I
>would be very careful before posting a comment like this to a public forum.
>We can't educate if someone's feelings are terribly hurt.
>
>FWIW,
>Cynthia

Ok, you're right.  I don't know she isn't on this list, or at least
lurking.  If the seamstress is on the list, I apologize for my catty
remarks and chalk it up to stir-craziness on my part (am just dying to get
out of the house after my stitches heal sufficiently).  Plus crankiness
from having to deal with too many stupid-tourist questions when I _am_ out
trying to do an accurate period impression and educate people (Is that a
real fire?  Is that knife sharp?  Did they really get dyes that color
(referring to my sky-blue indigo dyed wool, done on-site and hanging up to
dry)?  They didn't have guns like that back then!  You can't fight a war
with guns like that!).  It's sometimes rather like going to a
science-fiction convention, with people wandering around in bunny-fur tops
and ragged-edged leather skirts, with fake Celtic tattoos on their
arms/bellies...  Yes, I understand that people like to have fun.  She just
hit a nerve.  I'm sorry.

Mara



Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:46:25 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

At 03:02 PM 12/9/99 -0600, you wrote:
>You can't see it as well in the photo which is very muted but my dh has
>a tie of the Ancient Bruce and it's NEON... and every other tartan I've
>seen noted as Ancient Bruce is JUST as neon.
>
>Kat

That wasn't my point.  Is Ancient Bruce really an ancient tartan?  If so,
what is it based on, since there are no 'clan tartans' going back much
further than the beginning of the Victorian era?

Yes, you can get bright colors using natural dyes.  Not neon-bright, but
pretty bright.  And I guess what I call 'neon' are the shades that you see
on surfer or skateboarder attire, not just a bright red or yellow.  I've
gotten fairly bright oranges and yellows using natural dyes.  I'm not
disputing that you can; the question is, how were those dyes used?  I've
seen tartans that were both too bright, and those that were (IMNSHO) too dark.

Bright reds and bright yellows were certainly obtainable in our period.
I'm disputing the argument that Bruce is in any way ancient.  In fact, my
copy of 'Tartans: Their Art and History' says that Bruce is from Vestarium
Scoticum, a famous early Victorian forgery which was purported to be of
much older origin but which was in fact published in 1842.  Their picture
of 'Bruce' does indeed show a tartan that is predominantly orange/red and
yellow, and the colors certainly could have been acheived using natural
dyes.  BUT -- does that mean that a patten invented by Victorians is in any
way like the patterns woven in earlier centuries?  For that, you have to
look at the portraits done in those earlier centuries, and not assume that
a pattern invented later is valid.  (In fact, it's not very different from
one worn in a portrait of Bonnie Prince Charlie by John Pettie, so an
argument could be made for its use.  But not as the 'Bruce tartan', since
there wouldn't have been any such thing.)

For that matter, the colors in Buchanan are probably acheivable using
natural dyes, and that's a very bright tartan.  But the sett (pattern)
simply isn't accurate for my period (mid 1700s), as far as I can tell.
Fine for Victorian and later, of course!  Just don't use it for earlier
periods -- it's like taking a modern chinese brocade and using it for a
Tudor gown.  You might sometimes find something that would work, but it
would take a lot of careful research and luck!

Cheers,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 17:57:48 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 16:07:51 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I'm pretty sure that visiting merchants, like diplomats, are exempt from
local sumptuary laws.  One of the reason for the laws is to keep people from
getting above themselves, sure, but also to keep them from spending all
their money on clothes.  The Queen doesn't care how foreigners beggar
themselves on fine dress.  It's always wise not to outdress the Queen, sure,
but in ordinary commerce, it shouldn't be a problem.  A Swedish princess who
tries will be sorry, I'm sure, but not fined or put in the stocks or
whatever.  However...

If the merchant takes up permanent residence in London, it might also be
wise to go along with the prevailing restraint, to fit in and avoid inciting
envy.  Foreigners in England had anough to worry about!  So it depends on
the circumstances in which the character finds himself.  

My personal opinon about sumptuary in Tudor/Elizabethan England is that it's
enforced by the neighbors.  The Watch does not kick down your door on their
own to see if you have things above your station.  If you appear at a dance
in the wrong sort of fur, you don't immediately get arrested.  No, someone
complains to the town Council, or one Alderman's wife complains to her
husband about another Alderman's wife, and the both Aldermen sigh "Women!"
and decide what's to be done about it.  If Alderman B can't get his wife to
take the fur trim off her new hat, or gets huffy about it himself, the
Council may have to determine a fine.  I haven't run into a lot of evidence
of people being run in to court on a charge of illegal use of gilt.  

But I could be wrong. ;)

Just my tuppence ha'penny, as always.


> MaggiRos
> http://ren.dm.net
> 
> 
> Mary Countess of Southampton (RPF ret.)
> Clara Munter, the Sojer's Friend (Corona, CA)
> Mairghread-Ros FitzGarrett of Desmond (O.L. Caid) 
> and sometimes even 
> 	Maggie Pierce Secara
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------
> From: 	Genevieve de Courtanvaux[SMTP:gdc@airmail.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Friday, December 10, 1999 3:26 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
> 
> I went and looked through all of my books on criminal justice and torture
> and all I could find was what I posted in my last post (the really long
> one). I imagine that you would have to obey the English laws but I am not
> certain.
> Carol Ross
> 
> >
> >The time period is 1600, the area is England. The person is a very, very
> >wealthy visiting merchant from Germany.  How would the sumptuary laws
> been
> >applied?
> >
> >I find it very interesting.  Not that everything human beings do makes
> >sense, but it was my understanding that some nobles, even kings had to
> >borrow money from banks run by the wealthy merchant class.  So, how did
> they
> >get off restricting what those people wore?
> >
> >Anyone know when sumptuary laws 'went out of fashion'?
> >
> >Does anyone recall coming across examples where the laws were ignored?  I
> >wish I could remember the source, but I remember reading about one
> non-noble
> >woman who was asked or told that she couldn't wear her best dress to a
> >wedding of a princess because her clothes were more sumptuous than the
> >nobles.  So, the point being that she may have complied on this occasion
> but
> >not usually.
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> A Swedish princess who
> tries will be sorry, I'm sure, but not fined or put in the stocks or
> whatever.  However...

FWIW, I doubt a Princess needs to worry about sumptuary laws, local or foreign.
I might be mistaken, I often am, but weren't sumptuary laws for the nobility on
down, not for royalty?

That's my tuppence,  :)
Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:18:10 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 16:28:12 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

That's what I meant.  Someone cited a princess being advised not to wear
something because it would outshine the Queen's gown.  That's advice, not
law.  The "punishment" is the Queen's temper.

The laws I've seen are based on rank and income, and generally anyone above
the degree of a baroness (or worth more than 100 pounds a year) can wear
anything she likes.  I haven't made a lengthy study of this tho.  Everyone
I've ever played has either been a Countess or of such meager standing that
the question is unlikely to come up. :)

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Merouda the True of Beaumaris[SMTP:keltia@serv.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Friday, December 10, 1999 4:26 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
> 
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> > A Swedish princess who
> > tries will be sorry, I'm sure, but not fined or put in the stocks or
> > whatever.  However...
> 
> FWIW, I doubt a Princess needs to worry about sumptuary laws, local or
> foreign.
> I might be mistaken, I often am, but weren't sumptuary laws for the
> nobility on
> down, not for royalty?
> 
> That's my tuppence,  :)
> Cynthia
> 
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:19:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 16:39:14 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: H-COST: Cocoon Coat, etc. from Folkwear...
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Since this has come up on this list before...

I just received the following e-mail from Lark Books, current 
publishers of Folkwear Patterns:

---------------------

* New Pattern from FOLKWEAR - The Paris Promenade Dress  *

One of our brand new patterns has arrived: #261 The PARIS PROMENADE DRESS.
This easy-to-sew, easy-to-wear afternoon dress from about 1920 flatters any
figure. Pullover dress is attached to bib-shaped overdress, then shaped to
the body at the waist by a self-fabric sash or purchased decorative cord.
Vintage-style drawstring handbag completes the look. Pattern includes
instructions for making decorative tassels to attach at ends of dress
sleeves and bottom of handbag. Misses Extra Small to Extra Large. $16.95

Check it out at:
http://www.larkbooks.com/home.nav/dynamic/search/results/?sectdir=fw&c 
at=romantic&prod=32261&lsid=0005b334f66088e3c655fe6224a43a88

That's not all! More new patterns will be arriving soon:
#260 SUNBURST COCOON COAT
and
#208 KINSALE CLOAK FOR YOUNG MAIDENS
should be available by January 2000.

Look through the entire collection of Folkwear Patterns to your heart's
content at:
http://www.larkbooks.com/home.nav/fw/

OR

request a free Folkwear catalog by e-mailing folkwear@larkbooks.com or
calling 1-800-284 3388.

---------------------

I'm not selling anything, just letting interested folks know...

BTW, pattern 261 is not a "flapper"dress"...

Lilinah
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:20:36 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Not meaning to flame anyone but quite frankly I'm sure that there were
ancestors who wore any type of flaming color that was capable of being
made with the dyes available to them.  Everyone has a tendency to point
to earlier generations and say things like "oh but people *conformed*
back in 'x'".  I don't believe it.  Over and over I hear folx saying
that this or that just *wasn't* done in thus & so a period.  But without
a time machine how do we know?  Really?  If it's not specifically
mentioned in writing by someone who we can trust (and can we really
'trust' anyone to be 100% accurate?) how do we know that there weren't
people doing/wearing 'x'?  Non-conformists did not spring out of the
ether in this generation... or the last one... or the one before that. 
So here's my solution... if you feel that it is being more accurate by
following *only* what is specifically written down in a document then go
for it.  If you feel it's accurate to go by what's written down &
paintings etc... go for it.  If you feel it's accurate to use materials
and methods available for the period... go for it.  Personally, I have
enough stress in my life without worrying about it... and I've read
enough history to not worry about it.  <grin>

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:29:33 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> 
> I will never do this again, not since the time I took a client along
> to select the lambskins for a  leather swashbuckler shirt and he
> insisted on closely inspecting every single one of a 150 skin bundle.
>  "I want this one for the left cuff..this is the back yoke...this one,
> no, this one, for the left side front panel...."  It did turn out
> stunning, though.

LOL!  This is why I take separate cars!!  Bless me!  I'd have looked at
him and said, "you need 'x' amount... I'll be at home waiting."

Kat
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:00:23 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Mchelle

Can you please post the site with the Sumptary Laws on it?  (or sent it
privately to me if you like)

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

Visit D'Realm of the Fairies:  http://www.thesitefights.com/fairies

Do you fight?  http://www.thesitefighs.com



>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:42:46 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:03:48 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

I agree about the wheel farthingale, but my alltime hate is the current
trend for Micro Mini skirts (as in Ally McBeal).

You have to have perfect legs to wear them and look good, but they are just
plain not business-like or professional for work wear (and yes - I know
people who do wear them for work).

I catch the bus with a lady who wears them soo short that when she sits
down, she is not actually sitting on her skirt!

The other big hate is tent dresses for larger sizes.  I am a big lady and I
can't stand that people assume that because one is not a model size, that
one must wear a tent.

I dress very well - and not in tents.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

Visit D'Realm of the Fairies:  http://www.thesitefights.com/fairies

Do you fight?  http://www.thesitefighs.com



>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 18:52:51 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Albert Racinet
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 17:11:46 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>Racinet was published in the 1800's - and is very romantical!  I own it as
>it is a very nice looking book, but would not dream of using it as a
source.
>Think:  typical Victorian ideals of history and you have it.

Yes, "romantic" as in flights of fancy.  I have both the complete Racinet
(intro by Dr. Aileen Ribero) and the abridged Dover version.  Dr. Ribero's
comments on Racinet's somewhat questionable scholarship, the "creative"
choice of colors in the original publication and her notes on *his* source
material are interesting, informative reading for the novice/intermediate
costume historian. It's a top notch source for Victorian Fancy Dress.

A few years ago, I saw 2 of the original 1880 set of 6 volumes.  Hand
colored plates.  Brilliant condition.  US$600 the pair.  I walked away from
it.  Sometime I regret this. Sometimes I dont.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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Subject: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



The thing I can't stand is those Napoleon era men's collars that covered 
men's chins. I've seen a few in movies that made me think, "Oh -- so THAT was 
the idea." But I bet they were mostly hideous, like stretch pants so often 
are today. But to each his own -- I like those 1830s sleeves!

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 20:17:53 1999
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

You can find them on Drea's site at 
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/general.html

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 10 20:42:44 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/10/1999 9:29:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<< The thing I can't stand is those Napoleon era men's collars that covered 
 men's chins. >>

You mean that cravat style where you fold the bias cut silk triangle [or 
folded square] over a leather or boned stock. It looks great if you fuss with 
it a lot. But I agree with you that if someone was not so fussy it might look 
awful! Of course the same is true of things like hoop skirts. The wrong one 
or worn incorrectly can be a disaster.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 05:06:39 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Peascod bellies on Elizabethan men's jackets.  Time for the men to look
as if they are pregnant, finally!

--
  "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
       "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 05:21:56 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>




>
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
> > A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity?
>
One vote for the huge wigs just prior to the French revolution.
Another vote for tri-corn or bi-corn men's hats.
Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
already, why make it huge?

Andrea

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 06:58:57 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF43A5.32465C40
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This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years of Fashion" by =
Boucher.  The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian dress, but =
it doesn't have to be your focus.  Just look at the picture and give me =
your opinion.  The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. Bronzino)on =
page 230.  It appears that their is some sort of trim at the sleeves and =
down the skirt.  Normally I would have thought it was piping, but to me =
it looks like the line is broken at regular intervals.  Does this look =
like beading to anyone else?  Or what does it look like to you?
Andrea

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years =
of Fashion"=20
by Boucher.&nbsp; The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian =
dress, but=20
it doesn't have to be your focus.&nbsp; Just look at the picture and =
give me=20
your opinion.&nbsp; The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. =
Bronzino)on=20
page 230.&nbsp; It appears that their is some sort of trim at the =
sleeves and=20
down the skirt.&nbsp; Normally I would have thought it was piping, but =
to me it=20
looks like the line is broken at regular intervals.&nbsp; Does this look =
like=20
beading to anyone else?&nbsp; Or what does it look like to =
you?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_004B_01BF43A5.32465C40--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 05:53:59 1999
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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Heather wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
> 
> > week?"), which is why *I'm* particularly interested in this conversation,
> > as I'm thinking of starting a business, too.
> 
> How do most of you bill (or are thinking of billing)?  Is it hourly, by the
> piece, combinations? Do you give estimates or set a firm price up front? Are
> expenses (fabric, trim,...) included in the price or are they extra?
> 

I have a basic pricelist of machine body hand finished clothing. As I
have been doing it for so long I now have a good idea of what length of
time each job is going to take. i.e trousers are days work so they are a
days pay etc
I charge fabric separately, something I learned was a wise move early
on. But again I usually know how much fabric is needed and the approx
cost pm  so can give an accurate quote. 
For instance for a Napoleonic officers coat I need 21/2m redcloth at
 30pm + 1m facing cloth @£45pm +1/2m white wool for turnbacks @£30pm +
15m lace + buttons. This doesn't vary . If it is for something like
wedding dress when trims etc are decided during making the customer
knows that the order price may differ slightly at the end but it is
their responsibility to say no if they don't want expensive trims etc
 I take a 50% deposit Then another 25% halfway through then the balance
before delivery. I also charge for postage if they can't pick up.
Particularly as I have alot of customers overseas. I also charge if I
have to go somewhere else for the fittings. Do also bear in mind that
making time also means running around finding fabrics so include that.
Your time is precious and your customers should respect that. Most don't
Sewing is an unrecognised skill and you won't make a fortune by going
pro.

Even institutions like museums are now going for whatever is cheap
rather than what is accurate for their display cases

Good Luck

Dawn   
      

>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
 Ïà¡±á


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 08:43:57 1999
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Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
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-Poster: cynthia j ley <cley@juno.com>

Big clothing hate:

Spandex. On women especially. It enhances the thin of thin people, and if
you aren't thin it makes you look like you weight 400 pounds even though
you may only weigh 120 dripping wet!

Guys in good shape look pretty buff in it though. ;)

Other dislikes: spike shoes, especially spike slippers with feathers or
other froo-froo over the arch. Those ridiculous round cloth hats that
were all the rage last year--I never saw anyone of any age who didn't
look like they weren't wearing a pile of mashed potatoes on their head.

Big likes: tailored looks, clothes designed to fit the body rather than
the other way around, clean lines, nice flow, very classic and classy.



					Arlys

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Message-ID: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 10:10:36 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/11/1999 6:42:15 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
ahgideon@earthlink.net writes:


 <<Another vote for tri-corn or bi-corn men's hats.
 
Bite your tongue....these are both fantastic styles....of course capable of 
being ugly but mostly they look great. They're a standard for a century! 


>>Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
 already, why make it huge?

Keep biting! Bustles no more make one's butt look big than panniers make 
one's hips look big. What they do make one look like is that one is wearing 
some kind of hooped or padded underpinning to support skirts. I ask you, does 
anyone over 6 years old ever think these things are flesh???

Now if you REALLY want to complain about these things, think:

High waisted panniers....like with an Empire gown....it happened! or....
The dropped waisted version of the same thing in the 1920's

Now THESE were mistakes! [like the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 
1980s or the "grunge look"] and blessedly didn't last long at all. [also like 
the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 1980s or the "grunge look"]
 
 
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 09:23:17 -0600
From: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>
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-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>

Since were are talking about fashions we could do without, my personal
'favorite' is the huge tube pants, with no waist and legs you could fit
your body in.  With the waist band hanging so low that if it wasn't for
the boxers you would see half their cheeks.

Nic(constant lurker)

AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 12/11/1999 6:42:15 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> ahgideon@earthlink.net writes:
> 
>  <<Another vote for tri-corn or bi-corn men's hats.
> 
> Bite your tongue....these are both fantastic styles....of course capable of
> being ugly but mostly they look great. They're a standard for a century!
> 
> >>Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
>  already, why make it huge?
> 
> Keep biting! Bustles no more make one's butt look big than panniers make
> one's hips look big. What they do make one look like is that one is wearing
> some kind of hooped or padded underpinning to support skirts. I ask you, does
> anyone over 6 years old ever think these things are flesh???
> 
> Now if you REALLY want to complain about these things, think:
> 
> High waisted panniers....like with an Empire gown....it happened! or....
> The dropped waisted version of the same thing in the 1920's
> 
> Now THESE were mistakes! [like the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late
> 1980s or the "grunge look"] and blessedly didn't last long at all. [also like
> the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 1980s or the "grunge look"]
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 10:07:30 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:24:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: Highland Dress (again)
In-Reply-To: <LPBBKNMJBFAPBEPPLOBJIEEECEAA.madilayn@one.net.au>
Message-ID: <Pine.SV4.3.96.991211112442.13253B-100000@saltmine.radix.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

That's pretty much what I figured.  Thanks!


On Sat, 11 Dec 1999, Megan McConnell wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
> 
> Mara
> 
> Racinet was published in the 1800's - and is very romantical!  I own it as
> it is a very nice looking book, but would not dream of using it as a source.
> 
> Think:  typical Victorian ideals of history and you have it.
> 
> Have a terrific Day
> 
> Madilayn
> 
> Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
> ICQ #  57164109
> Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn
> 
> 
> >
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 10:44:06 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

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It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns of =
Fashion" there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is located =
on page 15. See number 84. If you look closely at the piping running =
down the center front of the doublet you can see that it is slashed. =
Also on page 26 number 169. The neck of the garment also has the same =
treatment. Good Luck with the garment.
Carol Ross=20
aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux
  -----Original Message-----
  From: Andrea Gideon <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
  To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
  Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 5:49 AM
  Subject: H-COST: question regarding a picture


  This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years of Fashion" by =
Boucher.  The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian dress, but =
it doesn't have to be your focus.  Just look at the picture and give me =
your opinion.  The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. Bronzino)on =
page 230.  It appears that their is some sort of trim at the sleeves and =
down the skirt.  Normally I would have thought it was piping, but to me =
it looks like the line is broken at regular intervals.  Does this look =
like beading to anyone else?  Or what does it look like to you?
  Andrea

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV>It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns of =
Fashion"=20
there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is located on page =
15. See=20
number 84. If you look closely at the piping running down the center =
front of=20
the doublet you can see that it is slashed. Also on page 26 number 169. =
The neck=20
of the garment also has the same treatment. Good Luck with the =
garment.</DIV>
<DIV>Carol Ross </DIV>
<DIV>aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
  </B>Andrea Gideon &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:ahgideon@earthlink.net">ahgideon@earthlink.net</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>To:=20
  </B>H-Costume &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>Dat=
e:=20
  </B>Saturday, December 11, 1999 5:49 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>H-COST: =
question=20
  regarding a picture<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years =
of=20
  Fashion" by Boucher.&nbsp; The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era =
Italian=20
  dress, but it doesn't have to be your focus.&nbsp; Just look at the =
picture=20
  and give me your opinion.&nbsp; The picture is #466 (Laudonia de =
Medici by A.=20
  Bronzino)on page 230.&nbsp; It appears that their is some sort of trim =
at the=20
  sleeves and down the skirt.&nbsp; Normally I would have thought it was =
piping,=20
  but to me it looks like the line is broken at regular intervals.&nbsp; =
Does=20
  this look like beading to anyone else?&nbsp; Or what does it look like =
to=20
  you?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: "Costume List" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 08:44:25 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Greetings!
=20
I did something really scary just now!  I went into my livingroom and =
pulled out my Boucher *in the dark*!  It's *funny* that I knew right off =
where the book was..*LOL*!

Anyhow, to the question:  The edge trimming that you are looking at is a =
common treatment and you'll find it on other garments of the time as =
well; Janet Arnold has a few pictures in her books with this treatment =
as well. Yes, you are correct it is broken at intervals. I speculate =
that the trimming is actually a piece of material (or ribbon or material =
folded on the *bias*) folded in half, lengthwise, sewn on like piping, =
and then snipped at intervals.  Or it the material is snipped prior to =
sewing on, though I lean more towards after it was sewn on.  Or the =
trimming is made from individual mini tabs that are sewn on one by one.  =


Now, the reason why I think the trimming is snipped after application is =
based on the idea that cut edges unravel with a lot of handling, which =
is what happens when you are doing sewing by hand.  Unless the snip is =
treated with gum arabic or other sealants.  Or if the trimming is cut on =
the bias, then the snips *generally* would not tend to unravel.  I say =
generally, because it would depend on the weave and finish whether or =
not the material would unravel.

Or if it is made with individual tabs made with ribbon, then there would =
not be any exposed cut edges.=20

Anyways, these are just my ramblings and speculation.   =20

Gia/Giacinta
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Andrea Gideon <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
    To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
    Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 3:52 AM
    Subject: H-COST: question regarding a picture
   =20
   =20
    This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years of Fashion" by =
Boucher.  The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian dress, but =
it doesn't have to be your focus.  Just look at the picture and give me =
your opinion.  The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. Bronzino)on =
page 230.  It appears that their is some sort of trim at the sleeves and =
down the skirt.  Normally I would have thought it was piping, but to me =
it looks like the line is broken at regular intervals.  Does this look =
like beading to anyone else?  Or what does it look like to you?
    Andrea

------=_NextPart_000_0048_01BF43B3.EDBF2FC0
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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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HTML//EN"><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>

</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Greetings!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I did something really scary just now!&nbsp; I went into my =
livingroom and=20
pulled out my Boucher *in the dark*!&nbsp; It's *funny* that I knew =
right off=20
where the book was..*LOL*!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Anyhow, to the question:&nbsp; The edge trimming that you are =
looking at is=20
a common treatment and you'll find it on other garments of the time as =
well;=20
Janet Arnold has a few pictures in her books with this treatment as =
well. Yes,=20
you are correct it is broken at intervals. I speculate that the trimming =
is=20
actually a piece of material (or ribbon or material folded on the =
*bias*) folded=20
in half, lengthwise, sewn on like piping, and then snipped at =
intervals.&nbsp;=20
Or it the material is snipped prior to sewing on, though I lean more =
towards=20
after it was sewn on.&nbsp; Or the trimming is made from individual mini =
tabs=20
that are sewn on one by one.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Now, the reason why I think the trimming is snipped after =
application is=20
based on the idea that cut edges unravel with a lot of handling, which =
is what=20
happens when you are doing sewing by hand.&nbsp; Unless the snip is =
treated with=20
gum arabic or other sealants.&nbsp; Or if the trimming is cut on the =
bias, then=20
the snips *generally* would not tend to unravel.&nbsp; I say generally, =
because=20
it would depend on the weave and finish whether or not the material =
would=20
unravel.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Or if it is made with individual tabs made with ribbon, then there =
would=20
not be any exposed cut edges.&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Anyways, these are just my ramblings and=20
speculation.&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT>&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Gia/Giacinta</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Andrea Gideon &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:ahgideon@earthlink.net">ahgideon@earthlink.net</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>To:=20
    </B>H-Costume &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>Dat=
e:=20
    </B>Saturday, December 11, 1999 3:52 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>H-COST: =
question=20
    regarding a picture<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is for anyone who has a copy of =
&quot;20,000 Years of=20
    Fashion&quot; by Boucher.&nbsp; The dress happens to be an =
Elizabethan era=20
    Italian dress, but it doesn't have to be your focus.&nbsp; Just look =
at the=20
    picture and give me your opinion.&nbsp; The picture is #466 =
(Laudonia de=20
    Medici by A. Bronzino)on page 230.&nbsp; It appears that their is =
some sort=20
    of trim at the sleeves and down the skirt.&nbsp; Normally I would =
have=20
    thought it was piping, but to me it looks like the line is broken at =
regular=20
    intervals.&nbsp; Does this look like beading to anyone else?&nbsp; =
Or what=20
    does it look like to you?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <017e01bf43f6$f0ec5860$0200a8c0@mamabear.stormypetrel.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 12:26:34 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

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  It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns of =
Fashion" there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is located =
on page 15. See number 84. If you look closely at the piping running =
down the center front of the doublet you can see that it is slashed. =
Also on page 26 number 169. The neck of the garment also has the same =
treatment. Good Luck with the garment.
  Carol Ross=20
  aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux


  This sounds good, but it apears to be smaller than on the Janet Arnold =
garment.  Also, how would you prevent it from fraying?  And, if it is =
slashed, than it must not be piping like I'm used to thinking of piping, =
a bias strip of fabric wrapped around a cord.  If so, the cord would =
work itself out of the casing.
  Andrea

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns =
of=20
  Fashion" there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is =
located on=20
  page 15. See number 84. If you look closely at the piping running down =
the=20
  center front of the doublet you can see that it is slashed. Also on =
page 26=20
  number 169. The neck of the garment also has the same treatment. Good =
Luck=20
  with the garment.</DIV>
  <DIV>Carol Ross </DIV>
  <DIV>aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2><STRONG>This sounds good, but it apears to be =
smaller than=20
  on the Janet Arnold garment.&nbsp; Also, how would you prevent it from =

  fraying?&nbsp; And, if it is slashed, than it must not be piping like =
I'm used=20
  to thinking of piping, a bias strip of fabric wrapped around a =
cord.&nbsp; If=20
  so, the cord would work itself out of the =
casing.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2><STRONG>Andrea</STRONG></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 04:26 PM 12/10/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> A Swedish princess who
>> tries will be sorry, I'm sure, but not fined or put in the stocks or
>> whatever.  However...
>
>FWIW, I doubt a Princess needs to worry about sumptuary laws, local or foreign.
>I might be mistaken, I often am, but weren't sumptuary laws for the nobility on
>down, not for royalty?


The Swedish Princess who visited Elizabeth's court  did cause a lot of
trouble, but I don't know if any of it was of a sumptuary nature.  She ran
up terrible bills, stayed far too long, and resorted to near blackmail to
get out of the country with her unpaid for purchases. And her husband was
worse.  

 She did get a bit of a slap down from Elizabeth:  in many records she is
referred to as the Lady Cecelia, rather than Princess Cecilia.  

I used to portray her at Ren Faire occasionally, and she was a hoot.  "May I
gif you vone of the medals that my brother, Eric the Mad, had made in
testimonial of my virginity, after I vas found naked in bed vith my brother
in law on his vedding night?"

Someone really should write a novel....

Margo


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From: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:36:04 -0600
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-Poster: "Genevieve de Courtanvaux" <gdc@airmail.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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You're correct about the cord.....I was thinking piping as in inset trim =
not as in have a cord in it....just two different view points of the =
same thing. :)
Carol Ross
aka Genevieve de Courtanvuax
  -----Original Message-----
  From: Andrea Gideon <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
  To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
  Date: Saturday, December 11, 1999 11:15 AM
  Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture





    It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns of =
Fashion" there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is located =
on page 15. See number 84. If you look closely at the piping running =
down the center front of the doublet you can see that it is slashed. =
Also on page 26 number 169. The neck of the garment also has the same =
treatment. Good Luck with the garment.
    Carol Ross=20
    aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux


    This sounds good, but it apears to be smaller than on the Janet =
Arnold garment.  Also, how would you prevent it from fraying?  And, if =
it is slashed, than it must not be piping like I'm used to thinking of =
piping, a bias strip of fabric wrapped around a cord.  If so, the cord =
would work itself out of the casing.
    Andrea

------=_NextPart_000_019A_01BF43CB.E83E91E0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN"><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV>You're correct about the cord.....I was thinking piping as in inset =
trim=20
not as in have a cord in it....just two different view points of the =
same thing.=20
:)</DIV>
<DIV>Carol Ross</DIV>
<DIV>aka Genevieve de Courtanvuax</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
  </B>Andrea Gideon &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:ahgideon@earthlink.net">ahgideon@earthlink.net</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>To:=20
  </B><A href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A> =
&lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:h-costume@indra.com">h-costume@indra.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>Dat=
e:=20
  </B>Saturday, December 11, 1999 11:15 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: =
H-COST:=20
  question regarding a picture<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><BR></DIV>
    <DIV>It is piping that has been slashed. In Janet Arnold's "Patterns =
of=20
    Fashion" there is an extant piece that also has this look. It is =
located on=20
    page 15. See number 84. If you look closely at the piping running =
down the=20
    center front of the doublet you can see that it is slashed. Also on =
page 26=20
    number 169. The neck of the garment also has the same treatment. =
Good Luck=20
    with the garment.</DIV>
    <DIV>Carol Ross </DIV>
    <DIV>aka Genevieve de Courtanvaux</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2><STRONG>This sounds good, but it apears to be =
smaller than=20
    on the Janet Arnold garment.&nbsp; Also, how would you prevent it =
from=20
    fraying?&nbsp; And, if it is slashed, than it must not be piping =
like I'm=20
    used to thinking of piping, a bias strip of fabric wrapped around a=20
    cord.&nbsp; If so, the cord would work itself out of the=20
    casing.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2><STRONG>Andrea</STRONG></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></=
BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 12:29:45 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 19:46:46 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

I agree totally on this:

Bjarne Drews

AlbertCat@aol.com skrev:

> -Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/11/1999 6:42:15 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> ahgideon@earthlink.net writes:
>
>  <<Another vote for tri-corn or bi-corn men's hats.
>
> Bite your tongue....these are both fantastic styles....of course capable of
> being ugly but mostly they look great. They're a standard for a century!
>
> >>Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
>  already, why make it huge?
>
> Keep biting! Bustles no more make one's butt look big than panniers make
> one's hips look big. What they do make one look like is that one is wearing
> some kind of hooped or padded underpinning to support skirts. I ask you, does
> anyone over 6 years old ever think these things are flesh???
>
> Now if you REALLY want to complain about these things, think:
>
> High waisted panniers....like with an Empire gown....it happened! or....
> The dropped waisted version of the same thing in the 1920's
>
> Now THESE were mistakes! [like the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late
> 1980s or the "grunge look"] and blessedly didn't last long at all. [also like
> the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 1980s or the "grunge look"]
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <LPBBKNMJBFAPBEPPLOBJAEEMCEAA.madilayn@one.net.au>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-point to resource?
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:24:37 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

Megan,
   I didn't recall the address  when I made the post because it had been so
long ago. We printed it off of Drea's site.
http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/sumptuary.html

  I hope it is still up. My copy was printed June 4th of 99.

Michelle



>
> -Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
>
> Mchelle
>
> Can you please post the site with the Sumptary Laws on it?  (or sent it
> privately to me if you like)
>
> Have a terrific Day
>
> Megan
>
> Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
> ICQ #  57164109
> Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn
>
> Visit D'Realm of the Fairies:  http://www.thesitefights.com/fairies
>
> Do you fight?  http://www.thesitefighs.com
>
>
>
> >
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 13:12:49 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

Mom and I have had many a conversation, or complain-fest, about that look
associated with the 'tough' gang boys. The pants are so loose that they slid
down, barely being held by the largest part of the rear. The crotch is
somewhere around the knees. Then, because they are being worn improperly,
the boys chop the bottom of the pants off, so they don't trip on the things.
These kids walk around with their boxers showing and can't do anything but a
snailpaced walk without losing their pants. I have seen these guys walking
across the street with one hand on their pants to pull them back up with
every step. Goodness, if they did end up in a fight, they'd lose simply
because of their dumb fashion sense.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 14:10:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:57:13 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: Re: H-COST: Banyan question
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

At 09:34 PM 12/9/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
>
>No the is only one on page 83 xxx111 dated 1750.
>They are built like the coats of the period and can be rather elaborate
>
>Dawn

Thanks!  Well, we'll see which one I get around to making... (grin)

Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 14:10:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 19:29:42 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sewing Hells (was: costume business)
In-Reply-To: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E63784D2497@scl-exch.phoenix.co
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

At 01:01 PM 12/10/99 -0800, Cynthia Barnes wrote:
>I will only barter my costume services for someone else svcs.  Not money.  I
>figure an hour for something I'm good at vs. an hour for something you're
>good at is fair.  I've had a few say they'd rather pay.  I'm not willing to
>go pro & take a pay cut. Instead, I jokingly offer that they can pay my
>regular silicon valley S/W engineer hourly rate.  Somehow, they just laugh.
>Historically & today, people just aren't willing to pay seamstresses &
>tailors.  Maybe if I called myself a Fabric Engineer?

LOL!  My hubby has the same problem.  He makes a pretty good wage in his
'real' job, and when people ask him how much it would cost them to have him
make something in his woodworking shop, he just laughs and tells them they
can't afford his hourly rate.  He does make stuff for friends, however
(small stuff) -- IF he ever gets around to it.

Personally, I only sew for others for barter or gifts.  I've tried sewing
for money, and I just can't do it.  I'm too much of a perfectionist to
spend as little time on a project as would make it economically feasible.

Cheers,
Mara

Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 14:10:32 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:58:56 -0500
To: dawn.wood1@virgin.net
From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
Cc: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

At 09:30 PM 12/9/99 -0800, Dawn wrote:
>I agree. My society re-enactes the Jacobite rebellion in the Uk.
>It is now recognised that the 'tartans' are local weaves and dyes just
>as in most countries. these just happen to be of stripes and checks
>which were popular 18thc fabric designs anyway, Tartans as we know them
>are a victorian idea.
>Dawn

Dawn,
Which group are you with?  My hubby just sent me some links to a group or
two doing Jacobite reenactment in the U.K.  It would be interesting to
compare costume notes <g>!

Cheers,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 14:51:27 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 14:10:33 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>


> Mom and I have had many a conversation, or complain-fest, about that look
> associated with the 'tough' gang boys. The pants are so loose that they
slid
> down, barely being held by the largest part of the rear. The crotch is
> somewhere around the knees. Then, because they are being worn improperly,
> the boys chop the bottom of the pants off, so they don't trip on the
things.
> These kids walk around with their boxers showing and can't do anything but
a
> snailpaced walk without losing their pants. I have seen these guys walking
> across the street with one hand on their pants to pull them back up with
> every step. Goodness, if they did end up in a fight, they'd lose simply
> because of their dumb fashion sense.

I can't stand this style personally. Doesn't it make you want to walk up to
these kids and just pull their pants down?!  I also don't care the 80s
ripped clothing (especially the t-shirts) or for the big spiral hair (with
the wings), huge hoop, bad make up, and bubble gum of the late 80s.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 14:55:01 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 14:14:28 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> huge hoop, bad make up, and bubble gum of the late 80s.

Oops. That was huge hoop earrings. It was popular to where them so they
touched the shoulder.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 19:51:37 1999
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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Version.32.19991210192525.00d79df0@saltmine.radix.net>
Subject: H-COST: Need Book recommendation for 1600-1800's
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 19:10:43 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

I have an aquaintence who is looking for recommendations for a Herbert
Norris type book for later periods 1600-1800s.  Anyone recomend one in
particular?

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/11/99 3:11:39 PM Central Standard Time, 
heather@herb-lore.com writes:

<<  Doesn't it make you want to walk up to
 these kids and just pull their pants down?! >>

Oh, yes.  I don't like that style.  When their pants are to long because of 
that or what ever reason my husand says they like the walk the couple of 
inches off instead of hem them.
I don't like the platform shoes either.  I am also getting sick of the women 
wearing shirts with their bras showing.  Plus neon colors.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 21:24:36 -0600
From: Linda Thompson <lthompsn@sound.net>
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-Poster: Linda Thompson <lthompsn@sound.net>

How I bill:
I do a consult: Determine if I am providing the fabric or if fabric is
provided. (I encourage them to purchase their own fabrics/trims etc).
If  I provide it, then I have to charge sales tax since it is considered
a retail sale if I provide the source materials.  If they buy the stuff
elsewhere and I simply create the clothing, then it is considered a
service.
Anyway, during the consult, I price everything, down to individual
buttons if need be, discuss everything in detail and have them sign a
contract that clearly states, any changes will change the agreed upon
price.
I request 50% down, and payments each fitting, with the last appointment
paid in full.  Make absolutely NO compromise on this one.  The only
times I have eaten the cost of something is when I have allowed someone
to not pay up front.  They almost always have an excuse why they can not
pay it on the agreed upon date if you aren't diligent in keeping to the
agreed contract.
It is not easy sometimes, especially if you are a sucker for a sad
story, I know this from experience....
If they start out at the beginning sort of whining about the price of
things, simply declare that perhaps they might like to think about it
for a while and show them the door.  Do not try to convince someone that
it is worth it, and don't listen to them complain.  If you have to, then
you will probably not have a good working relationship with this person
in the long run.
Some items are a set price, and some I still have to estimate.
I try to get $15.00 per hour (above any of my costs).  And I usually
come out close, although I still have a tendency to underestimate the
elaborate pieces.

Hope this helped

Linda
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 22:26:09 1999
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From: "Sandy McDaniel" <fretknot@home.com>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Clothing Mistakes.
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 21:40:10 -0700
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-Poster: "Sandy McDaniel" <fretknot@home.com>

I just spent 3 days in jury selection (wasn't chosen) during which I spent a
lot of time out in the hallways of the Courts bldg. There was much tooing
and froing of well-dressed women whose professions could be
discerned by skirt length: Classic style, knee length= attorney. Micro-mini,
current fashion= T.V. reporter.


"Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au> Wrote:
I agree about the wheel farthingale, but my alltime hate is the current
trend for Micro Mini skirts (as in Ally McBeal).

You have to have perfect legs to wear them and look good, but they are just
plain not business-like or professional for work wear (and yes - I know
people who do wear them for work).

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 11 23:48:01 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com> <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com> <004801bf4410$c91008e0$af57fea9@gunsafes> <001401bf4424$8c171e60$0101a8c0@f1>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 22:24:51 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

> I can't stand this style personally. Doesn't it make you want to walk up
to
> these kids and just pull their pants down?!

Absolutely!  Both mom and I have done it to a couple of boys.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 08:21:26 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 08:33:53 -0600
From: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>
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-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>

Not only that but have you ever tried to sit in one?  I wore mine once
(it is a cute suit, worse my mother bought it for me :}). Everytime I
stood up I knew I was flashing somebody. I found a new skirt and still
wear the jacket, but without an extention the skirt will never again
leave my closet.

Nic

Sandy McDaniel wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Sandy McDaniel" <fretknot@home.com>
> 
> I just spent 3 days in jury selection (wasn't chosen) during which I spent a
> lot of time out in the hallways of the Courts bldg. There was much tooing
> and froing of well-dressed women whose professions could be
> discerned by skirt length: Classic style, knee length= attorney. Micro-mini,
> current fashion= T.V. reporter.
> 
> "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au> Wrote:
> I agree about the wheel farthingale, but my alltime hate is the current
> trend for Micro Mini skirts (as in Ally McBeal).
> 
> You have to have perfect legs to wear them and look good, but they are just
> plain not business-like or professional for work wear (and yes - I know
> people who do wear them for work).
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 08:21:55 1999
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-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>

Well I do it to my own son, he picked a pair of them up somewhere and
when he brought them home he was warned. Needless to say he doesn't wear
them very often and never out in public with me.

Nic 

Michelle wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
> 
> > I can't stand this style personally. Doesn't it make you want to walk up
> to
> > these kids and just pull their pants down?!
> 
> Absolutely!  Both mom and I have done it to a couple of boys.
> 
> Michelle
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 09:20:37 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 09:52:47 -0600
From: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

>  I found a new skirt and still
> wear the jacket, but without an extention the skirt will never again
> leave my closet.
>
> Nic

Never say never.  Find yourself a cute 8 year old who wants a suit skirt the right
length.   I thought that full slips made fabulous evening dresses...

-Magdalena

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 16:54:39 1999
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: "H-COST" <h-costume@indra.com>, "SCA-Garb" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Subject: H-COST: Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:06:59 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>





For those interested the long awaited reprint of _Fashion in the Age of the
Black Prince_ by Stella Marie Newton, has finally hit the book store
shelves.  I know some people have it backordered through Barnes and Noble.
I picked up my copy at Powell's on Saturday.  They have three copies left at
$35.  I looked at the B&N price, factored in the shipping cost, and decided
it was worth it to me to have it in my hot little hands NOW! :-)

Regina Romsey, OL

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 17:13:43 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: getting rid of year-end Inventory
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:32:55 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Hi guys,
I have several items that I am willing to part with for about 1/2 of the 
regular price, including mostly women's 18th century work clothing, infants' 
items, a few pairs of 18th c. women's shoes, and other basics.  If anyone is 
interested in perusing the list of items for sale, please e-mail me 
privately.  I will send a list back directly to you as an attachment (or if 
your e-mail provider does not like attachments, let me know and I will copy 
it directly into the body of the e-mail).  I would like to get rid of 
everything I can before the end of the year because in Virginia I have to 
pay tax on unsold items in my business inventory.

Thanks,
Susannah

"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
  --William Morris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 17:46:31 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I'm teaching a friend to sew... we started by her watching my cut out
the ghost costume for her son at Halloween... and then I walked her
through sewing most of it (I did a tricky part).  I vocalized all my
tips & tricks and she told me later that she'd learned more from that
one session than all the sewing classes and other folx trying for years
to teach her to sew.  I must say... that really made my day!  I've had a
few friends take me up on the "no charge if I'm just helping you" offer
over the years... but most of them decide they don't *really* need the
costume, go elsewhere or ante up the money for me to "just do it!".

Kat
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

Any average size women's 18th cen shoes?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 19:07:21 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

Oops....didn't mean to clutter up the list with that one. Sorry.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 19:34:04 1999
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From: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume fashion mistakes
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-Poster: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>

The 70s.  I didn't like the clothing then as a kid, and I don't like it now.
You KNOW it's a bad fashion if 4 year olds are refusing to get dressed
'cause their clothers are so ugly.

Marsha/Madinia
 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 20:00:58 1999
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From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com> <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com> <004801bf4410$c91008e0$af57fea9@gunsafes> <001401bf4424$8c171e60$0101a8c0@f1>
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

Okay, I have to jump in with my "yucky" list, too:

1.  The "style" of boys and girls who wear their pants longer than their
shoes, so they are stepping on the back of their pants legs, which
eventually shred, split and get trashy.  This is a major "hit" here in
Nothern VA among the mall crowd.

2.  Suffocatingly tight polyester girls' shirts and sweaters that bare
the midrif--this "look" is particularly gross when the midrif is bulging
out over the pants.  Makes it look like the girls are squashed sausage.

3. The new "peekaboo" underwear rage -- let your pants hang on your hips
so we can all ogle your boxers (girls do this, too).

And what is it with the colors now?  Everything in our "teens" or
"juniors" sections in the mall is fairly monochrome.  Its either all
khakis and browns or it is all blacks and greys.  Borrrr-ing.  The young
"in" crowd looks like lumps of day-old mashed potatoes or something the
rag bin threw up.  Give me women in tailored dresses a la' Grace Kelley
or men in linen or tweed suits a la' Cary Grant any day.

My two cents,
Jennie
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 20:09:05 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 20:45:03 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fw: taffeta?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>> > Do you have any idea if taffeta is a period fabric (for mid-1400s?)
>
>I would say yes.  It was sometimes known as shot silk.  Hmmm, I should
>say that changeable taffeta (aka shot silk) was period.  It is a simple
>plain weave, using one color for the warp and one color for the weft.
>Now, I don't have any documentation at my fingertips or even at arms
>length, but it seems to me, in my memory bank, that this is so.

I don't know about 15th century but there are numerous references in 16th
stuff to "chaungeble taffete" and "taffeta"  (lots of difference
spellings).  Try QE's Wardrobe or Lost From Her Majesty's Back or Stubbes.

Mind you I seem to remember seeing some 15th century Italian stuff in shot
textiles.  Oh, don't forget all the pictures of the ancestor's of Christ on
the ceiling/walls of the Cistine Chapel.  A large portion of them are
portrayed in shot texitle clothing.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 20:09:33 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 21:20:17 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 06:58  11/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years of Fashion" by Boucher.
The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian dress, but it doesn't
have to be your focus.  Just look at the picture and give me your opinion.
The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. Bronzino)on page 230.  It
appears that their is some sort of trim at the sleeves and down the skirt.
Normally I would have thought it was piping, but to me it looks like the
line is broken at regular intervals.  Does this look like beading to anyone
else?  Or what does it look like to you?
Andrea


Greetings,

I always thought that the trim was a slashed piping for lack of a better
description.  Kind of like what you see along the neckline of Elizabeth's
"phoniex portrait."  A woman I know reproduced the the Phoenix gown and
what she did was used lots of little tabs of ribbon.  It was labour
intensive but worked well.

Does anyone know of a larger colour copy of the portrait in Boucher?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 20:10:33 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume fashion mistakes
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/12/99 6:54:25 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
msmclean@interlog.com writes:

<< The 70s.  I didn't like the clothing then as a kid, and I don't like it 
now.
 You KNOW it's a bad fashion if 4 year olds are refusing to get dressed
 'cause their clothers are so ugly. >>
 

Looked bad then and looks even worse now that it has gone retro.  I get to 
see it every day on my college students who think they look divine in hideous 
print polyester.         

Cheryl
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

In a message dated 99-12-10 17:39:42 EST, you write:

> First off, thank you all for reading and responding to my initial question.
>  
>  The time period is 1600, the area is England. The person is a very, very
>  wealthy visiting merchant from Germany.  How would the sumptuary laws been
>  applied?

In 1600 you are at the end of Elizabeth I's reign.  She attempted through 
various proclamations during her reign to enforce the sumptuary laws as laid 
out under the reign of her father and her sister Mary, who preceded her as 
Queen of England. 
While I am still looking for a specific reference, it is my memory that in 
England the penalty for breaking sumptuary laws were stiff fines paid to the 
crown.   To what extent these laws would be applied to someone visiting or 
not, is another question.  My references suggest that the law was very 
difficult to enforce, even on the English themselves.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 20:58:19 1999
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

In a message dated 99-12-10 20:04:04 EST, you write:

> I catch the bus with a lady who wears them soo short that when she sits
>  down, she is not actually sitting on her skirt!
>  
And to top it off, she probably screams "harassment" if anyone happens to 
leer at her legs.  As far as I'm concerned, if you don't want it stared at, 
don't advertise it. 

Just my 2.5 cents.

Pamela D.
( who can't even think up her own snappy ending, but has to steal 
maggiess....rats!!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 21:34:07 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 19:54:08 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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References: <6451453.944858841946.JavaMail.imail@patti.excite.com> <385169EF.6B69A697@serv.net> <003b01bf43ce$2e8bc8a0$f8d7f4d1@pavilion>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

> Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
> already, why make it huge?

Well, for starters - with that huge bustle hanging behind you (think
1880's) no one can tell exactly how BIG *your* butt really is.  Like
Albert says, no one really buys that that huge extension is really flesh
any more than paniers or hoopskirts are.  Can you imagine someone really
being shaped like a hoop?

Carolyn (avowed bustle lover)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 21:35:39 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 22:48:33 -0500
From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

We got to attend a sneak preview of this film last night, and the
costumes were quite drool-worthy, particularly those for the Siamese
king and his entourage.  WOW!  I loved Jodie Foster's outfits as well.
The tailoring was superb, and it looked like she had on all the correct
undergarments (you could tell she used two different corsets, and you
could see her chemise and corset cover through some of the gowns).  Her
ballgown was a major drool, though it might have been a bit fanciful as
far as fabric went--I'd have to see it again.  Her day dresses and hats
looked like they were lifted straight out of Godey's.

The movie was very beautifully done, though the story was a little on
the "mushy" side if you go in expecting a Yul Brenner type of king
(bold, strident, stubborn, but fun).  Still, the chemistry between
Foster and Yun-Fat was tangible and bittersweet--if a little weird.  If
for no other reason, go to see the robe the king wears when he and his
family are fleeing on the boat -- it's made of netting with fabulous
gold braided trim in a dazzling design.  Knocked my socks off. I'd
imagine this film will be up for some Oscars in the design category
(sets are splendid, too).

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com> <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com> <004801bf4410$c91008e0$af57fea9@gunsafes> <001401bf4424$8c171e60$0101a8c0@f1> <3854564C.F0B1B45C@rica.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Jennie Chancey wrote:

> And what is it with the colors now?  Everything in our "teens" or
> "juniors" sections in the mall is fairly monochrome.  Its either all
> khakis and browns or it is all blacks and greys.  Borrrr-ing. 

Weird - they just opened a new "Limited Too" store in the mall near my
office and everything there is either orange, bright yellow, hot pink or
lime green.  *Not* an improvement over browns, blacks and khakis, IMO. 
The place looks like a fruit stand gone amok.

My fashion peeve - TATOOS and body piercing.  They look bad on men or
women - particularly as you get older.  I occasionally want to ask
people who have those tatoo necklaces done what they think it will look
like when they're 70 <shudder>.  At least piercing will grow back if you
let it.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 21:54:43 1999
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-Poster: Ron Carnegie <rcarnegie@widomaker.com>

At 07:59 PM 12/12/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
>
>
>
>Jennie Chancey wrote:
>
>> And what is it with the colors now?  Everything in our "teens" or
>> "juniors" sections in the mall is fairly monochrome.  Its either all
>> khakis and browns or it is all blacks and greys.  Borrrr-ing. 
>
>Weird - they just opened a new "Limited Too" store in the mall near my
>office and everything there is either orange, bright yellow, hot pink or
>lime green.  *Not* an improvement over browns, blacks and khakis, IMO. 
>The place looks like a fruit stand gone amok.
>
I was wondering about that to.  A huge number of school kids come through
where I work, and I though bright colours seemed most typical.

Cheers,
Ron Carnegie
rcarnegie@widomaker.com
	*************************************************
	"The poetry of history lies in the quasi-miraculous fact that
	 once on this earth, on this familiar spot of ground walked
	 other men and women as actual as we are today, thinking
	 their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions but now
	 all gone, vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we 
	 ourselves shall be gone like ghosts at cockcrow."
				G.M. Trevelyan
	*************************************************

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 12 22:14:09 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Are you referring to those necklaces that look like tatoos?  These are a
stretchy plastic and choker length.  I am around a lot of teenagers <high
school and college> and haven't seen anyone with tatoos that look like a
necklace.

Later...Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

> My fashion peeve - TATOOS and body piercing.  They look bad on men or
> women - particularly as you get older.  I occasionally want to ask
> people who have those tatoo necklaces done what they think it will look
> like when they're 70 <shudder>.  At least piercing will grow back if you
> let it.
>
> Carolyn


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References: <19991028024646.39300.qmail@hotmail.com> <38546C8F.D9A7D71C@rica.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Anna and the King" Costumes
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-Poster: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>


----- Original Message -----
From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 10:48 PM
>
> We got to attend a sneak preview of this film last night, and the
> costumes were quite drool-worthy, particularly those for the Siamese
> king and his entourage.  WOW!  I loved Jodie Foster's outfits as well.

Ooh, ooh, I'm glad you posted this Jennie!   I'm sitting out here wrapping
up my shopping online and it reminded me of something I wanted to pass along
to everyone on the list. :-D

If anyone is in the Philadelphia area....Lord and Taylor's downtown
 they're on Market St. I believe(?)) will be giving away free tickets to the
movie tomorrow beginning at noon, and they'll have the actual ballgown on
display at the store.  =)

I may try to waddle into the city for a peek if I can find a pair of shoes
to fit my poor puffed up feet. ;-)

Enjoy!
Kerrie

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Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 23:41:46 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/12/99 8:21:14 PM Central Standard Time, 
jchancey@rica.net writes:

<< Give me women in tailored dresses a la' Grace Kelley
 or men in linen or tweed suits a la' Cary Grant any day.
  >>

Oh, now that was a good style period.  I have AMC and love to watch the old 
movies for the fashion of them.  I live in a country setting and jeans or 
sweats with t-shirts are the norm.  People do dress up for Sunday Church 
though.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 03:12:01 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

According to the description on page 228 it is embroidered with pearls.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On



-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 06:58  11/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
This is for anyone who has a copy of "20,000 Years of Fashion" by Boucher.
The dress happens to be an Elizabethan era Italian dress, but it doesn't
have to be your focus.  Just look at the picture and give me your opinion.
The picture is #466 (Laudonia de Medici by A. Bronzino)on page 230.  It
appears that their is some sort of trim at the sleeves and down the skirt.
Normally I would have thought it was piping, but to me it looks like the
line is broken at regular intervals.  Does this look like beading to anyone
else?  Or what does it look like to you?
Andrea



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 02:00:31 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: "Anna and the King" Costumes
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 03:11:51 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

The King and his family fleeing??? This isn't the story I know.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Jennie Chancey


-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

We got to attend a sneak preview of this film last night, and the
costumes were quite drool-worthy, particularly those for the Siamese
king and his entourage.    Still, the chemistry between
Foster and Yun-Fat was tangible and bittersweet--if a little weird.  If
for no other reason, go to see the robe the king wears when he and his
family are fleeing on the boat -- it's made of netting with fabulous
gold braided trim in a dazzling design.  Knocked my socks off. I'd
imagine this film will be up for some Oscars in the design category
(sets are splendid, too).

Cheers,
Jennie Chancey
--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 02:07:17 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 03:19:33 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

If you find the reference could you post it please? I'm trying to look up
some Sumptuary laws for that time.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On

-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

In a message dated 99-12-10 17:39:42 EST, you write:


In 1600 you are at the end of Elizabeth I's reign.  She attempted through
various proclamations during her reign to enforce the sumptuary laws as laid
out under the reign of her father and her sister Mary, who preceded her as
Queen of England.
While I am still looking for a specific reference, it is my memory that in
England the penalty for breaking sumptuary laws were stiff fines paid to the
crown.   To what extent these laws would be applied to someone visiting or
not, is another question.  My references suggest that the law was very
difficult to enforce, even on the English themselves.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 02:32:10 1999
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From: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: sumptuary laws.
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-Poster: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>

Can't remember the source, but I read somewhere that the sumptuary laws in
England (at least during Elizabeth's time) were just a form of indirect
taxation. Wear what you chose and pay the fine. Sounds a bit like my girl's
jeans day at school. Pay 50p and wear your jeans.
bye
Joy

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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:51:13 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

> --Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
> 
> What is your least favorite fashion frivolity? Mine is the c.1830's
> American women's sleeves. They look to me like linebackers in lace!
> And it made thier heads, to my eye, look way too tiny. Perhaps some
> women can carry this look, but I sure can't! 
> 
> Kate

Mine is those lateish 17th century petticoat-britches.... 
<shudder!>.  On their own they are bad enough but with the huge 
puff of shirt between the waist of them and the bottom of the 
"doublet" they are simply horrible.

Mind you, you never know what the "modern-eye" is going to 
interpret strangely.  On Saturday, I was in a 1630's suit (the group I 
don English Civil War re-enactment with were having a get-together 
in a pub in Southend-on-Sea) and the landlady of the guest-house 
we were staying in asked if we were "in drag" - must have been the 
lace around mu collar and cuffs....<g>.

At least the people we encountered in the twon itself recognized 
the period enough to call out things like "All for one and one for all".


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>

Now there is a nice period for clothing.  Touche :)

Nic

Teddy wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> 
> > --Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
> >
> > What is your least favorite fashion frivolity? Mine is the c.1830's
> > American women's sleeves. They look to me like linebackers in lace!
> > And it made thier heads, to my eye, look way too tiny. Perhaps some
> > women can carry this look, but I sure can't!
> >
> > Kate
> 
> Mine is those lateish 17th century petticoat-britches....
> <shudder!>.  On their own they are bad enough but with the huge
> puff of shirt between the waist of them and the bottom of the
> "doublet" they are simply horrible.
> 
> Mind you, you never know what the "modern-eye" is going to
> interpret strangely.  On Saturday, I was in a 1630's suit (the group I
> don English Civil War re-enactment with were having a get-together
> in a pub in Southend-on-Sea) and the landlady of the guest-house
> we were staying in asked if we were "in drag" - must have been the
> lace around mu collar and cuffs....<g>.
> 
> At least the people we encountered in the twon itself recognized
> the period enough to call out things like "All for one and one for all".
> 
> Teddy
> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> air and darkness, apparently!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

I loved this-thanks for sharing.


>
> -Poster: "Joy Shillaker" <joy@jonandjoy.freeserve.co.uk>
>
> Can't remember the source, but I read somewhere that the sumptuary laws in
> England (at least during Elizabeth's time) were just a form of indirect
> taxation. Wear what you chose and pay the fine. Sounds a bit like my
girl's
> jeans day at school. Pay 50p and wear your jeans.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 07:40:34 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 08:53:22 -0500
From: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: "Anna and the King" Costumes
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-Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>

The story has been altered a bit, as you will see!  Quite different from
Anna Leonowens' diaries....  But the costumes are still fabulous!  ;-)

Connie Carroll wrote:

> -Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
>
> The King and his family fleeing??? This isn't the story I know.
>
> Kassandra
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Jennie Chancey
>
> -Poster: Jennie Chancey <jchancey@rica.net>
>
> We got to attend a sneak preview of this film last night, and the
> costumes were quite drool-worthy, particularly those for the Siamese
> king and his entourage.    Still, the chemistry between
> Foster and Yun-Fat was tangible and bittersweet--if a little weird.  If
> for no other reason, go to see the robe the king wears when he and his
> family are fleeing on the boat -- it's made of netting with fabulous
> gold braided trim in a dazzling design.  Knocked my socks off. I'd
> imagine this film will be up for some Oscars in the design category
> (sets are splendid, too).
>
> Cheers,
> Jennie Chancey
> --
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Sense and Sensibility
http://www.sensibility.com
winsome clothing with an old-fashioned appeal


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 07:40:41 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3.0.1.32.19991212212017.009cb6f0@mail.interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 09:12:21 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

> Greetings,
>
> I always thought that the trim was a slashed piping for lack of a better
> description.  Kind of like what you see along the neckline of Elizabeth's
> "phoniex portrait."  A woman I know reproduced the the Phoenix gown and
> what she did was used lots of little tabs of ribbon.  It was labour
> intensive but worked well.
>
> Does anyone know of a larger colour copy of the portrait in Boucher?
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
Just out of curiousity, do you know what kind and what size ribbon?  I'm
still in the planning stage for this dress.

BTW, I've been doing an extensive search all week to find a color photo.
I've found nothing on the WWW and the only books of his work are out of
print.  The only picture by him that I've found in various Florentine art
books is the one of Leanora of Toledo,  Most of his work is displayed in the
Uffizi, but this one is in a tiny museum.  My sister, who did a semester in
Florence, had never heard of it.  Some time this week I will try to hit the
local University library.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 07:45:04 1999
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From: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <NDBBKIFGIKMKADKCBKIEGEAPCAAA.Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: H-COST: Sumptuary Law Ref: was Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:04:39 -0700
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-Poster: "Dean Quackenbush" <deanq@paloverde.com>

This is what I have found-I have the first one on my Christmas wish list, it
looks the most comprehensive.  This is from Amazon.com.

Governance of the Consuming Passions : A History of Sumptuary Law
Alan Hunt / Hardcover / Published 1996
Our Price: $59.95

Sumptuary Legislation and Personal Regulation in England
Frances E. Baldwin / Hardcover / Published 1994
Our Price: $24.50

Costume and conduct in the laws of Basel, Bern, and Zurich, 1370-1800
John Martin Vincent


>
> If you find the reference could you post it please? I'm trying to look up
> some Sumptuary laws for that time.
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 08:51:33 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re: bustles
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I like bustles too. They don't make the behind look big -- they make the 
waist look small. I think they look(ed) great on large women!

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 10:34:08 1999
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From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  > > A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity?
>  >
>  One vote for the huge wigs just prior to the French revolution.
>  Another vote for tri-corn or bi-corn men's hats.
>  Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
>  already, why make it huge?

Another fashion error I had nearly forgotten about is the engraving I saw of
a court dress, empire waist with panne(sp?), which strongly resembled
wearing a twinbed mattress, sideways. It took me several minutes to recover
myself, I was laughing so hard.

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 10:59:37 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 11:23:36 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> > Now THESE were mistakes! [like the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late
> > 1980s or the "grunge look"] and blessedly didn't last long at all. [also like
> > the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 1980s or the "grunge look"]

Now, hang on!  I liked the grunge look!  It meant I really could wear
clothes from my bedroom floor to school, and didn't even necessarily have
to brush my hair!

(okay, so maybe not the look, but the benefits of it...)
Emma

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 11:03:51 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

 A woman I know reproduced the the Phoenix gown and
>> what she did was used lots of little tabs of ribbon.  It was labour
>> intensive but worked well.
>>
>>
>Just out of curiousity, do you know what kind and what size ribbon?  I'm
>still in the planning stage for this dress.
>

The Phoenix portrait shows the tabs around the neckline as aproximately 1"
wide, with a narrow gold edging on each edge. they appear to be of the same
fabric as the dress.   You could use ribbon, but self fabric tubes with
applied trim would also work and would probably be more appropriate.

I don't find tabs to be extremely time consuming, especially within the
overall context of the project.  I usually make up the tab material in long
strips and cut it to size after.

For slashed piping, I use bias strips and apply it like ordinary piping, but
without the cording.  Sometimes I use bias folds stitched on top of the
fabric, rather than inserted into a seam.  This is good when using it as
applied trim, such as multiple rows around a sleeve cuff or on an overskirt.
I slash it with scissors after it's sewn on.  Taffeta, silk, tightly woven
cotten, and other firm fabrics work well. 

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 11:07:41 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

In my opinion, the hands down ugliest fashion is that worn by those Spanish
Infantas in the 17th centuy; 6'  wide panniered skirt that makd them look
like sofas, long waisted flatly corseted torso, and frizzed out hair with a
dog-show contest ribbon tacked on the side.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 11:32:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 11:50:04 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
In-Reply-To: <0.b6567a28.25831048@aol.com>
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 09:26 PM 12/10/99 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
>
>
>
>The thing I can't stand is those Napoleon era men's collars that covered
>men's chins. I've seen a few in movies that made me think, "Oh -- so THAT was
>the idea." But I bet they were mostly hideous, like stretch pants so often
>are today. But to each his own -- I like those 1830s sleeves!
>
>Gail Finke
Speaking of the 1830s sleeves--I caught part of "Les Miserables", the movie 
with Liam Neeson & Geoffrey Rush, and the sleeves on some of those dresses 
weren't as large as the fashion illustrations portray them to be.   I 
started to wonder if the illustrators of that time (and any others) 
exaggerated proportions of certain details or body areas, i. e. the 
illustrators of today elongating the legs to get a more slender, taller 
look.  Could those sleeves have been exaggerated in the same way?  And what 
would that mean for the accuracy of those sources?

Just musing out loud--it's Finals Week here,
Doris

Doris Nash   Ames, IA
Feed hungry children around the world--free!  Visit 
http://thehungersite.com to find out how.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 12:09:53 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 13:26:19 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Anna and the King" Costumes
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 12/12/1999 7:55:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
jchancey@rica.net writes:
<< Her  ballgown was a major drool, though it might have been a bit fanciful 
as
 far as fabric went--I'd have to see it again. >>
I've only seen clips, but it (the ballgown) looked almost too youthful to me. 
I'm guessing it didn't come across that way when given a better look.  Also, 
was it just me, or does Jodie Foster have the worst fake British accent of 
all time in that film?

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
"All the world's a stage, 
and all the men and women merely players.
They have their exits and their entrances; 
and one man in his time plays many parts."
W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 14:13:41 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Icelandic Nepalese Sherpa Socks
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 12:23:20 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


This is too silly not to share w/ an appreciative audience. I found a pair
of "Icelandic Nepalese Sherpa Socks" listed on REI's website. So what I
wanna know, is how the sherpas got from Iceland to Nepal.

http://www.rei.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=46351&prmenbr=8
000

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 14:38:59 1999
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From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: 2 Inventories!
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 12:56:59 PST
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-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>

Please excuse the list posting --there were too many to write back to 
individually --

Hi guys,
Since most of you who wrote me about receiving my Year-End Inventory list 
prefer receiving the list in the body of an e-mail (not as an attachment), 
please look for an e-mail tonight from me --but I will be sending it from 
work, so it will be from a different e-mail address --I will put "Year-End 
Inventory" in the subject line.  I need to do it this way to save time 
--I'll be sending it out to everyone at once, directly to the e-mail address 
they gave me.
If anyone else is interested, I will continue to do the same over the next 
few days until everyone has been replied to.

btw, I *am* responding individually to everyone who is interested in the Old 
Store Stock (the other inventory sale I am involved with!), and I still have 
alot to respond to.  Bear with me, I promise you will hear from me very 
soon.
Thanks, everyone for your interest!

Susannah


>From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: getting rid of year-end Inventory
>Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:32:55 PST
>
>
>-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi guys,
>I have several items that I am willing to part with for about 1/2 of the
>regular price, including mostly women's 18th century work clothing, 
>infants'
>items, a few pairs of 18th c. women's shoes, and other basics.  If anyone 
>is
>interested in perusing the list of items for sale, please e-mail me
>privately.  I will send a list back directly to you as an attachment (or if
>your e-mail provider does not like attachments, let me know and I will copy
>it directly into the body of the e-mail).  I would like to get rid of
>everything I can before the end of the year because in Virginia I have to
>pay tax on unsold items in my business inventory.
>
>Thanks,
>Susannah
>
>"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
>  --William Morris
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>_________________________________________________________________
>To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 14:54:11 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: "Anna and the King" Costumes
In-Reply-To: <0.54aa33e5.2586944b@aol.com>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Mon, 13 Dec 1999 MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 12/12/1999 7:55:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
> jchancey@rica.net writes:
> << Her  ballgown was a major drool, though it might have been a bit fanciful 
> as
>  far as fabric went--I'd have to see it again. >>
> I've only seen clips, but it (the ballgown) looked almost too youthful to me. 
> I'm guessing it didn't come across that way when given a better look.  Also, 
> was it just me, or does Jodie Foster have the worst fake British accent of 
> all time in that film?
> 
Nope. Mary Poppins was on here the other night. I think that honour
must surely go to Dick Van Dyck (sp?). OT I realise....
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 15:22:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 13:39:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: New Italian Ren. fan
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

As as usually 14th-15th Century Anglo-Norman, I just
made and wore my first Italian Ren garb (actually, the
first garb I have ever personally made!).  It was not
strictly period; it was the Simplicity "Ever After"
pattern, but I fell in love with the full skirt, high
waist, and low neck (great for the "fuller" body type
and complemented one of my few good features!).  Now I
need directions to good books, web sites, movies, etc!
 I have "Ever After" and Zeferelli's "Romeo and
Juliet".  I don't need "strict" authenticity--just so
it looks pretty good.  Thanks.


=====
Morgaine of Glastonbury 
Barony of Aquaterra MoAS
Kingdom of An Tir
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

Don't take your organs to Heaven; Heaven knows we need them here.
__________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 16:00:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 17:12:33 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes 
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/13/1999 12:28:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< In my opinion, the hands down ugliest fashion is that worn by those Spanish
 Infantas in the 17th centuy; >>

See....I love the Infanta's outfits! I mean she ain't gonna be playing hop 
scotch in it. She IS the Infanta after all.

Court clothes have a special purpose and, like haut couture [sp] need not 
follow any practical rules. It's for a kind of effect that's perhaps hard for 
us to understand today. Anyway the Infanta's stuff....like Queen Elizabeth in 
a French farthingale the size of a tractor tire, low low pointed bodice, 
heart shaped collar the size of Virginia, and her ankles showing, works for 
some reason.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 17:19:16 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 09:36:32 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

> I  started to wonder if the illustrators of that time (and any others)
> exaggerated proportions of certain details or body areas, i. e. the
> illustrators of today elongating the legs to get a more slender, taller
> look.  Could those sleeves have been exaggerated in the same way?
>  And what  would that mean for the accuracy of those sources?

>From my research, I know that the piccys were exaggerated.  The sleeves were
big - but not that big!

A great book for research on that type of sleeve is "Costume in Detail -
Womens Dress 1730-1930" by Nancy Bradfield.

She was the costume curator at one of the English costume galleries
(Chasleton House - I think - can't remember) and had access to a number of
actual garments.

In the book, it is all technical drawings (including some measurements) of
these garments.

The main idea behind those sleeves was to make the waist look smaller - and
if you look at a lot of illustrations of that period (and of Regency
immediately before) you will see that the proportions are obviously
exaggerated (for the Regency stuff - look at the men especially).    One of
my fave drawings of the time shows a woman with "gigot" sleeves so big that
the total width would have been about the same as her height - and with a
waist so small that she looked like she would snap in two!  Much the same
effect as a Barbie Doll!

Unfortunately, fashion illustrators tended to exaggerate (and still do) the
human form - as their main idea was to show the clothing.

A good book with lots and lots of fashion illustrations is "The File Art of
Fashion- An Illustrated History" by Julian Robinson (Bay Books - ISBN 1
86256 3020).  All the illustrations in it were taken out of actual fashion
books, and posters of the time - and it goes right up to the 70's (goes to
show that the age of the colour photo didn't stop illustrators after all)

They are good as sources - but you would have to translate things into "real
life" - just as one has to do with a number of costume books.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

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>

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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 09:36:45 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Sorry to take so long to get back re this one.

In Nancy Bradfield's book "Costume in Detail" , she has a photo of the
effify of QEI from the '30's whilst it was being cleaned.

She makes note that the side hoops are from 1760, which was the last time
that the effigy was cleaned and re-dressed.

Hope that this helps.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 17:54:07 1999
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From: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
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Subject: H-COST: 13c buttons
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-Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>

I am about to start on my next project.....a blue velvet cotehardie.  I want to use silver buttons up the sleeves, and I need to know what kind of buttonhole was used.  Were they like our modern "shirtfront" style, or were they the loop kind, or perhaps something else?  This gown is going to be very special, so I want it to be right.
TIA

Linda

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 17:58:43 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> I am about to start on my next project.....a blue velvet cotehardie.  I want to use silver buttons up the sleeves, and I need to know what kind of buttonhole was used.  Were they like our modern "shirtfront" style, or were they the loop kind, or perhaps something else?  This gown is going to be very special, so I want it to be right.

The button holes were regular buttonholes sewn using the button hole stitch.  At this time, they didn't have the rounded edge at each end.  Just a row of buttonhold stitch on each side of the cut.  And FWIW, your gown is 14th century.  :)  I love blue velvet, sounds gorgeous.  Is it cotton or acetate?  That determines whether or not you
cut the holes before or after you stitch them simply because the acetate ravels easily.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> In Nancy Bradfield's book "Costume in Detail" , she has a photo of the
> effify of QEI from the '30's whilst it was being cleaned.
> 
> She makes note that the side hoops are from 1760, which was the last time
> that the effigy was cleaned and re-dressed.
While the hoops are from the 18th Century, the corset is from the 
early 17th C (contemporary with Elizabeth's death.) There is an 
article in a journal at the Westminster Abbey Library which discusses 
this. As Drea mentioned, Janet Arnold had something to do with it. 

However, I no longer have a copy of it that I can find and was unable 
to find a replacement copy the time to go to the WA Library when I 
was there. We didn't have time the day we went and it was closed when 
we went to do photography (as that is only allowed for a short period 
on Wednesday evenings.)

If one of our lucky Londoners could go find the article, I'm sure a 
number of us would be appreciative. (If I had the information on 
which journal it was in, with the date and page number, I could 
probably request a copy for study, as could Drea.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 22:15:05 -0500
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

Jennie Chancey wrote:

> And what is it with the colors now?  Everything in our "teens" or
> "juniors" sections in the mall is fairly monochrome.  Its either all
> khakis and browns or it is all blacks and greys.  Borrrr-ing.

Weird - they just opened a new "Limited Too" store in the mall near my
office and everything there is either orange, bright yellow, hot pink or
lime green.  *Not* an improvement over browns, blacks and khakis, IMO.
The place looks like a fruit stand gone amok.

>>Having been a teenager in the late 80's i remember everything being
brightly colored and very complicated (i.e., polka dots, trim, lace where it
ought not to be) and it was a RELIEF for me when everything went black in
the early-mid '90s. i still love that simple uncluttered look.

My fashion peeve - TATOOS and body piercing.  They look bad on men or
women - particularly as you get older.  I occasionally want to ask
people who have those tatoo necklaces done what they think it will look
like when they're 70 <shudder>.  At least piercing will grow back if you
let it.

>>this is a peeve of mine if folks are doing it for FASHION purposes. as a
multiple piercee i can tell you that even though they can grow back
together they do leave scars so its best NOT to plan on it being a temporary
"fashion" thing. as for when im 70 - they are for me and me alone. i'll only
take them out if they cause pain or if i look HIDEOUS. or maybe i'll show
them off just to scare everyone ;)
re: tattoos - i think the look is more popular than the reality. this
explains the plastic "tattoo" chokers and the popularity of mehindi (henna
body painting).

allison

Carolyn

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Subject: H-COST: Re: The King and I
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



RE: The King and I . . . or whatever they're calling it. They may have 
altered the story for the Jodie Foster pic, but they can't have altered it as 
much as they altered the musical for the cartoon film that was out this 
summer. From what I recall of the reviews, there were ninja-type bad guys, 
there was a chase in a hot air balloon, and there was only one son (a martial 
arts master sort of guy). The king and Anna got married, for all I know. I 
just couldn't bear to see it.

I wish people would just make up stories. Oops, wasn't that what the REAL 
Anna was supposed to have done?

Dying to see the costumes in this one!

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 21:32:06 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 19:52:13 -0800
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Kristen Morgaine Sieber wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
> 
> As as usually 14th-15th Century Anglo-Norman, I just
> made and wore my first Italian Ren garb (actually, the
> first garb I have ever personally made!).  It was not
> strictly period; it was the Simplicity "Ever After"
> pattern, but I fell in love with the full skirt, high
> waist, and low neck (great for the "fuller" body type
> and complemented one of my few good features!).  Now I
> need directions to good books, web sites, movies, etc!
>  I have "Ever After" and Zeferelli's "Romeo and
> Juliet".  I don't need "strict" authenticity--just so
> it looks pretty good.  Thanks.

There's not much I can recommend in the movie category (although my
personal favorite is Zefferelli's "Taming of the Shrew", but the
background costumes are better than the star's). "Dangerous Beauty" has
some good costumes on the background players as well but ignore what the
prostitutes are wearing.

Books - the best ones I can think of currently in print are the 2
volumes on Italian Ren frescoes.  They're big and pricy but gorgeously
illustrated.  For cheaper books, try finding the Riverside series on
various artists - I can recommend the one on Carpaccio.  There's also a
good book out called "Renaissance Portraits" by Lorne Campbell that has
some nice stuff (I've made the red dress on the jacket cover that was
painted by Raphael).

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 13 22:36:23 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

Um, ok, I have both piercings & tattoos. Have had them since the '80s days of
polka dots. Why exactly does that peeve you? It's a personal statement. The fact
that it's permanent IS the statement. I think the all-black uniform is very
convenient for those who aren't confident of their color-combining skills.
How is this related to historic costume?
I'm sorry but, this is beginning to be really OT.
~Lisa

 i still love that simple uncluttered look.

>
> My fashion peeve - TATOOS and body piercing.  They look bad on men or
> women - particularly as you get older.  I occasionally want to ask
> people who have those tatoo necklaces done what they think it will look
> like when they're 70 <shudder>.  At least piercing will grow back if you
> let it.

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Subject: Re: H-COST: clothing mistakes
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

Has anyone else noticed that most of the peeves are from the last 20 years
or so?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 02:55:34 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 04:31:57 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
In-Reply-To: <001401bf4424$8c171e60$0101a8c0@f1>
References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com>
 <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>> A question for y'all: What is your least favorite fashion frivolity?

Symmetrical shoes.  My big toe is the longest, so why is the pointy part
adjacent to my middle toe?  And why do shoes have to be pointy in the first
place?  And, since this is the 90's, why do shoes have to be so narrow?
And non-repairable, but so cheaply built they need repair soon after you
buy them?

snip

>I can't stand this style personally. Doesn't it make you want to walk up to
>these kids and just pull their pants down?!  

No - up! 

snip

Can you imagine someone really
>being shaped like a hoop?

I know a couple of women shaped like bum rolls.  In bum-roll-period dresses
they look splendid, but in modern clothes they look unfortunately butt-heavy.  

snip

>My fashion peeve - TATOOS and body piercing.  They look bad on men or
>women - particularly as you get older.  

If one wears sunscreen, the tattoos don't fade or get blurry.  If one takes
care of one's skin, it doesn't get wrinkly or sun-damaged and it, or
anything on it, looks better longer.

I had to choose the position of my first tattoo very carefully so I could
do Victorian eveningwear without it showing.  Likewise, any piercing I have
has to pass costume approval anywhere I do living history - by not showing
when I am historically dressed.

Some tattoos/piercings makes one look, as the Victorians would say, like
'mutton dressed as lamb'.  Some are things only a kid would do.  Others are
less inappropriate for us older folks.  For example, my teenager is
contemplating getting her lip pierced, trendy for that age group, but her
friends all think my pierced eyebrow is 'cool'.

snip

>> > Now THESE were mistakes! [like the torn up, full o' holes knits of the
late
>> > 1980s or the "grunge look"] and blessedly didn't last long at all. [also 
>like
>> > the torn up, full o' holes knits of the late 1980s or the "grunge look"]
>
>Now, hang on!  I liked the grunge look!  It meant I really could wear
>clothes from my bedroom floor to school, and didn't even necessarily have
>to brush my hair!
>
>(okay, so maybe not the look, but the benefits of it...)

Somebody making fun of Hippies again?  I thought we invented the ripped
jeans look.  Or maybe it was the Landsknechts in the early 1500's, who also
invented tops slashed full of holes.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


How could I forget!  Peasecod bellies!  i hate them!  I also hate 
groups that insist if you're doing a costume from that 
period/participating in an event set in that period , you *have* to 
have a peascod belly on your doublet because *everybody* wore 
them!!

I know of at least one painting showing men both with and without 
peasecod's.  Even if the painting didn't exist, *nothing* will make 
me believe that *everybody* in any period followed all the current 
fashions.  There will *always* be people who take the attitude of, "I 
don't care how fashionable it is, it looks silly and I'm not wearing it!"


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 07:19:06 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:37:52 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: fashion drawing exaggerations
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



I think you've got to take ALL contemporary drawings, paintings, etc. with a 
grain of salt when it comes to both costume and the human form. There are a 
few exceptions, of course, and some times were more exaggerated than others. 
But (to generalize) all artists are depicting "ideal" people (or 
less-than-"ideal" people) and that's what they draw. Thus you'll often find 
some parts of illustrations to be quite accurate, and others not. Think of 
those long, thin, gothic hands and feet, for instance; or 15th-century 
proportions; or heads in Renaissance portraits (which are frequently missing 
a lot of brain matter); or 1840s fashion plates that show women with tiny 
pointy feet and shoulders that slope so much that they would have no shoulder 
blades if they were real. All show the aesthetic of the time -- tall, thin 
people; small waists and large shoulders; emphasis on the face and not on the 
hair; small feet and sloping shoulders. They give you the "feel" of the 
style. But none show what people ACTUALLY looked like -- any more than 
illustrations in pattern catalogues today show what the garments will really 
look like on people with normal proportions!

Gail Finke

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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: 1830s sleeves (was Ugly fashion frivolities)
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

I too have always thought that 1830s ladies' fashion plates looked ridiculous, with the enormous sleeves and little knots of hair on top of the head.
However, here in the UK we currently have Mrs. Gaskell's "Wives and Daughters" on TV, in which the fashionable characters are wearing such styles, and I agree with Megan that, actually made up, they don't look so bad.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 09:37:43 -0500 (EST)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
In-Reply-To: <199912140158.RAA17060@eclipse.pacifier.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> > 
> > She makes note that the side hoops are from 1760, which was the last time
> > that the effigy was cleaned and re-dressed.
> While the hoops are from the 18th Century, the corset is from the 
> early 17th C (contemporary with Elizabeth's death.) There is an 
> article in a journal at the Westminster Abbey Library which discusses 
> this. As Drea mentioned, Janet Arnold had something to do with it. 
> 
> However, I no longer have a copy of it that I can find and was unable 
> to find a replacement copy the time to go to the WA Library when I 
> was there. We didn't have time the day we went and it was closed when 
> we went to do photography (as that is only allowed for a short period 
> on Wednesday evenings.)
> 
> If one of our lucky Londoners could go find the article, I'm sure a 
> number of us would be appreciative. (If I had the information on 
> which journal it was in, with the date and page number, I could 
> probably request a copy for study, as could Drea.)

Yes, yes!! I would be eternally grateful for any info on that article! In
fact, we might be able to work out some sort of exchange...replica pinking
tools, or carnelian beads,  or silk cloth of gold...

Thanks,

Drea (no, I'm not desparate) Leed
 

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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: The King and I
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:00:28 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

I
> RE: The King and I . . . or whatever they're calling it. They may have 
> altered the story for the Jodie Foster pic, but they can't have altered
it as 
> much as they altered the musical for the cartoon film that was out this 
> summer. From what I recall of the reviews, there were ninja-type bad
guys, 
> there was a chase in a hot air balloon, and there was only one son (a
martial 
> arts master sort of guy). The king and Anna got married, for all I know.
I 
> just couldn't bear to see it.
> 
> I wish people would just make up stories. Oops, wasn't that what the REAL

> Anna was supposed to have done?
> 
> Dying to see the costumes in this one!
> 
> Gail Finke

Just last night on the Family channel, there was a special about Anna and
the King.  Seems that 80% of her adventures were questionable.  She wrote a
book called The English Governess in Siam (?)  or something like that.  It
was another woman who wrote the story Anna and the King and that is the
story we know.

Ann Leonowens was a remarkable woman and her books about life in the
Siamese Court are some of the only records of life there.  Even though the
biographers on the program disputed the truthfulness of her stories, they
praised her for pluck and determination for making herself a place in a
difficult world.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 08:33:46 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Italian Ren. fan
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:03:31 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

> There's not much I can recommend in the movie category (although my
> personal favorite is Zefferelli's "Taming of the Shrew", but the
> background costumes are better than the star's). "Dangerous Beauty" has
> some good costumes on the background players as well but ignore what the
> prostitutes are wearing.
> 
> Books - the best ones I can think of currently in print are the 2
> volumes on Italian Ren frescoes.  They're big and pricy but gorgeously
> illustrated.  For cheaper books, try finding the Riverside series on
> various artists - I can recommend the one on Carpaccio.  There's also a
> good book out called "Renaissance Portraits" by Lorne Campbell that has
> some nice stuff (I've made the red dress on the jacket cover that was
> painted by Raphael).
> 
> Carolyn

Rent 'Artemisia'.  French with American subtitles, adult theme, nudity,
fabulous costumes.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 08:46:10 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:15:53 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

> > > She makes note that the side hoops are from 1760, which was the last
time
> > > that the effigy was cleaned and re-dressed.

In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
a later time as well?

> > If one of our lucky Londoners could go find the article, I'm sure a 
> > number of us would be appreciative. (If I had the information on 
> > which journal it was in, with the date and page number, I could 
> > probably request a copy for study, as could Drea.)
> 
> Yes, yes!! I would be eternally grateful for any info on that article! In
> fact, we might be able to work out some sort of exchange...replica
pinking
> tools, or carnelian beads,  or silk cloth of gold...
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Drea (no, I'm not desparate) Leed


Yes, Yes!!  I would also be interested, but not as desperate as Drea.

Kathlene
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 08:53:00 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 4:10:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<< And, since this is the 90's, why do shoes have to be so narrow?
 And non-repairable, but so cheaply built they need repair soon after you
 buy them? >>

The disposable era!
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 4:10:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<< but her
 friends all think my pierced eyebrow is 'cool'. >>

This position is coverable in period dress?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 08:55:30 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/13/1999 11:56:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
martyr@gti.net writes:

<< Why exactly does that peeve you? It's a personal statement. >>

Yes, it screams "I do what everyone else does!" or "I'm trashy"...to most 
people.
Even piercing your ear can be dangerous. If the cartilage gets 
infected...good-bye ear! [lobes are pretty safe] And 50 year old tattoos are 
all ugly. "Mommy...why does Grandma have those blue green marks on her calf?" 
[that's right....make sure you're tattoo goes with varicose veins]

There...I'm finished with the topic.
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:18:14 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1830s sleeves (was Ugly fashion frivolities)
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 9:32:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk writes:

<< However, here in the UK we currently have Mrs. Gaskell's "Wives and 
Daughters" on TV, in which the fashionable characters are wearing such 
styles, and I agree with Megan that, actually made up, they don't look so bad.
  >>

Yes. The 1st time I saw a real 1830s dress I was very pleasantly surprised. 
The sleeves were full but the dress was light & delicate and nothing was 
exaggerated. The whole effect was delightful.
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

K & J Hopkins wrote:
> 
> Just last night on the Family channel, there was a special about Anna
> and the King.  Seems that 80% of her adventures were questionable. 
> She wrote a book called The English Governess in Siam (?)  or
> something like that.  It was another woman who wrote the story Anna
> and the King and that is the story we know.

Darn! I wish I hadn't missed it!  Maybe they'll show it again... on a
historical note... one of my husbands relatives of that period was the
woman who was fired just before Anna was hired... seems she kept trying
to convert the King's children to Christianity.... rather forcefully.

Kat
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'benrumson@worldnet.att.net'" <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Italian Frescos-was New Italian Ren. fan
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:27:40 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>


<<Books - the best ones I can think of currently in print are the 2
volumes on Italian Ren frescoes.  They're big and pricy but gorgeously
illustrated. >>
Do you know the ISBNs, or authors?  I am looking for a reproduction of a
fresco "Pope Celestinus III Grants Privilege of Independence to the
Spedale", by Domenico di Bartolo, 1443.   I know it is in RENAISSANCE DRESS
IN ITALY 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, Bell & Hyman, London & Humanities
Press, New Jersey, 1981. ISBN 0-391-02362-4. Color Plate 4 (pg 57). (Part of
THE HISTORY OF DRESS SERIES)-but I haven't been able to find it.
If you want to look at what I am talking about-see
http://www.tiac.net/users/drbeer/joyce/ferrets/frhistpg.htm

Thanks 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 09:19:44 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
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-Poster: Debra Douglass <ddoug@mediaone.net>

On 12/13/1999, on h-costume@indra.com, Allison Thurman wrote: 
 >>re: tattoos - i think the look is more popular than the reality. this
 >>explains the plastic "tattoo" chokers and the popularity of mehindi (henna
 >>body painting).

At least mehndi is temporary. You can get a 'choker' mehndi tattoo and
know that it will not last.

