Eric Praetzel - SCA costuming
Here are some books which I have found useful for costuming:
- Patterns of Fashion, Janet Arnold (Excellent Books!)
- Vecellio's Renaissance Costume Book
- European Costume, 4000 Years of Fashion - Doreen Yarwood
- Historic Costume 1490-1790 - Kelly & Schwabe (1968)
- Costumes thru the Ages - (1982)
- Fashion for Men - An Illustrated History (1985)
- 20,000 years of Fashion - pages 207, 203, 215, 208, 210, 211, 217
- Costume 1066-1966 - GT 730.p43 (1986)
- Costume and Fashion Vol III, The Tudors 1485-1547
- The Concise History of Costume & Fashion, James Laver (1969)
- Western European Costume, Brooke (1963)
- Costume of the Western World, Doreen Yarwood (1980)
My coteharde. These are relatively simple and easy to make. The fun part is in counterchanging
the pattern / color and having nice buttons, rich fabrics etc.
All of my doublets are made from 3 layers.
- 1) Outer brocade.
- 2) Inner stiffening brocade.
- 3) Irish linen lining that is hand sewn in. It has to be with that many layers!
Here is my first attempt at a quick and dirty doublet. I reduced my 6 panel design to 4 panels,
boned the front [with Ridgeline - yeck!]. Yes it is tied up the back.
Note that I cut the neck wrong and had to sew in extra material. As with all doublets, some trim along the seams is a nice touch.
This is my first doublet; twice taken apparted and now I'm adding padded rolls on the shoulders.
It was made with 6 panels.
The first picture has the pattern for the codpiece and
the last one has the under-arm piece, collar and shoulder wing. I did not
include the shoulder roll because I had to redo that, carving it to fit.
Here is my latest doublet and panteloons. It is based upon the above pattern [doublet]
but slit under the arms [and laced], with hooks up the front and a proper codpiece. I
can tie sleeves into the arm-holes; but have not done that yet. The pantaloons are tied
into the doublet and the front of the pantaloons is properly closed by the codpiece.
Here is an Italian Ginero [bad spelling on that]. It is basically a pull-over gown. The sleves are slit to reveal whatever wonderfull garb I'm wearing underneath. It is fully lined with a pleated
skirt. ie heavy, hot and showy.
Here are pictures of my basses. They are uncomfortable. They achieve the stuffed look thru judicous stuffing and using a stiff feltish fabric on the inside. These are not lined and that terrible
stiff inner fabric destroys my tights. Yes most of it is at a slight angle. Basically I sewed
this by sewing thru all of the fabric at once; making up each tube and then sewing the tubes
together. I am amazed that I didn't brake any sewing needles doing this. I like the look of
these; but not the construction.
"Basses" are like a skirt. They are made with lots of padding to give the
skirt a full appearance without metal stays. This garmet was popular around
1510 and on into Henry 8th as both something worn over armor or worn as a
fancy outfit. Basses are made from alternating strips of fabric (usually
contrasting colors). The lower edge of the skirt is usually counter-changed
(ie there is a boarder where the fabrics are changed again). This was usually
worn with a shirt which was made of the same fabric and alternated in quarters.
In some pictures I have seen the outfit has a short sleve with the
counterchanged motif continued.
Construction Tips for Basses
I made my skirt 26" long. This is too long. 21" would be more like it.
The fabric triangles in mine are 2" wide at the top and 5" at the bottom. This
allows a 1/2" seam on both sides of the fabric. There are 40 individual strips
all the way around making for a 40" waist and a lower edge that is about 10'
in circumference after padding.
The outer brocade fabric can be nearly anything but should not be too flimsy
The lining should be a sturdy fabric. I used a synthetic stiffening material.
Between the 2 layers of fabric I put a double layer of quilting batting. This made the sewing difficult. Sewing must be done with the more flexable fabric
down. A large needle (I used a #100/16) is necessary and I found that only
one type of #16 worked in my case! Unless you have lots of experience sewing
heavy fabrics; expect to break some needles.
I am thinking that the easier way would have been to sew in only a single
layer of quilting batting. This would make the sewing much easier.
Finish the waist end of the skirt. Make sure to line/pad it well because
the drawstring will dig into your hips. I simply wraped some fabric over the
top and put a drawstring thru it. I had one side of the skirt partly open so
that there was room to pull it on.
Sew on 1 or 2 reinforcing stays out of fabric.
Before you close the bottom of the basses, put some padding into each of
the pleats. This took about 2.5 lb of padding in my case! Use cheap
polyester padding, not the expensive quilting padding.
I don't know how to finish the bottom yet! I consider my basses to be a total hack.
Patri ibn Cariadoc