Eric Praetzel - SCA costuming

 Here are some books which I have found useful for costuming:

My coteharde. These are relatively simple and easy to make. The fun part is in counterchanging the pattern / color and having nice buttons, rich fabrics etc.
SCA garb
Costume pattern

Doublets
All of my doublets are made from 3 layers.

Here is my first attempt at a quick and dirty doublet. I reduced my 6 panel design to 4 panels, boned the front [with Ridgeline - yeck!]. Yes it is tied up the back. Note that I cut the neck wrong and had to sew in extra material. As with all doublets, some trim along the seams is a nice touch.
SCA garb SCA garb
Costume pattern Costume pattern

This is my first doublet; twice taken apparted and now I'm adding padded rolls on the shoulders. It was made with 6 panels.
The first picture has the pattern for the codpiece and the last one has the under-arm piece, collar and shoulder wing. I did not include the shoulder roll because I had to redo that, carving it to fit.
SCA garb
Costume pattern Costume pattern Costume pattern Costume pattern
Here is my latest doublet and panteloons. It is based upon the above pattern [doublet] but slit under the arms [and laced], with hooks up the front and a proper codpiece. I can tie sleeves into the arm-holes; but have not done that yet. The pantaloons are tied into the doublet and the front of the pantaloons is properly closed by the codpiece.
SCA garb

Here is an Italian Ginero [bad spelling on that]. It is basically a pull-over gown. The sleves are slit to reveal whatever wonderfull garb I'm wearing underneath. It is fully lined with a pleated skirt. ie heavy, hot and showy.
SCA garb

Basses

Here are pictures of my basses. They are uncomfortable. They achieve the stuffed look thru judicous stuffing and using a stiff feltish fabric on the inside. These are not lined and that terrible stiff inner fabric destroys my tights. Yes most of it is at a slight angle. Basically I sewed this by sewing thru all of the fabric at once; making up each tube and then sewing the tubes together. I am amazed that I didn't brake any sewing needles doing this. I like the look of these; but not the construction.
SCA Picture
"Basses" are like a skirt. They are made with lots of padding to give the skirt a full appearance without metal stays. This garmet was popular around 1510 and on into Henry 8th as both something worn over armor or worn as a fancy outfit. Basses are made from alternating strips of fabric (usually contrasting colors). The lower edge of the skirt is usually counter-changed (ie there is a boarder where the fabrics are changed again). This was usually worn with a shirt which was made of the same fabric and alternated in quarters. In some pictures I have seen the outfit has a short sleve with the counterchanged motif continued.

Construction Tips for Basses

  • I made my skirt 26" long. This is too long. 21" would be more like it. The fabric triangles in mine are 2" wide at the top and 5" at the bottom. This allows a 1/2" seam on both sides of the fabric. There are 40 individual strips all the way around making for a 40" waist and a lower edge that is about 10' in circumference after padding.
  • The outer brocade fabric can be nearly anything but should not be too flimsy
  • The lining should be a sturdy fabric. I used a synthetic stiffening material.
  • Between the 2 layers of fabric I put a double layer of quilting batting. This made the sewing difficult. Sewing must be done with the more flexable fabric down. A large needle (I used a #100/16) is necessary and I found that only one type of #16 worked in my case! Unless you have lots of experience sewing heavy fabrics; expect to break some needles.
  • I am thinking that the easier way would have been to sew in only a single layer of quilting batting. This would make the sewing much easier.
  • Finish the waist end of the skirt. Make sure to line/pad it well because the drawstring will dig into your hips. I simply wraped some fabric over the top and put a drawstring thru it. I had one side of the skirt partly open so that there was room to pull it on.
  • Sew on 1 or 2 reinforcing stays out of fabric.
  • Before you close the bottom of the basses, put some padding into each of the pleats. This took about 2.5 lb of padding in my case! Use cheap polyester padding, not the expensive quilting padding.
  • I don't know how to finish the bottom yet! I consider my basses to be a total hack.
    Patri ibn Cariadoc