-Debra Douglass
-- 

.------------------------------------------------------------------.
|   No flames were thrown in the creation of this email message.   |
|-----------------------------.------------------------------------'
|Debra Douglass                \ 
|ddoug@mediaone.net             \ 
|http://ghatti.ne.mediaone.net   \  
`---------------------------------`
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 09:26:04 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
> mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
> that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
> a later time as well?

It's hard to tell. The drawers (which are not like any "bloomers" 
I've seen) are tubes of fabric with a waistband. Even in the postcard 
they give you can see that there is no way that the waistband (which 
has a button which ought to attach to something and looks like it 
should attach to the other side of the waistband) not only doesn't 
meet in front but ends on each hip making a deep V in the front. They 
look like something someone put on it to "make the woman at least 
somewhat decent" in a much later time.)

There is also a little bit of linen peeking out from under the top 
of the corset (but interestingly enough, not at the bottom. Just 
plaster between the bottom of the corset and those silly drawers.)

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 09:48:01 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: clothing mistakes
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>


> Has anyone else noticed that most of the peeves are from the last 20 years
> or so?

Looks like I was wrong...


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 09:59:07 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s8565450.052@csv6.derby.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1830s sleeves (was Ugly fashion frivolities)
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I have found that in studying fashion, everytime I say I can't stand a
certain period or fashion... guess what I end of working with or
researching????  You know what?  When you really get into studying why a
certain fashion was wore, you start to appreciate it.  I used to not like
bustle dresses.  I helped set up an exhibit with many bustle dresses.  Now,
I have a great respect for women who had to put such a vast amount of
clothing and contraptions.  I never liked corsets... I had to build eight
corset stands for exhibit.  I never cared for "the Royalities of the
World"... now I am a dresser for the Di gown.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 10:04:03 1999
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 11:20:46 -0500
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>

	Well, my 'peeves' are people who decide that their way of dressing is the
right way and the most pleasing to look at. It is really unacceptable to do
anything to anyones pants, period. Can you imagine a person who wears his
pants hanging off going up to someone who was wearing their pants at the
waist and pulling them down? If they have chosen to dress that way, so be
it. And as to following trends mindlessly, I think MOST people try to wear
clothes that look like the other guy's, whether it be Cary Grant or a person
you see on the bus. And wearing unusual clothes having to do with scarves or
artistic jewelry dosn't count as unique. I don't mean to offend anyone, but
I know I have been offended.
		Kristen

Kristen Gee, Lurker
kristen.gee@linkpa.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 10:15:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 11:34:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #857
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-Poster: STRAUSS@WCUVAX1.WCU.EDU

The NY Times has a great article, today (12/14) on primitive
figures and weavings/clothing.

Bob

====================================================================
Bob Strauss                                      Cataloger
Hunter Library                                   Western Carolina U.
strauss@wcu.edu
Class home page:    http://www3.wcu.edu/~strauss
Personal home page: http://www3.wcu.edu/~strauss/personal
====================================================================
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 10:21:58 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Amen!  I for one have a tattoo and ears pierced in several places.  I am not trashy.
Judging people by their outsides just proves that some people have ugly insides.  Who
cares if I have an old ugly tattoo when I'm 70?  What do you care if my ear scars?
Sheesh!  At least I have my sight, my hearing, my limbs, and my mind!  And last but
not least, my heart.  Cynthia

>         Well, my 'peeves' are people who decide that their way of dressing is the
> right way and the most pleasing to look at. It is really unacceptable to do
> anything to anyones pants, period. Can you imagine a person who wears his
> pants hanging off going up to someone who was wearing their pants at the
> waist and pulling them down? If they have chosen to dress that way, so be
> it. And as to following trends mindlessly, I think MOST people try to wear
> clothes that look like the other guy's, whether it be Cary Grant or a person
> you see on the bus. And wearing unusual clothes having to do with scarves or
> artistic jewelry dosn't count as unique. I don't mean to offend anyone, but
> I know I have been offended.
>                 Kristen
>
> Kristen Gee, Lurker
> kristen.gee@linkpa.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 10:49:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:03:53 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

18th.hoop petticoat on effigy of Elisabeth.
I have seen pictures of this and i just wondered if there were farthingales
shaped this way
in the 16.th century.
Could this be the kind of farthingale called a semi-cirkeled farthingale?

Bjarne in Copenhagen.

aleed skrev:

> -Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
>
> > >
> > > She makes note that the side hoops are from 1760, which was the last time
> > > that the effigy was cleaned and re-dressed.
> > While the hoops are from the 18th Century, the corset is from the
> > early 17th C (contemporary with Elizabeth's death.) There is an
> > article in a journal at the Westminster Abbey Library which discusses
> > this. As Drea mentioned, Janet Arnold had something to do with it.
> >
> > However, I no longer have a copy of it that I can find and was unable
> > to find a replacement copy the time to go to the WA Library when I
> > was there. We didn't have time the day we went and it was closed when
> > we went to do photography (as that is only allowed for a short period
> > on Wednesday evenings.)
> >
> > If one of our lucky Londoners could go find the article, I'm sure a
> > number of us would be appreciative. (If I had the information on
> > which journal it was in, with the date and page number, I could
> > probably request a copy for study, as could Drea.)
>
> Yes, yes!! I would be eternally grateful for any info on that article! In
> fact, we might be able to work out some sort of exchange...replica pinking
> tools, or carnelian beads,  or silk cloth of gold...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Drea (no, I'm not desparate) Leed
>
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 11:29:24 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:48:08 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

The sources I have for these shoulder capes worn over the dress is that they
were most commonly made of velvet or fur.  Does anyone know of a reference
or picture that shows something a little lighter-like linen?  I will be
wearing it in sunny Arizona, and would like the option of something cooler.
Thanks in advance

Sg
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 11:37:45 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Inventory records of 16th century spanish settlers /sailors/soldiers in
St. Augustine, Florida, refer to capes and cloaks made of linen, fustian
and wool-linen blends. The records are listed 
in the book "Richer Than We Thought:  Material Culture of 16th century St.
Augustine", by Eugene Lyons.

The German inventories of the time that I've read through only list wool,
velvet, fur (lining) and silk.

Hope this helps,

Drea



 On Tue, 14 Dec 1999, Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)
wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> 
> The sources I have for these shoulder capes worn over the dress is that they
> were most commonly made of velvet or fur.  Does anyone know of a reference
> or picture that shows something a little lighter-like linen?  I will be
> wearing it in sunny Arizona, and would like the option of something cooler.
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Sg
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
>mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
>that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
>a later time as well?
>
No, the drawers ("bloomers" is a 19th century term)  are thought to be
original.  Women's underpants were not common in England at the time, but
they did exist.  

Margo


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 07:43 AM 12/14/1999 +0000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com
>
>
>> In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
>> mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
>> that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
>> a later time as well?
>
>It's hard to tell. The drawers (which are not like any "bloomers" 
>I've seen) are tubes of fabric with a waistband. Even in the postcard 
>they give you can see that there is no way that the waistband (which 
>has a button which ought to attach to something and looks like it 
>should attach to the other side of the waistband) not only doesn't 
>meet in front but ends on each hip making a deep V in the front. They 
>look like something someone put on it to "make the woman at least 
>somewhat decent" in a much later time.)

the "crotchless" drawers of the time make sense if you considerthat their
purpose may have been, not to conceal the crotch area, but to protect the
inner thighs from chafing.  As for the waistband not meeting, they may have
been an older pair that had not been worn in some time. We know that
Elizabeth's measurements increased later in life.  Since comfort isn't an
issue when dressing an effigy, the fact that the drawers didn't fit properly
probably wasn't much of a problem.

Margo  


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 11:52:03 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 11:16 AM 12/14/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
>
>I have found that in studying fashion, everytime I say I can't stand a
>certain period or fashion... guess what I end of working with or
>researching????  You know what?  When you really get into studying why a
>certain fashion was wore, you start to appreciate it. 

Yes!  I used to think that the late Elizabethan drum farthingale was the
most hideous thing ever;  Now, well, I wouldn't say I think that it's
pretty, but is has a certain style, and the challenge of making it look good
appeals to me.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 12:11:48 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Book: Italian Frescoes
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:29:02 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


><<Books - the best ones I can think of currently in print are the 2
volumes on Italian Ren frescoes.  They're big and pricy but gorgeously
illustrated. >>
>Do you know the ISBNs, or authors?

_Italian Frescoes_, vol.2 is sub'd "The Flowering of the Renaissance".
Steffi Roetgen.  Book has excellent production values. Megabooks, Palo Alto
has it at $109.  They didnt have V.1.

>"Pope Celestinus III Grants Privilege of Independence to the Spedale", by
Domenico di Bartolo, 1443. 

Your pic would be in vol I, frescoes before 1470.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:47:41 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

OF course, some of those peascods cover bellies that are really shaped like
that!  

> ----------
> From: 	Cynthia Virtue[SMTP:cvirtue@thibault.org]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Saturday, December 11, 1999 3:24 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Re: ugly fashion frivolities
> 
> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> 
> Peascod bellies on Elizabethan men's jackets.  Time for the men to look
> as if they are pregnant, finally!
> 
> --
>   "Such virtue hath my pen...."  -Shakespeare, Sonnet LXXXI
>        "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia V.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:59:47 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

You're talking about a "gollar" I presume.  Try making it up in a
light-weight wool lined with silk.  Many are very simple, and the lining
doesn't always show. Or of course, save the garment until late
afternoon/early evening.  

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)[SMTP:SKNAUF@apsc.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Tuesday, December 14, 1999 9:48 AM
> To: 	'h-costume@indra.com'
> Subject: 	H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> 
> The sources I have for these shoulder capes worn over the dress is that
> they
> were most commonly made of velvet or fur.  Does anyone know of a reference
> or picture that shows something a little lighter-like linen?  I will be
> wearing it in sunny Arizona, and would like the option of something
> cooler.
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Sg
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 12:44:36 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 10:58:20 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1830s sleeves (was Ugly fashion frivolities)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  I have found that in studying fashion, everytime I say I can't stand a
>  certain period or fashion... guess what I end of working with or
>  researching????  

*snip*

*GRIN*
Yes, that's very true. I used to think the Empire fashions were something
I'd look like an over-stuffed sausage in, and that they were 'icky'.
However, now that I've made a couple . . . ;)

While the actual 'look' of the 1830s sleeve is certainly much different than
the fashion drawing (having done a very short stint at such, I do know the
difference!) I still don't like 'em. So, I guess it's just a matter of time
before I make one. *sigh*

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 13:00:54 1999
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Message-ID: <385697B6.ECE0E6DE@thibault.org>
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:22:27 -0500
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - shoes
References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com>
	 <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com>
	 <004801bf4410$c91008e0$af57fea9@gunsafes> <4.1.19991213035446.00b8def0@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> place?  And, since this is the 90's, why do shoes have to be so narrow?
> And non-repairable, but so cheaply built they need repair soon after you
> buy them?

This is my favorite commentary on cheap shoes (or cheap anything, for
that matter):

[...from] Terry Pratchett, a sf/fantasy writer, who writes
marevelously.  Most of his stuff is funnier than the following, but
I'm illustrating a point.   Captain Vimes is in the City Watch. 

         The reason the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned,
     was because they managed to spend less money. 
         Take boots, for example.  He earned thirty-eight
     dollars a month plus allowances.  A really good pair
     of leather boots cost fifty dollars.  But an affordable
     pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or
     two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard
     gave out, cost about ten dollars.  Those were the kind
     of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the
     soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in
     the city on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles. 
         But the thing was that good boots lasted for years
     and years.  A man who could afford fifty dollars had a
     pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten
     years' time, while a poor man who could only afford
     cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on
     boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.

         This was the Captain Samuel Vimes "Boots"
     theory of socioeconomic unfairness.

--
It wasn't until the astonishing success of Dicken's _A Christmas Carol_
that the holiday had any significant place in the English-speaking
world.  Easter was considered much more significant.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 13:06:00 1999
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-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu



On Tue, 14 Dec 1999, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> 
> [...from] Terry Pratchett, a sf/fantasy writer, who writes
> marevelously.  Most of his stuff is funnier than the following, but
> I'm illustrating a point.   Captain Vimes is in the City Watch. 

	Pratchett also makes a good point regarding style that relates to this
thread. 

	"The Monks of Cool live in a small and exclusive Monestary high in the
Ramtop Mountains.  Before taking their final vows, novices are taken by a
senior monk to a room full of all sorts of clothing.  The senior monk says to
them "Yo, my son which outfit here is the most stylish?", to which the correct
reply is "Hey, what ever I select"

-Katie
	

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Date: 14 Dec 99 13:24:29 MST
From: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Supplies help
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-Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>

I am currently working on my 12th night/yule festival/new year's eve dress. 
It is a great red velveteen Italian Ren with snowflakes beaded all over the
sleeves.  The problem is that I have decided to use metal eyes to thread the
lacing at the back.  The question is where to find them.  I know I have seen
women with this style of closure but I've never seen them in stores or on the
web.  I am located in Arlington Virginia and but I would prefer to find them
on the web.

Thanks for any help you can give me....

Orlaith of Storvik

but...WHY DID THE CHICKEN CROSS THE ROAD?
FOX MULDER: You saw it cross the road with your own eyes. How many more
chickens have to cross before you believe it?




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 14:10:30 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Supplies help
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Have you tried  http://www.lacis.com/?   I know they sell grommets in
several sizes, I am not sure how small you want them.

-----Original Message-----
From: Orlaith [mailto:orlaith@usa.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 1:24 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Supplies help



-Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>

I am currently working on my 12th night/yule festival/new year's eve dress. 
It is a great red velveteen Italian Ren with snowflakes beaded all over the
sleeves.  The problem is that I have decided to use metal eyes to thread the
lacing at the back.  The question is where to find them.  I know I have seen
women with this style of closure but I've never seen them in stores or on
the
web.  I am located in Arlington Virginia and but I would prefer to find them
on the web.

Thanks for any help you can give me....

Orlaith of Storvik

but...WHY DID THE CHICKEN CROSS THE ROAD?
FOX MULDER: You saw it cross the road with your own eyes. How many more
chickens have to cross before you believe it?




____________________________________________________________________
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 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 14:27:48 1999
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

For "lacers" for your Ren style, try www.patternsoftime.com

Katrin
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 14:32:18 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

Excuse me?
You're finished are you? Thank you for sparing us.
I am somewhat speechless here-are you actually implying that I am trashy because
I have tattoos???!
Mister, I don't know who you are but you are WAY out of line here. Way.
Now you are flat-out insulting any of us on this list who have tattoos &
piercing.
And I am also confident that my tattoos will be just as beautiful when 90 as they
are now.

~Lisa

Yes, it screams "I do what everyone else does!" or "I'm trashy"...to most
people.And 50 year old tattoos are all ugly. "Mommy...why does Grandma have those
blue green marks on her calf?"[that's right....make sure you're tattoo goes with
varicose veins]

>
> There...I'm finished with the topic.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 14:41:08 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 19:48:04 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: sumptuary laws.
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

> >
> > Can't remember the source, but I read somewhere that the sumptuary laws in
> > England (at least during Elizabeth's time) were just a form of indirect
> > taxation. Wear what you chose and pay the fine.

This is still the case in the 18thc and it seems that people broke the
laws to prove that they were rich enough to pay the fine
>

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 14:41:37 1999
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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Susannah Eanes wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
> 
> Please excuse the list posting --there were too many to write back to
> individually --
> 
> Hi guys,
> Since most of you who wrote me about receiving my Year-End Inventory list
> prefer receiving the list in the body of an e-mail (not as an attachment),
> please look for an e-mail tonight from me --but I will be sending it from
> work, so it will be from a different e-mail address --I will put "Year-End
> Inventory" in the subject line.  I need to do it this way to save time
> --I'll be sending it out to everyone at once, directly to the e-mail address
> they gave me.
> If anyone else is interested, I will continue to do the same over the next
> few days until everyone has been replied to.
> 
> btw, I *am* responding individually to everyone who is interested in the Old
> Store Stock (the other inventory sale I am involved with!), and I still have
> alot to respond to.  Bear with me, I promise you will hear from me very
> soon.
> Thanks, everyone for your interest!
> 
> Susannah
> 
> >From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> >To: h-costume@indra.com
> >Subject: H-COST: getting rid of year-end Inventory
> >Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:32:55 PST
> >
> >
> >-Poster: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>
> >
> >Hi guys,
> >I have several items that I am willing to part with for about 1/2 of the
> >regular price, including mostly women's 18th century work clothing,
> >infants'
> >items, a few pairs of 18th c. women's shoes, and other basics.  If anyone
> >is
> >interested in perusing the list of items for sale, please e-mail me
> >privately.  I will send a list back directly to you as an attachment (or if
> >your e-mail provider does not like attachments, let me know and I will copy
> >it directly into the body of the e-mail).  I would like to get rid of
> >everything I can before the end of the year because in Virginia I have to
> >pay tax on unsold items in my business inventory.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Susannah
> >
> >"We are only the trustees for those who come after us."
> >  --William Morris
> >
> yes please

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 16:02:37 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 11:24:17 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kristen.gee@linkpa.com writes:

<< I don't mean to offend anyone, but
 I know I have been offended. >>

Sorry, dear. Of course you may dress as you please. But it is a fact that if 
you chose, say, to put a plate in your lip or bind your feet, in this society 
you must put up with some staring and turning up of noses. It's your choice.

 When you find a society that does not judge you, at least partly, by your 
appearance, let us know. Until then, you'll have to put up with it. Everyone 
else does.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 16:16:34 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 11:42:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< Who
 cares if I have an old ugly tattoo when I'm 70?  What do you care if my ear 
scars?>>

Well, if you don't, I certainly don't.

 <<Sheesh!  At least I have my sight, my hearing, my limbs, and my mind!  And 
last but
 not least, my heart.  Cynthia >>

And so do I. But if you re-read my post you will see that I said that "Most 
people think" it's looks trashy. This is true at this point in time 
regardless of how PC anyone wants to get.

I can wear a wig and a wedding dress to book signings if I want but to expect 
everyone to be blasé about it is just not realistic.

Your righteousness is misdirected. I want you to dress the way you please. 
But I'm not everyone......not by a long shot. And I don't have to pretend I 
like it.

Sheesh!
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 1:15:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< Yes!  I used to think that the late Elizabethan drum farthingale was the
 most hideous thing ever; >>

I use to think T-shaped tunics were the worst. Then I had to cut a million of 
then for "Macbeth". How beautiful they can be! The endless draping 
possibilities and the variety one can achieve from such a simple cut!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 16:23:28 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 3:50:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
martyr@gti.net writes:

<< Mister, I don't know who you are but you are WAY out of line here. Way.
 Now you are flat-out insulting any of us on this list who have tattoos &
 piercing.
 And I am also confident that my tattoos will be just as beautiful when 90 as 
they
 are now. >>

No, I'm not and no I didn't.

Take a chill pill.
and good luck with your tattoo.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 16:47:34 1999
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:05:23 -0500
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>


>Sorry, dear. Of course you may dress as you please. But it is a fact that
if
>you chose, say, to put a plate in your lip or bind your feet, in this
society
>you must put up with some staring and turning up of noses. It's your
choice.

>When you find a society that does not judge you, at least partly, by your
>appearance, let us know. Until then, you'll have to put up with it.
Everyone
>else does.


	My e-mail was not intended to imply that I had a problem with how people
dress, but about yours and others reactions to how others dress. You
obviously misunderstood me. Let me make myself more clear: What if those in
our society who choose to wear what you consider unusual fashions were to
stare and turn up their nose at YOU when you considered yourself dressed
normally and decently? They would be rude of course, and so would you if you
did the same to them. Would you stare and turn up your nose at a person with
a disability? Of course not. The fact that someone is different should not
open them up to ridicule and rebuke, unless they are doing something that is
harmful to YOU. That is my point. And by the way, I am not offended for
myself, but offended that rational and mature people could be so petty and
juvenile.

Kristen Gee, unlurker
kristen.gee@linkpa.com



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 16:50:21 1999
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

I have read the average life of a list is 18 months.  The death knell is 
usually due to intolerance.  Please, let's not ruin a great list with 
arguments.

Live and let live.

Katrin
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 15:38:02 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

It's the Holiday Season..... can we just change the subject - please.
Thanks
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: RE: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
>Date: Tue, Dec 14, 1999, 3:05 PM
>

>
>-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
>
>
>>Sorry, dear. Of course you may dress as you please. But it is a fact that
>if
>>you chose, say, to put a plate in your lip or bind your feet, in this
>society
>>you must put up with some staring and turning up of noses. It's your
>choice.
>
>>When you find a society that does not judge you, at least partly, by your
>>appearance, let us know. Until then, you'll have to put up with it.
>Everyone
>>else does.
>
>
> My e-mail was not intended to imply that I had a problem with how people
>dress, but about yours and others reactions to how others dress. You
>obviously misunderstood me. Let me make myself more clear: What if those in
>our society who choose to wear what you consider unusual fashions were to
>stare and turn up their nose at YOU when you considered yourself dressed
>normally and decently? They would be rude of course, and so would you if
you
>did the same to them. Would you stare and turn up your nose at a person
with
>a disability? Of course not. The fact that someone is different should not
>open them up to ridicule and rebuke, unless they are doing something that
is
>harmful to YOU. That is my point. And by the way, I am not offended for
>myself, but offended that rational and mature people could be so petty and
>juvenile.
>
>Kristen Gee, unlurker
>kristen.gee@linkpa.com
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 17:21:46 1999
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/99 11:34:23 PM !!!First Boot!!!, rlshep@home.com 
writes:

<< It's the Holiday Season..... can we just change the subject - please.
 Thanks
 ~!~ R.L.Shep >>


I am inclined to agree.

Chas
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 18:00:08 1999
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 19:18:02 -0500
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>

Sure-sorry. I think I've made my point anyhow. I apologize for any upset
this might have caused.

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Fopdejour1@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 6:39 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes



-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/99 11:34:23 PM !!!First Boot!!!, rlshep@home.com
writes:

<< It's the Holiday Season..... can we just change the subject - please.
 Thanks
 ~!~ R.L.Shep >>


I am inclined to agree.

Chas
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 18:00:20 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

(Funny, usually I say this to my kids)

I don't care WHO started it, I want it to STOP!  NOW!

Santa Claus is watching you, you know.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 18:23:22 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

> Yes please-let us return to historic costume.

> ~Lisa

>
> << It's the Holiday Season..... can we just change the subject - please.
>  Thanks
>  ~!~ R.L.Shep >>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 18:33:09 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:48:36 -0600
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-Poster: Vicki Betts <vbetts@gower.net>

Is _Costume & Dressmaker:  The Magazine for Serious Costumers_ still
being published?  If so, what is the most recent issue number?

Thanks!

Vicki Betts

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 19:23:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:38:45 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Santa Cloths (was Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  I don't care WHO started it, I want it to STOP!  NOW!

*raises a guilty hand* 

B-but I just wanted to know who thought what was the height in silly
fashions . . .!

*WHIMPER*
  
>  Santa Claus is watching you, you know.

*shift gears*

I've seen some lovely holiday cards with Santa, Father Christmas, etc. on
them in various garb, the most stunning of which is a heavy fur coat (looks
like bear) over a midnight blue robe embroidered with silver snowflakes. I
think this was a Victorian creation, but was there ever a 'Santa'
historically with such an outfit? And wouldn't a presentation of historical
Santas be stunning? 

*sound of evil plots hatching*


Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Get FREE voicemail, fax and email at http://voicemail.excite.com 
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 20:56:05 EST
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 6:06:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kristen.gee@linkpa.com writes:

<<  Would you stare and turn up your nose at a person with
 a disability? Of course not. >>

Who choses to have a disability?

And being gay, I know very well what you are talking about. But if I was 
offended at every remark or unthinking person, I'd spend my life being 
offended.

But you see, I'm not stupid or unthinking. Which brings me to my next 
post...... [which is about costuming, BTW]
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/1999 7:43:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
martyr@gti.net writes:

<< > Yes please-let us return to historic costume. >>

Yes....and discuss tattoos instead of emoting over them.

Where do they come from? Why in Western culture should they have a negative 
connotation? I find this interesting.

Surely most of the cultures of the world at some point in their history 
employed with acceptance tattoos as decoration. How did it become 
unacceptable at the Junior League or UDC? 

Association with "primitive" cultures? Association with sailors [who got them 
in "primitive" cultures]?

How does it relate to something like long hair & beards on men? [which seems 
to oscillate from OK to not OK....more so than tattoos....or does it?]

Or is this anthropology, not costuming?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:12:43 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <4.2.0.58.19991213114327.00a48240@djnash.mail.iastate.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Was ugly clothes, now Anne of Cleves
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:53:27 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

> Just musing out loud--it's Finals Week here,
> Doris

Wheeew!  Glad to see I am not the only one in a panic!
....and back to costuming. I am making plans for after Christmas.

   Has anyone made a copy of the dress Anne of Cleves wore for the betrothal
portrait?  I can see that it is a combination overdress with underdress but
I wanted pointers, especially what *not* to do. ;)
    There is some details specific to her hat in the Herbert Norris, Tudor
Costume book but, information on the dress itself is lacking.  Has anyone
found any sources that gives details on how to do that style of dress? I
have Period Patterns #46, German Puff and Slash, though I haven't attempted
to modify it yet. I also have Patterns 3, if someone sees something I
didn't.

Thanks!
Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:12:48 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991214202429.21995.qmail@nwcst291.netaddress.usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Supplies help
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 21:32:00 -0500
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Warning.... blatant plug for myself to follow  :)

We are just finalizing out complete online catalog/shopping cart and out
text
price list now contains links to photos of most of our listed items. Once
complete, we
will also have all our laces and trims shown, books and additional corset
supplies that have yet to finish arriving.

We'd be happy to help you and answer any questions. We have various sizes
and styles of
grommets in stock. We also are an authorized distributor for one of the
Norwegian pewter companies, with a full line of clasps offered in eye/hook,
hook/hook and eye/eye combinations.

The main site is at http://GranndGarb.com

The Clasps can be found at:  http://granndgarb.com/page2.shtml
The Grommets, Eyelets and such can be found at:
http://granndgarb.com/page5.shtml

Regards,

~Kyna
Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing Supplies and Accessories
info@granndgarb.com
http://granndgarb.com

>
> -Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>
>
> I am currently working on my 12th night/yule festival/new year's eve
dress.
> It is a great red velveteen Italian Ren with snowflakes beaded all over
the
> sleeves.  The problem is that I have decided to use metal eyes to thread
the
> lacing at the back.  The question is where to find them.  I know I have
seen
> women with this style of closure but I've never seen them in stores or on
the
> web.  I am located in Arlington Virginia and but I would prefer to find
them
> on the web.
>
> Thanks for any help you can give me....
>
> Orlaith of Storvik


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:29:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 19:54:29 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sumptuary Law violations-more specific Q
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

I have heard that Philip of Spain created a set of sumptuary laws which
greatly restricted the styles and fabrics the Spanish could wear,
ironically just as the riches and fabrics from the Orient and the New
World were really getting available. This was sited as the cause for the
somewhat somber appearance  of many of the Spanish nobility (as if being
Spanish weren't enough to be somber about! JUST KIDDING! My RenFaire
character is a typically xenophobic Elizabethan Englishwoman).

Karen
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:29:20 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: carnation
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

My understanding is that it is actually the color of raw flesh, which
could be understood as a deep shade of pink, I suppose, depending on the
flesh in question!


Karen

On Tue, 7 Dec 1999 08:30:41 EST Gaelscot@aol.com writes:
> 
> -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
> 
> 
> 
> I love all those color names too, but they can be misleading. 
> Carnation was, 
> I believe, a sort of dried blood color, not a pink. Boy, I wish the 
> Color 
> Marketing Group and the other so-called color "forecasters" would 
> make up 
> names like that today!
> 
> Gail Finke
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:29:23 1999
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

Oh Teddy, I'm so sorry I missed you in full Cavalier! It must have been
fabulous! Next time I'm over, I want to see moer of your stuff!!!

Karen

On Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:51:13 +0000 (GMT) Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk> writes:
> 
> -Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> 
> > --Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
> > 
> > What is your least favorite fashion frivolity? Mine is the 
> c.1830's
> > American women's sleeves. They look to me like linebackers in 
> lace!
> > And it made thier heads, to my eye, look way too tiny. Perhaps 
> some
> > women can carry this look, but I sure can't! 
> > 
> > Kate
> 
> Mine is those lateish 17th century petticoat-britches.... 
> <shudder!>.  On their own they are bad enough but with the huge 
> puff of shirt between the waist of them and the bottom of the 
> "doublet" they are simply horrible.
> 
> Mind you, you never know what the "modern-eye" is going to 
> interpret strangely.  On Saturday, I was in a 1630's suit (the group 
> I 
> don English Civil War re-enactment with were having a get-together 
> in a pub in Southend-on-Sea) and the landlady of the guest-house 
> we were staying in asked if we were "in drag" - must have been the 
> lace around mu collar and cuffs....<g>.
> 
> At least the people we encountered in the twon itself recognized 
> the period enough to call out things like "All for one and one for 
> all".
> 
> 
> Teddy
> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> air and darkness, apparently!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/14/99 7:57:44 PM Central Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< Why in Western culture should they have a negative 
 connotation? I find this interesting. >>

I know for me personally the main reasoning is Biblical.  It would have to be 
about destorying the temple of your body.  I personally, noticed I said I 
personally, don't like tatoos and wouldn't get one.  I also don't like pain 
and needles.  I know people who have them but I don't think they look nice.  
I do have my ears pierced once and think that is enough also.  I know tatoos 
and multiply piercings are seen as a sign of rebellion by lots of people in 
the Church and the area where I live.  I live in the midwest, Illinois.  I 
don't not like someone if they chose to have these but I just wouldn't want 
one.  I have kids and we are raising them to not want to have tatoos.  If 
they did I wouldn't stop loving them.  
I also don't like very low cut outfits or real short dresses either.  I don't 
like to see underclothes through an outfit either.  
In the US I wonder if tatoos also were considered bad or to shy away from 
because of the feelings some had of Indians and their warpaint?  Maybe it 
made them think of that and then think voilent people?  Just wondering.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:37:55 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

I will tell you why Albert. It stems back to the '30s when tattoos became popular
with sailors. Yes, just like Popeye. The tattoos back then were very clumsy,
heavily outlined & in the old-style "mom"/"I love Suzi" cartoon effect and no,
not very attractive by modern standards. Unfortunately, the needles were usually
not sterilized and, yes sailors also had a tendency to pick up STDs as well as
tattoos and had a reputation for being a generally rowdy, vulgar, offensive
bunch. This negative image of tattoos and drunken, STD-laden sailors from the
'30s remains in the American consciousness even now. Plus since the '30s other
anti-social groups such as bikers and street gangs have also used tattoos to
engage the "bad-ass" image associated with tattoos. Today, tattooing is literally
a form of graphic art. You apprentice as a tattoo artist & it can be a lucrative,
rewarding career for those with the talent and drive. The equipment is much more
sophisticated now and the super fine, high tech needles can produce
photo-realistic images right on the skin. People get tattoos for various reasons.
Most people I know with tattoos thought out and planned what they wanted to get a
long time in advance and hold dear the images they have permanently etched onto
their flesh. There is a non-specific spirituality and comraderie among tattooed
people. Tattoos can be painful and the new technology has made them much more
expensive-but it's well worth it. Piercings are different a non-permanent form of
body art that has become a side-offering at many tattoo shops because they both
involve modifying the body and a fair amount of pain. Actually, the *latest* body
modification, for the truly brave is this tribal style body scarification,
involving cutting the skin and sometimes inserting foreign objects such as beads
or rings *under* the skin and fakir-inspired pain rituals. I saw one girl being
hung up like meat-dangling from hooks embedded into the skin on her back. From
what I saw one night on one of the 20/20 type TV show, the danger aspect is what
makes the scarification so appealing and the "rush" of absolute pain which
stimulates an endorphin high.
This is how I know I'm getting old-even this is rather disturbing to me.
But compared to this, isn't tattooing pretty tame?
That's my manifesto for tonight.
Thanks for reading,
~Lisa

>
> Where do they come from? Why in Western culture should they have a negative
> connotation? I find this interesting.
>
> Surely most of the cultures of the world at some point in their history
> employed with acceptance tattoos as decoration. How did it become
> unacceptable at the Junior League or UDC?
>
> Association with "primitive" cultures? Association with sailors [who got them
> in "primitive" cultures]?
>
> How does it relate to something like long hair & beards on men? [which seems
> to oscillate from OK to not OK....more so than tattoos....or does it?]

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:45:10 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> -Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> 
> 18th.hoop petticoat on effigy of Elisabeth.
> I have seen pictures of this and i just wondered if there were farthingales
> shaped this way
> in the 16.th century.
> Could this be the kind of farthingale called a semi-cirkeled farthingale?
> Bjarne in Copenhagen.

These were known to have been made in the 18th century (as there are 
notations for the cost of their construction). The style is also 100% 
18th century.


Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> >It's hard to tell. The drawers (which are not like any "bloomers" 
> >I've seen) are tubes of fabric with a waistband. Even in the postcard 
> >they give you can see that there is no way that the waistband (which 
> >has a button which ought to attach to something and looks like it 
> >should attach to the other side of the waistband) not only doesn't 
> >meet in front but ends on each hip making a deep V in the front. They 
> >look like something someone put on it to "make the woman at least 
> >somewhat decent" in a much later time.)
> 
> the "crotchless" drawers of the time make sense if you considerthat their
> purpose may have been, not to conceal the crotch area, but to protect the
> inner thighs from chafing.

These are *not* crotchless drawers. Crotchless drawers I've seen. 
Although it could have been a very old pair (or one belonging to 
someone else), they look like an older vintage than the types of 
underwear (men's and women's) in drawings, paintings and extant from 
the 16th and 17th century.


>  Since comfort isn't an
> issue when dressing an effigy, the fact that the drawers didn't fit properly
> probably wasn't much of a problem.

Very obviously not!

 
Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:47:18 1999
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Date: 14 Dec 99 21:06:59 CST
From: Barbara Corley <Tigershadow@netscape.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: [H-COST: Supplies help]
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-Poster: Barbara Corley <Tigershadow@netscape.net>

<html>
<body>
Dragonfly Design has some at http://DragonflyDesignStudio.com/Pages/Frame=
7.html
I can't remember where else I've seen them.
Barbara

Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net> wrote:

 The problem is that I have decided to use metal eyes to thread the
lacing at the back.  The question is where to find them.  =

<br>
<BR>
<HR noshade width=3D"90%">
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at <a href=3D"=
http://webmail.netscape.com" target=3D"top">http://webmail.netscape.com</=
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</body>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 20:53:56 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Then, for the truly butch, there is the traditional Hawai'ian method,
which I saw on some PBS program a while back, involving black dye and
sharpened bamboo sticks, with lots of driving the bamboo into the
client, to get the ink/dye to penetrate beneath the skin.  Major pain,
but as the traditional style apparently dovetails with traditional
religious practice, it's for a purpose.

--
It wasn't until the astonishing success of Dicken's _A Christmas Carol_
that the holiday had any significant place in the English-speaking
world.  Easter was considered much more significant.
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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: "H-COST" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Subject: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

Also dedicated to those who are thinking of starting a costuming business!

Happy Holidays, and Many Blessings

Regina Romsey

Murphy's Laws of Sewing (Anonymous) Passed to me by a friend who works for
Janzen Sportswear as a pattern maker

Fusible interfacings always fuse to the iron
The serger only eats the customer's garment.
If you need 6 buttons, you will find 5 in your button box.
The seam you meant to rip out is invariably the other one.
When you are in a hurry, the needle eye is always too small.
The fabric you forgot to pre-shrink will always shrink the most.
The pattern you wanted to make again will have one key piece missing.
If you drop something our of your sewing basket, it will be your box of
pins... with the cover off.
Whenever the construction process is going well the bobbin thread runs out.
The magnitude of the goof is in direct proportion to the cost of the fabric.
Your lost needle will be found by your son, husband or brother-in-law...
while walking around barefoot!
Facings tend to be sewn to the wrong side (Opposite sides attract).
Collar points don't match, and you've trimmed all the seams.
The iron never scorches the garment until its final pressing.
Pants seams always rip where they are the most noticeable.
The steam iron only burps rusty water on light silk fabric.
The sewing machine light usually burns out on Sunday.
Pinking shears get dull just by looking at them.
Gathering threads always break in the middle.
The scissors cut easiest past the buttonhole.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 21:06:53 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991213205700.17969.qmail@hotmail.com> <38571F1B.B58@virgin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: 2 Inventories!
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:49:02 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

Susannah,
   Why not just go ahead and post them to the list?  Send them out once and
get everyone, remotely interested included, at the same time.
  I know it isn't exactly list appropriate but, I think everyone will
welcome the change of topic, thus overlooking the 'advertising.'

Michelle


> > please look for an e-mail tonight from me --but I will be sending it
from
> > work, so it will be from a different e-mail address --I will put
"Year-End
> > Inventory" in the subject line.
> > btw, I *am* responding individually to everyone who is interested in the
Old
> > Store Stock (the other inventory sale I am involved with!), and I still
have
> > alot to respond to.  Bear with me, I promise you will hear from me very
> > soon.
> > Thanks, everyone for your interest!
> >
> > Susannah
> >
> > >From: "Susannah Eanes" <oh_susannah@hotmail.com>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 14 21:18:07 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:31:29 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
In-Reply-To: <009101bf4574$1343da40$ab55f4d1@pavilion>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Just out of curiousity, do you know what kind and what size ribbon?  I'm
>still in the planning stage for this dress.

I believe it was regular 1"(? - the one which is about finger width), and I
think she used plain satin.  I saw it 2 years ago so the details have faded
a bit. <g>

>BTW, I've been doing an extensive search all week to find a color photo.

If you do find it please let me know - it's been my dream gown for years
and years and years!

Cheeers,
Danielle

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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:35:32 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: ugly fashion frivolities
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

   I know it's partly a cultural & modern bias on my part, but: 1)
foot-binding and the attendant footwear associated therewith, 2) some
African tribes' customs [different peoples these] of wearing those huge
lip-plugs, and ear-plugs [the Aztecs/Incas/Mayas one also wore these, I
think] or of adding necklaces/neck-torcs to elongate the womens' necks.  I
know it's my own personal bias, but these customs have looked just plain
wrong to ME since I first saw depictions of each of them.  I know that in
their own times/cultures these fashions were and in some cases still are
highly thought of. That's just 'jewelry'--I won't start on wearing apparel.
{wry grin} -- Carol
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:46:20 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: WAS: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes : NOW: Piercing of the
  tongue, in particular
In-Reply-To: <0.ea271b23.2587b7d1@aol.com>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

martyr@gti.net writes: Why exactly does that peeve you? It's a personal
statement. >>
    Albertcat wrote:Yes, it screams "I do what everyone else does!" or "I'm
trashy"...to most people. Even piercing your ear can be dangerous. If the
cartilage gets  infected...good-bye ear! [lobes are pretty safe] And 50
year old tattoos are all ugly. 
                   Carol here:  On the topic of piercing, I will add one
point.  My daughter came home with her tongue pierced.  I was less than
thrilled, but the next day, when we visited our family MD, she asked my
daughter when and where she had the procedure done.  My daughter told her.
After which, our physician informed my daughter that had the person doing
the piercing 'missed' by less than a centimeter, my daughter could have
ended up with her tongue paralyzed for life.  There is a major nerve that
runs through it, you see, and if the piercing hits that, it's all she
wrote, baby.  End of topic for me. 
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 20:10:13 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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To: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
CC: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Italian Frescos-was New Italian Ren. fan
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



"Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" wrote:
> 
> <<Books - the best ones I can think of currently in print are the 2
> volumes on Italian Ren frescoes.  They're big and pricy but gorgeously
> illustrated. >>
> Do you know the ISBNs, or authors?  I am looking for a reproduction of a
> fresco "Pope Celestinus III Grants Privilege of Independence to the
> Spedale", by Domenico di Bartolo, 1443.   I know it is in RENAISSANCE DRESS
> IN ITALY 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, Bell & Hyman, London & Humanities
> Press, New Jersey, 1981. ISBN 0-391-02362-4. Color Plate 4 (pg 57). (Part of
> THE HISTORY OF DRESS SERIES)-but I haven't been able to find it.
> If you want to look at what I am talking about-see
> http://www.tiac.net/users/drbeer/joyce/ferrets/frhistpg.htm

You probably won't be able to find Herald - I've been looking for
*years* for a copy.

The first volume of the Frescoes books is called "Italian Frescoes - The
Early Renaissance" by Steffi Roettgen, ISBN 0-7892-0139-9.  But this
frescoe isn't in it.  I know I have it in color in another book - let me
look and get back to you.

Carolyn
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:14:19 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: question regarding a picture
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/13/99 11:23:38 AM Central Standard Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< 
  A woman I know reproduced the the Phoenix gown and
 >> what she did was used lots of little tabs of ribbon.  >>

Can anyone point me to a picture of this gown?  
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

Kelly-

>         I believe you are right that some people associate tattoos & even
> piercings with things that have historically threatened polite, Christian
> society & family values-Native Americans' war paint, "violent" savages both
> here & abroad in Africa, Asia; then later the sailors, the bikers, punk rockers
> etc. This is why it is so visually striking & connote "rebellion," &
> anti-social behavior. It just disturbs some people-even on this list it's
> caused some rather harsh disagreement & is viewed by some as just hideously
> wrong. I think demographics & the culture within those demographics also play a
> role in why certain individuals are instinctively turned off by most
> manifestations of tribal spirit such as tattoos, bikers, punk rock in the '70s,
> rap in the '80s, etc. I don't know why this is. I guess with me the acceptance
> of tattooing is pretty much due to the fact that I live very close to NYC &
> have hung out in the East Village since age 13. Even in NYC, tattoos are all
> the rage in the Village but on the Upper West Side they are not so popular. But
> to those of us who accept tattooing as "ok" it just becomes another form of
> personal expression. Portraits of children, parents, pets, are very popular
> among tattoo people.

Have a good night!
~Lisa

> .



>
> In the US I wonder if tatoos also were considered bad or to shy away from
> because of the feelings some had of Indians and their warpaint?  Maybe it
> made them think of that and then think voilent people?  Just wondering.

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Tattoo history/theories
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:18:45 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

I work for the U.S. Army Recruiting Battalion in Portland, Oregon.  Our
"area" includes the Pacific, including Hawaii, and American Samoa (how many
people out there knew that Samoa is as much an American holding as Puerto
Rico?  I didn't until I took this job. The people there are considered
American citizens, and have American passports.)  The U.S. Military is _the_
way off the islands for young people so many of them plan to go in the whole
time they are growing up.  Since Army regs forbid tattoos showing while you
are in uniform, those who choose to keep up the traditional tattooing plan
for it.  I had one soldier who was reportedly tattooed over his entire body
except what would show when he had on a Vee neck T shirt and knee length
shorts.  I once saw him without his shirt at the battalion picnic, and it
was the most incredible artwork of swirls and dots you have ever seen!  His
were all done with native dyes and sharp bamboo "combs".
    When we were in New Zealand one of the books we saw in a friends house
was a history of the Maori featuring some of the most amazing facial
tattoos!
    I suspect Americans have always considered tattooing as "barbaric".
Didn't some of the Eastern tribes do facial tattooing as well as "war
paint"?

Regina Romsey, OL

> -----Original Message-
> Subject: H-COST: Tattoo history/theories
>
>
>
> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
> Then, for the truly butch, there is the traditional Hawai'ian method,
> which I saw on some PBS program a while back, involving black dye and
> sharpened bamboo sticks, with lots of driving the bamboo into the
> client, to get the ink/dye to penetrate beneath the skin.  Major pain,
> but as the traditional style apparently dovetails with traditional
> religious practice, it's for a purpose.
>
> --
> It wasn't until the astonishing success of Dicken's _A Christmas Carol_
> that the holiday had any significant place in the English-speaking
> world.  Easter was considered much more significant.
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Italian Frescos-was New Italian Ren. fan
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:32:47 -0800
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-Poster: "Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com>

   I know it is in
> RENAISSANCE DRESS
> > IN ITALY 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, Bell & Hyman, London
> & Humanities
> > Press, New Jersey, 1981. ISBN 0-391-02362-4. Color Plate 4 (pg
> 57). (Part of
> > THE HISTORY OF DRESS SERIES)-but I haven't been able to find it.
> > If you want to look at what I am talking about-see
> > http://www.tiac.net/users/drbeer/joyce/ferrets/frhistpg.htm
>
> You probably won't be able to find Herald - I've been looking for
> *years* for a copy.

You want to really cry?  I got my copy of Herald for $8.50 because it had
been remaindered.  I bought only two more copies to use as gifts, and let it
go at that!

Regina Romsey, OL
>

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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>


> > RENAISSANCE DRESS
> > > IN ITALY 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, Bell & Hyman, London
> > & Humanities
> > > Press, New Jersey, 1981. ISBN 0-391-02362-4. Color Plate 4 (pg
> > 57). (Part of
> > You probably won't be able to find Herald - I've been looking for
> > *years* for a copy.
>
> You want to really cry?  I got my copy of Herald for $8.50 because it had
> been remaindered.  I bought only two more copies to use as gifts, and let
it
> go at that!
>
> Regina Romsey, OL

That wasn't nice. ;(  I have been looking too. My library doesn't even have
the book in it's catalog, I can't even borrow the thing!

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 01:11:00 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:35:36 -0800
Subject: H-COST: Tattoos
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I can tell you that from a traditional Jewish view people are created in the
image of God and should not be mutilated - or whatever term you want to use
for it.
The is one of the major reasons why the Nazi's tattooed Jews in the
concentration camps - to humiliate them.
 Personally have seen some very interesting tattoos in other cultures:
Japanese, Tahitian, Berber, etc. - but I would not choose to do that to my
own body.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:17:31 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:30:38 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


><< but her
> friends all think my pierced eyebrow is 'cool'. >>
>
>This position is coverable in period dress?

I am old enough to be wearing a cap for almost any period I do, and some
other kind of head wrap for those periods not having a cap.  This, and the
fact that the piercing mostly hides behind my glasses frames, keeps things
looking fine.  I thought of that before I got the piercing, and had it
positioned accordingly.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:18:08 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:26:15 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
>mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
>that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
>a later time as well?

"Bloomers" show up in Mary, Queen of Scots's inventories.  I would not be
surprised to find them in Elizabeth's.  Anybody out there have access to
any of her inventories?


Kayta
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:48:20 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: they wear different clothes (was Re: H-COST: re: clothing
  mistakes)
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Amen!  I for one have a tattoo and ears pierced in several places.  I am not 
>trashy.
>Judging people by their outsides just proves that some people have ugly 
>insides.  Who
>cares if I have an old ugly tattoo when I'm 70?  What do you care if my ear 
>scars?
>Sheesh!  At least I have my sight, my hearing, my limbs, and my mind!  And 
>last but
>not least, my heart.  Cynthia
>
>>         Well, my 'peeves' are people who decide that their way of dressing 
>is the
>> right way and the most pleasing to look at. 

I figure the worst that can happen is that I look my age and my teenage
daughter looks hers.  After all, I was a Hippie, and we looked pretty
strange to our parents.  If it wasn't OK for them to laugh then (disagree,
yes; laugh, no) then it isn't OK for me to laugh now. 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:18:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:23:06 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: fashion individualists
In-Reply-To: <7A10B95079@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

There will *always* be people who take the attitude of, "I 
>don't care how fashionable it is, it looks silly and I'm not wearing it!"

Certainly there were period reasons for not wearing the peascod belly
doublets, but can anyone quote me one?  Stubbes ought to have an opinion
here, but I don't have a copy.  

My curiosity is about the level of fashion individualism in this period.  I
know we in the 1990's wear pretty much what we like, or we do in California
anyway.  But our reasons for not liking something aren't necessarily their
reasons for not liking it or not wearing it.  Are there, in fact, *always*
such fashion individualists?  Or is there another reason why those who
didn't wear it didn't?


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:18:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:43:13 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>You're talking about a "gollar" I presume.  Try making it up in a
>light-weight wool lined with silk.  Many are very simple, and the lining
>doesn't always show. Or of course, save the garment until late
>afternoon/early evening.  

If you line with silk, make sure it's not slippery/shiny silk - or the
thing will slip off and end up on the ground all the time.  That or make
one which fastens in the front.


Kayta
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:47:28 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - shoes
In-Reply-To: <385697B6.ECE0E6DE@thibault.org>
References: <0.585fc772.2583c36c@aol.com>
 <38526C65.9FB0FB7@polarcomm.com>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
>> place?  And, since this is the 90's, why do shoes have to be so narrow?
>> And non-repairable, but so cheaply built they need repair soon after you
>> buy them?
>
>This is my favorite commentary on cheap shoes (or cheap anything, for
>that matter):

The way I've always heard it put is "Cheap (whatevers) aren't."  I usually
buy my shoes at the Thrift store, wear them the rest of the way out, and
buy another pair.  I lucked into a good pair of boots, the kind which were
expensive when new, and these I keep repaired because I can.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:23:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:39:31 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>The sources I have for these shoulder capes worn over the dress is that they
>were most commonly made of velvet or fur.  Does anyone know of a reference
>or picture that shows something a little lighter-like linen?  I will be
>wearing it in sunny Arizona, and would like the option of something cooler.
>Thanks in advance

If Germany had been Arizona, the Germans would have done things a little
differently.  It wasn't.  So either do it just like they did, and pray for
snow, or do it differently, and wear it all Summer.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:23:09 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:32:55 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: footbinding (was Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes)
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

or bind your feet, in this society 
>you must put up with some staring and turning up of noses. It's your choice.

Avoiding foot binding was never a choice in this country if you were female
and born before Birkenstocks became mass-market available.  It's always
been about too-narrow shoes with pointy toes.  My feet are permanently
deformed because that's the way women's shoes were built, and are still
built.  It wasn't my choice, especially since going barefoot was prohibited
in those same schools to which I was compelled, by law, to attend.  

When I was in high school (middle 60's), wearing men's round-toed white
tennis shoes for gym instead of the painfully shaped women's pointy-toed
ones got me stared at and got noses turned up in my direction.  Wearing
comfortable European foot-shaped shoes like Birkenstocks is still not
acceptable interview wear, nor are these perceived as acceptable when worn
with a woman's business suit.  Business casual, yes; business suit, no.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:25:09 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: New Italian Ren. fan
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 03:40:07 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

Copies do surface from time to time. I got mine at a SCA event 10 years ago.
The lady managed to get ahold of 15 copies. I would suggest to keep seaching
bookstores online and off.

Kassandra


-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>


> > RENAISSANCE DRESS
> > > IN ITALY 1400-1500, by Jacqueline Herald, Bell & Hyman, London
> > & Humanities
> > > Press, New Jersey, 1981. ISBN 0-391-02362-4. Color Plate 4 (pg
> > 57). (Part of
> > You probably won't be able to find Herald - I've been looking for
> > *years* for a copy.
>
> You want to really cry?  I got my copy of Herald for $8.50 because it had
> been remaindered.  I bought only two more copies to use as gifts, and let
it
> go at that!
>
> Regina Romsey, OL

That wasn't nice. ;(  I have been looking too. My library doesn't even have
the book in it's catalog, I can't even borrow the thing!

Michelle



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:25:23 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: The King and I
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 03:40:23 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

Yes, she was a remarkable woman but what the movies don't tell you is once
the King died and his son became he never communicated with Miss Leonowens.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----


Ann Leonowens was a remarkable woman and her books about life in the
Siamese Court are some of the only records of life there.  Even though the
biographers on the program disputed the truthfulness of her stories, they
praised her for pluck and determination for making herself a place in a
difficult world.

Kathlene


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:28:26 1999
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>I know for me personally the main reasoning is Biblical.  It would have to be 
>about destorying the temple of your body.  

One of the many things I don't understand about your religion is why
tattoos are destroying the temple of one's body, and ear piercing, common
among women of the period in which that book was written, is not.


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:37:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:50:42 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

Tattoos seem to be much more acceptable in Northern California than they
ever have been.  I am seeing more of them this year than I did last year.
Many clean cut and otherwise normal-looking young people are getting them.
Many otherwise normal-looking not-so-young people are getting them too.
Tattoo calenders are now sold in mainstream places like Barnes and Noble -
at least two different ones, as I recall.  Some real art is going into
tattoo design.  I think the popular perception of tattooed people as
automatically being trashy or scary is changing.  (At the same time,
fetishwear is coming out of its closet and going mainstream, and not being
perceived as something to hide or be embarrassed about.)

>Kelly-
>
>>         I believe you are right that some people associate tattoos & even
>> piercings with things that have historically threatened polite, Christian
>> society & family values-Native Americans' war paint, "violent" savages both
>> here & abroad in Africa, Asia; then later the sailors, the bikers, punk 
>rockers
>> etc. This is why it is so visually striking & connote "rebellion," &
>> anti-social behavior. It just disturbs some people-even on this list it's
>> caused some rather harsh disagreement & is viewed by some as just hideously
>> wrong. I think demographics & the culture within those demographics also 
>play a
>> role in why certain individuals are instinctively turned off by most
>> manifestations of tribal spirit such as tattoos, bikers, punk rock in the 
>'70s,
>> rap in the '80s, etc. I don't know why this is. I guess with me the 
>acceptance
>> of tattooing is pretty much due to the fact that I live very close to NYC &
>> have hung out in the East Village since age 13. Even in NYC, tattoos are all
>> the rage in the Village but on the Upper West Side they are not so 
>popular. But
>> to those of us who accept tattooing as "ok" it just becomes another form of
>> personal expression. Portraits of children, parents, pets, are very popular
>> among tattoo people.
>
>Have a good night!
>~Lisa
>
>> .
>
>
>
>>
>> In the US I wonder if tatoos also were considered bad or to shy away from
>> because of the feelings some had of Indians and their warpaint?  Maybe it
>> made them think of that and then think voilent people?  Just wondering.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME



Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:39:18 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Was ugly clothes, now Anne of Cleves
In-Reply-To: <01a601bf46a7$10c08b40$57d2fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

There are several dresses from that part of Germany in M. Davenport's
costume book.  My copy is so old it doesn't have an ISBN number - sorry.

>   Has anyone made a copy of the dress Anne of Cleves wore for the betrothal
>portrait?  I can see that it is a combination overdress with underdress but
>I wanted pointers, especially what *not* to do. ;)
>    There is some details specific to her hat in the Herbert Norris, Tudor
>Costume book but, information on the dress itself is lacking.  Has anyone
>found any sources that gives details on how to do that style of dress? 


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 02:49:46 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Was ugly clothes, now Anne of Cleves
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 04:04:45 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

the ISBN numer is 0-517-037165

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----

-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

There are several dresses from that part of Germany in M. Davenport's
costume book.  My copy is so old it doesn't have an ISBN number - sorry.

>   Has anyone made a copy of the dress Anne of Cleves wore for the
betrothal
>portrait?  I can see that it is a combination overdress with underdress but
>I wanted pointers, especially what *not* to do. ;)
>    There is some details specific to her hat in the Herbert Norris, Tudor
>Costume book but, information on the dress itself is lacking.  Has anyone
>found any sources that gives details on how to do that style of dress?


Kayta
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 03:21:44 1999
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To: lilinah@grin.net
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: H-COST: 12th Century Muslim Egyptian stockings
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

First, this is cross-posted to all the lists i mentioned these on, so 
i apologize to those who will see this message more than once.

Now, I mentioned that i was making a pair of stockings based on a 
Medieval Egyptian one.

Well, i finally figured out how to manipulate the scans i made of my 
socks, and they're on line:
http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/EgyptKnit1.html

It's just one page with a little history of knitting, and pictures of 
the original find and the ones i made based on it. I will be 
up-loading charts of the patterns very soon, maybe even tonight, but 
i will have to write a page of html to go with them :-)

I'm entirely self-taught, and i'd never made socks before or done any 
stranded knitting, and they are only my third knitting project ever. 
This pair of socks are not authentic reproductions. Mine are knit 
from the top down, while the original is knit from the toe up. Mine 
are a wool-blend, while the original is cotton.

I'm now making a second pair, NOT based on any existing socks, but 
rather so i can learn more authentic techniques, like knitting from 
the toe up, and trying a different kind of authentic heel. When i get 
a bit farther on the one i've started, i'll scan it too.

Anahita Gauri al-shazhiya bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi

Ride your camel to Beyt Anahita, a Maghribi domicile
http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/
Maghribi and Andalusian costuming and other things Near Eastern
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 05:35:36 1999
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Clothing Mistakes
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Karen
 
> Oh Teddy, I'm so sorry I missed you in full Cavalier! It must have
> been fabulous! Next time I'm over, I want to see more of your stuff!!!

I don't even have photographs of me in a lot of my costumes (and a 
lot of them no longer fit...<g>) Even if I had, my sucess with 
scanning them has been terrible (Tenebrae can attest to this, she 
managed to get 3 of them into a viewable form and put them up on 
a Webpage for me, but it wasn't straightforward.)

Next time you're over, perhaps we can have a fashion show....<g>


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 06:09:28 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 22:30:54 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Actually there is a pair of drawers in existance from Italian Renaissance
times - a friend of mine has a photo of them in one of the books from an
Italian museum - and I can't remember which one!

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

Visit D'Realm of the Fairies:  http://www.thesitefights.com/fairies

Do you fight?  http://www.thesitefighs.com



>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 06:43:06 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: Santa Cloths (was Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes)
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 23:03:40 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

>And wouldn't a presentation of  historical Santas be stunning?

Kate

Stop it at once!  There is only 1.5 weeks til christmas - and evil minds
(OK:  costuming minds - same thing really <g>) work overtime.

However  - it would be a great idea.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

Visit D'Realm of the Fairies:  http://www.thesitefights.com/fairies

Do you fight?  http://www.thesitefighs.com



>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 07:09:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:28:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19991213035446.00b8def0@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Mon, 13 Dec 1999, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
> Symmetrical shoes.  My big toe is the longest, so why is the pointy part
> adjacent to my middle toe?  And why do shoes have to be pointy in the first
> place?  And, since this is the 90's, why do shoes have to be so narrow?
> And non-repairable, but so cheaply built they need repair soon after you
> buy them?
> 
> snip

Hey, now -- my middle toe is longer than the other ones (yes, I know
that's unusal), so maybe the shoe designers have feet like mine (grin)!

-- Mara

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 07:32:08 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 1580 German shoulder cape material?
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 06:51:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

<<If Germany had been Arizona, the Germans would have done things a little
differently.  It wasn't.  So either do it just like they did, and pray for
snow, or do it differently, and wear it all Summer.>>

Gee thanks for the reproof-I wasn't looking for an excuse to do something
different from what they did, I was looking for a reference to whether they
did do something different.  I have lived in Germany, and though it isn't as
warm as Arizona-they do have summers. 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 07:35:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:55:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
In-Reply-To: <0.25cf086f.25884f54@aol.com>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

On Tue, 14 Dec 1999 AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:
> Yes....and discuss tattoos instead of emoting over them.
> 
> Where do they come from? Why in Western culture should they have a negative 
> connotation? I find this interesting.
(snip)

I believe that tattoos got a bad rap in Western culture because of their
being forbidden in the Old Testament (partly).  I've read that tattoos
were not uncommon among members of certain medieval trade guilds, but
can't lay my hands on that particular piece of info right now.  They fell
into disfavor at some point (?), but had a resurgence when sailors started
coming into contact with cultures in the South Seas who used them for
tribal markings.  --Does anyone know whether tattoos were used by sailors
for purposes of identification (in case one drowned)?  I've also read that
sailors sometimes wore an earring so that they had something of value
(the gold earring) to pay for their burial if they died far from home.
But I don't know if that's an old salty tale or whether it has a basis in
fact.

Mara

(One of these days I'm going to get that red snake tattoo... but it will
have personal/spiritual significance to me, and will NOT be in a place
where people can see it (i.e., lower back)).

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 07:48:48 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 09:07:42 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

Please can we DROP this subject?  Let's move on before the list is ruined 
with people discussing the very thing that makes us great, our differences.

Darla
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 08:17:15 1999
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com


> Actually there is a pair of drawers in existance from Italian Renaissance
> times - a friend of mine has a photo of them in one of the books from an
> Italian museum - and I can't remember which one!

Milia Davenport's costume book has pictures of Italian drawers (2 
sets). 

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 08:34:27 1999
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Date: 15 Dec 99 07:53:22 MST
From: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Supplies help thanks
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-Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>

Thanks guys...I knew that I could count on you to come through with the help I
needed.  Kyna I will probably be contacting you today as what you have is
exactly what I'm looking for...the eye/eye combination of clasps.

Plus now I have lots of new web catalogs to look through :)

Beth
Orlaith of Storvik
Baheera Nafeesa Bint Akil

but...WHY DID THE CHICKEN CROSS THE ROAD?
FOX MULDER: You saw it cross the road with your own eyes. How many more
chickens have to cross before you believe it?




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 08:46:03 1999
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From: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Anna and the King
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-Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>

I saw a preview of Anna and the King last night.  A real GO SEE.  I told my
mom that it is on top of next year's christmas list.  The period is wrong for
me to judge much about the costumes, but the thing that stood out as wrong was
she had skirts and blouses on for most of the movie.  I seem to recall a
conversation on the list a while ago about skirt and blouses out of different
materials not being period for the civil war era.

The credits listed them working with eastern clothing historians and they
looked pretty good to me....of course I am looking at them as OHHHH pretty and
it looks generally right rather then the is that historically correct.

Just hope that when you go see it they don't make the same mistake this
theater did...they reversed reels 2 and 3.  Funny I don't remember the ball
coming before she is introduced to the children or Tuck Tim

Orlaith

This employee is depriving a village somewhere of its idiot.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 08:57:59 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: fashion individualists
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> Certainly there were period reasons for not wearing the peascod belly
> doublets, but can anyone quote me one?  Stubbes ought to have an opinion
> here, but I don't have a copy.  


Oh, he ranted and raved about it at great length:

   "Their dublettes are noe lesse monstrous than the reste; For now the
   fashion is to have them hang down to the middle of their theighes, or
   at least to their privie members, beeing so harde-quilted, and
   stuffed, bombasted and sewed, as they can neither woorke, nor yet well
   plaie in them, through the excessive heate thereof: and therefore are
   forced to wear them loose about them for the most part: otherwise they
   could verie hardly eyther stoupe downe, or bowe themselves to the
   grounde, soe styffe and sturdy they stand about them.
   
   Now, what handsomnes can be in these dubblettes which stand on their
   bellies like, or muche bigger than, a mans codpeece ( so as their
   bellies are thi their bellies are thicker than all their bodyes
   besyde) let wyse men judge; For for my parte, handsomnes in them I see
   none, and muche lesse profyte. And to be plaine, I never sawe any
   weare them, but I supposed him to be a man inclined to gourmandice,
   gluttonie, and such like.
   
   For what may these great bellies signifie else than that either they
   are such, or els are affected that way? ...For certain I am there was
   never any kinde of appatell ever invented that could more
   disproportion the body of man than these Dublets with great bellies,
   hanging down beneath their Pudenda (as I have said), & stuffed with
   foure, five or six pound of Bombast at the least. I say nothing of
   what their Dublets be made, some of Saten, Taffatie, silk, Grograine,
   Chamlet, gold, silver, & what not; slashed, jagged, cut, carved,
   pincked and laced with all kinde of costly lace of divers and sundry
   colours, for if I should stand upon these particularities, rather time
   then matter would be wanting."

In the 1877 edition of Stubbes' Anatomie, there's a woodcut of two men:
one a fashionable english gentleman, with a peascod doublet close-fitted
to his body, and the other a countryman, no peascod in sight.

Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 10:41:54 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: RE: H-COST: Tattoo history/theories
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

"Wanda Pease" <wandapease@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>>Didn't some of the Eastern tribes do facial tattooing as well as "war
paint"?<<
Women in one of the largest Native groups in Canada, the Cree, traditionally 
tattooed their faces. One, two, or three stripes went down from the centre 
of the lower lip down to the chin; stripes also went from the corner of the 
mouth to the side of the face. I don't recall any references to Cree men 
getting tattoos, but voyageurs sometimes did (c. 1800).

Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 10:51:06 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes - several replies
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 3:39:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<< I am old enough to be wearing a cap for almost any period I do, and some
 other kind of head wrap for those periods not having a cap. >>

Thank God....I thought you might be wearing a bustle or pannier on your head!
  [I'm KIDDING!]  :-)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 10:58:47 1999
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 3:39:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<< Are there, in fact, *always*
 such fashion individualists?  >>

I'd say not in social circles....where *fashion* originates [Working people 
do not create fashion.....unless of course someone in the social set decides 
a "work look" is fashionable.] Remember there are often strict rules as to 
what one may wear to where ever...the opera, a ball, court. Could we tell the 
difference between an opera gown & a ball gown? Someone in every period could.
My mother laments to this day about: "Everything was great 'til the 60s and 
that 'do your own thing' mentality." What she means is before the 60's you 
wore a cocktail dress for a cocktail party and a dinner dress to a dinner 
party. You didn't just wear jeans everywhere.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:05:14 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 09:24:47 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> My understanding is that it is actually the color of raw flesh, which
> could be understood as a deep shade of pink, I suppose, depending on the
> flesh in question!

At the risk of being crude, all flesh, when raw, the same color.  Flesh not
being skin, but under the skin, is all the same color.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>>And wouldn't a presentation of  historical Santas be stunning?
>


If you're interested in this subjuect, check out the doll collecting
magazines. Santas are a popular specialty, and the variety is huge.  There
are some stunning Santas being made, with wonderful costuming.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:13:05 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 12:31:01 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 3:58:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
kayta@slip.net writes:

<<  think the popular perception of tattooed people as
 automatically being trashy or scary is changing.  >>

Me too. But then I thought about long hair & beards on men. When I was a 
teen, this was "a personal expression". I even got thrown out of English 
class once because the teacher thought my hair was too long. [I was never 
sure what the length of my hair had to do with my ability to learn 
English...but I was delighted to skip class!] Today you might say....as I 
did....long hair is acceptable.

But is it? Was it?

I look at "TV Land" and notice on episodes of "Welcome Back Carter" that, yes 
John Travolta has long-ish hair, but not long hair. No one does. It all stops 
about mid ear. If Prime Time TV is an indicator of what TV exec's think will 
be acceptable to the general public, how acceptable is long hair even in the 
seventies?

Also consider: Is a man with shoulder length hair more likely to get that 
Wall Street job than a clean cut guy.....even today? How about that Graphic 
Artist opening at the ad agency?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:16:25 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: "'aleed@dnaco.net'" <aleed@dnaco.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: fashion individualists
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 10:34:56 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Might this person have made similar comments about the breeches(upperstocks)
men wore of the same period?  I always wondered if some men rejected the
pumpkin type.  Would anyone of fashion stuck with a more moderate pair of
breeches (in my mind, I mean canions, tight breeches which fit just above
the knee) or would they have been considered individualists.  Most of the
pictures I have seen show men in the former not the latter.  The reason I
ask is my husband refuses to wear the puffy ones and I haven't been able to
convince him that anyone would have worn the other.


-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> 
> Certainly there were period reasons for not wearing the peascod belly
> doublets, but can anyone quote me one?  Stubbes ought to have an opinion
> here, but I don't have a copy.  


Oh, he ranted and raved about it at great length:

   "Their dublettes are noe lesse monstrous than the reste; For now the
   fashion is to have them hang down to the middle of their theighes, or
   at least to their privie members, beeing so harde-quilted, and
   stuffed, bombasted and sewed, as they can neither woorke, nor yet well
   plaie in them, through the excessive heate thereof: and therefore are
   forced to wear them loose about them for the most part: otherwise they
   could verie hardly eyther stoupe downe, or bowe themselves to the
   grounde, soe styffe and sturdy they stand about them.
   
   Now, what handsomnes can be in these dubblettes which stand on their
   bellies like, or muche bigger than, a mans codpeece ( so as their
   bellies are thi their bellies are thicker than all their bodyes
   besyde) let wyse men judge; For for my parte, handsomnes in them I see
   none, and muche lesse profyte. And to be plaine, I never sawe any
   weare them, but I supposed him to be a man inclined to gourmandice,
   gluttonie, and such like.
   
   For what may these great bellies signifie else than that either they
   are such, or els are affected that way? ...For certain I am there was
   never any kinde of appatell ever invented that could more
   disproportion the body of man than these Dublets with great bellies,
   hanging down beneath their Pudenda (as I have said), & stuffed with
   foure, five or six pound of Bombast at the least. I say nothing of
   what their Dublets be made, some of Saten, Taffatie, silk, Grograine,
   Chamlet, gold, silver, & what not; slashed, jagged, cut, carved,
   pincked and laced with all kinde of costly lace of divers and sundry
   colours, for if I should stand upon these particularities, rather time
   then matter would be wanting."

In the 1877 edition of Stubbes' Anatomie, there's a woodcut of two men:
one a fashionable english gentleman, with a peascod doublet close-fitted
to his body, and the other a countryman, no peascod in sight.

Drea

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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 9:11:42 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
DDunker@aol.com writes:

<< 
 Please can we DROP this subject?  Let's move on before the list is ruined 
 with people discussing the very thing that makes us great, our differences.
  >>

 So... celebrate our diversity but pretend we're all the same?

You don't have to participate or read the tread if you don't like it but I 
have found everyone's comments interesting....even the flames.

Just skip it if it bothers you.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:33:45 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:57:06 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: "long-haired hippie freaks..."
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> Also consider: Is a man with shoulder length hair more likely to get that 
> Wall Street job than a clean cut guy.....even today? How about that Graphic 
> Artist opening at the ad agency?

Recently there was a big hullaballoo at the University of Nebraska when a
long-haired (male) law student was refused a place in a workshop/class
that would be dealing with real cases and appearing in court because of
the length of his hair.

Standards are constantly being challanged, and challange allows change.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:35:19 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: carnation
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

I'm perfectly willing to believe that all humans are the same shade under
the skin, I know for a fact that food animals are not the same color,
there is a noticable difference between beef and pork, and a dramatic
difference between hooved animal flesh and fowl flesh. So I suppose that
it would depend on which flesh we were discussing.

Karen

  
> At the risk of being crude, all flesh, when raw, the same color.  
> Flesh not
> being skin, but under the skin, is all the same color.
> 
> Cynthia
>
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 11:55:41 1999
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From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Acapulco
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

I made two trips to Mexico in the early 70's and early 80's (total of
six weeks).  Undoubtedly things have changed but...at that time, 
Acapulco was so touristy as to be unrecognizable as Mexico.  I wouldn't 
look for much there in the way of textiles. A good place for textiles is
Oaxaca, where they do a lot of colored embroidery on cotton (shirts,
dresses, etc.) and you can also get very nice traditional black
silk rebozos (shawls) or more tourist-oriented shawls of cotton in
many colors and styles, rugs, and wool ponchos.  Different cities 
specialize in different items: Taxco is a silver center, Oaxaca is 
textiles and black pottery, etc.  However, all the areas seem to
send their materials to Mexico City, which is the only place I know
of that carries some of the best of the wares from all over the
country (although at a higher price than getting it locally).  
In addition, Mexico City has incredible antique shops, markets 
(mercados), etc.  

Acapulco's beach is BEAUTIFUL but it's not really "Mexico" anymore 
than DisneyWorld is representative of the United States.  The prices 
are also very high since the local economy seems totally dependant on
international tourism.  Personal opinion--no offense meant.

-------------------
At 12:24 AM 12/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I've recently learned that I'm going to be taking a trip to Acapulco in 
>February.  As all the literature on the web seems geared towards the 
>sun-worshipping type of person (which I'm not), I thought I'd ask you 
>folks for advice.
>
>Has anyone been there?  Do you have any advice about activities, places 
>to see, items to shop for?  Obviously I'm interested in anything having 
>to do with fabric :) but I'd also be interested in whatever local 
>handcrafts may be available.
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Also consider: Is a man with shoulder length hair more likely to get that
> Wall Street job than a clean cut guy.....even today? How about that Graphic
> Artist opening at the ad agency?

But maybe that man with long hair or that woman with a tattoo don't *want* that
job.  And I, for one, think this is changing.  There are several ads on TV right
now showing young people with pink or yellow hair giving their parents *good*
advise on purchasing stock and that type of thing.  An obvious statement about
our changing times.  Thank God our social mores are changing from the stuffed
shirt, judgemental views that judge a person's intelligence and worth by the
color of their hair or skin, be it natural or decorative to something more
forgiving, more in tune with our insides.

Fwiw and my $.02,
Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:31:04 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 13:44:44 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 1:19:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< There are several ads on TV right
 now showing young people with pink or yellow hair giving their parents *good*
 advise on purchasing stock and that type of thing. >>

But these ads use a reversal of the prevailing attitude as a joke. I don't 
see it as an indication of change but a confirmation of the norm.

<<Thank God our social mores are changing from the stuffed
shirt, judgmental views that judge a person's intelligence and worth by the
color of their hair or skin, be it natural or decorative to something more
forgiving, more in tune with our insides.>>

Where is this happening?

 It may be shifting but it's not disappearing, this judgment. It will never 
disappear. I don't mean to be cynical but I think it's just the way our 
brains work. Some individuals deal with it better than others....that's for 
sure!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:34:57 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Tattoo history/theories
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>


>    When we were in New Zealand one of the books we saw in a friends house
>was a history of the Maori featuring some of the most amazing facial
>tattoos!

There's a Samoan or Maori working at a local grocery store.  He has several
geometric tattoos on his arms, and told me a little about it.  He says yes,
it takes a long time and it hurts, but there's a big ceremony which goes
with it, with a lot of support for the tattooee.  Ocasionally he gets to go
back home for additions.


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:43:41 1999
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-Poster: scootnik@ix.netcom.com

Hi All, I'm new here and new to Costuming as well. Could some one please 
suggest a book (or two...) that gives the proper undergarments to wear for 
period costumes. I'd like a book specifically on Corsetry as well. The time 
span needs to be fairly wide for both subjects, I'd like a good overview 
rather that a book on just one era. Thanks for your help, please excuse if 
this subject has been covered here before, Lynne

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:51:08 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:06:16 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Hi All, I'm new here and new to Costuming as well. Could some one please
> suggest a book (or two...) that gives the proper undergarments to wear for
> period costumes.

Welcome!

I'm sure many folks have info.  Can you elaborate with a place and time?  :)

~M~
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 12:51:32 1999
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Corsets & Crinolines by Nora Waugh is the best comprehensive book on the
history of corsets, hoopskirts and fashionable support around.  It
contains patterns for various corsets & hoops,lots of contemporary
literary quotes and references, and good info of all sorts.  She covers
1600 to around 1920.

Drea



 On Wed, 15 Dec 1999
scootnik@ix.netcom.com wrote:

> 
> -Poster: scootnik@ix.netcom.com
> 
> Hi All, I'm new here and new to Costuming as well. Could some one please 
> suggest a book (or two...) that gives the proper undergarments to wear for 
> period costumes. I'd like a book specifically on Corsetry as well. The time 
> span needs to be fairly wide for both subjects, I'd like a good overview 
> rather that a book on just one era. Thanks for your help, please excuse if 
> this subject has been covered here before, Lynne
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 13:19:48 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: fashion individualists
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:36:55 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>Oh, he [Stubbes] ranted and raved about it at great length...
Thank-you, Drea,  that was a hoot!

On to a different fashion conceit, the most incomprehendable to me was the
short fad to look pregnant in the 19th c.
In Paris, you could by "tournures a 3, 4 et 6 mois" -- pads for 3, 4 and 6
months.  There's a cartoon from Punch showing the side view cut-away of the
well-padded woman.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 13:23:21 1999
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>From another list I'm on:

>Not a particularly interesting bit of knowledge, but one pertinant to
>our little cause.  The Internet Movie Database is currently taking a
>poll on who has played the best Queen Elizabeth.  Cate Blanchett is in
>the lead with Judi Dench in a relatively close second.  For all of you
>interested in placing your votes the URL is:
>
>http:\\www.imdb.com

LynnD
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:46:41 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Oh, and the alb is dated 1320-1340.

Merouda/Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: carnation
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:47:40 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>> My understanding is that it is actually the color of raw flesh, which
>> could be understood as a deep shade of pink, I suppose, depending on the
>> flesh in question!

>At the risk of being crude, all flesh, when raw, the same color.  Flesh not
>being skin, but under the skin, is all the same color.

Flesh of what? Trout, veal & chicken all look very different.  Point being
that I dont think you can reverse-engineer the actual color from the name.
Find a contemp. description.  Perhaps "Mergatroyd had his picture painted
for the Queen. He was wearing that horrid carnation concotion."  Then find
the picture.  Guessing is not good research.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 12:56:21 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

I'm new to this subject.  What does alb stand for (carbon dating or
something?)?  And what does waleless corduroy look like?      When I try to
envision it velveteen comes to mind.

-----Original Message-----
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris [mailto:keltia@serv.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 12:47 PM
To: Historic Needlework; Historical Costume; SCA Garb
Subject: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!



-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Oh, and the alb is dated 1320-1340.

Merouda/Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 14:08:05 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: "H-COST" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 15:26:53 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
CC: "Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb" <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>


> Murphy's Laws of Sewing (Anonymous) 

> Whenever the construction process is going well the bobbin thread runs out.

And its correlation: The bobbin thread always runs out six inches before the end of a 10 
yard hem!

--Jessica/Muireann
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 14:26:19 1999
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To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
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-Poster: ches@io.com

An Alb is a priest's vestment. From http://www.harcourts.com/clergy.htm

Among Christians, for example, the stole, a scarf adopted as the
distinctive sign of the ordained minister, was traditionally viewed as a
yoke, symbolizing that the wearer was a servant of God. The eucharistic
vestments worn by Roman Catholics, Episcopalians, and Lutherans include
the alb, a white floor-length tunic (symbolizing purity) tied at the waist
with a rope cincture, over which is worn the chasuble, a full cloak put on
over the head. The amice, often made in the form of a collar or hood
(symbolizing the helmet of salvation), is wrapped around the neck under
the alb. The maniple, a length of material worn over the left arm, was
originally a napkin and symbolizes the role of the minister as servant of
the people of God. 



Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Wed, 15 Dec 1999, Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001) wrote:

> Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 12:56:21 -0700
> From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: RE: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> 
> I'm new to this subject.  What does alb stand for (carbon dating or
> something?)?  And what does waleless corduroy look like?      When I try to
> envision it velveteen comes to mind.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris [mailto:keltia@serv.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 12:47 PM
> To: Historic Needlework; Historical Costume; SCA Garb
> Subject: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
> 
> 
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> Oh, and the alb is dated 1320-1340.
> 
> Merouda/Cynthia
> 
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 14:36:42 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 14:58:25 -0600
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

I'm going to try to NOT sound too negative with this post, but simple
observation leads me to this opinion.....................

> But maybe that man with long hair or that woman with a tattoo don't
*want* that
> job.  

Then they won't go to the interview:-)

> And I, for one, think this is changing.  There are several ads on TV
right
> now showing young people with pink or yellow hair giving their parents
*good*
> advise on purchasing stock and that type of thing.  

That's because that's what the advertisers want you to think. They can give
those kids any lines they want them to say. My experience with these young
folks is completely different..............I only WISH they would talk to
me about things like the stock market, world/current events, etc.

I teach high school art and special ed (CWC). I'm sorry to have to say
this, but the kids with the blue hair and piercings aren't the ones
interested in the stock market, aren't the ones that are going to go to
college, aren't the ones that are going to try to do anything with their
lives other than flipping burgers because they just want to listen to their
music and work the minimum that they can........I dialogue with them all
the time. Now, don't get me wrong, I love these kids, they're my students
and I care about them, but they don't keep up. They color their hair and
pierce their bodies for "shock" value only and I don't think that Technical
Writing Manager, or that man looking to hire a graphic artist to deal with
the public cares anything about their ability to make people stare at them.

> An obvious statement about
> our changing times.  Thank God our social mores are changing from the
stuffed
> shirt, judgemental views that judge a person's intelligence and worth by
the
> color of their hair or skin, be it natural or decorative to something
more
> forgiving, more in tune with our insides.

We (my husband and I) are VERY open-minded folks and accepting of everyone,
but by simple observation of the teens and 20-somethings, I have to say, I
worry about the type of adults they're going to be. We went to our favorite
"whole-food" cafe and got the worst service we had EVER had because all our
waitress seemed concerned with was the new "tangles" in her hair that she
was trying to get to dread. We sat back and watched her completely absorbed
in herself and her hair and ignore most of her customers.

My problem with this is that they are trying to be different, just like
everyone else.

Look at the way they put their clothes together, do you think they will do
the research and put the effort into a well-made, well-fitting, authentic
costume? My guess is, no.....they will throw some things together, probably
tear it somewhere on purpose, make it ill fitting, do their hair strange
and demand that you accept their interpretation of the costume. 

We just have to decide what we're going to accept.

I have a button I wear that says, "Just because no one understands you,
doesn't make you an artist." 

All in good spirits,
Amanda




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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 13:22:42 -0600 (EST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: The King and I
In-Reply-To: <NDBBKIFGIKMKADKCBKIEOEDPCAAA.Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

here is the url for the movie, there is a quicktime interview with the
costumer that is just facinating!!

http://www.annaandtheking.com/images/landing/html_entry.gif

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 14:48:51 1999
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References: <19991214.204442.-32587.0.seamstrix@juno.com> <3857CEDF.726FFA45@serv.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: carnation
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 12:48:50 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>


> > My understanding is that it is actually the color of raw flesh, which
> > could be understood as a deep shade of pink, I suppose, depending on the
> > flesh in question!
>
> At the risk of being crude, all flesh, when raw, the same color.  Flesh
not
> being skin, but under the skin, is all the same color.

Funny. I took the first comment to refer to the "freshness" of the flesh.

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From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: Santa Cloths (was Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  >>And wouldn't a presentation of  historical Santas be stunning?
>  > 
>  
>  If you're interested in this subjuect, check out the doll collecting
>  magazines. Santas are a popular specialty, and the variety is huge. 
There
>  are some stunning Santas being made, with wonderful costuming.
>  
>  Margo

Oh, drat! Another hobby! Oh, wait, that still falls under the umbrella of
costuming. I'm safe. *whew!*
Now, are there any folks in the Seattle area interested in 'The Great Santa
Project'?

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 14:50:53 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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Subject: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

I am thumbing through:

Opus Anglicanum: English Medieval Embroidery
The Victoria & Albert Musuem
26 September to 24 November 1963
The Arts Council 1963
Printed in England at The Curwen Press, Plaistow, Long E.13
Exhibit selected by Donald King, deputy keeper of Textiles at the V&S
(at the time)
No ISBN

Plate 14 shows appliqued Opus Anglicanum onto velvet.  But the velvet
is *exactly* like waleles corduroy.  And it is on an Alb, clerical of
course, but still a garment.

Yes!
Merouda/Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 14:13:01 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu



On Wed, 15 Dec 1999, Amanda Reeves wrote:
> 
> We (my husband and I) are VERY open-minded folks and accepting of everyone,
> but by simple observation of the teens and 20-somethings, I have to say, I
> worry about the type of adults they're going to be. We went to our favorite
> "whole-food" cafe and got the worst service we had EVER had because all our
> waitress seemed concerned with was the new "tangles" in her hair that she
> was trying to get to dread. We sat back and watched her completely absorbed
> in herself and her hair and ignore most of her customers.

	What makes that different from the bad service that I got last night
from a very well, but very conventionally dressed, waitress, who was more
interested in gossiping with the other servers, checking her mainstream, but
fashionable make-up, and trying not to mar her salon-done nails.  And I went
to high school with plenty of girls who looked like her who didn't do squat in
the classroom.
> 
> Look at the way they put their clothes together, do you think they will do
> the research and put the effort into a well-made, well-fitting, authentic
> costume? My guess is, no.....they will throw some things together, probably
> tear it somewhere on purpose, make it ill fitting, do their hair strange
> and demand that you accept their interpretation of the costume. 

	And people like the one that I mentioned above, do you think that she
wants to do research and wear *historical* clothing.  No, she will make a
outfit that makes her look 20th-century pretty, not be caught dead in proper
head gear, and expect you to tell her how lovely she looks.

	My point (and I do have one) is that all groups of people contain
people who are lazy and self-absorbed and that I have met (percentage wise)
more "normal" people who are like that as I have people who look strange.

-Katie (who has a tatoo  and unhistorically short hair,
none of which shows when I am wearing clothing that is as well made, well
fitting and authentic as I can make it)

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

> > Look at the way they put their clothes together, do you think they will
do
> > the research and put the effort into a well-made, well-fitting,
authentic
> > costume? My guess is, no.....they will throw some things together,
probably
> > tear it somewhere on purpose, make it ill fitting, do their hair strange
> > and demand that you accept their interpretation of the costume.
>
> And people like the one that I mentioned above, do you think that she
> wants to do research and wear *historical* clothing.  No, she will make a
> outfit that makes her look 20th-century pretty, not be caught dead in
proper
> head gear, and expect you to tell her how lovely she looks.
>
How do you know either of these cases to be true?  When I first got into the
SCA, at age 15, I had dyed my hair purple and wore a nose ring (back when
only Hindi women wore them).  I did everything I could to be very authentic
in my costuming.

Andrea

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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu



On Wed, 15 Dec 1999, Andrea Gideon wrote:
> >
> > And people like the one that I mentioned above, do you think that she
> > wants to do research and wear *historical* clothing.  No, she will make a
> > outfit that makes her look 20th-century pretty, not be caught dead in
> proper
> > head gear, and expect you to tell her how lovely she looks.
> >
> How do you know either of these cases to be true?  When I first got into the
> SCA, at age 15, I had dyed my hair purple and wore a nose ring (back when
> only Hindi women wore them).  I did everything I could to be very authentic
> in my costuming.

	Well, I only wrote the part that I left quoted in the message, and I
can't answer for the other poster (stichwitch?), that said, I don't pretend
that my example is true all of the time.  I overstated my case deliberatly to
point out that people who wear unconventional dress are no more likely to be
indifferent to authenticity than people who don't.  OTOH, my particular hobby,
ACW reenactment contains a fair number of women who want to be Scarrlett
O'Hara and dress accordingly, none of them that I have seen wear anything
other than conventional clothing.

-Katie

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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/99 2:48:46 AM Central Standard Time, kayta@slip.net 
writes:

<< 
 One of the many things I don't understand about your religion is why
 tattoos are destroying the temple of one's body, and ear piercing, common
 among women of the period in which that book was written, is not. >>

I know some of the divisions of the denomanation don't allow ear piercing or 
short hair for women.  I married a Mennonite but was raised Conservative 
Baptist.  Now some of the Mennonite dress more like Amish, who broke from the 
Mennonite Church.  Now some, like our Church wear pants, can wear their hair 
short, pierce their ears.  I have pierced ears but I chose to wear my hair 
long.  Long hair is a covering and a glory to women, that is why the Church 
historically like long hair on women.  A womens adornment is supposed to be 
on the inside and not the outside.  The outside would be fancy hairstyles, 
makeup, jewelry, tatoos, very fancy clothes.  Now I have been known to make 
my hair up and wear fancy clothes but the tatoos are permant and therefore 
destory the body.  Since tatooing is "religious" to some cultures, by not 
tatooing it would not be conforming to "religions" that don't hold the same 
beliefs as ours.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 15:44:36 1999
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-Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>

Greetings,

A while ago, I posted about a tunic that I was making for my lord. The tunic is long (just past the knees), made from red/scarlet wool gabardine, with the sleeves and hem trimmed with 2 inch wide bands of royal blue wool crepe. There is also a white cotton undertunic that goes with it, which is machine embroidered in red and blue, showing at the neck, sleeves and hem.

I had made this ensemble for my lord as an anniversary present, and I was hoping that it would change his mind as to the fact that T-tunics can't be fancy, or for court garb. Unfortunately I got my hopes up too high, it seems.

My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a dress, it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the average person can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more embellishment on it (even then....?).  

So, I am posting to find out what my fellow costumers can suggest that I do with this. I have seen some trim at the fabric store (leaf/fleur-de-lis scroll work on black in silver thread), but I am reluctant to put that on for several reasons. First, it's $6/m. Second, I want this tunic to be as period as humanly possible (its one of the first pieces I have done that I would consider competing with). And third, it is very difficult to place straight trim on a curved seam (like the neck or hem).

I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made. (Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The intended period is very late 12th century.

Help me out once again, all you marvelous people!

Thanks,

Meghan of Caerleon 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 15:52:47 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Daguerrotypes on-line
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 14:11:56 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Daguerrotypes (nice .gifs) from the Augustus Washington exhibit at the
National Portrait Gallery (Smithsonian).
http://www.npg.si.edu/exh/awash/ the 1844-54 portraits are lovely.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 15:53:49 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

I say keep the tunic, dump the lord!  I love everything that my wife has
ever made for me.  And to turn your nose up at a handmade anniversary
present is just.........too rotten for words.  I may not be 100% crazy about
everything she has ever made for me, but I would never tell her that,
because it's not the items that maters it the love that went into making it.

Yours Stephen

"Oh well, the best layed plans of mice."
"And men."
"Men?  What have men got to do with it!"



-----Original Message-----
From: S Nielsen [mailto:s_nielsen@canada.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 2:04 PM
To: sca-garb@list.uvm.edu
Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic



-Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>

Greetings,

A while ago, I posted about a tunic that I was making for my lord. The tunic
is long (just past the knees), made from red/scarlet wool gabardine, with
the sleeves and hem trimmed with 2 inch wide bands of royal blue wool crepe.
There is also a white cotton undertunic that goes with it, which is machine
embroidered in red and blue, showing at the neck, sleeves and hem.

I had made this ensemble for my lord as an anniversary present, and I was
hoping that it would change his mind as to the fact that T-tunics can't be
fancy, or for court garb. Unfortunately I got my hopes up too high, it
seems.

My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a dress,
it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the average person
can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more embellishment on it
(even then....?).  

So, I am posting to find out what my fellow costumers can suggest that I do
with this. I have seen some trim at the fabric store (leaf/fleur-de-lis
scroll work on black in silver thread), but I am reluctant to put that on
for several reasons. First, it's $6/m. Second, I want this tunic to be as
period as humanly possible (its one of the first pieces I have done that I
would consider competing with). And third, it is very difficult to place
straight trim on a curved seam (like the neck or hem).

I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My
experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made.
(Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what
stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The
intended period is very late 12th century.

Help me out once again, all you marvelous people!

Thanks,

Meghan of Caerleon 


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:08:57 1999
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From: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

>
> I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made. (Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The intended period is very late 12th century.

I assume that you love the guy and he has many other redeeming qualities, right?

So, think stem-stitch.  Somewhere recently I saw a beautiful tunic with a border embroidered with an outline motif done in stem-stitch.  As soon as I remember, I'll post the url.  Does he have a favorite color?  If not, I'd use a deeper red than the tunic or gold.  If you want period, silk thread doesn't cost that much.  The one in my hand was listed at 3$ for 8 yds 12-ply silk.  Does he have a device/favorite motif?  Use it.  Another way to snazz it up is beading.  Just remember to knot well
after each bead.

-magdalena

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:13:48 1999
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-Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>

I may have made things sound more extreme than they are. Dumping my lord and keeping the tunic isn't really an option I am willing to consider. :-)

He sees me sewing Italian ren dresses from brocade and velvet, and says that he doesn't have any "nice/fancy" garb. This tunic was an attempt to remedy that. I will agree that the tunic does look plain. But short of spending a hundred hours embroidering the tunic (which I am willing to consider) what are my options for keeping the tunic appropriate to a 12c Norman?
On Wed, 15 December 1999, "Peters, Rise J." wrote:
> 
> My suggestion would be that you give him a gift certificate to the fabric
> store and tell him to have at it.  Anyone who "flatly rejects" a well-made
> garment had better be willing to learn to sew.

> What I would suggest you =not= do is put more time or money into fancying up
> something he really, really doesn't want.  If he's willing to "flatly
> reject" an anniversary gift, putting embroidery on it's not going to make
> him change his mind.

I think it will. 

Thanks,

Meghan of Caerleon


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:15:24 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Underpinnings books
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/99 12:06:28 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
aleed@dnaco.net writes:

<< Corsets & Crinolines by Nora Waugh is the best comprehensive book on the
 history of corsets, hoopskirts and fashionable support around.  It
 contains patterns for various corsets & hoops,lots of contemporary
 literary quotes and references, and good info of all sorts.  She covers
 1600 to around 1920.
 
 Drea
 
  >>

I agree with the above and...
 I would include as a second reference the Jean Hunnisett books.  The corsets 
are better fitting for 20th century bodies which haven't been constricted 
from an early age.  Cheryl Odom
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:26:57 1999
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

As I think along, another option for embellishment is to add a thin piece of cloth (I'd choose white, gold-yellow, or black) on one edge or both of your blue cloth.  See my primitive ascii below.  It would add definition.

-Magdalena


____________________
____________________


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:38:18 1999
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From: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>
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-Poster: Freya <jns-shadow@home.com>

Kyna Grannd wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
> 
> Warning.... blatant plug for myself to follow  :)
> 
> We are just finalizing out complete online catalog/shopping cart and out
> text
> price list now contains links to photos of most of our listed items. Once
> complete, we
> will also have all our laces and trims shown, books and additional corset
> supplies that have yet to finish arriving.
> 
> We'd be happy to help you and answer any questions. We have various sizes
> and styles of
> grommets in stock. We also are an authorized distributor for one of the
> Norwegian pewter companies, with a full line of clasps offered in eye/hook,
> hook/hook and eye/eye combinations.
> 
> The main site is at http://GranndGarb.com
> 
> The Clasps can be found at:  http://granndgarb.com/page2.shtml
> The Grommets, Eyelets and such can be found at:
> http://granndgarb.com/page5.shtml
> 
> Regards,
> 
> ~Kyna
> Grannd Garb
> Historic Clothing Supplies and Accessories
> info@granndgarb.com
> http://granndgarb.com
> 
> >
> > -Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>
> >
> > I am currently working on my 12th night/yule festival/new year's eve
> dress.
> > It is a great red velveteen Italian Ren with snowflakes beaded all over
> the
> > sleeves.  The problem is that I have decided to use metal eyes to thread
> the
> > lacing at the back.  The question is where to find them.  I know I have
> seen
> > women with this style of closure but I've never seen them in stores or on
> the
> > web.  I am located in Arlington Virginia and but I would prefer to find
> them
> > on the web.
> >
> > Thanks for any help you can give me....
> >
> > Orlaith of Storvik
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


Maybe you can answer a question for me. Last year I finally came up with
a bodice pattern taylored to me. Because I like it alot, I want to make
many more (at least 6 for me and some altered ones for friends. However,
it laces on both sides with a total of 28 grommets per bodice. Do you
know of a source for an affordable bench top grommet setter say in the
range of 200$ or so?

-- 
Freya

Abair ach beag, is abair gu math e.
Say but little, and say it well.
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> A while ago, I posted about a tunic that I was making for my lord. [snip]
>
> I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made. (Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The intended period is very late 12th century.

I love the embroidery on this page!  http://www.regia.org/embroid.htm  show him the pictures and see what he thinks.  I'd get his opinion about the design before spending hours on it.

M/C
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:44:35 1999
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-Poster: Magdalena <magdlena@earthlink.net>

>

Think accessories too.  Does he have a cool belt with stuff to hang from it?  A hood. (or am I thinking too late period?)  A big guy type necklace.  A pouch to match the rest of the outfit.

Also, are we talking 1275 or 1375?

-Magdalena



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 16:45:14 1999
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Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>



> ----------
> From: 	Merouda the True of Beaumaris[SMTP:keltia@serv.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Wednesday, December 15, 1999 2:59 PM
> To: 	Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb; Historical Costume
> Subject: 	H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
> 
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> I love the embroidery on this page!  http://www.regia.org/embroid.htm
> show him the pictures and see what he thinks.  I'd get his opinion about
> the design before spending hours on it.
> 
Absolutely.  The surprise thing doesn't seem to have gone very well.  I'm
also inclined to believe that if he really doesn't want to wear it, he isn't
going to wear it.  Better find out, or figure out a way to turn it into
another garment he will wear.

It sounds gorgeous to me !

MaggiRos



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:06:03 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Having made a number of court Saxon tunics for my lord husband I have
the following to say: first, it is easier to put a thin piece of trim
around a round neckline... particularly if one leaves about 1/4-1/2" of
fabric between the edge & the edge of the trim.  Second, use several
different types of trim around the chest.... eg plain trim, fancy trim,
plain trim if all are fairly wide or even multiple lines of trim if trim
is narrow.  His fanciest has a band of 10" of trim across the chest. 
Third, you might lay a coordinating trim along the band of fabric on the
wrists and hem.  The first tunic I made for my husband was of a brown
velvet with cross-stitch trim.  I used cross-stitch trim fabric (already
bound on the edges) but that was before I knew about waste canvas.  The
trim on the sleeves was red and gold in a narrow, simple design.  The
hem had a 2" wide trim in yellow and blue as I recall (can't find it
right now).  Another trick I use for rounded necklines is to bead them. 
I run a simple pattern of beads (such as \./*\./*\./ with the * & .
representing a bead & the lines representing embroidery thread).  It
really doesn't take that long if you use a short, thin needle and I
often put them in whilst simultaneously hemming the neckline.  Hope he
finds some of these alternatives attractive.  If you'd like, I can try
to get a pic of some of Kent's tunics to you.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:08:01 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991214202429.21995.qmail@nwcst291.netaddress.usa.net> <02c101bf46a4$9114bee0$cb860318@avnl1.nj.home.com> <3858465F.5D4A@home.com>
Subject: H-COST: Grommet Setters was Re: Supplies Help
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 18:27:05 -0500
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Do you
> know of a source for an affordable bench top grommet setter say in the
> range of 200$ or so?
>
> --
> Freya

If you want to email me I can give you some numbers and examples. I thought
I'd take the time to give an opinion about grommet and eyelet setters to the
entire list. If anyone has better experiences with these bench top models,
I'd love to hear the manufacturer's name :)

I have a bench top setter, as well as the simple die set and hammer, the die
set and hammer is actually easier and requires much less strength. (Not to
mention the fact that they are much less expensive) I've tried a bench top
that has a foot lever also. That was nice for large multiples and since my
legs are much stronger than my arms, plus it is easier to get your body
weight behind it, it was less effort than the one you do with your arms, but
very expensive if you aren't going to be using it every day in a business.

I generally use the die set and hammer and the bench setter for multiple
hundreds is attached to a work table collecting dust for the most part.

~Kyna

Grannd Garb
http://granndgarb.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:17:13 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 23:49:19 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

> 
>   >>
> 
> I agree with the above and...
>  I would include as a second reference the Jean Hunnisett books.  The corsets
> are better fitting for 20th century bodies which haven't been constricted
> from an early age.  

Do please bear in mind though that theses patterns have been adapted for
stage wear and are not always strictly accurate for re-enactment wear

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:17:26 1999
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Another useful book is the history of underclothes by cunnington. I
don't think it's in print anymore but you may be able to pick it up
somewhere.

Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:21:56 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 16:41:16 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a
dress, it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the average
person can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more embellishment on
it (even then....?).

Meghan, has he tried this on or did he reject it before putting it on? If he
hasn't tired it on with all of the accessories he'll wear with it, get him
too. Then, drag him outside and take pictures (perhaps somewhere where the
neighbors might see and complement him?). After the fuss, if he still
doesn't like it, make copies of the pic, have him tell you why he doesn't
like it and what might fix it, and sketch on the copies. If you can get him
interested enough, have him do the sketching. It may save a lot of time
trying to decide on a "fix" if all he wants is something appliquéd on the
front. If he still doesn't like it, at least you have some pics of him in
it.

Good luck.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:22:55 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 18:41:42 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tartan (was Pink)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Appin1@aol.com

There are certainly irregular tartan patterns out there. Also, if your 
husband saw a color print of the tartan, rather than some one wearing the 
actual garment, the color could have been "off". There are sett registries 
where you can check the pattern of the tartan just in case. 

Kathleen Norvell
"How many costumes do you think I can pack?"
--"Start the Revolution Without Me"
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 17:35:48 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 18:53:48 -0500
From: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>
Subject: Santa Cloths (was Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes)
To: "INTERNET:h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Margaret Bolger <Margaret_Bolger@compuserve.com>

Kate,

>>I've seen some lovely holiday cards with Santa, Father Christmas, etc. on
them in various garb, the most stunning of which is a heavy fur coat (looks
like bear) over a midnight blue robe embroidered with silver snowflakes. I
think this was a Victorian creation, but was there ever a 'Santa'
historically with such an outfit? And wouldn't a presentation of historical
Santas be stunning? <<

Thought you might to go to this site......loads of images of Victorian
Santa's for you!

http://webclipart.about.com/internet/webclipart/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site
=http://www.taurussoftware.hostings.com/santa

Margaret
antique costume & textiles
http://www.artizania.co.uk
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 18:05:10 1999
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 11:23:16 +1100
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-Poster: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>

Meghan,

I'm wondering if a fancy tablet-woven braid may be an option. It's quicker
than an embroidered band, and they can be made quick(ish)ly, It's fairly
easy to learn if you don't already know it, and some really pretty patterns
can be designed for these.

As late 12th century isn't my period at the moment, I can't remember if the
tablet-woven edging is OK, but I have seen it on 11th century reenactors,
and I'm sure I've seen it on 12th and 13th century reenactors too. There are
surely others on the list who could tell us of it's authenticity for the
period.

Glenda.

<parts of original msg>
-----Original Message-----
From: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>


>
>My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a dress,
it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the average person
can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more embellishment on it
(even then....?).
>
>
>I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My
experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made.
(Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what
stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The
intended period is very late 12th century.
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 18:09:35 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19991214222443.03aeaab0@pop.slip.net>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Tue, 14 Dec 1999, Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
> 
> 
> >In Piecework magazine last month they talk about the effigy and they
> >mention the there are bloomers on it.  Now, I was scratching my head over
> >that and was about to ask the list about it.  They must have been put on at
> >a later time as well?
> 
> "Bloomers" show up in Mary, Queen of Scots's inventories.  I would not be
> surprised to find them in Elizabeth's.  Anybody out there have access to
> any of her inventories?
> 
I just had a thought - maybe 16th century drawers were used for riding?
I haven't had much experience with horseriding myself, but I imagine
it's not something you'd want to do exposed as it were. Then perhaps
later on someone found these and thought 'ooer, can't have Good Queen
Bess without her undies on...'
As I said...just a thought...
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< My lord downright rejected the tunic. >>

What amazingly bad manners.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 19:26:21 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< As late 12th century isn't my period at the moment, I can't remember if the
 tablet-woven edging is OK, but I have seen it on 11th century reenactors,
 and I'm sure I've seen it on 12th and 13th century reenactors too. There are
 surely others on the list who could tell us of it's authenticity for the
 period. >>

Brocaded tabletwoven bands are "period" through the 16th century.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 19:47:19 1999
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/99 9:45:32 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< 
  So... celebrate our diversity but pretend we're all the same?
 
 You don't have to participate or read the tread if you don't like it but I 
 have found everyone's comments interesting....even the flames.
  >> snip
You evidently think you read between imaginary lines.   Please feel free then 
to 
express yourself, but I take great offense at you placing blame where it does 
not
belong "pretend we're all the same".  I have never made a statement such as 
that.
You owe me an apology.

I asked only that the sniping stop, but apparently you continue to thrive on 
it.

You are right about one thing, if I skip the thread, I needn't be exposed to 
your narrowminded judgemental attitude.

Darla
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 19:58:24 1999
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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:15:41 -0500
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

interesting thread this....

it has been suggested by some anthropologists that primitive peoples
actually started the practice of tattooing and other body modifications
partly to differentiate themselves from animals - after all, animals dont
dye/braid/shave their hair, wear jewelry, or mark their bodies. it could be
that as we have moved away from living close to nature making the difference
between animals and humans doesnt need to be as explicit, and the reason the
west has traditionally viewed body modifications as "bad" or "strange" is
because it is associated with these less "advanced" people.

body modifications have also marked rites of passage. perhaps the only
analagous thing in western society might be taking a young girl to get her
ears pierced, but given that some people take babies for piercing and some
people dont believe in it at all id hardly call this an established ritual.

though some folks have latched on to piercing/tattooing/etc as a "fashion"
thing i kind of feel sorry for them because they may be disappointed later
on because they didnt realize how permanent it is. i think the majority of
body mods. in modern western society are done out of personal taste. i also
think young people (i am speaking of 18+  - most reputable tattoo/piercing
parlors wont work on anyone underage) do find an element of rebellion
appealing - which i guess makes them normal because all generations seem to
like to bewilder the one(s) that came before it ;)

some good references on this subject are "re/search: modern primitives" and
ted polhemus' "the customized body", which also covers things like plastic
surgery and extreme hair styles. the former is a historical survey of body
modifications across the world and discussions with modern
artists/practitioners. the latter is a series of photo essays of folks with
modifications and offers insight into the many reasons people get
tattoos/piercing/dreadlocks/etc. now. both have pictures that are not for
the squeamish, so youve been warned.;)

also, if youre curious about the mechanics, different types of piercing,
hygiene, etc check out http://www.access.digex.net/~perforat/. this is the
url of Perforations, a highly regarded shop in washington dc.

allison

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 20:01:14 1999
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From: Morgaine of Glastonbury <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
To: Historic Costume list <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: You have been sent a Medieval-gram!
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-Poster: Morgaine of Glastonbury <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Greetings Historic Costume list!

Apparently, Morgaine of Glastonbury (lady_gawain@yahoo.com) sent you a Medieval-gram.

In order to pick-up your Medieval-gram, point your web browser to the website:

http://www.PillagedVillage.com/cgi-bin/gram_get.cgi?id=6617176195

Your Medieval-gram will be available for 30 days starting from the
date of this E-mail notification - pick up window is at our website.


Best regards

Webmaster
The Pillaged Village
http://www.PillagedVillage.com/


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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: changing attitudes etc.
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:21:23 -0500
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

- -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Also consider: Is a man with shoulder length hair more likely to get that
> Wall Street job than a clean cut guy.....even today? How about that
Graphic
> Artist opening at the ad agency?

But maybe that man with long hair or that woman with a tattoo don't *want*
that
job.  And I, for one, think this is changing.  There are several ads on TV
right
now showing young people with pink or yellow hair giving their parents
*good*
advise on purchasing stock and that type of thing.  An obvious statement
about
our changing times.  Thank God our social mores are changing from the
stuffed
shirt, judgemental views that judge a person's intelligence and worth by the
color of their hair or skin, be it natural or decorative to something more
forgiving, more in tune with our insides.

>>i work as a contractor in washington dc, never a funky fashion capital. i
contract to the federal government, no less and i am definitely noticing a
considerable loosening up in standards for work attire.  i have purple
streaks in my hair and no one has commented negatively about this - indeed,
ive recieved a few compliments. there is even a person on my floor with
their cheek pierced (looks like a marilyn-monroe "beauty spot") and
evidently there are no problems because ive not seen her take it out yet.

>>granted, i do not work in a high visibility position (web
developer/programmer) but i think you can get away with more extreme styles
than say, 5 years ago, in the work place. unless youre going into law or
corporate banking or some equally conservative profession.

>>just my $.02

>>allison
Fwiw and my $.02,
Cynthia

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From: Jim Dew <dewj@eou.edu>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: RE: Embellishment for Long Tunic
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 18:47:02 -0800
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-Poster: Jim Dew <dewj@eou.edu>

Tablet woven trim would be perfect. I have some fairly nice pieces I would 
be willing to part with for a nominal sum, although I don't think I have 
the right colors. Maybe we should talk about some custom trim. I could whip 
something up for him very inexpensively. How about something brocade-like?
My period is 12th century, too, but I am not playing at this time, being 
stuck in the mountains. I would love to do some commission work, just for 
the practice. I would rather trade than be paid. E-mail me and we will 
talk.
Or I would be glad to help you if you want to make it yourself. I have lots 
of experience using tabletwoven pieces as trim, too.
Rowan
Dewm@eou.edu

Someone said:


I'm wondering if a fancy tablet-woven braid may be an option.
As late 12th century isn't my period at the moment, I can't remember if the
tablet-woven edging is OK, but I have seen it on 11th century reenactors,
and I'm sure I've seen it on 12th and 13th century reenactors too. There 
are
surely others on the list who could tell us of it's authenticity for the
period.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 21:09:10 1999
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-Poster: martyr@gti.net

Well, I can't relate to the '70s experience because I was a little kid but it
does seem that long hair on men did become more acceptable in that decade than in
the previous decades-the entire first part of this century featured close-cut
hair for men, especially the 1950s. Even men with short hair styles seemed to
have long sideburns or just that strange seventies' hair style, like Kotters'
modified white 'fro on "Welcome Back Kotter."  I really think geography has alot
to do w/what one can get away w/ in terms of long hair, streaks, piercings, etc.
Anyway most men w/long hair don't walk into a job interview w/their hair down.

~Lisa

> <Also consider: Is a man with shoulder length hair more likely to get that
> Wall Street job than a clean cut guy.....even today? How about that Graphic
> Artist opening at the ad agency?>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 21:26:41 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

My husband and son are growing their hair out right now.  My husband wants
to put his in a braid down his back.  He is a professional <computer geek>,
dress clothes and tie.  Both of them have thick curly hair and are tired of
trying to find a hairstyle to get rid of the poof.  <<<Quit laughing
Charlene>>>  Long hair on men seems acceptable here in Richmond.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 21:26:39 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 22:48:36 -0500
From: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>
Organization: The Curiosity Shop
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-Poster: Bill and/or Glenna Jo Christen <gwjchris@rust.net>

-Poster: Orlaith <orlaith@usa.net>

> I saw a preview of Anna and the King last night.  A real GO SEE....the
thing that stood > out as wrong was she had skirts and blouses on for
most of the movie.

You have a good eye. Yes, not only were the mismatched skirts and
bodices wrong, the cuts were wrong as well. Dropped armscyes are a key
feature of mid 19th c. women's garments and her bodices had modern set-n
sleeves. Her hair was usually dressed quite well if a bit youthful for a
widow with a son his age. I just wish she would have tied her bonnet and
hat on properly just once... At the very least though she was wearing a
corset, the bodices fit her torso correctly and she wasn't wearing
enormous hoops.
All that said, I LOVED the movie! I'm so glad I don't know anything
about Siamese clothing of any time period so I could just revel in the
color and the exotic qualities of all of it. I thought the sets,
scenery, acting, etc. were all wonderful. I wasn't watching it for
history, but for a good story and I got that. I do want to read a more
accurate account of Anna's time in Siam though, just so I know for my
personal information.

Glenna Jo Christen (Lurker)
gwjchris@rust.net
Visit our web site, "The Curiosity Shop"
http://www.rust.net/~gwjchris/


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Subject: Re: H-COST: Underpinnings books
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 11:35 PM 12/15/99 -0800, Dawn wrote:
>
>-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
>
>Another useful book is the history of underclothes by cunnington. I
>don't think it's in print anymore but you may be able to pick it up
>somewhere.
>
>Dawn

In 1992, Dover re-published the Cunningtons' book in a very affordable
edition. Here's the info:

"The History of Underclothes" by C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington.
        ISBN 0-486-27124-2 (paper)

You can obtain a free catalog from Dover by mail (only, no phone ordering,
no email, no web page): Dover Publications, Inc., Dept. 23, 31 East 2nd
Street, Mineola, NY 11501. Specify your area of interest (e.g., costume).

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 21:37:52 1999
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 19:56:36 -0800
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>


Stephen, do you have a brother who is single?  You are most assuredly a
rare find.  

Islyle 

> I say keep the tunic, dump the lord!  I love everything that my wife has
> ever made for me.  And to turn your nose up at a handmade anniversary
> present is just.........too rotten for words.  I may not be 100% crazy
about
> everything she has ever made for me, but I would never tell her that,
> because it's not the items that maters it the love that went into making
it.
> 
> Yours Stephen
> 
> "Oh well, the best layed plans of mice."
> "And men."
> "Men?  What have men got to do with it!"
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: S Nielsen [mailto:s_nielsen@canada.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 2:04 PM
> To: sca-garb@list.uvm.edu
> Cc: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
> 
> 
> 
> -Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> A while ago, I posted about a tunic that I was making for my lord. The
tunic
> is long (just past the knees), made from red/scarlet wool gabardine, with
> the sleeves and hem trimmed with 2 inch wide bands of royal blue wool
crepe.
> There is also a white cotton undertunic that goes with it, which is
machine
> embroidered in red and blue, showing at the neck, sleeves and hem.
> 
> I had made this ensemble for my lord as an anniversary present, and I was
> hoping that it would change his mind as to the fact that T-tunics can't
be
> fancy, or for court garb. Unfortunately I got my hopes up too high, it
> seems.
> 
> My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a
dress,
> it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the average person
> can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more embellishment on it
> (even then....?).  
> 
> So, I am posting to find out what my fellow costumers can suggest that I
do
> with this. I have seen some trim at the fabric store (leaf/fleur-de-lis
> scroll work on black in silver thread), but I am reluctant to put that on
> for several reasons. First, it's $6/m. Second, I want this tunic to be as
> period as humanly possible (its one of the first pieces I have done that
I
> would consider competing with). And third, it is very difficult to place
> straight trim on a curved seam (like the neck or hem).
> 
> I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My
> experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have made.
> (Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no idea what
> stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to use, etc. The
> intended period is very late 12th century.
> 
> Help me out once again, all you marvelous people!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Meghan of Caerleon 
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE personalized e-mail at http://www.canada.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
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>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 21:57:29 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fwd: OT: QEI Poll
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:27:39 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

Bette Davis was not included.  That's a shame.

Kathlene

> 
> >Not a particularly interesting bit of knowledge, but one pertinant to
> >our little cause.  The Internet Movie Database is currently taking a
> >poll on who has played the best Queen Elizabeth.  Cate Blanchett is in
> >the lead with Judi Dench in a relatively close second.  For all of you
> >interested in placing your votes the URL is:
> >
> >http:\\www.imdb.com
> 
> LynnD

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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 4:18:51 AM !!!First Boot!!!, 
khopkins@cyberhighway.net writes:

<< Bette Davis was not included.  That's a shame.
 
 Kathlene
  >>

She was when I went there and looked...along with Glenda Jackson and I forget 
the other
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 22:31:43 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 23:50:01 EST
Subject: H-COST: RE: Underpinnings books
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

A recent post asked

>>- -Poster: scootnik@ix.netcom.com

Hi All, I'm new here and new to Costuming as well. Could some one please 
suggest a book (or two...) that gives the proper undergarments to wear for 
period costumes. I'd like a book specifically on Corsetry as well. The time 
span needs to be fairly wide for both subjects, I'd like a good overview 
rather that a book on just one era. Thanks for your help, please excuse if 
this subject has been covered here before, Lynne>>

An excellent reference for what are usually called corsets from mid-19th 
Century through 1934 is a book by someone on this list

Corsets:  A Visual History
Compiled by R. L. Shep
ISBN 0-914046-20-9
my early copy was $26.95; I am not sure of the present price.

If you are interested in a certain period or style later on, come back on the 
list.  There are other books better for particular periods.  Happy hunting.

Joan McTeer in Minneapolis delurking for her favorite topic
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 23:04:09 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:15:03 -0800
From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



Megan McConnell wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
> 
> >And wouldn't a presentation of  historical Santas be stunning?
> 
> Kate
> 
> Stop it at once!  There is only 1.5 weeks til christmas - and evil minds
> (OK:  costuming minds - same thing really <g>) work overtime.
> 

<snip>

Don't you mean 53.5 weeks?  Lots of time.

Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 15 23:43:14 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Dressing for the Occasion
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 22:03:36 -0800
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

The 60's did away with so many things that were great - now the next
generation (which I'm in) seems to be working to pick up the pieces and
learn about the "lost" traditions, and clothing is such a great place to
start!

But now that I've admitted my ignorance about things pre- 60's-
wear-jeans-everywhere styles, I have to ask - just what are the essential
differences between a cocktail dress and a dinner dress?  And, of course,
how did these details change in the last 200 years in Western European
society? (perhaps showing a bit too much ignorance here with such an open
question, but willing to take the chance!).  In fact, is there a date when
dresses for distinctive social occasions became the norm?

Zelda

-----Original Message-----
>-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/15/1999 3:39:19 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>kayta@slip.net writes:
>
><< Are there, in fact, *always*
> such fashion individualists?  >>
>
>I'd say not in social circles....where *fashion* originates [Working people
>do not create fashion.....unless of course someone in the social set
decides
>a "work look" is fashionable.] Remember there are often strict rules as to
>what one may wear to where ever...the opera, a ball, court. Could we tell
the
>difference between an opera gown & a ball gown? Someone in every period
could.
>My mother laments to this day about: "Everything was great 'til the 60s and
>that 'do your own thing' mentality." What she means is before the 60's you
>wore a cocktail dress for a cocktail party and a dinner dress to a dinner
>party. You didn't just wear jeans everywhere.
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 00:18:03 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 22:36:59 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dressing for the Occasion
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
>
>The 60's did away with so many things that were great - now the next
>generation (which I'm in) seems to be working to pick up the pieces and
>learn about the "lost" traditions, and clothing is such a great place to
>start!

Well, but in the '60's (late '60's) i wore lots of vintage clothing - 
mostly 20's and 30's (as i don't much care for the '40's styles), 
some turm of the century, including hats, shoes, handbags, and 
outerwear.  So every generation does some picking up of the pieces of 
seemingly lost traditions.

>But now that I've admitted my ignorance about things pre- 60's-
>wear-jeans-everywhere styles, I have to ask - just what are the essential
>differences between a cocktail dress and a dinner dress?  And, of course,
>how did these details change in the last 200 years in Western European
>society? (perhaps showing a bit too much ignorance here with such an open
>question, but willing to take the chance!).  In fact, is there a date when
>dresses for distinctive social occasions became the norm?

Having been born at the century mid-point, i did experience cocktail 
dresses and the tail end of dinner dresses.

I *think* that a cocktail dress was shorter than a dinner dress and 
less foofy, often sleeveless, and often black, while a dinner dress 
was stylistically fussier, longer sleeved, might include chiffon, 
rhinestones, be more colorful... I'm speaking of the 1950's here. I 
can't say what the distinction was prior to this.

In the 1930's i seem to recall that similar issues hold true - 
sleeker cut, sleeveless, single or limited colors for the 
cocktailwear, and foofier styles for the longer sleeved dinner 
dresses - of course in the 30's both cocktail and dinner dresses were 
often ankle or floor length.

And after the 1960's, it wasn't "jeans everywhere" like it is now. In 
the early '70's a woman in Chicago still had to wear a dress or skirt 
to have lunch in a *nice* restaurant.  And by the late 70's you still 
had to dress up, even if you were wearing pants.

My mom was shocked when my folks moved to California in the early 
'70's and she saw women in tennis outfits in nice restaurants in 
Beverly Hills. But, then, there's a significant difference in 
clothing styles and standards in different parts of the US, much many 
of us don't always realize this. (this may have come to light a bit 
in the tattoo thread...)

There was a restaurant in Santa Barbara at which not only did the 
women have to look "nice", but men had to wear ties - they kept a 
stash by the door so that any man lacking in the proper neckwear 
could be supplied without having to be turned away - and this 
throughout the 1970's.

Lilinah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 01:17:46 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 17:27:13 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: clothing mistakes
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I've tried to resist, but I'm going to have to jump in on this. If you don't
want to hear any more on the subject, please feel free to delete this right
now. (I've deliberately left no attribution on the quote.)

> What if those in our society who choose to wear what you consider
> unusual fashions were to stare and turn up their nose at YOU when
> you considered yourself dressed normally and decently?

They would be perfectly within their rights. You have the right to wear what
you wish. We reserve the right to make fun of you for it. ;-) (Same thing goes
for tattoos and piercings.)

> They would be rude of course, and so would you if you did the same
> to them.

No, they would be human. People have various reactions to each other.
Laughing, staring or turning up one's nose are normal reactions, not being
rude. For all I know, people turn their nose up at me on a daily basis. That's
their right, and I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

> Would you stare and turn up your nose at a person with a disability?
> Of course not.

Don't be so sure. I've got an acquaintance that was driving his motorcycle
down a dirt road filled with ruts at 3 am after a long night of heavy
drinking. As might be expected, he lost control of the bike and as a result
he's short a spleen. A year later he shattered his hip riding up the side of a
ravine and dropping 40' down the other side. He walks with a limp due to his
own stupidity and I think he's worthy of my sarcastic humor. ;-)

> The fact that someone is different should not open them up to
> ridicule and rebuke, unless they are doing something that is
> harmful to YOU. That is my point.

Let's face it, you are welcome to wear whatever you like or change your body
in any way that you please (within the law of course). But, none of these
things make you immune to other people forming an opinion about it. Putting a
chip on your shoulder is asking to have it knocked off. Most of the time, I
won't bother taking the bait.

> And by the way, I am not offended for myself, but offended that
> rational and mature people could be so petty and juvenile.

Rational and mature people don't call others petty and juvenile. If others are
offended, you're better off letting them defend themselves.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."

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Subject: H-COST: Long tunic
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-Poster: griffinhold@usa.net


> My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a
>dress, it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the >average
person can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more >embellishment on
it (even then....?).  
> So, I am posting to find out what my fellow costumers can suggest that I
>do with this. 

Oooh... rotten, rotten to the core.  My lord is like Stephen and loves
everything I make for him (or is too polite to say otherwise, but still wears
it!)  The tunic sounds lovely though and shouldn't need embellishment.  But if
he insists...  another suggestion besides the tablet woven braid would be to
use wool on wool applique outlined with couched gilded leather.  (Folks, help
me here - I'm thinking of the Tristan and Isolde hanging at the V&A.  I'm
brain dead though and blanking on the dates)  It looks spiff and is simple and
easy to do without lots of embroidery experience.

Lyn Gillespie

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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Was ugly clothes, now Anne of Cleves
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 20:53:01 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>



>
> -Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
>
> There are several dresses from that part of Germany in M. Davenport's
> costume book.  My copy is so old it doesn't have an ISBN number - sorry.
>
> >   Has anyone made a copy of the dress Anne of Cleves wore for the
betrothal
> >portrait?

Thanks!  I have that book on my list to check out at the library. I'll put
an asterisk by it now.

Michelle

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 00:43:27 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Meghan of Caerleon wrote:
>A while ago, I posted about a tunic that I was making for my lord. 
>The tunic is long (just past the knees), made from red/scarlet wool 
>gabardine, with the sleeves and hem trimmed with 2 inch wide bands 
>of royal blue wool crepe. There is also a white cotton undertunic 
>that goes with it, which is machine embroidered in red and blue, 
>showing at the neck, sleeves and hem.
>
>I had made this ensemble for my lord as an anniversary present, and 
>I was hoping that it would change his mind as to the fact that 
>T-tunics can't be fancy, or for court garb. Unfortunately I got my 
>hopes up too high, it seems.
>
>My lord downright rejected the tunic. Its too plain, it looks like a 
>dress, it doesn't matter if it is made from $20 a yard wool ("the 
>average person can't tell"), and he won't wear it unless I put more 
>embellishment on it (even then....?).

YOUR outfit for him sounds beautiful and i think he should certainly 
have been more appreciative.

>I will attempt embriodery if I can figure out what I should do. My 
>experience with embriodery is limited to a few small favors I have 
>made. (Iron-on transfer, covered up with back stitch). I have no 
>idea what stitches are appropriate, (a few for motifs) or colors to 
>use, etc. The intended period is very late 12th century.

My consort is Norman, early 12th century. He likes to make his own 
stuff (we are just friends). He made a deep orange twill wool tunic, 
around knee length, and sewed yellow-orange heather wool on the cuffs 
and neck (it matches his red hair exactly!). He cut the neck trim 
cloth like a facing but sewed it to the outside of the tunic.

We were researching period decoration and all we could find was trim 
at neck, cuff, and hem with either circles, or lozenges, or 
alternating squares and lozenges. It's a relatively plain period.

Then he embroidered a pattern of alternating circles and lozenges on 
the neck and cuff trim - he isn't much of a perfectionist, so i don't 
imagine it's very exact, but, hey! he did all this himself! He 
outlined each shape with stem stitch and filled it with couched laid 
work (he was "inspired" by the Bayeux embroidery i did and gave him 
as a "favor") completely filling the circles and lozenges.

You could make a neck facing with the royal blue wool if you have 
enough left over. You could cut in one piece, or two pieces (front 
and back, or left and right) or even three pieces (back, front left, 
and front right). You could couch the outline of simple shapes in 
gold metallic cord or rich yellow wool, then fill with red and white, 
on the blue. Just suggestions - naturally you will have your own 
solutions or ideas.

Check out the stitches in the Bayeux "Tapestry" - stem stitch, and 
couched laid word which work up pretty quickly - i made a small piece 
of Bayeux style embroidery. The URL Merouda the True of Beaumaris 
sent:
http://www.regia.org/embroid.htm
shows how to do couched laid work in the black and white sketches at 
the bottom of the page.

If your lord doesn't appreciate all you work, i don't know what to 
say. Perhaps he needs a new persona in a period with fancier men's 
clothes "-)

Lilinah
SCA'ly known as
Anahita Gauri al-shazhiya bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:52:01 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Waaah!  The posting copied below is the first I've seen of that 
subject.  Am I missing some posts?  If so, could someone please 
send me the message this is following up on as it sounds 
interesting!

> From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:46:41 -0800
> Subject: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
> 
> - -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> Oh, and the alb is dated 1320-1340.
> 
> Merouda/Cynthia
> 
> - --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir
> 


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:57:04 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> And its correlation: The bobbin thread always runs out six inches
> before the end of a 10 yard hem! 

I Hate it when that happens, so hve invested in several packs of 
bobbins.  I have at least two full of each colour I use a lot at all 
times and one of the less fequently used colours (hey, *everyone 
has favourites they use more often than others...<g>)  If I'm 
heading into a *big* job I'll wind a few extra bobbins before I start.  
It's still a pain but there's always another full bobbin to pop in when 
the one I'm using runs out.

Like all good plans, there's a flaw.  I have to *remember* to refil the 
empties.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:13:53 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

If I might make a suggestion, Meghan....

> I may have made things sound more extreme than they are. Dumping my
> lord and keeping the tunic isn't really an option I am willing to
> consider. :-)
>
>
> >  If he's  willing to "flatly reject" an anniversary gift,
> > putting embroidery on it's not going to make him change his
> >  mind. 
> 
> I think it will. 

Have you considered *asking* this man of yours what he *want's for 
court garb and making him that?

Then, you won't be wasting your time making things he won't wear.

If he doesn't know what he wants, tell him to stop grumbling, make 
do with what he has and let you know when he's made up his mind.

Just a suggestion....





Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: History of Paisley?
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 06:29:49 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Are the origins of paisley from the middle east?  When did it become
fashionable in western fashion?


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Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< Are the origins of paisley from the middle east?  When did it become
 fashionable in western fashion? >>

The origins are Indian, I believe, and it became fashionable during Victorian 
times.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 07:43:31 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'aleed@dnaco.net'" <aleed@dnaco.net>,
        "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Corset fitting questions
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 07:02:56 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

I finally finished my first corset.  I used the corset generator on the
"Elizabethan Costuming Page", and modified it so it was boned like the
corset in Janet Arnold's book for the Pfalzgrafin (sp?).  I should preface
my questions by saying that I intend to make another corset-this was a trial
run.  My questions are:

When you take your breast measurement, should you be wearing a bra?  I think
I made a mistake by wearing mine, consequently I can't tighten it enough
(the edges meet).

Should you tighten it at the waist so that the tabs stick out?  (My metal
stays go down into the tabs unlike the pattern in JAs) They seem to be
riding on my hips, and I think I will get chafed.  They are sticking
straight down.  It may be difficult to tighten because of the following:

This one may be difficult to visualize.  I couldn't fit a grommet in right
at the waist, the junction of the main body of the corset to the tab because
of the boning going down the center back.  The center back is not parallel
to the tab, it is at ~45 degree angle.  (I tried to draw the right side
below).  Consequently there isn't enough room between the boning going down
the center back and the first stay to put a grommet.  There is enough room
to put a hand stitched hole.  Do you all make it parallel, leave the tab
off, or leave the boning out?, or put in hand stitched holes?  

 		              /
		 	 /
		           /  _   _
	                       I_I  I_I
                                  	
Finally, I did take your suggestions and ordered precut stays.  I used the
1/2 for the majority of the stays, only using 1/4 at the center back.  Do
you like the 1/4 better?  I could see where they might make a more refined
looking corset, would it be more comfortable?

Thanks for your input ahead!

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 07:47:23 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Corset fitting questions
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 07:06:38 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

Well, I see that my drawing didn't make it.  Hope the verbal description is
enough.

-----Original Message-----
From: Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001) 
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 7:03 AM
To: 'aleed@dnaco.net'; 'h-costume@indra.com'
Subject: H-COST: Corset fitting questions



-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

I finally finished my first corset.  I used the corset generator on the
"Elizabethan Costuming Page", and modified it so it was boned like the
corset in Janet Arnold's book for the Pfalzgrafin (sp?).  I should preface
my questions by saying that I intend to make another corset-this was a trial
run.  My questions are:

When you take your breast measurement, should you be wearing a bra?  I think
I made a mistake by wearing mine, consequently I can't tighten it enough
(the edges meet).

Should you tighten it at the waist so that the tabs stick out?  (My metal
stays go down into the tabs unlike the pattern in JAs) They seem to be
riding on my hips, and I think I will get chafed.  They are sticking
straight down.  It may be difficult to tighten because of the following:

This one may be difficult to visualize.  I couldn't fit a grommet in right
at the waist, the junction of the main body of the corset to the tab because
of the boning going down the center back.  The center back is not parallel
to the tab, it is at ~45 degree angle.  (I tried to draw the right side
below).  Consequently there isn't enough room between the boning going down
the center back and the first stay to put a grommet.  There is enough room
to put a hand stitched hole.  Do you all make it parallel, leave the tab
off, or leave the boning out?, or put in hand stitched holes?  

 		              /
		 	 /
		           /  _   _
	                       I_I  I_I
                                  	
Finally, I did take your suggestions and ordered precut stays.  I used the
1/2 for the majority of the stays, only using 1/4 at the center back.  Do
you like the 1/4 better?  I could see where they might make a more refined
looking corset, would it be more comfortable?

Thanks for your input ahead!

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 07:50:29 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:09:12 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: tattoos etc. (ok to skip)
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



It's not realistic to expect everyone to like or even respect a particular 
type of clothing or decoration style. It's avoiding reality to pretend that 
everything is regarded as equal. It's downright rude (IMO) to tattoo or 
pierce yourself in a spot that people can't avoid looking at and then dare 
them not to even THINK anything about you. Same goes for clothes. If you want 
to defy convention, then you have to expect that some people, maybe even a 
majority of people, will think less of you. If that bothers you, if you think 
of that as an insult rather than a challenge, then you picked the wrong way 
to defy convention.  At least today you won't get burned at the stake or 
otherwise punished for unnatural behavior, or considered insane, as so many 
people were in the past.

I don't know any of the tattooed or pierced people on this list. I can't 
judge their characters or actions. But I can tell you that IN GENERAL, I 
think both tattoos and piercings are stupid. I don't have any religious 
reasons, I am not politically conservative. I just think that they are either 
frivolous fashion statements, which are as fun and harmless as big-legged 
pants or shiny fabric shirts, or else they are defiant statements that invite 
reaction -- and that's the reaction I have. If people are so angry at 
"society" that they want to make a statement, they should try leading a 
remarkable life (doing something to make things better for people) rather 
than looking remarkable.
I know that some people dress and decorate themselves as a way to express 
their actions or lifestyles, but it seems to me that more people just want to 
look weird and be angry, without doing anything. Looking at them, I have no 
way to tell which is which. And if they want to do it, fine. But that's what 
I'm going to think about it.

And to bring this back to historic costuming . . . I think that people have 
always felt this way about bizarre fashions. Certainly there is enough 
published invective against particular styles, from hennins to pointy toed 
shoes. Once a style is far enough in the past (as seems to have happened with 
hippie clothes), it becomes quaint and fun. Maybe we should remember, when 
we're recreating aesthetic dress or giant codpieces or whatever, that these 
were not considered harmless eccentricities at the time, but shocking attacks 
on society. Maybe, in our recreation groups or events, we should try treating 
them that way -- especially if we have an audience. It would certainly add a 
new dimension to reenactments!

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 08:00:48 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:19:45 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: embellishments for long tunic
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com


Suggestions? How about marriage counseling? What a rude, disrespectful, 
unappreciative, downright nasty way to treat you! I'd put the ensemble in the 
closet (or sell it for a hefty sum) and spend my time finding a good 
therapist (or a good lawyer). Sewing can't fix everything.

Sorry, Meghan, but you have the same name as my daughter, and I can only 
imagine what I'd say to my daughter if someone treated her that way -- 
especially someone who is supposed to love her!

Gail Finke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 08:15:31 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:33:54 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: tattoos etc. (ok to skip)
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 6:11:13 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<< 
 It's not realistic to expect everyone to like or even respect a particular 
 type of clothing or decoration style. It's avoiding reality to pretend that 
 everything is regarded as equal.  >>


The "pretense" comment was made by a list member, as an assumption about me.
I never stated anything about pretending.  My comment was we should 
appreciate the diverse aspects of one another, and NOT judge others.    

Think about it,  if you will, my friends.   It matters not if you agree, or 
if we are all of the same belief.  What matters is NOT JUDGING our fellow 
man.  Freedom of expression is our right.  

Darla
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To: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
cc: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Corset fitting questions
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


> I finally finished my first corset.  I used the corset generator on the
> "Elizabethan Costuming Page", and modified it so it was boned like the
> corset in Janet Arnold's book for the Pfalzgrafin (sp?).  I should preface
> my questions by saying that I intend to make another corset-this was a trial
> run.  My questions are:
> 
> When you take your breast measurement, should you be wearing a bra?  I think
> I made a mistake by wearing mine, consequently I can't tighten it enough
> (the edges meet).

Even with a bra, the edges shouldn't meet...though if you have a large
bosom and a relatively small waist measurement, this will sometimes occur.
My first corset didn't fit quite right, either.
> 
> Should you tighten it at the waist so that the tabs stick out?  (My metal
> stays go down into the tabs unlike the pattern in JAs) They seem to be
> riding on my hips, and I think I will get chafed.  They are sticking
> straight down.  It may be difficult to tighten because of the following:
> 
I'm having trouble visualizing this...if you have boning going down into
the tabs, don't the tabs flare out over the hips when you tighten the
corset at the waist?  You should tighten the corset enough so that it
feels secure, but not so much that you feel uncomfortable or have trouble
breathing deeply; Elizabethan corsets aren't designed to "sculpt" the body
the way Victorian corsets were.

> below).  Consequently there isn't enough room between the boning going down
> the center back and the first stay to put a grommet.  There is enough room
> to put a hand stitched hole.  Do you all make it parallel, leave the tab
> off, or leave the boning out?, or put in hand stitched holes?  

I would recommend hand-stitched holes.
>                                   	
> Finally, I did take your suggestions and ordered precut stays.  I used the
> 1/2 for the majority of the stays, only using 1/4 at the center back.  Do
> you like the 1/4 better?  I could see where they might make a more refined
> looking corset, would it be more comfortable?

Both are about the same comfort level for me...if you want a truly
comfortable corset, a corset boned with bundles of broomstraw is far and
away the most comfortable type I've worn.  

Good luck,

Drea

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:08:09 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 6:48:51 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
SNSpies@aol.com writes:

<< The origins are Indian, I believe, and it became fashionable during 
Victorian 
 times.
 
 Nancy >>
 Forgive my poor menopausal mind, but I seem to remember something about the 
paisley motifs representing the eye of peacock feathers, something to do with 
Hindu mythology.  Cheryl Odom
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:14:50 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fwd: OT: QEI Poll
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

YES, I'd vote for Glenda Jackson!!

Kim


At 11:26 PM 12/15/1999 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/16/99 4:18:51 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
>khopkins@cyberhighway.net writes:
>
><< Bette Davis was not included.  That's a shame.
>
>  Kathlene
>   >>
>
>She was when I went there and looked...along with Glenda Jackson and I forget
>the other
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 13c buttons
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-Poster: Karalee Larsen Pugmire <Francesca.da.Bari@usa.net>

>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> I am about to start on my next project.....a blue velvet cotehardie.  I
>>want to use silver buttons up the sleeves, and I need to know what kind
>>of buttonhole was used.  Were they like our modern "shirtfront" style, or
>>were they the loop kind, or perhaps something else?  This gown is going
>>to be very special, so I want it to be right.
>
>The button holes were regular buttonholes sewn using the button hole
>stitch.  At this time, they didn't have the rounded edge at each end.
>Just a row of buttonhold stitch on each side of the cut.  And FWIW, your
>gown is 14th century.  :)  I love blue velvet, sounds gorgeous.  Is it
>cotton or acetate?  That determines whether or not you
>cut the holes before or after you stitch them simply because the acetate
>ravels easily.


What kind of button would you use? Were the front pierced button
appropriate or were they using post buttons?

Francesca da Bari
Cote du Ciel (Logan, Utah)
Francesca.da.Bari


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References: <A8BBD321A5@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:34:52 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> I Hate it when that happens, so hve invested in several packs of
> bobbins.  I have at least two full of each colour I use a lot at all
> times and one of the less fequently used colours (hey, *everyone
> has favourites they use more often than others...<g>)  If I'm
> heading into a *big* job I'll wind a few extra bobbins before I start.
> It's still a pain but there's always another full bobbin to pop in when
> the one I'm using runs out.


I love this! When the bobbin runs out for me, I usually just take it as a
sign that I need a small break.

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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Corset fitting questions
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>



<Both are about the same comfort level for me...if you want a truly
<comfortable corset, a corset boned with bundles of broomstraw is far and
<away the most comfortable type I've worn.  

<Good luck,

<Drea
EEEEEK!  I don't think I'll take on that much authenticity yet!! <g>
Thank you for your suggestions!  Makes me feel better that not even the
expert got it right the very first time!  

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:47:44 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: changing attitudes 
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>>>granted, i do not work in a high visibility position (web
>developer/programmer) but i think you can get away with more extreme styles
>than say, 5 years ago, in the work place......

I think the computer industry has accelerated the loosening of corporate
expectations of appearance.  If you desperately need a hot-shot
super-nerd programmer/webmaster/etc. and the person who can do the 
job wears a pony-tail or has a pierced nose or purple hair, as an
employer, you get over it really quick if the person can walk out the
door and be hired by your competitor that afternoon. The computer
industry's early formation as a "garage" industry of younger
people with little concern for corporate image (image and its accompanying 
restrictions almost killed IBM, remember?) has been a driving force.

I offer for proof Bill Gates.  Everyone jokes about him cutting his own 
hair and dressing like a high-school a-v club member---but he is the
wealthiest human on our planet. 

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Subject: H-COST: UK Costume Convention
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hello all,

Anyone interested in attending the CostumeCon UK 2000 (Please 
note this is *not* anything to do with  "Costume Con," just similar 
in name) they now have a web page up at

www.yorkmpd.demon.co.uk

I'm nothing to do with the convention other than planning to attend 
it.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Subject: H-COST: Italian Ren again
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-Poster: ches@io.com

What is the best book out there for making Italian Ren costumes?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #870
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Gail Finke wrote:

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

>>>  If you want 
to defy convention, then you have to expect that some people, maybe even a 
majority of people, will think less of you. If that bothers you, if you think 
of that as an insult rather than a challenge, then you picked the wrong way 
to defy convention. 

Well said! I have absolutely no compunction about staring at those of our students who have green hair or whatever, if I feel like it, as I reckon they're doing it to invite attention. (I'm more likely to avert my eyes from pierced faces, though - the bare idea of sticking bits of metal through sensitive parts of one's anatomy makes my flesh creep!)

My own pet fashion peeve is "designer stubble". There may be a certain macho appeal about a man being unshaven for a good reason, but stubble worn with smart clothes just looks scruffy IMHO. I suppose it's just a question of the search for something new.

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:29:29 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: tattoos & culture
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  it has been suggested by some anthropologists that primitive peoples
>  actually started the practice of tattooing and other body modifications
>  partly to differentiate themselves from animals - after all, animals dont
>  dye/braid/shave their hair, wear jewelry, or mark their bodies. it could
be
>  that as we have moved away from living close to nature making the
difference
>  between animals and humans doesnt need to be as explicit, and the reason
the
>  west has traditionally viewed body modifications as "bad" or "strange" is
>  because it is associated with these less "advanced" people.

There is also evidence that tattooing has been used for medical/magical
reasons. On the skin of the fellow that was found in the Austrian Alps a few
years ago, as well as others, are marks that correspond to places that had
injuries and illness. The patterns are very different from what might be
considered clan or tribal, or even decorative.

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> What kind of button would you use? Were the front pierced button
> appropriate or were they using post buttons?

A small knob button with a shank (post) or a cloth button with a shank sewn
on.  Check out the Museum of London Textiles & Clothing or Dress Accessories.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 10:50:34 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Bad bunny!  See below.  Cynthia

> Waaah!  The posting copied below is the first I've seen of that
> subject.
>
> > Oh, and the alb is dated 1320-1340.

Opus Anglicanum: English Medieval Embroidery
The Victoria & Albert Musuem
26 September to 24 November 1963
The Arts Council 1963
Printed in England at The Curwen Press, Plaistow, Long E.13
Exhibit selected by Donald King, deputy keeper of Textiles at the V&S
(at the time)
No ISBN

Plate 14 shows appliqued Opus Anglicanum onto velvet.  But the velvet
is *exactly* like waleles corduroy.  And it is on an Alb, clerical of
course, but still a garment.


--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:27:39 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

There are a number of explanations of what this design actually is..... It
is refered to as a *kalga* or *mango*... also it is said to come from the
Urdu word *galb* meaning *hook*.
A very interesting explanation of this term which is found in *The Sari* by
Linda Lynton is as follows:
*The kalga motif is now so ubiquitous in Indian sari and other textile
designs that it is hard to imagine it is only about 250 years old. It
evolved from 17th Century floral and tree-of-life designs that were created
in expensive, tapestry-woven Mughal textiles, primarily patkas - sashes -
made for the Mughal court.  The early designs depicted simple plants with
large flowers and thin wavy stems, small leaves and roots.  In the course of
time the design became denser, with more flowers and leaves, giving rise to
tree-of-life and mixed floral patterns issuing from vases or a pair of
leaves.  By the late 18th Century the archetypal curved point at the top of
an ellipitical outline had evolved.  The kalgas created on Kashmir shawls,
which became the fashion in Europe for over a century, were certainly the
most imaginative and intricate; and it was from the imitations of these
shawls woven in factories at Paisley, Scotland, that the name 'paisley' was
derived, still commonly used in Euopre and the United States.*
She goes on to talk about the asociation with both mango and hook in
different languages of India.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Cheryldee@aol.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
>Date: Thu, Dec 16, 1999, 7:08 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/16/99 6:48:51 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
>SNSpies@aol.com writes:
>
><< The origins are Indian, I believe, and it became fashionable during 
>Victorian 
> times.
> 
> Nancy >>
> Forgive my poor menopausal mind, but I seem to remember something about
the 
>paisley motifs representing the eye of peacock feathers, something to do
with 
>Hindu mythology.  Cheryl Odom
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  Stephen, do you have a brother who is single?  You are most assuredly a
>  rare find.  

No, no! Much too risky! Brothers can be as different as night and day. I say
we wrestle Stephen to the ground and clone him!

Kate - she who would not mind a gentleman to decorate . . . ;)
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 11:50:58 -0800
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

Sorry Ladies, but I am one of kind.  As to a blood sample, sorry but I am
busy right now hand making my wife's Yule presents.  The necklace and
earrings are done, the candles have to be wrapped, and I have to put the
finishing touches to the chatelaine.  Maybe after the new year.

Yours Stephen

"Oh well, the best laid plans of mice."
"And men."
"Men?  What have men got to do with it!"



-----Original Message-----
From: StitchWitch [mailto:stitchwitch@excite.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 11:30 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic



-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  Stephen, do you have a brother who is single?  You are most assuredly a
>  rare find.  

No, no! Much too risky! Brothers can be as different as night and day. I say
we wrestle Stephen to the ground and clone him!

Kate - she who would not mind a gentleman to decorate . . . ;)
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
 The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 13:49:25 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 19:34:51 +0100
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Italian Ren. fan
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-Poster: Ninni Pettersson <vidumavi@swipnet.se>

At 04.52 +0100 99-12-14, don and carolyn richardson wrote:
>For cheaper books, try finding the Riverside series on
>various artists - I can recommend the one on Carpaccio.

	Seconded. Lots of nice pictures, *and* close ups, in this one. My
current banquet dress is inspired by the red dress worn by the bride in the
painting "Meeting of the Betrothed Couple and the Departure of the
Pilgrims". (Though mine is blue and the sleeves is not so elaborate. I like
it so much, and it fits me so well, that currently I have very little
incentive to make another "best dress" :-)

	Another cheap book with lots of nice colour photos is Phaidon
Press' _Renaissance Painting_. Other Phaidon books, like _Everyday-life
Painting_ and _Portrait Painting_, also have rather a lot of Italian
Renaissance paintings in them.

/Ninni Pettersson



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 13:53:28 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:10:40 EST
Subject: H-COST: Bad dye problem - Please help
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Dear List,

I just heard from a friend that a burgundy/fuschia gay nineties costume 
(stored in the dark) has begun to spot fade/bleach.  I believe the fabric was 
mostly polyester.  

Is there any way to re-dye this gown to salvage it? I'm told it has orange 
fade spots.

This was a costume I made some three years ago, but anything you can do to 
help me help her would be appreciated.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
"What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both 
wind and tide."
King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 14:30:41 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 14:46:10 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
In-Reply-To: <QQhtsz13266.199912152024@wodc7mr3.ffx.ops.us.uu.net>
References: <NDBBJDHCCMCECNKOPKNDAEHKCJAA.wandapease@bigfoot.com>
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-Poster: Doris J Nash <djnash@iastate.edu>

At 03:26 PM 12/15/99 -0500, you wrote:

>-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
>
>
> > Murphy's Laws of Sewing (Anonymous)
>
> > Whenever the construction process is going well the bobbin thread runs out.
>
>And its correlation: The bobbin thread always runs out six inches before 
>the end of a 10
>yard hem!

And another--The bobbin runs out at the _beginning_ of that 10-yard hem, 
but you don't realize it until you've finished "stitching" it!

Doris

Doris Nash   Ames, IA
Feed hungry children around the world--free!  Visit 
http://thehungersite.com to find out how.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 14:36:59 1999
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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:  tattoos etc. 
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 14:58:31 -0600
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>

This is a potpourri of several posts.............

> -Poster: KATHLEEN.MAHER@asu.edu
> We sat back and watched her completely absorbed
> > in herself and her hair and ignore most of her customers.
> What makes that different from the bad service that I got last night
> from a very well, but very conventionally dressed, waitress, who was more
> interested in gossiping with the other servers, checking her mainstream,
but
> fashionable make-up, and trying not to mar her salon-done nails.  And I
went
> to high school with plenty of girls who looked like her who didn't do
squat in
> the classroom.
> And people like the one that I mentioned above, do you think that she
> wants to do research and wear *historical* clothing.  No, she will make a
> outfit that makes her look 20th-century pretty, not be caught dead in
proper
> head gear, and expect you to tell her how lovely she looks.

I don't disagree with you on either of these points except that this person
you are describing would probably NEVER be caught dead in costume/garb
anyway (I know plenty of girls like her), where the pierced/blue haired
practically costumes him/herself every day and would probably be more
likely to "Goth" up and go somewhere.

> My point (and I do have one) is that all groups of people contain
> people who are lazy and self-absorbed and that I have met (percentage
wise)
> more "normal" people who are like that as I have people who look strange.

Agree, I'm just tired of society telling me I have to accept people
(conventional or otherwise). I will accept people that are good and
honorable no matter what they look like by nature of by self definition. If
I give someone the impression that I don't approve - it has nothing to do
with what I see rather than what I perceive. What next,  is society going
to try to force me to accept "soccer moms"!

> -Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com
 > It's not realistic to expect everyone to like or even respect a
particular 
> type of clothing or decoration style. 

Absolutely, and I do believe we are talking in generalizations with this
post.

> It's downright rude (IMO) to tattoo or 
> pierce yourself in a spot that people can't avoid looking at and then
dare 
> them not to even THINK anything about you.

We had a VERY interesting experience at the last Ren. Faire that we went
to. We were taking a break, sitting having a cup of coffee, and across form
us was a table full of young pierced, gothicish folks (18+). One of the
males had everything we could see multiple pierced, numerous ones on the
bridge of his nose, spiked hair and a TERRIBLE attitude. Even when someone
would innocently glance at him, he would mouth off. I noticed what was
going on so decided to "observe". I watched as people would look at him
(even just a glance -as people do in crowds) and every time he would
immediately pop-off about them staring at him, take a picture it'll last
longer, type of cockiness. He was NON-STOP attitude. We began to see him as
humorous (but wouldn't dare laugh at him - well, with him knowing anyway).
The wisdom of the child, "My 13 year old said, "If he didn't want people to
look at him then he shouldn't pierce himself all over like that to attract
the attention."

> Same goes for clothes. If you want 
> to defy convention, then you have to expect that some people, maybe even
a 
> majority of people, will think less of you. If that bothers you, if you
think 
> of that as an insult rather than a challenge, then you picked the wrong
way 
> to defy convention.  

Beautifully put. 

> I don't know any of the tattooed or pierced people on this list. 

I have no tattoos, never wanted one, but my husband has 3. He is going on
his third ponytail (I'm making a reliquary for his second one - a good foot
of a braid) and working on a ZZTop beard. He is also a very large man and
has his own set of issues as to people's stereotypes of big folks, had to
deal with a woman at work that was scared of him because of his size - even
though he's very charming and polite.....it was just his size. When he
asked his boss exactly what it was that he did, his boss said, "well, you
are big". He is a Technical Writer (for 14 years) Manager and has a college
degree in Anthropology. He is very intelligent, very well read, doesn't
drink alcohol or smoke, a vegetarian and very active......but a victim of
stereotyping.

> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> My husband and son are growing their hair out right now.  My husband
wants
> to put his in a braid down his back.  He is a professional <computer
geek>,
> dress clothes and tie.  Both of them have thick curly hair and are tired
of
> trying to find a hairstyle to get rid of the poof.  <<<Quit laughing
> Charlene>>>  Long hair on men seems acceptable here in Richmond.

My 13 and 8 year old sons wear their hair long. It's required. They
participate in the High School drama department - all plays except UIL
competition - the Middle School is the grooming station for the High School
drama department, so they let them audition for all the plays, the
elementary kids get to be townspeople - and the teacher/director requires
them (males and females) to grow their hair long. They do so many classics
and also have a wonderful summer program called Shakespeare Under the Stars
(http://www.emilyann.org/sutstars.html). The directors want them to all
have long hair instead of wigs. My 18 year old, that just graduated, cut
his hair right after his last Shakespeare. My 20 year old son wears his
hair short and looks very conservative..............which he definitely is
NOT! He's a trip :-)

You can't tell a book by it's cover, but you can definitely read an
out-and-out attitude!

Amanda
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 14:39:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:57:29 EST
Subject: H-COST: looking for...
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

Sorry for the waste of everyone's time, but would RL Shep and Penny Lanier 
mind contacting me off list with their email addresses...I would like to get 
an opinion from them.

Thanks,

Charles Burke
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 14:54:22 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 13:15:01 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Does anyone besides me think that this thread is *WAY* off topic?
What does this have to do with Historical Costuming?  Current
attitudes, yes, historical?  Hmmmmm.  I reserve your right to talk
about this, but does it have to be here?

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>
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Subject: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: S Nielsen <s_nielsen@canada.com>

Greetings,

I feel that it is necessary to do some damage control here. Apparently, my original post was worded far more strongly than my situation warranted. I was attempting to provide some background for my request. Next time I will either not post or post my questions without any background, as it appears I have aired dirty laundry that doesn't exist.

I am truly grateful for those who emailed with suggestions for tablet woven trim, embroidery or couching. For those who responded with relationship advice, I wasn't soliciting for that.

For the record:
- my lord does not have bad manners. I would prefer to know the truth about how he feels towards something I have made him than have him hide it from me to spare my feelings, and this is the agreement we have always had in our relationship.
- my lord was not rude, rotten  or any of a number of other adjectives that have been applied to him. 
- we do not need marriage counselling, a lawyer or a messy break-up over my lord's tastes in garb.

I realize that I shouldn't have worded the original post the way I did, but it's too late now. My original post should have said, "I have a long tunic of such and such description. How can I make it fancier?" 

Its taken a long time for me to crawl out of lurker-dom, and this is enough to make me think six times before posting something. I will now return you to your regularly scheduled costuming list. Thanks for listening. :-)

Meghan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:02:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:20:29 EST
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/15/1999 9:07:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
DDunker@aol.com writes:

<< You owe me an apology. >>

No I don't

<<You are right about one thing, if I skip the thread, I needn't be exposed 
to 
your narrowminded judgemental attitude.>>

Who's being judgmental now? I ask a question about a very obscure and obtuse 
statement that seems to make little sense to me and then calmly make a 
reasonable suggestion that you skip the thread rather than censor it.

Perhaps you owe us all an apology for asking us to stop a very interesting 
topic simply because YOU don't like it.

And I never called you names.

Lighten up!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:07:45 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Actually, the shawls originated in Kashmir, and the pine cone mutated to the 
paisley design.  They were fashionable starting in the early 19th century. 
Ladies also used them for dresses.  Machine-made imitations of the expensive 
hand-made shawls were made in Paisley, Scotland, among other places; hence, 
the name.  There are several good histories on the origins of the shawl.  I 
have momentarily lost my references, but can post them later.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:14:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:33:31 EST
Subject: H-COST: Cloned Stephen?  Was re:  embellishment for a long tunic
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-Poster: Morghana@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 2:51:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, Bergdahl, 
Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us writes:

<< Sorry Ladies, but I am one of kind.  As to a blood sample, sorry but I am
 busy right now hand making my wife's Yule presents.  The necklace and
 earrings are done, the candles have to be wrapped, and I have to put the
 finishing touches to the chatelaine.  Maybe after the new year.
 
 Yours Stephen >>

Booo!!  Hiss!!   You're also a genial sadist, Stephen....evidently delighting 
in torturing the rest of costuming womankind who are not as lucky as your 
lady is.    :::wry grin:::  I hope she truly appreciates you.....  :)

~Morghana (who truly appreciates her S.O. for what he does, but it isn't 
ANYTHING like Stephen......)
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I Hate it when that happens, so hve invested in several packs of 
>bobbins.  I have at least two full of each colour I use a lot at all 
>times and one of the less fequently used colours (hey, *everyone 
>has favourites they use more often than others...<g>)  If I'm 
>heading into a *big* job I'll wind a few extra bobbins before I start.  
>It's still a pain but there's always another full bobbin to pop in when 
>the one I'm using runs out.
>
>Like all good plans, there's a flaw.  I have to *remember* to refil the 
>empties.


This is one of the reasons I love my Singer 20U commercial machine.  The
bobbin winder is designed so that you can put a second cone or spool of
thread on the machine, thread up the bobbin, and it will wind while you
stitch.  By the time bobbin #1 is empty, #2 is full. 

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:18:44 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:37:56 -0800
From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@mackie.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Here's a question for the list:

If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?

For me, the answer would be an exceedingly well-done Middle Eastern (can't give you a specific period - I don't know enought about it).  There's just something about the look that is visually appealing to me.

The other option would be high court Chinese - we have a costumer in my area who does T'ang Dynasty stuff that is to die for and I just drool whenever she goes all out.

Looking forward to seeing other responses,

Colleen


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:20:53 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:39:44 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: tattoos & attitudes OT
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-Poster: AlbertCat@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/1999 4:15:38 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
keltia@serv.net writes:

<< 
 Does anyone besides me think that this thread is *WAY* off topic?
 What does this have to do with Historical Costuming?  >>

Interestingly, it does have something to do with it. I, like a lot of you, 
spend my quality costume time with clothes and manners where tattooing would 
not be the norm. I never thought about it. But the discussion has brought to 
mind two specific instances of tattoos and historic situations.
In the film "The Bounty" Mel Gibson comes to dinner not wearing his high 
necked tunic because of the new tattoos on his neck he's gotten from the 
natives. The Capt. rebukes him and orders him to wear the tunic at the table. 
There. Tattooing as a costuming character statement. A clever use of it 
historically that enhances the show. That's what I like to see costumes do.
The other incident is a design for "Three Penny Opera" I saw where the 
designer gave Polly a butterfly tattoo on her bicep. Another...if more 
fantastical, statement enhancing character and plot thru costume.

I'm sure there are others....and others yet to be devised by clever 
designers.....who may have read this thread!

I wish people wouldn't get so emotional about it. You'd think we were 
discussing abortion or creationism! That's what is unpleasant about the 
thread. I certainly am not the ogre I'm supposed to be. I've never said I, 
myself, find tattoos trashy. Personally, it seems to me that a tattoo is like 
a drawing: every one is different. I find spider webs up the calf a little 
too much but I had a friend with a Yin/Yang about the size of a 1/2 dollar on 
his shoulder I thought nice.
All I've done is ask questions for discussion....mainly to stop irrational 
flaming posts from the over emotional who didn't read things too closely.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:24:04 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:43:53 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I've always wanted to do a wide wide 18th century pannier gown, but I have
no place (and the wrong figure) to wear it, so oh la, well there it is.
Think of all the money I've saved.

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Colleen McDonald Hinrichs[SMTP:Colleen@mackie.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Thursday, December 16, 1999 3:37 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Dream costume?
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
> 
> Here's a question for the list:
> 
> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
> completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe
> a better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely
> admire on others, but will probably never get around to making for
> yourself?
> 
> For me, the answer would be an exceedingly well-done Middle Eastern (can't
> give you a specific period - I don't know enought about it).  There's just
> something about the look that is visually appealing to me.
> 
> The other option would be high court Chinese - we have a costumer in my
> area who does T'ang Dynasty stuff that is to die for and I just drool
> whenever she goes all out.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing other responses,
> 
> Colleen
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From: "Ches" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s8590765.089@Mackie.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 05:43:01 -0600
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-Poster: "Ches" <ches@io.com>

For me it would be not only the costume but the body too, from the movie
GiGi, that white gown she wears when Gaston picks her up for their first
night out as a couple.

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@mackie.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 5:37 PM
Subject: H-COST: Dream costume?


>
> -Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
>
> Here's a question for the list:
>
> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:25:14 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:44:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: WAY OT - altering t-shirt
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

This is way out of the realm of these lists, but I
don't know where to go.  I have a new t-shirt that I
LOVE, but it has a high, man's-type neck, which i
don't like.  Is there some way to change the neck?  Uh
oh, i don't have a serger!  Thanks.

Kristen Morgaine Sieber
SCA Morgaine of Glastonbury


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:26:05 1999
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 3:23:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
AlbertCat@aol.com writes:

<< 
 Who's being judgmental now? I ask a question about a very obscure and obtuse 
 statement that seems to make little sense to me and then calmly make a 
 reasonable suggestion that you skip the thread rather than censor it.
 
 Perhaps you owe us all an apology for asking us to stop a very interesting 
 topic simply because YOU don't like it.
 
 And I never called you names.
 
 Lighten up!
  ____________________ >>
I see, I shall consider the source and refer future comments to more mature 
readers.

Darla

PS Your attitude is nasty
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:27:47 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

<Here's a question for the list:

<If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your <current interests, what would it be?



You don't ask the easy questions do you Colleen.  Well seeing there is
little in Historical costuming that I have not either tried or would try.
For me it would be making Armor.  I'm talking the real thing full suit of
steel armor.  Probably one of the fancier suits for the late Elizabethan.
With the fluting, and painted decoration, and of course silk padding with
lots of feathers.

Yours Stephen

"Oh well, the best laid plans of mice."
"And men."
"Men?  What have men got to do with it!"


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:30:49 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 03:37 PM 12/16/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
>
>Here's a question for the list:
>
>If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a
better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire
on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?
>
Oooh, good question!

For me, it would be the ultimate unaffordable Elizabethan court gown: Custom
woven fabrics, metallic "tissue" and silver camlet.  real gold bullion and
jewel embroidery, hand made needle lace for the ruff, and proper jewelry.
Kid shoes with tiny pinking.  Buttons and aiglets with pierced hollows and
perfume inside.  Hand knitted silk stockings with silver clocks.

I might deign to use cultured pearls and synthetic rubies.

Margo Anderson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:33:03 1999
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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>


Greetings!


>-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
>
>Here's a question for the list:
>
>If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a
better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire
on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?


One thing comes to mind:

Ceremonial Byzantine--the type of thing an Empress would wear.

Susan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:38:40 1999
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

Could someone explain what tablet woven edging is? Thanks.

Pamela D. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 17:44:35 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 16:00:54 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  For me, it would be the ultimate unaffordable Elizabethan court gown:
Custom
>  woven fabrics, metallic "tissue" and silver camlet.  real gold bullion
and
>  jewel embroidery, hand made needle lace for the ruff, and proper jewelry.
>  Kid shoes with tiny pinking.  Buttons and aiglets with pierced hollows
and
>  perfume inside.  Hand knitted silk stockings with silver clocks.
>  
>  I might deign to use cultured pearls and synthetic rubies.

You just summed up my fantasy costume! But I'd use real rubies. No limits on
the dream, right? ;)

Now, if I had time, talent, cash/credit/extortion funds . . .

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: modern fashions
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 16:34:51 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>Does anyone besides me think that this thread is *WAY* off topic?
What does this have to do with Historical Costuming?  Current
attitudes, yes, historical?  Hmmmmm.  I reserve your right to talk
about this, but does it have to be here?

I believe the list charter is Stone Age to the Jazz Age.  Here it is
"re-creating period costume, from the Bronze
age to the mid-20th Century".  Yes, 1999 clothing, fashion & accessories are
OT.  So were ships, and international trade riots, but those petered out
quickly.  Those of us on the digest cant autodelete boring topics or rude
people, Sigh.
--cin
Cynthia the neither Virtuous nor True
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 18:38:21 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Bad dye problem - Please help
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 1:12:03 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
MzScahlett@aol.com writes:

<< I just heard from a friend that a burgundy/fuschia gay nineties costume 
 (stored in the dark) has begun to spot fade/bleach.  I believe the fabric 
was 
 mostly polyester.  
  >>
A permanent marker pen in the appropriate color is about the only thing I can 
think of that will "stick" to polyester in a color that dark.  I do it all 
the time with costumes but it might show more on something meant to be seen 
up close.  Try on a seam allowance first.  Cheryl Odom
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
In-Reply-To: <s8590765.089@Mackie.com>
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Thu, 16 Dec 1999, Colleen McDonald Hinrichs wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
> 
> Here's a question for the list:
> 
> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?
> 
Pick any upper class costume from any era with a high degree of 
authenticity. Two things spring to mind....18th century with an accurate
100% silk brocade, and an Edwardian afternoon dress with lots of real silk
and decent lace.
With luck maybe one day I will get a chance at that sort of thing, but
the costume I am sort of interested in but will probably never make
would be a Minoan one. I think it would be an interesting technical
challenge, but my husband would never let me leave the house - and
probably keep all photos to himself too *grin*
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 18:46:21 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 16:26:13 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
To: h-costume@indra.com, SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
Message-id: <3859129D.E54D96A9@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings Meghan,

> I feel that it is necessary to do some damage control here. <snip>
> as it appears I have aired dirty laundry that doesn't exist.

<more snipped>

> Its taken a long time for me to crawl out of lurker-dom, and this
> is enough to make me think six times before posting something.

Please don't feel hesitant to post. I'm afraid that what happened was a common
(and regrettable) problem with electronic communication. Without the
non-verbal signals that people need to rely on for interpreting emotions,
people made the mistake of substituting their own emotional reaction to the
situation. It was undoubtedly a subconscious reaction.

While I can't guarantee that similar things won't happen again, I do promise
that some will have learned from this thread. :-) And I'm sure we can still
help you. Towards that end...

If you'd like to embellish the tunic with trim, this is a great site:

Calontir Trim  --  http://www.calontirtrim.com/

I've managed to get trim as wide as 2-1/4" around a keyhole neckline. While
it's not simple, it is possible. If you'd like some helpful hints, let me know.

Good luck,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 18:47:28 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s8590765.089@Mackie.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 20:19:09 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>



>
> -Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
>
> Here's a question for the list:
>
> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a
better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire
on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?

I think it would have to be that red velvet dress that Rhett makes Scarlet
wear to Ashley's birthday party.  I don't care if it's acurate.  I know I'm
too fat to look good in that style and I look awful in red, but I love that
dress.

Another dream costume would be a mid-18th century court gown.

Andrea

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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: "H-Costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 20:25:16 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF4803.AA64D5A0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under modern clothes?  I'm =
not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting better =
figure-control than a girdle under an evening gown.  I'm assuming it =
would be a Victorian corset, but don't these affect the shape of the =
bust also?  Do these give support to the bust?
Andrea

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF4803.AA64D5A0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under =
modern=20
clothes?&nbsp; I'm not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting =
better=20
figure-control than a girdle under an evening gown.&nbsp; I'm assuming =
it would=20
be a Victorian corset, but don't these affect the shape of the bust =
also?&nbsp;=20
Do these give support to the bust?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF4803.AA64D5A0--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 19:08:28 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 00:08:04 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: RE: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>> > If one of our lucky Londoners could go find the article, I'm sure a 
>> > number of us would be appreciative. (If I had the information on 
>> > which journal it was in, with the date and page number, I could 
>> > probably request a copy for study, as could Drea.)
>> 
>> Yes, yes!! I would be eternally grateful for any info on that article! In
>> fact, we might be able to work out some sort of exchange...replica
>pinking
>> tools, or carnelian beads,  or silk cloth of gold...
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Drea (no, I'm not desparate) Leed

Hi Drea!  Add me to the oh so desparate list!

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 19:28:45 1999
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:47:55 +1100
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-Poster: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>

Pamela,

There's quite a bit on tablet weaving on the net, which explain better than
a short email

Try this URL - http://www.google.com/search?q=tablet+weaving
which is a search engine result which gives a lot of tablet weaving urls
worth a look.

The most thorough book on tablet weaving is "The Techniques of Tablet
Weaving" by Peter Collingwood. It's not cheap, but can probably be found
through ILL.

Glenda.

-----Original Message-----
From: Panmela@aol.com <Panmela@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, 17 December 1999 11:04
Subject: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic


>
>-Poster: Panmela@aol.com
>
>Could someone explain what tablet woven edging is? Thanks.
>
>Pamela D.
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 20:51:05 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/1999 8:15:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
ahgideon@earthlink.net writes:

<< Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under modern clothes?  I'm 
not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting better figure-control 
than a girdle under an evening gown.  I'm assuming it would be a Victorian 
corset, but don't these affect the shape of the bust also?  Do these give 
support to the bust? >>

I've thrown a sweatshirt and other things over my  (1870ish) corset when I've 
been running around the house fitting a dress. I've found it is simply 
wonderful for a bad back, and yes, it does support the bust. Better then 
modern undergarments! I love the silhouettes it gives, but I've never worn it 
out. It is noticeable. I wish it wasn't...or else, I wish I could be that 
shape without it, LOL.

-Alison Stacy
AliaClaire@aol.com
Acstacy@cc.owu.edu
Ohio Wesleyan University
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 20:12:06 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:36:45 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I have seen rotten remarks on this list but this is getting way out of hand.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: DDunker@aol.com
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
>Date: Thu, Dec 16, 1999, 3:45 PM
>

>
>-Poster: DDunker@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/16/99 3:23:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
>AlbertCat@aol.com writes:
>
><< 
> Who's being judgmental now? I ask a question about a very obscure and
obtuse 
> statement that seems to make little sense to me and then calmly make a 
> reasonable suggestion that you skip the thread rather than censor it.
> 
> Perhaps you owe us all an apology for asking us to stop a very interesting

> topic simply because YOU don't like it.
> 
> And I never called you names.
> 
> Lighten up!
>  ____________________ >>
>I see, I shall consider the source and refer future comments to more mature

>readers.
>
>Darla
>
>PS Your attitude is nasty
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 20:14:52 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 21:34:09 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: Morses3@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/1999 8:06:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
dietmar@pacbell.net writes:

<< While I can't guarantee that similar things won't happen again, I do 
promise
 that some will have learned from this thread. :-) And I'm sure we can still
 help you. Towards that end... >>

Along this line, I'm taking a bread from my usual lurker mode to follow up 
this statement. I've been following this thread from the very beginning since 
I am working on garb from the same period and I have found this whole 
discussion to be very helpful.  I've gotten lots of ideas that I wouldn't 
have thought of on my own, as well as sources for trim that I didn't know 
existed.  

>From a fellow lurker who doesn't post much, remember how much you have still 
learned from the posts of others......

Perry
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 20:17:53 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: Morses3@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/1999 9:35:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Morses3@aol.com writes:

<< 'm taking a bread from my usual lurker mode >>

I meant break, really I did (next time I'll use the spell checker) :-)

Perry
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 20:20:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 21:26:02 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 03:43  16/12/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
>
>I've always wanted to do a wide wide 18th century pannier gown, but I have
>no place (and the wrong figure) to wear it, so oh la, well there it is.
>Think of all the money I've saved.
>
>MaggiRos

Greetings,

I agree with you on this one.  I would love to do something with massive
panniers.  I seem to remember a picture of a particular sack-back gown.
sigh.  If only I had some reason to do it.

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 20:30:16 1999
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

Yes, it is out of hand.  I told the previous poster he owed me an apology and 
he refused.  He was rude to me, and accused me of "pretending".   Personal 
slams are against my nature, I still feel he owes me an apology.

I should NOT have to apologize for defending my beliefs.

Darla
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 21:19:46 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 19:37:04 -0800
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

AnnBWass@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com
> 
> Actually, the shawls originated in Kashmir, and the pine cone mutated to the
> paisley design.  They were fashionable starting in the early 19th century.
> Ladies also used them for dresses.  Machine-made imitations of the expensive
> hand-made shawls were made in Paisley, Scotland, among other places; hence,
> the name.  There are several good histories on the origins of the shawl.  I
> have momentarily lost my references, but can post them later.
> Ann Wass

The shawls and the "botteh" (paisley motif) really originated in
Persia. (shawl is a Persian word) They were men's garments, worn
around the waist or over the shoulder. Much of the Moghul culture
was actually Persian in origin as was the language of the court.
There's at least one theory that the paisley motif was originally
a stylized date tree flower and dates back to the Sumerians! 
(can't find that reference right now.)
  But it was the Indian shawls that were brought back to Europe
by British and French soldiers and traders in the late 18th c.
There was much cross fertization for the next century or so!
  One way to tell the difference, is that the Indian shawls
were often pieced around the edges. As the art decayed, they
started embroidering the designs rather than weaving them.

   A couple of references are John Irwin's The Kashmir Shawl,
Ed Rossbach's The art of Paisley, and Monique Levi-Strauss's
The Cashmere Shawl (trans. from the French and mostly about
the French "paisleys")
  Frank Ames book is supposed to be the best, but it's expensive.

Meg Andrew's article is at:
http://www.victoriana.com/library/paisley/shawl.html

They're lovely things,no matter where they come from.

Susan Fatemi

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 21:20:00 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 22:38:33 EST
Subject: H-COST: My apologies to my fellow list members
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

I sincerely apologize for taking the time and attention of my fellow list 
members.

I was insulted by a list member, but should have communicated privately with 
that person.   Cliche as it may be.. I must say, two wrongs still don't make 
a right.


Darla
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:23:01 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
In-Reply-To: <A8BBD321A5@mdx-bg-staff2.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 09:57 AM 12/16/1999 +0000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
>
>
>> And its correlation: The bobbin thread always runs out six inches
>> before the end of a 10 yard hem! 
>
>I Hate it when that happens, so hve invested in several packs of 
>bobbins.  Teddy
                      For me, it's that the bobbin runs out 6" before the
spool will, and there's still a few inches worth of stitching left to go...
and that WAS on the spare bobbin...I swear my machine eats bobbin thread... cjc
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 21:36:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 19:15:31 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fwd: Re: Re: Period waleless corduroy!!
Cc: Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

         I asked my friend, the weaver, for her explanation, in 'lay'
terms... Carol / Gra/inne, herewith ...

>From: "Sarida Bradley" To: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
>Subject: Re: Re: Period waleless corduroy!! Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 
>
>Hi Carol,
>
>>     Sarida--      May I invite you, as someone I believe will be able to
>> speak knowledgeably and in lay terms, to respond, please?   Thanks!   And
>> Brightest blessings to you and yours for the upcoming Solstice...may your
>> skies be clear that you may see the Moon at apogee [14% nearer and looking
>> larger 'than life' for the only time in 133 yrs.]...Gra/inne / Carol
>> >On Wed, 15 December 1999, Merouda the True of Beaumaris wrote:
>
>Thanks, we are looking forward to clear skies and a bright moon.
>
>At first pass on the question I've come up with the following:
>
>Corduroy, one of my references translates this as "Cord or thread of the
>King".  Corded fabrics were woven from earliest times on all types of
>looms.  Corded fabrics can be weft or warp cords and are usually achieved
>with varying thickness of yarn, but weave structure can produce corded
>effects as well.  I tend to think that early Corduroy as a piled fabric was
>a time intensive and therefore expensive fabric because of the cutting and
>brushing of the pile after it was woven.  So it was refered to as the
>"corded cloth of kings".
>
>> >> Plate 14 shows appliqued Opus Anglicanum onto velvet.  But the velvet
>> >> is *exactly* like waleles corduroy.  And it is on an Alb, clerical of
>> >> course, but still a garment.
>
>> >In my mind, the definition of corduroy is piled fabric a la velvet or
>> velveteen that had been shaved into cords or wales. If you take away the
>> wales, how can you still have corduroy.
>
>Corduroy is not just shaved velvet, it is also supported by a corded weave
>structure.  The wales of corduroy usually always parallel the warps.  The
>wefts are tightly woven into a number of warps the then floated over a
>number
>of warps.  The pile is cut across the floating wefts and then brushed up.
>Between the weft throws that float over the warps are wefts that are inter-
>woven between every warp, thus locking the wefts that will be cut into the
>fabric structure.  The sequence is something like; floating weft, locking
>weft,
>floating weft, locking weft, floating weft, locking
>weft.....................
>
>Warps are finer are more closely set than the floating wefts.  The locking
>wefts are also finer and disappear between the floating wefts when the
>pile is cut and brushed.  The floating wefts would need to be of a softer
>fiber that could be brushed and fluffed out.
>
>I cannot understand how there could be a wale-less or uncorded Corduroy.
>The very word describes the nature of the fabric and piled fabrics without
>cords are something else, entirely.
>
>> >Also, while we are on the topic, what is the difference between velvet
>and
>> velveteen? This came up a while ago, but the question was never answered.
>> To my eye they seem the same, except velveteen has a shorter pile. Is this
>> the only difference?
>
>Velvet and Velveteen are similar but there are a number of differences.
>Velvet
>is a warp-pile fabric made from a double woven structure.  This means there
>are literally two sets of warps and wefts that interlock at points all
>through the
>cloth.  One warp is for the pile, the other is for the ground cloth that
>holds it all
>together.  The pile warps are wound on a separate warp beam (usually 5 to 10
>times longer than the ground warp).  The cloth is woven with ground wefts
>beaten
>in for a few shots then a steel bar is inserted on edge forcing the pile
>warps up out
>of the ground cloth, ground wefts are beaten in to secure the lifted warps
>and then
>the pile warps are cut while the steel bar is in place.  Velvet was
>traditionally silk
>pile on a cotton ground cloth.
>
>Velveteen is a weft-pile fabric, single weave structure, though cut and
>brushed
>in the same way as velvet.  It gives a cloth that is very like velvet, but
>not as labor
>and material intensive.  Traditionally velveteen is made of cotton pile and
>cotton
>ground cloth.  Velveteen does usually have a shorter pile than velvet
>because of
>the weft face pile and single weave structure.
>
>I hope this is helpful,
>
>
>Sarida Steed-Bradley
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 21:48:21 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: To dream the impossible dream costume...
In-Reply-To: <30741493.945388854070.JavaMail.imail@patti.excite.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Ditto on the Elizabethan.  
I can make the actual clothing, it's just the materials and the jewelery
and the ten lifetimes for the embellishment I don't have...

I'd commision some voided, 3 pile,
multi-colored velvet in a rich brocade pattern, with real gold in the
weave...real cloth of gold, real gold embroidery, some of those beautiful
gold and enamelled billiments, a cream satin petticoat entirely
embroidered in colored silks, big sleeves entirely blackworked, foot-wide
handmade lace ruff, hand-worked silk stockings,one of those wonderfully
over-the-top sculpted and enamelled brooches, and, of course, Peckover and
Galyard transported 500 years into the future to make them properly.

Aside from that, I'd love a dark red bustle gown with lots of ruching and
trim.

Drea

> 
> >  For me, it would be the ultimate unaffordable Elizabethan court gown:
> Custom
> >  woven fabrics, metallic "tissue" and silver camlet.  real gold bullion
> and
> >  jewel embroidery, hand made needle lace for the ruff, and proper jewelry.
> >  Kid shoes with tiny pinking.  Buttons and aiglets with pierced hollows
> and
> >  perfume inside.  Hand knitted silk stockings with silver clocks.
> >  
> >  I might deign to use cultured pearls and synthetic rubies.
> 

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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>You just summed up my fantasy costume! But I'd use real rubies. No limits on
>the dream, right? ;)
>
Synthetic rubies are real, they are just grown in labs rather than under
natural conditions.  How they do this, I have no idea.  They are
indistiguishable from natural stones, unless examined under a microscope.
My mom has one, about five carats, and it is gorgeous, even considering the
$40 my dad paid for it.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 21:52:55 1999
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To: H-Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


If your corset is an over-the-bust type, the difference will definitely be
noticeable under all but the most loosely fitted garments...under-the-bust
ones worn with a bra are less noticeable.

I found a 1950s' steel-boned girdle at a garage sale once, and that did an
admirable job of shaping the waist. Your carriage does become noticeably
stiffer and more upright when you're wearing one. You might contact JC
Penneys and see if they still make them...probably not, but you never
know.

Drea


 On Thu, 16 Dec 1999, Andrea
Gideon wrote:

> Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under modern clothes?
>I'm not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting better
>figure-control than a girdle under an evening gown.  I'm assuming it
>would be a Victorian corset, but don't these affect the shape of the bust
>also?  Do these give support to the bust?
> Andrea
> 

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Subject: Re: H-COST: To dream the impossible dream costume...
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

I have found some gorgeous mink colored corduroy.  Someone PLEASE tell me 
they would also make an Italian Ren!!!    I can't resist this fabric, though 
I shall have to invoke the "10 foot rule" 'coz I know corduroy is NOT period. 
 

Darla

Who doesn't care as much as others, or maybe as much as she SHOULD, if her 
garb is period.  It's JUST SO PRETTY.
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Subject: Re: H-COST: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Many thanks, Susan.  You covered the best references on the subject, and 
saved me the trouble of looking them up.
Ann Wass
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 20:53:47 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Colleen McDonald Hinrichs wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>
> 
> Here's a question for the list:
> 
> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?


18th Century Court dress - not the Pannier type, but the gonzo Marie
Antoinette, miles of silver tissue, 400 pounds of fabric jobbers. 
Panniers I have, even if I don't have the costume to go with them yet.

Carolyn
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 8:10:38 AM Central Standard Time, 
Gaelscot@aol.com writes:

<< giant codpieces  >>

This is not anything I know alot about.  I pretty much know what I have heard 
on here or seen in movies.  This is not my area.  I was reading a historical 
novel awhile back.  In it the main character asked the main women if she 
liked the bells that he put on his codpiece and the way the jungled when he 
walked.  Did they really put bells on them?
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 22:44:03 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Hmmmmm... dream costume... there are so many... must start with lots and
lots of silk fabric... and maybe some more silk fabric... and some silk
thread... not sure what period but making an outfit entirely out of silk
from the underpinnings out.  That and the blue & white outfit on the
cover of _In Conquest Born_ by C.S. Friedman (my husband wants the black
one).  And a few that I have saved as .gifs & .bmps on the computer. 
And some more thigh high flat heeled boots in 8.5 womens since the 9's
are too big for me now (my husband was soooo sympathetic... considering
that they fit *him*!).

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 22:48:37 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>And some more thigh high flat heeled boots in 8.5 womens since the 9's
>are too big for me now (my husband was soooo sympathetic... considering
>that they fit *him*!).

I've heard of feet growing, usually with childbearing, but how did you get
them to shrink?

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 22:50:29 1999
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From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

M311@aol.com wrote:
>  
> << giant codpieces  >>
> 
> This is not anything I know alot about.  I pretty much know what I
> have heard on here or seen in movies.  This is not my area.  I was
> reading a historical novel awhile back.  In it the main character
> asked the main women if she liked the bells that he put on his
> codpiece and the way the jungled when he walked.  Did they really put
> bells on them?

That depends... on the region, the period, the occasion for which the
codpiece was made.  The style has been for 'larger' codpieces, 'smaller'
codpieces, flamboyant codpieces, ludicrous codpieces, subdued codpieces,
if you can think of it I'll lay odds that someone, somewhere, somewhen
has probably done it (provided it is based on period materials,
construction & knowledge! <wink>).

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 22:54:27 1999
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

The ball dress that Deborah Kerr worn in the King and I.  But then I would
have to know how to Polka and also have Yul Brynner to dance with.  That
was one of my earliest romantic fantasies.

Kathlene


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 22:56:52 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 00:16:05 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 5:53:33 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
AliaClaire@aol.com writes:

<< < Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under modern clothes?  I'm 
 not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting better figure-control 
 than a girdle under an evening gown.  I'm assuming it would be a Victorian 
 corset, but don't these affect the shape of the bust also?  Do these give 
 support to the bust? >>
  >>
Hi There,

I wore a full Victorian corset under my wedding gown.  I looked fab.  It made 
my waist look very defined & my breasts were saying hurrah!  A friend fitted 
me for it & helped me w/the construction.  We used white vintage brocade for 
the outer shell & canvass for the liner, also lots of steel boning.  Worked 
Great.  I highly recommend.

As for the breast thing.  I already had a nice c-cup.  The corset did 
definitely lift & made a great cleavage for my shawl collar.  If your are 
really flat, my dragqueen friends recommend ducktape.  Ouch.

Cheers!
Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 22:57:13 1999
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 5:51:35 PM Central Standard Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< Elizabethan court gown >>

Growing up my family owned a set of encyclopedias that I used to look through 
alot.  One of my favorites was a picture of Queen Elizabeth I.  I just loved 
to look at her outfit.  I thought it was interesting.  Since my favorite area 
is 1800's and above that would be my choice.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 23:06:04 1999
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

There are sooo many to choose from but there are 2 I would love to have;

1. Period or not I have lusted after the Green Velvet Curtain Dress from GWTW 
since I was 9.  The only thing I would add is a pair of gloves to match.  I 
adore gloves.

2.  I know this doesn't even fit the category but here goes.  I would kill 
for the evening gown Audrey Hepburn wears in Sabrina. The strapless number 
w/yards of skirt.  The catch is I'd have to have Audreys build for it to 
work.  Yummy dress.  

There are hundreds of others but I'd be very please w/those two.

Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 23:07:38 1999
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/99 9:15:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
khopkins@cyberhighway.net writes:

<< 
 The ball dress that Deborah Kerr worn in the King and I.  But then I would
 have to know how to Polka and also have Yul Brynner to dance with.  That
 was one of my earliest romantic fantasies.
 
 Kathlene
  >>
Girl,

I can teach you to Polka anytime.  However I refuse to shave my head!

Cheers!
Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 23:10:24 1999
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Card Weaving was: Re: H-COST: Embellishment for long tunic
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 21:27:44 -0800
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>



----------
> From: Glenda Robinson to > Pamela,
> 
<snip>
> 
> The most thorough book on tablet weaving is "The Techniques of Tablet
> Weaving" by Peter Collingwood. It's not cheap, but can probably be found
> through ILL.
> 
> Glenda.
While this is the most comprehensive, it is difficult for a beginner to
fathom all his comments.  
  A good book for a beginner, which is currently available is: Cardweaving
by Candace Crockett.  It is available with and without cards, online and in
many bookstores.  

Islyle





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 16 23:36:59 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 00:55:01 EST
Subject: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
To: h-costume@indra.com, h-needlework@ansteorra.org,
        sca-arts@raven.cc.ukans.edu
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Hello to the list.

I would like to ask if anyone has pictures/information or knows where I might 
look for pictures/informatio about pre-Carolingian (i.e. Merovingian, 5th-8th 
century C.E.) Frankish clothing worn by nuns.  (Other Frankish groups, such 
as the Visigoths, etc., would also be considered if that is all I can find.)  
The contemporary literature mentions the fact that they did take the veil, 
but I have not been able to find anything further on the subject.  Thank you 
for any clues you might have.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 00:02:34 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

>I would like to ask if anyone has pictures/information or knows where I
might 
>look for pictures/informatio about pre-Carolingian (i.e. Merovingian,
5th-8th 
>century C.E.) Frankish clothing worn by nuns.  (Other Frankish groups, such 
>as the Visigoths, etc., would also be considered if that is all I can
find.)  
>The contemporary literature mentions the fact that they did take the veil, 
>but I have not been able to find anything further on the subject.  Thank you 
>for any clues you might have.

A friend of mine has done a lot of research on the female religious orders
and I remember a conversation about her research that through at least the
13th c they were mostly still wearing the same fashions as civilians.  (who
also wore veils in these periods...)

Julie Adams

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 00:06:54 1999
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From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

K & J Hopkins wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> 
> The ball dress that Deborah Kerr worn in the King and I.  But then I would
> have to know how to Polka and also have Yul Brynner to dance with.  That
> was one of my earliest romantic fantasies.
> 

One of my favorite movies/plays but I always wanted
the King's outfits! (with a modest blouse of course)
Or Tuptim's maybe. Those big hoop skirts always seemed
so silly. And she had to keep fussing with it all the
time (I realize now, that was "business" as they say,
something to do while she delivered her lines, but
then it seemed fussy) 
  The king didn't have to fiddle with his clothes,
or kick them out of the way, they just hung there
looking gorgeous.
  yes, well, each to her own! Can't wait to see
Anna and the King!

Susan F.



-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <NDBBJDHCCMCECNKOPKNDAEHKCJAA.wandapease@bigfoot.com><Pine.GSO.4.10.9912131403510.9820-100000@kirk.dnaco.net> <4.2.0.58.19991216144436.0098ce20@djnash.mail.iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 22:19:51 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

> >
> > > Murphy's Laws of Sewing (Anonymous)

> And another--The bobbin runs out at the _beginning_ of that 10-yard hem,
> but you don't realize it until you've finished "stitching" it!
>
> Doris

  This happens to me almost every time I sew pleats, *after* I have
struggled to get them to go under the foot in an even manner and I have
removed the pins.

Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <38595654.2A56B797@serv.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: tattoos & attitudes OT
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 22:48:36 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>


> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
> Does anyone besides me think that this thread is *WAY* off topic?
> What does this have to do with Historical Costuming?  Current
> attitudes, yes, historical?  Hmmmmm.  I reserve your right to talk
> about this, but does it have to be here?
>
> Cynthia

   I agree with Cynthia, tattoos are not historical costuming. Historical
costuming is something we can take on and off, representing a time period
and/or country, etc. I don't think that tattoos fit into this category. They
aren't necessarily representative of a time period, like bustles or white
wigs, and you can't take them off. If the tattoos are representative of a
group or area, then it would be a anthropological or cultural topic.
   I was perfectly happy staying out of it, until I read this...
--------------------------------------
<< You owe me an apology. >>

No I don't

<<You are right about one thing, if I skip the thread, I needn't be exposed
to
your narrowminded judgemental attitude.>>

Who's being judgmental now? I ask a question about a very obscure and obtuse
statement that seems to make little sense to me and then calmly make a
reasonable suggestion that you skip the thread rather than censor it.

Perhaps you owe us all an apology for asking us to stop a very interesting
topic simply because YOU don't like it.

And I never called you names.

Lighten up!
-----------------------------
...and this a heated argument, not costuming, not anthropology, and not
cultural diversity.  Any way you look at it, it is not a learning
experience. I am begining not to look forward to reading my email.  I
decided to speak up, knowing that there are several people who aren't happy
with the present situation.
   I understand there are those who want to discuss it for the learning
benefits. If anyone wants to continue this discussion, can you please take
it to private email? Please?

Michelle
(Please don't take this as an invitation to pick apart what I have said. I
won't be participating in any debates.)


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Subject: Re: H-COST: tattoos & attitudes OT
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

How many times must I apologize to the LIST before the subject is dropped?
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912162334.PAA12351@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 22:58:47 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>


> >Like all good plans, there's a flaw.  I have to *remember* to refil the
> >empties.
>
>
> This is one of the reasons I love my Singer 20U commercial machine.  The
> bobbin winder is designed so that you can put a second cone or spool of
> thread on the machine, thread up the bobbin, and it will wind while you
> stitch.  By the time bobbin #1 is empty, #2 is full.
>
> Margo

Does it happen at the same speed that you use it? In other words, does the
second bobbin load at the same speed as the bobbin you are using to sew
with? Can you see it happening?  If you could, it would give you an idea of
when you were going to run out. My machine doesn't have a bobbin alarm and I
think being able to see the second one fill could be a wondrous thing.

Michelle

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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>, <scA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
References: <19991216234441.27377.qmail@web2102.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: WAY OT - altering t-shirt
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 23:01:02 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>



> 
> -Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
> 
> This is way out of the realm of these lists, but I
> don't know where to go.  I have a new t-shirt that I
> LOVE, but it has a high, man's-type neck, which i
> don't like.  Is there some way to change the neck?  Uh
> oh, i don't have a serger!  Thanks.

You can cut it to the shape you want and cover it with bias tape. 

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 00:25:24 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 22:43:38 -0800
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: H-COST: more shawls
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

BTW there's a "pashmina" shawl going for over $1700 on Amazon auctions.

It says: 
"Pashmina Shawls are known for their softness and durability. Their name
is
derived from the Persian word Pashm  which means soft and mina which
means
hair. The pashmina wool comes from the down of Ibex, a mountain goat
that
thrives at 14,000 ft above sea level in the Himalayan Mountains. The
shawl is
warmer and lighter than cashmere and far more durable. With proper care
it will
last long after other woolens have worn out."

This is nonsense. The persian word pashm means wool. period. 
Pashmina appears to be the Kashmiri/Urdu word for what we call
cashmere. It does not come from the Ibex, which is indeed a
wild mountain goat and a different animal from the domesticated
cashmere-bearing goat. Pashmina also has no *legal* meaning. If you
advertise a garment as "pashmina", as in a catalogue I saw
recently, you must by law, also state the actual fiber content.
e.g. 80% cashmere, 20% silk.

For more information, see: The Online Textile Newsletter about Pashima, 
http://www.onlinetextilenews.com/news/94074354296643.htm

Hope this is historic enough! But I hate all the glib
misinformation bandied about on the auction sites.

cheers,

Susan Fatemi

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 00:53:45 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 02:12:21 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

I began costuming out of the desire to have my "dream" 20's repro dress.  My 
then mother-in-law pulled out this marvelous silver, green and gold bias cut, 
totally beaded delicacy from the 20s (her mothers) and I just had to have one.

But now, since I've got four, I think perhaps something along the lines of 
Maria Luisa's dress on p.320 of Boucher.  All frothy, gilt and tissued, with 
handwork top to bottom... Ah, now for the time!



+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume Design
"I have no other but a woman's reason: 
I think him so, because I think him so."
Two Gentlemen of Verona, Act I, Sc. I - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 00:53:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 16:51:48 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>
Subject: H-COST: Fwd: forgive me for asking, but ...
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-Poster: Carolyn Kayta Barrows <kayta@slip.net>

>Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 10:36:24 -0500 (EST)
>From: STRAUSS@WCUVAX1.WCU.EDU
>Subject: forgive me for asking, but ...
>To: kayta@slip.net
>X-VMS-To: IN%"kayta@slip.net"
>X-VMS-Cc: STRAUSS
>
>I am following H-Costume for my wife, who is a costumer.
>I get the digest version. Apparently, at some point, the home
>address was changed (for the list) and I am no longer able to
>reply/post/etc. Just read the digests.
>
>Could you forward this note to the list or the listowner? I just need
>an address where I can post resources. (I read that NY Times piece,
>from yesterday, on stone age weaving, and tried to post it, and
>the URL to this list. Both times failed.)
>
>Thanks,
>Bob Strauss
>
>====================================================================
>Bob Strauss                                      Cataloger
>Hunter Library                                   Western Carolina U.
>strauss@wcu.edu
>Class home page:    http://www3.wcu.edu/~strauss
>Personal home page: http://www3.wcu.edu/~strauss/personal
>====================================================================


Kayta
     ////.\\\
    ////-@@\\\
   ((((   7 (((
     |   -- ))))
     * )   (((((
  /----\   /---\

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 01:43:58 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 03:01:52 -0500
From: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
Subject: H-COST: IS THE LIST OWNER THERE ????
To: LIST historic costume <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
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-Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>

CAN THE LIST OWNER PLEASE CONTACT ME ASAP

Mel
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 02:10:18 1999
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From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Melanie Wilson wrote:

> -Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
>
> CAN THE LIST OWNER PLEASE CONTACT ME ASAP
>
> Mel

Usually on majordomo's you can get the list owner at
list-owner@blech.xxx (ie, h-costume-owner@indra.com).

--Charlene

--
You don't stop laughing because you grow old; you grow old because you
stop laughing.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 02:23:49 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <s8590765.089@Mackie.com> <002001bf482c$c1dfe520$5857f4d1@pavilion>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 01:01:52 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>


> I think it would have to be that red velvet dress that Rhett makes Scarlet
> wear to Ashley's birthday party.  I don't care if it's acurate.  I know
I'm
> too fat to look good in that style and I look awful in red, but I love
that
> dress.
>
> Andrea

OH! Now you did it.  I have to go back and watch the movie again...I don't
have time for this. :)

  I guess since I already asked this list about this, it is a bit redundant
to say it again. Oh well...
   Mine would be the gown of Anne of Cleves, in her betrothal portait.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 02:33:25 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 03:48:10 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Yes, Frederick's of Hollywood is my best friend for corsets. I don't care if
they aren't period due to a very bad back. I bought my first one 15 years
ago that I've worn to SCA events and mundanely. While it does attract
attention to the breast area - I'm a 36D, the comfort was worth it.

I replace that corset 5 years ago after an accident at a Ren type faire with
a untied 7 foot pike hit me in the back. If it hadn't been for the boning
the ET's tell me I would have had a pierced lung or worse.Instead Had 2
badly bruised ribs.After that happened I always make sure I have a decent
corset on hand.

I mention Fredericks as I have tried period corsets made by friends and they
never fitted correctly, had to keep pulling them on them, plus made me look
flat chested. I just bought my latest which has lacings all down the back.

Kassandra
  -----Original Message-----
  From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Andrea Gideon
  Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 8:25 PM
  To: H-Costume
  Subject: H-COST: slightly OT corsets


  Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under modern clothes?  I'm
not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting better figure-control
than a girdle under an evening gown.  I'm assuming it would be a Victorian
corset, but don't these affect the shape of the bust also?  Do these give
support to the bust?
  Andrea

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<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D300163408-17121999>Yes,=20
Frederick's of Hollywood is my best friend for corsets. I don't care if =
they=20
aren't period due to a very bad back. I bought my first one 15 years ago =
that=20
I've worn to SCA events and mundanely. While it does attract attention =
to the=20
breast area - I'm a 36D, the comfort was worth it.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D300163408-17121999></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D300163408-17121999>I=20
replace that corset 5 years ago after an accident at a Ren type faire =
with a=20
untied 7 foot pike hit me in the back. If it hadn't been for the boning =
the ET's=20
tell me I would have had a pierced lung or worse.Instead Had 2 badly =
bruised=20
ribs.After that happened I always make sure I have a decent corset on=20
hand.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D300163408-17121999></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D300163408-17121999>I=20
mention Fredericks as I have tried period corsets made by friends and =
they never=20
fitted correctly, had to keep pulling them&nbsp;on them, plus made me =
look flat=20
chested. I just bought my latest which has lacings all down the=20
back.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D300163408-17121999></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D300163408-17121999>Kassandra</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV align=3Dleft class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
owner-h-costume@indra.com=20
  [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Andrea=20
  Gideon<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, December 16, 1999 8:25 =
PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
  H-Costume<BR><B>Subject:</B> H-COST: slightly OT =
corsets<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset =
under modern=20
  clothes?&nbsp; I'm not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting =
better=20
  figure-control than a girdle under an evening gown.&nbsp; I'm assuming =
it=20
  would be a Victorian corset, but don't these affect the shape of the =
bust=20
  also?&nbsp; Do these give support to the bust?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andrea</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 02:37:19 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912170301_MC2-9163-4A00@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: IS THE LIST OWNER THERE ????
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 01:15:06 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

Mel,
 I pulled this out of my welcome message for you.

To reach a genuine human being, for help with problems encountered when
using this list, send mail to the list owner, Elizabeth Lear, via:
owner-h-costume@indra.com

Michelle
> 
> -Poster: Melanie Wilson <MelanieWilson@compuserve.com>
> 
> CAN THE LIST OWNER PLEASE CONTACT ME ASAP
> 
> Mel


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 02:44:24 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 04:03:39 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Queen Elizabeth's Effigy Corset?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

I couldn't find the photo in my 1997 Costume and Fashion Press edition of 
Bradfield's Costume in Detail.  I've been wracking my brain to remember where 
I saw it, but to no avail. Bradfield starts in the early, 1700's, so I'm not 
quite sure why she would have included it in an earlier edition, either.

Hope
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 03:06:37 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 13c buttons
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

I believe the buttons are sewed to the leading edge of one side of the 
closure, not set in an inch on the face of the fabric as we do today.  On the 
other side of the garment, the button holes come right up to the edge, with 
an integrated tablet-woven edging of silk for strength and durability.  The 
Museum of London Costume series has diagrams showing how this was done.  The 
band was tablet woven and sewn to the edge of the fabric at the same time, i. 
e. created on the garment, not prior.  The detail at the lower six inches of 
the sleeve opening was treated the same way.  The ancient and even recent 
Peruvians had/have a similar integral edge binding woven, and each pass of 
the weft sewn into the leading edge of the garment.  The Peruvians didn't 
tablet weave it, just wove it.  I mention it, because, and it might be less 
daunting to you than learning tablet weaving.  Directions are in the The 
Weaving Spinning and dying Book by Rachel Brown, Knopf, 1980, and it is 
sometimes shown in 50's and 60's books of fine tailoring as an edge detail 
for a woman's wool suit jacket.  Alternatively, a visible eighth-inch to 3/8 
" wide silk bias edge or sewn-on shiny rayon twill style band butted to the 
edge of the faced fabric and sewn on (not on it, but edge to edge) would 
replicate the look. 

Hope Dunlap

Hope Dunlap
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: For Those Engaged in 12th Night Sewing Madness
In-reply-to: <199912161950.MAA01113@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

> > It's still a pain but there's always another full bobbin to pop in
> > when  the one I'm using runs out. 

> I love this! When the bobbin runs out for me, I usually just take it 
> as a sign that I need a small break. 

Sometimes, so do I.  It depends how close the deadline is and how 
late at night it happens!




Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hi Cynthia 
 
> Bad bunny!  See below. 

For some reason the *first post* you sent appeared in a *later* 
digest from the one I responded too

> Opus Anglicanum: English Medieval Embroidery
> 

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 03:35:58 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: question regarding a picture
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 04:49:37 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

Are you talking about one of Queen Elizabeth's dresses?
Kassandra

-----Original Message-----


-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/13/99 11:23:38 AM Central Standard Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< 
  A woman I know reproduced the the Phoenix gown and
 >> what she did was used lots of little tabs of ribbon.  >>

Can anyone point me to a picture of this gown?  
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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Subject: Re: Santa Cloths (was Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes)
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

The original Santa lived in Asia Minor.  Date?  about 3-6th Century I think, 
but don't quote me.  I wonder what HE wore!

Hope
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 13c buttons
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

I can't comment on pierced buttons for the period, or metal post buttons 
either.  I know that fabric-covered wooden balls, stone, or seeds, with a 
shank made out of the same silk buttonhole twist used for the buttonholes 
were very common.  The fabric was typically the same fabric used in the 
garment.  Alternatively, the ball might be covered with a woven pattern made 
with the buttonhole twist. 

Hope 
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: modern fashions
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> Those of us on the digest cant autodelete boring topics or rude
> people, Sigh. - --cin Cynthia 

True, but we can "PageDown" past them once you know what 
subject lines to look out for - that's what I do.

Even when things are within the topic of the list there's a lot of stuff 
that I skip because it's of no use to me whatsoever  - like places to 
shop and suppliers in the US that I'm extremely unlikely to ever get 
near, or periods that I don't (currently) play in etc.


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Dream Costumes
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hard choice.  I can narrow it down to 3.

1  Well within the period I play in and make but unaffordable at 
present - a full-circle, full-length houpellande with sleeves that drag 
the floor, elabotrate dagging on every edge.  It would be in one of 
the lovely 100% silk brocades we saw in the silk mill and Museum 
in Stockholm last month, preferably the red one in the Italian room, 
the sleeves lined in the blue or green version of the same fabric.

Under it, a well fitted cotehardie in gold silk brocade, with dark 
green silk hose - the sort you have to be sewn into to get them to 
fit so smoothly at the ankle - and a pair of hand sewn leather shoes 
with moderate points to the toes and pattens with gold leather 
straps.  Of course, fine linen braes and shirt next the skin.

Ooops!  I nearly forgot the chaperon to match the houpellande.  If 
i'm going that far I might as well have it hung over my shoulder by 
the liripipe, fo show,  an have one of those nice "fez" shaped hats 
on my head.  Dark green with a band of black fur at the bottom.

2.  Complete opposite.  Not a period I do much in at all.  A mid to 
late 18th century outfit.  Full skirted frock-coat, with big turn-back 
cuffs, a long waistcoat and fitted britches.  The one I want would be 
in a fairly plain mid-to-dark brown wool,  relatively undecorated with 
plain, hand-sewn buttonholes and non-fancy buttons (The one I 
*have* from this period is scarlet and white brocade...<g>).  I;d 
need the stockings, shoes, tricorn and cane to go with it of course.

It's not the usual sort of thing I go for, I'd love to have this costume, 
but if I'm going to the time of *making* costume, it usually gets 
doen in the fanciest fabrics I can get my hands on.

3.  The least likely of all.  Edwardian ladies "walking" outfit.  High 
collared blouse, little fitted jacket and fairly plain flattish-fronted 
skirt.  All the underpinnings plus shoes, umberella/parasol, and 
unfussy hat to go with it.  Probably in deep blue or creamy beige.

I could easily make this but the older I get the harder it is to do 
*convincing* female costumes...  perhaps the cost of the facial and 
limb electrolosis could be included in the cost of the dream 
costume....<g>


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

> OH! Now you did it.  I have to go back and watch the movie again...I don't
> have time for this. :)
>
>   I guess since I already asked this list about this, it is a bit
redundant
> to say it again. Oh well...
>    Mine would be the gown of Anne of Cleves, in her betrothal portait.
>
> Michelle
>

I have actually made this.  It was my first Tudor gown and took about a year
total in research and work.  When it no longer fit, I sold it, about two
years ago.  I wish I had pictures of it, but it was unflattering, so I only
wore it a few times.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 07:09:05 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:26:08 -0500
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

My dream costume is something modern, that I keep collecting stuff for,
and never making -- some wearable-art type jackets/vests.

Y'know, something that will look artsy and stylish and clearly not mass-produced.

Fortunately, I get to make my favorite clothing for my hobby (SCA) so my
dreams aren't as unattainable as they once were!

cv
--
No one can make you feel inferior without your consent. -- Elanor Roosevelt
Corollary by CV: This goes for feeling insulted, angry, and being happy.

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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

I think they've changed the terminology slightly, for manmade stones. 
(Or else I've been misinformed, always a possibility.)

Synthetic stones are made of whatever (glass, plastic, etc.)

Lab-created stones are the ones with identical molecular structure to
the real/natural stone, indistinguishable except for chemical markers
that a professional could look for.  (They floresce, or do other things....)

Then of course there are the various heat-and-other treatments, which
are detailed in the Fire Mtn. Gems catalog.

cv
--
Cynthia du Pre Argent
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 05:55:49 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Hi!  I've been looking *forever* for information on Codpieces, other than
the Codpiece web site and as many protrait & pictures I can find!

Could you list your sources, pretty please with chocolate on top (see, I
used chocolate instead of sugar...*g*).

Gia/Giacinta


>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>M311@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> << giant codpieces  >>
>>
>> This is not anything I know alot about.  I pretty much know what I
>> have heard on here or seen in movies.  This is not my area.  I was
>> reading a historical novel awhile back.  In it the main character
>> asked the main women if she liked the bells that he put on his
>> codpiece and the way the jungled when he walked.  Did they really put
>> bells on them?
>
>That depends... on the region, the period, the occasion for which the
>codpiece was made.  The style has been for 'larger' codpieces, 'smaller'
>codpieces, flamboyant codpieces, ludicrous codpieces, subdued codpieces,
>if you can think of it I'll lay odds that someone, somewhere, somewhen
>has probably done it (provided it is based on period materials,
>construction & knowledge! <wink>).
>
>Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 08:01:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:17:02 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Gia Gavino-Gattshall wrote:
> 
> Hi!  I've been looking *forever* for information on Codpieces, other
> than the Codpiece web site and as many protrait & pictures I can find!
> 
> Could you list your sources, pretty please with chocolate on top (see,
> I used chocolate instead of sugar...*g*).

Gosh! I wish I could... I adore chocolate!  The information came from a
class given by a Laurel in the SCA some time ago.  I do know a costuming
Laurel of over 25 years in the art who does primarily 15thC who might be
able to help.  Should I forward the post?

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 08:06:30 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Margo Anderson wrote:
> I've heard of feet growing, usually with childbearing, but how did you
> get them to shrink?

I'm not sure!  I started adulthood in 7-1/2 A (not AA not B... but A,
which they don't *make* anymore!).  Then I got pregnant with my
daughter... went up to a 9 until delivery and went back down to an 8. 
Then I got pregnant with my son.  Went up to a 9-1/2-10 and went back
down to a 9.  Then about six months after he weaned (at 2-1/2 years), I
found that I was in an 8-1/2 and none of my thigh high boots fit.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 08:09:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:26:30 EST
Subject: H-COST: dream costume
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



If I could have anything, price no object, and no need to worry about a place 
to wear it . . . first, I'd have a Jane Austin era gown. I love them and I 
have nowhere to wear them. Next, an 1890s thing with a bustle, train, and 
tons of fabric trim.

How about dream costume you COULD wear? If I could have anything, I'd take a 
1300s wool gown (slightly before what I usually do) covered with gold bezants 
shaped like heraldic suns, and everything that could possibly go with it. All 
embroidered, beaded, and jewelled, of course. It's all that gold, embroidery, 
and rounded gemstones that get between me and that ideal . .. 

Gail Finke

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 08:10:50 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:25:40 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Kristen Morgaine Sieber wrote:
> 
> This is way out of the realm of these lists, but I
> don't know where to go.  I have a new t-shirt that I
> LOVE, but it has a high, man's-type neck, which i
> don't like.  Is there some way to change the neck?  Uh
> oh, i don't have a serger!  Thanks.

Depends on what kind of neck you want.  If you want, you can take it to
the local fabric shop & buy ribbing to put around the new neckline.  Use
a stretch stitch or zigzag.  Or you can just cut it & hem it using a
stretch stitch or zigzag.  There are some performed collars out there
(usually on the notions wall with the cuffs) but fabric stores that
carry knits should also have 'half' bolts of ribbing which you can then
cut into the width you want.  Make sure that you double the ribbing. 
Sew it to the neckline and then fold it over and stitch down.  You may
do this either on the inside or the outside depending on the type of
stitching you want to do and the effect you want.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 08:15:00 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: dream costume
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-Poster: ches@io.com

That red dress from Gone with the Wind!! Definityl my second choice, I
desperatly want that dress and the figure to wear it with!! Red velvet,
feathers, and sparkles, right?

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 08:28:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:42:46 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
In-reply-to: <199912171358.GAA07252@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Hmmm, the end of this post didn't display (not in the digest I 
received anyway)

> From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:44:46 +0000 (GMT)
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Period waleless corduroy!!
> 
> - -Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> 
> Hi Cynthia 
> 
> > Bad bunny!  See below. 
> 
> For some reason the *first post* you sent appeared in a *later* 
> digest from the one I responded too
> 
> > Opus Anglicanum: English Medieval Embroidery
> > 

Missing part said....

The easy route for me to see a copy of the book didn't work as we 
don't have it in stock here at work.

I don't know if I'd recognize waleless corduroy if I saw it - it's not 
anything I've ever seen in the shops here.  If it doesn't have the 
distinctive "ridges/stripes" of regular corduroy, I suspect all the 
shops here would sell it as "velvet" in the same way that they don't 
differentiate between velvet and what you Americans describe as 
"velveteen"

Unless I've missed it entirely - any Brits on the list care to 
comment??




Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 08:45:44 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:03:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>

I think I will delurk to respond to this one because I
have fantasies all the time about making all kinds of
costumes for myself but not enough time or money to
make them, or a place to wear them. Probably my #1
fantasy would be to make an 18th c. court lady's gown
with panniers. Complete with wig and shoes--must have
the shoes!! However, I play in the SCA and most of my
costuming efforts are aimed at pre-17th c. 

I did make one foray recently into the Victorian era
by making a corset, but haven't made anything to wear
over it yet. 

--- Colleen McDonald Hinrichs <Colleen@mackie.com>
wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs"
> <Colleen@Mackie.com>
> 
> Here's a question for the list:
> 
> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a
> costume that is completely outside of your current
> interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a better way
> of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you
> absolutely admire on others, but will probably never
> get around to making for yourself?
> 
> For me, the answer would be an exceedingly well-done
> Middle Eastern (can't give you a specific period - I
> don't know enought about it).  There's just
> something about the look that is visually appealing
> to me.
> 
> The other option would be high court Chinese - we
> have a costumer in my area who does T'ang Dynasty
> stuff that is to die for and I just drool whenever
> she goes all out.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing other responses,
> 
> Colleen
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 


=====
Megan Irvine <mirv01@yahoo.com>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores.  Millions of Products.  All in one place.
Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:19:24 EST
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< through at least the
 13th c they were mostly still wearing the same fashions as civilians.  (who
 also wore veils in these periods...) >>

That is what I am wondering.  However, since the literature specifically 
mentions "taking the veil", that sounds to me that some special clothing or 
item of clothing was put on that denoted being a nun.  

Thanks for a first input, Julia!
Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 09:10:01 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:27:39 EST
Subject: H-COST: Merovingian bees
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Hello to the list.

I never did figure out/get a direct answer about where to find actual 
information on the Merovingian robe embroidered with bees.  Did someone post 
it, and I missed it?!

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 09:31:52 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:48:00 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

Although nun's habits are not an area of particular interest for me, my
understanding is that the style of the habits reflects the common
clothing of the era which the order was founded. It was supposed to be
the greatly simplified and stripped down version, but given some
accusations I have read about the wealthier orders, perhaps not as
simplified as they should have been! In any case, since all (Christian)
women were wearing veils at this point in time, the phrase 'taking the
veil' would not seem to make much sense unless the literature was written
down at a later time
when the phrase would have had significance or the person who translated
it (English cetainly hadn't developed yet!) used a colloquial phrase
common from their time which might not be an exact translation of the
original (Latin?). 

Karen


On Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:19:24 EST SNSpies@aol.com writes:
> 
> -Poster: SNSpies@aol.com
> 
> << through at least the
>  13th c they were mostly still wearing the same fashions as 
> civilians.  (who
>  also wore veils in these periods...) >>
> 
> That is what I am wondering.  However, since the literature 
> specifically 
> mentions "taking the veil", that sounds to me that some special 
> clothing or 
> item of clothing was put on that denoted being a nun.  
> 
> Thanks for a first input, Julia!
> Nancy
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 09:38:29 1999
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From: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)

My fantasy? A Japanese noblewoman's costume from the Heian period 
(794-1185), made up of hakama trousers and five (or more) kimono-like 
trailing silk robes layered on top. The colour arrangements are seasonal; 
right now, I'd like to wear "Beneath the Snow"--top two robes of white, then 
dark plum-pink, medium plum-pink, and light plum-pink robes, with a scarlet 
pink chemise (inner kimono). The layers of colours show at the sleeve, at 
the front overlap, and at the hem. Of course, to do it properly, you'd need 
at least twenty different silk kimono robes in different colours--and sizes! 
outer layer robes are cut shorter than inner ones, so that the inner colours 
show--and a hundred would be better. Ankle-length black hair would complete 
the look. (Oh, and about a year's worth of tutoring in deportment, to be 
able to move with the grace essential to such an outfit!)
 
I've been fantasizing about this (but _not_ researching it!) ever since I 
read Liza Dalby's description in _Kimono_ (see pp. 217-269). To me, it seems 
every bit as opulent as court Elizabethan, but far more subtle. 

Your humble & obedient servant,
Angela Gottfred

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 09:43:52 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:04:54 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

When I was asked to wear a bridesmaid dress with spaghetti straps, I looked
and looked for a foundation garment that would support without straps and
never found one that would hold me up *and* in at the same time.  I ended up
wearing my late Victorian corset under the dress and it worked out well.
The other six bridesmaids kept squirming and adjusting and eventually
stopped thinking that I take my costuming a little too far... My posture was
never straighter than on that day, too.  I love the support of all of my
corsets, and would wear it out more often, but unfortunately, with many of
today's fabrics and fairly close fits, the line of the corset can often be
clearly seen.  Depends on what you wear over it.

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: AliaClaire@aol.com [mailto:AliaClaire@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 5:51 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets



-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

In a message dated 12/16/1999 8:15:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
ahgideon@earthlink.net writes:

<< Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under modern clothes?  I'm 
not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting better figure-control 
than a girdle under an evening gown.  I'm assuming it would be a Victorian 
corset, but don't these affect the shape of the bust also?  Do these give 
support to the bust? >>

I've thrown a sweatshirt and other things over my  (1870ish) corset when
I've 
been running around the house fitting a dress. I've found it is simply 
wonderful for a bad back, and yes, it does support the bust. Better then 
modern undergarments! I love the silhouettes it gives, but I've never worn
it 
out. It is noticeable. I wish it wasn't...or else, I wish I could be that 
shape without it, LOL.

-Alison Stacy
AliaClaire@aol.com
Acstacy@cc.owu.edu
Ohio Wesleyan University
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 09:47:29 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:04:24 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Karen wrote:

<<  all (Christian)
 women were wearing veils at this point in time, the phrase 'taking the
 veil' would not seem to make much sense unless the literature was written
 down at a later time
 when the phrase would have had significance or the person who translated
 it (English cetainly hadn't developed yet!) used a colloquial phrase
 common from their time which might not be an exact translation of the
 original (Latin?).  >>

That is indeed possible.  But there is still the underlying sense that they 
put something on that made it possible to tell that they were now nuns.  I am 
wondering if the women wore the basic monk habits but with some sort of veil 
...

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 10:07:30 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:27:50 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

I have a picture of the Queen of the Belgians by Franz Winterhalter on my
desktop--every day I see it, and always want to recreate the gown and
hairstyle she's wearing (c. 1840s)--the yards of pink satin and black lace,
the rose in the hair...  <sigh>

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Colleen McDonald Hinrichs [mailto:Colleen@mackie.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 3:38 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Dream costume?



-Poster: "Colleen McDonald Hinrichs" <Colleen@Mackie.com>

Here's a question for the list:

If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a
better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire
on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?

For me, the answer would be an exceedingly well-done Middle Eastern (can't
give you a specific period - I don't know enought about it).  There's just
something about the look that is visually appealing to me.

The other option would be high court Chinese - we have a costumer in my area
who does T'ang Dynasty stuff that is to die for and I just drool whenever
she goes all out.

Looking forward to seeing other responses,

Colleen


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 10:14:38 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:27:06 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  >You just summed up my fantasy costume! But I'd use real rubies. No
limits on
>  >the dream, right? ;)
>  >
>  Synthetic rubies are real, they are just grown in labs rather than under
>  natural conditions.  How they do this, I have no idea.  They are
>  indistiguishable from natural stones, unless examined under a microscope.
>  My mom has one, about five carats, and it is gorgeous, even considering
the
>  $40 my dad paid for it.  

Oh, yeah! I had forgotten about those. I still think I'd like the 'original'
rocks, though. If I'm going to have the dream period costume, I'd like the
dream period details, too! ;)

Actually, I could also use a few dream period maids, cooks, butlers, etc. .
. .

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:51:55 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Could someone explain what tablet woven edging is? Thanks.

Once you've looked at the tablet woven edging website, take you mind
one more step.  Using 3-4 cards, you sew this tablet weaving onto a
garment as you weave it.  Instead of having your weft threads on a
shuttle, you have them on a needle.  The needle picks up the garment
fabric on every pass by it.  You can also use this to connect pillow
tops and bottoms, pouch sides.  So you would pick the fabric up with
your needle on *every* pass.

Cynthia

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:53:54 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>



On Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:04:24 EST SNSpies@aol.com writes:
> 
> -Poster: SNSpies@aol.com
> 
> Karen wrote:
> 
And that too is a possibility, but that presupposes that monk's habits
were recognizable as a seperate type of clothing during the Merovingian
period. Since most habits that I have see have later medieval details (
not proof but an indication) I'm not sure what a Merovingian monk would
have looked like either! Perhaps if you could share the actual quote with
us, we could get a better idea of how the language was used. I would
still tend towards the stripped down version of normal clothing idea for
any member of a religious order during this period. Have you tried asking
folks at your local Catholic diocese? They might have some idea of what
and early Christian monk/nun might have worn. 

Karen


> That is indeed possible.  But there is still the underlying sense 
> that they  put something on that made it possible to tell that they
were now 
> nuns.  I am  wondering if the women wore the basic monk habits but with
some sort 
> of veil 
> ...
> 
> Nancy
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 10:38:35 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:44:57 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

Absolutely! This has been one of my favorite concepts for a costume for
several years and for much the same reason. The fact that I am a Northern
European poster-child be damned! I will find a way to wear kimono!

Karen

On Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:57:15 -0700 agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela
Gottfred) writes:
> 
> -Poster: agottfre@telusplanet.net (Angela Gottfred)
> 
> My fantasy? A Japanese noblewoman's costume from the Heian period 
> (794-1185), made up of hakama trousers and five (or more) 
> kimono-like 
> trailing silk robes layered on top. The colour arrangements are 
> seasonal; 
> right now, I'd like to wear "Beneath the Snow"--top two robes of 
> white, then 
> dark plum-pink, medium plum-pink, and light plum-pink robes, with a 
> scarlet 
> pink chemise (inner kimono). The layers of colours show at the 
> sleeve, at 
> the front overlap, and at the hem. Of course, to do it properly, 
> you'd need 
> at least twenty different silk kimono robes in different 
> colours--and sizes! 
> outer layer robes are cut shorter than inner ones, so that the inner 
> colours 
> show--and a hundred would be better. Ankle-length black hair would 
> complete 
> the look. (Oh, and about a year's worth of tutoring in deportment, 
> to be 
> able to move with the grace essential to such an outfit!)
>  
> I've been fantasizing about this (but _not_ researching it!) ever 
> since I 
> read Liza Dalby's description in _Kimono_ (see pp. 217-269). To me, 
> it seems 
> every bit as opulent as court Elizabethan, but far more subtle. 
> 
> Your humble & obedient servant,
> Angela Gottfred
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 17:02:37 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Off-Topic!!  Raincoat advise...
In-reply-to: <199912171626.JAA12253@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Sorry for the off-topic posting but I thought the combined 
knowledge of this list could help...  

Please reply off-list to save cluttering it up with off-topic subjects

My favourite raincoat is 13 years old and looks it (and no longer 
waterproof in important places like both shoulders...<g>)

I want to replace it but can't find *anything* in the shops that isn't 
synthetic fibre, padded, fleecy lined, too short and in a *dull* colour.

As I want a bright-coloured, lightweight (possibly lined, but the one 
I'm replacing isn't),  loose, longish (below knee at least) coat with 
at least some natural fibre in the fabric composition, I'm resigned to 
making my own.

My question is, how do I waterproof the fabric?  I have Yards of 
multi-coloured (loud patterned) printed cotton I'd like to use if 
possible, but no idea how to make it waterproof (or at least a *bit* 
waterproof)

Any ideas?

Next thing I should point out (for those that don't know it already) is 
that whatever it is preferably needs to be available in the UK as I 
live in England and getting stuff from abroad is a *major* headache.

Perhaps I'm hoping for too much...?

Thanks in advance for any help?

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 01:39 AM 12/17/1999 EST, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: DDunker@aol.com
>
>How many times must I apologize to the LIST before the subject is dropped?


Just because you asked the initial question, doesn't mean you're responsible
for the squabbling.  The original question was completely legitimate;  the
current dissin' isn't.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:00:33 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>>
>> This is one of the reasons I love my Singer 20U commercial machine.  The
>> bobbin winder is designed so that you can put a second cone or spool of
>> thread on the machine, thread up the bobbin, and it will wind while you
>> stitch.  By the time bobbin #1 is empty, #2 is full.
>>

>Does it happen at the same speed that you use it? In other words, does the
>second bobbin load at the same speed as the bobbin you are using to sew
>with?

No, it usually fills long before th first one runs out.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:00:54 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:23:59 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: more shawls
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I agree with this and would also like to add that there is some kind of
shawl that costs many $$$ that is supposedly the rage amongst those who have
too much money. It is being made from the hair of an endangered Tibetan goat
- or whatever - and the animal has to be killed to get the hair.  DON'T BUY
THEM - Please.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: H-COST: more shawls
>Date: Thu, Dec 16, 1999, 10:43 PM
>

>
>-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
>
>BTW there's a "pashmina" shawl going for over $1700 on Amazon auctions.
>
>It says: 
>"Pashmina Shawls are known for their softness and durability. Their name
>is
>derived from the Persian word Pashm  which means soft and mina which
>means
>hair. The pashmina wool comes from the down of Ibex, a mountain goat
>that
>thrives at 14,000 ft above sea level in the Himalayan Mountains. The
>shawl is
>warmer and lighter than cashmere and far more durable. With proper care
>it will
>last long after other woolens have worn out."
>
>This is nonsense. The persian word pashm means wool. period. 
>Pashmina appears to be the Kashmiri/Urdu word for what we call
>cashmere. It does not come from the Ibex, which is indeed a
>wild mountain goat and a different animal from the domesticated
>cashmere-bearing goat. Pashmina also has no *legal* meaning. If you
>advertise a garment as "pashmina", as in a catalogue I saw
>recently, you must by law, also state the actual fiber content.
>e.g. 80% cashmere, 20% silk.
>
>For more information, see: The Online Textile Newsletter about Pashima, 
>http://www.onlinetextilenews.com/news/94074354296643.htm
>
>Hope this is historic enough! But I hate all the glib
>misinformation bandied about on the auction sites.
>
>cheers,
>
>Susan Fatemi
>
>-- 
>Oh Noh! Kimonos!
>susanf@netwiz.net
>http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:30:13 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  >You just summed up my fantasy costume! But I'd use real rubies. No
limits on
>  >the dream, right? ;)
>  >
>  Synthetic rubies are real, they are just grown in labs rather than under
>  natural conditions.  How they do this, I have no idea.  They are
>  indistiguishable from natural stones, unless examined under a microscope.
>  My mom has one, about five carats, and it is gorgeous, even considering
the
>  $40 my dad paid for it.  

Oh, yeah! I had forgotten about those. I still think I'd like the 'original'
rocks, though. If I'm going to have the dream period costume, I'd like the
dream period details, too! ;)

Actually, I could also use a few dream period maids, cooks, butlers, etc. .
. .

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:12:53 1999
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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991216234441.27377.qmail@web2102.mail.yahoo.com> <385A47E4.81572B43@home.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: WAY OT - altering t-shirt
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:30:09 -0800
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

> Depends on what kind of neck you want.  If you want, you can take it to
> the local fabric shop & buy ribbing to put around the new neckline.  Use
> a stretch stitch or zigzag.

Please don't use a stratch stitch.  A regualr straight stitch will work
fine.  Stretch the fabric and ribbing as you sew and you won't have a
problem with it and won't get 3 times the holes in the fabric as you
need.....

Dan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:18:02 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:41:17 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: historic costuming tattoos 
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>The other incident is a design for "Three Penny Opera" I saw where the 
>designer gave Polly a butterfly tattoo on her bicep. Another...if more 
>fantastical, statement enhancing character and plot thru costume.

In "The Piano" the character played by Harvey Keitel has Maori-like
tattoos on his face.  This gives the audience the feeling he has
"gone-native", but also is a visual manifestation of his character's
wild, unpredictable nature and sets him apart from the female lead's
staid husband, played by Sam Neill.  It is a powerful visual signal
in the film. (If you haven't seen "The Piano" I highly recommend it).
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:21:20 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Off-Topic!!  Raincoat advise...
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Here in the US any decent dry cleaners will re-waterproof a raincoat for a small charge.  In good hardware stores and camping goods stores, there are arerosol and brush applied waterproofing agents for fabrics.  Like the commercial waterproofing materials, they slowly wear off with cleaning, but they can be reapplied indefinitely.  They do not change the color of standard raincoat fabrics.  The products, particularly the brush-applied version, are also used for tents.  You can probably find the product on line at REI, Inc., a major US camping and sports gear retailer, otherwise Known as Recreational Equipment Coop, based in Seattle.  It is inconceivable to me that a Brit would have to go to a US manufacturer for a waterproofing agent, however! 
Hope 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:21:25 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:45:20 -0500
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From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>>If you had the time, money, inclination....

It would be a Byzantine/Queen Theodora knock-off.  Sumptuous
heavy fabrics encrusted with metalic embroideries and tons of rough 
cabochon gems set into the trim, crown and earrings.  
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:26:38 1999
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From: "Jones, D." <djones@protocare.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: "Jones, D." <djones@protocare.com>

<Carolyn wrote>
18th Century Court dress - not the Pannier type, but the gonzo Marie
Antoinette, miles of silver tissue, 400 pounds of fabric jobbers. <snipped>

A Marie Antoinette court is my fantasy, too. One w/ big hair--a ship or
pastoral scene perhaps? <g>

Happy Holidays to all.

Ride Forever!

D.
djones1@usa.net
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:01:17 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: To dream the impossible costume...
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>

>...voided, 3 pile velvet in a rich brocade pattern...real cloth of gold, 
>real gold embroidery, some of those beautiful gold and enamelled billiments, 
>a cream satin petticoat entirely embroidered in colored silks, big sleeves 
>entirely blackworked, foot-wide handmade lace ruff, hand-worked silk
stockings,
>one of those wonderfully over-the-top sculpted and enamelled brooches....
-------------------------------
STOP, you're killing me!  I plan to make that outfit after I retire and
shortly before I lose my eyesight (as a result of the embroidery).
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:43:53 1999
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From: "Jones, D." <djones@protocare.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:05:42 -0800
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-Poster: "Jones, D." <djones@protocare.com>


In a message dated 12/16/1999 8:15:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
ahgideon@earthlink.net writes:

<< Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under modern clothes?  I'm 
not talking about fetish issues, but mearly getting better figure-control 
than a girdle under an evening gown.  I'm assuming it would be a Victorian 
corset, but don't these affect the shape of the bust also?  Do these give 
support to the bust? >>

You might want to visit http://www.axfords.com/axfords.html for information
on corsets. They sell them as well. I think the site leans towards the
sexual (lots of bare-bottomed/breasted women modeling), but they have a
large selection, lots of info and some beautiful corsets as well as some
period-esque underwear.

Ride Forever!

D.
djones1@usa.net
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:46:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:05:02 EST
Subject: H-COST: Favorite Costume you have made
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-Poster: Morses3@aol.com

Greetings all,

Now that I'm starting to get out of delurk mode after a year of reading and 
learning a lot here, I thought since everyone is talking about what their 
dream costume is, it would be fun to know what the favorite thing they HAVE 
made was. Was it for yourself or someone else? What problems (or challenges 
:-) ) did you have making it, and how would you avoid those now? What would 
you change about it if you were doing it again?

I just started sewing again and I'm making the first item of costume I've 
ever made for an adult. I'm working on a long tunic in dark purple wool, 
planning to use a keyhole neckline (which I think is what is scaring me the 
most...), and trimming it in bands of another color of wool (not yet chosen) 
to be worn later under a shorter tunic-can you say Norman?  Not too exciting, 
but a good first project I hope.

Come on, I need the inspiration.....

Perry
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:50:32 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:09:31 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Nobody has to apologize for anything.  Just stop, please, or take the
argument off the main stage.  The rest of us would prefer not to watch.  


Maggie Secara
secaram@mainsaver.com

A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net

Leap, and the net will appear.
	--Orson Wells

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	DDunker@aol.com [SMTP:DDunker@aol.com]
> Sent:	Thursday, December 16, 1999 6:49 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	Re: H-COST: re: clothing mistakes
> 
> 
> -Poster: DDunker@aol.com
> 
> Yes, it is out of hand.  I told the previous poster he owed me an apology
> and 
> he refused.  He was rude to me, and accused me of "pretending".   Personal
> 
> slams are against my nature, I still feel he owes me an apology.
> 
> I should NOT have to apologize for defending my beliefs.
> 
> Darla
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:53:01 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costume you have made
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 12/17/1999 10:07:36 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
Morses3@aol.com writes:

<< I thought since everyone is talking about what their 
 dream costume is, it would be fun to know what the favorite thing they HAVE 
 made was. Was it for yourself or someone else? >>

Perry, 

To date, probably my Italian Renn gowns, although each new costume is always 
my fave at the time.  I did a red velvet for each of my daughters, one with a 
bejeweled & pearled bust and sleeves, and the other with elaborately 
embroidered and beribboned detachable sleeves.  The former is pictured at my 
site, but I don't have the pictures of my daughter in it yet.  That was my 
favorite moment, seeing the two of them looking as though they'd stepped out 
of a 400-year-old painting.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
"What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both 
wind and tide."
King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:55:07 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: codpieces
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:14:20 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

My husband used to have a "squeaky toy" set into his.  He was young.  Much
younger.  Before we met.  Not my fault.  And he was a Landsknecht.  Still
not my fault.



Cheers!

MaggiRos
secaram@mainsaver.com

A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
is at http://ren.dm.net

Leap, and the net will appear.
	--Orson Wells

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Kat & Kent [SMTP:kdyer@home.com]
> Sent:	Thursday, December 16, 1999 9:09 PM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	Re: H-COST: codpieces
> 
> 
> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> 
> M311@aol.com wrote:
> >  
> > << giant codpieces  >>
> > 
> > This is not anything I know alot about.  I pretty much know what I
> > have heard on here or seen in movies.  This is not my area.  I was
> > reading a historical novel awhile back.  In it the main character
> > asked the main women if she liked the bells that he put on his
> > codpiece and the way the jungled when he walked.  Did they really put
> > bells on them?
> 
> That depends... on the region, the period, the occasion for which the
> codpiece was made.  The style has been for 'larger' codpieces, 'smaller'
> codpieces, flamboyant codpieces, ludicrous codpieces, subdued codpieces,
> if you can think of it I'll lay odds that someone, somewhere, somewhen
> has probably done it (provided it is based on period materials,
> construction & knowledge! <wink>).
> 
> Kat
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 11:57:24 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:24:16 -0600 (EST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costume you have made
In-Reply-To: <0.64778ea0.258bd54e@aol.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

My very first costume!

It was a simple coathardy made of very unperiod silk satin that had the
highest shine in the world. It was midnight blue and you could see the
light shining off it from a mile away but I loved that dress with all my
heart! I did cut the back lace area in a curve so that it would hug me
tightly all the way down to my belly button and then flare out two full
circles worth at the floor with a 3 foot train! 15 yards of fabric and
well worth it! It danced like a dream everytime I danced with it. I got to
do all sorts of florishes with it that were very creative on the dance
floor. It was off the shoulders and low cut in front. So it was up high in
the back to help support it and my ummmm cleavage...that was 50 pounds
ago. Sigh.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Fri, 17 Dec 1999 Morses3@aol.com wrote:

> Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:05:02 EST
> From: Morses3@aol.com
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Favorite Costume you have made
> 
> 
> -Poster: Morses3@aol.com
> 
> Greetings all,
> 
> Now that I'm starting to get out of delurk mode after a year of reading and 
> learning a lot here, I thought since everyone is talking about what their 
> dream costume is, it would be fun to know what the favorite thing they HAVE 
> made was. Was it for yourself or someone else? What problems (or challenges 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 12:13:16 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:32:27 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Perhaps a veil was presented to a nun upon taking holy orders, and that veil
(as opposed to the one she used to wear) matched all the other nuns'; that
is, although their clothes would remain the same, this particular veil would
be the mark of membership, the habit before there was a habit.
 
Just a speculative thought.  


Cheers!

MaggiRos


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Karen R Bergquist [SMTP:seamstrix@juno.com]
> Sent:	Friday, December 17, 1999 8:54 AM
> To:	h-costume@indra.com
> Cc:	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject:	Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
> 
> 
> -Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:04:24 EST SNSpies@aol.com writes:
> > 
> > -Poster: SNSpies@aol.com
> > 
> > Karen wrote:
> > 
> And that too is a possibility, but that presupposes that monk's habits
> were recognizable as a seperate type of clothing during the Merovingian
> period. Since most habits that I have see have later medieval details (
> not proof but an indication) I'm not sure what a Merovingian monk would
> have looked like either! Perhaps if you could share the actual quote with
> us, we could get a better idea of how the language was used. I would
> still tend towards the stripped down version of normal clothing idea for
> any member of a religious order during this period. Have you tried asking
> folks at your local Catholic diocese? They might have some idea of what
> and early Christian monk/nun might have worn. 
> 
> Karen
> 
> 
> > That is indeed possible.  But there is still the underlying sense 
> > that they  put something on that made it possible to tell that they
> were now 
> > nuns.  I am  wondering if the women wore the basic monk habits but with
> some sort 
> > of veil 
> > ...
> > 
> > Nancy
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>  _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 12:14:20 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 18:30:11 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Off-Topic!!  Raincoat advise...
References: <65D4057949@mdx-rf-s1.nw.mdx.ac.uk>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

You can buy shoe protector spray for suede and fabric shoeswhich works
very well. I made a set of fabric suitcases I made years ago which I
have sprayed with this and used frequently in wet weather, accidentally
dumped in puddles etc. You can also now buy barbour respray for the
waxed jackets or try tent proofing spray, millets or a camping shop
should have something like that in. There is also the outdoor travel
shop in covent garden (can't remember which road it's on the right hand
side of the market which goes down towards the strand) try there.

Dawn 
> 
> -Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
> 
> Sorry for the off-topic posting but I thought the combined
> knowledge of this list could help...
> 
> Please reply off-list to save cluttering it up with off-topic subjects
> 
> My favourite raincoat is 13 years old and looks it (and no longer
> waterproof in important places like both shoulders...<g>)
> 
> I want to replace it but can't find *anything* in the shops that isn't
> synthetic fibre, padded, fleecy lined, too short and in a *dull* colour.
> 
> As I want a bright-coloured, lightweight (possibly lined, but the one
> I'm replacing isn't),  loose, longish (below knee at least) coat with
> at least some natural fibre in the fabric composition, I'm resigned to
> making my own.
> 
> My question is, how do I waterproof the fabric?  I have Yards of
> multi-coloured (loud patterned) printed cotton I'd like to use if
> possible, but no idea how to make it waterproof (or at least a *bit*
> waterproof)
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Next thing I should point out (for those that don't know it already) is
> that whatever it is preferably needs to be available in the UK as I
> live in England and getting stuff from abroad is a *major* headache.
> 
> Perhaps I'm hoping for too much...?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help?
> 
> Teddy
> (Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
> air and darkness, apparently!)
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
 Ïà¡±á


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Message-ID: <385AF605.1B@virgin.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 18:48:37 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

MAGGIE SECARA wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
> 
> I've always wanted to do a wide wide 18th century pannier gown, but I have
> no place (and the wrong figure) to wear it, so oh la, well there it is.
> Think of all the money I've saved.
> 
> This is my next for me project as opposed to my customers. I wanted it for this year as we had a mock wedding at one of our events but because I made the wedding dress and helped everyone else make new frocks I didn't get time. There are no appropriate events for next year but what the hell I'm going to make it anyway. This also means that there are no deadlines I have to work towards so I have time to do it properly.

I have found the perfect silk in heavy flat weave scarlet silk with
silver metal embroidery at £35pm. I have also just started a jewelery
degree (pt to get me out of the house) and want to make a fully jewelled
stomacher with rubies, garnets, pearls and diamonds. I have found a
picture of an original which I want to copy so now I just have to learn
to make the stone mounts etc and save up the pennies. I will be making
it as a 1740's mantua with back draping copying the original I handled
in the V&A

I am also intending to make a cranach style gown in scarlet silk velvet
with red/gold metal/silk tissue puffing and the above stones as
decoration, I also want to learn to net the headdress. This is for no
reason whatsoever as this is not a period that I am likely to re-enact
and is not widespread in the uk, except that I have been reading so many
renaissance emails from you all that I have become inspired.


Dawn

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 12:27:39 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:52:17 -0800
Subject: H-COST: codpiece
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

There is a *codpiece* site.....  The problem is that it is not very
historical.  It does provide a few links and has some history, but that is
minor.
I can't advise anyone to run to it - but if you are interested it is at
http://www.teleport.com/~codpiece/codpiece.shtml
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 12:32:33 1999
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From: "Sally Ann Chandler" <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Silk Buttons
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 18:42:19 -0000
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-Poster: "Sally Ann Chandler" <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BF48BE.72E10980
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Whilst we are on the topic of buttons ... =20

Many accounts of silkwomen in London in the 14th and 15th centuries list =
the products made by the silkwomen to include buttons.  The are =
definitely made by them not just bought to be sold on.  All the other =
goods are made from silk - girdles, ribbons, tassels etc.  (silk thread, =
not fabric)

So, what do you all think these buttons were?  So far I have come up =
with something like a Dorset button - a flat disc like affair with silk =
woven onto it or a similar idea woven over a bead.  All my research =
tells me that both of these are later developments and that buttons at =
this period were pewter or silver. =20

Any bright ideas and references very welcome.

Best wishes,

Sally Ann Chandler

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BF48BE.72E10980
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Whilst we are on the topic of =
buttons ...&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Many accounts of silkwomen in London =
in the 14th=20
and 15th centuries list the products made by the silkwomen to include=20
buttons.&nbsp; The are definitely made by them not just bought to be =
sold=20
on.&nbsp; All the other goods are made from silk - girdles, ribbons, =
tassels=20
etc.&nbsp; (silk thread, not fabric)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>So, what do you all think these =
buttons=20
were?&nbsp; So far I have come up with something like a Dorset button - =
a flat=20
disc like affair with silk woven onto it or a similar idea woven over a=20
bead.&nbsp; All my research tells me that both of these are later =
developments=20
and that buttons at this period were pewter or silver.&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Any bright ideas and references very =

welcome.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Best wishes,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Sally Ann =
Chandler</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BF48BE.72E10980--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 12:39:44 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costume you have made
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

My favorite costume that I have made for myself would be my completely
unauthentic Irish renaissance fantasy gown.

  It has a black poly rayon velevet overdress, with a laced bodice and
attached split front skirt, with hanging sleevelets.  It has interlace done
in couched silver thread on the bodice front, back, sleeves, and around the
edges of the skirt.  the skirt is edged and the sleeves are lined with black
fake mink. There are real freshwater pearls in the spaces of the interlace.
The liene is crimson rayon, with huge pleated sleeves.  there is a band of
black and silver interlace embroidery with freshwater pearls down each
sleeve.  The neck and sleeve openings have small ruffs of black and silver lace.

This dress has very little to do with history, but it captures my essential
feelings about myself.  This is the way I dress in my soul. So, it may not
be great historical costuming, but it is Art, which I don't often get to
feel I've acheived.

I don't have one favorite costume that I've made for anyone else, but I do
have two favorite people to make for, James and Cathleen Myers of P.E.E.R.S.
I've been making costumes for them for many years, since we were all new to
reenacting and costuming, and we've grown together. Most of my best work has
been done for them.

Margo Anderson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 12:52:20 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 20:08:44 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

My dreamcostume to make would be an 18th. c. french wide pannier dress
with lots of beautifull decoration on in elaborated colours. The
trimmings should be with real handmade bobbinlace, a Binche lace if i
could choose.
The shape of the hoop petticoat should not be the sharp english type,
but the elaborate french type that widens out downwards.
I have always disliked the sharp english style, it reminds me of a
couch, sofa and is very clumsy in my opinion.
I have an engraving of a french artist called Cochin, and he has made a
ballet danser dansing in this big, huge hoop very elegant and very
rococo.

Bjarne in stormy Copenhagen.


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:28:18 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< Perhaps a veil was presented to a nun upon taking holy orders, and that 
veil
 (as opposed to the one she used to wear) matched all the other nuns'; >>

That's what I'm thinking ... Thanks, Maggie.

Nancy
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:28:00 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  I have found the perfect silk in heavy flat weave scarlet silk with
>  silver metal embroidery at £35pm. I have also just started a jewelery
>  degree (pt to get me out of the house) and want to make a fully jewelled
>  stomacher with rubies, garnets, pearls and diamonds. I have found a
>  picture of an original which I want to copy so now I just have to learn
>  to make the stone mounts etc and save up the pennies. I will be making
>  it as a 1740's mantua with back draping copying the original I handled
>  in the V&A
>  
>  I am also intending to make a cranach style gown in scarlet silk velvet
>  with red/gold metal/silk tissue puffing and the above stones as
>  decoration, I also want to learn to net the headdress. This is for no
>  reason whatsoever as this is not a period that I am likely to re-enact
>  and is not widespread in the uk, except that I have been reading so many
>  renaissance emails from you all that I have become inspired.

*Pause to wipe drool from keyboard*

And there *WILL* be photos of these garment, won't there? I hope you take
pictures of the creative process. That can be even more enlightening to
those of us who are into such things. (We know who we are!)

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:43:08 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costume you have made
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Hello!

	My favorite costume that I made for myself is my first attempt, lo these
many years ago, at a late Victorian ballgown. Though it is more 'ish' than
historical, I still love it. Since at the time I'd not found the wonderful
pattern companies that carry the proper styles, I took two patterns that I
already had and started there.

	The skirt/underskirt, from Vogue, was originally to be one piece, but I
thought that separating them would make my life easier. And for once, I was
right! The underskirt is a black rayon with *miles* of black lace sweeping
the floor and climbing halfway up the back. The overskirt is a green taffeta
with a wide fuchia flounce, which is short enough to show off most of the
floor-length underskirt, and is split up the back to show of the cascade of
lace there.

	The bodice, taken from a Simplicity pattern (yes, I know, oil and water,
but it worked) is sewn to the overskirt with a straight waist, and made of
the same green material. (I didn't know how to work a point in there then,
so I decided to skip it.) The mutton-style sleeves are made in the same
black lace that edges the skirt, and the scoop neck is filled in with a
black lace collar, which comes up high on the neck, ending with a band of
the taffeta. (I made up the lace around the neck, as the pattern stopped at
the scoop neckline.) 
On the neckband, and at the base of the mutton part of the sleeve, are
fuchia roses, matching the skirt ruffle.

	I'd worn this gown a couple of times, and then decided that the front could
use some beadwork. So, with needle in hand and french jet beads by my side,
I places dangles of beads all along the scoop part of the neckline, and made
a short diamond-shaped 'apron' in beads at the front waist. I must say, it
looks beautiful. However, when done with the beading, I went to try it on.
And found that those 'few pounds' I'd come up with somewhere (funny how that
sneaks up on a person) had settled in most inappropriate places, so the
dress no longer fits. *SIGH* Back to the sit-ups. . .

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 13:31:34 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:51:49 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  >>If you had the time, money, inclination....

There is one more article of clothing worthy of mention on this thread, but
it's one I've not even dreamed of making, though I drool over the photo
every day. It is the 1883 coronation dress of Empress Maria Feodorovna of
Russia. Made with traditional Russian details, rather than European fashion
details, this is an exquisite gown. All of silver, with silver brocade,
silver embroidery, silver buttons and silver braid. Oooooooooh, yum! I have
the photo from the event book for the 'Treasures of the Czars' exhibit that
hit the US a couple of years ago. My Grandma made a busfull of her very
annoyed cronies wait 20 minutes while she picked up a copy of the book for
me. (Thanks, Grandma!)

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 13:40:40 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:59:45 -0600 (CST)
From: Lorine S Horvath <lhorvath@plains.nodak.edu>
To: H-Needlework@Ansteorra.ORG
cc: h-costume@indra.com, sca-arts@raven.cc.ukans.edu
Subject: H-COST: Re: HNW - Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: Lorine S Horvath <lhorvath@plains.nodak.edu>

According to "Dress in Anglo-Saxon England" by Gale R. Owen-Crocker
(Manchester University Press, 1986) pg. 87.
"There seems to have been no uniformity about dress for early Anglo-Saxon
nuns and many sisters seem to have been far less ascetic than St.
Etheldreda, failing to appreciate that unworldly dress should have been a
feature of convent life" ... "Bede records that the nuns of Coldingham in
Northumbria wove and wore elaborate garments, adorning themselves like
brides." It looks like in this time Anglo-Saxon nuns were dressing at the
height of fashion. 
Fiona nicAoidh

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 13:41:38 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:55:29 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I think my most favorite was a set I did for an SCA Yule event.  My
husband had a white cotton tunic with a band of red velvet around the
arms, chest and hem.  My dress was a white cotton cotehardie with
stenciled holly leaves & berries painted around the hem and laced with a
green & red ribbon.  Our (at that time) infant daughter was in a white
gown with holly painted on the hem and a white cap.  And then there was
the brown satin cloak tunic trimmed with black fur for my husband and a
Norman dress for myself with black fur trim and black fur on the maunch
sleeves.  I also did a set in black cotton... a short sleeved tunic for
him trimmed in narrow silver ribbon (woven not satin) around the hem,
neck & sleeves while my back laced dress with narrow sleeves had two
rows of silver ribbon on the hem, one of silver ribbon on the neck &
sleeve hem with pearls set every 1/2" on the neck & sleeves.  The most
comfortable costume I've ever made are my flannel cotehardies.  One is
navy on the center two panels (front & back) and rose on the outer two
panels (front & back) whilst another is the same with a deep red center
and cream on the outside and the third is a butter yellow.  I was also
especially proud of the Early Tudor I made after getting home from Faire
one day (worked until two in the morning!) in a deep rosy rust bodice,
overskirt & tie-on sleeves with a darker rust underskirt... and the
appropriate corset & farthingale to go with it.  Which reminds me... I
need to go find my long veil with the beaded edges because my daughter
is in a pageant Sunday... I think I'll let her wear her trimmed mulberry
t-tunic dress rather than making something new!

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 13:45:29 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I thought of another... I really, really want to learn to make good
Victorian corsets.  Just because!

Kat
who plans to make a new Elizabethan using Drea's pattern generator...
thanks Drea!!
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costume you have made
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-Poster: Morses3@aol.com

In a message dated 12/17/1999 3:01:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
kdyer@home.com writes:

<< And then there was
 the brown satin cloak tunic trimmed with black fur for my husband >>

My curiosity is especially piqued here.....Is a "cloak tunic" a special type 
of tunic, I'm not familiar with that terminology.  And where was the fur trim 
applied? I'm also making Norman costume and am interested in fur trimming 
something, but haven't the slightest idea where to begin. On the same vein of 
questions, there are several fur trimmed tunics worn in the A & E production 
of "Ivanhoe"-are the costumes there accurate at all, or just fantasy?

Perry
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 14:05:57 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:19:39 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

Morses3@aol.com wrote:
> 
> << And then there was
>  the brown satin cloak tunic trimmed with black fur for my husband >>
> 
> My curiosity is especially piqued here.....Is a "cloak tunic" a
> special type of tunic, I'm not familiar with that terminology.  And
> where was the fur trim applied? I'm also making Norman costume and am
> interested in fur trimming something, but haven't the slightest idea
> where to begin. On the same vein of questions, there are several fur
> trimmed tunics worn in the A & E production of "Ivanhoe"-are the
> costumes there accurate at all, or just fantasy?

If you can get a copy of Holkeboer's book there is a picture under Early
15th C male tunics... her description is "three-quarters of a circle;
belted in front and allowed to hang free in the back".  If you fold a
three-quarters circle in half you then cut a slit about one-quarter of
the way from the cut edge.  Then you sew that up to the neck & belt that
part allowing the back to just float behind you.  Worn over a
under-tunic.  Anyway... as to fur... I placed it on the neckline (about
1" folded over and stitched down) and about six inches folded & sewn on
the hem.  The sleeves were fur laid over fabric from the elbow down...
both on the outside & lining the sleeve.  It is my understanding that
fur was used to line and to trim garments in colder climates from early
times.  Richer (eg more rare) fur for more expensive outfits.  Holkeboer
shows a pattern for Late 12th C female for a Pelicon... which was a
"fur-lined outer tunic, worn with or without hip belt".  If you need
something lighter you can just line part of the garment so that it gives
the appearance of being fully lined... one to two inches should do it on
bottom hems & necklines... sleeves are dependent on how loose they are. 
Mine were lined to the elbow because of their width.  Hope this info
helps!

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 14:35:01 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 15:46:10 EST
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com

There are a lot of things I'd like to make but actually DO have plans to do 
(the yellow Chinese silk traveling jacket Glen Close wears in Dangerous 
Liaisons, an 18th c quilted petticoat, and yes, the red hussy dress from GWTW 
among many other things...).  So it was hard to think of something that would 
be a true "dream" costume, something I may never actually make.  Until I saw 
this:

<< My fantasy? A Japanese noblewoman's costume >>

I would love to replicate would be a lady-in-waiting's Kosode I saw at the 
Asian Art Museum in San Francisco when they were having their Kimono exhibit 
several years ago.  It had an incredibly delicate twilight scene 
embroidered/dyed on the back - a pale silver gray sky, mist-filled it seemed, 
with cherry blossoms outlined across the shoulders.  A faint gold moon hung 
in the sky in between the branches of the cherry tree and a crane stood 
beneath the tree on the shore of a river with more cherry blossoms.  It was 
all so lovely and mysterious, but the dyeing is far beyond anything I could 
ever do.  There is a picture of it in the catalog for the exhibit, if 
anyone's really interested I can try to find the isbn.

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costume you have made
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 15:57:18 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>

it would be fun to know what the favorite thing they HAVE
> made was. Was it for yourself or someone else? What problems (or
challenges
> :-) ) did you have making it, and how would you avoid those now? What
would
> you change about it if you were doing it again?
>

My favorite is a 100%cotton broadcloth dark green Italian Ren overdress with
a v-neck and open skirt.  The undergown is a burgandy paisley-ish 100%
cotton quilting fabric.  This outfit looks good on skinny days and in the
tird trimester of pregnancy and even post-partum.  I was even able to nurse
in it.  It now over 10 years old and is still going strong.  It has survived
several Pennsics and several rained-out Emerald Jousts with Virginia dark
red clay mud.  Only now is it starting to show wear.
Andrea

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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: re: Dream costume
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:51:14 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
>completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?

Just one?  If we're dreaming, might as well dream big...I could make room in
my closet for:
* Anything from the Erte graphics with the impossible draperies, outlandish
trains & headdresses.
* Elizabethean with REAL pearls not fishscale or glass pearls and the RIGHT
jewelry.
* 1890s Worth gown with exquisite custom multi-toned velvets, the perfect
fit. fur trimmed or dripping in lace.
* A copy of Eleanor of Toledo's gown in the Galeria Costumi at the Pitti
Palace (I want mine new, in a box w/ tissue paper) with all the trimmings.
* A Poiret evening gown from 1913
* The yellow & black Thierry Mugler suit (women's haute couture) and the
panache to wear it.
* a big box full of Roger Vivier shoes

Since my boyfriend & I wear the same size (he's taller):
* The contents of Rene d'Anjou's closet.
* An armload of pourpoints.
* An Armani tuxedo.
* one or 2 things from Beau Brummel's closet
* Cosimo de Medici's suit also in the Galeria Costumi at the Pitti Palace w/
all the trimmings
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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From: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <001501bf48be$9844e020$45469fd4@cdc>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Silk Buttons
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-Poster: "Dan Fenwick" <daniel@fenwick.sparks.nv.us>

(snip)
<
All my research tells me that both of these are later developments and that
buttons at this period were pewter or silver.

Any bright ideas and references very welcome.
>

The Charles deBlois pourpooint has fabric covered buttons and is dated to
the mid 14th century (before 1364.)  Some are flat faced some are spheres.

Dan

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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

Silk fabric wrapped over a puff of wool, a lump of fabric, a nut, stone, or seed. (Wool fabric buttons were formed the same way.) Aternatively, silk twist (thick thread) was woven over a symmetrical wooden sphere in a passimenterie-like pattern. The intent in both cases was spherical, attached by a thread shank to the leading edge of the garment opening. The buttons may have flattened over time if they were formed over a puff of wool or a tiny bit of compressed rag. 

Museum of London Book on Textiles and Dress, Maireead Dunlevy Dress in Ireland address this.  I've personally seen Turkish/Ottoman caftans with the passementerie-like buttons in this period at the Topkapi Museum.  The buttons from Aisa Minor were huge, the size of giant marbles.

The fabric covered wool buttons in Ireland tended to be mid size and numerous, frequently all the way up the arm from the cuff. Silk buttons could be a lot smaller and very numerous and closely spaced.

Hope

  
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: favorite costume that you HAVE made
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>

Margo said>Most of my best work has been done for ... James and Cathleen
Myers of P.E.E.R.S. I've been making costumes for them for many years, since
we were all new to reenacting and costuming, 

I know them quite well, so it surprises me that I dont know you (or perhaps
I only know you in character).  Which outfits did you make?  Do tell!
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."

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From: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 15:39:02 -0600
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-Poster: "Amanda Reeves" <alr@io.com>


-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
> Synthetic rubies are real, they are just grown in labs rather than under
> natural conditions.  How they do this, I have no idea.  

They set up the same geological conditions in a lab that nature uses.
 
> They are indistiguishable from natural stones, unless examined under a
> microscope.

The difference is, these stones are not flawed like natural stones. They
are basically too perfect.

There are three types of  stones:
1. Natural
2. Synthetic - simulated with glass, plastic, etc
3. Man made genuine - made in a lab under the right conditions.

Dream costumes......whew, I dream of costumes all the time, but it seems
when I try to bring them into the waking state, they can't be duplicated.
Like a beautiful gold (not metallic) sheer tunic/caftan tied loosely with a
white 3"satin ribbon..........can't find the fabric or right color of gold,
don't know what was under it, but would LOVE to make it!

Amanda


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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: recreating jewelery 
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:39:26 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Kate> I have also just started a jewelery degree (pt to get me out of the
house) and want to make a fully jewelled stomacher with rubies, garnets,
pearls and diamonds

A what?  You're going to be a jeweler? Neat!  Have you recreated any
historical designs yet? Your future plan is enviable.   I took a
silversmithing class at a local college.  Fun, but the instructor has since
left.  Would love to get back in to it again, but I dont know where.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

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Subject: Re: H-COST: re: Dream costume
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> > If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
> >completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?
>
> Just one?  If we're dreaming, might as well dream big...I could make room
in
> my closet for:

Now my dream would not only include several of these costumes, but a sort of
sitting room to display them in rather than storing them in a closet. Of
course, I'd want enough display costumes to be able to change which ones
were on display.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 15:26:35 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: re: Dream costume
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:46:31 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

And of course enough mannequins to display them properly with all the
fixings (headwear, goves, etc.)

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Heather [mailto:heather@herb-lore.com]
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 2:41 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: Dream costume



-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> > If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
> >completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?
>
> Just one?  If we're dreaming, might as well dream big...I could make room
in
> my closet for:

Now my dream would not only include several of these costumes, but a sort of
sitting room to display them in rather than storing them in a closet. Of
course, I'd want enough display costumes to be able to change which ones
were on display.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 15:27:14 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: the favorite thing you HAVE made
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:46:52 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Toss up between 2... the winner for workmanship:
Amythest purple, china silk, daydress from an original 1902 Journal des
Demoiselles pattern.  Made as a bridesmaid gown.  Selfcolored applique.
It's been with me to dance weeks in Paris & in Prague.  I was an emaciated
114# when I made it.  The dress has memories both good & bad.
Euphrosnia, my dressmakers dummy, is the only one who wears it these days.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 15:30:09 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: re: Dream costume
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:49:48 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Ummm...that would be gloves...

-----Original Message-----
From: Heidi Fox [mailto:hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us]
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 1:47 PM
To: 'h-costume@indra.com'
Subject: RE: H-COST: re: Dream costume



-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

And of course enough mannequins to display them properly with all the
fixings (headwear, goves, etc.)

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Heather [mailto:heather@herb-lore.com]
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 2:41 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: re: Dream costume



-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> > If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
> >completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?
>
> Just one?  If we're dreaming, might as well dream big...I could make room
in
> my closet for:

Now my dream would not only include several of these costumes, but a sort of
sitting room to display them in rather than storing them in a closet. Of
course, I'd want enough display costumes to be able to change which ones
were on display.

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 15:32:32 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: the favorite thing you HAVE made
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.

-----Original Message-----
From: Cynthia Barnes [mailto:Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com]
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 1:47 PM
To: H-Costume (E-mail)
Subject: H-COST: the favorite thing you HAVE made



-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


Toss up between 2... the winner for workmanship:
Amythest purple, china silk, daydress from an original 1902 Journal des
Demoiselles pattern.  Made as a bridesmaid gown.  Selfcolored applique.
It's been with me to dance weeks in Paris & in Prague.  I was an emaciated
114# when I made it.  The dress has memories both good & bad.
Euphrosnia, my dressmakers dummy, is the only one who wears it these days.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
the wrong answers."

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 15:36:50 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 22:10:23 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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References: <5128969.945458880264.JavaMail.imail@patti.excite.com>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

> 
> *Pause to wipe drool from keyboard*
> 
> And there *WILL* be photos of these garment, won't there? I hope you take
> pictures of the creative process. That can be even more enlightening to
> those of us who are into such things. (We know who we are!)
> 
Glad you like the sound of them.
Over here English Heritage, one of the main organiseres of events ofte
has a redcoats through the ages event. If they can do that I don't see
why I can't do red dresses through the ages.
I will try and remember to take pictures throughout, I don't generally
bother when it's just for me, but if you are interested I will

Dawn 
> Kate
> ----
> StitchWitch
> Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
> glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930
> 
> _______________________________________________________
> Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com
>  The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
 Ïà¡±á


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 15:44:18 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 17:04:11 -0500
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

> Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.

My dressmaker's dummy is named Patience.  Y'know, Patience is a Virtue
-- she stands in the corner until I need her.

C.Virtue
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 15:48:38 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: the favorite thing you HAVE made
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:08:55 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Another good one.  I'll have to be much more creative next time (I need to
get a smaller size now).  I still haven't come up with names for the two
styrofoam heads that hold my hats but they are sorely needed.

Heidi
-----Original Message-----
From: Cynthia Virtue [mailto:cvirtue@thibault.org]
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 2:04 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: the favorite thing you HAVE made



-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

> Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.

My dressmaker's dummy is named Patience.  Y'know, Patience is a Virtue
-- she stands in the corner until I need her.

C.Virtue
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:14:58 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.
ROFL!  My boss is staring.... back to work...
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 15:57:36 1999
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From: sustre@pixelations.com
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Subject: Re: H-COST: WAY OT - altering t-shirt
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

I've sewed thin knits on my machine, lacking a serger or a place to put one!

I use a very narrow zig-zag, like 0.5 mm, with my normal stitch length. I
stretch the knit very slightly while sewing, and don't make anything that
depends on lots of stretch! You may have best luck avoiding stretching as
much as possible with a neckline, as the bits off-grain can stretch in
pretty funky ways.

It's very important to use a BRAND-NEW ballpoint needle, too. And check it
for burrs first, just in case.

-Amanda


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 15:59:35 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <5B38B8D7EED8D211997F00A0C9E57FB91DB6EC@HP-LH3>
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 15:22:36 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  Definitely not historical, I know, but my favorite was one seen at a
Codpiece
Contest - it had the head of a dragon on the end, and inflated and WIGGLED
 when the wearer squeezed one of those squeaker-bulbs.....

Liadain

> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
>
> My husband used to have a "squeaky toy" set into his.  He was young.  Much
> younger.  Before we met.  Not my fault.  And he was a Landsknecht.  Still
> not my fault.
>
> Cheers!
>
> MaggiRos
> secaram@mainsaver.com
>
> A Compendium of Common Knowledge (1558-1603)
> is at http://ren.dm.net
>
> Leap, and the net will appear.
> --Orson Wells
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Kat & Kent [SMTP:kdyer@home.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 9:09 PM
> > To: h-costume@indra.com
> > Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces
> >
> >
> > -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> >
> > M311@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > > << giant codpieces  >>
> > >
> > > This is not anything I know alot about.  I pretty much know what I
> > > have heard on here or seen in movies.  This is not my area.  I was
> > > reading a historical novel awhile back.  In it the main character
> > > asked the main women if she liked the bells that he put on his
> > > codpiece and the way the jungled when he walked.  Did they really put
> > > bells on them?
> >
> > That depends... on the region, the period, the occasion for which the
> > codpiece was made.  The style has been for 'larger' codpieces, 'smaller'
> > codpieces, flamboyant codpieces, ludicrous codpieces, subdued codpieces,
> > if you can think of it I'll lay odds that someone, somewhere, somewhen
> > has probably done it (provided it is based on period materials,
> > construction & knowledge! <wink>).
> >
> > Kat
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:00:27 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 16:13:47 -0600
From: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?
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-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>

I call the one I use Zelda (don't know where it came, I inherited it
with the dummy).
My friend calls hers Anne-Marie.  Wierd is when you catch yourself
talking about them
with other people, like they were people. :)

Nic

Cynthia Barnes wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
> 
> >Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.
> ROFL!  My boss is staring.... back to work...
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:01:00 1999
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From: Jim Dew <dewj@eou.edu>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Tablet Woven Edging
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:18:14 -0800
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-Poster: Jim Dew <dewj@eou.edu>

I think what is meant by tablet woven edging is the technique whereby one 
leaves weft threads long on one side, which can then be used for the warp 
on a new piece. Is this what the questioner meant? If so, I have just 
written up a fairly good description for a term paper, if you want to 
e-mail me for the description, at dewm@eou.edu I call this a tablet woven 
header, so maybe it's not the same thing.
Mitzy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:06:24 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:27:06 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

My Headless Sue is wearing a Tudor costume right now, so a friend walked in
and exclaimed "it's Anne Boleyn!"

Okay, I know this is the beginning of another OT thread, but I have a
feeling that naming and talking about (or to) our dressmaker mannequins, as
if they are family, is something most of us have in common!

-----Original Message-----
From: Nic Deplazes [mailto:deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com]
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 2:14 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?



-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>

I call the one I use Zelda (don't know where it came, I inherited it
with the dummy).
My friend calls hers Anne-Marie.  Wierd is when you catch yourself
talking about them
with other people, like they were people. :)

Nic

Cynthia Barnes wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
> 
> >Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.
> ROFL!  My boss is staring.... back to work...
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:09:44 1999
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From: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:33:37 -0800
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-Poster: "Broneske" <unicorn@softcom.net>

My dressmaker dummy is named "Alma Mobley" after the character in "Ghost
Story".  I used to dress it up for Halloween every year and for some reason
started calling it Alma Mobley (you have to say in a scary, sort of
Disney-Haunted-Mansion kind of way)

                                                /
Joan Broneske                      /(-\
unicorn@softcom.net     ,__' / '-'
                                 /()__)
                                //    \\
                                ' '     ' '
-----Original Message-----
From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: H-Costume (E-mail) <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 2:15 PM
Subject: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?


>
>-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
>
>
>>Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.
>ROFL!  My boss is staring.... back to work...
>--cin
>Cynthia Barnes
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:28:53 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

It's my red velveteen cotehardie with handmade buttons, 18 up each sleeve.  The
buttons are red velveteen with little gold flowers embroidered on the top of
each one from the Museum of London Textiles book.  The sleeve plackets and
neckline are hand embroidered in a vine and leaf pattern with gold ping-ling
silk, freshwater pearls as buds and gold glass seed bead speckled.  The sleeve
cuffs turn up for eating and are lined with golden linen.   The gold linen is
embroidered with the same pattern as the outside in deep red ping ling silk with
garnets for buds and the gold glass sead beads.  The buttonholes and eyelets are
hand sewn with red silk buttonhole twist, the eyelets having metal rings inside
for strength.  The gown is lined in golden cotton so that when I lift the hem of
the velvet dress you see the flash of color.  I made a black velveteen
reticulated headress that is a band around the forehead and half egg shapes over
the ears.  This is couched with gold cord and embellished with freshwater pearls
within the trellis work.  The belt was a gold metal link belt which has now been
replaced by the leather and cut brass belt I showed you all a couple weeks ago.
I have an emerald green velvet cloak that I wear over it.   I have pointed toed
mule slippers that are charcoal grey leather with a bronze leather trim that is
a border with little 14th century leaves cutouts appliqued on (think illuminated
manuscript leaves with three petals).  I *LOVE* this outfit, it is currently on
my dress dummy for Christmas.  (I decorate my dummy for the seasons, the black
velveteen cotehardie, my second favorite, I use for Hallowenn)

The only problem with this dress is that I am single and live alone and since it
laces up the back I can't get in or out of by myself.  So, I can only wear it
indoors and when there are other ladies around (or a man if I ever get lucky).
;->  The black velveteen laces up the front.  Being a turtle on my back on the
bed crying frustration one time was enough to teach me a lesson.  *GGGG*

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:10:59 1999
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From: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>
To: "'h-costume-digest@indra.com'" <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Info requested on a Dress Cutting Set
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 17:17:37 -0500
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-Poster: "Fairchild, Connie E." <Connie.Fairchild@alcoa.com>

On another news group a gentlemen was asking if anyone knew anything about a
"Standard Square Inch Tailor System of Dress Cutting" set manufacutred by
the standard Cutting Co., Masonic Temple, Chicago in 1900.  It belonged to
the mother of an 87 year old lady who offered to sell it to him.

He said he wanted to get her full value because she could really use the
money.  He would like to buy it, but had no idea of what it's value would
be, and if it was very valuable he would sell it for her.  Has anyone heard
of this system or have any idea how much it would be worth or where he could
turn to find out?  I will forward your information on to him.

It's certainly been a busy newsgroup!  I seemed to have missed getting
Digest V4 #80 today.  Could someone send that to me please.  Thank you for
any assistance.

Connie Fairchild
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:14:14 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

Mines name is Metilda.  And she is also a diet aid.  We got my wife's new
cover on her so she is a copy of my wife.  Wife has dropped 60 lbs. so far.
These days I spend most of my time taking in clothes rather than making
costumes.  Not that I am complaining, I am very proud of all the hard work
she has done.

Yours Stephen

"Oh well, the best laid plans of mice."
"And men."
"Men?  What have men got to do with it!"


-----Original Message-----
From: Heidi Fox [mailto:hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us]
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 2:27 PM
To: 'h-costume@indra.com'
Subject: RE: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?



-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

My Headless Sue is wearing a Tudor costume right now, so a friend walked in
and exclaimed "it's Anne Boleyn!"

Okay, I know this is the beginning of another OT thread, but I have a
feeling that naming and talking about (or to) our dressmaker mannequins, as
if they are family, is something most of us have in common!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:15:11 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 22:55:21 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Dawn wrote:
> 
> I don't really have a favourite item, often because of deadlines etc I
> feel with a couple more days, a more trusting client etc etc an outfit
> would be stunning, and as I make my own stuff in such a rush as the need
> arises they are not always what I planned either, which is why I intend
> to make such an effort on my mantua. I want it to be a wow showpiece for
> my benefit to remind me why I'm doing this for a living.
> 
> However
> 
> My proudest costuming moment was when I saw my first troop of Napoleonic
> uniforms gallop out onto a field. Gosh those boys looked pretty.
> 
> My most successful frock (in terms of male attention) was also my
> simplest. A scarlet silk 1670's undress gown copied from a peter lely
> portrait. The most shapeless thing I have ever made, just a t shape
> pleated onto the shoulders and held in place with a belt and diamante
> buttons  But combined with fluffy white voluminous linen shift and a
> mass of auburn (a wig) curls with a scarlet ribbon a la mdme fontage, it
> was a success and I wasn't even wearing stays so had no cleavage.
> 
> My greatest achievement in terms of speed and difficulty was a mae west
> style dress in velvet for the male drag artist to wear in panto. I got
> the fabric at 9pm friday and he was wearing it on stage at 2pm the next
> day and I slept.
> 
> My most elegant is a black velvet regency gown with a train, chiffon
> ruffle around the neck edge and jet beading on the bodice and sleeves
> which are full length. I look at my most ladylike in this and 2 " taller
> 
I suppose my most favourite are my wedding dress samples because I just
play with them. The fabrics speak to me and I have no agenda and whilst
it would be useful to sell them I don't really care as they all fit me.

dawn 
> Dawn

-- 
 Ïà¡±á

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:16:13 1999
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

Well, it had to happen sometime...

I just found the G Street Fabrics online store at 
http://www.gstfabrics.com/   . They have a special on voided velvet for
8.40 a yard.

Enjoy,

Drea 
who is glad her visa is already at its limit


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:16:14 1999
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From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Cynthia Barnes wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
> 
> Kate> I have also just started a jewelery degree (pt to get me out of the
> house) and want to make a fully jewelled stomacher with rubies, garnets,
> pearls and diamonds
> 
> A what?  You're going to be a jeweler? Neat!

I just decided that as I was now also making wedding dresses it would be
nice to offer the whole package. I have done bits over the years buying
findings and mounting them up myself and use real stones on all my
sample gowns, they actually work out as cheap as plastic in the long
run, but thought I'd go and be taught properly. It would also give me a
break from sewing for a couple of hours a week.   Have you recreated any
> historical designs yet?

Not yet. I start stone setting after christmas and have so far just
learned piercing and roller texturing. Thes are ideal for early jewellry
and as several of my wedding designs are grecian I plan to make a couple
of diadems using these methods. I think my tutor is rather alarmed at my
ambition to recreate such advanced pieces but I like challenging goals 
>Your future plan is enviable.   I took a
> silversmithing class at a local college.  Fun, but the instructor has since
> left.  Would love to get back in to it again, but I dont know where.

Unfortunately this tutor doesn't teach casting so will have to find a
new class for that, but I can have a go at enamelling and etching which
will also be useful.
It helps that his nibs is a metalworker so I have a fully equiped
workshop at my disposal for 'homework' as I am one of those people who
likes to learn the basics and then goes and plays under her own steam,
which sometimes doesn't go down too well

Dawn
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> 408.570.1023
> Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
> Phoenix Technologies
> 411 E. Plumeria Dr.
> San Jose CA 95134
> "I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give
> the wrong answers."
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
 Ïà¡±á


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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>Margo said>Most of my best work has been done for ... James and Cathleen
>Myers of P.E.E.R.S. I've been making costumes for them for many years, since
>we were all new to reenacting and costuming, 
>
>I know them quite well, so it surprises me that I dont know you (or perhaps
>I only know you in character).  Which outfits did you make?  Do tell!

Let's see, I made most (all?)  of their rennaissance costumes, including my
masterwork, James' red leather hunt suit.  Cathleen's black taffeta
underskirt and sleeves with the emerald and pearl starbursts are favorites
of mine.  A lot of Victorians;  the amethest taffeta with two bodices, the
green velvet gown, the blue one with the black sequined lace.  Her ivory
brocade Regency. Her black Regency.  One of these days, when I have a free
afternoon (hah!) I'll add the Myers Gallery to my website.  

I haven't made for them in a few years, because they've been busy getting
Peers off the ground, and I've been busy being a mother.  For the same
reason, I haven't been active in reenacting for around 6 years, so that's
probably why you don't know me.  And now, of course, I'm going to be too
busy with getting the pattern business started...but I will be going to
Costumecons and Costume College, so we'll probably meet eventually.

Margo



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:19:03 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I have an aquaintance who's a jeweler, and who's getting interested in Ren
Faires and costuming.  I'm trying to persuade her to get into making replica
Elizabethan jewelry;  just this thread shows that there's a market.

Margo

(who is sick to death of christmas tree garland ropes of pearls and cast
silver dragons on court garb)


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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: the favorite thing you HAVE made
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 01:52 PM 12/17/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.
>

I have three dressform/mannequins being delivered soon.  I'm planning to
call them Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard, and Charles the First.

(All of whom were beheaded, for those who don't recall their English History.)

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:22:52 1999
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tablet Woven Edging
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:41:25 -0800
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>

Both the woven trim added on the edge, and the woven header can be tablet
(card) weaving.  I think the edging would refer to the narrow strip sewn on
the edge as it is woven.  I have seen a number of references to the header,
but not describing it as edging, since it is an integral part of the
fabric.  

I would be interested in reading your description, as I recently tried to
describe this over the telephone to a friend.  

Islyle


----------
> From: Jim Dew <dewj@eou.edu>
> To: 'h-costume-digest@indra.com'
> Subject: H-COST: Tablet Woven Edging
> Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 2:18 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: Jim Dew <dewj@eou.edu>
> 
> I think what is meant by tablet woven edging is the technique whereby one

> leaves weft threads long on one side, which can then be used for the warp

> on a new piece. Is this what the questioner meant? If so, I have just 
> written up a fairly good description for a term paper, if you want to 
> e-mail me for the description, at dewm@eou.edu I call this a tablet woven

> header, so maybe it's not the same thing.
> Mitzy
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:26:55 1999
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Subject: H-COST: ...So what's your (sewing machine's) name?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

What about sewing machines?  My two Vikings are named Freya And Frigga.
Frigga is the serger..called that because things sewn on her don't fray, of
course.  My two Singers are Beverly Sews and Lucianno, and my White is named
E.B, after the author of Charlotte's Web.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:30:35 1999
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From: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-favourite costume 
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-Poster: "Marsha S. McLean" <msmclean@interlog.com>

My favourite would also be one of my most recent, A late 16th c. court gown
made from a heavily brocaded silk saree in a rich, rich, rich peacock blue:

Plain Peacock blue bodice, square neck.  HUGE puffy sleeves, slashed to
reveal peacock and hot pink shot silk, dotted with large puffs of gold net
centered with large pink glass pearls.  The stomacher is plain peacock silk
with criss-crossing puffs of gold mesh dotted at the crossing points with
three pearls in a row.  Before the next time I wear it, it will have little
gold medallioms sewn on in the middle of the squares between the puffs.  The
skirt is the saree, peacock silk satin brocaded with gold, with a 3" border
at the top of the skirt and an 8" border at the bottom of the skirt.  Over
this goes a jerkin made of the "palloo" of the sari - heavier, similar
brocade.  It has pickadils at the waist and shoulders and puffs of the same
gold mesh with white pearls where the pickadils join the body.  This is
lined with the same peacock/hot pink shot silk.

Silk shopping anyone? <g>

Marsha/Madinia

>From: Morses3@aol.com
>Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 13:05:02 EST
>Subject: H-COST: Favorite Costume you have made
>
>- -Poster: Morses3@aol.com
>
>Greetings all,
>
>Now that I'm starting to get out of delurk mode after a year of reading and 
>learning a lot here, I thought since everyone is talking about what their 
>dream costume is, it would be fun to know what the favorite thing they HAVE 
>made was. Was it for yourself or someone else? What problems (or challenges 
>:-) ) did you have making it, and how would you avoid those now? What would 
>you change about it if you were doing it again?
>
>
 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:30:46 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: ...So what's your (sewing machine's) name?
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Since mine has been throwing fits lately, I can't repeat what I've been
calling mine!  I should probably be nicer to it and give it a proper name.
I rather like your names, and all seem so appropriate!

Heidi

-----Original Message-----
From: Margo Anderson [mailto:margo@directcon.net]
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 2:46 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: ...So what's your (sewing machine's) name?



-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

What about sewing machines?  My two Vikings are named Freya And Frigga.
Frigga is the serger..called that because things sewn on her don't fray, of
course.  My two Singers are Beverly Sews and Lucianno, and my White is named
E.B, after the author of Charlotte's Web.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 16:34:28 1999
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From: Meagn Maguire 335-2467 <Meagn.Maguire@kp.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
To: /R=internet/R=indra.com/U=h-costume/FFN=h-costume/@mr.nw.kp.org
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-Poster: Meagn Maguire 335-2467 <Meagn.Maguire@kp.org>

Delurking to answer this one...


The period I do the most work in is 1560s/70s, and I love it.  However, I'll go
back to my first love, which is mid-1850s crinolines.  I'd want a frothy
confection of a ball gown.  Something in white and pale pink silk taffeta with
little rosebud and ivy garnishes, with my hair done up and lots of ridiculous
ringlets and curls.  This was entirely appropriate for me at the age I first
imagined it(14), now I'd look like Miss Havisham in it at 41.  

Actually, a version of this gown does exist, at least in pattern form.  I've
seen two ACW pattern vendors with a version of it - in Heidi's Patterns it's
called 'Sonjia' (or something very like that)in the AlterYears catalog.  I also
*think* Harriet's TCS patterns had a version of it.  Hmmm.  I wonder if a more
mature version of that gown could be accomplished.  Has anyone here, in this
great repository of knowledge, seen this pattern, in pattern form or done up? 
Any opinion on either of the pattern lines? (No, they aren't listed at the GBACG
pattern review).

Wondering if what's necessary to do pretty good 1570s 
translates into doing pretty good 1850s,

Meagn (TudorLdy@aol.com when I'm not in my office)

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From: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: (Slightly OT) Sewing Diapers
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 18:14:39 -0500
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-Poster: "Kerrie Lyons" <kerrielyons@tellurian.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0075_01BF48BA.95034680
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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MabelHello dear list!

I'm finishing up baby's layette in preparation for the wee one's arrival =
in March and I was wondering if anyone has ever tried making your own =
prefolded cloth diapers?  I haven't been able to find anything I really =
like!  With my other little ones I used Sears brand.  They were =
pre-folded, super-soft tightly woven gauze (birdseye is for the birds!) =
and had some sort of natural fibre spongy centres.  They were tough to =
find when my current baby (who just turned 5!)  was in diapers, and they =
seem to have completely disappeared now. =20

I was thinking of experimenting with a wool core, middle layers of gauze =
and a top layer of soft cotton flannel.  Think it'll hold up? .... if =
you've tackled the project and have any tips please let me know. =3D)  =
I'd also love leads on where to buy the fabrics for the project, sources =
for "green" fabrics would be super-lovely!

Feel free to e-mail me off list (but technically this is "on topic" =
since babies have historically needed something to cover their little =
bottoms, right? <g>)=20

Thank you all!!
Kerrie





------=_NextPart_000_0075_01BF48BA.95034680
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Mabel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"">
<DIV align=3Dleft>Hello dear list!</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>I'm finishing up baby's layette in preparation for the =
wee one's=20
arrival in March and I was wondering if anyone has ever tried making =
your own=20
prefolded cloth diapers?&nbsp; I haven't been able to find anything I =
really=20
like!&nbsp; With my other little&nbsp;ones I used Sears brand.&nbsp; =
They were=20
pre-folded, super-soft tightly woven gauze (birdseye is for the birds!) =
and had=20
some sort of natural fibre spongy centres.&nbsp; They were tough to find =
when my=20
current baby (who just turned 5!)  was in diapers, and they seem to have =

completely disappeared now.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>I was thinking of experimenting with a wool =
core,&nbsp;middle=20
layers of&nbsp;gauze and a top layer of soft cotton flannel.&nbsp; Think =
it'll=20
hold up? .... if you've tackled the project and have any tips please let =
me=20
know. =3D)&nbsp; I'd also love leads on where to buy the fabrics for the =
project,=20
sources for "green" fabrics would be super-lovely!</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>Feel free to e-mail me off list (but technically this =
<EM>is=20
"</EM>on topic" since babies have historically needed <EM>something =
</EM>to=20
cover their little bottoms, right? &lt;g&gt;) </DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>Thank you all!!</DIV>
<DIV align=3Dleft>Kerrie</DIV>
<P></P>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<P></P>
<DIV align=3Dleft>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 17:03:56 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 18:24:18 -0500 (EST)
From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: MzScahlett@aol.com
cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Corrected URL for G street fabrics site
In-Reply-To: <0.588fa8ce.258c1d42@aol.com>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Huh!  It didn't work for me either this time.

Well,  http://www.gstreetfabrics.com/ works as well-I just checked it.

Sorry for the misinformation,

Drea

On Fri, 17 Dec 1999 MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/17/1999 2:35:21 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
> aleed@dnaco.net writes:
> 
> << I just found the G Street Fabrics online store at 
>  http://www.gstfabrics.com/   . They have a special on voided velvet for
>  8.40 a yard.
>   Enjoy, Drea  who is glad her visa is already at its limit >>
> 
> 
> Ok Drea, well, my fabric card is NOT at it's limit and the evil bad store is 
> teasing me and won't let me IN!!!  and I wanna play spend the money games!! 
> grrr...
> 
> That translates to "can you please check the url?"
> 
> help! 
> 
> angela
> 
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes 
> Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
> "What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both 
> wind and tide."
> King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
> QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
> FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
> 
> 
> 
> 

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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Corrected URL for G street fabrics site
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 15:34:09 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Thank you! (I think...)  Love that Liberty of London, too...

-----Original Message-----
From: aleed [mailto:aleed@dnaco.net]
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 3:24 PM
To: MzScahlett@aol.com
Cc: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Corrected URL for G street fabrics site



-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Huh!  It didn't work for me either this time.

Well,  http://www.gstreetfabrics.com/ works as well-I just checked it.

Sorry for the misinformation,

Drea

On Fri, 17 Dec 1999 MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/17/1999 2:35:21 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
> aleed@dnaco.net writes:
> 
> << I just found the G Street Fabrics online store at 
>  http://www.gstfabrics.com/   . They have a special on voided velvet for
>  8.40 a yard.
>   Enjoy, Drea  who is glad her visa is already at its limit >>
> 
> 
> Ok Drea, well, my fabric card is NOT at it's limit and the evil bad store
is 
> teasing me and won't let me IN!!!  and I wanna play spend the money
games!! 
> grrr...
> 
> That translates to "can you please check the url?"
> 
> help! 
> 
> angela
> 
> +++++
> Angela F. Lazear
> Cabbage Rose Costumes 
> Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
> "What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both

> wind and tide."
> King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
> QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
> FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
> 
> 
> 
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 17:13:22 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Corrected URL for G street fabrics site
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 12/17/1999 3:24:55 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
aleed@dnaco.net writes:

<< Huh!  It didn't work for me either this time.
 
 Well,  http://www.gstreetfabrics.com/ works as well-I just checked it.
  >>
Bless you, got in-- happy now.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
"Let me take you a buttonhole lower."
Love's Labours Lost, V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 17:16:35 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 15:33:53 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Yes, please!  I'll be grateful for more leads and information.

Thanks!

Gia/Giacinta

-----Original Message-----
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 6:25 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces


>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Gia Gavino-Gattshall wrote:
>> 
>> Hi!  I've been looking *forever* for information on Codpieces, other
>> than the Codpiece web site and as many protrait & pictures I can find!
>> 
>> Could you list your sources, pretty please with chocolate on top (see,
>> I used chocolate instead of sugar...*g*).
>
>Gosh! I wish I could... I adore chocolate!  The information came from a
>class given by a Laurel in the SCA some time ago.  I do know a costuming
>Laurel of over 25 years in the art who does primarily 15thC who might be
>able to help.  Should I forward the post?
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 17:22:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 18:41:22 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: ...So what's your (sewing machine's) name?
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

I'm not sure mine has a name,  I know what I call it though <G>  it's not 
some thing I can repeat on line!!!

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 17:33:18 1999
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From: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
To: "H-Costume (E-mail)" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: G street fabrics - rockville MD
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 15:53:03 -0800
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-Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>


>Well,  http://www.gstreetfabrics.com/ works as well-I just checked it.
...and is having a big 25% off sale thru the 23rd.  Dont buy it all before I
get there, you naughty boys & girls.
Have a great holiday & see you next year...
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
408.570.1023
Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
Phoenix Technologies
411 E. Plumeria Dr.
San Jose CA 95134
"I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
give the wrong answers."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 17:45:42 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 01:02:48 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

About the codpieces, i read that in Denmark the priests in the churches
was furious about the fashion with codpieces, they thundered with curses
about them, but it didnt help anything, the fashion continued.
I have read that they could have the size of a childs head in some
cases.

Bjarne in Copenhagen.(Hafnia)

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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Subject: H-COST: dummy names
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 99 16:06:03 -0800
x-sender: gdecamp@shell12.ba.best.com
x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0, March 15, 1997
From: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>
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-Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>


Mine's Ermengarde.

Why? Well, Mildred was taken.

gkd

>Okay, I know this is the beginning of another OT thread, but I have a
>feeling that naming and talking about (or to) our dressmaker mannequins, as
>if they are family, is something most of us have in common!




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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com,
        "'h-costume@indra.com'"
	 <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: dummy names
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 16:12:24 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Mind was originally, out of the box, so uhm buxom (much mroe so than I) that
we called her Tits McGee.  Now, poor thing, her tits are all squashed under
the cover and she's starting to feel neglected.  LOL I've been writing way
too much to get any sewing done.  I had to get back on the list because I
missed the company!  You can't get this kind of conversation just
everywhere, ya know!  

I'm just a few thousand words away from completion, though, and while my
agent is going over the ms., I have to keep my hands off it!  And Fairetime
is coming up, and nothing fits. So hmm, maybe I ought to get my pathetic
little Sears special into the shop for a cleanup.  

Cheers!

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Gail K. DeCamp[SMTP:gdecamp@best.com]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Friday, December 17, 1999 4:06 PM
> To: 	h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: dummy names
> 
> 
> -Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>
> 
> 
> Mine's Ermengarde.
> 
> Why? Well, Mildred was taken.
> 
> gkd
> 
> >Okay, I know this is the beginning of another OT thread, but I have a
> >feeling that naming and talking about (or to) our dressmaker mannequins,
> as
> >if they are family, is something most of us have in common!
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 17:53:13 1999
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From: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 21:53:47 +1100
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-Poster: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>

Mine would have to be a Roman Imperial period tunica - the ones that are
basically a tube of fabric. However... it would be made of fine silk, with
gold thread woven through it. There was a similar cloth found in a
sarcophagus in Londinivm recently. Of course, a palla of similar beauty, but
contrasting colour, with a pair of cicada brooches to hold the tunica at the
collarbones would finish off the costume.

Glenda.

>Colleen McDonald Hinrichs wrote:
>>
>> Here's a question for the list:
>>
>> If you had the time, money, inclination, to make a costume that is
completely outside of your current interests, what would it be?  Or maybe a
better way of phrasing it - what types of costumes do you absolutely admire
on others, but will probably never get around to making for yourself?
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 18:13:14 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 10:34:03 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

My dream costume would be a full Court Gown - from about 1740-1750.  If I
had the time and money - it would be of full silk overgown (hand embroidered
of course), with a full hand-quilted underskirt.  I would also hand-make all
the lace.

<sigh>

So many dreams - so little money and time.

Of course - my main stuff is Medieval - and in Brisbane I have no idea where
I would wear my dream costume.  Nice to dream though

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 18:31:51 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

No Darla - you should not have to apologise for your beliefs.

But - you and the other poster should probably continue your "discussion"
privately and not embarras the rest of us with it.

Or agree to disagree and let it go.  Please - for all our sakes.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

>

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:49:21 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Mannequin Names (was RE: H-COST: the favorite thing you HAVE made)
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.

Oh, good! I'm not the only one who names her mannequins! The antique on that
I found in my Great-Grandmother's attic I named Jazelia. The one that used
to be my size (she shrank, honest!) earned the name Stubborn Bess. And the
one that fits me best now is called Fluffy. (Which she, and I, are. ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  I will try and remember to take pictures throughout, I don't generally
>  bother when it's just for me, but if you are interested I will

Please do! And, if it isn't too much trouble, some of the others on this
list might consider it as well. When making something complex or tricky, it
helps to have a record of how you did that. Even for the simple techniques,
it is sometimes easier to whip out a photo to SHOW someone how it was done,
rather than try to explain it. Case in point, the recent discussion on how
organ pleating can be done. I still don't quite have that pictured solidly
in my mind (not that I'm asking, just was curious), and a photo of the
process could be so enlightening.

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: ...So what's your (sewing machine's) name?
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  Since mine has been throwing fits lately, I can't repeat what I've been
>  calling mine!  I should probably be nicer to it and give it a proper
name.
>  I rather like your names, and all seem so appropriate!

*Grin*
I used to have a car like that . . .
As to my sewing machine, the current name is Thumper. With the floor of my
1918 house being slightly uneven, when I really get going on the seams,
there is this little backbeat of 'tmp . . . tmp . . . tmptmptmptmptmptmp . .
.tmp . . .'

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 15:58:48 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Santa Cloths
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-id: <385A5DB2.419FCA77@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings good gentles,

Hope wrote:

> The original Santa lived in Asia Minor.  Date?  about 3-6th Century
> I think,  but don't quote me.  I wonder what HE wore!

St. Nicholas dates from the 4th century, when he was the Bishop of Myra in
Lycia, south-western Turkey. Though he was one of the most universally
venerated saints in East and West, almost nothing is known of his life.

Obviously, the most popular result of his cult is the institution of Santa
Claus (Claus being a short form of Nicholas). This was ultimately based on his
patronage of children. The custom in the Low Countries of giving children
presents on his feast day was brought to North America by the Dutch
Protestants of New Amsterdam. There it was united with Nordic folklore of a
magician who both punished naughty children and rewarded good ones with presents.

Too much info again...

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

Drea, what is voided velvet, please?   I nevah evah hoid a it!!!

Darla
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 21:08:36 EST
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-Poster: AlbraKat@aol.com

Part of the reason why we love you, Deitmar:)
albra
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 20:24:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 18:39:51 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 10:32 AM 12/17/1999 -0800, you wrote: -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA
<SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
>Perhaps a veil was presented to a nun upon taking holy orders, and that veil
>(as opposed to the one she used to wear) matched all the other nuns'; that
>is, although their clothes would remain the same, this particular veil would
>be the mark of membership, the habit before there was a habit. Just a
speculative >thought.  Cheers! MaggiRos
                 Maybe that's why the various orders began using different
folds/starching for their veils, too... hmmm... thank you for the
thoughts...Carol / Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 20:32:35 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Zelda!!?
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 18:53:53 -0800
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Great name!!  But my feet are killing me from all that standing . . .  :)

Zelda (yes, that is my real name!)  
-----Original Message-----
From: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: December 17, 1999 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?


>
>-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>
>
>I call the one I use Zelda (don't know where it came, I inherited it
>with the dummy).
>My friend calls hers Anne-Marie.  Wierd is when you catch yourself
>talking about them
>with other people, like they were people. :)
>
>Nic


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From: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Actors in period costume....
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 22:30:56 -0500
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-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>

Greetings!

I've just finished watching "Shakespeare in Love" again and it brings up a
fun question or two:

1) Which actor(s) (either sex) do you think "do" historic costume the best?

2) Which actor(s) would you enjoy seeing in historic costume the most?
(Specify the period--it should be a period they haven't done before).....

I'll post my own answers once I think about them a little more.....

Susan


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 21:15:36 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 19:33:54 -0800
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: H-COST: shahtoosh
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

R.L. Shep wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
> 
> I agree with this and would also like to add that there is some kind of
> shawl that costs many $$$ that is supposedly the rage amongst those who have
> too much money. It is being made from the hair of an endangered Tibetan goat
> - or whatever - and the animal has to be killed to get the hair.  DON'T BUY
> THEM - Please.

Robb --

It's called Shahtoosh. A web search yielded several informative
sites. Before it became fashionable, the local people collected
the tummy fur from the bushes when the antelope shed. Now it's
fashionable, the animals are shot as they're too hard to catch.

And what will they do when they're all gone?

Susan F.


-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 21:16:38 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 22:36:36 -0500
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>

Another way to find out is to ask the author if she had come across such
an item (w/ bells) in her research.  Lots of authors do a lot, and are
quite willing to share what they know.  Some of them have a bit of fun
mixing what they know is right/true with what isn't (eg. a lot of
romance authors know that the Pantheon was a made up Regency period
shopping area...actually the invention dates to about that time,
too...but some of those same authors will "use" it anyway).

I'm pretty sure I remember reading that book, too.  And since I haven't
read many in that time period lately, I'm guessing that that was either
the one written by the Renn. Faire lover who works at the Folger, or one
that was donating the profits from the book to breast cancer research
(wish they had put that up on a note at the store...probably would have
sold more of what was a decent book).  Anyway, you can contact authors
easily either through a given address (e-mail or PO Box are often given
in the book itself) or through the publisher...either via their website
or from their contact information.  From what I've heard from the 3
historical romance authors (all popular) that I've talked or typed to,
most romance authors like to get letters :-)

Oh, BTW, if it was the former, I seem to remember that the "hero" made a
point of being an amusing, easily dismissed person...since it made
whatever his real objectives were much easier.

-Elisabeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 21:22:40 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

My first "dummy" is Madelaine, so named by her previous owner.
No.2 is Henrique, he's sort of AC-DC. Betty was acquired at
the same time (she was custom-made by Singer for someone named
Elsie, it says inside. Wonder when Singer was doing this little
service?) She's just a papier mache torso with a beige jersey
covering.
  No. 4 was spotted in a thrift-shop window -- I screeched to
a halt knowing she probably wasn't for sale. Shops always keep
them for display, but for a mere $25 she became mine. I wanted
to name her Mitzi or something, but she insisted her name was Emma.

Henrique is a male display dummy and not very steady on his
feet. I haven't been able to find a better stand for him and
would love to hear any suggestions.

Susan F.
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 21:28:57 1999
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From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

If you all can stand one more message from me ..

This is more fantasy than historical, but I seem to
have lost the fantasy list. For a possible theatrical
costume, I want to create a fantasy/medieval Chinese
general armor costume out of CD's. Like overlapping
plates.

I've saved up the ones they send in the mail and
the ones they've thrown out where I work, but it
seems that someone once mentioned a source for used
or defective CD's.  Does anyone have a source?? I'll
need a lot of them. (yes I'm asking everyone I know)

thanks,

Susan Fatemi
-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 21:42:21 1999
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From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

MAGGIE SECARA wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
> 
> Perhaps a veil was presented to a nun upon taking holy orders, and that veil

Uh, sorry to intrude, but nuns do not take holy orders. That
is what makes a priest a priest. In the Catholic and Orthodox
churches, this sacrament is still limited to men.

> (as opposed to the one she used to wear) matched all the other nuns'; that
> is, although their clothes would remain the same, this particular veil would
> be the mark of membership, the habit before there was a habit.

I admit I don't know about the period in question, but in more
recent times at least, when a woman "takes the veil" it's like
a wedding ceremony. She wears a wedding dress and a wedding veil,
she's the "bride of Christ". At the ceremony, this worldly garb
is exchanged for the nun's habit, including a novice's veil.
She gets the nun's veil (usually a different color) when she makes
her final profession. (At least until Vatican II. God knows what
they do now.)

I would think that even in a society where every woman wears
a veil, the nun's veil could be a symbolic "putting on" of
a new life.  This is all speculation of course. There must
be *some* kind of documentation of religious orders in the
dark ages even though their real heyday was "medieval".

Susan
(seriously lapsed but loved stories about nuns when I was a kid)

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 21:42:29 1999
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-Poster: KKlocko@aol.com

>I want to create a fantasy/medieval Chinese
>  general armor costume out of CD's. Like overlapping
>  plates. [snip] but it
>  seems that someone once mentioned a source for used
>  or defective CD's.  

You could try your local library or school.  At our Library, we used to have 
a ton of old CD's from our cd-rom databases.  It's often really hard for 
Librarians to throw stuff out (low budgets...) and they might have a huge 
stash that they could be persuaded to get rid of.

Of course, some libraries might be wary of giving CD's out because of their 
licenses on the databases (they might be afraid that you'd use the old 
databases), but if you can convince them that you're going to punch nice big 
holes in each one that would probably reassure them.

Or you could also see if there is a database producer in your town. A call 
might lead you to all the defective ones you could use...

         --Kathy Klocko
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 21:42:45 1999
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From: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
To: "costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: late 13th c. dress
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-Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>

I was just perusing one of my old Art History books, looking for inspiration, when I came across something that I found interesting.  It's a picture of an overgown, with short sleeves and slits in the skirt from hem to hip, which allow the longsleeved underdress to show.  The view is only the front, so I can only guess that it is the same in the back.  The whole thing looks very simple to do, yet with great possibilities. I think it would look especially terrific on the dance floor.
The painting is of St. Clare and was done in 1283. She was born in Assisi and  followed St. Francis, so I'm assuming that this was an Italian fashion.   Has anyone ever seen/done something like this before?  I'd really like more info on this one, such as the name of the gown, which class of people might have worn it, and what time-range does it cover. 
Hey, I've already got the perfect fabric combo in the stash, waiting for something new to make!

TIA

Linda

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 21:52:27 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 23:11:46 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Karen wrote:

<< Since most habits that I have see have later medieval details (
 not proof but an indication) I'm not sure what a Merovingian monk would
 have looked like either! Perhaps if you could share the actual quote with
 us, we could get a better idea of how the language was used.

Almost everything I have is English translations, so I am at the moment 
unable to provide original quotes.  I will, however, have a look and see what 
I can turn up.

<< I would
 still tend towards the stripped down version of normal clothing idea for
 any member of a religious order during this period. 

That seems to be a common feeling ... and I can not say I agree or disagree 
with it without actual evidence.  I do have some of the Laporte references 
that are on Thora's bibliography, but I was hoping to find other refs.

<<Have you tried asking
 folks at your local Catholic diocese?  >>

Yes, I have.  So far to no avail, alas.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 21:53:58 1999
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From: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
To: "historic costuming" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Actors in period costume....
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 20:14:50 -0800
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-Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>

Hello!

a)  it's a toss up between John Malkovitch and Sean Connery for
"post-Roman".  They seem to be able to pull of anything historic I've seen
them in (but I haven't seen all their movies). Charlton Heston and Yul
Brynner for anything "toga-ish".  And Richard Chamberlain for the post- 1700
roles (but not in a kimono).  Katharine Hepburn seemed to be able to carry
off any era splendidly, as did Bette Davis.  I'd love to see Judi Densch
(sp?) starring in a feature film about ER I.

b)  Johnny Depp as a Spanish diplomat during the period where Henry VIII was
pressing the Pope for an annulment from Catharine.  Just saw Sleepy Hollow,
and was reminded how well he plays intellectual roles.

Zelda


-----Original Message-----
From: Susan Carroll-Clark <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: December 17, 1999 7:27 PM
Subject: H-COST: Actors in period costume....


>
>-Poster: "Susan Carroll-Clark" <nicolaa@columbus.rr.com>
>
>Greetings!
>
>I've just finished watching "Shakespeare in Love" again and it brings up a
>fun question or two:
>
>1) Which actor(s) (either sex) do you think "do" historic costume the best?
>
>2) Which actor(s) would you enjoy seeing in historic costume the most?
>(Specify the period--it should be a period they haven't done before).....
>
>I'll post my own answers once I think about them a little more.....
>
>Susan
>



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 21:57:13 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 14:19:08 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

It was my understanding that whilst during 5-8th C veils were worn
generally - it was as a fashion statement - and they did not necessarily
cover or hide the hair - often they drew attention to it.

In contrast, a Nun's veil was designed and intended to completely cover the
hair - and t make her (I suppose) less of a woman of the world - and more a
bride of Christ.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

>

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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Zelda asked:
>I have to ask - just what are the essential differences between a cocktail
dress and a >dinner dress?

Cocktail parties did not really come into being until after WW1, so the
"Cocktail Dress" did not exist as such before then.

Traditionally, a dinner dress was generally more formal than an afternoon or
morning gown.  It usually had a lower neckline, and short sleeves - and was
made of an "evening" fabric.    Jewellery was also worn with it.  The Dinner
Dress could then be worn to a less-formal ball/gathering or to the theatre
or a  concert.

A cocktail dress was rather more revealing - and was less formal.  It was
generally a bit "flashier" and was designed to then be able to go
nightclubbing in - rather than to a ball or concernt.

In later times, the cocktail dress was usually knee length or above, and a
dinner dress is usually ankle length (according to my mother who used to
make them for a living - and who was a debutante and had to know these
things).

>In fact, is there a date when dresses for distinctive social occasions
became the norm?

There have always been clothing/dresses for distinctive social occastions!
Traditionally, there were always different clothing worn as "court"
clothing, and the biggie that women have is the ballgown.  Probably a more
accurate question would be"  Is there a date when dresses for distinctive
social occastions were not the norm?

Hope that this helps

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 22:00:56 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 14:19:10 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

I have more support for my "DD" bust in a corset than I do in a normal bra.

I must admit that I would wear a proper corset every day - if I had the
second person to lace me in!

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 22:16:48 1999
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To: h-needlework list <h-needlework@ansteorra.org>,
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Subject: H-COST: medieval needle-lace buttons?
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

In Nancy Nehring's "50 Heirloom Buttons to Make" (really neat book) she
states:

Although virtually unseen on modern garmets, needle-lace buttons have a
long history.  During the Middle Ages, after the establishment of
artisan guilds -- associations of merchants or craftsmen with similar
skills or trades -- button makers belonged to the same guild as lace
makers, and naturally, lace-making techniques were incorporated into
buttons.

This would be great if true.  I've been wanting to do needle-lace, but
was discouraged by the time involved.  Buttons would be small enough to
be gratifying.  Any sources?  patterns (not necessarily "pattern-books",
but portraits, etc would do)?

Thanks,
--Charlene

--
You don't stop laughing because you grow old; you grow old because you
stop laughing.




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Subject: Re: H-COST: Bad dye problem - Please help
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 03:10 PM 12/16/99 EST, MzScahlett@aol.com wrote:
>Dear List,
>
>I just heard from a friend that a burgundy/fuschia gay nineties costume 
>(stored in the dark) has begun to spot fade/bleach.  I believe the fabric was 
>mostly polyester.  
>
>Is there any way to re-dye this gown to salvage it? I'm told it has orange 
>fade spots.
>
>This was a costume I made some three years ago, but anything you can do to 
>help me help her would be appreciated.
>
>angela

I don't know of any way to restore a polyester or acetate fabric if it has
begun to change color; commercial dyes won't help. Unfortunately dyestuffs
used on polyester or acetates are often unstable and break down over time,
whether or not they are exposed to light or anything else. I have had to
throw out fairly large pieces of acetate taffeta that turned odd colors on
the roll in my dark closet. Now I stick to drapery fabric (designed to be
resistent to light) or fully natural fiber fabrics (which *can* be re-dyed
if necessary).

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 23:26:55 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite Costume you have made
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

In a message dated 12/17/1999 3:46:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
ahgideon@earthlink.net writes:

> t would be fun to know what the favorite thing they HAVE
>  > made was. Was it for yourself or someone else? What problems (or
>  challenges
>  > :-) ) did you have making it, and how would you avoid those now? What
>  would
>  > you change about it if you were doing it again?
>  >
I guess I will weigh in with one of my favorites.  I made my husband a 
morning gown and waistcoat for our Christmas open house at Riversdale, an 
early Federal period house, last year.  It is based on the circa 1820 one 
pictured in the Brooklyn Museum's For Men Only.  Inquiries to the museum went 
unanswered (I have since learned that they don't have anyone doing costume 
anymore--don't know if they still have the stuff in storage), so all I had to 
go on was a side view of the morning gown laid out, a front view of the 
waistcoat, and the cover picture of the outfit on a mannequin.  The original 
was silk brocade, but I couldn't find any I liked (or could afford--it would 
have required at least 8 yards.)  I used one of the Waverly drapery fabrics, 
a rayon and linen blend, in a chintz-looking print.  The morning gown has a 
shawl collar and the waistcoat a notched one.  The gown is constructed much 
like a coat of the period, unlike the relatively unconstructed banyan of the 
18th century.  There are side back pleats in the morning gown.  It is 
double-breasted, with a matching belt.  Buttons are self-covered.  One of the 
questions I had was whether the gown had a pleat or a vent down the center 
back.  I went for a pleat, but have since found out, from the former costume 
curator, that it had a vent.  I guess I could change it, but I don't think 
so, at this point.   That is the only thing I would have done differently, if 
I had known.  It is typical of the frustration one has working from 
portraits, fashion plates, or photos of extant garments.  One very seldom 
gets a back view.  I figured I was fortunate to at least have the side view 
of the gown.

My husband, bless his heart, was a little reluctant to wear the outfit at 
first.  I was lamenting this to my boss, the director of the museum, and he 
said, "Does the word effeminate come to mind?"  But, as the folks at 
Williamsburg (who made an 18th century chintz banyan) agree, real men WOULD 
wear chintz.  My husband has since worn it several times and seems okay with 
it.  He wears the ensemble with a shirt and cravat, white knit pantaloons, 
and brown leather mules (by a company that has been making them since 1804!)

Ann Wass
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 21:52:11 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



"Jones, D." wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Jones, D." <djones@protocare.com>
> 
> <Carolyn wrote>
> 18th Century Court dress - not the Pannier type, but the gonzo Marie
> Antoinette, miles of silver tissue, 400 pounds of fabric jobbers. <snipped>
> 
> A Marie Antoinette court is my fantasy, too. One w/ big hair--a ship or
> pastoral scene perhaps? <g>
> 
> Happy Holidays to all.
> 
> Ride Forever!

Oh, the ship of course - in full sail!

Carolyn
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 00:54:31 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bad dye problem - Please help
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

I concur.  Polyester does not take home dyes well, and, even if it did, 
dyeing over something that is faded in spots will usually give you a very 
uneven dye job.  Try a good art supply store for markers in a wide variety of 
colors.
Ann Wass
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 00:52:03 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: h-costume-favourite costume 
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

In a message dated 12/17/1999 5:51:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
msmclean@interlog.com writes:

> "palloo" of the sari
Thank you.  I always wondered what that part of the saree was called.

Ann Wass
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 01:00:13 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: codpieces
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/17/99 9:37:06 PM Central Standard Time, cozit@home.com 
writes:

<< I'm pretty sure I remember reading that book, too. >>

Now I can't find the book.  I don't remember the author either.  I read a lot 
of books so I sometimes have a hard time remembering all the titles and 
authors names. I remember it was where this man pays for this women and then 
deceides to turn her into a lady.  His friends bet him that he couldn't do it 
and he liked a challanged.  Oh, and then in some short period of time he had 
to present her to the King.  They are at a fair somewhere.  
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 23:44:59 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: cds??
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/17/99 10:03:05 PM Central Standard Time, 
KKlocko@aol.com writes:

<< Like overlapping
 >  plates. [snip] but it
 >  seems that someone once mentioned a source for used
 >  or defective CD's.   >>

The joke around here is that we should do some dress or outfit with cd's like 
the credit card dress a few years ago.  We seem to get lots of cd's free in 
the mail, aol and such.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 17 23:48:10 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 22:06:49 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>

My brother in law is a professional jewellry designer and a really good
one.  ONe of these days, I'm going to scrape together the money to have
him make me a period looking Pelican-Laurel medallion in the Renaissance
style with a huge baroque pearl as the pelican body, ruby blood
droplets, and a chain of Laurel leaves.  <sigh>  I've seen some
beautiful work he's done so I know this won't be out of his skill level,
it's just out of my pocket book level for now (one of the things he was
working on when I last saw him was a frog pin made from a baroque pearl
which looked like it had eyes from its imperfections).

I keep telling myself I don't have time for another hobby...

Carolyn
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Morses3@aol.com wrote:
 
> Now that I'm starting to get out of delurk mode after a year of reading and
> learning a lot here, I thought since everyone is talking about what their
> dream costume is, it would be fun to know what the favorite thing they HAVE
> made was. Was it for yourself or someone else? What problems (or challenges
> :-) ) did you have making it, and how would you avoid those now? What would
> you change about it if you were doing it again?

It's a toss up between 2 costumes:

1) My green/pale yellow bustle dress, which I made for MissMela's
costuming class a couple of years ago.  It was made from an antique sari
and *yards* of mint green and pale yellow silk dupioni, and almost as
many yards of green/yellow upholstery trim.  Nothing on it I would
change - it came out perfect IMHO.  Look for it at Costume College 2000
-Janet's talked me into being in the fashion show.

2) My recreation of Raphael's "Joanne of Aragon" portrait gown.  I had
to make this dress for the one reason that Joanne and I look a lot
alike.  It was red in the painting, but I made it out of plum
velveteen.  The only thing I would change is I would have washed the
gold silk satin lining of the sleeves before I sewed it together - it
shrank a little and I need to fix the sleeves now.  That'll teach me.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 01:38:56 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 01:56:06 -0600
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

Do you live in a large diocese? I live here in Chicago (can you say huge
diocese!) and as Merovingian is one of my obscure areas of interest, I
could ask around here to see if I have any better luck in this area. Is
there a particular order that this woman is going into? It might help to
have specifics. I have no idea what orders were in existence back then. 

Karen

On Fri, 17 Dec 1999 23:11:46 EST SNSpies@aol.com writes:
> <<Have you tried asking
>  folks at your local Catholic diocese?  >>
> 
> Yes, I have.  So far to no avail, alas.
> 
> Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 01:55:20 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: codpieces
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 03:10:53 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

There's a Codpiece webiste??

I'd like to know more about these also.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Gia Gavino-Gattshall
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 6:34 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces



-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Yes, please!  I'll be grateful for more leads and information.

Thanks!

Gia/Giacinta

-----Original Message-----
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 6:25 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces


>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>Gia Gavino-Gattshall wrote:
>> 
>> Hi!  I've been looking *forever* for information on Codpieces, other
>> than the Codpiece web site and as many protrait & pictures I can find!
>> 
>> Could you list your sources, pretty please with chocolate on top (see,
>> I used chocolate instead of sugar...*g*).
>
>Gosh! I wish I could... I adore chocolate!  The information came from a
>class given by a Laurel in the SCA some time ago.  I do know a costuming
>Laurel of over 25 years in the art who does primarily 15thC who might be
>able to help.  Should I forward the post?
>
>Kat
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 02:27:02 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 03:31:02 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

I admit that is one I'd like to try especially after seeing the scene from
Howard's End where a lady is disrobing before going to bed. Amazing how much
that corset pushed up and showed off curves on a not so slim lady. I am also
one of those type of ladies.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----
-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I thought of another... I really, really want to learn to make good
Victorian corsets.  Just because!

Kat
who plans to make a new Elizabethan using Drea's pattern generator...
thanks Drea!!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 02:27:21 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Favorite Costume you have made
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 03:41:24 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

My favorite was done mostly by hand - a 16th cent German Ren sleeveless coat
that went over a chemise and skirt. I loved it more by adding embroidered
17" wingspan Japanese Cranes on the hips and 6" ones near the bottom hem.

Kassandra


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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: cds??
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 03:41:35 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

You could ask friends that get computer magazines. I know I get one to three
CDs a month for free internet signups. I have a stack now that I've been
trying to figure out something for. Hate to throw things out. Would you be
interested?

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of KKlocko@aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 11:02 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: cds??



-Poster: KKlocko@aol.com

>I want to create a fantasy/medieval Chinese
>  general armor costume out of CD's. Like overlapping
>  plates. [snip] but it
>  seems that someone once mentioned a source for used
>  or defective CD's.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 04:28:49 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com

Dear Angela,

Just to indulge yourself, you should read, "Memoirs of A Geisha", by William 
Golden.  I think you would enjoy this very much.  It gave me a lot of 
information regarding Kimono & the lifestyle of Geisha I had no idea about.

Cheers!
Pasha
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 05:31:00 1999
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Silk buttons
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Sally - I don't know about the 14th and 15th centuries, but a few years ago a Sealed Knot friend of mine showed me how to make buttons from thread *without* the supporting ring of Dorset buttons. I've never actually got round to trying it for myself, though.
 You use a cardboard disc with nicks cut all round the circumference. To the best of my recollection, you stretch threads across radially, looping them round the projections between the nicks, then use a needle to take a thread round spirally, passing it round each radial thread. When the disc is full, you remove the cardboard and pull the circle into a sphere round a lump of wadding. (hope this makes sense.) Could this be the kind of thing your silkwomen were making?

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 06:09:58 1999
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Dream costume?
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Sometime next spring I hope to be asking for advice on - not quite my dream costume, as I haven't the skill, but a dress for a period I love that is outside the one I normally re-enact. Our early 17th century music group may be branching out into doing some Regency period gigs, and as I've always loved that style I hope to make myself a suitable costume. I'm too old now for a simple muslin chemise-dress, though my figure is still slight, and anyway I will have to hide my short hair under a cap. Cue for research into what Miss Austen herself might have worn?

BTW, on the subject of actors in historical costume; my vote would go to Colin Firth as Mr. Darcy; he (or his costume designer and hairdresser) hit off the look perfectly! (For non-Jane Austen fans, I'm talking about the BBC's "Pride and Prejudice" of a few years back).

Over the Christmas holiday I plan to start on a sleeveless 17th century bodice for hot days (the only sleeveless one I have is not authentic enough for meeting the public at close quarters in) but the Regency one may be my next project.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 07:09:03 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< I live here in Chicago (can you say huge
 diocese!) and as Merovingian is one of my obscure areas of interest, I
 could ask around here to see if I have any better luck in this area. Is
 there a particular order that this woman is going into? >>

Thanks so much, Karen, for the kind offer.  I think if you go Benedictine, 
you'd be safe.  Thanks again.

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 09:36:38 1999
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-Poster: Karen R Bergquist <seamstrix@juno.com>

It may take me a few days to get thru to anyone (weekend, holidays, etc.)
but I will give it a look-see on Monday.


Karen

On Sat, 18 Dec 1999 08:28:08 EST SNSpies@aol.com writes:
> 
> -Poster: SNSpies@aol.com
> 
> << I live here in Chicago (can you say huge
>  diocese!) and as Merovingian is one of my obscure areas of 
> interest, I
>  could ask around here to see if I have any better luck in this 
> area. Is
>  there a particular order that this woman is going into? >>
> 
> Thanks so much, Karen, for the kind offer.  I think if you go 
> Benedictine, 
> you'd be safe.  Thanks again.
> 
> Nancy
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 09:36:34 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Evil Bad Online Store
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 07:52:19 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Voided velvet is a beautiful fabric; I have a (*period* design too!) 1 yd
length and that's only because it was about $70/yd.

Voided velvet is where the pile 'disappears' and a spectactular design
created because the extra warp is woven into the ground of the material.
This technique is very different than the 'burnt' (usually chemically done)
or pressed (Like when you take a stamp and press the design into the
velvet), although *sometimes* they do look alike.

There are examples of voided velvet in period portraits, the most famous is
the gown Eleanore of Toledo wears.  It has been repeatedly stated that the
fabric the gown is made of is a brocaded voidedvelvet with looped pile.
There are other examples but I can't remember them, right now.

Gia/Giacinta
-----Original Message-----
From: DDunker@aol.com <DDunker@aol.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: H-COST: Evil Bad Online Store


>
>-Poster: DDunker@aol.com
>
>Drea, what is voided velvet, please?   I nevah evah hoid a it!!!
>
>Darla
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 09:51:25 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 10:05:22 -0600
From: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Zelda!!?
References: <00fe01bf4903$201a7e80$03000004@van1282>
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-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>

Yes, but we took good care to see there were no more headaches ;).  This 
is completely OT but hysterically funny.

I once had to clean out my sewing room for a year (we had an exchange
student)
Zelda was residing in our bedroom,  my SO woke up in the middle of night
and 
saw this person standing there. He called out 'Who's there, what do you
want?'. 
He was really freaked and woke me up. I look, see this headless body and
told him
to chill, it was just Zelda.  He says 'Oh, okay.' and rolls over.  I
reached out
to put my arm around him, the minute my hand touched him he flew out of
bed 
screaming. Zelda was banished to the attic for the duration, unless she
was being
helpful and then she had to stay in the dining room. The whole thing
still makes me 
chuckle, sadist that I am ;).

Nic

The Rogue wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "The Rogue" <the_rogue@imag.net>
> 
> Great name!!  But my feet are killing me from all that standing . . .  :)
> 
> Zelda (yes, that is my real name!)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>
> To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
> Date: December 17, 1999 2:20 PM
> Subject: Re: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?
> 
> >
> >-Poster: Nic Deplazes <deplazes@polar.polarcomm.com>
> >
> >I call the one I use Zelda (don't know where it came, I inherited it
> >with the dummy).
> >My friend calls hers Anne-Marie.  Wierd is when you catch yourself
> >talking about them
> >with other people, like they were people. :)
> >
> >Nic
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 10:02:36 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Gary Stephens <info@5rivers.org>
Subject: H-COST: Green Curtain dress and Red Gown 
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <info@5rivers.org>

	For any who are interested, Pegee of Williamsburg has the license
to reproduce the patterns for the Gone With the Wind gowns, a line of
patterns I will be carrying in January, 2000.

Lorina

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage & fine
hand-sewn, embroidered garments http://www.5rivers.org e-mail:
info@5rivers.org




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 10:02:52 1999
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <info@5rivers.org>

	Well, for me it would be an Italian Renaissance gown in black silk,
embroidered with 24k wire, linen camica, rust silk under skirt, rust, gold
embroidered and black ground bodice beneath, linen camica, appropriate
corseting, bias-cut and embroidered silk stockings, etc., etc. All
handsewn. But, of course, I'm not far off making this now.

	For me costuming has become an art form and life-work, and I'm
happily pursuing the pieces I've always wanted to make. For instance, just
finished what I call an 'art' scarf, which is based on an image from a
Scandinavian 6th century tomb - basically a hunting scene quite stylized,
all in black, red and 24k with pearls. In the new year this scarf will be
up for sale on our website and perhaps on the E-bay.

	At the moment I'm working on another 'dream' piece - a Restoration
aristrocratic waistcoat in blue silk. The embroidery pattern is adapted
from one created by Charles Germain St. Aubin for the wedding garments of
the Dauphin in 1747. It's a repeated motif of eloganted leaves and berries,
about 3 1/2" wide, around the neckline, down the front and across the
bottom, as well as across the pocket flaps. This is being embroidered in
gold bullion and silk. When it's off the frame it will be backed and lined
with fine linen and hand-sewn together, then up for sale on the website.

Lorina

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage & fine
hand-sewn, embroidered garments http://www.5rivers.org e-mail:
info@5rivers.org




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 10:03:07 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Uniquely You Dress forms 30% off
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

As if the G Street Fabrics post wasn't enough.  ;>

I just called Jo-anns, found out by chance that they're having a 30% sale
on some stuff, including the Uniquely You dress forms--those are the ones
with the foam bodies, and the fabric shell that you fit to your body shape
and then zip onto the dress form.

I don't know how widespread or long-lasting this sale is...the saleslady
didn't know.  But here in Dayton Ohio, at least, you can pick them up for
@ $120 this weekend.

Off to add to my harem (Gertrude & Glenda are getting lonely),

Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 10:03:58 1999
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From: John T Dillon <dillon@world.std.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces
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-Poster: John T Dillon <dillon@world.std.com>


Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion.
Several functional codpieces and construction tips.

I have made several from this book and while the instructions on how
to make the codpieces for the Sture family are confusing, once you 
pause and realize that they are integral and functional they are quite 
simple.

John



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 10:04:17 1999
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From: Richard Harper <Walsung@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Favorite Costume
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-Poster: Richard Harper <Walsung@excite.com>


In a message dated 12/17/1999 10:07:36 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
Morses3@aol.com writes: 

<< I thought since everyone is talking about what their 
dream costume is, it would be fun to know what the favorite thing they HAVE 
made was. Was it for yourself or someone else? >> 

I think the favorite costume I've ever made (and it was for myself) was an
Elizabethan men's suit, the doublet and matching stuffed sleeves made of a
brick-colored heavy cotton, couched with metallic cord in a diagonal
cross-hatched pattern at about 1" intervals, and then 4mm white pearls were
sewn in the resulting spaces.  The seams and tabs (armscye and waist) were
piped with a heavy gold metallic cord.  The sleeves were tied in with
brick-colored and tawny grosgrain ribbons, tipped with gold aglets.  The
trunkhose were made of a chocolate-colored cotton velvet, high and stuffed
very full, and cartridge-pleated at the waist and legbands, with a codpiece.
It was worn with a large white, lace-tipped ruff and white hosen.

I've done lots of suits, but for some reason this turned out to be my
favorite.  I've only worn it once, but should wear it again soon before it
no longer fits (I'm Weight Watching myself into a stupor).  With the
skin-tight fit, hand-padstitching and piping, altering it would be a horror
show I'm not sure I'm ready for.

Richard





_______________________________________________________
Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
 The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 10:05:06 1999
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From: capriest@cs.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman)
Subject: H-COST: Re: Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: capriest@cs.vassar.edu (Carolyn Priest-Dorman)

Nancy/Ingvild asked:

>I would like to ask if anyone has pictures/information or knows where I might 
>look for pictures/informatio about pre-Carolingian (i.e. Merovingian, 5th-8th 
>century C.E.) Frankish clothing worn by nuns.

See the sources (particularly the two books) by LaPorte cited in my textile
bibliography:

     http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/textilebiblio.html

LaPorte's work with the Merovingian textile relics at Chelles includes some
related information about the clothing habits of the (often highly ranked)
nuns of the period.  You'll also find an extant "grande robe," tunics, and
tablet-woven trim woven by some of the abbesses there.

Carolyn Priest-Dorman              Þóra Sharptooth
capriest @ cs. vassar. edu         Frostahlid, Austmork
      http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/thora.html



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 10:06:57 1999
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Gary Stephens <info@5rivers.org>
Subject: H-COST: Re: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <info@5rivers.org>

	Paisley indeed originated in India. When trade with India began to
explode in England in the mid to late 1800s, so did fascination with things
Eastern. In an attempt to curtail the cost of the shawls which were being
imported, and to regain market lost to imports, the English textile
industry attempted to copy the designs. What resulted is the highly
stylized paisleys we know today. In fact, the best of these designs came
from, you guessed it, Paisley, England.

	If you would like a general overview of paisley and the shawls that
came as a result of fascination with the design, you might look up a wee
Shire publication on shawls. It is not a definitive work by any means, but
does give one an introduction as well as a good bibliography.

Lorina

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage & fine
hand-sewn, embroidered garments http://www.5rivers.org e-mail:
info@5rivers.org




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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 10:07:57 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <nicole@kipar.org>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <nicole@kipar.org>



> -Poster: "Glenda Robinson" <glendar@compassnet.com.au>

> As late 12th century isn't my period at the moment, I can't remember if the
> tablet-woven edging is OK, but I have seen it on 11th century reenactors,
> and I'm sure I've seen it on 12th and 13th century reenactors too. There are
> surely others on the list who could tell us of it's authenticity for the
> period.

Tablet woven braids have been made and worn as decoration on 
both male and female garments for an incredible length of time. In 
the non-christian germanic and thus Anglo-saxon period they seem 
to have been the only decoration on textiles. NO embroidery like is 
known from later period was used then. If at all, only a few 
decorative stitches and only to decorate the actual seam, to hold it 
together and in this process to decorate it with different coloured 
wool threads being used for the different stitches like blanket stitch 
and tailor's stitch on one seam.
Absolutely beautiful braids were found, for example, in the 
Scandinvian 4th century male grave in Hoegom (Migration period) 
on the tunic. But never ever was braid found across the chest of a 
tunic, but I can only speak about up to the 9th/10th century Anglo-
Saxon, but only at the wrist, the hems and the collar opening.
P.S. The beautiful late Saxon embroidery some talked about, which 
was found on the Regia website, was made by my boyfriend's 
mother. I wore the dress once on an event...  ;-) 
beeeeaaauuuuutiful!!! Rust coloured reddish silk and embroidery 
also at the sleeves (wrists) with genuine pearls and gold threads 
here and there in a tree of life design. Strangely enough, she is not 
going to part with these hundreds of hours of work... *grins*

Nicole

************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 11:08:11 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cds??
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 10:36:09 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>

We had a guy here in our Barony that made an attempt at CD armor.  He used
hard drive disks which are a little smaller that audio CDs. Unfortunately
that is just what it looked like, CDs.  

Kathlene

----------
> From: M311@aol.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: cds??
> Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 11:03 PM
> 
> 
> -Poster: M311@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 12/17/99 10:03:05 PM Central Standard Time, 
> KKlocko@aol.com writes:
> 
> << Like overlapping
>  >  plates. [snip] but it
>  >  seems that someone once mentioned a source for used
>  >  or defective CD's.   >>
> 
> The joke around here is that we should do some dress or outfit with cd's
like 
> the credit card dress a few years ago.  We seem to get lots of cd's free
in 
> the mail, aol and such.
> Kelly
> m311@aol.com
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 12:26:22 -0500
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Great story!

I have one that was highly amusing -- at least to me:

We've been moving out of our apartment and into a house, and taking our
time, so small loads would go down to the car, seemingly randomly.  It
came time to take Patience (the dummy) down; I could carry her, but I
decided to put her on the hand-truck and roll her down.  So there she
was, in her covering, but no clothes per se, lying tits-up at an angle
on the dolly in the elevator, and who should want to share the elevator
but a teenage boy.  He was probably around 15.  He walked in, said hi,
looked at what was on the dolly, turned really red, and turned and faced
the door.  I imagine he was dying of embarrassment, poor thing.

--
JANUARY 1, 1000 :  This was the historic day that humanity celebrated
the dawn of our current millennium. The occasion was marked by feasting,
dancing, and the public beheading of a whiny, tedious group of people
who would not stop insisting that, technically, the new millennium did
not begin until January 1, 1001.   -- Dave Barry (I guess I'll be
beheaded soon - cv)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 11:10:57 1999
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: clothing mistakes
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 12:28:29 -0500
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>

	Alright-this is it for me, but what you wrote in reply was truly
mind-opening for me. True-it is human nature to be rude, arrogant, and
slighting. But I thought that in this society that sort of behaivor was
suppressed or reserved for the very young or very stupid. What is the point
of manners, if mocking someone is acceptable? What is the point of any code
of conduct if rudeness is acceptable? Honestly, I thought children were
taught how to behave for a reason. Or maybe I am archaic and ignorant of
modern society. Why not call someone petty and juvenile if it's ok to laugh,
stare, and turn up your nose at them?
			Kristen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
Behalf Of Dietmar
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 12:27 PM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: clothing mistakes



-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

I've tried to resist, but I'm going to have to jump in on this. If you don't
want to hear any more on the subject, please feel free to delete this right
now. (I've deliberately left no attribution on the quote.)

> What if those in our society who choose to wear what you consider
> unusual fashions were to stare and turn up their nose at YOU when
> you considered yourself dressed normally and decently?

They would be perfectly within their rights. You have the right to wear what
you wish. We reserve the right to make fun of you for it. ;-) (Same thing
goes
for tattoos and piercings.)

> They would be rude of course, and so would you if you did the same
> to them.

No, they would be human. People have various reactions to each other.
Laughing, staring or turning up one's nose are normal reactions, not being
rude. For all I know, people turn their nose up at me on a daily basis.
That's
their right, and I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

> Would you stare and turn up your nose at a person with a disability?
> Of course not.

Don't be so sure. I've got an acquaintance that was driving his motorcycle
down a dirt road filled with ruts at 3 am after a long night of heavy
drinking. As might be expected, he lost control of the bike and as a result
he's short a spleen. A year later he shattered his hip riding up the side of
a
ravine and dropping 40' down the other side. He walks with a limp due to his
own stupidity and I think he's worthy of my sarcastic humor. ;-)

> The fact that someone is different should not open them up to
> ridicule and rebuke, unless they are doing something that is
> harmful to YOU. That is my point.

Let's face it, you are welcome to wear whatever you like or change your body
in any way that you please (within the law of course). But, none of these
things make you immune to other people forming an opinion about it. Putting
a
chip on your shoulder is asking to have it knocked off. Most of the time, I
won't bother taking the bait.

> And by the way, I am not offended for myself, but offended that
> rational and mature people could be so petty and juvenile.

Rational and mature people don't call others petty and juvenile. If others
are
offended, you're better off letting them defend themselves.

Regards,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 11:20:37 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>I would think that even in a society where every woman wears
>a veil, the nun's veil could be a symbolic "putting on" of
>a new life.  

Couldn't this relate to the fact that women becoming nuns were (supposed to
be) virgins, and therefore did not wear veils in their daily life?  


Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 11:34:52 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

. In fact, the best of these designs came
>from, you guessed it, Paisley, England.
>
>
I believe that Paisley is actually in Scotland.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 11:34:57 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Uniquely You Dress forms 30% off
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>I just called Jo-anns, found out by chance that they're having a 30% sale
>on some stuff, including the Uniquely You dress forms--those are the ones
>with the foam bodies, and the fabric shell that you fit to your body shape
>and then zip onto the dress form.
>
Although if you're not in a hurry, you might want to wait untill they go to
50% off, which they do several times a year. They just had this sale
Thanksgiving weekend, so it may be a while till they do it again.

I bought two--and I get to pick them up today!

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 11:55:33 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

In a message dated 12/18/99 9:55:21 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< 
 I believe that Paisley is actually in Scotland.
 
 Margo
  >>
No, Paisley was back in the sixties, on my favorite A-line dress with bell 
bottom sleeves.. <eg>

Darla
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E63784D2F94@scl-exch.phoenix.com>
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>



>
> -Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
>
>
> >Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.
> ROFL!  My boss is staring.... back to work...
> --cin

Did that come from Mythology?  Euphrosyne is one of Zeus's daughters, part
of an uncommon 3 graces.

Michelle

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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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MabelKerri,
  I tried to send mail off list but, you email address was no where to =
be seen. It just read Kerrie Lyon everywhere.  Email me off list and =
well discuss this further. Mandrake@Celtic.com=20
   Taget was, maybe still is, carrying one of the popular brands in an =
'overnight' version.  It was a heavier weave, like that of the Sears =
store brand diapers. I had the same problem finding them, so I bought =
them everytime I found opened packages, discounted, or just sometimes =
because I had the money at the time. For this reason, I have hung on to =
all of them. I do have a couple of unopened packages from buying the =
things a little too zealously. Do you need them?

Michelle

  Hello dear list!

  I'm finishing up baby's layette in preparation for the wee one's =
arrival in March and I was wondering if anyone has ever tried making =
your own prefolded cloth diapers?  I haven't been able to find anything =
I really like!  With my other little ones I used Sears brand.  They were =
pre-folded, super-soft tightly woven gauze (birdseye is for the birds!) =
and had some sort of natural fibre spongy centres.  They were tough to =
find when my current baby (who just turned 5!) was in diapers, and they =
seem to have completely disappeared now. =20
  Kerrie

------=_NextPart_000_00A0_01BF4948.E21EB740
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Mabel</TITLE>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY background=3D"" bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Kerri,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp; I tried to send mail off list but, you email =
address=20
was no where to be seen. It just read Kerrie Lyon everywhere.&nbsp; =
Email me off=20
list and well discuss this further. <A=20
href=3D"mailto:Mandrake@Celtic.com">Mandrake@Celtic.com</A> =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; Taget was, maybe still is, carrying one =
of the=20
popular brands in an 'overnight' version.&nbsp; It was a heavier weave, =
like=20
that of the Sears store brand diapers. I had the same problem finding =
them, so I=20
bought them everytime I found opened packages, discounted, or just =
sometimes=20
because I had the money at the time. For this reason, I have hung on to =
all of=20
them. I do have a couple of unopened packages from buying the things a =
little=20
too zealously. Do you need them?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Michelle</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV align=3Dleft>Hello dear list!</DIV>
  <DIV align=3Dleft>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV align=3Dleft>I'm finishing up baby's layette in preparation for =
the wee=20
  one's arrival in March and I was wondering if anyone has ever tried =
making=20
  your own prefolded cloth diapers?&nbsp; I haven't been able to find =
anything I=20
  really like!&nbsp; With my other little&nbsp;ones I used Sears =
brand.&nbsp;=20
  They were pre-folded, super-soft tightly woven gauze (birdseye is for =
the=20
  birds!) and had some sort of natural fibre spongy centres.&nbsp; They =
were=20
  tough to find when my current baby (who just turned 5!) was in =
diapers, and=20
  they seem to have completely disappeared now.&nbsp; </DIV>
  <DIV align=3Dleft>Kerrie</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00A0_01BF4948.E21EB740--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 12:52:21 1999
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To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <00fe01bf4903$201a7e80$03000004@van1282>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Zelda!!?
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 11:30:18 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

> Great name!!  But my feet are killing me from all that standing . . .  :)
> 
> Zelda (yes, that is my real name!)  

At least you are a mannequin, instead of a dummy. ;)

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 13:07:59 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <21927181.945470961825.JavaMail.imail@patti.excite.com> <385B034A.3CEB@netwiz.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cds??
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 11:41:45 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>


> I've saved up the ones they send in the mail and
> the ones they've thrown out where I work, but it
> seems that someone once mentioned a source for used
> or defective CD's.  Does anyone have a source?? I'll
> need a lot of them. (yes I'm asking everyone I know)
> Susan Fatemi

Gee, if everyone on the list saved and sent you the ones they get from AOL,
Earthlink, etc., you would probably have enough on them in about 3 days! ;)
I have a few around here, I could send you.
  What about asking the post office?  Those cd's go out, mass
production-like and if they don't have a recipient in the end, I think they
get thrown into a dead mail category. In other words, if you know someone
that works at the post office, you can probably get them to dig them out for
you.

Michelle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 14:42:32 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Re:paisley
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-Poster: Gary Stephens <info@5rivers.org>

	Sorry, Margo! Oops. You're absolutely right. Paisley, Renfrewshire,
Scotland. Gawd, this memory of mine!

Lorina

--------------------------------------
 Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage & fine
hand-sewn, embroidered garments http://www.5rivers.org e-mail:
info@5rivers.org


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 14:44:13 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 16:04:06 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: History of Paisley?
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

In a message dated 12/18/1999 11:27:26 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
info@5rivers.org writes:

> Paisley, England.
Well, Paisley SCOTLAND, to be exact.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 16:06:59 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 14:23:20 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Yes, I have that one.

What I'm trying to find is any reference to codpieces of the period that
were *parallel* to the ground at least 12 to 24 inches long.  I have an
acquaintance that *swears* that she has seen primary documentation for this;
and she quite vocal about sharing this information with as many newbies/
novices costumers.  Since I don't like to nay say someone without
thouroughly researching things, *myself*, I have not said anything.

I have been trying since early1997 to find any supporting documentation.  I
would even be interested in information regarding satrical caricatures and
any thing the chruch or Stubbs or any of his ilk would have said at the
time.

And the Website URL for the codpiece I don't right now; but I think you can
access it via Penny's web page.

Gia/Giacinta

-----Original Message-----
From: John T Dillon <dillon@world.std.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces


>
>-Poster: John T Dillon <dillon@world.std.com>
>
>
>Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion.
>Several functional codpieces and construction tips.
>
>I have made several from this book and while the instructions on how
>to make the codpieces for the Sture family are confusing, once you
>pause and realize that they are integral and functional they are quite
>simple.
>
>John
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 16:35:54 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 14:54:14 -0800
From: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
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Subject: H-COST: geisha
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

Mayfair13a@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Mayfair13a@aol.com
> 
> Dear Angela,
> 
> Just to indulge yourself, you should read, "Memoirs of A Geisha", by William
> Golden.  I think you would enjoy this very much.  It gave me a lot of
> information regarding Kimono & the lifestyle of Geisha I had no idea about.
> 

Even better, IMHO is Liza Dalby's "Geisha". She's the same person
who wrote the Kimono book and actually lived as a Geisha in Kyoto
while doing her Anthro Ph.D.  It's a later time period of course,
but "real" not fiction. A rather bad movie was made from it starring
Pam Dawber called American Geisha.
(I have a bibliography of Japanese costume and textiles on my
website, below. No charge!:->)

Susan Fatemi

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 16:45:24 1999
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-Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>

K & J Hopkins wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
> 
> We had a guy here in our Barony that made an attempt at CD armor.  He used
> hard drive disks which are a little smaller that audio CDs. Unfortunately
> that is just what it looked like, CDs.
> 
Think I'll give it a try with what I have. It's for theatrical
purposes only -- I was planning to attach them to a background
fabric, which may also make some difference in the appearance.

Susan

-- 
Oh Noh! Kimonos!
susanf@netwiz.net
http://www.netwiz.net/~susanf
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 17:10:59 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 18:30:04 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces
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-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com

In a message dated 12/18/99 10:27:52 PM !!!First Boot!!!, ggavino@serv.net 
writes:

<< What I'm trying to find is any reference to codpieces of the period that
 were *parallel* to the ground at least 12 to 24 inches long.  I have an
 acquaintance that *swears* that she has seen primary documentation for this;
 and she quite vocal about sharing this information with as many newbies/
 novices costumers.  Since I don't like to nay say someone without
 thouroughly researching things, *myself*, I have not said anything. >>


Primary....????  I doubt it!!!.  Primary is the object itself, or detaled 
photos of the existant item.  Secondary or tertiary would be my guess....but 
12-24 inches seems, I dunno, a bit over compensational ;-) even for people in 
period  <shrug> Still, I can only say that I have seen documentation for 
reasonably smaller ones myself. 

Charles
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 17:21:55 1999
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

Margo said:
I have an aquaintance who's a jeweler, and who's getting interested in Ren
Faires and costuming.  I'm trying to persuade her to get into making replica
Elizabethan jewelry;  just this thread shows that there's a market.

I make some jewelry, and that sounds really interesting! What resources
would you recommend as sources for ideas?

-Amanda


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 18:06:17 1999
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 06:44 PM 12/18/99 -0500, sustre@pixelations.com wrote:
>
>Margo said:
>I have an aquaintance who's a jeweler, and who's getting interested in Ren
>Faires and costuming.  I'm trying to persuade her to get into making replica
>Elizabethan jewelry;  just this thread shows that there's a market.
>
>I make some jewelry, and that sounds really interesting! What resources
>would you recommend as sources for ideas?
>
>-Amanda
>

To all jewelers and prospective jewelers,

A book I *highly* recommend is "Renaissance Jewelry" by Yvonne Hackenbroch.
Sotheby Parke Bernet Publications by Philip Wilson Publishers, Ltd., London,
1979. ISBN 0-85667-056-1. and Lizenzausgabe C. H. Beck'sche
Verlagsbuchhandlung (Oscar Beck), Munchen, 1979. ISBN 3-406-05751-9.

It is a very large book (oversized, with about half again as many pages as
Arnold's Q.E.'s Wardrobe Unlock'd) and is OOP. The subject matter is 16th
Century European jewelry. There are separate chapters on Italy, France,
Germany, Netherlands, England, and Portugal & Spain. There are wonderful
pictures of surviving jewelry pieces (with dimensions!), usually with
obverse and reverse views, with many in color. I have often thought that
talented jewelers could reproduce these pieces from the pictures. Plus lots
of portraits showing how the jewelry was actually used (good costume source,
too!). If you do find a copy of this book, expect to pay quite a bit for it;
new (about 15+ yrs ago) it cost me $95 + shipping from Sotheby's. I would
call any price under $200 a bargain.

Good luck (and let me know when you start making pre-1575-style jewelry <g>),

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 18:28:23 1999
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Subject: H-COST: La Mode Bagatelle is back
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

Several weeks(?) ago someone posted that the La Mode Bagatelle website was
not active. I, too, tried to find it without success.  Today, I am happy to
report, it is back up at its old place at http://www.lamodebagatelle.com/ 

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 18:32:06 1999
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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Uniquely You Dress forms 30% off
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>


>I bought two--and I get to pick them up today!

You did!!!!  There was a mistake on my order, and it still isn't in.  I am
eagerly waiting as I have never had a dress form before.  Hopefully
soon........

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 19:00:01 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 20:19:44 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Bad dye problem - Please help
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 12/17/1999 21:26:09 Pacific Standard Time, 
joanj@quiknet.com writes:

<< I don't know of any way to restore a polyester or acetate fabric if it has
 begun to change color; commercial dyes won't help. Unfortunately dyestuffs
 used on polyester or acetates are often unstable and break down over time,
 whether or not they are exposed to light or anything else. I have had to
 throw out fairly large pieces of acetate taffeta that turned odd colors on
 the roll in my dark closet. Now I stick to drapery fabric (designed to be
 resistent to light) or fully natural fiber fabrics (which *can* be re-dyed
 if necessary). >>

Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I told her that the gown was probably 
toast.  She had no money for fabric when I made it, and is a very big gal so 
I needed 15 yards for a dress.  I just got the cheapest fabric I could 
find(three years ago I knew a lot less about fabrics than I do now). If a 
dark dye doesn't take, and you're probably right about it not working, I'll 
simply tell her to keep it as a pattern for some future effort for her, if I 
ever have free time!

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume Design
"O, what a world of vile ill-favored faults  looks handsome in three hundred 
pounds a year!..."
The Merry Wives of Windsor, III, iv - W. Shakespeare

QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 20:54:28 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Gia Gavino-Gattshall wrote:

> were *parallel* to the ground at least 12 to 24 inches long.

The only one remotely like that which I've seen, was in a Black Adder
episode -- the one where he's declared to be bishop.

Then there are those Italian commedia del arte masks which are.... evocative.

cv
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 21:17:04 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 22:36:45 EST
Subject: H-COST: book for swap
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-Poster: Jafath@aol.com

I find myself in possession of a copy of Waugh's "The Cut of Men's Clothes" 
that I will never, ever, use. I'd love to trade it for something I _can_ use, 
like one of her other books, or some other book, or something as yet 
unspecified. (How do I know what I'm looking for before I find it?)

Please e-mail me off-list at jafath@aol.com if you have a deal to offer.

Thanks

Jo Anne
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 19:41:17 -0800
To: lilinah@grin.net
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: H-COST: 12th Century Muslim Egyptian stockings
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Wednesday i sent a message about my first pair of socks, based on a 
pair found in Egypt made sometime between the 11th and 14th centuries.

For folks who didn't get the first message, these can be seen at
http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/EgyptKnit1.html
They are blue and white, have diamond-star toes, and patterns of 
diamonds, zigzags, and bands of Kufic script saying "Allah."

They are my third knitting project ever. I didn't make them in a 
completely authentic manner, partly because i didn't know how. 
However, all the patterns and the method of making the heel are 
authentic.

I have now gotten my attempt at instructions for making them in a 
historically accurate manner on line at
http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/EgyptKnit2.html

Since some folks noticed this page, i want to let them know that i 
have completed the directions for the short-row heel.

I thank those who have sent encouraging messages. They have been very 
heartening.

Additionally, i have since gotten more information and have been 
experimenting with actually knitting from the toe up and with making 
a second kind of historic heel. I have finished one sock, scanned it, 
and again supplied directions. This sock is an anklet, unlike the 
first pair, which are knee socks. Ankle high socks have been found in 
Egypt. This sock is entirely an invention of mine, unlike the first 
pair, which are my take on an actual sock. It has two bands of Kufic 
script that say "baraka," that is, "blessings." This pattern is 
derived from a piece of 13th century Andalusian knitting. All details 
are on the page.

The pictures and directions for the "blessed" anklet are at:
http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/EgyptKnit3.html

As i'm a novice knitter, i welcome any feedback about my 
instructions, and i'll answer any questions anyone may have about my 
process... Also, if there are any problems with the pages, display, 
etc., please let me know, as i'm trying to make this information 
accessible and i will gladly attempt to correct any glitches.

As this message is cross-posted to seven lists, once again i 
apologize to those who will see this message more than once. I hope 
this isn't too awfully annoying, but, well, these seemed appropriate 
places to send this info...

Thanks for your tolerance.

Anahita Gauri al-shazhiya bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi

Ride your camel to Beyt Anahita, a Maghribi domicile
http://witch.drak.net/lilinah/
Maghribi and Andalusian costuming and other things Near Eastern
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 22:41:11 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 23:59:59 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: Historical novel??
To: Mandrake@Celtic.com, h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

Well, I still can't find the book but I have the title and author. Thankfully 
Harlequin puts a writeup of all the books in the monthly shipment in each 
book.  I was able to find it in one of the other books.  The name and author 
is:  Lady of the Knight by Tori Phillips.  Other info:  Harlequin # 476.  
Destination:  Northern France, 1520  Was out in September 1999.
Harlefquin online: www.romance.net  
I hope that this helped all who asked about the book.
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 22:42:25 1999
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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 00:02:53 -0500
From: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>
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To: h-costume-digest@indra.com, M311@aol.com
Subject: H-COST: re: codpieces
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-Poster: Liz /cozit <cozit@home.com>


> - -Poster: M311@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 12/17/99 9:37:06 PM Central Standard Time, cozit@home.com
> writes:
> 
> << I'm pretty sure I remember reading that book, too. >>
> 
> Now I can't find the book.  I don't remember the author either.  I read a lot
> of books so I sometimes have a hard time remembering all the titles and
> authors names. I remember it was where this man pays for this women and then
> deceides to turn her into a lady.  His friends bet him that he couldn't do it
> and he liked a challanged.  Oh, and then in some short period of time he had
> to present her to the King.  They are at a fair somewhere.

Thought it sounded familiar :-)

"Lady of the Knight" by Tori Phillips.  Set in the summer of 1520,
location is The Field of Cloth of Gold at Val D'Or between the towns of
Guisnes & Ardres, France.

It's a Harlequin Historical. The author lives in Burke, VA (and is a
Living History actress at the Folger Shakesperean Library...a bit beyond
the time period of the book, but not much).  Under the author info. the
book also says "She would love to hear from her readers.  Please write
to her at: P.O. Box 10703, Burke, VA 22009-0703."  Since the book was
published this year, that'll probably get a letter to her.


Good Luck! ...and I bet there are a bunch of us here curious to know if
the codpiece she describes ever existed :-)

-Elisabeth
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 18 22:50:10 1999
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From: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
To: "H-Costume" <H-Costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Favorite/dream costumes
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 00:09:29 -0500
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-Poster: "Beth" <bchamber@suffolk.lib.ny.us>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0059_01BF49B5.5159A180
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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My old dream costume is now my favorite - my bloomers. Black (my =
favorite color) with red trim. The pattern is copied from a print in =
Peterson's. It was supposed to be formal but I dressed it down with =
cotton so I would be more able to find excuses to wear the outfit.
So on to new dreams.... Something 12 or 13 century. A cotehardie (I =
might have the wrong word this really isn't my period) of a soft flowing =
wool. A tunic or sideless surcoat to go over it. As long as this is a =
dream I will find the time to embroider anything and everything =
appropriate.At the other end of the spectrum - a late 1880's early 90's =
ball gown. One of the basically sleeveless low cut dresses with bustle =
and train. Made of a pastel silk taffeta and dripping with lace and =
ribbon.Asymmetric draping on the front of the skirt would be really good =
too. As long as I'm dreaming - I'll take the house to go with the dress =
so everything is right when I wear it.


Beth=20
Who is obviously delusional and in shock from finishing all of my =
Christmas sewing 6 days before Christmas. My friends and family will =
think I've been possessed!

------=_NextPart_000_0059_01BF49B5.5159A180
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2721.2900" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>My old dream costume is now my favorite - my =
bloomers. Black=20
(my favorite color) with red trim. The pattern is copied from a print in =

Peterson's. It was supposed to be formal but I dressed it down with =
cotton so I=20
would be more able to find excuses to wear the outfit.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>So on to new dreams.... Something 12 or 13 century. =
A=20
cotehardie (I might have the wrong word this really isn't my period) of =
a soft=20
flowing wool. A tunic or sideless surcoat to go over it. As long as this =
is a=20
dream I will find the time to embroider anything and everything =
appropriate.At=20
the other end of the spectrum - a late 1880's early 90's ball gown. One =
of the=20
basically sleeveless low cut dresses with bustle and train. Made of a =
pastel=20
silk taffeta and dripping with lace and ribbon.Asymmetric draping on the =
front=20
of the skirt would be really good too. As long as I'm dreaming - I'll =
take the=20
house to go with the dress so everything is right when I wear =
it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Beth </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Who is obviously delusional and in shock from =
finishing all of=20
my Christmas sewing 6 days before Christmas. My friends and family will =
think=20
I've been possessed!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0059_01BF49B5.5159A180--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 00:38:18 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 22:54:54 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Greetings!  Yes, I had thought so as well; and I've found documentation for
smaller ones, too.  But, I'll keep looking until I can assure myself I have
checked all avenues of inquiry before speaking up.

On the other hand, I vaguely recall some sumptuaries about excessively long
points on shoes, and a few caricatures in period. And I think that we on
this list have already 'talked' about the points so long they required a
chain or something tied to just below the knees to hold the points of the
shoes out...I've got to check my files to recall what was said, though.

Gia/Giacinta
There's always an excellent reason to do more research *g*
researchaholic


>
>-Poster: Fopdejour1@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/18/99 10:27:52 PM !!!First Boot!!!, ggavino@serv.net
>writes:
>
><< What I'm trying to find is any reference to codpieces of the period that
> were *parallel* to the ground at least 12 to 24 inches long.  I have an
> acquaintance that *swears* that she has seen primary documentation for
this;
> and she quite vocal about sharing this information with as many newbies/
> novices costumers.  Since I don't like to nay say someone without
> thouroughly researching things, *myself*, I have not said anything. >>
>
>
>Primary....????  I doubt it!!!.  Primary is the object itself, or detaled
>photos of the existant item.  Secondary or tertiary would be my
guess....but
>12-24 inches seems, I dunno, a bit over compensational ;-) even for people
in
>period  <shrug> Still, I can only say that I have seen documentation for
>reasonably smaller ones myself.
>
>Charles
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 00:40:46 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Italian Ren again
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 22:58:24 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Greetings!
I have several sources I use regularly for Italian Ren, but they are put
away to make room for the christmas decorating.  I'll have to share the
books I use most frequently after the holidays.  Sorry...

Have a great day!
Gia/Giacinta
-----Original Message-----
From: ches@io.com <ches@io.com>
To: Multiple recipients of list H-COSTUME <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Thursday, December 16, 1999 8:26 AM
Subject: H-COST: Italian Ren again


>
>-Poster: ches@io.com
>
>What is the best book out there for making Italian Ren costumes?
>
>Sincerely,
>F. Havas
>ches@io.com
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite/dream costumes
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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  Beth=20
  Who is obviously delusional and in shock from finishing all of my =
Christmas sewing 6 days before Christmas. My friends and family will =
think I've been possessed!
Ha!  I just started mine!  Everyone will think I am possessed, for very =
different reasons! ;)

    Every year, the SCA has a Yule Feast. They usually have some kind of =
ornament competition. Last year, there were 3 categories, most festive, =
most period and most unique.=20
  This year, there was a snowflake theme. I thought a 'snowflake' theme =
was a bit odd since microscopes were invented after the period for SCA =
but, the categories were, best item with a snowflake theme, best =
ornament with a snowflake them, and third category was best cloven =
fruit. The dinner was on Dec 5th.=20
    It has provoked some questions, though. What has been found as an =
actual documented ornament?  Has anyone found anything?  I have yet to =
see a book like Janet Arnold's for historical Christmas ornaments. ;)
    Our ideas so far have been gilded walnuts, pinecones, etc. Cloven =
fruit could have easily been done too. Then there is that group of other =
natural ornaments. For example, wreaths, stringing cranberrys, hanging =
apples in the tree, and smashed flat dried Queen Anne's Lace, that looks =
snowflake-like (I wish I had more notice for this years SCA feast, I =
would have done that for the snowflake theme.)
   Any books anyone can point me to?  Good social history books? I don't =
really know where to look.

Michelle

 =20

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
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<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Beth </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Who is obviously delusional and in shock from =
finishing all=20
  of my Christmas sewing 6 days before Christmas. My friends and family =
will=20
  think I've been possessed!</FONT></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ha!&nbsp; I just started mine!&nbsp; Everyone will =
think I am=20
possessed, for very different reasons! ;)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Every year, the SCA has a Yule =
Feast. They=20
usually have some kind of ornament competition. Last year, there were 3=20
categories, most festive, most period and most unique. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp; This year, there was a snowflake theme. I =
thought a=20
'snowflake' theme was a bit odd since microscopes were invented after =
the period=20
for SCA but, the categories were, best item with a snowflake theme, best =

ornament with a snowflake them, and third category was best cloven =
fruit. The=20
dinner was on Dec 5th. </FONT><FONT size=3D2></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; It has provoked some questions, =
though.=20
What has been found as an actual documented ornament?&nbsp; Has anyone =
found=20
anything?&nbsp; I have yet to see a book like Janet Arnold's for =
historical=20
Christmas ornaments. ;)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Our ideas so far have been gilded =
walnuts,=20
pinecones, etc. Cloven fruit could have easily been done too. Then there =
is that=20
group of other natural ornaments.&nbsp;For example, wreaths, stringing=20
cranberrys, hanging apples in the tree, and smashed flat dried Queen =
Anne's=20
Lace, that looks snowflake-like (I wish I had more notice for this years =
SCA=20
feast, I would have done that for the snowflake theme.)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; Any books anyone can point me to?&nbsp; =
Good=20
social history books? I don't really know where to look.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Michelle</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 02:36:23 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: codpieces
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

At 02:23 PM 12/18/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
>
>Yes, I have that one.
>
>What I'm trying to find is any reference to codpieces of the period that
>were *parallel* to the ground at least 12 to 24 inches long.  I have an
>acquaintance that *swears* that she has seen primary documentation for this;
>and she quite vocal about sharing this information with as many newbies/
>novices costumers.  Since I don't like to nay say someone without
>thouroughly researching things, *myself*, I have not said anything.
>
>I have been trying since early1997 to find any supporting documentation.  I
>would even be interested in information regarding satrical caricatures and
>any thing the chruch or Stubbs or any of his ilk would have said at the
>time.

I've never seen anything in German Renn like that...

Julie Adams

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 04:30:27 1999
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From: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: History of Paisley?
In-Reply-To: <199912181627.JAA13997@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Jean Waddie <anne@montgomerie.demon.co.uk>

In message <199912181627.JAA13997@net.indra.com>, Gary Stephens
<info@5rivers.org> writes
>
>-Poster: Gary Stephens <info@5rivers.org>
>
>       Paisley indeed originated in India. When trade with India began to
>explode in England in the mid to late 1800s, so did fascination with things
>Eastern. In an attempt to curtail the cost of the shawls which were being
>imported, and to regain market lost to imports, the English textile
>industry attempted to copy the designs. What resulted is the highly
>stylized paisleys we know today. In fact, the best of these designs came
>from, you guessed it, Paisley, England.
>
That's Paisley, Scotland.  Near Glasgow.

>       If you would like a general overview of paisley and the shawls that
>came as a result of fascination with the design, you might look up a wee
>Shire publication on shawls. It is not a definitive work by any means, but
>does give one an introduction as well as a good bibliography.
>
>Lorina
>
>--------------------------------------
> Five Rivers Chapmanry ~ purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage & fine
>hand-sewn, embroidered garments http://www.5rivers.org e-mail:
>info@5rivers.org
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
Jean Waddie
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 09:09:29 1999
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From: "Sally Ann Chandler" <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Silk buttons
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 12:42:21 -0000
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-Poster: "Sally Ann Chandler" <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk>

This sounds as if it might be the sort of thing.  It sounds a bit like
kumihomo (I know that's the wrong spelling)  which is a Japanese braid
making technique.  I suppose that they would totally decompose hence no
remains.  Thanks Kate.

Sally Ann


-----Original Message-----
From: KATE M BUNTING <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: 18 December 1999 11:49
Subject: H-COST: Re: Silk buttons


>
>-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
>
>Sally - I don't know about the 14th and 15th centuries, but a few years ago
a Sealed Knot friend of mine showed me how to make buttons from thread
*without* the supporting ring of Dorset buttons. I've never actually got
round to trying it for myself, though.
> You use a cardboard disc with nicks cut all round the circumference. To
the best of my recollection, you stretch threads across radially, looping
them round the projections between the nicks, then use a needle to take a
thread round spirally, passing it round each radial thread. When the disc is
full, you remove the cardboard and pull the circle into a sphere round a
lump of wadding. (hope this makes sense.) Could this be the kind of thing
your silkwomen were making?
>
>Kate Bunting
>Library, University of Derby
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 12:31:08 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>  This year, there was a snowflake theme. I thought a 'snowflake' theme was
a bit odd since microscopes were invented after the period for SCA

You must have smaller snowflakes than we do here.  I can see a snowflake,
and it's six-sided lacy crystal structure, quite easily. About  1/4" across,
as I recall.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 12:50:11 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Women's Ren shoes about 1530-1550
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 11:07:22 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Hello!  I had thought I had bookmarked the webpage that has all the
wonderful info on shoes, or at the very least saved the post announcing it
had been updated...and find that I did neither.

Could someone let me know the URL, please?  I'm kinda in a time crunch, so
really would appreciate the help..

Thanks!

Gia/Giacinta

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 13:27:49 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <ggavino@serv.net>, <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Footwear of the Middle Ages
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 12:06:41 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I am assuming you mean Marc Carlson's page. It is the only one I know =
of, worthy of referal.

 http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOEHOME.HTM

Michelle

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am assuming you mean Marc Carlson's page. It is =
the only one=20
I know of, worthy of referal.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR>&nbsp;<A=20
href=3D"http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOEHOME.HTM">h=
ttp://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOEHOME.HTM</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Michelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 15:33:26 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST:topsy turvy
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-Poster: Marionetta@aol.com


Hi all,

I finally saw Mansfield Park this past week and saw a preview at the theater 
for a new movie about Gilbert and Sullivan called Topsy Turvy.  This may not 
be so new to the UK crowd on this list, I think it's already been released 
there, but I could be wrong...

At any rate the costumes looked really nice: a bunch of lovely bustle era 
Victorians and some really fun stuff from the Mikado.  Just thought folks 
might like a heads up.  Here's a link to a website with a review and some 
nice pics from the film. 

http://www.concentric.net/~Oakapple/gasdisc/mdtopsy.htm

Cheers,

Loren Dearborn
marionetta@aol.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 16:20:56 1999
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From: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 17:42:15 -0500
Subject: H-COST: shoes, dummies, & Italian Ren books
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>

Greetings. 
 i'm so behind in reading all of this, I'll just tie up some loose ends 
in a single post.
 I don't know if the shoes site you're looking for is Marc Carlson's or 
not, but if so, my bookmark for "over there" (not sure which page I 
actually marked or if it was the front one) is:
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/
 and if I'm wrong I'm sure he'll correct it....

 Name of my dressmaker's dummy? (which is a rag tag costume 
shop cast off of the really awful slidey portion and wing nut variety 
who's been jerry-rigged) I call her Norma Bates.

 My favourite book for Italian Ren is Elizabeth Birbari's Dress in 
Italian Renaissance Painting.

 mortraeth/vandy
vandy simpson, wareham, ontario

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 17:39:10 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Margo asks,

<< Couldn't this relate to the fact that women becoming nuns were (supposed to
 be) virgins, and therefore did not wear veils in their daily life?  >>

Actually, I do have a contemporary picture of what are called "Holy Virgins", 
and they are wearing what appear to be long white veils.  The problem is, 
none of us women who are possibly going to be Merovingian nuns feel brave 
enough to try being a holy virgin!

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 18:15:36 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Italian Ren again
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 16:32:18 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

HI, again...boy, I am posting a little more than I usually do.  But as I was
falling asleep the other night, I remembered that I did a Research Resources
list for a class I taught.  I did some digging and found it.  It is not all
inclusive, but is a good start to the ones I refer to the most.

Research Resources:

This list is not comprehensive; it is given only as a beginning point for
researching Italian art.  This list does not include research sources such
as sumptuary laws, correspondence, inventories or other texts.  Some books
on this list has some historical information, but the emphasis has been on
providing visual artifacts.

I encourage you to add to this list as you do your own research.

1)  Painting in Renaissance Venice; Peter Humfrey

2)  Domenico Ghirlandaio; Emma Micheletti

3)  Painting of the Renaisssance; Manfred Wundram

4)  Paintings in the Uffizi & Pitti Galleries; Mina Gregori

5)  Italian Frescos, the Early Renaissance; Steffi Roettgen

6)  The Borgias; Marion Johnson

7)  The 15th Century: The Prospect of Europe; Margaret Aston

8)  The World of Titian c. 1488-1576; Jay Williams & Editors of Time Life
Books

9)  The World of Durer c. 1471-1528; Francis Russell & Editors of Time Life

10)  Paintings in the Louvre; Lawrence Gowing

11)  Uffizi Florence; published by Newsweek Inc & Arnoldo Mondadori

12)  Fashion from Ancient Egypt to Present Day; Mila Contini

13)  20,000 Years of Fashion, the History of Costume & Personal Adornment;
Francois Boucher

14)  Bronzino; Charles McCorquodale

15)  Bronzino; Edi Baccheschi

16)  Royal Heritage the treasures of the British Crown; J H Plumb & HUW
Wheldon

17)  Bronzino; Alessandro Cecchi

I hope this list helps a little.  I didn't include the ISBNs on my original
list, but will look them up for people, if there is an interest.

Gia/Giacinta

>>-Poster: ches@io.com
>>
>>What is the best book out there for making Italian Ren costumes?
>>
>>Sincerely,
>>F. Havas
>>ches@io.com


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 20:05:41 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: cds??
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 13:30:36 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

 a source for used
> > or defective CD's.  Does anyone have a source?? I'll
> > need a lot of them. (yes I'm asking everyone I know)

How about the record companies or software companies...I know the record
companies just junk out-of-date and defective stuff to be crushed and
re-cycled - if they do not have a sale deal with the recycling companies,
they may be willing to let you take some; hell, given the numbers they
junk, they might even be nice and let you have the relatively small number
you require!

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 20:17:29 1999
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From: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Actors in period costume....
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 13:35:32 +1100
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-Poster: "Christopher Ballis" <stilskin@netspace.net.au>

> 2) Which actor(s) would you enjoy seeing in historic costume the most?
> (Specify the period--it should be a period they haven't done before).....

Arnie in Baroque!

-C.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 19 23:34:51 1999
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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 23:59:26 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: dummies 
In-Reply-To: <385B024A.D7E@netwiz.net>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>



>   No. 4 was spotted in a thrift-shop window -- I screeched to
> a halt knowing she probably wasn't for sale. Shops always keep
> them for display, but for a mere $25 she became mine. I wanted
> to name her Mitzi or something, but she insisted her name was Emma.

Ah! I always knew I could have been a model!  And found at a thrift store,
too, how appropriate!

Emma

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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 07:13:04 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Gems was: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
In-Reply-To: <385A3F2E.E2AE5101@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I think they've changed the terminology slightly, for manmade stones. 
>(Or else I've been misinformed, always a possibility.)
>
>Synthetic stones are made of whatever (glass, plastic, etc.)
>
>Lab-created stones are the ones with identical molecular structure to
>the real/natural stone, indistinguishable except for chemical markers
>that a professional could look for.  (They floresce, or do other things....)
>
>Then of course there are the various heat-and-other treatments, which
>are detailed in the Fire Mtn. Gems catalog.

As the list's resident gemmologist.  I beg to differ.  By definition a
synthetic gem is one which conists of the same chemical compostition as a
natural stone but, was grown in the lab, by any method.  These days you can
get almost anything as a sythnetic.  The Russians are doing a nice
synthetic quartz for example.  Actually, a lot of sythetic stones look very
different under the microscope.  For example, you can usually see *round*
or extruded bubbles, curved strations, or little hexagonal platinum
crystals.  It all depends on the method used for producing them.  However,
the makers of these stones are getting a lot better at disguising these
things, giving gemmologist more of a challenge. : )

Glass, plastic, etc... are simply refered to as man-made.  Unfortunately, a
lot of dealers tend to confuse the concept of synthetic & man-made.

As for treatments, almost all gems these days have been treated in one
fashion or another.  The treatments which the law regulates disclosure of
is diamonds.  For example, if a diamond has been irradiated, laser drilled,
or fracture filled, this must, by law, be stated when the stone is sold.

I'll get off my soap box now.  : )  If you would like more info on this
stuff I'll be happy to talk to you about it off list.

Cheers,

Danielle Nunn-Weinberg, FGA, FCGmA

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 06:13:39 1999
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From: Grace Morris <gmorris@cs14.pds.charlotte.nc.us>
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: HNW - Nun's clothing, 5th-8th c. C.E.
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-Poster: Grace Morris <gmorris@cs14.pds.charlotte.nc.us>


Several years ago I was invited to join a company of sisters as they 
attended a Shrine full of relics at an event.  I didn't want just the 
average "penguin" outfit (no offense intended), but wanted something more 
unusual, and even outrageous, as that is my style.  I 
"interlibrary-loaned" I don't know HOW many books, including one in 
French with hand-tinted illustrations and real bookworm holes.  At the 
time I was working on a class entitled "Music in the Cloister", so I 
searched in all of those, also, including Sisters in Arms.

After all this, I came away disappointed.  The first great period in the 
founding of cloisters for women seems to have been the 8th-12th century. 
(For lots of information, and really juicy stories, about Carolingian 
houses, see "Women Under Monasticism:  Chapters in Saint-Lore and Convent 
Life between A,D,500 and A.D. 1500" by Lena Eckenstein.  Cambridge 
University Press.) My collected impresession was that even in the early 
part of this period, there was little uniformity of dress, the emphasis 
upon simplicity and modesty; visual evidence shows mostly black, white, 
brown, beige, etc..  Veils, of course, but in the early years I never saw 
any of the stiff support under the veil, merely soft draping around the 
face, neck, and head.

Accounts that tell of the abuses, usually 
of the abbesses, relate how they used gold tiring pins, silks with 
trains, carried little pet dogs, etc..  In other words, they were 
dressing in the fashion of the times in which they lived.  In short, if I 
was to be a truly outrageous nun, you wouldn't know me from anyone else 
in the SCA...  

There is a happy ending.  Sometime after the event, I happened upon a 
painting of the wall of a 12th/13th(?) century Swedish church, showing a 
nun in what at first seemed to be your run-of-the-mill penguin suit.  
Closer inspection revealed a large (4-5 inch) white stripe down the 
middle of her black veil.  Christened the "skunk nun", and armed with my 
personal reliquary for/of St. Dogma, I am now prepared to take my place 
among my sisters.

A few other sources about nuns:

Carr, Annemarie Weyl.  "Women and Monasticism in Byzantium:  Introducton 
from an Art Historian."  Byzantinische Forchungen 9 (1985) 1-15

Johnson, Penelpe D..  Equal in Monastic Profession:  Religious Women in 
Medieval France.  (Chicago:  University of Chicago Press, 1991)

Monson, C.A., ed.  The Crannied Wall:  Women, Religion, and the Arts in 
Early Modern Europe.  (Ann Arbor:  University of Michigan Press, 1992)

Power, Eileen.  Medieval English Nunneries, c. 1275-1535.  
(1922;  reprint ed., NY:  Biblio & Tannen, 1964)

Ranft, Patricia.  Women and the Religious Life in Premodern Europe.  (NY: 
St. Marin's Press, 1996)

Wemple, Suzanne Fonay.  Women in Frankish Society:  Marriage and the 
Cloister  500-900.  (Philadelphia:  University of Pennsylvania Press, 1981)
  
(Sisters in Arms has already been cited....)

In Service,
Jessamyn di Piemonte, Atlantia


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 06:27:36 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912200225.NAA26766@whirlwind.netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re: H-COST: promises; wishes et al
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 12:48:09 -0000
Organization: Editors/heritage matters
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Dear List ,
Some of this should be done in private mails but I hope that you will
understand
Having got Christmas out of the way, I am trying to catch up on all manner of
things before my system is taken away from me and closed down for adjustment
and MM panic, until such time as- we know not when.
As the last time this happenned ( not the millennium- a system upgrade) -I
lost my address book.( and its the addys that remind me that I have promised
to look things up send stuff, patterns etc; visit old aunts ---the list is
endless)
So I am  trying to catch up with any promises that I have not yet fulfilled-
so if any of  you are still waiting to hear from me about anything - whatever
it might be please remind me as soon as you can  (not you Marc- the clogs are
being sorted as I write although I dont know how long transit will take)
I am sure that there are one two things I have overlooked so please remind me.
(apologies to the rest of the list)
 Giving names to dummies- is this rather silly and immature? I call mine
"Montmorency" He/she is really old with two of the thigh pieces missing -he
seems to be constructed from resined pressed cardboard covered in canvas ,
with lots of brass and shiny wooden bits.  The chair that lives with him is
called "old faithfull" but thats a different story.
Now then;
A happy solstice to you all and a merry Christmas/yuletide as per your own
particular persuasion-
Heres a seasonal tip for all, especially if you have any males in your family
who may fall into gluttony during the festivities. Make loop of elastic about
2 inches long sew a button on one end, cover the rest with a bit of ribbon but
leave the loop at the end free. Attach to waist opening of trouser of said
gluttonous male. This will expand  as the stomach is filled past normal . Its
a lot more tidy than them just undoing the button and of course may stop the
effects of gravity on the trousers. Adjust idea accordingly for any historic
period;
Happy times

Dave



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 07:58:39 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 09:17:11 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: favorite costume you have made
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com



My favorite costume wasn't for me, and isn't particularly authentic. I made 
it for my husband, for his SCA knighting, years ago when I still had a long 
way to go authenticity-wise but had begun to "get it." I bought white "linen" 
(it was a linen-cotton blend, mostly cotton, but I didn't know where to get 
real linen then and I was thrilled) and made hose to go over the white cotton 
braes he already had. Then I made him a white tunic with a keyhole neckline 
and handmade 3-in-thick white bands of trim at the neck, the sleeves and the 
hem. I made it by couching white fake silk cording in a sort of wave pattern, 
and sewing a fake pearl in each wave. I made matching garters for his hose -- 
I had no idea how to really make them, so I just made smaller (about 2-inch) 
bands and sewed white shoelaces at the corner.

He got to have most of his vigil all by himself in a spectacular Greek 
Orthodox church, and the rest in a tent, both time surrounded by guards who 
would not let anyone in. This was before the now-popular (in this area 
anyway) custom of having open vigils in tents with huge buffets provided by 
kind cook friends. It was exactly what he wanted -- five our six hours by 
himself in a church with his sword, wearing white undergarments, thinking 
about real knights (many of whom of course did not do it this way). There was 
a black tunic to put on for the actual ceremony, with embroidery and red and 
white check checked pieced trim, but the white tunic was the special one and 
it is the most special to me. I can make much nicer things now, but I've 
never made anything that meant so much.

Gail Finke


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 08:27:02 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 09:46:37 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< Absolutely beautiful braids were found, for example, in the 
 Scandinvian 4th century male grave in Hoegom (Migration period) 
 on the tunic.  >>

Yes, they are lovely, but they are bands, not braids.  Bands are woven with 
perpendicular elements while braids do not have separate warp and weft and 
are make of oblique elements.  Just trying to tidy up the terminology!

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 08:34:45 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 09:07:06 -0600
From: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: shoes, dummies, & Italian Ren books
In-reply-to: <199912201418.HAA07894@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Marc Carlson <marc-carlson@utulsa.edu>

<"Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>>
> I don't know if the shoes site you're looking for is Marc Carlson's or 
>not, but if so, my bookmark for "over there" (not sure which page I 
>actually marked or if it was the front one) is:
>http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/
> and if I'm wrong I'm sure he'll correct it....

Close enough.  It will connect to the other.

Marc


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 08:40:30 1999
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I saw them last night & was reminded of one of my more recent favorite
costumes... I made tights for my husband for last year's Faire out of a
good cotton (w/just a bit of lycra).  I left an opening at the front
seam and covered it with a triangular codpiece in black velvet which had
a metallic purple ribbon cross-hatching it and a pearl sewn on each
intercise (it was for a Celtic Ren outfit... saffron shirt, rust doublet
with mulberry trim, and slash & puff sleeves alternating mulberry &
rust... difficult to explain).  It's attached to the tights at the
bottom of the triangle with lacing & grommets at the top corners so that
it's actually functional.  I took the pattern off of a pair of men's
dance tights and altered to suit.  He's outgrown the doublet but not the
tights.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 08:51:41 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Tablet Woven Edging
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-Poster: Hhdunlap@aol.com

That's a bit different.  FOr the trim on period garments, the tabet woven edge is applied after the garment is sewn up and edges faced.  The weft is on a needle which goes in and out of the edge of the garment with each pass.  Sometimes once each pass, sometimes 2 times each pass, which makes the thing roll up around the garment edge.

Hope
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 15:39:09 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Favourite Costume that you have made
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>

Favourite costume for me would *have* to be my Orange and Pink 
Monstrocity.

I got some bright orange brocade curtains a friend was getting rid 
of.  When she realized I was making costume from them instead of 
hanging them at the windows she demended I wear it to the next 
event she was attending.

It's "fantasy" medieval, I'm afraid.  Square necked doublet with very 
narrow "skirts" (6 inches at most), "houpellande" sleeves that 
widen from the shoulder toward the wrist so that the bottom corner 
of each almost drags the floor when my arms are outstretched, a 
shoulder cape and hood with a long liripipe, fitted hose, and 
codpiece and ankle boots with turn-down cuffs.

The doublet, sleeves, codpiece hood and shoulder-cape are in the 
orange brocade.  The lining, hose (originally wool-crepe, remade in 
punk velvet when the wool ones split), sleeve lining, turn-downs, 
and hood/cape lining and turnback are all in vibrant pink (plain dyed 
cotton), as are the points up the front of the doublet and the bows 
fastening the shoes.

The shoulder tabs and skirts on the doublet and the bottom edge of 
the shoulder cape are elaborately dagged.  The sleeves, hood 
opening and boot cuffs are also dagged and turn back to show the 
pink of the lining to full effect.

One of these days I'll finish the full-circle orange cloak lined in pink 
satin and dagged all around the edges.....

It certainly causes a stir when I wear it to travel to events.

My current favourite I made for someone else is an Italian Ren. I 
made as a surprize for my friend Lissa.  High necked fine cotton 
chemise/shift with very narrow pleated ruffle above the neck band. 
Bottle green damask undergown with a lowish rounded-square 
neckline and mid-rib length waist.  Rust coloured cotton furnishing 
velvet overgown with an even lower neck of the same shape.  Open 
fronted skirts with a black and rust braid decorating the opening 
and matching brad used to form tabs over the shouders.  I made 
her two sets of velvet sleeves to match.  One pair full-length with 
the back "seam" open from wrist to above elbow, tied across the 
puffs of chemise with black points.  the other pair seperate 
sections for upper and lower arms, also pointed togehter with black.

It's not highly decorated, but it looks wonderful with the green of the 
undergown showing at neck and in flashes when the overskirts part 
at the front.  Lissa has lovely long, dead-straight fine blonde hair 
and the colours suit her really well.  The fact that this outfir *rally* 
works well was brought home to me recently, however when she 
loaned it to me so I could "rent" it out to some people who were 
running a stall at a Medieval-themed Christmas Craft Fair at Ludlow 
Castle in November.  It was worn by two different girls, both very 
different from eachother and from Lissa, and I kept catching 
glimpses of them through the crows and thinking how great they 
looked.  The outfit was so popular that several girls are planning to 
make themselves versions of it and Lissa is very happy because 
the people I rented the dress to paid for the dress to be cleaned 
and they also run a "Gourmet Chocolate" shop and paid her for the 
hire of it in hand-made chocolates....<g>


Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 10:41:28 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> It's a picture of an overgown, with short sleeves and slits in the skirt from hem to hip, which allow the longsleeved underdress to show.  The view is only the front, so I can only guess that it is the same in the back.  [snip]   Has anyone ever seen/done something like this before?

Naturally, I'm at work without the reference.  But there is a picture in the new Medieval Woman Calendar 2000 of a king and queen playing chess.  He is wearing an overgown just like this.  1334 England is the date of the picture.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 10:43:26 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 09:00:39 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: cds??
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  Think I'll give it a try with what I have. It's for theatrical
>  purposes only -- I was planning to attach them to a background
>  fabric, which may also make some difference in the appearance.
>  
>  Susan

A couple of my friends work for a giant software company who shall not be
named, and can get me unlimited loads of cd's. The only request is that I
must make them unreadable (i.e. punch a hole in them) and I can get as many
as I want. Currently, I have a huge box of them in storage, awaiting the day
I have that 'copious spare time' to make the cloak I have in mind . . .

If you like, contact me off-line and we'll see what we can work out.

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From: "Marquis" <marquis@kipar.org>
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-Poster: "Marquis" <marquis@kipar.org>


> -Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

> Yes, they are lovely, but they are bands, not braids. 

Sorry. I am German. Not a native English speaker. 

Nicole
************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 12:37:00 -0500
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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Subject: Re: Gems was: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
References: <199912170409.UAA12423@apollo.directcon.net> <3.0.1.32.19991220071304.0090d590@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Thank you for the correction, Danielle.

> As for treatments, almost all gems these days have been treated in one
> fashion or another.  The treatments which the law regulates disclosure of
> is diamonds.  For example, if a diamond has been irradiated, laser drilled,
> or fracture filled, this must, by law, be stated when the stone is sold.

I thought *all* treatments on stones sold in the US must now be
revealed?  There's a cautionary box about it in my only recent source --
the Fire Mtn catalog.

cv, confused
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Subject: H-COST: dinner vs. cocktail vs. ball dress, oh my!
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 99 10:04:32 -0800
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-Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>


Okay, so you have dinner dresses and cocktail dresses-- how are those
different from ballgowns?

Dinner dress: Low neckline, short sleeves, worn with jewelry, ankle
length. Appropriate to wear to dinner, then a concert or informal ball.

Cocktail dress: More revealing and less formal than dinner dress.
Knee length.Appropriate to wear to cocktails and then to a nightclub. 

Ballgown...?

thanks

Gail DeCamp


>Traditionally, a dinner dress was generally more formal than an afternoon or
>morning gown.  It usually had a lower neckline, and short sleeves - and was
>made of an "evening" fabric.    Jewellery was also worn with it.  The Dinner
>Dress could then be worn to a less-formal ball/gathering or to the theatre
>or a  concert.
>
>A cocktail dress was rather more revealing - and was less formal.  It was
>generally a bit "flashier" and was designed to then be able to go
>nightclubbing in - rather than to a ball or concernt.
>
>In later times, the cocktail dress was usually knee length or above, and a
>dinner dress is usually ankle length (according to my mother who used to
>make them for a living - and who was a debutante and had to know these
>things).





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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 10:16:33 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>

> The problem is, 
>  none of us women who are possibly going to be Merovingian nuns feel brave

>  enough to try being a holy virgin!
>  
>  Nancy

Don't worry, they're 'Holy Virgins', not 'wholly virgins', so y'all are
safe!

*ducking*

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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          for <h-costume@indra.com>; Mon, 20 Dec 1999 10:21:29 -0800
Message-ID: <29876598.945714089861.JavaMail.imail@patti.excite.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 10:21:29 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Actors in period costume....
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  > 2) Which actor(s) would you enjoy seeing in historic costume the most?
>  > (Specify the period--it should be a period they haven't done
before).....

I liked Rowen Atkinson in Blackadder II. He looks like such a weasel in the
other parts of the series, but there's something about a (not) gent in
Elizabethan . . .

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 13:14:45 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<< > Yes, they are lovely, but they are bands, not braids. 
 
<< Sorry. I am German. Not a native English speaker.  >>

Ah, I didn't mean to sound critical!  Please forgive me if I did.  All I 
meant was to explain the differences.  Actually, the problem lies with the 
translation from the German/Old English into modern English as a "braid" 
seems to mean a narrow band of any sort.  

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 13:14:46 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 14:33:10 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

<<  Don't worry, they're 'Holy Virgins', not 'wholly virgins', so y'all are
 safe! >>

Kate, I am falling off my chair with laughter!  That is truly wonderful.  

Nancy
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 13:18:15 1999
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

After seeing the Boston Christmas Revels last night, set in a vaguely
renaissance Italy, I have become interested in making such a dress. I'd
like it to be reasonably authentic, in concept anyway.

Is there, anywhere, a site that has some basic Italian Ren info up? I'd
like to know what is worn, from the skin out, and maybe basic descriptions
and/or sketches of the layers. Thanks!

The costumes in the Revels were OK- not authentic, but plausible-looking.
There was one couple who had seemingly wandered in from Tudor England! And
the king and queen were rather discordant; he was dressed like a pope, and
she like Glinda the Good Witch (but not as well made)! I wonder what they
were thinking when they costumed those 2... It looked nice from the
audiance (except for the king and quee, but they were mostly in corners),
and the show was wonderful.

Thanks!

-Amanda



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 14:07:23 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 12:25:34 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Oh well shoot, I knew that.  Or used to know that.  I should have said '...
on taking her vows'.  Thanks for the correction.

> ----------
> From: 	Susan Fatemi[SMTP:susanf@netwiz.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Friday, December 17, 1999 8:00 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: Nun's clothing, 
> 
> 
> -Poster: Susan Fatemi <susanf@netwiz.net>
> 
> MAGGIE SECARA wrote:
> > 
> > -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
> > 
> > Perhaps a veil was presented to a nun upon taking holy orders, and that
> veil
> 
> Uh, sorry to intrude, but nuns do not take holy orders. That
> is what makes a priest a priest. In the Catholic and Orthodox
> churches, this sacrament is still limited to men.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 14:42:50 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Picture vs. Reality:  early 1880's skirt
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 99 12:57:54 -0800
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From: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>
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-Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>


Hi all,

I am completely confused, and I'm hoping someone here can enlighten me.

Background:

For years, I've been admiring a picture in Hunnisett's Victorian-to-
Modern book. In her section on "Making a basic dress", she has a picture
of a slim-bustle Victorian gown made up by Colin Lavers. She says he
used skirt 24A.  There appear to be two skirts, an underskirt and an
overskirt. The overskirt is gathered up at the sides, seemingly to about
knee level, and the front (and, I presume, the rear) drape gracefully to
about 6" above ground level.  It looks like the gown is worn over a corset
and either no bustle or a very minimal one.

Now the story:

Okay, so I tried making this, using skirt 24A.  I made an underskirt out
of a stiff calico and an overskirt out of hunter green velveteen, both 
from skirt 24a, then dressed my dummy in a corset and bustle petticoat
and underskirt and overskirt and tried to gather the skirt as shown in
the picture.  (If you don't have the picture in front of you... it looks 
as
though the maker gathered the skirt all the way along a side back
seam.)  

And the problem:

When I gather the skirt the way it looks like it's been gathered in the
picture, it doesn't end up looking like the picture. WHY?!!?!!?  

My specific gripe is that the overskirt fabric does not swag in the same
graceful folds in the front and back of the skirt. Instead, the front and
back still reach the floor, even though I have gathered the sides as
shown in the photo. 

Right then. Anybody got any ideas why this is happening?

thanks

Gail



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 15:00:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 13:17:18 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Historical Links
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Hello!

Just wondered if anyone else had discovered this link page:

http://www.bloodredrose.com/apat/apatl17t.html

Quite the treasure trove, IMHO.

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 15:56:11 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com, SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: H-COST: Machine Wash Worsted Wool?
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

I'm sure this has been discussed before, but as i lost all my saved 
messages in a hard disk crash two months ago, i thought i'd annoy 
everyone and ask again:

I have some very fine (fine as in thin) good quality 100 per cent 
wool worsted cloth in a dark teal green. I'm planning to make an 
Egyptian "Coptic"/Byzantine style tunic out of it (circa 4th through 
11th centuries CE).

I am in the habit of washing all my fabric before i cut it, except 
for things that really can't stand it.

What i what to know is, should this hold up to machine washing in 
cold water? I DO NOT want it to get fulled, so i'll hang it to dry. I 
imagine it will shrink a little.

Is it likely to end up being fulled anyway from agitator action? Is 
it likely to shrink more than a little?

Should i resign myself to gentle hand washing of my costume in the bath tub?

Thanks for any insight,

Lilinah
SCA'ly known as
Anahita Gauri al-shazhiya bint-Karim al-hakim al-Fassi
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 16:40:48 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 14:55:15 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Picture vs. Reality:  early 1880's skirt
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  
>  When I gather the skirt the way it looks like it's been gathered in the
>  picture, it doesn't end up looking like the picture. WHY?!!?!!?  
>  
>  My specific gripe is that the overskirt fabric does not swag in the same
>  graceful folds in the front and back of the skirt. Instead, the front and
>  back still reach the floor, even though I have gathered the sides as
>  shown in the photo. 
>  
>  Right then. Anybody got any ideas why this is happening?

A wild stab in the dark here, as I don't have the picture in front of me. Is
it possible that some of the swag is attached over the skirts, and what
looks like two skirts is really two different sections of one skirt? Does
this make any sense whatsoever?

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 16:49:48 1999
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From: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: cds??
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 18:10:03 -0500
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-Poster: "Kristen Gee" <kristen.gee@linkpa.com>

 You might try lightly spray-painting them to reduce the multi-colored
'glare'.

Kristen

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 17:05:16 1999
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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 18:25:18 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: G street fabrics - rockville MD
Priority: normal
In-reply-to: <1F176F2C2977D311B3300090270E63784D2FE9@scl-exch.phoenix.com>
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>

Ha! You think it's bad having the URL, try living within driving distance of all three G Street stores! =)
It's a major temptation, being able to go in and see and feel all the fabrics. I've got to say, 
I'm incredibly thankful for the twice-yearly sales. I just bought eight yards of silk velvet from 
there. Saved sixty bucks!

--Jessica

> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
> 
> 
> >Well,  http://www.gstreetfabrics.com/ works as well-I just checked it.
> ...and is having a big 25% off sale thru the 23rd.  Dont buy it all before I
> get there, you naughty boys & girls.
> Have a great holiday & see you next year...
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> 408.570.1023
> Cynthia_Barnes@phoenix.com
> Phoenix Technologies
> 411 E. Plumeria Dr.
> San Jose CA 95134
> "I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and
> give the wrong answers."
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 


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From: CDepner26@webtv.net (Melissa Depner)
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 20:05:23 -0500 (EST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: test
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-Poster: CDepner26@webtv.net (Melissa Depner)

test

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 18:46:41 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 20:10:48 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Picture vs. Reality:  early 1880's skirt
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/20/99 4:03:59 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
stitchwitch@excite.com writes:

<< My specific gripe is that the overskirt fabric does not swag in the same
 >  graceful folds in the front and back of the skirt. Instead, the front and
 >  back still reach the floor, even though I have gathered the sides as
 >  shown in the photo. 
 >   >>
 Swags do best on the bias.  Cheryl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 19:18:43 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Picture vs. Reality:  early 1880's skirt
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

In a message dated 12/20/1999 1:00:44 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
gdecamp@best.com writes:

<< Okay, so I tried making this, using skirt 24A >>
Gail, If you respond to me off line, I hope I can help as I have made every 
one of her patterns more than once (In fact, many of them over 20-30 times!) 
Mela
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 19:53:11 1999
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From: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: late 13th c. dress
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 21:22:36 -0500
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-Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>


Thanks Merouda!  I knew that I could count on you to know!  This is definitely going to be the first project of the new year.  Like I said, I've got the fabric already here, just waiting for something to be made. I was the helpless victim of a fabric store closing, and right now my sewing room is so full that I can't even reach the back wall!  Hey, 90% off is a *very good thing*  :o)



-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> It's a picture of an overgown, with short sleeves and slits in the skirt from hem to hip, which allow the longsleeved underdress to show.  The view is only the front, so I can only guess that it is the same in the back.  [snip]   Has anyone ever seen/done something like this before?

Naturally, I'm at work without the reference.  But there is a picture in the new Medieval Woman Calendar 2000 of a king and queen playing chess.  He is wearing an overgown just like this.  1334 England is the date of the picture.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 20:12:41 1999
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Subject: H-COST: 14th c. gowns
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-Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>

I'm still looking through that old Art History book, and now I've found this picture of a way cool fresco, titled _Allegory of Peace_ by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, dated 1339.
What interests me about this is the women's gowns (of course!).  Again, the overdresses with the short sleeves and the slits up the sides, front and back. Very loose and comfortable looking.  But what really got my attention is the way they are decorated.  One of them is definitely parti-colored with heraldic motifs, and one of them has these huge dragonflys together with this gigantic geometric design on it!  Is this accurate, or am I seeing something that represents something else? Meaning, the title is "allegory of peace", so maybe this is just artist's fancy, not what women really wore in the streets of Siena?  Any thoughts on this are much appreciated.

Linda Rice


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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 19:51:50 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



MissMela@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: MissMela@aol.com
> 
> << Okay, so I tried making this, using skirt 24A >>
> Gail, If you respond to me off line, I hope I can help as I have made every
> one of her patterns more than once (In fact, many of them over 20-30 times!)
> Mela


Take Mela up on this, Gail - she really knows her bustle dresses!

I haven't used Skirt 24A (I've been using Skirt 25 for my bustles) but I
did manage to get a nice drape on the overskirt of my bustle dress by
doing 2 things:

1) The overskirt isn't cut from a square of fabric.  Well, it is but I
added 4 darts to the waistline, up to 12 inches long to gather in the
waist. Otherwise there was just too much material there to drape nicely
(it looked too poofy).

2) I didn't gather the sides - I pleated them, using largish pleates
(about 2-3 inches).  I think this works better for the expanse of a
front of a dress (which was 45 inches or so wide, as I was using a sari
and wanted to keep the embroidered bands on the edges).

I can send you pictures if you'd like to see how this dress looks.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 21:31:14 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 19:56:05 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: dinner vs. cocktail vs. ball dress, oh my!
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



"Gail K. DeCamp" wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Gail K. DeCamp" <gdecamp@best.com>
> 
> Okay, so you have dinner dresses and cocktail dresses-- how are those
> different from ballgowns?
> 
> Dinner dress: Low neckline, short sleeves, worn with jewelry, ankle
> length. Appropriate to wear to dinner, then a concert or informal ball.

I think that Mela defined the difference between "dinner dress" and
ballgown in our bustle class as dinner dresses generally could have
longer sleeves than a ballgown (which tend to have off the shoulder or
very short sleeves).  My 1878 dinner dress has elbow length sleeves. 
Also the necklines varied more on dinner dresses - square, scoop,
v-neck, etc.

> Cocktail dress: More revealing and less formal than dinner dress.
> Knee length.Appropriate to wear to cocktails and then to a nightclub.

Probably a "modern" definition.  I don't think "cocktail" dresses became
called that until the 40s or 50s.
> 
> Ballgown...?

Fancier fabrices, more decolletege, short or nonexistant sleeves, always
full length with full skirts, IMO.

Carolyn
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 19:58:20 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST:topsy turvy
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Marionetta@aol.com wrote:

> I finally saw Mansfield Park this past week and saw a preview at the theater
> for a new movie about Gilbert and Sullivan called Topsy Turvy.  This may not
> be so new to the UK crowd on this list, I think it's already been released
> there, but I could be wrong...

It's playing here in Los Angeles, although I don't know if it's on
general release.  They do that a lot around here so that they can
qualify for the Academy Awards.  

Another one to look out for is "Onegin" - it's on extremely limited
release here (just enough to qualify which means it's playing in one
theater for one week), but the review I read raved about it and the
pictures looked decent.  I was going to try to catch it yesterday but
ran out of time.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 21:53:57 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 23:22:55 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: Gems was: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
In-Reply-To: <385E688E.7D5ACC47@thibault.org>
References: <199912170409.UAA12423@apollo.directcon.net>
 <3.0.1.32.19991220071304.0090d590@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Thank you for the correction, Danielle.

You're welcome.  Thank you for taking it in the spirit it was meant.  : )

>> As for treatments, almost all gems these days have been treated in one
>> fashion or another.  The treatments which the law regulates disclosure of
>> is diamonds.  For example, if a diamond has been irradiated, laser drilled,
>> or fracture filled, this must, by law, be stated when the stone is sold.
>
>I thought *all* treatments on stones sold in the US must now be
>revealed?  There's a cautionary box about it in my only recent source --
>the Fire Mtn catalog.

Well, that *could* be a recent American law that hasn't filtered up here
yet (Canada) but, I would find that a bit surprising since it affects our
gem trade so radically.  Try contacting the GIA (Gem Institute of America)
for the most up to date info on that.  http://www.gia.org/

The thing is, you probably wouldn't recognise your favorite gems if they
weren't treated.  Literaly almost all of them are.  For example Tanzanite,
when you see it has a lovely bluish violet colour.  When it comes out of
the ground in almost all cases it's a muddy greeish colour.  Or what is
commonly referred to as "London Blue" or "Swiss Blue" Topaz has been
irradiated to produce that bright blue colour.  Emeralds are usually oiled
so shouldn't be put in an ultrasonic cleaner.  As you can tell the list
goes on.  

Believe it or not there is one thing that *should* be oiled on a regular
basis.  That is opals.  The colour of opals is created by little pockets
filled with water and minerals.  Unfortunately, opals can dry out over
time.  So, to keep them in good shape take sewing machine or watch maker's
oil and rub them down periodically.  This should also keep them from
cracking.  When buying opals always hold them up to a light source and look
for cracks.  If it's cracked, you don't want it - it will dry out.

Anyway, that is probably more information than you wanted to know...

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 22:20:24 1999
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Subject: Re: Gems was: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>


> Believe it or not there is one thing that *should* be oiled on a regular
> basis.  That is opals.  The colour of opals is created by little pockets
> filled with water and minerals.  Unfortunately, opals can dry out over
> time.  So, to keep them in good shape take sewing machine or watch maker's
> oil and rub them down periodically.  This should also keep them from
> cracking.  When buying opals always hold them up to a light source and
look
> for cracks.  If it's cracked, you don't want it - it will dry out.

Thank you so much. I was recently given a family heirloom for my daughter,
an opal ring. I'd didn't know that it needed to be oiled.

Heather

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 22:28:08 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 20:54:24 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 08:25 PM 16/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Has anyone tried to wear a tight laced corset under modern clothes?  I'm
not talking about >fetish issues, but mearly getting better figure-control
than a girdle under an evening gown.  >I'm assuming it would be a Victorian
corset, but don't these affect the shape of the bust >also?  Do these give
support to the bust?
>Andrea

Well, yes. I have. I must say that I got a lot of strange looks when I wore
it with a long skirt and a top. Everyone could see the lacing in the back
when I reached forward to get something. No one really noticed when I wore
it under my 'empire' waisted evening dress, tho.

If you have one, try it and see :] Just don't wear it to work, or your boss
may have a fit.

Kris

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 22:31:32 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 23:43:28 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: medieval needle-lace buttons?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>In Nancy Nehring's "50 Heirloom Buttons to Make" (really neat book) she
>states:
>
>Although virtually unseen on modern garmets, needle-lace buttons have a
>long history.  During the Middle Ages, after the establishment of
>artisan guilds -- associations of merchants or craftsmen with similar
>skills or trades -- button makers belonged to the same guild as lace
>makers, and naturally, lace-making techniques were incorporated into
>buttons.

I've never seen lace during the middle ages, unless you're counting
passementrie or drawn thread work.  However, even during the renaissance  I
haven't seen or heard of lace buttons.  Drea, how 'bout you?

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 20 22:31:34 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 23:30:19 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I have found the perfect silk in heavy flat weave scarlet silk with
>silver metal embroidery at £35pm. I have also just started a jewelery
>degree (pt to get me out of the house) and want to make a fully jewelled
>stomacher with rubies, garnets, pearls and diamonds. I have found a
>picture of an original which I want to copy so now I just have to learn
>to make the stone mounts etc and save up the pennies. I will be making
>it as a 1740's mantua with back draping copying the original I handled
>in the V&A

This sounds so drooly! My question is, where did you find pictures of
stomachers like that?  That is way out of the periods I know anything
about. Please help!

Cheers,
Danielle

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From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: Gems was: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
In-Reply-To: <3.0.1.32.19991220232255.0090e780@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> Believe it or not there is one thing that *should* be oiled on a regular
> basis.  That is opals.  The colour of opals is created by little pockets
> filled with water and minerals.  Unfortunately, opals can dry out over
> time.  So, to keep them in good shape take sewing machine or watch maker's
> oil and rub them down periodically.  This should also keep them from
> cracking.  When buying opals always hold them up to a light source and look
> for cracks.  If it's cracked, you don't want it - it will dry out.

Do correct me if I'm wrong, but don't pearls need oiling, too?  Pearl and
mother-of-pearl are aragonite, an unstable form of calcium carbonate, and
I *think* oiling helps pearls keep their lustre, though I could be
misinformed.

Emma, geology student, not a gemologist.

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From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Dream, fave costumes
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

Jumping in a little late on this...even tho' I mostly do fantasy costuming,
there are a few historicals I want to do:

1.  The Infanta Isabella - gold brocade gown shown in 20,000 Years of Fashion

2.  Empress Theodora (Byzantine court)

3.  Queen Elizabeth II's coronation gown (yeah, it's 20th century, but the
beadwork is fabulous!)

My favorite costume that I've made is a re-creation of Michael Whelan's
cover painting for the Summer Queen by Joan Vinge (fantasy).  The painting
is only head and shoulders so the rest of the design was up to me.  I ended
up with a "tailcoat gown" (shawl-collar jacket-style bodice without the
collar, with open-front skirt sweeping back from center front into a 2 foot
train in back) done in gold lurex velvet overprinted with gold foil roses.
The blouse is a tawny gold on light gold printed china silk.  The
underskirt is just a gathered rectangle - 10 full fabric widths of silk
georgette - over 450 inches of skirt!!  There are two shades of yellow, two
shades of green, and bright orange as panels in the skirt.  The lurex
velvet and the georgette came from one of the stores in Toronto's sari
district.  Then there's the giant headdress shown in the painting.

Sandy

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Subject: Re: Gems was: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

At 12:09 AM 12/21/1999 -0600, you wrote:

>Do correct me if I'm wrong, but don't pearls need oiling, too? 

The best way to care for pearls is to wear them regularly, next to your
skin.  . 

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 00:23:38 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: dinner vs. cocktail vs. ball dress, oh my!
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Okay, so you have dinner dresses and cocktail dresses-- how are those
>different from ballgowns?
>
>Dinner dress: Low neckline, short sleeves, worn with jewelry, ankle
>length. Appropriate to wear to dinner, then a concert or informal ball.

A dinner dress can also have long sleeves (popular with those of us of A
Certain Age).
>
>Cocktail dress: More revealing and less formal than dinner dress.
>Knee length.Appropriate to wear to cocktails and then to a nightclub. 

Or shorter than knee length, given fashion and good legs.  As someone else
pointed out,  "cocktail dress" is a modern name. Earlier in the century,
they were called afternoon dresses, even though they were worn in the
evening.  I'm also reminded of the movie "Pretty Woman" where the hooker
character has been sent off to a fancy store to buy a decent dress. "And you
need a dress to wear to...? "  "to go to dinner".  "Ah, then you'll need a
cocktail dress".  The look of befuddlement on Julia Robert's face says it all.

>Ballgown...?

generally fancier than a dinner gown, more decollatege, fuller skirts,
designed to be seen at its best advantage on a dance floor rather than
across a table.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 01:48:52 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 03:08:55 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

Same here, I know of heavily embroidered ones but not jeweled ones. If they
do exist, I'd like to know about it.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----
-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I have found the perfect silk in heavy flat weave scarlet silk with
>silver metal embroidery at £35pm. I have also just started a jewelery
>degree (pt to get me out of the house) and want to make a fully jewelled
>stomacher with rubies, garnets, pearls and diamonds. I have found a
>picture of an original which I want to copy so now I just have to learn
>to make the stone mounts etc and save up the pennies. I will be making
>it as a 1740's mantua with back draping copying the original I handled
>in the V&A

This sounds so drooly! My question is, where did you find pictures of
stomachers like that?  That is way out of the periods I know anything
about. Please help!

Cheers,
Danielle



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 01:48:54 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Dream, fave costumes
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 03:08:44 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

I just downloaded that photo this week, it's wonderful! Do you have a phoot
of your outfit? Would love to see it.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----

-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

Jumping in a little late on this...even tho' I mostly do fantasy costuming,
there are a few historicals I want to do:

1.  The Infanta Isabella - gold brocade gown shown in 20,000 Years of
Fashion

2.  Empress Theodora (Byzantine court)

3.  Queen Elizabeth II's coronation gown (yeah, it's 20th century, but the
beadwork is fabulous!)

My favorite costume that I've made is a re-creation of Michael Whelan's
cover painting for the Summer Queen by Joan Vinge (fantasy).  The painting
is only head and shoulders so the rest of the design was up to me.  I ended
up with a "tailcoat gown" (shawl-collar jacket-style bodice without the
collar, with open-front skirt sweeping back from center front into a 2 foot
train in back) done in gold lurex velvet overprinted with gold foil roses.
The blouse is a tawny gold on light gold printed china silk.  The
underskirt is just a gathered rectangle - 10 full fabric widths of silk
georgette - over 450 inches of skirt!!  There are two shades of yellow, two
shades of green, and bright orange as panels in the skirt.  The lurex
velvet and the georgette came from one of the stores in Toronto's sari
district.  Then there's the giant headdress shown in the painting.

Sandy



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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 02:22:28 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.890f6143.258fdd85@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Embellishment for long tunic
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

Actually, the problem lies with the
> translation from the German/Old English into modern English as a "braid"
> seems to mean a narrow band of any sort.
>
> Nancy

Also, there is a linguistical problem with the word too.  In Old English,
before the great vowel shift, a word pronounced "braid" (as we do now),
meant "bread." In the 'talk the talk and speak the speak' classes, given by
the guilds for Renaissance faires, you would be encouraged to use the word
"plait," in place of our modernly spoken "braid," because, you wouldn't want
to eat your hair. ;)

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 02:38:27 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Actors in period costume....
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 03:58:30 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

I've had so many people who want the Blackadder outfit made for them but
trying to find a good photo of it on a site. Has anyone seen it somewhere?

That and the black outfit wore in Orlando are the two most desired.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----
-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  > 2) Which actor(s) would you enjoy seeing in historic costume the most?
>  > (Specify the period--it should be a period they haven't done
before).....

I liked Rowen Atkinson in Blackadder II. He looks like such a weasel in the
other parts of the series, but there's something about a (not) gent in
Elizabethan . . .

Kate
----


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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: dinner vs. cocktail vs. ball dress, oh my!
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 20:12:00 +1100
Message-ID: <LPBBKNMJBFAPBEPPLOBJMEGLCFAA.madilayn@one.net.au>
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

The difference between a dinner dress and a ball gown is about 10 yards of
material!

For Ballgowns, tend to think froufy!  Usually very delocette or strapless,
always floor length (at least) and usually very full-skirted.  Always worn
with elbow-length gloves for formal occasions (which a Ball usually is).
Any fabric can be used, and jewels are worn. (a Tiara can also be worn with
it too).

Hope that this helps

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 04:04:33 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 10:26:48 +0000
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Elizabeth Higgins <Lissa@duchess.globalnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19991220205424.007c87e0@antir.com>
References: <004001bf482d$a900e6c0$5857f4d1@pavilion>
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-Poster: Elizabeth Higgins <Lissa@duchess.globalnet.co.uk>

At 20:54 20/12/99 -0800, you wrote:
>If you have one, try it and see :] Just don't wear it to work, or your boss
>may have a fit.

[de lurking]
<chuckle> I wouldn't guarantee that. I wear corsets all the time, the result
of breaking my back years ago and I found medical corsets were terribly
uncomfortable so I got a corsettierre to make me a Victorian one with added
steels up the rear to hold my spine. Over several years my waist shrank,
much the same way your finger does under a ring and my corsets got smaller.
The result now is that I have a small, but not tiny waist (21 inches) and all 
my clothes are made to fit (and I wear clothes based on the 1890's styles) so 
that it's very obvious what I'm wearing. Nobody has objected yet, in fact the 
opposite applies and the guys like it and the women say they wish they had
the 
commitment to wear a corset.
[back to lurking]

Lissa


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 04:14:11 1999
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From: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Machine Wash Worsted Wool?
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 20:56:50 -0500
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-Poster: "John Page" <kdp@tiac.net>

I machine wash all of my wool and worsted on  regular setting, warm wash &
warm rinse, before I cut.  The only disaster was with very open-weave wool
textile having long floats; it got washed hot and rinsed cold -- it didn't
quite felt but it lost about 20% of its area, lots more warp-wise than
weft-wise, and it nearly tripled in thickness.

Try washing a sample cut to a specific dimension. Overcast the edges and
let 'er rip.  After the sample is dry, measure.  (You can tell, I'm used to
giving instructions to my kids.

Kristin Page
Eithne of Canterbury

PS	Thanks for the sock pattern on your web site.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 04:41:59 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 06:06:13 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Machine Wash Worsted Wool?
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Even better than measuring the sample is drawing around it on a piece of 
paper and then comparing afterwards.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 07:11:40 1999
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From: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <QQhulx21842.199912202325@wodc7mr3.ffx.ops.us.uu.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: G street fabrics - rockville MD
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:48:21 -0500
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-Poster: "Andrea Gideon" <ahgideon@earthlink.net>


> -Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
>
> Ha! You think it's bad having the URL, try living within driving distance
of all three G Street stores! =)
> It's a major temptation, being able to go in and see and feel all the
fabrics. I've got to say,
> I'm incredibly thankful for the twice-yearly sales. I just bought eight
yards of silk velvet from
> there. Saved sixty bucks!
>
> --Jessica

Try living withing walking distance to one.  Actually I haven't been there
in over two years.  I just got so fed up with the place that I will probably
never go back.  They never have anything you want and the staff are so rude
and they either don't know what they're talking about or aren't willing to
answer any questions.  The ones that work the pattern counter are the worst.
I gave one lady a list of pattern numbers and sizes I needed and she gave
them to me in all size 18-22 and said that the size 10 wouldn't fit me.  How
rude!  It was none of her business that I was making maternity dresses for
my sister.
Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 07:26:41 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:51:21 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #887
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-Poster: Gaelscot@aol.com

+
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 07:30:55 1999
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From: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: medieval needle-lace buttons?
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 07:05:47 -0700
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-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>


> Greetings,
> 
> >In Nancy Nehring's "50 Heirloom Buttons to Make" (really neat book) she
> >states:
> >
> >Although virtually unseen on modern garmets, needle-lace buttons have a
> >long history.  During the Middle Ages, after the establishment of
> >artisan guilds -- associations of merchants or craftsmen with similar
> >skills or trades -- button makers belonged to the same guild as lace
> >makers, and naturally, lace-making techniques were incorporated into
> >buttons.

I agree this is a fun book.

> I've never seen lace during the middle ages, unless you're counting
> passementrie or drawn thread work.  However, even during the renaissance 
I
> haven't seen or heard of lace buttons.  Drea, how 'bout you?
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 

I have made some buttons similar to the tuffted ones pictured in Janet
Arnold.  At first I was just winding thread around a bead and attatching
the tuft.  Now I have tried using needle lace (buttonhole stitch) to cover
the bead after I have wound the thread.  This comes up looking more like
the picture.  So while they may not be 'lacey' buttons, the techniques used
to cover them may have been similar.  Interesting note, when ever I show
the needle lace buttons to people they ask what size hook I crocheted them
with.

Kathlene

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 07:59:06 1999
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From: Jessica Speer <speerj@up.lib.mi.us>
Subject: H-COST: Machine washing worsted wool
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-Poster: Jessica Speer <speerj@up.lib.mi.us>

I strongly suggest that you wash this piece of very nice wool by hand.  Use
the bath tub, room temperature water, dish washing detergent, a vinagar
rinse, and a fabric softener, with a lot of soaking and very little
handling. press ou as much water as possible each change, and at the end,
take it to your washer for a delicate spin, line dry or dry flat.

Fulling in wool occures as a result of wet aggitation and/or dramatic
temperature changes.  Avoid both.

Jess

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From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:49:10 +0000
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Mansfield Park and Northanger Abby
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

While I'm still awaiting the arrival of the movie "Mansfield Park" in 
Omaha as the costumes look good from the T.V. previews, I was reading 
my copy of "The Friendly Jane Austen" last night.  A section covered 
movies and TV adaptations of her works and forthcoming adaptations. 
According to the book, a new dramatization of "Northanger Abby" was 
in the works for British TV.  Has it hit the telly across the pond 
yet? Was the costuming good or not?  The last adaptation I saw here 
was on "Masterpiece Theatre" years ago and I'm a great fan of the 
fashions of the 1780's and 90's--in the earlier adaptation, many of 
the gowns were straight out of Heideloff's "Gallery of Fashion" and 
were to die for.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 09:49:45 1999
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From: "Sally Ann Chandler" <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: medieval needle-lace buttons?
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 15:42:04 -0000
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-Poster: "Sally Ann Chandler" <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk>

I think the confusion (if any) comes from the term lace - meaning a cord, a
thing for lacing (not the Oxford Dictionary definition, you realise!)  at
this period.

I'm keen to try all these approaches people have suggested - as soon as my
fingers thaw out.

Thanks everyone - and merry thingamybob to you all!

Sally Ann


-----Original Message-----
From: K & J Hopkins <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: 21 December 1999 13:53
Subject: Re: H-COST: medieval needle-lace buttons?


>
>-Poster: "K & J Hopkins" <khopkins@cyberhighway.net>
>
>
>> Greetings,
>>
>> >In Nancy Nehring's "50 Heirloom Buttons to Make" (really neat book) she
>> >states:
>> >
>> >Although virtually unseen on modern garmets, needle-lace buttons have a
>> >long history.  During the Middle Ages, after the establishment of
>> >artisan guilds -- associations of merchants or craftsmen with similar
>> >skills or trades -- button makers belonged to the same guild as lace
>> >makers, and naturally, lace-making techniques were incorporated into
>> >buttons.
>
>I agree this is a fun book.
>
>> I've never seen lace during the middle ages, unless you're counting
>> passementrie or drawn thread work.  However, even during the renaissance
>I
>> haven't seen or heard of lace buttons.  Drea, how 'bout you?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Danielle
>>
>
>I have made some buttons similar to the tuffted ones pictured in Janet
>Arnold.  At first I was just winding thread around a bead and attatching
>the tuft.  Now I have tried using needle lace (buttonhole stitch) to cover
>the bead after I have wound the thread.  This comes up looking more like
>the picture.  So while they may not be 'lacey' buttons, the techniques used
>to cover them may have been similar.  Interesting note, when ever I show
>the needle lace buttons to people they ask what size hook I crocheted them
>with.
>
>Kathlene
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 10:01:23 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:27:38 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> >Do correct me if I'm wrong, but don't pearls need oiling, too?
>
> The best way to care for pearls is to wear them regularly, next to your
> skin.  .

So, it would be my guess that, yes, you need to oil pearls if you don't
wear them much.  An OT trivia tidbit.  To fix a scratch in a slide
(photography) rub your finger along side your nose and then over the
scratch.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 10:04:50 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> If you have one, try it and see :] Just don't wear it to work, or your boss
> may have a fit.

I can't, for the life of me, figure out why on earth your boss would be
concerned with what undergarments you might wear.  *puzzled*  As long as you're
decent (and in some jobs even that's not a requirement) what should they care.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 10:11:02 1999
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Anne of Cleves Dress
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:34:15 -0800
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>

Someone recently was asking for a source for a large, color picture of the
Anne of Cleves dress  - sorry I didn't have any information at the time so
deleted the msg.  You can find it on the cover of the 2000 Medieval Woman
Calendar, available on line and at many friendly bookstores.  I plan to run
out today and get my copy.

Islyle
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 10:29:18 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:58:20 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Gem question
In-Reply-To: <3.0.1.32.19991220232255.0090e780@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>


>The thing is, you probably wouldn't recognise your favorite gems if they
>weren't treated...almost all of them are.
------------------------
In your experience are modern garnets, peridot (the palest green ones)
and aquamarine (again the pale variety), treated in any way to make them
appear better than the original stone?

(Here's the historical costume connection)...modern garnets look exactly like
the 19th century paintings and original extant pieces.   What about green 
garnets?
Thanks for any info.



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 10:35:43 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:58:09 -0800 (PST)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  > If you have one, try it and see :] Just don't wear it to work, or your
boss
>  > may have a fit.
>  
>  I can't, for the life of me, figure out why on earth your boss would be
>  concerned with what undergarments you might wear.  *puzzled*  As long as
you're
>  decent (and in some jobs even that's not a requirement) what should they
care.

And even if your boss does mind, if you are decently clothed and s/he still
has a fit, you could have their job! 

An aside, has anyone on this list actually worn historical costume to work?
And what was the reaction?

Kate - she of the Diversity Council at her own place of employment.
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 12:02:05 EST
Subject: H-COST: Re: Gems
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-Poster: M311@aol.com

In a message dated 12/21/99 12:41:33 AM Central Standard Time, 
margo@directcon.net writes:

<< Do correct me if I'm wrong, but don't pearls need oiling, too? 
 
 The best way to care for pearls is to wear them regularly, next to your
 skin.  . 
  >>

My jewler recommends keeping them in their case or somewhere else dark when 
not wearing them.
I have always used handlotion on my opals.  This was recommended by a jewler 
years ago.  Now I would be careful as some don't have as much oil and lots of 
fragrance in them.  Not forsure if it would hurt them or not.  
Kelly
m311@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 09:08:01 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> An aside, has anyone on this list actually worn historical costume to work?
> And what was the reaction?

Well, I've worn a kirtle with padded head roll on one occassion and on another
my black velveteen cotehardie with a pointy witch hat.  *GGGG*  Both for
Halloween.  But if you mean, historical clothing as normal clothing, not for
Halloween, yes, I have.  I wore my flannel plaid t-tunic in one day, it's
mid-calf as it's an overtunic.  "What a cute dress!" was the general comment.
It was great, felt like wearing my p.j.'s

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 10:45:54 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Historical Costume at work
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 09:12:38 -0800
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

Well other than Halloween.  There was that one time in college.  I you have
ever worked for a theater you know why they call the week before you open
hell week.  I had spent the week getting costume ready.  Come Monday I find
that I do not have a clean set of clothes in the house, and class in a hour.
So, I grabbed latest period costume, 1910 day suit, and got dressed.  Right
down to the bow tie and straw boater.  And off I went, the only people who
said a thing complemented me on how nice I looked.  Other than that no
reaction, but then I do live in California.

Yours Stephen

"Oh well, the best laid plans of mice."
"And men."
"Men?  What have men got to do with it!"


-----Original Message-----
From: StitchWitch [mailto:stitchwitch@excite.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 8:58 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com

An aside, has anyone on this list actually worn historical costume to work?
And what was the reaction?

Kate - she of the Diversity Council at her own place of employment.
----
StitchWitch





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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 10:48:01 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>I have always used handlotion on my opals.  This was recommended by a jewler 
>years ago.  Now I would be careful as some don't have as much oil and lots of 
>fragrance in them.  Not forsure if it would hurt them or not.  


My mother is a mineral collector and she keeps some chunks of raw opal in a
bottle of glycerine, which is, of couse, a main ingredianet in many hand
lotions.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 10:50:33 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>

> An aside, has anyone on this list actually worn historical costume to work?
> And what was the reaction?
> 

Well, it wasn't historical...but I was out clubbing one night in a town
three hours away, and got back just in time to get to work (I was the
part-time AV person for a law library).  I figured that I only had to
spend 4 hours in a small closet-like room, and besides, it was saturday so
there would be no-one coming by to gawk at fishnets, thigh-high PVC boots,
and lots of black silky lacy stuff (including, come to think of it, a
corset.)

So I skulked in the back door wearing my coat and made it safely to the
AV room. I was almost right--only one person stopped by that day.  My
boss.

I lucked out; apparantly the guy had a  fetish for pvc stiletto boots.
You should have seen the look on his face when he came in and saw me
with my legs crossed on the desk :)

Drea

 > 
> ----
> StitchWitch
> Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
> glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________
> Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
>  The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 10:52:55 1999
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Well, ya know the holloween bit. I wore a purple and yellow party colored
dress and got tons of compliments and requests to do costuming for them. I
NEVER do costuming for others as a rule and break it very seldom. The best
reaction I got was from my Daughter's schoolmates. They all ran down the
hall telling everyone in the school that Esmeralda was there! :)

My daughter was so proud cause her mom was in a movie! Lol! I explained it
to her later. :)

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Tue, 21 Dec 1999, StitchWitch wrote:

> Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 08:58:09 -0800 (PST)
> From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
> 
> 
> -Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
> 
> 
> >  > If you have one, try it and see :] Just don't wear it to work, or your
> boss
> >  > may have a fit.
> >  
> >  I can't, for the life of me, figure out why on earth your boss would be
> >  concerned with what undergarments you might wear.  *puzzled*  As long as
> you're
> >  decent (and in some jobs even that's not a requirement) what should they
> care.
> 
> And even if your boss does mind, if you are decently clothed and s/he still
> has a fit, you could have their job! 
> 
> An aside, has anyone on this list actually worn historical costume to work?
> And what was the reaction?
> 
> Kate - she of the Diversity Council at her own place of employment.
> ----
> StitchWitch
> Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
> glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________
> Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
>  The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 10:54:06 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 12:22:04 -0500
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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References: <199912170409.UAA12423@apollo.directcon.net>
	 <3.0.1.32.19991220071304.0090d590@mail.interlog.com> <3.0.1.32.19991220232255.0090e780@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

This is what I was able to find on the Fire Mtn Gems website.  Looks as
if the "new law" I thought I remembered was my mistake, but it does
imply that misrepresentation is punishable by various laws.

Disclosure Guidelines for Gem Materials
http://store.yahoo.com/firemtn/gemenguid1.html

We use the following symbols to designate natural, enhanced, synthetic
and imitation (man-made) gemstones. All of the symbols used are those
described by the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), of which we are
members. It is the practice of Fire Mountain Gems to disclose all
enhancements to the gems we sell (with the exception of normal cutting
and polishing). We also disclose the method of enhancement, if known.
This disclosure will appear both on the stone’s advertising and on the
stone’s invoice.  For the benefit of your customer and your company, we
strongly suggest that you follow these guidelines when you sell stones
and jewelry.

(ASBL) - Assembled Products made of multiple layers or combinations of
manufactured and/or natural materials joined together. Example: opal triplets.

(B) - Bleaching The use of chemical agents to lighten or remove a
gemstone’s color.

(C) - Coating Surface enhancements to improve appearance, provide color
or other special effects.

(D) - Dyeing The introduction of coloring matter into a gemstone to give
it new color, intensify present color or improve to color uniformity.

(E) - Enhanced This indicates that this type of gemstone is routinely
enhanced. Since many enhancements are difficult or impractical to prove
definitively, the approach taken in our printed materials and invoices
is to assume, unless otherwise indicated, that such enhancement has been
done to the particular gemstone material being described. If the
particular type of enhancement is known, that enhancement symbol will be
stated, rather than the “E” symbol.

(F) - Filling As a by-product of heat enhancement, the presence of
solidified borax or similar colorless substances which are visible under
properly illuminated 10x
magnification.

(G) - Gamma/Electron Irradiation The use of gamma and/or electron
bombardment to alter a gemstone’s color, which may be followed by a
heating process.

(H) - Heating The use of heat to effect desired alteration of color,
clarity and/or phenomena.

(I) - Infilling The intentional filling of surface-breaking cavities or
fractures usually with glass, plastic, opticon with hardeners and/or
hardened foreign substances to improve durability, appearance and/or add weight.

(IMIT) - Imitation Man-made products, fabricated in such materials as
glass, ceramic or plastic designed to imitate or resemble the
appearance, but not duplicate the characteristic properties, of a
natural gemstone.

(L) - Lasering The use of lasers and chemicals to reach and alter
inclusions in diamonds.

(N) - Natural Stones which are not currently known to be enhanced.

(O) - Oiling/Resin Infusion The intentional filling of surface-breaking
cavities of a colorless oil, wax, natural resin or unhardened man-made
material into fissured transparent/translucent gemstones to improve appearance.

(R) - Irridiation The use of neutrons, requiring an environmental safety
release from the NRC, with the combination of any other bombardment
and/or heat treatment to alter a gem’s color.

(S) - Bonding (Stabilization) The use of a colorless bonding agent
(commonly plastic) with a porous gemstone to give it durability and
improve appearance.

(Syn) - Synthetic These are man-made materials which have essentially
the same optical, physical and chemical properties as a naturally
occurring counterpart.

(U) - Diffusion The use of chemicals in conjunction with high
temperatures to produce color and/or asterism (star-like) inclusions.

(W) - Waxing / Oiling The impregnation of a colorless wax, paraffin
and/or oil in porous opaque gemstones to improve their appearance.

Additional Notes: If you resell gems obtained from us, or any gems for
that matter, it is your responsibility to provide all information
pertinent to the enhancement of a gemstone at the time of sale. If a
stone is man-made, it is also the seller’s responsibility to disclose
that fact. This information is required by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC).

Failure to identify enhancement of natural gemstones, when present, is
an unfair trade practice. Such information is required at each and all
levels of jewelry commerce. Failure to inform buyers could subject
violators to civil as well as administrative remedies. Anyone who is
uncertain about these requirements may write the American Gem Trade
Association, P.O. Box 420643, Dallas, TX 75342-0643
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 10:54:35 1999
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Danielle Nunn wrote:

> I've never seen lace during the middle ages, unless you're counting
> passementrie or drawn thread work.

As a tangentially-related item:
At Pennsic, I learned how to do three-person fingerloop braiding, and
one of the patterns allegedly period, produced a 1" wide strip of
something I would have identified as lace, if I didn't know better,
having just made it.  The pattern name was St. Catherine's Wheel, and it
looked like interlinked circles with spokes.

cv


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 11:42:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:06:17 EST
Subject: H-COST: Looking for Stefanie Dettmers
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Dear All,

Please pardon the personal post. If Stefanie Dettmers in Boenen, Germany is 
on this list please contact me offline at saqueen@aol.com concerning your 
calendar order.
Or if anyone else can help with a city code for Boenen, Germany I would 
appreciate the assistance!

Sally 

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashions Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 10:11:27 -0800
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-Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>



Kate/StitchWitch asked: 
> An aside, has anyone on this list actually worn historical costume to
work?
> And what was the reaction?

As a middle school teacher - 7th grade social studies is pretty much SCA
time period, I routinely wear period clothes to work, any where from every
other Friday to only once or twice a semester, depending a lot on the
students I have.  At first I got lots of stares, and some comments, after a
while it was "would you come to my room?"  

Islyle
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 11:53:42 1999
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References: <1D0F5BB98E98D311B17E0008C75D0B3A03EC41@hhsmail.dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Historical Costume at work
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:17:58 -0800
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> Well other than Halloween.  There was that one time in college.  I you
have
> ever worked for a theater you know why they call the week before you open
> hell week.  I had spent the week getting costume ready.  Come Monday I
find
> that I do not have a clean set of clothes in the house, and class in a
hour.
> So, I grabbed latest period costume, 1910 day suit, and got dressed.
Right
> down to the bow tie and straw boater.  And off I went, the only people who
> said a thing complemented me on how nice I looked.  Other than that no
> reaction, but then I do live in California.

Steven, if you were one of my instructors, I would have never missed class,
if nothing more than to see if you would top yourself!!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 11:57:34 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Historical Costume at work
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 10:24:19 -0800
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

Sorry Heather, 

I was not teaching the class, I was taking it.  This happened back in my
college days, as a poor struggling Theater Arts Major.

Yours Stephen

"Oh well, the best laid plans of mice."
"And men."
"Men?  What have men got to do with it!"


-----Original Message-----
From: Heather [mailto:heather@herb-lore.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 11:18 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Historical Costume at work



-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

> Well other than Halloween.  There was that one time in college.  I you
have
> ever worked for a theater you know why they call the week before you open
> hell week.  I had spent the week getting costume ready.  Come Monday I
find
> that I do not have a clean set of clothes in the house, and class in a
hour.
> So, I grabbed latest period costume, 1910 day suit, and got dressed.
Right
> down to the bow tie and straw boater.  And off I went, the only people who
> said a thing complemented me on how nice I looked.  Other than that no
> reaction, but then I do live in California.

Steven, if you were one of my instructors, I would have never missed class,
if nothing more than to see if you would top yourself!!

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
 _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 12:01:37 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Historical Costume at work
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-Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>

ROFLOL...

A sense of humor and a good husband? Are you SURE we can't clone you?

>
> -Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
>
> Sorry Heather,
>
> I was not teaching the class, I was taking it.  This happened back in my
> college days, as a poor struggling Theater Arts Major.
>
> Yours Stephen
>
> "Oh well, the best laid plans of mice."
> "And men."
> "Men?  What have men got to do with it!"
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Heather [mailto:heather@herb-lore.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 11:18 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: Historical Costume at work
>
>
>
> -Poster: "Heather" <heather@herb-lore.com>
>
> > Well other than Halloween.  There was that one time in college.  I you
> have
> > ever worked for a theater you know why they call the week before you
open
> > hell week.  I had spent the week getting costume ready.  Come Monday I
> find
> > that I do not have a clean set of clothes in the house, and class in a
> hour.
> > So, I grabbed latest period costume, 1910 day suit, and got dressed.
> Right
> > down to the bow tie and straw boater.  And off I went, the only people
who
> > said a thing complemented me on how nice I looked.  Other than that no
> > reaction, but then I do live in California.
>
> Steven, if you were one of my instructors, I would have never missed
class,
> if nothing more than to see if you would top yourself!!
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 12:03:38 1999
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From: SNSpies@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:27:45 EST
Subject: H-COST: Merovingian nuns
To: h-costume@indra.com, sca-arts@raven.cc.ukans.edu
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Hello to the list.

I've done a bit more research and have discovered that yes, indeed, 
Merovingian nuns did wear some kind of specific clothing other than their 
regular secular garb.  

In Gregory of Tours (6th century), he tells of Ingitrude whose husband came 
to remove her from a sacred place.  "She was in the habit of a nun, and 
declared that she was vowed to penitence;  she therefore refused to go with 
him."

In Caesarius of Arles' "Rule for Nuns" (6th century), part of Rule 5 states 
that "even those who enter the religious life as virgins, if they do not 
fulfill this condition [of giving up all possessions], either shall not be 
received or shall not be permitted to put on the clothing of religion ..."

Rule 44 of the same "Rule for Nuns" says, "Let them have all their clothing 
only in a simple and respectable color, never black, never bright white, but 
only natural or milky-white;  let it be made in the monastery by the industry 
of the prioress and the care of the wool-mistress ...

Nancy
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912211629.IAA32407@ivic.ivic.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Anne of Cleves Dress
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:03:20 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

I was asking about the dress.  I wanted to know if anyone had made a cop of
it. What sources were used, outside of what I have already, which isn't much
in this area.(  (I have JA, Patterns 3, the Norris-Tudor Costume book and
Period Patterns no. 46, German puff and slash.) Also, I asked what problems
people encountered, so they can warn me and I don't make the same mistakes.
;)
   Since I have asked, I have seen a comment from one person on the list who
says she made the dress and it was unflattering. ;) She says she sold it
long ago. I don't remember who it was but, could that person email me
please?

Michelle

>
> -Poster: "Lorene Dinsmore" <dinsmore@ivic.net>
>
> Someone recently was asking for a source for a large, color picture of the
> Anne of Cleves dress  - sorry I didn't have any information at the time so
> deleted the msg.  You can find it on the cover of the 2000 Medieval Woman
> Calendar, available on line and at many friendly bookstores.  I plan to
run
> out today and get my copy.
>
> Islyle
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <385E688E.7D5ACC47@thibault.org><199912170409.UAA12423@apollo.directcon.net><3.0.1.32.19991220071304.0090d590@mail.interlog.com> <4.2.2.19991221112014.00a2e2e0@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Gem question
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:07:46 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>



>
> -Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
>
>
> >The thing is, you probably wouldn't recognise your favorite gems if they
> >weren't treated...almost all of them are.

Treated with what and how?  If this has already been covered and I missed
it, sorry. I take it this is more than just a ride through a tumbler, or
polisher?

Michelle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 12:44:19 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:02:44 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: medieval needle-lace buttons?
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Was needle-lace used on buttons in the 1840's or thereabouts? I have a dress
from that era, with all the buttons intact. I've assumed they were
crocheted, but now I wonder.

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
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 The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 12:53:29 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: medieval needle-lace buttons?
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>

Yes, needle-lace buttons were used in the 1840's.  They were very common on
women's undergarments, and strangely enough on men's shirts.  There was a
sailor buried in 1843 who was exhumed in the late 1980s.  His shirt, a blue
striped calico, had needle-lace buttons that had been made around metal
rings.  Also, in a book I have (which is at home, and I can't remember the
title) on Victorian clothes cleaning methods.  The author quotes a number of
sources that state that needle-lace buttons are better for undergarments,
because they can handle being boiled and run through a mangle.  Where shell
buttons can not.

Yours Stephen

"Oh well, the best laid plans of mice."
"And men."
"Men?  What have men got to do with it!"


-----Original Message-----
From: StitchWitch [mailto:stitchwitch@excite.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 11:03 AM
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: medieval needle-lace buttons?



-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Was needle-lace used on buttons in the 1840's or thereabouts? I have a dress
from that era, with all the buttons intact. I've assumed they were
crocheted, but now I wonder.

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
 The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season

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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 13:06:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:34:55 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
References: <5B38B8D7EED8D211997F00A0C9E57FB91DB6E8@HP-LH3> <3.0.1.32.19991220233019.009b48d0@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Danielle Nunn wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> 
> fully jewelled
> >stomacher with rubies, garnets, pearls and diamonds. I have found a
> >picture of an original which I want to copy so now I just have to learn
> >to make the stone mounts etc and save up the pennies. > 
> This sounds so drooly! My question is, where did you find pictures of
> stomachers like that?  That is way out of the periods I know anything
> about. Please help!
> 
I've got several jewellry books lying around and they are in there also
some of the court dress portraits show them. Sometimes they are a full
stomacher shaped piece of jewelry and others are in separate sections
made to shape as brooches

Dawn

Dawn
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
 Ïà¡±á


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 15:12:53 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 16:36:56 EST
Subject: Re: Santa Cloths (was Re: H-COST: Re: Clothing Mistakes)
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

The "original santa", St. Nicholas was a bishop of Myra in the 4th century.  So, he would be dressed like a byantine bishop complete with a pallium.  Legend has it that he found out about a family who was so poor the father was going to sell his daughters into prostitution when they came of age.  As each daughter came of age, the bishop tossed a bag of gold coins into the daughters' room, providing her with a dowry and preventing her going into prostitution.  There are a lot of other legends, but that's the one most closely connected with gift giving, and the connection to St. Nick.  

Happy Holidays All

pamela d. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 15:19:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:44:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Costume Gallery?
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Could someone give me the URL for the Costume Gallery?
 I tried a search on Yahoo, but nothing useful came
up.  Thanks.

Kristen M. Sieber
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores.  Millions of Products.  All in one place.
Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 15:48:50 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991221214446.28915.qmail@web2101.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Costume Gallery?
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Kristen,

If you would have tried any other search engine you would have found it...
http://www.costumegallery.com   I have been trying for three years to list
with Yahoo without success.

Have fun!

Later... Penny

> Could someone give me the URL for the Costume Gallery?
>  I tried a search on Yahoo, but nothing useful came
> up.  Thanks.
>
> Kristen M. Sieber


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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 15:22:23 -0800
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From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>
>> If you have one, try it and see :] Just don't wear it to work, or your boss
>> may have a fit.
>
>I can't, for the life of me, figure out why on earth your boss would be
>concerned with what undergarments you might wear.  *puzzled*  As long as
you're
>decent (and in some jobs even that's not a requirement) what should they
care.

If you work retail in a town where the people can't accept blue (or even
burgundy) hair, your boss may have a fit. Especially if it's very obvious
that you're wearing something that's not the 'norm'. And I'm speaking from
personal experience. Well, about the hair thing. I wouldn't want to try the
corset.. my boss doesn't even get it when I rush out of work on my way to
an SCA event in my bodice and chemise and floor length skirt.. *sigh*

Kris

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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> If you work retail in a town where the people can't accept blue (or even
> burgundy) hair, your boss may have a fit. Especially if it's very obvious
> that you're wearing something that's not the 'norm'. And I'm speaking from
> personal experience. Well, about the hair thing. I wouldn't want to try the
> corset.. my boss doesn't even get it when I rush out of work on my way to
> an SCA event in my bodice and chemise and floor length skirt.. *sigh*

I get it!  You're talking about wearing a corset on *top* of your clothing?  I
thought we were talking about wearing a corset *under* your clothing.  A boss
isn't likely to see or know the latter.  I can't see how wearing specific
undergarments would be even detected if they were *under* your clothing.  :)

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

Stitchwitch wrote:
>An aside, has anyone on this list actually worn historical costume to work?
>And what was the reaction?


I did not wear it to work, but I did put on my costume at work (my earliest
"Italian Renn" attempt), that I think was not that great but I got alot of
comments, mostly because no one had ever seen me in a dress before.  The
comments were mostly positive.

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From: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
To: "costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Dry Cleaning
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 21:25:51 -0500
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-Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>

Since we're on the topic of the best ways to clean our costumes, has anyone tried the dry-cleaning sheets that work in the dryer?  I think you spot clean the garment with the provided liquid, toss them into the bag with a damp towel, seal and place in the dryer.  I've heard some folks at work talk about them, but I haven't tried it myself.  I think it works ok on things that need to be freshened up, but I'm not sure about things that are very dirty.  Has anyone tried this?  How good are they?

Linda Rice
VMAA

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 19:57:41 1999
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From: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
To: "costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: oops!
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-Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>

Sorry y'all! That was supposed to go to the *other* list!  Forgive me, please!

Linda

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 20:33:33 1999
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From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Our local news show did a spot (ha) on Dryel.  Conclusion: for tiny
spots, works fine.  For large spots, take it to a dry cleaner.  I
wouldn't be surprised if Consumer Reports comes out with some sort of
analysis soon.

Considering you just put stuff on the spot, I don't see how it would
work to clean, say, underarm stains, regular body-use stains, etc.

For most difficult/oil spots, I use K2R.

cv
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 23:06:57 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Gem question
In-Reply-To: <4.2.2.19991221112014.00a2e2e0@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 11:58  21/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Marsha J. Hamilton" <mhamilto@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
>
>
>>The thing is, you probably wouldn't recognise your favorite gems if they
>>weren't treated...almost all of them are.
>------------------------
>In your experience are modern garnets, peridot (the palest green ones)
>and aquamarine (again the pale variety), treated in any way to make them
>appear better than the original stone?
>
>(Here's the historical costume connection)...modern garnets look exactly like
>the 19th century paintings and original extant pieces.   What about >green
garnets?
>Thanks for any info.

Greetings,

Well, aquamarines are usually treated to improve their colour.  However,
off the top of my head I don't remember any specific references to
treatments in peridot or garnet.

If you look at extant pieces from more than 100 years ago the garnets do
tend to look pretty much the same.  As for green garnets, most of them are
of fairly recent discover.  For example Tsavorite (green grossular garnet)
was discovered in the Ural mountains, I believe and named after one of the
Tsars, Nicolas I think.  Demantoid garnet as a rule isn't treated but, is
difficult to find in anything larger 1/2 carat.  Again, I believe it's of a
more recent discovery.

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 23:00:02 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: medieval needle-lace buttons?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 03:42  21/12/99 -0000, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Sally Ann Chandler" <medcc@medcc.free-online.co.uk>
>
>I think the confusion (if any) comes from the term lace - meaning a cord, a
>thing for lacing (not the Oxford Dictionary definition, you realise!)  at
>this period.
>
>I'm keen to try all these approaches people have suggested - as soon as my
>fingers thaw out.
>
>Thanks everyone - and merry thingamybob to you all!
>>with.

Greetings and happy holidays,

Actually, I'm familiar with the different uses of the word lace however,
needle-lace is a specific type of lace done in the 16th century and later
using primarily button-hole stitch.  Since this is what was asked about,
that is the interpretation I took. <g>  I have no difficulty what so ever
with the concept of "lace" as in cord buttons being used.

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 22:52:42 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: Gems was: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.OSF.3.96.991221000451.11246D-100000@bigred.unl.edu>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

At 12:09  21/12/99 -0600, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
>
>
>> Believe it or not there is one thing that *should* be oiled on a regular
>> basis.  That is opals.  The colour of opals is created by little pockets
>> filled with water and minerals.  Unfortunately, opals can dry out over
>> time.  So, to keep them in good shape take sewing machine or watch maker's
>> oil and rub them down periodically.  This should also keep them from
>> cracking.  When buying opals always hold them up to a light source and look
>> for cracks.  If it's cracked, you don't want it - it will dry out.
>
>Do correct me if I'm wrong, but don't pearls need oiling, too?  Pearl and
>mother-of-pearl are aragonite, an unstable form of calcium carbonate, and
>I *think* oiling helps pearls keep their lustre, though I could be
>misinformed.
>
>Emma, geology student, not a gemologist.

Greetings,

I having fun with this!  Thank you all!  

Yes they are both partially composed of aragonite and conchiolin (I've
forgotten the correct spelling).  Actually, you don't want to oil pearls
deliberately, they're quite porous and that could damage or discolour them.
 Also try and avoid alcohol, hair spray, and cosmetics around your pearls
that can also damage the surface.  The best thing for pearls is wearing and
handling them.  Your body's natural oils are best for keeping the lustre.
Don't just leave them in jewellery box, take them out and wear them or play
with them.  Does anyone need an excuse?  <g>

Cheers,
Danielle

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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 20:48:09 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Gem question
References: <385E688E.7D5ACC47@thibault.org><199912170409.UAA12423@apollo.directcon.net><3.0.1.32.19991220071304.0090d590@mail.interlog.com> <4.2.2.19991221112014.00a2e2e0@pop.service.ohio-state.edu> <005a01bf4be6$ab11e060$af24fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Michelle wrote:

> Treated with what and how?  If this has already been covered and I missed
> it, sorry. I take it this is more than just a ride through a tumbler, or
> polisher?

I'm no expert, but I think blue topaz is actually irradiated brown or
yellow topaz (I don't recall which).  Subjecting it to radiation makes
it turn blue.  I have a pair of blue topaz and ivory earrings my BIL
made me a few years ago that are a lovely pale shade.

I think some other stones are also irradiated to change their color. 
Also some of the more porous stones can be dyed - a lot of "turquoise"
you see nowadays has actually had the blue added to inferior stone. 
Opals now are done frequently in thin layers of poorer quality stone and
backed with black onyx to make them more fiery, and a deeper blue/green
shade (which is rarer in pure opals) - my motto is if you can't see thru
the opal, don't buy it as it's probably a triplet.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 21 22:42:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 23:03:28 -0600
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Favorite costume - photo
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

A photo of my favorite costume can be found on the Costume-Con website, url:

www.Costume-Con.org/CClink/CC16-Photos/SF20.shtml

This is the photo only.  www.Costume-Con.org is the general Costume-con
website, and they are gradually posting pictures from all past conventions,
as they get them.  There are both fantasy and historical costumes there.

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 00:19:19 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Update
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 01:42:39 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I have given my 1800s section of my Online Library.  You may visit it at
http://www.costumegallery.com/1800.html  I hope you like its makeover.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 00:29:36 1999
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Sorry, it is late and I wrote this wrong... I gave the 1800s section an
update and makeover... Penny

> I have given my 1800s section of my Online Library.  You may visit it at
> http://www.costumegallery.com/1800.html  I hope you like its makeover.
>
> Later... Penny
> http://www.costumegallery.com
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 00:38:27 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912191849.KAA13188@apollo.directcon.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite/dream costumes
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 23:22:13 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

> You must have smaller snowflakes than we do here.  I can see a snowflake,
> and it's six-sided lacy crystal structure, quite easily. About  1/4"
across,
> as I recall.
>
> Margo

   That is pretty amazing!  I don't live where it snows, though, after
asking around since you posted this response, I am finding that I just
haven't seen enough snow.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 00:50:42 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3.0.5.32.19991220205424.007c87e0@antir.com> <3.0.5.32.19991221152223.007a3440@antir.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 23:34:10 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>


> >>  Just don't wear it to work, or your boss may have a fit.
> >
> >I can't, for the life of me, figure out why on earth your boss would be
> >concerned with what undergarments you might wear.
>
> If you work retail in a town where the people can't accept blue (or even
> burgundy) hair, your boss may have a fit. Especially if it's very obvious
> that you're wearing something that's not the 'norm'.

    I have a friend who owns a 7-11 store. He said that he wouldn't mind
hiring a punk-rocker, wild dresser, tattoo-ed person, etc., if he knew it
wouldn't bother his customers.  Sometimes, the boss is easier to please than
the customers themselves.
  So, if she were to wear a corset, or whatever, to work, where it didn't
exactly blend into what is considered normal, the customers may avoid the
place. "I am not going in there!  There is a weird-o that works there.
Let's go here instead."

Michelle



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 01:09:35 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Threads magazine
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 23:52:42 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00AE_01BF4C0E.78CB3660
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Does anyone have a copy of the Threads issue that has the Kimono layout? =
I wrote down the information on it and our library doesn't have it.  The =
only one who gets that magazine that I know, is my mother and she =
doesn't have that particular issue.  I am stuck. I can't find it.
   As per a recent post, it is in issue #32, which is dated Dec 90/Jan =
91. Is anyone willing to mail me photocopies? Please?

Michelle

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Does anyone have a copy of the Threads issue that =
has the=20
Kimono layout? I wrote down the information on it and our library =
doesn't have=20
it.&nbsp; The only one who gets that magazine&nbsp;that I know, is my =
mother and=20
she doesn't have that particular issue.&nbsp; I am stuck. I can't find=20
it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; As per a recent post, it is in issue =
#32, which=20
is dated Dec 90/Jan 91. Is anyone willing to mail me photocopies?=20
Please?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Michelle</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Dream costume?
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 03:34:12 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

Would you be willing to name the books and page numbers I'm sure others as
well as I would love to see these.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----

-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Danielle Nunn wrote:
>
> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>
> fully jewelled
> >stomacher with rubies, garnets, pearls and diamonds. I have found a
> >picture of an original which I want to copy so now I just have to learn
> >to make the stone mounts etc and save up the pennies. >
> This sounds so drooly! My question is, where did you find pictures of
> stomachers like that?  That is way out of the periods I know anything
> about. Please help!
>
I've got several jewellry books lying around and they are in there also
some of the court dress portraits show them. Sometimes they are a full
stomacher shaped piece of jewelry and others are in separate sections
made to shape as brooches

Dawn

Dawn
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
 Ïà¡±á


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 02:53:29 1999
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From: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>
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Subject: H-COST: Re: Historical costume at work
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-Poster: "KATE M BUNTING" <K.M.Bunting@derby.ac.uk>

Some years ago we library staff wore fancy dress for one Children in Need Day (a nationwide fundraising marathon in UK). I wore middle-class 17th century dress (brown wool bodice, blue skirt and coif). As the building is hot I left off a layer of petticoats and wore a narrow "collar" instead of the neckerchief I normally wear with that bodice.

Kate Bunting
Library, University of Derby

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 03:31:10 1999
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From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: H-COST: Tibetan Folkwear pattern
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

I promised to share my out-of-print Folkwear Tibetan chupa pattern 
with someone on this list.

Unfortunately, in a computer crash about 2 months ago, i lost all my 
data. Most was backed up except my e-mail.

Can the woman who wanted this please e-mail me? I had forgotten, due 
to loss of data, but recently remembered.

Hope to hear from you,

Lilinah
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 05:50:06 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 12:10:53 +0000 (GMT)
From: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>
Subject: H-COST: Wearing costume to work
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-Poster: Teddy <teddy1@mdx.ac.uk>


> An aside, has anyone on this list actually worn historical costume
> to work? And what was the reaction? 

I have.  Reaction varies.  usually admiration from colleagues, and 
relief from bosses that it isn't one of my little lycra numbers instead.

The students raise the occasional eyebrow, however.  Or so the 
counter staff in the Library inform me.

At least my 18th Century frock coat, long waistcoat and britches 
are in the University'c colours....<g>

Teddy
(Trustworthy Evil-Bunny of Destiny, part-time Knave and Creature of
air and darkness, apparently!)
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 08:14:16 1999
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From: "Design" <design@alincocostumes.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Favorite costume - photo
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 07:37:28 -0700
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-Poster: "Design" <design@alincocostumes.com>

Sandy,

The costumes are beautiful.  However, because both are based on fantasy book
covers painted by Michael Whelan, I was sad to see that he was not mentioned
with reference to the design.

Kevin

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Pierre & Sandy Pettinger
> Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 10:03 PM
> To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Re: Favorite costume - photo
>
>
>
> -Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
>
> A photo of my favorite costume can be found on the Costume-Con
> website, url:
>
> www.Costume-Con.org/CClink/CC16-Photos/SF20.shtml
>
> This is the photo only.  www.Costume-Con.org is the general Costume-con
> website, and they are gradually posting pictures from all past
> conventions,
> as they get them.  There are both fantasy and historical costumes there.
>
> Sandy
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From: Grace Morris <gmorris@cs14.pds.charlotte.nc.us>
To: h-costume@net.indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: Merovingian nuns
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-Poster: Grace Morris <gmorris@cs14.pds.charlotte.nc.us>


Just re-read my own post...

All of this pertains to early in period.  Dress most definitly was 
"regularized" later into our period...

Jessmayn

On Wed, 22 Dec 1999, Grace Morris wrote:

> This is great to know!  After what I found, it seemed to me that, mostly, 
> the dress probably varied from abbey to abbey. I always got the 
> impression that, living together, a general concensus would have been 
> made as to dress. When you read about all the French and especially 
> German princess who founded abbeys, it is pretty clear that they made a 
> lot of their own rules, especially in the beginning.  Eckenstein has 
> fabulous stories of their independence, including armed nuns barricading 
> themselves in a chapel...
>      
> So, it's nice to know that , even this early, there WERE rules, 
> event if they weren't always followed.  
> (But then, what else is new?)
> 
> Of course, if we REALLY want to complicate things, different abbeys 
> followed different Rules (Benedictine, Briggitine, although many of 
> these are based on the same original set)...but this is more information 
> than I care to delve into..
> 
> Jessamyn 
> 
> On Tue, 21 Dec 1999 SNSpies@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > Hello to the list.
> > 
> > I've done a bit more research and have discovered that yes, indeed, 
> > Merovingian nuns did wear some kind of specific clothing other than their 
> > regular secular garb.  
> > 
> > In Gregory of Tours (6th century), he tells of Ingitrude whose husband came 
> > to remove her from a sacred place.  "She was in the habit of a nun, and 
> > declared that she was vowed to penitence;  she therefore refused to go with 
> > him."
> > 
> > In Caesarius of Arles' "Rule for Nuns" (6th century), part of Rule 5 states 
> > that "even those who enter the religious life as virgins, if they do not 
> > fulfill this condition [of giving up all possessions], either shall not be 
> > received or shall not be permitted to put on the clothing of religion ..."
> > 
> > Rule 44 of the same "Rule for Nuns" says, "Let them have all their clothing 
> > only in a simple and respectable color, never black, never bright white, but 
> > only natural or milky-white;  let it be made in the monastery by the industry 
> > of the prioress and the care of the wool-mistress ...
> > 
> > Nancy
> > 
> 


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From: "Connie Bolton" <connie_bolton@douglas.bc.ca>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Two gown questions
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-Poster: "Connie Bolton" <connie_bolton@douglas.bc.ca>


I have questions about these two gowns, please.

The first one,
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/text/Reformation.Women/C
K37.html
is one I want to make for myself. I am not a stickler for completely
periodicity but want to make it close. I've got a red jacquard which is
almost thick enough to be called a brocade, just softer. So my questions
are: Do the dark sleeves have to be a different fabric, or could they be the
same? The cloth of gold over the neck, can it be silver and would a silver
mesh work ok for that??

This second dress is one a friend of mine would like,
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/text/Cavalier/CO10.html
and she's wondering what kind of fabric the jacket would be made of. We are
figuring it would be worn over a corset, would the collar be attached to the
dress or the jacket? Oh, and any hints on the hat and hair style??

Any other hints and tips would be greatfully recieved, as well.

Thanks for all help!

Connie






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From: Grace Morris <gmorris@cs14.pds.charlotte.nc.us>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: Re: Merovingian nuns
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-Poster: Grace Morris <gmorris@cs14.pds.charlotte.nc.us>


This is great to know!  After what I found, it seemed to me that, mostly, 
the dress probably varied from abbey to abbey. I always got the 
impression that, living together, a general concensus would have been 
made as to dress. When you read about all the French and especially 
German princess who founded abbeys, it is pretty clear that they made a 
lot of their own rules, especially in the beginning.  Eckenstein has 
fabulous stories of their independence, including armed nuns barricading 
themselves in a chapel...
     
So, it's nice to know that , even this early, there WERE rules, 
event if they weren't always followed.  
(But then, what else is new?)

Of course, if we REALLY want to complicate things, different abbeys 
followed different Rules (Benedictine, Briggitine, although many of 
these are based on the same original set)...but this is more information 
than I care to delve into..

Jessamyn 

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From: "Karen Stefanik" <kmste@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: bustle question
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 07:32:14 PST
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-Poster: "Karen Stefanik" <kmste@hotmail.com>

Hi everyone.  I am in the process of finishing up the Folkwear Victorian 
Walking Skirt pattern.  This skirt is from the end of the 19th century.  Do 
I need to wear it with some sort of small bustle/pad to make it look right?  
If so, I came across the following picture on the Web, 
http://www.ourtownusa.net/~wodnhors/3b12.jpg, and am wondering if this is 
the kind of bustle I should look for.

Thanks from a beginning costumer.

Karen
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 08:32:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Two gown questions
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-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

Finally, something I can answer!

The first picture is Bronzino's portrait of Lucrezia
Panciatichi (Panziatichi? Both spellings look wrong). 
I have seen this style of gown in other portraits with
both contrasting and matching lower sleeves.  However,
in Italian fashion, the contrasting sleeve appears to
be preferred (matching is more French, I believe). 
Here's a similar dress with even bigger upper sleeves,
and contrasting lower sleeves, Bronzino's "Lady with A
Puppy", (CGFA, American mirror site):
http://cgfa.kelloggcreek.com/bronzino/p-bronzino7.htm

Although the gold color was preferred, a silver mesh
over the shoulders would be all right; the portrait of
a de Medici matriarch (Eleanora of Toledo, with her
son; can't remember if it's another Bronzino, but I
think it's in the Uffizi) shows a gold mesh over the
shoulders, and almost all of the metallic gold
embroidery in this period is actually silver gilt
(gold plated over silver).  In a pinch, you could
claim it was an old mesh-perhaps a family heirloom-
and the gold had worn off.

As for the second outfit, this appears to be the
"Golden Doublet," variously dated to 1573, 1578 and
1600 and reputed to have belonged to QEI herself
(Payne, Davenport).  It was considered informal wear
at the time, and often worn under the Elizabethan
surcoat (Boucher, Arnold).  Appropriate materials are
embroidered linen and embroidered or brocaded silk. 
The collar definitely does not attach to the
jacket/doublet itself, and I would consider the collar
on this display to be too large; the standing collar
is for formal wear and the jacket is, essentially,
Elizabethan sportswear.  

Portraits from the turn of the 17th century depict
this style with platform collars (flat collar,
standing straight out from the top of the neck,
requires an underpropper), standing collars (aka
Medici collars), falling ruffs and regular ruffs.
Patterns for this jacket and others like it can be
found in Payne (1st ed. only, not the new one),
Arnold-PoF III (1560-1620), and Waugh-Cut of Women's
Clothes 1600-1900.  As for the hairdo, front should be
pulled back over some kind of padding to create the
pouffy look, the back put up in a relatively high bun,
and covered with a lace-edged coif.  In a pinch, she
could pin a small doily (well starched, though) to the
back of her head.

And that's all I can remember off the top of my head. 
Feel free to e-mail me privately if I haven't already
dumped too much information on you.

Now, if only someone would ask me about French and
Flemish influences on English fasion at the beginning
of the Tudor dynasty. . . . ;->

-Briony

--- Connie Bolton <connie_bolton@douglas.bc.ca> wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Connie Bolton"
> <connie_bolton@douglas.bc.ca>
> 
> 
> I have questions about these two gowns, please.
> 
> The first one,
>
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/text/Reformation.Women/C
> K37.html
> is one I want to make for myself. I am not a
> stickler for completely
> periodicity but want to make it close. I've got a
> red jacquard which is
> almost thick enough to be called a brocade, just
> softer. So my questions
> are: Do the dark sleeves have to be a different
> fabric, or could they be the
> same? The cloth of gold over the neck, can it be
> silver and would a silver
> mesh work ok for that??
> 
> This second dress is one a friend of mine would
> like,
>
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/text/Cavalier/CO10.html
> and she's wondering what kind of fabric the jacket
> would be made of. We are
> figuring it would be worn over a corset, would the
> collar be attached to the
> dress or the jacket? Oh, and any hints on the hat
> and hair style??
> 
> Any other hints and tips would be greatfully
> recieved, as well.
> 
> Thanks for all help!
> 
> Connie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 11:05:39 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 09:31:25 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: bustle question
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: "Karen Stefanik" <kmste@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi everyone.  I am in the process of finishing up the Folkwear Victorian
>Walking Skirt pattern.  This skirt is from the end of the 19th century.  Do
>I need to wear it with some sort of small bustle/pad to make it look right?
>If so, I came across the following picture on the Web,
>http://www.ourtownusa.net/~wodnhors/3b12.jpg, and am wondering if this is
>the kind of bustle I should look for.
>
>Thanks from a beginning costumer.
>
>Karen


Karen,

I made this pattern up in the late 70s when it was fairly new and I was
thinner  (just a caveat in case they've updated/changed the pattern at all
- plus I didn't have the padding I have now).  At the time, I didn't need
any extra bustle or padding to make it look right.  The gathering in the
back is very slight and seemed to be enough to give it the look required.
I seem to recall that Folkwear makes their patterns from existing period
clothing.  I can't imagine they would change it too much; they are proud of
the fact that their patterns produce authentic clothing.  I also don't
think they'd require a bustle they don't offer a pattern of.

I loved my skirts.  I made one for summer in cotton drill, one for winter
in a forest green wool, both full length.  Then I made a bunch in different
prints and solids to wear for daily wear in mid-calf length.  I always felt
elegant in them.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 11:10:42 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 11:34:59 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: bustle question
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

Karen--

This dress is not intended to be worn with a bustle. Bustle gowns were in 
the 1870's and 1880's. The walking skirt is suitable for 1890-1910. It does 
tend to have all the fullness gathered at the back, rather than evenly all 
the way around, as in a dirndl skirt.

I can't recall if the pattern mentions it, but you need to reinforce the 
hem in some way if you plan to wear the skirt much. A heavy tape or braid 
or fringe may be attached to take the wear instead of the skirt edge. if 
your skirt is lined, you can face the entire hem with flannel, attaching 
the top of the facing to the lining only.

Kim


At 07:32 AM 12/22/1999 -0800, you wrote:

>-Poster: "Karen Stefanik" <kmste@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi everyone.  I am in the process of finishing up the Folkwear Victorian 
>Walking Skirt pattern.  This skirt is from the end of the 19th 
>century.  Do I need to wear it with some sort of small bustle/pad to make 
>it look right?
>If so, I came across the following picture on the Web, 
>http://www.ourtownusa.net/~wodnhors/3b12.jpg, and am wondering if this is 
>the kind of bustle I should look for.
>
>Thanks from a beginning costumer.
>
>Karen
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 11:10:44 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 12:34:46 EST
Subject: H-COST: Gene Marshall doll
To: h-costume@indra.net
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-Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com

Hello list!

Being a lurker most times, I just had to spout out now. Last night I was 
browsing through FAO Schwartz and happened upon the most remarkable fashion 
doll - Gene Marshall. Details about Ms. Marshall can be had at the below 
link. I would love to know if any of you have any experience with her - 
personally I think I'm in love! The Hollywood Glamour of the 1930-40's is one 
of my favorite periods.

http://www.fritzgifts.com/gene-marshall-by-mel-odom/gene-marshall-by-mel-odom.
tpl

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
So many books, so little time

"Hard work is the accumulation of the easy things you didn't do when you 
should have." 
                -Anonymous

schmitt100@aol.com
**********************

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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 11:15:45 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 11:40:25 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: H-COST: book discovery
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

I've just been browsing through a wonderful book. It's so good, I'm amazed 
my local library has it, but that's where I found it.

The Way We Wore
Styles of the 1930s and '40s
Shown and Recalled by Hollywood's Star of the Golden Age of Movies
Marsha Hunt

Fallbrook Publishing, Fallbrook, CA copyright 1993

ISBN 1-882747-00-3

If you don't recall this star, it's probably because she was one of the 
victims of McCarthy's witch hunt, and was blacklisted along with many other 
actors and writers in the 1950s.

The book is full of large, professional photos. The costumes are amazing. 
There are sections on hairstyles and hats as well. And the author's 
commentary is well written and amusing.

A must for anyone interested in the '30s or '40s.

Kim
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 11:47:23 1999
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From: Julie Brautigan <jab@uwm.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Gene Marshall doll
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-Poster: Julie Brautigan <jab@uwm.edu>

Hi Rebecca,

Isn't Gene great?  I have five of the dolls and several costumes.  I also sew
garments for her.  I think if I won a lottery, I'd buy everything related to her!
Do you know they have furniture for her, too?

Julie

Schmitt100@aol.com wrote:

> -Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com
>
> Hello list!
>
> Being a lurker most times, I just had to spout out now. Last night I was
> browsing through FAO Schwartz and happened upon the most remarkable fashion
> doll - Gene Marshall. Details about Ms. Marshall can be had at the below
> link. I would love to know if any of you have any experience with her -
> personally I think I'm in love! The Hollywood Glamour of the 1930-40's is one
> of my favorite periods.
>
> http://www.fritzgifts.com/gene-marshall-by-mel-odom/gene-marshall-by-mel-odom.
> tpl
>
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> So many books, so little time
>
> "Hard work is the accumulation of the easy things you didn't do when you
> should have."
>                 -Anonymous
>
> schmitt100@aol.com
> **********************
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME





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From: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
Organization: College of Business & Economics
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 11:23:04 -0700
Subject: Re: H-COST: Two gown questions
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-Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>

> Now, if only someone would ask me about French and
> Flemish influences on English fasion at the beginning
> of the Tudor dynasty. . . . ;->

Ok, Valerie! I want to hear!


Linda Yordy
Phone: 208/426-4034
Boise State University
Center for Management Development
1910 University Drive
Boise, ID  83725-1660
********************************************************
Yordy's Law #3: When wearing white, apply your lunch 
directly to your shirt -- it will end up there anyway.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 12:27:33 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 10:53:24 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> This second dress is one a friend of mine would like,
> http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/text/Cavalier/CO10.html
> and she's wondering what kind of fabric the jacket would be made of. We are
> figuring it would be worn over a corset, would the collar be attached to the
> dress or the jacket? Oh, and any hints on the hat and hair style??

Well, this is my best take on it.  The jacket is probably a linen ground with
metal and silk embroidery, braid stitch, detached buttonhole etc.  And lots of
it!  The same for the coif.  This particular coif is called 'cheeks and ears' I
think.  The ruff/collar probably attaches with hooks to the jacket on the
inside.  Don't know about the skirt or the hair..

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 12:49:01 1999
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From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
To: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>, h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

 Ok, here is my best idea.

The jacket is similar to ones illustrated with scale patterns in 
Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion, 1560-1620.  While the 
embrodiered pattern is very similar to the jackets illustrated in 
Arnold's(was this from an Elizabethan-Jacobean pattern book--I've 
seen designs very much like this on several surviving jackets and 
portraits), the shape is different--being more elongated and fitted 
to the figure with sleeve ends belled out more than Arnold's 
illustrations and patterns.  The neck is a V rather than round and 
the standing half ruff was probably pinned in place with a supportase 
to keep it in place.  The skirt looks finely quilted or patterned and 
probably had a modest hip pad to hold the shape(see Hunnisett's 
"Period Costume for Stage and Screen" for various hip pads and 
farthingales).
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 13:02:29 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 13:27:19 -0600 (EST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Threads magazine
In-Reply-To: <00b101bf4c51$87d04ae0$6834fea9@gunsafes>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

Have you tried Taunton press? Or even Ebay? I have been able to get past
copies of what I needed that way before. Even if it is not on sale on ebay
the sellers have stashes and are selling them one at a time. Ask them for
that copy and see. Also, I have found many copies of Threads at half price
books. :)

Taunton Press: http://www.taunton.com/th/index.htm

Really cool website too!

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Tue, 21 Dec 1999, Michelle wrote:

> Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 23:52:42 -0800
> From: Michelle <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: Threads magazine
> 
> Does anyone have a copy of the Threads issue that has the Kimono layout? I wrote down the information on it and our library doesn't have it.  The only one who gets that magazine that I know, is my mother and she doesn't have that particular issue.  I am stuck. I can't find it.
>    As per a recent post, it is in issue #32, which is dated Dec 90/Jan 91. Is anyone willing to mail me photocopies? Please?
> 
> Michelle
> 

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From: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 15:12:43 -0500
Subject: Re: H-COST: Two gown questions
Priority: normal
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-Poster: "Jessica Wilbur" <jessica@pop.net>



> 
> -Poster: "Linda Yordy" <abuyordy@cobfac.BoiseState.edu>
> 
> > Now, if only someone would ask me about French and
> > Flemish influences on English fasion at the beginning
> > of the Tudor dynasty. . . . ;->
> 
> Ok, Valerie! I want to hear!

I hate to say it... I know it's poor netiquette... but... 

Me too!

Sorry!
--Jessica, ducking for cover
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 14:54:39 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 16:19:33 -0500
From: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>
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-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Consumers' Reports liked the newer Dryel sheets.  The only caveat was
that the odor was perfumey, wine stains weren't completely removed, and
a cotton sweater didn't lose the stains as well as silk and wool items. 
Apparently the product will be reformulated in March to improve it
more.  The write-up was in the January 2000 edition, Products Updates
section, pg. 48.
-- 
Janice Dallas
Boston,MA area, USA
JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
"Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 14:58:06 1999
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From: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <010701bf4c23$dee3ca60$70e6173f@oemcomputer> <38614065.FE7B93D9@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dry Cleaning at home
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 14:23:14 -0700
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-Poster: "Frank A Thallas Jr" <hardcorps@vcn.com>

  I've tried these on several jackets that needed "freshening" more than
anything
else, and found they work pretty well on removing the "I've been in the back
of the
closet for 8 months" smell.....
    One problem I found was that the bag in which you place the items is
rather small
for bulky things, and you may not get as much "tumbling" action as you
need....

    Liadain

> Consumers' Reports liked the newer Dryel sheets.  The only caveat was
> that the odor was perfumey, wine stains weren't completely removed, and
> a cotton sweater didn't lose the stains as well as silk and wool items.
> Apparently the product will be reformulated in March to improve it
> more.  The write-up was in the January 2000 edition, Products Updates
> section, pg. 48.
> --
> Janice Dallas
> Boston,MA area, USA
> JaniceDals@MediaOne.net
> "Just so, the girl has beauty, virtue, wit..."
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 15:16:37 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 05:54:12 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Yes! - I've worn historical costume to work on a couple of different
occasions.  Both were 12th Century gowns.  I wore them because before work I
was handing out fliers for a medeival faire, and was going to be doing the
same at lunchtime.  May as wear well it all day.

So I did - complete with headpiece and veil.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

>

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From: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>
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-Poster: Charlene Charette <charlene@flash.net>

Michelle wrote:

> Does anyone have a copy of the Threads issue that has the Kimono
> layout? I wrote down the information on it and our library doesn't
> have it.  The only one who gets that magazine that I know, is my
> mother and she doesn't have that particular issue.  I am stuck. I
> can't find it.   As per a recent post, it is in issue #32, which is
> dated Dec 90/Jan 91. Is anyone willing to mail me photocopies?
> Please? Michelle

Check with your library's interlibrary loan department.  Magazine
articles can often be ordered for the price of copying.

--Charlene

--
You don't stop laughing because you grow old; you grow old because you
stop laughing.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 16:22:38 1999
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-Poster: MissMela@aol.com

In a message dated 12/21/1999 11:34:55 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
Mandrake@Celtic.com writes:

<< As per a recent post, it is in issue #32, which is dated DEC 90/Jan 91. Is 
anyone willing to mail me photocopies? Please? >>
Michelle, I located mine and as I am going to be at the Xerox machine next 
week, I'll make a copy for you if it is for your personal use. Please email 
me your address so I can send it. Mela
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 16:05:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Tippets/Gates of Hell
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

I don't think I've ever seen a picture of this; are
tippets ever worn at the same time as a Gates of Hell?
 Thanks.

=====
Morgaine of Glastonbury 
Barony of Aquaterra MoAS
Kingdom of An Tir
lady_gawain@yahoo.com

Don't take your organs to Heaven; Heaven knows we need them here.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 17:59:11 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 14:25:14 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Santa Cloths
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings Your Excellency Albra,

I'm sorry, I've been so swamped with other things that I've fallen behind on
reading the list and I only just noticed this:

> Part of the reason why we love you, Deitmar:)

Thanks for the compliment. <blush>

I'm looking forward to seeing you at Twelfth Night.

Happy holidays and best wishes for the new year,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 18:15:26 1999
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From: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Cc: SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tippets/Gates of Hell
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-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 22 Dec 1999, Kristen Morgaine Sieber wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
> 
> I don't think I've ever seen a picture of this; are
> tippets ever worn at the same time as a Gates of Hell?
>  Thanks.
> 
I can't say I've ever seen them worn together, of course there's 
always the exception that proves the rule :-) Has anyone tried
wearing them together? I imagine they'd get in the way of one
another.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 18:53:27 1999
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From: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Tippets/Gates of Hell
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 17:19:37 -0800
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-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>

Ummmm...what in God's name is this thread about?  Just when I think I've
filed away all of the costume terminology I can possibly fit into the pit of
despair that is my brain...something else jumps out that has to be stuffed
in there as well.  What's a tippet (I have a feeling I'm picturing something
entirely different-part of a) and what's a Gates of Hell (I *know* I'm
picturing something entirely different here).  

-----Original Message-----
From: The Purple Elephant [mailto:csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au]
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 1999 4:39 PM
To: Historic Costume
Cc: SCA-Garb list
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tippets/Gates of Hell



-Poster: The Purple Elephant <csmart@physics.adelaide.edu.au>

On Wed, 22 Dec 1999, Kristen Morgaine Sieber wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
> 
> I don't think I've ever seen a picture of this; are
> tippets ever worn at the same time as a Gates of Hell?
>  Thanks.
> 
I can't say I've ever seen them worn together, of course there's 
always the exception that proves the rule :-) Has anyone tried
wearing them together? I imagine they'd get in the way of one
another.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Claire F. Clarke       "What is this world if, full of care, 
Physicist, writer,     We have no time to stand and stare?"
and non environmentally                     Robert Louis Stevenson
friendly substance.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 19:36:05 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 18:01:32 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Tippets/Gates of Hell
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: Heidi Fox <hfox@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Ummmm...what in God's name is this thread about?  Just when I think I've
>filed away all of the costume terminology I can possibly fit into the pit of
>despair that is my brain...something else jumps out that has to be stuffed
>in there as well.  What's a tippet (I have a feeling I'm picturing something
>entirely different-part of a) and what's a Gates of Hell (I *know* I'm
>picturing something entirely different here).

A "Gates of Hell" is an SCAism for a sideless surcoat. Tippets are 
garment bits that encircle one's upper arm, with a long dangly bit 
that hangs down off it and flutters as one moves. They are worn with 
dresses (cotehardies? kirtles?) with fairly tight fitting sleeves, 
over the sleeves.

As one currently primarily involved in historic Near Eastern 
costuming, i don't own any of the above mentioned garments :-)

Lilinah
SCA'ly known as Anahita

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 22 19:43:40 1999
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From: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dry Cleaning at home
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 21:12:59 -0500
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-Poster: "Joel Thompson" <sleipnir@gateway.net>

Many thanks to everyone for their insights on this product.  I get the feeling that they are probably ok for some small lightly soiled mundane items, but aren't going to be of much help with large full-skirted gowns. Oh well, at least we now have Febreze to help squeak out a few extra miles between cleanings.  Ain't technology wonderful!?!  

Happy Holidays everyone!  No matter your personal beliefs, this is the season to be with friends and celebrate. So let the party begin!  (but safely, of course!)

Linda Rice




-Poster: Janice Dallas <janicedals@mediaone.net>

Consumers' Reports liked the newer Dryel sheets.  The only caveat was
that the odor was perfumey, wine stains weren't completely removed, and
a cotton sweater didn't lose the stains as well as silk and wool items. 
Apparently the product will be reformulated in March to improve it
more.  The write-up was in the January 2000 edition, Products Updates
section, pg. 48.


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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.9912221325160.18399-100000@fnord.io.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Threads magazine
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 14:56:28 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

Thank you for the suggestions, Ches and Charlene.  I have received two
offers for photocopying, in my private mail.  (Thank you both!)  If I find,
once I see
the copies that I have to have the whole issue, I now know where to look.
You guys are wonderful!

Michelle
-----------------------------------
Check with your library's interlibrary loan department.  Magazine
articles can often be ordered for the price of copying.

--Charlene

> -Poster: ches@io.com
>
> Have you tried Taunton press? Or even Ebay? I have been able to get past
> copies of what I needed that way before. Even if it is not on sale on ebay
> the sellers have stashes and are selling them one at a time. Ask them for
> that copy and see. Also, I have found many copies of Threads at half price
> books. :)
> Sincerely,
> F. Havas
> ches@io.com
> >    As per a recent post, it is in issue #32, which is dated Dec 90/Jan
91. Is anyone willing to mail me photocopies? Please?
> >
> > Michelle



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 23 07:38:16 1999
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From: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: TOPSY TURVY: Mike Leigh (director) interview
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 06:07:05 -0800
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-Poster: Betsy Perry <betsyp@roguewave.com>

http://www.salon.com/ent/col/srag/1999/12/23/leigh/index.html 

I am completely charmed.  Here's what Leigh has to say about costuming:

Q: So many conventional period films seem to get the
physicality wrong. 

They don't wear corsets! They don't wear corsets! So they don't
have the right silhouette. The question is, "How do you make
something 'contemporary' -- i.e., for us?" My own feeling is that
you don't succeed in doing that by compromising, because then it's
neither one thing or the other. What we've tried to do is to say,
"OK, let's really go for it." And then the texture comes alive and
becomes as contemporary as anything. After all, if you could take
a movie camera and get into a time machine and go back there and
film the reality, it would be much more alive than anything that you
would achieve by half-reconstructing it. 

---
Elizabeth Hanes Perry
Rogue Wave Software 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 23 08:13:41 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 08:31:58 -0600
From: Mary <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>
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-Poster: Mary <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>

I realize this probably isnt' the correct newslist, but it is as close
as I can find.
I am looking for information on a magazine known as The Lacemaker.  Does
anyone know about this magazine and/or where to find it???

Also...my best wishes for an enjoyable and loving holiday season for you
and yours.



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 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 23 09:46:33 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 11:10:32 EST
Subject: H-COST: ebay not-quite-corset
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

This garment, which I believe is available from Lane Bryant catalogs, is up 
on ebay.  It is essentially a power net slip with boning in a v shape in 
front only.  This may be some sort of answer for the person wanting something 
to wear with modern clothes, but I have never actually seen one of these in a 
store.  At least with the casings in place, one could substitute sturdier 
bones if desired.  This particular one is a size 38, new stock I think.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=224202118
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 23 10:00:43 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 10:25:47 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

JPMcTeer@aol.com wrote:
> 
> This garment, which I believe is available from Lane Bryant catalogs,
> is up on ebay.  It is essentially a power net slip with boning in a v
> shape in front only.  This may be some sort of answer for the person
> wanting something to wear with modern clothes, but I have never
> actually seen one of these in a store.  At least with the casings in
> place, one could substitute sturdier bones if desired.  This
> particular one is a size 38, new stock I think.

I have one of these... works decently... rather like the tummy tucker
slips and such they have in the stores.

Kat
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3862325E.D4FE1EF2@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: looking for magazine
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 10:54:15 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>



>
> -Poster: Mary <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>
>
> I realize this probably isnt' the correct newslist, but it is as close
> as I can find.
> I am looking for information on a magazine known as The Lacemaker.  Does
> anyone know about this magazine and/or where to find it???

  I am sorry, I cannot help you directly. I do not have any information
about the magazine but, I have a suggestion for you.  There is another list
called "H-Needlework."  You may want to try it, if no one can help you here.
Email me privately and I will get you the address for it, if you need it.

Michelle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 23 13:12:55 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Dunstable Bonnet
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 14:36:32 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Someone wrote me and asked what is a victorian dunstable bonnet.  I have no
idea... I am sure one of you may know...  someone care to explain, please.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 13:50:31 -0600 (EST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: looking for magazine
In-Reply-To: <3862325E.D4FE1EF2@hotmail.com>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

http://www.arachne.com/

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Thu, 23 Dec 1999, Mary wrote:

> Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 08:31:58 -0600
> From: Mary <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: H-COST: looking for magazine
> 
> 
> -Poster: Mary <gwenvyre@hotmail.com>
> 
> I realize this probably isnt' the correct newslist, but it is as close
> as I can find.
> I am looking for information on a magazine known as The Lacemaker.  Does
> anyone know about this magazine and/or where to find it???
> 
> Also...my best wishes for an enjoyable and loving holiday season for you
> and yours.
> 
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 23 17:53:26 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
From: karolee@fenris.net (Karolee Smiley)
Subject: Re: H-COST: Tippets/Gates of Hell
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-Poster: karolee@fenris.net (Karolee Smiley)

>-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
>
>I don't think I've ever seen a picture of this; are
>tippets ever worn at the same time as a Gates of Hell?
> Thanks.

Although I don't have my resources next to me, I have a picture of an
effigy of a later style Gates with tippets.  I know I've seen other
pictures too.  I used to were this style in my youth (when it was more
flattering...when any style was more flattering..than now).  I never had
any problem with the sleeves and the dress.  Although, I wasn't using
period fabrics back then either.  After Christmas, I'll dig through my
books and find you a reference if you like.

Karolee Smiley
Kaitlin MacPherson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 24 14:10:56 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999 15:34:10 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wearing costume to work
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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

In a message dated 12/22/1999 04:23:47 Pacific Standard Time, 
teddy1@mdx.ac.uk writes:

<< > An aside, has anyone on this list actually worn historical costume
 > to work? And what was the reaction? 
  >>
As my nod to the turning of the millennium, I'm planning on wearing a suit 
from the turn of the last century (my version of y2K non-compliance!) to work 
on Jan 3 (my birthday).  I'll let you know the results!

Although I recently wore it to a Bar Mitzvah, and got hired to make a wedding 
gown for the daughter of an old friend as a result.

angela

+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume Design
"If we shadows have offended, think but this,  and all is mended,
That you have but slumbered here, while these visions did appear."
A Midsummer Night's Dream; V, ii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK: http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL: http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 24 14:36:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999 20:58:54 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

> 
> Would you be willing to name the books and page numbers I'm sure others as
> well as I would love to see these.
I'll excavate the pile of stuff I've put in the corner as an attempt at
a christmas tidy up and get the details

Dawn
>


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 24 14:38:53 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999 12:45:08 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I wanted a dummy and couldn't afford it and anyway where I was living in the
country there wasn't anything.
So I got a blow-up sex doll!  It had a horrid mouth that I couldn't live
with so I put vampire teeth in it from Halloween.   Then I got to dress it
up in different costumes and lots of hats and it was really wonderful.  
Mostly dresses from the thrift store.
Its name was BART!
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
>To: <h-costume@indra.com>
>Subject: Re: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?
>Date: Sat, Dec 18, 1999, 10:55 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
>
>
>
>>
>> -Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
>>
>>
>> >Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.
>> ROFL!  My boss is staring.... back to work...
>> --cin
>
>Did that come from Mythology?  Euphrosyne is one of Zeus's daughters, part
>of an uncommon 3 graces.
>
>Michelle
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 24 20:30:29 1999
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Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999 18:46:27 -0800
From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



A late entry into this catagory.  I would love to lose the weight, and
do the Ice Man.  The most primitive costume, fur and woven GRASS, with a
copper headed hatchet?  I have long thought that an accurate Iceman
costume would be really impressive.

Not exactly something to Waltz in, but impressive, nonetheless.

Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 25 11:59:39 1999
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Date: Sat, 25 Dec 1999 12:24:04 -0600
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Dream costume?
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-Poster: Kim Baird <kimbaird@uswest.net>

Yes, please, Russell! I'd like to see it!

Kim


At 06:46 PM 12/24/1999 -0800, you wrote:

>-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
>
>
>
>A late entry into this catagory.  I would love to lose the weight, and
>do the Ice Man.  The most primitive costume, fur and woven GRASS, with a
>copper headed hatchet?  I have long thought that an accurate Iceman
>costume would be really impressive.
>
>Not exactly something to Waltz in, but impressive, nonetheless.
>
>Russell Hedges
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sat Dec 25 21:46:42 1999
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Date: Sat, 25 Dec 1999 20:12:02 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: slightly OT corsets
In-Reply-To: <386010AD.E731B3B4@serv.net>
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

At 03:43 PM 21/12/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>I get it!  You're talking about wearing a corset on *top* of your
clothing?  I
>thought we were talking about wearing a corset *under* your clothing.  A boss
>isn't likely to see or know the latter.  I can't see how wearing specific
>undergarments would be even detected if they were *under* your clothing.  :)

umm... depends on what kind of clothing you wear over it, and what kinda
boss you have. :D
When I wear a suit jacket over my corset, people don't notice it as much as
when I wear a tshirt over it. Go figure :]
Of course, my corset has a 7" waist reduction. Most people can tell I'm
wearing it just because of the figure change..

Kris
who'd love to find an excuse to wear it over her clothing.. maybe at the
next SCA event, I'll go totally OOP.. heheh..

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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Phoenix dress
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 05:09:50 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

I lost the post where someone asked for information on the phoenix dress. I
have a scanned image of it so if you would e-mail me, I'll send it to you.

Kassandra

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From: "Joseph & Christine" <malruck@rma.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.6ea25254.259532c2@aol.com>
Subject: H-COST: Highlander's Short Jacket
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 16:36:45 -0500
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-Poster: "Joseph & Christine" <malruck@rma.edu>

Esteemed List,

Does anyone know of a pattern for the 18th C Highlander's short jacket, as
shown in the Johan Christian Leopold sketch?
For those with the Osprey books "18th Century Highlanders" or "Highland
Clansman: 1689-1746 it's on page14 of the former and page11 of the latter.
Also, does anyone know the date of this sketch, which shows three views of a
Highlander?

Thanks in advance,

Joseph Ruckman

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 17:37:11 1999
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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Patterned Handwoven Fabrics
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

In the last few months there have been a number of postings about
handweaving complex patterned fabrics. The Royal Ontario Museum has a
webpage that describes some weavers still producing hand-woven fabrics for
weddings in Fez, Morrocco. One of the pages shows a draw-loom on which a
popular bouquet pattern is being woven; the description says that it takes a
day for the weaver and his assistant to weave a meter. There is another page
that shows a picture of a handloom for very wide fabrics that requires two
people to operate; on this loom the weavers can produce about 3 meters per day.

http://www.rom.on.ca/pub/fez/

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 18:15:36 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 19:39:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Highlander's Short Jacket
In-Reply-To: <020d01bf4fe9$54edad20$e50c97ce@JosephChristine>
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-Poster: Kevin & Mara Riley <lindo@Radix.Net>

The people I know who've made such a jacket use the J. P. Ryan pattern for
the Waistcoat that comes in two lengths and with or without sleeves. I
believe you can get her patterns from James Townsend's
(http://www.jastown.com), or visit her website at www.jpryan.com.  You can
shorten the waistcoat as you see fit.

Mara


On Sun, 26 Dec 1999, Joseph & Christine wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Joseph & Christine" <malruck@rma.edu>
> 
> Esteemed List,
> 
> Does anyone know of a pattern for the 18th C Highlander's short jacket, as
> shown in the Johan Christian Leopold sketch?
> For those with the Osprey books "18th Century Highlanders" or "Highland
> Clansman: 1689-1746 it's on page14 of the former and page11 of the latter.
> Also, does anyone know the date of this sketch, which shows three views of a
> Highlander?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Joseph Ruckman
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 20:10:56 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 18:35:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Samite?
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

Okay, did samite really exist?  And if it did/does,
what is it?  I've always envisioned a sort of raw
silk, but now it seems that appreciation of raw silk
is a fairly new concept?  Thanks.

Kristen Sieber

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 20:12:25 1999
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Subject: H-COST: can you give me the listing for these sites
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-Poster: Mezarale@aol.com

i am looking for the web site that rates a pattern and tells how good or how 
bad it is 

i am also looking for the corset pattern generator somehow i managed to loose 
these links 

Thanks
jonica
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 20:36:52 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Thanks for the help . . . 
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-Poster: Mezarale@aol.com

I just wanted to write and say thank you to all the people that helped me 
pick out a cotehardie for my boyfriend to wear to an SCA event, and for the 
advice that you gave to me.  (I know it was a long time ago . . . it took 
about 5 fitting for the muslem to fit him exactly right.)  It turned out 
beautiful . . . burgundy velvet  with lots of buttons and cream colored hose. 
 He did not know exactly what to make of it at first but after many 
complements on how it looked on him he decided that he really liked it.  

Thanks for the encouragement and for all the remarks about all types of 
sewing that helped me to understand that this was really possible and that I 
really could do this.  I guess what I am trying to say is thanks for helping 
me to realize that there was a lot more than putting a pattern together to 
sewing :)

Now I will go back to lurking and hearing about everyone's projects
Happy Holiday
Jonica 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 21:34:47 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: can you give me the listing for these sites
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:37 PM 12/26/99 EST, Mezarale@aol.com wrote:
>
>-Poster: Mezarale@aol.com
>
>i am looking for the web site that rates a pattern and tells how good or how 
>bad it is 

This is part of the Greater Bay Area Costumers' Guild website:

http://www.toreadors.com/costume/patterns/index.html

>i am also looking for the corset pattern generator somehow i managed to loose 
>these links 

Drea's website is at http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/general.html

>Thanks
>jonica

Hope these help,

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 21:34:50 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: can you give me the listing for these sites
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 09:37 PM 12/26/99 EST, Mezarale@aol.com wrote:
>
>-Poster: Mezarale@aol.com
>
>i am looking for the web site that rates a pattern and tells how good or how 
>bad it is 

This is part of the Greater Bay Area Costumers' Guild website:

http://www.toreadors.com/costume/patterns/index.html

>i am also looking for the corset pattern generator somehow i managed to loose 
>these links 

Drea's website is at http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/general.html

>Thanks
>jonica

Hope these help,

Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Samite?
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-Poster: Joan M Jurancich <joanj@quiknet.com>

At 06:35 PM 12/26/99 -0800, Kristen Morgaine Sieber wrote:
>
>-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
>
>Okay, did samite really exist?  And if it did/does,
>what is it?  I've always envisioned a sort of raw
>silk, but now it seems that appreciation of raw silk
>is a fairly new concept?  Thanks.
>
>Kristen Sieber

Yes, SAMITE did exist. In the OED (Oxford English Dictionary), the entry for
SAMITE describes it as "A rich silk fabric worn in the Middle Ages,
sometimes interwoven with gold." In the etymology of the word (which has a
long history), the medieval German name literally translates as
"six-threaded". As quoted in the OED, this is explained in the Encyclopedia
Britannica XXIII, 210/1, to mean that it 'was so-called because the weft
threads were only caught and looped at every sixth thread of the warp, lying
loosely on the intermediate part.'  

[note from Joan] This description is of a type of satin weave if the
treadling is not regular or a 5-1 twill weave if the treadling is regular;
woven with fine threads, either way it would be a lovely shiny, soft fabric.
I don't know what type of modern fabric would be a reasonable substitute.
Crepe-backed satin is probably too stiff. 


Joan Jurancich
Sacramento, CA
joanj@quiknet.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 22:11:07 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 16:28:25 -0800
To: Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Fwd: Nuns 
Cc: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

           
>   I don't know how useful this monograph may be in terms of
habits/veiling, but
>here's the bibliographic citation for it:
>   LCCN:99-36044  UKCN:GB99-X0368 ISBN:0851157505 (hbk. : alk.
paper):$50.00UK 
>LC Call#:BX4278.C35 C37 1999  Dewey Decimal#: 271/.97 2 21
>   The cartulary of Chatteris Abbey / edited by Claire Breay.  x, 479 p. :
ill., maps ; 24 cm.
>Based on the author's thesis (doctoral)--University of London. Includes
bibliographical 
>references (p. [423]-433) and index. 1. Chatteris Abbey--History--Sources.
2. Church lands--
>England--Cambridgeshire--History--Sources. 3. Benedictine
nuns--England--Cambridgeshire--
>History--Sources. 4. Cambridgeshire (England)--Church history--Sources. 5.
Cartularies.
>I. Breay, Claire, 1968- II.  Chatteris Abbey. -- Carol / Gra/inne

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 22:12:33 1999
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From: "Lecelina O'Brian Of Mount Shannon" <lecelina@hotmail.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?
Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 20:37:15 PST
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-Poster: "Lecelina O'Brian Of Mount Shannon" <lecelina@hotmail.com>

I thought you would either all  laugh at Me and  "My dummy"  or everyone 
stone  we with their irons.  The story of " VAMPIRE
Dummy" makes me realize  some of you may laugh.  So  I will share......... 
My mannequins name is  Betty the Bruiser,  and a TOUGH gal  she is.  I fight 
heavy armored fighting in the SCA when I was learning to fight I  set her in 
front of the full length mirror and practiced my shots.  Now before anyone 
brands me  to cruelty know this.....I was practicing my tip control  so  I 
only TOUCHED her with my sword.  Let me tell YOU the next  time  your 
Mannequin gets out of line get out the armor. THEY are tough to kill!!

Lecelina

-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

I wanted a dummy and couldn't afford it and anyway where I was living in the
country there wasn't anything.
So I got a blow-up sex doll!  It had a horrid mouth that I couldn't live
with so I put vampire teeth in it from Halloween.   Then I got to dress it
up in different costumes and lots of hats and it was really wonderful.
Mostly dresses from the thrift store.
Its name was BART!
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
 >From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
 >To: <h-costume@indra.com>
 >Subject: Re: H-COST: ...So what's your dummy's name?
 >Date: Sat, Dec 18, 1999, 10:55 AM
 >

 >
 >-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
 >
 >
 >
 >>
 >> -Poster: Cynthia Barnes <Cynthia_Barnes@Phoenix.com>
 >>
 >>
 >> >Wow...I like the name Euphrosnia *much* better than Headless Sue.
 >> ROFL!  My boss is staring.... back to work...
 >> --cin
 >
 >Did that come from Mythology?  Euphrosyne is one of Zeus's daughters, part
 >of an uncommon 3 graces.
 >
 >Michelle
 >
 > _________________________________________________________________
 > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Sun Dec 26 22:21:26 1999
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From: HighlndLss@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 23:46:03 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Highlander's Short Jacket
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-Poster: HighlndLss@aol.com

Joseph,

If you look carefully at that jacket, you will see that it is basically your 
common sleeved waistcoat, with turned back sleeve. Look at the picture in the 
Osprey 18th Century Highlanders, page A of the colored illustrations, (# 2 
shows the back) and it's very similar. So were you to take any pattern, it 
could be easily adapted. 

Hope this helps,
Susan K.
42nd RHR


In a message dated 12/26/99 4:43:33 PM, malruck@rma.edu writes:

<< Esteemed List,


Does anyone know of a pattern for the 18th C Highlander's short jacket, as

shown in the Johan Christian Leopold sketch?

For those with the Osprey books "18th Century Highlanders" or "Highland

Clansman: 1689-1746 it's on page14 of the former and page11 of the latter.

Also, does anyone know the date of this sketch, which shows three views of a

Highlander?


Thanks in advance,


Joseph Ruckman

 >>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 03:18:20 1999
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From: "Joseph & Christine" <malruck@rma.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <Pine.SV4.3.96.991226193613.6421A-100000@saltmine.radix.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Highlander's Short Jacket
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 04:36:29 -0500
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-Poster: "Joseph & Christine" <malruck@rma.edu>

Mara, Susan K. & List,

Thanks, I do have several coat and waistcoat patterns and adapting them is
essentially what I'm doing for the moment.  I'm looking for a pattern based
on any surviving Highland jackets, as there are a couple of details that are
not clear from the sketch - one is where the back & side panels come
together at the bottom - I'm doing them like the tail of an early coat, only
shorter, but I'm not certain if this is right.  The other is the turn backs
of the cuffs in conjuntion with the buttoned "marine" cuff - not exactly
sure how that works either, but I'll figure something out.  This is my first
attempt at this particular garment, and I'd like to get it right if I can -
though if there are no patterns based on extant examples, I guess one
interpretation of the sketches is as good as the next, at least until I can
go back to Scotland and find an original to examine.

Thanks again,

Joseph Ruckman

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 06:49:38 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:17:57 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

I've made this style several times. It is basically the same cut as the
long coat of this period but cut short. It is not the same as the
sleeved waistcoat as they don't have the pleats at the back and if you
don't have the pleats it won't sit over the plaid. I make my own
patterns so don't know of one that works that is commercially available.
The date of the sketch is of the 2nd rebellion period i.e 40-46

Dawn
> 
> Does anyone know of a pattern for the 18th C Highlander's short jacket, as
> shown in the Johan Christian Leopold sketch?
> For those with the Osprey books "18th Century Highlanders" or "Highland
> Clansman: 1689-1746 it's on page14 of the former and page11 of the latter.
> Also, does anyone know the date of this sketch, which shows three views of a
> Highlander?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Joseph Ruckman
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
 Ïà¡±á


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 08:31:01 1999
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
cc: "'savaskan@sd.znet.com'" <savaskan@sd.znet.com>
Subject: H-COST: Those German heavy necklaces?
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 07:56:07 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>

I am referring to the necklaces typical in Cranach portraits of women.  Are
there examples of men wearing them also?  How do folks 'recreate' these?  Or
do they?  They look unimaginably heavy.  This is a picture of one, but I
have seen pictures of ones that look even heavier.
http://www.khm.at/khm/staticE/page755.html

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 09:10:37 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Fwd: Nuns 
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-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com

Thank you, Carol.
          
 >   I don't know how useful this monograph may be in terms of
 habits/veiling, but
 >here's the bibliographic citation for it: >>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Those German heavy necklaces?
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-Poster: kat@grendal.rain.com

 
> I am referring to the necklaces typical in Cranach portraits of women.  Are
> there examples of men wearing them also?  How do folks 'recreate' these?  Or
> do they?  They look unimaginably heavy.  This is a picture of one, but I
> have seen pictures of ones that look even heavier.

The ones I've seen have been in real life have been incredibly thin 
sheets of gold made into loops. Apparently they were used also as 
money in that you could remove loops for that purpose.

I think that if they were made of gold (as opposed to brass or some 
other more brittle metal), they wouldn't necessarily be that heavy.

Kat 

Kat(June Russell)
kat@grendal.rain.com
Heu! Tintinnuntius meus Sonat!
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From: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Those German heavy necklaces?
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:51:16 -0700
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-Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>


<<The ones I've seen have been in real life have been incredibly thin 
sheets of gold made into loops. Apparently they were used also as 
money in that you could remove loops for that purpose.>>

Were the ones you have seen reproductions, or were they 'real'?  The reason
I ask the question is that in the pictures they are not thin.  Perhaps some
were hollow?   The ones in the pictures sometimes look like ropes as big as
your finger.  If they were metal (not hollow) they would be very heavy.

<<I think that if they were made of gold (as opposed to brass or some 
other more brittle metal), they wouldn't necessarily be that heavy.>>

Not that it matters, but gold is way up there on the atomic chart, brass is
just copper and zinc.  I don't think we make anything into jewelry even now
that is heavier.

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From: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Those German heavy necklaces?
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>Were the ones you have seen reproductions, or were they 'real'?  The reason
>I ask the question is that in the pictures they are not thin.  Perhaps some
>were hollow?   The ones in the pictures sometimes look like ropes as big as
>your finger.  If they were metal (not hollow) they would be very heavy.

Virtually identical solid gold rope chains were very popular in the 80's and
early 90's amongst crack dealers and other criminal types and those who
wised to emulate them.  (They may still be, but I don't live where I see
them anymore).  I heard they sold for around $40,000, and were indeed very
heavy.

However, I don't think the heaviness was much of a problem.  Having several
pounds of gold draped over one's shoulders probably isn't any more
uncomfortable than carrying a heavy shoulder bag.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 12:19:52 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:40:31 -0800
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fwd: Nuns 
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

        My pleasure.  I just hope someone finds it useful. cjc

At 10:34 AM 12/27/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: SNSpies@aol.com
>
>Thank you, Carol.
>          
> >   I don't know how useful this monograph may be in terms of
> habits/veiling, but
> >here's the bibliographic citation for it: >>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 15:36:18 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 14:01:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>
Subject: H-COST: Period Pattern #41
To: Historic Costume <h-costume@indra.com>,
        SCA-Garb list <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
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-Poster: Kristen Morgaine Sieber <lady_gawain@yahoo.com>

I saw that the review for this pattern (Italian Ren)
was not too popular with the Greater Bay Costumer's
Guild (the reviewer said a piece was missing and was
near impossible to fit, etc.).  Has anybody on this
list used this pattern?  And what is the opinion of
it?  Thanks.

Kristen M. Sieber
SCA: Morgaine of Glastonbury
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 16:41:58 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 17:35:10 -0500
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From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Gem question
In-Reply-To: <38605809.95034D7B@worldnet.att.net>
References: <385E688E.7D5ACC47@thibault.org>
 <199912170409.UAA12423@apollo.directcon.net>
 <3.0.1.32.19991220071304.0090d590@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>Michelle wrote:
>
>> Treated with what and how?  If this has already been covered and I missed
>> it, sorry. I take it this is more than just a ride through a tumbler, or
>> polisher?

Did you see the list from the Fire Mountain Gems catalogue.  It is pretty
comprehensive so I'm not going to repeat it. <g>

>I'm no expert, but I think blue topaz is actually irradiated brown or
>yellow topaz (I don't recall which).  Subjecting it to radiation makes
>it turn blue. 

This is for the most part true and usually is quite easily idetifyable by
the bright colour.  However, topaz (if I remember correctly) can *rarely*
occur naturally blue.  But, as a good rule of thumb, if it's blue topaz
it's irradiated.

>I think some other stones are also irradiated to change their color. 
>Also some of the more porous stones can be dyed - a lot of "turquoise"
>you see nowadays has actually had the blue added to inferior stone. 

Actually, with turquoise the dye is usually added in a wax form.  Turquoise
is very porous and another stone you have to be careful with chemicals around.

>Opals now are done frequently in thin layers of poorer quality stone and
>backed with black onyx to make them more fiery, and a deeper blue/green
>shade (which is rarer in pure opals) - my motto is if you can't see thru
>the opal, don't buy it as it's probably a triplet.

Opal doublets and triplets aren't necessarily poorer quality, just a very
thin piece that couldn't be used on it's own.  Unless it's in a closed
setting it is usually extremely obvious whether or not it's a doublet or
triplet.  There are many beautiful natural opals which are semi-translucent
at best so, the don't buy it if you can't see through it, isn't necessarily
the best policy.  The exception to that is of course, a closed setting.
However, when it comes to opals, price is frequently a good indication of
the state it's in.

Cheers,
Danielle


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 16:41:59 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 17:48:13 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Tippets/Gates of Hell
In-Reply-To: <v04210102b48731c41b88@[208.225.99.221]>
References: <E540CD75BA03D311927F0008C7917A4C660436@NTXCITY>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>>entirely different-part of a) and what's a Gates of Hell (I *know* I'm
>>picturing something entirely different here).

>A "Gates of Hell" is an SCAism for a sideless surcoat. 

I seem to remember reading *somewhere* that "Gates of Hell" is actually
contemporary nickname for the sideless surcoat.  Derived from the sermons
preached about the excesses in clothing.  

Just my shilling's worth,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 17:12:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 18:39:40 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

My wonderful, DH got me a great book for the holidays.  I recommend it to
all of you with Elizabethan interests.  It shows many detailed colour
photographs of 16th century textiles and needlework.

It is:

Levey, Santina M. "Elizabethan Treasures: The Hardwick Hall Textiles"
First published in Great Britain in 1998 by Th National Trust Enterprises
Ltd.  Distributed in North America by Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York.
ISBN 0-8109-6353-1
Library of Congress # 98-70062

Cheers,
Danielle

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From: "Joseph & Christine" <malruck@rma.edu>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Highlander's Short Jacket
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 18:38:06 -0500
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-Poster: "Joseph & Christine" <malruck@rma.edu>

Thanks, Dawn!

Regards,

Joseph

----- Original Message ----- 
> -Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
> 
> I've made this style several times. It is basically the same cut as the
> long coat of this period but cut short. It is not the same as the
> sleeved waistcoat as they don't have the pleats at the back and if you
> don't have the pleats it won't sit over the plaid. I make my own
> patterns so don't know of one that works that is commercially available.
> The date of the sketch is of the 2nd rebellion period i.e 40-46
> 
> Dawn


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 17:27:37 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 09:54:38 +1100
Message-ID: <LPBBKNMJBFAPBEPPLOBJIEMICFAA.madilayn@one.net.au>
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Danielle

You are sooo lucky to get this book!  I love it and am hoping that some time
in the future somebody nice gives it to me as a gift!

Have fun with it - it is fascinating even to just read! - let alone all the
lovely piccys.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

Visit D'Realm of the Fairies:  http://www.thesitefights.com/fairies

Do you fight?  http://www.thesitefighs.com

>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 18:51:10 1999
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From: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 20:18:03 -0500
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #904
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-Poster: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>

okay, this is a really dumb question/comment, but is anyone else 
receiving truncated digests all of a sudden? I'll be reading along, 
and there'll be a message from Dawn and then some little widgetty 
symbols, and then poof, no more digest! Since I read my costume 
list intermittently (ie, when I have time) its hard to say whether this 
has happened before or not, but here I am with some reading time, 
and several digests over the Christmas spread just stop dead.Its 
absolutely bizarre! And I can't think of any logical reason. But I 
have notice that its happened after "Dawn messages." Not ALL 
Dawn messages, so that's not the reason obviously, but it does 
seem to be her messages at the end of the truncated digests. It 
happened on #900, and #904, and #898, that I know of. Either 
Dawn is all-powerful... or this is weird millenium stuff at work. Did 
anyone get these digest fully? Can they forward to me?

vandy, totally perplexed in Wareham
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 19:07:58 1999
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From: "Ches" <ches@io.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <199912280125.UAA20502@hurontario.net>
Subject: H-COST: digest problems
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 07:32:27 -0600
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-Poster: "Ches" <ches@io.com>

Not sure if this is the reason but it may be and has happened on another
list that I am on a digest for.

Attached files totally screw up a digest, so do email messages in html
format. I had one digest that was nothing but crap because someone attached
a file and the digest was not set to be Mime smart and converted it into
code instead of not adding it.

Sincerely,
FHavas
Dallas, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>
To: <h-costume-digest@indra.com>
Sent: Monday, December 27, 1999 7:18 PM
Subject: H-COST: Re: h-costume-digest V4 #904


>
> -Poster: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>
>
> okay, this is a really dumb question/comment, but is anyone else
> receiving truncated digests all of a sudden? I'll be reading along,
> and there'll be a message from Dawn and then some little widgetty
> symbols, and then poof, no more digest! Since I read my

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 20:24:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 18:50:31 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Those German heavy necklaces?
References: <48B956EEB8ADD311822400902775A73A0733E1@nt15pv.apsc.com>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



"Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Knauf, Saragrace T(Z02001)" <SKNAUF@apsc.com>
> 
> I am referring to the necklaces typical in Cranach portraits of women.  Are
> there examples of men wearing them also?  How do folks 'recreate' these?  Or
> do they?  They look unimaginably heavy.  This is a picture of one, but I
> have seen pictures of ones that look even heavier.
> http://www.khm.at/khm/staticE/page755.html

I was able to buy a reproduction "german" necklace from the Smithsonian
Catalog (or it may have been the Boston Museum of Fine Arts) a  couple
of years ago.  It looks real good and was under $30.  Now all I have to
do is make the german costume to go with it.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 22:15:54 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Two gown questions
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

In a message dated 12/22/99 8:33:35 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
ladybriony@yahoo.com writes:

> the first picture is Bronzino's portrait of Lucrezia
>  Panciatichi (Panziatichi? )
Hi - I looked her portrait up in my brand new (xmas gift!!!) 2 volume set of 
the art of the city of Florence and the first spelling is the correct one!!

Pamela d.

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 22:16:16 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Two gown questions
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

In a message dated 12/22/99 8:33:35 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
ladybriony@yahoo.com writes:

>  (Eleanora of Toledo, with her
>  son; can't remember if it's another Bronzino, 
Yep, its another Bronzino ( its also one of my favorite portraits)

>From Pamela D. who is only refraining from DROOLING over her new collection 
of Florentine artwork because she doesn't want to damage the book..........
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 22:16:17 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <385E688E.7D5ACC47@thibault.org><199912170409.UAA12423@apollo.directcon.net><3.0.1.32.19991220071304.0090d590@mail.interlog.com><4.2.2.19991221112014.00a2e2e0@pop.service.ohio-state.edu><005a01bf4be6$ab11e060$af24fea9@gunsafes> <3.0.1.32.19991227173510.009e48a0@mail.interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Gem question
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 20:52:37 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>


> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>
> Greetings,
>
> >Michelle wrote:
> >
> >> Treated with what and how?  If this has already been covered and I
missed
> >> it, sorry. I take it this is more than just a ride through a tumbler,
or
> >> polisher?
>
> Did you see the list from the Fire Mountain Gems catalogue.  It is pretty
> comprehensive so I'm not going to repeat it. <g>

   Danielle,
  My response was to a comment about garnets and another stone, I can't
remember what.  It was the garnets that I was specifically wondering about.
If you'd be kind enough to forward me to that list you were speaking of,
I'll go look at it.
 Michelle

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Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 23:42:26 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: bustle question
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

In a message dated 12/22/99 7:33:23 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
kmste@hotmail.com writes:

> Hi everyone.  I am in the process of finishing up the Folkwear Victorian 
>  Walking Skirt pattern.  This skirt is from the end of the 19th century.  
Do 
>  I need to wear it with some sort of small bustle/pad to make it look 
right?  
> 
Dear Karen - you don't need the bustle.  I have three of these ( 2 long and 
one street length because I just like the style) and the gathers at the back 
provide the correct drape.

Just my 2.5 drachmas

Pamela D. 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 23:06:01 1999
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-Poster: tuppence@ricochet.net

Hello, I'm going to delurk momentarily...

Forgive me if this has been covered before, but does anyone know where
I can get a man's Regency-type corset pattern? I'm in the process of
taking apart and tracing off (to rebuild) a friend's corset, but some
of the pieces look odd to me.  Perhaps because I'm used to women's
corset patterns? It's also been worn a couple of times, so I think the
fabric _may_ have stretched, but I'm not sure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated - thank you!

Andrea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Mon Dec 27 23:39:03 1999
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From: "Arianne de Dragonnid  mka Grace Payne" <arianne@blackroot.org>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 99 00:53:24 
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-Poster: "Arianne de Dragonnid  mka Grace Payne" <arianne@blackroot.org>

On Sat, 11 Dec 1999 10:10:36 EST, AlbertCat@aol.com wrote:

>>>Another vote for the bustle.  Most women think their butts are too big
> already, why make it huge?
>
>Keep biting! Bustles no more make one's butt look big than panniers make 
>one's hips look big. What they do make one look like is that one is wearing 
>some kind of hooped or padded underpinning to support skirts. I ask you, does 
>anyone over 6 years old ever think these things are flesh???

Well, yes...

I went into a  McDonald's on my way back from an SCA event, and was met by a PRICELESS look of 
amazement on the male cashier's face.  Was it the spiffyness of my garb (my first Elizabethan, and rather nice 
if not perfect) or simply the fact that I was wearing garb instead of modern clothes?  NO!!!  He asked if my 
hips were really that big!!!!!!!  Now I'm no Ally McBeal, but I'd be hard-pressed to lose more than ten pounds 
without looking like I needed some of it back.  My "support garments" DRASTICALLY altered my shape from 
the waist down.  Now the black girl behind the counter with him could have done without the bumroll, but 
then she was a bit heftier than I am...


Yours in the Dream,
	Arianne de Dragonnid

Shire of Castlemere, Kingdom of Trimaris

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

"The founder of my noble line was wont to see Dragons.  His Lady rode out from the forest 
in a gown of samite and was as young on the day he died as on their wedding day."

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 04:25:19 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 05:45:42 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

It is a wonderful book. I had ordered my copy then 2 weeks later, my friend
in England sent me the UK edition. Now I have 2 copies!!

Kassandra NickKraken

-----Original Message-----


-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

My wonderful, DH got me a great book for the holidays.  I recommend it to
all of you with Elizabethan interests.  It shows many detailed colour
photographs of 16th century textiles and needlework.

It is:

Levey, Santina M. "Elizabethan Treasures: The Hardwick Hall Textiles"
First published in Great Britain in 1998 by Th National Trust Enterprises
Ltd.  Distributed in North America by Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York.
ISBN 0-8109-6353-1
Library of Congress # 98-70062

Cheers,
Danielle



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 04:46:12 1999
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Vandy Simpson wrote:
> 
> -Poster: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>
Sorry if I'm causing problems, don't think it's my machine though as I
don't have any problems with the other lists I am on and I send in the
same way.

dawn the all powerful
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 07:26:51 1999
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Subject: H-COST: New Acquisition--Strutt!
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Just wanted to let y'all know:  I just found myself a copy of Strutt's
"Complete View of the Habit and Costume of the the English...etc.,etc.",
the 1775 first edition!  Talk about a christmas present.

Anyway, I recall a conversation about Strutt (later re-published in the
19th century by Planche) and the accuracy of his work, but can't recall
the details. How accurate are his reproduction pictures of period
garments, allowing for 18th century faces & figures?  How large of a grain
of salt should I take when reading the text?

Thanks,

Drea

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 09:53:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 11:16:58 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: bustle question
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/27/99 9:46:42 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
Panmela@aol.com writes:

<< >  I need to wear it with some sort of small bustle/pad to make it look 
 right?  
 > 
 Dear Karen - you don't need the bustle.  I have three of these ( 2 long and 
 one street length because I just like the style) and the gathers at the back 
 provide the correct drape.
  >>
Sometimes a little extra help is indicated.  There is a pattern for a tornure 
in the Janet Arnold Corsets and Crinolines.  We refer to these implements as 
"fanny fluffers" in the theater.  Not sure where that term originated.  I 
have an original one made of springs, covered with muslin from about 1890.

Cheryl Odom
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 10:01:50 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Now the black girl behind the counter with him could have done without the bumroll, but
> then she was a bit heftier than I am...

Is this kind of comment really necessary on a public list?

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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References: <3.0.1.32.19991227183940.0098a610@mail.interlog.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 08:55:47 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
>
>It is a wonderful book. I had ordered my copy then 2 weeks later, my friend
>in England sent me the UK edition. Now I have 2 copies!!
>
>Kassandra NickKraken
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>
>-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>
>Greetings,
>
>My wonderful, DH got me a great book for the holidays.  I recommend it to
>all of you with Elizabethan interests.  It shows many detailed colour
>photographs of 16th century textiles and needlework.
>
>It is:
>
>Levey, Santina M. "Elizabethan Treasures: The Hardwick Hall Textiles"
>First published in Great Britain in 1998 by Th National Trust Enterprises
>Ltd.  Distributed in North America by Harry N. Abrams, Inc., New York.
>ISBN 0-8109-6353-1
>Library of Congress # 98-70062
>
>Cheers,
>Danielle
>
I just got this month's Piecework Magazine last night.  They include an
excerpt from this book with lots of beautiful pictures in it.  AND reviews
of three books of needlework with Elizabethan style needlework designs.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 10:45:47 1999
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From: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: bustle question
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-Poster: Valerie Robertson <ladybriony@yahoo.com>

Janet Arnold Corsets and Crinolines?  I thought Norah
Waugh wrote Corsets and Crinolines?  Wasn't Janet
Arnold's 19th Century book Patterns of Fashion I?
I have the Folkwear pattern too, so I was following
this thread, and now I'm *totally* confused. Can you
tell this isn't my primary era of interest?

--- Cheryldee@aol.com wrote:

There is a pattern for a tornure 
> in the Janet Arnold Corsets and Crinolines.  We
> refer to these implements as 
> "fanny fluffers" in the theater.  


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From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

I received the Historic Fashions-Turning the Centuries 2000 calendar 
and the 17th-19th century notecard set.  Now I've no excuse not to 
make a mantua costume for a doll circa 1700 as January features stays 
and a petticoat. Embroidery is just too fabulous though--I'd like to 
copy it someday.

Most of the fashions shown are, of course, late 1890's to early 
1900's.  Some feature the surviving dress plus a photograph of the 
original wearer in the gown.

As an aside I'm going to give another start to my book or novel on 
the Salem Witchcraft Trials.  While the mantua may have been worn by 
the rich and fashionable in Boston or Salem Town for Sabbath best, 
I've guessed from the surviving drawings of the working class during 
the 1680's in England, that females wore a simpler version of 1670's 
fashionable dress, just before it evolved into the mantua, with 
sometimes a steeple hat or a looped up plain gown or a "jumps" and 
petticoat over a shift.  Do any of you list members know of or can 
point me towards sources that would give me information on what would 
have actually been worn by women and girls in Salem Village and Salem 
Town in 1691-93? Most books use 19th century Victorian 
interpretations that lean heavily towards the "Thanksgiving pilgrims" 
mode of dress(which isn't accurate for the Plymouth Colony, 
necessarily, either).
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 11:52:03 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

I got a book on kumihimo, and a stereo for my studio, which should encourage
me to spend more time there. Also, a copy of Colette Wolf's "The Art Of
Manipulating Fabric", a fabulous book that's already got me planning lots of
new Elizabethan sleeves and partlets.

Oh, yes, and a bright red satin bias cut nightgown, size 2X, that makes me
look like what you'd expect to see if Santa had a floozy on the side.

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 12:02:36 1999
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From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Well, okay, I'll join in.  I got at Pfaff 7570 and a Koala cabinet.  Haven't
made much yet, still practicing all the keen stitches!  Believe me, a gift of
this magnitude is *HIGHLY* unusual, things just worked out right for some people
I know, who in turn, shared their bounty with me.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 12:09:32 1999
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/28/99 10:12:36 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
ladybriony@yahoo.com writes:

<< Janet Arnold Corsets and Crinolines?  I thought Norah
 Waugh wrote Corsets and Crinolines?  Wasn't Janet
 Arnold's 19th Century book Patterns of Fashion I?
 I have the Folkwear pattern too, so I was following
 this thread, and now I'm *totally* confused. Can you
 tell this isn't my primary era of interest?
  >>
 Oops, you're right.  Early morning brain malfunction
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 12:40:37 1999
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

I just received my first order from G Street Fabrics.  Awesome stuff.
I am very pleased.  It is exactly what they advertised.
http://gstreetfabrics.com/  I purchased the linen/cotton brocade.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 12:41:46 1999
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From: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>
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Subject: Re: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
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-Poster: "Kyna Grannd" <kynagrannd@granndgarb.com>

Yippee...I got the digital camera I've been dying for!! A copy of
Shakespeare In Love (finally) and an estimate for catalog printing that
finally fits my budget :D

All in all....a good Christmas.

Suz

AKA ~Kyna Grannd
Grannd Garb
Historic Clothing Supplies and Accessories
http://GranndGarb.com
info@granndgarb.com
ICQ#12859312
AIM  kynagrannd or granndgarb

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 12:54:52 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Well, I didn't get any to-die-for books, but my sister did send me a neat
little item. She had managaed, somehow, to get her hands on four cubes of
blue steel 'Toilet Pins' from Germany, finished with the finest glass heads.
All in mint condition, too. I am most pleased!


>  I received the Historic Fashions-Turning the Centuries 2000 calendar 
>  and the 17th-19th century notecard set.  Now I've no excuse not to 
>  make a mantua costume for a doll circa 1700 as January features stays 
>  and a petticoat. Embroidery is just too fabulous though--I'd like to 
>  copy it someday.

I wish you could have seen the doll display at the Doll Museum in Bellevue,
WA here not too long ago. They had a doll from the mantua era, with a full
kit. She had the quilted petticoat, several changes of overdress, a cloak
and the proper supports for the outfits. Just too cool! I managed to grab a
postcard depicting most of the items, which I might be able to get more of.
If people are interested, I can contact the museum and see about it.

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 11:18:51 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  Oh, yes, and a bright red satin bias cut nightgown, size 2X, that makes
me
>  look like what you'd expect to see if Santa had a floozy on the side.
>  
>  Margo

And folks thought *I* was bad for mentioning a parade of historical Santas!
Now we've got Santa's floozy to add to the bunch! Don't give my sick and
twisted mind any more ideas! ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
 The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 13:05:50 1999
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From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:27:46 +0000
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Subject: Re: H-COST: 1880'S bustle
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

The present day esthetic also wants to skim over the bustle.  I just 
got my copy of "Full-Color Victorian Fashions: 1870-1893" edited by 
Joanne Olian.  Missing are any illustrations from 1883-1886 and why 
that might be because plates from these years didn't survive, my 
guess is that we consider these years' women's fashions ugly.  Olian 
also points out in her forward to the book that the illustrated 
models are" seven feet tall with 10" waists" Olian also notes that it 
is a woman's world in these plates in which the women are always 
young and pretty with an equally pretty, perfectly-dressed and 
shining clean child as prop where necessary where the weather is 
always perfect( which explains why today's models have to be tall, 
very young, posed in perfect studios, runways or perfect weather in 
often exotic locals plus being practically or certainly anorexic to 
live up to the drawn fashion illustrations of the past.)

Actually the mid 1880's bustle and drapery  is so structured one 
couldn't tell if your butt was big or not.  And it would 
certainly keep away the modern males who would want to pinch it!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 13:14:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 20:37:13 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

I had the most wonderfull new lacepillow that i dreamt of covered with
purple velvet + 200 bobbins.
I have started a wide beautifull Chantilly lace with silkthread.

Happy newyear to everybody

Bjarne Drews in Copenhagen.

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 13:19:52 1999
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From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:42:04 +0000
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-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

Simplicity has three new patterns I purchased. One is a pseudo 15th 
century dress with very modern hennin and horned headdresses.  I got 
it because the oversleeves will be easy to modify for my Eleanor of 
Toledo RenFaire gown.  Another is a Retro dress with a kind of 
Regency high waist with short or long sleeves and a long vest which 
looks more Dolley Madison or Edwardian tea gownish.

The third is for 15 1/2 doll(Gene Marshall)fans. There are many 
costumes so there are all kinds of pieces to redraw and alter to real 
historic cut or use as is:  There is a blazer and slacks set, a 
1890's "medieval princess" gown and a 1920's style fringed dress and 
coat plus other outfits.

I think JoAnn's will be having a New Year's Day special for 
Simplicity patterns. There are other new patterns too
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 13:23:21 1999
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: Historical Costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: G Street Fabrics
In-Reply-To: <386909A0.1F3A9879@serv.net>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


Great!  That's good to know.  I just ordered some olive green wool/merino
herringbone fabric from them ($2.70 a yd!), and was hoping that it would
be  as nice as it appeared on the site.

Drea


 On Tue, 28 Dec 1999, Merouda the
True of Beaumaris wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> I just received my first order from G Street Fabrics.  Awesome stuff.
> I am very pleased.  It is exactly what they advertised.
> http://gstreetfabrics.com/  I purchased the linen/cotton brocade.
> 
> Cynthia
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 13:27:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 11:54:43 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

Can you please give pattern numbers?

Cindy Abel wrote:

> -Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
>
> Simplicity has three new patterns I purchased. One is a pseudo 15th
> century dress with very modern hennin and horned headdresses.  I got
> it because the oversleeves will be easy to modify for my Eleanor of
> Toledo RenFaire gown.  Another is a Retro dress with a kind of
> Regency high waist with short or long sleeves and a long vest which
> looks more Dolley Madison or Edwardian tea gownish.
>
> The third is for 15 1/2 doll(Gene Marshall)fans. There are many
> costumes so there are all kinds of pieces to redraw and alter to real
> historic cut or use as is:  There is a blazer and slacks set, a
> 1890's "medieval princess" gown and a 1920's style fringed dress and
> coat plus other outfits.
>
> I think JoAnn's will be having a New Year's Day special for
> Simplicity patterns. There are other new patterns too
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 13:35:22 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:58:26 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I got nothing to do with costuming... seven SF/Fantasy books, a
bookshelf stereo system for the bedroom, a silver tank & skimmer top
thing, and my requisite Star Trek calendars.  My dh & I did buy a
digital camera the day after Thanksgiving though... they had some for
sale at WalMart for just under $100... can take 15 high res pics and can
only delete the last pic (no random deletion) but it works.

Kat
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 13:47:37 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:16:29 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1880'S bustle
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Who would want to.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: 1880'S bustle
>Date: Tue, Dec 28, 1999, 5:27 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

>Actually the mid 1880's bustle and drapery  is so structured one 
>couldn't tell if your butt was big or not.  And it would 
>certainly keep away the modern males who would want to pinch it!
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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References: <v04011703b48e9b945176@[172.19.1.106]>
 <NDBBKIFGIKMKADKCBKIEGEFDCBAA.Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:17:21 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
>
>I received the Historic Fashions-Turning the Centuries 2000 calendar
>and the 17th-19th century notecard set.  Now I've no excuse not to
>make a mantua costume for a doll circa 1700 as January features stays
>and a petticoat. Embroidery is just too fabulous though--I'd like to
>copy it someday.
>
>Most of the fashions shown are, of course, late 1890's to early
>1900's.  Some feature the surviving dress plus a photograph of the
>original wearer in the gown.
>
Cindy,

Where did your giftee find the calendar?  I'd love to see it.  Would Barnes
and Noble have it, or a special bookstore?

Has anyone else seen it available outside a museum?

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 13:57:44 1999
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From: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: 1880'S bustle
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:25:28 -0800
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-Poster: "Bergdahl, Stephen" <BergdahlS@dhhs.co.sacramento.ca.us>


I am going to get hit for this....But  ME!! ME!!

Just Love those bustles!!!

Yours Stephen

"Oh well, the best laid plans of mice."
"And men."
"Men?  What have men got to do with it!"

Who would want to.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: 1880'S bustle
>Date: Tue, Dec 28, 1999, 5:27 AM
>

>
>-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

>Actually the mid 1880's bustle and drapery  is so structured one 
>couldn't tell if your butt was big or not.  And it would 
>certainly keep away the modern males who would want to pinch it!
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 14:01:40 1999
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From: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 15:22:43 -0500
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-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>

Exactly which of Piecework is it? Sometimes it takes awhile for the new ones
to get here and I'd rather not go out in the snow if they have the wrong one
at the book store.

Kassandra

-----Original Message-----


>It is a wonderful book. I had ordered my copy then 2 weeks later, my friend
>in England sent me the UK edition. Now I have 2 copies!!
>
>Kassandra NickKraken
>
>
I just got this month's Piecework Magazine last night.  They include an
excerpt from this book with lots of beautiful pictures in it.  AND reviews
of three books of needlework with Elizabethan style needlework designs.

LynnD

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 14:10:56 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 14:36:17 -0600 (EST)
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST:New Simplicity Patterns
In-Reply-To: <38691583.91E9603@serv.net>
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-Poster: ches@io.com

http://www.simplicity.com/859/9058.htm
http://www.simplicity.com/crafts_doll.html
http://www.simplicity.com/859/9045.htm

I think these are the once she is talking about.

Sincerely,
F. Havas
ches@io.com

On Tue, 28 Dec 1999, Merouda the True of Beaumaris wrote:

> Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 11:54:43 -0800
> From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> Reply-To: h-costume@indra.com
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST:New Simplicity Patterns
> 
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> Can you please give pattern numbers?
> 
> Cindy Abel wrote:


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 14:24:12 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: OT: Panther Primitives?
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:49:09 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

I know this is off topic, but it's the best place I have to ask at the
moment.  Does anyone have an address or a website for Panther Primitives
(tentmakers)?  Please email me directly, if so.  

Thanks in advance.

MaggiRos
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 14:24:26 1999
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References: <v04011703b48e9b945176@[172.19.1.106]>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:51:09 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: "Connie Carroll" <Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
>
>Exactly which of Piecework is it? Sometimes it takes awhile for the new ones
>to get here and I'd rather not go out in the snow if they have the wrong one
>at the book store.
>
>Kassandra
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>
>>It is a wonderful book. I had ordered my copy then 2 weeks later, my friend
>>in England sent me the UK edition. Now I have 2 copies!!
>>
>>Kassandra NickKraken
>>
>>
>I just got this month's Piecework Magazine last night.  They include an
>excerpt from this book with lots of beautiful pictures in it.  AND reviews
>of three books of needlework with Elizabethan style needlework designs.
>
>LynnD
>

It's at home/I'm at work, so I'm guessing January.  I usually get my new
copy before they get to the stores.  Perhaps if you give it a few days...

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 14:27:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 15:52:24 EST
Subject: H-COST: patterns on sale
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

Hancock's Fabrics is also having a sale soon on patterns

Jan 1 only - McCall's patterns at 99cents limit 5

entire month of January
Simplicity at 1.99
Butterick at 1.99

Happy shopping in the New Year!
 _________________________________________________________________
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 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 14:32:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:59:04 -0800
From: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

http://renstore.com/Pavilions.shtml

MAGGIE SECARA wrote:

> -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
>
> I know this is off topic, but it's the best place I have to ask at the
> moment.  Does anyone have an address or a website for Panther Primitives
> (tentmakers)?  Please email me directly, if so.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> MaggiRos
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:02:58 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: OT: Panther Primitives?
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
>  
>  http://renstore.com/Pavilions.shtml

Thanks! I was wondering about such things as well. Now, if they do a decent
job of waterproofing, and if I can order one that's big enough, I'll have
the niftiest carport in town!

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
 The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 15:07:05 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: OT: Panther Primitives?
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:31:53 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

Thanks!  Now perhaps I can have a kitchen separate from my living quarters!

MaggiRos

> ----------
> From: 	Merouda the True of Beaumaris[SMTP:keltia@serv.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Tuesday, December 28, 1999 12:59 PM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	Re: H-COST: OT: Panther Primitives?
> 
> 
> -Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>
> 
> http://renstore.com/Pavilions.shtml
> 
> MAGGIE SECARA wrote:
> 
> > -Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
> >
> > I know this is off topic, but it's the best place I have to ask at the
> > moment.  Does anyone have an address or a website for Panther Primitives
> > (tentmakers)?  Please email me directly, if so.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > MaggiRos
> >  _________________________________________________________________
> >  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
> --
> Cynthia Long
> Merouda the True of Beaumaris
> Barony of Madrone
> Kingdom of AnTir
> 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 15:17:53 1999
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Message-ID: <00a301bf517c$5cbc44a0$703eaccf@e4c2n6>
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <v04011703b48e9b945176@[172.19.1.106]> <v04011707b48ed1e31499@[172.19.1.106]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 16:41:52 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I received a  porcelain Victorian Doll from my husband and two sons.  She
has a lovely bustle dress with a bouquet of silk roses on her skirt ruffle,
a parasol, and hat also adorned with silk roses.  A friend from Atlanta
surprised me with some cermanic Victorian Christmas ornaments that she made.

I sent out to several friends some computerized fashion plates that I placed
on a 8" X 11" oval shadowed paper.  At the bottom of the oval I placed their
name, Lady whatever the receiver's name was.  They were very pretty and
several people have framed them.  I did this instead of Christmas cards.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 15:31:34 1999
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From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <NDBBKIFGIKMKADKCBKIEMEGACBAA.Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 21:56:50 -0000
Organization: Editors/heritage matters
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

First of all I got really bad withdrawal symptoms being away from computers,
lists, mails etc. As my usual systems are all down there was no point in going
in to work just to stare at a computer screen.  ( heavy bribery of SuperBrat 2
allows me to access now via his computer - bought last year as a requirement
for his studies- used for a while to play Lara Croft -but not even switched on
for several months now - as said game has led to a greater interest in Laras
of the non electronic kind- which (according to his flatmate) are regularly
tested for rockclimbing/wolfkilling /steamswimming and other accomplishements
in a seemingly never ending rota)
Secondly I got my Christmas supplies delivered -ordered online of
course-however I failed to realise that there was a necessary mathematical
calculation to be made ie the relationship between the size of freezer
capacity and the amount of frozen goods ordered. A note from my landlord-
non-functional oven cannot be replaced til NewYear- and one from the council -
There will be no refuse collection for twenty days- interesting variations on
the same theme.
Thirdly I visitted an elderly relative in hospital and while spending four
hours watching him sleep managed to get a really virulent bug. As this
resulted in a total inability to cook or eat or even take an interest in
things festive; the problems of over supply paled somewhat. Christmas Dinner
was three Lemsips Extra Strength washed down with a Benelyn Extra Strength Non
Drowsy - ,a very nice little cough medecine for its year although perhaps a
little cheeky in its aftertaste.
 On the positive side -a trip to the sale at Monsoon resulted in the
acquisition of a pair of grey silk trousers in my size, which because of a
small ballpoint mark on the front were reduced from £125 to £5  --  all I need
now is a party invite.
Sorry this is very of topic but when ones life is off-topic - well.
this will soon be corrected;
A Happy New Year/Centrury/ Millennium to you all
Dave

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 15:33:24 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 16:58:13 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1880'S bustle
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-Poster: AliaClaire@aol.com

In a message dated 12/28/1999 2:31:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu writes:

<< 
 Actually the mid 1880's bustle and drapery  is so structured one 
 couldn't tell if your butt was big or not.  And it would 
 certainly keep away the modern males who would want to pinch it! >>

Hehe...this is slightly OT.

I don't think I ever threw in my Halloween costume when we were talking about 
them, but I borrowed  shirt that looked like a "peacock on acid" (it was 
metallic blue, purple, and black), black slacks, a black scarf in my hair 
covered with peacock feathers, and a tail made out of balloons. This had to 
be pretty heavy-duty to survive the parties I went to that weekend, and it 
did pretty well. The only annoying part was that guys kept grabbing my 
balloons.

-Alison Stacy
Ohio Wesleyan University
AliaClaire@aol.com
Acstacy@cc.owu.edu
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 15:43:30 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 14:07:52 +0000
From: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: OT: Panther Primitives?
To: h-costume@indra.com
Message-id: <3868C432.2BCBB6EE@pacbell.net>
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-Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>

Greetings,

MaggiRos asked:

>> Does anyone have an address or a website for Panther Primitives
>> (tentmakers)?  Please email me directly, if so.  

Merouda responded:

>  http://renstore.com/Pavilions.shtml

I just wanted to point out that the link provided is only one of many
merchants who sell Panther Primitives, not a direct link. You might want to
compare prices with other merchants to be certain you are getting the best
deal. There are many merchants easily found using a websearch.

Just a suggestion,

Dietmar


"Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
 over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 15:45:39 1999
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Message-ID: <002a01bf5180$971717c0$0200a8c0@pavilion>
From: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST:New Simplicity Patterns
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 17:12:09 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

Pattern numbers, please?????


quote on:
-Poster: "Cindy Abel" <Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu>

Simplicity has three new patterns I purchased. One is a pseudo 15th 
century dress with very modern hennin and horned headdresses.......


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 16:00:41 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991228201108.YVXT2968.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1880'S bustle
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 14:45:46 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

    Almost every woman would want to keep stray hands away!  In general,
unless by our significant other, we don't like having our rears pinched,
goosed, etc.

Michelle

>
> -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>
> Who would want to.
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com

> >Actually the mid 1880's bustle and drapery  is so structured one
> >couldn't tell if your butt was big or not.  And it would
> >certainly keep away the modern males who would want to pinch it!


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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 14:41:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
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-Poster: Jonna Hayden <jonna_hayden@yahoo.com>



-

A glorious book that can get you in serious trouble--I
received my copy as a gift, and then noticed the dias
cloth on the back cover (that canopy thing).  I'm
running my Kingdom's 12th Night this year, and we
decided to recreate that canopy--24' across, 12' deep,
3' long with gold fringe, black cloth painted with
gold and silver.  Be careful reading it--the strapwork
close ups are pretty inspiring too!!

Jonna Hayden
SCA Dame Fearga Kavanagh

> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> My wonderful, DH got me a great book for the
> holidays.  I recommend it to
> all of you with Elizabethan interests.  It shows
> many detailed colour
> photographs of 16th century textiles and needlework.
> 
> It is:
> 
> Levey, Santina M. "Elizabethan Treasures: The
> Hardwick Hall Textiles"
> First published in Great Britain in 1998 by Th
> National Trust Enterprises
> Ltd.  Distributed in North America by Harry N.
> Abrams, Inc., New York.
> ISBN 0-8109-6353-1
> Library of Congress # 98-70062
> 
> Cheers,
> Danielle
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to
> majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 16:17:04 1999
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From: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: OT: Panther Primitives?
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 14:42:01 -0800
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-Poster: MAGGIE SECARA <SECARAM@mainsaver.com>

The Renstore site is sending me the Panther catalog, not reselling the
pavilions, so I'm not too worried about paying extra.

Thanks, though, for the thought.

> ----------
> From: 	Dietmar[SMTP:dietmar@pacbell.net]
> Reply To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Sent: 	Tuesday, December 28, 1999 6:07 AM
> To: 	h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: 	H-COST: Re: OT: Panther Primitives?
> 
> 
> -Poster: Dietmar <dietmar@pacbell.net>
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> MaggiRos asked:
> 
> >> Does anyone have an address or a website for Panther Primitives
> >> (tentmakers)?  Please email me directly, if so.  
> 
> Merouda responded:
> 
> >  http://renstore.com/Pavilions.shtml
> 
> I just wanted to point out that the link provided is only one of many
> merchants who sell Panther Primitives, not a direct link. You might want
> to
> compare prices with other merchants to be certain you are getting the best
> deal. There are many merchants easily found using a websearch.
> 
> Just a suggestion,
> 
> Dietmar
> 
> 
> "Victory or Defeat rests in God's hands;
>  over Honor, we ourselves are Lord and Master."
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 18:22:02 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: National Geographic
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 19:44:47 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Just received my January 2000 issue of National Geographic.  There is an
interesting article in it called "The Enigma of Beauty".

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 18:52:19 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST:New Simplicity Patterns
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-Poster: DDunker@aol.com

In a message dated 12/28/99 11:47:21 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu writes:

<< 
 Simplicity has three new patterns I purchased. One is a pseudo 15th 
 century dress with very modern hennin and horned headdresses.  I got 
 it because the oversleeves will be easy to modify for my Eleanor of 
 Toledo RenFaire gown.  Another is a Retro dress with a kind of 
 Regency high waist with short or long sleeves and a long vest which 
 looks more Dolley Madison or Edwardian tea gownish.
  >>

Pattern number please?

Darla

     Darla
     A good sense of humor will get you through most problems in life.
     (unfortunately, mostly in retrospect)
 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 18:57:55 1999
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Subject: H-COST: Wolf Form Help, PLEASE!
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>

Help!

I recently purchased a Wolf brand tailor's mannequin through Ebay, with the
understanding that the seller would deliver it to Mailboxes Etc and I would
arrange shipping from there.  I called and spoke to a lovely lady at
Mailboxes and was quoted what I thought was a reasonable price to ship the
thing from Massechusetts to Calfornia.

Well, it turns out that the Mailboxes store that the mannequin was delivered
to is not the same as the one I spoke to before purchase, and the store
where my mannequin is wants almost $400 to ship it!

Part of the problem is that they're claiming that it's too big for UPS,
which it is, if it's fully assembled.  Don't these things break down,
though?  If I can get them to dismantle it into the body, supporting pole,
and base, it should fit UPS's limits.  Can anyone out there give me a
reasonably clear description of how to do this so that I can send it to them?

Failing that, does anyone have Wolf's phone number? The only one I can
locate seems to be some years out of date.  

Margo


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 19:06:45 1999
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From: Caroline <caroline@caronet.net>
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-Poster: Caroline <caroline@caronet.net>

Oh god, please no one flame me. I'm totally new here and I write this
with more than a litte intrepidation and a sincere hope that posts like
mine are not a complete annoyance to the more knowledgeable and dedicated
posters on this mailing list.

For Christmas, my husband bought me a copy of Alison Gernsheim's Victorian
and Edwardian Fashion: A Photographic Survey and I have begun the path to
pursuing a hobby in vintage costuming in earnest.

So, where do I begin? Any tips, advice, resources for the careful newbie?
Obviously, I've done some Web searching or I would not have landed on this
list, but I'm particularly interested in SF Bay Area practical resources
(such as where can I learn to expand my needle talents to more than
darning ripped seams and re-attaching buttons gone missing?).

My interests lie primarily in the Edwardian and Art Deco (1920s) periods,
with a fondness for the late Victorian dresses as well. 

Caroline
~~~"People do not deserve good writing, they are so pleased with bad."
--Ralph Waldo Emerson~~~


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 19:16:26 1999
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References: <0.975f3262.259aba93@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 17:42:52 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:New Simplicity Patterns
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: DDunker@aol.com
>
>Cindy.Abel@creighton.edu writes:
> >  Simplicity has three new patterns I purchased. One is a pseudo 15th
> > century dress with very modern hennin and horned headdresses.  I got
> > it because the oversleeves will be easy to modify for my Eleanor of
> > Toledo RenFaire gown.  Another is a Retro dress with a kind of
> > Regency high waist with short or long sleeves and a long vest which
> > looks more Dolley Madison or Edwardian tea gownish.
>
>Pattern number please?
>
>Darla

 From a previous post in this thread
http://www.simplicity.com/859/9058.htm
Number 9058 - A pseudo 15th C. dress and tacky tacky cone-head hennins.

http://www.simplicity.com/859/9045.htm
Number 9045 - A pseudo-Victorian Artistic Reform/Aesthetic Movement 
dress. This is labeled "Retro". It is earlier than the Edwardian 
period, which is early 20th c. This style is from the late 19th c., 
and associated with the Pre-Raphaelites and the Arts and Crafts 
Movement.

If you like the style, check out the Artistic Reform Teagowns from La 
Mode Bagatelle
http://www.lamodebagatelle.com
More expensive, but much nicer, more authentic, and more variations 
for your creativity.

Lilinah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 19:47:43 1999
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From: "Jones, D." <djones@protocare.com>
To: "'h-costume@indra.com'" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: sew
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 18:16:34 -0800
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-Poster: "Jones, D." <djones@protocare.com>

-Poster: Caroline <caroline@caronet.net>

Oh god, please no one flame me. I'm totally new here and I write this
with more than a litte intrepidation and a sincere hope that posts like
mine are not a complete annoyance to the more knowledgeable and dedicated
posters on this mailing list. <snipped>

Caroline, welcome!! We hope that over time you become much more comfortable
posting--both questions, and as your knowledge grows, answers. We look
forward to hearing from you.

Ride Forever!

D.
djones1@usa.net
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

A friend gave me a bag of real pearls and a bunch of silk threads. But my
favorite is that I  $$ toward buying enough of the $28/yd to-die-for
brocade for a dress.  I've been eyeing this stuff at the local Upholstery
Fabric Outlet and drooling for awhile. I haven't even decided what the
dress will be yet. Its a blood red and a gold in a big 15th-16th c floral
pattern. I'm thinking about doing one of those Italians that are similar to
houpelands and have big hanging sleeves. Arent some of those Italian Renn
dresses watteau-backed? This stuff would make a perfect burgundian, but
even some of the early 16th c German and Italians also use similar fabric.
Decisions, decisions! I think I'll have to buy it then stand in front of a
mirror for awhile before I finally decide.

Julie Adams



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 20:28:31 1999
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/28/99 6:36:00 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
caroline@caronet.net writes:

<< So, where do I begin? Any tips, advice, resources for the careful newbie?
 Obviously, I've done some Web searching or I would not have landed on this
 list, but I'm particularly interested in SF Bay Area practical resources
 (such as where can I learn to expand my needle talents to more than
 darning ripped seams and re-attaching buttons gone missing?). >>

Why not look into doing overhire for one of the local theatre companies or 
the Opera?
If you already know how to sew, you will be able to learn a lot about costume 
construction (which can be tailored more for authenticity, as opposed to 
theatrical construction, as you learn more about it).  You will probably get 
to work in a variety of periods, maybe even one of your favorites, or find 
new favorites.  Make friends with a good professional draper.  They travel 
with their own libraries and are incredibly skilled in authentic 
construction.  It's been 20 years, but the costume shop at ACT used to be 
incredible.  Cheryl Odom

If your feel that your sewing skills require sharpening, you can always 
volunteer, instead.  Believe me, no one will turn you away.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 21:15:44 1999
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Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 19:40:42 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Caroline wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Caroline <caroline@caronet.net>
> 
> Oh god, please no one flame me. I'm totally new here and I write this
> with more than a litte intrepidation and a sincere hope that posts like
> mine are not a complete annoyance to the more knowledgeable and dedicated
> posters on this mailing list.
> 
> For Christmas, my husband bought me a copy of Alison Gernsheim's Victorian
> and Edwardian Fashion: A Photographic Survey and I have begun the path to
> pursuing a hobby in vintage costuming in earnest.

Hi Caroline,

You might also want to subscribe to the Vintage list at this same server
- lots of dealers from your area hang out there and could probably give
you some tips.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Tue Dec 28 23:16:15 1999
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-Poster: Margo Anderson <margo@directcon.net>


>
>Why not look into doing overhire for one of the local theatre companies or 
>the Opera?

It's very unlikely that anyone without extensive experience could be hired
by any of the professional Bay Area shops.  for one thing, there are only a
few of them;  ACT, the Opera, Berkeley Rep and San Jose Civic Light Opera
are the only ones I can think of.  None of them employ more than a few dozen
people, and lots of those work in several different shops at different
seasons.  

ACT does have a good shop, but it's on the small size, with room for maybe
four cutters and a dozen stitchers, max.  The last time I spoke with the
shop manager he said they were down to a skeleton staff of three people who
were only doing alterations on existing costumes:  the company was
deliberately choosing productions that could either be rented or pulled.  

So, I don't think pro theater work is a realistic place to look to learn
costuming skills, at least in the SF Bay Area.

Margo anderson


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 05:42:35 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 13:01:56 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

I just wondered if any of you saw the "Romeo and Juliet" play they
sended this christmas from BBC prime?
It was gorgeous!!

Bjarne in Copenhagen

--


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 07:00:05 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:18:31 -0600
From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
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-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>

I think what R.L. meant was that a gentleman would never, ever pinch the
bottom of a woman with whom he did not have a very intimate relationship
and then only in appropriate situations (such as chasing one another
around in the privacy of their home).

Kat

Michelle wrote:
>
>     Almost every woman would want to keep stray hands away!  In
> general, unless by our significant other, we don't like having our
> rears pinched, goosed, etc.
> > -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
> >
> > Who would want to.
> > ~!~ R.L.Shep
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 07:37:58 1999
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-Poster: Lonkatcon@aol.com

I very very recently subscribed to the digest.  I am most interested in late 
Victorian, preferably Edwardian clothing.  I have thought of Renaissance 
clothing also, believe we do have a local SCA (?) chapter, but my heart is in 
the the Victorian/Edwardian. I  noted a reference to a Vintage list, can 
someone share that address?  I am very new to this type of costuming, too, 
and need all the help I can get!  It would be primarily for me and my other 
half, and we'd like to participate in social events too.  If you'd like, you 
can respond privately to Lonkatcon@aol.com. Thanks for all your help!
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 10:28:12 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:53:31 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>
Subject: Re: H-COST: sew
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-Poster: Lynn Downward <ldownward@chori.org>

>-Poster: Caroline <caroline@caronet.net>
>
>Oh god, please no one flame me. I'm totally new here and I write this
>with more than a litte intrepidation and a sincere hope that posts like
>mine are not a complete annoyance to the more knowledgeable and dedicated
>posters on this mailing list.
>
>For Christmas, my husband bought me a copy of Alison Gernsheim's Victorian
>and Edwardian Fashion: A Photographic Survey and I have begun the path to
>pursuing a hobby in vintage costuming in earnest.
>
>So, where do I begin? Any tips, advice, resources for the careful newbie?
>Obviously, I've done some Web searching or I would not have landed on this
>list, but I'm particularly interested in SF Bay Area practical resources
>(such as where can I learn to expand my needle talents to more than
>darning ripped seams and re-attaching buttons gone missing?).
>
>My interests lie primarily in the Edwardian and Art Deco (1920s) periods,
>with a fondness for the late Victorian dresses as well.
>
>Caroline
>~~~"People do not deserve good writing, they are so pleased with bad."
>--Ralph Waldo Emerson~~~
>
>
Welcome, Caroline!

A wonderful resource for many things historical and needlework in the Bay
Area is Lacis on Shattuck and Ashby in Berkeley.  The owner, Katie Kliot,
is one who could really help you date, repair and accessorize dresses from
Victorian through the 20's.  I have found her to be helpful and
enthusiastic - as long as she has the time to focus on your project.  She
has tours and business demands that get in the way of her love of lace and
historical dresses.

If you call and talk to her and ask for an appointment and explain your
particular project she usually can fit you in (I have found).  She was very
helpful several years ago when I brought her the 1911 day dress made of
lawn and Irish crochet that I wanted to be married in.  She helped me with
appropriate mending ideas and stain removal tips, even without an
appointment.  I walked in and she wasn't busy and I opened up the dress and
she came to me like a bee to honey.

I didn't have this venue at the time, and she was a godsend.

Welcome and people asking questions aren't an annoyance.  I learn every day
I'm on the list, even if it's to learn how little I know.

LynnD
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 11:14:22 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:31:32 -0800
From: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>
Organization: @Home Network
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Subject: Re: H-COST: sew
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991228170828.26238A-100000@ns.bilicki.net>
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-Poster: Russell Hedges <russellh@home.com>



Caroline wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Caroline <caroline@caronet.net>
> 
> Oh god, please no one flame me. I'm totally new here and I write this
> with more than a litte intrepidation and a sincere hope that posts like
> mine are not a complete annoyance to the more knowledgeable and dedicated
> posters on this mailing list.
> 

<snip>

Why would anyone flame a lady such as yourself?  Anyone with a sincere
and polite question will receive a sincere and polite response here. 
You are doing just fine! 

Welcome to the list.

Russell Hedges
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 11:41:00 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 10:11:21 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1880'S bustle
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

Absolutely!
Things may have loosened up in our society - but where's the mystery?  I
personally find a woman in Victorian or Edwardian dress far more sexy than
one in hot pants!  In any case neither women nor men are objects to be
*handled* without their permission.
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
>From: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>To: h-costume@indra.com
>Subject: Re: H-COST: 1880'S bustle
>Date: Wed, Dec 29, 1999, 5:18 AM
>

>
>-Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
>
>I think what R.L. meant was that a gentleman would never, ever pinch the
>bottom of a woman with whom he did not have a very intimate relationship
>and then only in appropriate situations (such as chasing one another
>around in the privacy of their home).
>
>Kat
>
>Michelle wrote:
>>
>>     Almost every woman would want to keep stray hands away!  In
>> general, unless by our significant other, we don't like having our
>> rears pinched, goosed, etc.
>> > -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
>> >
>> > Who would want to.
>> > ~!~ R.L.Shep
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 12:20:16 1999
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From: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <NDBBKIFGIKMKADKCBKIEMEGACBAA.Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 19:13:02 +0100
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-Poster: "Henk 't Jong - tScapreel" <scapreel@tip.nl>

Hi ye guys,

I'm back after a few weeks absence. Lovely to see everybody is still here
and received just what was coming to them. You lucky so-and-so's!

Over in the Netherlands we have Saint Nicholas (right, he's the forerummer
of Santa Claus and has been a very popular saint since the early 13th c,
especially in Amsterdam and our city of Dordrecht, who both have St Nicholas
churches) at the eve of december 6th, december 5 that is. We sing songs, eat
traditional stuff and give each other presents accompanied by rhymes and
sometimes funny wrappings, called 'surprises' (pronounced in the French
way).

This year, among others, Pauline gave me 5 meters of brown wool with a
breadth of 70 cm, yes one ell!!! How original can you get! I was delighted
and am going to make it into a very correct late 13th c lined surcotte.

Last friday, a very stormy one, I went to our local market, and one of the
cloth-stall-holders had his yearly sale. I bought the only piece of real
wool left; a wonderful darkgreen broadcloth as smooth as the real stuff. 2.8
meters by 1.50 meters for f 14,00 which is about $ 7.00. I was over the
moon. In another stall I bought 3 meters of lightbrown wool (not so 100 %
wool, but pretty good looking) for my younger son's new medieval mantle for
f 15,00. You can imagine I was pretty satisfied with my shopping that day
and immediately celebrated with a wonderful cup of coffee in our local
'brown cafe'.

Cheers,

Henk

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 12:25:04 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 10:47:30 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: H-COST: 1860's Fashion Book on E-Bay
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>

Hello!
I've just finished wandering around e-bay for a while (Danger! Danger!) and
found a book some of you might be interested in. It covers the middle 1860's
American women's fashions, and looks to be pretty thourough, if the
informational blurb is to be believed. It is at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=223426956

There are a couple of other books in the Antiques/Textiles section, but this
looked to be the most promising.

Happy bidding!

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com 
 The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 13:53:09 1999
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Message-ID: <007b01bf5239$a95819c0$7665accf@e4c2n6>
From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <18081737.946493250711.JavaMail.imail@patti.excite.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1860's Fashion Book on E-Bay
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 15:16:53 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

I have this book and know the author.  It is a good book to study the
costumes from.  The book is still in publication and can be purchased
through amazon.com .  Or if you are nice, follow the link to it from my
site, http://www.costumegallery.com/Book/1800.htm

Later... Penny


> Hello!
> I've just finished wandering around e-bay for a while (Danger! Danger!)
and
> found a book some of you might be interested in. It covers the middle
1860's
> American women's fashions, and looks to be pretty thourough, if the
> informational blurb is to be believed. It is at:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=223426956
>
> There are a couple of other books in the Antiques/Textiles section, but
this
> looked to be the most promising.
>
> Happy bidding!
>
> Kate
> ----
> StitchWitch
> Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the
boxing
> glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com
>  The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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Message-ID: <008201bf523f$9b2d0760$16e7fea9@gunsafes>
From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991228201108.YVXT2968.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]> <002501bf5185$48d852e0$a3dffea9@gunsafes> <386A0A27.39C0F8DA@home.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1880'S bustle
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 12:59:31 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

OH!  That is wonderful! Thank you for letting me see through your eyes, Kat.
    Sorry about that, Mr. Shep.  
(Sheesh! The ambiguities of the English language!)

Michelle

> 
> -Poster: Kat & Kent <kdyer@home.com>
> 
> I think what R.L. meant was that a gentleman would never, ever pinch the
> bottom of a woman with whom he did not have a very intimate relationship
> and then only in appropriate situations (such as chasing one another
> around in the privacy of their home).

> Michelle wrote:
> >
> >     Almost every woman would want to keep stray hands away!  In
> > general, unless by our significant other, we don't like having our
> > rears pinched, goosed, etc.
> > > -Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
> > >
> > > Who would want to.
> > > ~!~ R.L.Shep
>  

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 19:30:18 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 18:56:51 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: Re: H-COST: Wearing costume to work
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

><< > An aside, has anyone on this list actually worn historical costume
> > to work? And what was the reaction?

I've worn my complete 18th c. riding habit to work... on a slow day,
ususally between Christmas and New Year's, when few people are in at work.
My favorite combo, however, is wearing my stays (for the silhouette) under
an 18th c. man's shirt, then a vest over, and my riding habit jacket... and
blue jeans.  Hm, maybe tomorrow... (grin)

I've also been known to wear my 18th c. stays under a bulky sweater, when I
have a bad case of computer-back-cramp.  Helps straighten up my posture and
support my back.  Haven't had to do that for a while, tho, since I got a
more ergonomic chair.  Caveat -- _I_ can see the bustline of the corset,
which looks rather odd, but apparently nobody else noticed it, since I
mentioned to a co-worker that I was wearing it and she was rather
surprised.  Guess the sweater was bulky enough, or people just aren't very
observant.

I also have a few dresses based on Thora Sharptooth's Viking tunic pattern;
I wear them to work fairly regularly.  People compliment me on them all the
time.  The one I like best is made of black crushed velvet -- not
terriffically period, but very elegant and comfortable.

Mara



Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 19:39:29 1999
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From: lindo@Radix.Net
Subject: H-COST: Two Questions re Bradfield's Costumes in Detail
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-Poster: lindo@radix.net

I'm contemplating making a couple of things from Nancy Bradfield's _Costume
in Detail_, and have a couple of questions.

a) The blue damask stays on p. 7, top of the page: has anyone made these?
I'll be making the body of the stays with a heavier fabric, but want to
cover them with a nice blue linen.  Do you sew through all the layers of
fabric, or do you just sew through the 'heavy duty' fabric, then apply the
decorative fabric on top?  Does this corset have tape binding over the
edges, or not?  I can't tell from the drawing.  If so, does it go over the
decorative fabric, or does the decorative fabric go on top of the tape
binding?

b)  The woman's white quilted waistcoat on p. 23 -- Is this missing a
stomacher in the center, or does it simply lace together up the front?
Also, under what circumstances would a woman have worn such a garment --
under a riding habit jacket, I'm guessing?

Thanks,
Mara
Kevin + Mara Riley
Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 20:06:23 1999
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From: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: fashion turning the centuries calendar
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 21:29:43 -0500
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-Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>

someone asked:

"Where did your giftee find the [Historic Fashions-Turning the Centuries
2000] calendar?  I'd love to see it.  Would Barnes
and Noble have it, or a special bookstore?

Has anyone else seen it available outside a museum?"

it is available at
www.sallyqueenassociates.com

allison

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 20:12:39 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: "h-costume" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Drea's website
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 21:36:45 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Drea,

What is the URL for the home page of your Elizabethan website?

Later.. Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com 

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 20:39:37 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 22:04:10 EST
Subject: H-COST: what do I buy?
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-Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com

Many of my Christmas presents came in the form of gift certificates to Barnes 
& Noble and Borders ($140 total). The questions becomes - what do I buy?

My current interests are in Elizabethan, earlier Medieval, and 
turn-of-the-century Victorian. I am thinking about the following:

Period Costume for Stage and Screen Medieval-1500 and/or 1500-1800 and/or 
1800-1909, Jean Hunnisett

Edwardian Modiste and/or Voice of Fashion, Fran Grimble

Patterns for Theatrical Costumes, Katherine Holkeboer

Corsets and Crinolines, Norah Waugh

Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620, Janet Arnold

I am rather new to historic costuming, and having browsed Ms. Arnold's book, 
I am thinking it may be a bit beyond my abilities right now (someday....)

Are there any other "must-haves" that I'm missing in my deliberations? Can 
anyone suggest which would be the best of the bunch?

Thanks for your help and suggestions!

**********************
Rebecca Schmitt
So many books, so little time

"Hard work is the accumulation of the easy things you didn't do when you 
should have." 
                -Anonymous

schmitt100@aol.com
**********************
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 20:40:58 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 22:06:43 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1860's Fashion Book on E-Bay
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-Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>

That book is sold for $25.  Why are they selling it on E-bay?



Cordially,

Sue Shatto

Sue@VictorianMillinery.com
http://www.VictorianMillinery.com

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 20:45:58 1999
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Message-ID: <3869CAE8.52D0025D@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 00:48:40 -0800
From: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>
Organization: Red Dragon Enterprises
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-Poster: "David S. Mallinak" <matchlck@erols.com>

"Marsha J. Hamilton" wrote:

> I think the computer industry has accelerated the loosening of corporate
> expectations of appearance.  If you desperately need a hot-shot
> super-nerd programmer/webmaster/etc. and the person who can do the
> job wears a pony-tail or has a pierced nose or purple hair, as an
> employer, you get over it really quick if the person can walk out the
> door and be hired by your competitor that afternoon. The computer
> industry's early formation as a "garage" industry of younger
> people with little concern for corporate image (image and its accompanying
> restrictions almost killed IBM, remember?) has been a driving force.

Also what are peoples expectations.  I have let me hair grow long for
18th century 
reenacting.  But I still wear professional attire whem meeting
customers.  When I entered a conference room for a meeting, I overheard
one of people say to another that they were being taken serious because
they obivously sent a the expert to answere their concerns... 

David S Mallinak

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 21:09:06 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 19:35:25 -0800
From: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>
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-Poster: don and carolyn richardson <benrumson@worldnet.att.net>



Lonkatcon@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Lonkatcon@aol.com
> 
> I very very recently subscribed to the digest.  I am most interested in late
> Victorian, preferably Edwardian clothing.  I have thought of Renaissance
> clothing also, believe we do have a local SCA (?) chapter, but my heart is in
> the the Victorian/Edwardian. I  noted a reference to a Vintage list, can
> someone share that address?  I am very new to this type of costuming, too,
> and need all the help I can get!  It would be primarily for me and my other
> half, and we'd like to participate in social events too.  If you'd like, you
> can respond privately to Lonkatcon@aol.com. Thanks for all your help!

The Vintage list can be subscribed to by sending a subscription request
to "majordomo@indra.com" with "subscribe vintage" in the body.

Where do you live?  I might be able to connect you with  afew websites
for Victorian/Edwardian reenactors or balls.

Carolyn
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 21:18:37 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <3.0.3.32.19970114220643.00c8f340@intrepid.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1860's Fashion Book on E-Bay
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 22:42:43 -0500
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Gee, I have an autographed copy... I wonder how much it would bring????
ROTFL!!!

Penny


> -Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>
> That book is sold for $25.  Why are they selling it on E-bay?


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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 16:17:38 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Forwarded again H-COST: Re: Gems
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>


>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>This is what I was able to find on the Fire Mtn Gems website.  Looks as
>if the "new law" I thought I remembered was my mistake, but it does
>imply that misrepresentation is punishable by various laws.
>
>Disclosure Guidelines for Gem Materials
>http://store.yahoo.com/firemtn/gemenguid1.html
>
>We use the following symbols to designate natural, enhanced, synthetic
>and imitation (man-made) gemstones. All of the symbols used are those
>described by the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), of which we are
>members. It is the practice of Fire Mountain Gems to disclose all
>enhancements to the gems we sell (with the exception of normal cutting
>and polishing). We also disclose the method of enhancement, if known.
>This disclosure will appear both on the stone’s advertising and on the
>stone’s invoice.  For the benefit of your customer and your company, we
>strongly suggest that you follow these guidelines when you sell stones
>and jewelry.
>
>(ASBL) - Assembled Products made of multiple layers or combinations of
>manufactured and/or natural materials joined together. Example: opal
triplets.
>
>(B) - Bleaching The use of chemical agents to lighten or remove a
>gemstone’s color.
>
>(C) - Coating Surface enhancements to improve appearance, provide color
>or other special effects.
>
>(D) - Dyeing The introduction of coloring matter into a gemstone to give
>it new color, intensify present color or improve to color uniformity.
>
>(E) - Enhanced This indicates that this type of gemstone is routinely
>enhanced. Since many enhancements are difficult or impractical to prove
>definitively, the approach taken in our printed materials and invoices
>is to assume, unless otherwise indicated, that such enhancement has been
>done to the particular gemstone material being described. If the
>particular type of enhancement is known, that enhancement symbol will be
>stated, rather than the “E” symbol.
>
>(F) - Filling As a by-product of heat enhancement, the presence of
>solidified borax or similar colorless substances which are visible under
>properly illuminated 10x
>magnification.
>
>(G) - Gamma/Electron Irradiation The use of gamma and/or electron
>bombardment to alter a gemstone’s color, which may be followed by a
>heating process.
>
>(H) - Heating The use of heat to effect desired alteration of color,
>clarity and/or phenomena.
>
>(I) - Infilling The intentional filling of surface-breaking cavities or
>fractures usually with glass, plastic, opticon with hardeners and/or
>hardened foreign substances to improve durability, appearance and/or add
weight.
>
>(IMIT) - Imitation Man-made products, fabricated in such materials as
>glass, ceramic or plastic designed to imitate or resemble the
>appearance, but not duplicate the characteristic properties, of a
>natural gemstone.
>
>(L) - Lasering The use of lasers and chemicals to reach and alter
>inclusions in diamonds.
>
>(N) - Natural Stones which are not currently known to be enhanced.
>
>(O) - Oiling/Resin Infusion The intentional filling of surface-breaking
>cavities of a colorless oil, wax, natural resin or unhardened man-made
>material into fissured transparent/translucent gemstones to improve
appearance.
>
>(R) - Irridiation The use of neutrons, requiring an environmental safety
>release from the NRC, with the combination of any other bombardment
>and/or heat treatment to alter a gem’s color.
>
>(S) - Bonding (Stabilization) The use of a colorless bonding agent
>(commonly plastic) with a porous gemstone to give it durability and
>improve appearance.
>
>(Syn) - Synthetic These are man-made materials which have essentially
>the same optical, physical and chemical properties as a naturally
>occurring counterpart.
>
>(U) - Diffusion The use of chemicals in conjunction with high
>temperatures to produce color and/or asterism (star-like) inclusions.
>
>(W) - Waxing / Oiling The impregnation of a colorless wax, paraffin
>and/or oil in porous opaque gemstones to improve their appearance.
>
>Additional Notes: If you resell gems obtained from us, or any gems for
>that matter, it is your responsibility to provide all information
>pertinent to the enhancement of a gemstone at the time of sale. If a
>stone is man-made, it is also the seller’s responsibility to disclose
>that fact. This information is required by the Federal Trade Commission
(FTC).
>
>Failure to identify enhancement of natural gemstones, when present, is
>an unfair trade practice. Such information is required at each and all
>levels of jewelry commerce. Failure to inform buyers could subject
>violators to civil as well as administrative remedies. Anyone who is
>uncertain about these requirements may write the American Gem Trade
>Association, P.O. Box 420643, Dallas, TX 75342-0643
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 21:50:56 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 16:15:57 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
In-Reply-To: <v04011703b48e9b945176@[172.19.1.106]>
References: <NDBBKIFGIKMKADKCBKIEGEFDCBAA.Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
 <3.0.1.32.19991227183940.0098a610@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I just got this month's Piecework Magazine last night.  They include an
>excerpt from this book with lots of beautiful pictures in it.  AND reviews
>of three books of needlework with Elizabethan style needlework designs.

Oooo, please share the info on those needlework books please!

Cheers,
Danielle
 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 21:50:56 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 16:12:17 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Forwarded again H-COST: Re: Gems
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>


>-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
>
>This is what I was able to find on the Fire Mtn Gems website.  Looks as
>if the "new law" I thought I remembered was my mistake, but it does
>imply that misrepresentation is punishable by various laws.
>
>Disclosure Guidelines for Gem Materials
>http://store.yahoo.com/firemtn/gemenguid1.html
>
>We use the following symbols to designate natural, enhanced, synthetic
>and imitation (man-made) gemstones. All of the symbols used are those
>described by the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), of which we are
>members. It is the practice of Fire Mountain Gems to disclose all
>enhancements to the gems we sell (with the exception of normal cutting
>and polishing). We also disclose the method of enhancement, if known.
>This disclosure will appear both on the stone’s advertising and on the
>stone’s invoice.  For the benefit of your customer and your company, we
>strongly suggest that you follow these guidelines when you sell stones
>and jewelry.
>
>(ASBL) - Assembled Products made of multiple layers or combinations of
>manufactured and/or natural materials joined together. Example: opal
triplets.
>
>(B) - Bleaching The use of chemical agents to lighten or remove a
>gemstone’s color.
>
>(C) - Coating Surface enhancements to improve appearance, provide color
>or other special effects.
>
>(D) - Dyeing The introduction of coloring matter into a gemstone to give
>it new color, intensify present color or improve to color uniformity.
>
>(E) - Enhanced This indicates that this type of gemstone is routinely
>enhanced. Since many enhancements are difficult or impractical to prove
>definitively, the approach taken in our printed materials and invoices
>is to assume, unless otherwise indicated, that such enhancement has been
>done to the particular gemstone material being described. If the
>particular type of enhancement is known, that enhancement symbol will be
>stated, rather than the “E” symbol.
>
>(F) - Filling As a by-product of heat enhancement, the presence of
>solidified borax or similar colorless substances which are visible under
>properly illuminated 10x
>magnification.
>
>(G) - Gamma/Electron Irradiation The use of gamma and/or electron
>bombardment to alter a gemstone’s color, which may be followed by a
>heating process.
>
>(H) - Heating The use of heat to effect desired alteration of color,
>clarity and/or phenomena.
>
>(I) - Infilling The intentional filling of surface-breaking cavities or
>fractures usually with glass, plastic, opticon with hardeners and/or
>hardened foreign substances to improve durability, appearance and/or add
weight.
>
>(IMIT) - Imitation Man-made products, fabricated in such materials as
>glass, ceramic or plastic designed to imitate or resemble the
>appearance, but not duplicate the characteristic properties, of a
>natural gemstone.
>
>(L) - Lasering The use of lasers and chemicals to reach and alter
>inclusions in diamonds.
>
>(N) - Natural Stones which are not currently known to be enhanced.
>
>(O) - Oiling/Resin Infusion The intentional filling of surface-breaking
>cavities of a colorless oil, wax, natural resin or unhardened man-made
>material into fissured transparent/translucent gemstones to improve
appearance.
>
>(R) - Irridiation The use of neutrons, requiring an environmental safety
>release from the NRC, with the combination of any other bombardment
>and/or heat treatment to alter a gem’s color.
>
>(S) - Bonding (Stabilization) The use of a colorless bonding agent
>(commonly plastic) with a porous gemstone to give it durability and
>improve appearance.
>
>(Syn) - Synthetic These are man-made materials which have essentially
>the same optical, physical and chemical properties as a naturally
>occurring counterpart.
>
>(U) - Diffusion The use of chemicals in conjunction with high
>temperatures to produce color and/or asterism (star-like) inclusions.
>
>(W) - Waxing / Oiling The impregnation of a colorless wax, paraffin
>and/or oil in porous opaque gemstones to improve their appearance.
>
>Additional Notes: If you resell gems obtained from us, or any gems for
>that matter, it is your responsibility to provide all information
>pertinent to the enhancement of a gemstone at the time of sale. If a
>stone is man-made, it is also the seller’s responsibility to disclose
>that fact. This information is required by the Federal Trade Commission
(FTC).
>
>Failure to identify enhancement of natural gemstones, when present, is
>an unfair trade practice. Such information is required at each and all
>levels of jewelry commerce. Failure to inform buyers could subject
>violators to civil as well as administrative remedies. Anyone who is
>uncertain about these requirements may write the American Gem Trade
>Association, P.O. Box 420643, Dallas, TX 75342-0643
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 21:53:01 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 16:14:03 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Gem question
In-Reply-To: <00a201bf50f0$9213af80$cca8fea9@gunsafes>
References: <385E688E.7D5ACC47@thibault.org>
 <199912170409.UAA12423@apollo.directcon.net>
 <3.0.1.32.19991220071304.0090d590@mail.interlog.com>
 <4.2.2.19991221112014.00a2e2e0@pop.service.ohio-state.edu>
 <005a01bf4be6$ab11e060$af24fea9@gunsafes>
 <3.0.1.32.19991227173510.009e48a0@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>   Danielle,
>  My response was to a comment about garnets and another stone, I can't
>remember what.  It was the garnets that I was specifically wondering about.
>If you'd be kind enough to forward me to that list you were speaking of,
>I'll go look at it.
> Michelle

I've forwarded it again, I hope you don't mind Cynthia, I left your name &
everything on it.  However, as I said - I don't remember off hand much in
the way of treatments for garnets.

Cheers,
Danielle

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 21:53:02 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 16:19:54 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
In-Reply-To: <v04011703b48e9b945176@[172.19.1.106]>
References: <NDBBKIFGIKMKADKCBKIEGEFDCBAA.Connie.Bunny@worldnet.att.net>
 <3.0.1.32.19991227183940.0098a610@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>I just got this month's Piecework Magazine last night.  They include an
>excerpt from this book with lots of beautiful pictures in it.  AND reviews
>of three books of needlework with Elizabethan style needlework designs.

Oooo, please share the info on those needlework books please!

Cheers,
Danielle

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
 with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 23:24:28 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 21:50:39 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: RE: H-COST: What I got over the holidays...
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

ooh.... I got a teensy bit of money for Christmas, and immediately took
myself off to the local Value Village. What did I find, but a plum and
mandarin orange silk saree with thread of silver brocading all along the
bottom edge and for about the first third of it. For $12.99.
YAY!!!
I'm in the SCA, so I'm actually going to make a black tunic for under it
and wear it to INDOOR events :]
It's just absolutely gorgeous, if a little tarnished in spots.. oh well!
time to get out my flute polishing kit.

Kris
who didn't get anything else related to costuming 'cause the parents are
paying tuition instead.. :]

 _________________________________________________________________
 To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Wed Dec 29 23:47:33 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 22:15:36 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST:New Simplicity Patterns
In-Reply-To: <v04210108b48f15c105f1@[208.225.99.182]>
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-Poster: Kris <i.wonder@L7.net>

> From a previous post in this thread
>http://www.simplicity.com/859/9058.htm
>Number 9058 - A pseudo 15th C. dress and tacky tacky cone-head hennins.

This one is supposed to be one of those full-circle dealies like a
houppelande (sp?) with a low neck and tight belt and.... 'stomacher' isn't
it? (I say 'stomacher' because it DOES give support to the bust, but not
the stomach :] )

Does anyone have a better/more accurate pattern (web site or paper) that I
could use as a basis?

This one is a skirt (that doesn't look big enough :] I use TONNES more
fabric in my skirts) gathered onto a bodice.

*sigh*

Kris
who has a pic of the real thing on the desktop right now..

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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <385E688E.7D5ACC47@thibault.org><199912170409.UAA12423@apollo.directcon.net><3.0.1.32.19991220071304.0090d590@mail.interlog.com><4.2.2.19991221112014.00a2e2e0@pop.service.ohio-state.edu><005a01bf4be6$ab11e060$af24fea9@gunsafes><3.0.1.32.19991227173510.009e48a0@mail.interlog.com> <3.0.1.32.19991229161403.00a2b850@mail.interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Gem question
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 22:45:32 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>


Ok, I looked at the list again.  I still don't see it.  What do they
'specifically' do to garnets?  Someone mentioned that garnets were almost
unrecognizable without treatment. What treatment?
Michelle


>
> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>
> Greetings,
>
> >   Danielle,
> >  My response was to a comment about garnets and another stone, I can't
> >remember what.  It was the garnets that I was specifically wondering
about.
> >If you'd be kind enough to forward me to that list you were speaking of,
> >I'll go look at it.
> > Michelle
>
> I've forwarded it again, I hope you don't mind Cynthia, I left your name &
> everything on it.  However, as I said - I don't remember off hand much in
> the way of treatments for garnets.
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 05:14:39 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: fashion turning the centuries calendar
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-Poster: AnnBWass@aol.com

Also from Amazon.com.
Ann Wass
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 05:47:48 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 07:19:42 -0500
From: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
Organization: Virtue Ventures http://www.virtue.to
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-Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>

Ooh, Drea!  I'm jealous!

I looked for one, and couldn't find one for less than about a thousand,
US.  I don't know if I'm quite that committed, despite the
treasure-trove it's supposed to be.  Inter-library loan reports that the
U. of MD has a copy, but it's non-circulating.

Any opinions?

cv
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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Drea's website
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


It's http://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/


Drea

On Wed, 29 Dec 1999, Penny Ladnier wrote:

> 
> -Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
> 
> Drea,
> 
> What is the URL for the home page of your Elizabethan website?
> 
> Later.. Penny
> http://www.costumegallery.com 
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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From: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: New Acquisition--Strutt!
In-Reply-To: <386B4C85.AC6DEEA6@thibault.org>
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-Poster: aleed <aleed@dnaco.net>


I was lucky--the seller didn't know what they had. they sold the
two-volume set for $450.  Every other copy I've found was 1K+.

Drea

On Thu, 30 Dec 1999, Cynthia Virtue wrote:

> 
> -Poster: Cynthia Virtue <cvirtue@thibault.org>
> 
> Ooh, Drea!  I'm jealous!
> 
> I looked for one, and couldn't find one for less than about a thousand,
> US.  I don't know if I'm quite that committed, despite the
> treasure-trove it's supposed to be.  Inter-library loan reports that the
> U. of MD has a copy, but it's non-circulating.
> 
> Any opinions?
> 
> cv
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> 

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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 08:13:53 -0800 (PST)
From: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: 1860's Fashion Book on E-Bay
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-Poster: StitchWitch <stitchwitch@excite.com>


>  -Poster: Sue Shatto <Sue@VictorianMillinery.com>
>  
>  That book is sold for $25.  Why are they selling it on E-bay?

'Cause silly folks like me might bid on it! ;)

Kate
----
StitchWitch
Unseen in the background, Fate was quietly slipping the lead into the boxing
glove. - P.G. Wodehouse, 1930





_______________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: H-COST: changing attitudes
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-Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com

In a message dated 12/29/99 8:13:08 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
matchlck@erols.com writes:

<< Also what are peoples expectations.  I have let me hair grow long for
 18th century 
 reenacting.  But I still wear professional attire whem meeting
 customers.  When I entered a conference room for a meeting, I overheard
 one of people say to another that they were being taken serious because
 they obivously sent a the expert to answere their concerns... 
 
 David S Mallinak
 
  Is there nothing more gorgeous than a man in a business suit, sporting a 
pony tail?  Maybe it's what's left over of the hippie in me, but I'm glad we 
never completely returned to the "hair shorter than the collar" rule of the 
50's and early 60's.  Well, actually, a man in an 18th century "suit" 
sporting a pony tail wouldn't be bad either.  Speaking of 18th century:  I'm 
doing a production of "Our Country's Good" and would love to be able to find 
more research on the military uniforms (British Naval 1787 and Army 
Recruiting Officers, 1st half of the 18th Century)  Also, a Reverand (all in 
Black?)  Web pages or books.  RL Shep, do you have something?  Or anyone else?
Cheryl Odom
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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> Many of my Christmas presents came in the form of gift certificates to Barnes
> & Noble and Borders ($140 total). The questions becomes - what do I buy?
>
> Period Costume for Stage and Screen Medieval-1500 and/or 1500-1800 and/or
> 1800-1909, Jean Hunnisett

Really expensive books, $50 each in my neck of the woods.  Personally, I would go
to the library and look at them first.  Then decide if you want them.  These are
books that I wanted but I copied what I needed and left the rest.  Now that I
think of it, they might be good for you if you're just looking to get something
do able.  Again I save my money the really good and accurate books and photocopy
the rest.

> Edwardian Modiste and/or Voice of Fashion, Fran Grimble

Don't know, not my period.

> Patterns for Theatrical Costumes, Katherine Holkeboer

I wouldn't.  Again, I'd check it out from the library and photocopy what you need
and leave the rest.  A good book to get ideas from but I would save my money for
the good stuff.

> Corsets and Crinolines, Norah Waugh

Yes.

> Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620, Janet Arnold

Resounding yes!  You might not know much now but when you're done with this book,
you won't be able to say that any longer.  She is through, clear, and you will
learn to research from this book.

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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-Poster: Merouda the True of Beaumaris <keltia@serv.net>

> > From a previous post in this thread
> >http://www.simplicity.com/859/9058.htm
> >Number 9058 - A pseudo 15th C. dress and tacky tacky cone-head hennins.
>
> Does anyone have a better/more accurate pattern (web site or paper) that I
> could use as a basis?
> This one is a skirt (that doesn't look big enough :] I use TONNES more
> fabric in my skirts) gathered onto a bodice.

So add more fabric to the skirt.  That should be simple enough.  As a place to
start, I think the pattern is pretty good.  Naturally, I wouldn't use the
angel sleeves, and the black and tan version would get a lovely black velvet
or fur collar.  I'd probably raise the waist too and fill out the skirt, but
all in all these are very easy and simple alterations.  And if you were to get
this at Joann's at their Simplicity patterns for $0.99 sale, you just can't
lose!

Cynthia
--
Cynthia Long
Merouda the True of Beaumaris
Barony of Madrone
Kingdom of AnTir


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Subject: H-COST: Victorian Ball (was Another newbie to list)
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-Poster: JPMcTeer@aol.com

IWith Christmas shopping, I completely forgot to offer an invitation to the 
list for our local chapter of the Victorian Society in America.  The annual 
Twelfth Night Ball has been moved away from the millennium festivities down 
to January 15, Saturday, at the James J. Hill House in St. Paul Minnesota.  
"Period attire and accessories are always admired, but not required."  

The idea is to come as Victorians dressed for a fancy dress ball in "costume" 
from another era or as a Theme.  Actual antique clothing is not advised, 
since the dancing gets pretty active.  A reproduction Victorian ball gown 
with just a mask is also acceptable.  Even modern dress is fine as long as 
you have fun with the dancing - simple mask is highly recommended as well as 
dreaming up a "theme" in tune with the color of the outfit - a few fake 
flowers will easily turn you into "summer" for instance. (Can you tell I gave 
a lecture on "fancy dress" in November?)

Send reservations by January 10 to Jeannie Richgels, North Star VSA, 7843 
Hemingway Ave. S., Cottage Grove, Mn  55016.  Costs are $25 each for 
non-members or $35 for new member joining.

Tours will be available of the James J. Hill Mansion (run by MN Historical 
Society).   A buffet dinner with wine is served (this is an adult event) and 
live musicians play for dancing.  Doors open 6 pm with Grand March at 6:45.  
Dance instruction/ demonstration will be given for several of the dances.  
Singles will be able to join in since people switch partners for each dance.  
Silent auction and new feature called "Parlor Personalities" (this is a 
surprise to me too!)  Since the house is owned by the Historical Society, the 
ball is over by 10 pm.  (By the way, below 0 temps are traditional, snow 
optional).

The mansion is at 240 Summit Avenue in St. Paul near the cathedral.  Contact 
me if you have any questions.  Last year was my first ball and I enjoyed it 
immensely.  The chapter also hosted a ball in June for the national 
convention of the Victorian Society in America which was a big hit.

Joan McTeer
Minneapolis
JPMcTeer@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 10:59:17 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Schmitt100@aol.com wrote:
> 
> -Poster: Schmitt100@aol.com
> Lucky you I'd go for the janet Arnold and the Noragh Waugh the other 2 pattern books are theatrical rather than real and you you still have to make up the patterns yourself so you may as well get the best for the job

Dawn
> Many of my Christmas presents came in the form of gift certificates to Barnes
> & Noble and Borders ($140 total). The questions becomes - what do I buy?
> 
> My current interests are in Elizabethan, earlier Medieval, and
> turn-of-the-century Victorian. I am thinking about the following:
> 
> Period Costume for Stage and Screen Medieval-1500 and/or 1500-1800 and/or
> 1800-1909, Jean Hunnisett
> 
> Edwardian Modiste and/or Voice of Fashion, Fran Grimble
> 
> Patterns for Theatrical Costumes, Katherine Holkeboer
> 
> Corsets and Crinolines, Norah Waugh
> 
> Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620, Janet Arnold
> 
> I am rather new to historic costuming, and having browsed Ms. Arnold's book,
> I am thinking it may be a bit beyond my abilities right now (someday....)
> 
> Are there any other "must-haves" that I'm missing in my deliberations? Can
> anyone suggest which would be the best of the bunch?
> 
> Thanks for your help and suggestions!
> 
> **********************
> Rebecca Schmitt
> So many books, so little time
> 
> "Hard work is the accumulation of the easy things you didn't do when you
> should have."
>                 -Anonymous
> 
> schmitt100@aol.com
> **********************
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

lindo@Radix.Net wrote:
> 
> -Poster: lindo@radix.net
> 
> I'm contemplating making a couple of things from Nancy Bradfield's _Costume
> in Detail_, and have a couple of questions.
> 
I haven't made these specific stays but have made several of the same
period. You can do either but it is more usual for the stitching to be
hidden under the fancy fabric if you are covering them so that it
doesn't show. All stays during the 18thc are bound around all the edges
with tape, ribbon etc as it would be impossible to turn the tabs under
to neaten them and it would be too bulky. Make the binding fabric part
of your design
> a) The blue damask stays on p. 7, top of the page: has anyone made these?
> I'll be making the body of the stays with a heavier fabric, but want to
> cover them with a nice blue linen.  Do you sew through all the layers of
> fabric, or do you just sew through the 'heavy duty' fabric, then apply the
> decorative fabric on top?  Does this corset have tape binding over the
> edges, or not?  I can't tell from the drawing.  If so, does it go over the
> decorative fabric, or does the decorative fabric go on top of the tape
> binding?


 These are generally fastened with ribbons across and tied in nice big
bows. They are often called jumps and are worn both for warmth or for
wearing without stays when doing housework etc as they are lightly boned
on the seams They could be worn under anything for warmth rather than a
fashion item. I'm planning to make myself a pair of these for our
draughty outdoor events. There is a lovely pair in the book Revolution
in Fashion.
> b)  The woman's white quilted waistcoat on p. 23 -- Is this missing a
> stomacher in the center, or does it simply lace together up the front?
> Also, under what circumstances would a woman have worn such a garment --
> under a riding habit jacket, I'm guessing?
>

Dawn 
> Thanks,
> Mara
> Kevin + Mara Riley
> Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:33:39 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

I'm
> doing a production of "Our Country's Good" and would love to be able to find
> more research on the military uniforms (British Naval 1787 and Army
> Recruiting Officers, 1st half of the 18th Century)  Also, a Reverand (all in
> Black?)  Web pages or books.  

Your best bet is to look at the Osprey books of the period. Whilst some
of the drawings in Osprey are not strictly accurate being artistic
interpretations the ones in the relevant naval and infantry ones aren't
too bad. I don't have my copies here I'm afraid for exact titles as I
share my uniform library with my OH and he keeps the copies in his
workshop as he has more room. You can access the 18thc military webrings
from my site on the uniform page which may help with your search. I also
have a picture of a 1792 naval captains coat I made years ago which will
give you some idea of the shape of the coats as they don't change from
the 1770's until after the turn of the century when they become cut in
across the front.
You could also try and look at a copy of the Thin red Line by DSV & BK
Fosten which is one of my bibles and the History of Uniforms of the
British Army book 3 by Lawson although this is out of print 

I did a production of this about 10yrs ago when I was teaching at
Middlesex poly so will try and see if I've got anything lurking which
may help. I've moved around a bit since then so not promising but will
alos rack the old brain cells

dawn

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-Poster: MzScahlett@aol.com

Rebecca,

<< My current interests are in Elizabethan, earlier Medieval, and 
 turn-of-the-century Victorian. I am thinking about the following:>>
 
<< Period Costume for Stage and Screen Medieval-1500 and/or 1500-1800 and/or 
 1800-1909, Jean Hunnisett>>

I have both of these. They are pricey, but well worth it.  Hunnisett is a 
great place to start.
 
<<Edwardian Modiste and/or Voice of Fashion, Fran Grimble>>

Excellent resource for it's period.
 
<<Patterns for Theatrical Costumes, Katherine Holkeboer>>

This is primarily theatrical. The emphasis is on basic line, not accuracy. 
Has almost no historical value and only a few garb ideas for each era.  I 
have it, and I use the patterns because I'm in theater, but this is one I'd 
skip (unless you were a beginning costume designer for stage).
 
<< Corsets and Crinolines, Norah Waugh>>

Excellent, and a must have for any collection at some point, as is the 
Hunniset.
 
<< Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620, Janet Arnold>>

Eventually, as your skills increase you will want to have Janet Arnold on any 
period you and she both converge at.  Even if your skill level is not up to 
the re-creation of the extant gowns/garments she writes of, her books provide 
an enormous source of reference material and ideas just in the reading.  I've 
had them for a few years and am only now getting to the point where I feel I 
might tackle one as an actual project.   Simply one of the best books for 
Elizabethan on the market.  Think of it as a museum reference on your shelf.  
"What did the clothes really look like, oh yeah, here's a picture!"   (If you 
really want to drop serious cash, you might eventually pick up Q'E's Wardrobe 
Unlock'd, as well)
 
<< I am rather new to historic costuming, and having browsed Ms. Arnold's 
book, 
 I am thinking it may be a bit beyond my abilities right now (someday....)
 
 <<Are there any other "must-haves" that I'm missing in my deliberations? Can 
 anyone suggest which would be the best of the bunch?  >>

For Medieval there is a good pictorial source (paintings): 
"The Flowering of the Renaissance" by Steffi Roettgen - $125/ish

I don't have my list of books with me, so that's all I can come up with for 
now.

angela


+++++
Angela F. Lazear
Cabbage Rose Costumes 
Theatrical Costume & Clothing Design
"What fates impose, that men must needs abide; It boots not to resist both 
wind and tide."
King Henry VI, Part III, IV, iii - W. Shakespeare
QUICK-LINK:  http://come.to/costumes
FULL URL:  http://sj.znet.com/~thespian/angil/index.html



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 11:55:18 1999
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-Poster: Lyssa@mgram.com

Hi all,

Sorry to bother everyone, but my service dumped a number of my messages
over the Christmas holidays.  Can someone send me digests 902, 903, 904,
905, 906, 907 and 908?

Thanks!
Maggie Griggs

lyssa@mgram.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 13:44:43 1999
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-Poster: sustre@pixelations.com

Mara said:
>I also have a few dresses based on Thora Sharptooth's Viking tunic pattern;
>I wear them to work fairly regularly.  People compliment me on them all the
>time.  The one I like best is made of black crushed velvet -- not
>terriffically period, but very elegant and comfortable.

Where might one acquire this pattern? It sounds wonderful- I'm hoping to
make a Viking outfit sometime in the next year. Thanks!

-Amanda


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 15:57:13 1999
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Subject: H-COST: What I got for the holidays
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

What I got for the Holidays or a Christmas Fairy Story:
My SO - I am not sure these labels really work - came to visit for the week
of Christmas and we went downtown to see the lights, the WTO battleground,
etc.  
He suggested we go to Tiffany's and I am always up for a good giggle so we
did.  Then asked me what I really liked and I said that I thought the gold
bracelets were really hot.
So he whipped out a credit card and said *we'll take that* amid my protests.
 
The sales person asked how I wanted it wrapped and I said *don't bother I
just eat it here* and wore it home.
Dinner at Tiffany's!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 16:16:08 1999
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-Poster: Caroline <caroline@caronet.net>



> What I got for the Holidays or a Christmas Fairy Story:
> My SO - I am not sure these labels really work - came to visit for the week
> of Christmas and we went downtown to see the lights, the WTO battleground,
> etc.  
> He suggested we go to Tiffany's and I am always up for a good giggle so we
> did.  Then asked me what I really liked and I said that I thought the gold
> bracelets were really hot.
> So he whipped out a credit card and said *we'll take that* amid my protests.
>  
> The sales person asked how I wanted it wrapped and I said *don't bother I
> just eat it here* and wore it home.
> Dinner at Tiffany's!


Wow! I wish my SO (husband) was that creative! :)

Caroline

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 16:53:35 1999
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 00:15:57 +0100
From: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
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-Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>

 Dear all
For those lucky owners of "fashion in detail" the 17th. and 18th.
century i have a question.
Could you please explain the word "pastes" for me. I have looked in my
dictionary, and no answer there.
It is small spangels made of paste. What is this paste?
There is a close wiew of some embroidery details, and here the spangel
looks like glass.
Did they make spangels of coloured glass??'
I would be most gratious if someone could explain this to me!!!

Happy newyear everybody!

Bjarne in Copenhagen.


Leif Drews
 boulevard 5, 3 th
1635  København V

Bjarne Drews
 boulevard 5,3.th
1635 København V

tlf. 35 37 13 70

Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph

Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 17:03:08 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 23:50:57 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

leif drews wrote:
> 
> -Poster: leif drews <drewscph@post12.tele.dk>
> 
Paste then was the same as today i.e fake diamonds

Dawn
>  Dear all
> For those lucky owners of "fashion in detail" the 17th. and 18th.
> century i have a question.
> Could you please explain the word "pastes" for me. I have looked in my
> dictionary, and no answer there.
> It is small spangels made of paste. What is this paste?
> There is a close wiew of some embroidery details, and here the spangel
> looks like glass.
> Did they make spangels of coloured glass??'
> I would be most gratious if someone could explain this to me!!!
> 
> Happy newyear everybody!
> 
> Bjarne in Copenhagen.
> 
> Leif Drews
> Åboulevard 5, 3 th
> 1635  København V
> 
> Bjarne Drews
> Åboulevard 5,3.th
> 1635 København V
> 
> tlf. 35 37 13 70
> 
> Homepage: http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph
> 
> Homepage: http://members.tripod.com/~DeeDee_Revia/1index.html
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

-- 
 Ïà¡±á

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 17:06:02 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 15:32:28 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: fashion in detail.
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

Bjarne wrote:
>For those lucky owners of "fashion in detail" the 17th. and 18th.
>century i have a question.
>Could you please explain the word "pastes" for me. I have looked in my
>dictionary, and no answer there.
>It is small spangels made of paste. What is this paste?
>There is a close wiew of some embroidery details, and here the spangel
>looks like glass.
>Did they make spangels of coloured glass??'
>I would be most gratious if someone could explain this to me!!!

My dictionary says, among many definitions:

paste, n. 8. Jewelry. (a.) a brilliant, heavy glass, as strass, used 
for making imitation gems. (b.) an imitation gem of this material.

Then, since i didn't know exactly what "strass" was:
strass, n. a flint glass with a high lead content, used to imitate 
gemstones [from German, named after J. Strass(er), 18th -century 
German jeweler who invented it]

If it isn't clear, it means that "strass" is a form of "paste" but 
not all "paste" is "strass".

Hope this helps a little.

Lilinah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 17:08:51 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 15:35:38 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>
Subject: Re: H-COST: fashion in detail.
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-Poster: Lilinah biti-Anat <lilinah@grin.net>

>-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
>
>Paste then was the same as today i.e fake diamonds

While this is certainly true some of the time, if the paste is 
*colored*, it could be used to make other sorts of sparkly gem-like 
thingies.

Lilinah

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 17:15:54 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: What I got for the holidays
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:43:12 -0500
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-Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>

I got "Fashion in Detail" by Avril Hart........    I'm still drooling over
it.  I'm up to the section on pockets....... :)

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 17:30:34 1999
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To: Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>,
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From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: Opinions, please
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

I found a reference to the following work and wondered how it rates
compared to Birbari:
        Newton, Stella Mary.  The dress of the Venetians, 1495-1525 /
Stella Mary Newton.  Aldershot, England ; Brookfield, Vt., U.S.A. : Scolar
Press, c1988. Series title:  Pasold studies in textile history ; 7.  Lib.
of Congress style Call #:GT964.N48 1988
Many thanks in advance.  -- Gra/inne
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 17:33:15 1999
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From: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>
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-Poster: "Penny Ladnier" <penny.creative.outlets@erols.com>

Pastes were like rhinestones but came in colors.

Later... Penny
http://www.costumegallery.com 



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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 18:12:05 1999
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-Poster: Dianne Kristoff <vestido@mb.sympatico.ca>

I also received "Fashion in Detail."  I'm keeping plastic over each page to
catch the dribbles...

Megan McHugh wrote:

> -Poster: "Megan McHugh" <mmchugh@starpower.net>
>
> I got "Fashion in Detail" by Avril Hart........    I'm still drooling over
> it.  I'm up to the section on pockets....... :)
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 20:13:55 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: fashion turning the centuries calendar
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

In a message dated 12/29/99 9:34:44 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
athurman@cybergal.com writes:

<< 
 -Poster: "Allison Thurman" <athurman@cybergal.com>
 
 someone asked:
 
 "Where did your giftee find the [Historic Fashions-Turning the Centuries
 2000] calendar?  I'd love to see it.  Would Barnes
 and Noble have it, or a special bookstore?
 
 Has anyone else seen it available outside a museum?"
 
 it is available at
 www.sallyqueenassociates.com
  >>
Thanks, Allison for passing on the web page. Can you tell me what the 
original message was? And why so modest. I'll tell them you designed the web 
site.

Happy New Year,
Sally
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 20:19:53 1999
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To: h-costume@indra.com,
        Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) -Garb <SCA-GARB@LIST.UVM.EDU>
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: H-COST: My Question re: Newton's It Ren book
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

	Thank you for your help.  Sounds like one I need to have a good long
sit-down with. -- GiDI
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 20:30:41 1999
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Subject: H-COST: oops
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-Poster: SAQUEEN@aol.com

Oops.
Sorry for the personal note to Allison. And yes, she did a great job 
designing and putting up the web site for Calendar 2000, Historic Fashions 
Turning the Centuries. Thank you, Allison!

Happy New Year, All. Do it in style,
Sally

Calendar 2000: Historic Fashion Turning the Centuries
http://www.sallyqueenassociates.com
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 21:19:40 1999
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From: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 22:47:07 -0500
Subject: H-COST: dawn, the all-powerful
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-Poster: "Vandy Simpson" <vsimpson@hurontario.net>

This is absolutely crazy, and totally perplexing! I just got digest 
912, and the first message is from Dawn, and finishes up:

>Also, under what circumstances would a woman have worn such  >a garment -- >
>under a riding habit jacket, I'm guessing? >

>Dawn 
>> Thanks,
>> Mara
>> Kevin + Mara Riley
>> Home Page http://www.radix.net/~lindo
>>  
________________________________________________________
_________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

- -- 
 Ïà¡± ......

and pffft! that's it, no more digest. Am I the only one getting the 
digest these days? Or am I the only one whose digests are being 
eaten as they pass through the void? In which case it might not be 
that Dawn knows the words of power, but that I, unknowingly have 
offended her greatly in some way....

 And usually, if people have their mime thingie turned on, I just see 
endless chunks of gibberish and scroll through. This is a brand-new 
thing.

vandy, finding it hard to follow a thread!

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 21:38:01 1999
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Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 23:32:23 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: what do I buy?
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings

>Many of my Christmas presents came in the form of gift certificates to
Barnes 
>& Noble and Borders ($140 total). The questions becomes - what do I buy?

Exellent gift!

>My current interests are in Elizabethan, earlier Medieval, and 
>turn-of-the-century Victorian. I am thinking about the following:

>Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620, Janet Arnold
>
>I am rather new to historic costuming, and having browsed Ms. Arnold's book, 
>I am thinking it may be a bit beyond my abilities right now (someday....)

Even if you think it might be beyond you now (it's not as complicated as it
initially looks) any Janet Arnold is a definite must have!

Cheers,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 22:22:01 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 22:42:17 -0600
To: h-costume-digest@indra.com
From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>
Subject: H-COST: Re: Help request
In-Reply-To: <199912290340.UAA10745@net.indra.com>
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-Poster: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@radiks.net>

>- -Poster: Caroline <caroline@caronet.net>
>
>Oh god, please no one flame me. 
>So, where do I begin? Any tips, advice, resources for the careful newbie?
>Obviously, I've done some Web searching or I would not have landed on this
>list, but I'm particularly interested in SF Bay Area practical resources
>(such as where can I learn to expand my needle talents to more than
>darning ripped seams and re-attaching buttons gone missing?).
>
>My interests lie primarily in the Edwardian and Art Deco (1920s) periods,
>with a fondness for the late Victorian dresses as well. 

How about visiting the Greater Bay Area Costumer's Guild website?  I'm sure
they would welcome you.  Many of the member's of the guild are interested
in these periods, and the guild is fairly active, with events, meetings,
sewing circles, classes, etc.  The URL is:

http://www.toreadors.com/costume/

Good luck, and welcome!

Sandy

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 22:33:42 1999
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From: "Lenka Suchanek" <lenule@home.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: Standing collar-photo
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 20:55:43 -0800
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-Poster: "Lenka Suchanek" <lenule@home.com>

Several months ago, I asked for help with a construction of a standing
collar.
I finished the piece. It is currently exhibited at the Canadian Craft Museum
in Vancouver at the exhibition 'Festive Treasures: Silver 1999'.  My work
"Mysterious Lace" was inspired by the first laces of the Renaissance.  I
based the designs on patterns from a book Le Pompe (published in Venice in
1556).  All lace accessories: collar, bracelet, brooch, shoe bow & buttons,
are made in a technique of plaited bobbin lace in fine silver wire. For a
mask I used a very thin silver plated copper wire, and a mixture of various
lace techniques worked with bobbins on a form, instead of a traditional
pillow, in order to accommodate the three-dimensional shape.

To see the work "Mysterious Lace", please go to
 http://www.silverpinstudio.com

Lenka

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 22:51:12 1999
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 00:11:33 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Gem question
In-Reply-To: <002501bf5291$7906fd60$b375fea9@gunsafes>
References: <385E688E.7D5ACC47@thibault.org>
 <199912170409.UAA12423@apollo.directcon.net>
 <3.0.1.32.19991220071304.0090d590@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

I don't know who said garnets are almost unrecognisable without treatment.
It wasn't me.  As I said before, garnets are one of the few that I can't
think of any treaments for.  Which means they probably aren't usually
treated.  I've had a brief look at my notes and didn't see any for garnets.

Cheers,
Danielle

At 10:45  29/12/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
>
>
>Ok, I looked at the list again.  I still don't see it.  What do they
>'specifically' do to garnets?  Someone mentioned that garnets were almost
>unrecognizable without treatment. What treatment?
>Michelle
>
>
>>
>> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>>
>> Greetings,
>>
>> >   Danielle,
>> >  My response was to a comment about garnets and another stone, I can't
>> >remember what.  It was the garnets that I was specifically wondering
>about.
>> >If you'd be kind enough to forward me to that list you were speaking of,
>> >I'll go look at it.
>> > Michelle
>>
>> I've forwarded it again, I hope you don't mind Cynthia, I left your name &
>> everything on it.  However, as I said - I don't remember off hand much in
>> the way of treatments for garnets.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Danielle
>>
>>  _________________________________________________________________
>>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 22:51:13 1999
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 00:17:24 -0500
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: fashion in detail.
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-Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>

Greetings,

>For those lucky owners of "fashion in detail" the 17th. and 18th.
>century i have a question.  Could you please explain the word "pastes"
>for me. I have looked in my dictionary, and no answer there.
>It is small spangels made of paste. What is this paste?
>There is a close wiew of some embroidery details, and here the spangel
>looks like glass.  Did they make spangels of coloured glass??'
>I would be most gratious if someone could explain this to me!!!

Fascinating idea!  From a gemmology/jewellery point of view "jewels" made
of glass are referred to as paste - so there could be a connection.  

Just brainstorming,
Danielle

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Thu Dec 30 23:21:24 1999
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-Poster: Panmela@aol.com

One thing made of paste at the time were pearls.    

Pamela D.
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 00:13:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 00:44:04 -0600 (CST)
From: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Gem question
In-Reply-To: <3.0.1.32.19991231001133.009cb870@mail.interlog.com>
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-Poster: Emma Elizabeth Lehman <00217146@bigred.unl.edu>


> >Ok, I looked at the list again.  I still don't see it.  What do they
> >'specifically' do to garnets?  Someone mentioned that garnets were almost
> >unrecognizable without treatment. What treatment?
> >Michelle

I don't remember anybody saying this.  I do know that when we pulled
garnets (itty bitty ones) out of outcrops at field camp this summer, they
looked just like garnets.  Dark wine-red in color (some of them, others
were greenish) and everything.

Emma the geology major

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 01:04:05 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <385E688E.7D5ACC47@thibault.org><199912170409.UAA12423@apollo.directcon.net><3.0.1.32.19991220071304.0090d590@mail.interlog.com><4.2.2.19991221112014.00a2e2e0@pop.service.ohio-state.edu><005a01bf4be6$ab11e060$af24fea9@gunsafes><3.0.1.32.19991227173510.009e48a0@mail.interlog.com><3.0.1.32.19991229161403.00a2b850@mail.interlog.com> <3.0.1.32.19991231001133.009cb870@mail.interlog.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Re: Gem question
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 23:49:30 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

     Now I see why I was so confused. ;) I had always thought that garnets
looked like garnets in their natural state and when I read that they
weren't, it got my attention.
   Thank you for taking the time to look it all up for me.  I am sorry to
have been such a pain in the neck.

Michelle

>
> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
>
> Greetings,
>
> I don't know who said garnets are almost unrecognisable without treatment.
> It wasn't me.  As I said before, garnets are one of the few that I can't
> think of any treaments for.  Which means they probably aren't usually
> treated.  I've had a brief look at my notes and didn't see any for
garnets.
>
> Cheers,
> Danielle
>
> At 10:45  29/12/99 -0800, you wrote:
> >
> >-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
> >
> >
> >Ok, I looked at the list again.  I still don't see it.  What do they
> >'specifically' do to garnets?  Someone mentioned that garnets were almost
> >unrecognizable without treatment. What treatment?
> >Michelle
> >
> >
> >>
> >> -Poster: Danielle Nunn <dnunn@interlog.com>
> >>
> >> Greetings,
> >>
> >> >   Danielle,
> >> >  My response was to a comment about garnets and another stone, I
can't
> >> >remember what.  It was the garnets that I was specifically wondering
> >about.
> >> >If you'd be kind enough to forward me to that list you were speaking
of,
> >> >I'll go look at it.
> >> > Michelle
> >>
> >> I've forwarded it again, I hope you don't mind Cynthia, I left your
name &
> >> everything on it.  However, as I said - I don't remember off hand much
in
> >> the way of treatments for garnets.
> >>
> >> Cheers,
> >> Danielle
> >>
> >>  _________________________________________________________________
> >>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> >>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >>
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
> > with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
> >
> >
>
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 01:05:08 1999
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From: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <0.37043441.259d9d34@aol.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: fashion in detail.
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 23:50:43 -0800
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-Poster: "Michelle" <Mandrake@Celtic.com>

How was that done?

Michelle

> 
> -Poster: Panmela@aol.com
> 
> One thing made of paste at the time were pearls.    
> 
> Pamela D.


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 01:49:18 1999
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 02:12:45 -0600 (EST)
From: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>
To: h-costume@indra.com
Subject: Re: H-COST: dawn, the all-powerful
In-Reply-To: <199912310354.WAA06124@hurontario.net>
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-Poster: Robin Netherton <robin@shell.nightowl.net>


On Thu, 30 Dec 1999, Vandy Simpson wrote:

> This is absolutely crazy, and totally perplexing! I just got digest 
> 912, and the first message is from Dawn, and finishes up
...
> ÐÏà¡± ......
> 
> and pffft! that's it, no more digest.

My text-only newsreader shows a brief code at that point that includes a
control-Z. My system may be translating that differently from what Dawn is
sending, but there's definitely something being appended to at least some
of her posts. My guess is that some receiving systems interpret the code
in such a way as to end the post at that point. I've seen similar
noncompatibility problems before, though not this particular one. This is
why it's good netiquette to shut off all special doohickeys (like HTML)
when you're posting to a list.

--Robin, klunking along on an outdated system

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 01:49:19 1999
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From: "Caroline Pollock Bilicki" <caroline@caronet.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: changing attitudes
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 00:14:44 -0800
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-Poster: "Caroline Pollock Bilicki" <caroline@caronet.net>

I may be repeating something someone else noted in an earlier post, before I
subscribed to this list.

I think that the changing attitudes about dress & hairstyle have a lot to do
with the gradual "casualing" of America. I live & work in Silicon Valley and
part of the reason I became interested in vintage & costuming and the
old-fashioned is that no one ever seems to dress up anymore! No. California
is perhaps a little bit more casual than most other places but I haven't had
to dress up for my job since I was an intern at a five-star Asian hotel.
eans & a tee are acceptable wear for a cocktail party out here. It makes me
wonder where on Earth I'm going to find the opportunity to wear a circa 1905
lawn dress (and the justification for its expense). But, I suppose, in the
scheme of things, my wearing a cream linen lawn dress to work is no more
strange than our IT manager's neon-painted size 46 (for a 28-inch waist)
pants....


--Caroline

~~~"People do not deserve to have good writing, they are so pleased with
bad."
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson~~~



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-h-costume@indra.com [mailto:owner-h-costume@indra.com]On
> Behalf Of Cheryldee@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 1999 8:33 AM
> To: h-costume@indra.com
> Subject: Re: H-COST: changing attitudes
>
>
>
> -Poster: Cheryldee@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/29/99 8:13:08 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> matchlck@erols.com writes:
>
> << Also what are peoples expectations.  I have let me hair grow long for
>  18th century
>  reenacting.  But I still wear professional attire whem meeting
>  customers.  When I entered a conference room for a meeting, I overheard
>  one of people say to another that they were being taken serious because
>  they obivously sent a the expert to answere their concerns...
>
>  David S Mallinak
>
>   Is there nothing more gorgeous than a man in a business suit,
> sporting a
> pony tail?  Maybe it's what's left over of the hippie in me, but
> I'm glad we
> never completely returned to the "hair shorter than the collar"
> rule of the
> 50's and early 60's.  Well, actually, a man in an 18th century "suit"
> sporting a pony tail wouldn't be bad either.  Speaking of 18th
> century:  I'm
> doing a production of "Our Country's Good" and would love to be
> able to find
> more research on the military uniforms (British Naval 1787 and Army
> Recruiting Officers, 1st half of the 18th Century)  Also, a
> Reverand (all in
> Black?)  Web pages or books.  RL Shep, do you have something?  Or
> anyone else?
> Cheryl Odom
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME
>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 01:51:25 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 09:19:16 +0100
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Subject: H-COST: Fake Pearls
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>

Sorry I deleted the original question by mistake, but someone 
wanted to know how fake pearls were made in the 17th century.

Pearls were the most fashionable jewellery and the people became 
very skilled in making fake ones. Sometimes so skilled that 
prospective buyers were cheated. Pepys complains in his 'Diary' 
about that. Glass pearls were made in the desired size, which were 
empty inside. Then a paste was made out of mostly the silvery 
substance of fish scales, which was powedered and the mixed into a 
paste which was applied into the glass bead and moved around so 
that the entire inner walls of the bead were covered in the silvery fish 
scale mother of pearl shimmer. Voila. a fake pearl.

Happy New Millennium
Nicole
************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 05:37:16 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: Two Questions re Bradfield's Costumes in Detail
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 22:04:23 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Mara

I can't answer your first question, but having had a look at my copy of the
book, and the other pieces around the same time I would answer your second
question like this (IMHO):

I feel that the quilted jacket may be missing the stomacher - as it seems to
have no obvious closure points on the front that will make it join.

It was possibly worn like a curaco - and was worn over a skirt as a day
gown.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

>

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 05:37:46 1999
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From: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: RE: H-COST: fashion in detail.
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 22:05:24 +1100
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-Poster: "Megan McConnell" <madilayn@one.net.au>

Hi Bjarne - nice to see you on this list too!

Paste is a term used for costume jewellery - or fake gems.

Have a terrific Day

Megan

Visit my website:  http://hercountry.com/gentlearts/
ICQ #  57164109
Yahoo Messageing:  madilayn

> 
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 07:58:55 1999
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From: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Standing collar-photo
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 06:21:06 -0800
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-Poster: "Gia Gavino-Gattshall" <ggavino@serv.net>

Lenka,
You work is just *gorgeous*!  Do you plan on putting some close up pictures
of the lace collar online?  Or do you have some there, and I just didn't
find it?

>To see the work "Mysterious Lace", please go to
> http://www.silverpinstudio.com
>


Gia/Giacinta

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 08:07:56 1999
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Subject: Re: H-COST: dawn, the all-powerful
References: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991231020904.20554H-100000@shell.nightowl.net>
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

Sorry if people are having trouble. 
I don't have any html coding added to my emails as far as I know. I'm
also running an antiquated system and have done nothing recently to
change the way I send stuff although I get the squiggles myself on post
that comes in to me from this list but I delete it before it goes back
out. Perhaps it's something that h-cost adds. The digest isn't affected
on other lists I am on as far as I know. Perhaps you should try changing
to non digest for a while and see if it improves.

Dawn 
> On Thu, 30 Dec 1999, Vandy Simpson wrote:
> 
> > This is absolutely crazy, and totally perplexing! I just got digest
> > 912, and the first message is from Dawn, and finishes up
> ...
> > ÐÏà¡± ......
> >
> > and pffft! that's it, no more digest.
> 
> My text-only newsreader shows a brief code at that point that includes a
> control-Z. My system may be translating that differently from what Dawn is
> sending, but there's definitely something being appended to at least some
> of her posts. My guess is that some receiving systems interpret the code
> in such a way as to end the post at that point. I've seen similar
> noncompatibility problems before, though not this particular one. This is
> why it's good netiquette to shut off all special doohickeys (like HTML)
> when you're posting to a list.
> 
> --Robin, klunking along on an outdated system
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 08:12:28 1999
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 15:00:40 -0800
From: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>
Organization: ages of elegance (http://www.agesofelegance.co.uk)
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-Poster: Dawn <dawn.wood1@virgin.net>

stunning. what more can i say
> >To see the work "Mysterious Lace", please go to
> > http://www.silverpinstudio.com
> >
> 
> dawn
> 
>  _________________________________________________________________
>  To leave this mailing list, send mail to majordomo@indra.com
>  with the message UNSUBSCRIBE H-COSTUME

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 08:21:24 1999
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 09:46:34 EST
Subject: Re: H-COST: Fake Pearls
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: CONNECT@aol.com

In a message dated 12/31/1999 3:18:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
marquis@kipar.org writes:

<< Pearls were the most fashionable jewellery and the people became 
 very skilled in making fake ones. Sometimes so skilled that 
 prospective buyers were cheated. Pepys complains in his 'Diary' 
 about that. Glass pearls were made in the desired size, which were 
 empty inside. Then a paste was made out of mostly the silvery 
 substance of fish scales, which was powedered and the mixed into a 
 paste which was applied into the glass bead and moved around so 
 that the entire inner walls of the bead were covered in the silvery fish 
 scale mother of pearl shimmer. Voila. a fake pearl.
 
 Happy New Millennium
 Nicole >>


This is great to know! It's very helpful. What source did this info come from 
so that I may get a copy to use for documentation?

Yours gratefully,
Pattie Rayl
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 08:37:59 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 16:05:55 +0100
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Subject: Re: H-COST: Fake Pearls
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>


> -Poster: CONNECT@aol.com
> 
> In a message dated 12/31/1999 3:18:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
> marquis@kipar.org writes:
> 
> << Pearls were the most fashionable jewellery and the people became 
>  very skilled in making fake ones. Sometimes so skilled that 
>  prospective buyers were cheated. Pepys complains in his 'Diary' 
>  about that. Glass pearls were made in the desired size, which were 
>  empty inside. Then a paste was made out of mostly the silvery 
>  substance of fish scales, which was powedered and the mixed into a 
>  paste which was applied into the glass bead and moved around so 
>  that the entire inner walls of the bead were covered in the silvery fish 
>  scale mother of pearl shimmer. Voila. a fake pearl.
>  
>  Happy New Millennium
>  Nicole >>
> 
> 
> This is great to know! It's very helpful. What source did this info come from 
> so that I may get a copy to use for documentation?
> 
> Yours gratefully,
> Pattie Rayl

I'm afraid this will be a bit difficult probably. the source is the latest 
edition, in German, of the letters of Lieslotte von der Pfalz, La 
Palatine, Madame, Duchess d'Orleans which is a fantastic edition, 
because there are numerous descriptions and explanations and 
documentation at the end of every letter. 
But I am sure there will be the same info somewhere in an English 
language book *S*

Nicole - who crosses fingers you'll find it somewhere.
http://www.kipar.org/new_year.html
************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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Subject: H-COST: translation
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-Poster: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>


--------------1584E7768F583B74050847DB
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Help!  I'm trying to transcribe an old English dressmaking book and the
author has used a foreign phrase I don't recognize.  (Not too surprising
since the only other language I ever studied was Latin - and not much of
that)  She says:
"...the fault will be found in most cases to arise from an ill-cut
corset.  The mal-seant?  mal-scant? appearance of the female figure is
chiefly attributable to this cause."
The page has severe foxing and the print is badly faded, so I'm not sure
how the word is even spelled.  I've figured the 'mal' part, but what
could the rest be?
Melissa

--------------1584E7768F583B74050847DB
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Help!&nbsp; I'm trying to transcribe an old English dressmaking book and
the author has used a foreign phrase I don't recognize.&nbsp; (Not too
surprising since the only other language I ever studied was Latin - and
not much of that)&nbsp; She says:
<br>"...the fault will be found in most cases to arise from an ill-cut
corset.&nbsp; The <i>mal-seant?&nbsp; mal-scant? </i>appearance of the
female figure is chiefly attributable to this cause."
<br>The page has severe foxing and the print is badly faded, so I'm not
sure how the word is even spelled.&nbsp; I've figured the 'mal' part, but
what could the rest be?
<br>Melissa</html>

--------------1584E7768F583B74050847DB--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 17:23:48 1999
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 15:55:05 -0800
Subject: Re: H-COST: translation
From: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>
To: h-costume@indra.com
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-Poster: "R.L. Shep" <rlshep@home.com>

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--MS_Mac_OE_3029500505_218700_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Bascially it means a *bad sitting posture* in French.... and I presume that
it is the language used here.
Can you please tell me the name of the book and the author and if possible
the date?  I am always interested in obscure books on dressmaking as I am
looking into a history of them.
Thanks
~!~ R.L.Shep
http://www.rlshep.com

----------
From: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>
To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
Subject: H-COST: translation
Date: Fri, Dec 31, 1999, 2:58 PM


Help!  I'm trying to transcribe an old English dressmaking book and the
author has used a foreign phrase I don't recognize.  (Not too surprising
since the only other language I ever studied was Latin - and not much of
that)  She says: 
"...the fault will be found in most cases to arise from an ill-cut corset. 
The mal-seant?  mal-scant? appearance of the female figure is chiefly
attributable to this cause." 
The page has severe foxing and the print is badly faded, so I'm not sure how
the word is even spelled.  I've figured the 'mal' part, but what could the
rest be? 
Melissa 

--MS_Mac_OE_3029500505_218700_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: H-COST: translation</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>Bascially it means a *bad sitting posture* in French....=
 and I presume that it is the language used here.<BR>
Can you please tell me the name of the book and the author and if possible =
the date?  I am always interested in obscure books on dressmaking as I am lo=
oking into a history of them.<BR>
Thanks<BR>
~!~ R.L.Shep<BR>
http://www.rlshep.com<BR>
<BR>
----------<BR>
From: &quot;jmhr@alltel.net&quot; &lt;jmhr@alltel.net&gt;<BR>
To: &quot;h-costume@indra.com&quot; &lt;h-costume@indra.com&gt;<BR>
Subject: H-COST: translation<BR>
Date: Fri, Dec 31, 1999, 2:58 PM<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Help!  I'm trying to transcribe an old English dressmaking book and the aut=
hor has used a foreign phrase I don't recognize.  (Not too surprising since =
the only other language I ever studied was Latin - and not much of that)  Sh=
e says: <BR>
&quot;...the fault will be found in most cases to arise from an ill-cut cor=
set.  The </TT></FONT><I>mal-seant?  mal-scant? </I><FONT SIZE=3D"4"><TT>appea=
rance of the female figure is chiefly attributable to this cause.&quot; <BR>
The page has severe foxing and the print is badly faded, so I'm not sure ho=
w the word is even spelled.  I've figured the 'mal' part, but what could the=
 rest be? <BR>
Melissa <BR>
</TT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--MS_Mac_OE_3029500505_218700_MIME_Part--

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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 18:01:34 1999
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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 16:28:49 -0800
From: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>
Organization: Lavolta Press
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-Poster: Lavolta Press <lavolta@best.com>

Could the owner post the title & author publicly?  I'm curious too.

Fran

R.L. Shep wrote:

> Bascially it means a *bad sitting posture* in French.... and I presume
> that it is the language used here.
> Can you please tell me the name of the book and the author and if
> possible the date? I am always interested in obscure books on
> dressmaking as I am looking into a history of them.
> Thanks
> ~!~ R.L.Shep
> http://www.rlshep.com
>
> ----------
> From: "jmhr@alltel.net" <jmhr@alltel.net>
> To: "h-costume@indra.com" <h-costume@indra.com>
> Subject: H-COST: translation
> Date: Fri, Dec 31, 1999, 2:58 PM
>
>
> Help! I'm trying to transcribe an old English dressmaking book and the
> author has used a foreign phrase I don't recognize. (Not too
> surprising since the only other language I ever studied was Latin -
> and not much of that) She says:
> "...the fault will be found in most cases to arise from an ill-cut
> corset. The mal-seant? mal-scant? appearance of the female figure is
> chiefly attributable to this cause."
> The page has severe foxing and the print is badly faded, so I'm not
> sure how the word is even spelled. I've figured the 'mal' part, but
> what could the rest be?
> Melissa

--
---------------------------------------------
Visit our web pages!
Books on historic costume and vintage clothes
http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
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http://www.best.com/~lavolta/dance/index.htm


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Message-ID: <000701bf53f0$c75adb20$d6065cc3@herimats>
From: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
To: <h-costume@indra.com>
References: <19991231234927.VGNJ3520.mail.rdc1.wa.home.com@[24.9.58.36]> <386D4A41.DCE9F95F@best.com>
Subject: H-COST: Its here
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 00:40:17 -0000
Organization: Editors/heritage matters
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-Poster: "LDMundy" <dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>

Happy new Millennium from those of us in the 21st century to all those as yet
to welcome it.
I have just come inside - outdoors its like being in another world as all of
the citizens of Birmingham try to outdo one another with bigger and better
fireworks from their back yards; Everywhere is billowing white smoke and the
sky is sparkling in all directions while the ground rubbles. Absolutely
amazing.
(mustn't forget some of the naffest TV I have ever seen .- and all computer
systems working properly)
Back to my cider
Luv you all
Dave


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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 18:49:08 1999
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From: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>
Organization: L'Age d'Or
To: h-costume@indra.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 02:14:51 +0100
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-Poster: "Marquis de Kipar" <marquis@kipar.org>

Happy New Year from Germany!
*back to my champagne as a Marquis should*

*chuckle*

Nicole
************************
N. Kipar
Leader - L'Age d'Or & Kirke's Lambs
French and English Baroque
http://www.kipar.org/
*Vel Exuviae Triumphant*
*Triumphant Even In Adversity*
marquis@kipar.org
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From owner-h-costume@indra.com  Fri Dec 31 18:54:17 1999
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Date: Sun, 31 Dec 1989 17:15:05 -0800
To: h-costume@indra.com
From: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>
Subject: Re: H-COST: Its here
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-Poster: "Carol J. Bell Cannon" <cjcannon@greymists.com>

At 12:40 AM 01/01/2000 +0000, you wrote: Poster: "LDMundy"
<dave@wysewords.softnet.co.uk>
>Happy new Millennium from those of us in the 21st century to all those as yet
>to welcome it. ... <snip> ... Luv you all Dave
       Well, so far, friends from Australia, and Sweden, have reported no
glitches and a lot of joyous celebration of the incoming/newly arriven
Millennium, Dave.  I'm very glad to hear it.  I'll raise a toast to absent
friends later than most of you, as I live in California.  However, let me
wish you all that the new Millennium brings you all you've needed, some
things you've hoped for, and treats you altogether better than the
current/previous one!--Carol
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Subject: H-COST: Striped Italian Renaissance>
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-Poster: Julie Adams <savaskan@sd.znet.com>

I'm looking for documentation on vertical striped Italian Renn. gowns worn
by women c 1520-1540. The only one I have available in my library is that
orange and green Lucretia painting, but those stripes could be sewn. I have
plenty of documentation on hand for Spanish women, Italian and German men
in fairly narrow even stripes, but my personal library is not that
comprehensive in the Italian Renn department.  Any books or on-line sources
would be appreciated.  I'm helping a friend make a new gown I am pretty
sure we are fine with the fabric choice, but we'd like to double check.  I
know stripes aren't "common" for women's gowns, but I seem to remember
seeing some examples in period paintings.

Thanks,

Julie Adams


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